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1. About the company

Arvind Ltd.
Stay true Stay new
Arvind Limited (formerly Arvind Mills) is a textile manufacturer and the flagship company
of the Arvind Group. Its headquarters is in Naroda, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India. It has units
at Santej (near Kalol). Sanjaybhai Lalbhai is the Chairman & Managing Director of Arvind
& Lalbhai Group. Arvind is one of the oldest, most respected and US$ 1.7 billion
dollar conglomerates in India. The group has varied business interests, ranging from
textiles, retail and advanced materials, to environmental solutions and real estate.
Arvind started life as a spinning and weaving unit in 1931 and have grown over the years.
But one thing has remained constant : Change. Arvind started with a share capital of ₹
2,525,000 ($55,000) in the year 1931. With the aim of manufacturing the high-end superfine
fabrics Arvind Limited invested in very sophisticated technology. With 52,560 ring
spindles, 2552 doubling spindles and 1122 looms it was one of the few companies in those
days to start along with spinning and weaving facilities in addition tofull-fledged facilities
for dyeing, bleaching, finishing and mercerizing. The sales in the year1934, three years
after establishment were ₹45.76 lakh and profits were ₹ 2.82 lakh.
In the mid 1980‘s the textile industry faced another major crisis. With the power loom churning out
vast quantities of inexpensive fabric, many large composite mills lost their markets, and were on the
verge of closure. Yet that period saw Arvind at its highest level of profitability. At this point of time
Arvind‘s management coined a new word for it new strategy – Reno Vision. It simply meant a new
way of looking at issues, of seeing more than the obvious and that becamethe corporate philosophy.
The national focus paved way for international focus and Arvind‘s markets shifted from domestic to
global, a market that expected and accepted only quality goods. Cottons were the largest growing
segments. But where conventional wisdom pointed to popular priced segments, Reno vision pointed
to high quality premium niches. Thus in 1987-88 Arvind entered the export market for two sections:
Denim for leisure & fashion wear and high quality fabric for cotton shirting and trousers. By 1991
Arvind reached 1600 million meters of Denim per year and it was the third largest producer of Denim
in the world. It manufactures cotton shirting, denim, knits and bottom weights (Khakis) fabrics. It has
also recently ventured into technical textiles when it started Advanced Materials Division in 2011. It
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is India's largest denim manufacturer apart from being the world’s fourth-largest producer and
exporter of denim.
Arvind entered into exports of garments setting up Shirt factories in Bangalore in 2001.
This modest beginning has quickly grown to a capacity of around 4.50 Million Shirts per
annum and the list of customers includes Gap, Dockers, Next, Esprit,and many others.
Arvind's entry into Jeans/ Pants was delayed due to the tight quota situation in India. It
entered into Jeans Garment exports with its first Jeans factory ―The Arvind Overseas
(Mauritius) Ltd., Mauritius, to offer full Garment package to its customers in USA and
Europe. This factory which started in March 2002 was a good stepping stone/ pilot plant
and did programs with customers which included Express, Next, M&S, Lee Cooper,
Rocawear and others. With the world moving into a new Quota Free world, Arvind decided
to move the Garment factory to Bangalore, India in
September 2004, to offer its customers more flexibility and better cost effectiveness.
Company's current Jeans capacity is around 10 Million Pieces per annum.
Arvind has carved out an aggressive strategy to verticalize its current operations by setting
up world-scale garmenting facilities and offering a one-stop shop services, by offering
garment packages to its international and domestic customers. With Lee, Wrangler, Arrow
and Tommy Hilfiger and its own domestic brands of Flying Machine, Newport, Excalibur
and Ruf & Tuf.
Arvind is setting its vision of becoming the largest apparel brands company in India.
Arvind also runs a value retail chain, Megamart, which stocks company brands. Arvind
feature is that it enterprises are equipped with highly advanced equipment of a full cycle-
from painting the fiber to the finished product.
With the best of technology and business acumen, Arvind has become a true Indian
multinational, having chosen to invest strategically, where demand has been high and
quality requirement is being superlative. Arvind has set the pace for changing global
customer demands of textiles and has focused its attention on selected core products. Such
a focus has enabled the company to play a dominant role in the global textile arena.
2 pieces of apparel are sold by an Arvind managed brand, every second in India. Arvind
owns 22 global patents for environmental solutions, and is the largest fire protection fabric
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producer in the country. Arvind also managing 15 global apparel brands of the likes of
Tommy Hilfiger, US Polo, CK, GAP, Nautica, and Sephora.

1.1 Company History

1897 - a time when there was hardly any manufacturing activity in India, Lalbhai Dalpatbhai set up
his first mill, the Saraspur Manufacturing Company.
1931 - In response to Mahatma Gandhi’s call for Swadeshi during the struggle for Indian
Independence, the Lalbhai family founded Arvind Mills, creating a capacity to compete with the
world’s finest textile mills.
Arvind Mills Ltd was incorporated with share capital ₹165,000 ($2500) in Ahmedabad. The products
manufactured were dhoties, sarees, mulls, dorias, crepes, shirtings, coatings, printed lawns and voiles
cambrics, twills and gaberdine.
1935 - Arvind's butta voiles were being exported to Switzerland and United Kingdom (UK), thereby
realizing the full potential of the spirit behind Swadeshi.
1952 - After two decades of success in the textile industry, Arvind set up India’s first dye and chemical
plant, under the aegis of Atul Products Ltd, in order to reduce the nation’s dependence on imported
dyes, and chemicals.
1973 - The Narottam Lalbhai Research Centre was established, to further the Company’s technical
capabilities. The Centre was home to many path-breaking innovations in the years following its
establishment.
1980 - Flying Machine, India’s first denim apparel brand, was launched to meet the aspirations of the
emerging youth segment.
1985 – Reno vision, a new strategic plan for the Company, was introduced. It was to put Arvind and
India on the global map of denim manufacturing. Just as India, a protected economy, was opening up
to the world, Arvind had firmly shifted its focus on domestic to international markets.
1986 - Arvind’s and India’s first denim manufacturing plant was commissioned at Naroda Road,
Ahmedabad. Arvind was soon to emerge as a global leader in denim production.
1987 – By the end of 1987, Arvind also started manufacturing high-value cotton shirting.The
company took up a modernisation programme to triple the production of denim cloth and to produce
double yarn fabrics for exports. The new product groups identified were the indigo dyed blue denim,
high quality two-ply fabrics for exports, and products such as butta sarees, full voils and dhoties.
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1993 - Through tie-ups with V.F. Corporation (USA) and Cluett Peabody & Co. USA, for
manufacturing and marketing, Arvind was able to offer high quality global apparel brands like Lee
Jeans and Arrow Shirts to the Indian market.Arvind reached 100 million meters of denim per year,
becoming the fourth largest producer of denim in the world.
1992 – The company increased its production of denim cloth by 23,000 tonnes per day by
modernising the plant at Khatraj of Ankur Textiles.
1995 - To formalize its Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) efforts, Arvind launched the ‘Strategic
Help Alliance for Relief to Distressed Areas’ (SHARDA) Trust.
1996 - As a part of its CSR efforts, a unique Private-People-Public partnership was launched with
SHARDA Trust, the Ahmedabad Municipal Corporation and residents of the Sanjay Nagar slum
coming together to transform this into a model of urban planning and low-cost housing. The
foundation was laid for one of India’s most modern textile manufacturing units at Santej, near
Ahmedabad. Spread over 450 acres and an investment over Rs. 1,000 crores, the plant was designed
to produce high-value cotton shirting, bottoms and knitted fabric for international markets.
1998 - Santej shirting facility, with a capacity of 34 million metres, was commissioned this year. Over
the next 20 years, Santej became globally recognized as the benchmark for sustainable practices in
the textile industry. Also Arvind Mills emerged as the world's third largest manufacturer of denim.
2008 - To accurately reflect the multi-faceted nature of the organization, the name of the Company
was changed to Arvind Ltd. from Arvind Mills Ltd.
2010 - The Arvind Store was set up to house the best brands of Arvind under one roof. The store
offers not only the entire range of the Company’s fabrics and apparel but also the services of Studio
Arvind, the bespoke tailoring unit. There are currently over 180 Arvind Stores across India.
2011 - Beginning 2011, Arvind has brought in some of the biggest global fashion brands like Calvin
Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Gap, Ed Hardy, Hanes, Nautica and Elle to India. First Better Cotton
Initiative (BCI) bale produced from India, from the Arvind farm project in Akola. BCI seeks to grow
cotton responsibly by controlled application of water& use of approved fertilizers; thereby
dramatically reducing the footprint of cotton farming. Arvind became one of the largest
implementation partners of BCI in India.
2014 - Arvind scored a major win. Arvind Envisol, a subsidiary of the Company, which provides
waste water treatment solutions, got a global patent for its Polymeric Film Evaporation Technology
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(PFET). This revolutionary technology saves 80% energy cost for Envisol’s Zero Liquid Discharge
water treatment system.
2015 - Arvind partnered with USA-headquartered Invista, the owner of the Lycra fibre brand, to
manufacture stretch denim fabric in India. With the birth of Khadi Denim, the legacy of Swadeshi,
which had inspired the founding of Arvind, came full circle. Each single yard of Khadi Denim is
spun, dyed and woven by artisans carrying on centuries-old handloom traditions. It is perhaps the
most sustainable denim fabric ever made : no chemicals, no electricity, no high technology, no use of
depletable resources. Denim went smart as Arvind collaborated with the world’s largest internet giant
and the world’s most renowned denim brand to launch wearable denim technology and smart denim
jackets. Arvind also launched a 4 in 1 smart shirt in collaboration with Arrow.
2015 - Arvind launched Project Asmita to provide for sanitation needs in rural areas. It brought
together highly skilled professionals and technicians and tasked them with the challenge of coming
up with strategies to raise the standard of sanitation practices in rural India. The result was a low-cost
toilet that is a fusion of innovative modern and traditional materials that could be readied and installed
in just a day.
2016 - Arvind Fashion Brands tied up with Sachin Tendulkar to launch True Blue. Sachin personally
spent time with the design team to create a menswear label that embodied the spirit of the global
Indian, a 21st-century traditionalist equally at home in New Delhi and New York. Arvind launched
Nnnow.com, a one-stop shopping destination for trendsetters across the country.
2017 - Building on an 86 year legacy of craftsmanship, innovation and fashion leadership, Arvind
launches its own Ready-To-Wear brand.In November 2017, Arvind Ltd announces the proposed
demerger and public listing of its branded apparel (Arvind Fashions) and Engineering (Anup
Engineering) businesses.
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1.2 Company’s vision

They Believe
In people and their unlimited potential; in content and in focus on problem solving; in
teams for effective performance, in the power of the intellect.
They Endeavour
To select, train and coach people to obtain higher responsibilities; to nurture talent, and to
build leaders for the corporations of tomorrow; to reward, celebrate and activate all
intellectual business contributions.
They Dream
Of excellence in all endeavors; of mutual benefit and prosperity; of making the world a
better place to live in.

1.3 Board of Directors

Sanjay S. Lalbhai Jayesh Shah
Chairman and MD, Arvind Ltd Whole-time Director and CFO, Arvind Ltd

Punit Lalbhai Samir Mehta

Executive Director, Arvind Ltd Independent Director

Kulin Lalbhai Nilesh Shah

Executive Director, Arvind Ltd Independent Director

Renuka Ramnath Dr. Bakul H. Dholakia

Independent Director Independent Director

Dileep Choksi Arpit K. Patel

Independent Director Independent Director
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1.4 Executive Leaders

1.4.1 Corporate
Jayesh shah Anang Lalbhai
Director & CFO MD – Arvind Products

1.4.2 Lifestyle Fabrics

Aamir Akhtar Susheel Kaul

CEO, Lifestyle Fabrics – Denims CEO, Knits & Woven Fabrics

PD Chavda
President, Voiles

1.4.3 Lifestyle Apparel

Ashish Kumar
CEO Lifestyle Apparel – Jeans & Shirts

1.4.4 Brands & Retail

J.Suresh
Managing Director – Brands and Retail

Bussinesses of Arvind
 Fabric and Apparel
 Brands and Retail
 Real Estate
 Engineering
 Internet
 Advanced Material
 Environmental Solutions
 Telecom
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2. Organisation structure and departments,Arvind Santej

Arvind

Naroda Santej

HR Design & Manufacturing Marketing Packaging

Department Development
Woven Knits Advanced
material
devision
Shirting Bottom Casual
(Indigo)

Fig.2.1 Organisation structure chart of Arvind

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2.1 Divisons

2.1.1 Woven Fabrics

Arvind produce about 130 million meters of woven fabric annually. Arvind’s expertise lies
in handling versatility, complexity, a vast spectrum of colours, excellence in craftsmanship,
cutting edge technology, innovative concepts and the best finishes in the world. The
company also have a separate mini-mill that builds shorter yardages to give customers a
choice.

 Shirtings and Bottoms

Arvind‘s expertise in new age shirting fabric and bottom weights is unparalleled. Their
shirting fabrics have consistently fetched a premium in the local and international markets.
Prominent products within shirting category include fabrics with non-iron properties,
mechanical finishes, printed fabrics apart from the cotton and cotton blends in Linen,
Lycra, Polyester, Modal, Silk etc. with varieties in yarn dyes and solids
Arvind is a reference point in Asia for finest bespoke formal, urban, smart shirts. Arvind’s
collection ranges from 2/170s to coarse counts, multi-fibre blends using fibres/yarns from
global partners like SUPIMA, Invista & Lenzing and performance finishes.

From trademark performance concepts such as Commuter 5-Pocket and Shrink-to-fit of

Levi’s to Banana Republic’s Rapid movement Chino that’s about technological
uniqueness, handling complex yarns and imparting varied functionalities and Monogram
Formal Suits, They are creating seasonal fashion to timeless classics in Jeanswear,
sportswear and Formal category for their brand partners.Arvind Innovation lab drives a
constant flow of inspiration and ideas that shape global Khakhi culture.

 Suits

They create international bespoke fashion offerings through globally sourced fabrics from
the best suppliers and being manufactured in their own factories. Arvind also have an
exclusively crafted range for the consumers in the form of TRESCA fabrics range. The top
of the line offering is made with the world's finest SUPIMA cotton and Egyptian Giza
cotton.
Primante - Premium worsted suiting brand a combination of Australian Merino wool and
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Italian design, sourced from Milan, Italy, and conceptualized by Arvind for the urbane and
affluent Indian customers.

2.1.2 Denims
Denim is one of Arvind’s heritage offerings. They have been the pioneers of the denim
revolution in India since the early 1980s. Their main four key pillars are – design,
innovation, sustainability, and customer centricity. Today, they power the most iconic
denim brands across Europe, US, and Asia.
Each year Arvind Denim produces over 100 million meters of fabrics and 6 million pairs
of jeans.The denim facility at Arvind is accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, EKOTEX
100, GOTS, and Organic exchange standard.Their labs are certified by NABL (ISO17025
certification) and have customers like customers like Levi‘s, Lee, and Wrangler etc.

2.1.3 Knits
Knits division of Arvind redefines comfort and performance in clothing. They are one of
the largest knit fabric manufacturers in India with a capacity of 12,000 T, and garmenting
capacity of ~20mn pieces per annum, growing exponentially. Arvind’s core expertise is
ready-to-wear, ethnic wear, and essentials across fabric and garments for men, women and
kids. Athleisure and performance sportswear fuel their growth.

2.1.4 Voile
The voile fabrics produced by their Ankur division are another offering rooted in
Arvind’s heritage. This fabric defines their origins in 1930s. This fabric has established
business relationships for them that transcend generations, with some of their customers
being in their 4th generation.

 The Ankur division produces a wide range of voiles that is highly sought-after by women
for ethnic ensembles as well as other applications such as sophisticated furnishings for
high-end interiors. Their mills weave and process over 50 million meters of fine voiles upto
140’s count each year.
 Their voiles are available in pure cotton, and blends such as polyester, modal and Lycra.
The soft-sheer fabric comes in a range of colours and patterns that is preferred for blouses
and dresses in ethnic and contemporary designs.
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 Arvind’s product brands such as Chakori, Tip-top, and Padmini are loved by women for
their elegance and comfort. With voiles, they reach out to more than 20,000 points of sale,
right into the heartlands of India, with a large portion of being the unorganised sector.
The fine Swiss-voiles are favoured by the customers for making Thobe in Middle East and
Europe for their uncompromising quality and fabric-feel. Lighter weight sheers are
preferred for drapery applications in high-end homes, offices, hotels and other interiors.

2.1.5 Advanced material division

Textile is a versatile structure and can be applied to more than just apparel. Catalysed by
over 100 years of textile experience, Arvind Advanced Materials is their endeavour to
branch out into other areas of material science which use textiles as a backbone. At
Advanced Materials, they believe that material science is going to be an important catalyst
in solving their country’s growth & development ambitions.They focus on new fibres, new
technology, and new products to solve the problems of infrastructure, healthcare, energy,
aviation, and industrial applications.

3. Corporate Social Responsibility

One of the fundamental values that are embedded into the very DNA of Arvind Limited is the belief
that only in a healthy society can healthy businesses flourish and to ensure this, businesses must
positively impact society.
The Founders were instrumental in setting up pioneering institutions for sustaining and improving
Educational, Social, Cultural and Religious conditions in Ahmedabad – the primary center of the
Company’s businesses.
Ahmedabad Education Society, Indian Institute of Management – Ahmedabad, Center for
Environmental Planning and Technology, H L College of Commerce and Lalbhai Dalpatbhai
Institute of Indology are examples of some of the institutions they set up.
Thus, Arvind has been supporting initiatives of educational, social and cultural renewal much before
the term ‘CSR’ – Corporate Social Responsibility – was coined.
Arvind’s CSR activities so far have been carried out through SHARDA Trust and NLRDF working
urban and rural settings respectively. Arvind Foundation – a recently set up section 8 company will
now lead company’s CSR initiatives.
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Arvind CSR

Empowering
Tribal women

Education

Health

Slum
rehabilitation

Fig.3.1 CSR areas of Arvind

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3.1 Empowering Tribal Women

Fig.3.2 Women working under CSR

( Source : https://www.arvind.com/fashioning-possibilities/innovation/empowering-a-nation-
by-empowering-its-women )

Arvind wanted to trigger the possibility of empowering a generation by empowering the

women. In the state of Gujarat where 15% population is tribal and has limited access to
resources, educating the tribal women could create a huge impact on the development of
the state and in turn the nation. Arvind fashioned this possibility by opening these women
to opportunities that they didn’t know existed, opportunities for self-reliance, growth, and
knowledge. They wanted to provide them with a platform that lets them explore their
potential, and embrace it.
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The CSR division created a pipeline training system, where young tribal girls received
education and skill training, an initiative that would help them get absorbed at Arvind or
get jobs outside. Through basic dexterity tests and interviews across Gujarat,

These girls were given vocational training, accommodation, transportation, learning

opportunities and paid employment. As they moved up the ladder within the Arvind textile
division, they were linked to Ambedkar University for pursuing an education that might
lead to even better opportunities in the future.

Arvind is now looking to recruit 50-60 tribal girls every two months.So far, about 400
young women have been enrolled in this programme.

3.2 Education

Gyanda is Arvind’s flagship educational programme under its Corporate Social

Responsibility initiatives.
Gyanda literally means ‘Fountain of Knowledge’ What the programme attempts to do is
to mentor children from the urban poor families, studying in municipal schools run by
Ahmedabad Municipal Corporation, and provide them with supplementary education. The
idea is to ensure that these children not only complete their education up to Class XII, but
go on to graduate.
At the heart of this programme is to equip these children to break the vicious circle of
povertyAhmedabad Municipal Corporation runs over 450 schools that provides free
education to over 1.3 Lacs students. Most students in these schools come from the urban
poor families livingin congested urban settings. Gyanda today supports about 1300
students. By 2020, it aims to extend the programme to cover 6,600 students; about 10% of
the upper primary students of Ahmedabad’s Municipal Schools. Initiated in 2006-7 the
Gyanda project has been in operation for ten years. The first batch of students who enrolled
for higher education is about to graduate.

3.3 Health

In India, healthcare is often beyond the reach of the poor. A fast-growing population,
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changing disease profile, multi-layered healthcare system, paucity of medical personnel

and awareness and inaccessibility of quality healthcare services at an affordable cost are
some of the challenges the underprivileged face today. Considering the lack of facilities
for credible, affordable and quality primary healthcare in Ahmedabad, Arvind Limited has
planned to establish Arvind Medical Centers in Association with Swasth India Foundation.
Swasth India Foundation is a social enterprise working to provide quality healthcare for all
and is Mumbai's largest non-governmental provider of primary healthcare and dental care.

3.5 Slum Rehabilitation

The story of the Sanjay Nagar slum and its residents showcases Arvind’s long-term
commitment to the betterment of the city of Ahmedabad and its people.
In 1996, as a CSR project, we envisioned the possibility of rehabilitating the slum
dwellers of Sanjay Nagar to safer, better built and comfortable houses. And once the
vision was in place, we made it happen, by co-creating these homes in a unique three-
way partnership between the people of Sanjay Nagar, the Ahmedabad Municipal
Corporation and Arvind.
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4. Shirting Division

Raw Material
Store Room

Spinning

Dyeing

Winding

Weaving
prepatory

Weaving

Quality
Assurance

Finishing

Packaging

Fig.4.1 Shirting processes flow chart

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4.1 Raw Material Store Room

The Raw Materials Department is the department from where the work starts in the plant.
The main objectives of raw material department are storing, issuing, and reconciliation of
raw material intended for manufacturing. (Raw Materials were placed in the storage Room
as per their sourcing places.)
4.1.1 System and procedure
Work takes place in the following systematic order:-
1. The orders are placed in the Marketing Department, at the Head Office stationed at
Arvind mills santej, Ahmedabad. The customer specifies its requirements in the order.
2. A sales order is then prepared giving a systematic description of the requirements by
the Marketing Department, which is then sent to the factory.
3. The Sales Order is received at the Production Planning and Commitment Department
(PPC).
4. The PPC Department then makes the production planning chart which includes all the
characteristics of the yarn required. The Production Program is then sent to the Raw
Materials Department.

4.1.2 Role of Raw material department

It receives the material, which is ordered by production department and issues the required
material to the department. In case of rejection, it stores the rejected material and returns it
to the seller end.
Types of cotton Arvind Mills use:
1. Pakistan Cotton
2. J34 SG
3. Shankar-6 Gujarat Cotton
4. Organic Cotton
Organic cotton is being produced in-house by arvind mills, and also being procured from
fully organic certified farms, as some environment conscious customers prefer to use it.
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Arvind’s organic cotton contract farming project is located in the cotton growing belt
district of Maharashtra; Akola.
4.1.3 Material purchase
In Raw Material, they source both long staple fibers and short staple fibers from Andra
Pradesh, Rajasthan, Punjab, Gujarat and imports from Pakistan. Certain prerequisites are
considered as to what kind of cotton fibers are required like Length, Strength, Fineness
(micronium per inch), Uniformity Ratio.

4.2 Spinning

Spinning is the first steps of textile product processing. The process of making yarns from
the textile fiber is called spinning. Spinning is the twisting together of drawn out strands
of fibers to form a yarn.

Fig.4.2 Spining department of a textile mill

( Source : http://www.esuppliersindia.com/r-g-spinning-mills-ltd-/cp-yarn-pr3877350-
sCATALOG-swf.html )
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4.2.1 Process
flow
Blow
Room

Carding

Pre draw
frame

Unilap

Comber

Post draw
frame

Speed
frame

Ring
frame

Assembly
winding

Two for
one turn

Singeing

Fig.4.3 Process flow of spinning department

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4.2.2 Blow Room

The Blow Room is the first stage or first process in spinning. The cotton arrives at the mill
in large bales. Raw fiber is always contaminated with trash and dust particles. The
compressed mass of raw fiber must be removed from the bales, blended, opened and
cleaned.

Blending is necessary to obtain uniformity of fiber quality; opening is necessary in order

to loosen hard lumps of fiber and disentangle them; cleaning is required to remove trash
such as dirt, leaves, burrs and any remaining seeds in order to prepare the fiber for spinning
into
yarn.
4.2.2.1 Process flow
1. Bales of cotton of various grades are moved from the warehouse to the bale opening
room.
2. Selected bales are opened and placed in position beside the breaking and opening
machine. This is actually a line of machines, working as a unit, that tear apart and
partially clean matted, compressed, and baled cotton. The result is small loose
bunches of cotton.
3. The cotton is then placed into the blending machine. This is a group of devices that
are synchronized to proportion definite amounts of various grades of cotton which
are to be blended together.
4. At this time, matted cotton and waste yarn salvaged from operations in the mill are
placed into the waste machine. This machine beats, pulls apart, and fluffs up waste
cotton to prepare it for re-use.
5. Cotton from both the blending machine and the waste machine is fed into the
breaker picker. In this unit the raw cotton is partially cleaned by beating and fluffing
and then fed into the finisher picker.
6. The finisher picker receives partially cleaned cotton in the form of lap from the
breaker picker and completes the cleaning and fluffing process. Lap is a general
term used to designate wide sheets of loosely matted cotton.

4.2.2.2 Blow room line

1. Blendomat (bale opener and cotton plucker)
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2. GBR(cotton opener)
3. AFC(Axi flow cleaner)
4. MPM(Multiplex mixer)
5. ASTA(heavy particle cleaner)
6. Dustex(Micro dust cleaner)

4.2.2.3 Purpose
 The basic purpose of blow room is to supply
 Small fibre tufts
 Clean fibre tufts
 Homogeneously blended tufts if more than one variety of fibre is used.

4.2.3 Carding
Carding is the second process in spinning. Carding is a mechanical process that
disentangles, cleans and inter-mixes fibers to produce a continuous web or sliver suitable
for subsequent processing. This is achieved by passing the fibers between differentially
moving surfaces covered with card clothing. It breaks up locks and unorganized clumps of
fibre and then aligns the individual fibers to be parallel with each other. The Sliver is
deposited in large cylindrical containers called CANS.

Carding

Carded yarn Combed yarn

Fig.4.4 carding
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Subsequent processing depends on whether better grade (combed) yarn, or lower

grade(carded) yarn is desired. For the lower grade, processig continues at the drawing
frame.
 For better grade yarn, the sliver is first processed by the sliver lapping
machine,which draws and combines several strands of sliver into a sheet of lap and
winds it on a spool ready for ribbon lapping or combing.

 The Lap is processed by a Ribbon Lapping Machine which draws and

combinesseveral rolls of Lap into one roll of ribbon lap, straightening the fibers
slightly and making the lap more uniform in weight and texture, ready for feeding
to a combing machine. Ribbon lap is a roll of closely matted cotton fibers, about 10
inches wide.

 Combing is the process of extracting fibers below a predetermined length and

removing any remaining dirt. Output of the combing machine is deposited in
CANS.

The cotton is next processed by the drawing frame. It is a machine in which severalstrands
of sliver are combined into one strand and drawn out so that the combinedstrands
approximate the weight and size of any one of the original strands. The term drawnout
means to stretch a strand of cotton, usually by running the strand between several pairs
ofrollers, each pair turning faster than the pair before it.
The slubbing machine then draws out strands of sliver and twists them together loosely in
order to give the strands (now called roving) sufficient strength to withstand subsequent
operations.
The rovingis processed by the fly frame. This machine progressively combines twostrands
of partially processed roving into one, draws out the combined strands until they areof
prescribed weight, and twists them loosely in order to give them sufficient strength to
withstand subsequent operations.
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4.2.4 Draw frame

Draw frame is a machine for combing and drawing slivers of a textile fiber Drawing is the
operation by which slivers are blended, doubled and levelled. Carded Slivers are fed into
the Draw-Frame and are stretched/ Straightened and made in to a single sliver.
Actions involved in Draw frame
Drafting – It is the process of increasing length per unit weight of sliver. It is mainly due
to the peripheral speed of the rollers.
Doubling – The process of combing two or more carded sliver into a single form is called
doubling. In draw frame, where the operation is one of doubling and drafting.
Drawing – In the cotton industry the term is applied exclusively to processing on the
draw frame, where the operation is one of doubling and drafting.
4.2.4.2 Functions of the draw frame
 Drafting
 Equalizing
 Parallelizing
 Blending
 Dust removal

4.2.5 Unilap
24-26 breaker slivers are combined to form a single lap sheet. A single roll of lap weighs
1 kg. Comber lap emerges out of this machine.

4.2.6 Comber

The laps are fed into the system where they are combed by the rollers with teeth. Short
fibres are pulled out. Finely smooth, parallel aligned slivers in which individual fibres can
be pulled out easily are produced after combing. 8 laps are combined to form 1 combined
sliver.
The combing process is normally used to produce smoother, finer, stronger and more
uniform yarns. Combing is commonly confined to high grade, long staple natural fibers.
 24

Recently combing has been utilized for upgrading the quality of medium staple fibers.
Ayarn made of combed cotton needs less twist than a carded yarn.
The combing system consists of two combs. The first one is a rotating bottom circular
comb that performs the main combing action. The second one is a linear top comb that
completes the function of the bottom comb through vertical combing movement. The
detaching rolls are two pairs of gripping rolls that rotate forward and backward in
intermittent fashion to hold and move the combed web for a net forward travel.
Functions of comber
 Elimination of precisely pre determined quantity of short fiber
 Elimination of the remaining impurities
 Elimination of large proportion of neps in the fiber material
 Formation of sliver having maximum possible evenness
 Producing more straight and parallel fibres

4.2.7 Post draw frame

6 combed slivers are further combined, parallelized and the sliverver quality is improved
by drawing. The mass/length is reduced. These are called finished sliver.

4.2.8 Speed Frame

The Speed frame is an intermediate machine between draw frame and ring frame the main
objective of this machine is to convert sliver into thinner sliver for the convenience of
subsequent processes. The sliver we obtain from draw frame is still thicker sliver which is
not good for yarn manufacture. So the sliver thickness or the yarn count is reduced by this
machine to the required level.
Objectives of speed frame
 Attenuation of draw sliver to a suitable size for spinning.
 To insert a small amount of twist to strengthen the roving.
 To wind the twisted strand roving into a bobbin.
 25

4.2.9 Ring frame

The ring frame machine is used in the textile industry to simultaneously twist staple fibres
into yarn and then wind it onto bobbins for storage. The yarn loop rotating rapidly about a
fixed axis generates a surface referred to as "balloon". Ring frame settings are chosen to
reduce yarn hairiness and the risk of glazing or melting the fibre. Yarns from the bobbin
are transferred to bigger packages called cone on simple cone winder/ Autoconer. Bobbins
placed in magazine are moved through channels and detected for loose ends. Those with
free end are transported further and attached to the loose end present in the cone continuing
the winding process. Then they are just spliced with each other thus avoiding knotting to
get better efficiency in weaving. The bobbins when empty are tracked back to be collected
by vacuum suction and dropped into a bin. Hence, the creation of large yarn packages that
can be easily unwound.
Three zones of winding
 Unwinding
 Tension and cleaning zone
 Winding zone
Objective
 To prepare the bigger package from ring bobbin.
 To remove spinning faults.
 To improve the quality of yarn.

4.2.10 Assembly winding

Here, 2 cones are used to double the yarn. There is no twist, but only parallel winding of 2
or more yarns for ply and wound on bobin..

4.2.11 TFO
The two for one twist machine is for twisting the plied yarn and produces bigger cones. To
prevent sloughing off, here, a guide takes the yarn around the package forming a firm
setting. A cone weighs up to 1.8 kg. Z/Z twist is given.
 26

4.2.12 Singeing

The yarns are made to pass through flames at fixed temperature, pressure and maintaining
other specifications. This is done to remove loose fibers and short hairs that cause
disturbance in the smoothness of the yarn. CNG is used as fuel and singed yarn is obtained
as output.

Fig.4.5 Combing process

( Source : http://dilube.com/en/product/combing-and-semi-combing-process/)

4.3 Weaving

Weaving is interlacement of warp with weft thread. In weaving, the warp thread and weft
yarn are crossed over one another in a set method in order to weave the required type of
fabric. A machine designed to accomplish this task is called a loom. First, the warp thread
and weft yarn are prepared so that they can be set into the loom.
 27

Process flow

Winding

Warping

Direct Warping Sectional Warping

Sizing

Loom Beam

Drawing In Winding

Weaving Weft

Fig.4.6 Weaving full process

flow chart chart

4.3.1 Weaving prepatory processes

4.3.1.1 Dyeing
Dyeing is a method which imparts beauty to the textile by applying various colours and
their shades on to a fabric. Dyeing can be done at any stage of the manufacturing of textile
– fiber, yarn, fabric or a finished textile product including garments and apparels. The
 28

property of color fastness depends upon two factors – selection of proper dye according to
the textile material to be dyed and selection of the method for dyeing the fiber, yarn or
fabric.

Yarn Dyeing

Yarn Dyeing is the process by which colored yarn is obtained. There are many forms of yarn
dyeing. Common forms are the package form and the hanks form.

Package Dyeing - The term package dyeing usually denotes for dyeing of any type yarn
wound on the compressible dye springs/perforated solid dyeing tubes or cones . Yarn
dyeing in package form is done at under high pressure, with the packages mounted on
hollow spindles .These spindles are fixed on the dyeing carriers, which is inserted into the
dyeing vessel after closing the lid of the machine, the dyeing liquor is forced through the
packages in two way pattern (inside to out and outside to in) and goes on circulating
throughout the vessel and yarn. With the start of dyeing cycle, the dye liquor goes on
circulating throughout the vessel and tank. This happens till all the dye is used up or fully
exhausted. Once full exhaustion is brought about, the carrier of colored yarn is
consequently removed from the vessel. Finally the yarn is dried using an infra-red drying
oven.

Soft winding - Yarns are transferred from paper cones to plastic tubes or steel tubes
(package dyeing) or beams (beam dyeing).
Batching - Yarns are batched according to their count, lot, yarn type and others. A batch
card is formed which contained the essential information of that batch.
Dyeing - The yarn for spinning room is in form of spinning bobbins. For dyeing purposes,
it has to be packed in Spring tubes (which can be compressed) or plastic tubes. These
packages are named packages, which are then sent for dyeing. Beams are prepared which
are then sent for yarn beam dyeing.
Soft packaging - The requirements that a yarn dye package has to meet can be split into 2
major aspects.
 Demands from dyeing.
 Demands from downstream processes and quality control.
 29

Hydroextractor and Dryer - Excess water of the dyed yarn is removed. Hydroextracting
without deformation of bobbins and cones provides better results in drying and rewinding.
Therefore the overall system hydro-extracting – drying – rewinding system increases
efficiency and quality.

Soft winding

Batching

Yarn dyeing

Hydroextractor

Dryer

Rewinding

Fig.4.7 Process flow of yarn dyeing

Beam Dyeing – Beam dyeing is the much larger version of package dyeing. An entire warp
beam is wound on to a perforated cylinder, which is then placed in the beam dyeing
machine, where the flow of the dye bath alternate as in the package dyeing. Beam dyeing
is more economical than package dyeing, but it is only used in the manufacturing of woven
fabrics where an entire warp beam is dyed.
Besides the yarn being wound in the form of soft packages, it is also wound on beams for
beam dyeing purpose. Beam dyeing is mainly carried out if we want one color in the warp
direction of the fabric. Spinning bobbins are placed on creels, and the yarn from each
bobbin is then collected and sent to the machine, where it is wound on cylinders.
 30

4.3.1.2Winding

Yarn packages come from the dyeing unit in the form of packages winded in spring or PP
tube. They can‘t be directly used for warping or for weft yarn on the looms. So the weaving
department is equipped with winding machines and autoconers. These machines are also
used to recycle the left over cone packages. Packages that have been used for warping or
as weft on the looms, (and are left with some yarn on them) are collected and converted to
bigger packages so they can be used again.

In the process, the yarn from a number of ring frame bobbins or hanks is put in a long
continuous length on to bigger packages such as Warper‘s bobbin, cone or cheese. During
this process, the objectionable faults are removed from yarn. For the use of dyed yarn, ring
frame bobbins may be taken to reeling process to obtain hanks. These hanks are dyed &
then sent to winding. The yarn is dyed in cone/cheese form also. Thus, winding packages
(warpers‘ bobbin, corn or cheese) are taken to next process of warping i.e. Direct Warping
or Sectional Warping.
Objectives of Winding
 Scanning and faults removing: Electric Scanners are used for checking and
elimination of yarn faults during winding process.This process is called
Usterization of yarn. Such faults are called scan-cuts.
 Splicing of broken or cut yarn: Auto splicing is done for broken yarn pieces to
eliminate yarn knots and bad piecing.
 Bigger and quality package: Conversion of yarn from small ring bobbins to bigger
yarn cones of different international standard or as per requirement of customer.
During achieving above objectives or making of winding cones some faults are
created during the process. These faults need to be controlled through monitoring
and continuous study.
 Most of the winding faults are very dangerous for the next subsequent process
which can be warping or knitting or doubling. We can face complains from
customer of breakage of yarn during unwinding process.
 31

4.3.1.3 Warping

Warping is one of the processes during weaving preparation . The process involves
transferring yarn from a predetermined number of tubes, cones, or cheeses positioned on
the creel onto a warper's beam or a weaver's beam. Warping machines can process all type
of materials including coarse and fine filament and staple yarns, monofilament, textured
and smooth yarns, silk and other synthetic yarn such as glass.
The essential features of a good warp are as follows:
 Sufficiently and uniformly strong.
 Uniform in cross section.
 Uniform warp tension.
 Uniformly sized.
 Less hairy and clean.
 Minimum no. of knots.
 Proper or standard size and types of knots.
 Free from naps, slubs and loose fibers.
 Parallel arrangement of warp yarn in the weavers beam.
Direct warping
This method of producing warps is used mainly when the final fabric requires warp patterning.
This warping method is also coupled with warp sizing to enhance the warp quality.
In the direct warping process, an end from each of the cone packages positioned on the creel is drawn
from the warp stop motion and tensioning unit located on the creel. It is brought forward to the
headstock of the machine located in the front of the creel, passed through an expandable zig zag-
shaped comb and over the measuring roller. The process is complete when all the packages in a sheet
form are wound on to a warper's beam.
The objective of warping is to collect a predetermined number of single end packages (winding
package from which a single thread comes out on unwinding) & convert it into sheet form with
ends uniformly spaced & wind a specified length on to warper‘s beam. Thus at the end of process,
we get a multi end package (package which on unwinding give no. of ends) i.e. warper‘s beam wound
with a sheet of uniformly spaced (hundreds of) ends of specified length.
 32

Sectional warping
This method of warping is generally carried out for warp yarns with obvious colored
patterns or patterns formed by other means such as different twist directions. This warping
method is not associated with the sizing process, and is suitable for preparing warp yarns
for shorter runs of high-class goods. A sectional warping machine consists of three basic
units, which are the creel, winding drum, and beaming unit.

In section warping, warp yarns are organized into yarn bands (sections), each having the
same warp density as for the weaver's beam. The warp yarns are wound onto the drum band
by band until all yarns are wound onto the drum. Then, the yarn sheet is transferred from
the drum onto the weaver's beams.

Speed of machine is 500-600 mpm (meter per minute).

Fig. 4.8 Sectional Warping

 33

4.3.1.4 Sizing

Sizing is the process of applying the size material on yarn. A generic term for compounds
that are applied to warp yarn to bind the fiber together and stiffen the yarn to provide
abrasion resistance during weaving.
In the sizing process, a coating of a starch-based adhesive is applied to the sheet of yarn to
improve its weavability. It increases yarn strength; it also reduces hairiness, which
minimizes the abrasion that occurs between the warp threads and the various parts of loom,
and between threads that are adjacent to each other.

Fig.4.9 Warp yarns being dipped in the size paste

Generally source sizing chemicals (Seycofilm, Seycobond etc.) from Refnol

Resins & Chemicals, Ahmedabad (Gujarat).
 34

Objectives of Sizing
1. To protect the yarn from abrasion
2. To improve the breaking strength of the yarn
3. To increase smoothness of yarn
4. To increase yarn elasticity
5. To decrease hairiness
6. To decrease the generation of static electricity
Sizing Ingredients
1. Starch.
2. Binder.
3. Softener.
4. Anti-septic agent.
5. Anti-static agent.
6. Weting agent.
Typical sizing recipe
In 500 Liter Water
•Starch : 10-20%of water.
•Binder : 2-4% of water.
•Softener : 0.5-1% of water.

4.3.1.5 Drawing –in

The one-by-one threading of the warp yarns through the spaces between the dents of the
reed is an operation which is referred to as drawing-in or reeding. The process of passing
warp threads through heald eyes and reed dents according to the desired design is called
drawing or denting.
Procedure:
 Beam released from warping is brought in this section.
 Warp ends are drawn through heald eyes of frames as instructed in the draft by
Design department.
 Ends are simultaneously drawn through reed dents also.
 Ends are taken over serrated bars and drop pins are put on each individual end.
 35

 The yarns ends are tied together to avid entangling and removal from healed eyes.
 The whole assembly (of beam, serrated bars with drop pins, heald frames and reed)
is put on a trolley and taken to looms by beam getters for gaiting by jobbers.
 In classic shirting division 8000 threads are being set on one loom and the denting
order is 3.

In Arvind drawing in is done in two ways:

1. Manual drawing in
2. Automatic drawing in

4.3.2 Weaving Mechanism

Primary motions
 Shedding- It involves rising and (or) descending of warp yarns to create a space
amongst the warp yarns for weft direction.
 Picking- Picking refers to weft insertion. It is means by which the weft is
projected through the shed.
 Beating- It is pushing of newly inserted pick to fell of cloth.
Shedding- It uses computers into which desired lifting plan is fed.This is then entered
onto a disc that is subsequently fed to the dobby, where the pattern is read and
memorized by an electronic system. This system eliminates the possibility of miss-lifts
resulting from broken pegs and torn pattern sheets. As a disc can be removed from the
dobby after the pattern has been memorized, it can be used for a number of looms so
removing the need to make duplicate patterns.

Secondary motion
There are three secondary motions in weaving.
Let-off : The sheet of the warp yarn is controlled by keeping it under tension.
 36

Take-up: The cloth take-up motion withdraws cloth from the fell and then stores it at
thefront of the loom.
Weft Selection: A weft selection or patterning mechanism is only necessary when it is
desired to vary the weft being inserted.

There are 6 divisions of the classic shirting section in Arvind. I visited the Classic I
division.
There are two different type of machines in loom shed:
1. Airjet
2. Rapier

There were mainly Airjet machines while just a few Rapier machines. There were in total
192 Airjet looms (Brand: Toyota JAT710) and 75 Rapier looms.

Machines Number
Top Beam machines 14
Tucking motion (for selvedge) machine 8
Leno motion (for Selvedge) machine 81
16 shaft Dobby machine 89
Table 4.1 No. of machines in classic I weaving sectrion

Air jet looms

Air jet weaving is a type of weaving in which the filling yarn is inserted into the warp shed
with compressed air. Air jet system utilizes a multiple nozzle systems and a profiled reed.
Yarn is drawn from a filing supply package by the filing feeder and each pick is measured
for the filling insertion by means of a stopper. Upon release of the filling yarn by the
stopper, the filling is fed into the reed tunnel via tandem and main nozzles, which provide
the initial acceleration. The relay nozzles provide the high air velocity across the weave
shed. Profiled reed provides guidance for the air and separates the filling yarn from the
warp yarn.
There are 192 Airjet looms for weaving and operates at a speed of 960 rpm. The production
capacity of these machines is 100 meters of fabric per loom per shift. Arvind uses Toyota
manufactured JAT 810 looms for weaving purpose.
 37

When the production begins, the pre winder is released which is responsible for the release
of filling yarn in the main nozzle. On the other end, a catch cord catches the weft. The yarn
attached from the prewinder but the end from the pre winder is held at the machine end in
the next insertion. This is followed by the beat-up motion, after which shedding and beating
take place for the next pick.

Rapier looms
The rapier looms are very less in no. in the classical shirting division and are operated at a
speed of 450 rpm and used for weaving fancy fabrics for dobby, plain, twill and rip at the
same time. About 60 meter of fabric is produced by one loom in a day. Arvind uses Picanol
Optimax Rapier looms, these are double rapier loom.

Name of the Machine Type No. of Machines

STAUBLI Delta 110 Drawing in machine 5

Toyota JAT 810 Air Jet loom 192

PICANOL TYPE GAM MAX-4- Rapier loom 75

R-360

Table 4.2 Machines used in weaving section

 38

4.3.3 Quality check

Fig.4.10 Quality check after weaving

Fig.4.11 Closer view of the quality check machine Fig.4.12 Quality fabric marker
 39

Fig.4.13 Inspection report sheet

After weaving inspection of grey fabric is being done. They follow the 4 point system for
inspection. Defects like tear, double pick, missing dent etc. are being detected through
machine and are marked by using the special marker and the inspection sheet is being filled
accordingly. They put a mark in front of the defect names and all the information related
with the fabric is also filled. There is one inspector assigned on one machine to keep
continuous watch on the fabric for finding the defects.

Size of Defect Penalty

points
3 or less 1 point
3 to 6 2 points
6 to 9 3 points
More than 9 4 points
Holes or openings
1” or less 2 points
More than 1” 4 points
Table 4.3 4 point system
 40

4.4 Processing

Singeing

Desizing

Scouring

Bleaching

Drying

Dyeing

Printing

Washing &
Curing

Finishing

Packaging

Fig. 4.14 Flow chart of chemical processing

 41

4.4.1 Singeing

The direct, very intensive flame, the short contact time between flame and fabric, the
ignition flame temperature necessary for the vaporization of polyester and the various
singeing positions represent the decisive advantages of the osthoff-senge singeing system.

4.4.2 Desizing
Desizing is done in order to remove the size from the warp yarns of the woven fabrics.
Warp yarns are coated with sizing agents prior to weaving in order to reduce their frictional
properties, decrease yarn breakages on the loom and improve weaving productivity by
increasing weft insertion speeds. The sizing material present on the warp yarns can act as
a resist towards dyes and chemicals in textile wet processing. It must, therefore, be removed
before any subsequent wet processing of the fabric.
If the fabric is woven from sized yarn, desizing is essential before subjecting it to other
treatments. For this, the fabric must be soaked in 0.5% aqueous solution of amylase
enzyme for 8 hours ensuring that it is completely immersed in the solution. After the size
has been removed, the fabric is subjected to a hot and cold water wash.

4.4.3 Scouring

The term scouring applies to the removal of impurities such as oils, was, gums, soluble
impurities and sold dirt commonly found in textile material and produce a hydrophilic and
clean cloth.
1.To remove natural as well as added impurities of essentially hydrophobic character as
completely as possible.
2. To increase absorbency of textile material
3. To leave the fabric in a highly hydrophilic condition without undergoing chemical or
physical damage significantly.
Scouring process depends on:
 The type of cotton
 The color of cotton
 The cleanliness of cotton
 42

 The twist and count of the yarn

 The construction of the fabric.
Working process:
Kier boiler is a long mild steel or cast iron cylindrical vessel provided with two perforated
tube sheets (disc with a number of holes). One is placed at the bottom and another is top.
These discs are connected by a number of tunes which carry the liquor from the bottom
compartment to the upper one. In the middle compartment steam is passed. Thus the tubes
carrying the liquor are surrounded by steam which heats them.
The hot liquor from the multi tubular heater is sprayed over the cloth, packed in the kier,
through a hollow perforated ring. The liquid passes slowly over the packed cloth, collects
below the false bottom, from where it is pumped into the auxiliary heater by a centrifugal
pump and the cycle repeats.

4.4.4 Bleaching

Bleaching is chemical treatment employed for the removal of natural coloring matter from
the substrate. The source of natural color is organic compounds with conjugated double
bonds , by doing chemical bleaching the discoloration takes place by the breaking the
chromophore , most likely destroying the one or more double bonds with in this conjugated
system. The material appears whiter after the bleaching.

4.4.5 Dyeing

The dyeing of cloth after it is being woven or knitted is known as piece dyeing. It is the
most common method of dyeing used. The various methods used for this type of dyeing
include jet dyeing. Jig dyeing, pad dyeing and beam dyeing.
In piece dyeing, which is used primarily for fabrics that are to be a solid color, a continuous
length of dry cloth is passed full-width through a trough of hot dye solution. The cloth then
goes between padded rollers that squeeze in the color evenly and removes the excess liquid.
In one variation of this basic method, the fabric, in a rope-like coil, is processed on a reel
that passes in and out of a dye beck or vat.
 43

4.5 Printing

4.5.1 Engraving Process

Designs are set in best image software that is connected to machines such that patterns are
defined in respective manner. The rollers are set in different machines and the process of
engraving starts. The machines make the patterns by making small holes on the roller as
per the design.

4.5.2 Rotary Screen printing

Rotary screen printing is so named because it uses a cylindrical screen that rotates in a
fixed position rather than a flat screen that is raised and lowered over the same print presses
place the squeegee within the screen. Printing on fabric ranging from narrow to wide-
format textiles.
In rotary printing, the fabric travels at a consistent speed between the screen and a steel or
rubber impression roller immediately below the screen. As the fabric passes through the
rotary unit, the screen spins at a rate that identically matches the speed of substrate
movement.
Ink is automatically fed into the center of the screen and collects in a wedge shaped
well formed by the leading side of the squeegee and the screen‘s interior surface. The
motion of the screen causes this bead of ink to roll, which forces ink into stencil openings,
essentially flooding the screen without requiring a flood bar. The squeegee then shears the
ink as the stencil and substrate come into contact, allowing the ink to transfer cleanly to
the material.
There are 5 basic steps in printing a fabric:
 Preparation of the print paste.
 Printing the fabric.
 Drying the printed fabric.
 Fixation of the printed dye or pigment.
 After washing.
 44

4.6 Finishing

Finishing is a term applied to a very broad range of treatments that are usually performed
during the last manufacturing process before fabrication. Some finishing can also be
performed after fabrication.Most common finishes used in shirting in Arvind are normal
finish, RV silk, carbonium pich, brushing, nano finish, templon, mxel, landmark, silk
touch, proban, Italian marvel.
Some of the most common finishes are given below:
 Sanforizing: This is a process where a fabric is overfed between a rubber belt and a heated
cylinder and then fed between a heated cylinder and an endless blanket to control shrinkage
and create a soft hand.
 Calendering: This is a process where fabric is fed between large steel rollers under pressures
that range up to 100 tonnes. These rolls can be heated with either steam or gas to temperatures
up to 232 °C. This process is used to change the hand and appearance of the fabric.
 Sanding: In this process, fabric is fed over rolls which are covered with sand to change the
surface of the fabric and give a softer hand.
 Embossing: This is a process where fabric is fed between heated steel rollers which have
been engraved with a pattern which is permanently transferred to the fabric.
 Heat-setting.: This is a process where synthetic fabric, usually polyester, is run through either
a tenter frame or a semi-contact heat-set machine at temperatures that are high enough to
begin the molecular melting of the fabric. This is done to stabilize the fabric for shrinkage.
 Brushing: This is a process where fabric is run across brushes revolving at high speeds to
change the surface appearance and the hand of the fabric.

4.7 Quality Assurance

In the modern day quality assurance has a wider scope and it includes activities like process
ownership and calibration where in the department ownership is given to a person and it
becomes his/ her duty to deal with it in the most efficient manner. QA Lab is accredited by
Marks & Spencers, Levi’s, L L Bean, Next, Gap Inc, Invista (For Lycra Testing), Liz
Claiborne.
 45

Quality assurance labs :

 Cotton laboratory
 Physical testing laboratory
 Chemical testing laboratory
 Colour quest laboratory
 Calibration laboratory
 Yarn fault-testing

1.Twist tester

2.Wrinkle tester

3.Crockmeter

4.Tearing tester

5.Abrasion and pilling tester

4.8 Packaging

Finished products are being sent to the packaging unit in batch form. The fabric comes in
single fold with all the details intact in the batch card. Once the fabric is received process
of plating is being started. The fabric is being packed in multiples of 1.6 meteres. The
machine available in Arvind covers 0.80 mtr fabric. After plating quality testing is being
done.
 46

Fig.4.15 Double folding of fabric by pleating machine

In retail no defects are allowed whereas in export defects upto 32 point are accepted.
During inspection for retail if any defects are detected then they are mended if possible
otherwise the defected cloth is being eliminated. Left out pieces are being sold according
to kg not meter in very lower price range. After that stamping is being done in the starting
and at end of the fabric roll with meter counted and written.
Roll length of fabric is usually 20m to 50m and in exports it is 40m to 120m.
The width of fabric is 149cm with 1.5cm selvedge (Arvind’s authentic selvedge), selvedge
helps in avoiding stapler marks during finishing.
Packaging is all about presenting the product in front of the customer, the reason it requires
frequent changes. The packaging unit of Arvind has around 250 type of packaging boxes
at a time and they keep on changing according to the need and sales. Packaging colours
depend on the season as well , like flouroscent colours being used during festive
season.Different packaging options provides solution for the sales also as the stock which
is not being sold then the combinations of shirtings and suitings are changed and can be
sold with a new packaging giving freshness to the combination.
 47

Fig. 4.16 Packed fabric

 48

5. Design Departments in Arvind

Arvind

Retail Wholesale
Exports Brands

Primante Tresca

Shirting Suiting

Fig.5.1 Flow chart of Various design departments in Arvind

 49

5.1 Direct To Retail Division

5.1.1 Suiting

Primante worsted suitings are made in Italy and neighbouring European land. The designs
are crafted by Eminent Italian Design house in Milan – the capital of fashion and
innovation. It’s a collection of All wool & Wool rich fine count Suiting fabrics with blends
like silk, mohair, Lycra, linen and innovative poly filaments.

The Antalya collection is a line of meticulously crafted suits that are the cutting-edge of
style and design. The designs and style are the epitome of modern and cool with 3 different
collections – Elegance, Fast Fashion & Cerimonia

In Tresca Suiting Range: - 100 % Giza cotton - 100 % linen & linen Blends - Cotton wool
blends - Poly wool are being introduced.

5.1.2 Shirting

Crafted to match the contemporary international style and luxury, Tresca is an elite fabric
designed using some of the finest raw materials furnished by cutting edge technologies.
Choose from fine quality fabrics made from the best raw materials and cutting edge
technology and get a luxurious fashion experience.
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5.2 The Arvind Store

Fig.23 Entrance of the Arvind Store Division inside Santej unit

The Arvind Store is a first of its kind for the fabric retail channel. Taking a step away
from the conventional look-and-feel, The Arvind Store is a complete lifestyle fashion
destination that offers shirting, suiting & denim fabrics, readymade apparels of popular
international brands, custom tailoring and customized jeans.
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Fig. 5.2 Arvind Tresca

5.3 Tresca

Arvind geared for major expansion drive Arvind has relieved its expansion plans for its
premium brand, Tresca. Arvind plans to expand Tresca’s retail network on the background
of Tresca’s 100% growth on CAGR basis. Arvind wants to launch new products under
Tresca and strengthen its distribution network. Arvind is also targeting penetration of
Tresca in tier-II and tier-III cities and expand its distribution exponentially. They want to
achieve this within two years.

Tresca deals with Giza cotton and linen base. Linen shirting contributes 30-40 percent to
the premium shirting fabric sales in India.
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For its overseas expansion, Arvind plans to take Tresca to Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and West
Asia. Tresca is luxury unparalleled.This carefully crafted collection features aesthetics of
a contemporary nature, a kind of practicality that is exclusive to Tresca and definitive haute
coutoure elements. Tresca never fails to impress, thanks to its unmistakable identity and
freshness. It offers everything an elite customer would need for all kinds of occasasions
capturing the elegance of priceless moments, everytime.

Quality is ensured by using the best raw materials and by using cutting edge technologies
from processing the fibre to finishing the fabrics. A unique combination of style and luxury,
Tresca is for the deserving few. Tresca is a new benchmark in the premium fabrics segment
in the country from Arvind. Following are the characteristics of Tresca fabric: - Strength -
Appearance retention - Wear Resistance - Colour fastness Tresca is available in following
varieties: In Shirting Range: - 100 % Giza cotton - 100 % linen & linen Blends

5.4 Tresca Shirting

Tresca is Arvind’s premium retail brand. It has various sub brands under it, Some of them
are:

 Austin
 Middleton
 Enactulate
 Chicago
 Laurent
 Leno smart
 Belezza
 Belezza plus
 Urban solace
 Nelsond
 Milennial choice
 Stanford
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Count :Count of Shirts in Arvind’s Retail ranges from 50 to 2/170 (50, 60,70,80, 90,
100, 2/100, 2/120, 2/140, 2/170).

Raw Materials used : Tresca shirts are mainly fully made of cootton while Tencil,
Modal and Linen are also used and being blended with cotton.

Collections

There are two broad categories of collections. The first are the NOS – Never Out of
Stock.These are being designed by keeping in mind the type of patterns and designs
which are mostly accepted by most of the customers. The other category involves
collections in whose case every two months a new collection is being launched. The
collections mainly include:

 Yarn dyed ( Check and stipes)

 Rotary prints
 Digital prints
 Jacquard fabrics
 Plain fabrics
 Finishes

Finishes
Most Common Finishes used in Tresca are:

 Normal Shirting finish (Soft finish)

 Ivory finish
 Liquid Ammonia + Anti microbial finish
 Liquid Ammonia + Mild Resin + Antimicrobial finish
 Mild Resin + Calendaring
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Sampling

Sampling of the designs is done on the CTI looms in the design and development
department. These are fully computerized automatic looms in which the data is being feed
and generates 12 inches sample.

5.5 Hierarchy in Tresca

Mr. Hari Kadka

Marketing Head, Tresca

Mr. Mayur Khedkar Mr. Vishal Vakeel

Senior Manager, Design & Marketing Department
Development

Mr. Manish Gupta

Manager, Design and Development
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References
Arvind Ltd. (2019). ARVIND | Fashioning Possibilities. [online] Available at:
https://www.arvind.com/businesses/fabric-apparel [Accessed 12 Aug. 2019].

Sciencedirect.com. (2019). Warping - an overview | ScienceDirect Topics. [online] Available at:

https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/materials-science/warping [Accessed 15 Aug. 2019].

Web.itu.edu.tr. (2019). [online] Available at:

https://web.itu.edu.tr/~berkalpo/Weaving_Lecture/Weaving_Chapter1b_06S.pdf [Accessed 18
Aug. 2019].

Sciencedirect.com. (2019). Warping - an overview | ScienceDirect Topics. [online] Available at:

https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/materials-science/warping [Accessed 15 Aug. 2019].

Iosrjournals.org. (2019). [online] Available at: http://www.iosrjournals.org/iosr-

jmce/papers/Conf15008/Vol-5/56-60.pdf [Accessed 2 Sep. 2019].

Anon, (2019). [online] Available at: https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/08/define-sizing-

objects-of-sizing-types_286.html tresca [Accessed 20 Aug. 2019].

Manager, I. (2019). Dyeing, Printing and Finishing. [online] Iloencyclopaedia.org. Available at:
http://iloencyclopaedia.org/part-xiv-42166/textile-goods-industry/144-89-textile-goods-
industry/dyeing-printing-and-finishing [Accessed 3 Sep. 2019].

indiamart.com. (2019). Arvind Tresca Suiting Fabric. [online] Available at:

https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/arvind-tresca-suiting-fabric-11633315312.html [Accessed 4
Sep. 2019].
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