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Vienna Guide

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The document discusses an Austrian-Spanish fusion restaurant called Das Schick located in Vienna that combines traditional Austrian cuisine with Spanish flair.

The restaurant serves Austrian-Spanish specialties and a menu that combines Austrian tradition with spirited Spanish flair.

The restaurant is open Monday to Friday from 12:00-15:00 and 18:00-22:30, and Saturday, Sunday and holidays from 18:00-22:30. The kitchen is open at noon until 14:30 and in the evenings until 22:00.

Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Vienna
September – October 2019

inyourpocket.com
N°54 - €1.75
RESTAURANT „DAS SCHICK“
INDULGE IN TREATS – ABOVE THE ROOFTOPS OF VIENNA

© Schick Hotels Wien

„Das Schick“, your decorated restaurant in Vienna,


combines Austrian tradition and spirited Spanish
flair. Experience a unique, appealing atmosphere,
delicious Austrian-Spanish specialities, and a menu
that will enchant you. Indulge in the fantastic
view over the roofs of the Austrian capital and
treat yourself to culinary delights in the elegant
atmosphere of the restaurant. Experience the
superb quality of the creative and seasonal meals
© Schick Hotels Wien with the adapted wines and beverages.

ENJOY PREMIUM AUSTRIAN-SPANISH DELICACIES


AT RESTAURANT “DAS SCHICK”!

RESTAURANT “DAS SCHICK” AT HOTEL AM PARKRING


Parkring 12, 1010 Vienna
15 Tel. +43 (1) 514 80-417, restaurant-das-schick@schick-hotels.com, www.das-schick.at
OPENING HOURS – Mon. - Fri. 12:00 - 15:00 and 18:00 - 22:30,
Sat, Sun and holiday 18:00 - 22:30
Kitchen at noon until 14:30, in the evenings until 22:00
Contents

Vienna

Street lamps and Votive Church during chilly autumn evening in Vienna © Jaromir Chalabala

History 5 Sightseeing 38
From imperial to contemporary
Arriving in Vienna 6
Day trip to Bratislava 45
Getting Around 7
Jewish Vienna 46
Vienna Districts 8
Synagogues & museums
Basics 9
Shopping 48
Events 10 Whatever you want
Concerts, exhibitions and more
Wellness & Beauty 51
City of Classical Music 16
Hotels 52
Vienna sounds good
From park bench to Park Grand
Coffeehouses 18
Directory 56
Coffee, cake & culture
Maps & Index
Restaurants 20 Street register 58
From Wiener Schnitzel to BBQ Centre map 59-61
Venue index 62
Nightlife 32
Bars, clubs and other dark rooms

facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 3


Foreword
Another summer came, another summer went, and what a
summer it was. The sun did a number on Vienna and then COVER STORY
some, but the good people of the city found more than
enough refuge in the parks and beer gardens of the city, Summer might be over, but Vienna is
with an emphasis on the latter. It is time for autumn, our a photogenic beauty no matter what
favourite time of year, so what is on the menu? time of year. Head up to the observation
deck of St Stephen’s Cathedral to get a
The last vestiges of summer weather will stick around stunner of a shot, much like Maryna
for a little longer in the city, meaning there will be Datsenko did here. You won’t get a
plenty of afternoon sun for a few weeks, but the evening better view of St Peter’s, that’s for sure.
temperatures will soon begin to dip. What better time to © Datsenko Maryna, Shutterstock
head into the theatres to see why Vienna is considered the
home of classical music? No city in the world does high
culture like the Austrian capital. PUBLISHER & STAFF
Few cities do coffee and beer like Vienna too. The coming Publisher
In Your Pocket GmbH
months will see the locals make the move from summer Axel-Springer-Straße 39, 10969 Berlin
terraces indoors, to warm up via excited conversation and Vienna office Tel: +43 664 131 85 97
some of the best coffee on the continent in Europe’s most vienna@inyourpocket.com
graceful cafes and bars. www.inyourpocket.com

We’ve got all that covered in this, the 54th issue of Vienna Editor John William Bills
Contributors Paul Nogid, Dune Johnson, Gretl Satorius
In Your Pocket, but we’re not afraid to turn our eyes to Layout Tomáš Haman; Photos Evi Bauer, Reinhard Böhm
magic outside of the city. And that’ll do for now, so enjoy Maps IYP GmbH
your autumn. We welcome any and all feedback of course,
whether via social media, email, or slipped in during a solid Sales & Circulation
General Manager Stephan Krämer
gossip session at Hawelka. We’ll see you there. Production Manager Philippe Krüger
Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt
John Bills is an independent author, Advertising Manager Mario Böhm
travel writer, and amateur darts player Copyright notice
from Wales. He has been working for Text and photos (unless otherwise stated) copyright In Your
In Your Pocket for half a decade, and Pocket GmbH 2010-2019. All rights reserved. No part of this
is the author of four decidedly non- publication may be reproduced without written permission
academic travel and history books from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket is used un-
der license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius,
that are available at his little bookshop Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
(www.poshlostbooks.com).

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4 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com


History
What started as a tiny village along the Wien river
has blossomed into one of the world’s great cities, the
10th largest in the European Union and one of the most
important in modern history. This is Vienna.

ANTIQUITY
Vienna was founded around 500 years before the arrival
of JC himself, and by 15BC it had developed into a Roman
frontier city called Vindobona. It had the thankless task of
protecting the Roman Empire from marauding German
tribes. It did a pretty good job, all things considering.
Statue of Emperor Joseph II © Pigprox, Shutterstock

The city was badly damaged during the Soviet advances


HABSBURGS of 1944 and ’45, but was largely reconstructed in the
AND OTTOMANS decades that followed the war, when Vienna was divided
into sectors ruled by France, UK, USA and the Soviet Union.
(BUT MOSTLY HABSBURGS) The occupation lasted just a decade. The city centre was
The growing city became the residence of the Habsburg proclaimed a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001, some
Dynasty in 1440, eventually graduating to the vaulted 46 years after full independence returned to Austria. The
position of capital of the Holy Roman Empire. This extra capital has gone from strength to strength in the decades
importance did not go ignored, and the Ottoman Empire since, becoming the host city of a number of influential
came knocking on the door in the 16th and 17th centuries, international organisations such as the International
with the city avoiding destruction by the skin of its teeth Atomic Energy Agency. Vienna’s history is a thrill-a-minute
during the 1529 Siege of Vienna — you know lucky is ride through the evolution of European society, and its
on your side when it takes winter and the plague to save future promises to be just as exciting.
the day. Vienna took note and expanded its fortifications,
allowing the city to survive for two months during the 1683
Battle of Vienna and give ample time for Polish King Jan FROM THE MAYOR
Sobieski to ride in and save the day. The Ottomans were
gone for good. Vienna is a city of many oppor-
tunities. There are a multitude
With the fear of Ottoman invasion gone, baroque became of qualities that make staying
the name of the game during the 18th century. Much of or living here very pleasant for
the city’s magnificent architecture came into being during visitors and citizens alike: a flour-
this glorious time, with summer palaces sprouting up all ishing economy, a rich cultural
over the place. Vienna became the capital of the massive scene, social stability, very good
Austrian Empire in 1804, which became the Austro- healthcare, a well-developed
Hungarian dual monarchy in 1867. Already an important public transport network, fasci-
nating old and new architecture, © PID, Jobst
cultural centre, Vienna flourished artistically as the empire
struggled politically, and classical music in particular many parks and gardens as well as the Vienna Woods -
entered a genuine golden period. Emperor Franz Josef I and last but not least – the excellent Viennese cuisine.
transformed the city, and today’s Vienna began to come So it may not come as a surprise that Vienna has been
into focus. named the most liveable city worldwide for the ninth
year in a row in the 2018 Mercer quality of living sur-
vey. “The Economist” also ranked Vienna in first place
20TH CENTURY worldwide in terms of quality of life in 2018. The many
Vienna’s non-stop expansion continued into the 20th fine qualities of our city also contribute to the fact that
century, when industrialisation and immigration saw many renowned international organisations such as
it become the sixth largest city in the world by 1910. the United Nations, OPEC and IAEA have chosen Vienna
World War I put an end to the Habsburg Empire and the as location for their headquarters.
Republic of Deutsch-Österreich was created in 1918, with As Mayor I am particularly pleased that you have cho-
fashionable socialism making its presence felt here too. sen Vienna as destination for a city trip. I hope you will
‘Red Vienna’ was brief but progressive, and would have have a wonderful time here and enjoy the many cu-
felt a lifetime away when Adolf Hitler (himself an Austrian) linary delights and cultural attractions our city has to
marched into town in 1938 when the ‘Anschulss’ (joining offer. Welcome to Vienna!
together of Germany and Austria took place. Vienna’s large
Jewish population suffered greatly during World War II and Michael Ludwig
was utterly decimated by the Holocaust.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 5
Arriving in Vienna
Taking a taxi to the centre takes about 15 minutes. If you
CITY AIRPORT TRAIN just hop into a waiting taxi outside, the ride will cost about
€45, including the fee for returning to the airport empty;
it costs €33 if you mention to the driver or dispatcher that
you’d like the set price (Pauschaltariff).

BY TRAIN
Vienna’s new Wien Hauptbahnhof (central station) is
a short distance from the city centre; hop on tram D
to reach the Ring. There are plenty of luggage lockers
and ATMs for fresh arrivals, and there’s a helpful tourist
information office.

The City Airport Train connects the city centre


BY BUS
(U-Bahn Landstrasse/S-Bahn Wien Mitte) to Vienna All international buses arrive at the Vienna International
International Airport. Trains depart every half hour Busterminal (VIB), which has ATMs and luggage lockers.
at :09 and :39 minutes past the hour from airport Right across the street is the Erdberg U-Bahn station, from
station and :07 and :37 from Wien Mitte. The ride where it’s a 10 minute ride to the city centre.
takes 16 minutes and prices start at €11 for a single
trip and €19 for a return trip (€1 discount with the
Vienna Card); book online for the best rates. The City
BY CAR
Air Terminal in the city centre offers travellers the Major highways connect Vienna to Munich (4 hours)
services of an international airport terminal: you can Budapest (3hrs), north and south. When parking in Vienna,
get your boarding pass and check in your baggage pay attention to the short-term parking zones in the inner
from 24 hours until 75 minutes before take-off. All districts of the city; use the well-signposted Park & Ride
trains offer free wifi.QMLandstraße/Wien Mitte, facilities (€3 per day) in the outer districts and take an
www.cityairporttrain.com, tel. +43 1 252 50. U-Bahn or tram into town.

BY FERRY
BY PLANE The Danube river is increasingly used for ferry routes to
Vienna’s international airport is located in Schwechat, 18km Hungary, Slovakia and Germany. Ferries arrive at Anlegestelle
southeast of the city centre. After passing customs (for Reichsbrücke near U-Bahn station Vorgartenstrasse. Twin
arrivals from outside the Schengen zone) and collecting City Liner boats dock at Marienbrücke bridge near the
your baggage, ATMs, banks and tourist information can be Schwedenplatz U-Bahn station.
found in the arrivals hall.

To get to town, there’s a choice of rail or road. The City AIRPORT


Airport Train (CAT, +43 1 252 50, www.cityairporttrain. Vienna International Airport (Flughafen Wien, airport
com) departs every half hour between 06:09 and 23:39, code VIE, tel. +43 1 700 72 22 33, www.viennaairport.com)
arriving at U-Bahn station Wien Mitte. The ride takes 16 is located 18 kilometres southeast of central Vienna. It is
minutes and costs from €11 for a single trip, and from €19 often referred to as Schwechat, after the nearby town. Since
for a return trip (book online for the best price; reduced the fall of the Iron Curtain and EU enlargement in 2004
rate with the Vienna Card). You can also take a regular the airport has developed into a hub for flights to Eastern
S-Bahn train, departing from the airport to Wien Mitte Europe and the Middle East, with over 30% of the 20 million
station approximately every 30 minutes between 04:34 passengers per year in transit.
and 00:18; tickets cost €4 and the ride takes about 25
minutes. The airport is served by the City Airport Train (CAT) from
the city centre between 05:36 and 23:06, by S-Bahn trains
Vienna Airport Lines buses (tel. +43 1 700 73 23 00, (between 04:34 and 23:47) from Wien-Mitte station and
www.viennaairportlines.at) depart every 30 minutes by buses from the VIB bus terminal. Passengers of Austrian
between 05:00 to 23:00, stopping off at U-Bahn Airlines and most other Star Alliance airlines using the City
Schwedenplatz, the train stations Wien Meidling and Airport Train can check in their luggage at Wien-Mitte station.
Wien Westbahnhof and the Vienna International Center
(VIC), taking about 30 minutes. A single ride costs €8, AIR BERLINQtel. +43 1 70 12 60, www.airberlin.com.
a return trip €13, and tickets can be bought from the AIR FRANCEQtel. +43 1 502 22 24 00,
driver. www.airfrance.com.

6 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com


Getting around
AUSTRIAN AIRLINESQtel. +43 5 17 66 10 00, most visitors won’t need them though the handy night
www.austrian.com. buses replace the U-Bahn from 00:45 to 05:00 on weekdays.
BRITISH AIRWAYSQtel. +43 1 79 56 75 67, Tickets cost €2,40 for a single ride, though it’s well
www.ba.com. worth getting a day ticket if you’re planning on using
LUFTHANSAQtel. +43 8 10 10 25 80 80, public transport more than a few times. A 24-hour
www.lufthansa.com. ticket costs €8, a 48-hour ticket €14,10 and a 72-hour
ticket €17,10. Tickets must be validated before getting
SWISSQtel. +43 8 10 81 08 40, www.swiss.com. on board. Tickets can be purchased from multilingual
machines at every U-Bahn station and on buses and
trams, though single tickets bought on board cost
CAR RENTAL €2,60 and only coins are accepted. You can also visit the
The international car rental companies have offices at the ticket sales offices of Wiener Linien at the Stephansplatz,
airport as well as on the Ringstrasse near the main hotels. Karlsplatz, Westbahnhof and Wien Mitte U-Bahn stations.
Rentals start from €80 per day. The 72 hour ticket can also be purchased at the Tourist
Information Office. Children up to six years old always
AVISQtel. +43 800 08 00 87 57, www.avis.at. travel free; children up to 15 ride free on Sundays,
holidays and during Vienna’s school holidays (photo ID
EUROPCAR required). The Vienna Card offers 24, 48 and 72 hours of
QB-3, Schubertring 9, tel. +43 866 16 11/+43 866 16 travel on public transport plus more than 210 discounts
10, wien1@europcar.at, www.europcar.at. Open 07:30 - to museums, concerts, cafés, and more. It can be bought
18:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. at the Tourist Information Offices or use the discount
code POCKET1 for 10% off when purchasing online or
through the app or at www.viennacitycard.at.
DRIVING & PARKING
Parking in central Vienna is expensive; the 20 public
garages in the centre charge up to €5 per hour. Street TAXIS
parking tickets (€1 per 30 minutes) can be purchased from Taxis are a safe and fast way to get around Vienna. After
news agents (Trafiken), the offices of Wiener Linien, many the start-up fee of €2,50, fares are about €1 per kilometre
petrol stations, major train stations and by SMS on the A1 with €0,40 for waiting. At night between 23:00 and 06:00,
mobile network. Day visitors to Vienna are better off using a start-up is €2,60 and rates are around €1,30 per kilometre.
Park & Ride facility in the outskirts (€3 per day) and taking Taxis can be hailed on the street, ordered in advance (€2,50
the tram or U-Bahn to the city centre. extra) or taken from a taxi station in the city centre (€1,25
If you plan to drive on Austria’s highways (all A and S roads) extra). At night it’s best to call for a cab. When taking a taxi
you’ll need a vignette sticker on your windscreen costing to the airport, ask for the Pauschaltariff rate of €33 to avoid
€7.90 for 10 days, which can be purchased at petrol stations. paying €12 on top of the metre fare for the return trip.

TAXI 31300Qtel. +43 1 313 00, www.taxi31300.at.


LONG-DISTANCE BUSES
The Vienna International Busterminal (VIB, open 06:00- TAXI 40100Qtel. +43 1 401 00, www.taxi40100.at.
21:00) is Vienna’s main bus terminal. All major international
bus lines are operated by Eurolines. TAXI 60160Qtel. +43 1 601 60, www.taxi60160.at.

EUROLINES
QErdbergstrassse 200a (VIB), MErdberg, tel. +43 1 798 TRAINS
29 00, www.eurolines.at. Open 06:30 - 20:30, Sat, Sun The new Wien Hauptbahnhof (central station) opened
06:30 - 11:30, 16:30-20:30. in December 2014 and is now almost operating at full
capacity. Check your timetable carefully to check where to
embark. Among many new connections are the ICE high
PUBLIC TRANSPORT speed trains from Linz via Vienna’s new Hauptbahnhof
Vienna’s extensive public transportation system, run by station to Vienna airport, every two hours or so; these
Wiener Linien (Vienna Transport Authority), is an easy and can also be used to get to and from the airport in under
inexpensive way to get around town. The U-Bahn (metro) 20 minutes. Train tickets can be bought at all stations, but
runs daily from 05:00 to 00:30, and non-stop on Fridays and are best booked in advance on the bilingual ÖBB website,
Saturdays and before public holidays. Suburban S-Bahn where significant reductions are available if you book well
trains radiate outwards from the city to the surrounding in advance.
districts and towns. Trams are the best way to get around
the inner city sights, running every 5-15 minutes between ÖBB (AUSTRIAN RAILWAYS)
05:00 and 00:30. Buses mostly serve Vienna’s suburbs and Qtel. +43 5 17 17, www.oebb.at.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 7
Vienna Districts
4, 5, 6. NASCHMARKT
This is currently Vienna’s most vibrant area with chic cafes
and people strolling past trendy stores and art galleries. You
would not want to miss out on a visit to Vienna’s central
Naschmarkt, selling all sorts of food and with amazing
restaurants and cosy cafés where many tourists and locals
enjoy a break. The Freihausviertel south of Naschmarkt in
the 4th district is the upcoming chic shopping mile. The
6th district, north of Naschmarkt, is known for its many gay
bars.

© Sergey Novikov, Shutterstock 6, 7. MARIAHILFERSTRASSE


Vienna is truly the most international city in Austria, if not AREA
in all of Central Europe, hosting the regional headquarters Mariahilferstrasse is known as Central and Eastern Europe’s
of many international enterprises, the UN, OSCE and most important shopping street. Since the fall of the Iron
OPEC. In the central districts you will have no problem Curtain, hundreds of buses bring shoppers from Hungary,
communicating in English. Vienna has 23 districts, with Czech Republic and Slovakia to Vienna’s top shopping
the 1st being the city centre, N°2-9 wrapped around it street to get their Christmas presents. A lot of interesting
and surrounded by the Gürtel highway. Districts 10-23 are stores, nice restaurants and relaxed bars are found strolling
mainly residential areas. Every district is attractive in its own around the side streets.
way and equally important, generally safe for tourists.
7, 8, 9. GÜRTEL AREA
1. CITY CENTRE Gürtel is the name of the highway ring that encircles
The city centre literally refers to the very heart of Vienna. In the Vienna’s central districts 1-9. In the zone between
mid-19th century Vienna’s old city wall was replaced by the Westbahnhof station and the Danube canal, the red-light
boulevard which in conjunction with the Franz-Josefs-Kai now district has developed into Vienna’s hottest nightlife spot
forms a ring around the city centre. Magnificent buildings such with dozens of clubs and bars, one after the other. Go and
as the state opera house, the Hofburg, the parliament building, find a bar that fits your taste!
the Vienna city hall, the Burgtheater, the university, the Vienna
stock exchange and numerous prestigious buildings line this
splendid boulevard. Most 5-star hotels as well as major sights VIENNESE FOR BEGINNERS
are located here. Tourists will spend most of their time in this
area, with everything more or less within walking distance. Can’t find that strange word in your German dictionary?
While Kärnterstrasse and Graben are the two major shopping Get closer to the Viennese by speaking to them in their
streets in the city centre, Stephansplatz with St. Stephens own lingo.
cathedral is the very centre of Vienna. Baba see you
Badewaschl lifeguard
Beisl local pub that serves food
2. PRATER Bierschtln to drink
Bock shoes
The city’s largest park stretches from the Praterstern metro Fetzn to have a buzz
and train station towards the Ernst Happel stadium. Next Frucht a football
to Praterstern is the Wurstelprater amusement park. Some Habara friend
say it’s better to avoid this area after dark. Leopoldstadt in Habschi boyfriend
Vienna’s 2nd district used to be the Jewish part of town. Herr Ober waiter
Today the jewish community is again growing and you will Kiberer policeman
find kosher bakeries and a number of synagogues. Krügerl large beer
Leiwand awesome
Mahlzeit have a nice meal
3. BELVEDERE Prost! cheers
Seidl small beer
& HUNDERTWASSERHAUS Serwas hello
The third district is one of Vienna’s most desirable addresses. Tschick cigarette
Several buildings designed by Vienna’s most unusual architect Ur-Leiwand very awesome
Friedenreich Hundertwasser, as well as Belvedere Palace, the Weißer Spritzer white wine with sparkling water
Wuchtl joke
luxurious residence of Prince Eugene of Savoy, are all located Zeche check/bill
here. In addition, the district houses numerous embassies and 16er Blech a can of Ottakringer beer
foreign missions, hence its name – the Embassy Quarter.
8 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Basics
BASIC DATA
Population
Austria: 8,773,960; Vienna: 1,867,960 (2017 estimates)
27,4% of people living in Vienna are foreign nationals,
over 140,000 of them originating from the former
Yugoslavia, 45,000 from Turkey and 42,000 from Germany.
Area: Austria: 83,872 km2; Vienna: 414,90 km2
Official languages: German. Slovene, Croatian and
Hungarian are officially recognised.
Local time: Central European (GMT+1hr)
History is king in the Austrian capital
Longest river: Danube (357,5 km in Austria)
Highest mountain: Austria: Großglockner 3,798m POLITICS
Vienna: Hermannskogel 542m
The current mayor of Vienna is Michael Ludwig. Since 1917,
Borders: Austria borders Germany and the Czech Vienna has been (co-)governed by the Social Democratic
Republic to the north, Slovakia and Hungary to the east, Party with an absolute majority in the city parliament
Slovenia and Italy to the south, and Switzerland and (except from 1934 to 1945 when the party was banned
Liechtenstein to the west. and mayors were appointed by the Austro-fascist and
Religion: Roman Catholic 49,2%; no religion 25,6%; later by Nazi authorities). The Social Democrats currently
Muslim 7,8%; Orthodox 6%; Protestant (mostly Lutheran) rule in coalition with the Green Party. Many political
4,7%; Jewish 0,5%. experts believe that the rival Austrian People’s Party would
completely dominate Austrian politics if it weren’t for the
Social Democrats’ unbreakable hold on Vienna. An example
CRIME & SAFETY of the city’s many social democratic policies is the low-cost
Vienna is a safe city to visit, and there’s little to fear except Gemeindebauten residential estates which house about
perhaps for spending too much on food and souvenirs. As 25% of the Viennese population.
elsewhere, avoid dark alleys at night and clutch your wallet
or purse when using public transport or in busy places.
SMOKING
Officially all restaurants, cafés and other such venues
DISABLED TRAVELLERS have to provide a non-smoking section. While recently
Most hotels, restaurants and sights in Vienna are well- many restaurants turned into smoke-free zones, don’t be
equipped for people in wheelchairs or otherwise requiring surprised how smoky many bars and clubs can get. Most
assistance, and public transport is easy to use with its many traditional coffee houses will have a smoking area.
escalators, lifts and low-floor trams. The symbols below
our hotel reviews which hotels are suitable. The city has an
informative site for disabled travellers at www.wien.info/ TIPPING
en/travel-info/accessible-vienna. If the service merits it, waiters appreciate a tip of about
10%; at the bar or at the Würstelstand it’s common to round
up the sum a little.
ELECTRICITY
Austrian electrical current is 220v AC, and the country uses
the standard European round, two-pin sockets. PURCHASING POWER
How far does your euro go in Vienna?
MONEY & COSTS Espresso €2,50
Austria uses the euro (€) with banknotes in denominations of Glass of local beer (0.5 litre) €3,50
€5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500. Coins, whose design
depends on in which country they were minted, come in Bottle of local wine €5
denominations of €0.01, €0.02, €0.05, €0.10, €0.20, €0.50, €1 Packet of cigarettes €4,50
and €2. ATMs can be found everywhere in Vienna and are the Big Mac €3,50
best way to get cash. Vienna is not an overly expensive city by
Public transport ticket €2,40
Western European standards – and competition from nearby
cheap countries keeps the price of for instance cigarettes at bay. Taxi ride across town €20
Vienna´s status of a social democratic stronghold means that Litre of petrol €1,30
public services such as public transport are relatively cheap.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 9
Events

Plenty of fun in the sun in Vienna’s 2nd district | © ernschie

EXHIBITIONS
TICKETS UNTIL 21.10 » OLGA WISINGER-FLORIAN
WIEN-TICKET PAVILLON Olga Wisinger-Florian was one of the most important cogs
in the wheel of late 19th century avant-garde Austrian
landscape painting, and she finally gets some shine at the
Leopold Museum. This is the first large-scale solo exhibition
dedication to her work, and to say it is long overdue is
something of an understatement. Flowers frequently played
a centre role in her work, although you should really head
to the exhibition and find out for yourself. QG‑3, Leopold
Museum, Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel.
+43 1 52 57 00, www.leopoldmuseum.org. Open 10:00
– 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.

A handy box office in a hut by the Staatsoper, selling UNTIL 08.09 » PATTERN AND DECORATION
tickets for all kinds of events in and outside Vienna: Ornament as Promise was the premise of the Pattern and
opera, theatre, shows, concerts, festivals, sports events, Decoration movement in the United States (1975–1985).
musicals, museums and more. You can also pre-book In this exhibition, mumok presents the rich collection of
by phone, picking up the tickets at the pavillion kiosk, works from this movement of Peter and Irene Ludwig,
at one of over 100 outlets across town, or at the venue. in the largest presentation of Pattern and Decoration in
QB-3, Herbert von Karajanplatz, MKarlsplatz, tel. German-speaking Europe since the 1980s.QG‑3, Mumok,
+43 1 588 85, office@wien-ticket.at, www.wien- Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 52
ticket.at. Open 10:00 - 19:00. 50 00, €8-12, www.mumok.at. Open 10:00-19:00, Mon
14:00-19:00, Thu 10:00-21:00.
VIENNA TICKET OFFICE
Tickets for opera, concerts, shows, sights, cruises and
more.QB-3, Kärntner Straße 51, MKarlsplatz, tel. Get the In Your Pocket
+43 1 513 11 11, info@viennaticketoffice.com,
www.viennaticketoffice.com. Open 09:00 - 18:50.
City Essentials App

10 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com


Events
UNTIL 08.09 » SEAN SCULLY - ELEUTHERA
The name of Irish painter Sean Scully is practically synonymous KUNSTHALLE
with abstract paintings of colourful stripes or rectangles, but
the Turner Prize-nominated artist is about more than colourful
lines. This fascinating exhibition at the Albertina takes an
altogether more personal subject to its heart — a collection
of 23 oil paintings of Scully’s seven-year-old son playing on
the beach in the Bahamas.QB‑3, Albertina, Albertinaplatz
1, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 53 48 30, www.albertina.at.
Open 10:00-18:00, Wed, Fri 10:00-21:00.

UNTIL 06.10 » DORIT MARGREITER


A photographer and installation artist from right here
in beautiful Vienna, Dorit Margreiter bridges the worlds
between visual systems and spacial structures with
effortless grace, zeroing in on modern and contemporary
architecture along with forms of media representation,
a topical subject matter if ever there was one.
Margreiter’s solo show will see Mumok transformed into
a humongous artistic installation, one that delves deep
into modern society through its art, its technology, and
its everyday existence. QG‑3, Mumok, Museumsplatz 1,
MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 52 50 00, www.mumok.
at. Open 10:00-19:00, Mon 14:00-19:00, Thu 10:00-21:00.

UNTIL 03.11 » ULI AIGNER


Uli Aigner has been working with porcelain for a while now, Gelatin, Stinking Dawn, 2019
 © Gelatin, Courtesy Galerie Meyer Kainer, Wien
using it as a starting point to transform loss into a material
message about life and survival. His work will be on UNTIL 06.10 » GELATIN & LIAM GILLICK.
show at the Belvedere from April until November. QC‑4, STINKING DAWN
Belvedere, Prinz-Eugen-Str. 27, tel. +43 1 79 55 70, www. One of the most anticipated events of the
belvedere.at. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 21:00. MuseumsQuartier summer program, Stinking Dawn is an
installation like no other. This walk-in stage design is more
UNTIL 09.09 » CRITICAL CARE - than it seems, doubling up as a constantly evolving film
ARCHITECTURE FOR A BROKEN PLANET setting, where Gelatin and Liam Gillick will brave fate and
It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to understand that the planet find themselves shot in situ. The film plans on exploring the
isn’t in the best shape, and we may well be looking for a new limits of human tolerance in an intolerable environment,
planet to destroy soon. This fascinating exhibition takes an a world of political oppression where humans no longer
altogether more positive view on the future, exploring how understand the value of truth within themselves. That
urbanism and architecture can help create a sustainable might sound a little intense, but such is the future we
future for human life on Earth. QG‑3, Architekturzentrum find ourselves facing. Stinking Dawn promises to be an
Wien, Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 artistic and intellectual triumph. QB‑3, Kunsthalle Wien,
521 31 15 30, www.azw.at. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 521
89 33, www.kunsthallewien.at. Open 11:00-19:00, Thu
UNTIL 06.10 » UNCANNY VALUES 11:00-21:00.
We’re still a little scared of Artificial Intelligence, although
much of that might be born out of how insecure the world of UNTIL 06.10 » HYSTERICAL MINING
travel writing truly is. The question of AI is one that permeates What are the stereotypical gender roles within the world
everyday life and will continue to do so until the robots have of technology and machinery? Men, naturally in tune,
replaced us all and we’re left fighting Arnold Schwarzenegger women, somewhat fearful? Stereotypes are largely
for our clothes in dingy bars. All jokes aside, UNCANNY nonsense of course, but this fascinating exhibition at
VALUES is an exhibition that explores this most pertinent the Kunsthalle analyses the material worlds we have
and intriguing subject, discussing just what AI is right now created through technology. This is political, this is
and what it might become. This is a part of technology that intellectual, and it is also immensely aesthetically
is becoming increasingly human all the time, and education fascinating. One of 2019’s most interesting exhibitions,
is to be a vitally important part of our ability to accept this for sure.  QB‑3, Kunsthalle Wien, Museumsplatz
inevitable future.  QC‑2, Museum für Angewandte Kunst, 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 521 89 33,
Stubenring 5, MStubentor, tel. +43 1 712 80 00, www. www.kunsthallewien.at.
mak.at. Open 10:00-18:00, Tue 10:00-22:00. Closed Mon.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 11
Events
UNTIL 26.10 » VERTIGO 11.09 - 16.02 » STREET. LIFE. PHOTOGRAPHY
It seems a little strange to say, but the world of optical There are few more vibrant subjects of artistic
art remains somewhat ignored in artistic circles. Why inspiration than the basic everyday world, the people on
this is, we can’t say, as this is a form of creation that was the street, the ordinariness of existence. This stunning
specifically developed in order to sharpen our focus and exhibition will explore the evolution and development
awareness of how ambiguous aesthetics really are. That of street photography from the 1930s to the current
makes this exhibition at Mumok all the more fascinating, day, with more than 200 works from internationally
a collection of optical art and illusions that will challenge beloved photographers. QI‑2, Kunsthaus Wien, Untere
your senses and open your eyes to the fickle nature of Weißgerberstraße 13, MRadetzkyplatz, tel. +43 1
aesthetic understanding.  QG‑3, Mumok, Museumsplatz 712 04 91, www.kunsthauswien.com. Open 10:00-
1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 52 50 00, www. 18:00.
mumok.at. Open 10:00-19:00, Mon 14:00-19:00, Thu
10:00-21:00. 13.09 - 10.11 » ALEXANDRA BIRCKEN
A background in fashion might not seem like the obvious
UNTIL 06.10 » VIENNA BIENNALE FOR gateway into art, but the two have more similarities
CHANGE 2019 than first come to mind. Alexandra Bircken has always
What do we want the future to look like? Everyone has an focused her work on the human body, and her sculptures
idea, but creating reality from idea isn’t exactly the easiest explore that mysterious purgatory between the interior
thing in the world. We need to be idealistic, but we also and exterior. What lies between? Bircken brings various
need to be realistic. At this biennale, artists, designers, materials to the fore, juxtaposing the soft and the not
architects and more from all over the world will come so in search of some truly fascinating answers.  .QA‑3,
together to discuss, debate and explore whatever our Secession, Friedrichstrasse 12, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1
future should be, must be, has to be. QC‑2, Museum für 587 53 07, www.secession.at. Open 10:00-18:00. Closed
Angewandte Kunst, Stubenring 5, MStubentor, tel. +43 Mon.
1 712 80 00, www.mak.at. Open 10:00-18:00, Tue 10:00-
22:00. Closed Mon. 13.09 - 10.11 » TILLMAN KAISER
It might seem somewhat primitive by today’s technology-
UNTIL 20.10 » ARIK BRAUER - ALL OF MY obsessed standards, but the kaleidoscope was quite
ARTS the invention back in the day. Its simplicity should now
When Arik Brauer was asked how he found his way into be celebrated, and its influence in this exhibition from
the arts, he simply replied that he had ‘always been Tillman Kaiser is a delight in itself. Unique patterns,
a painter’. Brauer has more strings to his artistic bow vibrant colour, and just a little tinge of nostalgia. QA‑3,
however, the Vienna-native is a veritable multi-media Secession, Friedrichstrasse 12, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43
machine, and all of those strings get some shine at this 1 587 53 07, www.secession.at. Open 10:00-18:00.
exhibition. Brauer is the co-founder of the Vienna School Closed Mon.
of Fantastic Realism, which might just be the greatest
name for a school we’ve ever come across, and the hyper- 13.09 - 10.11 » KORAKRIT ARUNANONDCHAI
creative’s influence is clear for all to see. He also happens Originally from Bangkok, Korakrit Arunanondchai spends
to be the author of the world’s largest mural depicting most of his time split between his home town and his
Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden, found in a shopping adopted home of Brooklyn, creating stunning pieces
centre in Israel. This exhibition is a major celebration of of art along the way. All of those pieces come under
all things Arik Brauer — what better way to celebrate his living archive idea, a unique approach to creation
90 years of Arik Brauer?QB‑2, Jüdisches Museum that pays dividends on the visual front. Is it the future of
Wien (Jewish Museum Vienna), Dorotheergasse 11, artistic ideology? That remains to be seen, but his work
MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 53 50 43 13 10, www.jmw. demands attention.QA‑3, Secession, Friedrichstrasse 12,
at. Open 10:00-18:00. MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 587 53 07, www.secession.at.
Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon.
06.09 - 20.10 » WORLD PRESS PHOTO 19
Photojournalism has never been as important as it 19.09 - 06.01 » JOSEF IGNAZ MILDORFER
is today. In a world of half truths, agenda focus and To celebrate the 300th birthday of Josef Ignaz Mildorfer
straight out fiction the integrity of photography (he likely won’t be attending), the Belvedere will hold a
needs to stand up and make itself counted in the special show dedicated to the great Baroque painter. This
world. This exhibition showcases some of the best of will include his first ever monographic show, as well as a
the best from around the globe. There isn’t much joy deep dive into the three major aspects of his work — his
in the photos, but these are not joyous times. A very rare battle scenes, his work with the clergy, the bourgeoise
important exhibition.  QE‑3, Westlicht Museum, and the aristocracy, and his run as a professor at the Vienna
Westbahnstrasse 40, MBurgasse-Stadthalle, www. Academy of Arts. QC‑4, Belvedere, Prinz-Eugen-Str. 27,
westlicht.com. Open 14:00-19:00, Thu 14:00-21:00, tel. +43 1 79 55 70, www.belvedere.at. Open 10:00 -
Sat, Sun 11:00-19:00. Closed Mon. 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 21:00.
12 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Events

27.09 - 16.02 » HEIMRAD BÄCKER 27.09 - 20.01 » RICHARD GERSTL


Austrian publisher and writer Heimrad Bäcker passed away A portrait can tell a thousand facts, but the work of
in 2003, but it wasn’t until 2015 that his photography Austrian expressionist Richard Gerstl operates on a
collection was given to mumok as a gift. The collection different plane entirely. His life was intense one, and
of more than 14,000 snaps tell a myriad of stories, many that intensity shone through in the psychological
centred around the great man’s investigate work on intuitiveness of his portraits, each revealing
the Holocaust.   QG‑3, Mumok, Museumsplatz 1, previously hidden traits in the subject. Gerstl never
MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 52 50 00, www.mumok. received the acclaim he deserved in his lifetime,
at. Open 10:00-19:00, Mon 14:00-19:00, Thu 10:00-21:00. but people are slowly waking up to his talent and
importance. QG‑3, Leopold Museum, Museumsplatz
27.09 - 16.02 » ALFRED SCHMELLER 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 52 57 00, www.
Vienna’s artistic scene would not be the powerhouse it is leopoldmuseum.org. Open 10:00 – 18:00, Thu 10:00
today without the work of men like Alfred Schmeller, art - 21:00. Closed Tue.
historians tasked with restoring and reviving the artistic
scene at most difficult times. Schmeller’s career was 17.10 - 24.02 » COLD WAR AND
already long and storied by the time he took over 20er ARCHITECTURE
Haus (today’s mumok), and this exhibition will showcase Vienna might not be the first city that springs to
the great man’s most powerful creations. QG‑3, Mumok, mind when thinking about the Cold War, especially
Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 52 when talking about architecture, but the Austrian
50 00, www.mumok.at. Open 10:00-19:00, Mon 14:00- capital was impacted by 20th century geopolitics
19:00, Thu 10:00-21:00. more than you might presume. This exhibition is the
very first of its kind, shining a light on the post-war
building activities in Austria through the lens of the
Get the In Your Pocket international battle for ideological supremacy. QG‑3,
Architekturzentrum Wien, Museumsplatz 1,
City Essentials App MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 521 31 15 30, www.
azw.at. Open 10:00 - 19:00.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 13
Events
MUSICALS
22.09 - 31.10 » CATS
Cats is a musical about cats, don’t you know. One of the most
popular musicals on the planet, Cats has been doing the rounds
since 1981 and there is no end in sight for the feline festival. It
has even made it to the silver screen, although the trailer for
the official film received quite the backlash. No such worries on
the stage. QH‑2, Ronacher, Seilerstätte 9, MStephansplatz,
from € 49, www.musicalvienna.at. Closed Mon.

ROCK & POP CONCERTS


Machine Head © Barracuda Music 16.09 20:00 » LINDSEY STIRLING
Yes, that is a violin. Lindsey Stirling plays the violin like
18.10 - 22.02 » ANITA LEISZ no one you’ve ever seen before, imbuing the classical
Winning the Kapsch Contemporary Art Prize is no instrument with such life and energy that it ceases to
small deal. Anita Leisz is the 2019 winner of the prize, resemble a violin at all. No genre of music is safe from her
an award that showcases the best of the best when it audio attack, be it the classics or modern pop, and the
comes to young artists based in Austria. Minimalism is whole thing is presented in a truly unique way. The sky
the name of this game, art that defies categorisation really is the limit for this little American genius.QBank
and focuses instead on audience interpretation and Austria Gasometer Halle, Guglgasse 8, MGasometer, €
exterior influences.  QG‑3, Mumok, Museumsplatz 56, www.lindseystirling.com.
1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 52 50 00, www.
mumok.at. Open 10:00-19:00, Mon 14:00-19:00, Thu 16.09 19:30 » ALICE COOPER
10:00-21:00. He may be halfway through his 72nd year, but there
seems to be no stopping Alice Cooper. With a career that
now spans an incredible five decades, the shock rock doc
JAZZ & BLUES is a living icon of the genre, and the live show remains as
06.10 20:00 » WOLFGANG MUTHSPIEL exciting as it ever was. Expect fake blood, leather, snakes
LARGE ENSEMBLE FEAT. AMBROSE and all the rest. QWiener Stadthalle, Roland-Rainer-Platz
AKINMUSIRE 1, tel. +43 1 98100-200, € 54,9, www.alicecoper.com.
Wolfgang Muthspiel has been doing this since the middle
of the 1980s, playing jazz and contemporary classical 21.09 20:00 » MICHAEL BUBLÉ
music like only he (well, and his brother) can. American Canadian crooner Michael Bublé returns to Vienna on
jazz trumpeter Ambrose Akinmusire joins his Large September 21 for a show at the Stadthalle, bringing his
Ensemble for this run of shows.QC‑3, Konzerthaus, bag of ballads along with him. If you don’t know what
Lothringerstrasse 20, MStadtpark, tel. +43 1 24 20 02, € you’re going to get at a Michael Bublé show at this point
34,4, www.materialrecords.com. then it obviously isn’t for you, but if you’re into crooning,
key changes and earnestness, this should be a lot of
29.10 19:30 » JAN GARBAREK GROUP FEAT. fun. QWiener Stadthalle, Roland-Rainer-Platz 1, tel. +43
TRILOK GURTU 1 98100-200, € 78,9, www.michaelbuble.com.
Trilok Gurtu is a percussionist like no other, using anything
and everything that might resemble a drum to create 07.10 19:30 » CHER
truly unique soundscapes. The Jan Garbarek Group While we still refuse to believe that evergreen Cher is 73 years
is lucky to have the Indian legend on board for this old, all thoughts of age go out the window once the Goddess of
summer jaunt across the continent. QC‑3, Konzerthaus, Pop takes to the stage. She’ll be doing just that at the Stadthalle
Lothringerstrasse 20, MStadtpark, tel. +43 1 24 20 02, on October 7 as she presents the songs from her recent ABBA
www.trilokgurtu.com. tribute, so get your tickets ahead of time.QWiener Stadthalle,
Roland-Rainer-Platz 1, tel. +43 1 98100-200, € 79,4, www.
30.10 19:30 » HIROMI dancingqueen.warnerreprise.com.
Jazz is a lot of things to a lot of people, but we’ve not
come across many who give it as much energy and life as 10.10 19:30 » DAVID HASSELHOFF
Japanese composter Hirmoi Uehara. Hiromi brings together The Hoff! The most-watched man in the history of TV is also
a whole heap of genres to create something truly unique, an accomplished pop star, if that is the correct phrase, and he
and she’l be bringing that excitement to the Konzerthaus remains an icon of media all across the world. His career is just
this October.  QC‑3, Konzerthaus, Lothringerstrasse 20, about as storied as it gets, and seeing him on stage is still a true
MStadtpark, tel. +43 1 24 20 02, from € 35,4, www. joy. He plays Stadthalle on October 10. QWiener Stadthalle,
hiromiuehara.com. Roland-Rainer-Platz 1, tel. +43 1 98100-200, € 60,5.
14 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Events
16.10 20:00 » MACHINE HEAD
Few bands straddle the line between being legends and CINEMAS
still being relevant like Machine Head. The elder statesmen
of heavy metal continue to churn out the goods, although Unlike most other Europeans, Austrians prefer
the last couple of years have been a little more tumultuous their films dubbed into German rather than simply
than fans may have liked. Members have gone and subtitled. But if you’ve got a hankering for a night at
members have returned, but Rob Flynn remains the the movies while you’re here, several cinemas serve
constant in the veteran metallers. And of course, the ending up the latest Hollywood offerings in their original
of ‘Davidian’ remains as magnificent today as it did way back language. Keep in mind: seats are assigned and
in 1994.  QBank Austria Gasometer Halle, Guglgasse 8, usually vary in price depending on where they are in
MGasometer, € 40,9, www.machinehead1.com. the theatre.

20.10 20:00 » NEW MODEL ARMY ARTIS INTERNATIONAL


Bradford’s finest are approaching 40 years of rocking all Tucked into a tiny side street in the first district,
over the globe, which is something to be celebrated and this theatre offers 10 – 15 English language new
then some. New Model Army have seen plenty of line releases daily. Showtimes begin around 16:00,
up changes over the years but the heart of the band has Mondays through Wednesdays have reduced
remained the same, and their Arena Wien show in October admission, and a student ID will snag you a small
should be a banger.QArena Wien, Baumgasse 80, discount.QSchultergasse 5, MStephansplatz,
MErdberg, € 34,9, www.newmodelarmy.org. tel. +43 535 65 70, www.cineplexx.at. Tickets
€9,90 - €7,20.

HAYDN ENGLISH CINEMA


The four-screen Haydn cinema shows up to six
different movies per day, all in English and without
subtitles. Film fans planning a longer stay can
get reduced prices and other privileges with the
Super Saver Card.QF-3, Mariahilferstrasse 57,
MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 587 22 62, www.
haydnkino.at. Tickets €7-9.

SPORT
21.10 - 27.10 » ERSTE BANK OPEN 500
New Model Army © Barracuda Music Will Austrian superstar Dominic Thiem improve on his
disappointing 2018 showing by going all the way this year?
We can only hope so. Now ranked four in the world (at
SPECIAL EVENTS the time of writing), Thiem is the next cab off the rank in
07.10 - 09.10 » THE CHIPPENDALES international tennis but he needs to start putting together
The Chippendales! Celebrating their 40th anniversary, the trophies to prove it. A hometown win will certainly
the troupe of topless hunks and still doing their stuff, help. Kevin Anderson is the reigning champion. QWiener
keeping bow-tie companies in business and attracting Stadthalle, Roland-Rainer-Platz 1, tel. +43 1 98100-200,
the oversized undergarments of adoring fans worldwide. €31-€90, www.erstebank-open.com.
The group are actually named after the LA club that
gave them their start, which is a nice bit of trivia for
you.  QG‑3, MuseumsQuartier Wien, Museumsplatz 1,
MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 523 58 81, From € 41.

27.10 20:00 » BRUCE DICKINSON


What a life Bruce Dickinson has had. Born in
Nottinghamshire, the man started out singing in pub
bands before going on to front Iron Maiden, and well know
who Iron Maiden are. Along the way he has picked up a
pilot’s licence, brewed beer, written books, held his own in
fencing and lord knows what else. An Evening With Bruce
Dickinson is an exploration of his life with the man himself,
all wrapped up in that delightfully endearing British
charm.  QWiener Stadthalle, Roland-Rainer-Platz 1, tel.
+43 1 98100-200, € 44,9. Bruce Dickinson © Nidhal Marzouk

facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 15


City of Classical Music
Vienna has always been synonymous with music.
Some of the greatest musical figures in history lived and
worked in Vienna: Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Ludwig
van Beethoven, Joseph Haydn, Franz Schubert, Johann
Strauss, Gustav Mahler, Arnold Schönberg, Alban Berg
to name a few of them. Writing to his father in 1781,
Mozart said: “Vienna is the best place in the world for
my profession.” Because of the importance of these
musicians the tradition is maintained in Vienna by
regular concert events and festivals. Attractive concerts
are held every day of the year. But Vienna is also the
capital of the waltz. The Vienna Philharmonic’s New
Year’s Concert is the most famous classical concert in
the world. It takes place every year on 1 January at the
Musikverein and always ends with the Blue Danube
waltz by Johann Strauss Junior. Another fixed attraction
in Austrian musical life is the Vienna Boys Choir, one
of the oldest boys’ choirs in the world. For nearly five
hundred years they have been a symbol of Austria. And,
as ever, every Sunday the Vienna Boys’ Choir sing solemn
mass in Vienna’s Hofburg chapel, continuing a tradition
unbroken since 1498.

BALLET & DANCE


13.09, 14.09, 18.09, 20.09 19:30 » SYLVIA
A full length ballet in two or three acts, Sylvia is about as
classic as ballet gets. A great way to get into the art, the
French production first wowed audiences way back in
1876, although it wasn’t until it was revived in the 1950s
GET THE COMBINED TICKET AND SAVE € 6 that success came its way. QB‑3, Staatsoper, Opernring
2, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 514 44 22 50, € 12-151, www.

visiting mozart wiener-staatsoper.at.

CLASSICAL CONCERTS
20.09 19:30 » WIENER PHILHARMONIKER
Think classical music is all straight faces, high brows and
seriousness? Think again. In this work, Gustav Mahler dons
the fool’s cap and breaks down the art through irony and
humour, imbuing it with a life that we rarely get to see.
Stunning stuff.  QC‑3, Konzerthaus, Lothringerstrasse
20, MStadtpark, tel. +43 1 24 20 02, €41-128, www.
konzerthaus.at.

22.09 19:30 » PHILHARMONIC FIVE


You can’t beat a classical quintet, especially in the right
surroundings. The Philharmonic Five understands the
importance of tradition in classical music but isn’t afraid
1010 Vienna | Domgasse 5 to take a few risks along the way, creating something truly
www.mozarthausvienna.at exciting as a result. QC‑3, Konzerthaus, Lothringerstrasse
20, MStadtpark, tel. +43 1 24 20 02, € 24-60, www.
konzerthaus.at.

08.10 19:30 » ZAGREBER


PHILHARMONISCHES ORCHESTER
The history of the Zagreb Philharmonic stretches back
almost 150 years, with the Croatian capital’s orchestra
at the heart of promoting national music and heritage.
16 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
City of Classical Music
Zagreb and Vienna have a long history too, so expect this
show to be one great celebration of cultural collaboration 19.09, 22.09, 25.09 19:00 » IL TROVATORE
and friendship, complete with some immaculately An opera in four acts from the pen and mind of Giuseppe
performed tunes.QB‑3, Musikverein, Bösendorferstrasse Verdi, Il Trovatore tells the tale of the Spanish Civil War,
12, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 505 81 90, www.zgf.hr. from both sides. This isn’t all about ideological battles
though, of course there is romance at its heart, romance
09.10 19:30 » IGOR LEVIT tinged with tragedy, infanticide, murder, intrigue and
Did you know that Russian-German pianist Igor Levit first the rest. This is pretty intense, to say the least, but that’s
twinkled the ivories when he was just three years old? how we like our opera.  QB‑3, Staatsoper, Opernring
We can’t remember what we were doing at three, but 2, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 514 44 22 50, € 16-239,
learning the piano certainly wasn’t it. The international www.wiener-staatsoper.at.
award winning artist will play at the Musikverein in
October.  QB‑3, Musikverein, Bösendorferstrasse 12, 27.09, 01.10, 04.10 20:00 » SALOME
MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 505 81 90, www.igor-levit.de. Famous for its ‘Dance of the Seven Veils’, Salome is another
lively opera in the canon of Richard Strauss. This one focuses
12.10 19:30, 13.10 11:00 » WIENER on Salome, the beautiful princess and stepdaughter of King
SYMPHONIKER Herod II, and her desires for love and acceptance. Of course,
This month at the Symphoniker we have ‘Pictures there is a bit of murder and beheading and blood and
from Pagan Russia’, an exploration of the wilderness guts, this is opera after all.QB‑3, Staatsoper, Opernring
soundtracked by Stravinsky’s unique concoctions. A 2, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 514 44 22 50, € 14-206,
special performance from the mid of a special man.QC‑3, www.wiener-staatsoper.at.
Konzerthaus, Lothringerstrasse 20, MStadtpark, tel.
+43 1 24 20 02, € 20-79, www.konzerthaus.at. 29.09 19:00, 03.10 19:30, 07.10 19:30 » LA
BOHÈME
28.10 19:30 » TILL FELLNER An opera in four acts by Giacomo Puccini, La Bohème
Few instruments speak to the heart of a human being quite is the tale of love, life, death, illness, jealous and all that
like the piano. Lonely sonatas can resonate intensely with other good stuff that we’ve come to expect from any
people in a way that makes music the most important opera worth its salt.QB‑3, Staatsoper, Opernring
thing in the world, more important than love or life itself. 2, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 514 44 22 50, € 65-239,
Expect plenty of soul-searching, fragility and hope at Till www.wiener-staatsoper.at.
Fellner’s concert on October 28.  QC‑3, Konzerthaus,
Lothringerstrasse 20, MStadtpark, tel. +43 1 24 20 02, € 06.10 19:00, 08.10 19:30, 11.10 19:30 »
20-62, www.konzerthaus.at. ARIADNE AUF NAXOS
Ariadne auf Naxos (Ariadne on Naxos, if you were
wondering) is a peculiar little opera that really gets us
OPERA every time. At its heart is the battle between high and low
04.09, 07.09, 10.09 19:00 » LA TRAVIATA art, two ends of the creative spectrum, and the jostling
Performed in Italian (with English and German subtitles), between the two when it comes to public and prominent
La Traviata continues to swoon audiences all around the acceptance. This battle plays out through the genius
world. We first saw it on an early bout of traveling up in Riga lens of Richard Strauss.QB‑3, Staatsoper, Opernring
(Latvia), the first opera we saw abroad, so needless to say its 2, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 514 44 22 50, € 14-206,
swooning is very strong in our hearts. QB‑3, Staatsoper, www.wiener-staatsoper.at.
Opernring 2, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 514 44 22 50, € 16-
239, www.wiener-staatsoper.at. 12.10, 16.10 19:30 » MADAMA BUTTERFLY
Another piece of Puccini genius, Madama Butterfly is based
06.09 18:00, 09.09 18:30, 12.09 18:30 » DON on the Madame Butterfly short story and is one of the most
CARLO popular operas on the planet. Don’t expect a happy ending,
He may have been the most powerful monarch in the but do expect an entertaining show.QB‑3, Staatsoper,
world, but King Charles V didn’t have the easiest of rides. Opernring 2, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 514 44 22 50, € 15-
That explains the search for solitude and serenity in the 215, www.wiener-staatsoper.at.
monastery of San Yuste, a story told in this exquisite opera
by Verdi.  QB‑3, Staatsoper, Opernring 2, MKarlsplatz, 19.10 19:00, 24.10 19:30 » IL BARBIERE DI
tel. +43 1 514 44 22 50, € 88-239, www.wiener- SIVIGLIA
staatsoper.at. Also known as ‘The Useless Precaution’, Rossini’s
masterpiece is a true piece of genius when it comes
to comedy in opera.  QB‑3, Staatsoper, Opernring
Full calendar online: 2, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 514 44 22 50, € 15-215,
vienna.inyourpocket.com www.wiener-staatsoper.at.

facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 17


Coffeehouses

Café Diglas | © WienTourismus, Christian Stemper

Vienna is one of those cities where coffee is much bring additional water unrequested, with the idea being
more than just a drink. Many coffee houses in Vienna date that you are a guest who should feel welcome and not
back to the 19th century, when there was little private pressured to leave. Many cafés provide small food dishes
heating, and people used the coffee houses as a second like sausages as well as desserts, cakes and tarts, like
living room, because they could not afford to heat their Apfelstrudel and Linzer Torte. In many classic cafés piano
homes.Unlike some other café traditions around the music is played in the evenings and social events like
world, it is completely normal for a customer to linger literary readings are held.
alone for hours and study the omnipresent newspapers.
Along with coffee, the waiter will serve an obligatory
glass of cold tap water and during a long stay will often VIENNESE COFFEEHOUSES
CAFÉ CENTRAL
Originally opened in 1876, Café Central boasts a number
COFFEE MENU DECODER of famous regulars over the years, including Leo Trotsky,
Adolf Loos, Vladimir Lenin and Sigmund Freud. The café,
If you order just a coffee in Vienna, don’t be surprised restored in 1986, is reminiscent of both the intellectuals
when the waiter continues to stare at you... he’s who frequented the café and the imperial grandeur of
waiting for you to be more specific than that. Below Austria. Café Central is perfectly situated behind the
a selection of the most popular variations of coffee Hofburg, making it an ideal place to stop for a delicious
served. Most prominent are the Melange or a large and piece of Apfelstrudel and rich hot chocolate after you’ve
small Brauner. Most cafes will also serve you popular spent hours wandering through the nearby twin museums
international choices such as cappucino or café latte. and the Imperial Palace. Reservations recommended for
Brauner Large or small black coffee with milk added groups (tel: +43 1 533 37 63 61)QA‑2, Herrengasse 14,
for getting its brown colour MHerrengasse, tel. +43 1 533 37 63 24/+43 1 533 37
Espresso Large or small black coffee from the Espresso- 63 61, www.cafecentral.wien. Open 07:30 - 22:00, Sun
machine 10:00 - 22:00.
Einspänner Double espresso with whipped cream
CAFE DIGLAS
Mokka Large or small black coffee in a large or small All of the heavenly cakes at this century-old café are
mocha-cup baked in-house, and you can even observe the process
Melange Large cup of coffee with hot milk foam on a large monitor just above the counter. Order your
Kaisermelange Large mocha without milk, but stirred coffee, pick a cake of your choice at the counter, and
with an egg yolk, honey, cognac or brandy be sure to memorize its funny name so you could spell
Kapuziner Small mocha with some drops of cream it out to the waiter in flawless Viennese when ordering.
Service can be slow, but after all, it’s contemplating and
18 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Coffeehouses
lingering over sweet treats that people come here for. and social differences in the artistic and military/public
QB‑2, Wollzeile 10, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 sectors. The pool tables also set Café Sperl apart from other
57 650, www.diglas.at. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 coffeehouses, and the cakes are to die for. The café also has
- 19:00. an extensive international newspaper selection.QG‑3,
Gumpendorferstr. 11, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1
CAFÉ HAWELKA 586 41 58, www.cafesperl.at. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun
This is a real legend. Multiple books and hundreds 11:00 - 20:00.
of articles have been written about this classic café
and generations of artists and authors have made DEMEL
this smoky den their home. Make sure to visit during Located in the upscale Kohlmarkt shopping street and just
the week, on weekends larger tourist groups spoil behind the Hofburg, Demel was once the Imperial and Royal
the unique atmosphere.QB‑2, Dorotheergasse 6, Court Bakery. Since the fall of the Austrian empire, Demel has
MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 82 30, www.hawelka. continued to produce world-class baked goods, and is a must-
at. Open 08:00 - 02:00. see for anyone with a sweet tooth. Despite its prominence,
the prices are not too bad, so no excuses; enjoy the sweets
CAFÉ LANDTMANN and the regal décor, and poke around the museum beneath
Located in the heart of Vienna, this café has a definite the main part of the store for a glimpse into its imperial
advantage over the other coffeehouses in the winter: history.QB‑2, Kohlmarkt 14, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1
despite the cold, you can still sit “outside” on the heated 53 51 71 70, www.demel.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00.
glass veranda, which looks out to the Burgtheater and
the neo-classical Rathaus (town hall), seat of the city’s
government. The café specializes in seasonal and Austrian CAFÉS
deserts, and the excellent brews will remind you why CUADRO
Vienna is so well known for its coffee. The waiting staff has A hip café with the culinary offerings of an American diner,
retained many typical aspects of Vienna’s coffee culture, so Cuadro occupies one of the corners of the Schloßquadrat,
beware the Wiener Schmäh, it just might put a big smile a historic complex with sunny interior courtyard in Vienna’s
on your face.QA‑1, Universitätsring 4, MSchottentor, fifth district. With friendly staff, breakfast served until
tel. +43 1 24 10 01 10, www.landtmann.at. Open 07:30 16:00, a savoury house coffee roast, happy hour specials,
- 24:00. free wifi and comfortable, modern design, Cuadro is ideal
for both casual dates and hangover breakfasts.QG‑4,
CAFÉ PRÜCKEL Margaretenstrasse 77, MPilgramgasse, tel. +43 1 544
An exemplary, U-shaped Ringstrasse café in stunning 75 50, www.schlossquadr.at. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun
Jugendstil design that pampers its guests with a relaxed 09:00 - 23:00.
environment. It’s flawlessly designed to let you sink into
a book or have an intimate conversation with friends. PHIL
The café also organises a bevy of concerts, readings and Phil is one of those places you can’t put into any
other events in other sections of the U, ensuring that its conventional category even though you like it from the first
clientele always has sufficient stimulating entertainment moment. All you need to know is that it’s a cool café-cum-
while simultaneously maintaining the chill atmosphere bookshop where you can browse some books while having
for its more introverted guests.QC‑2, Stubenring 24, your coffee or a quick lunch. It’s also a nice place to meet
MStubentor, tel. +43 1 512 61 15, www.prueckel.at. friends - even if you stay the whole day, they sure won’t kick
Open 08:30 – 22:00. you out. Oh, and you can even buy vintage furniture here.
You got it right - the furniture you are sitting on!QA‑3,
CAFÉ SACHER Gumpendorferstrasse 10-12, MMuseumsquartier, tel.
Hotel Sacher is widely known for providing the scenery +43 1 581 04 89, www.phil.info. Open 09:00 - 01:00,
for much of The Third Man and, more importantly, for its Mon 17:00 - 01:00.
famous Original Sacher-Torte chocolate cake. The hotel’s
red clad doormen will usher you into the crisp, classic café, SUPERSENSE
where you can enjoy a fresh slice. True, you can get so- An elongated space in a neogothic building houses Supersense,
called Sacher Torten at other cafés around town, but there’s an exciting cafe and concept store with a difference. Apart
nothing like tasting the original in its noble home.QB‑3, from serving quality coffee from a ‘Slayer’ machine and tasty
Philharmonikerstr. 4, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 51 45 60, cake and snacks, Supersense is furnished with special tables,
www.sacher.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. chairs and lamps, and a bar made from classic American
cabinets. Then there’s a wide range of products relating to
CAFÉ SPERL analogue photography (cameras, film, special digital-to-film
Café Sperl first opened in 1880 and has been a hit amongst printing services and workshops) and other analogue themes.
the locals ever since. It became the preferred stomping QPraterstr. 70, MPraterstern, tel. +43 1 969 08 32, www.
grounds for many singers, artists, writers, architects, the.supersense.com. Open Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 09:30 - 19:00,
generals and public officials, despite the usual political Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 19
Restaurants

Tre Ristorante | © tre-ristorante.at

Vienna’s cosmopolitan character is reflected by a great FIGLS


range of fine international restaurants. No matter if you are There is something irrepressibly classy about Figls, a
looking for an exclusive restaurant in the first district or you want modern beer house and restaurant in stylish Grinzing.
to stop by at one of the authentic Asian eateries - Vienna offers Viennese classics are at their finest here in sumptuous
something for every taste. And the good news: compared to surroundings, and the whole experience is washed down
other European cities typical tourist traps are relatively rare. with crisp beer from a fantastic beer list. Culture, tradition,
quality, taste, in one marvellous spot.QGrinzingerstrasse
55, tel. +43 1 320 42 57, www.figls.at/de/. Open 11:30-
AUSTRIAN 00:00.
Viennese cuisine stands out for its superb cakes and
pastries, but a wide range of other unique dishes, like LUGECK
Wiener Schnitzel and Tafelspitz are also steeped in local Enjoy an urban interpretation of the traditional Viennese
history. The cooking tradition here has been inspired by Wirtshaus,  or tavern, in a fantastic old building on a
many cultures throughout the centuries. During the 17th charming square in central Vienna. Besides the classic
and 18th centuries, Italian and French cuisine made their Wiener Schnitzel, traditional Austrian recipes have been
way into the Viennese palate, followed by strong Bohemian given a modern twist and are accompanied by excellent
and Hungarian influences in the 19th century, creating a regional wines, craft beers and handmade organic sodas.
local cuisine both unique and delicious. QB‑2, Lugeck 4, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 50 60,
www.lugeck.com. Open 11:30-24:00.
BEIM CZAAK
A place that knows its Austrian dishes, Beim Czaak has been PALMENHAUS
a family business since 1928 and the attention to detail and Once a greenhouse, this magnificent Art Nouveau building
tradition is evident from the moment you walk in. If you are now houses one of Vienna’s most beloved, legendary
planning on dining in this authentically rustic and relaxed cafés and restaurants. Enjoy an exciting selection of wines
restaurant, make a reservation before you go.QH‑2, (many available by the glass) and delicious food, either
Postgasse 15, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 513 72 15, outside with a view of the Burggarten or inside below the
www.czaak.com. Open 11:00-24:00; closed Sun. G brilliant high ceilings. Open from mid-morning you can
take a late breakfast here as well as lunch and dinner, and
the food places real emphasis on healthy, organic eating.
Get the In Your Pocket Exotic plants of many descriptions provide a connection
to the building’s past.QA‑2, Burggarten 1, MKarlsplatz
City Essentials App + Burgring, tel. +43 1 533 10 33, www.palmenhaus.at.
Open 10:00-24:00; Sun 09:00-23:00; Sat 09:00-24:00.
20 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
PLACHUTTA
Though particularly famous for its beef dishes, AUSTRIAN SPECIALITIES
Plachutta has become a bastion for a range of Apfelstrudel apple-filled pastry
traditional Viennese food. Forgoing current culinary Beuschel a ragout containing veal lungs
trends, the chefs here focus on the simple, customary and heart
dishes of this former imperial capital - particularly their Butterschnitzel chopped veal cutlet
famous Tafelspitz (boiled high-quality beef ). While Eiernockerln egg dumplings
the food is deliciously simple, the prices are on the Frankfurter, different kinds of sausages
expensive side.QC‑2, Wollzeile 38, MStubentor, tel. Käsekrainer,
+43 1 512 15 77, www.plachutta.at. Open 11:30- Debreziner,
24:00. A­P­G­T Burenwurst
Gebackene Leber deepfried pork or calf's liver
REINTHALERS BEISL Germknödel yeast dumpling
Typical Austrian food at relatively low prices. The wait Gulasch a hotpot similar to Hungarian
staff is friendly, though at times stressed with all of the pörkölt
clientele, but don’t let that distract you from the above Kaiserschmarrn sugared pancake with stewed
average food served here.QB‑2, Dorotheergasse plums
2-4, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 513 12 49, www. Marillenknödel apricot dumplings
reinthalersbeisl.stadtausstellung.at. Open 11:00-23:00. Palatschinken Viennese crępes
G Powidl stewed plum jam
Rindsuppen beef soup
RESTAURANT STEFANIE Sachertorte a chocolate cake
Fine dining in truly charming Viennese atmosphere. Schinkenfleckerl pasta with ham
The restaurant impresses with seasonal delicacies Schweinsbraten roast pork
and Viennese classics cooked to perfection. Try the Selchfleisch smoked meat
seven-course ‘taste of imperial Vienna’ menu for Tafelspitz boiled beef, often served with
an excellent introduction to local gourmet cuisine. apple and horseradish sauces
The elegant ballroom with high ceilings, massive Topfenstrudel strudel filled with cottage
chandeliers and classic decoration confirm this is cheese
Viennese history the culinary way.QC‑1, Taborstrasse Wiener Schnitzel breadcrumbed and fried veal
12, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 21150423, www. cutlet
restaurant-stefanie.at. Open 12:00-14:30,18:00- Zwiebelrostbraten onion roast beef
22:00; Sun, Sat 18:00-22:00. Also open for Sunday
brunch Oct-May. P­T­B­W

SILBERWIRT
The Silberwirt inn has been serving schnitzels, pub food,
snacks and Margaretner beer for over 200 years, earning it
the coveted title of “beisl”, a traditional Viennese restaurant.
Despite its age, it’s as lively as ever with students, office
workers, artists and tourists piling in to try the affordable
food and drinks. In summer the garden is an excellent
place to recover from a day in townQSchloßgasse 21,
MPilgramgasse, tel. +43 1 544 49 07, www.silberwirt.
at. Open 12:00-24:00. A­G We’ll take two, please… © Österreich Werbung/Wiesenhofer

WIENER WIRTSCHAFT
Rustic and genuine are the guiding themes of
the typical inn Wiener Wirtschaft. At this tavern a SYMBOL KEY
wide range of rustic Viennese dishes awaits your
taste buds. Besides classics like Wiener Schnitzel T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
or goulash, creative seasonal interpretations of I Fireplace E Live music
the local cuisine can also be found on the menu.
Kitchen until 22:00.QA‑4, Wiedner Hauptstrasse O Casino M Nearest metro station
27-29, MTaubstummengasse, tel. +43 1 22 11 13 B Outside seating G Non-smoking areas
64, www.wienerwirtschaft.com. Mon - Sat 11:30 -
S Take away R Internet W Wi-Fi
23:00, Sun 11:30 - 15:00. Kitchen open Mon - Sat
11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed July 29 – August 6 Animal friendly L Guarded parking
26, 2018. G­T ­B ­6 ­W
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 21
Restaurants
ZUM WEISSEN RAUCHFANGKEHRER atmosphere and convivial charm. There’s no point offering
One of the oldest and most renowned restaurants in big portions of nonsense of course, and the food at TGI
town, the ‘white chimney-sweep’ was founded in 1848 as Fridays is consistently excellent. Add a keen understanding
one of the guild pubs of the old Vienna chimneysweeps. of value, great cocktails and some of the friendliest staff
The typical atmosphere originates from the 1920s when going, not to mention some of the finest flair bartending
actors, singers, painter and sculptors discovered it. The in Vienna, and you’ll see just why TGIs has become a
restaurant serves classic Viennese kitchen, with Tafelspitz, staple of modern day dining.  QB‑3, Schubertring 13,
Szegediner Gulasch, paprika chicken and Kalbsvogerln. MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 714 89 95, www.tgifridays.at.
QB‑2, Weihburggasse 4, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 Open 12:00-24:00. A­G
1 512 34 71, www.weisser-rauchfangkehrer.at. Open
12:00-24:00. G WEINSCHENKE
In the old Shultz bar, there are now burgers: 9 burgers
(with meat, vegetarian and vegan), 12 sauces, all
AMERICAN homemade (meat from Hödl is minced daily, bread is
BURGER BROS baked according to own recipes by Frühbauer, the fries are
There are three of these great burger bars in Vienna, and made of bio-dumplings from the Lobau); Salads (eg with
they are well worth seeking out. The venues are modern smoked salmon or goat’s cheese).  QSiebensterngasse
and contemporary and the burgers themselves are fresh, 31/3, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 1 595353020, www.
handmade from the finest ground beef (there are chicken weinschenke-wien.com. Open 11:00-02:00.
and veggie options too). You can also feast on some superb
ribs, hot-dogs and top salads. It’s a little bit of America in
Vienna, and a cut above just about every other burger joint ASIAN
in the city.QSeitenstettengasse 1–3, MSchwedenplatz, DOTS
www.burgerbros.at. Open 17:00-00:00; closed Sun, Mon. This experimental sushi restaurant is a great place to grab
a bite after a shopping spree. The ambience, like the food,
EL GAUCHO is experimental, but the combination of lamps, lighting
Delicious steaks, soups and specials, served in a cosy, and tables leaves a satisfying taste in your mouth, as does
modern restaurant. Apart from the classic Black Angus the fresh fish. We recommend moving over to the similarly
rumpsteaks, ribeye and surf & turf, there’s lobster, chicken decorated bar after dinner to continue the experience.
curry and lambchops to savour. A good selection of sides, QF‑3, Mariahilferstrasse 103, MZieglergasse, tel. +43
sauces and salads rounds off the menu - and should 1 920 99 80, www.dots-lounge.com. Open 11:00-24:00;
guarantee a great lunch or dinner. Kitchen open until 23:00. Sun 17:00-24:00.
QC‑1, Praterstr. 1, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 212 12
10, www.elgaucho.at. Open 11:30-01:00; closed Sun. MAMA LIU & SONS
Mama Liu & Sons speciality is the hotpot, or Chinese
RIBS OF VIENNA fondue. Choose a soup and receive endless seafood, meats
Sometimes that primal urge to grab your food and sink and veggies to toss in. The simple and modern décor makes
your teeth in takes hold, and you just have to abandon this a fun place to try something a bit different than the
the fork and the knife. Housed in a cellar dating from the usual Chinese, at a price that doesn’t break the bank.QG‑3,
16th century, the orange and white clad staff will serve Gumpendorferstr. 29, MKettenbrückengasse, tel. +43 1
a steaming heap of ribs. The restaurant´s speciality is a 586 36 73, www.mamaliuandsons.at. Open 17:00-24:00.
metre of ribs, but they also have excellent salads.QB‑2,
Weihburggasse 22, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 513 85 ON
19, www.ribsofvienna.at. Open 17:00-24:00. P­G A fascinating blend between contemporary Chinese cuisine
and ultra-stylish interior, this popular restaurant is owned by
STEAKPOINT famed Austrian TV chef Simon Xie Hong, and it has become
The Viennese make a lot of great food, but they are not the go-to place for young professionals. The menu is
well known for their steaks - enter Steakpoint. Filet, rib dominated by fish, seafood and vegetarian dishes although
eye, T-bone, prime rib: you name it, they’ve got it, and traditional Chinese duck, chicken and lamb are also on
will make your steak exactly how you want it. The décor offer. Excellent Austrian wine selection. The less expensive
is reminiscent of an upscale roadhouse restaurant.QB‑3, daily menu is served until 18:00.QA‑4, Wehrgasse 8,
Akademiestrasse 2, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 513 80 40, MKettenbrückengasse, tel. +43 1 585 49 00, www.
www.members.aon.at/steakpoint. Open 11:00-24:00; restaurant-on.at. Open 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:30.
Sun 17:00-24:00. A­G

TGI FRIDAYS Get the In Your Pocket


You can’t really beat a good TGI Fridays. The American
restaurant chain has become a major favourite all over City Essentials App
Europe, as much because of its huge portions as its casual
22 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
PARTY LIKE IT'S FRIDAY Restaurants

EVERY DAY OF THE WEEK


since 1965

RIBS. BURGERS. VEGGIE. COCKTAILS.


BUT MOST OF ALL
DELICIOUS. FUN. SOCIAL. FLAIR.

TGI Fridays Vienna


Schubertring 13 / 1010 Wien
+43 (1) 714 8995
facebook.com/InYourPocket office@tgifridays.at September – October 2019 23
Restaurants
BALKAN
BEOGRAD
Gumpendorfer Str. 9, Beograd has been serving Serbian food in this up-and-
1060 Vienna coming part of town for the past 50 years, and is one of
tel. +43 1 5854988 the contributing factors to the area becoming an in-spot in
www.shanghaitan.at
Vienna. The décor is rustic, and the nightly live music adds
Mon-Sat 18:00 - 01:00
reservierung@shanghaitan.at to the ambience. The specialities are prepared on a charcoal
grill.QG‑3, Schikanedergasse 7, MKettenbrückengasse,
tel. +43 1 587 74 44, www.restaurant-beograd.at. Open
11:30–02:00; closed Wed.

FINE DINING
BRISTOL LOUNGE
Recent renovations have revealed the fabulous original Art
Deco decoration of the room that’s home to the new restaurant
in the legendary 12-decade-old Hotel Bristol. Excellent
breakfast, lunch and dinner meals are served in these grand
surroundings. The 5-course ‘Meistermenü’ is the definitive
highlight; guests can compose their own dinner from
several seasonal and regional options.QKärntner Ring 1,
MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 51 51 60, www.bristolvienna.com.
Open 07:30-24:00. A­P­G­L­J­K­i

DAS SCHICK
Austria and Spain share a common history and enjoy a special
relationship. You can experience delicious Mediterranean
specialities barely known outside Spain, exquisite service
and breathtaking views of the Austrian capital at the new
RA’MIEN Das Schick restaurant. The restaurant that presents the best
There are many restaurants that serve decent Asian cuisine, treats of both cuisines is acclaimed by the Gault & Millau,
but few match Ra’miens combination of excellent dishes (try A la Carte and Falstaff restaurant guides.QC‑2, Parkring
the home-made noodle soup) and reasonable prices. In the 12, MStubentor, tel. +43 1 51480417, www.das-schick.
evenings, the emphasis is on Thai dishes. Ra’mien is a great at. Mon - Fri 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22.30, Sat & Sun 18:00
place to hang out with friends, and as a local favourite, you’ll - 22.30. July & August 18:00 - 22.30. Kitchen open until
also have a chance to chat with the locals. Afterwards head 14:30, evenings until 22:00. A­P­G­W
downstairs for cocktails and dancing (see Clubs).QG‑3,
Gumpendorferstr. 9, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 585
47 98, www.ramien.at. Open 11:00-24:00; closed Mon.

SHANGHAI TAN
The first thing you notice is the light. The hanging red
ornamental lamps provide an atmosphere of intimacy that
most restaurants can only dream of, creating an aura that
engages from the get-go. The menu covers kilometres of
Asian cuisine done properly, from faultless Japanese sushi
through to excellent Chinese and Vietnamese options. There
are also a good number of vegetarian and vegan dishes
available. For a true taste of the Orient in an environment Das Schick © Schick Hotels
that backs that up and then some, Shanghai Tan is the place
to go.QA‑3, Gumpendorferstr. 9, MMuseumsquartier, DO & CO
tel. +43 1 585 49 88, www.shanghaitan.at. Open 18:00- If you flew into town with Austrian Airlines, then you are
01:00; closed Sun. A­G­T already familiar with the first-class catering that Do & Co offers.
Pop in to enjoy the immaculate design, the beautiful view of
St. Stephen’s Cathedral, and chic food. Just know that portions
More restaurant reviews online: are small and you shouldn’t arrive with a big appetite.QB‑2,
vienna.inyourpocket.com Stephansplatz 12, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 535 39 69,
www.doco.com. Open 12:00-15:00;18:00-24:00. A­P­G
24 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
STEIRERECK
A fancy restaurant with typical Austrian cuisine, Steiereck CHEF INTERVIEW
can be found surrounded by greenery of the Stadtpark
and has numerous delicious delicacies. Choose from a What first inspired you to
menu with five and six course meals, and an optional become a chef?
assortment of paired wines served with the courses.QC‑3, The feeling of freedom,
Am Heumarkt 2a, MStadtpark, tel. +43 1 713 31 68, creating new experiences
www.steirereck.at. Open 11:30-14:30; 18:30-24:00; for guests.
closed Sun, Sat. A­P­G­B
How long have you
ZUM SCHWARZEN KAMEEL worked at Das Schick?
Venture into this exquisite restaurant and bar, and you Since January 1, this year.
could see your picture in the local tabloids the next day.
The ‘Black Camel’ has been the place for Vienna’s rich and What is your philosophy
© Schick Hotels
famous to be seen ever since it opened in 1618, and even in the kitchen?
today it’s the official caterer to the Austrian president. Watch I try to combine the main product with two others
the well-dressed beau-monde enjoy a refined conversation in order to get the best out of it, as well as finding
over a glass of wine at the bar, and make sure to check out different ways of presenting it.
the posh deli and pastry shops just a few steps down the
street.QB‑2, Bognergasse 5, MHerrengasse, tel. +43 How do you develop new dishes? Where does the
1 533 81 25, www.kameel.at. Open 12:00-15:30;18:00- inspiration come from?
24:00; closed Sun. Bar open from 09:00. Inspiration largely comes from nature and the products
we have to work with. We are always trying different
combinations until we are sure that a dish represents
FRENCH our “taste”, and then we put it on the menu.
BEAULIEU
Hidden in a luxury shopping arcade, this authentic How has the culinary scene in Vienna changed in
French bistro has earned praises by Vienna’s French expat recent years?
community and food aficionados. The usual suspects, People are now more open minded, thanks to the
such as delicious salads, baguettes, quiches, scrupulously internet and travelling, and they are more free to taste
prepared mains as well as lavish desserts and an impressive different dishes. The quality of restaurants and the
wine list are served by French-speaking staff. And in case expectations of the guests is increasing every year.
you long for more French fare to take home, there’s a deli
selling cheese, chocolate, wine and many other things. Can you describe Austrian cuisine in five words?
Reservations recommended.QHerrengasse 14/18, Traditional, tasteful, regional, alternately, different.
Ferstel Passage, MHerrengasse, tel. +43 1 532 11 03,
www.beaulieu-wien.at. Open 10:00-23:00; closed Sun. What makes dining at Das Schick a unique
A­G experience?
Spending time in an elegant restaurant with surprising
LE BOL dishes and wine selection combined with the best
This small restaurant is a must for anyone who enjoys view of Vienna.
French food, whether you need a good start in the
morning or a tasty lunch. The baguettes in particular What are three Austrian dishes that every visitor
should not be missed: our favourite is the Joan de Florette, to Vienna should try?
but you will be satisfied with any of their options. Le Bol is Viennese Schnitzel, Tafelspitz, Kaiserschmarren, (or
always full, so make a reservation.QB‑2, Neuer Markt 14, Roasted liver with apple)
MStephansplatz, tel. +43 699 103 018 99, www.lebol.
at. Open 08:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-24:00. Any favourite late night snacks or fast food joints?
A beer with a sausage from any traditional sausage
stand in Vienna.
HUNGARIAN
ILONA STUEBERL How do you like to spend your days off in Vienna?
Maria Fodor, the owner since 1987, takes pride in serving Any tips for our readers?
the best gulyas this side of the border. The chicken paprikas With my wife and my children, maybe combining a day
is also delicious. Be sure to leave some space for heavenly in nature with a visit to a traditional wine tavern.
somlói galuska, a layered chocolate and vanilla sponge cake
with raisins, walnuts and rum. Note that smoking is allowed Gerasimos Kavalieris
here.QB‑2, Bräunerstrasse 2, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 Chef at Restaurant “Das Schick” (p.24)
533 90 29, www.ilonastueberl.at. Open 11:30-23:00.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 25
Restaurants
products using traditional preservation methods and stores
GASTROBARS them for pickling on the restaurant’s own shelving units:  a
There’s no good English term for Viennese Bierlokale; these variety of homemade juices, syrups, compotes, preserved
are casual restaurants that offer a good range of beers and lemons and pickles can be found here. Much of it is harvested
drinks as well as quality food. from the wild. Our pick of the menu is the beef tartar from
Austrian veal (Hödl) with brûléed egg yolk, mustard leaf and
BRASSERIE STADTBODEN redvein dock, dandelion-dijon creme, slices of yellow-gold salt-
Near the Opera, the Stadtboden restaurant and pub is a great buttered toast from the in-house bakery. Prices are amazing
spot for Austrian and international cuisine, including late given the superb location. Long evenings in the garden
breakfasts, Flammkuchen pies, sausages, steak and burgers. here are Vienna musts!QB‑3, Treitlstrasse 2, MKarlsplatz,
The Art Deco style room is centred around an elegant bar tel. +43 1 8900590, www.heuer-amkarlsplatz.com. Open
which has a variety of local Ottakringer beer on tap. Drop by 11:00-02:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-02:00.
on Thursdays for live DJ music; important football matches
and other sports events are beamed onto screens.QB‑3, MEDUSA
Krugerstraße 8, tel. +43 1 512 16 37, www.stadtboden.at. Opened by entrepreneurs from neighbouring Slovakia,
Open 10:00-24:00; closed Sun. A­J­W­K this chic establishment offers mouthwatering international
dishes that are pleasing both to the eyes and to the palate.
Enjoy imaginative appetizers such as tuna fish with papaya
INTERNATIONAL cashew salad or innovative mains, such as flank-steak with
ALBERTINA PASSAGE DINNER CLUB truffle potatoes. There are also wonderfully mixed cocktails,
A 1960s pedestrian tunnel has been transformed into and from October you can dance the night away in the
a club that - inspired by Pulp Fiction’s Jack Rabbit Slims new club.QNeuer Markt 8, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 67 66
Twist Contest - has a stage surrounded by tables so that 05 72 86, www.medusarestaurant.at. Open 10:00-23:30.
you can dine and dance the night away. Hidden deeper A­G­B­J
in the club are a cigar lounge and smokers’ bar. There’s
excellent international food, unusual cocktails, groovy live MOTTO AM FLUSS
music and the sound of trams rumbling overhead.QA/B‑3, All aboard Vienna’s top spot to see and be seen. You can
Opernring corner Operngasse, tel. +43 1 512 08 13, spend all day sipping fresh coffee, trying the delicious
www.albertinapassage.at. Open Thu-Sat 18:00 - 04:00, baked goods or devouring the tantalizing meals on
from Sept also on Tue, Wed. the menu. What’s more, the DJ line up keeps the party
hopping long into the night. An excellent place for chill
DAS KOLIN cats and party goers alike.QC‑1, Franz Josefs Kai 2,
Lovely cafe and restaurant serving a wide range of great MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 252 55 10, www.motto.at/
food at prices which, given the excellent central location, mottoamfluss. Open 08:00-02:00.
are more than reasonable. The interior is contemporary
without overdoing it, and there’s an elegant street terrace PARLOR
in good weather. The menu (which also offers one of the The restaurant at the Vienna InterContinental uses the
best breakfast menus in all Vienna) is based around Modern motto ‘classic with a twist’ for its styling, breakfasts and
European cuisine and includes a regularly changing list of dinners – and there’s much to be enjoyed in this brightly
seasonal specials alongside staples such as the legendary coloured space. Viennese and Austrian options are
Kolin burger.QG‑1, Kolingasse 5, MSchottentor, tel. matched with international dishes from around the world
+43 1 8900 221, www.daskolin.at/. Open 11:00-24:00; and the breakfast buffet (open for non-guests too) has
Sat 09:00-24:00; closed Sun. P­B­S­W­i more than you’d expect – including Japanese snacks and
excellent teas. Don’t hesitate to bring the kids as well –
DAS LOFT
On the 18th floor of the Sofitel Vienna Stephansdom, the
glass-walled Restaurant & Bar Das LOFT offers amazing
360° views over the city. German chef Fabian Günzel cooks
up modern, cosmopolitan dishes inspired by tastes from
across the world, but rooted in regional ingredients. Visit
at weekends to see the DJs in action!QC‑1, Praterstrasse
1, MM Schwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 90 616 8110, www.
dasloftwien.at/. Open 18:00-22:30. P

HEUER
This place, in the very heart of Vienna, sources all of its
ingredients from  over thirty different small farmers and
specialists, thereby supporting the region and ensuring
quality.  Chef Peter Fallnbugl works with carefully chosen Parlor © InterContinental Wien

26 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants
Parlor has a joyous children’s menu.QC‑3, Johannesgasse
28, MStadtpark, tel. +43 1 71 12 21 10, www.vienna.
intercontinental.com/gastronomie. Open 17:30-23:00.

SCHLOSSQUADRAT
Four venues in one in historic Alt-Margareten. Each offers
something special; Cuadro is a relaxed café with a great
breakfast; Margareta is an inviting Italian trattoria that offers
delicious pizza; Silberwirt has been serving Viennese cuisine
for more than 200 years and knows its craft; and Gergely’s is an
upmarket restaurant. All four also have beautiful courtyards.
QG‑4, Margaretenplatz 2, MPilgramgasse, tel. +43 1 544
49 07, www.schlossquadr.at. Open 08:00-24:00. B

SPEAR
Popular among the young and elegant neighborhood
crowd, this small and stylish establishment features a state-
of-the-art interior that matches its contemporary cuisine
concept. Chef Dan Vainberg skillfully concocts the house
specialty dishes: small pieces of meat, fish or vegetables
served on a skewer and sticky rice burger. Great cocktails
are served in the bar until late.QF‑3, Neubaugasse 15,
MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 67 67 11 86 71, www.spear.at.
Open 15:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-24:00.

ITALIAN
DA CAPO
Da Capo spoils its guests with exquisite Italian cuisine served in
an inviting setting, great for a romantic evening or a fun family
night. There’s homemade pasta, fresh seafood and friendly
staff who can help you choose the right wine to complete your
meal. We really like the pizzas baked in the wood-fired oven.
QB‑2, Schulerstr. 18, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 44
91, www.dacapo.co.at. Open 11:30-23:45. A­B

DA FERDINANDO
If you’re looking for an authentic slice of Neapolitan pizza in
Vienna then look no further than Da Ferdinando, with some
of the best Italian food in town waiting to be devoured at
this at this delightful restaurant next to Schönbrunn Palace
and the Tiergarten. A charming ambience and convivial
service compliment the excellent food, while the outdoor
area is one of the city’s most pleasant, especially when
enjoyed alongside a crisp glass of wine (or two). Keep an
eye out for the lunchtime specials if you’re eating on a
budget.QHietzinger Hauptstr. 26, tel. +43 1 877 80 36,
www.daferdinando.at. Open 11:00-23:00.

IL SESTANTE
This simple Italian trattoria in the middle of Vienna’s posh AUTHENTIC NEAPOLITAN PIZZA
8th district offers authentic thin-crusted brick-oven pizzas,
BEAUTIFUL OUTDOOR DINING AREA
yummy fresh salads and excellent pasta dishes. The place
seems to be immensely popular among local families, no www.daferdinando.at
less so thanks to friendly staff (and we do mean it!). Be
sure to make a reservation if you plan to eat after 19:00, Mon-Sun 11:00am-11:00pm
and try the fantastic fettuccine gamberetti con zucchini. Tel. +43 1 8778036
QF‑2, Piaristengasse 50, MRathaus, tel. +43 1 402 98
94, www.sestante.at. Open 11:30-23:30.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 27
Restaurants
JAPANESE
KUISHIMBO
Owned by an extremely friendly Japanese family, Kuishimbo
serves what many believe is the most authentic Japanese
fare in town - delicious noodle soups, sushi and sashimi
sets, and savoury pancakes called okonomiyaki... all that
in the space of 2x4 metres, More places like this, please.
QG‑3, Linke Wienzeile 40, MKettenbrückengasse, tel.
+43 699 171 923 55.

UNKAI
Classic Japanese restaurant and sushi bar on the 7th floor
Tre Ristorante of the Grand Hotel Wien, with traditional dishes, fresh fish
sushi and an impressive culinary show at the Teppanyaki
LA MIA table. Book one of the tatami rooms with a view of the zen
A proper, no-nonsense Italian restaurant serving authentic garden for meals served by waitresses in kimono.QB‑3,
Neapolitan pizza and delicious Italian meat, fish and Kärntner Ring 9 (Grand Hotel Wien), MKarlsplatz,
seafood dishes. All of the produce (hams, cheeses and such tel. +43 1 515 80 91 10, www.unkai.at. Open 12:00-
like) is the real deal, imported from Italy, while the pasta is 14:30,18:00-22:45; Mon 18:00-22:45.
all homemade. The staff are amazingly friendly given how
busy they often are, and the location is fantastic, especially
the tables in the courtyard which are perfect when the LATINO
weather allows. The children’s menu is a bonus (such things MERCADO
can be hard to find in the city centre). Good selection of South America comes to your plate in Vienna at this
wine too.QF‑2, Lerchenfelder Strasse 13, MRathaus, cosy Latino restaurant. With dishes from across the
tel. +43 1 522 42 21, www.lamia.at/. Open 11:30-14:30, continent - some menus served as sharing packages
18:00-22:30. Fri, Sat, Sun 11:30-22:30. P­T­B­W for up to 6 people - there’s something for everyone
here, whether you like it creamy or superspicy. Try the
SOLE fish of the day, some chipotle polenta, black beans
Located on a narrow city centre street, this establishment with avocado or fried chili-mint cheeseballs.QC‑2,
is so veritably Italian you’d think you’ve just entered a Stubenring 18, MStubentor, tel. +43 1 512 25 05,
Roman trattoria. The delicious authentic fare explains why www.mercado.at. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 17:00-
this place attracts many faithful locals and has become a 22:00; Sat 17:00-23:00.
venue for visiting opera stars, such as Placido Domingo,
whose pictures with the owner are proudly exhibited
inside. The perfectly-baked pizzas and fresh pastas are just LEBANESE
out of this world, as are the meat and fish dishes and the AL FAYROOZ
desserts. Reservations recommended.QAnnagasse 6-8, Enjoy Oriental dinner, drinks, dance and hookah pipes at
MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 513 40 77, www.ristorante-sole. this basement oasis, decked out like a silk route traders’
at. Open 11:30-23:00. G­B­J tent. Tuck in to a fantastic range of Lebanese mazza starters,
including humus, stuffed wine leaves, olives and sheep’s
TRE RISTORANTE cheese, followed by meat, fish or other dishes from the
Family and food are inherently intertwined in all of us. We charcoal grill. There’s live music, cocktails and some very
learn to eat at the table with our nearest and dearest, so lively belly dancing (€10 per person extra) at weekend
it stands to reason that an understanding of brotherhood nights.QA‑1, Universitätsring 8, tel. +43 1 533 84 11,
should permeate the best restaurants in town. The good www.alfayrooz.eu. Open 12:00-24:00; Sun 17:00-24:00;
folk at Tre Ristorante don’t just understand this, they live it, Fri, Sat 17:00-04:00.
bringing childhood joy and decades of passion and trust
to one of the best traditional Italian restaurants in Vienna.
There is a commitment to fresh ingredients on a daily basis MEDITERRANEAN
(from trusted markets), and students might be interested FABIOS
in the offer of a discount for a Google rating (prior to Fabios is a wonderful excuse to hang out: with a great
paying).QWollzeile 19, tel. +43 (0)1 890 73 52, www.tre- terrace and a cool window design, be prepared to
ristorante.at. Open 11:00-23:00. watch and be watched. The menu has several options
for a delicious Mediterranean five-course meal, so
you can dine with the in-crowd.QB‑2, Tuchlauben 6,
@InYourPocket MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 532 22 22, www.fabios.at.
Open 10:00–01:00; closed Sun. A­P­G
28 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
Wollzeile 19, 1010 Wien
+4318907352
info@tre-ristorante.at
TRE Open daily 11:00 - 23:00
RISTORANTE

treristorante tre_ristorante tre-ristorante.at


facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 29
Restaurants
QUICK BITES MEXICAN
SANTOS
Santos, one of the few Mexican restaurants in town, is more
than just a restaurant: it is a culinary and design adventure.
The vibrant colours create an eye-catching backdrop,
the perfect setting for the delicious meals. The food is
traditional, and the Sunday brunch is an excellent option.
QF‑3, Siebensterngasse 14, MVolkstheater, tel. +43 1
944 33 06, www.santos-bar.com. Open 16:00-02:00; Sun
11:00-02:00.

Fast food and flavour in the city ORIENTAL


MASCHU MASCHU
BITZINGER WÜRSTELSTAND Falafel, hummus, techina, pita, limonana and other oriental
There are countless Würstelstände (hot dog stands), delicacies can be enjoyed at Maschu Maschu - including
but the Bitzinger Würstelstand stands out because the best falafel in town. With a colourful interior, soft light
of its modern design: it looks more like a fine dining and smiling people it’s a family-friendly place with a big
establishment than a simple street vendor. Unlike others, non-smoking area. Drop by on weekdays for daily lunch
Bitzinger also has beer on tap and a small daily menu. It’s dishes and variations of seasonal oriental meals.QF‑3,
only a short walk away from the Burggarten, so you can Neubaugasse 20, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 1 990 47 13,
down your cold beer and sausage while enjoying the www.maschu-maschu.at/. Open 10:30-24:00.
parkQB‑3, Augustinerplatz 1, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1
533 10 26, www.bitzinger.at. Open 10:00-05:00.
PAKISTANI
BLUEORANGE
Attention bagel lovers: this is your spot! But if bagels WIENER DEEWAN
aren’t your favourite, there’s plenty of other things to This is assuredly the only restaurant of its kind in Vienna.
choose from on the menu, including many specials. Help yourself to five Pakistani specialities from the buffet
With the added bonus of free wireless internet, many as well as salads and desserts, eat as much as you like and
stay for an extra coffee or cave in for some Ben & Jerry’s then pay as you wish. The mango lassi is worth trying, but
ice cream.QG‑3, Margaretenstr. 9, MKarlsplatz, unlike the buffet, drinks have fixed prices. As it´s near the
tel. +43 1 581 17 70, www.blueorange.co.at. Open university, Deewan is a favourite among students. After
07:30-22:00; Sun, Sat 09:00-21:00. your meal, relax in the chill-out section downstairs.QA‑1,
Liechtensteinstrasse 10, MSchottentor, tel. +43 1 925
GORILLA KITCHEN 11 85, www.deewan.at. Open 11:00-23:00; closed Sun.
There’s no need to go hungry after visiting Karlsplatz and
the Belvedere - the mouthwateringly good burritos at the
new Gorilla Kitchen street food restaurant will satisfy all PERSIAN
tastes. The burritos come in beef, pork, chicken, vegetarian PARS
and vegan guises – and even as a bowl for messy eaters. Step back in time into the rich history of the Persian empire;
Try the Guinness beef burrito, with beans and beer Pars tempts you with fair prices and a different menu every
gravy, or the pulled pork burrito. Vegans shouldn’t miss day in a restaurant whose decoration relies heavily on the
out on the oyster mushroom, avocado, rocket sandwich prowess of Persian architects.QF‑2, Lerchenfelderstrasse
– all served in a pleasant, minimalist setting with cool 148, MThaliastrasse, tel. +43 1 405 82 45, www.pars.at.
music and enough seating for spontaneous visitors. Open 11:00-24:00; closed Sun.
QGußhausstraße 19, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 66 08
36 34 27, www.facebook.com/gorillakitchenvienna.
Open 11:30-22:00; closed Sun. PERUVIAN
TÜRKIS SALONGA
Skip the international fast food options while shopping A cosy and unique Peruvian restaurant with authentic
on Mariahilferstrasse and head straight to Türkis instead. food including the well-known cevichito de pescado
Kebab stands that sell lamb rather than chicken kebabs are (marinated raw salmon in lime juice with sweet potato
not very numerous in Vienna, but Türkis steps in to save and chili). However, don’t miss the excellent cocktails and
the day with its overstuffed authentic lamb pita pockets, or the best Pisco Sour in town. Visit every day for live tango,
one or several other Turkish specialities. Try the spicy sauce, bossa nova and other music.QFlorianigasse 17, tel. +43 1
too.QG‑3, Mariahilferstr. 31, MMuseumsquartier, 961 92 46, www.salonga-peruvianbar.com. Open 11:00-
www.tuerkis.at. Open 10:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-02:00. 15:00;17:00-24:00; Thu, Fri 11:00-15:00;17:00-02:00; Sat
17:00-02:00; closed Sun.
30 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
PORTUGUESE
LISBOA LOUNGE
A modern and bright restaurant near to the Naschmarkt,
serving the best of Portuguese cuisine, from pestisco
snacks of local cheeses and Iberian ham to steak in
garlic and fresh seafood dishes – all accompanied by
Port wine. You can also just drop by for a coffee and a
Pastel de Nata pastry sprinkled with cinnamon.QG‑3,
Mühlgasse 20, MKettenbrückengasse, tel. +43 1
967 00 61, www.lisboalounge.at. Open 12:00-24:00;
closed Sun.

THAI
BANGKOK VIENNA
Call us snobs, we’ve accepted the fact that the real Thai
food we crave for can probably not be found anywhere
in Vienna. Yet we applaud the effort of this restaurant
near Naschmarkt. The service is extremely friendly, and
the omnipresent images of Buddha combined with
soothing Thai music create the right setting. The pad thai
was delicious and good value. Sadly, smoke pervades
even in the non-smoking section.QG‑3, Joanelligasse
8, MKettenbrückengasse, tel. +43 1 587 05 93, www.
bangkok-vienna.at. Open 12:30-15:00, 17:30-22:30;
closed Mon.

PATARA
This luxury Thai restaurant with branches in Bangkok,
London, Geneva and Singapore is certainly one of the meditation events. Saturday brunch 10:00-15:00 every
best in town, with according prices. From the table week.QF‑3, Neubaugasse 58, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43
settings to its location and the good modern Thai food, 1 524 78 43, www.dancingshiva.at. Open 11:00-21:00;
this local favourite exudes class.QB‑2, Petersplatz closed Sun, Mon, Tue, Wed. Note that the kitchen closes
1, MM Stephansplatz, tel. +43 1 997 19 38 0, at 20:00.
www.patara-vienna.at. Open 12:00-15:00;17:30-23:00;
Sun 17:30-23:00. A­P­G TIAN
High-quality vegetarian and vegan dishes, awarded
SIAM with a Michelin star, served in a stylish, white restaurant.
Traditional decorations, portraits of the royal family on Whether you have a meal at lunchtime or in the evening,
the walls, and silk tablecloth all add a nice touch to this you can choose and combine balanced set menus that
place. The extensive food selection is but a tad different can be complemented with suitable wines. Healthy,
from the real Bangkok cuisine, and yet, for lack of better tasty and adventurous.QB‑2, Himmelpfortgasse 23,
affordable options here in Vienna, we’ll give them credit MStubentor, tel. +43 1 890 46 65, www.taste-tian.
for trying.QB‑3, Bösendorferstrasse 2-4, MKarlsplatz, com. Open 12:00-24:00; closed Sun, Mon. Winebar
tel. +43 1 505 38 46, www.siam-vienna.at. Open 11:30- open 17:00-24:00.
15:00,17:30-24:00; Sat 17:30-24:00.
YAMM!
Conveniently located opposite the university’s main
VEGETARIAN building, this cool lounge with psychedelic interior offers
DANCING SHIVA SUPERFOODS exclusive organic and vegan dishes, including wholesome
From supersmoothies and delicious desserts to salads, warm platters, healthy desserts, and perfect
international dishes like wraps, currys and stews - visit cocktails to wash down your food. Pick up a plate, fill it
Dancing Shiva Superfoods and discover the world of raw up with goodies from the salad bar and pay by weight.
food. An atmospheric, colourful restaurant serving organic Groovy music in the evenings attracts many students and
and vegan specialities of the raw food kitchen, combined young professionals here.QA‑1, Dr. Karl-Lueger-Ring 10,
with Superfoods. Has an incorporated superfood store MSchottentor, tel. +43 1 532 05 44, www.yamm.at.
(open 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-18:00, closed Sun) and Open 08:00-23:00; Thu, Fri 08:00-01:00; Sat 09:00-01:00;
offers regular workshops, lectures, live music, yoga and closed Sun.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 31
Nightlife

Does it get any more romantic than Vienna at night? | © Julius Silver, pixabay
Of all the wonderful things that Vienna has to offer, in general has and always will play an integral part in
nightlife is not the least of them. There is something for creating the bar’s atmosphere. The ceilings are high, which
everyone in this town, and we mean everyone. From trendy helps make this a cosy, inviting environment. When the
bars to Irish pubs, lounge clubs and underground locations, weather is nice, the garden is an excellent place to enjoy
offering all kinds of nocturnal fun you might be looking for. the company of friends. Besides some drinks you can enjoy
delicious breakfast, lunch or brunch on sundays.QF‑3,
Richtergasse 8, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 1 522 70 48,
BARS www.bluebox.at. Open 10:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-04:00.
BARFLY’S CLUB
This self-proclaimed ‘American bar with soul’ is perfect for CHAMPIONS
cocktail and whiskey lovers; there’s no other place in Vienna Football, American football, hockey, golf, baseball,
that will bring you as much satisfaction. Look no further basketball… you name it, they show it on their many
than the extensive cocktail list (over 350 varieties) to realise screens. In addition to being your one-stop shop for sports,
the league this bar is in. Eat before you arrive, because Champions features a menu filled with typical American
toast is the only food they offer.QE‑4, Esterhazygasse 33, dishes. The prices are decent, and you will definitely
MZieglergasse, tel. +43 1 586 08 25, www.barflys.at. get enough to eat. Since March 2011 you can also enjoy
Open 18:00-02:00; Sun 20:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-04:00. watching your favourite games in 3D.QC‑3, Parkring 12a,
MStubentor, tel. +43 1 515 18 89 01, www.champions.
BETTEL-ALM at. Open 07:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-
Though Vienna boasts several interesting places to spend 01:00.
the night carousing with friends, they all have something
in common: they are distinctly Viennese. In contrast, the DONAU
Bettelalm has a distinctly Salzburger feel to it. From the décor Located in a former synagogue, this bar has seen better
to the music and the drinks, the Bettelalm is reminiscent of and worse times since it appeared on the social radar in
après-ski and summer mountain locales in Salzburg.QB‑3, the 1980s. If you enjoy minimal techno and chill-out beats
Johannesgasse 12, MStadtpark, tel. +43 664 884 301 96, as background music, Donau is your place. It’s in a location
www.bettel-alm.at. Open 21:00–04:00; closed Sun, Mon. close to the Museumsquartier, which makes it a favourite
among students and young creative professionals. The prices
BLUE BOX are reasonable and the cathedral-like environment is worth a
Blue Box has been around for a long time and has reached visit.QG‑3, Karl Schweighofer Gasse 10, MNeubaugasse,
legend status in Vienna. Really, it’s much more than a bar. tel. +43 1 523 81 05, www.donautechno.com. Open
Artists have exhibitions, musicians film videos, and music 20:00-04:00; Sun 20:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 20:00-06:00.
32 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
HAMMOND BAR
This cocktail bar is located away from the city centre, WINE BARS
and with a quiet atmosphere and dimmed lighting, it’s
perfect for visitors who want to quietly sip their whiskey or MAST
champagne with their friends. The prices are relatively high, Whether you are looking simply for a glass of wine
but the quality of the drinks means that you are getting your or a substantial meal (or, indeed, both) then this
money’s worth.QH‑1, Taborstrasse 33, MTaborstrasse, is as good a place as any in Vienna. Serving many
tel. +43 1 968 92 15, www.hammondbar.at. Open different wines from a number of producers (with a
17:00–03:00; Sun 19:00-02:00; Sat 19:00-04:00. focus on organic and natural wines) Mast also offers
some genuinely outstanding food, from substantial
KLEINOD bar snacks to contemporary twists of classic Austrian
One of the most chic, exclusive cocktail bars in the city food. The lunchtime set menu is a bargain. The
becomes and even better place to hang out during the venue itself reflects the young team’s vision of food
summer, when it opens its magnificent roof terrace. Always and wine: simple yet elegant.QPorzellangasse 53,
packed with Vienna’s best-looking people it’s far from MFriedensbrucke, tel. +43 1 922 66 79, www.mast.
cheap but that’s just how the crowd who come here like wine. Open 12:00-14:00, 18:00-22:00. Sat, Sun 18:00-
it. Besides, this is just about the best bar in the city, and 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. P­B­S­W
the best is never cheap. We love it.QSingerstrasse 7,
MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 03 25, www.kleinod. VILLON
wien. Open 15:30-04:00; Sun 17:00-02:00. With around 150 bottled and 25 open wines, Villon
is Vienna’s top winebar. The wines are all European,
LOOS BAR often from small producers and with an emphasis on
Designed by famous architect Adolf Loos in 1908, this bar’s Austria and Vienna. Snacks include fresh bread baked
design is definitely in accordance with one of Loos’ driving on the premises, cheese and bruschetta. Wine tasting
principles: cosiness. A tiny space, made to look larger is offered in the bar, but Villon is also the only city
than it is by the mirrors mounted along the walls above centre bar to offer extensive tours (Fri 16:00, Sat 17:00,
the wooden panelling, has only a handful of tables so be only in German; book in advance) of the wine cellars,
prepared to share with strangers. The beer selection is weak going 16 metres underground.QHabsburgergasse 4,
and overpriced, but the cocktails are top-notch. Quentin MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 967 91 29, www.villon.
Tarantino apparently had a blast here.QB‑2, Kärntner at. Open 15:00-22:30; closed Sun. Closed July-Aug.
Durchgang 10, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 32 83,
www.loosbar.at. Open 12:00-04:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-
05:00.

LUSTER BAR
CASINO
In a historic building which dates from 1902, and the CASINO WIEN
last days of Imperial Vienna, this amazing bar is a design Casino Wien is located at Palais Esterházy, the
sensation. The moment you walk in the bar will grab your oldest building on the famous Kärntner Strasse
attention, all metal and glass set in a space dominated right in the heart of Vienna, just a few steps away
by open brickwork. The atmosphere is hip, young and from St. Stephen’s Cathedral. The casino boasts a
successful: this is where some of the top Vienna style- perfect combination of historical elegance and
leaders come for drinks. Expert bar staff whip up a storm contemporary design. The Jackpot Cafe on the
behind the bar, putting together cocktails as good as ground floor creates a relaxed, casual atmosphere.
anywhere in the city. Something of a Vienna legend in the On the upper floors, guests will find an elegant
making.QWindmuhlgasse 32, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 world of salons with an exceptionally stylish
1 2642364. interior: the casino on the first floor radiates an
elegant British club atmosphere, with Roulette,
MATIKI BAR Black Jack, Macau Baccarat and other games
Cocktails as exotic as they come in the heart of Vienna. The creating extreme excitement. At the Cercle Bar,
concept of a tiki bar might have gone out of fashion for they serve freshly mixed cocktails and more. On the
a while a couple of decades or so ago, but it’s very much second floor, the Ovale & Chinese Salons boast a
back now, a global phenomenon, and Matiki is the first variety of gaming machines. Moments of pleasure
of its kind to open in the Austrian capital. The bar staff are and culinary delights at the highest level can be
skilled masters of their art, highly knowledgeable, friendly experienced in the Red & Grey Salons of the famous
and ready to mix you a drink you will not forget. Exactly the Casino Restaurant Wien.QB‑2, Kärntner Straße
kind of place Vienna needs more of, it’s a winner and we 41, MStephansplatz, Oper, tel. +43 1 512 48 36,
suggest you grab your hula skirt and get over there.QF‑3, www.wien.casinos.at. Jackpot Cafe: Daily 9:00-
Gardegasse 2, MVolkstheater, www.matiki.at. Open 04:00. Casino: Daily 14:00-04:00.
18:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-03:00; closed Sun. P­W
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 33
Nightlife
TRAVEL SHACK
KARAOKE BARS Apart from a towel, all a young traveller really needs
can be found at Vienna’s first and lively international
LEMMON backpackers bar: cheap drinks, strong shots, sturdy
Tucked into a tiny corner near the Fleischmarkt, this tables for dancing on and fun activities. Expect both
is the only karaoke locale in the first district. Wireless travellers and locals, drinking games, karaoke, all kinds
microphones and monitors throughout the bar make of sports screenings and snacks like pizza, meat pie and
first-timers feel at ease, while seasoned performers can vegemite toasties. The fully air-conditioned bar has a
really get the crowd going. And don’t be afraid to really separate smoking room - a rarity in Vienna - with a pool
wail - the bar is completely sound-proofed.QC‑2, table. Crawling distance from hostels and the main train
Wolfengasse 1, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 699 11 station.QE‑4, Mariahilfer Gürtel 21, MWestbahnhof,
96 15 72, www.lemmon.at. Open 18:00-02:00; Fri, tel. +43 1 961 01 31, www.travelshackvienna.com.
Sat 18:00-04:00; closed Sun, Mon. Open 18:00-04:00. P­G­W
SING YOUR SONG
The small stage of this basement bar is where Vienna’s VOLKSGARTEN PAVILLON
hardcore karaoke fans come to strut their stuff. With Located in one of Vienna’s largest inner city parks and
beer on tap, specials on shots throughout the night, and overlooking Heldenplatz, this 1950s-style pavillion is a
outgoing (not to mention talented) DJs, Sing Your Song perfect place to stop for a coffee in the shade on a sunny
draws a colourful crowd of characters just about every afternoon. In the evenings when some of Vienna’s best DJs
night.QA‑3, Eschenbachgasse 5, MMuseumsquartier, take over the decks, the otherwise chill café might turn into
tel. +43 1 585 32 33, www.singyoursong.at. Open a wild party. Don´t miss their famous Tuesday night Techno
20:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 20:00-04:00; closed Sun. Cafe club.QA‑2, Burgring 1, MVolkstheater, tel. +43 1
532 09 07, www.volksgarten-pavillon.at. Open 11:00-
02:00.

OMU
Intimate cellar bar with brick walls and low lighting for CAFÉ BARS
relaxed cocktail-tasting sessions. The baristas also serve CAFÉ EUROPA
aperitifs – drop by on Thursday for after-work DJ music – If you need a chill environment to relax before you really
while the kitchen churns out delightful little snacks; have a begin your night, then you need to go this hip, modern
mini-burger.QKolingasse 7, MSchottentor, www.omu. café. Upbeat yet relaxed music adds to the café’s ambience
bar. Open 17:00-02:00; closed Sun, Mon, Tue. and the young clientele will help point you in the right
direction when you are ready to move on. Occasionally, the
SCHESCH BESCH BAR café hosts parties in the back half of the property, making
The Shesch Besch restaurant with its Caucasian and oriental your transition to the party scene that much easier.QF‑3,
food has a great bar that comes alive after dinner. Enjoy Zollergasse 8, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 1 526 33 83,
aperitifs and cocktails along with the aromatic shisha pipe www.europa-lager.at. Open 09:00-05:00.
flavours, and listen to music from the Caucasus and orient.
QB‑3, Schwarzenbergstrasse 4, MStadtpark, tel. +43 1 FREIRAUM
512 84 44, www.scheschbesch.at. Open Sun, Mon, Tue, A large and popular restaurant, lounge and bar right on the
Wed 10:00-00:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00-02:00. A­T­B­ main shopping street, with a selection of breakfast boxes
E­J­i and powerdrinks, brunches and dinners. The burger with
fries is great quality, and good value. In fact, you could
spend all day here, ending with a coffee or a few cocktails
SCHIKANEDER at the bar. Do book ahead if you’re set on eating here, as
This bar is a favourite drinking hole among the intellectuals it does get busy.QMariahilfer Str. 117, MWestbahnhof,
in Vienna’s Freihausviertel, attracting a mixed crowd of tel. +43 1 596 96 00, www.freiraum117.at. Open 08:00-
students, artists and other funky individuals. There are 02:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00-04:00.
couches in the back, but hang out alongside the old
wooden bar for more eye contact. Schikaneder also includes ROCHUS
a small cinema showing independent and experimental This hip café in the third district is a nice alternative to the
films.QG‑4, Margaretenstr. 24, MKettenbrückengasse, classic Viennese coffeehouse. The pipes running along the
tel. +43 1 585 28 67, www.schikaneder.at. Open 18:00- ceiling are a bit of an eyesore, but the food is great and
04:00. the atmosphere is very inviting. This is a wonderful place
to sit outside on a summer morning and enjoy brunch.
QI‑3, Landstrasse Hauptstr. 55-57, MRochusgasse,
Full contents online: tel. +43 1 710 10 60, www.rochus.at. Open Sun, Mon
vienna.inyourpocket.com 08:00-01:00; Tue, Wed 08:00-03:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00-
04:00.
34 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
WERKZEUGH
This special place came to be thanks to an architecture GAY VIENNA
project for students at the university who wanted to do
more than just make a theoretical plan. Now, it is a chill
place for those who need a quiet space to study, work or
read in a smoke-free environment. WerkzeugH also features
interesting art exhibits and events that focus on various
topics.QG‑4, Schönbrunnerstr. 61, MPilgramgasse, tel.
+43 1 720 73 52 62, www.werkzeugh.at. Open 18:00-
01:00.

CLUBS Calling Vienna the San Francisco of Central Europe


CELESTE would be somewhat of an exaggeration. Neither would
A club, gallery, art space, wine bar and jazz venue all a comparison to Amsterdam, Barcelona or Berlin hold
rolled in one - Celeste manages to amaze in many ways. up, for that matter. Yet, although gay life in Vienna is
Drop by for the great parties, the summertime Biergarten quite low-key, things do happen, and for the most part,
or the regular concerts.QHamburgerstrasse 18, a “live and let live” attitude seems to prevail among the
MKettenbrückengasse, tel. +43 1 586 53 14, www. locals. The city hosts an annual GLBT Pride Parade on
celeste.co.at. Club open Tue-Sat 21:00-04:00, Wine bar the Ringstrasse, as well as a high-profile international
Mon-Sat 20:00-02:00, Jazz cellar Mon-Thu 20:00-02:00. HIV/AIDS charity event known as the Life Ball. As for the
gay venues, most are clustered around Naschmarkt in
DAS WERK the 4th, 5th and 6th districts, but there are a few others
A wonderfully trashy club with cheap prices, and loud scattered around the city. Austrians aren’t usually keen
electronic music. There’s occasional live music but you on starting conversation with strangers, so don’t be shy
can mainly expect DJs - and special events such as unless you want to spend the evening by yourself.
daytime fleamarkets in summer too.QSpittelauer Lände
12, MSpittelauer Bahnhst, www.daswerk.org. Open CAFÉ SAVOY
20:00-04:00; Sun 20:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 23:00-06:00; Even in the most classical setting with huge mirrors, an
closed Mon. impressive antique chandelier and the soaring fresco
ceiling, there’s some truth to the saying Wien ist anders
DUAL – Vienna is different. What was once a traditional coffee
This city centre club offers fans of electro music a small house is now a popular hangout for local gay and
but interesting venue, a great venue for dancing with lesbian community. Café Savoy is mostly frequented by
impressive visuals projected behind the DJs.QBurggasse mature thirty-something men, but their female friends
70, MVolkstheater, www.clubdual.at. Open Thu-Sat love to join them here as well.QG‑3, Linke Wienzeile
23:00-06:00. 36, MKettenbrückengasse, tel. +43 01 586 73 48,
www.savoy.at. Open 08:00-02:00.
FLEX EAGLE BAR
For more then 15 years this club has been famous for If you like to frequent gay bars but are beyond the
underground parties in Vienna. With one of Europe’s best young 20s scene, then perhaps the grungier Eagle
sound systems, every event is unforgettable. About two Bar is a good choice. A leather bar located in a
years ago Flex started to change its image from very basement, you ring the buzzer to gain entry into the
alternative to a bit more hip. But no matter who you are and dark, smoky locale where you can get a drink at the
how you are dressed - this club is definitely a place to dance bar or buy paraphernalia. The more adventurous will
a night away.QB‑1, Augartenbrücke 1, MSchottenring, enjoy exploring the dark room.QF‑3, Blümelgasse 1,
tel. +43 1 533 75 25, www.flex.at. Open 18:00-04:00. MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 1 587 26 61, www.eagle-
vienna.com. Open 21:00–04:00; closed Sun.
FLUC
Fluc is a great venue because it caters to every music taste WHY NOT?
imaginable. The programme is replete with everything from The queue outside the club is proof that this is the main
hip-hop and dance to rock, blues and progressive club. place to be for young gay men in Vienna. The two floors
What’s more, there is both an upstairs and a downstairs at Why Not? are full of beautful men, with pop dance
venue with different musical moods, so that even on a music and techno beats on the dance floor. Prepare
single night you can enjoy a variety of music styles. The to dance all night or have a drink with a stranger at
drinks are decently priced and the nearby Prater park one of the tables upstairs.QB‑1, Tiefer Graben 22,
makes for a fun walk when your ears need a break from the MSchottentor, tel. +43 1 920 47 14, www.why-not.
beats.QI ‑ 1, Praterstern 5, MPraterstern, www.fluc.at. at. Open Fri, Sat 22:00-06:00; closed Sun.
Open 22:00-05:00.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 35
Nightlife
GRELLE FORELLE
With a wicked sound system and world class DJs, the new Get the In Your Pocket
Grelle Forelle may have a cover charge, but by the time you
leave you’ll swear you would have paid much more to get City Essentials App
in. Take a break from dancing in the chill-out lounge. Only
for age 21 and over.QSpittelauer Lände 12, MSpittelau,
www.grelleforelle.com. Open Fri, Sat 23:00-06:00. motivated. The wide range of music is accompanied by
a corresponding mix of people. Still, you should plan on
HEART CLUB wearing something stylish to feel at home. No matter which
The Heart Club is located in a prime location on the of these rooms you decide to grace with your presence,
Mariahilferstrasse, opposite the Museumsquartier and is expect the beats to beckon you to the dance floor all night
the newest club in Vienna.  Heart of the Club has unique long.QI‑1, Riesenradplatz 7, MPraternstern, tel. +43 1
LED lighting that pulsates from the heart behind the DJ 90 81 19 29 00, www.praterdome.at. Open Thu 21:00-
like veins through the club and boasts one of the best 04:00; Fri, Sat 22:00-06:00.
sound systems in Vienna.  True to the motto diversity,
Saturdays are also programmed differently - from music RA’MIEN
of the 90s and 2000s via Hip Hop and R&B to cool house A great two-in-one venue: upstairs, you can dig
beats.QMariahilferstraße 3, MMuseumsquartier, www. into delicious Asian dishes (see Restaurants) before
heartclub.at. Open Tue 22:00-06:00; Wed 19:00-06:00; heading downstairs to the basement lounge to enjoy
Thu 22:00-06:00; Fri, Sat 23:00-06:00; closed Mon, Sun. a cocktail and hit the dance floor. Weekend parties
at Ra’mien are legendary. While it can get pretty hot
PASSAGE down here, you’ll never be alone on the dancefloor.
Passage is definitely more on the upscale side of things: QG‑3, Gumpendorferstrasse 9, MMuseumsquartier,
if you aren’t dressed well, don’t even think about going tel. +43 1 585 47 98, www.ramien.at.
downstairs to mingle with the crowd. The DJs are world Open 11:00-02:00; closed Mon.
class and you’ll sweat on the dance floor to their funky
house beats, but the ceilings are low by Vienna standards, SASS CLUB
and tend to make you feel a bit closed in. Still, if you want Sass Club features club nights in a downstairs venue that is
to enjoy Vienna’s high society, book it to Passage.QA‑3, somewhere between Flex and Loos Bar in terms of design.
Burgring 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 961 88 00, Sass always has a good mix of people and a well-run bar
www.club-passage.at. Open 22:00-04:00. with dedicated staff. It really comes in to save the day
when you are looking for an afterparty to keep dancing
PLATZHIRSCH in the wee hours of the morning. Expect Electronic Music
Platzhirsch has many things going for it. As one of the Culture and a sophisticated DJ lineup.QB‑3, Karlsplatz 1,
coolest clubs in Vienna, the DJs know how to make you MKarlsplatz, www.sassvienna.com. Open Sun 06:00-
groove on the dance floor, and both locals and tourists 11:00; Thu, Fri 23:00-06:00; Sat 23:00-05:00.
queue to get inside. There is an entry fee, but the dance, R&B
and disco beats will make it well worth your while.QA‑3, THE LOFT
Opernring 11, MKarlsplatz, www.platz-hirsch.at. Open The Loft is located right at the infamous Gürtel. It’s as
Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00-06:00; closed Sun, Mon, Tue, Wed. easy and laid back as their visitors. Enjoy different kinds of
music and meet different kinds of people. Wednesdays: 1.
PRATER DOME Open Mic, 2. Extremesports filmnights, 3. Poetry slams &
Prater Dome, not far from the Riesenrad Ferris wheel, has 4. Quiz. On every first Thursday you can eat different kinds
multiple dancefloors featuring house, techno and soul. of home made dumplings and listen to some electronic
There are also several lounge areas for the less physically tunes. At the acoustic nights you can listen to young and
upcoming artists playing their sets. The rest of the week
is packed with a variety of parties on up to 4 floors.QE‑2,
Lerchenfeldergürtel 37, MThaliastrasse, tel. +43 1
9477619, www.theloft.at. Open Wed, Thu 19:00-02:00;
Fri, Sat 20:00-04:00; closed Sun, Mon, Tue. Depending
on event.

VOLKSGARTEN
Volksgarten is always a happening place, no matter
what night of the week it is. From hip-hop to dance to
alternative, your music tastes will be featured at this central
venue. You don’t have to dress to the nines, but you should
dress stylish.QA‑2, Burgring, MVolkstheater, tel. +43 1
Ra’mien 533 05 18, www.volksgarten.at.
36 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
JAZZ CLUBS
1019 JAZZCLUB
There’s live Jazz music 6 nights a week at the 1019, a club
north of the city centre named after an Eric Gales song.
The audience comes in early for the great atmosphere and
good food including ravioli and organic Angus burgers
plus the local wines and craft beers - and hangs on for
the great music.QAlthanstr. 12, tel. +43 1 300 11 12,
www.1019jazzclub.at. Open 19:00-02:00; closed Sun.

PORGY & BESS


Easily the best location for jazz in Vienna, Porgy & Bess has
been a popular place among muscians and fans alike since Sass Club
the early 90s. Accordingly, it is usually one of the more
expensive jazz venues, but the concerts are worth every cent. DOWN UNDER
Porgy & Bess has an intense schedule and musicians from all Austria may not have any kangaroos, but if you want a taste
over the world play just about every night of the year, so no of Australia while you’re in Vienna, head to Down Under.
matter when you come, you’ll be able to get a taste of great This relaxed pub regularly has live music played by some of
jazz.QB‑2, Riemergasse 11, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 the best musicians in town. Every Friday and Saturday night
512 88 11, www.porgy.at/. Open 19:30-01:00. the pub opens up the Snake Pit, a 600-year-old cellar where
you can dance the night away. The pub also caters to sports
fans.QF‑4, Magdalenenstr. 32, MPilgramgasse, tel. +43
PUBS 1 585 73 30, www.downunder.at. Open 19:00-04:00.
1516
This is Vienna’s best-known micro-brewery, attracting beer FLANAGANS
lovers from all over. Mostly brewing ales and beers from This original Irish pub’s interior is strictly imported from
malted barley, 1516 also uses malted wheat, rye and rice Ireland, where an old pub in Dublin was closed down and
when the recipe calls for it, and their beers rank among the shipped to Vienna. Its central location and colourful clientele
best-tasting local brews. It’s a great place for a hamburger make it a fun place to meet up for drinks or to watch
and there’s always a great atmosphere to watch a football sports. Avid readers will find Flanigan’s small library a great
game. Reservations, though not always necessary, are resource where you can exchange books for free.QB‑3,
recommended for larger parties and for big sports events. Schwarzenbergstr. 1-3, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 513 73 78,
QB‑3, Krugerstrasse 18, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 961 www.flanagans.at. Open 10:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-04:00.
15 16, www.1516brewingcompany.com. Open 10:00-
02:00; Sun 11:00-02:00; Fri 10:00-03:00; Sat 11:00-03:00. JOHNNY’S PUB
Johnny’s Pub is truly famous for its party atmosphere.
BOGSIDE INN The pub is a bit on the small side and does not have
This is a cosy Irish pub next to the Rathhaus that does not usually very much room to sit, making for an interaction-friendly
see too many tourists. Bogside has an excellent selection of environment. You will not leave without making any new
about 80 single malts and Irish whiskeys, with a different nightly friends. Tuesday night is Johnny’s fun and challenging pub
special from Monday to Thursday. If you like whiskey as much as quiz - get there early to claim a seat. Johnny claims to serve
we do, this place is special any night of the week. The friendly the best burgers in town, and we believe he could be right.
owner prepares great snacks and claims to serve guests every QG‑3, Schleifmühlgasse 11, MKettenbrückengasse,
day of the year.QG‑1, Landesgerichtsstr. 18, MRathaus, tel. tel. +43 1 587 19 21, www.johnnys-pub.at. Open 18:00-
+43 1 409 64 90, www.bogside.at. daily from 18:00. 04:00; Sun, Mon 18:00-02:00.

CHARLIE P’S IRISH PUB SHEBEEN


Charlie P’s has become an institution in the Viennese A well-established Irish pub in Vienna, Shebeen offers
Pub & Restaurant Scene, providing an authentic Irish Pub typical Irish and British food and the usual weekly pub
experience to its loyal fans for 18 years. With 30 Taps, 40 quiz. What sets it apart is its live music every Friday and
Craft Beers and 70 Wines, there’s something for everyone. its popular open mic every Sunday, where you can belt
Their nightly line-up on DJ’s keeps the students and locals out a song. While you can expect most big international
alike dancing until the early hours. What really sets Charlie football games to be beamed on screens, don´t rely on
P’s apart is its Gault Millau Haube winning Dining Room getting a free table without a reservation. Do not forget to
and is the only Irish Pub in the world with a Michelin Star order their crispy homemade fries with your beer.QF‑2,
Chef!QA‑1, Währinger Str. 3, MSchottentor, tel. +43 Lerchenfelderstr. 45, MVolkstheater, tel. +43 1 524
1 409 79 23, www.charlieps.at. Open 14:00-02:00; Sun 79 00, www.shebeen.at. Open 17:00-02:00; Sun 10:00-
13:00-01:00; Fri 14:00-03:00; Sat 13:00-03:00. 02:00; Sat 13:00-04:00.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 37
Sightseeing

Alte Hofburg, Vienna, Austria | © LaMiaFotografia

The first district, surrounded by the majestic imperial DANUBE TOWER VIENNA
buildings along the Ringstrasse, is Vienna’s historical centre. Initially designed for the Viennese International Horticultural
Many of the important sights, such as the impressive St. Show in 1964, the Donauturm (Danube Tower) is now an
Stephen’s Cathedral, the gigantic Hofburg, Vienna’s town integral part of Vienna’s skyline. Found near the northern
hall, and many of the main museums are located here, all bank of the Danube in the very centre of the Donaupark, it
within walking distance. But a lot of essential Vienna lies is the tallest structure in Austria, although this is clear to see
beyond it. Outlying sights, such as Schloß Schönbrunn, or from its imposing presence. 776 steps lead to the viewing
the funfair and parks of the Prater are musts for every visitor. platform at 150 metres, although there are a couple of
Using public transport to get to these places is easy.   elevators that will do the work if you aren’t exactly thrilled
by the prospect of the walk. A restaurant and  cafe are found
at the viewing platform, offering magnificent 360 degree
MAIN SIGHTS views of one of the world’s great cities. There is a bungee
BELVEDERE site here in summer, perfect for those after something a little
Named for the Italian phrase for “beautiful view”, the more extreme. QDonauturmstr. 4, MKaisermühlen/VIC,
Belvedere palace complex was originally conceived as a tel. +43 1 263 35 72, www.donauturm.at. Open 10:00-
summer country estate for Prince Eugene of Savoy, one of 24:00. last ride up at 23:30.
the most celebrated military heroes in European history. His
impressive collection of artwork is displayed here, along with HOFBURG
more recent additions from the royal Habsburg holdings. Home to the Habsburg monarchy for more than six
The Upper Belvedere’s major attraction is undoubtedly centuries, the ten major buildings comprising the Hofburg
Gustav Klimt’s famous painting The Kiss, which can also be complex represent the splendour and influence of what
seen on countless scarves, mugs, posters and other trinkets was once the mightiest empire in Europe. While this
sold by surrounding shops and street vendors. While most has been the site of countless decisive historical events,
visitors skip the Lower Belvedere, its collection of curiously the sweeping arcaded façade of the Neue Burg earned
troubling Messerschmidt heads make the extra few euros worldwide notoriety in April of 1938, when Adolf Hitler
for a combination ticket well worthwhile. To get here, take spoke to a crowd of 200,000 people from its central
tram D to the Schloss Belvedere stop.QC‑4, Prinz-Eugen- balcony. Nearly every Austrian monarch has left his (or
Str. 27, tel. +43 1 79 55 70, www.belvedere.at. Open her) fingerprint on the layout of this palace, resulting
10:00-18:00; Wed 10:00-21:00. Admission €3.50-13.50. in a stylistic mishmash and a wide array of museums.
Guides/audioguides €4/3. Maps in several languages are posted in the courtyards
38 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
throughout the complex, but here are the highlights:
the Schatzkammer (Imperial Treasury) houses the crown
jewels, as well as the nail supposed to have pierced Christ’s
right hand and the so-called Spear of Destiny. If you’re
into impressive baroque interiors, the reading room of The Electric Jesus?
the Nationalbibliothek (National Library) is a highlight. For
those with a fascination for sordid dynastic family histories,
a ticket to the Kaiserappartements (Emperor’s Apartments)
The People’s Mother
includes the Silberkammer (Silver Vault) and Sisimuseum
(Sisi Museum), lending an intimate insight into the private
Theresa?
lives of Emperor Franz Joseph and his wife, Elizabeth of
Bavaria (better known locally as Sisi). The dancing white A Dude Who
Lippizaner horses of the Spanische Hofreitschule (Spanish
Riding School) perform here, as well as the boy sopranos Deadlifts Cattle?
and altos of the Wiener Sängerknaben (Vienna Boys’ Choir)
QA‑2, Heldenplatz, MVolkstheater, tel. +43-1-533 75
70, www.hofburg-wien.at. Open Sept-June 09:00-17:30,
July-Aug 09:00-18:00. Admission €13,90/8,20, Sisi Ticket
€29,90/18.

HUNDERTWASSER-KRAWINAHAUS
This vibrant and fanciful public housing complex, now an
iconic landmark of the work of Austria’s own architectural
iconoclast, Friedensreich Hundertwasser, regularly tops lists
of visitors’ favourite sights in Vienna. As you can probably
tell by the Gaudi-esque shapes and colourful palate,
Hundertwasser embraced a playful, environmentally-
focused artistic philosophy. He proclaimed that straight
lines were “godless and immoral,” that every building
should have as many trees as tenants, that rolling, uneven
floors were “a divine melody to the feet,” and that access
to a window was a basic human right. While entering the
building is not permitted (it is a private residence for 52
families and 250 trees and shrubs), the Kunsthaus Wien,
located just down Untere Weißgerberstraße, features a
small museum and café dedicated to this controversial eBook
figure.QI‑2, Kegelgasse 37-39, M1 tram Hetzgasse, tel.
+43 1 710 41 16, www.hundertwasserhaus.info.
also
available
MUSEUMSQUARTIER WIEN
Formerly the imperial court stables, the MuseumQuarter Wien
complex now functions as a lively meeting point for young
artists, musicians and students. The ten museums and venues Artists, scientists, revolutionaries,
housed here focus on fostering the creation of art as well as
its appreciation, so exhibitions, performances and workshops athletes, spies, inventors, alcoholic
in a range of disciplines (as well as free wireless internet) swimmers, and a woman who fell
are offered to the public year-round. In warm weather, the from heaven. The good and the great
central courtyard features a pétanque field, mini-racecar track,
outdoor bars and restaurants, and distinctive brightly coloured of the Slavic world, all between two
outdoor couch-like Enzis, so you can grab a cold beer and delicious covers
get to know the locals. Keep an eye on the schedule for their
indoor and outdoor events in both summer and winter.QG‑3,
Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 523 58
81, www.mqw.at. Admission free to the courtyard. go to www.poshlostbooks.com
for more information
Full contents online: FB - An Illustrated History of Slavic Misery
IG - @slavicmisery
vienna.inyourpocket.com

facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 39


Sightseeing
ago.QD‑4, Schönbrunner Schlossstr. 47, MSchönbrunn,
tel. +43 1 811 132 39, www.schoenbrunn.at. Open April-
June & Sept-Oct 08:30-17:30, July-Aug 08:30-18:30, Nov-
Mar 08:30-17:00. Park open dawn till dusk. Admission
€14,20/10,50, Sisi Ticket €29,90/18. Park free.

SPANISCHE HOFREITSCHULE
(SPANISH RIDING SCHOOL)
The oldest riding academy in the world, this fixture in
Habsburg imperial history has perpetuated the High School
of Classical Horsemanship with their famous white Lippizaner
horses for more than 430 years. Performances can be pricey
and sell out quickly, so attending a morning exercise (daily
Tuesday through Saturday, 09:00-12:00) can be a good
Schoenbrunn Palace, Vienna, Austria © mRGB
alternative, although the showier dressage elements are
usually left out.QA‑2, Michaelerplatz 1, MHerrengasse,
IRRGARTEN SCHÖNBRUNN (LABYRINTH) tel. +43 1 533 90 31, www.srs.at. Visitor centre open Tue-
Situated amid the expansive and highly manicured Sun 09:00-16:00, Fri when there is a performance 09:00-
baroque gardens of the Habsburg summer residence, the 19:00. Visitor Centre admission free; show tickets €12-116.
topiary maze and labyrinth of Schönbrunn date back to
original 17th century layouts intended for the amusement STEPHANSDOM
of the palace’s royal residents and guests. These days, the Even if you’re in European church overload, this is one
attractions are open to the rest of us, presenting a series cathedral you don’t want to skip. This location has
of twists, turns, riddles and interactive puzzles to challenge functioned as the religious, cultural and geographic centre
and enchant visitors of all ages.  QSchloss Schönbrunn, of Vienna for more than eight centuries, a history which can
MHietzing, tel. +43 1 811 132 39, www.schoenbrunn. practically be traced through the basilica’s mish-mash of
at. Open 09:00-18:00. Admission € 6/3,50. architectural styles. If you can believe it, there are even more
legends surrounding this landmark than there are tourists,
RIESENRAD so taking a tour is strongly recommended, especially
The most recognizable attraction of the Wurstelprater is later in the day once the guided tour groups have passed
undoubtedly the iconic Riesenrad, or Ferris wheel at the through.QB‑2, Stephansplatz, MStephansplatz, tel.
park’s entrance. Erected in 1897 to celebrate the Golden +43 1 513 76 48, www.stephanskirche.at. Open 06:00-
Jubilee of Emperor Franz Joseph, it ranks among the world’s 22:00. Nave closed during services. Admission free.
oldest and largest Ferris wheels, reaching a height of 64.75 Tours €1,50-14,50.
meters. The Riesenrad gained international fame through
the 1949 classic film, The Third Man when one of the cabins
was the scene of a pivotal argument between Orson Welles MUSEUMS
and Joseph Cotton. A visit to Vienna can hardly be complete ALBERTINA
without a ride on this historic giant and the breathtaking Vienna’s iconic Albertina museum holds the world’s largest
views from the top.QI‑1, Riesenradplatz 1, MPraterstern, collection of graphic art, with Monet, Picasso, Van Gogh,
tel. +43 1 729 54 30, www.wienerriesenrad.com. Open Renoir, Degas and many more in the permanent collection.
09:00-24:00. Tickets €12/5. The plush 19th century Empire-style state rooms are
juxtaposed by the striking new titanium wing designed
SCHLOSS SCHÖNBRUNN by Hans Hollein, reflecting the museum’s characteristic
This magnificent summer palace of the Habsburg royalty synthesis of classical and modern artwork. With its
truly embodies the opulence of the Baroque era, from
its topiary maze and minutely manicured gardens to the
ornately detailed interiors. Several tour packages offer
access to the highlights of its 1,441 rooms, which have
witnessed imperial births and deaths, the signings of
treaties, legendary performances, and a veritable who’s who
of European history. A visit to Schönbrunn isn’t complete
without a walk around the park grounds; the Tiergarten is
the oldest continuously running zoo in the world, and while
modest in scale, it boasts a comprehensive feeding schedule
and well-designed enclosures. If you’re the more intrepid
sort, definitely opt for a hike up the hill to the ornamental
Gloriette, where you can refuel with Kaffee and a Kipferl,
just like Empress Maria Theresa did more than 250 years Albertina © Julius Silver, pixabay

40 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing
selection of 100 works, the collection of Bruegel’s drawn
and printed output is the pick of the Albertina’s current
exhibitions.  QB‑3, Albertinaplatz 1, MKarlsplatz, tel.
+43 1 53 48 30, www.albertina.at. Open 10:00-18:00;
Wed, Fri 10:00-21:00. Admission €12,90, under 19s free.

VERTIGO
ARCHITEKTURZENTRUM WIEN
The Austrian Museum of Architecture is an internationally
respected institution, and it doesn’t take long to
understand why. The history and development of
architecture in a country defined by the art is extensively
VertiGO Op Art
documented, explored and celebrated here, with und
permanent exhibitions alongside workshops, guided eine Geschichte
des schwindels
tours, city exhibitions and more than 500 special 1520–1970
events throughout the year. This is one of the most
credible homages to architecture on the planet, and 25.5.– 26.10.2019
has long served as a comprehensive hub for researchers
from all over the globe.QG‑3, Museumsplatz 1,
MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 521 31 15 30,
www.azw.at. Open 10:00-19:00. Admission €7/4.50.

BANK AUSTRIA KUNSTFORUM WIEN MuseumsQuartier


A top address for art lovers, especially those with a Museumsplatz 1
A-1070 Wien
passion for classical modern painting from the past 50 www.mumok.at
years. Both leading museums as private collectors use Marina Apollonio, Spazio
this exhibition centre to present their works.QA‑2, Ad Attivazione Cinetica
6B, 1966–2015, Museo
Freyung 8, MHerrengasse, tel. +43 1 537 3 26, www. del Barrio, NY, Courtesy
Photo: Lauren Glazer,
kunstforumwien.at/. Open 10:00-19:00; Fri 10:00-21:00. © Marina Apollonio

Admission €11/8,50/6.

GEMÄLDEGALERIE DER AKADEMIE DER wing. Audio guides in four languages included.QI‑4,
BILDENDEN KÜNSTE WIEN Arsenal Objekt 1, MSüdbahnhof, tel. +43 1 79 56 10,
(HOSTED AT THE THEATERMUSEUM) www.hgm.at. Open 09:00-17:00. Admission €6/4, first
The Gemäldegalerie has temporarily relocated to the Sun in the month free.
Theatermuseum until 2020, but the magnificent array
of paintings remains arrestingly engaging. Some of HOFMOBILIENDEPOT
the most important artists in Europe’s long and storied Formerly the Imperial and Royal Furniture storehouse
history of creativity are showcased, with masters such of the Habsburgs, this unique museum catalogues
as Rubens, Rembrandt and Titian found on the elegant the history of the imperial family through its extensive
walls. The slightly eccentric ‘Last Judgment’ altarpiece by collection of impeccably handcrafted furnishings.QF‑3,
Hieronymus Bosch might be the main event, dating as it Andreasgasse 7, MZieglergasse, tel. +43 1 81 11 30,
does from the early 1500s. Vienna is an art’s lover’s dream, www.hofmobiliendepot.at. Open 10:00-18:00; closed
and the Gemäldegalerie is a definite must-visit.QH‑2, Mon. Admission €9,50/6.
Lobkowitzplatz 2, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 588 16
22 01, fax +43 1 588 16 22 99, www.akademiegalerie.at. KAISERLICHE SCHATZKAMMER WIEN
Open 10:00-18:00; closed Tue. Admission €12/9 - free up (IMPERIAL TREASURY VIENNA)
to 18 years. A­U In the Hofburg’s oldest inner courtyard, the Habsburg
Imperial Treasury contains a fascinating array of many of
HEERESGESCHICHTLICHES MUSEUM the empire’s most valuable artefacts. Gape at the crown
(MUSEUM OF MILITARY HISTORY) jewels, ornate reliquaries, monstrances, embroidered
The Museum of Military History features a survey of vestments, a splinter of the ‘true cross’ (plus one of the
Austrian and European conflict spanning more than nails). There’s also the enigmatic Spear of Destiny, long
four centuries, all presented within Vienna’s former believed to have been the one thrust into Christ’s side,
barracks and armoury. Artefacts, arms and armour from and credited with granting (at least temporary) world
practically every continental conflict since the 17th domination to its long list of powerful owners, among
century include original Turkish tents, the car and couch others, Barbarossa, Constantine the Great, Charlemagne
where Emperor Franz Ferdinand was shot and died, and Hitler.QA‑2, Hofburg, MVolkstheater, tel. +43 1
Nazi propaganda, various aircraft, a tank garden and 525 2 40, www.kaiserliche-schatzkammer.at. Open
(remarkably for a landlocked country) an extensive naval 09:00-17:30; closed Tue. Admission €12/9.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 41
Sightseeing
Dürer), the west wing boasts a comprehensive overview
of important Spanish and Italian works (Titian, Raphael,
Caravaggio, Tintoretto, Velásquez). Egyptian, near East,
Greek and Roman antiquities and the Kunstkammer with
the most wonderful of artworks, such as the world famous
»Saliera« (salt cellar) by Benvenuto Cellini, make up the
ground floor.QA‑3, Burgring 5, MVolkstheater, tel. +43
1 52 52 40, www.khm.at/en/. Open 10:00-18:00; Thu
10:00-21:00; closed Mon. June to August: open every
day. Admission €16/12, audioguides €5.

KUNSTRAUM NIEDEROESTERREICH
The official art space of Lower Austria at 13 Herrengasse
in the middle of Vienna has been open admission free to
visitors since 2005. With attractive architecture and a floor
area of 300 square metres in Palais Niederösterreich, the
former Lower Austrian Government building, the Kunstraum
provides facilities for the presentation of work by young
Austrian and international artists. Here, they can show their
work to the public without the pressure of having to meet
Leopold Museum ©Julia Spicker sales targets or visitor quotas while still being at the centre
of cultural life in the city.QA‑2, Herrengasse 13, tel. +43
KUNSTHALLE WIEN 1 904 21 11, www.kunstraum.net. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat
Behind the elegant Baroque façade of the Museumsquartier 11:00-15:00; closed Sun, Mon.
building, the Kunsthalle is one of the most vibrant
contemporary art venues in Europe, and Vienna’s main LEOPOLD MUSEUM
exhibition space for contemporary art. Expect themed Inside the Museum Quarter complex, the sleek white
group exhibitions, exciting solo exhibitions, retrospectives Leopold Museum boasts the world’s largest collection of
and works by emerging artists. The Kunsthalle has a work by expressionist Egon Schiele, as well as important
second space on Karlsplatz, at (B-3) Treitlstrasse 2.QB‑3, pieces by Gustav Klimt, Oskar Kokoschka and other major
Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 521 Austrian artists from the 19th and 20th centuries. The
89 33, www.kunsthallewien.at. Open 11:00-19:00; Thu architecture of the Leopold Museum, a light-filled cube
11:00-21:00. Admission Museumsquartier €8, Karlsplatz of white shell limestone, stands in striking contrast to the
€3, combined €12. historic ambience of the Imperial Stables.Tip: The museum’s
panorama windows offer a wonderful view of central
KUNSTHAUS WIEN Vienna and the Hofburg Palace.QG‑3, Museumsplatz
The Museum Hundertwasser was founded by Friedensreich 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 52 57 00, www.
Hundertwasser, one of the most important Austrian artists of leopoldmuseum.org. Open 10:00–18:00; Thu 10:00-
the twentieth century. The Museum Hundertwasser unites the 21:00; closed Tue. Admission €14/10, Audioguide €4.
most important aspects of his oeuvre and exhibits the largest
collection in the world of his paintings, printed graphics, MADAME TUSSAUDS
tapestries and architectural designs. Vienna’s first „green The Vienna branch of the world famous wax museum
museum“ also gives its visitors the chance to experience features more than 80 lifelike wax figures of stars,
Friedensreich Hundertwasser’s visionary ecological politicians, celebrities and musicians from around the
commitment – he experimented with grass roofs and planted world. In addition to typical international favourites, the
trees in building facades. The Bistro in the KUNST HAUS WIEN collection also includes many Austrian figures. Mozart,
serves vegetarian delicacies – also in the romantic garden. Falco, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Freud, Klimt and Conchita
QI‑2, Untere Weißgerberstraße 13, MRadetzkyplatz, tel. Wurst are ready and infinitely patient for pictures with fans.
+43 1 712 04 91, www.kunsthauswien.com. Open 10:00- QI‑1, Riesenradplatz, MPraterstern, tel. +43 1 890 33
18:00. Admission € 10/5, Combined ticket € 12. 66, www.madametussauds.com/wien. Open 10:00-
18:00. Last entry 17:00. Admission €20,5/16,5.
KUNSTHISTORISCHES MUSEUM
Nowhere in Vienna will you experience a more salient MOZARTHAUS VIENNA
account of Austrian imperial history. The building’s layout A centre devoted to the life and works of Austria’s musical
even echoes the geography of the Habsburg monarchy genius, housed in the last remaining of Mozart’s apartments.
- the impressive central stairwell represents the Alps and The composer lived here in grand style from 1784-87. In
divides the two major European artistic schools. While the addition to the historical Mozart apartment, visitors can
east wing contains all of the northern German, Flemish find out about the times in which Mozart lived and his
and Dutch pieces (Rubens, Bruegel, Rembrandt, Vermeer, most important works. The exhibition focuses on his years
42 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing

MASTERPIECES
SCHIELE & KLIMT
www.leopoldmuseum.org
Max Halberstadt, Sigmund Freud, 1921, Foto: Sigmund Freud Privatstiftung/Imagno/picturedesk.com
Josef Hoffmann, Brosche, Sammlung Grubman, Foto: © Auktionshaus im Kinsky | Weitere Werke: © Leopold Museum, Wien (Details)

W1900 In your pocket.indd 1 27.08.2019 14:03:55


in Vienna, which marked a high point in his creativity.QB‑2, Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 52
Domgasse 5, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 17 91, 50 00, www.mumok.at. Open 10:00-19:00; Mon 14:00-
www.mozarthausvienna.at. Open 10:00-19:00. Admission 19:00; Thu 10:00-21:00. Admission €11/8, Articket valid.
€11/9/4.50. Combined ticket with Haus der Musik €18.
MUSEUM AUF ABRUF (MUSA)
MUMOK (MUSEUM OF MODERN ART) The ‘Museum on Demand’, located in the former Public
The Mumok, short for Museum Moderner Kunst, is Austria’s Relief office, was conceived in the early 1990s as a forum
leading centre for modern and contemporary art. It stands for the city’s promising young visual artists. Today it has
for cosmopolitanism, progress and artistic diversity of the a large gallery space and a long list of alumni that reads
highest quality. Occupying an impressive black basalt block as a practical who’s who in the Austrian art scene. Guided
in the Museumsquartier, it hosts an exceptional collection tours and workshops are available upon request.QA‑1,
that has given it a standing that extends far beyond Felderstrasse 6-8, MRathaus, tel. +43 1 40 00 84 00,
Vienna’s borders. While Mumok’s collection forms the basis www.musa.at. Open 11:00-18:00; Thu 11:00-20:00; Fri
of the exhibition programme, they put on four exhibitions 11:00-16:00; closed Sun, Mon. Admission free.
per year in collaboration with international partners.QG‑3,
MUSEUM FÜR ANGEWANDTE KUNST (MAK)
Better known as MAK, this museum is dedicated to artistic
functionality - from teapots and textiles to furniture and
light fixtures. Because the museum doubles as a university,
exhibitions rotate often, displays are fresh and unique, the
voluminous reading room is open to perusal free of charge,
and guided tours and events are frequent and varied. Every
Tuesday is MAK NITE, when the museum becomes a showcase
for the latest projects of young artists—a perfect opportunity
to grab a fancy cocktail in the museum’s Österreicher bar and
chitchat with the artists.QC‑2, Stubenring 5, MStubentor,
tel. +43 1 712 80 00, www.mak.at. Open 10:00-18:00;
The Kunsthalle is one of Vienna’s most influential buildings Tue 10:00-22:00; closed Mon. Admission €7,90/5,50, Free
 © Kunsthalle Wien 2014, photo Stephan Wyckoff Admission on Tuesdays 6–10 p.m.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 43
Sightseeing
MUSEUM OF ILLUSIONS
VIENNA WITH THE KIDS They say that seeing is believing, but excellent attractions
like the Museum of Illusions certainly make us question
Behind the façade of Vienna’s imperial opulence, that. A fascinating exploration of the senses and the
you might wonder if there is any space left for simple trickster ability of the mind, the Museum of Illusions is an
down-to-earth family fun in this city. Thankfully oppor- entertaining way to spend many an hour in Vienna. The
tunities abound for year-round outdoor entertainment, exhibitions are worth the price of admission alone, and you’ll
festivals, concerts, street fairs, as well as museums, the- get plenty of laughs from the photographic opportunities
atres and other creative activities where both kids and throughout.QWallnerstraße 4, tel. +43 (0)1 532 22 55,
their parents can feel comfortable and welcome. www.museumderillusionen.at. Open 10:00-21:00. €12
adults, €8 children, €10 seniors, €30 family.
HAUS DES MEERES (AQUA TERRA ZOO)
Featuring more than 10,000 animals, Vienna’s Aqua NATURHISTORISCHES MUSEUM
Terra Zoo occupies one of six massive concrete flak Renowned for its zoological and anthropological holdings,
gun towers built by the Nazis shortly before the end of this museum offers the scientific perspective of the
WWII. The huge space is divided between terrariums, extensive imperial collections. Many of the specimens
aquariums and aviaries. Highlights include the feeding displayed in the late 19th-century wood-panelled halls date
of the sharks and piranhas (Mon at 10:30 & Fri at 15:30) from Austria’s ambitious research and colonial expeditions,
as well as other animals (posted online). Thrillseekers including the Colombian emerald presented to Hernán
may find a trip up the rock climbing wall on the outside Cortés by Aztec ruler Montezuma, several stuffed extinct
of the flak tower a fun jaunt before viewing the weekly species, and the oldest human-carved statuette ever
shark dive (Thu at 18:00).QF‑3, Fritz-Grünbaumplatz found. Unless you’re a mineralogist, start on the second
1, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 1 587 14 17, www.haus- floor and work your way down—the dinosaurs, animals
des-meeres.at. Open 09:00-18:00; Thu 09:00-21:00. and special exhibitions are upstairs.QA‑2, Burgring 7,
Admission €18,90/8,60. MVolkstheater, tel. +43 1 52 17 70, www.nhm-wien.
ac.at. Open 09:00-18:30; Wed 09:00-21:00; closed Tue.
TECHNISCHES MUSEUM WIEN Admission €10/8/5.
(TECHNICAL MUSEUM)
Attention technology geeks: this is your playground! SECESSION
You can use all of your senses and imagination to This remarkable building was conceived as a deliberate
experience the stages of scientific and technological opposition to the predominant artistic nostalgia of the early
progress from its inception to the latest cutting-edge 20th century, and most of Vienna ridiculed its crowning
achievements. Permanent and special exhibits feature gold sphere as a goldenes Krauthappel or ‘golden cabbage’
the development of heavy industry, energy production, when it was unveiled in 1898. Today, the vegetable-ism has
transportation, communication, musical instruments, become something of an endearment with the building
computers and a lot more. Special programs for featured on the back of Austrian-minted €0,50 coins, and
children offer interactive learning, holiday games, and the building has functioned as a forum for modern Austrian
even birthday parties with friends. Trams N°52 or 58 artists for more than 100 years. The main attraction is
from Westbahnhof.QD‑4, Mariahilferstrasse 212, tel. undoubtedly Gustav Klimt’s Beethoven Frieze, but the
+43 1 89 99 80, www.technischesmuseum.at. Open higher ticket price will also snag you entry to the other
09:00-18:00; Sun, Sat 10:00-18:00. Admission €13, exhibitions.QA‑3, Friedrichstrasse 12, MKarlsplatz, tel.
children under 19 free. +43 1 587 53 07, www.secession.at/en/. Open 10:00-
18:00; closed Mon. Admission €9,50/6.
ZOOM KINDERMUSEUM
The ZOOM is Austria’s only museum dedicated to SIGMUND FREUD MUSEUM
children up to 14 years old. The exposition is divided into Located in the former practice and private apartment of the
four areas - main exhibit, ocean, studio and animated film renowned father of psychoanalysis, this museum features
centre - and is designed to make cultural and scientific both the historical perspective on Sigmund Freud’s work
information as comprehensible to kids as possible. and its application to modern and conceptual art. Europe’s
The focus is on games and play, as well as on sensory largest library dedicated to psychoanalysis is also available
cognitive process. Kids are encouraged to ask questions for your perusal.QG‑1, Berggasse 19, MSchottentor, tel.
and make things of their own. Teenagers can create +43 1 319 15 96, www.freud-museum.at. Open 10:00-
animated films or even record their own pop songs. An 18:00. Admission €12/8,50/7,50.
ideal place for families to spend a stimulating afternoon.
QG‑3, Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel.
+43 1 524 79 08, info@kindermuseum.at, www.
kindermuseum.at. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Get the In Your Pocket
Sun. Exhibition admission free. City Essentials App

44 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com


Heurigen & Wine Bars
BEETHOVENHAUS HEURIGER MAYER AM
PFARRPLATZ WIENER HEURIGEN
After tasting the wine at Mayer, it’ll come as no surprise that
Beethoven composed one of the greatest classical works
ever, his glorious Ninth, while living in this building. The
traditional Mayer am Pfarrplatz Heurige has been producing
wine since 1683, and it makes a great excursion from the city
centre, a few kilometres to the south. Try some of the typical
tavern food, local or Austrian options such as Mangalitsa
pork lardo, Carinthian salami or roast pork with sauerkraut
served in a buffet – perhaps seated on the terrace as the
band pipes up around 19:00 every day. The salads, cheese
and sweet desserts are equally memorable.QPfarrplatz 2,
MHeiligenstadt, tel. +43 1 370 12 87, www.pfarrplatz.at. About 2% of Vienna’s surface is used for vineyards and
Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. you can try many of these wines at Heurigen. The word
refers to new wine (heuer meaning this year), and by
FUHRGASSL HUBER definition a Heurigen is attached to the vineyard which
This cosy Heuriger has been operating for 40 years. Built by produces the very wine it serves. Traditionally these places
the stage designer of the Volksoper, the interior was lovingly would only off er cold cuts to go with the drinks, but
decorated by Ms. Huber herself; the large crown hanging from today most Heurigen also serve hot food. The best known
the ceiling is one of a kind. There’s typical Heuriger food, but taverns are located in Grinzing, a suburban village in the
this restaurant is smaller than most, adding to its intimate hills north of Vienna. The good soil along with the location
atmosphere. Take bus N°35A from Nussdorferstrasse metro and climate provide optimal conditions for vineyards –
station.QNeustift am Walde 68, tel. +43 1 440 14 05, www. plus many thirsty clients can be found nearby too. Note
fuhrgassl-huber.at. Open 14:00 – 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. that beer and coff ee are not usually served at a Heurigen,
it’s all about the wine.
HEURIGER SCHÜBEL-AUER
A gorgeous Heuriger wine restaurant, run by the ninth To get to Grinzing, take bus N°38A from the Heiligenstadt
generation of the family, since 1711. Combining local traditions or tram N°37 from the Schottentor U-Bahn station.
with innovative and modern cuisine, it’s a fantastic place to
try some wine and food. Eminently suitable for vegetarians
and special diets too; they can even prepare gluten-free and pasta dishes; we recommend the home-made quiche.
schnitzel (ask in advance). Take tram D to Beethovengang. QG-3, Operngasse 30, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 890 22 72,
QKahlenberger Str. 22, Nußdorf, tel. +43 1 370 22 22, www. eule1040@ eulennest.at, www.eulennest.at. Open 16:00 -
schuebel-auer.at. Open 15.30 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

WEINHOF ZIMMERMANN MAST


Head out to Neustift am Walde, northwest of the city centre, Whether you are looking simply for a glass of wine or a
for original Viennese Heuriger food served in two rustic substantial meal (or, indeed, both) then this is as good a place
dining rooms or in the Naturgarten with scenic views of the as any in Vienna. Serving many different wines from a number
vinyards and the forest. Zimmermann’s quality wines have of producers (with a focus on organic and natural wines) Mast
been produced here with lots of manual labour since the 19th also offers some genuinely outstanding food, from substantial
century. Note that same-week bookings require prepayment bar snacks to contemporary twists of classic Austrian food.
of the buffet price.QMitterwurzergasse 20, tel. +43 1 440 The lunchtime set menu is a bargain. The venue itself reflects
12 07, www.weinhof-zimmermann.at. Open 15:00 - 24:00, the young team’s vision of food and wine: simple yet elegant.
Sun 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Open mid-March until end QPorzellangasse 53, MFriedensbrucke, tel. +43 1 922 66
Oct. 79, www.mast.wine. Open 12:00-14:00, 18:00-22:00. Sat,
Sun 18:00-22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. P­B­S­W
WINE BARS WEIN & CO
EULENNEST VINOTHEK & WEINBAR With eight locations throughout the city, Wein & Co. is Vienna’s
The ‘Owl’s Nest’ is a small and cosy wine bar whose owners are largest chain of wine shops and bars. The new fl agship store
major wine connoisseurs who love to pass their knowledge on Mariahilferstrasse boasts a stylish wine bar and a restaurant
on in a variety of tongues: English, French, Italian and German. with business lunch for under €10 on weekdays. Other central
There are over 400 top Austrian wines to choose from and branches are at Jasomirgottstrasse 3-5 (M Stephansplatz),
over 50 Edelbränden (spirits). Up to 20 diff erent open wines Universitätsring 12 (M Schottentor), and Getreidemarkt 1 (M
can be found on the wine list every week, and besides Karlsplatz). QF-3, Mariahilferstrasse 36, MNeubaugasse,
the wines there’s also greatvalue food: fi ne Austrian and tel. +43 1 507 063 022, www.weinco.at. Open 10:00 - 02:00,
international delicatessen, prosciutto, fi ne salami, ripe cheeses Sun 15:00 - 24:00.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 45
Jewish Vienna

© Agentur Wulz

There are few cities in Europe where the Jewish population JEWISH RENAISSANCE AND
has been so deeply ingrained, and yet, has experienced such
devastation during the persistent waves of anti-Semitism THE RISE OF ANTI-SEMITISM
and in the World War II, as Vienna. The historical, political and The years following the Revolution of 1848 were quite stable
economic contribution of the Jewish community into this and prosperous for the Jewish community. The presence of
city’s past and present can hardly be underestimated. It would the Jews became obvious in the city’s social, economic and
suffice to say that three of four Nobel Prize Winners from Austria political life. Anti-Semitic feelings were formented by many
were Jewish. Luminaries such as the father of psychoanalysis of Vienna’s public officials and politicians, one of the most
Sigmund Freud, writers Arthur Schnitzler and Stefan Zweig, radical of them being Dr. Karl Lueger, the Mayor of Vienna
composers Gustav Mahler and Emmerich Kalman, and the from 1897 to 1910. Early in the 20th century, twenty-one
founder of modern Zionist movement Theodore Herzl, all lived members of the extreme anti-Semitic All-Deutsche Partei
and worked here and were all of Jewish origin. were elected into parliament.

EARLY HISTORY WWII AND THE HOLOCAUST


The first mention of Jews in Vienna is from the 12th century. On March 12, 1938, Hitler marched into Vienna and made
By 1420 the Jews had comprised about 5% of the city’s a speech at the balcony of the Hofburg Palace. Almost
population, but soon they were expelled from the city, immediately, Aryan-only laws were enacted, and Jews were
their property was confiscated, and many were brutally deprived of civil rights, were not permitted to own land or
murdered in nearby Erdberg. Later in the 15th century they hold public office. On November 9, 1938, the notorious
were allowed to return and establish their own colony in Kristallnacht occurred, when angry residents, driven by
Leopoldstadt. Under the reign of Empress Maria Theresa the Nazi party, torched Jewish businesses and synagogues.
laws were introduced that substantially worsened the About 6,000 Jews were apprehended and sent to Dachau
condition of the Jews; these were later repealed, and Vienna camp that day. Following the Wannsee Conference of
became the center of Jewish culture in Central Europe. 1942, Jews were stripped of their citizenship and mass
deportations to concentration camps ensued. The Jewish
community, that had counted over 200 thousand people
Read more history online: in 1938, was all but decimated. More than 130,000 were
vienna.inyourpocket.com forced to leave the country, about 65,000 were murdered.
Less than 1,000 managed to survive the catastrophe.
46 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
in_your_pocket_JMW_2018.qxp_Layout 1 27.11.18 16
Jewish Vienna
FREUD IN VIENNA Jewish Museum Vienna Museum Judenplatz
Dorotheergasse 11 Judenplatz 8
Sigmund Freud, one of Vienna’s most prominent Jewish 1010 Vienna 1010 Vienna
intellectuals, lived and worked at Berggasse 19 between Sun – Fri 10 am – 6 pm Sun – Thu 10 am – 6 pm,
Fri 10 am – 2 pm (during
1859 and 1938. He’s now recognized as the founder
summertime 10 am – 5 pm)
of modern psychology, but when he was in Vienna,
Freud’s career as a researcher and theorist was heavily
marked by confrontation and opposition due to the
strong anti-Semitic attitude in Viennese politics and
society. Consequently, Freud did not enjoy much local
recognition for his work on psychoanalysis, which was
held in low regard and labelled as a ‘Jewish science’, and
his career at the University of Vienna stagnated crumbled.
After the annexation of Austria in 1938 he fled to London,
but despite the constant ostracism he experienced in
Vienna, he always longed for his former home.

THE JEWISH COMMUNITY


TODAY
It took Austria almost fifty years to come to terms and accept
its role in the holocaust. Traces of anti-Semitism continued
through the 1980s and can still be felt to this day. Not until 1991 The permanent exhibition.
did the government finally issue a statement acknowledging
their role in the Third Reich. The Jewish population has been
growing since the 1950s, primarily due to immigration from Dorotheergasse 11, 1010 Vienna · www.jmw.at
Eastern Europe, the former Soviet Union and Iran; today it
stands at about 14,000 and there are fifteen synagogues.

JEWISH SIGHTS MUSEUM JUDENPLATZ


The Jewish Museum of Vienna is one of the largest in UNTIL 17.11 » THREE WITH A PEN: LILY
Europe, with locations at Dorotheergasse and Judenplatz. RENÉE, BIL SPIRA, AND PAUL PETER
The Dorotheergasse location uncovers the Jewish history of PORGES
Vienna throughout the centuries, while at Judenplatz there A small but enchanting exhibition, ‘Three with a Pen’ tells
are the archeological remains of a 500-year old synagogue, the tale of three artists who shared a similar fate. All three
and a monument to the Austrian victims of the holocaust. were Jewish children in Austria when Germany annexed
The Stadttempel at Seitenstettengasse is the only synagogue the country, and all three left to avoid the tragic horror
to survive the war and is open for guided tours. Other Jewish that befell Europe’s Jewish population, making their
sights include Theodore Herzl Stiege, the stairs named after the name and fame across the world. The Jewish Museum
father of Zionism, and the monument to the victims of Gestapo in Vienna will showcase a limited selection of works by
at Morzinplatz. The Jewish Welcome Center at Stephansplatz Renée, Spira and Porges, a trio who used art as a means
has further information about Jewish life and culture in Vienna. of survival and rebellion.  QB‑2, Jüdisches Museum
Wien (Jewish Museum Vienna), Dorotheergasse 11,
JÜDISCHES MUSEUM WIEN MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 53 50 43 13 10, www.jmw.at.
(JEWISH MUSEUM VIENNA) Tickets €12, students €8, children free. Closed Sat.
The first of its kind in the world when it opened, the Jewish
Museum Vienna divides its extensive collection of Jewish
historical and religious artifacts between two city centre
locations. Most of the exhibitions are displayed in the Palais
Eskeles at the Dorotheergasse location, while the Judenplatz
facility, recently renovated and reopened to the public,
features the foundations of a 15th century synagogue and
the medieval Jewish ghetto, as well as Rachel Whiteread’s
impressive monument to the 65,000 Austrian Jews who were
exterminated during the Holocaust.QB‑2, Dorotheergasse
11, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 53 50 43 13 10, Bil Spira, Zeichnungen Lager Blechhammer
 © Imperial War Museum London
www.jmw.at. Open 10:00-18:00. Admission €10/5.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 47
Shopping

The Graben | © Brian Kinney

When it comes to shopping, the Vienna scene really runs of his customer’s needs.QF‑3, Siebensterngasse 52,
the gamut from large fashion chains to small boutiques, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 1 923 13 16, www.arnolds.at.
from designer labels to offbeat artisans. The sheer variety Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; closed Sun.
of retailers merits an extended shopping tour, but for those
with something more specific in mind, we’ve got a few KARIN KASAJ
recommendations on where to start. Unique Italian brands, such as Rinascimento, Sistes or Rich
& Royal, await the trendiest fashion-followers at these two
locations. You can be assured you’ll be the only lucky one
FASHION in town to wear these classy outfits - they are shipped
While Vienna definitely has no shortage of major brand directly from Milan. Broad selection of elegant clothing for
names featuring both extravagant luxury collections and ladies from business attires to evening dresses. Stylish shirts
informal street-style fashion, we thought that rather than and jackets for men are also available from their online
listing the ever-present Benettons, H&Ms and Zaras of the catalogue.QB‑2, Wollzeile 12, MStephansplatz, tel. +43
world, we would direct you to some of Vienna’s numerous 1 513 25 49, www.karinkasaj.at. Open 10:00-18:30; Sat
hidden treasures that sell unique items not to be found on 10:00-18:00; closed Sun.
every street corner in every other city. Most of the shops
mentioned here are located in the city’s up-and-coming MICHAELA ARL DE LIMA
districts where trendy style-conscious people live and work Michaela Arl De Lima’s atelier and shop sells finest
- Freihausviertel, Naschmarkt and Neubau. handcrafted jewellery, and jewellered items such as leather
purses and clutchbags. There’s also quirky ‘doggyjewellery’:
ARNOLD’S decorated dog collars and leashes made of leather and
Jakub Arnold, a former Managing Director with Carhartt’s, tweed.QF‑3, Lindengasse 25, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43
opened in 2010 this new edgy boutique in which he 676 84 67 70 10, www.michaelaarldelima.com. Open
offers an eclectic range of appealing fashion labels. In its Mon 11:00-17:00; Tue 11:00-18:00; Wed 11:00-17:00;
refurbished splendour, the shop features a wide range of Thu 11:00-18:00; Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; closed
international brands, such as the Japanese premium denim Sun.
label Edwin Jeans, the American shoe brand Red Wing
Shoes, timeless jackets by Carhartt, sunglass collection by
RetroSUPERfuture, modern design from denmark named Get the In Your Pocket
NorseProjects, and much more. With years of experience in
the world of fashion, Jakub Arnold has acquired an innate City Essentials App
sense for trends and cuts, but above all else, an awareness
48 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Shopping
ROLF SHOP WIEN WIENER SILBER MANUFACTUR
The new ROLF shop wien, housed in a wonderful Wiener Silber Manufactur is a genuine piece of Vienna`s
wooden building, sells very special and fashionable cultural identity, looking back over more than 100 years of
award-winning eyewear, designed and handcrafted in history. Ever since, the company sought to collaborate with
the Tirol region in the Alps. They are produced in-house the most significant designers of its time in order to produce
using natural materials (wood, stone and horn), without pioneering objects in silver that combine outstanding
any metal or screws. Innovations include the unique design with the mastery of silversmith. The company offers
wooden hinge and the patented lens-glazing system. classichighlights and icons of Vienna Design around 1900
QFranziskanerplatz 3, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 that captivate with their clear and functional elegance, f.e.
29 84, www.rolf-spectacles.com. Open Tue, Wed, Thu, Josef Hoffmann’s revolutionary cutlery no. 135, created
Fri 10:00-13:00;14:00-18:30; Sat 11:00-17:00; closed in 1902, as well as a range of fascinating contemporary
Sun, Mon. objects by internationally renowned designers such as
Zaha Hadid, Wolfgang Joop, Erwin Wurm, and many more.
QB‑2, Spiegelgasse 14, tel. +43 1 513 05 00, www.
FLOWERS wienersilbermanufactur.com. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat
SÄDTLER 10:00-13:00; closed Sun.
Probably the most exclusive florist in Vienna, Sädtler has
supplied beautiful bouquets, wreaths and other floral
arrangements for all occasions since the 19th century. GOURMET FOOD & DRINK
Plants are also in abundance, and deliveries are made JULIUS MEINL AM GRABEN
throughout the city. The main location next to the Opera Vienna’s legendary epicurean temple offers chic but pricey
house is particularly fascinating – even the decorated foodstuffs on two levels, plus an excellent wine bar and an
window is a wonder to behold.QA‑3, Opernring 13, upmarket restaurant-bar on the upper floor. If you crave for
MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 587 42 19, www.saedtler.at. Open any kind of food hard to get elsewhere in the city, try here.
09:00-19:00; Sat 09:00-17:00; closed Sun. The café downstairs is quite popular with both locals and
tourists.QB‑2, Graben 19, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1
532 33 34, www.meinlamgraben.at. Open 08:00-24:00;
GIFTS & SOUVENIRS Sat 09:00-24:00; closed Sun. Restaurant open 08:00-
AUGARTEN WIEN 24:00, Saturday 09:00-24:00; Wine bar open Mon-Sat
Augarten porcelain is famous for its delicate and graceful 11:00-24:00, Sun closed; Shop open Mon-Fri 08:00-
shape and exquisite details. Combining sophisticated 19:30, Sat 09:00-18:00.
craftsmanship, artistic design and the latest technical
equipment. Augarten uniquely blends time-honoured SCHÖNBICHLER
tradition with a contemporary approach to art. The finest Purveyors of finest tea, three generations of the
porcelain is still produced and hand painted at the Augarten Schönbichlers have run this opulent historic tea shop with
Castle.QH‑1, Spiegelgasse 3, MStephansplatz, tel. love and devotion since 1870. Black, green, herbal, white,
+43 1 512 14 94, www.augarten.at. Open 10:00-18:00; red, fruit teas, you name it, they’ve got it! It is also one
closed Sun. of very few places where you can experience authentic
English afternoon tea, or a traditional Japanese tea
ÖSTERREICHISCHE WERKSTÄTTEN ceremony. Exclusive liquors, as well as Japanese, Chinese
This large showcase store should be on your must- and German porcelain, and even Russian samovars are also
see list even if you decide not to buy anything. The sold here.QB‑2, Wollzeile 4, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1
choice of handmade jewellery, glassware, ceramics and 513 68 15, www.schoenbichler.at.
pewter is the largest in Vienna.QB‑2, Kärntnerstrasse
6, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 24 18, www.
austrianarts.com. Open 10:00-18:30; Sat 10:00-18:00;
closed Sun.
TAX-FREE SHOPPING
Citizens from outside the EU (and EU citizens resident
SWAROVSKI WIEN elsewhere) can save money by claiming a VAT refund
In the heart of the Austrian capital at Kärntner Strasse 24 a for the purchases while in Vienna. The Global Blue tax
fantastic world of crystal, the fusion of a stunning product refund service is easy to use. When buying an item at
spectrum and artistic installations, awaits you. Swarovski a shop, ask for a tax refund cheque. At the airport or
Wien entices into a shopping landscape on three levels border show this together with the item in question at
displaying jewelry, accessories, decor objects and figurines, the customs desk to get the cheque stamped, and then
invites to an exclusive Moët & Chandon Bar and enchants proceed to the Global Blue Customer desk with your
with magical installations from world renowned artists. passport for the cash or credit card refund. You’ll get the
QB‑2, Kärntner Strasse 24, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 VAT on these items refunded, minus a commission. For
1 324 00 00, www.swarovski.com/wien. Open 09:00- more information see www.global-blue.com.
21:00; Sat 09:00-18:00; closed Sun.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 49
Shopping
STAUD’S The flagship Vienna store at Stephensplatz is as wonderfully
Since 1947, the Staud family has been pampering the understated, elegant and essential as you would expect. As
Viennese and the world with the most exceptional fruit jams Viennese as Mozart, a visit should be part of every trip to
and preserves from this corner store on Yppenplatz and nearby the city.QB‑2, Stephansplatz 5, MStephansplatz, tel.
factory on Hubergasse. Hans Staud, the current owner, has +43 1 513 48 92, www.freywille.com. Open 10:00-19:00;
been in this business for forty years and still greets customers Sat 10:00-17:00; closed Sun. Also at Albertinaplatz 1/
in his original, though recently revitalized, marmalade Lobkowitzplatz 1.
emporium. Five million jars of amazing all-fruit preserves,
sliced fruit, syrups, chutneys, as well as a huge variety of
pickled vegetables are produced and shipped worldwide SPECIALTY SHOPS
every year.QE‑2, Brunnengasse/Schellhammergasse, ALTMANN & KÜHNE
MJosefstädterstrasse, tel. +43 1 406 88 05 21, www. A real pearl for all chocolate aficionados, Altmann &
stauds.com. Open Tue, Wed, Thu 08:00-12:30; Fri 08:00- Kühne sells tiny hand-made sweet sensations, called
12:30;15:30-18:00; Sat 08:00-12:30; closed Sun, Mon. Liliputkonfekt, that are just way too beautiful to be eaten.
Packed in colourful boxes, these pralines with decadent
XOCOLAT taste and silky texture will be a special and well-appreciated
This city has long been a sweet-tooth’s paradise, but gift to bring home. Located on Graben for over 100 years,
Xocolat with its eye-popping selection of truffles, the store used to supply chocolates to His Majesty himself
marzipans, nougats and filled chocolates in every shape - need we say more?QB‑2, Graben 30, MStephansplatz,
and form is about as exclusive as it gets. You are sure to get tel. +43 1 533 09 27, www.altmann-kuehne.at. Open
lured into this place and marvel at the sweet temptation. 09:00-18:30; Sat 10:00-17:00; closed Sun.
Just remember that decadence doesn’t come cheap.QA‑1,
Freyung Passage 2, MHerrengasse, tel. +43 1 535 43 63, ALT WIEN KAFFEERÖSTEREI
www.xocolat.at. Open 10:00-18:30; Sun 12:00-17:00; Sat Possibly the only professional coffee roaster in town, Old
10:00-18:00. Vienna lures customers with the irresistible aroma of
more than twenty different sorts of coffee roasted and
packaged for you right in the premises. From Old Vienna
HOME INTERIOR & DESIGN Gold to Jamaican Blue Mountain, a variety of blends
STILWERK WIEN would satisfy even the pickiest of the coffee lovers. Aroma-
Germany’s most luxurious chain of one-stop interior design protecting bags will ensure that your coffee remains fresh
department stores that operates in Berlin, Hamburg and long after you bring it home.QG‑3, Schleifmühlgasse
Düsseldorf has finally expanded south and set up a chic 23, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 505 08 00, www.altwien.at.
design centre in Vienna showcasing 28 stores on four levels. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00; closed Sun.
From bedroom accessories and garden furniture to kitchen
decorations and lighting - - find here all you need to make J&L LOBMEYR
your home or office modern, stylish and comfortable. This unique store was founded in 1823 and has become a
Furthermore you can enjoy the best steaks of the town in real legend on Vienna’s chic Kärntnerstrasse. It specializes
Argentinean ambiance at „El Gaucho“ Steakhouse.QC‑1, in mouth-blown glass, hand-cut glass, hand-painted
Praterstrasse 1, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 212 06 porcelain and not least in beautiful chandeliers proudly
10 50, www.stilwerk.at. Open Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri exhibited today at places like the Vienna State Opera, the
10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. Kremlin in Moscow and the Metropolitan Opera in New
York. Don’t miss the fascinating collection of their glass
TUCHLAUBEN museum on the third floor.QB‑2, Kärntnerstrasse 26,
The Lederleitner Home Concept Store offers high-quality MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 05 08, www.lobmeyr.
souvenirs and gifts, accessories, books, magazines and at. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Sun.
lifestyle products, contemporary furniture and home
decoration ideas for kitchen, living room and bathroom.
QTuchlauben 7a, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 537 11 WINE SHOPS
11, www.lederleitner.at. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00- WEIN & CO
18:00; closed Sun. With eight locations throughout the city, Wein & Co.
is Vienna’s largest chain of wine shops and bars. The
new flagship store on Mariahilferstrasse boasts a stylish
JEWELLERY & WATCHES wine bar and a restaurant with business lunch for
FREY WILLE under €10 on weekdays. Other central branches are at
Founded right here in Vienna in 1951, Frey Wille has Jasomirgottstrasse 3-5 (M Stephansplatz), Universitätsring
become one of the world’s best-loved contemporary 12 (M Schottentor), and Getreidemarkt 1 (M Karlsplatz).
jewellers. Its colourful creations, based on 19th and 20th QF‑3, Mariahilferstrasse 36, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43
century works of art are instantly recognisable and can 1 507 063 022, www.weinco.at. Open 10:00-02:00; Sun
now be bought at more than 90 shops across the globe. 15:00-24:00.
50 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Wellness & Beauty

Therme Wien | © Therme Wien

The modern world seems to be moving at a million miles THERMELAA


per hour (approximately 1609344 kilometres), so looking About 80 kilometres north of Vienna on the Czech border,
after yourself has never been more important. Vienna has a this spa may be well off the beaten path for many visitors,
wealth of healthy and beauty facilities ready to accomplish but whether you decide to stay in the on-site hotel or go
that very goal, from massage spots designed to ease that out for the day by train or car, ThermeLaa is one of the most
dreaded tension all the way to salons for the finer things inviting spas in the area. With both indoor and outdoor
in life. thermal baths heated at different temperatures, you can
relax in both rain and shine. The sauna area offers several
A&M’S HAIRLOUNGE saunas and steam baths, and the themed “Aufgusse” add
A&M’s, in the city center not far from the Rathaus and a touch of class to an already top-notch establishment.
Parliament, has a friendly and highly skilled team that After spending time in the saunas, float in the twin-size
will allow you to take a break from the daily grind to be waterbeds in the relaxation room.QThermenplatz 3, Laa
welcomed into a unique wellness oasis with quality an der Thaya, tel. +43 2522 84 70 00, www.therme-laa.
products for your hair and scalp. The friendly staff is fluent at. Open 09:00-22:00. Admission €28/19.
English and several other languages. Appointments
by telephone preferred.QG‑2, Bartensteingasse 4, ST. MARTINS SPA & LODGE
MVolkstheater, tel. +43 1 403 96 44, www.hair-lounge. Situated directly on an idyllic lake, this lovely spa complex
at. Open 10:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun, Mon. has a modern selection of wellness treatments, thermal
baths and relaxation rooms. There’s a market restaurant
AUX GAZELLES and a private beach area on the lake with a beach bar, with
In an oriental setting, Aux Gazelles offers an all-in-one fireplaces indoors for the winter months.QIm Seewinkel 1,
service for body and mind. In addition to the classical Frauenkirchen, tel. +43 0 217 220 500, www.stmartins.at.
hammam (oriental steam bath with body peeling and Open 09:00-22:00. Admission for a day €28, children €15-
massages) you can relax in one of the cosy niches in classic 17; reductions for evening and 3-hour tickets.
Bedouin-style and try a traditional Arabic water pipe.
Not enough? Then grab a cocktail and enjoy some great THAI THERAPY
Arabian rhythms at Aux Gazelles bar and club. Located Bangkok’s Wat Po Medical School is one of the most
between Naschmarkt and the Museum Quarter.QA‑3, prestigious on the planet, so you can rest assured that
Rahlgasse 5, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 585 66 45, the service at Vienna’s Thai Therapy is truly top notch. The
www.auxgazelles.at. Open 11:00-02:00; closed Sun. traditional Thai massage is the main offer, the perfect venue
through which to loosen joints and get your body in order.
RÖMERTHERME Booking ahead is absolutely recommended, although don’t
Baden, 35km southwest of Vienna, has been known for be afraid to nip in and see what is available.QWiedner
its thermal springs since the Romans ruled the area, and Hauptstraße 53, tel. +43 (0)660 88 555 88, www.
during the days of the monarchy, such prominent figures thaitherapy.at. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-20:00.
as Mozart and Beethoven were known to frequent the
spas. The building itself is beautifully designed and the THERME WIEN
pools, heated at different temperatures, are a soothing A modern spa, just 30 minutes by metro and tram from the
respite. The sauna area is extensive and costs more, but city centre. It has large, warm indoor and outdoor pools
is worth the extra couple of euros. Furthermore, the with light-projections on the surrounding trees and classical
massages are professional and just may be the icing music playing underwater. Saunas and steam rooms too.
on your cake.QBrusattiplatz 4, Baden, tel. +43 2252 Take tram N°67 from Reumannplatz.QKurbadstrasse 14,
450 30, www.roemertherme.at. Open 10:00-22:00. tel. +43 1 680 09, www.thermewien.at. Open 09:00-
Admission €14,3. 22:00; Sun 08:00-22:00. €27,40/17,50.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 51
Hotels

© InterContinental Wien

Many of the big, traditional hotels are located near the CAPRICORNO
Ringstrasse, which circles Vienna´s city centre. The room At Hotel Capricorno you are ‘life inside’ the centre of Vienna.
prices that we list are rack rates; the price you pay may The hotel located at the Donaukanal presents itself colourful
be different depending on the season, holidays, weekend and cheerful; multi-coloured like life, just a few walking
offers, and special events. minutes away from St. Stephan’s cathedral. Restaurants,
coffees, bars and the nightlife at the ‘Bermuda Triangle’ as well
as metro, tram the Twin-City-Liner are just around the corner.
HOTELS QC‑1, Schwedenplatz 3-4, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 1
ALTSTADT VIENNA 53 33 10 4 0, www.schick-hotels.com. A­P­G­L­W
The Altstadt is a meeting place for artists, musicians and
travellers looking for a characteristic hotel with good CITY CENTRAL
service. Art can be found all over the hotel, from the The Hotel City Central is the ‚smart’ choice for your
reception and the rooms to the exhibitions in the Red holiday in the centre of Vienna at an attractive price-
Salon. The rooms are all different, with high ceilings, plump performance ratio. Very special attention is given to the
floral sofas, classic and designer furniture, honey-coloured rich breakfast buffet as well as to apartments and family
parquet floors, unusual lighting and contemporary art. rooms perfectly suitable for families.QC‑1, Taborstrasse
The English-style Red Salon accommodates the superb 8, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 21 10 50, www.schick-
breakfast buffet as well as a bar, where you can relax by hotels.com. A­P­G­T­U­L­W
the fireplace.QF‑3, Kirchengasse 41, MVolkstheater,
tel. +43 1 522 66 66, www.altstadt.at. 42 rooms (singles
€119-169, doubles: €139-209, suites €169-369). A­G­
SYMBOL KEY
T­W T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
BRISTOL P Air conditioning H Conference facilities
The Bristol has welcomed many guests of international O Casino M Nearest U/S-Bahn station
standing, and its Bristol Lounge restaurant is well-known for
being one of the city’s best. Be sure to request a room with F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms
a balcony facing the opera, or book one of the impressive K Restaurant R Internet W Wi-Fi
tower suites.  QB‑3, Kärntner Ring 1, MKarlsplatz, tel.
D Sauna L Guarded parking
+ 43 1 51 51 60, www.starwoodhotels.com. 150 rooms
(doubles €269-364, suites €509-4,400). A­P­G­T­ C Swimming pool A Credit cards accepted
U­R­W­K­H­F
52 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Hotels
HILTON VIENNA PLAZA
Experienced travellers would always know what to expect
from a Hilton, and this one smack in the middle of Vienna
next to the university and the stock exchange is no
exception. Rooms are traditionally but tastefully decorated.
Amenities include two restaurants, a stylish bar, excellent
fitness and recreation facilities, as well as a business centre.
QB‑1, Schottenring 11, MM Schottentor, tel. +43 1 31
39 00, www.hilton.de/wienplaza. A­P­G­U

HOTEL AM PARKRING
The finest views of the city from the highest building
along the historic ‘Ringstrasse’. The 55 elegant rooms and
Hotel am Parkring © Schick Hotels Wien suites with roof-deck of this boutique-hotel as well as the
gourmet restaurant ‘Das Schick’, all situated in the 11th to
DAS OPERNRING 13th floor, guarantee a magnificent panoramic view over
This beautiful hotel located opposite the Staatsoper is the the rooftops of Vienna. QC‑2, Parkring 12, MStubentor,
ideal place for anyone with an eye for comfort and taste. The tel. +43 1 51 48 00, www.schick-hotels.com. 55 rooms
rooms are comfortably furnished, and the service is high (single/doubles/suites €135-537). A­P­G­L­W­
quality. Gourmets and party animals just need to descend K­H
to the basement, where there’s the restaurant “…said the
Butcher to the Cow” as well as the Platzhirsch Club.QA‑3, HOTEL AM STEPHANSPLATZ
Opernring 11, MM Karlsplatz, tel. +43 1 587 55 18, www. It’s impossible to get any more central - St. Stephen’s
opernring.at. 47 rooms (singles/doubles €129-149). Cathedral is 56 steps from the main door, and the
city’s pedestrian zone is at your feet. A good place to
ERZHERZOG RAINER meet for business or to start exploring the city.QB‑2,
Central located, in the well known ‘Freihausviertel’ Stephansplatz 9, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 53 40
and in walking distance to the Vienna State Opera, 50, www.hotelamstephansplatz.at. 56 rooms (doubles
individual conveniences of the guests are the employee’s €160-240; suites €260-380). A­P­G­T­U­W­K
most concerns. Viennese charm and outstanding
Austrian hospitality await you in 79 rooms and a hotel- HOTEL DE FRANCE
owned restaurant ‘Wiener Wirtschaft’.QA‑4, Wiedner This delightful five-star hotel in the banking district
Hauptstrasse 27-29, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 221 11, spoils its guests with old-world charm: rooms and suites
www.schick-hotels.com. A­P­G­T­L­W­K­H are decorated in the tradition and style of the late 19th
and early 20th century. If you really feel like splurging,
GRAND HOTEL book an all-inclusive Suite Dream with breakfast buffet,
This hotel is a reminder of the pomp and grandeur that champagne and limousine service. QA‑1, Schottenring 3,
defined the Austrian Empire. If the exterior of the hotel MSchottentor, tel. +43 1 31 36 80, www.austria-hotels.
doesn’t awe you, the marble and the exquisite five-star at/hotel-de-france. A­P­G­U­H
service inside will. QB‑3, Kärntner Ring 9, MKarlsplatz,
tel. +43 1 51 58 00, www.grandhotelwien.com. 225 IMPERIAL
rooms (doubles €239-320, suites €720-2,150). A­P­ One of the finest hotels in town, this is where foreign state
G­T­U­W­K­H visitors reside. Precious antiques and historical details are
seamlessly combined with modern comfort in the rooms.
There’s butler service for that hand-ironed newspaper or
LES CLEFS D’OR perfectly prepared bath. It’s also one of the most beautiful
buildings on the Ringstrasse, enhanced at night by its
Concierges that are members of the facade lighting.QC‑2, Kärntner Ring 16, MKarlsplatz,
“Les Clefs d’Or” international concierge tel. +43 1 50 11 00, www.starwoodhotels.com. 138
association (Union Internationale des rooms (doubles €359-477, suites €400-5,000). A­P­
Concierges d’Hotel) can be recognised by G­U­B­R­W­K­H
the crossed gold keys on their lapels. This means that you
are dealing with a professionally trained concierge who INTERCONTINENTAL
has built up the skills and contacts to open doors for you This large and modern hotel overlooking the Stadtpark
throughout the city and indeed the world. They should manages to combine Viennese charm with international
have a quick reply to any question or request you have. flair. The well-furnished rooms are of excellent standards,
Hotels that have a concierge who is a Clefs D’Or member but it’s the impeccable service, the knowledgeable
are marked with golden keys symbol in this chapter. concierge, the Café Vienna in the lobby, the popular
Intermezzo American cocktail and oyster bar and the Club
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 53
Hotels
Lounge with great views over the city centre that keep SACHER
businesspeople and tourists alike and coming back again The famous Sacher Hotel was first opened in 1876 by
and again.QC‑3, Johannesgasse 28, MStadtpark, tel. Eduard Sacher. Since 1934 the Gürtler family has owned it,
+43 1 71 12 20, www.vienna.intercontinental.com. 459 working hard to preserve the tradition and elegance. The
rooms (doubles €179-249, suites €329-479). A­P­G­ hotel is widely known for providing scenery for The Third
U­R­W­K­H­F Man film and for its Sachertorte chocolate cake. The red-
clad doormen will usher you inside, where you can admire
LE MÉRIDIEN the imperial grandeur, dating back to the times of Prince
The modern majesty of Le Meridien’s restaurant is reason Metternich.QB‑3, Philharmonikerstrasse 4, MKarlsplatz,
enough to rendezvous here. The hotel appeals to all your tel. +43 1 51 45 60, www.sacher.com. 152 rooms (doubles
senses, the modern, colourful décor draws you in like a €465-678, suites €820-2,540). A­P­G­R­W­K
moth to a flame. It is near to just about everything and
offers a range of inviting amenities and state of the art SOFITEL VIENNA STEPHANSDOM
facilities, such as fitness facilities, sauna and Jacuzzi.QA‑3, This ultra-modern hotel by the Danube Canal stands for
Opernring 13, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 58 89 00, www. French hospitality at its best. Its state-of-the-art rooms are
starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien. 334 rooms (singles/ impeccably designed, and the views of the city from Le
doubles €189-409, suites €489-1199). A­P­G­X­U­ Loft restaurant on the top floor are breathtaking. Business
B­R­W­K­D­F facilities include ten light and airy conference rooms, and
there’s a fitness centre and spa.QC‑1, Praterstrasse 1,
MELIA VIENNA MM Schwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 90 61 60, www.sofitel.
Perched high up in the Danube City Tower, Austria’s tallest com. A­P­G­U­K­H­F
building, the Melia is a designer hotel with chic rooms,
great service and restaurants and fabulous views. The STANYS HOTEL & APARTMENTS
business district is at the foot of the building, the city centre The new Stanys apartment hotel has some of the largest
a short hop by metro away, and you can while the night rooms and apartments in central Vienna, available for both
away at the unique rooftop bar.QDonau-City-Straße 7, long and short terms stays. Rooms are fresh and modern
MKaisermühlen/VIC, tel. +43 19 01 04, www.melia. and come with free drinks in the fridge and a Cafisimo
com. Doubles from €125. A­P­U­W­K­H­i machine. Most apartments have a kitchenette, some also
feature south-facing balconies for chilled-out breaks and
PALAIS COBURG great city views.QMariahilfer Str. 161, MWestbahnhof,
The Palais Coburg offers culture and luxury comfort to its tel. +43 1 893 08 93, www.stanys.at. 36 rooms and
guests in a very elegant ambiance. Furthermore, this is the apartments (€ 72,- € 220,-). L­W
place to go for luxury culinary indulgence, and it’s famous
for housing the city’s largest wine cellars. On Saturday STEFANIE
nights, enjoy a presentation of rare wines while listening to The oldest hotel of Vienna vouches for 400 years of personal
live jazz at the wine bar. At this exclusive hotel only suites atmosphere. Today, the hotel—only a few minutes’ walk
are available.QC‑2, Coburgbastei 4, MStubentor, tel. from the 1st district, the historic centre of Vienna —
+43 1 51 81 80, www.coburg.at. 34 rooms (suites €670- presents itself as a successful combination of old and new.
2,700). A­P­G­U­B­R­W­K 111 stylish rooms with air conditioning and WLAN (free of
charge), three conference rooms, as well as the restaurant
PALAIS HANSEN KEMPINSKI ‘Stefanie’ form the framework for a pleasant stay in Vienna.
Originally built for the 1873 World Exhibition, this grand QC‑1, Taborstrasse 12, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 21
and glamorous hotel sets the standards when it comes 15 00, www.schick-hotels.com. A­P­G­T­L­W­
to room comfort, service and food. The styling is a mix K­H
of historical elements and modern luxury, with plenty of
marble, fine fabrics and contemporary design. The city
centre is a short walk away from the northern Ringstrasse
location.QSchottenring 24, MSchottenring, tel. +43 1
236 10 00, www.kempinski.com/vienna. Doubles from
€350. A­P­G­U­J­W­i

PARK HYATT VIENNA


This new luxurious hotel occupies a very grand 1915 bank
building in the historical city centre. The business facilities
here are exceptional, but leisure visitors will also find plenty
to their liking, with large rooms, a spa with indoor pool
and The Bank restaurant and Pearl bar for winding down.
QA‑1/2, Am Hof 2, MU Herrengasse, tel. +43 1 227 40
12 34, www.vienna.park.hyatt.com. Hotel Stefanie © Schick Hotels Wien

54 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com


Hotels
THE RITZ-CARLTON, VIENNA
Four palatial mansion along Vienna’s Ring have been MEET THE CONCIERGE
transformed into the city’s newest top hotel, where historical
elements blend in nicely with modern architecture. The Ritz-
Carlton, Vienna has everything you’d expect from a 5-star,
such as large rooms, restaurants and bars, and a deluxe spa
and fitness centre with an 18m-long pool with underwater
music.QB‑3, Schubertring 5-7, tel. +43 1 31 18 88, www.
ritzcarlton.com. 202 rooms (159 singles/doubles €265-
420, 43 suites €575-1,070). A­P­J­W­K­i

VIENNA MARRIOTT HOTEL


One of the nicest Marriott hotels we’ve seen on our travels.
In addition to the great service, this particular hotel stands
out as it is one of the few with a pool. It is located just across
the street from the Stadtpark, a great place to relax.QC‑2,
Parkring 12a, MStubentor, tel. +43 1 51 51 80, www. How did you become a concierge/receptionist,
viennamarriott.com. 323 rooms (prices on request). and at which hotels did you work?
A­P­G­X­R­W­K­H­C­F I started my hotel career in the former Courtyard by
Marriott Graz as a part of my ÖHV Hotel Management
VIENNA URBAN RESORT HOTEL Kolleg in Semmering. I moved to Vienna 4,5 years ago
A design hotel within walking distance of Schönbrunn and started as a Front Office Agent - 4 months later I
Palace and near Westbahnhof station. The hotel’s facade is joined the Concierge team as Concierge Assistant.
a special work of art, designed by famous local architect Today I am in charge of our Concierge and lobby team.
Heribert Thanner. It also hosts the trendy Italian Capa Tosta What makes your hotel special, different from others?
restaurant, known for its authentic Neapolitan pizza.QC‑4, It is not just our location, situated in the heart of Vienna's
Sechshauserstr. 83, MSchönbrunn, tel. 892 13 87, www. old city, just 250 m away from the Hofburg with perfect
urbanresorthotel.at. 43 rooms (singles €69-95, doubles access by car and connection to public transportation
€78-120). A­G­T­U­W­K – it is our staff’s passion to turn a pleasant stay into a
precious memory.
HOSTELS What unusual, strange or funny requests have you
HOSTEL RUTHENSTEINER had from guests?
This friendly and hospitable backpacker’s paradise has A nice couple asked me at check in if I can organise
provided travellers with an artsy urban oasis for decades. their wedding for 200 people within 3 days. I found a
The family-run hostel’s sweeping bar, unique patio furniture location, got a white wedding carriage and booked
and oversized chess and backgammon sets in the verdant florist and photographer all on time. Most importantly
garden area - all handcrafted by avid woodworker-owner - they are still married and happy.
Walter - along with the array of musical instruments in the Which restaurants, outside the hotel, do you
common room, helpful staff, clean facilities and reasonable recommend to guests?
rates invite visitors to relax and rendezvous.QE‑4, Robert One of my favourite restaurants to recommend is
Hamerlinggasse 24, MWestbahnhof, tel. +43 1 893 42 Vestibül inside of the Burgtheater. Wonderful team,
02, www.hostelruthensteiner.com. unique location and delicious lobster with creamy
cabbage - the signature dish by Mr. Domschitz.
WOMBAT’S
Which unusual Vienna sights would you
Wombat’s offers several different types of rooms, from
recommend to guests who have already seen the
single to six-bed set ups, and also features a great
main sights?
lounge area upstairs and a bar downstairs. There is
I am a huge fan of the Otto Wagner Church. I love the
always an international group of people staying at
whole area at “Steinhofgründe” and Wilhelminenberg, as
Wombat’s, so branch out and meet new people.QE‑4,
this is showing a different and unknown side of Vienna.
Mariahilferstrasse137, MWestbahnhof, tel. +43 1 897
23 36, www.wombats-hostels.com. 80 rooms (doubles How does the Vienna In Your Pocket city guide
€29 per person, triples €25 per person, dorm beds €20). help you do your Job?
A­R It is the perfect give away for guests who still prefer a
convenient printed guide in our digital century.

Full contents online: Michael Hofer


vienna.inyourpocket.com Head Concierge in Steigenberger Herrenhof

facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 55


Directory
DENTISTS EMERGENCIES
DR. ROBERT SCHERNGELL
QF‑3, Mariahilferstrasse 128/5, tel. +43 1 522 19 66. Police tel. 133
Ambulance tel. 144
PRIM. DR. HANNES LEMBACHER Fire Department tel. 122
QB‑2, Rotenturmstrasse 27, tel. +43 1 533 55 81.

DOCTORS MOVES CONSULTING


DR. GOTTFRIED HÖNLINGER QF‑2, Albertgasse 34/8, tel. +43 1 956 58 31, www.
QI‑1, Stuwerstrasse 22, tel. +43 1 728 00 91. moves-consulting.com

RANDOS RELOCATION AND OFFICE SERVICE


EXPAT SERVICES QI‑1, Praterstrasse 66/1/76b, tel. +43 1 71 03 31 80, fax
EXPAT CENTER VIENNA +43 1 710 33 18 34, www.relocation.at.
The municipality’s excellent one-stop-shop for all advice
expats may need.QG‑2, Schmerlingplatz 3, tel. +43 1 RECOM RELOCATION COMPANY
400 08 69 49, www.expatcenter.at. Open 09:00-16:00; QHohenauergasse 3/6, tel. +43 1 409 24 62, fax +43 1
Fri 09:00-12:00; closed Sun, Sat. 406 73 45, www.recom-relocation.at.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS PRIVATE UNIVERSITIES


AMERICAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF KONSERVATORIUM WIEN
VIENNA German and foreign-language courses. 850 students,
American curriculum, 800 students from 60 nations, a third of them international students in 25 academic
about 50% Americans, age groups kindergarten and 6-18. programs.QH‑3, Johannesgasse 4a, MKarlsplatz, tel.
QSalmannsdorfer Straße 47, tel. +43 1 40 13 20, www. +43 1 51 27 74 70, www.konservatorium-wien.ac.at.
ais.at.
LAUDER BUSINESS SCHOOL
DANUBE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Linked to the Lauder Institute at the University of
400 students, age-groups kindergarten and 6-18.QJosef Pennsylvania, with a Jewish religious background. Programs
Gall Gasse 2, tel. +43 1 720 31 10, www.danubeschool.at. in International Marketing & Management, Intercultural
Business Administration and Intercultural Management
LYCÉE FRANÇAIS DE VIENNE and Leadership.QHofzeile 18-20, tel. +43 1 369 18 18,
Follows the French curriculum for schools abroad. www.lbs.ac.at.
1800 students, age-groups kindergarten and 6-18.
The kindergarten and primary school are located at MODUL PRIVATE UNIVERSITY
Grinzingerstraße 95.QG‑1, Lichtensteinstraße 37a, tel. Founded by the Vienna Chamber of Commerce;
+43 1 317 22 41, www.lyceefrancais.at. offers bachelor and master degree programs in
the fields of Tourism and Hospitality Management,
VIENNA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Public Governance, New Media Technology and
1400 students from about 100 nations, age-groups 6-18 Management and Sustainable Development. 250
years. Admission preference for children of employees of students.QAm Kahlenberg 1, tel. +43 1 32 03 55 52
the UN or other international organisations.QStraße der 02, www.modul.ac.at.
Menschenrechte 1, MKagran, tel. +43 1 20 35 59 50,
www.vis.ac.at. SIGMUND FREUD UNIVERSITY
Bachelor and master degree courses in psychology as well
as a rare psychotherapy master program. 270 students.
RELOCATION COMPANIES QSchnirchgasse 9a, MErdberg, www.sfu.ac.at.
EXECUTIVE RELOCATIONS AUSTRIA (ERA)
QF‑2, Stolzenthalergasse 5/2/12, tel. +43 699 11 55 93 WEBSTER VIENNA PRIVATE UNIVERSITY
24, www.era-relocation.com. Part of a worldwide network of Webster universities
offering bachelor, master and MBA degree courses in the
EXPAT CONSULTING REAL ESTATE & fields of business and management, international relations,
RELOCATION SERVICES media communications and psychology. All courses are
QB‑2, Graben 7/8, tel. +43 1 32 88 81 80, fax +43 1 328 taught in English.QPraterstrasse 23, MNestroyplatz, tel.
88 18 60, www.expat-consulting.com. +43 1 269 9293 0, www.webster.ac.at.

56 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com


Street Register
Abelegasse D2 Große Neugasse A4 Krugerstraße B3 Paulanergasse A4 Spanische Hofreitschule A 2
Adolf-Blamauer-Gasse I4 Große Schiffgasse B1 Krummbaumgasse B1 Payergasse E2 Spengergasse F4
AKH F1 Große Sperlgasse C1 Kumpfgasse B2 Peregringasse A1 Spiegelgasse B2
Albertina B2 Grünangergasse B2 Kundmanngasse I3 Peterskirche B2 Spitalgasse F1
Alliogasse D3 Grundsteingasse D 2-E 2 Kunsthaus Wien I2 Petrarcagasse A2 Stadtpark C2
Alserstraße F1 Grünentorgasse G1 Kunsthistorisches Museum A 3 Pezzlgasse E1 Stanislausgasse I3
Altes AKH Campus F1 Gumpendorferstraße A3 Künstlerhaus B3 Pfeilgasse E 2-F 2 Stephansdom B2
Am Heumarkt C3 Gumpendorferstraße E 4-G 3 Lagergasse C3 Piaristengasse F2 Stephansplatz B2
Am Hof B1 Gußhausstraße B4 Laimgrubengasse A3 Pilgramgasse F 4-G 4 Stiftgasse F3
Antonigasse E1 Gutenberggasse G2 Landesgerichtsstraße F2 Plankengasse B2 Stohlberggasse G4
Arbeitergasse F4 Haberlgasse E2 Landhausgasse A2 Plößlgasse B4 Stollgasse E 3-F 3
Arenbergpark I3 Habsburgergasse B2 Landskrongasse B2 Porezellangasse G1 Strauchgasse A2
Argentinierstraße B4 Hafnersteig C2 Landstraßer Gürtel I4 Possingergasse D2 Straußengasse A4
Arsenal I4 Haidgasse C1 Lange Gasse F2 Pramergasse G1 Straußengasse G4
Auer-Welsbach-Park D4 Halbgasse E3 Lassallestraße I1 Prater I1 Strohgasse C3
Auf der Schmelz D3 Hamerlingpark F2 Laudongasse E 2-F 2 Praterstraße C1 Strozzigasse F2
Augarten H1 Hammer-Purgstall-Gasse C 1 Lazarettgasse F1 Predigergasse C2 Stubenring C2
Auwinkel C2 Hasnerstraße D2 Leopold Figl Gasse A2 Preßgasse A4 Stumpergasse E 3-F 4
Babenbergerstraße A3 Hauptallee I1 Leopold-Ernst-Gasse E1 Prinz Eugen Straße B4 Taborstraße C1
Bäckerstraße B2 Haus der Musik B3 Leopoldsgasse C1 Radetzkystzraße I2 Tandelmarktgasse C1
Bankgasse A2 Haus des Meeres F3 Leopoldsgasse H1 Rahlgasse A3 Taubstummengasse B4
Barichgasse I3 Heeresgeschichtliches Lerchenfeldergürtel E2 Rauchfangkehrergasse D4 Technisches Museum Wien
Bauernmarkt B2 Museum I4 Lerchenfelderstraße E 2-F 2 Rauhensteingasse B2 D4
Beatrixgasse C3 Hegelgasse B3 Lerchengasse F2 Rechte Bahngasse C3 Teinfaltstraße A1
Beheimgasse E1 Heinestraße I1 Liebenberggasse C2 Rechte Wienzeile A3 Thaliastraße D 2-E 2
Belvedere C4 Heinrichsgasse B1 Liechtensteinmuseum G1 Rechte Wienzeile F 4-G 3 Theater in der Josefstadt F 2
Belvedergasse H4 Heldenplatz A2 Liechtensteinpark G1 Reindorfgasse E4 Theresianum H4
Berggasse G1 Helferstorferstraße A1 Liechtensteinstraße G1 Reinprechtsdorferstraße F 4 Theresianumgasse B4
Bernardgasse E2 Herbststraße D2 Lilienbrunngasse C1 Reisnerstraße C3 Thurngasse G1
Biberstraße C2 Hermanngasse F3 Lindauergasse E2 Reithoferplatz E3 Tiefer Graben B1
Blindengasse E2 Hernalsergürtel E2 Lindengasse F3 Rembrandtstraße H1 Tigergasse F2
Blumengasse E1 Herrengasse A2 Liniengasse E 4-F 4 Renngasse A1 Tuchlauben B2
Bognergasse B2 Herrmanngasse E3 Linke Wienzeile E 4-G 3 Rennweg C4 Türkenstraße G1
Boltzmanngasse G1 Hetzgasse I2 Loeschenkohlgasse D3 Riemergasse B2 Ungargasse I3
Börsegasse A1 Heumühlgasse A4 Löhrgasse E3 Rockhgasse A1 Universität A1
Börseplatz A1 Heymerlegasse D2 Lothringerstraße C3 Rooseveltplatz A1 Untere Augartenstraße H 1
Bösendorferstraße B3 Himmelpfortgasse B2 Löwelstraße A2 Rosenbursenstraße C2 Untere Donaustraße C1
Botanischer Garten C4 Hintere Zollamtsstraße I2 Löwengasse I2 Roßauer Lände G1 Untere Weißgerberlände I 2
Brandstätte B2 Hofburg A2 Mahlerstraße B3 Rotensterngasse C1 Urania C1
Brunnenmarkt E2 Hofmühlgasse F4 Mak C2 Rotenturmstraße B2 Uraniastraße C1
Burggarten A2 Hohenstaufengasse A1 Marc Aurel Straße B1 Rotgasse B2 Vereinsgasse I1
Burggasse E 3-G 3 Hollandstraße B1 Margaretengürtel F4 Rubensgasse A4 Veronikagasse E 2-E 1
Burgring A2 Hollergasse D4 Margaretenstraße A4 Rudolfsplatz B1 Vogelweidplatz E3
Cobdengasse C2 Hörlgasse A1 Margaretenstraße F 4-G 3 Rudolfstiftung I3 Volksgarten A2
Dampfschiffstraße I2 Huglgasse D3 Mariahilfer Gürtel E4 Rueppgasse I1 Vordere Zollamtsstraße I2
Danhausergasse B4 Hundertwasserhaus I2 Mariahilferstraße A3 Salesianergasse C3 Vorlaufstraße B1
Danhausergasse H4 Hütteldorferstraße D 3-E 3 Mariahilferstraße D 4-G 3 Salvatorgasse B1 Votivkirche A1
Dinglstedgasse E4 Jakobergasse C2 Mariahilferstraße D 4-G 3 Salzgries B1 Währinger Straße A1
Dominikanerbastei C2 Jaurèsgasse C4 Mariannengasse F1 Salztorgasse B1 Währingergürtel E2
Donaukanal Bundesstraße B 1 Johannesgasse C3 Maria-Theresien-Straße A 1 Schallautzerstraße C2 Walfischgasse B3
Dorotheergasse B2 Johnstraße D 4-D 3 Markgraf-Rüdiger-Straße E 3 Schauflergasse A2 Walkürengasse D3
Dr. Karl Lueger Ring A1 Jörgerstraße E1 Marxergasse I2 Schaumburgergasse B4 Waltergasse B4
Esterhazygasse F3 Josefsplatz A2 Märzstraße D3 Schaumburgergasse G4 Wasagasse G1
Fahnengasse A2 Josefstädterstraße E 2-F 2 Metternichgasse C4 Schellhammergasse E2 Wattgasse D2
Falkenstraße C2 Josef-Strauss-Park E2 Millergasse F4 Schellinggasse B3 Webgasse F 3-F 4
Färbergasse B1 Juchgasse I3 Mittersteig G4 Schikanedergasse A3 Wehrgasse A4
Fasangasse I4 Kaiserin-Elisabeth Spital D 3 Mollardgasse E 4-F 4 Schleifmühlgasse A3 Wehrgasse G4
Favoritenstraße B4 Kaiserstraße E3 Mostgasse A4 Schlösslgasse F2 Weihburggasse B2
Felberstraße D 4-E 3 Kalvariengasse E1 Mostgasse G4 Schlüsselgasse B4 Weintraubengasse C1
Feldgasse F2 Kandlgasse E 3-F 3 Mozartgasse B4 Schmalzhofgasse F3 Weißgerberlände I2
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Fischerstiege B1 Karlskirche B3 Musikverein B3 Schmöllergasse B4 Westbahnhof E3
Fleischmarkt B2 Karlsplatz B3 Naturhistorisches Musem A 2 Schönbornpark F2 Westbahnstraße E 3-F 3
Floragasse B4 Karmelitergasse C1 Negerlegasse C1 Schönbrunnerstraße E 4-G 3 Weyringergasse H4
Florianigasse E 2-F 2 Kärntner Ring B3 Neubaugasse F3 Schönlaterngasse C2 Wichtelgasse D2
Floßgasse B1 Kärntnerstaße B3 Neubaugürtel E3 Schottenbastei A1 Wickenburggasse F2
Frankenberggasse B4 Karolinengasse C4 Neuer Markt B2 Schottenfeldgasse F3 Wiedner Gürtel H4
Franzenbrückenstraße I1 Karolinengasse H4 Neulerchenfelderstraße Schottengasse A1 Wiedner Hauptstraße A4
Franzensgasse A4 Kegelgasse I2 D 2-E 2 Schottenring A1 Wiener Konzerthaus C3
Franz-Hochedlinger-Gasse H 1 Kettenbrückengasse A4 Neulinggasse C3 Schrankgasse F3 Wiener Naschmarkt A3
Franz-Josefs-Kai B1 Kirchengasse F3 Neustiftgasse E 2-G 2 Schubertring B3 Wiesingerstraße C2
Fugbachgasse I1 Klagbaumgasse A4 Neutorgasse B1 Schulerstraße B2 Winkelmannstraße D4
Fugbachgasse I1 Klagbaumgasse G4 Nordbahnstraße I1 Schwarzenbergplatz B3 Wipplingerstraße A1
Führichgasse B2 Kleine Mohrengasse C1 Nußdorferstraße F1 Schwarzenbergstraße B3 Witzelsbergerstraße D3
Gablenzgasse D 2-E 3 Kleine Neugasse A4 Obere Augartenstraße H1 Schwedenplatz C1 Wohllebengasse B4
Gartengasse G4 Kleine Neugasse G4 Obere Donaustraße B1 Schweizer Garten I4 Wollzeile C2
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Geblergasse E1 Kolingasse A1 Oeverseestraße D3 Sechshauser Straße E 4-D 4 Zaunergasse C3
Getreidemarkt A3 Kolschitzkygasse H4 Oper B3 Seidengasse E 3-F 3 Zentagasse G4
Girardigasse A3 Komödiengasse C1 Opernring A3 Seilergasse B2 Ziegelofengasse A4
Gluckgasse B2 Königsklostergasse A3 Oppolzergasse A1 Seilerstätte B2 Ziegelofengasse G4
Goldschlagstraße D 3-E 3 Koppstraße D 2-E 2 Ostarichipark F1 Sensengasse F1 Zieglergasse F3
Gonzagagasse B1 Köstlergasse A3 Ottakringer Brauerei D2 Siebenbrunnengasse G4 Zinckgasse E3
Graf Stahemberg Gasse B 4 Kretinergasse D2 Ottakringer Straße D 2-E 1 Siebensterngasse F3 Zirkusgasse C1
Griechengasse B1 Kreuzgasse E1 Otto Bauer Gasse F3 Sigmund Freud Museum G 1 Zollergasse F3
Grimmgasse D4 Krieglergasse I2 Paniglgasse B3 Singerstraße B2
Große Mohrengasse C1 Krongasse A4 Parkring C2 Skodagasse F2
Große Naugasse G4 Krongasse G4 Parlament A2 Sonnenfelsgasse B2

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G H I
Index
1019 Jazzclub 37 Do & Co 24 Le Méridien 54 Schönbichler 49
1516 37 Donau 32 Lemmon 34 Secession 44
Albertina 40 Dots 22 Leopold Museum 42 Shanghai Tan 24
Albertina Passage Dinner Club Down Under 37 Lisboa Lounge 31 Shebeen 37
 26 Dual 35 Loos Bar 33 Siam 31
Al Fayrooz 28 Eagle Bar 35 Lugeck 20 Sigmund Freud Museum 44
Altmann & Kühne 50 El Gaucho 22 Luster Bar 33 Silberwirt 21
Altstadt Vienna 52 Erzherzog Rainer 53 Madame Tussauds 42 Sing Your Song 34
Alt Wien Kaffeerösterei 50 Fabios 28 Mama Liu & Sons 22 Sofitel Vienna Stephansdom
A&M's Hairlounge 51 Figls 20 Maschu Maschu 30  54
Architekturzentrum Wien 41 Flanagans 37 Mast 33, 45 Sole 28
Arnold’s 48 Flex 35 Matiki Bar 33 Spanische Hofreitschule 40
Augarten Wien 49 Fluc 35 Medusa 26 Spear 27
Aux Gazelles 51 Freiraum 34 Melia Vienna 54 Stanys Hotel & Apartments 54
Bangkok Vienna 31 Frey Wille 50 Mercado 28 Staud's 50
Bank Austria Kunstforum Wien Fuhrgassl Huber 45 Michaela Arl de Lima 48 Steakpoint 22
 41 Gemäldegalerie der Akademie Motto am Fluss 26 Stefanie 54
Barfly's Club 32 der bildenden Künste Wien 41 Mozarthaus Vienna 42 Steirereck 25
Beaulieu 25 Gorilla Kitchen 30 Mumok 43 Stephansdom 40
Beethovenhaus Heuriger Grand Hotel 53 Museum auf Abruf 43 stilwerk Wien 50
Mayer am Pfarrplatz 45 Grelle Forelle 36 Museum für Angewandte St. Martins Spa & Lodge 51
Beim Czaak 20 Hammond Bar 33 Kunst 43 Supersense 19
Belvedere 38 Haus des Meeres 44 Museum of Illusions 44 Swarovski Wien 49
Beograd 24 Heart Club 36 MuseumsQuartier Wien 39 Technisches Museum Wien 44
Bettel-Alm 32 Heeresgeschichtliches Naturhistorisches Museum 44 TGI Fridays 22
Bitzinger Würstelstand 30 Museum 41 OMU 34 Thai Therapy 51
Blue Box 32 Heuer 26 ON 22 The Loft 36
blueorange 30 Heuriger Schübel-Auer 45 Österreichische Werkstätten49 The Ritz-Carlton, Vienna 55
Bogside Inn 37 Hilton Vienna Plaza 53 Palais Coburg 54 ThermeLaa 51
Brasserie Stadtboden 26 Hofburg 38 Palais Hansen Kempinski 54 Therme Wien 51
Bristol 52 Hofmobiliendepot 41 Palmenhaus 20 Tian 31
Bristol Lounge 24 Hostel Ruthensteiner 55 Park Hyatt Vienna 54 Travel Shack 34
Burger Bros 22 Hotel Am Parkring 53 Parlor 26 Tre Ristorante 28
Café Central 18 Hotel am Stephansplatz 53 Pars 30 Tuchlauben 50
Cafe Diglas 18 Hotel de France 53 Passage 36 Türkis 30
Café Europa 34 Hundertwasser-Krawinahaus Patara 31 Unkai 28
Café Hawelka 19  39 Phil 19 Vienna Marriott Hotel 55
Café Landtmann 19 Ilona Stueberl 25 Plachutta 21 Vienna Urban Resort Hotel 55
Café Prückel 19 Il Sestante 27 Platzhirsch 36 Villon 33
Café Sacher 19 Imperial 53 Porgy & Bess 37 Volksgarten 36
Café Savoy 35 InterContinental 53 Prater Dome 36 Volksgarten Pavillon 34
Café Sperl 19 Irrgarten Schönbrunn Ra'mien 36 Wein & Co 50
Capricorno 52 (Labyrinth) 40 Ra’mien 24 Weinhof Zimmermann 45
Casino Wien 33 J&L Lobmeyr 50 Reinthalers Beisl 21 Weinschenke 22
Celeste 35 Johnny’s Pub 37 Restaurant Stefanie 21 WerkzeugH 35
Champions 32 Jüdisches Museum Wien 47 Ribs of Vienna 22 Why Not? 35
Charlie P's Irish Pub 37 Julius Meinl am Graben 49 Riesenrad 40 Wiener Deewan 30
City Central 52 Kaiserliche Schatzkammer Rochus 34 Wiener Silber Manufactur 49
Cuadro 19 Wien 41 ROLF shop wien 49 Wiener Wirtschaft 21
Da Capo 27 Karin Kasaj 48 Römertherme 51 Wien-Ticket Pavillon 10
Da Ferdinando 27 Kleinod 33 Sacher 54 Wombat’s 55
Dancing Shiva Superfoods 31 Kuishimbo 28 Sädtler 49 Xocolat 50
Danube Tower Vienna 38 Kunsthalle Wien 42 Salonga 30 Yamm! 31
Das Kolin 26 Kunsthaus Wien 42 Santos 30 ZOOM Kindermuseum 44
Das Loft 26 Kunsthistorisches Museum 42 Sass Club 36 Zum Schwarzen Kameel 25
Das Opernring 53 Kunstraum Niederoesterreich Schesch Besch Bar 34 Zum Weißen Rauchfangkehrer
Das Schick 24  42 Schikaneder 34  22
Das Werk 35 La Mia 28 Schlossquadrat 27
Demel 19 Le Bol 25 Schloss Schönbrunn 40

62 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com


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