Vienna Guide
Vienna Guide
Vienna Guide
Vienna
September – October 2019
inyourpocket.com
N°54 - €1.75
RESTAURANT „DAS SCHICK“
INDULGE IN TREATS – ABOVE THE ROOFTOPS OF VIENNA
Vienna
Street lamps and Votive Church during chilly autumn evening in Vienna © Jaromir Chalabala
History 5 Sightseeing 38
From imperial to contemporary
Arriving in Vienna 6
Day trip to Bratislava 45
Getting Around 7
Jewish Vienna 46
Vienna Districts 8
Synagogues & museums
Basics 9
Shopping 48
Events 10 Whatever you want
Concerts, exhibitions and more
Wellness & Beauty 51
City of Classical Music 16
Hotels 52
Vienna sounds good
From park bench to Park Grand
Coffeehouses 18
Directory 56
Coffee, cake & culture
Maps & Index
Restaurants 20 Street register 58
From Wiener Schnitzel to BBQ Centre map 59-61
Venue index 62
Nightlife 32
Bars, clubs and other dark rooms
We’ve got all that covered in this, the 54th issue of Vienna Editor John William Bills
Contributors Paul Nogid, Dune Johnson, Gretl Satorius
In Your Pocket, but we’re not afraid to turn our eyes to Layout Tomáš Haman; Photos Evi Bauer, Reinhard Böhm
magic outside of the city. And that’ll do for now, so enjoy Maps IYP GmbH
your autumn. We welcome any and all feedback of course,
whether via social media, email, or slipped in during a solid Sales & Circulation
General Manager Stephan Krämer
gossip session at Hawelka. We’ll see you there. Production Manager Philippe Krüger
Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt
John Bills is an independent author, Advertising Manager Mario Böhm
travel writer, and amateur darts player Copyright notice
from Wales. He has been working for Text and photos (unless otherwise stated) copyright In Your
In Your Pocket for half a decade, and Pocket GmbH 2010-2019. All rights reserved. No part of this
is the author of four decidedly non- publication may be reproduced without written permission
academic travel and history books from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket is used un-
der license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius,
that are available at his little bookshop Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
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inyourpocket.com
ANTIQUITY
Vienna was founded around 500 years before the arrival
of JC himself, and by 15BC it had developed into a Roman
frontier city called Vindobona. It had the thankless task of
protecting the Roman Empire from marauding German
tribes. It did a pretty good job, all things considering.
Statue of Emperor Joseph II © Pigprox, Shutterstock
BY TRAIN
Vienna’s new Wien Hauptbahnhof (central station) is
a short distance from the city centre; hop on tram D
to reach the Ring. There are plenty of luggage lockers
and ATMs for fresh arrivals, and there’s a helpful tourist
information office.
BY FERRY
BY PLANE The Danube river is increasingly used for ferry routes to
Vienna’s international airport is located in Schwechat, 18km Hungary, Slovakia and Germany. Ferries arrive at Anlegestelle
southeast of the city centre. After passing customs (for Reichsbrücke near U-Bahn station Vorgartenstrasse. Twin
arrivals from outside the Schengen zone) and collecting City Liner boats dock at Marienbrücke bridge near the
your baggage, ATMs, banks and tourist information can be Schwedenplatz U-Bahn station.
found in the arrivals hall.
EUROLINES
QErdbergstrassse 200a (VIB), MErdberg, tel. +43 1 798 TRAINS
29 00, www.eurolines.at. Open 06:30 - 20:30, Sat, Sun The new Wien Hauptbahnhof (central station) opened
06:30 - 11:30, 16:30-20:30. in December 2014 and is now almost operating at full
capacity. Check your timetable carefully to check where to
embark. Among many new connections are the ICE high
PUBLIC TRANSPORT speed trains from Linz via Vienna’s new Hauptbahnhof
Vienna’s extensive public transportation system, run by station to Vienna airport, every two hours or so; these
Wiener Linien (Vienna Transport Authority), is an easy and can also be used to get to and from the airport in under
inexpensive way to get around town. The U-Bahn (metro) 20 minutes. Train tickets can be bought at all stations, but
runs daily from 05:00 to 00:30, and non-stop on Fridays and are best booked in advance on the bilingual ÖBB website,
Saturdays and before public holidays. Suburban S-Bahn where significant reductions are available if you book well
trains radiate outwards from the city to the surrounding in advance.
districts and towns. Trams are the best way to get around
the inner city sights, running every 5-15 minutes between ÖBB (AUSTRIAN RAILWAYS)
05:00 and 00:30. Buses mostly serve Vienna’s suburbs and Qtel. +43 5 17 17, www.oebb.at.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 7
Vienna Districts
4, 5, 6. NASCHMARKT
This is currently Vienna’s most vibrant area with chic cafes
and people strolling past trendy stores and art galleries. You
would not want to miss out on a visit to Vienna’s central
Naschmarkt, selling all sorts of food and with amazing
restaurants and cosy cafés where many tourists and locals
enjoy a break. The Freihausviertel south of Naschmarkt in
the 4th district is the upcoming chic shopping mile. The
6th district, north of Naschmarkt, is known for its many gay
bars.
EXHIBITIONS
TICKETS UNTIL 21.10 » OLGA WISINGER-FLORIAN
WIEN-TICKET PAVILLON Olga Wisinger-Florian was one of the most important cogs
in the wheel of late 19th century avant-garde Austrian
landscape painting, and she finally gets some shine at the
Leopold Museum. This is the first large-scale solo exhibition
dedication to her work, and to say it is long overdue is
something of an understatement. Flowers frequently played
a centre role in her work, although you should really head
to the exhibition and find out for yourself. QG‑3, Leopold
Museum, Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel.
+43 1 52 57 00, www.leopoldmuseum.org. Open 10:00
– 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.
A handy box office in a hut by the Staatsoper, selling UNTIL 08.09 » PATTERN AND DECORATION
tickets for all kinds of events in and outside Vienna: Ornament as Promise was the premise of the Pattern and
opera, theatre, shows, concerts, festivals, sports events, Decoration movement in the United States (1975–1985).
musicals, museums and more. You can also pre-book In this exhibition, mumok presents the rich collection of
by phone, picking up the tickets at the pavillion kiosk, works from this movement of Peter and Irene Ludwig,
at one of over 100 outlets across town, or at the venue. in the largest presentation of Pattern and Decoration in
QB-3, Herbert von Karajanplatz, MKarlsplatz, tel. German-speaking Europe since the 1980s.QG‑3, Mumok,
+43 1 588 85, office@wien-ticket.at, www.wien- Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 52
ticket.at. Open 10:00 - 19:00. 50 00, €8-12, www.mumok.at. Open 10:00-19:00, Mon
14:00-19:00, Thu 10:00-21:00.
VIENNA TICKET OFFICE
Tickets for opera, concerts, shows, sights, cruises and
more.QB-3, Kärntner Straße 51, MKarlsplatz, tel. Get the In Your Pocket
+43 1 513 11 11, info@viennaticketoffice.com,
www.viennaticketoffice.com. Open 09:00 - 18:50.
City Essentials App
SPORT
21.10 - 27.10 » ERSTE BANK OPEN 500
New Model Army © Barracuda Music Will Austrian superstar Dominic Thiem improve on his
disappointing 2018 showing by going all the way this year?
We can only hope so. Now ranked four in the world (at
SPECIAL EVENTS the time of writing), Thiem is the next cab off the rank in
07.10 - 09.10 » THE CHIPPENDALES international tennis but he needs to start putting together
The Chippendales! Celebrating their 40th anniversary, the trophies to prove it. A hometown win will certainly
the troupe of topless hunks and still doing their stuff, help. Kevin Anderson is the reigning champion. QWiener
keeping bow-tie companies in business and attracting Stadthalle, Roland-Rainer-Platz 1, tel. +43 1 98100-200,
the oversized undergarments of adoring fans worldwide. €31-€90, www.erstebank-open.com.
The group are actually named after the LA club that
gave them their start, which is a nice bit of trivia for
you. QG‑3, MuseumsQuartier Wien, Museumsplatz 1,
MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 523 58 81, From € 41.
CLASSICAL CONCERTS
20.09 19:30 » WIENER PHILHARMONIKER
Think classical music is all straight faces, high brows and
seriousness? Think again. In this work, Gustav Mahler dons
the fool’s cap and breaks down the art through irony and
humour, imbuing it with a life that we rarely get to see.
Stunning stuff. QC‑3, Konzerthaus, Lothringerstrasse
20, MStadtpark, tel. +43 1 24 20 02, €41-128, www.
konzerthaus.at.
Vienna is one of those cities where coffee is much bring additional water unrequested, with the idea being
more than just a drink. Many coffee houses in Vienna date that you are a guest who should feel welcome and not
back to the 19th century, when there was little private pressured to leave. Many cafés provide small food dishes
heating, and people used the coffee houses as a second like sausages as well as desserts, cakes and tarts, like
living room, because they could not afford to heat their Apfelstrudel and Linzer Torte. In many classic cafés piano
homes.Unlike some other café traditions around the music is played in the evenings and social events like
world, it is completely normal for a customer to linger literary readings are held.
alone for hours and study the omnipresent newspapers.
Along with coffee, the waiter will serve an obligatory
glass of cold tap water and during a long stay will often VIENNESE COFFEEHOUSES
CAFÉ CENTRAL
Originally opened in 1876, Café Central boasts a number
COFFEE MENU DECODER of famous regulars over the years, including Leo Trotsky,
Adolf Loos, Vladimir Lenin and Sigmund Freud. The café,
If you order just a coffee in Vienna, don’t be surprised restored in 1986, is reminiscent of both the intellectuals
when the waiter continues to stare at you... he’s who frequented the café and the imperial grandeur of
waiting for you to be more specific than that. Below Austria. Café Central is perfectly situated behind the
a selection of the most popular variations of coffee Hofburg, making it an ideal place to stop for a delicious
served. Most prominent are the Melange or a large and piece of Apfelstrudel and rich hot chocolate after you’ve
small Brauner. Most cafes will also serve you popular spent hours wandering through the nearby twin museums
international choices such as cappucino or café latte. and the Imperial Palace. Reservations recommended for
Brauner Large or small black coffee with milk added groups (tel: +43 1 533 37 63 61)QA‑2, Herrengasse 14,
for getting its brown colour MHerrengasse, tel. +43 1 533 37 63 24/+43 1 533 37
Espresso Large or small black coffee from the Espresso- 63 61, www.cafecentral.wien. Open 07:30 - 22:00, Sun
machine 10:00 - 22:00.
Einspänner Double espresso with whipped cream
CAFE DIGLAS
Mokka Large or small black coffee in a large or small All of the heavenly cakes at this century-old café are
mocha-cup baked in-house, and you can even observe the process
Melange Large cup of coffee with hot milk foam on a large monitor just above the counter. Order your
Kaisermelange Large mocha without milk, but stirred coffee, pick a cake of your choice at the counter, and
with an egg yolk, honey, cognac or brandy be sure to memorize its funny name so you could spell
Kapuziner Small mocha with some drops of cream it out to the waiter in flawless Viennese when ordering.
Service can be slow, but after all, it’s contemplating and
18 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Coffeehouses
lingering over sweet treats that people come here for. and social differences in the artistic and military/public
QB‑2, Wollzeile 10, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 sectors. The pool tables also set Café Sperl apart from other
57 650, www.diglas.at. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 coffeehouses, and the cakes are to die for. The café also has
- 19:00. an extensive international newspaper selection.QG‑3,
Gumpendorferstr. 11, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1
CAFÉ HAWELKA 586 41 58, www.cafesperl.at. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun
This is a real legend. Multiple books and hundreds 11:00 - 20:00.
of articles have been written about this classic café
and generations of artists and authors have made DEMEL
this smoky den their home. Make sure to visit during Located in the upscale Kohlmarkt shopping street and just
the week, on weekends larger tourist groups spoil behind the Hofburg, Demel was once the Imperial and Royal
the unique atmosphere.QB‑2, Dorotheergasse 6, Court Bakery. Since the fall of the Austrian empire, Demel has
MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 82 30, www.hawelka. continued to produce world-class baked goods, and is a must-
at. Open 08:00 - 02:00. see for anyone with a sweet tooth. Despite its prominence,
the prices are not too bad, so no excuses; enjoy the sweets
CAFÉ LANDTMANN and the regal décor, and poke around the museum beneath
Located in the heart of Vienna, this café has a definite the main part of the store for a glimpse into its imperial
advantage over the other coffeehouses in the winter: history.QB‑2, Kohlmarkt 14, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1
despite the cold, you can still sit “outside” on the heated 53 51 71 70, www.demel.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00.
glass veranda, which looks out to the Burgtheater and
the neo-classical Rathaus (town hall), seat of the city’s
government. The café specializes in seasonal and Austrian CAFÉS
deserts, and the excellent brews will remind you why CUADRO
Vienna is so well known for its coffee. The waiting staff has A hip café with the culinary offerings of an American diner,
retained many typical aspects of Vienna’s coffee culture, so Cuadro occupies one of the corners of the Schloßquadrat,
beware the Wiener Schmäh, it just might put a big smile a historic complex with sunny interior courtyard in Vienna’s
on your face.QA‑1, Universitätsring 4, MSchottentor, fifth district. With friendly staff, breakfast served until
tel. +43 1 24 10 01 10, www.landtmann.at. Open 07:30 16:00, a savoury house coffee roast, happy hour specials,
- 24:00. free wifi and comfortable, modern design, Cuadro is ideal
for both casual dates and hangover breakfasts.QG‑4,
CAFÉ PRÜCKEL Margaretenstrasse 77, MPilgramgasse, tel. +43 1 544
An exemplary, U-shaped Ringstrasse café in stunning 75 50, www.schlossquadr.at. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun
Jugendstil design that pampers its guests with a relaxed 09:00 - 23:00.
environment. It’s flawlessly designed to let you sink into
a book or have an intimate conversation with friends. PHIL
The café also organises a bevy of concerts, readings and Phil is one of those places you can’t put into any
other events in other sections of the U, ensuring that its conventional category even though you like it from the first
clientele always has sufficient stimulating entertainment moment. All you need to know is that it’s a cool café-cum-
while simultaneously maintaining the chill atmosphere bookshop where you can browse some books while having
for its more introverted guests.QC‑2, Stubenring 24, your coffee or a quick lunch. It’s also a nice place to meet
MStubentor, tel. +43 1 512 61 15, www.prueckel.at. friends - even if you stay the whole day, they sure won’t kick
Open 08:30 – 22:00. you out. Oh, and you can even buy vintage furniture here.
You got it right - the furniture you are sitting on!QA‑3,
CAFÉ SACHER Gumpendorferstrasse 10-12, MMuseumsquartier, tel.
Hotel Sacher is widely known for providing the scenery +43 1 581 04 89, www.phil.info. Open 09:00 - 01:00,
for much of The Third Man and, more importantly, for its Mon 17:00 - 01:00.
famous Original Sacher-Torte chocolate cake. The hotel’s
red clad doormen will usher you into the crisp, classic café, SUPERSENSE
where you can enjoy a fresh slice. True, you can get so- An elongated space in a neogothic building houses Supersense,
called Sacher Torten at other cafés around town, but there’s an exciting cafe and concept store with a difference. Apart
nothing like tasting the original in its noble home.QB‑3, from serving quality coffee from a ‘Slayer’ machine and tasty
Philharmonikerstr. 4, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 51 45 60, cake and snacks, Supersense is furnished with special tables,
www.sacher.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. chairs and lamps, and a bar made from classic American
cabinets. Then there’s a wide range of products relating to
CAFÉ SPERL analogue photography (cameras, film, special digital-to-film
Café Sperl first opened in 1880 and has been a hit amongst printing services and workshops) and other analogue themes.
the locals ever since. It became the preferred stomping QPraterstr. 70, MPraterstern, tel. +43 1 969 08 32, www.
grounds for many singers, artists, writers, architects, the.supersense.com. Open Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 09:30 - 19:00,
generals and public officials, despite the usual political Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 19
Restaurants
SILBERWIRT
The Silberwirt inn has been serving schnitzels, pub food,
snacks and Margaretner beer for over 200 years, earning it
the coveted title of “beisl”, a traditional Viennese restaurant.
Despite its age, it’s as lively as ever with students, office
workers, artists and tourists piling in to try the affordable
food and drinks. In summer the garden is an excellent
place to recover from a day in townQSchloßgasse 21,
MPilgramgasse, tel. +43 1 544 49 07, www.silberwirt.
at. Open 12:00-24:00. AG We’ll take two, please… © Österreich Werbung/Wiesenhofer
WIENER WIRTSCHAFT
Rustic and genuine are the guiding themes of
the typical inn Wiener Wirtschaft. At this tavern a SYMBOL KEY
wide range of rustic Viennese dishes awaits your
taste buds. Besides classics like Wiener Schnitzel T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
or goulash, creative seasonal interpretations of I Fireplace E Live music
the local cuisine can also be found on the menu.
Kitchen until 22:00.QA‑4, Wiedner Hauptstrasse O Casino M Nearest metro station
27-29, MTaubstummengasse, tel. +43 1 22 11 13 B Outside seating G Non-smoking areas
64, www.wienerwirtschaft.com. Mon - Sat 11:30 -
S Take away R Internet W Wi-Fi
23:00, Sun 11:30 - 15:00. Kitchen open Mon - Sat
11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed July 29 – August 6 Animal friendly L Guarded parking
26, 2018. GT B 6 W
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 21
Restaurants
ZUM WEISSEN RAUCHFANGKEHRER atmosphere and convivial charm. There’s no point offering
One of the oldest and most renowned restaurants in big portions of nonsense of course, and the food at TGI
town, the ‘white chimney-sweep’ was founded in 1848 as Fridays is consistently excellent. Add a keen understanding
one of the guild pubs of the old Vienna chimneysweeps. of value, great cocktails and some of the friendliest staff
The typical atmosphere originates from the 1920s when going, not to mention some of the finest flair bartending
actors, singers, painter and sculptors discovered it. The in Vienna, and you’ll see just why TGIs has become a
restaurant serves classic Viennese kitchen, with Tafelspitz, staple of modern day dining. QB‑3, Schubertring 13,
Szegediner Gulasch, paprika chicken and Kalbsvogerln. MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 714 89 95, www.tgifridays.at.
QB‑2, Weihburggasse 4, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 Open 12:00-24:00. AG
1 512 34 71, www.weisser-rauchfangkehrer.at. Open
12:00-24:00. G WEINSCHENKE
In the old Shultz bar, there are now burgers: 9 burgers
(with meat, vegetarian and vegan), 12 sauces, all
AMERICAN homemade (meat from Hödl is minced daily, bread is
BURGER BROS baked according to own recipes by Frühbauer, the fries are
There are three of these great burger bars in Vienna, and made of bio-dumplings from the Lobau); Salads (eg with
they are well worth seeking out. The venues are modern smoked salmon or goat’s cheese). QSiebensterngasse
and contemporary and the burgers themselves are fresh, 31/3, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 1 595353020, www.
handmade from the finest ground beef (there are chicken weinschenke-wien.com. Open 11:00-02:00.
and veggie options too). You can also feast on some superb
ribs, hot-dogs and top salads. It’s a little bit of America in
Vienna, and a cut above just about every other burger joint ASIAN
in the city.QSeitenstettengasse 1–3, MSchwedenplatz, DOTS
www.burgerbros.at. Open 17:00-00:00; closed Sun, Mon. This experimental sushi restaurant is a great place to grab
a bite after a shopping spree. The ambience, like the food,
EL GAUCHO is experimental, but the combination of lamps, lighting
Delicious steaks, soups and specials, served in a cosy, and tables leaves a satisfying taste in your mouth, as does
modern restaurant. Apart from the classic Black Angus the fresh fish. We recommend moving over to the similarly
rumpsteaks, ribeye and surf & turf, there’s lobster, chicken decorated bar after dinner to continue the experience.
curry and lambchops to savour. A good selection of sides, QF‑3, Mariahilferstrasse 103, MZieglergasse, tel. +43
sauces and salads rounds off the menu - and should 1 920 99 80, www.dots-lounge.com. Open 11:00-24:00;
guarantee a great lunch or dinner. Kitchen open until 23:00. Sun 17:00-24:00.
QC‑1, Praterstr. 1, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 212 12
10, www.elgaucho.at. Open 11:30-01:00; closed Sun. MAMA LIU & SONS
Mama Liu & Sons speciality is the hotpot, or Chinese
RIBS OF VIENNA fondue. Choose a soup and receive endless seafood, meats
Sometimes that primal urge to grab your food and sink and veggies to toss in. The simple and modern décor makes
your teeth in takes hold, and you just have to abandon this a fun place to try something a bit different than the
the fork and the knife. Housed in a cellar dating from the usual Chinese, at a price that doesn’t break the bank.QG‑3,
16th century, the orange and white clad staff will serve Gumpendorferstr. 29, MKettenbrückengasse, tel. +43 1
a steaming heap of ribs. The restaurant´s speciality is a 586 36 73, www.mamaliuandsons.at. Open 17:00-24:00.
metre of ribs, but they also have excellent salads.QB‑2,
Weihburggasse 22, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 513 85 ON
19, www.ribsofvienna.at. Open 17:00-24:00. PG A fascinating blend between contemporary Chinese cuisine
and ultra-stylish interior, this popular restaurant is owned by
STEAKPOINT famed Austrian TV chef Simon Xie Hong, and it has become
The Viennese make a lot of great food, but they are not the go-to place for young professionals. The menu is
well known for their steaks - enter Steakpoint. Filet, rib dominated by fish, seafood and vegetarian dishes although
eye, T-bone, prime rib: you name it, they’ve got it, and traditional Chinese duck, chicken and lamb are also on
will make your steak exactly how you want it. The décor offer. Excellent Austrian wine selection. The less expensive
is reminiscent of an upscale roadhouse restaurant.QB‑3, daily menu is served until 18:00.QA‑4, Wehrgasse 8,
Akademiestrasse 2, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 513 80 40, MKettenbrückengasse, tel. +43 1 585 49 00, www.
www.members.aon.at/steakpoint. Open 11:00-24:00; restaurant-on.at. Open 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:30.
Sun 17:00-24:00. AG
FINE DINING
BRISTOL LOUNGE
Recent renovations have revealed the fabulous original Art
Deco decoration of the room that’s home to the new restaurant
in the legendary 12-decade-old Hotel Bristol. Excellent
breakfast, lunch and dinner meals are served in these grand
surroundings. The 5-course ‘Meistermenü’ is the definitive
highlight; guests can compose their own dinner from
several seasonal and regional options.QKärntner Ring 1,
MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 51 51 60, www.bristolvienna.com.
Open 07:30-24:00. APGLJKi
DAS SCHICK
Austria and Spain share a common history and enjoy a special
relationship. You can experience delicious Mediterranean
specialities barely known outside Spain, exquisite service
and breathtaking views of the Austrian capital at the new
RA’MIEN Das Schick restaurant. The restaurant that presents the best
There are many restaurants that serve decent Asian cuisine, treats of both cuisines is acclaimed by the Gault & Millau,
but few match Ra’miens combination of excellent dishes (try A la Carte and Falstaff restaurant guides.QC‑2, Parkring
the home-made noodle soup) and reasonable prices. In the 12, MStubentor, tel. +43 1 51480417, www.das-schick.
evenings, the emphasis is on Thai dishes. Ra’mien is a great at. Mon - Fri 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22.30, Sat & Sun 18:00
place to hang out with friends, and as a local favourite, you’ll - 22.30. July & August 18:00 - 22.30. Kitchen open until
also have a chance to chat with the locals. Afterwards head 14:30, evenings until 22:00. APGW
downstairs for cocktails and dancing (see Clubs).QG‑3,
Gumpendorferstr. 9, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 585
47 98, www.ramien.at. Open 11:00-24:00; closed Mon.
SHANGHAI TAN
The first thing you notice is the light. The hanging red
ornamental lamps provide an atmosphere of intimacy that
most restaurants can only dream of, creating an aura that
engages from the get-go. The menu covers kilometres of
Asian cuisine done properly, from faultless Japanese sushi
through to excellent Chinese and Vietnamese options. There
are also a good number of vegetarian and vegan dishes
available. For a true taste of the Orient in an environment Das Schick © Schick Hotels
that backs that up and then some, Shanghai Tan is the place
to go.QA‑3, Gumpendorferstr. 9, MMuseumsquartier, DO & CO
tel. +43 1 585 49 88, www.shanghaitan.at. Open 18:00- If you flew into town with Austrian Airlines, then you are
01:00; closed Sun. AGT already familiar with the first-class catering that Do & Co offers.
Pop in to enjoy the immaculate design, the beautiful view of
St. Stephen’s Cathedral, and chic food. Just know that portions
More restaurant reviews online: are small and you shouldn’t arrive with a big appetite.QB‑2,
vienna.inyourpocket.com Stephansplatz 12, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 535 39 69,
www.doco.com. Open 12:00-15:00;18:00-24:00. APG
24 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
STEIRERECK
A fancy restaurant with typical Austrian cuisine, Steiereck CHEF INTERVIEW
can be found surrounded by greenery of the Stadtpark
and has numerous delicious delicacies. Choose from a What first inspired you to
menu with five and six course meals, and an optional become a chef?
assortment of paired wines served with the courses.QC‑3, The feeling of freedom,
Am Heumarkt 2a, MStadtpark, tel. +43 1 713 31 68, creating new experiences
www.steirereck.at. Open 11:30-14:30; 18:30-24:00; for guests.
closed Sun, Sat. APGB
How long have you
ZUM SCHWARZEN KAMEEL worked at Das Schick?
Venture into this exquisite restaurant and bar, and you Since January 1, this year.
could see your picture in the local tabloids the next day.
The ‘Black Camel’ has been the place for Vienna’s rich and What is your philosophy
© Schick Hotels
famous to be seen ever since it opened in 1618, and even in the kitchen?
today it’s the official caterer to the Austrian president. Watch I try to combine the main product with two others
the well-dressed beau-monde enjoy a refined conversation in order to get the best out of it, as well as finding
over a glass of wine at the bar, and make sure to check out different ways of presenting it.
the posh deli and pastry shops just a few steps down the
street.QB‑2, Bognergasse 5, MHerrengasse, tel. +43 How do you develop new dishes? Where does the
1 533 81 25, www.kameel.at. Open 12:00-15:30;18:00- inspiration come from?
24:00; closed Sun. Bar open from 09:00. Inspiration largely comes from nature and the products
we have to work with. We are always trying different
combinations until we are sure that a dish represents
FRENCH our “taste”, and then we put it on the menu.
BEAULIEU
Hidden in a luxury shopping arcade, this authentic How has the culinary scene in Vienna changed in
French bistro has earned praises by Vienna’s French expat recent years?
community and food aficionados. The usual suspects, People are now more open minded, thanks to the
such as delicious salads, baguettes, quiches, scrupulously internet and travelling, and they are more free to taste
prepared mains as well as lavish desserts and an impressive different dishes. The quality of restaurants and the
wine list are served by French-speaking staff. And in case expectations of the guests is increasing every year.
you long for more French fare to take home, there’s a deli
selling cheese, chocolate, wine and many other things. Can you describe Austrian cuisine in five words?
Reservations recommended.QHerrengasse 14/18, Traditional, tasteful, regional, alternately, different.
Ferstel Passage, MHerrengasse, tel. +43 1 532 11 03,
www.beaulieu-wien.at. Open 10:00-23:00; closed Sun. What makes dining at Das Schick a unique
AG experience?
Spending time in an elegant restaurant with surprising
LE BOL dishes and wine selection combined with the best
This small restaurant is a must for anyone who enjoys view of Vienna.
French food, whether you need a good start in the
morning or a tasty lunch. The baguettes in particular What are three Austrian dishes that every visitor
should not be missed: our favourite is the Joan de Florette, to Vienna should try?
but you will be satisfied with any of their options. Le Bol is Viennese Schnitzel, Tafelspitz, Kaiserschmarren, (or
always full, so make a reservation.QB‑2, Neuer Markt 14, Roasted liver with apple)
MStephansplatz, tel. +43 699 103 018 99, www.lebol.
at. Open 08:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-24:00. Any favourite late night snacks or fast food joints?
A beer with a sausage from any traditional sausage
stand in Vienna.
HUNGARIAN
ILONA STUEBERL How do you like to spend your days off in Vienna?
Maria Fodor, the owner since 1987, takes pride in serving Any tips for our readers?
the best gulyas this side of the border. The chicken paprikas With my wife and my children, maybe combining a day
is also delicious. Be sure to leave some space for heavenly in nature with a visit to a traditional wine tavern.
somlói galuska, a layered chocolate and vanilla sponge cake
with raisins, walnuts and rum. Note that smoking is allowed Gerasimos Kavalieris
here.QB‑2, Bräunerstrasse 2, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 Chef at Restaurant “Das Schick” (p.24)
533 90 29, www.ilonastueberl.at. Open 11:30-23:00.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 25
Restaurants
products using traditional preservation methods and stores
GASTROBARS them for pickling on the restaurant’s own shelving units: a
There’s no good English term for Viennese Bierlokale; these variety of homemade juices, syrups, compotes, preserved
are casual restaurants that offer a good range of beers and lemons and pickles can be found here. Much of it is harvested
drinks as well as quality food. from the wild. Our pick of the menu is the beef tartar from
Austrian veal (Hödl) with brûléed egg yolk, mustard leaf and
BRASSERIE STADTBODEN redvein dock, dandelion-dijon creme, slices of yellow-gold salt-
Near the Opera, the Stadtboden restaurant and pub is a great buttered toast from the in-house bakery. Prices are amazing
spot for Austrian and international cuisine, including late given the superb location. Long evenings in the garden
breakfasts, Flammkuchen pies, sausages, steak and burgers. here are Vienna musts!QB‑3, Treitlstrasse 2, MKarlsplatz,
The Art Deco style room is centred around an elegant bar tel. +43 1 8900590, www.heuer-amkarlsplatz.com. Open
which has a variety of local Ottakringer beer on tap. Drop by 11:00-02:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-02:00.
on Thursdays for live DJ music; important football matches
and other sports events are beamed onto screens.QB‑3, MEDUSA
Krugerstraße 8, tel. +43 1 512 16 37, www.stadtboden.at. Opened by entrepreneurs from neighbouring Slovakia,
Open 10:00-24:00; closed Sun. AJWK this chic establishment offers mouthwatering international
dishes that are pleasing both to the eyes and to the palate.
Enjoy imaginative appetizers such as tuna fish with papaya
INTERNATIONAL cashew salad or innovative mains, such as flank-steak with
ALBERTINA PASSAGE DINNER CLUB truffle potatoes. There are also wonderfully mixed cocktails,
A 1960s pedestrian tunnel has been transformed into and from October you can dance the night away in the
a club that - inspired by Pulp Fiction’s Jack Rabbit Slims new club.QNeuer Markt 8, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 67 66
Twist Contest - has a stage surrounded by tables so that 05 72 86, www.medusarestaurant.at. Open 10:00-23:30.
you can dine and dance the night away. Hidden deeper AGBJ
in the club are a cigar lounge and smokers’ bar. There’s
excellent international food, unusual cocktails, groovy live MOTTO AM FLUSS
music and the sound of trams rumbling overhead.QA/B‑3, All aboard Vienna’s top spot to see and be seen. You can
Opernring corner Operngasse, tel. +43 1 512 08 13, spend all day sipping fresh coffee, trying the delicious
www.albertinapassage.at. Open Thu-Sat 18:00 - 04:00, baked goods or devouring the tantalizing meals on
from Sept also on Tue, Wed. the menu. What’s more, the DJ line up keeps the party
hopping long into the night. An excellent place for chill
DAS KOLIN cats and party goers alike.QC‑1, Franz Josefs Kai 2,
Lovely cafe and restaurant serving a wide range of great MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 252 55 10, www.motto.at/
food at prices which, given the excellent central location, mottoamfluss. Open 08:00-02:00.
are more than reasonable. The interior is contemporary
without overdoing it, and there’s an elegant street terrace PARLOR
in good weather. The menu (which also offers one of the The restaurant at the Vienna InterContinental uses the
best breakfast menus in all Vienna) is based around Modern motto ‘classic with a twist’ for its styling, breakfasts and
European cuisine and includes a regularly changing list of dinners – and there’s much to be enjoyed in this brightly
seasonal specials alongside staples such as the legendary coloured space. Viennese and Austrian options are
Kolin burger.QG‑1, Kolingasse 5, MSchottentor, tel. matched with international dishes from around the world
+43 1 8900 221, www.daskolin.at/. Open 11:00-24:00; and the breakfast buffet (open for non-guests too) has
Sat 09:00-24:00; closed Sun. PBSWi more than you’d expect – including Japanese snacks and
excellent teas. Don’t hesitate to bring the kids as well –
DAS LOFT
On the 18th floor of the Sofitel Vienna Stephansdom, the
glass-walled Restaurant & Bar Das LOFT offers amazing
360° views over the city. German chef Fabian Günzel cooks
up modern, cosmopolitan dishes inspired by tastes from
across the world, but rooted in regional ingredients. Visit
at weekends to see the DJs in action!QC‑1, Praterstrasse
1, MM Schwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 90 616 8110, www.
dasloftwien.at/. Open 18:00-22:30. P
HEUER
This place, in the very heart of Vienna, sources all of its
ingredients from over thirty different small farmers and
specialists, thereby supporting the region and ensuring
quality. Chef Peter Fallnbugl works with carefully chosen Parlor © InterContinental Wien
SCHLOSSQUADRAT
Four venues in one in historic Alt-Margareten. Each offers
something special; Cuadro is a relaxed café with a great
breakfast; Margareta is an inviting Italian trattoria that offers
delicious pizza; Silberwirt has been serving Viennese cuisine
for more than 200 years and knows its craft; and Gergely’s is an
upmarket restaurant. All four also have beautiful courtyards.
QG‑4, Margaretenplatz 2, MPilgramgasse, tel. +43 1 544
49 07, www.schlossquadr.at. Open 08:00-24:00. B
SPEAR
Popular among the young and elegant neighborhood
crowd, this small and stylish establishment features a state-
of-the-art interior that matches its contemporary cuisine
concept. Chef Dan Vainberg skillfully concocts the house
specialty dishes: small pieces of meat, fish or vegetables
served on a skewer and sticky rice burger. Great cocktails
are served in the bar until late.QF‑3, Neubaugasse 15,
MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 67 67 11 86 71, www.spear.at.
Open 15:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-24:00.
ITALIAN
DA CAPO
Da Capo spoils its guests with exquisite Italian cuisine served in
an inviting setting, great for a romantic evening or a fun family
night. There’s homemade pasta, fresh seafood and friendly
staff who can help you choose the right wine to complete your
meal. We really like the pizzas baked in the wood-fired oven.
QB‑2, Schulerstr. 18, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 44
91, www.dacapo.co.at. Open 11:30-23:45. AB
DA FERDINANDO
If you’re looking for an authentic slice of Neapolitan pizza in
Vienna then look no further than Da Ferdinando, with some
of the best Italian food in town waiting to be devoured at
this at this delightful restaurant next to Schönbrunn Palace
and the Tiergarten. A charming ambience and convivial
service compliment the excellent food, while the outdoor
area is one of the city’s most pleasant, especially when
enjoyed alongside a crisp glass of wine (or two). Keep an
eye out for the lunchtime specials if you’re eating on a
budget.QHietzinger Hauptstr. 26, tel. +43 1 877 80 36,
www.daferdinando.at. Open 11:00-23:00.
IL SESTANTE
This simple Italian trattoria in the middle of Vienna’s posh AUTHENTIC NEAPOLITAN PIZZA
8th district offers authentic thin-crusted brick-oven pizzas,
BEAUTIFUL OUTDOOR DINING AREA
yummy fresh salads and excellent pasta dishes. The place
seems to be immensely popular among local families, no www.daferdinando.at
less so thanks to friendly staff (and we do mean it!). Be
sure to make a reservation if you plan to eat after 19:00, Mon-Sun 11:00am-11:00pm
and try the fantastic fettuccine gamberetti con zucchini. Tel. +43 1 8778036
QF‑2, Piaristengasse 50, MRathaus, tel. +43 1 402 98
94, www.sestante.at. Open 11:30-23:30.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 27
Restaurants
JAPANESE
KUISHIMBO
Owned by an extremely friendly Japanese family, Kuishimbo
serves what many believe is the most authentic Japanese
fare in town - delicious noodle soups, sushi and sashimi
sets, and savoury pancakes called okonomiyaki... all that
in the space of 2x4 metres, More places like this, please.
QG‑3, Linke Wienzeile 40, MKettenbrückengasse, tel.
+43 699 171 923 55.
UNKAI
Classic Japanese restaurant and sushi bar on the 7th floor
Tre Ristorante of the Grand Hotel Wien, with traditional dishes, fresh fish
sushi and an impressive culinary show at the Teppanyaki
LA MIA table. Book one of the tatami rooms with a view of the zen
A proper, no-nonsense Italian restaurant serving authentic garden for meals served by waitresses in kimono.QB‑3,
Neapolitan pizza and delicious Italian meat, fish and Kärntner Ring 9 (Grand Hotel Wien), MKarlsplatz,
seafood dishes. All of the produce (hams, cheeses and such tel. +43 1 515 80 91 10, www.unkai.at. Open 12:00-
like) is the real deal, imported from Italy, while the pasta is 14:30,18:00-22:45; Mon 18:00-22:45.
all homemade. The staff are amazingly friendly given how
busy they often are, and the location is fantastic, especially
the tables in the courtyard which are perfect when the LATINO
weather allows. The children’s menu is a bonus (such things MERCADO
can be hard to find in the city centre). Good selection of South America comes to your plate in Vienna at this
wine too.QF‑2, Lerchenfelder Strasse 13, MRathaus, cosy Latino restaurant. With dishes from across the
tel. +43 1 522 42 21, www.lamia.at/. Open 11:30-14:30, continent - some menus served as sharing packages
18:00-22:30. Fri, Sat, Sun 11:30-22:30. PTBW for up to 6 people - there’s something for everyone
here, whether you like it creamy or superspicy. Try the
SOLE fish of the day, some chipotle polenta, black beans
Located on a narrow city centre street, this establishment with avocado or fried chili-mint cheeseballs.QC‑2,
is so veritably Italian you’d think you’ve just entered a Stubenring 18, MStubentor, tel. +43 1 512 25 05,
Roman trattoria. The delicious authentic fare explains why www.mercado.at. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 17:00-
this place attracts many faithful locals and has become a 22:00; Sat 17:00-23:00.
venue for visiting opera stars, such as Placido Domingo,
whose pictures with the owner are proudly exhibited
inside. The perfectly-baked pizzas and fresh pastas are just LEBANESE
out of this world, as are the meat and fish dishes and the AL FAYROOZ
desserts. Reservations recommended.QAnnagasse 6-8, Enjoy Oriental dinner, drinks, dance and hookah pipes at
MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 513 40 77, www.ristorante-sole. this basement oasis, decked out like a silk route traders’
at. Open 11:30-23:00. GBJ tent. Tuck in to a fantastic range of Lebanese mazza starters,
including humus, stuffed wine leaves, olives and sheep’s
TRE RISTORANTE cheese, followed by meat, fish or other dishes from the
Family and food are inherently intertwined in all of us. We charcoal grill. There’s live music, cocktails and some very
learn to eat at the table with our nearest and dearest, so lively belly dancing (€10 per person extra) at weekend
it stands to reason that an understanding of brotherhood nights.QA‑1, Universitätsring 8, tel. +43 1 533 84 11,
should permeate the best restaurants in town. The good www.alfayrooz.eu. Open 12:00-24:00; Sun 17:00-24:00;
folk at Tre Ristorante don’t just understand this, they live it, Fri, Sat 17:00-04:00.
bringing childhood joy and decades of passion and trust
to one of the best traditional Italian restaurants in Vienna.
There is a commitment to fresh ingredients on a daily basis MEDITERRANEAN
(from trusted markets), and students might be interested FABIOS
in the offer of a discount for a Google rating (prior to Fabios is a wonderful excuse to hang out: with a great
paying).QWollzeile 19, tel. +43 (0)1 890 73 52, www.tre- terrace and a cool window design, be prepared to
ristorante.at. Open 11:00-23:00. watch and be watched. The menu has several options
for a delicious Mediterranean five-course meal, so
you can dine with the in-crowd.QB‑2, Tuchlauben 6,
@InYourPocket MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 532 22 22, www.fabios.at.
Open 10:00–01:00; closed Sun. APG
28 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
Wollzeile 19, 1010 Wien
+4318907352
info@tre-ristorante.at
TRE Open daily 11:00 - 23:00
RISTORANTE
THAI
BANGKOK VIENNA
Call us snobs, we’ve accepted the fact that the real Thai
food we crave for can probably not be found anywhere
in Vienna. Yet we applaud the effort of this restaurant
near Naschmarkt. The service is extremely friendly, and
the omnipresent images of Buddha combined with
soothing Thai music create the right setting. The pad thai
was delicious and good value. Sadly, smoke pervades
even in the non-smoking section.QG‑3, Joanelligasse
8, MKettenbrückengasse, tel. +43 1 587 05 93, www.
bangkok-vienna.at. Open 12:30-15:00, 17:30-22:30;
closed Mon.
PATARA
This luxury Thai restaurant with branches in Bangkok,
London, Geneva and Singapore is certainly one of the meditation events. Saturday brunch 10:00-15:00 every
best in town, with according prices. From the table week.QF‑3, Neubaugasse 58, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43
settings to its location and the good modern Thai food, 1 524 78 43, www.dancingshiva.at. Open 11:00-21:00;
this local favourite exudes class.QB‑2, Petersplatz closed Sun, Mon, Tue, Wed. Note that the kitchen closes
1, MM Stephansplatz, tel. +43 1 997 19 38 0, at 20:00.
www.patara-vienna.at. Open 12:00-15:00;17:30-23:00;
Sun 17:30-23:00. APG TIAN
High-quality vegetarian and vegan dishes, awarded
SIAM with a Michelin star, served in a stylish, white restaurant.
Traditional decorations, portraits of the royal family on Whether you have a meal at lunchtime or in the evening,
the walls, and silk tablecloth all add a nice touch to this you can choose and combine balanced set menus that
place. The extensive food selection is but a tad different can be complemented with suitable wines. Healthy,
from the real Bangkok cuisine, and yet, for lack of better tasty and adventurous.QB‑2, Himmelpfortgasse 23,
affordable options here in Vienna, we’ll give them credit MStubentor, tel. +43 1 890 46 65, www.taste-tian.
for trying.QB‑3, Bösendorferstrasse 2-4, MKarlsplatz, com. Open 12:00-24:00; closed Sun, Mon. Winebar
tel. +43 1 505 38 46, www.siam-vienna.at. Open 11:30- open 17:00-24:00.
15:00,17:30-24:00; Sat 17:30-24:00.
YAMM!
Conveniently located opposite the university’s main
VEGETARIAN building, this cool lounge with psychedelic interior offers
DANCING SHIVA SUPERFOODS exclusive organic and vegan dishes, including wholesome
From supersmoothies and delicious desserts to salads, warm platters, healthy desserts, and perfect
international dishes like wraps, currys and stews - visit cocktails to wash down your food. Pick up a plate, fill it
Dancing Shiva Superfoods and discover the world of raw up with goodies from the salad bar and pay by weight.
food. An atmospheric, colourful restaurant serving organic Groovy music in the evenings attracts many students and
and vegan specialities of the raw food kitchen, combined young professionals here.QA‑1, Dr. Karl-Lueger-Ring 10,
with Superfoods. Has an incorporated superfood store MSchottentor, tel. +43 1 532 05 44, www.yamm.at.
(open 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-18:00, closed Sun) and Open 08:00-23:00; Thu, Fri 08:00-01:00; Sat 09:00-01:00;
offers regular workshops, lectures, live music, yoga and closed Sun.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 31
Nightlife
Does it get any more romantic than Vienna at night? | © Julius Silver, pixabay
Of all the wonderful things that Vienna has to offer, in general has and always will play an integral part in
nightlife is not the least of them. There is something for creating the bar’s atmosphere. The ceilings are high, which
everyone in this town, and we mean everyone. From trendy helps make this a cosy, inviting environment. When the
bars to Irish pubs, lounge clubs and underground locations, weather is nice, the garden is an excellent place to enjoy
offering all kinds of nocturnal fun you might be looking for. the company of friends. Besides some drinks you can enjoy
delicious breakfast, lunch or brunch on sundays.QF‑3,
Richtergasse 8, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 1 522 70 48,
BARS www.bluebox.at. Open 10:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-04:00.
BARFLY’S CLUB
This self-proclaimed ‘American bar with soul’ is perfect for CHAMPIONS
cocktail and whiskey lovers; there’s no other place in Vienna Football, American football, hockey, golf, baseball,
that will bring you as much satisfaction. Look no further basketball… you name it, they show it on their many
than the extensive cocktail list (over 350 varieties) to realise screens. In addition to being your one-stop shop for sports,
the league this bar is in. Eat before you arrive, because Champions features a menu filled with typical American
toast is the only food they offer.QE‑4, Esterhazygasse 33, dishes. The prices are decent, and you will definitely
MZieglergasse, tel. +43 1 586 08 25, www.barflys.at. get enough to eat. Since March 2011 you can also enjoy
Open 18:00-02:00; Sun 20:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-04:00. watching your favourite games in 3D.QC‑3, Parkring 12a,
MStubentor, tel. +43 1 515 18 89 01, www.champions.
BETTEL-ALM at. Open 07:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-
Though Vienna boasts several interesting places to spend 01:00.
the night carousing with friends, they all have something
in common: they are distinctly Viennese. In contrast, the DONAU
Bettelalm has a distinctly Salzburger feel to it. From the décor Located in a former synagogue, this bar has seen better
to the music and the drinks, the Bettelalm is reminiscent of and worse times since it appeared on the social radar in
après-ski and summer mountain locales in Salzburg.QB‑3, the 1980s. If you enjoy minimal techno and chill-out beats
Johannesgasse 12, MStadtpark, tel. +43 664 884 301 96, as background music, Donau is your place. It’s in a location
www.bettel-alm.at. Open 21:00–04:00; closed Sun, Mon. close to the Museumsquartier, which makes it a favourite
among students and young creative professionals. The prices
BLUE BOX are reasonable and the cathedral-like environment is worth a
Blue Box has been around for a long time and has reached visit.QG‑3, Karl Schweighofer Gasse 10, MNeubaugasse,
legend status in Vienna. Really, it’s much more than a bar. tel. +43 1 523 81 05, www.donautechno.com. Open
Artists have exhibitions, musicians film videos, and music 20:00-04:00; Sun 20:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 20:00-06:00.
32 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
HAMMOND BAR
This cocktail bar is located away from the city centre, WINE BARS
and with a quiet atmosphere and dimmed lighting, it’s
perfect for visitors who want to quietly sip their whiskey or MAST
champagne with their friends. The prices are relatively high, Whether you are looking simply for a glass of wine
but the quality of the drinks means that you are getting your or a substantial meal (or, indeed, both) then this
money’s worth.QH‑1, Taborstrasse 33, MTaborstrasse, is as good a place as any in Vienna. Serving many
tel. +43 1 968 92 15, www.hammondbar.at. Open different wines from a number of producers (with a
17:00–03:00; Sun 19:00-02:00; Sat 19:00-04:00. focus on organic and natural wines) Mast also offers
some genuinely outstanding food, from substantial
KLEINOD bar snacks to contemporary twists of classic Austrian
One of the most chic, exclusive cocktail bars in the city food. The lunchtime set menu is a bargain. The
becomes and even better place to hang out during the venue itself reflects the young team’s vision of food
summer, when it opens its magnificent roof terrace. Always and wine: simple yet elegant.QPorzellangasse 53,
packed with Vienna’s best-looking people it’s far from MFriedensbrucke, tel. +43 1 922 66 79, www.mast.
cheap but that’s just how the crowd who come here like wine. Open 12:00-14:00, 18:00-22:00. Sat, Sun 18:00-
it. Besides, this is just about the best bar in the city, and 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. PBSW
the best is never cheap. We love it.QSingerstrasse 7,
MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 03 25, www.kleinod. VILLON
wien. Open 15:30-04:00; Sun 17:00-02:00. With around 150 bottled and 25 open wines, Villon
is Vienna’s top winebar. The wines are all European,
LOOS BAR often from small producers and with an emphasis on
Designed by famous architect Adolf Loos in 1908, this bar’s Austria and Vienna. Snacks include fresh bread baked
design is definitely in accordance with one of Loos’ driving on the premises, cheese and bruschetta. Wine tasting
principles: cosiness. A tiny space, made to look larger is offered in the bar, but Villon is also the only city
than it is by the mirrors mounted along the walls above centre bar to offer extensive tours (Fri 16:00, Sat 17:00,
the wooden panelling, has only a handful of tables so be only in German; book in advance) of the wine cellars,
prepared to share with strangers. The beer selection is weak going 16 metres underground.QHabsburgergasse 4,
and overpriced, but the cocktails are top-notch. Quentin MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 967 91 29, www.villon.
Tarantino apparently had a blast here.QB‑2, Kärntner at. Open 15:00-22:30; closed Sun. Closed July-Aug.
Durchgang 10, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 32 83,
www.loosbar.at. Open 12:00-04:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-
05:00.
LUSTER BAR
CASINO
In a historic building which dates from 1902, and the CASINO WIEN
last days of Imperial Vienna, this amazing bar is a design Casino Wien is located at Palais Esterházy, the
sensation. The moment you walk in the bar will grab your oldest building on the famous Kärntner Strasse
attention, all metal and glass set in a space dominated right in the heart of Vienna, just a few steps away
by open brickwork. The atmosphere is hip, young and from St. Stephen’s Cathedral. The casino boasts a
successful: this is where some of the top Vienna style- perfect combination of historical elegance and
leaders come for drinks. Expert bar staff whip up a storm contemporary design. The Jackpot Cafe on the
behind the bar, putting together cocktails as good as ground floor creates a relaxed, casual atmosphere.
anywhere in the city. Something of a Vienna legend in the On the upper floors, guests will find an elegant
making.QWindmuhlgasse 32, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 world of salons with an exceptionally stylish
1 2642364. interior: the casino on the first floor radiates an
elegant British club atmosphere, with Roulette,
MATIKI BAR Black Jack, Macau Baccarat and other games
Cocktails as exotic as they come in the heart of Vienna. The creating extreme excitement. At the Cercle Bar,
concept of a tiki bar might have gone out of fashion for they serve freshly mixed cocktails and more. On the
a while a couple of decades or so ago, but it’s very much second floor, the Ovale & Chinese Salons boast a
back now, a global phenomenon, and Matiki is the first variety of gaming machines. Moments of pleasure
of its kind to open in the Austrian capital. The bar staff are and culinary delights at the highest level can be
skilled masters of their art, highly knowledgeable, friendly experienced in the Red & Grey Salons of the famous
and ready to mix you a drink you will not forget. Exactly the Casino Restaurant Wien.QB‑2, Kärntner Straße
kind of place Vienna needs more of, it’s a winner and we 41, MStephansplatz, Oper, tel. +43 1 512 48 36,
suggest you grab your hula skirt and get over there.QF‑3, www.wien.casinos.at. Jackpot Cafe: Daily 9:00-
Gardegasse 2, MVolkstheater, www.matiki.at. Open 04:00. Casino: Daily 14:00-04:00.
18:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-03:00; closed Sun. PW
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 33
Nightlife
TRAVEL SHACK
KARAOKE BARS Apart from a towel, all a young traveller really needs
can be found at Vienna’s first and lively international
LEMMON backpackers bar: cheap drinks, strong shots, sturdy
Tucked into a tiny corner near the Fleischmarkt, this tables for dancing on and fun activities. Expect both
is the only karaoke locale in the first district. Wireless travellers and locals, drinking games, karaoke, all kinds
microphones and monitors throughout the bar make of sports screenings and snacks like pizza, meat pie and
first-timers feel at ease, while seasoned performers can vegemite toasties. The fully air-conditioned bar has a
really get the crowd going. And don’t be afraid to really separate smoking room - a rarity in Vienna - with a pool
wail - the bar is completely sound-proofed.QC‑2, table. Crawling distance from hostels and the main train
Wolfengasse 1, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 699 11 station.QE‑4, Mariahilfer Gürtel 21, MWestbahnhof,
96 15 72, www.lemmon.at. Open 18:00-02:00; Fri, tel. +43 1 961 01 31, www.travelshackvienna.com.
Sat 18:00-04:00; closed Sun, Mon. Open 18:00-04:00. PGW
SING YOUR SONG
The small stage of this basement bar is where Vienna’s VOLKSGARTEN PAVILLON
hardcore karaoke fans come to strut their stuff. With Located in one of Vienna’s largest inner city parks and
beer on tap, specials on shots throughout the night, and overlooking Heldenplatz, this 1950s-style pavillion is a
outgoing (not to mention talented) DJs, Sing Your Song perfect place to stop for a coffee in the shade on a sunny
draws a colourful crowd of characters just about every afternoon. In the evenings when some of Vienna’s best DJs
night.QA‑3, Eschenbachgasse 5, MMuseumsquartier, take over the decks, the otherwise chill café might turn into
tel. +43 1 585 32 33, www.singyoursong.at. Open a wild party. Don´t miss their famous Tuesday night Techno
20:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 20:00-04:00; closed Sun. Cafe club.QA‑2, Burgring 1, MVolkstheater, tel. +43 1
532 09 07, www.volksgarten-pavillon.at. Open 11:00-
02:00.
OMU
Intimate cellar bar with brick walls and low lighting for CAFÉ BARS
relaxed cocktail-tasting sessions. The baristas also serve CAFÉ EUROPA
aperitifs – drop by on Thursday for after-work DJ music – If you need a chill environment to relax before you really
while the kitchen churns out delightful little snacks; have a begin your night, then you need to go this hip, modern
mini-burger.QKolingasse 7, MSchottentor, www.omu. café. Upbeat yet relaxed music adds to the café’s ambience
bar. Open 17:00-02:00; closed Sun, Mon, Tue. and the young clientele will help point you in the right
direction when you are ready to move on. Occasionally, the
SCHESCH BESCH BAR café hosts parties in the back half of the property, making
The Shesch Besch restaurant with its Caucasian and oriental your transition to the party scene that much easier.QF‑3,
food has a great bar that comes alive after dinner. Enjoy Zollergasse 8, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 1 526 33 83,
aperitifs and cocktails along with the aromatic shisha pipe www.europa-lager.at. Open 09:00-05:00.
flavours, and listen to music from the Caucasus and orient.
QB‑3, Schwarzenbergstrasse 4, MStadtpark, tel. +43 1 FREIRAUM
512 84 44, www.scheschbesch.at. Open Sun, Mon, Tue, A large and popular restaurant, lounge and bar right on the
Wed 10:00-00:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00-02:00. ATB main shopping street, with a selection of breakfast boxes
EJi and powerdrinks, brunches and dinners. The burger with
fries is great quality, and good value. In fact, you could
spend all day here, ending with a coffee or a few cocktails
SCHIKANEDER at the bar. Do book ahead if you’re set on eating here, as
This bar is a favourite drinking hole among the intellectuals it does get busy.QMariahilfer Str. 117, MWestbahnhof,
in Vienna’s Freihausviertel, attracting a mixed crowd of tel. +43 1 596 96 00, www.freiraum117.at. Open 08:00-
students, artists and other funky individuals. There are 02:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00-04:00.
couches in the back, but hang out alongside the old
wooden bar for more eye contact. Schikaneder also includes ROCHUS
a small cinema showing independent and experimental This hip café in the third district is a nice alternative to the
films.QG‑4, Margaretenstr. 24, MKettenbrückengasse, classic Viennese coffeehouse. The pipes running along the
tel. +43 1 585 28 67, www.schikaneder.at. Open 18:00- ceiling are a bit of an eyesore, but the food is great and
04:00. the atmosphere is very inviting. This is a wonderful place
to sit outside on a summer morning and enjoy brunch.
QI‑3, Landstrasse Hauptstr. 55-57, MRochusgasse,
Full contents online: tel. +43 1 710 10 60, www.rochus.at. Open Sun, Mon
vienna.inyourpocket.com 08:00-01:00; Tue, Wed 08:00-03:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00-
04:00.
34 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
WERKZEUGH
This special place came to be thanks to an architecture GAY VIENNA
project for students at the university who wanted to do
more than just make a theoretical plan. Now, it is a chill
place for those who need a quiet space to study, work or
read in a smoke-free environment. WerkzeugH also features
interesting art exhibits and events that focus on various
topics.QG‑4, Schönbrunnerstr. 61, MPilgramgasse, tel.
+43 1 720 73 52 62, www.werkzeugh.at. Open 18:00-
01:00.
VOLKSGARTEN
Volksgarten is always a happening place, no matter
what night of the week it is. From hip-hop to dance to
alternative, your music tastes will be featured at this central
venue. You don’t have to dress to the nines, but you should
dress stylish.QA‑2, Burgring, MVolkstheater, tel. +43 1
Ra’mien 533 05 18, www.volksgarten.at.
36 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
JAZZ CLUBS
1019 JAZZCLUB
There’s live Jazz music 6 nights a week at the 1019, a club
north of the city centre named after an Eric Gales song.
The audience comes in early for the great atmosphere and
good food including ravioli and organic Angus burgers
plus the local wines and craft beers - and hangs on for
the great music.QAlthanstr. 12, tel. +43 1 300 11 12,
www.1019jazzclub.at. Open 19:00-02:00; closed Sun.
The first district, surrounded by the majestic imperial DANUBE TOWER VIENNA
buildings along the Ringstrasse, is Vienna’s historical centre. Initially designed for the Viennese International Horticultural
Many of the important sights, such as the impressive St. Show in 1964, the Donauturm (Danube Tower) is now an
Stephen’s Cathedral, the gigantic Hofburg, Vienna’s town integral part of Vienna’s skyline. Found near the northern
hall, and many of the main museums are located here, all bank of the Danube in the very centre of the Donaupark, it
within walking distance. But a lot of essential Vienna lies is the tallest structure in Austria, although this is clear to see
beyond it. Outlying sights, such as Schloß Schönbrunn, or from its imposing presence. 776 steps lead to the viewing
the funfair and parks of the Prater are musts for every visitor. platform at 150 metres, although there are a couple of
Using public transport to get to these places is easy. elevators that will do the work if you aren’t exactly thrilled
by the prospect of the walk. A restaurant and cafe are found
at the viewing platform, offering magnificent 360 degree
MAIN SIGHTS views of one of the world’s great cities. There is a bungee
BELVEDERE site here in summer, perfect for those after something a little
Named for the Italian phrase for “beautiful view”, the more extreme. QDonauturmstr. 4, MKaisermühlen/VIC,
Belvedere palace complex was originally conceived as a tel. +43 1 263 35 72, www.donauturm.at. Open 10:00-
summer country estate for Prince Eugene of Savoy, one of 24:00. last ride up at 23:30.
the most celebrated military heroes in European history. His
impressive collection of artwork is displayed here, along with HOFBURG
more recent additions from the royal Habsburg holdings. Home to the Habsburg monarchy for more than six
The Upper Belvedere’s major attraction is undoubtedly centuries, the ten major buildings comprising the Hofburg
Gustav Klimt’s famous painting The Kiss, which can also be complex represent the splendour and influence of what
seen on countless scarves, mugs, posters and other trinkets was once the mightiest empire in Europe. While this
sold by surrounding shops and street vendors. While most has been the site of countless decisive historical events,
visitors skip the Lower Belvedere, its collection of curiously the sweeping arcaded façade of the Neue Burg earned
troubling Messerschmidt heads make the extra few euros worldwide notoriety in April of 1938, when Adolf Hitler
for a combination ticket well worthwhile. To get here, take spoke to a crowd of 200,000 people from its central
tram D to the Schloss Belvedere stop.QC‑4, Prinz-Eugen- balcony. Nearly every Austrian monarch has left his (or
Str. 27, tel. +43 1 79 55 70, www.belvedere.at. Open her) fingerprint on the layout of this palace, resulting
10:00-18:00; Wed 10:00-21:00. Admission €3.50-13.50. in a stylistic mishmash and a wide array of museums.
Guides/audioguides €4/3. Maps in several languages are posted in the courtyards
38 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
throughout the complex, but here are the highlights:
the Schatzkammer (Imperial Treasury) houses the crown
jewels, as well as the nail supposed to have pierced Christ’s
right hand and the so-called Spear of Destiny. If you’re
into impressive baroque interiors, the reading room of The Electric Jesus?
the Nationalbibliothek (National Library) is a highlight. For
those with a fascination for sordid dynastic family histories,
a ticket to the Kaiserappartements (Emperor’s Apartments)
The People’s Mother
includes the Silberkammer (Silver Vault) and Sisimuseum
(Sisi Museum), lending an intimate insight into the private
Theresa?
lives of Emperor Franz Joseph and his wife, Elizabeth of
Bavaria (better known locally as Sisi). The dancing white A Dude Who
Lippizaner horses of the Spanische Hofreitschule (Spanish
Riding School) perform here, as well as the boy sopranos Deadlifts Cattle?
and altos of the Wiener Sängerknaben (Vienna Boys’ Choir)
QA‑2, Heldenplatz, MVolkstheater, tel. +43-1-533 75
70, www.hofburg-wien.at. Open Sept-June 09:00-17:30,
July-Aug 09:00-18:00. Admission €13,90/8,20, Sisi Ticket
€29,90/18.
HUNDERTWASSER-KRAWINAHAUS
This vibrant and fanciful public housing complex, now an
iconic landmark of the work of Austria’s own architectural
iconoclast, Friedensreich Hundertwasser, regularly tops lists
of visitors’ favourite sights in Vienna. As you can probably
tell by the Gaudi-esque shapes and colourful palate,
Hundertwasser embraced a playful, environmentally-
focused artistic philosophy. He proclaimed that straight
lines were “godless and immoral,” that every building
should have as many trees as tenants, that rolling, uneven
floors were “a divine melody to the feet,” and that access
to a window was a basic human right. While entering the
building is not permitted (it is a private residence for 52
families and 250 trees and shrubs), the Kunsthaus Wien,
located just down Untere Weißgerberstraße, features a
small museum and café dedicated to this controversial eBook
figure.QI‑2, Kegelgasse 37-39, M1 tram Hetzgasse, tel.
+43 1 710 41 16, www.hundertwasserhaus.info.
also
available
MUSEUMSQUARTIER WIEN
Formerly the imperial court stables, the MuseumQuarter Wien
complex now functions as a lively meeting point for young
artists, musicians and students. The ten museums and venues Artists, scientists, revolutionaries,
housed here focus on fostering the creation of art as well as
its appreciation, so exhibitions, performances and workshops athletes, spies, inventors, alcoholic
in a range of disciplines (as well as free wireless internet) swimmers, and a woman who fell
are offered to the public year-round. In warm weather, the from heaven. The good and the great
central courtyard features a pétanque field, mini-racecar track,
outdoor bars and restaurants, and distinctive brightly coloured of the Slavic world, all between two
outdoor couch-like Enzis, so you can grab a cold beer and delicious covers
get to know the locals. Keep an eye on the schedule for their
indoor and outdoor events in both summer and winter.QG‑3,
Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 523 58
81, www.mqw.at. Admission free to the courtyard. go to www.poshlostbooks.com
for more information
Full contents online: FB - An Illustrated History of Slavic Misery
IG - @slavicmisery
vienna.inyourpocket.com
SPANISCHE HOFREITSCHULE
(SPANISH RIDING SCHOOL)
The oldest riding academy in the world, this fixture in
Habsburg imperial history has perpetuated the High School
of Classical Horsemanship with their famous white Lippizaner
horses for more than 430 years. Performances can be pricey
and sell out quickly, so attending a morning exercise (daily
Tuesday through Saturday, 09:00-12:00) can be a good
Schoenbrunn Palace, Vienna, Austria © mRGB
alternative, although the showier dressage elements are
usually left out.QA‑2, Michaelerplatz 1, MHerrengasse,
IRRGARTEN SCHÖNBRUNN (LABYRINTH) tel. +43 1 533 90 31, www.srs.at. Visitor centre open Tue-
Situated amid the expansive and highly manicured Sun 09:00-16:00, Fri when there is a performance 09:00-
baroque gardens of the Habsburg summer residence, the 19:00. Visitor Centre admission free; show tickets €12-116.
topiary maze and labyrinth of Schönbrunn date back to
original 17th century layouts intended for the amusement STEPHANSDOM
of the palace’s royal residents and guests. These days, the Even if you’re in European church overload, this is one
attractions are open to the rest of us, presenting a series cathedral you don’t want to skip. This location has
of twists, turns, riddles and interactive puzzles to challenge functioned as the religious, cultural and geographic centre
and enchant visitors of all ages. QSchloss Schönbrunn, of Vienna for more than eight centuries, a history which can
MHietzing, tel. +43 1 811 132 39, www.schoenbrunn. practically be traced through the basilica’s mish-mash of
at. Open 09:00-18:00. Admission € 6/3,50. architectural styles. If you can believe it, there are even more
legends surrounding this landmark than there are tourists,
RIESENRAD so taking a tour is strongly recommended, especially
The most recognizable attraction of the Wurstelprater is later in the day once the guided tour groups have passed
undoubtedly the iconic Riesenrad, or Ferris wheel at the through.QB‑2, Stephansplatz, MStephansplatz, tel.
park’s entrance. Erected in 1897 to celebrate the Golden +43 1 513 76 48, www.stephanskirche.at. Open 06:00-
Jubilee of Emperor Franz Joseph, it ranks among the world’s 22:00. Nave closed during services. Admission free.
oldest and largest Ferris wheels, reaching a height of 64.75 Tours €1,50-14,50.
meters. The Riesenrad gained international fame through
the 1949 classic film, The Third Man when one of the cabins
was the scene of a pivotal argument between Orson Welles MUSEUMS
and Joseph Cotton. A visit to Vienna can hardly be complete ALBERTINA
without a ride on this historic giant and the breathtaking Vienna’s iconic Albertina museum holds the world’s largest
views from the top.QI‑1, Riesenradplatz 1, MPraterstern, collection of graphic art, with Monet, Picasso, Van Gogh,
tel. +43 1 729 54 30, www.wienerriesenrad.com. Open Renoir, Degas and many more in the permanent collection.
09:00-24:00. Tickets €12/5. The plush 19th century Empire-style state rooms are
juxtaposed by the striking new titanium wing designed
SCHLOSS SCHÖNBRUNN by Hans Hollein, reflecting the museum’s characteristic
This magnificent summer palace of the Habsburg royalty synthesis of classical and modern artwork. With its
truly embodies the opulence of the Baroque era, from
its topiary maze and minutely manicured gardens to the
ornately detailed interiors. Several tour packages offer
access to the highlights of its 1,441 rooms, which have
witnessed imperial births and deaths, the signings of
treaties, legendary performances, and a veritable who’s who
of European history. A visit to Schönbrunn isn’t complete
without a walk around the park grounds; the Tiergarten is
the oldest continuously running zoo in the world, and while
modest in scale, it boasts a comprehensive feeding schedule
and well-designed enclosures. If you’re the more intrepid
sort, definitely opt for a hike up the hill to the ornamental
Gloriette, where you can refuel with Kaffee and a Kipferl,
just like Empress Maria Theresa did more than 250 years Albertina © Julius Silver, pixabay
VERTIGO
ARCHITEKTURZENTRUM WIEN
The Austrian Museum of Architecture is an internationally
respected institution, and it doesn’t take long to
understand why. The history and development of
architecture in a country defined by the art is extensively
VertiGO Op Art
documented, explored and celebrated here, with und
permanent exhibitions alongside workshops, guided eine Geschichte
des schwindels
tours, city exhibitions and more than 500 special 1520–1970
events throughout the year. This is one of the most
credible homages to architecture on the planet, and 25.5.– 26.10.2019
has long served as a comprehensive hub for researchers
from all over the globe.QG‑3, Museumsplatz 1,
MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 521 31 15 30,
www.azw.at. Open 10:00-19:00. Admission €7/4.50.
Admission €11/8,50/6.
GEMÄLDEGALERIE DER AKADEMIE DER wing. Audio guides in four languages included.QI‑4,
BILDENDEN KÜNSTE WIEN Arsenal Objekt 1, MSüdbahnhof, tel. +43 1 79 56 10,
(HOSTED AT THE THEATERMUSEUM) www.hgm.at. Open 09:00-17:00. Admission €6/4, first
The Gemäldegalerie has temporarily relocated to the Sun in the month free.
Theatermuseum until 2020, but the magnificent array
of paintings remains arrestingly engaging. Some of HOFMOBILIENDEPOT
the most important artists in Europe’s long and storied Formerly the Imperial and Royal Furniture storehouse
history of creativity are showcased, with masters such of the Habsburgs, this unique museum catalogues
as Rubens, Rembrandt and Titian found on the elegant the history of the imperial family through its extensive
walls. The slightly eccentric ‘Last Judgment’ altarpiece by collection of impeccably handcrafted furnishings.QF‑3,
Hieronymus Bosch might be the main event, dating as it Andreasgasse 7, MZieglergasse, tel. +43 1 81 11 30,
does from the early 1500s. Vienna is an art’s lover’s dream, www.hofmobiliendepot.at. Open 10:00-18:00; closed
and the Gemäldegalerie is a definite must-visit.QH‑2, Mon. Admission €9,50/6.
Lobkowitzplatz 2, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 588 16
22 01, fax +43 1 588 16 22 99, www.akademiegalerie.at. KAISERLICHE SCHATZKAMMER WIEN
Open 10:00-18:00; closed Tue. Admission €12/9 - free up (IMPERIAL TREASURY VIENNA)
to 18 years. AU In the Hofburg’s oldest inner courtyard, the Habsburg
Imperial Treasury contains a fascinating array of many of
HEERESGESCHICHTLICHES MUSEUM the empire’s most valuable artefacts. Gape at the crown
(MUSEUM OF MILITARY HISTORY) jewels, ornate reliquaries, monstrances, embroidered
The Museum of Military History features a survey of vestments, a splinter of the ‘true cross’ (plus one of the
Austrian and European conflict spanning more than nails). There’s also the enigmatic Spear of Destiny, long
four centuries, all presented within Vienna’s former believed to have been the one thrust into Christ’s side,
barracks and armoury. Artefacts, arms and armour from and credited with granting (at least temporary) world
practically every continental conflict since the 17th domination to its long list of powerful owners, among
century include original Turkish tents, the car and couch others, Barbarossa, Constantine the Great, Charlemagne
where Emperor Franz Ferdinand was shot and died, and Hitler.QA‑2, Hofburg, MVolkstheater, tel. +43 1
Nazi propaganda, various aircraft, a tank garden and 525 2 40, www.kaiserliche-schatzkammer.at. Open
(remarkably for a landlocked country) an extensive naval 09:00-17:30; closed Tue. Admission €12/9.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 41
Sightseeing
Dürer), the west wing boasts a comprehensive overview
of important Spanish and Italian works (Titian, Raphael,
Caravaggio, Tintoretto, Velásquez). Egyptian, near East,
Greek and Roman antiquities and the Kunstkammer with
the most wonderful of artworks, such as the world famous
»Saliera« (salt cellar) by Benvenuto Cellini, make up the
ground floor.QA‑3, Burgring 5, MVolkstheater, tel. +43
1 52 52 40, www.khm.at/en/. Open 10:00-18:00; Thu
10:00-21:00; closed Mon. June to August: open every
day. Admission €16/12, audioguides €5.
KUNSTRAUM NIEDEROESTERREICH
The official art space of Lower Austria at 13 Herrengasse
in the middle of Vienna has been open admission free to
visitors since 2005. With attractive architecture and a floor
area of 300 square metres in Palais Niederösterreich, the
former Lower Austrian Government building, the Kunstraum
provides facilities for the presentation of work by young
Austrian and international artists. Here, they can show their
work to the public without the pressure of having to meet
Leopold Museum ©Julia Spicker sales targets or visitor quotas while still being at the centre
of cultural life in the city.QA‑2, Herrengasse 13, tel. +43
KUNSTHALLE WIEN 1 904 21 11, www.kunstraum.net. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat
Behind the elegant Baroque façade of the Museumsquartier 11:00-15:00; closed Sun, Mon.
building, the Kunsthalle is one of the most vibrant
contemporary art venues in Europe, and Vienna’s main LEOPOLD MUSEUM
exhibition space for contemporary art. Expect themed Inside the Museum Quarter complex, the sleek white
group exhibitions, exciting solo exhibitions, retrospectives Leopold Museum boasts the world’s largest collection of
and works by emerging artists. The Kunsthalle has a work by expressionist Egon Schiele, as well as important
second space on Karlsplatz, at (B-3) Treitlstrasse 2.QB‑3, pieces by Gustav Klimt, Oskar Kokoschka and other major
Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 521 Austrian artists from the 19th and 20th centuries. The
89 33, www.kunsthallewien.at. Open 11:00-19:00; Thu architecture of the Leopold Museum, a light-filled cube
11:00-21:00. Admission Museumsquartier €8, Karlsplatz of white shell limestone, stands in striking contrast to the
€3, combined €12. historic ambience of the Imperial Stables.Tip: The museum’s
panorama windows offer a wonderful view of central
KUNSTHAUS WIEN Vienna and the Hofburg Palace.QG‑3, Museumsplatz
The Museum Hundertwasser was founded by Friedensreich 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 52 57 00, www.
Hundertwasser, one of the most important Austrian artists of leopoldmuseum.org. Open 10:00–18:00; Thu 10:00-
the twentieth century. The Museum Hundertwasser unites the 21:00; closed Tue. Admission €14/10, Audioguide €4.
most important aspects of his oeuvre and exhibits the largest
collection in the world of his paintings, printed graphics, MADAME TUSSAUDS
tapestries and architectural designs. Vienna’s first „green The Vienna branch of the world famous wax museum
museum“ also gives its visitors the chance to experience features more than 80 lifelike wax figures of stars,
Friedensreich Hundertwasser’s visionary ecological politicians, celebrities and musicians from around the
commitment – he experimented with grass roofs and planted world. In addition to typical international favourites, the
trees in building facades. The Bistro in the KUNST HAUS WIEN collection also includes many Austrian figures. Mozart,
serves vegetarian delicacies – also in the romantic garden. Falco, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Freud, Klimt and Conchita
QI‑2, Untere Weißgerberstraße 13, MRadetzkyplatz, tel. Wurst are ready and infinitely patient for pictures with fans.
+43 1 712 04 91, www.kunsthauswien.com. Open 10:00- QI‑1, Riesenradplatz, MPraterstern, tel. +43 1 890 33
18:00. Admission € 10/5, Combined ticket € 12. 66, www.madametussauds.com/wien. Open 10:00-
18:00. Last entry 17:00. Admission €20,5/16,5.
KUNSTHISTORISCHES MUSEUM
Nowhere in Vienna will you experience a more salient MOZARTHAUS VIENNA
account of Austrian imperial history. The building’s layout A centre devoted to the life and works of Austria’s musical
even echoes the geography of the Habsburg monarchy genius, housed in the last remaining of Mozart’s apartments.
- the impressive central stairwell represents the Alps and The composer lived here in grand style from 1784-87. In
divides the two major European artistic schools. While the addition to the historical Mozart apartment, visitors can
east wing contains all of the northern German, Flemish find out about the times in which Mozart lived and his
and Dutch pieces (Rubens, Bruegel, Rembrandt, Vermeer, most important works. The exhibition focuses on his years
42 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
MASTERPIECES
SCHIELE & KLIMT
www.leopoldmuseum.org
Max Halberstadt, Sigmund Freud, 1921, Foto: Sigmund Freud Privatstiftung/Imagno/picturedesk.com
Josef Hoffmann, Brosche, Sammlung Grubman, Foto: © Auktionshaus im Kinsky | Weitere Werke: © Leopold Museum, Wien (Details)
© Agentur Wulz
There are few cities in Europe where the Jewish population JEWISH RENAISSANCE AND
has been so deeply ingrained, and yet, has experienced such
devastation during the persistent waves of anti-Semitism THE RISE OF ANTI-SEMITISM
and in the World War II, as Vienna. The historical, political and The years following the Revolution of 1848 were quite stable
economic contribution of the Jewish community into this and prosperous for the Jewish community. The presence of
city’s past and present can hardly be underestimated. It would the Jews became obvious in the city’s social, economic and
suffice to say that three of four Nobel Prize Winners from Austria political life. Anti-Semitic feelings were formented by many
were Jewish. Luminaries such as the father of psychoanalysis of Vienna’s public officials and politicians, one of the most
Sigmund Freud, writers Arthur Schnitzler and Stefan Zweig, radical of them being Dr. Karl Lueger, the Mayor of Vienna
composers Gustav Mahler and Emmerich Kalman, and the from 1897 to 1910. Early in the 20th century, twenty-one
founder of modern Zionist movement Theodore Herzl, all lived members of the extreme anti-Semitic All-Deutsche Partei
and worked here and were all of Jewish origin. were elected into parliament.
When it comes to shopping, the Vienna scene really runs of his customer’s needs.QF‑3, Siebensterngasse 52,
the gamut from large fashion chains to small boutiques, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 1 923 13 16, www.arnolds.at.
from designer labels to offbeat artisans. The sheer variety Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; closed Sun.
of retailers merits an extended shopping tour, but for those
with something more specific in mind, we’ve got a few KARIN KASAJ
recommendations on where to start. Unique Italian brands, such as Rinascimento, Sistes or Rich
& Royal, await the trendiest fashion-followers at these two
locations. You can be assured you’ll be the only lucky one
FASHION in town to wear these classy outfits - they are shipped
While Vienna definitely has no shortage of major brand directly from Milan. Broad selection of elegant clothing for
names featuring both extravagant luxury collections and ladies from business attires to evening dresses. Stylish shirts
informal street-style fashion, we thought that rather than and jackets for men are also available from their online
listing the ever-present Benettons, H&Ms and Zaras of the catalogue.QB‑2, Wollzeile 12, MStephansplatz, tel. +43
world, we would direct you to some of Vienna’s numerous 1 513 25 49, www.karinkasaj.at. Open 10:00-18:30; Sat
hidden treasures that sell unique items not to be found on 10:00-18:00; closed Sun.
every street corner in every other city. Most of the shops
mentioned here are located in the city’s up-and-coming MICHAELA ARL DE LIMA
districts where trendy style-conscious people live and work Michaela Arl De Lima’s atelier and shop sells finest
- Freihausviertel, Naschmarkt and Neubau. handcrafted jewellery, and jewellered items such as leather
purses and clutchbags. There’s also quirky ‘doggyjewellery’:
ARNOLD’S decorated dog collars and leashes made of leather and
Jakub Arnold, a former Managing Director with Carhartt’s, tweed.QF‑3, Lindengasse 25, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43
opened in 2010 this new edgy boutique in which he 676 84 67 70 10, www.michaelaarldelima.com. Open
offers an eclectic range of appealing fashion labels. In its Mon 11:00-17:00; Tue 11:00-18:00; Wed 11:00-17:00;
refurbished splendour, the shop features a wide range of Thu 11:00-18:00; Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; closed
international brands, such as the Japanese premium denim Sun.
label Edwin Jeans, the American shoe brand Red Wing
Shoes, timeless jackets by Carhartt, sunglass collection by
RetroSUPERfuture, modern design from denmark named Get the In Your Pocket
NorseProjects, and much more. With years of experience in
the world of fashion, Jakub Arnold has acquired an innate City Essentials App
sense for trends and cuts, but above all else, an awareness
48 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Shopping
ROLF SHOP WIEN WIENER SILBER MANUFACTUR
The new ROLF shop wien, housed in a wonderful Wiener Silber Manufactur is a genuine piece of Vienna`s
wooden building, sells very special and fashionable cultural identity, looking back over more than 100 years of
award-winning eyewear, designed and handcrafted in history. Ever since, the company sought to collaborate with
the Tirol region in the Alps. They are produced in-house the most significant designers of its time in order to produce
using natural materials (wood, stone and horn), without pioneering objects in silver that combine outstanding
any metal or screws. Innovations include the unique design with the mastery of silversmith. The company offers
wooden hinge and the patented lens-glazing system. classichighlights and icons of Vienna Design around 1900
QFranziskanerplatz 3, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 that captivate with their clear and functional elegance, f.e.
29 84, www.rolf-spectacles.com. Open Tue, Wed, Thu, Josef Hoffmann’s revolutionary cutlery no. 135, created
Fri 10:00-13:00;14:00-18:30; Sat 11:00-17:00; closed in 1902, as well as a range of fascinating contemporary
Sun, Mon. objects by internationally renowned designers such as
Zaha Hadid, Wolfgang Joop, Erwin Wurm, and many more.
QB‑2, Spiegelgasse 14, tel. +43 1 513 05 00, www.
FLOWERS wienersilbermanufactur.com. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat
SÄDTLER 10:00-13:00; closed Sun.
Probably the most exclusive florist in Vienna, Sädtler has
supplied beautiful bouquets, wreaths and other floral
arrangements for all occasions since the 19th century. GOURMET FOOD & DRINK
Plants are also in abundance, and deliveries are made JULIUS MEINL AM GRABEN
throughout the city. The main location next to the Opera Vienna’s legendary epicurean temple offers chic but pricey
house is particularly fascinating – even the decorated foodstuffs on two levels, plus an excellent wine bar and an
window is a wonder to behold.QA‑3, Opernring 13, upmarket restaurant-bar on the upper floor. If you crave for
MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 587 42 19, www.saedtler.at. Open any kind of food hard to get elsewhere in the city, try here.
09:00-19:00; Sat 09:00-17:00; closed Sun. The café downstairs is quite popular with both locals and
tourists.QB‑2, Graben 19, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1
532 33 34, www.meinlamgraben.at. Open 08:00-24:00;
GIFTS & SOUVENIRS Sat 09:00-24:00; closed Sun. Restaurant open 08:00-
AUGARTEN WIEN 24:00, Saturday 09:00-24:00; Wine bar open Mon-Sat
Augarten porcelain is famous for its delicate and graceful 11:00-24:00, Sun closed; Shop open Mon-Fri 08:00-
shape and exquisite details. Combining sophisticated 19:30, Sat 09:00-18:00.
craftsmanship, artistic design and the latest technical
equipment. Augarten uniquely blends time-honoured SCHÖNBICHLER
tradition with a contemporary approach to art. The finest Purveyors of finest tea, three generations of the
porcelain is still produced and hand painted at the Augarten Schönbichlers have run this opulent historic tea shop with
Castle.QH‑1, Spiegelgasse 3, MStephansplatz, tel. love and devotion since 1870. Black, green, herbal, white,
+43 1 512 14 94, www.augarten.at. Open 10:00-18:00; red, fruit teas, you name it, they’ve got it! It is also one
closed Sun. of very few places where you can experience authentic
English afternoon tea, or a traditional Japanese tea
ÖSTERREICHISCHE WERKSTÄTTEN ceremony. Exclusive liquors, as well as Japanese, Chinese
This large showcase store should be on your must- and German porcelain, and even Russian samovars are also
see list even if you decide not to buy anything. The sold here.QB‑2, Wollzeile 4, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1
choice of handmade jewellery, glassware, ceramics and 513 68 15, www.schoenbichler.at.
pewter is the largest in Vienna.QB‑2, Kärntnerstrasse
6, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 24 18, www.
austrianarts.com. Open 10:00-18:30; Sat 10:00-18:00;
closed Sun.
TAX-FREE SHOPPING
Citizens from outside the EU (and EU citizens resident
SWAROVSKI WIEN elsewhere) can save money by claiming a VAT refund
In the heart of the Austrian capital at Kärntner Strasse 24 a for the purchases while in Vienna. The Global Blue tax
fantastic world of crystal, the fusion of a stunning product refund service is easy to use. When buying an item at
spectrum and artistic installations, awaits you. Swarovski a shop, ask for a tax refund cheque. At the airport or
Wien entices into a shopping landscape on three levels border show this together with the item in question at
displaying jewelry, accessories, decor objects and figurines, the customs desk to get the cheque stamped, and then
invites to an exclusive Moët & Chandon Bar and enchants proceed to the Global Blue Customer desk with your
with magical installations from world renowned artists. passport for the cash or credit card refund. You’ll get the
QB‑2, Kärntner Strasse 24, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 VAT on these items refunded, minus a commission. For
1 324 00 00, www.swarovski.com/wien. Open 09:00- more information see www.global-blue.com.
21:00; Sat 09:00-18:00; closed Sun.
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 49
Shopping
STAUD’S The flagship Vienna store at Stephensplatz is as wonderfully
Since 1947, the Staud family has been pampering the understated, elegant and essential as you would expect. As
Viennese and the world with the most exceptional fruit jams Viennese as Mozart, a visit should be part of every trip to
and preserves from this corner store on Yppenplatz and nearby the city.QB‑2, Stephansplatz 5, MStephansplatz, tel.
factory on Hubergasse. Hans Staud, the current owner, has +43 1 513 48 92, www.freywille.com. Open 10:00-19:00;
been in this business for forty years and still greets customers Sat 10:00-17:00; closed Sun. Also at Albertinaplatz 1/
in his original, though recently revitalized, marmalade Lobkowitzplatz 1.
emporium. Five million jars of amazing all-fruit preserves,
sliced fruit, syrups, chutneys, as well as a huge variety of
pickled vegetables are produced and shipped worldwide SPECIALTY SHOPS
every year.QE‑2, Brunnengasse/Schellhammergasse, ALTMANN & KÜHNE
MJosefstädterstrasse, tel. +43 1 406 88 05 21, www. A real pearl for all chocolate aficionados, Altmann &
stauds.com. Open Tue, Wed, Thu 08:00-12:30; Fri 08:00- Kühne sells tiny hand-made sweet sensations, called
12:30;15:30-18:00; Sat 08:00-12:30; closed Sun, Mon. Liliputkonfekt, that are just way too beautiful to be eaten.
Packed in colourful boxes, these pralines with decadent
XOCOLAT taste and silky texture will be a special and well-appreciated
This city has long been a sweet-tooth’s paradise, but gift to bring home. Located on Graben for over 100 years,
Xocolat with its eye-popping selection of truffles, the store used to supply chocolates to His Majesty himself
marzipans, nougats and filled chocolates in every shape - need we say more?QB‑2, Graben 30, MStephansplatz,
and form is about as exclusive as it gets. You are sure to get tel. +43 1 533 09 27, www.altmann-kuehne.at. Open
lured into this place and marvel at the sweet temptation. 09:00-18:30; Sat 10:00-17:00; closed Sun.
Just remember that decadence doesn’t come cheap.QA‑1,
Freyung Passage 2, MHerrengasse, tel. +43 1 535 43 63, ALT WIEN KAFFEERÖSTEREI
www.xocolat.at. Open 10:00-18:30; Sun 12:00-17:00; Sat Possibly the only professional coffee roaster in town, Old
10:00-18:00. Vienna lures customers with the irresistible aroma of
more than twenty different sorts of coffee roasted and
packaged for you right in the premises. From Old Vienna
HOME INTERIOR & DESIGN Gold to Jamaican Blue Mountain, a variety of blends
STILWERK WIEN would satisfy even the pickiest of the coffee lovers. Aroma-
Germany’s most luxurious chain of one-stop interior design protecting bags will ensure that your coffee remains fresh
department stores that operates in Berlin, Hamburg and long after you bring it home.QG‑3, Schleifmühlgasse
Düsseldorf has finally expanded south and set up a chic 23, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 505 08 00, www.altwien.at.
design centre in Vienna showcasing 28 stores on four levels. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00; closed Sun.
From bedroom accessories and garden furniture to kitchen
decorations and lighting - - find here all you need to make J&L LOBMEYR
your home or office modern, stylish and comfortable. This unique store was founded in 1823 and has become a
Furthermore you can enjoy the best steaks of the town in real legend on Vienna’s chic Kärntnerstrasse. It specializes
Argentinean ambiance at „El Gaucho“ Steakhouse.QC‑1, in mouth-blown glass, hand-cut glass, hand-painted
Praterstrasse 1, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 212 06 porcelain and not least in beautiful chandeliers proudly
10 50, www.stilwerk.at. Open Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri exhibited today at places like the Vienna State Opera, the
10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. Kremlin in Moscow and the Metropolitan Opera in New
York. Don’t miss the fascinating collection of their glass
TUCHLAUBEN museum on the third floor.QB‑2, Kärntnerstrasse 26,
The Lederleitner Home Concept Store offers high-quality MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 05 08, www.lobmeyr.
souvenirs and gifts, accessories, books, magazines and at. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Sun.
lifestyle products, contemporary furniture and home
decoration ideas for kitchen, living room and bathroom.
QTuchlauben 7a, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 537 11 WINE SHOPS
11, www.lederleitner.at. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00- WEIN & CO
18:00; closed Sun. With eight locations throughout the city, Wein & Co.
is Vienna’s largest chain of wine shops and bars. The
new flagship store on Mariahilferstrasse boasts a stylish
JEWELLERY & WATCHES wine bar and a restaurant with business lunch for
FREY WILLE under €10 on weekdays. Other central branches are at
Founded right here in Vienna in 1951, Frey Wille has Jasomirgottstrasse 3-5 (M Stephansplatz), Universitätsring
become one of the world’s best-loved contemporary 12 (M Schottentor), and Getreidemarkt 1 (M Karlsplatz).
jewellers. Its colourful creations, based on 19th and 20th QF‑3, Mariahilferstrasse 36, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43
century works of art are instantly recognisable and can 1 507 063 022, www.weinco.at. Open 10:00-02:00; Sun
now be bought at more than 90 shops across the globe. 15:00-24:00.
50 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Wellness & Beauty
© InterContinental Wien
Many of the big, traditional hotels are located near the CAPRICORNO
Ringstrasse, which circles Vienna´s city centre. The room At Hotel Capricorno you are ‘life inside’ the centre of Vienna.
prices that we list are rack rates; the price you pay may The hotel located at the Donaukanal presents itself colourful
be different depending on the season, holidays, weekend and cheerful; multi-coloured like life, just a few walking
offers, and special events. minutes away from St. Stephan’s cathedral. Restaurants,
coffees, bars and the nightlife at the ‘Bermuda Triangle’ as well
as metro, tram the Twin-City-Liner are just around the corner.
HOTELS QC‑1, Schwedenplatz 3-4, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 1
ALTSTADT VIENNA 53 33 10 4 0, www.schick-hotels.com. APGLW
The Altstadt is a meeting place for artists, musicians and
travellers looking for a characteristic hotel with good CITY CENTRAL
service. Art can be found all over the hotel, from the The Hotel City Central is the ‚smart’ choice for your
reception and the rooms to the exhibitions in the Red holiday in the centre of Vienna at an attractive price-
Salon. The rooms are all different, with high ceilings, plump performance ratio. Very special attention is given to the
floral sofas, classic and designer furniture, honey-coloured rich breakfast buffet as well as to apartments and family
parquet floors, unusual lighting and contemporary art. rooms perfectly suitable for families.QC‑1, Taborstrasse
The English-style Red Salon accommodates the superb 8, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 21 10 50, www.schick-
breakfast buffet as well as a bar, where you can relax by hotels.com. APGTULW
the fireplace.QF‑3, Kirchengasse 41, MVolkstheater,
tel. +43 1 522 66 66, www.altstadt.at. 42 rooms (singles
€119-169, doubles: €139-209, suites €169-369). AG
SYMBOL KEY
TW T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
BRISTOL P Air conditioning H Conference facilities
The Bristol has welcomed many guests of international O Casino M Nearest U/S-Bahn station
standing, and its Bristol Lounge restaurant is well-known for
being one of the city’s best. Be sure to request a room with F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms
a balcony facing the opera, or book one of the impressive K Restaurant R Internet W Wi-Fi
tower suites. QB‑3, Kärntner Ring 1, MKarlsplatz, tel.
D Sauna L Guarded parking
+ 43 1 51 51 60, www.starwoodhotels.com. 150 rooms
(doubles €269-364, suites €509-4,400). APGT C Swimming pool A Credit cards accepted
URWKHF
52 Vienna In Your Pocket vienna.inyourpocket.com
Hotels
HILTON VIENNA PLAZA
Experienced travellers would always know what to expect
from a Hilton, and this one smack in the middle of Vienna
next to the university and the stock exchange is no
exception. Rooms are traditionally but tastefully decorated.
Amenities include two restaurants, a stylish bar, excellent
fitness and recreation facilities, as well as a business centre.
QB‑1, Schottenring 11, MM Schottentor, tel. +43 1 31
39 00, www.hilton.de/wienplaza. APGU
HOTEL AM PARKRING
The finest views of the city from the highest building
along the historic ‘Ringstrasse’. The 55 elegant rooms and
Hotel am Parkring © Schick Hotels Wien suites with roof-deck of this boutique-hotel as well as the
gourmet restaurant ‘Das Schick’, all situated in the 11th to
DAS OPERNRING 13th floor, guarantee a magnificent panoramic view over
This beautiful hotel located opposite the Staatsoper is the the rooftops of Vienna. QC‑2, Parkring 12, MStubentor,
ideal place for anyone with an eye for comfort and taste. The tel. +43 1 51 48 00, www.schick-hotels.com. 55 rooms
rooms are comfortably furnished, and the service is high (single/doubles/suites €135-537). APGLW
quality. Gourmets and party animals just need to descend KH
to the basement, where there’s the restaurant “…said the
Butcher to the Cow” as well as the Platzhirsch Club.QA‑3, HOTEL AM STEPHANSPLATZ
Opernring 11, MM Karlsplatz, tel. +43 1 587 55 18, www. It’s impossible to get any more central - St. Stephen’s
opernring.at. 47 rooms (singles/doubles €129-149). Cathedral is 56 steps from the main door, and the
city’s pedestrian zone is at your feet. A good place to
ERZHERZOG RAINER meet for business or to start exploring the city.QB‑2,
Central located, in the well known ‘Freihausviertel’ Stephansplatz 9, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 53 40
and in walking distance to the Vienna State Opera, 50, www.hotelamstephansplatz.at. 56 rooms (doubles
individual conveniences of the guests are the employee’s €160-240; suites €260-380). APGTUWK
most concerns. Viennese charm and outstanding
Austrian hospitality await you in 79 rooms and a hotel- HOTEL DE FRANCE
owned restaurant ‘Wiener Wirtschaft’.QA‑4, Wiedner This delightful five-star hotel in the banking district
Hauptstrasse 27-29, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 221 11, spoils its guests with old-world charm: rooms and suites
www.schick-hotels.com. APGTLWKH are decorated in the tradition and style of the late 19th
and early 20th century. If you really feel like splurging,
GRAND HOTEL book an all-inclusive Suite Dream with breakfast buffet,
This hotel is a reminder of the pomp and grandeur that champagne and limousine service. QA‑1, Schottenring 3,
defined the Austrian Empire. If the exterior of the hotel MSchottentor, tel. +43 1 31 36 80, www.austria-hotels.
doesn’t awe you, the marble and the exquisite five-star at/hotel-de-france. APGUH
service inside will. QB‑3, Kärntner Ring 9, MKarlsplatz,
tel. +43 1 51 58 00, www.grandhotelwien.com. 225 IMPERIAL
rooms (doubles €239-320, suites €720-2,150). AP One of the finest hotels in town, this is where foreign state
GTUWKH visitors reside. Precious antiques and historical details are
seamlessly combined with modern comfort in the rooms.
There’s butler service for that hand-ironed newspaper or
LES CLEFS D’OR perfectly prepared bath. It’s also one of the most beautiful
buildings on the Ringstrasse, enhanced at night by its
Concierges that are members of the facade lighting.QC‑2, Kärntner Ring 16, MKarlsplatz,
“Les Clefs d’Or” international concierge tel. +43 1 50 11 00, www.starwoodhotels.com. 138
association (Union Internationale des rooms (doubles €359-477, suites €400-5,000). AP
Concierges d’Hotel) can be recognised by GUBRWKH
the crossed gold keys on their lapels. This means that you
are dealing with a professionally trained concierge who INTERCONTINENTAL
has built up the skills and contacts to open doors for you This large and modern hotel overlooking the Stadtpark
throughout the city and indeed the world. They should manages to combine Viennese charm with international
have a quick reply to any question or request you have. flair. The well-furnished rooms are of excellent standards,
Hotels that have a concierge who is a Clefs D’Or member but it’s the impeccable service, the knowledgeable
are marked with golden keys symbol in this chapter. concierge, the Café Vienna in the lobby, the popular
Intermezzo American cocktail and oyster bar and the Club
facebook.com/InYourPocket September – October 2019 53
Hotels
Lounge with great views over the city centre that keep SACHER
businesspeople and tourists alike and coming back again The famous Sacher Hotel was first opened in 1876 by
and again.QC‑3, Johannesgasse 28, MStadtpark, tel. Eduard Sacher. Since 1934 the Gürtler family has owned it,
+43 1 71 12 20, www.vienna.intercontinental.com. 459 working hard to preserve the tradition and elegance. The
rooms (doubles €179-249, suites €329-479). APG hotel is widely known for providing scenery for The Third
URWKHF Man film and for its Sachertorte chocolate cake. The red-
clad doormen will usher you inside, where you can admire
LE MÉRIDIEN the imperial grandeur, dating back to the times of Prince
The modern majesty of Le Meridien’s restaurant is reason Metternich.QB‑3, Philharmonikerstrasse 4, MKarlsplatz,
enough to rendezvous here. The hotel appeals to all your tel. +43 1 51 45 60, www.sacher.com. 152 rooms (doubles
senses, the modern, colourful décor draws you in like a €465-678, suites €820-2,540). APGRWK
moth to a flame. It is near to just about everything and
offers a range of inviting amenities and state of the art SOFITEL VIENNA STEPHANSDOM
facilities, such as fitness facilities, sauna and Jacuzzi.QA‑3, This ultra-modern hotel by the Danube Canal stands for
Opernring 13, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 58 89 00, www. French hospitality at its best. Its state-of-the-art rooms are
starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien. 334 rooms (singles/ impeccably designed, and the views of the city from Le
doubles €189-409, suites €489-1199). APGXU Loft restaurant on the top floor are breathtaking. Business
BRWKDF facilities include ten light and airy conference rooms, and
there’s a fitness centre and spa.QC‑1, Praterstrasse 1,
MELIA VIENNA MM Schwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 90 61 60, www.sofitel.
Perched high up in the Danube City Tower, Austria’s tallest com. APGUKHF
building, the Melia is a designer hotel with chic rooms,
great service and restaurants and fabulous views. The STANYS HOTEL & APARTMENTS
business district is at the foot of the building, the city centre The new Stanys apartment hotel has some of the largest
a short hop by metro away, and you can while the night rooms and apartments in central Vienna, available for both
away at the unique rooftop bar.QDonau-City-Straße 7, long and short terms stays. Rooms are fresh and modern
MKaisermühlen/VIC, tel. +43 19 01 04, www.melia. and come with free drinks in the fridge and a Cafisimo
com. Doubles from €125. APUWKHi machine. Most apartments have a kitchenette, some also
feature south-facing balconies for chilled-out breaks and
PALAIS COBURG great city views.QMariahilfer Str. 161, MWestbahnhof,
The Palais Coburg offers culture and luxury comfort to its tel. +43 1 893 08 93, www.stanys.at. 36 rooms and
guests in a very elegant ambiance. Furthermore, this is the apartments (€ 72,- € 220,-). LW
place to go for luxury culinary indulgence, and it’s famous
for housing the city’s largest wine cellars. On Saturday STEFANIE
nights, enjoy a presentation of rare wines while listening to The oldest hotel of Vienna vouches for 400 years of personal
live jazz at the wine bar. At this exclusive hotel only suites atmosphere. Today, the hotel—only a few minutes’ walk
are available.QC‑2, Coburgbastei 4, MStubentor, tel. from the 1st district, the historic centre of Vienna —
+43 1 51 81 80, www.coburg.at. 34 rooms (suites €670- presents itself as a successful combination of old and new.
2,700). APGUBRWK 111 stylish rooms with air conditioning and WLAN (free of
charge), three conference rooms, as well as the restaurant
PALAIS HANSEN KEMPINSKI ‘Stefanie’ form the framework for a pleasant stay in Vienna.
Originally built for the 1873 World Exhibition, this grand QC‑1, Taborstrasse 12, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 21
and glamorous hotel sets the standards when it comes 15 00, www.schick-hotels.com. APGTLW
to room comfort, service and food. The styling is a mix KH
of historical elements and modern luxury, with plenty of
marble, fine fabrics and contemporary design. The city
centre is a short walk away from the northern Ringstrasse
location.QSchottenring 24, MSchottenring, tel. +43 1
236 10 00, www.kempinski.com/vienna. Doubles from
€350. APGUJWi
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Index
1019 Jazzclub 37 Do & Co 24 Le Méridien 54 Schönbichler 49
1516 37 Donau 32 Lemmon 34 Secession 44
Albertina 40 Dots 22 Leopold Museum 42 Shanghai Tan 24
Albertina Passage Dinner Club Down Under 37 Lisboa Lounge 31 Shebeen 37
26 Dual 35 Loos Bar 33 Siam 31
Al Fayrooz 28 Eagle Bar 35 Lugeck 20 Sigmund Freud Museum 44
Altmann & Kühne 50 El Gaucho 22 Luster Bar 33 Silberwirt 21
Altstadt Vienna 52 Erzherzog Rainer 53 Madame Tussauds 42 Sing Your Song 34
Alt Wien Kaffeerösterei 50 Fabios 28 Mama Liu & Sons 22 Sofitel Vienna Stephansdom
A&M's Hairlounge 51 Figls 20 Maschu Maschu 30 54
Architekturzentrum Wien 41 Flanagans 37 Mast 33, 45 Sole 28
Arnold’s 48 Flex 35 Matiki Bar 33 Spanische Hofreitschule 40
Augarten Wien 49 Fluc 35 Medusa 26 Spear 27
Aux Gazelles 51 Freiraum 34 Melia Vienna 54 Stanys Hotel & Apartments 54
Bangkok Vienna 31 Frey Wille 50 Mercado 28 Staud's 50
Bank Austria Kunstforum Wien Fuhrgassl Huber 45 Michaela Arl de Lima 48 Steakpoint 22
41 Gemäldegalerie der Akademie Motto am Fluss 26 Stefanie 54
Barfly's Club 32 der bildenden Künste Wien 41 Mozarthaus Vienna 42 Steirereck 25
Beaulieu 25 Gorilla Kitchen 30 Mumok 43 Stephansdom 40
Beethovenhaus Heuriger Grand Hotel 53 Museum auf Abruf 43 stilwerk Wien 50
Mayer am Pfarrplatz 45 Grelle Forelle 36 Museum für Angewandte St. Martins Spa & Lodge 51
Beim Czaak 20 Hammond Bar 33 Kunst 43 Supersense 19
Belvedere 38 Haus des Meeres 44 Museum of Illusions 44 Swarovski Wien 49
Beograd 24 Heart Club 36 MuseumsQuartier Wien 39 Technisches Museum Wien 44
Bettel-Alm 32 Heeresgeschichtliches Naturhistorisches Museum 44 TGI Fridays 22
Bitzinger Würstelstand 30 Museum 41 OMU 34 Thai Therapy 51
Blue Box 32 Heuer 26 ON 22 The Loft 36
blueorange 30 Heuriger Schübel-Auer 45 Österreichische Werkstätten49 The Ritz-Carlton, Vienna 55
Bogside Inn 37 Hilton Vienna Plaza 53 Palais Coburg 54 ThermeLaa 51
Brasserie Stadtboden 26 Hofburg 38 Palais Hansen Kempinski 54 Therme Wien 51
Bristol 52 Hofmobiliendepot 41 Palmenhaus 20 Tian 31
Bristol Lounge 24 Hostel Ruthensteiner 55 Park Hyatt Vienna 54 Travel Shack 34
Burger Bros 22 Hotel Am Parkring 53 Parlor 26 Tre Ristorante 28
Café Central 18 Hotel am Stephansplatz 53 Pars 30 Tuchlauben 50
Cafe Diglas 18 Hotel de France 53 Passage 36 Türkis 30
Café Europa 34 Hundertwasser-Krawinahaus Patara 31 Unkai 28
Café Hawelka 19 39 Phil 19 Vienna Marriott Hotel 55
Café Landtmann 19 Ilona Stueberl 25 Plachutta 21 Vienna Urban Resort Hotel 55
Café Prückel 19 Il Sestante 27 Platzhirsch 36 Villon 33
Café Sacher 19 Imperial 53 Porgy & Bess 37 Volksgarten 36
Café Savoy 35 InterContinental 53 Prater Dome 36 Volksgarten Pavillon 34
Café Sperl 19 Irrgarten Schönbrunn Ra'mien 36 Wein & Co 50
Capricorno 52 (Labyrinth) 40 Ra’mien 24 Weinhof Zimmermann 45
Casino Wien 33 J&L Lobmeyr 50 Reinthalers Beisl 21 Weinschenke 22
Celeste 35 Johnny’s Pub 37 Restaurant Stefanie 21 WerkzeugH 35
Champions 32 Jüdisches Museum Wien 47 Ribs of Vienna 22 Why Not? 35
Charlie P's Irish Pub 37 Julius Meinl am Graben 49 Riesenrad 40 Wiener Deewan 30
City Central 52 Kaiserliche Schatzkammer Rochus 34 Wiener Silber Manufactur 49
Cuadro 19 Wien 41 ROLF shop wien 49 Wiener Wirtschaft 21
Da Capo 27 Karin Kasaj 48 Römertherme 51 Wien-Ticket Pavillon 10
Da Ferdinando 27 Kleinod 33 Sacher 54 Wombat’s 55
Dancing Shiva Superfoods 31 Kuishimbo 28 Sädtler 49 Xocolat 50
Danube Tower Vienna 38 Kunsthalle Wien 42 Salonga 30 Yamm! 31
Das Kolin 26 Kunsthaus Wien 42 Santos 30 ZOOM Kindermuseum 44
Das Loft 26 Kunsthistorisches Museum 42 Sass Club 36 Zum Schwarzen Kameel 25
Das Opernring 53 Kunstraum Niederoesterreich Schesch Besch Bar 34 Zum Weißen Rauchfangkehrer
Das Schick 24 42 Schikaneder 34 22
Das Werk 35 La Mia 28 Schlossquadrat 27
Demel 19 Le Bol 25 Schloss Schönbrunn 40
1 6 M I N UTES
N O N -STO P
Bezahlte Werbung