GT7638
GT7638
GT7638
’C’ Series
‘D/ HD’ Series
& ‘E’ SERIES
Service
Instructions
3/19/2004
GT7638
3/19/2004
GT7638
1. With a grease pencil, ink marker or metal stamp, mark each housing or cover on the parting line in a
way that you will be able to reassemble the parts to the same position when you put the unit back
together.
2. Clamp the unit in a vise, shaft end up. Use clean wooden blocks or other soft material to protect the
machined surfaces (port faces) from damage.
3. Clean the drive shaft extension and remove any burrs. This will prevent damage to the shaft seal lips.
4. Remove the cap screws, or nuts. Lift flange straight up. If flange is stuck, tap with plastic hammer.
5. Remove o-ring.
6. Lift up the drive gear, pulling the pressure plate with it while holding the pressure plate face against
the gear face with your fingers. Remove the pressure plate from drive gear. If the pressure plate hangs
during removal, do not force or bend the plate. Tap lightly with a plastic hammer to drive the plate
back down flat again and start over.
8. Examine the gear bores. Normal gear track-in on the suction side of the body is approximately .005
inches, but should not exceed .015 inches. If track in-burr rolled over O. D. of the bottom pressure
plate, remove burr by using a sharp knife. Blow out with air to remove all loose chips. Lift bottom
pressure plate out. Keep plate flat while removing to prevent binding or bending. Do not force if
plate binds. Remove all sealing strips from grooves in back side of pressure plates.
9. If unit is multiple section, proceed with same steps through other sections.
10. Wash all parts with clean solvent and blow dry. Inspect all parts for wear. (Do not confuse normal
gear bore track-in for wear.) Check for cracks.
11. If pressure plates show excessive wear on gear face side, grooves, scoring, contaminant abrasion wear,
cavitation damage or heat discoloration, replace with new ones.
12. If gears have excessive wear on journals, gear face surfaces or area running under shaft seal lips,
replace with new ones. Journal wear is excessive if contamination has caused the journal surfaces to
loose their mirror finish and appear as a "sanded" or scratched surface. Check the gear O. D. for
excessive wear. Replace if the O. D. is under: 1.991 inches on C series
2.536 inches on D or HD series
3.177 inches on E series.
13. Always install new parts for any showing excessive wear. Always replace seals and o-rings when a
unit has been disassembled.
(Page 3 of 8)
3/19/2004
GT7638
1. Always install new soft goods kit, which includes all seals, o-rings, pressure balance seal strips, etc.
See specific instructions for shaft seal replacement.
2. Place clean body (last section body if multiple unit) on clean work bench with open bore end facing
up. Select the bottom pressure plate to be installed first. This plate will have a radius on the outer
edge that mates with bottom of gear bore. (The top plate has square corners with no radius.) Install
new pressure balance seal strip/s into groove on back of plate, using heavy grease to hold in place.
Uni-directional pumps use two strips per groove. Motors and bi-directional pumps use one strip per
groove, but have two grooves. They also require seal rings around the bearings that slip into the plate
counter bore during assembly. Seal strip must be in place until plate is completely to bottom of bore.
It may be necessary to help the strip slide past bearing ends near bottom of gear bore. (A small
screwdriver with the tip bent 90° makes a good tool for guiding the strip past the bearing.)
3. Install the drive and idler gears, making sure they go back into the same position as removed. If the
positions are switched, the pump will be assembled for opposite rotation. Coat the journals and gear
faces with hydraulic oil before and during assembly.
4. Install the top pressure plate with the grooves facing up. Uni-directional pumps have a trap relief on
the surface facing the gear. The plate should be assembled so that the trap is off-centered toward the
discharge side of the pump (outlet). Install the pressure balance seal strips in plate.
5. Before installing flange (or bearing plate in case of multiple section unit) check to see that all dowels
are accounted for and in proper holes.
6. If new shaft seals have not been installed in flange, do so now following "Seal Replacement"
procedure. Assemble the flange o-ring into groove using heavy grease.
Note: There are two tapped holes in the flange facing the pressure plate. The hole on the
discharge (pressure) side is plugged with a threaded plug on unidirectional pumps. Normally
this plug is not removed during normal service. Only if the direction of rotation is being changed
is this plug removed to switch to opposite hole to keep on discharge side. (Motors and bi-
directional pumps have check valves on both sides, instead of a plug.)
Check the drive shaft for burrs or sharp edges. If necessary, use a seal guide or tape to protect the seal
lips. Grease the seal lips and shaft. Position flange assembly over drive gear and carefully slide drive
gear through shaft seal and aligning with idler gear journal as flange slips into place. If flange stops
approximately 1/8" from body face, the journal bearings in the flange may have caught the pressure
balance seal strips. Do not force. Lift flange up and position seal strips away from the journal using a
small screw driver in the middle and ends until the flange drops into place without force. Do not drive
the flange on with a hammer, or the seal strips may be cut.
7. Install washers and nuts (or bolts) finger tight. While holding the pump in a vice, or other safe
clamping device, torque the nuts/bolts with a torque wrench, using a cross pattern procedure, to
specifications below:
C Series 80-90 lb.-ft.
D/HD Series 80-90 lb.-ft.
E Series 160-170 lb.-ft.
(Page 4 of 8)
3/19/2004
GT7638
8. After torquing the nuts/bolts, turn the drive shaft using a coupling and pipe wrench. The shaft will not
turn freely by hand, but should turn within a torque not to exceed 20-30 lb-ft./section. Turn the shaft at
least two turns. If the shaft cannot be turned by above procedure, disassemble pump and check for top
and bottom pressure plates being assembled in reverse position, pressure balance seal strips pinched, or
gear teeth caught on burr around port hole (if new body was installed). Reassemble and repeat steps 7
& 8.
9. It is recommended that all rebuilt pumps be tested on a test bench before field installation. This is
especially true if new housings are installed and proper break-in procedures required.
!!!CLEANLINESS IS IMPORTANT!!!
1. Lay flange on a clean surface with pilot face down. With a 1/4" punch, or screw driver with tip bent,
insert through drive bearing and inner seal, until against edge of outer seal case. Tap at 3 locations
around seal case driving seal out of bore. Be careful not to score bore.
2. Turn flange over with pilot face up, and remove snap ring.
3. Turn flange back over with pilot face down and remove inner seal with same procedure in step 1.
5. Coat seal O. D. and flange bore with light coat of sealant (Aviation Form-A-Gasket MIL-S-45180C
Type III) PERMATEX No. 3, or equivalent.
6. Press inner seal just past snap ring groove with a hydraulic, or arbor, press. The seal lip containing the
garter spring must face towards inside of pump. Use a seal pusher, or socket with O. D. slightly
smaller than seal O. D. to keep seal perpendicular to seal bore while pressing.
8. Re-coat bore and outer seal with thin layer of sealant and press in to snap ring. Again, the seal lip with
garter spring should be turned towards inside of pump.
9. Install new "weep-hole" plug in 3/16" drilled hole at outer surface of flange.
(Page 5 of 8)
GT7638
3/19/2004
Troubleshooting Guide For GearTek Hydraulic Pumps
IDENTIFICATION CAUSE CORRECTIVE CHECKS
• Sandblasted band around Abrasive wear caused by • Was clean oil used?
pressure plate bores dirt or other fine • Was filter element change
• Angle groove on face of contaminants not visible to period correct?
pressure plate the eye • Were correct filter elements
• Lube groove enlarged and used?
edges rounded • Cylinder rod wipers in good
• Dull area on shaft at root of condition?
tooth • Cylinder rods dented or scored?
• Dull finish on shaft in • Was system flushed properly
bearing area after previous failure?
• Sandblasted gear bore in
housing
• Scored pressure plates Abrasive wear caused by • Was system flushed properly
• Scored shafts metal particles or other after previous failure?
• Scored gear bore coarse contaminants visible • Contaminants generated
to the eye elsewhere in hydraulic system?
• Contaminants generated by
wearing pump components?
• Any external damage to Incorrect Installation • Did shaft bottom out in mating
pump part?
• Damage on rear end of • Any interference between pump
drive gear and rear and machine?
pressure plate only
• Eroded pump housing Aerated oil or restricted oil • Tank oil level correct?
• Eroded pressure plates flow to pump inlet causing • Oil viscosity as recommended?
Cavitation • Restriction in pump inlet line?
• Air leak in pump inlet line?
• Loose hose or tube connection
near or above oil level in tank?
• Excessive operation of relief
valve?
• Housing scored heavily Damage caused by metal • Metal object left in system
• Inlet peened and battered object during initial assembly or
• Foreign object caught in previous repair?
gear teeth • Metal object generated by
another failure in system?
CLOCKWISE COUNTER-CLOCKWISE
"R" Rotation "L" Rotation
VIEWED FROM DRIVE SHAFT END VIEWED FROM DRIVE SHAFT END
CLOCKWISE COUNTER-CLOCKWISE
"R" Rotation "L" Rotation
VIEWED FROM DRIVE SHAFT END VIEWED FROM DRIVE SHAFT END