Module 8 - Rope Rescue
Module 8 - Rope Rescue
Module 8 - Rope Rescue
Introduction
Rope rescue is a highly specialized field of technical rescue. It can involve very
complex rigging systems and extreme heights. Or, a rope rescue can be extremely
simple, such as a simple overland carry of a stokes basket to a waiting ambulance. The
term rope rescue is a broad term that can be applied to many different rescue
scenarios. Rope rescue can be defined as “rescue based in whole or part on ropes
and/or other related system components”. This means that a rescue does not
necessarily have to involve ropes to be termed a rope rescue. There are many tools
involved within the discipline of rope rescue that can be used independently to carry out
a rescue. Hence the term rope rescue.
This manual is designed to introduce the rescue squad driver to the basic
philosophies and techniques of rope rescue. It is by no means a comprehensive rope
rescue manual, and should not be regarded as one. It is geared toward someone with a
basic knowledge of ropes and rigging equipment. A good pre-requisite for use of this
manual would be a Firefighter I class, or basic rescue class such as Practical Rescue.
This manual is not a substitute for hands-on practical training. Rather, it is designed to
accompany and support a hands-on, practical training program. All practical training
evolutions should be supervised by a qualified rope rescue instructor.
The philosophies and techniques presented in this manual are practiced by rope
rescue experts throughout the United States and Canada. They represent safe, field
proven, techniques that have been tested both in the field and in a rope rescue testing
facility. Like other fire service techniques, things change throughout the years. New
research is an ongoing process, and rope rescue personnel across the nation are
constantly seeking out new and better equipment and techniques. You should
constantly strive to update your training and knowledge base to assure that you are
using the safest and most efficient techniques available.
Transportation Type
Highline System—
Advanced Rigging
There is a vast array of equipment available for use during technical rescue
incidents. Most of the basic equipment is very versatile, and can be used for many
different purposes. Some equipment, however, is task specific and only suitable for a
certain operation. It is important to note that most technical rescues can be carried out
using simple, basic equipment. Through regular practice, you can learn to improvise
with your equipment and maximize its usefulness. Use caution when purchasing
equipment, as many vendors will try to sell you specialized gadgetry that is expensive,
only good for one purpose, and probably something you don’t need.
Rescue Rope
Rescue rope is a very important tool and is without a doubt very versatile.
Through the use of various knots, auxiliary equipment, and an open mind, much can be
accomplished with a rescue rope. Rope can be used to construct raising and lowering
systems, highline systems, mechanical advantage, travel restrict systems, and much,
much more. It is important to have a thorough understanding of what you can and can’t
do with a rope, because every piece of equipment has its limitations. This should begin
with an understanding of the construction of modern rescue rope.
Most rescue ropes in use today are constructed of synthetic fibers such as nylon,
polyester, and kevlar. A large majority of rescue professionals are using nylon because
of its superior strength, tolerance of impact or shock loads, and resistance to abrasion
and heat. It also performs well when wet, with a minimal loss of strength (approximately
10%) which is only present while the rope is wet. Nylon rescue ropes are usually of
kernmantle construction—kern meaning core, and mantle meaning sheath. The sheath
protects the core from abrasion, UV rays, dirt, and anything the rope comes in contact
with. The sheath is generally braided, and covers one of two types of nylon cores. Low
stretch rope, the most common type used in rescue, has core strands that run parallel to
each other. High stretch rope, most commonly used by climbers, has multiple twisted
core strands. Both types contain a majority of their strength in the core, usually about
75%-90%.
NFPA 1983, the Standard for Fire Service Life Safety Rope and System
Components, has established recommended standards for rescue rope, as well as
other technical rescue equipment. According to that standard, a one-person load is
considered 300 lbs., and a two-person load is considered 600 lbs. They recommend a
15:1 safety factor be used in all systems, which means that you should multiply the
weight of a given load by 15 to determine the strength of the rope to be used.
Therefore, a rope used for one-person loads should have a breaking strength of at least
4500 lbs. (3/8” rope), and conversely, 9000 lbs. (1/2” rope) for two persons. This
assumes that only one rope is being used to conduct a rescue or training evolution. As
will be discussed in the Belay Systems section, many rescue authorities recommend the
use of a two-rope system. Each rope in the system is engineered for a 10:1 safety
factor, therefore yielding a total safety factor of 20:1.
Carabiners/Screw Links
Carabiners and screw links also constitute a critical component of any rescue
system. They are the metal connectors that link the several parts of a rope rescue
system together. Although they are quite similar, carabiners and screw links have two
major differences. First, carabiners have a self-closing, or spring-loaded gate that
allows them to close automatically. Screw links have a screw gate that must be closed
manually. Second, carabiners are designed to be loaded on the spine side only. The
spine is the long axis of the carabiner, or the side opposite the gate opening. Loading
carabiners on any side other than the spine can cause failure of the carabiner at
significantly less than the rated strength. The following pictures illustrate the different
types of carabiner loading. Again, note that the only acceptable method is spine
loading.
Most carabiners are made of either steel or aluminum. Steel carabiners are
usually much stronger than aluminum. For this reason, steel carabiners should be used
for “system” applications, such as belay systems, hauling systems, lowering systems, or
anywhere two-person loads will be encountered. Aluminum carabiners should be
reserved for “personal” applications, such as anywhere a single person is attaching to a
rope (rappelling, ascending, etc.). NFPA 1983 categorizes carabiners as either “general
use” (9000 lbs.), or “personal use” (6000 lbs). These two categories can be linked to
steel, and aluminum, respectively, since few aluminum carabiners have a breaking
strength greater than 6000 lbs.
Webbing
Webbing is a very versatile tool used for rope rescue. It is a flat material made of
nylon. The most common size used in rope rescue is 1” wide, although it is
manufactured in a 2” width also. It is constructed either of tubular, (hollow) weave, or
flat (solid) weave. 1” tubular webbing has a breaking strength of about 4000 lbs., and 1”
flat about 6000 lbs. The 1” tubular type is the most common type used for rope rescue
applications.
When tying webbing into different configurations, the overhand family of knots
should be used. This provides for the creation of a flat knot, which has greater holding
power in webbing, and will provide a knot that can be untied after loading. Do not use a
square knot or any of the figure 8 family of knots when tying webbing. When used in
webbing, square knots will not hold, and figure 8 knots will become so tight that they will
be impossible to untie. The most common knots used in webbing are the overhand knot
(for creating fixed loops), and the overhand bend (for tying the ends together).
Simple Overhand
Overhand on a Bight
Overhand Bend
Step 2
Pulleys
Pulleys are a multi-functional tool used in rope rescue. Their primary function is
to change the direction of a rope with a minimum of friction, but they can also be used to
create mechanical advantage and as a traveling device in highlines. Selection of
pulleys is very important, as they are not all created equal.
Pulleys are constructed in one of two basic styles: the plastic or bronze bushing,
and the sealed ball bearing. Ball bearing pulleys run much more freely than do bushing
pulleys, and are therefore more efficient. Pulley efficiency is very important when it
comes to the construction of mechanical advantage systems. Some pulleys can reduce
efficiency as much as 30-40%. Equally as important is the size of the sheave, or wheel.
The greater the size, the greater the efficiency. In addition, a pulley sheave must be at
least four times the diameter of the rope used in order to maintain 100% of the rope's
strength. Most rescue pulleys come in sizes from 2-5". Use caution when purchasing
pulleys, as some manufacturers sell pulleys based on the size of the side plate and not
the actual sheave.
Pulleys can be purchased in single, double, and triple sheave designs. This
allows a single pulley to accommodate multiple ropes. This can be useful when
constructing simple (block and tackle type) mechanical advantage systems, highlines,
and other complex rigging systems. Care should be taken not to stack multiple single
sheave pulleys into a single carabiner, as this can load the gate side of the carabiner,
reducing its strength considerably. In addition, it can cause the pulleys to be situated at
an angle to each other, or bind, causing increased friction and reduced efficiency.
Another important fact to consider about pulleys is their ability to multiply the load
placed on their anchor. Anytime a change of direction is placed in a rope, and the angle
between the ropes exceeds 120 degrees, the load on the pulley and its anchor will be
greater than the load on the rope itself. If the angle between the ropes is 0 degrees, the
load on the pulley is twice the load on the rope.
Camming Pulley
There are two main types of descent control devices used in rescue: the figure 8
and the rappel rack. Each has distinct advantages and disadvantages that must be
considered. In general, however, the rappel rack is considered the device of choice by
most rescue teams. Both devices may be attached to a harness and used to descend,
or rappel, and can also be attached to an anchor and used to lower other rescuers.
The rappel rack is a much more user-friendly device with significant advantages
over the figure 8, especially when dealing with rescue sized loads. The biggest
advantage of the rappel rack is the ability to vary the friction while the device is loaded.
This is very important when "picking off" a victim while on descent. In addition, the rack
has better heat dissipation, doesn't twist the rope, and is easy to lock and unlock.
Unlike the figure 8, the rack remains attached to the harness while it is rigged, reducing
the occurrence of failing to reattach it.
Deaf Figure “8” Rescue Figure “8” w/Ears Figure “8” Rigged
A rope grab device is one that is used to grip or grab the rope for pulling,
ascending, attaching other equipment, etc. Prusiks and mechanical ascenders are the
two most popular rope grab devices. You should note, however, that there are some
“grave” differences between the two.
Prusik cords are fixed loops of accessory cord, tied together with a double
overhand bend. Accessory cord is simply a small diameter of kernmantle life safety
rope (3-9mm). Prusiks are very useful devices for gripping the rope, such as for
ascending, mechanical advantage systems, and belay systems. Material used for the
construction of prusiks should be about 2/3rds the diameter of the host rope they are
placed on (8mm for 1/2" rescue rope). Soft, supple accessory cord is preferred over
stiff cord, as it provides better holding power.
Bridge
Ascenders are mechanical devices designed for single person ascents of fixed
ropes. They work very well for this purpose, especially the handled ascenders. They
are not designed for rescue loads, and therefore should not be used in rescue systems.
In addition, they can and will severely damage or cut a rope if overloaded. This can
occur during slow, static loading, and/or shock or impact loading. It is worth
emphasizing that ascenders are used for ascending, and THAT'S ALL.
Handled Ascender
Miscellaneous
Miscellaneous equipment is equipment that does not necessarily fit into one of
the other categories of rope rescue equipment. There numerous pieces of equipment
that fit into this category, of which some are very useful and some are not. The scope
of this manual does not cover every piece of such equipment, as some of which is only
used for advance level rigging. The rigging plate, however, is a very useful basic piece
of equipment.
A rigging plate is a flat metal plate, with multiple holes drilled into it, for attaching
multiple carabiners to. Its use's are infinite, but some of its main functions are to
separate pulleys in a mechanical advantage system, and to construct "back tied" or
"focused" anchor systems.
Rigging Plate
Knotcraft is the combination of knots, bends, and hitches used in rope rescue.
However, sometimes the term “knot” is used generically in place of bend or hitch. It is
important that all members of a rescue team or crew be familiar with and use the correct
terminology of knotcraft. This can prevent a costly mistake, and provide for more
efficient and expedient operations. It is also important to note that all knotcraft will
reduce the strength of a rescue rope and/or webbing by approximately 10-40%. In
order to allow for a minimum static system safety factor (SSSF) of at least 10:1, it
should be assumed that all knots, bends, and hitches will reduce the strength of a rope
by a conservative 50%.
All knots, bends, and hitches should be dressed, set, and inspected. Dressing a
knot means to “clean it up” so that there are no twists, the rope flows smoothly through
the many turns and bights, and the tension will be on the correct strand. Setting a knot
is the process of placing tension on the strands before the knot is put into use. This
assures that all slack is removed, and makes the knot easier to inspect. All knots
should be inspected prior to a load being placed on them. Inspecting a knot correctly
requires someone to physically touch the knot and inspect each segment.
There are many knots, bends, and hitches outlined in this chapter. They are
listed to give you several examples for each category of knotcraft. As a rescue squad
driver, you will not be required to be able to tie all of them. A list is provided in the
objectives at the beginning of the chapter which outlines the knots, bends, and hitches
you will be required to proficient in. Keep in mind, however, that the more you know
about knotcraft, and the more knots, bends, and hitches you can tie, the better you will
be in the rope rescue environment.
Knots
A knot is used to form a loop or point of attachment in the middle or end of a rope
or piece of webbing (some exceptions do exist to this definition, such as the simple
overhand and simple figure 8, which are also called stopper knots, and can be used as
the “root” knot to construct other knots, bends, and hitches.) Some examples of knots
are as follows:
Inline Figure 8
The bowline family of knots is quite large, and they make an excellent choice for
tying fixed loops. Some may argue that the bowline should not be used for life safety
applications because it is not as strong as the figure 8 and it requires the use of a
safety. However, the strength difference is only about 5%, and there are several safe
and acceptable methods of tying a safety on the bowline. In addition, if the 50% rule of
strength reductions is used for all knots, then both knots are considered to be the same
strength. Many rescue professionals are using the bowline in place of the Figure “8”
because of its superior qualities.
Bowline on a Bight
Bends
A bend is used to join the ends of two ropes or pieces of webbing. Some
examples of bends are as follows:
(fisherman’s)
Double Overhand
Hitches
Anchors/Anchor Systems
The anchor is the backbone of most rescue systems. Without a good anchor, we
cannot operate safely, and therefore can't conduct a rescue or training evolution. There
are many types of anchors and anchor systems, which can all be broken down into two
broad categories—single-point and multi-point. No matter which type of anchor is used,
the ultimate goal is to create a "bombproof" anchor. The term bombproof simply means
that the anchor will withstand any force that could possibly be placed upon it, either
intentionally or unintentionally. Anchors that are not considered bombproof are called
marginal. Marginal anchors are usually considered capable of holding part of a load,
but not all. For this reason, marginal anchors must be tied together into an “anchor
system”, generally a multi-point anchor system.
Single-Point Anchors
Single-point anchors are preferred and should be used when there is one anchor
present that is considered bombproof. It may be bombproof to hold one part of the
system, such as the main line, or it may be adequate to hold the total rescue package.
Some examples of bombproof single point anchors would be large trees, concrete and
structural steel columns, very large boulders, and fire apparatus. Once the appropriate
anchor is selected, it must be rigged with the necessary equipment so it can be utilized
in the system.
For anchoring fixed lines, it is usually easiest just to tie the rope to the anchor
with a Yosemite bowline. For anchoring other objects, such as pulleys and fixed
braking systems, an anchor constructed of webbing works best. One of the best and
strongest webbing anchors is called the “wrap 3, pull 2”. It is constructed in the
following sequence:
3.) Place the strand of webbing with the bend in it against the load so that it faces the
direction of pull.
4.) Nest the remaining two strands together to form the point of attachment and attach a
carabiner.
5.) Make sure that there are no twists in the webbing, and that all sharp edges are
padded. In addition, make sure that the angle of the webbing strands at the
carabiner does not exceed 90°.
By placing the bend against the anchor, and facing it in the direction of pull, the bend
will be isolated so that it will not see much, if any, tension. Therefore, the strength of
the webbing will not be reduced by the overhand bend. This means that the anchor has
the full strength of all the webbing.
Multi-point anchors are used when there is concern that a single anchor will not
hold the intended load. A multi-point anchor is basically several, marginal single-point
anchors tied together to make one bombproof anchor. Some examples would be small
trees, small rocks and boulders, wedge-type eyebolts set in concrete, picket systems,
etc. Multi-point anchors should only be used when there is not a single suitable
bombproof anchor. Like single-point anchors, multi-point anchors can be constructed of
webbing, and they can also be constructed of rope or accessory cord. The steps to
construct a multi-point anchor are as follows:
1.) Run the webbing or cord around each anchor. If the individual anchors are large,
or spread out over a large area, it is a good idea to tie a wrap-3, pull-2 around each
one before starting the multi-point.
2.) Tie the ends of the webbing or cord together with the appropriate bend.
3.) Reach between each two anchors and pull the strands forward, focusing them
toward the anticipated direction of pull.
4.) Nest the strands together and tie the end of the webbing or cord into an overhand
knot.
The main and belay lines should be integrated by the use a doubled longtail
bowline. Then, the tails will continue on to another purpose. In most instances, one tail
becomes the back-up for the rescuer, and the second tail becomes the back-up for the
patient. The principal difference in the three methods is the length of the tails, and the
method that is used to attach the basket to the rope. (This section will only cover how
to connect the ropes to the basket. Belay systems are covered in the next section.)
The horizontal raise or lower is probably the most commonly used method for
high angle terrain (vertical or near vertical environments). The basket is oriented
parallel to the ground, or the horizon. This method facilitates several advantages over
the vertical method. First, it places the patient in a horizontal, or supine position. This
is much more comfortable for the patient, because it relies more on gravity than the
lashing system to hold the patient in the basket. For this same reason, it is also safer
for the patient. Second, it allows for greater control of the basket. An attendant can be
attached to the basket to maneuver it around obstacles and to provide patient care.
The Yosemite Rig stokes basket bridle is the tool of choice to attach the basket
to the system for a horizontal raise or lower. It is a 4-leg, adjustable bridle made of rope
and accessory cord. Each leg is individually adjustable, rigged for quick release if the
patient’s condition requires it, and has some built-in mechanical advantage to assist in
shortening the leg while under load. The Yosemite Rig should be attached to the
basket with four carabiners. The gates of the carabiners should be oriented down, and
toward the inside of the basket. Since the legs of the Yosemite Rig will form a “Y” when
attached, a tri-link should be used instead of a carabiner to attach the rig to the rope
system. The attendant is attached to the tri-link with a Purcell Prusik, regular prusik, or
daisy chain. An etrier can also be attached to allow the attendant to climb up if he
becomes too low on the basket.
Vertical Raise/Lower
A vertically oriented basket is required when the basket must be passed through
a narrow opening or area, such as a confined space. This operation is not conducted
often with a stokes basket, because there are other patient packaging devices better
suited to this operation (Sked, LSP Half-back). The Yosemite Rig is not needed for this
operation. A piece of 1” tubular webbing is used to create a bridle for the basket (see
illustrations). All other aspects of the raising or lowering system are the same. The tails
of the yoke knot for this operation may be of different lengths. The patient’s tail can be
approximately eight feet long, and the attendants will need to be longer, approximately
10-12’ long.
A diagonal, or sloped basket is most often used for flat and low angle terrain (a
slope or embankment type of evolution), and sometimes for steep angle. This is the
type of evolution that will be used most often here in Montgomery County and the
surrounding areas. A slope evacuation requires a few changes from the basic
horizontal or vertical raise or lower. For those types of evolutions, the basket is free
hanging from the rope system. In a slope evacuation, the basket will need to be carried
by litter attendants, or dragged on the ground. In snow or icy conditions, allowing the
basket to slide on the ground may be acceptable. However, in rugged terrain such as
grassy or rocky hillsides, the basket will need to be carried.
Anytime you are conducting any of the above evolutions, you should observe the
general safety principals of rope rescue. These include, but are not limited to:
—Never get closer than 10’ to an exposed edge without a travel restrict or
positioning line
—Always have two points of contact to the ground or a rope system
—Always use the “three sets of eyes” rule (for system safety checks)
—Always pad or protect webbing and rope from sharp edges
From this information, it should become evident that the belay system is the last
line of defense in a rope rescue system. If all else fails, the belay system must be
capable of withstanding any force that may come upon it. Because the belay system is
so important, several characteristics must be built into it to account for all the variables
we may encounter. Below is a list of belay system characteristics, along with an
explanation of why each is necessary.
No one knows when a failure will occur. It may occur while the load is at rest, or
while the load is in motion (being raised or lowered). Some belay systems hold static
loads well, but can’t stop a load that is in motion. A good belay system must be able to
catch and hold the load whether it is at rest or in motion.
When a belay system activates and successfully catches a falling load, the
operation is not finished. There is still a patient and/or rescuer hanging somewhere
from the belay line. The
evolution must still be completed. In most cases, all or part of the main line system
must be replaced. Once the main line system has been repaired, the load must be
transferred from the belay line back to the main line and the operation may continue. If
the belay system components were distorted or destroyed as a result of catching the
load, this transfer would not be possible. Therefore, we say that the system must
survive to allow further rescue or continued operations.
Shock load occurs when a load in motion comes to an abrupt stop. The heavier
the load, and the greater the distance an object falls, the greater the shock load. This
shock load is transferred to all the components of the system, including rope, hardware,
anchor, patient and/or rescuers, etc. The shock load can be much greater than the
weight of the static load, as much as 10 times greater or more. The greatest force that
is delivered to the system during the fall arrest is also called the Maximum Arrest Force
(MAF). In order to minimize the MAF, a system that provides some energy absorption
(shock absorption) must be used. In other words, a system that brings the load to a
gradual stop as opposed to an abrupt stop.
As noted above, the greater the distance an object falls, the greater the shock
load. Therefore, we must minimize the distance an object falls before it comes to a
complete stop. In addition, we must stop the load before it strikes another object, such
as a rock, part of a building, etc. This helps reduce the MAF, and therefore helps
reduce the potential for serious injury.
The belay system must work no matter what the external environment or
weather. That means that if the rope gets wet, icy, muddy, dusty, etc., the belay system
must still do its job. The same applies to warm and cold temperatures, high and low
humidity, etc. The belay must be capable of stopping the load in any conditions.
The belay system must activate automatically, and require no action from the
belayer for it to work. In other words, if the belayer were to let go of the system
completely, the belay must still work. This concept is also called the whistle test, or
hold-up test. In this test, if someone blows a whistle, everyone involved with the
evolution lets go of his or her rope or equipment. If, when everyone lets go, the system
fails to keep the load from falling, the belay fails the whistle test. If, however, the
system holds the load, it passes the whistle test. There are several reasons this
characteristic is important. First, it is not uncommon for rescuers to fail to pay close
attention to their assigned task. Some belay techniques require the belayer to perform
a certain action to activate the belay system. If the belayer is not paying attention at the
time this action is needed, it is likely that the belay will not work. Second, it is entirely
possible that something could happen to the belayer that would prevent him from doing
his job properly. Examples would be someone distracting him, a medical condition such
as a heart attack, being stung by a bee, or anything else that would prevent constant
attention to detail and an immediate activation of the belay. If a belay system does not
meet this requirement, it should not be used.
The critical point test is equally as important as the whistle test. The critical point
test is designed to eliminate the weak link in a system. It follows the premise that
everyone in a rope system must have two points of contact. The critical point test must
be applied to each and every component of your system. While examining each
component, ask yourself, “What happens if this particular piece of equipment fails?” If
the answer to your question is that a catastrophic failure occurs, then your system
doesn’t pass this test. But, if every component has some type of back-up, and the
failure of any one component won’t cause the patient or rescuer to fall, then the system
passes the test. The only exception to this rule is the harness that the patient or
rescuer is wearing. It is not feasible or safe to wear two harnesses at the same time.
This is where the “three sets of eyes” rule can be used to eliminate the possibility of
failure due to human error.
Conclusion
Several tests were conducted during the years of 1982 through 1989 for the
purposes of evaluating belay devices and techniques. Criteria for the tests was
established by the British Columbia Council on Technical Rescue (BCCTR). These
criteria were accepted by all those involved with the testing. The criteria are as follows:
All the tests yielded the same results: that only one belay system would meet the
criteria. All the other devices or systems failed at least one of the test criteria. The only
belay system that passed the testing was the Tandem Prusik Belay with Load Releasing
Hitch (TPB w/ LRH). This is the only belay system that should be used in rope rescue
systems. In addition, this belay system has been the only one to date that has ever
passed the test with one exception. At the time of this writing, a new belay device has
just been introduced to the rope rescue community that has passed all the tests and is
suitable for use in rope rescue systems. It is called the 540 Rescue Belay, and was
developed by Rigging for Rescue, a technical rope rescue school in British Columbia,
Canada. (Since this device is so new, there is no information available on it at this time.
It is suggested that users of this manual look into this device.)
The load releasing hitch is used for two purposes. First, to absorb dynamic
energy or shock load, in the belay system. It reduces the force seen by all components
in the system. Second, should the belay system activate, it is used to release the load
on the prusiks and transfer the load back to the main line. The belay system will usually
activate for one of two reasons. First, if a failure occurs in the main line and the belay
system catches the load. Second, in a lowering operation, if the belayer can’t keep up
with the lowering speed of the main line, the prusiks may engage accidentally. In either
case, the belayer must have a means to unlock the prusiks and resume the operations.
The LRH is placed between the anchor and the belay prusiks. It is advisable to use a
10mm tri-link on the munter hitch side of the LRH because of the width of the munter
hitch. (See picture on page 44 for how to construct LRH.)
The tandem prusik belay is constructed by placing each of the two prusiks on the
rope with three wraps. Make sure each prusik is wrapped in the same direction around
the rope. When affixed to the rope, they should be about 4” apart. They should be
snug on the rope; a good test of this is to pull rope through the prusiks and listen for the
friction between the rope and the prusiks. If you can hear the friction, then the prusiks
are tight enough. Connect the prusiks to the carabiner on the LRH. Place the long
prusik in first, then the short prusik, and the prusik minding pulley last. As with all rope
rescue systems, have someone perform a safety check to make sure that everything is
correct.
For raising system operations, simply pull the belay rope through the prusik
minding pulley as the load is raised. Keep all slack out of the system. Make sure to pull
the rope through the pulley at a very narrow angle, 0° if possible (see the diagram on
page 44 for proper angle). For lowering systems, you must physically pull the rope
through the prusiks as the load is lowered. To do this, slide both prusiks together and
grasp them with the hand closest to the anchor. Use the hand closest to the load to pull
the rope through the prusiks as the load is lowered. Again, you must keep all slack out
of the rope. You can use a “Z” turn to manage slack. It is made by placing the hand
that is pulling the rope on top of the rope and turning it 180°, creating a “Z” in the rope.
As the “Z” is pulled out of your hand by the load being lowered, reach back and pull
another one. Continue this procedure throughout the entire operation.
If a failure occurs during an operation, all you need to do is release your hands
from the prusiks and the rope. You can also “throw” the prusiks toward the load.
Whatever you do, don’t hold onto the prusiks. You could cause them not to grab, and
prevent the belay from activating and catching the fall. You could also injure your
hands. You must be wearing gloves when operating the belay, or dealing with any
moving rope.
Belay Line
Hand holding
prusiks in place
Although this belay is the only one that passed the tests, it is not foolproof. You
must obtain competent instruction to construct and use it. You should obtain this
instruction before attempting to use it for live loads. In addition, it requires frequent
practice to be proficient in its operation.
Directionals
It is very important that the belay line not be placed in any directional changes
within the system. There are two reasons for this. First, as mentioned earlier, placing a
change of direction in a system can result in a load being placed on the directional
pulley and anchor that is greater (as much as twice) than the load on the end of the
rope or belay system. Since loads on the belay system can be severe (sometimes
3,000-5,000 lbs.), the load on the directional may be enough to cause failure of a
system component. Second, if the belay line is incorporated into a directional change,
and the directional anchor fails, there will be significant slack in the belay rope. This will
cause an increase in the fall distance, and therefore a greater shock load to the system.
In addition, the rescue package may strike an object before the belay rope becomes
taught. Therefore, it should be common practice to run the belay line directly from the
belay system to the rescue package. (This author generally recommends the practice
of “never say never”, as there may be situations where there is no other choice but to
include the belay in a change of direction. A good example of this is when using an
aerial device as a high directional to conduct a stokes basket evolution.)
Self Belay
A self-belay is a belay that a rescuer can use for rappels or descents. It does not
require a second person to operate the belay. For this reason, it is a good technique to
use when you are alone. It is a questionable technique by some organizations.
However, if it is done correctly, it does work. This belay technique requires
considerable discipline and practice with its use. The same principles apply to this
belay as do to the tandem prusik belay. A separate anchor and rope must be used.
The belay line is anchored to a tandem prusik belay system. This gives the system the
ability to absorb shock. The person utilizing the belay then attaches a single 8mm
prusik to the belay rope and his harness. The prusik can be triple wrapped, but double
works best. As the person rappels, he tends the prusik using two fingers on top of the
wraps (like holding a cigar). DO NOT grab the prusik with a full fist or hand. Activation
of this belay requires the
person using it to let go of the
prusik if the main line fails. By
using the two-finger method,
you will not be able to grab the
prusik; your fingers will slide
off quickly if the main line fails.
If, however, you grasp the
prusik with a full fisted grip, it
will slide along the rope and it
will not grab. It will not stop a
fall in this fashion. AGAIN, you
must be disciplined enough to
let go and not grab the prusik.
(Note: When using this belay Self-Belay technique—note fingers
alone, you must be able to on prusik are too tight—they should
rescue yourself if your prusik cradle the rope like a cigar
grabs.)
1. To determine the effort needed to move a load, divide the weight of the load
by the mechanical advantage.
2. To determine the amount of rope that must be pulled, multiply the distance a
load must be moved by the mechanical advantage.
Example: A load weighing 300 lbs. must be moved a distance of 100 feet. The
mechanical advantage system is a 3:1. In order to accomplish this, we must apply
100 lbs. of effort over a distance of 300 feet of rope.
100 feet (distance to move load) X 3 (mechanical advantage) = 300 feet of rope
50 50
Direction Load
100 Moves 100
There are numerous parts to each pulley system, and terms that apply to each.
These terms help define the pulley system, both in schematics and in practical
application. In order to understand the mechanics of a given pulley system, and how it
is constructed, you must understand the parts and their function.
Haul Prusik—a prusik used to combine elements of pulley systems, such as attaching
a pulley to the middle of a rope (attaching one simple pulley system to
another).
Gang Prusik—a prusik used to attach a pulley system to a separate host rope
(sometimes incorrectly referred to as “piggybacked”)
Self-minding Ratchet—a ratchet prusik that is capable of performing its job without the
assistance of someone to attend it; this is accomplished via
the use of a prusik minding pulley in an odd pulley system.
Manned Ratchet—a ratchet prusik that must be attended at all times by an attendant;
required for most even pulley systems and all ganged systems.
Reset—the act of “resetting” a pulley system that has reached chock-a-block; usually
involves moving the haul prusik(s) toward the load as far as possible.
Chock-a-block—a condition that results from a pulley system being pulled to its limit;
generally occurs when a stationary pulley comes in contact with a
traveling pulley, but can occur when opposing traveling pulleys meet;
the end result is that no more rope may be pulled through the system.
Change of Direction (CD)—an extra pulley attached to an anchor, and placed at one
or more points in a pulley system for the purpose of
changing the direction of rope travel; this pulley does not
contribute to the mechanical advantage of a pulley
system.
Pulley systems can be set up in one of two configurations: integral and ganged.
Integral Pulley System—Where the working rope and the pulley system are one
and the same; most often used when the working rope is
long enough to extend from the patient to the anchor, with
enough left over to construct the pulley system.
Ganged Pulley System—A pulley system that is attached to a rope for doing work;
useful when the working rope is not long enough to extend
from the patient to the anchor; also useful when multiple
changeovers are required (raise to lower, lower to raise,
etc.)
As you might have guessed, a simple pulley system is the most basic and the
easiest to construct. It can be constructed with a minimum of equipment and personnel.
You must have a good understanding of simple pulley systems before attempting to
understand and construct compound systems.
Simple Pulley System—where the rope is tied to either the load or the anchor and
is run alternatingly through pulleys on the load or the anchor and the loose end finds
itself in the grasp of the pullers.
Both of the pulley systems in the picture on page 49 are simple pulley systems.
Even though the system on the left is only a change or direction (1:1), and does not
create mechanical advantage, it is still a pulley system. Another good example of a
simple pulley system is a block-and-tackle system. There are a number of rules that
apply to simple pulley systems. Memorizing these rules will allow you to understand
and construct simple pulley systems much easier.
1) If the pulley closest to the pullers is on the anchor, the pulley is only a change of
direction (CD).
2) If the rope used in the pulley system is tied to the anchor, the mechanical
advantage will be even (ie. 2:1, 4:1, 6:1, etc.)
3) If the rope used in the pulley system is tied to the load, the mechanical advantage
will be odd (ie. 1:1, 3:1, etc.)
5) If the mechanical advantage is even, the pulley system must be ganged onto the
main line for a raising or lifting operation.
6) If the pulley system is ganged (as in rule #5), a manned ratchet will be needed for
resets.
7) If the mechanical advantage is odd, then the pulley system can be integrated as
part of the main line (integral) and can utilize a self-minding ratchet.
Once you understand and can build simple pulley systems easily, it is time to
move on to compound pulley systems. Without this thorough understanding of simple
systems, it will be difficult to understand the concepts of compound systems.
Compound systems build and expand upon the basic concepts of simple systems. Like
simple systems, compound systems have their own set of rules.
Compound Pulley System—a simple system pulling on the end of another simple
system.
(Note: there can be more than two in a sequence.)
Piggybacked—a simple system pulling on the end of an identical simple system (ie.
2:1 x 2:1, 3:1 x 3:1, etc.)
Compound systems are the most efficient type of pulley systems. That is
because there are fewer pulleys required to construct a given compound system than a
similar simple system. For example, it takes three pulleys to construct a 4:1 simple
system, where it only takes only two to construct a 4:1 compound system. The bigger
the pulley system, the more exaggerated this is. For example, an 8:1 simple system
requires seven pulleys, and a compound 8:1 system requires only three. So how does
this help us? First, fewer pulleys mean less money in equipment, less equipment to
carry to the rescue site, and less time to construct the system. It also means less rope
is required to construct the system. Second, since all pulleys add friction to a system,
the more pulleys we use, the more friction we add to the system. In the next section
you will learn how friction in pulleys affect the overall efficiency of a pulley system.
5) For the least amount of resets in a compound system, put the component with the
least mechanical advantage closest to the load.
6) Using staggered anchor points in a compound system will increase the efficiency by
decreasing the number of resets required.
There are many factors in a pulley system that affect the overall mechanical
advantage. Just because we construct a pulley system that yields a 4:1 mechanical
advantage on paper, we do not necessarily get a true 4:1 mechanical advantage out of
the system. We must subtract friction from the system to obtain the true mechanical
advantage. This friction comes from the pulleys, rope stretch, and the rope contacting
other objects (ground, trees, poles, other ropes, etc.). We have at least some control
over all of these factors.
With this in mind, let us look at the two types of mechanical advantage:
We must ensure that our pulley systems are the most efficient possible, or that
they have the highest ratio of Practical Mechanical Advantage (PMA) to Ideal
Mechanical Advantage (IMA). There are several ways to control this. First, use the
most efficient pulleys you can find. Some testing was done in Invermere, British
Columbia, Canada in 1997 and found the Petzl Prusik Minding Pulley (formerly Rock
Exotica) to be the most efficient. (Note: see also the section on Pulleys, page 6).
Second, use care when constructing a pulley system to eliminate rope drag in
the system caused by twisted ropes. Third, make sure the ropes are not rubbing
against any object, such as a tree, the ground, or anything else. Last, always use a low
stretch rescue rope when constructing pulley systems. The high stretch in climbing
ropes decreases the efficiency of a pulley system.
Personal Skills
In order to conduct safe and efficient rope rescue evolutions, all personnel must
be proficient with a number of basic, personal skills. These include tying knots,
constructing anchors, setting up pulley systems, ascending and descending fixed ropes,
self-rescue, etc. This section will cover the basic skills of ascending, descending, self-
rescue, and the man-on-man pick off. It is important to note that these skills are best
learned in practical training evolutions. One should not attempt to complete these
skills without proper instruction from a qualified rope rescue instructor.
Ascending
1—Harness (class 2 or 3)
1—6-8mm Chest Prusik (approximately 4’ 6” - 5’ 6” length before tying)
1—6-8mm Foot Prusik (approximately 8-10 ft. length before tying)
1—Locking “D” Carabiner
X—Proper PPE (minimum helmet and gloves)
1) Don the harness and have two other rescuers inspect it and do a safety check.
3) Attach the chest prusik to the harness “D” ring using a locking carabiner.
5) Attach the foot prusik to the rope below the chest prusik using a double wrap.
7) Slide the foot prusik as high as you can raise your foot.
9) Slide the chest prusik as high as you can and sit down in your harness.
Remember to orient the carabiner in the “down and down” position. Vibration in
the rope may cause the gate to open if it is in the up position. In addition, while
ascending, keep a close watch on the carabiner. This carabiner often becomes side
loaded or diagonally loaded during the ascending process. Also, remember to use the
appropriate PPE during ascending evolutions. This would include gloves and a helmet.
Note: If using a mechanical ascender, the process is the same.
Descending
1—Harness (class 2 or 3)
1—Rappel Device (figure “8” or rappel rack)
1—Locking “D” Carabiner
X—Proper PPE (minimum helmet and gloves)
1) Don the harness and have two other rescuers inspect it and do a safety check.
2) Pull a bight of rope through the large hole in the figure “8”, making sure that the
strand of rope leading to the ground is on the side of your dominant hand.
3) Pull the bight around the small end of the figure “8”.
4) Attach the locking carabiner to the small hole in the figure “8” (for “8”s with three
holes, it should be the hole on the small end of the “8”, not the middle hole).
5) Attach the carabiner and the figure “8” to the “D” ring on the harness, again
making sure that the rope leading to the ground is on the side of your dominant
hand.
7) Grab the rope with your dominant hand, thumb up, and place that hand tightly
against the side of the buttocks. (Some people like to lightly rest their other
hand on the rope above the “8”.)
8) While maintaining a tight grip on the rope, slowly place your weight onto the
figure “8” and rope.
9) Use the tension on the rope and the tightness of your grip to allow rope to slowly
slide through your hand. This will control your speed of descent. This is called
your brake hand.
10) To stop your descent, grip the rope tightly and pull tension downward.
12) To “unlock” the “8”, reverse this procedure. (Note: it is sometimes difficult for
people with little upper body strength to unlock a figure “8”. Use both hands if
necessary.)
Your descent should be slow and controlled. Faster rappels generate more heat,
which can damage the friction device and the rope. It can also cause burns to your
hands, even if you are wearing gloves. When stopping, bring yourself to a stop slowly.
Sudden stops can cause shock load to all of your system components, and could cause
a failure. When rappelling down walls and other flat surfaces, keep a side stance for
good balance. Your feet should be flat against the wall, with legs parallel to the ground.
(Note: in the picture below, the rappeller’s feet are not flat against the wall.)
Rigging for Figure “8” with Ears Proper Brake Hand Positioning
1) Don the harness and have two other rescuers inspect it and do a safety check.
2) Attach the rappel rack to the harness “D” ring with a locking carabiner. The
short leg of the rack should face away from you (Depending on the style of your
rack and harness, this may not be possible. If not, the short leg should face
toward your brake hand.)
3) Place the rope coming from the anchor on top of the top bar of the rack. Most
racks have a large (1”) top bar with a “training groove” cut into it. DO NOT place
the rope between the frame of the rack and the top bar.
4) Pull all slack out of the anchor side of the rope with your brake hand, pulling the
rope away from you so that the rack is pulled away from your harness.
5) Snap the next bar into place on the rack frame. Pass the rope over top of the
bar. (Note: the second bar on most racks has a straight slot in it as opposed to
an angled slot. This bar will fall out of the rack frame if the rope is passed over
the wrong side of it.)
7) Grab the rope with your dominant hand, thumb up, and place that hand tightly
against the side of the buttocks. (Some people like to lightly rest their other hand
on the rope above the rack. However, with a rack, you can also place your hand
behind the bars of the rack for additional speed control.)
8) While maintaining a tight grip on the rope, slowly place your weight onto the rack
and rope.
9) Release one bar at a time until you attain the correct number required for your
weight and desired speed. For most people, this is four or five bars. Never use
less than four bars.
10) Use the tension on the rope and the tightness of your grip to allow rope to slowly
slide through your hand. This will control your speed of descent. This is called
your brake hand. You can place your other hand behind the bars of the rack.
By sliding the bars together, you will slow your descent, and by spreading them
apart you will speed up your descent.
11) To stop your descent, grip the rope tightly and pull tension downward. You can
also slide the bars together with the other hand.
12) To “lock-off” the rack for hands free operation (ie. to attend to a patient), first stop
your descent. Make sure that the rope is weaved through all the bars. While
maintaining a tight grip and tension on the rope, pull the rope under the last bar
and straight up and over the top of the rack frame, so that the rope in your brake
hand rests in between the rack frame and the rope coming from the anchor.
Bring the rope back down and under the last bar again, and repeat the
procedure. Secure the lock-off with a half hitch around the short leg of the rack.
1—Harness (class 2 or 3)
1—Rappel Device (figure “8” or rappel rack)
2—Locking “D” Carabiners
1—6-8mm Chest Prusik (approximately 4’ 6” - 5’ 6” length before tying)
1—6-8mm Foot Prusik (approximately 8-10 ft. length before tying
X—Proper PPE (minimum helmet and gloves)
2) Attach your short chest prusik to the rope with a double wrap.
3) Attach the prusik to your harness “D” ring using a locking carabiner.
5) Unlock your rappel device and feed rope through it until your weight is on the
prusik.
6) Remove the rappel device from the rope and your harness.
7) Attach the rappel device to a gear loop on your harness, or somewhere out of
the way.
8) Attach your long leg prusik to the rope and ascend (per instructions on page 56).
The above procedure can easily be modified to pass a knot or obstruction in a
rope while rappelling. Instead of removing the rappel device from the rope and harness
in step 6, simply re-attach it below the knot or obstruction. Once the rappel device is re-
attached and all slack is removed, lock it off. Attach the long leg prusik to the rope just
above the rappel device. Stand up in this prusik loop, and loosen the chest prusik.
Remove both prusiks and continue your descent.
1) Ascend the rope to the desired point (using procedure on page 56).
2) Slide the long leg prusik up the rope until it touches the chest prusik.
3) Place the rappel device on the rope, remove all slack, and lock it off.
6) Sit down into your harness. Your weight should now be on the rappel device. If
not, repeat steps four and five until your chest prusik is loose enough for your
weight to be on your rappel device.
7) With your weight on the rappel device, you can now remove your leg and chest
prusiks. (Note: if desired, you can leave your chest prusik in place as a
“pseudo” self-belay.)
8) Rappel
Man-on-Man Pick-Off
There are many variables involved with this evolution, such as: is the patient able
to assist with his rescue; is the patient already wearing a harness; is the patient secure
in his position, or is he hanging on “gecko” style; etc. All of these things are important
aspects to consider, however, they do not affect the basic concept of this type of
rescue. With a few minor changes, this evolution can be adapted to accommodate a
wide variety of situations.
Note: if performing operation in raising mode, replace descent control device with
appropriate raising system equipment (pulleys, prusiks, additional carabiners,
etc.)
2) Have rescuer don a harness and have two others perform a safety check of the
rescuer.
3) Tie a figure “8” stopper knot in the end of the main line. Attach both prusiks to the
main line above the stopper knot. Attach the top prusik to the rescuer. The
bottom prusik will be for attaching to the victim.
4) Tie the belay line to the rescuer using a longtail bowline. Leave about 3-4 feet of
tail. This will be the victims belay attachment.
5) Attach the belay line to the belay system. Attach the main line to the rappel rack
and lock-off.
6) Using “three sets of eyes”, conduct a System Safety Check of both the Main Line
and Belay Line Systems.
7) Lower the rescuer to the victim. Get close enough that the rescuer can reach the
victims harness, or that he can apply a harness if the victim doesn’t have one.
Good communication between the lowering team and the rescuer is essential. Do
not lower too far.
8) Clip the second (lower) prusik into the victims harness “D” ring with a locking
carabiner.
9) Tie the tail of the belay line into the victims harness with a Yosemite Bowline.
10) Disconnect any rope or positioning system the victim is tied to.
11) The rescuer should position the victim so that the victim’s armpits are about even
with the rescuer’s thighs. The rescuer and victim should be facing each other.
12) Continue to lower the rescuer and the victim to the ground.
All of the personal skills outlined in this section are relatively simple to do. With a
little practice, they can become second nature. Anyone operating in the vertical or high
angle environment should be able to complete them without hesitation. It is worth
mentioning again that all the skills and procedures outlined here are practical skills.
They must be learned and practiced through practical skills sessions with a qualified
rope rescue instructor. DO NOT attempt these skills on your own without a qualified
instructor present. Serious injury or death could result if these skills are not done
correctly.
A tripod is a device used to elevate the working rope, or main line, off of the
ground. It is most often used in confined space work to re-direct the rope from the
horizontal plane to the vertical plane and into some type of opening. For example, it is
often used to direct a rope from the ground into a manhole. The tripod can also be used
to elevate the rope off the ground for other evolutions, such as a slope evacuation. By
elevating the rope off the ground, we can eliminate friction in the system by preventing
the rope from rubbing against objects. In addition, in confined space work, we can
extricate a victim completely out of a hole in the vertical mode, without having to
compromise their spine due to excessive movement and rough handling.
Set-up
Tripods are relatively easy to set up. Most are already assembled, and have
folding legs that are either adjustable, or lock in place. Some have a chain to connect
the legs together at the bottom (called the foot). They all have some type of attachment
point at the top for a carabiner and/or pulleys. You must become familiar with your
particular tripod and its set-up. Carefully read the manufacturers instructions and
recommendations regarding its set-up and use.
1) In most cases, spread the legs as wide as possible for greater stability. The
legs on most tripods have a limit as to how far they will spread.
2) Make sure the feet of the tripod are secure and will not kick out. Some tripods
have multiple position feet, for use on different types of terrain. Some feet even
have holes for pickets and attachment points for tie-offs.
3) In most cases, set the height of the tripod as high as it will go. You may have to
attach your carabiners and pulleys before raising the tripod.
4) When working over a hole, center the tripod over the hole. When using for a
slope evacuation or other evolution, make sure the direction of force (force
vector) is within the legs of the tripod.
Since all winches are constructed differently and operate differently, you should
carefully read and understand the manufactures instructions and recommendations
before using one. Become thoroughly familiar with your winch before using it in an
emergency situation. This should be done in practice sessions and training scenarios.
If you do not have a mechanical winch with your tripod, you can use any style of
mechanical advantage system to pull the rescuer and/or victim out of the hole. For
confined space evolutions, many people like to use a simple block-and-tackle system
suspended from the tripod. This works well if the distance between the tripod and the
bottom of the hole is not too great. In addition, if you are using the tripod for a high
directional in a slope evacuation or other evolution, you will have to use a mechanical
advantage system. For this type of evolution, you will only be using the tripod as a high
directional, and the mechanical advantage system will be between the main anchor and
the tripod.