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Ampalaya

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Ampalaya, amargoso or bitter gourd (Momordica Charantia Linn) is one of the most important

commercial and backyard fruit vegetables in the country today. It has both nutritive and medicinal
use. The fruit and leaves of which are used as vegetable and the latter are further used as a laxative
for new born babies while the stem and roots as antidotes for fever. They are rich in calcium,
phosphorus, iron, carbohydrates and vitamin B. It is also known to cure diabetes, arthritis,
rheumatism, asthma, warts, and ulcer.

The commercial cultivation of the crop is concentrated to Region II and IV. Generally two types are
being grown the Sta. Rita type, which is long, dark green and less warty and the Pinakbet type which
is short and warty and much bitter in flavor.

Varieties / Days After Planting


o Sta. Rita strains / 70-75
o Makiling / 65-70
o Sta. Isabel / 70-75
o Jade star (A, L, XL) / 60-70
o Mayon / 65-70
o Million Green / 65-75
o Galaxy / 65-75
Climatic and Soil Requirement
Ampalaya thrives well in all types of climates but high yield can be obtained during the cooler
months because of more flower setting and bigger fruits. It grows in low elevation area anytime of
the year. The crops grow well in any types of soil with a pH of 5.5-6.5. Higher yield however is
attained on sandy loam soil. Soil analysis is a must for commercial planting.

Land Preparation
A good land preparation is very important in ampalaya culture. The field should be well prepared,
plowed and harrowed twice to remove weeds and other plant debris in the field. Furrows are then
made 3 meter apart. Organic fertilizer is applied at the rate of 5 tons per hectare during land
preparation or a week before planting.

Plastic Mulching
An improved technology in the Philippines for ampalaya production is the use of plastic mulch to
cover the beds. Planting holes are bored into the plastic sheet base on the planting distance. It offers
number of advantage, its control weeds, preserve soil moisture, prevent soil erosion and leaching of
fertilizers and reflect light, serving as repellant to insect which hide under the leaves.

To use the plastic mulch, stretch it over the planting beds, with edges held down by thin bamboo
slats, staple well into the soil every 20 cm. Punch holes at 50 cm between plants in the row and 3
meters between rows.

Planting
Ampalaya can be direct seeded or transplanted. Direct seeding is most common, a hectare of
production area requires 2.5 to 3.0 kilograms of seeds, Seeds are soak in water overnight or wrap in
cheesecloth to facilitate water absorption. Seeds are planted the following day or as the radicle
break. Transplanting can also be done specially when the seeds are scarce and during off-season
planting. Seeds are planted in small plastic bags (1 seed/bag with soil mixture of 1:1 garden soil and
sand/compost/carbonized rice hull) and transplanted to the field when the vine starts to grow. Pre-
germinated seeds result in good seedling and an even crop establishment.

Time of Planting
Early planting in some areas is usually done during the months of October to December and the late
planting are during the month of January to February.

Rate of Planting
The rate and distance of planting use by most farmers is three meters between furrows and 0.5
meters between hills with 3 seeds line at 4 inches apart. Other recommended spacing are: 30 m x
30 m with 1 plant/hill and 2.0 m x 0.5 m with 2 plants/hill.

Trellising
Bitter gourd or ampalaya grows best with overhead (balag type) trellis about 6 ft high. A lining of
bamboo poles with abaca twine as lateral supports is done three weeks after germination. Lateral
support of bamboo poles are spaced three meters between furrows and two meters between hills
and the side support is place after the bamboo poles are constructed. The horizontal support of
abaca twine is place before the vine reaches the top with a 6-inch mesh.

Abaca twine is use as a lateral and horizontal support because it does not absorb too much heat
however it is not reusable for the next cropping season.

For plantation, the use of big wooden posts (kakawate or ipil-ipil) are dug into the soil about 1.5 to 2
ft at the four corners of the field and the posts are interconnected with G.I. wire stronger enough as
main frame. The side support is used to prevent breaking down of the trellis.

Vine Training and Pruning


Train the vines on the vertical trellis regularly by tying the vines to the trellis. Lateral shoot/vine may
be pruned every 4-5 days, leaving only the main stem. Initial pruning should be done one month
after planting or when lateral vines appeared.? Remove all lateral vines from ground level up to the
top of the trellis and all ineffective lateral vines above the trellis at 15 to 20 days interval.

Remove all female flowers below the overhead trellis. Allow branching and fruiting on the overhead
trellis. Fruits may also be allowed to form just above the 10th node.

Water and Weeding Management


Ampalaya is a plant that requires an abundant supply of moisture for vegetative and reproductive
development to maintain a good crop stand in the dry season. Furrow irrigation is done twice a week
during vegetative stage and once a week during the reproductive stage or before each application of
fertilizer. Weeding is done when need arises.

Fertilization
The use of organic fertilizer such as manure or compost about 5 to 10 tons per hectare with
inorganic fertilizer is recommended. Apply basal fertilizer at about 25 grams/hill of complete fertilizer
(14-14-14) or 5 bags per hectare. During dry season, sidedress 10-20 grams/hill of (urea 46-0-0) and
muriate of potash (0-0-60) once a month. However during wet season, side dress 5- 10 grams/hill of
urea and muriate of potash every week.

Pests and Diseases Control


Powdery Mildew- It is cause by a fungus that appears as white powdery growth on leaves. Crown
leaves are affected first and may wither and die. The fungus may be introduced on greenhouse
grown plants or wind from areas infected with the diseases. Disease development is favor by high
temperature.
Downy Mildew-A irregular shaped yellowish to brown spots appears on upper side of the leaves,
usually at the center of plants. Under moist condition, a purplish mildew develops on the underside
of the leaf spots. Leaves die as spots increase it size. Spread is rapid from the crown toward new
growth. Moist condition favors the development of the disease.

Bacterial Wilt -The disease is characterized initially by wilting and drying of individual leaves, which
also exhibit cucumber beetle injury. Later, leaves on one or more laterals or entire plants wilts.
Wilted parts may appear to recover at night, but they wilt on successive sunny days and finally die.

Several kinds of leaf diseases attack the plant and can cause yield reduction. Most often, the old
leaves are affected; spraying of Fungicide is a preventive measure. You can consult your local
inputs dealer on how and what fungicide to use. However crop rotation, field sanitation, and the use
of resistant varieties is also highly recommended.

Fruitfly- The fruitfly is one of the major insect pests of ampalaya. Adults lay it eggs on the young
fruits. The eggs later hatch into small worms that starts feeding inside the fruits. Symptoms are
deformed fruits, fruits with holes that turn orange or yellow prematurely. The insect can be control by
removing all damage fruits from the field. Spray only after the removal of the damage fruits with
insecticides recommended by your pesticide dealer. Wrapping young fruits with newspaper or plastic
bags prevent the fruit fly from laying eggs on the fruits. Wrapping reduce the use of pesticides.

Thrips- it is a very small crawling insect on that stays on the lower side of the leaves. It is
recommended to spray during nighttime 2 t0 3 consecutive nights if infestation is severed. This was
found to be very effective time to spray. The pest hides during daytime and cannot be control using
contact insecticides. Neighboring plantation should also be sprayed at the same time. Consult your
input dealer on what pesticides to use in controlling this pest.

Harvesting
Harvest when the fruits are green. Harvesting starts 45 to 50 days after seedling. It can be done
twice a week. Harvest early in the morning to protect harvested fruits against rain, sun, and
mechanical damage. Sort fruits according to marketable standards, and remove damage fruits. Pack
in plastic or bamboo crates line with newspaper or bamboo leaves. Fruits can be stored for 2-3 days
under this condition.

Herbal Benefits of Ampalaya


o Good for rheumatism and gout
o And diseases of the spleen and liver
o Aids in lowering blood sugar levels
o Helps in lowering blood pressure
o Relives headaches
o Disinfects and heals wounds & burns
o Can be used as a cough & fever remedy
o Treatment of intestinal worms, diarrhea
o Helps prevent some types of cancer
o Enhances immune system to fight infection
o Is an antioxidant, parasiticide, antibacterial & antipyretic
o In large dozes, pure Ampalaya juice can be a purgative and abortifacient.
Preparation of Ampalaya:
o For coughs, fever, worms, diarrhea, diabetes, juice the Ampalaya leaves and drink a spoonful
every day.
o For other ailments, the fruit and leaves can both be juiced and taken orally.
o For headaches wounds, burns and skin diseases, apply warmed leaves to afflicted area.
For more information, contact:

Bureau of Plant Industry


692 San Andres St., Malate, Manila
Tel. No. (+632) 525-78-57
Fax No. (+632) 521-7650
E-mail: cu.bpi@da.gov.ph
Web: www.bpi.da.gov.ph

How to Plant Ampalaya

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Ampalaya (Momordica charantia), also known as bitter melon, is a common vegetable in many Asian
countries. Other names of the plant include bitter cucumber, bitter gourd, African cucumber, alligator
pear and balsam pear. It is a fast-growing vine in the same family of plants with cucumbers,
watermelons and squash. The fruit of the plant looks like a cucumber with warts. Inside it is bright
orange with red seeds. It is easy to grow the plant outside in hardiness zones with warm summers.
1

Purchase seeds from an online seed company, garden store or local Asian food market.

Soak seeds in water for 24 to 48 hours before you plant them. This allows moisture to penetrate the
seed coat and leads to swelling of the seed’s parts to spur germination.

Find a location with well-drained, organic-rich, sandy or silt loam and with a minimum average
temperature of about 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the plant’s early growth. The most favorable
temperature range is between 75 to 80 degrees. The plant should ideally receive six hours of sun per
day.
4

Till the soil to rid it of weeds and to increase air circulation. Apply compost to the soil after tilling.

Plant seeds in late spring or early summer. Place two or three seeds in a hole about ½ to 1 inch deep
in the soil along a fence or under a 6-foot-tall trellis form. The holes should be 15 to 23 inches apart
and rows 3 to 5 feet apart. You can also start seeds in small plastic pots in a commercial soil mix.
Transplant the seedlings outside when they reach about 4 inches tall.

Water the plant regularly, enough to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Use trickle or drip irrigation.
Seedlings will emerge about a week after planting.
7

Thin the seedlings when they have at least four leaves each. Leave one plant in each space.

Fertilize plants about every two weeks during early growth and during the harvest period.

Inspect plants for signs of powdery mildew, downy mildew and watermelon mosaic virus. Use
commercially available fungicides to treat mildew issues. Sulfur dust is also good for combating
powdery mildew. Plants that are infected with watermelon mosaic virus will die.

10

Remove any spotted and striped beetles from vines. Use pyrethrum-based insecticides to manage
beetle populations.
Things You Will Need
 Seeds
 Trellis or fence
 Rake or spade
 Sandy or silt loam
 Balanced vegetable fertilizer
Tips
 Prune the vines when stems reach the top of the trellis or fence. Remove the tip of the vine along
with the closest lateral branches.
 Wrap ripening melons in newspaper if you notice fruit flies.
 Harvest the fruit when they are green with hints of yellow and are about 4 to 6 inches long.
Continue to pick every few days until the harvest time is over.
 You do not need a trellis to grow bitter melons, but growing the plant vertically increases the size
and yield of the fruit. It also reduces the chances of diseases and makes it easier to harvest.
Warning
 Bitter melons can survive less optimal soil environments but will not survive droughtlike
conditions.
Ampalaya is the crop that most of the farmers want to grow because there is a consistent demand for it
traders. But these farmers have not had outstanding successes with the vegetable because of the
varieties that they have been planting, although they have tried using hybrid cultivars.

Ampalaya leaves are also a source of income. It is also sold as vegetable. the small lateral branches that
grow from the main and removing these would

The fruit contains the hypo-glycemic principle charantin, which used to treat diabetes

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