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Ignition System
Maintenance, Plugs, Cap, Wires:

Spark Plug Notes

Spark Tester

Cap and Rotor

Plug Wires

Ignition Function:

Bosch or Rex-Regina Ignition?

Basic Operation and Troubleshooting of the EZ 117K

Using OBD Codes to Troubleshoot EZK Ignition Problems in Later Bosch

LH2.4+ Systems

Using Diagnostic Techniques to Troubleshoot EZK and Renix Ignition

Problems in Earlier Bosch LH2.2 Systems

Troubleshooting:
Car Won't Start; Ignition Diagnosis

Ignition Failure after Hot Soak: Won't Re-start

Does My Car Have a Hall or RPM Sensor

Testing Hall Sensor

Replacing Hall or RPM Sensors

Hall Switch Distributor Connector

Distributor R&R and Shaft Seal Replacement

Engine Hesitates When Humid

Distributor Shaft Wear

Ignition Amplifier (Power Stage) Failure

Engine Cuts Out; Tach Drops

Failure to Start; Flywheel Sensor Bad

Timing Unstable; Harmonic Balancer Failing

Timing Off; Ring Gear Out of Position

Ignition Coil Failure and Testing

Regina Coil Pack Contacts Cleaning

Testing the Timing Using a Timing Light

Ignition Switch:

Car Starts but All Electricals Are Dead: Ignition Switch

Ignition Switch Replacement in 740/940

Ignition Switch Replacement in 960

Ignition Key Broken Off in Lock

760 Ignition Key Won't Withdraw or Won't Turn

760 Steering Column Replacement

Abbreviations

AMM = Air Mass Meter

ECT = Engine Coolant Temperature sensor

ECU = Engine Control Unit computer (either fuel injection or ignition)

FI = Fuel Injection

FPR = Fuel Pressure Regulator

IAC = Idle Air Control solenoid valve

TB = Throttle Body

TPS = Throttle Position Sensor

VSS = Vehicle Speed Sensor

Maintenance, Plugs, Cap, Wires:

Spark Plug Notes

See Removing Spark Plugs, Re-Threading Spark Plug Holes, and Installing
Spark Plugs for more information.

Spark Tester

[tip from Don Foster:] To test whether your plugs are receiving a spark
impulse, try this. It's dumb simple and works flawlessly. How to build:
Go to your electronic junkbox, or the local electronics workshop, or to Radio
Shack. Get:

• A neon bulb, NE-2

• About 15' of light-gauge stranded wire (insulated, of course)
• An alligator clip
• A collection of heat shrink tubin

Connect a 3-4' piece of wire to one lead of the neon bulb. Insulate the solder
connection with heat shrink. Attach the alligator clip to the other end of the
wire. This is your GROUND WIRE. Connect a 10-12' piece of wire to the
other lead of the neon bulb. Insulate the connection with shrink tubing. This is
your ANTENNA WIRE. I like to put a larger (diameter) piece of shrink tubing
over the bottom part of the bulb, including the other shrink tubing for
mechanical strength.

How to use:
Find a convenient, out-of-the-way location for the bulb (preferably out of the
light). Connect the ground clip to metal chassis. Feed the "antenna wire"
through the firewall and over the engine. Take pains tosecure it away from
moving stuff, like the fan. Wrap the "antenna" around one plug wire about
15 times, and tie the end of the wire back over itself. DO NOT electrically
connect the "antenna" to the plug wire or to anything else. It picks up the
electrical pulses by induction (hence the term "antenna").

Anytime there is a spark pulse in the wire, the neon bulb will flash -- dimly,
but still flash. This does nothing to the effectiveness of the ignition system, so
can be left there for a month or a year. When the engine's running, the bulb
will flicker. When you're cranking the engine on a cold, rainy morning, you
can watch to see if there's spark. If you have a similar test light attached to
the fuel pump, you can see if the pump's powered.

Cap and Rotor

. B2XX engines come with rear-mounted distributors (between the valve

cover and the firewall) and block-mounted distributors as in the photo to the
right. The latter are prevalent on Rex-Regina powered cars, mostly 94 or 95
vintage.

B230 Engines.

[How do I remove my cap and

rotor: it appears to be right next to
the firewall?

[Response: Various] Carefully pull

off the spark plug wires from the
cap. They will be stuck due to
heat, so use a gently twisting and
pulling motion on the boots. You may need to pry up a little on the boots t
unstick them. Use an 8-mm wrench and remove the three bolts securing the
cap. Pull the cap straight back and off. The rotor is tightly secured by press fit
on the shaft and usually must be pried off with a large flat-bladed
screwdriver. Remember the rotor orientation. To install, press the rotor back
on, inserting it so that the keyway fits, and make sure it bottoms on the shaft.
Reinstall the cap. Using silicone dielectric grease, coat the inside of the wire
boots and reinstall. Press down firmly on the boot tops until the wire "clicks"
into the cap.

B234 Engines

[Jeff Saeger] Removing the cap and rotor with nearly zero clearance:
Remove the wires from the cap; this gives more room and allows space for
the screws to clear the head when the cap comes off. Make a drawing or
mark so you get them back on correctly. I use a box or open end wrench on
the "screws". This allows getting at them from the side. I think there are 3
screws, but one is in an apparently low or difficult to see spot. To get this one
I loosen the bolt which allows the distributor to rotate, careful that you mark
the spot (althhough it was obvious from dirt makes and all on mine, so you
can get the timing back on. By rotating the distributor you can get that last
bolt.

Plug Wires

. [Editor] While people are welcome to try the variety of plug and coil wires on
the market, many of which promise miraculous power gains, the only brand
that consistently works, fits perfectly, and lasts a long, long time is the OEM
wire set from Bougicord. Buy these from Volvo (in which case you get the
upgraded Class F with thicker silicone insulation) or from a specialty Volvo
retailer such as IPD, RPR, or FCPGroton who all sell the Class E versions.
Other wire sets (especially "performance" brands) may lack proper
interference suppressors, in which case you may interfere with radios, air
bags or ABS modules. Anecdotes on Brickboard show disapproval of
Magnecor and approval for Kingsborne wire sets.

Firing Order and Reinstalling Plug Wires:

B230F/T or B234 Four Cylinder: Firing order 1-3-4-2.

• Rear distributor: Left-to-right terminals are 4-3-1-2

• Side distributor: Front terminal is 1, thence clockwise around to 3-4-2
• Plugs: Front-of-engine-to-back: 1-2-3-4

B280F Six Cylinder: Firing Order 1-6-3-5-2-4

 • Rear Distributor: Front passenger side terminal is 1, thence clockwise
around to 6-3-5-2-4 ending at front driver side terminal
• Plugs: Passenger side front-of engine-to-back: 6-5-4; Driver Side front-
to-back: 3-2-1

Wire Grades

[Rick Tilghman] Bougicord makes two spark plug wire grades: grade E and
grade F. The grade is stamped on the wire. Volvo OEM wires are Grade F.
According to Bougicord's website the following distinguishes the two grades:

• grade E: max temp = 160c, min temp = -30c, thermal overload = 220c
• grade F: max temp = 180c, min temp = -30c, thermal overload = 250c

Installation

[from Bougicord] To replace your ignition wires:

1. Make sure the engine has cooled down before attempting to remove
any of the ignition leads.
2. To assure correct firing order, remove and replace only one ignition
lead at a time, starting with the longest lead first. The numbers on the
leads match to the cylinders and assure a correct firing order.
3. Remove any clips and wire separators, and then grasp the ignition lead
end terminal and boot, do not pull the cable. Remove with a steady
rotating pull. (Avoid the use of pliers, screwdrivers, or other tools to
remove the spark plug boot.) Clean off any excess grease found on the
spark plug end or coil tower with a soft cloth and isopropyl alcohol.
4. [Editor] Insert a small amount of silicone dielectric grease into both boot
and nipple and coat the insides of them with this grease to keep out
moisture/ dirt and ease removal.
5. Attach new wire to the spark plug. Reattach clips and route the new
wire back through the separators again to the distributor cap or ignition
coil. This will assure that you have followed the original wire routing
which is designed to keep the wires away from all linkages, the exhaust
manifold, other hot surfaces, and any sharp edges.
6. Place distributor end terminal and nipple over the distributor cap or
ignition coil and firmly attach new wire.
7. Installation tip: When you attach the wire end onto the spark plug,
distributor cap, or coil, listen for and feel for a click. This click indicates
that the snap lock terminal has fully engaged.
Ignition Function:

Bosch or Rex-Regina Ignition?

[Inquiry] How do I tell which ignition system my car has?

[Greg Shutt/Bob/Don Foster] Open your hood and look for the coil. If it's a
Bosch system, the coil will be a cylinder mounted on the passenger-side
firewall. If it's Rex/Regina, the coil will look more like a square transformer
thing mounted on the driver's side strut tower. The "air mass meter" is
another difference. The Bosch air mass meter attaches at the air cleaner box
and has a large hose going to the intake manifold. It should have a 5 wire
connector. Regina system has a similar looking device which is an intake air
temperature sensor attached to the air box with a hose going to the intake
manifold. Instead of a 5 wire connector, it has a 2 wire connector. The
illustration to the right shows the Rex-Regina system components. See also
Fuel Injection.

Note that the components for Regina differ from Bosch and you need to keep
that in mind as you read FAQ notes. For example, the Rex system integrates
the ignition power stage amplifier into the coil; Bosch has a separate unit.
Basic Operation and Troubleshooting of the EZ 117K[Don Willson]

This discussion is based on my 3 cars all of which have the EZ-117K Jetronic
Ignition which is for the 4 cylinder engine, with distributor on the rear of the
cam shaft, the timing signal is from the Hall effect sensor within the
distributor or an RPM sensor on the flywheel, air is measured by an air mass
meter, it has a knock sensor, and throttle position switch.

I have had three 740s and though I am not a professional mechanic I'm a
pretty good DIYer. I seldom use a dealer or independent shop unless time or
tools require it. I am an engineer and like to know what's wrong and how that
affects the engine My basic reference are the Volvo shop manuals,
especially the electrical, engine and ignition manuals.
[Editor's Note: see the section on Maintenance Manuals for more details on
how to obtain the correct versions for your car.]

I will try to show a systematic approach to based on a chronological order

where applicable.

Starting: Turn key to "run"

Power is supplied to the IGNITION CONTROL UNIT , hot side of the COIL,
POWER STAGE, and most accessories.

Turn key to "start". Power is removed from most accessories and applied to
the STARTER SOLENOID. (if the car is equipped with automatic
transmission it must be in Neutral or Park)

The starter pinion gear meshes with the ring gear, the high ampere
connection made and the starter motor operates.

Engine turns over. The sequence of events is as follows.

IGNITION CONTROL UNIT (ignition computer) sends power to the

DISTRIBUTOR.

The HALL EFFECT sensor in the DISTRIBUTOR (LH2.2 systems) sends a

square wave electrical signal that varies from 5 to 0 volts back to the
IGNITION CONTROL UNIT. As the signal rises from 0 to 5V the control unit
starts to compute the timing of the next ignition pulse. As the signal falls to
0V the control unit commences ignition countdown and delivers ignition pulse
as computed. [Editor's Note: this is true for pre-88 cars; newer Volvos with
LH 2.4 use an RPM SENSOR at the flywheel for the same effect.]
When the IGNITION CONTROL UNIT gets this signal it says "the engine is
turning over, let's give it some fuel and spark" (I presume this is a safety
function so that in case of an accident the fuel will not be delivered to a dead
or damaged engine.). It sends the appropriate signal to the:

POWER STAGE (ignition amplifier). This feeds the coil which then send high
voltage to the center tap of the distributor where the distributor sends the
high voltage on to the correct spark plug.

FUEL CONTROL UNIT (LH-Jetronic.) This unit collects signals from the AIR
MASS METER (AMU), COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR, THROTTLE
SWITCH, OXYGEN SENSOR (Lambda sond), and:

grounds the FUEL RELAY which (hopefully) turns on both the IN-TANK FUEL
PUMP and the HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP.

Fuel then flows under pressure, in the 30 to 40 PSI range (though the pump
is capable of pressures up to 80 PSI), into the fuel rail. At the front end of the
fuel rail is a PRESSURE REGULATOR that maintains a pressure in the 30
PSI range though it varies according to engine vacuum. A higher vacuum, as
when idling or running lightly, allows more fuel to flow back to the tank and
the pressure is reduced in the fuel rail. When under higher pressure or even
turbo boost the pressure in the fuel rail is higher and more fuel is delivered
for the same amount of injector open time.

Opens the INJECTORS for the appropriate time. Note, since this is not a
sequential fuel injection system, all INJECTORS fire at once and timing is not
an issue other than that they fire each half resolution, so that fuel is in the
intake manifold ready for any intake valve to open.

Now the engine starts, however, there is more to it.

If the engine is cold, like the first start in the morning, the AIR CONTROL
VALVE opens and acts like a fast idle cam on old non fuel injected cars. The
controlling signal on this is the COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR.
Generally only a few seconds is needed for this to be open, however, under
some conditions it closes, the idle speed drops significantly and it opens
again.

There is no choke but since the choke only forces a rich mixture the FUEL
CONTROL UNIT will open the injectors more times and/or for longer periods.
As the engine warms up various signals are supplied to the FUEL CONTROL
COMPUTER to modify the INJECTOR open time. For example:

The COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR sends a signal to the FUEL

CONTROL COMPUTER that less enrichment is needed (like a choke
backing off)

The AIR MASS METER supplies the engine load as it measures the amount
of air being delivered to the engine, as a function of the THROTTLE position,
and sends this signal to the FUEL CONTROL COMPUTER for use in
determining the optimum mixture

The OXYGEN SENSOR warms up and begins to send a signal to the FUEL
CONTROL COMPUTER that in real time varies the mixture to maintain a
mixture that delivers power with minimum emissions.

The KNOCK SENSOR 'listens' for the characteristic sound of a knock and
sends a notice to the IGNITION CONTROL UNIT which retards the spark in
steps of 2.8° up to 10° to 16°, until knocking ceases. Then it advances the
spark in steps of 0.37° until, if possible, it return to the normal advance.

After fully warmed up and running the COOLANT TEMPERATURE

SENSOR is continuously monitored and if it indicates an overheat condition
it advances the timing by 13° if the throttle is closed on the B230FT engines.

The THROTTLE SWITCH senses when the THROTTLE is closed, foot off of
the gas, on of two things happen:

If the engine is turning over rapidly, above idle speed, the spark and fuel are
adjusted to give the maximum engine braking.
When the engine drops to near idle speed the spark is retarded so as to
provided a smoother idle.

After Shutting Down

One item occurs after the key is turned off, that is that a voltage is sent to the
AIR MASS METER to burn off contaminants that have accumulated.

[Courtesy of Don Willson]

Using OBD Codes to Troubleshoot EZK Ignition Problems in Later

Bosch LH2.4+ Systems See Engine: Diagnostic Codes for instructions on
how to read both ignition and fuel injection computer trouble codes from the
diagnostic boxes in later Bosch LH2.4 systems.

Using Diagnostic Outputs to Troubleshoot EZK Ignition Problems in

Earlier Bosch LH2.2 Systems.

Despite not having a diagnostic box, you can still read some trouble codes
using an LED diagnostic reader. See Engine: Diagnostic Codes for
instructions. You can also follow the steps below, depending on your ignition
model, to test various ignition components and pinpoint faulty units using
simple electrical tests.

Renix-F (B200K)
At Connector A:

Measurement Test OK if: Diagnostic Notes

Terminal 3 & >= 9.5V Check fuse #12 and connector at A-

Ground pillar

Terminal 2 & <= 0.1 Check connector at LH wheel

Ground ohms housing

At Connector B:

Measurement OK if: Diagnostic Notes

Test

Terminals 4 & 5 220ohms +- 60 Check/replace pulse

ohms generator

At Connector C:

Measurement OK if: Diagnostic

Test Notes

Terminal 8 & should have voltage w/ ignition -

Ground advance relay engaged (car )
At Control Unit (in drive or A/C engaged)

Measurement Test OK if: Diagnostic Notes

Terminals 3 & 9 <= 0.1 ohms Check/replace unit

At Coil.

Measurement Test OK if: Diagnostic Notes

Primary coil windings: 0.6 +- 0.2 ohms -

Secondary coil windings 4000 +- 1500 ohms -

EZ 117/118 Series for Bosch LH2.2

At Power Stage Connector:

Measurement OK if: Diagnostic Notes

Test

Terminal 1 & 12V w/ ignition on when rotor is Check fuse #12

Ground firing and connector at A-
pillar

Terminal 4 & 12V w/ ignition on Check connector at

Ground LH wheel housing

Terminals 1 and Resistance matches coil specs -

4

Terminal 2 & 0 ohms -

Ground

Terminal 5 & 2V w/ leads disconnected from -

Ground coil terminals 1 & 15, when
operating starter motor

At EZK Hall sensor wiring:

 Measurement Test OK if: Diagnostic Notes

Terminal 3 (red) & Ground 12V w/ ignition on -

Terminal 2 (blue) & Ground 5V w/ ignition on -

Terminal 1 (black) & Ground 0 ohms -

EZK coil resistance:

Measurement OK if: Diagnostic

Test Notes

EZ-102K 0.6-0.9 ohms (pri), 6500-8500

ohms (sec)

EZ-115K 0.6-1.0 ohms (pri), 6500-9000 -

ohms (sec)

EZ-117/118K 0.6-0.9 ohms (pri), 6500-9000 -

ohms (sec)

For EZ-102K (B23FT)

At ICU Connectors:

Measurement OK if: Diagnostic

Test Notes

Terminal 1 & 12V w/ ignition on -

Ground

Terminals 1 & 11 12V w/ ignition on (#11 is ICU -

ground lead)

Terminal 5 & no continuity (test connector) -

Ground

Terminal 4 & 0 ohms w/ throttle closed, -

Ground increased resistance w/ throttle
open (TPS)
 Terminals 8 & 15 continuity w/ leads at knock sensor -
connector jumped

Terminal 14 & approx 11V w/ ignition on (load -

Ground signal from ECU)

for EZ-115K (B280E/F) / EZ-117K (B230F/B230FT) / EZ-118K

(B200E/B230E/K)

Measurement OK if: Diagnostic

Test Notes

Terminal 6 & 12V w/ ignition on -

Ground

Terminals 6 & 20 12V w/ ignition on (#20 is ICU -

ground)

Terminal 20 & 0 ohms (ground) -

Ground

Terminal 3 & no continuity (test connector) -

Ground

Terminal 7 & 0 ohms w/ throttle closed, non-zero B230FT,

Ground w/ throttle open (infinite resistance B280 only
should not be seen at the ICU)
(throttle switch)

Terminals 7 & 11 0 ohms w/ throttle closed, infinite not

resistance w/ throttle open (throttle B230F/FT
microswitch)

Terminals 11 & 1900 ohms w/ coolant at 22C B230K only

25 Terminals 12 & 13: continuity w/
leads at knock sensor connector
jumped

Terminal 8 and approx. 11V w/ ignition on. (load B230F/FT,

ground signal from ECU) B280 only
 Terminals 10 & 500-600 ohms (crank position B280 only
23 sensor)

Terminal 2 & proper resistance for coolant temp B280 only

Ground (coolant temp sensor)

Terminals 12 & continuity w/ knock sensor B280 only

13; 24 & 25 connectors jumped

Terminals 18 & 0 ohms (Cyl #1 sensor) B280 only

19

Car Won't Start; Ignition Diagnosis.

[Problem:] This morning my 86 740 GLE (B230F) started and ran for approx.
30 seconds then died and will not restart. No spark exists at the coil
(replaced coil with new one no change). The fuel relay does kick on after
taking the ignition switch from start to run. [Response:] Ok let's go thru a
general no start fault trace:

1. Is the transmission in a gear other than "Park"?

2. Is there gas in the tank?
3. When you turn the key on does the pump run for about 1 second?
From your post I would assume that the answer is yes. This indicates
that the fuel pump runs and the relay and ECM are capable of turning it
on.
4. When you put the engine to crank does the pump run during the
cranking? Again you said yes, as you deduced this indicates that the
hall switch is working
5. Iis there spark at the coil itself? (to test pull the coil wire part way out
and have someone else crank the engine) If the answer is yes then the
problem is in the distributor secondary (cap, rotor, wires) If the answer
is no continue.
6. Is there voltage present at the coil low tension terminals with the key
on? ( and are all the wires connected?) If no fix, if yes continue
7. Is the power stage connected? yes? remove the connector and
examine the terminals on both the power stage and connector if they
are corroded they will need to be cleaned. Still no start continue.

Regina-Equipped Cars: [Chris Herbst] The coil, which is an expensive

beast ($200), will (here is the voice of experience) cause random no-starting
though not stalling. See Bosch vs. Regina for identification.
Ignition Failure after Hot Soak: Won't Re-start

[Symptom:]My 1988 744 Turbo with EZK 117 ignition starts and drives fine
with A/C on in 95 degree Maryland weather for about 30 minutes. It won't
start once it is turned off. A strobe test shows no spark. It sits for several
hours (cools down presumably) and then starts right off. In its disabled state
there is system voltage registered at both sides of the coil and at terminals
(1) and (4) of the Power Stage amplifier.

Diagnostic Tips. Next time you have a hard ignition failure pull a plug wire,
insert an old spark plug, ground the outside and check for spark. If you don't
have it, go to the coil center high tension lead and check for spark. Next
ground the coil's high tension lead and put a meter on the coil's 12v
terminals. No 12v switching? Since most systems apply 12v and switch the
ground lead, if there is no 12v at all, check the power lead to the ignition,
wiring, fuse etc. If you do have 12v but no switching then check the Hall
sensor in the distributor. Disconnect the leads from the reluctor (in the
distributor) from the ignition module and measure with a sensitive DMM. You
should see some small voltage as you crank. At this point you've checked the
power to the ignition module, the sensor, and the spark delivery path. That
means the only thing left to do is repair/replace the ignition module.

Diagnosis: LH 2.2 Systems. First, check for a cracked and/or oil-

contaminated harness connector on the side of the distributor. If this is okay,
then replacement of the Hall Sensor in the distributor is the fix. Heat rises in
the stopped engine and increases temperature of the rear-top-mounted
distributor. A weak Hall breaks down and ceases to send pulses to ignition
control module; hence, no spark. Be careful not to bung-up the rivet holes in
the distributor body when you drill out the Hall attachments; you need a good
lip for the new sensor rivet ends to crush against. Mount two bolts in a vice
and use them as supports for the inner ends of the rivets as you mash the
outer ends with a drift.

[More on Hall Sensor:] Best idea when replacing the Hall Sensor is to take
the whole unit (just the bracket) to a dealer and ask them to drill the old one
and put the new one in. The rivets on the Hall are harder than the aluminum
bracket plate so if your drill slips out you will have to buy a new distributor
cause you can not buy just the bracket. If you replace it yourself, you will
need the help of a second person to put the sensor back on. It has 2 rivets
that need to be drilled out. When you place the new one on you need a
second person to hold it squarely over a punch so you can peen the rivets in
place. There are instructions in the Volvo manuals. Be sure to note the way
the collar with ears comes off.

[Contrary Opinion on Hall Replacement:] Although Volvo sells the Hall sensor
separately from the distributor assembly, a new distributor is usually more
cost-effective for two reasons: First, installing the mounting rivets in a new
sensor is awkward, tedious work . Because the sensor location prevents you
from getting a straight shot at the rivet heads, it's very difficult to drive the
rivets in securely. Second, bushing wear is common in higher-mileage Volvo
distributors. You can usually feel the wear-lateral movement in the distributor
shaft-with the distributor removed from the engine. A sloppy distributor shaft
usually goes hand-in-hand with distributor oil leaks, especially through the
seal protecting the inside of the distributor.

Diagnosis: LH 2.4 Systems. No-hot-restart problems are almost always due

to failures in: fuel injection relay, radio suppression relay, or rpm sensor.

Does My Car Have a Hall

or RPM Sensor? You can
quit worrying about the Hall
sensor if you have a 89 or
later non-turbo or 90 or
later turbo: the last years
for the Hall sensor were
1988 and 1989,
respectively. The Hall
sensor is gone in favor of
the RPM sensor on top of
bell housing. In these cars,
there is no plastic wiring
connector on the side of
the distributor plate and no
wires into the distributor other than the high-tension spark leads to the cap.
The illustration shows the Hall Sensor distributor and the arrow depicts the
sensor.

Testing Hall Sensor. Failure Modes. The Hall Sensor distributor can fail
through broken wiring insulation, a broken wiring connector at the side (this
embrittles over time due to engine heat), or a failed Hall Sensor.
Quick Hall sensor test: [Note from Dave] the tachometer needle does jump
slighty as you crank engine over if the Hall sensor is working, but the needle
lays dead if the sensor is not working.

Full Hall Sensor Test: Undo the distributor connector. When the ignition is
ON the Voltage between positive terminal (red lead -Nr. 3) and ground
should be approx. 11V. Voltage between (blue lead - Nr.2; middle one) and
ground should be 5V although if you put it on a scope you would see the
sharp rise and fall from 12v to ground as the distributor rotates. Pulse
frequency varies as rpm is increased. . Resistance between (black lead - Nr.
1) and ground should be close to zero Ohms. Undo connector from the
control unit (above the brake pedal) and remove the sealing washers (plastic
inserts on the side of the connector). Replace connector without cover or
sealing washers.

- Disconnect the/red and blue leads from ignition coil. - Measure voltage
between terminal 24 at rear of control unit connector (blue lead) and ground.
NOTE: Connector must be attached to control unit. Switch on ignition. Turn
crankshaft by hand. Voltage should indicate OVER 1.8V each time a vane
passes Hall generator. Instrument should read approx."0" (0 - 0.7V) each
time an opening passes Hall generator. The correct voltage is less than 0.7V
or more than 1.8V.

Replacing RPM or Hall Sensors.

RPM Sensor: If your car is a non-turbo 89+ or turbo 90+ model then it has a
flywheel reading RPM/Position sensor that is down below the rear of the
cylinder head, mounted on the bellhousing through a bracket retained by one
bolt that should be a 10mm head on a 89. It is connected to wires above the
engine on the firewall.CAUTION: [Chris Herbst] Never pry the RPM sensor
out of the flimsy internal bracket to which it is attached. Spray a tiny bit of
penetrant around it if you have to, but not enough to leak down on the clutch
if it's a manual trans car. And if you have the trans out for any reason, take
the RPM sensor out--whether or not you reuse it--and coat it LIGHTLY with a
film of grease. That will avoid the problem, should the sensor need
replacement in the future. See Crank Position Sensor for more information.

Hall Sensor: If it is 89 turbo or pre-89 NA then it has a Hall switch that is in

the distributor to sense engine rotations. The Hall switch is tough as it
requires that you knock out a pin and pull out the shaft, then VERY carefully
drill out a couple of pins that retain the hall switch. Then you have to be very
careful about supporting the distributor base while bradding the retainer pins
to retain the new hall switch. If you slip while bradding the pins then you
punch out a hole in the base and then you need a new distributor.
[Response:] Changing that is not for the novice. It is riveted into the
distributor. Some dealers offer rebuilt exchange on the distributors. Before
you jump to the hall sensor, carefully examine the wires from the firewall to
the distributor, which sometimes break inside from years of flexing. These
can be repaired with a little work. Also, check the brittle plastic connector
where the wires go into the distributor. This can cause intermittent shorting.
The plastic fitting is Volvo PN 1346793, about $3.00 as I recall. If you are
going to remove the distributor for any reason, carefully scribe a mark to
return it to its exact former position so as not to change the timing (the holes
in the distributor are slotted). Finally, check for any shaft wear on the
distributor: wobbling is abnormal.

Removing the Distributor Shaft. [Response: John Sargent] The hardened

pin in the drive dog can be tough to remove in order to take out the shaft and
tigger wheel. I have a drill press vice which has a V-groove in it for gripping
shafts. I clamp the shaft in the drill press vice, and drive the pin out. You will
have to have a good pin punch of the right size. You may break or bend a pin
punch that is too small. Take carefull note of the previous post regarding the
rivets. The pot metal base is easy to damage. A good alternative is to buy the
base complete with Hall sensor and seals from IPS in Boise for just under
$100. The Hall sensor runs over $60 from Volvo, and RPR quoted me about
$90.

[Jim] Mark the slot drive in relation to the rotor notch- it can be installed 180
degrees out. Punch the retainer pin out- use a good punch and a solid
surface to support the drive. The pins can be quite tight. Remove the drive,
collect and count the thrust washers, remove the shaft from the housing and
collect those washers too. There may be some fiber washers which are not
replaceable. There is a serrated steel washer peened into the aluminum
housing- pry it out, trying not too bend it too badly- It can be straightened
with a hammer if need be. Pop the seal out, clean the housing, push the new
one in, carefully tap the steel washer in ( don't worry about peening it in- it
can't go anywhere anyway. Assembly is reverse of removal.

Replacing the Hall Sensor. [Response: Jim] Plan to use a Dremel or die
grinder to grind off the two rivets or you will punch out the thin aluminum of
the housing, and will be buying a new distributor. [Response:] I've done few
of these. Never alone, however. Drill out the old rivets carefully and pry out
the sensor. Next, have an assistant you can trust with approximately $ 70.00
hold the new sensor in its proper place on the distributor plate. Place a steel
punch of roughly same diameter as the rivets into the bench wise. Have the
assistant hold the D. plate in such a way that the rivet is directly over the
punch. Now, YOU, using the second punch and a hammer CAREFULLY hit
the top part of the rivet. It will take MANY hits since these darn rivets are
made of steel. The key here is steady hands, and frequent breaks. One
wrong move, and you are done. Simple physics tell you which, steel or
aluminum will crack first under constant hammering. This is akin to putting a
horse shoe onto an a hard boiled egg, possible but very nerve wracking.
[Response: Jim] To rivet the new sensor in place, take a 5/16 bolt about 5
inches long and drill a depression in the end of it to just fit over the end of the
rivet in the new switch. You also must grind the end down in diameter so it is
only supporting the rivet, and not touching the plastic. Grab the bolt in a vise,
get a friend to hold the distributor in place, and carefully peen the rivets. I
have a very small chisel that works well, or a centerpunch will do the job.
Don't overtighten the rivets- all that is needed is to keep the switch solid.
[Response: DanW] Don't let these warnings scare you off. It is really not a
difficult job. When I replaced the hall effect sensor on my daughter's car, I
followed the advice of my local mechanic and instead of peening the rivets I
used JB Weld to fasten the new sensor in place. There are two or three O-
rings that you should also replace. Replace the sensor connector and plastic
ring which keeps the wires out of the rotating sensor wheel. My own caution:
There are steel and fiber washers on the shaft. Keep track of their order and
be very careful with the fiber washers. They are fragile (Don't ask.) and no
one seems to have replacements. This is not a tough job. Just be careful and
you can save yourself about $200 in parts alone. I bought new plugs, wires,
cap, and rotor when I did this job. Total cost was about $200.

Reliability Tip. I would throw in a junkyard distributor to get back on the

road, rebuild the original distributor with a new sensor, seals etc. at my
leisure, and then swap in the rebuilt unit. This is one of the very few failures
that can stop your 740 completely, so a big confidence boost can be gained
by having a good spare distributor on board. It's hard to reach, but a practical
road-side repair to change distributors.

Hall Switch Distributor Connector. While replacing the distributor cap and
rotor on the 87 764T the Hall switch connector at the distributor cracked off
some of the old plastic and
wouldn't stay on the
distributor base. Didn't
crack any wires/insulation.
This distributor is used at
least through 90 (my 90
740T has the part) and so
did an 86 B230FT engine I
used the long block on the
87. (Illustration courtesy of
Mike Ponte)

Removing the Wires. [Jim] The black wire retainer is usually broken away
from the housing. I have found the best way to get the wires out is to VERY
carefully grind the plastic away, finishing with the wire wheel, until the tab
holding the individual wire in is free. Don't mix the wires up- the new housing
is marked + and -. The white wire holddown will come off with a little
screwdriver work.

Repair. The repair was quick and dirty...I mixed up some loctite filled epoxy
and glued in the connector. The stuff sets up quickly and I baked it at warm
(lowest possible setting) in the kitchen oven for 5 minutes. Seems to be
working since I put it together and am driving the car. If it blows I still have
the distributor from the 86 engine with the unbroken connector. [The plug is
available at the dealer. I got one a year ago. I think I paid $6.00.]

Wiring at the Connector. [Tip from John Sargent] Here is the correct wiring
at the sensor connector in case your wires came out. Looking down on the
top of the distributor, with the Hall effect connector down, left to right: black,
green, red.

Distributor R&R and Shaft Seal Replacement. Oil leakage from the
distributor on engines with camshaft-mounted distributors usually originates
at the distributor shaft o-rings. High engine temperatures can cause these o-
rings to shrink. There are three seals: two outer o-rings and an internal shaft
seal under the drive dogs. [Editor's Note: See Michael Ponte's excellent
illustrations at http://www.mikeponte.com/volvo/dist.htm These picture a pre-
89 distributor with a Hall switch, but are similar to newer ones as well.]
Copies below:
 [Inquiry:] I have the
beginnings of an oil leak at
the distributor o-rings (just
beneath the shaft on the
B230F distributor.)
According to Chilton's, it's
easy to pull the cover, cap
and rotor, remove the
shaft, and pull the
distributor out to replace
both the big dust cover o-
ring as well as the smaller
o-ring inside on the shaft.
Has anyone actually done
this? Is access a problem?
How about replacing the
distributor: do you have to
pay close attention to shaft
alignment?

[Another Related Inquiry regarding Timing:] My distributor appears to be

seeping a small amount of oil on my 93 940 (sohc engine). I noticed this
while doing the 90 kmiles service. I also noticed the PO or his mechanic
ditched the plastic dust shield. First thing Monday, I'll get the dust cap as I'm
thinking it will keep the rotor and inside the cap clean. But I'm thinking maybe
its time to replace those nasty o-rings. Just one question, my book claims the
timing is not adjustable. I'm kind of wondering how do I set the timing, if I pull
the distributor and replace those o-rings? I can't find any info on this in my
books.

Removing the Distributor: [Editor's Note:] The spark plug high-tension

leads will probably be tough to remove if you did not use dielectric grease on
the boots last time they were installed. Gently pry up the boots about one
centimeter with a blunt blade that won't scratch the cap, then pull them off
while holding the tops of the boots. [Response 1: Don Willson] Mark the
spark plug wires and the Hall connector down below (if your car has one)
and push the connector "hair pin" in and pull down. Remove the three cap
screws with an 8 mm metric open end wrench. The screws in the cap are
captive and will not drop out. [Hall switch distributors: Mark the position on
the locking screws on the adjustment slot. Non-Hall distributors have a self-
aligning plastic device, but you may want to mark the location of the
distributor on the cam anyway] Pull the cap straight back. Remove the two
10mm distributor plate bolts. Pull distributor straight out the back, noting the
position of the plate, rotor and offset eared drive cog. Draw a diagram so
you can reinstall everything correctly and not 180 degrees out of alignment.
Now is the time to test for shaft wear and wobbling.

O-Rings:

There are two outer o-rings on the distributor shaft visible when you pull out
the distributor. [Kevin Lawlor] The small o-ring fits on the end of the shaft
and the large o-ring fits on the housing. Use a little Vaseline to install easily.
[Tip from
JohnB]
There
are three
O-rings,
but the
inside
one (the
center
shaft
seal, see
below) is
almost

impossible to replace, just forget it. The big O ring on the housing is generally
the leaker and the little ring on the shaft helps to keep oil out of the distributor
itself. [John Sargent] According to Volvo TSB of March, 1988, you should use
the green o-rings made of improved elastomer rather than black rings.

Center Shaft Seal There is a center shaft seal inside the distributor plate
that dries out and leaks oil. This shaft seal is hard to find.

Where to Find Center Shaft Seal: [Randy Starkie] Get the entire
aftermarket seal kit from FCPGroton for about $3. [Tip from John Sargent] If
you have distributor shaft seal leaks in the 700 series with B230 engines
(cam driven distributor on rear of head), the distributor o-rings are available
from Volvo, but the shaft seal is not. A few weeks ago I even looked in the
parts manual, and the shaft seal is not shown. Jim found that Honda part
#91205-KF0-003 is a replacement for this seal. It works perfect. However, it
is not stocked by many Honda mower dealers, and some want a $7.50
service fee to order a non-stocked part. The seal is about $2.50 US from
Honda (#91205-KF0-003 Honda or Transcom #12X20X4TC). This seal is
simply a metric seal, 12mm X 20mm X 5mm. It is for a 12mm shaft, it is
20mm OD, and 5mm thick. It is also a rubber coated (that's good) seal with
two lips. As near as I can tell, the original seal Volvo used came both rubber
coated and non-coated, and appears to be a single lip seal although I can't
tell for sure. Now for the substitutions. Chicago Rawhide seal 4701 is exactly
the same with a single lip. Transcom seal #12X20X4TC is a double lip seal,
rubber coated, that is 4mm thick. That is what is in the distributor in my wife's
745T. When I installed the seal, I set it with the outer edge flush with the
distributor housing. There is a 1mm gap behind it which won't hurt anything.
You could also set it all the way back in the housing, and it should also be
fine. It fits tight, and I doubt that it would ever move out against the seal
retainer. The Transcom seal cost $1.82 US from a local bearing sales house.
For those of you who can't get those brands of seals, simply contact a
bearing supply company and tell them you want a 12mm X 20 mm X 5mm
seal, preferably rubber coated with double lips.

How to Replace Center Shaft Seal:

See John Sargent's excellent illustrated procedure to understand how to do

this. [Procedure from Jim] To do this job, you need the seal (see above).
Most likely, this is a good time to change the Hall sensor as well: see below.

Here are the basic instructions- ignore the bits about the parts you are not
changing. Remove the distributor cap, rotor, and plastic shield, and remove
the distributor from the head. Mark the slot drive in relation to the rotor notch-
it can be installed 180 degrees out of alignment. Punch the retainer pin out-
use a good punch and a solid surface to support the drive. Use a tapered
punch to get the pin moving, then lube the pin and chase it out with a straight
pin punch. Straight pin punches often bend and break when you initially use
them to get the pin moving.The pins can be quite tight and it takes some
determination to drive it out. For a special tool to do this, see the Special
Tools FAQ section. Remove the drive, collect and COUNT the thrust
washers, remove the shaft from the housing and collect those washers too.
There is a serrated steel washer peened into the aluminum housing- pry it
out, trying not too bend it too badly- It can be straightened with a hammer if
need be. Pop the seal out, clean the housing, push the new one in, carefully
tap the steel washer in (don't worry about peening it in- it can't go anywhere
anyway. Assembly is reverse of removal. [Contrary thoughts from Chris
Herbst] Can I make a logical suggestion straight from the shop? Replace the
whole distributor. On an 89 it is not an expensive proposition because there's
no hall effect sensor on the distributor. The distributors for the later models
are much less expensive, and you will drive yourself crazy trying to repair the
inner shaft seal in the distributor as it is now. I hate that job and have since
given in to replacement, which is often against my basic principles. In this
case, it's such a breeze to replace the whole distributor that it wouldn't make
sense to replace the center seal. Fiber Washers. If you have fiber washers in
your distributor and you break one or more during removal, go to Home
Depot or a hardware store, buy some similar washers, and drill or file and
hand-sand the inner hole until it fits the shaft. Mylar washers in particular fit
well, being very thin. The dealer will often be of no help with these small
parts.

Shaft and Driver Orientation: Mark all removed pieces and their
orientation. The cogged driver can be installed 180 degrees in reverse and
the car will not start. The offset drive cogs on the driver should be toward the
same side of the shaft as the slot for the rotor cog.

[Pin Removal Tip from Tom Irwin:] The solid pin should be much easier.
Generally, pressing the pin out with static force works better than shock
force. Use a vise with a counterbored block of solid material in the rear jaw to
support the shaft against compressive force, then at the front jaw, use a
hardened pin or drill bit as a drift and squeeze it up gently. A large nut in the
rear jaw should be all the fixture you need, maybe Dremel it out to roughly
match the contour of the shaft. When the pin extends enough out of the
shaft, grab it up with a vise grip and yank it out.

Older Distributors using Hall Sensors: Wiring Connector Repair. While

the distributor is off check the 'housing' carefully...that's the official Volvo part
name for the little black connector that has three blades in it that connects
the Hall effect sensor to the wiring harness. It's about $3.00 or so and breaks
down in 10 years of oil and heat and engine washes. It's fairly difficult to
reinstall...strong fingers and
a pliers required. Needle
nose maybe to pull the
blades entirely into the
housing once the housing
is on the distributor body.
But the housing
replacement is thoroughly
gratifying if the connector
was just hanging there.
FWIW, I tried to
repair/replace the housing with epoxy and it just didn't hold. [Tip: JohnB]
The black plastic housing for the ignition trigger connector is
replaceable...you don't need to get a new distributor to replace it. Highly
recommend you replace it.

Older Distributors using Hall Sensors: Hall Sensor Replacement

Fix or Buy? [Tip from Bruce] The procedure requires some skills (see Jim's
remarks below.) If you can locate a Bosch aftermarket source or an
independant Volvo repair center try to get a complete new distributor, cap
and rotor as one unit. They are not cheap. Price out the Hall switch, o-rings
and cap and rotor. You may not be much less that the price of a complete
new unit. Shop around for a Bosch service center or and independent Volvo
repair center who may sell you the complete Bosch unit cheaper that a Volvo
brand unit.

Hall Sensor Replacement Procedure. [Tips from Jim] If you rebuild the
distributor shaft seals, then it may be a good time to change the wire
connector for the hall effect switch, Volvo p/n 1346793, and the hold-down for
the wires to keep them fron hitting the rotating parts, Volvo p/n 1346794. In
case you are not aware of it, the hall effect switch is available separately
from the housing for a bunch less money than a whole distributor, too. Volvo
p/n 1346792. A few blacksmithing skills are needed for that part of the job,
but it is not too tough. I have found the only way to check the hall switch is
with a lab scope, but also find that a car with 250,000 km or more almost
always runs better with a new one. I guess after it has turned on and off a
couple of billion times, the magnet or transistor or whatever starts to get
weak, and won't give a clean voltage change.

The black wire retainer is usually broken away from the housing. I have
found the best way to get the wires out is to VERY carefully grind the plastic
away, finishing with the wire wheel, until the tab holding the individual wire in