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ALGIEES IN 1857.
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 :

ALGIERS IN 1857.

ITS ACCESSIBILITY, CLII^IATE, AND KESOUECES

DESCRIBED

WITH ESPECIAL REFERENCE TO ENGLISH INVALIDS.

DETAILS OF RECREATION
OBTAINABLE IN ITS NBIGHBOFBHOOB,

ADDED FOR THE USE OF TRAVELLERS IN GENERAL.

BY THE

REV. E. AV. L. DAVIES, M.A. Oxon.

VICAR OF ADLINGFLEET, AXD EXTEAL DEAN OF SELBT.

LONDON
LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, & ROBERTS
185S.

Thu ,i.,hl i.r I .•iiMnhitfi,.! i> i-i>ti>i-rf<l

 :

DEDICATION.

THIS LITTLE WOEK IS DEDICATED

to t^e picmorg
OF

L. J. D.

A WIFE AND irOTHEE,

WHOSE BESIOEATIOir TO HEALTH WAS THE SOLE OBJECT OF THE

WBITEE'S visit TO ALGIEBS.

By God's will she did not recover;

Yet it is consolatory to know that an alleviation of pain, mental

and bodily, was at least one happy result of the journey.

The soft but invigorating climate gave at once ease to

the lungs and tone to the constitution ;

While the novel and varied scenes of African life never failed
to supply attractive subjects for the pencil and
pleasing occupation for the mind.

In choosing a patron for inscription,

custom inclines us towards the rich and mighty of the Earth
Be it mine to go still higher, even to one who now shines

" as the stars for ever and ever."

E. W. L. D.
 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

PAGE
Route and Residence. — Hotels. — Lodgings. — Fish-Market.
— Game. — Fruit and Vegetables. — Moorish Houses
very like domestic Prisons. — Curiosity to many fatal a

gallant French Officer . . . . .1

CHAP. n.

Climate. — Air and Water. — The Autumn of 1856 an

exceptional Season. — Arab Dress suited to the Climate. -

Consumption rare among the Arabs : common among the

Moors and Turks. — Sedentary occupation dangerous

where hereditary taint is suspected. — Tight Corsettes the

Ruin of thousands annually in England.— Temperature.
—Medical Men and Chemists of Aigiers. — Church of

England Service . . . . .24

 CONTENTS.

CHAP. in.

Suburbs and Scenery. — Rides and Recreation. — Sketch-

ing. — St. — Omnibuses. — Voitures and
Eugene.

Arab Houses Hire. — View from Boudjareah. — The

for

Hanging Gardens of Marengo. — The Bcl-ombrist.— The

Two Mustaphas. — Arab Horse-racing. — A Senator in
— Jardin
Difficulties. — The Maison Canrec. —
d'Essai.

Fort-de-l'eau. — Staoueli. — The Monastery of La Trappe . 41

CHAP. IV.

Society.— Variety of the human Visage and Costume at

Algiers. — The Cry of the Muezzin. — The good Mussul-

man hurries the Mosque. — Insult offered

to the French to

Consul by Hussein, the Dey of Algiers. — English

last

Ladies visitthe Ladies of a Turkish Family. — The Jews

of Algiers. — Proselytism of the Natives discouraged by

the French Govcmmcut. — A zealous Missionary. — Moors

and Maurcsques . . . . . .74

CHAP. V.

The Settlers.— Breaking new Ground fatal to the first

Cultivators. — Army of Officials, — The liabyles. — The

Marabouts. — Safe Travelling in the Colony . .103

 —

COXTENTS. XI

CHAP. VI.

The — Jugglers — Old Pirate. — Moorish Circum-

Carnival.

cision.— Shooting in the Marshes. — Dog Stealers of

Algiers. — Captain Loche's imperial Collection of Birds.

Captive Eagles. — Boar Hunting. — The Moorish Baths.

The Mozabites. — A Day's Sport in the Metidja, — A

Negro Fete. — Another big Boar Hunt. — Arab Horse-
manship. — Paucheux's Revolvers. — Ostrich Hunting.

Hawking. — Minister of War's Report. — Return

Marseilles. ...... to

113
 LIST OF PLATES.

Frontispiece.
I. Algii-rs

Rue d'Orleans to face page 14

TI. Our own Street, . •

Maure 56
III. Cafe

IV. Distinguished Zouave .... >

108
 ALGIERS IN 1857.

CHAPTER I.

ROUTE AND RESIDENCE.

When a medical man, who has the confidence

of his patient, is good enough to express an
opinion that the climate of England is no
longer suited to his ailment, the question is
at once asked, " Whither shall I go for a
better ? " — and then follows a list of Mont-
pelliers and Spas, so numerous, so various, and
so opposite, that the inquirer is only perplexed
by the answer.
At length Murray, or a map, or some mem-
ber of " the Travellers' " comes to his aid, — the
choice is made, and the invalid proceeds to
his destination. Instances of this kind are so
B
2 ALGIEKS IN 1857.

frequent, that there is scarcely a week in a

winter in which Enghsh famiUes do not shut

up their houses suddenly, and seek health and
existence in climates less northerly and more
genial than their own. Like the Sultan of
Serendib, however, in search of happhiess,
they leave home knowing their own wants,
but ignorant of the means and resources by
which those wants are to be supplied : they
either take no pains, or they are unable to

obtain correct information on the peculiarities

of the climate and country in which they in-
tend to sojourn ; and thus the visit is too often

marked by discomfort and extortion, if not by

even more unsatisfactory results. This was
just our predicament, when, under medical
directions, we were ordered off in mid-winter
to the sliores of the Mediterranean. Gibraltar,

]\Iahiga, and Algiers, were severally recom-

mended ; but, from the following report, lighted
upon at the hist moment, Algiers was pre-

ferred, and thither we bent our bteps :

—
"Winter . . . 62'13°
Spring . . .61-04
Summer . . . 75*09
Autumn . . . 78-26
 — ;

ROUTE AND RESIDENCE. 3

The mean temperature of Algiers for the

whole year being 69*13°, it most approaches
that of Malta ; but exceeds it by 2°, Malaga
by 3°, Madeira by 4°, Rome by 9°, Nice by
10°, and Pau by 13°. Cairo is 3° higher

(mean), yet its winter is 4° colder than that of

Algiers."
A land of promise, wherein it would appear
that the heat of summer is not excessive, and
the bitterness of winter is altogether unknown
and, under a conviction that the above figures
represented facts, at least for one year, we left

England in a storm of snow, crossed the

Channel at Folkestone, and arrived at Paris
on the following day. Here a cold, black
wind, blowing keenly from the east, and a
sharp fi'ost prevailing, we took tickets for
Lyons without delay : we started by express
train at 11 A. M., and reached Lyons comfort-
ably at 9.30 p. M. On passing Dijon, about
200 miles south of Paris, we again encountered
snow, which, destroying the effect of the
scenery in the most beautiful part of France,
the valley of the Rhone, — accompanied us until
we reached Avignon. We were warned to
make no long stay at Lyons, the birthplace of
B 2
 ALGIERS IN 1857.

republicanism ; and we found, to our cost, that

the little we were compelled to remain

time
there was "by much too much," as the host
was indifferent, the servants uncivil, and the
bill extortionate. However, Mrs. Harriet
Beecher Stowe occupied the same hotel with
us, and after a pleasant conversation with that

lady, our grievances vanished with the snow.

"We left Lyons at 8 a. m. by express, and,

travelling through a vast garden of olives,

vines, and mulberry-trees, verily a land of

wine and oil, we reached ]\Iarseilles at 4 p.m.,
and took up our quarters at the Hotel de
I'Empereur. The journey from Lyons was
not without its incident. In the same carriage
with ourselves was an English lady and two
Lyonnaise: the former wore a respirator,
which, as she was muzzled and might have
been dangerous, seemed to give some annoy-
ance to those ladies. " Mais c'est dcgoutant,"

said one. " C'est affreux," answered the other.

Upon which the Englisli lady, who had hitherto

taken no part in the conversation, said quietly,

and in excellent Erench, " lielieve me, ladies,
the respirator is a very convenient tiling for

ugly faces. I advise you to get one without

 KOUTE AISD RESIDENCE. 5

delay." No broadside was ever fired with

greater effect ; itwas a shock to their amour
propre such as two French women had rarely
sustained, and evoked in return a volley of
small shot such as Lyons alone or Wapping
Old Stairs could equal. They finally left the

carriage, muttering derisively :

" Les Anglais

savent faire les complimens ; c'est pourquoi ils

sont detestes partout."

There are winds of an ill savour, which blow
from the Levant and from the north-west over
Marseilles, and which are highly pernicious
to delicate lungs, and indeed to English lungs
in general but there are vapours of a far
;

worse savour, which rise from the dead water

of the inner port, and which are quite suf&cient
to account for the pestilences which have so
frequently devastated this densely populated
town. The inhabitants need not go beyond
this evil to trace a mischief of which the
world has to complain. The inner port is a
miasmatic lake of bilge-water, into which the
refuse of the town and shipping falls, and
which, from the untidal character of the sea,

remains unchanged and unchangeable. In

England we have pretty nearly its counterpart
B 3
6 ALGIERS IN 1857.

in the Float of Bristol ; though here, imlike

Marseilles, the citizens dam up the offensive
water with flood-gates, and, for commercial
purposes, endure it within their walls.
AVe arrived at Marseilles on a Friday, and,
being anxious to get forward without delay,
inquired at the Hotel de VEmpereur how soon
the first packet sailed for Algiers. Not only
the host, but every servant to whom we put
the question, gave a decided answer that no
packet left before Tuesday. Dissatisfied with
this information, we sallied forth into the
town, and found, within one hundred yards of
our hotel, the Bureau of the IMessageries Im-
periales, at No. 1, Rue Mangrand, Place
Royale. Here we soon discovered that the
foregoing landlord and his men were either
troubled with very sliort memories, or that
they lied in league. The " Tclemaque " was
appointed to sail on the folloAving morning,
as usual ; so we at once took berths in her,
as near midships as we could get them, for
Algiers. The price of passage for a first-class
passenger is ninety-five francs ; for which the
company take you and your luggage on boarrl,

get your passport vis(jd, and provide you

 ROUTE AND RESIDENCE. 7

during the voyage with every comfort and

luxury that can be desired : even a cup of
good tea at daylight is not forgotten. The
accommodation, the cleanliness, and the living,

is in fact equal, and in some respects superior,

to that of the best hotels in France. The
passage is usually performed in forty-eight
hours —two davs and two nio^hts ; but some of
the fast steamers of this excellent company
take little more than forty hours for the trip.

The Messageries Imperiales alone have a fleet

of fifty fine steamers, averaging from 200 to
370 horse-power, for this and other lines in

the Mediterranean. On Tuesdays and Satur-

days a mail steamer belonging to this com-
pany always leaves Algiers and Marseilles,
weather permitting, at 1 2 o'clock at noon ; and
on Thursdays, the packets of another company
do the same service. So that the traveller has
the choice of two companies, both carrying
mails, and three days in the week, for his passage

from either place; — no small advantage, if the

weather be unpropitious, or despatch necessary
to his movements.* It should be mentioned

* The electric telegraph wires now connect Algiers

with the capitals of Europe.
B 4
8 ALGIERS IN 18^7.

that, if a family return-ticket be taken, a re-

duction of thirty per cent, on the cost of the
passage is allowed by the j\Iessngeries Im-
periales, and that three months is the period
for which such tickets are issued. Indeed, a
friend of ours, crossing over, induced the
manager of the bureau to extend the period of
return to four months, of which extension he
and his family availed themselves almost at
the last day.
Saturday was a cold but glorious day for
the sea, and we embarked comfortably at noon,
with every prospect of a pleasant and calm
voyage. On quitting the picturesque and
beautiful bay of Marseilles, the speed of the
*'
Telemaque " was such that in little more than
an hour the town and surrounding chateaux,
the forts, and martello towers were all jumbled
tofjether in one confused mass ; and nothino^
could be distinguished with accuracy but the
rufr";ed and broken outline of the distant hills

which flank and support the town. Attracted

by the cook's preparations and the sundry
scraps which were occasionally cast over the
sliip's side, a small convoy of three herring
gulls left the bay simultaneously with our-
 ROUTE AND RESIDENCE. 3

selves, and followed merrily in our wake. It

was remarkable how persistent they were in

their attentions throughout the voyage : the
last thing at night and the first thing in the
morning, there they were astern of us, steadily

pursuing the and keeping a sharp look-

ship,

out on the cook's mate. We passed between

the Balearic Isles at mid-day on Sunday; but
they, looking neither to the right hand nor to

the left, held on their course with us straight

for Algiers, and only parted company just as
the good ship approached her moorings. There
could be no mistake about the birds, for one
had a broken feather in his right wing, while

the plumage of a second was white and

patriarchal ; he looked a very old gull indeed,
and probably knew every line of the Mes-

sageries Imperiales as well as the most ex-

perienced pilot attached to that service.
The passengers on board were not conscious
of any improvement in the temperature until
we approached the shores of Africa : but as we
drew near to Algiers it was evident from the
shawls and wraps which lay neglected on the
benches that they, at all events, were not in the
same request as they were when we quitted
10 ALGIERS IN 1857.

Marseilles. The Little Atlas and Jugurthine

^lountains were covered with snow ; but, being
at such a distance, the coldwinds that blew
from them to us were agreeably tempered by
the hot sun ere they reached the sea and a :

pleasant feeling it was to sit on the deck in

mid-Avinter, and luxuriate in a climate neither

too hot to be oppressive, nor cold enough to
cause discomfort to the most sensitive skin.
The last convulsive strokes of tlie engine had
scarcely ceased to vibrate, ere the bulwarks
were beset with a swarm of importunate Moors,
craving a fare for their boats.
Their muscular
and brawny hmbs, unshackled by bandages in
the form of dress, reminded us strongly of old
Charon, as we used to see him in the Pantheon
of our early days : but these ]\foors gave us
proof,by their merciless extortion, that they
were no kin to the honest ferryman of the
Styx though, it is true, his task was a lighter
;

one, inasmuch as he wafted over the spirit

only, while here the body and baggage of the
living man were the material weight requiring
deportation ashore.
The fair city of Algiers stands high and
erect above the sea, and seems to preside over
 ROUTE AND RESIDENCE. 11

it, in all its variations of peace and agitation,

as the mighty Deys of old presided o'er the

restless and turbulent subjects within her

walls : the sea was not more uncontrollable
than were the wills of the desperate men
who erewhile inhabited this beautiful city.

White, glistening white is she, from the Casbah

that crowns the heights to the sea that ripples
at her feet. But white as she is, blood enough
has been spilled within her walls to stain the
whole city blood-red, after the colour of that
flag which rendered the pirates of Algiers
dreaded and accursed throughout the civilised

world.
Our baggage at the Douanerie proved no
impediment on this occasion : coming from
France with passports en regie, no examina-
tion was thought necessary, and we were
passed at once into the hands of the ruthless
Moors, who waited at the doors to fight for
our luo:o:a2:e, and then shoulder it to our re-

spective quarters. The Hotel d'Orient stands

in front of the Grande Place, and, from its
airy situation and commanding view of the
sea, thither we first bent our steps and in-

quired for rooms. After ascending three

12 ALGIERS IN 1857.

flights of stairs, floored with tiles and very

slippery, we were shown two apartments of
small dimensions, for which three francs each
per day were demanded ; and these being the
only vacant rooms in the house, we declined
occupying them, on account of their inconve-
nient height. We then tried the H6tel de la

Regence *, also in the Grande Place : a hand-

some fountain playing in front, and a grove
of orange trees, on which the ripe fruit was
still hanging, and under the shade of which
venerable Moors and long-bearded Turks
were calmly smoking on rustic benches, com-
bined to invite the travellers to repose. Here,
again, rooms on the second etage, up fifty

weary steps, at three francs each, were our

Hobson's choice. For pensi07i, in the salon,
which included breakfast at ten and dinner
at six, with lialf a bottle of very ordinary
wine at each meal, a charge of seven francs

* Besides the Holds d'Orient and la Kt'gence, the

Hotels de Paris, in tlie Rue Bab-el-Oued, and de Rouen,

in the Rue afford excellent accom-

des Trois-Couleurs,
modation: the former of the two was especially fre-
quented by English baclielors, and its situation is better
than that of the Hotel de Rouen.
 ROUTE AND RESIDENCE. 13

was made for each person : then fire, bougies,

service, tea, coffee, and even hot water, were
charged extra. Thus, all complete, the ex-
pense of a visitor at this hotel would be about
fourteen francs a day, or one hundred a week.
A friend of ours staying at the Regence, Avith
his lady and maid, and a child about six years
old, occupied three good rooms on the first

etage, for which, with board, he paid no

less than 1200 francs, or 48^., a month. In
a few weeks, however, after our arrival, he
changed his quarters, took a suite of commo-
dious and excellent apartments in a private
house in the Rue de la Marine, for which he
paid 300 francs a month ; then his pension —
twelve different dishes at each meal — was sup-
plied to him from a neighbouring inn, the
Hotel de I'Europe, at another 300 francsby ;

which arrangement not only did he save one

half of his money, but he really obtained
double the comfort.
The constant ebb and flow in the tide of
visitors created so unceasing a disquietude at
the Regence, added to the fifty steps aforesaid,
and the dust of an adjoining Moorish house
then under process of demolition, that it soon
14 ALGIERS IN 1857.

became unbearable to an invalid requiring

peace and repose. Consequently we deter-
mined to leave, and enter into private lodgings.
Of these there was a goodly choice, notwith-

standing the assertion of the host and hostess

that such accommodation was not to be found
in the city. It may be the case in England,
but it certainly is so on the Continent, when
you rely solely on the information of others
with respect to your own wants, it rarely
happens that you get them satisfactorily sup-

plied. We found, on investigating for our-

selves, that lodgings at Algiers were as good,
commodious, and reasonable in price as in
provincial French towns in general. Tlie
ladies, however, who let lodgings do not un-
frequently belong to a class of which it is

well to beware. Either they are put in by

wealthy Jews, to manage and underlet the
rooms ; or they have been the mistresses of
officers, disinclined or too poor to marry, who,
by way of disentanglement, portion them off with
a furnished house, to provide for themselves.
It is always advisable in making terms with
the "bourgeoise" to commit them to paper,
as a contract and inventory signed by both
OUR OWN STREET _ RUE D'ORLEAHS
 ROUTE AND RESIDENCE. 15

parties will frequently be found a convenient

safeguard. But we had no reason to complain
of our bourgeoise ; on the contrary, durir.g
the three months we occupied her appartments,
it is pleasant to mention that we always found
her obliging, complaisant, and most faithful to
her engagement. The only grievance * of
which we had to complain was one of almost
universal prevalence in Algiers: there were
forty-eight stone steps — a sort of fixed tread-
mill — up to our apartments on the second etage.
The in which we were located was
street

called Rue d'Orleans, and had the advantage

of being among the few streets in the French
quarter of the city which did not admit of the
passage of carriages through it. So narrow
was the way, and so high were the buildings,
that the morning sun only peeped in just to
dry the dews of night, and give a healthful
character to the street.

*
Should mosquitoes be found troublesome, a few
sprigs of wormwood (absinthe) placed about his pillow
will generally protect the sleeper from their attacks.
Should this be insufficient, let him rub the wormwood
gently over his forehead and wrists the last thing at night;
and then neither they nor other noxious insects will take
a fancy to him.
16 ALGIERS IN 1857.

For two rooms, comfortably furnished but

of small dimensions, with a yet smaller kitchen,
we paid sixty francs a month ; for which sum,
in advance, linen, crockery, cooking, and at-

tendance were included. At first it was no

small amusement to pick up an Arab basket-
boy and go a marketing but as the weather
;

grew warmer it became a great bore to descend

a steep hill and flights of steps innumerable
to the fish-market, and then to face about and
work up again. The labour served daily to
recal the Sibyl's Avarning to the hero of old ;

while the fish venders, in person and practice,

helped to confirm the impression that one had
paid a hasty visit to the inhabitants of a worse
world than our own. JMahonese, Maltese,
Neapolitans and Spaniards, — Jews, Turks,
heretics, and infidels, — it is hard to conceive
a more villanous set of visages than they pos-
sessed ! AVhen the poet described the Cyclops
as one-eyed monsters to be found on the coast
of Sicily, he certainly must have crossed the
water and taken a peep at the fish-market of
Algiers. Every other man was " speechless
in one eye " —
a kind of Monops who stared at
you as if you were Cutis and he Polyplicmus
 ;

ROUTE AND RESIDENCE. 17

himself. But the fish they sold was good and

cheap ; that is to say, cheap if you bought it

at half the price they asked for it, and good if

you visited the market at the right time : for

instance, weather permitting, a pair of soles
a foot lono; mio^ht be bousjht for one franc : a
John-dory (St. Pierre), large enough for four
persons, at ten sous ; small red mullet (rouget)
at a sou each ; and sardines, fresh and de-
licious, at three sous a pound : besides, there
were whiting, herring, mackerel, turbot, white-
bait and flying-fish. Then, in the vegetable
market, green peas were to be had all the
winter; wild asparagus and new potatoes in
February, and Alpine strawberries in the
month of March; besides all the vegetables
and many more than we have in England, in
great profusion and excellence. Game of al-

most every kind, from a quail to a wild boar,

found its way to Algiers throughout the year
if it Avas not exposed in market it was always
to be purchased from the Arab dealers, malgre
the game laws and the cloture de chasse.
In consequence of the long and unusual rain
which fell during the autumn of 1856, and the
total want of shelter among the pastoral Arabs
c
18 ALGIERS IN 1857.

and colonists, no less than 600,000 head of

cattle perished in the interior : the price of meat
was therefore much higher than it had hitherto
been, but the quality was of an average cha-
racter. With such materials, and the aid of
the finest fruit, and excellent wine produced in
the country or derived from France and Spain,
no hon-vivant need despair of obtaining at
Algiers the gratification of his utmost desire.
But the invalid would do well to take from
England a small stock of black tea, groats,
arrowroot, castor oil, and cod-liver oil, if re-
quired. The tea sold at Algiers at sixteen
francs a pound is wretched stufi^; groats and
arrowroot are not obtainable at any price
the cod-liver oil is undrinkable ; and the castor
oil is frequently a vile compound of olive and
croton oil, a mixture, it need scarcely be said,

not only not serviceable, but highly injurious

to the human stomach. Coffee, as prepared

by the native Moors, is excellent: the berry is

pounded in enormous mortars, and thus yields
an aroma that is not found in the cafe noir of
the French. Cafes maures abound throughout
the city, and a cup of delicious coffee, with
sugar, is always procurable at a moment's
 ROUTE AND RESIDENCE. 11)

notice for one sou ; for which small sum it is

also brought, if required, to j'our private rooms.

In this climate a cup of coifee at noon is as

necessary for the stomach as a flannel belt or
the silken cincture which is so universally
worn by the natives. By taking a little
trouble and giving orders beforehand, good
cow's milk might be procured at eight sous a
quart ; but the supply of goat's milk, fresh,
regular, and abundant, was always obtainable
at your veiy doors. Large flocks of goats,
their noses muzzled and their udders almost
trailing the ground, were driven in from the
heights at daybreak ; while the tinkling bells,

appended to their necks, gave notice to the

householders that they must be quick in draw-
ing their daily supply of milk ere the flock
passed onwards to a different quarter of the
town. Pure and nutritious was the milk, and
generally sweet though it did happen some-
;

times that was tainted by some unsavoury

it

shrub on which the animal had browsed, and

a kind of turnipy flavour was imparted to it,

such as we occasionally find in the milk of our

own stalled cows. From three to five in the
morning, the Arab scavengers swept the streets,
 20 ALGIERS IN 1857.

and carried off the refuse of the cit}^ on their

unshod and noiseless donkeys. Thus, when
the world was astir, nothing that could offend
the eye or nose of the most sensitive person
ever appeared, even in the most unfrequented
streets : in fact, what witli drains, fountains,
scavengers, and the natural delicacy of the
Moorish population, no city ever presented a
cleaner appearance, —a feature by no means
remarkahle in the provincial towns of the Con-
tinent. It is quite sufficient internal evidence
against Homer that he never visited Al^-iers
as it now is, or he would not have foiled to
give it the happy distinction it so well deserves,
that of " The well-scavenged city."
The town of Algiers has a population of
70,000, and stands against a precipitous hill
in the form of an equilateral triangle, the base
of which rests on the sea, while the apex is

formed by the Casbah, the ancient fortress of

the Deys. The lower half, with the exception
of two grand mosques, consists of wharfs,
warehouses, govcnnnent houses, squares, and
streets, principally built and occupied by the
French ;
while the upper half is almost ex-
clusively Moorish, both in building and popu-
 ROUTE AND RESIDENCE. 21

lation. The Place Roy ale covers more than

two acres of ground in the centre of the city,
and is adorned with orange and lime trees, a
pleasant fountain, and a fine equestrian statue
of the unfortunate Duke of Orleans. Two
laro;e streets, called Bab-el-oued and Bab-
azoun, running north and south, intersect

the city ; and were it not that, as a thorough-

fare for carriages and general traffic, they are
somewhat narrow and confined, nothing could
be more convenient than the colonnades by
which they are flanked so that, let the :

weather be fair or foul, rain or sunshine, there

the invalid may always have a pleasant pro-

menade, with shade or shelter, from one end
of Alo-iers to the other. There is also an ex-
position of native industry and produce, a
museum, a Koman Catholic and a French
Protestant church, a Jews' synagogue, and
the hano-ino- o-ardens of Mareno'o, in which the
baby and invalid portion of the community do
largely preponderate. But the especial in-
terest of the visitor will be directed to the
Moorish town : the square, substantial, flat-

roofed houses, standing one above the other

in irregular succession ; the peep-holes, meant
c 3
22 ALGIERS IN 1857.

for windows, but especially intended to ex-

clude inquisitive eyes, fortified with strong
iron grating in lieu of glass, resemble nothing
so much as domestic prisons, in which, while
the corsair traversed the seas in search of
prey, he locked up his ladies, to guard them
from harm, and to keep from his own sus-
ceptible bosom the demon of jealousy. At
all events, those iron bars, and that gloomy
grating over ever}^ aperture in the dead walls,
look ominous, and are suggestive of many a
romantic love adventure and many a tragic
scene. The terrace of the house, that is to
say, the flat roof, is the exclusive domain of
the ladies : here, sportive and artless as chil-

dren, and loosely clad in gauzy and light

attire, they expect not, and they get not, the
intrusion of man. But, for some time after
the French had taken the city and established
themselves in it, and before they were aware
of the full extent of that seclusion to which
the Moorish ladies were condemned, or, gal-
lant and gay, and as conquerors disregarding
a prejudice that confined such fair women to
such foul tliraldom, they were rash enough
occasionally to mount on the roof of an un-
 ROUTE AND RESIDENCE. 23

occupied house, and, with telescope in hand,

to survey deliberately the dark-eyed beauties
as they watered their roses, or sat enjoying
the soft sea-breeze of their charming climate.
The act proved a fatal one to many a brave
young officer of the French army the crack
:

of the rifle was heard, and the victim was seen

to topple headlong on the terrace ; but none
ever knew who drew the deadly trigger nor
who directed the unerring ball. A peep at a
fair Mauresque was held to be poor compen-
sation for so tremendous a risk; so, for the
time, the sport was abandoned.

c 4
24 ALGIERS IN 1857.

CHAP. 11.

CLIMATE. AIR. — WATER. — COUNTRY.

About 10 morning of the 12th
o'clock on the
of February, 1857, Avhen the weather in Eng-
land was probably " as usual," " first it —
blew, and then it snew, and then it friz, and
then it thew, and then it friz again," — a party
of six English gentlemen and three ladies sat
or sauntered under the shade of the orange-
trees in the Grande Place at Algiers, discussing

the merits and demerits of the climate. At

that hour the heat of the sun was almost
oppressive ;
parasols and umbrellas vrere re-
quired to aid the scanty and insufficient shade
afforded by tlie trees; wliile, at the same time,
contradictory though it appear, a cold air
descended from the hills, and brought an oc-

casional " creep " over the frame of the as yet

unacclimatised stranger. The opinion of the
 :

CLIMATE, ETC. 25

party on the climate seemed to be one on

which all agreed to differ. Even the Earl of
S. and his lady were not exceptions : both
were charmed with a climate in which they
took plenty of exercise; they ate well, slept
well, and enjoyed, with thankfulness, the bless-
ings of life. But it should be added, that
both were healthy, sound, strong, temperate
people ; they brought no ills with them, and,
with moderation and care, they anticipated
none.
" I'll tell you what," said Lord S. in his
plain and honest manner, " I find the air of

Alojiers so bracino; and tonic that, if I do not

check mj'self, I eat more than is good for me
as it is, I seldom take more than one meal a
day, and I do very well upon that."
" That is its greatest objection," said his
lady ;
" the air is too tonic ; for, if you have
any predisposition to sore throat or tic-do-

loureux, it soon brings matters to a crisis : a

servant at the Hotel d'Orient died in twelve
hours from quinsy, induced and aggravated
by the exciting nature of the air." A York-
shire gentleman from Holderness, in the ex-
pression of whose countenance pulmonic suf-
 !^6 ALGIERS IN 1857.

fering might be traced, dissented in toto from

this opinion. " I think," said he, " I never
was in so vile a place ; I have no appetite, and
no energy for anything : the dampness of the
airwhen the sun is not shining, and the dust
when it is, makes me cough from morning to
night I'll not lose a day in getting
: away
from so uncomfortable a climate." Within
ten days from that date he gave proof of his
sincerity by taking ship for Madeira; but,
whether he there found the relief which was
the object of his search, is a matter of
doubt :

" Cceluni, non animuni mutant, qui trans mare currunt."

The rest of the party consisted of Mr. D,,

alsofrom the North of England, and another
Mr, D., who, to distinguish him from the
former, received the title of ^'
the Marabout,"
that being the appellation of a Mahometan
priest, and he being the honorary officiatino"

minister to the English residents at Algiers.

The former was surnamed " the Profane ;"
not, poor fellow, tliat he was a worse Christian
than his reverend namesake, but partly be-
cause in conversation he was a sceptic on
 CLIMATE, ETC. 27

every proposition of which he was not the

originator, and partly for the sake of anti-
thesis. Then there was Mrs. D., the Mara-
bout's lady, jMr. R., a barrister, Mr. E. and
Lady S. Y. H. The two latter were un-
usually clever, well-informed, observant people;
their opinion, therefore, on the climate of
Algiers was entitled to due weight. And
what was their opinion ? on the whole it was
adverse to Alo-iers ! Nevertheless, the g-entle-
man's verdict only extended to the ill effects

of the climate on infants, Avhile the lady's was

neither qualified nor exceptional. The lady
maintained that the air wanted that soft

soothing property so agreeable and so essential

to affected lungs ; that it possessed not the
same healing influence for which Madeira is

remarkable : while her husband, with better

reason, considered that it was at once soft and
bracing, appetising and restoring ; and, there-
fore, especially suitable to weakness of the
chest, and, indeed, to most cases of pulmonary
disease. The Marabout's lady, whose chest
was pronounced to be in a very delicate con-
dition, was then asked for her opinion ; and
her answer, given with great earnestness and
28 ALGIEKS IN 1867.

truth, was thus expressed :

" I feel," she said,
" when I breathe the air, as if oil were poured
upon my lungs
;
" a judgment which went far
to settle the question, were it not that " the
Profane " muttered aloud, " I shall eat my
peck of dust before I get out of this place : I'll

go to Australia next year ; there are no roads

there, and no deserts, consequently no dust."
Heavy and long-continued rain in the au-
tumn had caused this to be, what the French
very properly called it, an exceptional season
indeed, notwithstanding the rapid absorption
of the rain, to this cause was ascribed the low
and unequal temperature, which so commonly
prevailed even in fine weather : an increase of
rain had produced an increase of evaporation.
Meteorologists and some of the oldest settlers
remark that the cultivation of the land, now
so assiduously managed, is followed by a fall

of rain more copious than in former years;

that the ])lantations and gardens, replete with
vegetable life, attract and obtain a larger
supply of water tlian was required by the un-
broken and virgin soil. Tlierc is certainly
trutli in this observation ; for we know that
in our own colonics in North America small
 CLIMATE, ETC. 29

lakes have been lowered, and even exhausted,

by cutting down the forests by which they
were surrounded, and by whose evaporating
influence they had been supplied.
Exposure to the cold mists of night should
be especially avoided for no person whose
;

respiratory organs are weak can venture to

inhale the night air, in this or any other
climate, without inj^uy. To be in at sunset,
and not out till at least two hours after sun-
rise, is a good general rule for all invalids to
follow at Alo;iers. The Arab basks on the
ground with impunity under a fierce mid-day
sun : but if an En2:lishman were incautious
enough to do so, he would probably catch the
African fever ;
— at all events, as a stranger,

and until he is thoroughly acclimatised, he

should be careful not to take liberties which
are only permitted to old friends. But, be-
sides the acclimatisation, the Englishman is

very apt to think he cannot be too thinly clad,

indulges in duck pantaloons and light venti-
lating hats ; while the Arab is always swathed
in warm woollen attire, and carries many a
yard of coarse camel's-hair rope, wound in the

form of a turban, round his fine and noble

30 ALGIERS IN 1857.

figure-head. Such a dress is protection at

once against heat and cold, and, witliout doubt,

was suggested originally by the exigencies of

the climate.
It is a significant fact that consumption is

comparatively uidaiown amongst the Arabs.

Exposed as they are by day to the heat of a
burning sun, and by night to the fogs of the
Metidja or to the chilling winds of the snow-
capped Djurdjura, subject to all the vicissi-
tudes of a wandering wild life, houseless,
comfortless, not only supporting existence, but
flourishing, on fare that would starve a Dart-
moor crow, it does seem remarkable that,
notwithstanding these privations, they should
escape a scourge that devastates so large
and so fair a portion of the human race
whereas, their neighbours of the city, the
Moors, the Jews, and the Turks of Algiers,
engaged in embroidery and sedentary pursuits,
well housed, well fed, and enjoying the ad-
vantages of a climate in which frost never
frets the most delicate flower, witlier under
the influence of consumption, and die by
dozens annually. Fresh air is of course the

secret ; it is, indeed, " the breath of life," — as

 CLIMATE, ETC. 31

with the Arab, so with the inhabitants of

Russia, Sweden, and Norway, who are said to
enjoy from their out-of-door habits a hke im-
munity, — so that, whatever the climate may
be, it is clear that consumption is not ori-

ginated by any extreme or inequality of at-

mospherical variation. England and Holland
are aiFected neither by the cold of Russia nor
by the heat of Algiers, and yet they are the
greatest sufferers.
It is not our object, nor do we presume to
write a medical treatise on consumption ; we
leave that to the many able men who are es-
pecially educated and qualified for the task.
But we venture, as the narrative advances, to
offer, in irregular fashion, a little non-pro-
fessional advice, which, if it be good, may be
treated as good advice generally is treated,
that is, not followed ; but if bad, then rejected
altogether. The father of a family in which
hereditary taint is known or even suspected
to exist, would be subject, in every one's opi-
nion, to very grave imputation, if he permitted
his children to adopt sedentary professions, or
to acquire accomplishments at the expense of
fresh air. Let him turn them out of doors to
32 ALGIERS IN 1857.

gain their bread by the sweat of their brow,

rather than bind them to the desk, the bar, or
the Church. Writing, studying, painting,
tailoring, and shoeraaking, without much
out-of-door exercise, are destructive occupa-
tions, as certain to vitiate the blood and to
create tuberculous matter in hereditary sub-
jects, as a field sown with tares is sure to
produce the evil weed. Neither let mothers
permit their growing daughters, for the sake
of fashion, to compress their chests with un-
yielding bandages which prevent the due ex-
pansion of the lungs, and generate disease, if

it does not already exist there. AVhere there

is a taint in the blood, mothers must be mad
to permit it. Why, in England alone, in 1838,

no less than 31,090 English women died of

consumption —
a mortality awfully dispropor-
tionate to that of the men, and attributable in

no small degree, according to the opinion of

many able men, to the evil of busks and tight
corsettes.
But we have wandered from our legitimate
subject. To judge of the temperature of Al-
giersby that of the Avinter of 1856 and 1857
would be no fair criterion, for it has been
 CLDIATE, ETC. 33

already said, that unusual rain characterised

the season from the montli of November to
January; still, notwithstanding this adverse
sample of weather, there was but one of the
party, of which we have given a slight sketch,
who, on leaving the country, did not admit
that the condition of his health had been im-
proved by a residence at Algiers. It is an
observable feature of the climate, that imme-
diately after rain has fallen, evaporation takes
place rapidly, and the air at once becomes re-
markably dry, bracing, and enjoj'able. When
the sirocco wind blows from tlie desert, wdiich
is of unfrequent occurrence, a certain amount
of depression and languor is always felt by

the invalid ; but the high chain of mountains

which intervene between the town of Algiers
and the desert, and which in winter are usually
covered with snow, screens and tempers it so
pleasantly, that no evil effects whatever are
felt by the general population. The east
wind is rarely complained, of by invalids ; and
of the other winds the north-west is held to be
the most objectionable, as, in Arab language,
" it rushes like a wild horse," and brino-s with
it storms of rain and uncomfortable weather.
D
 34 ALGIERS IN 1857.

room without fire, fronting the south,

In a
and liaving the windows generally open dur-
ing the day, the temperature throughout the
months of February and March averaged 64°
while during the three previous months it was
63-8 55° being the lowest range from eight
;

in themorning to six o'clock at nidit.

The well-water of Algiers is tolerably good
and perfectly Avholesome but when boiled for
;

tea it leaves a thick sediment in the kettle,

which is, doubtless, better there than in the
stomach. By way of correcting or improving
it, the medical men of the town generally re-
commend the addition of a little wine or
brandy, Avhen it is intended for table use. A
Mahonese whose farm we visited in
settler,

the country, assured us he had been sixteen

years in Algiers, and had never yet tasted a
drop of the water ;
yet he was a temperate,
industrious man, but feared to swallow the
minute leeches with which he said the African
waters abounded. An Arab, however, Avill
lie down and drink like a horse from pools the
muddy w.-itcr of whicli a horse would not
trouble himself to disturb; and apparently he
does it with impunity.
 MEDICAL PRACTITIONERS. 35

The medical men of Algiers, it will be ne-

cessary to add, are in no respect inferior to
the first men of France in point of education
and professional skill. As to their respective
merits, however, a divided opinion existed
among the English residents on this as
on the subject of climate. Dr. Bonello, the
head of the Moorish hospital, was preferred
by some, Leonard and Foley by others, while
Dr. Bertram of the military hospital had his
own especial admirers. The customary fee
from an Englishman is five francs a visit, and
ten if called in the night ; and, as the tariff
for a Frenchman is three and five, the above
is considered handsome payment. Thus, as
the French doctors dispense no medicine, the
patient has the means of knowing to a frac-
tion what he has to pay, without imposing on
himself the disao^reeable alternative of askinof
the question. If the question Avere asked to
which of the fore-named practitioners, in a
case of life and death, we should give the
preference, the answer would be, without hesi-
tation, " Bonello for our money."
The chemists are not so easily disposed of;
we were all of one mind on that subject. Ko
36 ALGIERS IN 1857.

English prescription, transposed into the best

pharmaceutical French, was ever made up to
the satisfaction of the Englishman ; that is to
say, the medicine was totally dissimilar in
taste and c-ffect from what he had been accus-
tomed to receive from his English chemist.
The charge, too, for the most trifling drug was
preposterously large. Those of the residents
who were homoeopaths chuckled at the sup-
posed imposition ; while the discontent of the
regulars burst forth in loud and angry ex-
pressions. At length a plan was hit upon by
which a tolerably foir return was obtained for
your money ; the customer walked into the
shop and simply asked for so many sous' worth
of what he required ; then, if the quantity
were not enough, an additional expenditure of
sundry sous was of course necessary ; but, if
at first you had a reasonable notion of the
value of the drug, and put down 3'our money
accordingly, generally speaking, the justice
with whicli you were served Avas not altogether
unbearable. But in the case of a prescription

you were wholly at their mercy ; then, indeed,

they dispensed the medicine and the justice of
tlie cliarge with very uneven hands. For a
 ;

EXORBITANT CHAEGE FOR MEDICINE. 37

simple aperient draught, composed of magnesia

and lemon-juice, we have known three francs
demanded on a second
; occasion, the customer
walked into the shop, laid two francs on the
counter, and asked for a similar dose, which
was immediately prepared and given to him
and on a third occasion he put down one franc,

and was again supplied with the same dose

without comment, the pharmacien merely
shrugging his shoulders and sweeping the
money into his till — " ex uno disce omnes ;"

but if an exception can be made, it certainly

is in favour of M. Siraonet, in the Rue de la

Marine, in whose shop, we will merely add, the

above transaction did not take place. This is

hypothetical language, and reminds us of the

wonderful use of that figure by an old incum-
bent in the diocese of Llandaff. " I wish," said

he to the witty and benevolent first Dean of

Llandaff, who had walked some miles from
kindness to pay him a morning visit, " I wish,

Mr. Dean, that I had a biscuit in the house to

offer you, for then you might be induced to
take a glass of wine." This was the nearest
approach to hospitality of which his soul was
capable.
u 3
38 ALGIERS IN 1857.

To the Earl of S. and Mr. V. H., whom

we shall take the liberty of calling Mr.
Vernon, as he clubbed " the Marabout " and
"the Profane" with their titles, belongs the
credit of originating the reo^ular celebration of
Divine Service on the Sabbath Day. At first

the residents were invited to meet in a large

room in the occupation of Mr. Yernon at the
Hotel de la Regence ; but, as the congregation
increased, steps were taken to ensure greater
accommodation. At that time, at least four
or five clergymen of the Church of England
were sojourning at Algiers, but with the ex-
ception of "the Marabout," tlie whole were
invalids, suffering from throat or chest com-
plaints. Accordingly, whether he volunteered
or whether he was requested by Mr. Vernon
to officiate, certain it is, tliat his gratuitous
services were given most cordially ; and, with
the kind consent of ^I. Coijne, the French
Protestant minister, tlie use of a convenient
chapel was forthwith placed at his disposal.
The time of service was 10 a.m., an early
hour for the invalids, but still it was the only
hour at which tlie chapel was disengaged.
Nevertheless, Sunday after Sunday, it was a
 "

PROTESTANT CHAPEL. 39

pleasing sight to witness the punctuality with

whicli every member of that congregation
attended at the House of God ; sick or healthy,
weak or strong, every soul was there to a
minute. Then the devotion and earnestness
with which they gave heed to the preacher's
words, or, with him, offered up their prayers
to the Throne of Grace, made one hope and
believe that, for His sake, in whom was no
sin, the imperfect sacrifice was not an unac-
ceptable one ; and that his preaching and their
hearing were not in vain, " The Marabout's "
sermons had especial reference to the inci-

dents of the week, and to the faithful manner

in which the Mahometans observed the Pro-
phet's law, even as the Rechabites had ob-
served that of their father. In contrasting
this observance with that of his OAvn con-
gregation, he warned them that the brighter
light of the Christian would only add to his
condemnation, if he was not careful to walk
according to that light. " Woe unto thee,
Chorazin ! Woe unto thee, Bethsaida !

The following story of a navy chaplain and

his official dilemma is perfectly true, and the

manner in which he extricated himself not a

D 4
40 ALGIERS IX 1857.

little ingenious. Jack Vyvyan went to sea

with a short stock of sermons ; he had left his

chest ashore, and, in flict, had only one ser-

mon, with a lucky text, in the tail-pocket of

his coat, whicli fortunately he brought on

board with him. AVe say fortunately, for if

Yyvyan had been offered a mitre on condition

that he wrote a sermon, his chance of pro-
motion would have been remote indeed.
Well, nothing daunted, he read the prayers
and preached the aforesaid sermon on seven
Sundays in succession ; on the eighth, the cap-
tain sent for him to his cabin, and, with a

kind remonstrance, requested that Mr. Yyvyan

would be good enough to give them something
fresh on that day. " I am very sorry. Sir," he
said, " not to comply with your request ; but
I have made it a principle through life alwaj^s
to conquer one vice before I attack another."
His text was, " Swear not at all."
 41

CHAP. III.

SUBURBS AND SCENERY. RIDES AND RECRE-

ATION. THE MONASTERY OF STAOUELT.

The immediate environs of Algiers are beau-

tiful beyond description: St. Eugene on one
side and Mustapha Superior on the other,
flank the city with villaand garden scenery,
such as we read of in fairy tales but seldom
see in reality. The surrounding hills on
either side slope graduall}^ to the blue water's
edge; and on every available plateau stands a
Moorish house, white and simple in itself,

but adorned by the most exquisite verdure.

Red geraniums in full bloom and beauty,
pomegranates and myrtles, orange and citron
bearing at once the fruit and the flower,
trees,

remind one of Aladdin's garden, in which

jewels depended from the bowers, and per-
fume filled the air. The very rocks are
42 ALGIERS IN 1857.

trellised with creepers in Nature's wildest

form ; while the vine, the fig, and the olive

tree attest the cultivating care ofman. Deep

ravines, work of earthquakes in former
the
ages, descend from the mountain top to its
base these are spangled by the star of Beth-
;

lehem, the asphodel and classic acanthus, a

beautiful genista, and other flowering shrubs,
in which the black-cap and the niglitingale
find a happy retreat, and sing alternately from
morning to night and night to morning ; —
"amant alterna camoenaj." Nor is the purling
brook and busy mill wanting to complete the
scene.
Some French General Wade has made
capital roads, in zigzag fashion, through these
beautiful valleys ; and great reason have we to
thank him, whoever he may be, for the many
pleasant exploratory rides and picnics wliich
we were enabled to enjoy through his instru-
mentality. " I think nauglit of a liorse that

kicks, if he only don't gib," said a Yorkshire-

man once in our hearing ; and if he had seen

two Arab steeds flinch from the collar (their

thin skins don't like the drudgery) and

back, in an omnibus filled with a party of
 :

SUBURBS AND SCENERY. 43

English ladies and gentlemen, to the very

edge of a precipice, he would have found
sympathetic opinions among that company
however, a passing Arab sprang from his

mule, put his foot on the hind wheel, and

prevented the catastrophe.
Lady S. Y. H. was an artist of uncommon
"
merit, and her sketches of " Le frais Vallon
and other places of interest, if she could ever

be induced to publish them, would be a great

treat to all who admire the picturesque and
the beautiful. Indeed, most of the English
ladies sketched admirably ; and so anxious
were they to carry home the striking features
of the country, that they never moved without
their sketch-books. This habit led Mrs. A., a
very agreeable French lady who was married
to an Englishman, and who talked our lan-
guage imperfectly, to say, "Why, all you
Enghsh ladies do design;" which, as many
a true word is spoken in jest, might have
been an awkward compliment.
When a lady pitches her camp-stool in
Algiers, it is the sio:nal for a crowd to collect
around her. On one occasion, the Marabout's
lady was busily engaged in taking the curious
44 ALGIERS IN 1857.

Moorish houses in the Kue Bciiali, the tops of

which lean against those on the opposite side,

by way of mutual support in case of earth-

quake, when a huge half Giaour half Turkish
face, peering over her shoulder, astonished the
crowd by saying aloud, " Ces Ingleses mar-
ques tout I'Alger," implying, no doubt, that
the ladies were politically employed for
some mysterious purpose, as he had observed
them repeatedly sketching the Casbah and the
ancient fortifications of the city. However,
his remark, if ill-naturedly meant, was only
followed by a good-humoured laugh and a
"bono Inglese!" from the Arab shoe-blacks
in the rear.

The vilWe of St. Eu2:ene stands about a

mile from Algiers, on tlie north side, and is

washed by the waters of the Mediterranean ;

the detached and overhanging villas, however,

extend almost to the heights of Boudjareah,
a distance of three miles from the city. The
situation is so delightful that English families
take houses and remain here during the whole
year. Refreshing breezes from the sea and
currents of air attracted by the ravines ren-
der the heat quite bearable, even in the
 SUBURBS AND SCENERY. 45

hottest The toil-worn citizen finds

summer.
in the bower-cafes of St. Eugene the same
kind of recreation that the Londoner finds at
Putney or Richmond only, in lieu of skittles
;

and porter, he gets his champoreau and pi-

quet : both blow their clouds ; but therein the

Aloferine
C has far the advantao;e,
CD
he indulo;es
CI I

in the finest Smyrna tobacco or excellent cigars

at one sou apiece, while the other has little

choice beyond bird's-eye, black shag, or the

vilest weeds.

Omnibuses, tolerably well horsed, are always

waiting in the Eue Babeloued to convey the
excursionist to St. Eugene, Point Pescade, or
wherever he chooses to order them. They
st^t at a moment's notice, and take the
chance of picking up passengers e?i route.

The fare to St. Eugene is only five sous, and

the Arab horses frequently gallop at
little

speed over the whole distance. The ready

and available accommodation afixDrded by these
voitures to all classes is worthy of notice, and
the visitor has only to cast his eye on the
strange and picturesque assemblage which
they sometimes contain to be assured of their
general popularity. For instance : — on the
46 ALGIERS IN 1857.

box in front may be seen the ]\Iahonese driver

with a nigger woman, wrapped in a blue bed-
gown, sitting erect by his side, and grinning
witli delight at the pace with wliich the steeds
are travelling ; while next to her is a Moorish
fisherman, witli a bamboo rod thirty feet long,
going to Point Pescade to entrap red mullet
and rock-whiting. The interior is not, as an
English omnibus would be, packed like a
barrel of sardines, but there is ample room
for all. A gay French lady, with a hoop d la
Pompadour^ sits comfortably by the side of
a Bedouin Arab in his solemn bornous, while
opposite to him is a fair Mauresque, whose
pair of briglit and beautiful eyes are alone
visible, but wliich, sliining like stars, are
quite sufficient to remind him of that heaven
which is promised to the faithful. Again, a
Turk, an Englishman, two officers of the Chas-
seurs d'xVfrique, and an ex-bedchamber lady
to one of the queens of England — still a re-
markably handsome and dignified specimen of
the English aristocracy, and once the greatest
beauty of her day — comprise a party which we
have not imagined but seen in an onmibus
at Algiers. And here it may be as well to
 RIDES AND RECREATION. 47

mention, that voitures capable of containing

four persons, with a pair of Arab horses, can
be hired at all times for two francs an hour,
and a good saddle-horse for four francs a ride,
or six francs a day for a journey. For the
conveyance of a party to a distance of eight
leagues, twenty English miles, and to return
with it on the same day, the charge for an
omnibus with three horses abreast is twenty
francs, which sum includes every expense.
Any dispute with a driver is disposed of in
the most summary manner by the Commis-
sary of Police, who, in a case of extortion or
impertinence, has the power to suspend liim
from his duties for a week or two ; and this
power is not unfrequently exercised by that
useful functionary. The process is a ver\^ sim-
ple one : — take your witness with you to the
Police Centrale, lodge your complaint, and you
may depend that justice will follow forthwith,
without any further trouble on your part.
It ensures wonderful civility towards the
public from a set of men who are notoriously
a difficult class to manao;e all over the world.
No one should be a week at Algiers without
mounting the hill to Boudjareah ; it is a short
 ;

48 ALGIERS IN 1857.

but charming ride for an afternoon, and pre-

sents the most extensive and the finest view
in Algeria. When the atmosphere is clear,

the whole distance of the Metidja plain, ninety

miles in length, is distinctly seen ; several of
the principal towns of the Province lying
beyond the plain, on the edge of the little

Atlas and the great Kabyle mountains ; Sidi

Ferruch, where the French first landed

Staoueli, where they fought their battle, and
where the Trappists' peaceful monastery is
now established; the line of march followed
by the victorious French army the ancient ;

Casbah, and the fair city at its feet, are all

visible to the naked eye. Then, if you turn
to seawards, there is the blue Mediterranean,
with Fort-de-l'Eau, Cape Matifoux, and other
objects of interest and beauty in the distance

The view must be seen to be appreciated,

for it is impossible for pen or pencil adequately
to describe it.

Close to the port of Bab-el-oued, on tlie

road to St. Eugene, are the hanging gardens

of Marengo. Gravelled terraces, raised one
above the other, the borders of which are
fringed with flowers or planted with the
 EIDES AND RKCREATION. 49

bel-ombre and other shade-^-ivins: trees, afford

an attractive promenade for the inhabitants

of Algiers. Being so contiguous to the city,

they are available on all occasions ; and those

who are incapable of going to a farther dis-
tance or bearing long exercise, are often able
to enjoy the refreshing sea-breeze and lovely
view obtainable from this pleasant retreat.
The gardens are furnished with benches, and
on Sunday evenings a large concourse of well-
dressed people "of every nation under hea-
ven " meet together to listen to the music of a
military band : and a more orderly and well-
conducted assembly it is difficult to conceive.
A queer old character, a sort of Jack-o'-the-
green, presides over a table of oranges and
sherbet, under the shade of a bel-ombre, and
acts as a kind of Cerberus to protect the fruit
and flowers from the youthful marauders who
frequent the garden. Within a few yards of
his stall he has his own pet border of early
flowers, and, if you desire a sprig of the same,
a sou for a cigar or two sous for a glass of
sherbet is always an effective sop for the
purpose. He literally lives under the bel-
ombre, and yet he cannot speak well of it:

E
50 ALGIERS IN 1857.

" This tree," said be, " is little better tban a

mushroom ; it was brought here from America,

and, like that country, in a few years it has
become what you see it, a little giant; the

timber is worthless, the fruit tasteless, and the

shade —bah — ! that does for hot weather ; but
the leaves are served up for spinach in every
hotel in Algiers ; and then when it arrives at

maturity it will decay like a pear : so the tree

is not to be trusted in any form." We once

knew a man mind was not
whose turn of
unlike that of the bel-ombrist he rode some ;

of the best horses in the AVest of England, and

rode them well too, but the better his horse
carried him the more he abused him to every-

body :
" I never rode a bigger brute; he'll do

to the end of the season, and then he goes."

Like Ulysses and his host —
"He ate his mutton, drank his wine,
And then he poked his eye out,"

On the south side of Algiers, in the centre

and deepest part of that beautiful bay, Mus-
tapha Superior and Inferior occupy a promi-
nent position the latter extends nearly from
;

the port of Babazoun to the distance of a

 !

RIDES AND KECREATION. 51

league from the city, and is composed of

streets, parades, shops, cafes, and drinking
houses of every description, built and inhabited
by the French. The plain of Mustapha is par-
ticularly well suited for cavalry purposes, and
here military evolutions are performed, recruits
drilled, and young horses trained without
cessation ; it is also used for races, and, if the

turf were better kept, it would be a remark-

ably fine course. The Arabs are devoted to

horse-racing ; and annually, by the aid of the
French government, a charming day's amuse-
ment is afi'orded to them and the public by the
exhibition of their favourite pastime. The
best horse wins here : a revival of the deyship
and the presentation of it to one of the Arab
riders would not bribe him to sell a race. So
the spectator, if he takes an interest in such
matters, may look on and admire the pictu-
resque figures standing erect in their em-
broidered and high-backed saddles, or straining
in their stirrups and urging their steeds on to
victory, with a conviction that no foul play
will diso-race the struo^orle and no book- work
interfere with the fair result of honest com-
petition. This is sport indeed
52 ALGIERS IN 1857.

The hill on which Mustapha Superior rests

describes a curvilinear sweep, after the form
of the bay; it overhangs the plain, and conse-
quently commands a noble view of the race-
course, the blue sea, and the distant mountains
of Kabylia : its situation is that of a perfect
amphitheatre ; mauresque mansions of con-
siderable size and great interior beaut}', afford

on these hills a cool summer retreat to the

wealthy citizens of Algiers. The Governor-
General, General Yussuf, and other high
officers in command, have also their country
seats in this favoured locality. To those who
desire a permanent dwelling-house, and who
intend to keep wliat is called a regular estab-
lishment, no situation could be more delightful,
none more desirable than that of upper i\Ius-

tapha. But if the means of doing so are not

at hand, or if a mere temporary residence is

only required, then the market and hotels are

too distant for convenience, and the visitor

would find himself better off in Algiers.

A party of English gentlemen, one of wdioni

was a bright luminary of the House of Com-
mons, J.B., took a mansion on a very elevated
spot in this district. The senator, however, un-
 RIDES AND RECREATION. 53

derstood less of domestic than political economy,

and was more at home in the management of
public business tlian in that of his own. The
dragoman, to whom they had intrusted the
charge of the home department, had studied
neither the laws of comfort nor finance ; at all
events, by abusing the one and not supplying
the other, he had not practised them to the
satisfaction of his employers. Heavy rain fell

in the late autumn of 1856 ; the house was

far from air-tight, au confraire, plenty of
oxygen was an object contemplated by its

structure ; and, consequently, in stormy

weather, the damp air whistled through it as
iliough it were a wind-mill, and the walls
reeked Avith moisture. The house was there-
fore abandoned, the dragoman dismissed, and
the party broke up in despair: one went into
a comfortable hotel in Algiers, while the
senator turned his back upon it and the
country, took sliip, and sailed for a happier
clime.
Although so contiguous to each other, there
is a great difference in the climate of the two
]\Iustaphas ; on the hill side the air is light
and invigorating, while that on the low ground,
E 3
 :

54 ALGIERS IN 1857.

especially near the sea-shore, is depressing and

unhealthy. Vegetation of a rank and marshy
character exhibits itself in every uncultivated
corner, and low fever is not of uncommon
occurrence. So well known is this to the
inhabitants of Algiers, that they who possess
houses in this locality prefer letting them at a
small rent to occupying them as sea-side or
summer residences. Tlie ground, however,
has not been much built upon, but is cul-
tivated by market gardeners, principally
]\Iahonese settlers ; and to their purpose, from
the rich alluvial nature of the soil and the
facilities of water, it is remarkably well suited.
In general, the vegetables produced here are
not only larger but of far better quality than
those of the same kind produced in England
artichokes, however, Avhich are extensively
grown, are an exception ; they are both less
in size and inferior in flavour to our arti-
chokes. Tlie Spaniards and French often eat
them uncooked, and seem to relish them much
in that crude and indigestible state.
Between ]\Iustapha and Hussein Dey, at a
distance of only three miles from Algiers, is
the famous Jardin d'Essai, established as a
 KIDES AND RECREATION. 55

trialgarden for the benefit of the colonists by

the French government, and now under the
able superintendence of M. Hardy ; as the
name implies, its object is to test the applica-
bility of the climate to those exotic plants
which are likely to be useful to the colony,
and to discover what soil and management
are best suited to their proper cultivation.
The inhabitants of Algiers are fortunate in
having so pleasant a lounge within such easy
reach of their thronged and busy city ;
peace-
ful, shady, and instructive, these gardens
present features of interest to every class of
visitors. The man of business jumps into an
omnibus at the porte of Babazoun in ;

twenty minutes he is sitting at the entrance

of the garden under some mighty plane-trees,
smoking his cigar and imbibing a cup of
Moorish coffee, and the furrow of care and
thought disappears from his brow. The man
of gay and idle habits finds at least innocent
recreation in these bowers, and is refreshed
by the change. The botanist has so extensive
a field of natural science before him, that he
may spend a life in it without exhausting its

resources. Lastly, the invalid will be amused,

E 4
56 ALGIERS IN 1857.

if not benefited, by a stroll among the curious

and beautiful flowers which abound in the
borders ; and will marvel at the industry and
science displayed by the director, who has
classified and described by its proper botanical
name every tree and plant throughout the
garden. A fine young avenue of date-palm
trees, with the fruit on the female tree in
various stages of advancement, is an object of
great attraction to the European visitor. The
wealth of the Arabs is gauged by these trees,

and according to the number possessed by a

tribe, so does it pay tribute to the government.
The dioecious nature of the date-palm is so
well understood by the Arabs of the desert,
tliat if the female is separated from the male
tree by a long distance, too long for the bees
to do the necessary work of impregnation,
tliey climb the trees and bear the pollen of the
otlier, and thus ensure
one to the flower of the
its fecundity.Not only is the date a most

nutritious and wholesome food for man, but it

will support and fatten camels and cattle of

every description ; the horse soon becomes

very fond of it. Tlie banana, which in hot
countries furnishes food to the greater part of
 • KIDES AND RECREATION. 57

mankind ; the Barbary medlar, a vast variety

of fruit and forest trees, India-rubber and
cork trees, at least thirty diiferent kinds of
cactus, canes, aloes, ixias, irises, and orchi-

daceous plants of surpassing beauty, astonish

and delight the beholder.
Several acres of ground are especially de-
voted to the cultivation of the cactus cochen-
illifera, on which the insect which constitutes
cochineal feeds and exists. It is planted in
long rows, at a distance of six feet apart,
and those rows on v/hich the insects swarm
are covered by matting to protect them from
bad weather ; when feeding upon the cactus-
leaf, the insects look like so many dried cur-

rants floured over, and ready for a mince-pie,

but if they were popped into it they would
probably be not so palatable. Already it has
been pretty well ascertained that the climate is

not adapted to the production of cochineal, so

Eno-land must o^et the colour for her " red
jackets" and "bit of pink" for the hunting-
field from some older colony. Soldiers under

punishment do the heavy labour of the garden,

new roads and public works are also construc-
ted by the same hands ; thus their penal exer-
58 ALGIERS IX 1857.

cise is turned to account, and moral as well

as material improvements are executed, not
only without expense, but with great advan-
tage, both to the country and the delinquents.
The Maison Carree is another object of in-

terest to the visitor at Algiers, and being only

at 3 leagues, or 7i- miles, distance, it is very ac-
cessible for a mornins: ride. A fine old Roman
bridge, firm as it was a thousand years ago,
crosses the rapid stream below this hamlet,
every house of which is an auberge ; and above
it stands a huge pile of fortified barracks, which
arenow used as a kind of county prison in
which Arabs alone are confined. The com-
mand of the river, as well as a complete view
of the Metidja plain, are the advantages which
this prison, or fort, or watchtower obtains from
the well-selected spot on which it has been
raised. Among the wayside conveniences of
the country may be mentioned the numbers
of capacious stone tanks, into which a cool
stream of well water is perpetually flowing,
Avliicli have been constructed by the French
throughout Algeria. There is one of large di-
mensions at the Maison Carree, and a pleasant
sight it is to see a company of travelling Arabs,
 RIDES AND RECREATION. 59

high-mounted on their camels, descend to re-

fresh themselves with this simple luxury.

No waterman ever pulled at a pot of Barclay
and Perkins' best London stout with a heartier
draught than the thirsty xVrab at these de-
licious fountains. To say nothing of the
comfort afforded to the public by their con-
struction, it was a stroke of strong political
wisdom which provided the Mahometan popu-
lation with abundant wells of water*, which

* " The official report of General Desvaux on the Ar-

tesian boi'ings executed in the Sahara of the Province of
Constantine in 1856-7 has just been published by the
'
Moniteur Algerien,' and is not without interest. A
civil engineer, a sergeant of Spahis, and a detachment
of soldiers of the Foreign Legion, suffice for the work,
which commenced early May, 1856, in an oasis of tlie
in
Oued-Eir. This was most successful. On the
first essay
19th of June a perfect river, yielding 4010 quarts of
water per minute, at a temperature of 21°, burst from
the bowels of the earth. The joy of the Arabs was in-
describable. The news of this miraculous gush of water,
so precious in the desert, spread rapidly through the
country. People came from afar to see the spring, to
which the Maraboots, with solemn ceremonies, gave the
name of the Fountain of Peace.' The soldiers who had
'

wrought the seeming miracle returned to Biscara without a

single sick man, although during the period of their labours
the centigrade thermometer had often marked 460 in the
shade. Two other borings were also successful, but the
60 ALGIERS IN 1857.

they consider as inclispensuble to the offices of

their religion as it is to the comfort and sup-

port of life.

Exactly twelve miles by land, eight miles by

water, and in front of Algiers, across the bay,

supply of water was much less abundant, the first of the

two wells, which received the name of ' Fountain of the
Benediction,' yielding only 35 quarts a minute from a
depth of 84 metres; the second 120 quarts at the depth
of 58 metres. The gratitude of the Arabs knew no
bounds, and they showed the most friendly feeling towards
the slender detachment of soldiers, who lived amongst
them forweeks and months together, at long distances
from the French garrisons. In the oasis of Sidi-Rached,
which was totally unproductive for want of water, an
Artesian well, known as the ' P^ountain of Gratitude,'
yields, at the depth of 54 metres, no less than 4300 quarts
of water per minute. When the shouts of the soldiers
announced the gush, the Arabs sprang in crowds to the
sjjot, laving themselves in the welcome abundance, into

which mothers dipped their children, while the old sheikh

fi'll upon his knees and wept, and returned thanks to
AUaii and tlie French. At Oum-'l'hiour, a well sunk to
the depth of 170 metres, and yielding 180 quarts a minute,
was at once taken as the centre of a settlementby a por-
tion of a previouslynomadic tribe. As soon as the water
appeared, they began the construction of a village, and
the plantation of 1200 date-trees, and entirely renounced
their wandering existence. According to General Des-
vaux'g report, these Artesian wells are likely to have a
most important influence on Arab life, and greatly to
subdue the roaming propensities of many of the tribes."
 RIDES AND RECREATIOX.

is situated the small Spanish village ofFort-de-

I'Eau. In the year 1850 a grant of twenty
acres of land, close upon the rock, and bristling
with brush-wood, was made to fifty Maho-
nese families, who undertook to build houses
for themselves, and to clear and cultivate the
land. All this has been admirably done by
the industrious and temperate settlers ; the
houses are models of neatness, while the land
smiles like a garden. One secret may be told
(pity it should be a secret) which has retarded
neither the work nor the welfare of this thri-
ving little community. Unlike the French
villages, where almost every house mounts the

sign of " debit de vins et liqueurs," at Fort-de-

TEau there is not a single auberge, not a
ruination-shop in the whole village. Birman-
dreis, Birkadem, Kouba, El-biar, Ben-aknoun,
Dely-Ibrahim, Cheragas and Staoueli, are all

within easy distance of the city, and are, most

of them, villages so picturesque and so in-
teresting that a ride to any of them is indeed
a charming day's recreation. Blidah, " the
beautiful," with its orange groves. Gorges de
la ChifFa, and magnificent vale and mountain
scenery, is beyond a day's work from Algiers ;
 62 ALGIERS IN 1857.

but every one who has seen it agrees with the

praise bestowed upon it by the Arab chief:
" Some call thee a city," said he, " but I call
thee a beautiful rose." A mere sketch of the
most attractive places within easy access of
Algiers is the object of our quill the sketch ;

would be incomplete, as well as rough, if a few

additional strokes, descriptive of Staoueli, were
omitted from the picture.

Staoueli.

At a distance of eighteen kilometres, or less

than twelve English miles from Algiers, on
the road to Koleah, stands the grand monastery
of La Trappe, consecrated in 1845, containing
ninety brethren of that society, and presided
over by P. Marie Frangois Regis, Abbe de
Staoueli. It is situated on a wide plain, on
which the palmetta grows in luxuriance, and
which, from its higli and airy elevation, would
be selected as the spot of all others where

rude health might be enjoyed. P>ut until it

was well drained by the indefatigable monks,

it was found to be far* otherwise ; miasmatic
 MONASTERY OF STAOU^LI. 63

vapours prevailed alarmingly, and these, aided

by the rigorous and self-denying diet of the
monks, carried them off in vast numbers.
At present, however, to judge by their ruddy
faces, and indeed by their own account of the
place, it is as healthy as any part of the
world.
The severity of the order of La Trappe is

too well known to need description ; still the

reality of their discipline was far exceeded by
the imaginary penance to which they were
subjected by the good people of Algiers. We
were gravely told that bread and water was
their sole diet ; that they scourged themselves
with whips and thorns in a frightful manner ;

that no woman was admitted within their

territory; and, finally, that they slept each
man in his own stone coffin at night; and
thus hoped by the pains of the body to
atone for the sins of the soul. The establish-
ment at Staoueli is sufficiently remarkable in
its features to require no surreptitious aid to
render it an object of the deepest interest to
every thinking mind ; and it is impossible for
any one to visit it without pleasure and ad-
vantage to himself, J\Ir. Vernon was good
 ;

64 ALGIERS IN 1857.

enough to propose that we should take the

Koleah diligence at six in the morning, and
spend the day together at Staoueli ; and this

led to a visit, the recollections of which it

gives us much happiness to record.

The monastery is a plain square building,
distinguished by no architectural pretension
whatever ; it has an open quadrangle in the
centre, wliich is ornamented by many curious
flowers, orange-trees in full bearing, and a
fountain of clear and beautiful water, in which
gold and silver fish flourish and sport in their
element. Spacious out-buildings, intended for
farm and other purposes, are attached to the

monastery ; while outside of these a high wall,

encompassing a hundred acres of garden, vine-
yard, orchards, and cemetery, surrounds the
home enclosure. Beyond this again the culti-

vated farm encircles the whole in a ring fence

by the produce of which the establishment is
maintained, and tlic simple wants of the
brotherhood amply supplied.
The monk who received us at the porter's

lodge, and who, as guest-master, alone spoke,

whispered a kind welcome, and invited us to

breakfast at the hour of eleven. At that
 ;

MONASTERY OF STAOUELI. 65

moment Mr. Yernon produced a beautiful

hoopoe which he had just shot ; the monk took
the dead bird gently in his hand, and kissiiig
it, said, in a feeling voice, " This at least was
innocent." The library, to which he at once
conducted us, was worthy of little notice;
it contained neither manuscripts nor books
of any especial merit : even Vernon's sharp
eye could discover nothing beyond a large
work on agriculture, which, from its well-
thumbed condition, seemed to be an object of
much interest to the brotherhood. The next
point was the chapel ; twenty monks were
here on their knees, praying or doing penance
for their sins ; never was devotion more fervent
or fixed than theirs appeared to be ; not an
eye was lifted nor a muscle moved to indicate
that our presence distracted their thoughts
body and soul were engaged together pro-
foundly in the great work of adoration. The
contemplation of this solemn scene has left its

impression on our memories ; and we pray for

abstraction in prayer like that of the monks
of Staoueli. A table of service, suspended on
a wall, showed what were the religious duties
appointed for each day in the week ; and then
66 ALGIERS IN 1857.

followed the names of the brethren who were

required to perform them ; thus, twenty were
marked to pray for the conversion of the Arabs
and all heretics ; fifteen to pray against swear-
ing and all other sins ; ten on purgatory, and
so forth. We then mounted to a long well-
ventilated dormitory ; and here we saAV not

the stone coffins referred to, but a number of

well-arranged pallets, each in its own little

compartment, with the name of the occupant

inscribed over the door.
The monks who were not marked for re-

ligious service were engaged in all kinds of

domestic and industrial labour ; some were

digging, others hoeing, ploughing, look-

ing after the oxen, working at the anvil,

mixing mortar, watching tlie corn, baking,

turning, and all other occupations which
served to support the temporal and natural
wants of the fraternity. A solemn stillness
pervaded the whole establishment; the very
bell sounded as if it was muffled ; the anvil
rang not but vibrated dully beneath the heavy
sledge of the Trappist ; our guide preceded
us in list shoes, and, although privileged to do
so, never spoke above a whisper. A handsome
 ;

MONASTERY OF STAOUELI. 67

and venerable monk, as he worked at his lathe

silently and incessantly, converting the shape-
less palinetta berry into a beautiful polished
bead, only smiled and shook his head good-
naturedly at the inquiries which, forgetting
his vows (a venial forgetfulness, if not an in-
tentional one), we occasionally put to hira.
Tlien, at parting, to show he was not vexed by
our curiosity, he extended his hand and pre-
sented us with many specimens of his exquisite
skill and labour.
Our curiosity as to the silent system, the
self- reformatory character of their penance,
and their monastic life in general, prompted
us to examine the expression of the monks'
faces, the title-page of the human heart. But
there we could trace none of the marks of care,
'
none of the turmoil of the world ; their mild
smiling countenances, as they nodded to us in
the midst of their work, and worked on, but
spoke never a word, indicated nothing but
rest and sweet contentment. They had been
doubtless men of like passions with ourselves
but unquestionably repentance had brought
peace, and peace had given joy to the face as
well as to the heart. Let us add our convic-
r2
68 ALGIERS IN 1857.

tion that it was that peace " which passeth all

understanding" which these men so unmis-

takeably enjoyed.
But breakfast Avas announced, and as Yernon
and the writer had taken a long walk, besides
their journey by diligence, they were both
sharpened for the work. Nothing could be
simpler than the table and its arrangements
for the monks' own breakfast ; a high table,
with its dais, alone marked the distinction
between the superior and the brethren. The
breakfast served to us was excellent ; every
dish was home-grown or home-made ; soup,
rice-porridge flavoured with savoury herbs,
an omelet, fried potatoes, cheese and butter,
than which we had tasted none so good since
we left our native hills ; with raishis, figs,

almonds, oranges, and sound wine of a Bor-

deaux character for dessert. During the
repast, our friendly guide stood at a kind of
sideboard, and read a long homily on the
hospitable duties of Christians in general and
guests in particular ; but we confess we were
too much occupied to pay proper attention
to its salutary injunctions. The room in which
we breakfasted was one which is always appro-
 MONASTERY OF STAOUELI. 69

priated to the use of strangers, while above it

were two or three comfortable bed-rooms, ex-

pressly prepared for the same hospitable purpose.
Our next object, after breakfast, was to look
over the farm, and to see how they practised
the doctrine taught by the big book in the
library. The crops of wheat were the most
favoured of the cereals, and were in strong and
promising condition but the seed had been
;

broad-cast, and, whether from rabbits or bad

sowing, presented a somewhat patchy appear-
ance. The barley was thin, and scarcely
covered the nakedness of the land ; but the
vines, which occupied at least forty acres,
seemed to be thriving, and, from the clean
and well-hoed furrows, gave every indication
of good management. The grape-blight, oidium
tuckeri, for which sulphur is proved to be a
specific, had committed no ravages here. The
artificial grass, for the land had not long been
"laid down," was excellent; the fences, how-
ever, were our especial admiration, and were
such as Capt. Lamb's old " Vivian," or Lord
Waterford's " The Switcher," would alone have
faced. They were thus formed : outside, a row
of the cross-thorn acacia, then a row of aloes,

F 3
70 ALGIERS IN 1857.

then one of prickly pear, and then a broad

ditch ; a vegetable chevaux-de-frise, and a
terrible fence to cross under any circumstances.
The cattle, in point of size, were finer than
any we had yet seen in Algeria ; but they were
coarse, mouse-coloured beasts, large in bone
and rough in their skins ; Yernon, however,
suggested that probably a thick hairy jacket
was a great advantage in a country infested by
mosquitoes and the much-dreaded oestrus, to
which the monk bowed his assent. Cocks
and hens, for the omelets, swarmed in the
farm-yard ; there were also a few long-legged
pigs, and a capital heap of old stable-manure,
which a monk was forking over at that very
time. Also, at different points of the farm,
there were corn-mills with overshot wheels,
aqueducts, reservoirs, a bath-house, and lastly,
lime-kilns, which they burned with the wild
olive instead of coal, and the quality of the
lime was excellent.
The last object of attraction was the ceme-
tery : but here were no epitaphs, no costly
sculpture to record the great deeds of tlie

dead ; and, with one exception, not even an

inscription over a grave to denote its occupant.
 ;

MONASTERY OF STAOUELI. 71

A few cypresses and a plain stone slab were

the sole ornaments of this simple spot ; the

latter told the reader, in a few words, that

the tomb beneath contained the remains of
the Vicar of Algiers, who, valuing his friends
the Trappists, had wished to be near them
even in death.
The society of La Trappe at Staoueli is said

to include men of all ranks among its mem-

bers,from the highest noble of France to the
humblest peasant from the general and staif
;

officer to the private soldier of the French

army. A very interesting story * is told of a

wounded Zouave, who presented himself for

admission within its sanctuary; and Horace
Vernet has immortalised the subject by a pic-
ture of touching effect, which may now be seen
in the Palais de I'lndustrie, at Paris. " I am
a wounded soldier," said he to the Superior
" and here is my discharge, signed by the
colonel of my regiment. I am only now
recovering from a long and painful illness,

occasioned by my wounds and I vowed, if I

;

recovered, to devote my life to God receive :

* The substance of it appeared in the Times news-

paper.
F 4
 :

72 ALGIERS IN 1857.

me, then, into your community." The Supe-

by the man's earnestness, replied
rior, affected
" Attend to-morrow in the chapel, and if your

credentials are satisfactory, I will bring the

case before ray brethren." The day came, and
when all were assembled within the sacred
walls, the Superior rose and, pointing to the
Zouave on his knees, said :
" Brethren, behold

a man who desires admission into our fold

he is at once a wolf and a coward ; he has
disgraced himself as a soldier, and would now
disgrace us by belonging to our community
will you receive such a man amongst you ?"
A deep silence followed ; tears were seen to
fall from the soldier's cheeks ; the congregation
parted, and left him alone on his knees. The
next morninf]: the brethren a2;ain met : the
soldier had passed the night in prayer, and
the Superior, approaching him, said "Brethren, :

here is a soldier who is the bravest of the

brave, and a true Christian ; he has endured
the worst slander without a murmur, and the
greatest danger without fear: we will admit
him into our community." For four years he
was a happy inmate of that peaceful abode ;

when the wound on his forehead opening

 MONASTERY OF STA.OUELI. 73

afresh, he was suddenly carried off to the

mansions of eternal peace and rest ; but, long
before his death, the honour of bearing the
cross at the head of their community was
conferred upon him as a reward for his distin-
guished faith and piety.
On leaving the monastery we were glad to
obtain, at a small price, a few trinkets and
specimens of workmanship as souvenirs of the
monks' ingenuity : the chaplets of palmetta
berries, for instance, were convertible, with
very little trouble, into handsome bracelets,

and served at once to remind us of the country

as well as the hands that wrought them. We

thanked our guide for the kind and hospitable
manner in which we had been received ; while
he courteously replied that, as married ladies
with their husbands were not excluded from
their hospitalities, he hoped we would not
forget to bring ours with us the next time we
visited Staoueli.
74 ALGIERS IN 1857.

CHAP. IV.

SOCIETY. — NATIVE POPULATION.

The colour of the human face at Algiers is

not more varied than that of its society : the

gradations of sets and cliques among the
military and government employes, clergy,
consuls, merchants, and citizens of every de-
nomination being as numerous as they are
in any other town of similar heterogeneous
character. The Governor. General of Algeria,
Marshal Randon, and his lady occupy the first

rank, and do the honours for the government

of which he is the chief representative. Re-
ceptions take place at certain intervals, and if
a visitor aspire to a presentation, he had better
provide himself with a direct letter of intro-
duction to tlic Governor-general before he
arrives at Algiers. Otherwise, if he expect
the entree throuirh the usual channel, the
 :

SOCIETY. 75

Consul of his country*, he will probably en-

counter a difficulty: " the Comtesse de Ran-
don's reception-rooms are limited in size, and
the admission of strans^ers must be re5:ulated
accordingly." In these days of hoop and
circle, small rooms are decidedly inconvenient
at Algiers a corresponding expansion in the
latter would be an act of gallantry worthy of
imperial consideration.
The Prefect's parties were admitted on all

sides to be particularly agreeable. A ball at

the Prefecture happened to be given just when

H.M.S. the "Dauntless" touched at Algiers:
the captain and officers received a prompt
invitation,and in honour of the British flag,
the " Lancers " was the popular dance of the
night, champagne flowed in streams,
while
and nearly carried a lively midshipman ofi" his
legs. A French gentleman present, whose
* H.B.lM.'s Consul-General of Algeria is Mr. John
Bell, thanwhom there cannot be a more obliging public
officer. He is, however, officially bound to convey the
expression of Madame Randon's difficulties to his fellow-
countrymen. Mr. Elmore, the Vice-Consul at Algiers,
is an active, intelligent man: he is well acquainted with

the colony, and is always ready and willing to give infor-

mation that may be useful to the Algerine traveller.
 :

76 ALGIERS IN 1857.

head of hair was unusually rough and grand,

would have helped the young sailor even to
tQore wine ; but he wisely declined, and patting
the other on the back, said :
" If I took it from
any one, old fellow, it would be from you, for
I never saw any one before so like the British
lion." The French are fond of "pleasantry,"
and the remark, although somewhat personal,
but singularly applicable, created immense
entertainment.
There is scarcely a night in the seven days
of the week in which some private ball or
exhibition does not take place ; but, exclusive
of these, there will be no lack of quiet and
rational amusement to the English visitor at
Algiers. Besides the charming rides and
walks of which we have already spoken, there
are boats always ready for water excursions
there is the town and population to be con-
sidered, the museum, and the exposition of
native industry. A man need not be an
artist to enjoy the scene living and moving on
the Place Iloyale ; figures as varying and new
to him as those of a kaleidoscope are pre-
sented to his delighted gaze whichever way he
turns it. The picture is a perpetual feast to
 ;

SOCIETY. 77

the eye : men of all countries meet here at all

hours of the day, clad in every imaginable
costume, from the garb of Old Gaul to that of
the Faubourg St. Honore, from the bornous of
the Sahara to the cocked-hat and epaulets of
martial France. Here may be seen Grand
Turks whose heads are surmounted by turbans
as broad as their shoulders Muftis or Maho-
;

metan judges buried in the endless folds of

their white head-gear, which, from its even-
ness and precision, resembles a mighty cotton-
ball wrought and wound in Manchester ; the
Algerine Jew in his purple and gold suit, with
patent-leather high-heeled shoes, white stock-
ings to the knee, and an amber-headed cane
in his hand, of all coxcombs the greatest
princes of the land, with hewers of wood and
drawers of water ; French ladies in the last
full fashion of the Parisian season ; ne2:resses
in a cotton wrap of scrimpy dimensions, with
unclad picaninies slung and pouched like
young 'possums at their back ; and, lastly, fair
Mauresques, enveloped in snowy attire, who,
were it not for the beautiful eyes whose
sparkle cannot be veiled, might be mistaken
for ghosts passing to and fro silenfly and
 :

78 ALGIERS IN 1857.

mysteriously among tlie human crowd, but

taking no part in its afFuirs.

Amid this motley group you seat yourself

under the shade of an orange-tree, and a
venerable Moor, whose beard and benign
countenance might aptly represent that of
Father Abraham, and whose garb is that of
Dives himself, places himself by your side,

tucks up his legs, and in the enjoyment of a

pipe, seeks to forget the hardships of his fallen
race. The Arab of the desert and the Kabyle
of the mountains are lying at full length on
the ground Avithin a few yards of you, and
display a set of limbs worthy of Hercules
himself. Suddenly a sound strikes on the
ear which attracts their earnest attention ; the
Arab and the Kabyle spring to their legs, and
the Moor, lowering his pipe, blows out a last
whiff in deference to the call. It is the cry of
the Muezzin summoning the faithful to prayer
and if ever a Mussulman is roused from his
habitual lethargy, it is to obey the law of his
Prophet, — he washes in haste and liurries to
the mosque. Five times during the night and
day the Muezzin mount the minarets, and in
a loud sonorous tone proclaim the hour of
 —

SOCIETY. 79

prayer.
for the office, and far and wide over the city
is the sound heard, like that of a tenor bell,

" Swinging slow with solemn roar,

Over some wide-watered shore."

In the stillness of night the invitation to

worship God falls on the stranger's ear v/ith

most impressive effect, for the sound, if it

waken the sleeper, will awaken his conscience

as well. He hears the Mussulman pattering
in the dark street on his way to the mosque,
and then his thoughts turn inwards,
—" How
do / serve God ? " The comparison, if it do
not make him a better man, will only add to
his condemnation ; the inhabitants of Tyre
and Sidon him on the
will take precedence of

last great day, " For unto whomsoever much

is given, of him shall be much required."

After three centuries of piracy, from the

time of the desperate Barbarossa, in 1517,
to the bombardment of Algiers by Lord

* prayer—
"To prayer! God
to the one God. To is

prayer— prayer IMohammed the prophet of God.

to ! is

prayer —
'I'o prayerto Time ! from you. To
is flying
prayer— prayer
to Judgment
! drawing nigh you."
is to
80 ALGIERS IN 1857.

Exmouth, in 1816; after the commission of

crimes of a catholic cliaracter, which con-
signed all Christians, captured and brought to
Algiers, to the most cruel slavery, and by
which all Europe was more or less affected,
the do^vnfal of the Turks in Algeria was
hailed with delight by the whole civilised
world. In 1830 a petty insult offered by
Hussein, the last Dey, to M. Deval, Consul of
France, brou^-ht the lono: list of o^rievances to
a close. The Dey slapped him in the face with
his fan at a public receptionupon which the ;

consul withdrew in anger, and, in the name of

his government, demanded an apology this :

being refused, the French landed an army at

Sidi Ferruch, and, with that promptitude
which marks their character, conquered the
country and swept every vestige of Turkish
tyranny from the stronghold it had so long
occupied : the civilisation of the world gained
a step by the victory.
Soon after this event, the Turks, the loiifr-

dreaded tyrants of the town and the scourges

of the sea, sold their possessions at a great
loss, and withdrew in numbers to Alexandria
and Tunis ; but, by intermarrying with the
 SOCIETY. 81

native women, they left behind them a mixed

people, called Koulouglis, who, as specimens
of manhood, are remarkable for their hand-
some features and noble deportment. These,
with a small remnant of veritable Turks, are
now the sole representatives of the once domi-
nant race at Algiers. Of the latter, a fine
dignified Turk, is the Prince Mohammed Mus-
tapha Pasha, son of the last Dey but his grand
;

turban and splendid dress do not take from

his countenance an expression M'-hich tells you
unmistakeably that he has seen better days.
The hospitable and sumptuous manner in
which he entertained the French princes, sons
of Louis-Philippe, who lived with the prince
when they came to Algiers, and the subse-
quent non-fulfilment of his hope with respect
to the governorship of Algeria, not only
brought disappointment but led to his serious
embarrassment. It is said, however, that
although he chose to live like a prince, his
resources were never equal to the expenditure.
He takes a friendly interest in our country-
men, and thinks, from the manner in which we
prosecuted the late war against Russia, that the
gratitude of all Turks is due to us for ever.
G
82 ALGIERS IN 1857.

In a social and moral point of view, the

Turk of Algiers is an improved character;
unlike his predecessors, he is no longer a poly-
ffamist, indulirin": in harems and concomitant
abominations, but is the husband of one wife,
and a respectable member of society. The
ladies of a family generally live together,

mother, wife, and sisters; but we are assured,

on good authority, that no such thing as a
harem exists at present at Algiers. With one
wife, however, the Turk is a jealous man ; no
eye is allowed to penetrate, no foot to tread,
the inner courts of his liouse: it is literally

his castleno matter how friendly you may

;

be with him, if you approach it, even with

your wife on your arm, she is admitted, but
you are excluded from its portals. In some
Turkish houses there is a kind of outer hall,
wliich they call " skiffa," and thus far a gentle-
man sometimes permitted to enter,
visitor is

and receive the hospitalities of the mansion.

A visit was occasionally paid by the English
ladies to the Turkisli families residing at

Mustapha Superior: a peep behind the cur-

tain was thus obtained, and both parties were

mutually gratified. Bon-bons and confection-

 SOCIETY. 83

ery were a welcome present, and, indeed,

seemed to be expected by the Turkish ladies,

so of course they were never forgotten ; and,

on the other hand, they made good coffee for
their guests, painted their eyelids and tinged
their nails with henna, and were never tired of
examinino- the En2;lisli dresses and costume :

the crinoline, or rather the new steel cage, was

an object of especial wonder and amusement
to them. On one of these occasions the
Marabout's lady wore a brooch on which a
copy of the Chandos Shakspeare was beauti-
fully executed ; the manly face attracted the
Turkish ladies' attention, and, by many play-
ful signs and indications, they made her
understand that the portrait represented her
husband (umbra), but that she did not wear
it in the right place. Accordingly, they con-
trived to unpin it, and then refastened it over
her heart. There were at least twelve ladies

in this family, the Avives of three brothers, the

mother and sisters, and several young children.
All sat in a circle on the floor in a laro^e

apartment which was well carpeted, but con-

tained neither table nor chair of any de-
scription. A picturesque looking-glass hung
G 2
84 ALGIERS IN 1857.

against a "wall, and if its value could be esti-

mated by the frequency with which it was

used, it would certainly be a precious article ;

the adjustment of the hair and of the splendid

diamonds Avith Avhich it was interlaced, was
the cause of perpetual visits to this queer old
mirror. The young ladies were all good-
looking, two of the wives not above sixteen,
great beauties ; their complexions were as
clear as those of an English lady; the colour
of the hair auburn or black ; the eyes large,
dark, and lustrous ; the nose and mouth small,
delicate, and well delined ; in manner playful
and simple as children, not an air nor a grace
did they assume wdiich was not the gift of
nature. The veil to tliem is almost what
dignity is to an English lady ; when in the

privacy of a home circle, that is removed, cold

reserve is banished, and the natural woman
shines forth in all her sim[)Iicity and elegance.
It happened on this occasion that a sweet
cliild belonging to the least pretty of the
married ladies was very ill; the distress of
the poor mother was most touching as she
pressed the inf\mt to her Iwsom, and seemed
to seek for help in vain, ^^'llat could be done
 NATIVE POPULATION. 85

to arrest the fever ?—the presence of a medical

man among the Turkish ladies would have
been regarded as the intrusion of a Giaour, a
thing not to be proposed ; so she looked
imploringly at the English ladies, hoping they
might suggest a remedy. The Marabout's
wife, ever ready in case of distress, did not
wait for a stronger appeal ; her sympathy and
her services, always acting in sequence, were
at once devoted to the little sufferer. She
felt the burnino: skin and the throbbino; little

pulse, and then hastened without a moment's

delay to prescribe doses of gray-powder, which
she had brought with her from England ; but
the remedy came too late, the child died before
it could take effect.

If the law or custom of the country forbid

the presence of a medical man among its

female population, it certainly should be the

business of the civilised French o-overnment
to provide women who might be qualified by
education and practice to attend to the require-
ments of sufferers among their own sex : the
plan prevails at Paris, and in mercy should be
extended to Algiers.
The Jews form so conspicuous a portion of
G 3
 ;

86 ALGIERS IN 1857.

the inhabitants of Algiers, that a description

of its population would be incomplete if it

passed them over in silence. Before the con-

quest of the country by the French, the
children of Israel were hated and oppressed
alike by Turks and Moors, and even compelled
to wear a dress black and distinct from the
rest of the people. But at present, protected
by the French government, which not only
•
tolerates their religious oj^inions, but provides
them with a decorous place of worship, they
carry on a flourishing trade, and enjoy every
social advantage which good subjects could
desire. They are said to be offensively proud
and mean in their mercantile transactions
but it must be borne in mind that, whenever
a man is more industrious than his fellows, or
is making money and taking care of it, he

will always be an object of jealousy to the

more careless and less successful of his neicfh-

hours. They certainly dress in gorgeous

apparel on Saturdays and fete days ; the
women are a mass of gold and silk, and tlie
men are bedizened with braid, and crimson
and blue cloth, such as actors in front of a
country show might be proud to wear.
 NATIVE POPULATION. 87

The proselytism of the natives is a principle

to which the French government is much op-
posed ; still, as the Jews can scarcely be called
"indigenes," the guardianship of their religion
is left to theirown keeping it could not well
:

be in safer hands. As zealous a man as lives,

as earnest a labourer as ever toiled in the
Lord's vineyard, has been zealous to little

purpose, and has laboured almost in vain to

convert this people from their ancient faith to
that of the Gospel of Christ. He is called
Weiss, and if sincerity and devotion could
command success, there would not at present
be aJew left in all Algiers. But what avails
it that he blow the trumpet in Zion ever so
faithfully if none flock to his banner? — can it

be that the standard of the missionary is too

high, the spiritual meat too strong for the
followers he would fain enlist ? If this be so,
tlie failure is attributable as much to a want
of judgment on his part as to a lack of faith
on theirs.
"I am come to change my religion," said a
young Jew, calling upon the missionary one
day, "will you aid me in doing so ?" "Change
your religion, man ? " said he, "you've no re-

G 4
88 ALGIERS IN 1857.

ligion to change ; use right language, and say

you are an unbeliever, and that you want to
adopt the Christian religion ; what have you
to change f^^
The Jew, nevertheless, did for a time pro-
fess the Christian faith, and was so attentive
to his new duties that Mr. Weiss felt assured
that in him at least he had found a sincere
convert. But his hand was not steady on the
plough, he looked back and j)roved that as

yet, at any rate, he was " not fit for i\\Q king-
dom of God." After a long absence he
appeared again at the missionary's door, this
time to explain :
" I wished," he said, " to

become a Christian, and to live like a Chris-

tian, but it is impossible ; 1 am but a man,
and you require me to be an angel."
The religion of a man, if it is not imbibed
with his mother's milk, is instilled into him at
his mother's knees ; to displace it and sub-
stitute another requires something more than
human agency, and nothing less than the hand
of God.
The Moors were formerly men of high
importance in the city of Algiers ; at present
they are the most depressed of its inhabitants.
 NATIVE POPULATION. 89

For the most part poor and improvident, they

now earn a precarious livelihood where once
their wealth was boundless. The Moor, how-
ever, is half-brother to the Arab in his wan-

dering nature; if Algiers do not suit him,

Tunis or Tripoli may, and his Penates are
constantly on the move. The poorest of them
are treated like slaves : the waggons they
draw and the burdens they carry under a
burning sun, would astonish a London dray-
man not a little ; and if, after witnessing their

powers of labour, he only knew by what kind

of nourishment their strength is sustained,

his belief in beef and beer would be staggered

for the rest of his days. The indigent Moor,
however, no vulgar labourer, but as lazy a
is

fellow as lives, and he only works when his

stomach pinches him; he keeps off the pres-
sure as long as he can by smoking and sleep-
ing alternately, and when endurance can go
no farther, he gets into harness, couples him-
selfup to the pole of a charrette^ and then
tugs and strains at the weight, as if his life
depended upon the labour. But if the man's
portion is toil and penury, that of his wife and
children is still more so they know no change
:
90 ALGIEES IN 1857.

from the grim want and servitude to which

they are consigned.
Captain Loche, who is an eminent orni-
thologist, and whose collection of rare birds
is quite one of the wonders of Algeria, told us
that improvidence and voluptuousness were
the most striking features of the Moorish
character. A j\loor of the lowest class, who
was in the habit of doim? little commissions
for him, and gained a scanty subsistence
thereby, seemed one morning to be gayer than
usual :
" Why, Yagoub," said the captain to
him, " you look as lively as a hawk, surely some
good fortune has blessed you ; what is it, my
man ?"
" I've just
bought a young wife," said he;
"her eyes are bright, and I am happy God :

be praised."
" You, a young wife ? — you've got one at
home already, with three children : you can't
keep another ; where is the food and clothing
"
to come from ?

" They'll eat from one bowl as before," said

he ;
" and for clothing, I'll buy her two
chemises and a pantaloon, and that will be
sufficient, you know."
 NATIVE POPULATION. 91

Captain Loche, in narrating this conversa-

tion, assured us that this man had never
allowed his wife and children more than three
sous a day, with which they purchased semou-
line,made it into porridge or kouskoussou,
and thus managed to prolong life from one
week to another, not only without change but
with no prospect of alleviation. At the insti-
gation of the wife, however, Captain Loche
interferedand contrived to quash the new
matrimonial scheme, and Yagoub became a
better husband.
The Moors is above the mid-
stature of the
dle size, and brawny
their limbs, exposed to
view, display a combination of bone and
muscle which indicates the power of the cart-
horse rather than that of the thorough-bred.
The features are large but well formed, the
nose acquiline, and the eye full, dark, and
expressive ; the colour of the skin is a clear
olive, or what we call brunette, and the
notion of a Moor being a black man in any
country is a bungle attributable rather to
Shakspeare's knowledge of stage effect than
to ignorance on the subject. But, in com-
pliance with the poet's description, so univer-
92 ALGIERS IN 1857.

sally has his colour been represented as black,

that the appearance of the character in any
other colour would scarcely be recognised, or, if

recognised, not accepted as that of a genuine

Moor.
A friend of ours, wlio, without being stage-
struck, had a great taste for theatricals, hap-
pened to stay in the town of Berwick-upon-
Tweed for a few days and hearing that a
;

company of strolling players had just arrived,

he inquired for the manager, and, by way of
entertaining himself as well as tlie public,
volunteered his services as an amateur for
three successive nights. The offer was thank-
fully accepted, and the character of Othello at
once allotted to him for the first night's per-
formance. When tlie time came, our friend
not liking the soot with whicli they proposed
to colour him, and observing through a hole
in the curtain that the house was a wretchedly
thin one, refused to be blacked, alleging that
the good folks of Berwick-upon-Tweed would
be none the wiser : so the manager gave way,
and he appeared in liis own natural colour.
The play was getting on remarkably well, our
hero in the middle of making a telling speech.
 ;

NATIVE POPULATION. \)6

and the audience all attention, when a bustle

was heard at the back of the stage-box, and,
to his horror, in hobbled upon sticks two men
whom the eye of the amateur instantly re-
cognised as Walter Scott and James Hogg.
They had scarcely seated themselves, before
Scott turned to Hogg, and said, in an audible
whisper, " By heavens, Hogg, here's a white
Othello !
" and a roar of merriment ensued,
which so disconcerted the hero, that instead of
tragedy it became a perfect comedy and the :

two great men are reported to have said that

they had never passed a more amusing night.
Amonof the better class of Moors the ladies
lead an easy and a comparatively tranquil life
beautiful in youth, but subject to early decay,
they are like the wild flowers of their native
plains, which delight the senses and flourish

for a short season, only to perpetuate their

race. At the early age of fourteen a Mau-
resque becomes marriageable : purchased by
the husband at a price which is regulated by
the charms of the lady, her prime solicitude is

to present him with an early token of her

aff'ection, and to secure the matrimonial bond

by an additional link. The Moorish lady may

94 ALGIERS IN 1857.

not be singular in this respect; but to her the

matter is of vital importance, for if she fail in
this duty within the short period of two years,
the husband may divorce her by law, and
return her to her friends like a bale of useless
goods. If he do so within the prescribed
period, he is entitled to a restitution of a part
of the purchase money; and this necessarily

leads to litigation, immorality, and a compli-

cation of misery. The wedding garment, thus
manufactured, sits loosely on the wearers,
and, by application to the j\Iahommedan Court
of Arches, malcontents of both sexes are per-
mitted to cast it aside with little or no im-
pediment.
Hitherto Mauresques have neither been
able to read nor write ; and, as they are ex-
cluded from the mosques, their occupations
and amusements are confined to a very nar-
row circle, the latter to the bath and em-
broidery, the former to domesticities and the
general cares of a family. Food for the mind
and soul is equally denied to them. In
strolling through the Moorish part of the
town, a most interesting walk to a stranger,
he will be amused to hear the soft merry
 NATIVE POPULATION. 95

voices of women proceeding from the dark

jackdaw-holes with which the house-walls are
perforated : the holes themselves are not large
enough to admit the human head, and yet, to
make " assurance doubly sure," they are se-

cured by massive iron-bars, which the French

call a " grille," and which seem to bid defiance
to the intrusion of anything more dangerous
than a ray of light or the wooing breeze of a
zephyr's wing. The Moorish ladies seldom
appear in the streets after nightfall; but if

they have occasion to pass from one house to

another, they carry a lighted lamp in their
hands to protect them from insult, and to
indicate to the French police that they are
proper women. Even in the daytime it is

not the custom for veiled Mauresques to hold

communication with any man in the streets :

their nearest relation will pass them without

a token of recognition. Nevertheless, as may
be supposed, this is a rule which has many
exceptions ; and profiting, doubtless, by the
vivacity of their new neighbours, they have
become of more communicative than they
late
were wont to be in times past. Walking one
day with a stately Moor in the Rue Benali, we
96 ALGIERS IN 1857.

encountered two young Mauresques, attended

by a negress nurse, carrying a fine baby in
her arms. As the party approached, it was
clear the gentleman and they were more than
mere friends; tlie ladies uttered a kind of "hi
hi," and the baby crowed in his face; but this

was a distant salutation compared with what

followed. One of the ladies drawing near, and
unfolding the voluminous white shawl which
drooped gracefully from the crown of her head
to the knees, extended a x>lump fair arm, bare
to the very shoulder, but adorned with rings
and bracelets of a costly description, and
seizing the Moor by his beard, wagged his
head to and fro in the most ridiculous manner.
The lady fairly screamed with delight at the
torture she was inflicting, while the Moor
appeared rather flattered than pained by her
playful humour ; at all events, " it pleased her
and did not hurt him;" so, pointing at the
babv, she laughed again in her victim's face,
pulled his beard witli impunity, and then
passed on. The fair Mauresque was the
man's wife; no other human being would have
dared to play such pranks with a Mussul-
man's l)eard.
 NATIVE POPULATION. 97

On another occasion we entered a French

carpenter's shop : the man was at work makino-
Turkish brackets and gilding them for the
market he was also smoking and talking, only
;

as a Frenchman can talk and smoke, all at

the same time. A young Moorish lady, about
sixteen, walked in, and leisurely looking round,
gave the man an order to make her a trinket
box, the size of which she chalked out on his
table, and then bargained for the price. The
carpenter, however, made her understand that
he expected a deposit, a part-payment, before
he executed the order. The lady havino- no
money about her, was at fault for a moment,
but recovering herself as rapidly, she removed
the veil from her face, and turned on us the
full light of her eyes ; then, as a child begs
for a sweetmeat, she put on the most winning
expression, and said, " Can't you help me to
pay this thief?" Thevery lovely one,
face, a
was, doubtless, the lever by which power
had
been applied to carry her point on
more
occasions than the present one : the removal
of the veil was of course a bribe that could
not be resisted, so the box was ordered
and
paid for without further ado. On the lady's
n
98 ALGIERS IN 1857.

departure, the carpenter informed us it was

a common practice for the Moorish ladies to
walk into his shop and order him to manufac-
ture an article for wliich they promised to
call on the following day, but that they
generally forgot to do so : he was obliged, he
said, to adopt the plan of pre-payment to
check this childish amusement.
The force of example is doing its work both
in civilising and demoralising the Moorish
women ; they observe the freedom enjoyed by
the French ladies, but they do not, like the
latter, enjoy education and religion to guide
and restrain them in the proper use of it. Of
late,some unmarried Mauresques have not only
resisted the purchase system, but have refused
to be united to Moorish husbands at all ; and
married ones have literally taken French leave
in extending their privileges, and in casting
off a yoke which tliey see is not borne by
European wives. The Comtesse de Randon
has on more than one occasion persuaded a
few of the principal Moors to bring their
hidies to witness her evening assemblies ; and,
although they sat veiled and separate, and
took no active part in the festivities of the
 — :

NATIVE POPULATION. 99

night, yet the gaiety of the scene, the music

and the mazy dance, must have
im- left its

pression, and probably induced comparisons

unfavourable to their own secluded lot. But
daylight is dawning upon them in a more
direct and less questionable form than this

the education of the Moorish youth of both

sexes is at length attracting public attention.*

Urged to it by the persistent appeal and

extraordinary self-devotion of a single indi-

* The Minister of War thus reports on the present

state of public instruction in Algeria :

"In what are called the military territories primary-

instruction has remained stationary, but at Algiers, Con-
stantine, Bona, Blidah, Mostaganem, Flemcen, in the civil

territories, a certain number of Mussulman schools for

Arab and French instruction have, in execution of the
decree of the 14th of July, 1850, been established, and
are regularly attended by about 1200 pupils of both sexes.
In Algiers in particular, at the end of last year, the num-
ber of Mussulman schools increased to four, and their
pupils to about 450. Not content with what has been
done for instruction, efforts have been made to moralise
the rising Arab generation, by developing in it a taste
for honest industry and accordingly sums of money are
;

to be given to European workmen who will receive Arab

children from the schools as apprentices. A native school
has been established at Algiers, and female children are
taught the art of sewing."
h2
100 ALGIERS IN 1857.

vidual, and that too a lady, the French

Government has been brought to acknowledge
the wisdom of the measure, and to yield a
tardy and reluctant support to it. Schools
for the instruction of the ^Moorish boys had
already been established, when Madame Luce,
a widow possessing but a small income of her
own, and unknown beyond the narrow circle

of a few friends, determined to establish a

girls' school, and to extend, if possible, the
benefits of a useful and liberal education to

the future wives and mothers of the ]\Ioorish

population. Accordingly, not only without
human help, but under heavy discouragement,
she faced the difficulty, confident that a
stronger power than that of man would sup-
port her in the prosecution of designs con-
ceived only for the benefit of her fellow-
creatures.
Having taken a house of considerable size
in the centre of the Moorish town, Madame
Luce's first business Avas to conciliate her
neighbours and explain the object of her resi-

dence among them. Her knowledge of Arabic,

acquired for this ver}' purpose, and her own
earnest and sincere manners, favoured her
 :

NATIVE POPULATION. 101

early advances, and paved the way for at least

the toleration, if not the hearty acceptance, of
her plan. For many a weary year did she
toil and toil on with four or five pupils only,

to each of whose mothers she paid the weekly

sum of two francs for the privilege of educating
their daughters ! At length, her private fortune
being exhausted, she took the bold step of
visitingParis and appealing to the French
Government in person. A grant of 3000 francs
was the immediate result of this journey, and
a promise of further support being added, she
turned homewards with a light heart to re-
commence and redouble her efforts in behalf
of her darling scheme.
Slowly but surely her philanthropic views
came to be appreciated,and she has now the
gratification of seeing 150 or 200 Mauresques
daily crowding to her school. Madame Luce's
promise to the parents not to interfere with
the religion of her pupils is faithfully observed
notwithstanding, she deems it her duty and
no violation of her promise to inculcate moral
practices such as a Christian would think it
necessary to observe. To read and write
fluently in the French language, to keep ac-
H 3
 :

102 ALGIERS IN 1857.

counts and work with the needle, are the main

points insisted upon in their education ; and
according to the report of the Government
Inspector, the progress of the pupils is highly
satisfactory. Eventually, the result cannot
fail to affect the social condition of the whole
Moorish population, but especially that of the
women, to whom instruction and occupation
must prove a blessing. Truly Madame Luce
has a mighty work in hand; but 'svith her iron
resolution, supported and encouraged by a
firm trust in God, she is well fitted to the task
let any one look in her grand face and say if

the combination of character wliich it indicates

does not demonstrate a power equal to any
emergency.
 103

CHAP. V.

THE SETTLERS. — THE KABYLES. — THE MARA-

BOUTS. — SAFE TRAVELLING IN THE COLONY.

With the exception of the Mahonese, the

colonists of Algeria are not a thriving race;

but the causes of failure are attributable to

no want of fertility in the soil nor of industry
in the cultivators. The French Government
has not been sufficiently liberal in its conces-

sions, either with regard to the produce of the

country or the establishment of the settlers in
their new possessions. In this case, long and
tedious delays in obtaining the necessary title

to an estate keep the occupier unsettled and

his capital insecure: and then certain condi-
tions are imposed requiring the farmer to raise
so many buildings and to plant so many trees

within a given time ; which conditions, if not

fulfilled, subject him to the loss not only of
H 4
 104 ALGIERS IN 1857

the farm but of the money \Yhich he has al-

ready expended upon it. In the other, such
men as our free-trade leaders are Avanted in
the French Chambers to represent the interests
of Algeria, to give life and buoyancy to the
colony. Labour is very high, and consequently
the necessaries of life are high also. But the
])ropinquity of the colony to the mother coun-
try is perhaps the greatest drawback of all. No
sooner does the settler become disgusted with
his new abode than he turns his face home-
wards : he stands on the edge of the blue sea,

with nothing but it between him and his

home, and, in imagination, he almost sees his

native hills ; and he does see the vessels which

conveyed him and his friends from their native
l^ort returning almost daily to the same not
far-distant haven. The thought is father to
the act ; a few francs pay for his berth, and in
forty-eight hours he is again in France. Our
colonists cannot gratify their whims in this

way; theirs is a life-abandonment of home,

when once they have quitted it for any of our
foreign colonics ; and the price of the passage
is no small obstacle to their return.
Much of the plain of the Metidja is already
 THE SETTLERS. 105

well drained and well farmed ;* but, whenever

you see a tract of land in better form than the
rest,you may be sure that the occupier is a
Mahonese. Englishmen, on two or three occa-
sions, have attempted to establish themselves
as squatters in the country; but with all the
advantage of superior implements, a thorough
knowledge of farming, and the aid of capital,
labour has failed them, and they have not suc-
ceeded so well as they deserved. The cultiva-

tion of the virgin soil is often fatal to the first

cultivators, and few escape the African fever
who are engaged in breaking fresh ground.
Nevertheless, grubbing, firing, and draining are
going on in every direction, and new villages

* The Report of the Minister of War states " that

from all the information collected, the natives are more
than ever turning their attention to agricultural pursuits ;
and this fact is proved by the statistical accounts of the
quantity of ground under cultivation. In 1855 the num-
ber of hectares (2^ acres each) sown in the provinces of
Algiers, Oran, and Constantine, was 1,765,071 ; and in
1856, 2,082,524, showing an increase of 347,453 hectares.
Notwithstanding this increase in extent, the Arabs have
not made so much improvement as could be wished in
their system of cultivation. They fear that as coloniza-
tion by Europeans advances, they sliall be dispossessed of
the ground they now hold."
lOG ALGIERS IN 1857.

spring u]i like the gourd of Jonah ; they are

" a shadow for the head " and little more. At
the far end of the forest of the Eegaiah, about
eio;ht or nine leao-ues from Al2;iers, is the new
town of Boudaouah ; it stands on the edge of
the little upon the neutral ground
Atlas, close
between Kabylia and the French possessions.
At present (1857) it numbers about twenty
houses, all of which have been built in a
" clearing " of the forest, within the past year;

and, sad to relate, every house is an auherge^

most of them furnished with wines and rare
liqueurs such as could not be obtained in any
second-class hotel in England. With such
temptations in their way, and such incentives
to idleness and vice, how can it be expected
that the colonists will prosper ? — the thing is

morally impossible, and they who do expect

otherwise will be miserably disappointed.
The wants of the colony create a perpetual
drain on the French treasury ; and although
enormous sums are expended, even to the an-
nual amount of more than a hundred million
francs, very little of it is devoted to the use
of the poor emigrant : he is neither started
fairly at first, nor encouraged liberally after-
 THE SETTLERS. 107

wards. The Summer Palace of Hussein, the

last Dey of Algiers, has indeed been converted
into a vast warehouse for the reception of the
tobacco grown in the colony. Government
takes possession of it and guarantees a remu-
nerating price to the grower; but if the former,
by converting the weed into cigars, do not
realise a better profit than the latter, both will
become bankrupt together.
The vast army maintained in Algeria and
the crowd of officials employed to administer
the civil afftiirs of the colony divert the stream
of help from the colonist, and embarrass the
treasury. Of the soldiers and civilians we
wish to say nothing but what is respectful ; if

the latter are unacquainted with the language

and habits of the people whose affairs they are
called upon is the government
to manage, then
to blame. The English judges on the Welsh
circuits require interpreters, and through
them administer the law to the Celtic race ;

but if men with a thorough knowledge of the

Welsh and their language were made judges
of the land, then would matters be simplified
amazingly. To obey orders is the first duty
of a soldier and if he is commanded to carry
 108 ALGIEES IN 1857.

the sword, fire, and famine into the high-

lands of Kabylia, the responsibihty rests M-ith
the Government. The enormous expense at-
tendant upon these expeditions is, and long has
been, the cause of much dissatisfaction in the
colony. defiance of public feeling, the
Still, in

horrors of war are ever and anon perpetrated

upon an industrious peoj^le, their homes
burned, their women violated, and their land
rendered desolate. Then the Kabyles retaliate
by mutilating and roasting the enemy who is
unlucky enough to fall alive into their hands.
Theirs is the revenge of savages, and is even
admitted, if not commanded, by their religion,
and therefore not to be wondered at. But
the civilised French people, who are, or ought
to be. Christians, know better, and should be
the first to set an example of mercy, peace,
and forbearance to their less enlio^htened nei"-h-
hours. Tiie example might have its effect
better than rough measures.
The Kabyles inhabit a vast mountainous
district lying betAveen Algiers and Constantine,
and are supposed to number 150,000 fighting
men. They have, however, no commander in
chief, and each tribe is left to redress its own
 HATTHAUT . IilTH .

DISTIlfGUISHED ZOUAVE
 THE KABYLES. 109

Avrongs ; consequently, as they can make no

head against a regular army, neither can they
be conquered en masse in any general engage-
ment. They have as many heads as the Ler-
na?an snake, but, unlike it, they are not to be
vanquished by any hero. They are a fine
^Yarlike race of men, and descendants of those
unconquerable Xumidians who defied the ar-
mies of ancient Rome. Excepting their reli-

gion, which is Mahommedan, they have no afiEi-

nity with the Arabs ; their language, customs

and mode of life are distinct from those of the
wandering tribes of the plain. Each tribe
elects its own chief and has its own peculiar
form of government. Every acre of land
which is not rock or sterility itself is cultivated
by this industrious people, nor is the art of
manufacture unknown to them. During the
late war their gunpowder was found to be so
fine and so strong that the French pronounced
it to be English ; but it was afterwards proved
to be of Kabyle fabrication. Soft and luxurious
carpets, fit for a palace ; cloths of wool, if not
equal to our Tweeds, yet far better than some
of the shoddy productions of Yorkshire, ema-
nate from their looms. They also fabricate
110 ALGIERS IN 1857.

tlieir own arms, implements, and leather, the

last of excellent and durable quality.
The Kabyle in Algiers is known by his
leathern apron, peculiar sandals, and black and
white striped burnous : by these tokens the
unpractised eye may distinguish him from the
Arabs or any of the various races which fre-

quent that town. When the Romans invaded

Kabylia, they left behind them a boon of ines-
timable benefit to its inhabitants ; they planted
the hill sides with olive-trees, and taught the
people how to engraft them. Oil is now an
essential of life to them ; they consume it in
every shape, burn it in their wonderfully shaped
clay lamps, eat it witli every dish, and with it

steam their favourite kous-koussou. The jars

in which their oil is stowed away are enor-
mously large, and average in height from four
to six feet ; the traveller who sees them will
remember the story of the Forty Thieves, and
then, perhaps for the first time, understand
how full-grown men, armed and equipped for
their nuirdcrous work, could be concealed in
earthen jars. The Kabylcs mny fairly be said

to be a priest-ridden race ; for every public act

of importance is controlled and directed by

 THE KABYLES. 1 1 1

their Marabouts. The issues of life and death

depend upon the dicta of these prophets ; it is

by their counsel that peace blesses the land, or

that war transforms it into a state of wailinfr
and woe. The cunning of the knaves is only
equalled by the ftmaticism of the people ; and
the education by which they are qualified for
their priestly profession enables them to prac-
tise their impositions on the unlearned only
with greater success. Truly, of them it might
be said :
" Israel, thy prophets are like the
foxes in the deserts." *
It will be satisfactory to the traveller in
North Africa to learn that, with the exception
of those districts in Kabylia which have not
yet acknowledged the supremacy of the French
arms, and from all accounts they are now but
few, he may wander with the utmost security

* A Marabout is often a man of weak intellect, who is

lialf-pitied, half-venerated, and when he dies is usually

buried in a dome-shaped mausoleum, either by the way-
side or in some conspicuous spot. The building, which
is open for all visitors, is always whitewashed, and.
glistening in the sun, may be seen from a long distance.
To its sacred shrine pilgrims resoi't to pray, and criminals
fly thither for protection ; even women are allowed to
enter here and to derive consolation from spiritual inter-
course with the departed saint. So great is their venera-
tion for the Marabout.
112 ALGIERS IN 1857.

from one end of Algeria to the other; from

Tunis to Ano-ad-du-Tell on the confines of
Morocco; from the Mediterranean Sea to the
tribe of Beni-Mzab on the borders of the Great
Desert. This security is of course wholly due
to French management letters from the
:

" Bureau Arabe " are not only effective as

passports of protection, but ensure also a con-
cession of respect which may not otherwise be
given. The whole countr}' has been portioned
into districts, over which French and indige-
nous officers have been placed in command ;

so in whatever district an act of violence

is perpetrated its chief officer is held respon-
sible for it, and he is bound to bring the
off\inder to justice. Failing this, he himself,
perhaps being the Kaid of his tribe and under
the pay of the French Government, is punished
by deposition, fine, or imprisonment, accord-
infj to tlie innij-nitude and character of the
offence. A few sharp exam[)les have satis-

fied the Arabs that the French law is not to

be trifled with ; and accordingly the human
person is as safe, if not safer, from vio-

lence in French Algeria than it is in some

parts even of Great Britain.
 113

CHAP. VT.

THE CARNIVAL. — JUGGLERS. — OLD PIRATE. —

MOORISH CIRCUMCISION. — SHOOTING IN THE
MARSHES. —
DOG STEALERS OF ALGIERS. CAPT. —
LOCHE'S IMPERIAL COLLECTION OF BIRDS. —
BOAR HUNTING.

"When the night was advancing at Algiers, and

dinner had been cleared from the marble slab
on which our meals were served, it was no
small pleasure to sum up the events of the
day and to inscribe them, then and there, in
the pages of a note-book. Matters of great or
small importance found equal admission, and
allwere chronicled without partiality. Now,
from this bank, of very limited liability, we
propose to let the public draw ; but at the
same time we promise to withhold from circu-
lation those notes which are not likely to be
received with interest. Our diary on the
I
114 ALGIERS IN 1857.

20th February, has the following entry: Rode

with the Yernons to Boudjareah, the highest
point of the Saliel ridge. Algiers looked from
it like a set of wliite tea-cups, huddled together
on a waiter, and the Mediterranean like a blue

mist which the eye could not penetrate.

Nothing could surpass the grandeur of the
view towards the mountains nevertheless.
Heard of the dolmens on the plateau, similar
to those of Brittany, and supposed to be the
tombs of a band of Armoricans but did not ;

see them. Not a yard of level ground from

Algiers to Boudjareah enabled us to try our
steeds' paces ; we walked up and walked down
a""ain. Saw the Jews' burial-ojround in sad
disorder ; and reflected that at all events, the
fifth commandment was not their particular
fancy. If they took as much pride in the
adornment of their graveyard as they do in
that of their persons, instead of being a mere
charnel ground, visited by the hyena, it would
be the most decorated cemetery in Africa.
Vernon is a noble companion in the country ;

lie loves and studies nature and considers

;

the lilies of the field and tlie fowls of the

air as God's messengers, proclaiming His
 ;

THE CARNIVAL. 115

handiwork ; he has also the happy knack of

imparting his knowledge without pedantry.
February 24th — Being Shrove Tuesday, the
town was quite wild with the excitement of
the Carnival. The frivolity of the scene be-
yond belief. Masked men and women in every
variety of shape and costume, representing
bears, monkeys, and even the unclean pig:
dancing, drinking, and riding dos-a-dos upon
donkeys buffooning no name for it.
: The
wondering Arabs and Moors regarded the
scene with unmixed contempt and, if they ;

knew that it was but the prelude to a religious

fastj they must have concluded tliat the
Christian community at Algiers had taken
leave of its senses. For the feast in the even-
ing, a handsome bull, his horns gilded and his
back garnished with flowers, ribbons, and
tassels, was led triumphantly through the
streets, followed by a procession that ^vould
have done honour to the Lord Mayor of
London. Verily these civilisers of the world
must have fallen many degrees in the estima-
tion of the dignified natives. Then the revel-
ling and intoxication at night were frightful
the whole city was in an uproar.
I 2
116 ALGIERS IN 1857.

February 2bth. — Ash Wednesday: all quiet

to- day. Torrents of rain fell as if to wash
away the pollution of yesterday. Up to this
day no rain had fallen since our arrival at
Algiers: but we were fortunate enough to
come at the tail-end of a long tempest.
Attended Divine service at the Protestant
*
chapel.
February 26th. —Invited
by the Rev. B. E.
to witness the wonders of some African jug-
glers they swallowed fire, like maccaroni, by
:

the yard, until their stomach must have been

a small volcano and cut themselves with
;

knives and lancets after the manner of the

priests of Baal : they charmed the deaf adder
with incantations, and shook it off when it fas-

tened upon them, as St. Paul did the venomous

beast at Mclita. In the afternoon my wife
went on the water with Lady S. V. H. I
hardly liked to trust them to the villanous
old MooY whose boat they hired he looked :

the personification of an Algerian pirate, and

had doubtless cut many a throat and scuttled
many a fine ship in his day. lie had lived at
Malta and had picked up a little English, of
which he was very proud. He affected a love
 :

OLD PIRATE. 117

for our countrymen saw Lord Exmouth bring

;

the Queen Charlotte to an anchor under the

very guns of the fort, and heard him send his
famous message to the Dey, in which he gave
him two hours to deliberate on the terms he
proposed. The time having elapsed and no
answer returned, the gallant admiral turned
to his crew and said, " Now fire away, boys."
Upon which the bombardment commenced and
soon brought the Dey to reason.
But the old corsair was more than garrulous
he was crafty and revengeful as any tiger.

He hated the French mortally, and could not

understand why they, after taking the city,

did not take themselves off as other conquerors

had done before them. On every occasion on
which he was hired, he remembered to point
out the weak parts of the French fortifications,
and suggested that if English powder was as
strong as it was formerly, the city was no
stronger now than in the days of Lord
Exmouth.
Naturally enough, the Arabs as well as the
Moors eye their conquerors with more fear than
affection : they are not however unobservant
of the conciliatory measures which the French
I 3
118 ALGIERS IN 1857.

have adopted towards them : they like the

conveniences of the omnibus, the picturesque

fountains constructed in and about the city;
and above all, the Moorish ladies delight in
the bon-bon shops and in the beautiful articles
of French bijouterie. Many a five-franc orna-
ment is preferred by them, for its elegant
desi2:n or fili2:ree fashion, to their own sub-
stantial jewels of priceless value.
February 2Sth. — The news of Lord H.'s
death reached the city this day killed by a
:

fall from his horse in the hunting-field,^ in

which his father also died. The AVest Hiding
of Yorkshire will long lament its loss.

Witnessed a grand ceremony at Ali ben

Hamed's house ; to which Lord S., Yernon,
Severne senr., and myself, were especially
invited. Ali's daily supply of coffee from his
Cafe ]\Iaure, wliich was within three doors of
my lodgings, had established quite an intimacy
between us, and he liked to linger and tell us
any scraps of news that atfected his own
family or the Moorish community in general.
I never remember to have seen a grander
countenance than his; he was gentle as a
cliild, and yet his noble bearing expressed
 ;

MOORISH CIRCUMCISION. 119

every manly virtue Phidias would have

;

chosen him out of a thousand a jaunty :

turban of red silk surmounted his brow, and

he stood six feet high without his slippers.
One night his measured step on the staircase,
as he mounted with our coifee, sounded a little
more hurried than usual we had drilled him :

to knock at the door before entering, but on

this occasion be forgot the ceremony, and
stalked forward with the assurance of one who
had a tale to tell, and whose tale must com-
mand attention. " To-morrow night," said

he, " my son is to be circumcised : supper and

music will be prepared ; many friends will be

there; bring the Inglese."

" At what hour shall we come, Ali?" said I
" it will give me and my friends great pleasure

to be present at the fete."

" Supper from eight to twelve : the circum-
cision at midnight." Ali then deposited the
coffee and, with a salaam, withdrew to his
cafe. The Cafe Maure, of which he was the
proprietor, was a mere underground den, into
which no ray of light entered except by the
doorway : it was a shady retreat in every
sense of the word, but still in the oppressive

I 4
120 ALGIERS IN 1857.

heat of summer it must have been a grateful

one to his numerous Arab customers. His
coiFee too, "vvith a lump of refined sugar in it,

all for one sou, in fine quality and fragrance

was unsurpassable ; and Ali always knew the
exact moment for supplying the lighted coal
to the pipe, the fumes of which improve the
flavour of coff'ee as the taste of olives do that
of port wine. Such a man
would make as Ali
his fortune in London in ten years and in ;

another ten sport his hammer-cloth, and be

rewarded with a sheriff's gold chain. But to

the ceremony. Being anxious to see all that

was to be seen, we started early, but a dif-
ficulty arose with respect to Ali's family
mansion : no one knew and no one could be
found to tell us in what part of the Moorish
to"svn it was situated. "\Ye wandered about
for some time, like perturbed spirits, through
narrow and noiseless passages, up and down a
thousand steps in the almost perpendicular
streets, till at length a ^loor, understanding the
Sabir language^ if that can be called a language,
which is but a mixture of doggerel French,
Spanish, and Arabic used in Algeria, and divin-
ing the object of our visit, conducted us to the
 MOORISH CIRCUMCISION. 121

very door. Ali at home was a very diiFerent

man from Ali in his public capacity : instead of

receivinfr us with his usual humble salaam, he
welcomed us with the air of a grand duke, and
did his honours so admirably that we were all

charmed with manner and our

his pleasant

own hospitable reception. The company con-

sisted of forty or fifty Moors, dressed in gay
and holiday attire, but anything so sombre as
themselves I never yet saw. They squatted
on their hams in two rings, one within the
other ; but no man held converse with his

neighbour, nor, he knew him, cared to culti-

if

vate his acquaintance. If an English girl

could have popped in her head and seen these
grave men would have
seated in circles, she
concluded that a game of hunt-the-slipper was
about to be played and she would not have
;

failed to lament that so sprightly a sport

should have fallen into such dull hands.
Even the smoke from their pipes curled up in

lazy volumes, and seemed to hang about their

heads, as smoke does, previous to an impend-
ing shower, about the chimney pots of an
English house. Three musicians, raised upon
a dais above the company, soothed their ears
122 ALGIERS IN 1857.

with a drony and monotonous music, which

humour of the guests.
fully accounted for the

Then the instruments they used were of the

most grotesque appearance ; and if they did
not come out of the Ark, they must have
belonged to that Babylonian band which
boasted of the " sackbut, psaltery, and dulci-
mer " and if they did, no wonder the three
;

Jews gave such little heed to the royal decree

or to the vile music by which it was pro-
claimed. In the meantime, coffee and pipes
went round merrily, and the kou-koussou was
excellent. A huge bowl in the centre con-
tained this African food, and a small wooden
spoon being placed in the hand of each of the
guests, they were commanded to fall to and
feed. With the exception of tlie music, the
perfect silence of the assembly was what
struck me most. At home the clatter of the
meal drowns the music, if you are fortunate
enough to dine with a band ; but here it was
vice versd ; music alone was heard, all else was
noiseless.

The boy was a handsome, fine little fellow,

upon whom the rite was about to be practised;
he was literally dressed in a suit of purple and
 MOORISH CIRCUMCISION. 123

gold, and was of course the chief object of

attraction to all. He did not appear to look
forward to the ceremony with much alarm,
but his thoughts were probably diverted from
it by the music and novel scene before him.

"When the clock of the great mosque struck

twelve, which, by the way it did to the same
familiar tune played by the chimes of old
Carfax Church, at Oxford, his father, Ali,

took the lad gently in his arms and laid him

on a beautiful bed. No form of prayer, that
I could perceive, preceded the operation, but
the operator, a mere barber, stepped up and
the thing was done in an instant. Then a
wild shriek from the youth burst upon the
ear, but as quickly it was drowned by the
wilder cries of the women : these, hidden from
sight, maintained a continuous " hi, hi, hi, hi,"

in a high key that eifectually silenced all

other sounds. The friends then offered gifts,

every man according to his means ; and, for a
week afterwards, the little fellow walked
about the city holding up his apron to signify
what had taken place, and to catch the pieces
of money which the public cast into his lap.
These offerings frequently amount to a large
124 ALGIERS IN 1857.

sum, and serve the purpose of prentice-money

to start the boy in life. Islunael was circum-
cised by Abraham at the age of thirteen ; and,
following this example, the Moors and the
Arabs practise the rite from ten to that age :

the lad in question was just ten.

March 27id. — Yernon has already made a
small collection of African birds, but wishes
to increase it with a few specimens from the
marshes of the Metidja: so we agreed to run
all risks of fever and go together as soon as I
could obtain the necessary port-d'armes. This,
without any real difficulty, was a very trouble-
some affair to manage ; I was passed on, from
one to the other, by at least half-a-dozen civil

functionaries. The Prefecture, the Mairie, the

Registrar's Office required my personal at-

tendance ; and, after paying twenty-five francs,

it was two days before I secured it. The
system of the Circumlocution Office is evi-

dently not confined to our own country.

Vernon had obtained his port<Var7nes some
time ago with no trouble to himself: he had
simply requested the English Yice-Consul to
be good enough to get it for him, which, by
 SHOOTING IN THE MARSHES. 125

virtue of his official position, was at once done

through his servant.
March \th Yernon and I started betimes
this morning for the Maison-Carree ; three
small thorough-bred Arab horses, harnessed
abreast like horses of the sun, conveyed us
thither, in a public voiture, in something less

than an hour. One of them was a vicious

brute, and, as we sat by the driver on a kind
of low box, kicked into the middle of us with
right good will ; however, as he only did this
in going down hill, the driver took care to
keep him in a stretch-gallop whenever the
road required it, and so we suffered no da-
mage. On arriving at the Maison-Carree we
paid our ten sous apiece, had a cup of chain-
poreau at Felix's, and then sallied forth for the

chasse. Following the course of a small

brook, the waters of which were turbid and
unwholesome, we soon came upon the open,
uncultivated plain. An occasional snipe
whisked up, and, by flying in a straight di-

rection, right away, indicated that in front of

us we might expect to find the head-quarters,
not only of snipe, but of other wading fowl.
A gorse hawk, of remarkable size and beauty.
 ;

126 ALGIERS IN 1857.

and not unlike the gyr-falcon of tlie north,

flew out of a small reedy cover^ but we did
not get a shot at him ; then, not far from the
same spot, out skulked a jackal, which gave
Yernon a long shot, but he failed to " pot "
him even with an Eley's green cartridge he ;

was fairly out of range. Three lofty palm-

trees stood at some distance before us, near an
Arab gourbie, and within a few yards of them
the great marsh commenced. The cry of the
frogs was terrific, and could be heard at least
a mile oif some of them were so bloated and
:

large, that the picture in JEsop's Fables, of the

frog and the ox, seemed no longer a caricature.

If our Gallic neighbours have the same gas-
tronomic fancies in Algeria which they are
said to have at home, verily theirs are plea-
sant lines, they have pitched their tents in a
land of plenty.
On entering the marsh the danger of not
being able to find the way out of it was the
first difiUculty that occurred to both of us
but we discovered that by means of narrow
paths, formed by cattle passing through the
tall reeds, we occasionally caught glimpses of
the distant Atlas, and thus our landmark was
 SHOOTING IN THE MARSHES. 127

fixed. Snipe rose at every ten paces and gave

us capital shooting ; but we looked in vain for
a single specimen of a rare bird. The season
of mio-ration was about commencing-, and al-

though we did not succeed in springing them,

yet, doubtless, many strange birds had already
found, their way to this vast tract of reed and
sedge. The stork, the pewit, the heron, rose
at every crack of the gun ; but the egret and
the bittern lay all the closer for it. A team
of strong and wild English spaniels, rattling
through the cover and forcing the waders to
the wing, would have discovered many an or-
nithological wonder swarms of snipe and
;

plover would have darkened the air and then, ;

like the Spartans of old, we might have shot

in the shade. As it was, it was cruelly hot

and miasmatic the vapours of the marsh
;

were so offensive and so penetrating that they

seemed to enter the brain and to leave a taste
on the tongue that nothing could wash out.
A perpetual pipe, however, and occasional
nips of brandy served to rectify the foul exha-
lation and to neutralise its evil effects. Our
bag was a tolerably good one, but with a re-
triever it might have been first-rate how ;
128 ALGIERS IN 1857.

bitterly did Vernon regret the loss of his,

which had been stolen from him only a short
time since. Talk of the rogues of London
affected by Bishop's Act, they are all honour-
able men compared with the dog thieves of
Algiers. The better a dog is, the worse is his
master's chance of keeping him ; the only se-
curity is to chain him to his own bed-post.
When the grandfather of the present Duke of
Beaufort was anxious to obtain a hound of the
famous " Prodigal " blood, he sent an old
kennel feeder to Lord Yarborough's kennels
in Lincolnshire, and warned him, when he got
the hound, not to let him out of his sight
until he was back again safely at Badminton.
The man obeyed the order to the letter. It

was a week's journey in those days, and at

every hotel in which he passed the night he
led the hound to his chamber and chained him
to the bed-post. The ra^^e of the chamber-
maid and the abuse of the landlady can be
better imagined than described ; suffice it to
say, that at one inn he was absolutely beaten
with a broom and driven to the stable, where
he and his canine companion shared the straw,
and slept together in peace. The good old
 ;

CArT. locue's imperial collection. 129

duke was wont to say of his trusty servant,

that he was a great conqueror, for he had

fought his way from Lincoln to Gloucester,
and had only lost one battle.

March bth. — Went with Yernon to see the

famous collection of birds made by Captain
Loche, and preserved for the French Govern-
ment. Both the captain and his lady were
at home, and received us with much kindness.
Cases of birds of every genus and almost
every species filled the rooms, the staircase,

and the balcony of the old Moorish house

in which this distinguished naturalist lived.

Hawks, from the merlin to the great condor

Gallina}, from the three-toed Bedouin quail
to the ostrich of the desert ; every variety of
pigeon, from the booz, with his short mandi-
bles, to the great carrier of Constantino ; sing-

ing birds of sombre hue, and those without

song of exquisite plumage, gave us a treat of
which I had no conception. But that which
imparted to the collection a peculiar interest
was the by Madame
illustration supplied to it
Loche. Her anecdotes were matchless she had :

seen this bird killed, and that rescued from

the fangs of a cook she had watched night
;

K
 ;

130 ALGIERS IN 1857.

and day by her husband's traps, and when the

steel struck, the panther walked away with
the prey. Among the live birds, the grouse
of the desert were not the least remarkable
their sandy-colour and thickly feathered feet,
being true lagopoi, indicated the region in
which Nature had formed them to live. Then,
among beasts, there was a new species of
Zorilla, the Zorilla Vaillantii^ discovered by
Captain Loche. He belonged to the weasel
tribe, was marked with longitudinal bars of
])lack and white from his ears to his tail, and
had a black mask just over his eyes— a very
curious animal. The desert hare and an
elegant little fox-like beast {Fenneciis Cordo)
with tufted feet, a long brush, and a fine sand-
coloured skin were there; tame porcupines,
which placed their fore-paws on jMadame
Loche's lap, munched a biscuit from her hands
and seemed, witli their quills down, to be
rather good-tempered than otherwise. Vernon
and I were charmed with the collection j but
it would take a week to examine it, and an-
other week to describe it properly. There
was one feature, however, in this wonderful
menagerie which neither of us liked. On the
 :

CAPT. loche's imperial collectiox. 131

house-top were cliained two captive eagles,

deplumed, subdued, and dejected ! — could
thraldom go farther ? — the soaring eagle, the
companion of the sun, chained to a chimney-
pot ! in sight of his native mountains ! To be
in keeping, the captain should have had a
Kabyle chief chained to the adjoining stack I

there would have been strong sympathy be-

tween them, at least in one direction ; and the
picture of captivity would have then been
complete. It remains to be said, that the
genius of the collector was only equalled by
his modesty, and the variety of the collection
by the order with which was arranged.
it

Returned to my home, and soon afterwards

received the following note from Yernon
" There is to be a big boar-hunt to-morrow
at the Regaiah ; Prince Napoleon and perhaps
General Yussuff will be there, so the Bureau
Arabe turns out the Caids. I send on ; and
go to cover in a 'bus. Come, if you can
manage it."

March Qth. — Had I received an invitation

to dine with the Governor-General of Algeria
on this eventful occasion, the marshal would
K 2
 ;

132 ALGIERS IN 1857.

liave lacked one guest, at least, on the day

of the big boar-hunt. But he did not ask me,
fortunately for him. At five o'clock, a.m. the
carriage drove to the door, a light omnibus a
volonte, and picked up Captain Christie, Yernon
and myself. Both of my companions had
sent their horses on to the Regaiah over night,
but concluding, wrongly as it afterwards
appeared, that I should see as much of the
sport on foot, I forcbore to order a steed and ;

became a spectator rather than a participator

in tiie chassc. The meet at the cover side
was picturesque in the extreme ; but the never-
ending breakfast of the French must be dis-

cussed in the hotel, before business could be

done in the forest. That over, a council of war
was held by the mounted horsemen on the
line of country most favourable for the game.
Unluckily for me, the Fondouck side of the
forest was chosen, and away they went, best

pace, for at least four miles before they began

TO draw. Just then, a gentleman called
Riviere, himself on foot, overtook me, and vo-
lunteered to be my guide. " We have no oc-

casion," said he, " to follow the horsemen

let us cross this ravine, mount yonder hill, and
 A BOAR-HUNT. 166

then we shall command a perfect view of the

scene. Besides," added he, " the boars always
run for the mountains ; so we shall head them
and cut off their retreat." The whole thing
sounded so probable, that I gave a willing-
consent to the arrangement, and considered
myself fortunate in having so experienced a
man to direct me. In Brittany the boar-
hunters always load their guns with a balle-

marieej that is, with two balls screwed firmly

together and on the present occasion I charged
;

both barrels after the same approved fashion.

As we trudijed alono^ throuo-h the forest, in the
direction indicated by ]\[. Riviere, different

kinds of small game sprung up from under

our feet, such as the Barbary partridge, the
Bedouin quail, and the solitary snipe ; and,
had it not been for the undrawable balle-

mariee, I should certainly have bagged some

of them.
The forest resembled a wild-flower garden ;

a fairer spot was never seen ; the cactus and

myrtle, a beautiful white heath from three to
four feet high, and a lovely wild rose, all

in full flower, charmed the senses and filled

the air with perfume. As we gained the hill-

K S
134 ALGIERS IN 1857.

side, which commanded the ravine, we saw

with disgust that the hunters were still a good
league off, and did not appear to be drawing in

our direction. The atmosphere, however, was

so clear that we could see every movement as
distinctly as if we had been amongst them.
Suddenly, a wild roar rent the air ; it was the
simultaneous shout of a hundred Arabs as
they viewed a pig breaking cover and going
strai2;ht awav. In an instant the whole com-
pany were at full speed and riding hard at the

game ; but, ever as a horseman approached

him, the pig turned short, and the spear was
delivered in vain. Some of the Arabs, how-
ever, carried long guns, richly ornamented
with silver, and when they brought them to
bear he toppled over like a rabbit. But
he seemed possessed of a wonderful vitality,

that first boar ; for again and again he jumped

upon his legs, and the chase was renewed with
fresh vigour, till at length he fell riddled with
balls. The same fate awaited the seven suc-

cessive pigs that were found ; short grace and

hard lines upon all. Not one stood twenty
minutes before his pursuers; not one faced
about and charged fiercely in return ; but all
 A BOAR-HUNT. 135

turned tail from first to last, and died like

cowards, only seeking safety in flight. The

poor brutes were clearly overmatched from
" the find to the finish," and certainly would
have shown more sport, if they had been given
more law. It is the fashion abroad to laugh
at the inequality of our chase, " fifteen couple
of hounds, say they, after one little fox ;
" but
he who knows the difficulty of killing a fox,
when the scent does not serve, knows full well
that the wily animal thinks scorn of the odds
broujxht ao;ainst him on such an occasion, and
generally escapes with his life.

The rock, on which we were perched, gave

an ichnographic view of the whole scene ; but
as to a shot at a boar, that was a fabulous
delusion. At one time, however, when the
chase approached nearer than usual, the bushes
in the ravine below were distinctly heard
to crackle, and Riviere and myself cocked our
guns deliberately. But luckily the wild beast
poked his nose clear of the cover, and then we
discovered it was only a tame camel, browsing
on a small mimosa-tree. Had we slain the
camel, Riviere would have gone mad with dis-

gust, and I should never again have mentioned

E. 4
136 ALGIERS IN 18o7.

the halle-mariee in connection with the hunters

of Brittany.
On arriving at the hostelry, in the village
of the Eegaiah, eight fine pigs were extended
side by side in the stable-yard : many had
been wounded with a spear, but were finally
killed by ball. The hero of the day was a
boy about fourteen years of age, the son of
the Caid, a fine aristocratic Arab, who con-
ducted the beaters and organised the sport.
This manly little fellow rode a spirited horse,
and had handled both it and his rifle with
so much dexterity, that he managed to bowl
over two out of the eight boars. The mounted
Arabs, of which there were from eighty to a
hundred, treated us to a fantasia in the street
of the Regaiah. This exhibition was intended
to be a compliment to their friends, and a kind
of finish to the day's diversion. They rode
short races up and down the road, like men
demented ; they fired their long guns, and in-

stantly whirled them in the air above their

heads, then caught them again, while going at
full speed. Their white burnouses, streaming
behind and on either side of their horses,
looked like wings ; and, without a great
 THE HERO OF THE BOAR- HUNT. 137

stretch of imagination, were quite sufficient

to suggest the idea of a Pegasus to the
ancients. Generally speaking the horses were
sorry jades*, under-sized, under-fed, and cat-
hamed ; but they were easy goers, and beau-
tifully broken. The men were a beautiful
specimen of the geniLs homo : clean-limbed,
sinewy, handsome, and intelligent.
Our national taste had also its exhibition.

A Donnybrook hero was once heard to say,

there was no fun without a fight : on the
present occasion he would not have gone
without his treat. But the hero in this case
was, 1 believe, a Scotchman. Considering him-

* The Minister of War, in his Eeport, thus alludes to

the improvement already produced in the breed of horses
in Alf^eria :
—
" The attempts of the Government in this
direction date from the government of Marshal the Duke
d'lsly but the greatest impulse has been given under
;

that of the present Governor-Generah The creation of

depots of stallions either belonging to the State or to the
tribes, theestablishment of races at the principal towns
of the three provinces, and the granting of premiums for
the best horses produced, have been attended with the
best effects. The last competition for premiums shows
in the fullest manner the great improvement which has
taken place, and the valuable resources which France
may draw from Algeria for remounting her light cavalry."
138 ALGIERS IN 1857.

self aggrieved at the imposition of a villanous

IMaltese, he declined paying his demand. The
latter had then the temerity to call him an
English Jew, upon which he was at once
levelled to the dust by the fist of the indig-
nant Scot. But the Maltese, as an English
subject, showed fight, — and did fight despe-
rately. However, the ofi5.cers of the Chasseurs
d'Afrique very kindly interfered, and put an
end to the offensive aff'air. General Yussuff
was not present, but the prince was, and de-
ported himself right manfully and pleasantly
throughout the day.
March 10th. —
Went to the Bains Maures,
in the Rue d'Etat-Major. Sciatica and rheu-
matism are said to be cured by these baths.
But the whole thing is a misnomer baths
;

they are not, but simply vapour rooms,

in which you breathe with difficulty, and
feel as if you were becoming sodden, like an
over-steamed potato. I never before under-
stood what was meant by a " good strapper."
A brawny nigger uses a " swab " upon you
with such vigorous effect that your skin
literally shines like that of a horse in con-
dition when subjected to similar treatment.
 THE BAINS MAURES. 139

But although elbow-grease is suitable to the

ribs and skin of a horse, it may be a little too
strong for the parchment of a human being.
When extended on a kind of gridiron, side by
side with an asthmatic French gentleman, he
said, jocosely : " If I escape alive from this place,
I shall be in good health for months to come."
He had suffered the remedy, and certainly de-
served the cure. The bed after the bath was
a real luxury ; a pipe, a cup of coffee, and an
hour's sweet sleep completed the process. But
the Moorish ladies have a kind of pic-nic at
the baths : they bring baskets full of pro-
visions and bon-bons, and usually devote the
whole day to this their chief indulgence. If
anything could wash a nigger white it would
be the scrubbing and steaming practised in
these baths. For my part, I was like a red
Indian for a week afterwards ; but I felt none
of the invigorating effects said to be produced
by the heat and rough manipulation to which
I submitted. The Frenchman mentioned
above was a Monsieur Tennyson he usually ;

passed his winters at Algiers, his summers

at Aix in Savoy, or Cagliari in Sardinia. He
had travelled aU through France, with the
140 ALGIERS IN 1857.

hope of finding a resting place, but found

none in which he could breathe without dis-

tress. He was better at Algiers than in any

other climate ;
yet even here he found it

necessary to take an occasional Moorish bath,

which always relieved him, and set him up for
some months. I have rarely seen so fine a
frame as his, especially about the chest. He
was full sixty years of age, and from his
robust appearance I should never have sus-
pected that he was an asthmatic subject.
A strange lot of Arabs arrived in the city
this day ; they were called Mozabites, from
the country of Beni-Mzab, which is due
south of Algiers, and on the borders of the
Great Desert. On inquiring, I found these to
be merchants of considerable wealth and en-
terprise, their " speciality ''
being wool of a
fine merino character. The Mozabites are
the Kabylcs of the plain, being, like them,
descendants of the ancient Berbers, speaking
a dialect of the same language, and having
similar habits and institutions.

The huge coil of brown camel's hair rope,

wound round the head of the Arab, is worn in
honour of the Prophet, who was himself a camel-
 THE MOZABITES. 141

driver. It is not altogether an encumbrance,

for it helps to keep off the burning rajs of the
sun, supports the head when reclining on the
hard ground, and so serves the double part of
sombrero and pillow at the same time.
Saw by some Arabs
a huge hyoena, caught
in a cave near the town only a few days
since. They tell incredible stories of the appe-
tite of this animal ; that one can eat up a
horse for his supper. If it be true, he must
have some engine in his stomach to compress
the food, as tons of hay are compressed into a
very small compass by means of a patent
machine. Apropos to voracity; —a gallant
captain of a certain crack regiment of dra-
goons, who was said to be the least well-
informed officer in his Majesty's service, had
the following story told of him by his brother
officers.

One day at mess, " Dan " volunteered in-

formation on natural history, to the amaze-

ment of the whole table. " The rhinoceros,"
said he, '*
must have a wonderful appetite ; he
can eat a whole elephant at a meal."
"Who told you that, Dan?"
 :

142 ALGIERS IN 1857.

" I read it in a book," said he, " and I

know it's true."

"Do you?" said the inquirer; "perhaps
"
you would like to produce your autliority ?

" Certainly," said the other ; and away he

skipped to his rooms for a book, the production
of which caused the most outrageous mirth.
It was one of those small twopenny books
which are published for the use of children :

there was the picture of an animal at the top,

and a short description of it at the foot of
each page. When the roar of the merriment
had subsided a little, Dan was called upon to
read out, which he proceeded to do forthwith
" The rhinoceros is a very voracious animal;
he can eat as much as an elephant at a meal."
Having read thus far, he put the book in
his pocket with an air of triumph ; and it was
some time before his brother officers could
get him to understand that the passage ad-
mitted of a different reading.
When tlie hunters enter a cave in search
of a hyiena, the glare of liis eyes is the lamp
which enables them to take a good shot at
liim in the dark. And so it is with the lion.

Gerard always chose the darkest night for

 A day's sport. 143

attacking him, for then, according to that

notable hunter, his eyes shone brightest, and
afforded the best mark for the bullet.
March 16th. —
Shot with Lord S. and
Vernon near Rhuiba. Killed a few quail, and
had a good hour at some red-throated grebe.
AVe found them in a long pond, among the
palmettas, behind the village ; and had it not
been for an Arab, who Avas " tenting " a herd of

cattle, the grebes would have beaten us ; as it

was, not a bird of them escaped. The Arab

doffed his burnous and took to the water, as
if ithad been his native element then, with a ;

splash and a shout, he compelled the grebes to

rise and to pass within shot of us. What
became of his cattle in the mean time we did
not know, nor did he seem to care. The Arab
led me, at my request, to a stream of sweet
water; and on my deeming it advisable to
mix a little brandy with it, he fixed his eye
on my flask and begged a draught. I ex-
plained its nature, but malgre the Prophet,
on my handing him the liquor, he took a
heavy pull at it. But he seemed to have
strange scruples about some bread and cheese
which I proposed to share with him: the
144 ALGIERS IN 1857.

bread he proceeded to masticate without in-

quiry, but the cheese awakened his gravest

suspicion. He turned it over and over, smelt
it and examined it Avith a queer expression
of cunning and alarm ; then, pointing up
"
to heaven, demanded if it were " sanglier ;

and upon my assuring -him it was not, he

devoured it like a ravenous wolf.
Lord S. described a capital day's shooting
which he and some friends had had near
Koleah. They found woodcock and wild-
fowl of various kinds in such abundance that
they killed about fifty head in a few hours.
Koleah, which is eleven leagues from Algiers,
was totally destroyed by an earthquake in
1825; but it has since been rebuilt by the
French, and now boaststwo or three com-
fortable hotels, from which the finest wild
shooting in Al^jeria mifi-ht be obtained. The ad-
vertised expense of a bachelor en pension at the
Hotel de la Regence is " 70 francs jmr mois et

aii-dcssus." The panther is not unfrcquently

found in the neighbourhood of Koleah : but
from conversations I have had with French
sportsmen, it appears they dread an encounter
with this animal far more than with the lion.
 A XEGRO F^TE. 145

Even a tree is no refuge from a wounded

panther ; he climbs it like a cat, and as long
as life lasts, never ceases to follow the object
of his revenge. Gerard himself loved a lion,

but dreaded the panther.

March l^th. — The weather warm and com-
fortable, like a fine June day in England.
Witnessed a Xegro Fete at Mustapha In-
ferieur: the whole English community were
present, and enjoyed the scene amazingly. It

was held in a sandy nook of the beautiful

bay of Algiers ; and, from the number of
vehicles, and the unbroken string of pedes-
trians, extending from the Babazoun to the
chosen spot, there could be no doubt of its

popularity among the holiday seekers of that

city. In was a regular Derby day.
fact, it

A vast concourse of tents of every shape and

fashion occupied the ground Moorish ladies
:

in crowds veiled to the very eyes, negroes and

negro-women, Arabs and Europeans, mingled
together to witness the celebration of this
heathen rite. The day was dedicated to " the
Saint of unfortunate women ;
" and to his
honour an ox, a cock, and other anin^als were
sacrificed in presence of the spectators. The
L
 ;

146 ALGIERS IN 1857.

little OX, bedecked with flowers, and all un-

conscious of the fate that awaited him, was
the great object of attraction to the ladies,
who vied with each other in supplying him
with handfuls of green clover, which he de-
voured as rapidly as it arrived.

" Pleased to the last, he crops the flowery food.

And licks the hand just raised to shed his blood."

The negroes danced in rings to the mono-

tonous music of the tom-tom : the ox was
slain, and his blood sprinkled on the faces of
those enffaojed in the sacrifice : then the ne-
groes danced again ; and as the music grew
livelier, the dance became faster and faster,
till at length, in a frenzy, some cast themselves
into the sea, while others rushed in madly to
save them. After this exhibition, the ox,
roasted whole, was the pihce de resistance in
the feast that followed. ]\I. Franco Ravan,
the Portuguese consul at Algiers *, enter-
tained a large party of English residents at
luncheon, and most hospitably did he do it

while from the roof of his IMoorish house,

* Monsieur Ravan is entitled to the writer's best

thanks for the many nets of kindness and courtesy which
he met with at his hands.
 ;

ANOTHER BOAR-HUNT. 147

which was contiguous to the ground, Lady

S. V. H. and the ^Marabout's hidy made some
capital sketches of the Negroes' Fete.
March 2(jth. — Shot quail with M. Ravan
and Lord S., in the direction of Fondouck
killed spotted galinule, solitary snipe, calendar
lark and quail ; and had a bountiful roast of
the latter at Madame Hoche's, where Vernon
joined us at dinner. Slept that night at
Fondouck, and found very comfortable quar-
ters at Madame Hoche's hotel ; but Vernon
declared he was phle-botomised.
March 27th. —Visited a Cafe Maure outside
the walls of this small fortified town, and
found it a bivouac des Indigenes. Returned
to breakfast, and then started for a boar-hunt.
Under the direction of two Arab guides,
we crossed the rapid river of Oued-Kremiz,
and made straight for Ben-hadjel (the Son
of the Partridge) in the forest of the Re-
gaiah. About 200 yards below the point
at which we forded the stream, were three
Bedouin Arabs attempting to force a camel
to take the water. The turbid and impetuous
torrent, uncertain in depth and rocky in its
channel, had more terror for the timid beast
L 2
148 ALGIERS IN 1857.

than all the shouts and blows with which he

was urged to proceed : he groaned aloud, as
much from the danger in front, as from the
infliction which he suffered in the rear. At
length, human perseverance prevailed ; and
he landed on tlie opposite bank without
trouble. It is said of the camel, but with
what truth I am not prepared to state, that,
unlike all other quadrupeds, he is unable to
swim naturally; and that swimming is to him,
as it is to man, an artificial accomplishment.
We crossed a spur of the little Atlas and
rode throuoh some wild and mao^nificent
scenery before we reached the rendezvous.
Wherever there was water, the rhododendron
flourished in the wildest profusion, and on
the hill-side the eye was dazzled with tho
double-blossomed broom, the cestus, and white
heather. Fifty mounted Arabs came to the
meet, accompanied by at least a hundred foot
beaters. These drew tlie covers in line, at
a distance of ten yards from each other and ;

did it just as metliodically as a company of

ra<Tamufhns would draw a pheasant cover in
our own country. How, with their naked legs
jind long burnouses, they managed to face the

lentisks, tamarisks, and prickly brushwood

 ANOTHER BOAR-HUNT. 149

without being scarified and torn to tatters,

was a mystery to all of us. O'er hill and dale,

through goiles and ravines, they maintained

an unbroken front ; shouting to the boar to
show himself, pitching huge*stones into every
hover that was likely to hold him, and banging
the bushes with a myrtle club : no haitue
could have been more perfect. On the out-
skirts were the horsemen, armed with a rude
gun and a ruder spear, prepared to give chase
as soon as the game broke cover. The wiry
steeds, all panting and eager for the sport,
evidently anticipated a burst, and were with
difficulty restrained by the riders. After
drawing for at least an hour, we came to a

hollow dingle, dark with the wild olive and

overgrown with tangled creepers ; it seemed
the very homestead of a pig. And sure enough
there were four deep in its recesses : in went a
stone and out they came, heads and tails in the
air, in a terrible hurry ; the short grunt and
the pricked ear expressing the alarm they felt

at this unceremonious visit. Three did not

like the look of the odds against them, so

headed back and disappeared again in the

dingle ; the fourth, a brave hog, went a bounder
L 3
150 ALGIERS IN 1857.

over the liill, and seemed, as he faced the

" rocky open," to say " little I value you all."
My halle-mariee was rammed home, and strik-
ing both spurs into my horse's flanks, I
crammed for a 15^d, anxious to see all that
Avas to be seen, and equally anxious, if pos-
sible, to kill the boar. For fifteen minutes
the pace was as good as it usually is with
foxhounds ; and I never saw much harder
riding. The rough country, bestrewn with
blocks of stone and abounding with clumps
of brushwood, offered no impediment to the
sweep of the chase, the horses shortened or
lengthened their strides with wonderful adroit-
ness, as the pig turned, or the nature of the
ground required it. In the meantime several
shots had been fired and several spears hurled
without eflxict ; the wind and pace of the pig
were telling upon the horses, and out of the
many that started there were not more than
five or six who now figured in front and lived
with the chase. Twice or three times I pulled
up my horse, and put up my gun to take a
crack at the flyer ; but, in an instant, as I
slackened my Arab horseman took
speed, an
up the running, got up to the pig, and I dared
 ;

AKAB HORSEMANSHIP. 151

not shoot at the one, lest I should hit the

other. At last, not liking to lose my place,
I slung the gun over my back, and despairing
of the honour, I rode for the pleasure of the
chase. For forty minutes that pig stood in
front of the field, going a cracker throughout
and had it not been for a foot Arab, who
headed him and cut off his retreat towards a
deep cover, he would certainly have escaped
with his life. The Arab dropped upon his
knee as the pig approached, then, within
twenty yards, drew the trigger and rolled him
headlong in the dust. In days gone by, I
have seen Limpetty* on " Jack Shepherd,"
riding with a loose rein and looser seat,

through a clitter of rocks on Dartmoor, with

as little concern for his own or his horse's life

as if both were immortal ; and I have seen

a horseman riding at a red deer a whole field
before the Baron's hounds, they running on
scent and he in view ; but I never met a more
determined set of riders than those Arab
horsemen in the wilds of Algeria. Surely,
the blood of their forefathers exhibits itself

* Limpetty is huntsman to Mr. Trelawny, the well-

known master of hounds in the West of England.

*i.4
152 ALGIERS IN 18.57.

in them : the hunters of the Atlas are

still the true sons of ancient Numidia. The
stragglers, who, from want of condition in
their steeds, could not live with the first flight,
dropped by degrees for at least twenty
in
minutes, and among them came, to my un-
bounded surprise, our old friend the camel,
still sobbing and groaning as he had done at
the river's side. His troubles had now in-

creased ; his three tormentors were mounted

aloft on his back, the one in front carried a

long gun, and the business of the others was

to bang him forwards with heavy clubs : the
poor beast was in evil case with his human
freight ; he was a gentle animal and lean
withal, and I fully expected to see him come
do"\vn under his burden.

We then found another boar, which affbrded

a burst of ten minutes over the open, and then
was shot down. After this, we bid adieu to
the kaid and his Arabs ; and with many thanks
on our part, and many kind replies on theirs,

we turned our horses' heads towards Fondouck,

and then trotted homewards.
The next time I hunt boar in the forest of

the Regaiah, my sole weapon shall be a re-

 FAUCHEUX'S REVOLVER. 153

volver, one of Faucheux's make, having six

chambers and one barrel about ten inches in
length. This deadly article is now supplied

to the French navy, and for the following

reasons is far superior to any of the revolvers
which have yet been invented. It is perfectly

simple in construction ; it is loaded at the

breech instantaneously with a cartridge which
contains powder, conic ball, and percussion
point all together ; it has a circular plate in
the shape of a saucer, which protects the
nipples and renders an accident almost im-
possible and lastly, it handles well and has
;

a capital sight. The price of this weapon,

complete, is only 125 francs, and for this sura
it may be purchased in the Rue Babazoun, at

a gunmaker's who alone has the privilege of

selling gunpowder in Algiers.

With Faucheux's revolver, a couple of

southern hounds having plenty of tongue and
not too much speed, and a horse safe on his

legs and light in hand, a man might have an

unlimited amount of sport at boars in Algeria.
But, if he aspire to rarer game, there is the
lion, the panther, the gazelle, the bustard, and

the ostrich, in the Tell and Sahara of that

154 ALGIERS IN 1857.

country. The chase of the ostrich is held in

high estimation, and is only followed by the
Arab aristocrat, who makes a long and ex-
pensive preparation for its enjoyment. For
some weeks before the time appointed for the
sport, the Arab feeds and trains his horses

with especial care ; and, unless their wind and

condition are perfect, they stand no chance
with the ostrich, he runs them out of sight.
This is exactly what is done in our own
country by good kennel management ; the fox
is overmatched by the condition of the hound.
There is a curious point of similarity between
the English sportsman and the aristocrat of
the Sahara ; he rides his second horse in the
chase of the ostrich as the other does in that
of the fox. But, if anything, he of the desert
has the advantage ; he posts his relay with such
a thorough knowledge of the running of his
game, that he rarely misses his mount ; where-
as the Meltonian makes a bad cast frequently,
and as frequently he finds his second horse
already half beaten by the bad management of
his groom. \\ hen the ostrich is blown in the

chase, the rider strikes him a sharp tap on his

featherless head, and at once deprives him of
 OSTRICH-HUNTING. 155

life, a small stick being Ins sole weapon. A

kous-koussoii, surmounted by cutlets taken
from the breast of the ostrich, is the royal dish

of the desert ; while the steam from the boiled

fat imparts an unctuous taste and gamy
flavour to the whole. The Arab of the desert
exchanges ostrich feathers for corn grown by
the Arabs of the Tell ; thus their value to the
former is incalculable, and, were it not for the
kous-koussou, they might follow the plan of
the Lincolnshire fen-men with very justifiable
advantage, that is, pluck the birds alive and
turn them out for another crop. A visitor,

anxious to witness the chase of the ostrich,

in order to obtain accommodation and ap-
proximation to the hunting-ground, should go
to Tougourt, the capital of thirty-five villages
in the Oasis of Oued-Rir, seventy-six leagues
from Biskra ; or to Leghrouat, a town of four
thousand inhabitants, south-west of Biskra ; or
to Gardaia, a town of the Beni-Mzab, easily
accessible from Algiers, all within the Algerian
Sahara, and consequently under the govern-
ment and protection of France.
For bustard and gazelle the sportsman need
not go so far afield: from Teniet-el-had or
156 ALGIERS IN 1857.

Boghar, military stations within three days of

Algiers, on the borders of the Algerian Sahara,
the gazelle is found in abundance, and through-
out the Sahara the bustard is equally plentiful.
When Vernon visited Tenict-el-had, he found a
caravanserail lialf-way between Millianah and
that place: the quarters he described as suffi-

ciently good for a bachelor, and the country

around truly charming for the hunter — great
quantities of game of every description roamed
in the vicinity ; the tracks of the boars were like
those of rabbits in a warren ;
partridges were
so numerous that the Arabs knocked them
down M'ith sticks ; while an occasional lion
startled the wanderer, and roared defiance
against the advance of civilisation. But the
sport of sports, novel to the English gentleman
of modern days, though familiar to him of old,
is that of liawking. Among most of the tribes
on the southern confines of Algeria the pastime
is pursued -with much ardour and ceremony;
it is, however, exclusive, and is enjoyed only
by the Four kinds of hawks, one
aristocrats.

of which is the famed Barbary Falcon, are

used for the purpose, and these are trained
with consunuTiate craft and ability. Of course
the open and treeless plains of the Sahara
 HAWKING. 157

afford facilities for the enjoyment of this sport

such as few countries could supply.
JSi^o Eno^lishman who has time and means at
his disposal, and who has any predilection for
field sports, should visit Algiers Avithout going
to see the noble falcons of the tribe Oulad-
Sidi-Sheikh, or those of the Hameian-Gharaba
tribe in the south-western extremity of the
Little Sahara. The docility of the birds, the
rapidity of their flight, and the fatal swoop, as
I have been informed by an eye-witness, is a
marvel of perfection, and exhibits no less the
ingenuity of man, than the dominion given to
him " over the fowl of the air, and over every
living thing that moveth upon the earth."
April \bth. — Shot quail in the Metidja
plain, with Vernon and Ravan, the Portuguese
consul. Killed Bayonne's crake, a rare bird
of the galinule tribe : also two spotted gali-

nules, several small yellow wagtails {Motacilla

neglecta), and a bagful of quail. The plain
resembled a beautiful green carpet, spangled
with colours of the richest hue ; a small blue
iris, the convolvulus minor, a bee orchis,
mallows, and marygold, in profusion around
us. The calendar lark, resembling the pewit
 ;

158 ALGIERS IN 1857.

in the heavy flap of his wing, and indicating

thereby a similarity of habit, being always
found in the marshes, mounted aloft, and
sang- us some sweet son^-s after the fashion

of our own native wood-lark. Vernon bagged

a specimen or two. but agreed in thinking it

was a sin to slay so sweet a minstrel.

Entered an Arab gourbie, and had coffee
and pipes with some friendly Arabs they :

held the forefingers of the right and left hand

together, side by side, to signify that the
Inglese and Arabs were brothers.
Aj^ril IGth. — Felt two shocks of an enrth-
quake ; second very sharp. The inhabitants
rushed out in a great state of alarm, and many
would not enter their houses a^^ain durinor
the rest of the day. The china cups on our
shelves were shaken at least an inch from
the spot on which they originally stood, the
displacement being observable in the dust.
^lounted to the fourth etage of a French
Algerine house. It was a perfect menagerie
of human beings from top to bottom : — Jews,
Turks, Spaniards, Italians, Mahonese, French
the Jew and Gentile, in every form, dwelt
there. Tliese lofty, flimsy houses, built by
 MARSHAL RANDON's RETURN. 159

the French, when a violent earthquake does

come, will topple to pieces like a pack of
cards, and great will be the ruin thereof,

April I'^yid. — A grand ovation, with fire-

works, welcomed Marshal Randon's return
from France this day. He appears to be very
popular as a Governor ; but the secret of this
demonstration consists, it is said, in the suc-

cess with which he advocated the necessity

of a railway in Algeria. The Emperor was
" satisfied that the wants of the colony re-

quired it, and that its construction should take

place accordingly." Whether this be the true
cause of the ovation or not, certain it is that
a railway is looked upon as the one great desi-
deratum necessary to the welfare of the colony.
And apparently there could be no more fitting
time than the present for such an important
work . Land is cheap ; the Kabyle war is hap-
pily at an end ; military penal labour is abun-
dant, and the prospects of the colony are al-

together cheering. Xow, then, is the time for

these Romans of the modern world to construct
their bridges, viaducts, and aqueducts, and to
outvie, as they can by the advancement of
science, even the works of their great proto-
 —

160 ALGIERS IN 1857.

types. But the late report of the Minister of

War, on the present state of Algeria (1857),
does not encourage the colonists to believe
that their hope of a railway will directly be
fulfilled. After referring to the Artesian wells,
which have been dug for the benefit of the
colony, and by which land hitherto unpro-
ductive has become fertile and luxuriant,
that report winds up in the following words :

" In whatever way I consider Algeria as

regards its native population, I have nothing
but improvement to announce to your Majesty.
The country in a state of tranquillity, roads in

course of construction, increase of cultivation,

public works in progress, crimes and trans-
gressions diminishing, the Arab population
more inclined to obedience; every day, I may
say, rewards our efforts with fresh success.
Our moral influence even extends beyond our
sphere of action. Have we not this year seen

the chiefs of various tribes disseminated along

the route of Soudan, where they chiefly live
by plunder, who, moved by what they had
heard in their distant country, came to Algiers
in order to convince themselves, with their own
eyes, of the truth of the narratives which.
 MINISTER OF WAR'S REPORT. 161

brought over to their desert solitudes, had

pictured to them the glory and power of
France ? On leaving, they engaged to second
the efforts we are about to make in order to
open a commercial intercourse with the king-
doms of Timbuctoo and Haoussa. The arrival
at Algiers of the Tooareg chiefs, is, in my
opinion, the most convincing proof of the
respect which the French name commands
among the native populations. There still

remains much to be done, no doubt, in order

completely to attach the Arabs to French civi-

lisation. But are not the results we have ob-

tained a pledge for the future ? In so delicate
a task, the most difficult part was to surmount
the antipathy of race and religious jealousy.
All would have been endangered had we list-

ened to the unreflecting impatience of those

who wanted, without any transition, and by
sheer force, to bring the natives under the rule
of the laws and customs of France. We have
found the means of rendering success certain,
by letting time and private interest play the
principal part in this transformation of the
Arab race. It is our duty now to enter more
fully into the course which the experience of
M
162 ALGIERS IN 1857.

tlie last few years has taught us to be the

best."
A2:)ril 'iZrd. — St. George's Day. The tribe
of Beni-Khelil made a grand pilgrimage to
the Marabout's tomb, near jMoustapha. A
fantasia, or display of horsemanship, astonished

a vast number of spectators, amongst whom

the Moorish ladies of Algiers were not the
least conspicuous. These sat in rows together,
and held communication not even with each
other ; but their eyes spake volumes. Encased
in haiks and soft envelopcments, all whiter
than the driven snow, the}^ looked the per-
sonification of innocence ; the eyes of some,
however, peeped forth brighter than any
Vestal lamp, and conveyed a suspicion that
nothing of snow, beyond the colour of their
garments, appertained to these attractive
ladies. A I'^rench officer made a foolisli at-

tempt to address one of them ; but he could

not have said four words, before a well-

dressed ^loor jumped upon his legs and ap-

proached him with a menacing attitude. In
an instant, a police officer, whose duty it was
to superintend the Moorish ladies, interfered;
 ;

EETURN TO MARSEILLES. 163

and by requesting the officer to move off,

quieted the rising storm.

—
May dth. The weather had now become so
warm, that the greater part of the English resi-
dents had already left Algiers. Indeed, with
the exception of ourselves, and the M'D.'s,
Vernon and his lady alone remained. This
day, then, we embarked on board the "Osiris,"
a fine and well-appointed steamer belonging
to the " Messageries Imperiales " Company
and bidding adieu to Algiers with much re-

gret, we arrived at Marseilles in forty-four

hours, after an easy and delightful voyage.

THE END,
 LOKHOS :

rillXTED nV SPOTTISWOOPK A«n Cf).

^tW'-STRBET SqOAKE.
 A QATAL.QQc'GW^
OF

NEW WORKS IN GENERAL LITERATURE

PUBLISHED BY

LONGMAN, BEOWN, GEEEN, LONGMANS, ANP ROBERTS,

39, Paternoster Row, London.

CLASSIFIED INDEX.
Agriculture and Rural Affairs. Parry's 'AdmirRll Memoirs . . . 11
Russell's Memoirs of Moore . .20
Southey's T.ife of Wesley . . . 2fi
BaTldon on Valuing Rents, &c. " T.ife and Correspondence . 2B
Cecil's Sturl Farm . '*
Select Correspondence . . 26
Hoskyns'sTaloa Stephen's Fcrlesiast'cal Biography . 2S
Loudon*« AericuUure Strickland'sQueens of England . . 27
LoVs Elements of Agriculture Svdney Smith's Memoirs . . 2S
Sirmonds's /•Admiral) Alemoirs . . 27
Arts, Manufactures, and Archi- Taylor's Lovola
" 27
Wesley 27
tecture. Waterton's Autobiography and Essays 31
Bourne on the ''crew Propeller . . f
Brande'!" Dictionarv of «cience, &c. (
Books of General Utility.
" Oreanic Chemistry .

Chevrenl on PoUur '

. . Ac*on's l^reid-Book
CresT'R Civil Fneineerina " Cro!.;ery-Book
Fairtiiim's Information for Fncineers .
Black's Treatise on Brewing .

Gwilfs F.nrvrlopwdia of Architecture Cabinet Oaiet'fer .

Harford-? Plate? from M. Anaelo . " I.awver

Humnhrryi's Parables Illuminated Oust's Invalid's Own Rook
Jameson's "^arred and Leeendary Art Gflharfs I.osic for the Million
" Commonplace- Book Hints on Etiquette .

Konie'« Pictorial life of Luther . How to Nurse Sick Children . . . \3

I.oudi>n*s Rural Architecture . Hudson's Excutor's Guide . . .14
MacDousall's Theory of War " on Makin? Wills . . . 14
Malan'« Aphorisms on Drawing . Kesteven's Domestic Medicine
Moseler's F.nsineerinff .
T.ardner's Cabinet Cyclopjpdia
Pie!<«e's Art of PerfumcrT London's Lady's Country Companion
Richardson's Art of Horsemanship Maunder's T-easurv of Knowl.-'dse
Scharfs Pate-Boolt of F.vents in Art " Bioeraphiral '''reasury
Scrivenor on the Iron Tr-nle , " Geosranhical Treasury
Steam-Ensine.by the Artisan Club " Scientific Treasury
Svmineton on the Beautiful . " Treasury of History
Ure's Dictionary of Arts, &c. . " Natural History . . . 1!) I

Piesse's Art of Perfumery . . . 23

"" |

Biography. Pocket and th" SluH . .

Prcroft's Enalish Reading .

Araeo's Li^es of Fci*»ntific >Ten Recce's Medical Guide .

Buckinchi.m's f.T. S.) Memoirs Rich's Companion to Latin Dictionary

Bunsen's Hippolttus Richardson's Art of Horsemanship

Gleie's Fssavs ....

Cro«se'! f Andrew) Memorials

Green's Priiircsses of F.neland

Kiddlf-'s Latin Dictionaries
Roset's Encli>h 1 hesaurua .
R. wton's Debater .
.

Harford'? I. fe nf Mirhael Anse'.^ Short Whist

Lardner's Cabinet Cvclopa>dia Thomson's Interest Tables .

Maunder's Bioeraphical Treasury Wfhstcr's DomesTic Economy

Memoirs of James Montcomery West on Children's Diseas<8 .

Merivale's Memoirs of Cicero Willich's Popular Tables

Mountain's (Col. Memoirs
I . Wilmot's Blackstone
 CLASSIFIED INDEX.

Schmiti's History of Greece .

Botany and Gardening. Southey's Doctor
Has-snlls Britisli Krp liter AIpic Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography
Hooker's Brilisli >)n
"
" "
Guidf
Kew Museum
*'
to Kew G.ir<)erift .

,
Sydney Smith's AVorks
•* Lectures
....
Lectures on French History .

Liiiflley'3 Introduction to Bot.iny . " Memoin

" TheorT of Horticulture
Loudon's Hortus Britannicus
**
Amateur G:'rdeneT .
. Taylor's Loyola
" "Wesley
Thirlwall's History of Greece
..... .
'* Treep and Shrubs . Thomas's Historical Notes
**

"
"
Gardening
PlanU .... Thornbur^
Tuwnsends
's Sbakspeare's England
State Trials
....
ers, &c
Self-lnstmction for Garde Turner's Anfrlo-Saxons
"
"
Middle Aees ....
Pereira's Materia Mcd:ca
nivers's Rose Amateur's Guide
Wilson's Britisli Mosses .
.
Sacred History of the World
Tehse's Austrian Court
Wade's Englan.l's Greatness
....
.
.

\Vhiielo' ke's Swfdish Embassy

Chronology. ^'ounij's Christ of History
Blair's rhn.noloeieal Tallies .

Brewer's Historical Atlas Geography and Atlases.

Bunsen's Ancient Ei;ypt Brewer's Historical Atlas
Calendars of English Mate Papers Ruller's Genqraphv and Atlases 'i .
Haydn's Beatson's Index Cabinet Gaiitteer '

Jaquemet's C'hronoloijy .
Johnston's Gfneral Gazetteer
Nicolas's Chronology of History .
M'Culloch's Gefpraphical Dictionary .
Maunder's Treasury of Geography
Commerce and Mercantile Murray's Encvclnprpdia of Geo^aphy .
Affairs. Sharp's British) Gazetteer

Gilbart's Treatise on Banking; 11

I.orimer'i ^tmns Master Matmer
.

.
,

. 15
Juvenile Books.
Macleods Bankine 18 Amv Herbert
M'l^uUdch's Commerce and Navigation
Fcrivennr on the Iron Trade . . .24
.28
18 Cleve Hall
Earl's Daugbter fTlie) ....
.....
Thomson's Interest Tables
Tooke's History of Prices ...
. .

28
Experience of Life
Gertrude
Hoivitt's Bov's Country Boole
" (Mary) Children's Year
Criticism, History, and MemoirH. Ivors
.

Blair's Chron. and Historical Tables . 6 Katharine Ashton

Brewer's Hii-toricnl Atlas
Bunsen*6 Ancient EQypt
*•
Hippolvtus'
l.aneton Parsona);e
Margaret Percival .

Stepping-stones to Knowledge for the

...
Burton's II istorv'i.f Scotland .
young
Calendars of Knelinh State Papers
Chapman's Gustarus Adnlphus
Connnllj'B S.ipprrs and Miners
Medicine and Surgery.
Con\liearo and Mowsnn's St. Paul Brnilie's rsTrhoIi.giinl Inquiries .

Fisclier's Francis Bacon

Glcic:"8 Essays
Gurney'ft Historical Sketches
.... . Bulls Hints to Mothers .
" Management of Children
Copland's DictionarT of Medicine
.

Herschel's Essays and Addresses Cust's Invalid's Own Book .

JpfTrry's ( I.orri)'rontrihutions Holland's Mental Phvsiolnor .

Kemble's A nolo Saxons . " Midi. a1 No'tes iind Reflections
Gardner's Cahin* t Cyclnnwdia How to Nurse Sick Children
Macaulaj's Critical nnd Hi^t. Essays Kestevf Medicine
" Hi»tnry of England Pereir
" Sppfchrs Iter..
Mackintosh's Wisrrllanenus Works '•rCnre
Ili-t..ry of Kngliind , fancy .
' <l Dictionary

lilsUiry
Miscellaneous Literature.
iuidic
'.
I'.ncnn'sfiord Works I .

Milncr sChuich lliaU.ry . Uroui'ham's H.ord) Acts and Dills

Mo.. re's fThnmasi Memoirs, Ac. Defence of Krlipu oj Faith .
M'lrr t C-rV l.itFiature Echl -e of FAi.b
'
' ir of nerolution Grig- I' ' •"' "^"rial Essays
ndencp

1 i 'ictionarips
l;r.i.-..rs . 1 ..ITS from Eilinb. Reriew HST
Koget's Engl.shTbesaunu . HoiliHtiil'o Menial I'hyMology
 CliASSIFIED INDEX.

Hooker's Kew Guides . . . .13 Conybeare and Howson's St. Paul

Howitrs Rural Life of England . . 13 Cotton's Instructions in Christianity
" Visits to Remarkable Places . 16 Dale's Domestic Liturgy
Hutton's 100 Years Ago . . .1-4 Defence o( Eclipse of Faith .

Jamfson's CommonpUce-Book . . 14 Discipline

Jeffrey's ('Lord) Contributions . . 15
Johns's Land or Silence and of Darkness 15
Last of the OW Squires . . . .22
Earl's Daughter (The)
Eclipse of Faith ....
.

Englishman's Greek Concordance

" Heb. & Chald. Concord.
" Speeches ....
MacauUj's Critical and Hist. Essays . 17
^lackintosh's Miscellaneous Works .
17
18
Experience CThe) of Life
Gertrude
ilairland's Church in the Catacombs . 13 Harrison's Light of the Fori^e
Martineau's MiscelUuies . , . 19 Hook's Lectures on Passion ^Veek
.21 Home's Introduction
Aloore's t'hurch Cd^es
Pycroft's English Readini;
. , .

... 23 ** Abridgment of ditto

Hue's Christianity in China
to Scriptures
-

Riddle's Latin Dictionaries

Rou-ton's Debater
...
Rich's Companion lo Latin Dictionary 23
24
24
Humphreys's Parables Illuminated
Ivors, by the .\uthor of Amij Herbert
.

Seawaril's Narrative of his Shipwreck . 24 Jameson's Sacred Legends

**
Sir Roger De Coverley . . ,.25 Monastic Legends
*'
Smith's Rev. Sydney) Works . . 26 Legends of the Madonna
Southey's Commonplace-Books , , 26 ** on Female Employment
" The Doctor, &c. . .26
. Jeremy Taylor's Works . '
.

Stephen's Essays
StoWs Training Sys^tem
.

Thomson's 'Laws of Thought

.....26
. . .

. ,
2"
28
Katharine Ashton
Konig's Pictorial Life of Luther
Laneton Parsonage .

Townsend's State Trials . . . . 28 Letters to my Unknown Friends

Tonee's Enirlish-Greek Lexicon " on Happiness
"" Latin fJrudus ... . .

.32
32
Lyra Gcrmanica
Zumpt's Latin Grammar . . .32
Maguire's Rome ....
Macnau^^ht on Inspiration

Maitland's Church in the Catacombs

Natural History in general. Margaret Percival .
Martineau's Christian Life
CatloWs Popul:>r Conchnlo^y . . 8 '*
Hyrnns
Ephemera and Young on the Salmon . 10 Merivale's Christian Records
Garralfs Marvels of Instinct . . . 11
Milner's Church of Christ
Gosse's Natural History of Jamaica . 11
Moore on the Use of the Body
Kirby and Spence's Entomoloiry , . 15 *' *' Soul and Body
Lee's' Elements of \:ilurai History 15
*s Man and his Motives
, *'
Maundrr's Natural History . . ,19 Morning Clouds
Turton's She.Is of the British Islands . 28 Nealf's Closing Scene
Vtin der Hoeven's Handbook of Zoology 31 Pouell's Christianity without Judaism

....
.
Waterton's Essavs on Natixral History . 31 " on the Claims of Kevclation
Youatt's The Hog
" The Horse .... 32
32
Readings for Lent .
" Confirmation
Riddle's Household Prayers
One- Volume Encyclopsedias and
Dictionaries.
tament ....
Robinson's Lexicon to the Greek Tes-

Saints our Example

r/.aine's Rural Sports .
Sermon in the Mount
Sinclair's Journey of Life
Brande's Sricnce, Literature, and Art
Coplarids Dictionary of Medicine Smith's j Sydney) Moral Philosophy
" (G.V.) Assyrian Prophecies
Cresy's Civil Ensineering
" (G.) "Weslevan Methodism
Gwiit's Archit*rcture " (J,) Shipwreck of St. Paul
Johnston's Geozniphical Dictionary
Southey's Life of Wesley
L<Oudon's AericuUure
Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography
** Rural Architecture
Taylor's Loyola
*'
"
"
Gardening
tplants ....
Trees and Shrubs
Theotog
tes lev
. .

M'CnUoch'8 Geographical Dictionary Thumb Bible (The)

" Tomline'a Introduction to tlie Stble
Dictionary of Commerce
Murray's Encyclop«edia of Geography Turner's Sacred History .
Sharp's British Gazetteer
Vre's Dictionary of Arts. &c.
AVebster's Domestic Economy
.
" Mystery ....
Young's Christ of History

Eeligious and Moral Works. Poetry and the Drama.

Amy Herbert ....
Bloomfield's Greek Testament
Aikin'9 (Dr.) British Poets
Arnold's Merope
.

Calvert's Wife's Manual . " Poems

Cleve Halt Baillie's (Joanna^ Poetical "Works
Conybeare's Essays . Calvert's Wife's Manual .
 .
. .

CLASSIFIED INDEX.

De Vere's May C»roU ... 10 Cecil's Stable Practice

.... .

Estcourfs Music of Creation .

Fairy Family (The)
. .10
10 The
•* Stud Kann
Cricket-Field ....
Davy's Fishing Excursions, 2 Series
Gold9mith> Pnrms, illustrated
L. E. L.'f. Poetical Works
Linnood's Aiithologia Oxonieosis
... . .

.
II
15
15
Ephemera on Angling
Dook »i the Salmon
,

LyrAGerinnnica
Maciiula\'f Lays of Ancitnt Roma
MacDi.nlild's Within and Witlioul
.

.
n
7

18
Hawker's \oung Sportsman
The llunting-Fi.Id
Idles hints on shooting
.... .

Poems . . . . 18 Pocket and the stud

Montgomery's l-npticiMVorks . 20 Practical Horsemanship .

Moores Poetical Works . . . . 2(1 Richardson's Hursemanship.

"
"
"
I.alla Kookli
Irish Melodies
.....21
Selection*: ^illustrated)

. .
.

.
. 20
20
Ronalds's Flv-Fisher's KntomologT
Stable Talk and Table Talk .
Stoneheni^e on the Greyhound
*' National Melodies . . .21 Tliacker's Courser's Guide
*' Songs and KdUads . . .20 The stud, for Practical Purposes .

Eeade's Poetical Works

Shalspeare, by Bowdlcr
Southey's Poetical Works .
....
. . .

,
.

.
2f
i"!
2ri
Veterinary Medicine, &c.
" British Poets . . . . 2G Cecil's Stable Practice .

Thomson's Seasons, illustrated . 28 " Stud Farm .

Hunting-Field The)
Miles's Horse-Shoeing
Political Economy & Statistics, '* on tlie Horse's Foot
Pocket and the Stud
Dodd's Food of London . . . .10 Practical Horsemanship .
Grep's Political .and Social Essavs . 11 Richardson's Horsemanship
.M'CuUoch's Geog. Statist. &c. Diet. . 18 SUible alk and Table Talk
" Dictionary of Commerce 18
I

.
Stud (The)
'Willich's Popular Xablea . . .33 youatt's The Dog .
The Horse .

The Sciences in general and

Voyages and Travels.
Mathematics.
Arago's Meteorological Essays
"
iiaker's Wanderings in Ceylon
Barth't African Travels ....
**
Popular astronomy .
Bourne on the Screw Propiller
'6 (Catechism of Steam- Engine
Beikeleys Forests of France
IJurlon's East Af.-ica
*• Medina and Mecca
.... .

.
•* Great EastrrnSWAinvr Carlisle's Turkey and <j recce .

Boyd's Naval radtts Manual Flemish Interiors

Brande's I>irti(»nary of Science, Sic. Sardinia and Corsica
l-'orester's
" Lectures on Organic Chemistry
Cresy's Civil Kngtneering
Dell Heche's Gi-ologv of Cornwall, &c
Halloran's Japan
Hill s Travels in Siberia
HinchlifTs Travels in the Alpa
....
De la Kive's EUctncity
Grove's C(»rrelation of I'hysiral Forces
Herschel's (tuthnes of Astronomy
.

.
Howiii's Art-Student in Munich
(W.) Victoria
Hue's Chinese Empire
....
....
.

Holland's Mental Physiology . Hudson and Kennedy's Mont Blanc

Humboldt's Aspect* of Nature Hambiddt's Aspects of Nature
'*
Cosmos M't lures Norlli West Passage
Hunt on Light .MacDougall's Voyage of the l<eaolM(< .

Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopirdia Osbcirn B Quedah

Marcet's (Mrs.) (..'onvcrsationa PleiH'er's Voyage round the World
Maurv's Earth and .Man . Uuatrefages's Hambhs of a Naturalist
MorclVs Elemental of Psychology
Moselej 'b l-.ngineering and A rchiteclnre
Owen's Lectures on Crimp. An.itumy
.

.
Scheriers Central America
Seawartl's Narrali»e
Snow's Tierra del Fuego
. .

....
....
.

Ptrcra on Polarised Light . Spottiswocde'ft Eastern Russia

Peschel's Elements of Ihysici Von Tempsky's Mexico and Guatemala
Phillips's 1 ossils of Cornwall "Weld's Vacations in Ireland .
*•
Mineralogy " Vnited Stales and Canada .
" Guide to Geology .

Portlock's Geology of Londonderry

Powells Inity of tVprlds Works of Fiction.
Christianity without Judaism Cruikshnnk's FalstalT
" < Irde of Nalu Howitl's Tallangetla
Bmee's Elrctn -Metallurgy Macdonnld'E Villa Verocchio
(The) Melvi.le's Confinence-Man
Moftrc'B F.picurran .
Sir Roger l)c Covcrley
Bnral Sports. .

Sketdies (The), Tliree Tales

Baker's Rifle and Hound in Ceylon Southey's The Doctor, &c.
Berkeley's Forests of France .
Trollopes Barchester Towers
Blaine's Dictionary of Sport*
" Warden .
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4. SIR ROGER DE COVERLET. From 54. INDICATIONS of INSTINCT. By
the Spectator, Dr. Linhlet Kehp.
6. WILLI A.M PITT andthe EARL OF 65— 56. Lanman's ADVENTURES in the
CHATHAM. By Lord M»CiCL4T. WILDS of NORTH AMERICA.
6—7. Laino's RESIDENCE in NORWAY. De Cusn.NE's RUSSIA.
7-58-59.
8. Lord MiCACHT s ESSAYS on Ddrrieus MOROCCO.
60.
RANKE and GLADSTONE. 61—62. SELECTIONS from SYDNEY
9—10. Ida Pfeiffers LADY'S VOYAGE S.MITH'S WRITINGS.
round tlie WORLD. 63. SCHA.MYL, the CHIEFTAIN of
11—12. EUTHEN.or TRACES of TRAVEL the CAUCASUS.
from the EAST. 64. RUSSIA and TURKEY. By J. R.
13. LoKD Macaue4T'9 ESSAYS on AD- M'CULLOCH. Esq.
DISON and WALPOLE. 65—66. Laings NOTES of a TRAVEL-
14—15. Hrc's TRAVELS in TARTARY', LER in GERMANY, &c.
THIBET, and CHINA. 67. ESSAY onMORMfJNISM.
16—17. Thomas Holcboft's .MEMOIRS. 68—69. MiLES's RAMBLES in ICELAND.
18. The Earl of Carlisle's LECTURES 70. CHESTERFIELD and SELWYN
and ADDRESSES. By A. Hayivard, Esq., Q C.
19—20. Werne's AFRICAN WANDER- 71—72. SELECTIONS from SYDNEY
INGS. S.MITH'S WRITINGS.
21—22. Mrs. Jamison's SKETCHES in CA- 73. ARCTIC VOYAGES and DIS-
NADA. COVERIES. By Miss F. Maine.
23. Hope's BRITTANY and the BIBLE. 74— 75. CORNWALL : its MINES, MI-
24. The NATURAL HISTORY of CREA- XERS, and SCENERY.
TION. Bv Dr. Kemp. 76—77. DEFOE and CHURCHILL. By
25. Lord Macaclat's ESSAY on LORD Mr. J. FoRSTER.
BACON. 78. FRANCIS ARAGO'S AUTOBIO-
26. The ELECTRIC TELEGRAPH, GRAPHY. Translated by the RcT
&c. By Dr. G. Wilson. Baden Powell.
E7— 28. Jerrmann's PICTURES from ST. 79-80-81. GRtGOROVIUS'S CORSICA.
PETERSBURG. Translated by Russell Marti-
29—30. The Rev G. R. Gleig's LEIPSIC NEAf, M.A.
CAMPAIGN. 82. PRINTING : it« Antecedents, Ori-
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LINGTON. 83—84. LIFE with the ZULUS of NATAL.
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W. Hlghes, F.R.G.S. 85. Lord Macaulay's ESSAT on
34—35. Sir Edward Seiwari.'s NARRA- FREDERIC THE GREAT.
TIVE of his SHIPWRECK. 66—67. Forester's RA.MBLES in NOR-
36. Lord Jeffrey's ESSAYS on SWIFT WAY in IMS and 1849.
and RICHARDSON. 68. Raines's VISIT to the VAUDOIS
37. BiNKE's FERDINAND I. and MAX- of PIEDMONT.
IMILIAN II. 89. Spencer's RAILWAY MORALS
SS— 39. MEMOIRS of a MAITRE-D'ARMES. and RAILWAY POLICY.
Bv .Alexandre Dcmas. 90. HcRLED s PICl URES from CUBA.
1

40. LORD BYRON and the COMIC 91—W. HcTCiiiNSoN'8 NIGER, TSHADUA,
DR.\MATISTS. Bv Lord Macaclat. and BINUE EXPLORATION.
41. MARSHAL TURE.VnE. By the Rev. 93—94. WiLiiEBioRCE's BRAZIL and th
T. O. Cockai.ne, M.A. SLAVE TRADE.
42—43. OUR COAL-FIELDS and OUR 95. Lord .Macaulay's ESSAY on HAL-
COAL-PITS. LA.M'S HISTORY of ENGLAND.
44. Barrow's TOUR on the CONTI- 96—97. VuN TscauDis SKETCHES of NA-
NENT in 1852. TURE in the ALPS.
43. SWISS MEN and SWISS MOUN- 98—99. Lord .Macaclat's ESSAY on BOS-
T.\INS. By R. Fergcson. WELL'S LIFE of JOHNSON; with
46. Gironiehe's PHILIPPINE IS- Mrs. Piozzi's ANECDOTES of
LANDS. DR. JOHNSON.
47. TURKEY CHRISTENDOM.
and 100. AiLDJo's ASCENT MONT of
4s. CONFESSIONS of a WORKING BLANC.
Man. Bv Emile Socte«tre. 101-102. Mr. Rogers's ESSAT on THOMAS
49. Hope's CHasE in BRITTANY. FULLER, and SELECTIONS from
50. The LOVE ST(JRY from SOU- his WRITINGS.
THEYS JjOClVli.
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