DYEING

AND
PRINTING
ASSIGNMENT-2
INTRODUCTION & CLASSIFICATION OF
PRINTING

SUBMITTED BY-
HARSHIT KUMAR(12)

RAHUL KUMAR(23)
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I would like to express my special thanks of gratitude to my faculty Mrs. T. Srivani

who gave me the golden opportunity to do this assignment on the topic
Introduction and classification of printing which also helped me in doing a lot of
research and I came to know about so many new things I am really thankful to
them.

Secondly,I would like to acknowledge the websites and books I reffered to

complete my assignment.
PRINTING
• The printing is described as localized dyeing, dyes or pigment are applied locally or discontinuously to
produce the various designs.

• Printing is the production of all active designs with well defined boundaries made by the artistic
arrangement of a motif is one or more colors. Printing is a process for reproducing text and image,
typically with ink on paper using a printing press.

• Screen printing is a printing technique that uses a woven mesh to support an ink-blocking stencil. The
attached stencil forms open areas of mesh that transfer ink as a sharp-edged image onto a substrate.

• Screen printing is also a stencil method of print making in which a design is imposed on a screen of silk
or other fine mesh, with blank areas coated with an impermeable substance, and ink is forced through
the mesh onto the printing surface. It is also known as silk screening or serigraphy.

Direct Printing: In direct printing a design is etched into a copper roller. A dye that has been
thickened into a paste with starch, gelatin, or synthetic polymers is applied to the etched area while the
un-etched surface is kept clean. The color design is transferred to the cloth under pressure. Direct
printing may also involve forcing the paste onto the fabric through a screen, a technique similar to
stencil printing except that the screen controls how much paste is applied to the cloth.
Resist Printing: In resist printing a reverse-printing method, a dye repelling substance is selectively
applied to the cloth, which is then placed in a dye bath. This method is used for example, to produce
white polka dots on a color background.

Discharge Printing: In discharge printing, the whole fabric is dyed. A pattern is then printed on the
fabric with a chemical that oxidizes or reduces the dye, creating a white pattern on a colored
background.

Printing methods
Digital printing

• Ink-jet printing

Heat-transfer printing

• Design transferred to fabric from specially printed paper by heat & pressure

Electrostatic printing

• Prepared screen covered with powdered dye; passes through electric field & pulled onto material

Foil printing

• Adhesive applied to fabric, foil heated on heat transfer press & bonds to adhesive pattern

Stencil printing

• Separate pattern cut for each color, color is applied in thick paste or sprayed on with air gun
Factors Affecting Cost of Printing
1. Size of printing

2. Number of color of printing

3. Any grading of size of printing from size to size

4. Any restriction/selection of use of dyes and chemicals

5. Lab test requirement

6. Wash sustainability

7. Tolerance in placement of print art-work

8. Tolerance in color shade variation

9. Place of printing

10. Type of printing

Steps of printing
Preperation of the fabric to be printed

 Preparation of the print paste

 Making an impression of the print paste on the fabric

 Drying of the printed fabric

 Steaming of the printed fabric

 After treatments (soaping etc)

Steps of printing section
Design

Expose

Color

Develop sample

Block Printing
• It is the oldest and simplest way of printing

• In this method a wooden block with a raised pattern on the surface was dipped into the printing
colorant and then pressed face down on to fabric.

• The desired pattern was obtained by repeating the process using different colors.

• Generally the wooden block is carved out of hand

• Printing is done manually

ADVANTAGES
1. Simple method of printing

2. No expensive equipment required

3. No limitation in repeat of size of style

4. Prints produced have great decorative value and stamp of craftsmanship

DISADVANTAGES
1. Involves much manual work

2. Method is slow and therefore low output

3. Good skilled labors needed for multi color design

4. Fine and delicate designs hard to produce

ROLLER PRINTING

ADVANTAGES
1. Large quantities of fabric at the rate of 914-3658m per hour can be printed.

2. Faulty joints or joint marks are absent.

3. Fine sharp outlines and good prints can be obtained which is difficult to get in block printing.

DISADVANTAGES
1. Not economical for short run of fabrics.

2. Difficult to produce blotch designs.

3. Repeat of design limited to the size of the rollers.

4. Setup cost of roller printing m/c is high

STENCIL PRINTING
• It is one of the oldest way of printing.

• In it color is applied to the fabric by brushing or spraying the interstices of a pattern cut out from a flat
sheet of metal or waterproof paper or plastic sheet or laminated sheet.

• A stencil is prepared by cutting out a design from a flat sheet of paper, metal, or plastic.

ADVANTAGES
1. Simple and cost effective.

2. Stencils can be made rapidly and can be used for small orders.

3. Color combination is good in it.

DISADVANTAGES
1. Good design is difficult to obtain.

2. Process is laborious.

3. Not suitable for large scale production.

SCREEN PRINTING
• It involves the application of the printing paste through a fine screen placed in contact with the fabric
to be printed.

• A design is created in reverse on the screen by blocking areas of the screen with a material such as an
opaque paint.

• The screen is then placed over the fabric and the printing paste is forced through the open areas of
the screen using a flexible synthetic rubber or steel blade known as a squeegee.
ADVANTAGES
1. Simple and cost effective.

2. Quick pattern making

3. 16 colors can be used in a design.

4. Sharp lines and features easily produced.

DISADVANTAGES
1. For high production large no. of tables required.

2. Delicate shading difficult to obtain.

3. Screen clogging may be there in fine areas.

FLAT-SCREEN PRINTING
• It is the advanced version of screen printing by using automatic m/c to do work

• It consists of printing table, conveyor belt, number of screens, mechanism to print on the fabric, etc.

• First the fabric is brought on the printing table through a feeding arrangement and it is gummed to the
conveyor belt on the table

• Conveyor brings fabric periodically under screen and stops while the screen are lowered on the
required parts of the fabric.

• Printing paste is distributed throughout the full length of the screen.

• The squeeze is pressed to the screen .

• One or more strokes of the squeeze ensure simultaneous printing of the pattern by the common
action of all screens which applies printing paste as required by the color in the design.

ADVANTAGES
1. Greater production than manual screen printing

2. Printing with different repeat can be made easily

3. Good print is obtained

DISADVANTAGES
1. A big setup required for more number of screens

2. Prints with more colors may not be possible

3. Printing paste not evenly controlled

Rotary Screen Printing
• This process involves a print paste (like a thick paint) that is applied to an engraved roller, and the
fabric is guided between it and a central cylinder.

• The pressure of the roller and central cylinder forces the print paste into the fabric. Because of the
high quality it can achieve, roller printing is the most appealing method of printing designer and fashion
apparel fabrics.

• Long runs of the same fabric design are produced on a roller print cylinder machine operating at
speeds between 50 and 100 yards a minute. As many as 10 different colors can be printed in
onecontinuous operation, but each colour must have a separate roller.

• The design is cut into the surface of copper rollers; by varying the depth of the engraving on the roller
the shade depth can be altered.

•Sharpness of line and fine detail can be achieved this way. A typical printing machine has a large
padded drum or cylinder, which is surrounded by a series of copper rollers, each with its own dye trough
and doctor blade that scrapes away excess dye.

•The tubular screens rotate at the same velocity as the fabric, the print paste is distributed inside a
tubular screen, which is forced into the fabric as it is pressed between the screen and a printing blanket
(a continuous rubber belt). It picks up colour from the engraved area of each roller in sequence.

•The printed cloth is dried immediately and conveyed to an oven that sets the dye. Knitted fabric is
mostly printed in this method as it does not pull or stretch the fabric.
TRANSFER PRINTING
• It is a indirect method of printing in which dyes are transferred from paper to a thermoplastic fabric
under controlled conditions of temperature, time and pressure.

• The image is first engraved on a copper plate.

• Then pigment is applied on these plates.

• The image is then transferred to a piece of paper, with a layer of glue applied .

• This is then placed on the fabric and heat and pressure applied which fixes the print onto fabric.

ADVANTAGES
1. Operation is simple and no expensive m/c is required.

2. No after treatment of fabric required

3. Print on fabric is of excellent quality

DISADVANTAGES
1. Process applicable to synthetic fabric like polyester .

2. Color range is limited.

3. Cost of printed paper high.

4. Not economical for small orders.

Dye Sublimination Printing
• Dye sublimation allows photo lab quality picture printing. During the dye sublimation printing process,
an image is digitally printed in reverse with dye sublimation toners or inks onto media.

• That image is then placed on top of a fabric and subjected to high heat and pressure to form a heat
press.

• The dye sublimation toners or inks sublimate – the inks go from a solid state to a gaseous state
without becoming liquid in between and flow into the fabric, dyeing the threads.

• This creates a gentle gradation of colour and does not distort or fade over time.

RESIST PRINTING
• There are two types of resist printing

1) BATIK PRINTING

2) TIE & DIE PRINTING

BATIK PRINTING
• Originated on island of Java and is a cottage based industry.

• Batik is derived from word “AMBATIK”

• The resist-dyeing process, whereby designs are made with wax on a fabric which is subsequently
immersed in a dye to absorb the color on the unwaxed portions, is known as batik printing.

• Special feature is the fine lines of color running irregularly across the fabric
ADVANTAGES
• Gives a good artistic effect

• Cheap printing

• Greater artistic design

• Fabric has a rich and graceful appearance

DISADVANTAGES
• Laborious

• Time taking

• Cracking effect

• Dye should be applied at low temperature than wax.

TIE & DYE

A resist method of dying where fabric of finished garments are either twisted, knotted, gathered or
crumpled and then bound with string or elastic bands before dyeing.

Produces a variety of patterns. Garments made using tie dye come in and out of fashion.

• It is same as that of batik printing but here the dye is resisted by knots that are tied in the cloth
before it is immersed in dye bath.

• The outside of the knotted portion is dyed, but inside is not penetrated if the knot is firmly tied. • This
gives a characteristic blurred or mottled effect .
ADVANTAGE
• Interesting design created on fabric

• No m/c cost is there

DISADVANTAGE
• Costly

• Laborious

• Time taking

• Skilled labour required

Burnout Printing
Burn-out textiles is a technique used to develop raised designs on fabric surface. This is primarily being
done in fabrics with at least 2 different fibre content i.e. CottonPolyester, Silk-Rayon etc. Here one fibre
component is being dissolved thru chemical reactions while the other content remains intact giving
away raised illusion designs.
Burn-out Prints
1. This involves printing with a chemical that will destroy the fiber in the patterned design print area.

2. In fabrics that are made with blended yarns, the burn-out chemical will destroy one fiber and leave
the other undamaged. Unusual and interesting fabrics can be created by this method.

. Flock Prints

Tiny particles of fiber are made to adhere to a fabric surface in conformance to a particular design.
Rayon and nylon fibers are typically used for flocking.

The ability of flocked fibers to withstand dry cleaning and/or laundry depends on the adhesive.
Adhesives with excellent fastness to cleaning processes are used.
Difficulties in printing:
Lighter Print Faults in Textile Screen Printing on Fabric:

 Lighter shades on Selvedge and gradually deeper towards the other.

 In the middle of the fabric and darker towards the selvedges.

 While using large amount of foam.

 Due to uneven application of Gum.

Darker Screen Printing faults:

May be obtained irregularly throughout the fabric.

 If a soft table is used on a hard table surface.

 If a hard squeeze is used on a soft table surface.

 Deep stripes along the warp.

 Very small specs of color on the ground (Unprinted Portion).

 Screen may get clogged during working.

Printing faults:
1. Print color shadin

2. Print slarted

3. Color spot

4. Bleeding

5. Print wrong

6. Print burn

7. Air hole

8. Print bubble

9. Print missing

10. Wrong place

11. Not properly attached

12. Hand feels

13. Migration

14. Dirty mark

15. Uneven shade

16. Shade variation

17. Print sticky

18. Print not coverage

19. Print gap

20. Print over

21. Wrong side

22. Color wrong

23. Size mistake

24. Bunoledle card mistake

25.Fabric h

26.Fabric shade

27.Crease mark

28. Oil spot

29. Fabric burn

30.Needle mark

31. Cutting problem

32. Sticker wrong

33. Dye migration

34.Yarn hole

35. Yarn contamination

36. Fly yarn