Rough Guide Directions Bruges & Ghent (2008.2.ed) PDF

ROUGHGUIDES
Rough Guide DIRECTIONS
Bruges
& Ghent
US $11.99/ CAN $13.99
I S B N 978-1-85828-631-0
51199
9 781858 286310
Bruges
and Ghent
DIR E C T IO N S
WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Phil Lee
NEW YORK • LONDON • DELHI

www.roughguides.com
00 Bruges Intro 1-8.indd 1 12/20/07 10:35:26 AM

Contents
Introduction 4 Central Ghent .................................108
CONTENTS
Southern and eastern Ghent ........... 130
Ideas 9 Accommodation 139

The big six sights .............................10 Bruges............................................141
Canalside Bruges..............................12 Ghent..............................................146
Medieval Flemish art ........................14
Modern Belgian art ...........................16
Churches ..........................................18 Essentials 151
Museums.......................................... 20
Canalside hotels ...............................22 Arrival.............................................153
Historic hotels...................................24 Entry requirements .........................154
Hostels .............................................26 Information .....................................155
Flemish food.....................................28 City transport..................................155
Restaurants ......................................30 Performing arts and cinema............ 157
Belgian beer .....................................32 Festivals and events .......................158
Bars..................................................34 Directory.........................................160
Shopping in Bruges: food and drink ....36
Clothes and fashion ..........................38
Speciality shops in Bruges................ 40 Chronology 163
Festivals ...........................................42
Musical Bruges.................................44
Language 167
Places 47
The Markt.........................................49 Travel store 175
The Burg ..........................................57
South of the Markt............................64
The Groeninge Museum.................... 83
North and east of the Markt.............. 90 Index 183
Damme...........................................103

4
Introduction to
Bruges
INTRODUCTION
and Ghent
In 1896 the novelist and playwright

Kwak beer
Arnold Bennett complained, “The
difference between Bruges and
other cities is that in the latter you
look about for the picturesque,
while in Bruges, assailed on every
side by the picturesque, you look
curiously for the unpicturesque,
and don’t find it easily.”
Perhaps so, but for the modern palate,

battered by postwar development, Bruges’s blend of antique
architectural styles, from tiny brick cottages to gracious Classical
mansions, is a welcome relief – and retreat. It certainly brings out
the romance in many of its visitors – stay here long enough and you
can’t help but be amazed by the number of couples wandering its
canals hand-in-hand, cheek-to-cheek. Neither does it matter much
that a fair slice of Bruges is not

quite what it seems: many build-

Street life, Flanders
ings are not the genuine article,

but are carefully constructed to
resemble their medieval pre-
decessors. Bruges has spent time
and money preserving its image,
rendering almost everything
that’s new in various versions of
medieval style, and the result is
one of Europe’s most beautiful
city centres, whose charms are
supplemented by a clutch of
museums, plus lots of inviting
restaurants and bars.
Neighbouring Ghent boasts
its share of handsome medieval
buildings too, and also possesses
one of the artistic wonders of the
medieval world, the Adoration of
the Mystic Lamb altarpiece by Jan

5
When to visit
Bruges and Ghent are all-year destinations, with most attractions and
nearly all their bars and restaurants open in winter and summer alike.
Both cities enjoy a fairly standard temperate climate, with warm, if mild,
summers and cold winters, without much snow. The warmest months are
INTRODUCTION
usually June, July and August (averaging 18°C); the coldest, December
and January (averaging 2°C), when short daylight hours and weak sunlight
can make the weather seem colder (and wetter) than it actually is. Rain
is always a possibility, even in summer, which actually has more rainfall
than either autumn or winter. Warm days in April and May, when the light
has the clarity of springtime, are especially appealing. In Bruges, however,
the advantage of sunnier weather and longer daylight hours in July and
August is offset by the excessive number of tourists. If you’re planning
a short visit, it’s worth noting that almost all of the cities’ museums are
closed on Mondays.
van Eyck. Nonetheless, the atmosphere here is markedly different

from that in Bruges, and the tourist industry supplements but does not
dominate the local economy. As a consequence, Ghent preserves the
raw and authentic edges that Bruges has tried so hard to iron out , its
busy, bustling centre reflecting the to-ings and fro-ings of generations
of merchants, weavers, industrialists and workers, as well as
accommodating a thriving restaurant and bar scene.
In medieval times, both Bruges and Ghent prospered as lynchpins
of the cloth trade, turning high-quality English wool into clothing
that was exported all over the world. It was an immensely profit-
able business and one that made Bruges, in particular, a focus of
international trade. Through the city’s harbours, Flemish cloth was
exchanged for hogs from Denmark, spices from Venice, hides from
Chocolates, Bruges

6
Ireland, wax from Russia, gold and silver from Poland and furs from
Bulgaria. However, despite (or perhaps because of) this lucrative state
of affairs, Bruges and Ghent were dogged by war. The weavers and
merchants of both cities were dependent on the goodwill of the
kings of England for their wool supply, but their feudal overlords, the
counts of Flanders and their successors the dukes of Burgundy, were
vassals of the rival king of France. Consequently, whenever France
INTRODUCTION
and England were at war – which was often – both cities found
themselves in a precarious position.
The Habsburgs swallowed Flanders – including both Bruges and
Ghent – into their empire towards the end of the fifteenth century
and the sour relations that existed between the new rulers and
the two cities led to their decline. Economically and politically
marooned, Bruges was especially hard hit and simply withered away,
its houses deserted, its canals empty and its money spirited away
by the departing merchants. Some four centuries later, Georges
Rodenbach’s novel Bruges-la-Morte alerted well-heeled Europeans to
the town’s aged, quiet charms, and Bruges attracted its first wave of
tourists. Many of them – especially the British – settled here and came
to play a leading role in preserving the city’s architectural heritage
and today Bruges is one of the most popular weekend destinations
in Europe. Ghent, meanwhile, fared rather better, struggling on as a
minor port and trading depot until its fortunes were revived by the
development of a cotton spinning industry in the early years of the
nineteenth century. Within the space of forty years, Ghent was jam-
packed with factories producing all manner of industrial goods and,
although the city has moved on from its industrial base, it remains
economically buoyant and is Belgium’s third largest metropolis with
a population of around 250,000.
Graslei, Ghent

Bruges and Ghent
AT A GLANCE
INTRODUCTION

THE MARKT, BRUGES
The Belfort, Bruges

At the centre of Bruges, this
handsome cobbled square was
long the commercial heart of the
city, and is still home to one of
the city’s most striking medieval
landmarks, the Belfort, whose
distinctive lantern tower pierces
the city’s skyline.
SOUTH OF THE MARKT,

BRUGES
The streets south of the Markt
are home to several of the city’s
key sights, from the medieval
Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk and
St Janshospitaal, through to the
The Burg, Bruges whitewashed cottages of the
Begijnhof and the Minnewater, the
THE BURG, BRUGES so-called “Lake of Love”.
The city’s second central square,
the Burg is flanked by an THE GROENINGE MUSEUM,
especially beautiful group of BRUGES
buildings, including the postcard- The superb Groeninge Museum
perfect Gothic Stadhuis and the boasts one of the world’s finest
Heilig Bloed Basiliek, which holds collections of early Flemish
the city’s holiest relic, a phial paintings, including works by
purportedly containing a few Jan van Eyck, Rogier van der
drops of blood washed from the Weyden, Hans Memling and
body of Christ. Hieronymus Bosch.

INTRODUCTION 8
Ghent Train station
NORTH AND EAST OF THE CENTRAL GHENT

MARKT, BRUGES Ghent’s ancient centre holds
The areas north and east of the a glorious set of Gothic buildings,
centre are home to an especially including the stirring
beguiling collection of handsome St Baafskathedraal (also home to
streetscapes, with graceful man- the remarkable Adoration of the
sions and intimate brick houses Mystic Lamb by Jan van Eyck),
draped along a lattice of slender St Niklaaskerk, the medieval guild
canals, crisscrossed by dinky little houses of the Graslei, and a for-
stone bridges. bidding castle, Het Gravensteen.

DAMME
Graslei, Ghent
A popular day-trip from Bruges,

the pretty little village of Damme
perches beside a canal 7km to the
northeast of the city.

Canal near Damme
SOUTHERN GHENT
Ghent’s two leading art museums –
the Museum voor Schone Kunsten
and S.M.A.K. – are located a couple
of kilometres south of the centre,
not far from the main train station.

Ideas
01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-49 9 12/20/07 10:36:36 AM

10
Neither Bruges
The big six sights
nor Ghent is
packed with major
sights: their real
pleasures lie in
their charming mix
of antique buildings
set against a
skein of canals, all
best absorbed by
easy wanderings.
Nevertheless, there
are a number of
attractions you
shouldn’t leave without
seeing, ranging from
the landmark Belfort
overlooking Bruges’s
Markt through to Jan
The Belfort
van Eyck’s masterful
One of Belgium’s most distinctive landmarks,
Adoration of the Mystic the soaring lantern tower of the Belfort
pierces the skyline of central Bruges.
Lamb, housed in Ghent’s
P.51 THE MARKT, BRUGES
impressive cathedral.
Groeninge Museum
The city’s leading museum, internationally
famous for its collection of early Flemish
paintings.
P.83–89 THE GROENINGE
MUSEUM, BRUGES

11
Sint Janshospitaal
This former hospital is now a museum
housing a wonderful sample of the paintings
of Hans Memling.
P.70 SOUTH OF THE MARKT,
BRUGES
Heilig Bloed Basiliek

The city’s most important shrine, home
to the revered phial of the Holy Blood, its
contents reputedly washed from the body of
the crucified Christ.
P.57 THE BURG, BRUGES
Adoration of the Mystic

Lamb
Displayed in Ghent’s St Baafskathedraal, Jan
van Eyck’s visionary painting celebrates the
Lamb of God, the symbol of Christ’s sacrifice.
P.111 CENTRAL GHENT
Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk

Topped by one of the tallest spires
in Belgium, the rambling Onze Lieve
Vrouwekerk is the pick of the city’s
medieval churches.
BRUGES

12
Bruges is famous
Canalside Bruges
for its canals, those
narrow waterways
that lattice the
city centre and
provide a beautiful
contrast with its
antique buildings.
Ornamental today,
they were once the
city’s economic
lifeline with ships
sailing into the city
from the North
Sea via the canal that ran
from Damme. There are
boat tours of the central
canals, but the prettiest
stretches are often only to
be reached on foot. Jan van Eyckplein
Once a centre of merchant life, this quiet
square overlooks the Spiegelrei canal.
P.91 NORTH AND EAST OF THE
MARKT, BRUGES
St Bonifaciusbrug
No question, this is the quaintest bridge in
Bruges – even if it was built in 1910.
BRUGES

13
Gouden Handrei
Home to an eye-catching medley of those
distinctive canalside outhouses that stand at
the end of many city gardens.
MARKT, BRUGES
Minnewater
The “Lake of Love” attracts canoodlers by
the score.
BRUGES
Augustijnenbrug
The city’s oldest bridge, named after the
Augustinian monks who once lived nearby.
MARKT, BRUGES
Rozenhoedkaai
This slender quai provides an exquisite view
of the Belfort.
BRUGES

14
Throughout
Medieval Flemish art
the medieval
period, Flanders
was one of the
most artistically
productive parts
of Europe, with
all the Flemish
cloth towns
– and especially
Bruges and Ghent
– trying to outdo
one another with
the quality of
their religious art.
Jan Provoost
Today, the works
Provoost packed a real punch into his
of these early paintings, as here, showing a miser
attempting to bargain with death.
Flemish painters, are
P.87 THE GROENINGE
highly prized, and there’s MUSEUM, BRUGES
an excellent selection on
display in both cities, most
memorably in Bruges at
the Groeninge Museum
and in St Janshospitaal.
Hieronymus Bosch
Bosch’s religious allegories are filled with
macabre visions of tortured people and
grotesque beasts.
P.86 THE GROENINGE
MUSEUM, BRUGES

15
Gerard David
Typical of the work of David, this triptych
is a restrained meditation on the baptism
of Christ.
P.86 THE GROENINGE MUSEUM,
BRUGES
Rogier van der Weyden

Weyden’s serene portraits of religious
scenes and local bigwigs were much
admired across western Europe.
P.84 THE GROENINGE
MUSEUM, BRUGES
Jan van Eyck

Arguably the greatest
of the early Flemish
masters, van Eyck was a
key figure in the
development of oil
painting, modulating its
tones to create paintings
of extraordinary clarity
and realism.
P.83 THE
GROENINGE
MUSEUM, BRUGES

16
René Magritte,
Modern Belgian art
one of Surrealism’s
leading lights, was
Belgian, and his
work exemplifies
the country’s
enduring penchant
for the bizarre and
macabre – themes
which can be
traced back to
the grotesques
of James Ensor,
and even
Hieronymus Bosch.
Similarly appealing to
Belgian sensibilities was
Expressionism, whose
exaggerated shapes and Fernand Khnopff
Khnopff was Belgium’s leading Symbolist,
colours are evident in the his unsettling canvases playing with notions
of lust and desire.
eye-catching canvases
of Constant Permeke. BRUGES
The finest collections of

modern Belgian art can be
found at Ghent’s Museum
voor Schone Kunsten (see
p.135) and S.M.A.K. (see
p.134), and the Groeninge
Museum (see p.83–89)
in Bruges.
René Magritte
Magritte used ordinary images in a
dreamlike way, with strange, disconcerting
juxtapositions.
P.136 SOUTHERN & EASTERN
GHENT

17
James Ensor
Ensor painted and drew grisly, disturbing
works – often of skulls and skeletons
– whose haunted style prefigured
Expressionism.
P.136 SOUTHERN & EASTERN
GHENT
Constant Permeke
Belgium’s leading Expressionist, whose bold,
deeply shaded canvases can be found in
many Belgian galleries.
BRUGES

18
Profoundly Catholic
Churches
for most of their
history, Bruges and
Ghent possess a
liberal sprinkling of
churches. The finest
are Gothic, built
on the profits of
the cloth trade and dating
back to the thirteenth
century, though these
were all modified in later
centuries – a tower here
and an aisle there. The
second major period of
church building was in the
nineteenth century, when
the neo-Gothic style ruled
the architectural roost.
Jeruzalemkerk
The most unusual church in Bruges,
surmounted by an idiosyncratic
lantern tower.
MARKT, BRUGES
St Baafskathedraal
At the heart of Ghent, St Baafskathedraal is
one of Belgium’s finest Gothic churches.
P.109 CENTRAL GHENT

19
St Walburgakerk
Handsome Baroque church built for the
Jesuits in the seventeenth century.
MARKT, BRUGES
St Niklaaskerk
An exquisite example of early Gothic
architecture, the angular lines of
St Niklaaskerk rise high above Ghent.
P.114 CENTRAL GHENT
St Salvatorskathedraal
A sterling Gothic edifice with a spectacular
tower and an interior stuffed with all sorts of
ecclesiastical bric-a-brac.
BRUGES
Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk

This intriguing medieval church is home to
a Michelango Madonna in the nave and two
superbly crafted medieval sarcophagi in
the choir.
BRUGES

20
Bruges’s most Arentshuis
Museums
important There are temporary exhibitions of fine and
applied art here plus a permanent collection
museums are the devoted to the painting and drawings of the
Bruges-born artist Frank Brangwyn.
Groeninge (see
p.83–89) and Sint BRUGES
Janshospitaal
(see p.70), home
to outstanding
collections of fine art, but
there are more old Flemish
paintings in the intriguing
Onze-Lieve-Vrouw ter
Potterie museum. Bruges
was once famous for its
Gruuthuse
tapestries and there’s a The Gruuthuse holds an outstanding
first-rate sample of them collection of applied art, including a raft of
tapestries and a famous bust of Charles V.
in the Gruuthuse, whilst P.68 SOUTH OF THE MARKT,
lace – another Bruges BRUGES
speciality – is featured in
the Kantcentum (Lace
Centre). In Ghent, pride
of place goes to the city’s
two main art galleries –
S.M.A.K. (see p.134) and
the Schone Kunsten (see
p.135) – while the Design
Museum has a striking
collection of modern
furnishings and fittings.

21
Design Museum
Period rooms at the front and contemporary
design at the back, make this one of Ghent’s
most varied museums.
P.117 CENTRAL GHENT
Kantcentrum Onze-Lieve-Vrouw ter Pot-

The Kantcentrum (Lace Centre) exhibits a terie
small collection of antique lace and hosts This unusual museum, in a one-time
informal demonstrations of traditional medieval hospital, includes a handsome
lace-making. chapel with lovely stained-glass windows.
P.95 NORTH AND EAST OF THE P.100 NORTH AND EAST OF THE
MARKT, BRUGES MARKT, BRUGES

22
Some of the
Canalside hotels
classiest hotels
in Bruges (plus a
couple in Ghent)
occupy charming
canalside locations,
offering delightful
views from many
of their guest and
public rooms. The
majority of these
hotels occupy
grand Neoclassical
mansions, but
some are in older brick
buildings dating back to
medieval times.
Die Swaene, Bruges

Romantic, family-owned hotel in a delightful
setting and with luxurious antique
furnishings.
P.145 ACCOMMODATION

23
Adornes, Bruges
Excellent hotel in a handsome setting and
with a sleek, modern interior.
P.144 ACCOMMODATION
Relais Oud Huis

Boatel, Ghent Amsterdam, Bruges
This former canal barge has been turned Classic eighteenth-century mansion sympa-
into one of Ghent’s most appealing hotels. thetically converted into a four-star hotel.
P.147 ACCOMMODATION P.145 ACCOMMODATION

24
Bruges, and to Jacobs, Bruges
Historic hotels
a lesser extent Appealing and reasonably priced hotel in a
pleasingly modernized old brick building.
Ghent, possess a P.144 ACCOMMODATION
hatful of historic
hotels. Some
occupy grand
nineteenth-century
mansions; others
occupy antique
brick houses; while
yet others are set in
former monasteries
and convents. All provide
extremely comfortable
lodgings in a style that
matches their environs.

25
De Goezeput, Bruges Monasterium Poortackere,

Occupying a former convent, this outstanding Ghent
hotel is one of the best bargains in town. The most unusual hotel in Ghent, set in a
P.144 ACCOMMODATION tidily converted nineteenth-century
monastery.
P.147 ACCOMMODATION
Walburg, Bruges
Well-appointed hotel in a handsome
nineteenth-century mansion.
P.145 ACCOMMODATION

26
Bruges is well
Hostels
equipped with
hostels, including
an official HI
hostel tucked
away on the
outskirts of town
plus several privately run
hostels in the centre.
All offer inexpensive
– if rather spartan
– accommodation, either
in double rooms or in
dormitory beds, and the
best also have lively bars
and a youthful, friendly
atmosphere, making them
good places to meet other
travellers. Ghent, on the
other hand, has just one
hostel – but it’s a well-
kept place right in the
city centre.
Passage, Bruges
Arguably the most comfortable and
atmospheric hostel in Bruges – and
excellent value too.
P.146 ACCOMMODATION

27
Charlie Rockets, Bruges

A handy setting near the Markt and a
boisterous crew make this a popular hostel.
P.146 ACCOMMODATION
Bauhaus, Bruges
Well-established hostel with a laidback
atmosphere and some of the cheapest
rooms in the city.
P.146 ACCOMMODATION
Jeugdherberg De Draecke,
Ghent
Excellent, well-equipped HI-affiliated youth
hostel in the city centre.
P.150 ACCOMMODATION

28
Flemish food is
Flemish food
characteristically
straightforward and
hearty. Pork, beef,
game, fish and
seafood, especially
mussels, herring
and eels, remain
the staple items,
often cooked with
butter, cream and
herbs, or sometimes beer.
Soup is also common,
hearty stew-like affairs
mostly offered in a huge
tureen from which you can
help yourself – a satisfying
and reasonably priced
meal in itself.
Haring
The Flemings love their herring – preferably
(raw) fillets with onions in a bread roll. The
De Visscherie serves the fanciest herring
starters in town.
P.81 SOUTH OF THE MARKT

29
Waterzooi
A delicious and filling soup-cum-stew, which
is served with either chicken (van kip) or fish
(van riviervis). The Den Dyver restaurant does
a fine line in waterzooi.
Mussels and chips

If Belgium has a national dish it’s mussels
(mosselen) and chips, the mussels served up
in giant tureens. Try them at L’intermède.
Stoofvlees
Cubes of beef marinated in beer and cooked
with herbs and onions – a delicious
combination. The Cafedraal often has
stoofvlees on the menu.

30
Bruges and
Restaurants
Ghent boast a
huge number
of restaurants,
ranging
from deluxe
establishments
where you can
sample exquisite
Flemish and
French cuisine, through
to rudimentary, tourist-
orientated places serving
up filling meals at
bargain-basement prices.
Mercifully, very few are
owned by chains and
consequently the vast
majority are small and Den Dyver
Formal, long-established restaurant specia-
cosy, with the chef – or lizing in Flemish dishes cooked in beer.
chef-owner – hovering P.80 SOUTH OF THE MARKT,
BRUGES
around to make sure
everything is up to
scratch.
In Den Wittekop
Friendly, family-run restaurant, serving up
all the Flemish classics to a smooth jazz
soundtrack.
MARKT, BRUGES

31
Het Dagelijks Brood Cafedraal

Smashing little café-cum-restaurant with a Chic restaurant offering a wide range of
fine line in breads and soups. French and Flemish dishes.
P.63 THE BURG, BRUGES P.80 SOUTH OF THE MARKT,
BRUGES

32
There are about
Belgian beer
700 Belgian beers
to choose from, and
the range is simply
mind boggling:
there are red beers
and brown beers,
fruit beers and
wheat beers, not
to mention super-
strong Trappist
beers and tart Lambic
beers fermented with wild
yeast. Most bars in both
Bruges and Ghent have a
beer menu and, although
it’s unlikely that any one
establishment will have
all those listed here,
most should have at Kwak
least a couple. This sweet amber ale is served in distinctive
hourglasses placed in a wooden stand.
Gueuze
Double fermented beer with a tart flavour
and yellow colour.

33
Orval Kriek
Strong, amber ale produced in an abbey in Delightfully refreshing brew, flavoured with
the south of Belgium. cherries (or cherry juice).
Chimay
World–famous brew made by Trappist
monks. Try the red top (7%), or the leg-
liquefying blue (9%).

34
In both Bruges
Bars
and Ghent drinking
can be a delight.
Bars run the gamut
from traditional,
neighbourhood haunts
with nicotine-stained
walls to sleek modern
places and the Euro-style
pavement cafés which
flank the main squares
– the Markt in Bruges and
both the Vrijdagmarkt and
the Korenmarkt in Ghent.
Wijnbar Est
Infinitely agreeable café-bar offering tasty
snacks and light meals washed down with
the city’s widest selection of wines.
BRUGES

35
De Republiek
Fashionably cool and youthful bar with a
substantial beer menu.
MARKT, BRUGES
Oud Vlissinghe
Eccentric old bar with oodles of wood panel-
ling, long wooden tables and a pleasant beer
garden.
MARKT, BRUGES
De Garre
With an enterprising beer menu and jazzy
background music, this is one of the city’s
most enjoyable bars.

36
With so much Jenever
Shopping in Bruges: food and drink
space dedicated The Belgians have a penchant for jenever
(Dutch gin); the Bottleshop has a wide variety.
to tourism, regular P.53 THE MARKT, BRUGES
shopping for food
and drink plays
second fiddle in
central Bruges, but
there are a string
of places devoted
to Belgium’s
gastronomic
obsessions: beer
and chocolate.
With chocolate,
it’s worth
remembering that
you really do pay
for what you get:
the cheaper the
product, the more
likely it is to have a
greater percentage
of sugar.

37
Deldycke
The best delicatessan in town, perfect for
preparing a picnic.
Chocolate Line
Most chocolate shops in Bruges are chains, Bottleshop
but this one isn’t – and the chocolates are There are several hundred different types of
all the better for it. Belgian beer and this cheerful shop stocks
P.77 SOUTH OF THE MARKT, most of them.
BRUGES P.53 THE MARKT, BRUGES

38
When it comes
Clothes and fashion
to clothes and
fashion, Bruges
and Ghent are
minor league, but
each of them does
have a handful of
designer shops
where you can pick
up some great and
very varied gear:
Belgium has a lively
fashion scene,
and its leading
designers – like
Olivier Strelli – have
an international reputation.
Knapp Targa
Arguably the best clothes shop in town, with
a wide range of chic clothes, from classic
labels to more adventurous styles.
BRUGES

39
Rex Spirou
Adventurous designer fashions for the under
30s, plus plenty of accessories.
Quicke
The best shoe shop in Bruges, showcasing
top European designers.
BRUGES
Olivier Strelli
Belgium’s most famous clothes designer,
known for his simple but modern and elegantly
tailored designs for both men and women.
P.54 THE MARKT, BRUGES &
P.125 CENTRAL GHENT

40
Bruges is a well-
Speciality shops in Bruges
heeled city and
its prosperity is
reflected in its
speciality shops,
selling everything
from high-spec
furnishings and
fittings through to
wallet-emptying
antiques and locally
made lace.
Callebert
The Belgians are strong on contemporary,
domestic design – everything from kettles to
sofas – and Callebert proves the point.

41
TinTin Shop
Belgium’s bequiffed cartoon hero has
spawned a cottage industry of keepsakes
and souvenirs.
Kasimirs
Antiques are big business in Bruges, and
this immaculate place makes for excellent
browsing.
BRUGES
Bilbo
The pick of Bruges’s record shops, both for
new and old CDs and vinyl.
BRUGES

42
Bruges, and to
Festivals
a lesser extent
Ghent, put on
an ambitious
programme of
festivals and
special events.
One or two,
like the solemn Heilig-
Bloedprocessie, are
deeply embedded in
Flemish history, while
others are geared up for
the inhabitants of the
small surrounding villages.
The majority, however
– especially the performing
arts and film festivals – are
primarily aimed at the
region’s many visitors.
Gentse Feesten
The Ghent Festival is a ten–day party with
bands and buskers and an outdoor market,
plus lashings of alcohol.
P.42 ESSENTIALS

43
Meifoor
From late April to late May, the locals warm
up at this annual fun fair.
P.43 ESSENTIALS
Heilig Bloedprocessie
Kerstmarkt On Ascension Day, the Procession of the Holy
Bruges’s Christmas market is a picturesque Blood celebrates Bruges’s holiest icon, a
affair with open–air stalls and a skating rink. phial holding drops of Christ’s blood.
P.43 ESSENTIALS P.43 ESSENTIALS

44
Bruges may
Musical Bruges
be a small city,
but musically it
more than pulls
its weight with
an outstanding
programme of live
classical concerts
plus rock, jazz
and world music.
Neighbouring
Ghent and Ostend
chip in with their
musical contributions too.
Many of Bruges’s prime
performances are at the
Concertgebouw, the new
concert hall on ‘t Zand,
where the acoustics are
first rate.
Festival van Vlaanderen

Classical concerts in historic locations are at
the heart of the Festival of Flanders.
P.44 ESSENTIALS

45
Concertgebouw
Opened in 2002, this is Bruges’s premier
concert hall, with outstanding acoustics.
P.157 ESSENTIALS
Cactusfestival
Three-day rap, roots and R&B knees-up over
the second weekend of July.
P.158 ESSENTIALS
Musica Antiqua
Medieval music at its most creative
performed over two weeks in late July and
early August.
P.159 ESSENTIALS

Places
02 Bruges Places 47-138.indd 47 12/20/07 1:07:34 PM

49
J^[CWhaj
Passing through Bruges in 1820, William Wordsworth
declared that this was where he discovered “a deeper
peace than in deserts found”. He was neither the first
nor the last Victorian to fall in love with the place and by
the 1840s there was a substantial British colony here, its
members captured and enraptured by the city’s medieval
P L A C E S Bruges: The Markt

architecture and air of lost splendour. Civil service and
army pensions went much further in Bruges than back
home and the expatriates were not slow to exercise
their economic muscle, applying an architectural Gothic
Revival brush to parts of the city that weren’t “medieval”
enough. Time and again, they intervened in municipal
planning decisions, allying themselves to like-minded
Flemings in a movement which changed, or at least
modified, the face of the city – and ultimately paid out
megabucks with the arrival of mass tourism in the 1960s.
Thus, Bruges is not the ruddy-brown brick, each gable

perfectly preserved medieval compatible with but slightly
city described by much tourist different from its neighbour. The
literature, but rather a clever, majority are late nineteenth- or
frequently seamless combination twentieth-century recreations
of medieval original and – or reinventions – of older
nineteenth- and sometimes buildings, though the former
twentieth-century additions. Post Office, which hogs the
This is especially true of the east side of the square, is a
city centre and its principal thunderous neo-Gothic edifice
square, the Markt, an airy open which refuses to camouflage its
space overlooked by the mighty more modern construction.
Belfort and flanked on its other
three sides by rows of gabled The Monument to Pieter de
buildings, with horse-drawn Coninck and Jan Breydel
buggies clattering over the The burghers of nineteenth-
cobbles between. The biscuit- century Bruges were keen
tin buildings flanking most of to put something suitably
the square form a charming civic in the middle of the
ensemble, largely mellow Markt and the result is the
A combined ticket for any five of Bruges’ fourteen municipal museums – including
the Stadhuis, Belfort, Renaissancezaal ’t Brugse Vrije, Arentshuis, and the Groeninge,
Gruuthuse and Memling museums – costs €15 and can be bought at any of the
fourteen featured places, as well as from the tourist office. Depending on exactly
which museums you visit, the ticket can offer a significant saving compared to buy-
ing individual tickets. Note that, with the exception of the Stadhuis, the Belfort and the
Renaissancezaal ’t Brugse Vrije, all these museums are closed on Mondays.

Bruges: The Markt P L A C E S 50
conspicuous monument to then, that the monument takes

Pieter de Coninck, of the guild its cue from the battle rather
of weavers, and Jan Breydel, than the massacre. Interestingly
dean of the guild of butchers. enough, the statue was actually
Standing close together, they unveiled twice. In July 1887 a
clutch the hilt of the same local committee pulled back
sword, their faces turned to the the drapes to celebrate Coninck
south in slightly absurd poses and Breydel as Flemings,
of heroic determination – a whilst in August the city
far cry from the gory events council organized an official
which first made them local opening, when King Leopold II
heroes. At dawn on Friday, honoured them as Belgians.
May 18, 1302, in what was
later called the Bruges Matins, The Café Craenenburg
their force of rebellious Occupying a relatively
Flemings crept into the city undistinguished modern
and massacred the unsuspecting building on the corner of
French garrison, putting to the St-Amandsstraat, the Craenenburg
sword anyone who couldn’t Café marks the site of the
correctly pronounce the eponymous medieval mansion in
Flemish shibboleth schild en which the guildsmen of Bruges
vriend (“shield and friend”). imprisoned the Habsburg heir,
Later the same year, the two Archduke Maximilian, for three
guildsmen went on to lead months in 1488. The reason
the city’s contingent in the for their difference of opinion
Flemish army that defeated was the archduke’s efforts to
the French at the Battle of the limit the city’s privileges, but
Golden Spurs – no surprise, whatever the justice of their

51

THE MARKT
cause, the guildsmen made a big wooden spire in the 1480s,

mistake. Maximilian made all though the new spire was
sorts of promises to escape their lost to a thunderstorm a few
clutches, but a few weeks after years later. Undeterred, the
his release his father, Emperor Flemings promptly added a
Frederick III, turned up with an third spire, though when this
army to take imperial revenge, went up in smoke in 1741
with a bit of hanging here and a the locals gave up, settling for
bit of burning there. Maximilian the present structure with the
became emperor in 1493 and addition of a stone parapet in
never forgave Bruges, not only 1822. It’s a pity they didn’t have
failing to honour his promises another go, if only to sabotage
but also doing his considerable Longfellow’s metre in his dire
best to push trade north to its but oft-quoted poem The Belfry
great rival, Antwerp. of Bruges: “In the market place
of Bruges/Stands the Belfry old
Outside the Belfort and brown/Thrice consumed
Filling out the south side of and thrice rebuilt …”, and so
the Markt, but entered via
the Hallen (see p.52), the
domineering Belfort (belfry) is
a potent symbol of civic pride
and municipal independence,
its distinctive octagonal lantern
visible for miles across the
surrounding polders. The Belfort
was begun in the thirteenth
century, when the town was at
its richest and most extravagant,
but it has had a blighted history.
The original wooden version
was struck by lightning and
burned to the ground in 1280.
The present brick replacement,
with blind arcading, turrets and
towers, was constructed in its
place, receiving its octagonal
stone lantern and a second
CONINCK AND BREYDEL MONUMENT

52
behind a set of fancy
– and still surprisingly
well-preserved – iron
grilles. Here also is an
iron trumpet with which
a watchman could
warn the town of a fire
outbreak – though given
the size of the trumpet,
it’s hard to believe this
Bruges: The Markt P L A C E S
was very effective.
The Belfort’s Carillon

THE BELFORT
Chamber
Carrying on up the
on. Few would say the Belfort staircase, you soon reach the
is good-looking – it’s large and Belfort’s Carillon Chamber,
really rather clumsy – but it where you can observe the
does have a certain ungainly slow turning of the large spiked
charm, though this was lost on drum that controls the 47 bells
G.K. Chesterton, who described of the municipal carillon. The
it as “an unnaturally long- largest bell weighs no less than
necked animal, like a giraffe”. six tonnes. Like other Flemish
cities, bells were first used
The Hallen, and inside the in Bruges in the fourteenth
Belfort century as a means of regulating
Entry to the Belfort the working day, and as such
(Tues–Sun 9.30am–5pm, last reflected the development of
entry 4.15pm; €5) is via the a wage economy – employers
quadrangular Hallen at its were keen to keep tabs on their
base. Now used for temporary employees. Bells also served as
exhibitions, the Hallen is a a sort of public address system
much-restored edifice dating with everyone understanding
from the thirteenth century. the signals: pealing bells, for
In the middle, overlooked example, announced good news;
by a long line of galleries, tolling bells summoned the
is a rectangular courtyard, city to the Markt; and a rapid
which originally served as the sequence of bells warned of
town’s principal market, its danger. By the early fifteenth
cobblestones once crammed century a short peal of bells
with merchants and their marked the hour, and from this
wares. On the north side of the developed the carillon (beiaard ),
courtyard, up a flight of steps, with Bruges installing its present
is the belfry entrance. version in the middle of the
Inside, the belfry staircase eighteenth century. The city still
begins innocuously, but employs a full-time bell-ringer
gets steeper and very much and you’re likely to see him
narrower nearer the top. On fiddling around preparing his
the way up, it passes several concerts in the Carillon Room,
chambers, beginning with the a small and intimate little cubby
Treasury Room, where the hole right near the top of the
town charters and money chest belfry. A few stairs up from here
were locked for safekeeping you emerge onto the roof of the

53
Carillon concerts Callebert

Wollestraat 25 T 050 33 50
Carillon concerts, which are 61, W www.callebert.be. Mon
audible all over the city centre, 2–6pm, Tues–Sat 10am–noon &
are performed from late June to 2–6pm, Sun 3–6pm. Bruges’s
September on Monday, Wednesday top contemporary homeware,
and Saturday (9–10pm) and Sunday ceramics and furniture store,
(2.15–3pm), and from October to featuring leading brands such
mid-June on Wednesday, Saturday as Alessi and Bodum, as well
and Sunday (2.15–3pm). as less familiar names. They

also stock everything from
bags, watches and jewellery
Belfort, which offers fabulous to household utensils, textiles
views over the city, especially and tableware, while the shop’s
in the late afternoon, when the art gallery presents the best of
warm colours of the town are at contemporary design, primarily
their deepest. in glass and ceramics, along with
calligraphy and photography.
Shops Deldycke
Wollestraat 23 T 050 33 43 35. Daily
The Bottle Shop except Tues 9.30am–6pm. The
Wollestraat 13 T 050 34 99 80. Daily best delicatessen in town, with
10am–7pm. Just off the Markt helpful service and every treat
– so very popular with tourists you can think of – from snails
– this bright and cheerful and on up the evolutionary
establishment stocks several tree – plus pâtés and a good
hundred types of beer, oodles of selection of beer.
whisky and jenever (gin), as well
as all sorts of special glasses to Diksmuids boterhuis
drink them from – the Belgians Geldmuntstraat 23 T 050 33 32
have specific glasses for many of 43. Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm
their beers. & 2–6.30pm. Traditional shop
THE CARILLON CHAMBER

54
specializing in cooked meats and top-of-the-range contemporary
Belgian cheeses. tailored designs with a touch
of individuality; the fitted
INNO shirts and soft woollens with
Steenstraat 11–15 T 050 33 06 03. characteristic diagonal zips are
Mon–Sat 9.15am–6pm. The best particularly popular.
department store in town,
spread over four floors and Olivier Strelli (for women)
selling everything from high- Eiermarkt 3 T 050 34 38 37, W www
quality clothes and perfumes .strelli.be. Mon–Sat 10am–6.30pm.
Bruges: The Markt P L A C E S
through to leather goods, One of Belgium’s most

underwear, household utensils established designers, Strelli
and jewellery. has been creating simple but
modern clothes for years.
Javana His designs include tailored
Steenstraat 6 T 050 33 36 05, W www trousers and fitted jackets,
.javana.be. Mon–Sat 9am–6pm. often in muted tones with the
Javana has been selling the odd splash of colour thrown
best coffees and teas in the in. Pricey.
world from these neat little
premises for over fifty years, Reisboekhandel
and also stocks the full range Markt 13 T 050 49 12 29, W www
of accessories for coffee- and .dereyghere.be. Mon–Sat
tea-making. 9.30am–12.30pm & 1.30–6pm.
Specialist travel branch of the
La Pasta adjacent De Reyghere (see
Kleine St-Amandsstraat 12 T 050 below), with a wide selection of
34 23 01. Tues–Fri 9.30am–1pm & travel guides, some in English,
2–6pm, Sat 9.30am–6pm. Popular plus road and city maps and
with locals and visitors alike, this hiking and cycling maps of the
cosy, family-run food shop sells surrounding areas. Also stocks
everything Italian, its speciality travel-related English–language
being delicious ready-cooked magazines.
meals. Also stocks a good range
of Italian and French wines. Rex Spirou
Geldmuntstraat 18 T 050 34 66 50,
Oil & Vinegar W www.rex-spirou.com. Mon–Sat
Geldmuntstraat 11 T 050 34 56 50, 9.30am–6.30pm. Chic and sharp
W www.oilvinegar.com. Mon–Sat designer clothes for the young
10am–6pm. Mediterranean gift- and cool – or at least the self-
shop-cum-foodstore offering conscious – plus a good line in
an assortment of sauces, accessories, from jewellery to
mustards and cooking oils in bags and belts.
attractive jars and glass bottles,
plus a good range of Tuscan De Reyghere
cookbooks. Markt 12 T 050 33 34 03, W www
.dereyghere.be. Mon–Sat
Olivier Strelli (for men) 8.30am–6.15pm. Founded over
Geldmuntstraat 19 T 050 33 26 one hundred years ago, De
75, W www.strelli.be. Mon–Sat Reyghere is something of a
10am–6.30pm. Men’s branch local institution and a meeting
of Belgium’s well-known place for every book-lover in
designer selling expensive, town. The shop stocks a wide

55
range of domestic and foreign up along the Markt, this old-
literature, art and gardening fashioned place still attracts a
books and travel guides, and loyal, local clientele. With its
is also good for international leather- and wood-panelling,
newspapers, magazines and wooden benches and mullion
periodicals. windows, the Craenenburg has
the flavour of old Flanders, and
TinTin Shop although the daytime-only food
Steenstraat 3 T 050 33 42 92, is routine, it has a good range
W www.tintinshopbrugge.be. Mon–Sat of beers, including a locally

9.30am–6pm, Sun 11am–6pm; produced, tangy brown ale
Oct–March closed Wed. Souvenir- called Brugse Tripel.
cum-comic shop cashing in on
Hergé’s quiffed hero, with all Café de Medici
sorts of Tintin tackle from Geldmuntstraat 9. Mon–Sat
T-shirts to comics. 9am–6pm. An enjoyable antidote
to the plain modernism of
many of its rivals, this attractive
Cafés café boasts an extravagantly
ornate interior, complete
De Belegde Boterham with huge mirror and spindly
Kleine St Amandsstraat 5. Mon–Sat curving staircase. It also has the
noon–4pm. Most of the cafés best range of coffees in town,
in and around the Markt are not to mention mouthwatering
firmly tourist-oriented, but cakes and tarts, plus sandwiches
this bright and breezy little and salads too.
place, in attractively renovated
old premises, has a local
following on account of its fresh Restaurants
sandwiches (€7–10) and tasty
salads (€10–12). Den Amand
St Amandsstraat 4 T 050 34 01 22.
Café Craenenburg Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sat noon–3pm &
Markt 16. Daily 10am till late. Unlike 6–10pm, Sun 6–10pm. Decorated
the other touristy cafés lining in pleasant modern style, this
CAFÉ CRAENENBURG

Bruges: The Markt P L A C E S 56
DE GARRE
cosy and informal family-run constructed, with fish and meat

restaurant offers inventive dishes given equal prominence.
cuisine combining French and Mains €22–25, set three-course
Flemish traditions. Mains from menus €44, or €60 with wine.
the limited but well-chosen Reservations essential.
menu – featuring dishes such
as swordfish in seafood jus
and seafood waterzooi (soup) Bars
– average a very reasonable €20.
It’s a small place, so best to book De Garre
a few hours in advance. De Garre 1. Mon-Fri noon–midnight,
Sat & Sun 5pm–1am. Down a
De Stove narrow alley off Breidelstraat,
Kleine St Amandsstraat 4 T 050 33 78 between the Markt and
35. Mon, Tues, Sat & Sun noon–1.45pm the Burg, this cramped but
& 6.45–9.30pm, Fri 6.45–9.30pm. charming tavern (estaminet) has
Small and extraordinarily cosy an outstanding range of Belgian
Franco-Belgian restaurant beers and tasty snacks with
that’s recommended by just classical music adding to the
about everyone, including relaxed air.
Michelin. The menu is carefully

57
J^[8kh]
From the east side of the Markt, Breidelstraat leads
through to the city’s other main square, the Burg,
named after the fortress built here by the first count of
Flanders, Baldwin Iron Arm, in the ninth century. The
fortress disappeared centuries ago, but the Burg long
remained the centre of political and ecclesiastical
P L A C E S Bruges: The Burg

power, with the Stadhuis (Town Hall) – which has
survived – on one side, and St Donatian’s Cathedral
– which hasn’t – on the other. Fringing the southern half
of the Burg is the city’s finest architectural ensemble,
an especially handsome mix of late-Gothic and
Renaissance buildings including the Stadhuis and the
Basilica of the Holy Blood.
Heilig Bloed Basiliek the original structure; it also

(Basilica of the Holy Blood) suffers from excessively rich
April–Sept daily 9.30am–noon & nineteenth-century decoration.
2–6pm; Oct–March Mon–Tues & The chapel itself may be
Thurs–Sun 10am–noon & 2–4pm, Wed disappointing, but the large
10am–noon; free. The city’s most silver tabernacle that holds the
important shrine, the Heilig
Bloed Basiliek is named after
the holy relic that found its way
here in the Middle Ages. The
basilica divides into two parts.
Tucked away in the corner is
the lower chapel, a shadowy,
crypt-like affair, originally
built at the start of the twelfth
century to shelter another relic,
a piece of St Basil, one of the
great figures of the early Greek
Church. The chapel’s heavy
and simple Romanesque lines
are decorated with just one
relief, carved above an interior
doorway and showing the
baptism of Basil, in which a
strange giant bird, representing
the Holy Spirit, plunges into a
pool of water.
The upper chapel, next door
up a curving, low-vaulted
staircase, was built just a
few years later but has been
renovated so frequently that
it’s impossible to make out
HEILIG BLOED BASILIEK

Bruges: The Burg P L A C E S 58
rock-crystal phial of the Holy not least on Ascension Day

Blood is simply magnificent, (mid-May) when it is carried
being the gift of Albert and through the town in the Heilig-
Isabella of Spain in 1611. The Bloedprocessie (Procession
Habsburg King Philip II of of the Holy Blood, see box
Spain had granted control of opposite). The reliquary that
the Spanish Netherlands (now holds the phial during the
Belgium) to his daughter procession is displayed in the
Isabella and her husband tiny treasury (same times as
Albert in 1598, but they were basilica; €1.50), next to the
imprudent rulers, continuing upper chapel. Dating from 1617,
the long-winded war against the reliquary is a superb piece
the Protestant Dutch to the of work, the gold-and-silver
north without success and superstructure encrusted with
exalting the Catholic faith jewels and decorated with tiny
– as per the tabernacle – whilst religious scenes. The treasury
simultaneously persecuting those also contains an incidental
Protestants who remained in collection of vestments and lesser
their fiefdom. reliquaries plus a handful of late
The phial itself (see box medieval paintings, most notably
opposite) was one of the holiest a finely executed triptych of the
relics in medieval Europe, Deposition by Gerard David
purporting to contain a few (1460–1523) and a naïve panel-
drops of blood and water washed painting entitled Scenes from the
from the body of Christ by Life of St Barbara by the Master
Joseph of Arimathea. The Holy of the St Barbara Legend. The
Blood is still venerated and, tower in which the saint’s father
despite modern scepticism, imprisoned her on account
reverence for it remains strong, of her Christian faith became

59
The Holy Blood

Local legend asserts that the Heilig Bloed (Holy Blood) was the gift of Diederik
d’Alsace, a Flemish knight who distinguished himself by his bravery during the
Second Crusade and was given the phial by a grateful patriarch of Jerusalem
in 1150. It is, however, rather more likely that the relic was acquired during the
sacking of Constantinople in 1204, when the crusaders ignored their collective job
description and, instead of ridding Palestine of its Moslem rulers, simply slaugh-
tered the Byzantines instead – hence the historical invention involving Diederik.
Whatever the truth, after several weeks in Bruges the relic was found to be dry, but

thereafter the dried blood proceeded to liquefy every Friday at 6pm until 1325, a
miracle attested to by all sorts of church dignitaries, including Pope Clement V.
The failure, in 1325, of the Holy Blood to liquefy prompted all sorts of conjecture
– did it mean that Bruges had lost favour in the eyes of God? – but the phial,
or more exactly its dried contents, remain an object of veneration even today,
not least on Ascension Day (mid-May), when it is carried through the town in a
colourful but solemn procession, the Heilig-Bloedprocessie (Procession of the
Holy Blood). The procession starts on ’t Zand in front of the new Concertgebouw
(Concert Hall) at 3pm and then wends its way round the centre taking in
Steenstraat, Simon Stevinplein, Dyver, Wollestraat, the Markt, Geldmuntstraat and
Noordzandstraat before regaining ’t Zand at about 5.30pm. Grandstand tickets
(€5–11) are sold at the main tourist office (see p.155 ) from March 1.
Barbara’s symbol and is shown entrance hall makes a suitably

here under construction. Look grand home for a collection of
out also, in the glass cabinet ambitious nineteenth-century
between the windows, for Mary paintings, either romantic
of Burgundy’s dinky little crown
T H E S TA D H U I S
and, above the treasury door,
for the faded strands of a locally
woven seventeenth-century
tapestry depicting St Augustine’s
funeral, the sea of helmeted
heads, torches and pikes that
surround the monks and abbots
very much a Catholic view of a
muscular State supporting a
holy Church.
The Stadhuis (Town Hall)

Daily 9.30am–5pm; €2.50 including
the Renaissancezaal ’t Brugse Vrije
(see p.61). Immediately to the
left of the basilica, the Stadhuis
has a beautiful sandstone
facade of 1376, though its
statues, mostly of the counts
and countesses of Flanders, are
modern replacements for those
destroyed by the occupying
French army in 1792. Inside,
the impressive, high-ceilinged

60
reworkings of the city’s history Upstairs, the magnificent
designed to reassure the council Gothic Hall of 1400 has been
of its distinguished pedigree, or restored in style, its ceiling a
didactic canvases to keep it up vibrant mixture of maroon,
to the mark. The paintings on dark brown, black and gold,
display are changed regularly, dripping pendant arches like
but perhaps the most original decorated stalactites. The ribs of
is the dramatic Death of Mary the arches converge in twelve
of Burgundy by Camille van circular vault-keys, showing
Camp (1834–91), depicting the scenes from the New Testament,
Bruges: The Burg P L A C E S
hunting accident which polished though they’re hard to see

the young queen off in 1482. without binoculars. Down
There’s also a curious painting below – and much easier to
showing a certain Baron de view – are the sixteen fancy
Croeser welcoming Napoleon gilded corbels which support
to the Stadhuis; the baron wears them. These represent the
a forced smile – not surprisingly, months and the four elements,
given that the emperor was beginning in the left-hand
about to sweep away the ancient corner beside the chimney with
privileges that had sustained January (inscribed “Winter”)
the city’s oligarchs. There’s also and continuing clockwise
a large portrait of the empress right round the hall; the gilded
Maria Theresa decked out in the chariots of Air and Earth follow
amazing lace dress she had made June (“Lentemaand”), Fire and
for her in Flanders in 1744: Water come after September
she obviously felt it suited her (“Herfst”). The wall frescoes
– witness the haughty pose and were commissioned in 1895
the dainty foot poking out from to illustrate the history of the
under the hem. town – or rather history as the
council wanted to recall it. The
THE GOTHIC HALL
largest scene, commemorating
the victory over the French
at the Battle of the Golden
Spurs in 1302, has lots of noble
knights hurrahing, though it’s
hard to take this seriously when
you look at the dogs, one of
which clearly has a mismatch
between its body and head.
Next door to the Gothic
Hall is the Historische zaal
(Historical Room), where a
routine display of miscellaneous
municipal artefacts is partly
redeemed by two finely drawn,
sixteenth-century city maps.
The Civiele Griffie and

the Renaissancezaal ’t
Brugse Vrije
Next door to the Stadhuis,
above and beside the archway
spanning Blinde Ezelstraat

61
(Blind Donkey Street), is the building in the early eighteenth
bright and cheery Civiele century – before Napoleon
Griffie (Records Office; not abolished them. Today the
open to the public), which was building is home to the city
built to house the municipal archives, but pop inside to
records office in 1537, its look at the Schepenkamer
elegant facade decorated with (Aldermen’s Room), the sole
Renaissance columns and friezes survivor from the fifteenth-
superimposed on the Gothic century mansion and now
lines of the gable below. known as the Renaissancezaal

The adjacent Paleis van het ’t Brugse Vrije (Renaissance
Brugse Vrije (Mansion of the Hall of the Liberty of Bruges;
Liberty of Bruges) is demure daily 9.30am–12.30pm &
by comparison, but nonetheless 1.30–5pm; €2.50 including
boasts a distinguished history. the Stadhuis). Dominating the
Established in the Middle room is an enormous marble
Ages, the Liberty of Bruges and oak chimneypiece, a superb
was a territorial subdivision example of Renaissance carving
of Flanders which enjoyed completed in 1531 to celebrate
extensive delegated powers, the defeat of the French at
controlling its own finances and Pavia six years earlier and the
judiciary. Power was exercised advantageous Treaty of Cambrai
by a council of aldermen and that followed. A paean of praise
it was they who demolished to the Habsburgs, the work
most of the original Gothic features the Emperor Charles V
Charles the Good and Galbert of Bruges

In 1127, St Donaaskathedraal witnessed an event that shocked the whole of
Bruges, when the Count of Flanders, Charles the Good, was murdered while he
was at prayer in the choir. A gifted and far-sighted ruler, Charles eschewed foreign
entanglements in favour of domestic matters – unlike most of his predecessors
– and improved the lot of the poor by trying to ensure a regular supply of food
and controlling prices in times of shortage. These far-sighted policies, along with
his personal piety, earned Charles his sobriquet, but the count’s attempts to curb
his leading vassals brought him into conflict with the powerful Erembald clan. The
Erembalds had no intention of submitting to Charles, so they assassinated him
and took control of the city. Their success was, however, short-lived. Supporters of
Charles rallied and the murderers took refuge in the tower of St Donatian’s, from
where they were winkled out and promptly dispatched.
Shocked by the murder, one of Charles’s clerks, a certain Galbert of Bruges,
decided to write a detailed journal of the events that led up to the assassination
and the bloody chaos that ensued. Unlike other contemporary source materials,
the journal had no sponsor, which makes it a uniquely honest account of events,
admittedly from the perspective of the count’s entourage, with Galbert criticiz-
ing many of the city’s leading figures, clergy and nobles alike. Galbert’s journal
provides a fascinating insight into twelfth-century Bruges and it’s well written too
(in a wordy sort of way) – as in the account of Charles’ death: “when the count
was praying ... then at last, after so many plans and oaths and pacts among
themselves, those wretched traitors ... slew the count, who was struck down with
swords and run through again and again”. The full text is reprinted in The Murder
of Charles the Good, edited by James Bruce Ross.

Bruges: The Burg P L A C E S 62
CIVIELE GRIFFIE
and his Austrian and Spanish Beyond, in the northeast corner

relatives, each person identified of the Burg, the modern Crowne
by the free audio guide, though Plaza hotel marks the site of
it’s the trio of bulbous codpieces St Donaaskathedraal (St
that really catch the eye. The Donatian’s Cathedral), which
alabaster frieze running below was razed by the French army
the carvings was a caution for of occupation in 1799. This
the Liberty’s magistrates, who splendid structure boasted an
held their courts here. In four octagonal main building flanked
panels, it relates the then familiar by a sixteen-sided ambulatory
Biblical story of Susanna, in topped off by an imposing
which – in the first panel – two tower. The foundations were
old men surprise her bathing uncovered in 1955 but were
in her garden and threaten to then promptly reinterred
accuse her of adultery if she and, although there are vague
resists their advances. Susanna plans to carry out another
does just that and the second archeological dig, nothing has
panel shows her in court. In the happened yet.
third panel, Susanna is about The curious Toyo Ito pavilion
to be put to death, but the across from the hotel is probably
magistrate, Daniel, interrogates the city’s most unsuccessful
the two men and uncovers their piece of modern art, known
perjury. Susanna is acquitted locally – for reasons that are
and, in the final scene, the two obvious as soon as you see it –
men are stoned to death. as the “car wash”. Rumour has
it that it will soon be removed.
The site of St
Donaaskathedraal
Adjoining the Paleis van het Shops
Brugse Vrije is the plodding
courtyard complex of the Rombaux
Gerechtshof (Law Courts), Mallebergplaats 13 T 050 33 25 75.
dating from 1722 and now Mon 2–6.30pm, Tues–Fri
home to municipal offices. 9am–12.30pm & 2–6.30pm, Sat

63
10am–6pm. The idiosyncratic it - attracts a youthful clientele
facade of faded old album and serves reasonably priced
covers conceals all manner Italian food. There’s also a large
of musical goodies, including adjoining pool room with five
classical to modern CDs (with tables and live music every
a particularly good selection of fortnight or so.
jazz and blues), plus vinyl and
sheet music. Het Dagelijks Brood
Philipstockstraat 21. Daily except
Tues 8am–6pm. This excellent

Cafés bread shop doubles as a
wholefood café with one
Charlie Rockets long wooden table – enforced
Hoogstraat 19–21 T 050 49 00 communalism, which can be
75, W www.charlierockets.com. good fun – and a few smaller
Daily noon–2.30pm & 6–10.30pm. side tables too. The home-
In the same building as the made soup and bread makes
eponymous hostel (see p.146), a meal in itself for just €8, or
this American-style café-bar you can chomp away on a
– or at least an approximation of range of snacks and cakes.

64
Iekjê\j^[CWhaj
The bustling area to the south of the Markt holds the
city’s busiest shopping streets as well as many of its
key buildings and most important museums. The area
is at its prettiest among the old lanes near the
cathedral, Salvatorskathedraal, which lays claim
to be the city’s most satisfying church, though the
Bruges: South of the Markt P L A C E S
Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk, just to the south, comes a

close second. There is more cutesiness in the huddle
of whitewashed cottages of the Begijnhof and at
the adjacent Minnewater, the so – called “Lake of
Love”. As for the museums, St Janshospitaal offers
the exquimedieval paintings of Hans Memling, the
Gruuthuse is strong on applied art, especially
tapestries and antique furniture, and the Groeninge
(p.83) holds a wonderful sample of early Flemish art.
The Vismarkt and picturesque houses that crimp the

Huidenvettersplein Huidenvettersplein, the square
From the arch beside the at the centre of the old tanners’
Stadhuis on the Burg, Blinde quarter immediately to the west
Ezelstraat (Blind Donkey Street) – a good job as the locals of
leads south across the canal to the yesteryear often complained of
plain and sombre, eighteenth- the stench. Tourists converge on
century Doric colonnades of this pint-sized square in their
the Vismarkt (fish market), droves, holing up in its bars and
though, with its handful of fish restaurants and snapping away
traders, this is but a shadow of at the postcard-perfect views
its former self. Neither are there of the belfry from the adjacent
any tanners in the huddle of Rozenhoedkaai.
DIJVER CANAL

65
PLACES

66
museums, the Groeninge (see
p.83), just before reaching the
Arentshuis.
The Arentshuis
Dijver 16. Tues–Sun 9.30am–5pm;
€3, or free with Groeninge Museum
ticket. The Arentshuis occupies
a good-looking eighteenth–
century mansion with a stately
porticoed entrance. Now a

museum, the interior is divided
into two separate sections: the
ground floor is given over
S T J O H N N E P O M U K , W O L L E S T R A AT to temporary exhibitions,
usually of fine art, while the
Wollestraat bridge Brangwyn Museum upstairs
Just west of Huidenvettersplein displays the moody sketches,
is the Wollestraat bridge, etchings, lithographs, studies and
overlooked by a statue of the paintings of the much-travelled
patron saint of bridges, artist Sir Frank Brangwyn
St John Nepomuk, a fourteenth- (1867–1956). Born in Bruges
century Bohemian priest who of Welsh parents, Brangwyn
was purportedly thrown bound flitted between Britain and
and gagged into the River Belgium, donating this sample
Vltava for refusing to reveal of his work to his native town
the confessional secrets of the in 1936. Apprenticed to William
queen to her husband, King Morris in the early 1880s and
Wenceslas IV. The bridge marks an official UK war artist in
the start of the Dijver, which World War I, Brangwyn was
tracks along the canal as far as nothing if not versatile, turning
Nieuwstraat, passing the path his hand to several different
to the first of the city’s main media, though his forceful
drawings and sketches are
much more appealing than his
paintings, which often slide into
sentimentality. In particular,
look out for the sequence
of line drawings exploring
industrial themes – powerful,
almost melodramatic scenes of
shipbuilding, docks, construction
and the like. This penchant for
dark and gloomy industrial
scenes bore little relationship to
the British artistic trends of his
day and they attracted muted
reviews. Better received were his
murals, whose bold designs and
strong colours attracted almost
universal acclaim – and a 1920s
commission to turn out a series
for Britain’s House of Lords. In
BRANGWYN SCULPTURE, ARENTSHUIS

67
A combined ticket for any five of Bruges’ fourteen municipal museums – including
the Stadhuis, Belfort, Renaissancezaal ’t Brugse Vrije, Arentshuis, and the Groeninge,
Gruuthuse and Memling museums – costs €15 and can be bought at any of the
fourteen featured places, as well as from the tourist office. Depending on exactly
which museums you visit, the ticket can offer a significant saving compared to
buying individual tickets. Note that, with the exception of the Stadhuis, the Belfort and
the Renaissancezaal ’t Brugse Vrije, all these museums are closed on Mondays.
the event, these murals, whose and its place was subsequently
P L A C E S Bruges: South of the Markt

theme was the splendour of taken by the main post office.
the British Empire, ended up Also in the Arentspark is the
in Swansea Guildhall, though tiniest of humpbacked bridges
several of the preparatory – St Bonifaciusbrug – whose
sketches are displayed here in stonework is framed against
the Arentshuis. a tumble of antique brick
houses. One of Bruges’s most
The Arentspark picturesque (and photographed)
The Arentshuis stands in the spots, the bridge looks like
north corner of the pocket- the epitome of everything
sized Arentspark, whose brace medieval, but in fact it was only
of forlorn stone columns are all built in 1910. Next to the far
that remain of the Waterhalle, side of the bridge is a pensive,
which once stood on the east modern statue of Juan Luis
side of the Markt. Demolished Vives, a Spanish Jew and friend
in 1787, the Waterhalle straddled of Erasmus, who settled here
the most central of the city’s in the early sixteenth century
canals, with boats sailing to avoid persecution. It was a
inside the building to unload wise decision: back in Spain
their cargoes. When part of his family had converted to
the canal – between Jan van Christianity, but even that failed
Eyckplein and the Dijver – was to save them. His father was
covered over in the middle burnt at the stake in 1525 and
of the eighteenth century, the his dead mother was dug up and
Waterhalle became redundant her bones burned.
S T B O N I FA C I U S B R U G

68
The Gruuthuse Museum
Dijver 17. Tues–Sun 9.30am–5pm;
€6. The Gruuthuse Museum
occupies a rambling mansion
dating from the fifteenth
century, a fine example of civil
Gothic architecture which takes
its name from the houseowners’
historical right to tax the gruit,
the dried herb and flower
mixture once added to barley

during the beer-brewing process
to improve the flavour. The last
lord of the gruit died in 1492
and, after many twists and turns,
the mansion was eventually
turned into a museum to hold
a hotchpotch of Flemish fine, GRUUTHUSE MUSEUM
applied and decorative arts,
mostly dating from the medieval hundred years in the making, an
and early modern period. The architecturally discordant affair,
museum’s strongest suit is its whose thirteenth-century, grey-
superb collection of tapestries, stone central aisle is the oldest
mostly woven in Brussels or part of the church. The central
Bruges during the sixteenth aisle blends in with the south
and seventeenth centuries, aisle, but the later, fourteenth-
although its most famous century north aisle doesn’t mesh
artefact is a much-reproduced at all – even the columns aren’t
polychromatic terracotta bust of aligned. This was the result of
a youthful Emperor Charles V. changing fashions, not slapdash
The house’s most unusual work: the High Gothic north
feature is the oak-panelled aisle was intended to be the start
oratory that juts out from the of a complete remodelling of the
first floor to overlook the altar church, but the money ran out
of the Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk before the work was finished.
next door. A curiously intimate In the south aisle is the
room, the oratory allowed the church’s most acclaimed objet
lords of the gruit to worship d’art, a delicate marble Madonna
without leaving home – a real and Child by Michelangelo.
social coup. Purchased by a Bruges
merchant, this was the only
Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk one of Michelangelo’s works
(Church of Our Lady) to leave Italy during the artist’s
Mon–Sat 9.30am–4.50pm, Sun lifetime and it had a significant
1.30–4.50pm; free. Next door influence on the painters then
to the Gruuthuse, the Onze working in Bruges, though
Lieve Vrouwekerk is a rambling its present setting – beneath
shambles of a building, a gloomy stone walls and set
clamour of different dates and within a gaudy Baroque altar
styles, whose brick spire is – at – is unprepossessing.
122m – one of the tallest in Michelangelo apart, the most
Belgium. Entered from the interesting part of the church
south, the nave was three is the chancel (€2.50), beyond

69
The Bruges tapestry industry

Tapestry manufacture in Bruges began in the middle of the fourteenth century.
The embryonic industry soon came to be based on a dual system of workshop
and outworker, the one using paid employees, the other with workers paid on a
piecework basis. From the beginning, the town authorities took a keen interest in
the business, ensuring consistency by a rigorous system of quality control. The
other side of this interventionist policy was less palatable: wages were kept down
and the workers were hardly ever able to accumulate enough capital to buy either
their own looms or even the raw materials.

There were two great periods of Bruges tapestry-making, the first from the early
fifteenth until the middle of the sixteenth century, the second from the 1580s to
the 1790s. Tapestry production was a cross between embroidery and ordinary
weaving. It consisted of interlacing a wool weft above and below the strings of a
vertical linen “chain”, a process similar to weaving. However, the weaver had to stop
to change colour, requiring as many shuttles for the weft as he or she had colours,
as in embroidery. The appearance of a tapestry was entirely determined by the weft,
the design being taken from a painting – or cartoon of a painting – to which the
weaver made constant reference. Standard-size tapestries took six months to make
and were produced exclusively for the very wealthy. The most famous artists of the
day were often involved in the preparatory paintings – Pieter Paul Rubens, Bernard
van Orley and David Teniers all had tapestry commissions.
There were only two significant types of tapestry: decorative, principally verdures,
showing scenes of foliage in an almost abstract way; and pictorial (the Bruges
speciality) – usually variations on the same basic themes, particularly rural life,
knights, hunting parties, classical gods and goddesses and religious scenes. Over
the centuries, changes in style were strictly limited, though the early part of the
seventeenth century saw an increased use of elaborate woven borders, an appre-
ciation of perspective and the use of a far brighter, more varied range of colours.
the black-and-white marble

rood screen. Here you’ll find
the mausoleums of Charles the
Bold and his daughter Mary
of Burgundy (see box, p.71),
two exquisite examples of
Renaissance carving, their side
panels decorated with coats of
arms connected by the most
intricate of floral designs. The
royal figures are enhanced in
the detail, from the helmet
and gauntlets placed gracefully
by Charles’ side to the pair of
watchful dogs nestled at Mary’s
feet. The exploratory hole dug
by archeologists beneath the
mausoleums during the 1970s
(see box, p.71) was never filled
in and mirrors now give sight
of Mary’s coffin along with the
burial vaults of several unknown
MICHELANGELO’S MADONNA AND CHILD

70
medieval dignitaries, three of gravestone – the bird was the
which have now been moved man’s emblem, appropriately
to the Lanchals Chapel. The enough, as his name means
coats of arms above the choir “long neck”.
stalls are those of the knights of In front of the Lanchals
the Order of the Golden Fleece gravestone are three relocated
(see box, p.74), who met here medieval burial vaults, each
in 1468. plastered with lime mortar.
Just across the ambulatory The inside walls of the vaults
from the mausoleums, the sport brightly coloured grave
Lanchals Chapel holds the frescoes, a type of art which

imposing Baroque gravestone flourished hereabouts from the
of Pieter Lanchals, a one-time late thirteenth to the middle
Habsburg official who was of the fifteenth century. The
executed by the citizens of iconography is fairly consistent,
Bruges in 1488. Legend asserts with the long sides mostly
that he was beheaded for his bearing one, sometimes two,
opposition to Maximilian’s angels apiece, with most of
temporary imprisonment in the them shown swinging thuribles
Craenenburg (see p.50) and that, (the vessels in which incense
to atone for its crime, Bruges is burnt during religious
was later obliged to introduce ceremonies). Typically, the short
swans to its canals. Both tales sides show the Crucifixion and
are, however, fabrications, the Virgin and Child and there’s
seemingly invented in the sometimes an image of the dead
nineteenth century: Lanchals person or his/her patron saint
actually had his head lopped too. The background decoration
off for being corrupt and was is more varied, with crosses, stars
soon forgotten by his erstwhile and dots all making appearances
sponsor, while the swan story as well as two main sorts of
seems to have originated flower – roses and bluebells. The
with the swan that adorns his frescoes were painted freehand
and executed at great speed
O N Z E L I E V E V R O U W E K E R K , G R AV E F R E S C O E S
– Flemings were then buried on
the day they died – hence the
delightful immediacy of
the work.
Sint Janshospitaal
Opposite the entrance to the
Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk, the
Sint Janshospitaal is a sprawling
complex which sheltered the
sick of mind and body until
well into the nineteenth century.
The oldest part – at the front on
Mariastraat, behind two church-
like gable ends – has been
turned into a slick museum (see
opposite), whilst the nineteenth-
century annexe, reached along
a narrow passageway on the
north side of the museum,

71
The earthly remains of Mary of Burgundy and

Charles the Bold
The last independent rulers of Flanders were Charles the Bold, the Duke of
Burgundy, and his daughter Mary of Burgundy, both of whom died in unfortunate
circumstances, Charles during the siege of the French city of Nancy in 1477,
Mary after a riding accident in 1482, when she was only 25. Mary was married to
Maximilian, a Habsburg prince and future Holy Roman Emperor, who inherited her
territories on her death and thus, at a dynastic stroke, Flanders was incorporated

into the Habsburg empire.
In the sixteenth century, the Habsburgs relocated to Spain, but they were keen
to emphasize their connections with – and historical authority over – Flanders,
the richest part of their expanding empire. Nothing did this quite as well as the
ceremonial burial – or re-burial – of bits of royal body. Mary was safely ensconced
in Bruges’ Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk, but the body of Charles was in a makeshift
grave in Nancy. Emperor Charles V, the great grandson of Charles the Bold, had
– or thought he had – this body exhumed and carried to Bruges, where it was
re-interred next to Mary. There were, however, persistent rumours that the French,
traditional enemies of the Habsburgs, had deliberately handed over a dud skeleton,
specifically one of the knights who died in the same engagement. In the 1970s,
archeologists had a bash at solving the mystery. They dug beneath Charles and
Mary’s mausoleums in the Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk but, amongst the assorted
tombs, failed to authoritatively identify either the body or even the tomb of Charles;
Mary proved more tractable, with her skeleton confirming the known details of her
hunting accident. Buried alongside her was the urn which contained the heart of
her son, Philip the Fair, placed here in 1506.
has been converted into an the labelling is minimal, though

exhibition-cum-shopping centre the audioguide provides copious
called – rather confusingly background information.
– Oud St-Jan. The passageway Highlights of the larger
also passes the hospital’s old section include Jan Beerblock’s
Apotheek (apothecary; Tues–Sun The Wards of St Janshospitaal
9.30am–5pm; free), which (audioguide no.27; exhibit
comes complete with rows of no.66), a minutely detailed
antique porcelain, earthenware painting of the hospital ward
and glass jars. as it was in the late eighteenth
century, with patients tucked
The Hospitaalmuseum away in row upon row of tiny,
Tues–Sun 9.30am–5pm; €8. At the cupboard-like beds. There were
front of the St-Janshospitaal 150 beds in total divided into
complex, the Hospitaalmuseum three sections – one for women,
divides into two, with one large one for men and the third for
section – in the former hospital the dying. Other noteworthy
ward – exploring the historical paintings include an exquisite
background to the hospital Deposition (audioguide no.36;
through documents, paintings exhibit no.138), a late fifteenth-
and religious objets d’art; and a century version of an original
second, smaller section sited in by Rogier van der Weyden, and
the old hospital chapel which is a stylish, intimately observed
devoted to six works by Hans diptych (audioguide no.38;
Memling (see p.72). In both, exhibit no.153) by Jan Provoost,

Bruges: South of the Markt P L A C E S 72
S T J A N S H O S P I TA L M U S E U M
with portraits of Christ and the passed through Germany. It is,

donor – a friar – on the front however, the mass of incidental
and a skull on the back. detail that makes the reliquary
so enchanting – a wonderful
The Memling Collection evocation of the late medieval
The former chapel of the world. Equally delightful is the
Hospitaalmuseum houses six Mystical Marriage of St Catherine,
works by Hans Memling the middle panel of a large
(1433–94). Born near Frankfurt, triptych depicting St Catherine,
Memling spent most of his who represents contemplation,
working life in Bruges, where receiving a ring from the baby
he was taught by Rogier Jesus to seal their spiritual union.
van der Weyden (see p.84). In the background, behind
He adopted much of his St John, is the giant wooden
tutor’s style and stuck to the crane that once dominated the
detailed symbolism of his Kraanplein (see p.91).
contemporaries, but his painterly Memling’s skill as a portraitist
manner was distinctly restrained, is demonstrated to exquisite
often pious and grave. Graceful effect in his Portrait of a Young
and warmly coloured, his figures Woman, where the richly dressed
also had a velvet-like quality subject stares dreamily into
that greatly appealed to the city’s the middle distance, her hands
burghers, whose enthusiasm – in a superb optical illusion
made Memling a rich man – in – seeming to clasp the picture
1480 he was listed among the frame. The lighting is subtle
town’s major moneylenders. Of and sensuous, with the woman
the six works on display, the set against a dark background,
most unusual is the Reliquary her gauze veil dappling the side
of St Ursula, comprising a of her face. A high forehead
miniature wooden Gothic was then considered a sign of
church painted with the story great womanly beauty, so her
of St Ursula. Six panels show hair is pulled right back and
Ursula and her ten companions was probably plucked – as
on their way to Rome, only to are her eyebrows. There’s no
be massacred by Huns as they knowing who the woman was,

73
but in the seventeenth century displays take a shot at explaining
her fancy headgear convinced the role of the archeologist
observers that she was one of in preserving the city’s past.
the legendary Persian sibyls The labelling is, however,
who predicted Christ’s birth; so only in Dutch and the same
convinced were they that they applies upstairs, where the most
added the cartouche in the top substantial section is devoted
left hand corner, describing her to the city’s medieval tanners,
as Sibylla Sambetha – and the featuring an assortment of
painting is often referred to by decrepit leather shoes recovered

this name. from various digs.
The sixth and final painting,
the Virgin and Martin van St Salvatorskathedraal
Nieuwenhove diptych is exhibited (Cathedral of the Holy
in the adjoining side chapel. Saviour)
Here, the eponymous merchant Mon 2–5.30pm, Tues–Fri 9am–noon
has the flush of youth and a & 2–5.30pm, Sat 9am–noon &
hint of arrogance: his lips pout, 2–3.30pm, Sun 9–10am & 2–5pm;
his hair cascades down to his free. St Salvatorskathedraal is
shoulders and he is dressed a bulky Gothic edifice that
in the most fashionable of mostly dates from the late
doublets – by the middle of thirteenth century, though the
the 1480s, when the portrait Flamboyant Gothic ambulatory
was commissioned, no Bruges was added some two centuries
merchant wanted to appear too later. A parish church for most
pious. Opposite, the Virgin gets of its history, it was only made a
the full stereotypical treatment cathedral in 1834 following the
from the oval face and the destruction of St Donatian’s (see
almond-shaped eyes through p.62) by the French. This change
to full cheeks, thin nose and of status prompted lots of
bunched lower lip. ecclesiastical rumblings – nearby
Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk (see
Archeologisch Museum p.68) was bigger and its spire
(Archeological Museum) higher – and when part of St
Mariastraat 36a. Tues–Sun Salvators went up in smoke in
9.30am–12.30pm & 1.30–5pm; 1839, the opportunity was taken
€2.The city’s Archeologisch to make its tower higher and
Museum is a particularly modest grander in a romantic rendition
affair, whose ground-floor of the Romanesque style.
S T S A LVAT O R S K AT H E D R A A L

74
Recently cleaned, the the paintings as the weavers
cathedral’s nave has emerged worked with the rear of the
from centuries of accumulated tapestries uppermost on their
grime, but remains a cheerless, looms; the weavers also had
cavernous affair. The star turn sight of the tapestry paintings
is the set of eight paintings by – or rather cartoon copies, as
Jan van Orley displayed in the the originals were too valuable
transepts. Commissioned in to be kept beside the looms.
the 1730s, the paintings were Also in the choir are the painted
used for the manufacture of a escutcheons of the members of
matching set of tapestries from the Order of the Golden Fleece,

a Brussels workshop; remarkably which met here in 1478 (see
enough, these have survived box below).
too and hang in sequence in Entered from the nave, the
the choir and nave. Each of the cathedral treasury (daily except
eight scenes is a fluent, dramatic Sat 2–5pm; €2.50) occupies the
composition featuring a familiar adjoining neo-Gothic chapter
episode from the life of Christ house, whose nine rooms are
– from the Nativity to the packed with ecclesiastical tackle,
Resurrection – complete with from religious paintings and
a handful of animals, including statues through to an assortment
a remarkably determined Palm of reliquaries, vestments and
Sunday donkey. The tapestries croziers. The labelling is poor,
are actually mirror images of however, so it’s a good idea to
The Order of the Golden Fleece

Philip the Good, the Duke of Burgundy, invented the Order of the Golden Fleece
in 1430 on the occasion of his marriage to Isabella of Portugal. Duke since 1419,
Philip had spent much of his time curbing the power of the Flemish cities – including
Bruges – but he was too economically dependent on them to feel entirely secure.
To bolster his position, the duke was always looking for ways to add lustre to his
dynasty, hence his creation of the Order of the Golden Fleece, an exclusive, knightly
club that harked back to the (supposed) age of chivalry. The choice of the name
was a complimentary nod both to the wool weavers of Flanders, who provided him
with most of his money, and to the legends of classical Greece. In the Greek story,
a winged ram named Chrysomallus – gifted with the power of speech and a golden
fleece – saved the life of Phrixus, presented him with his fleece and then flew off
to become the constellation of Aries; it was this same fleece that Jason and the
Argonauts later sought to recover. The Order’s emblem was a golden ram.
Philip stipulated that membership of the Order be restricted to “noblemen in
name and proven in valour … born and raised in legitimate wedlock”. He promptly
picked the membership and appointed himself Grand Master. It was all something
of a con trick, but it went down a treat and the 24 knights who were offered mem-
bership duly turned up at the first meeting in Lille in 1431. Thereafter, the Order
met fairly regularly, gathering together for some mutual back-slapping, feasting
and the exchange of presents. Bruges and Ghent were two favourite venues, and
the Order met three times in the former: at St Donatian’s Cathedral in 1431, at the
Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk in 1468, and at St Salvatorskathedraal in 1478. However,
when the Habsburgs swallowed up Burgundy in the late fifteenth century, the Order
was rendered obsolete and the title “Grand Master” became just one of the family’s
many dynastic trinkets.

75
pick up the English–language
mini–guide at the entrance.
Room B holds the treasury’s
finest painting, a gruesome,
minutely observed oak-panel
triptych, The Martyrdom of St
Hippolytus, by Dieric Bouts
(1410–75) and Hugo van der
Goes (d.1482). In Room E,
also look out for the coin-like

tokens the church wardens
once gave to the poor. Each is
inscribed with an entitlement
– “W.B.”, for instance, means
bread for a week.
Diamantmuseum Brugge H U I S B R O U W E R I J D E H A LV E M A A N
(Bruges Diamond Museum)
Katelijnestraat 43 T 050 34 20 56, & 3pm, Sat & Sun hourly
W www.diamondmuseum.be. Daily 11am–4pm; €5), whose forty-
10.30am–5.30pm; €6, or €9 with minute guided tours include
diamond-polishing demonstration. a glass of the brewery’s most
A privately owned museum, popular beer, Brugse Zot.
the Diamantmuseum Brugge,
opposite the east end of The Begijnhof
Wijngaardstraat, tracks through Daily 9am–6.30pm or sunset; free.
the history of the city’s diamond At the south end of Walplein,
industry and displays many the antique terrace houses of
different sorts of diamond in Wijngaardstraat are crammed
various settings. There are daily with souvenir shops, bars
demonstrations of diamond and restaurants. It’s all rather
polishing at 12.15pm. depressing, but there’s relief
near at hand in the much more
Stoofstraat and Walplein appealing, if just as over-visited,
Strolling south from Sint Begijnhof, where, just over the
Janshospitaal along Mariastraat, bridge and through the gate
cross the canal and take the from Wijngaardstraat, a rough
first right turn along L-shaped circle of old and infinitely
Stoofstraat, Bruges’s narrowest pretty whitewashed houses
street, whose old terrace houses, surrounds a central green. The
now little ateliers and souvenir best time to visit is in spring,
shops, were once home to the when a carpet of daffodils
city’s prostitutes, who picked up pushes up between the wispy
sticks and departed decades ago. elms, creating one of the most
Stoofstraat leads into the photographed scenes in Bruges.
Walplein, a pleasant square There were once begijnhofs all
flanked by the Huisbrouwerij over Belgium, and this is one
De Halve Maan (Half Moon of the few to have survived in
Brewery; T 050 33 26 97, good nick. They date back to
W www.halvemaan.be; guided the twelfth century, when a
tours: April–Oct daily Liège priest, a certain Lambert
11am–4pm, Sat until 5pm; le Bègue, encouraged widows
Nov–March Mon–Fri at 11am and unmarried women to live

76
in communities, the better to cupboard, which was a frugal
do pious acts, especially caring combination of dining table,
for the sick. These communities cutlery cabinet and larder.
were different from convents in
so far as the inhabitants – the The Minnewater
beguines (begijns) – did not have Just metres from the more
to take conventual vows and southerly of the Begijnhof ’s
had the right to return to the two gates is the Minnewater,
secular world if they wished. often hyped as the city’s “Lake
Margaret, Countess of Flanders, of Love”. The tag certainly
founded Bruges’s Begijnhof in gets the canoodlers going, but

1245 and, although most of in fact the lake – more a large
the houses now standing date pond – started life as a city
from the eighteenth century, harbour. The distinctive stone
the medieval layout has lock house at the head of the
survived intact, preserving the Minnewater recalls its earlier
impression of the Begijnhof as function, though it’s actually a
a self-contained village, with very fanciful nineteenth-century
access controlled through two reconstruction of the medieval
large gates. original. The Poertoren, on the
The houses are still in private west bank at the far end of the
hands, but, with the beguines lake, is more authentic, its brown
long gone, they are now brickwork dating from 1398
occupied by Benedictine nuns, and once part of the city wall.
who you’ll see flitting around This is where the city kept its
in their habits. Only one of the gunpowder – hence the name,
houses is open to the public “powder tower”.
– the Begijnenhuisje (Mon–Sat Beside the Poertoren, a
10am–noon & 1.45–5pm, Sun footbridge spans the southern
10.45am–noon & 1.45–5pm; end of the Minnewater to
€2), a pint-sized celebration of reach the leafy expanse of
the simple life of the beguines. Minnewaterpark, which
The prime exhibit here is the trails north back towards
schapraai, a traditional beguine’s Wijngaardstraat.
THE BEGIJNHOF

77
the world. Also stocks Indian
Shops textiles. Affordable prices.
Bilbo Decorte
Noordzandstraat 82 T 050 33 40 Noordzandstraat 23 T 050 33 46 07.
11, W www.bilbo.be. Mon–Sat Mon–Sat 9am–6pm. Stationery
10am–6.30pm, Sun 2–6pm. The nirvana, with splendid fountain
most popular CD shop in pens, coloured pencils, ink
town, especially amongst the pots, wrapping paper, cards and
city’s young people, thanks to writing paper, at prices to suit

its bargain-basement prices and every budget.
large selection of mainstream
pop and rock – although there’s Kasimir’s Antique Studio
not much in the way of service Rozenhoedkaai 3 T 050 34 56 61.
or presentation. Mon–Sat 10.30am–12.30pm &
2–6pm. Antiques don’t come
The Chocolate Line cheap in Bruges, and Kasimir’s
Simon Stevinplein 19 T 050 34 10 is no exception, but the old
90, W www.thechocolateline.be. furniture on sale here is first-
Mon & Sun 10.30am–6pm, Tues–Sat rate, and there’s an interesting
9.30am–6pm. Probably the assortment of old knick-
best chocolate shop in town, knacks – from ceramics to
serving up quality chocolates, glassware – too.
handmade on the premises using
natural ingredients – so not Knapp Targa
surprisingly, it’s more expensive Zuidzandstraat 18–22 T 050 33
than most of its many rivals. 31 27, W www.knapp-targa.be.
Chocolate truffles and figurines Mon–Sat 10am–6.30pm. Arguably
are a speciality. Boxes of mixed the most enjoyable fashion
chocolates are sold in various shop in town, Knapp Targa’s
sizes: a 250g box costs €10. chic repertoire of top-quality
clothes for men and women
Claeys ranges from the adventurous
Katelijnestraat 54 T 050 33 98 19, – or even challenging – to the
W www.claeysantique.com. Daily classic, with labels including
9am–6pm. Diane Claeys studied Burberry, DKNY, Paul Smith
lace history and design in and Coast.
various museums in Europe
before opening this shop in Leonidas
1980. She now sells handmade, Katelijnestraat 24 T 050 34 69
antique-style lace, from 41. Mon–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun
handkerchiefs to edging and 10am–6pm. Part of the large
tablecloths, and also sometimes and popular Belgian chain,
organizes lace exhibitions here. this chocolate shop offers a
wide selection of pralines and
Classics candy confectionery all at very
Oude Burg 32 T 050 33 90 58. competitive prices (€4.50 for
Tues–Sat 10am–noon & 2–6pm. 250g), though their products
A mixed bag of an art shop are more sugary than those of
selling everything from fine art, their more exclusive rivals. As
tapestries and antiques to more with all chocolate shops along
modern objects in traditional Katelijnestraat, expect queues in
styles, collected from around the summer.

78
Markets
Bruges has a weekly food and flower market on the Markt (Wed 8am–1pm)
and a bigger and better weekly food and general goods market on ’t Zand (Sat
8am–1pm). There’s also a flea market along the Dijver and on the neighbouring
Vismarkt (mid-March to mid-Nov Sat & Sun 10am–6pm), though there are more
souvenir and craft stalls here than bric-à-brac places, and the tourist crowds mean
that bargains are few and far between. If you’re after a bargain, you might consider
popping over to the much larger flea markets in Ghent (see p.125).
Louis Delhaize & 2–6pm. This antiquarian

Oude Burg 22. Mon–Sat hideaway specializes in old
8.30am–6.30pm. Supermarkets and contemporary prints, and
are very thin on the ground also offers a framing service.
in central Bruges, but this fills Seascapes, hunting scenes and
the gap, selling all the basics Bruges cityscapes predominate,
including fresh fruit, bread, beer but there are many other
and cheese. subjects as well.
De Meester Quicke
Dijver 2 T 050 33 29 52. Mon–Sat Zuidzandstraat 23 T 050 33 23 00,
8.30am–noon & 1.30–6.30pm. W www.quicke.be. Mon & Sat
De Meester (aka De Brugse 10am–6.30pm, Tues–Thurs
Boekhandel) is good for books 9.30am–6.30pm. The top shoe
about Bruges, both past and shop in Bruges, Quicke
present, and sells a wide range showcases the great European
of city maps. It’s also reasonably seasonal collections, featuring
strong on several other topics, exclusive designers such as
notably historical subjects, Prada and Miu Miu. Expensive,
literature from home and naturally.
abroad, cookery and gardening.
Standaard Boekhandel
Neuhaus Steenstraat 88 T 050 34 26
Steenstraat 66 T 050 33 15 30, 70. Mon–Sat 8.30am–6pm, Sun
W www.neuhaus.be. Mon–Sat 2–6pm. Proficient and efficient
10am–6pm, Sun 1.30–6pm. chain bookshop, with a small
Belgium’s best chocolate chain English-language fiction
sells superb and beautifully section downstairs and a
presented chocolates. Check comprehensive range of travel
out their specialities such as the guides, city maps and hiking
handmade Caprices – pralines maps up above.
stuffed with crispy nougat,
fresh cream and soft-centred De Striep
chocolate – and the delicious Katelijnestraat 42 T 050 33
Manons – stuffed white 71 12. Mon 1.30–7pm, Tues–Sat
chocolates, which come with 9am–12.30pm & 1.30–7pm, Sun
fresh cream, vanilla and coffee 2–6pm. The only comic-strip
fillings. €11 for a 250g box. specialist in town, stocking
everything from run-of-the-
Pollentier mill cheapies to collector’s
St-Salvatorskerkhof 8 T 050 33 18 items in Dutch, French and
04. Tues–Fri 2–6pm, Sat 10am–noon even English.

79
snacks and light meals such as
Cafés omelettes, pasta and toasties;
there’s also a licensed bar and
De Bron a sandwich deli offering cold
Katelijnestraat 82 T 050 33 45 26. fillings and hot pasties.
Tues–Sat 11.45am–2pm. Many of
the city’s cafés and restaurants Gran Kaffee de Passage
offer vegetarian dishes, but this Dweersstraat 26. Daily 6pm–midnight,
pleasant little place is the only kitchen till 10.30pm. This lively
exclusively vegetarian spot per café is extremely popular with

se, offering fresh, organic food, backpackers, many of whom have
with mains from €10. bunked down in the adjacent
Passage Hostel (see p.146). There’s
Detavernier, Tearoom Carpe a good and filling line in Flemish
Diem food, with many dishes cooked
Wijngaardstraat 8. Mon–Sat 9am–6pm. in beer, as well as mussels and
Wijngaardstraat may heave vegetarian options. Not much in
with tourists and have some the way of frills, but then main
pretty average restaurants, but courses only cost €10–14.
this pleasant little tea room,
attached to a bakery-patisserie, Laurent
serves delicious light meals and Steenstraat 79c. Daily 9am–5.30pm.
cakes. One room is kitted out Cheap and cheerful café metres
in antique style, with oodles from the cathedral. No points
of wood panelling, a second for décor or atmosphere, but
is more modern, and there’s a the snacks are filling and fresh
mini-terrace at the back. and the pancakes first-rate. Very
popular with locals.
’t Eekhoetje
Eekhoutstraat 3. Daily except Lokkedize
Wed 8am–6.30pm. Bright Korte Vuldersstraat 33. Wed–Sun
and airy tearoom, with a 6pm–midnight. Attracting a
small courtyard, just a short youthful crowd, this sympathetic
walk from the crowds of café-bar – all subdued lighting,
Huidenvettersplein. The fresh flowers and jazz music
efficient and friendly staff – serves up a good line in
serve a good selection of tasty Mediterranean (especially
LOKKEDIZE

80
Greek) food, with main courses Christophe
averaging around €11 and bar Garenmarkt 34 T 050 34 48 92. Mon
snacks from €7. & Thurs–Sun 7pm–1am. Convivial,
pocket–sized restaurant with
De Verbeelding attractive, informal decor and
Oude Burg 26. Tues–Sat a small but choice menu of
11.30am–11.30pm. Low-key, French and Flemish dishes. Daily
amenable café-bar serving a specials are a feature and prices
reasonably satisfying range of are very reasonable, with main
salads, pastas and tapas. Few courses averaging around €20.
would say the food was brilliant,

but it is inexpensive and – at its Den Dyver
best – very tasty. Main courses Dijver 5 T 050 33 60 69. Mon, Tues
around €10, half that for tapas. & Fri–Sun noon–2pm & 6.30–9pm,
Handy for the Markt. Wed & Thurs 6.30–9pm. Top-
flight restaurant specializing
in traditional Flemish dishes
Restaurants cooked in beer – the quail and
rabbit are magnificent, though
Cafedraal the seafood runs them close. The
Zilverstraat 38 T 050 34 08 45, decor is plush and antique, with
W www.cafedraal.be. Mon–Sat tapestries on the wall beneath
noon–3pm & 6–11pm. Fashionable an ancient wood-beam ceiling.
and justifiably popular restaurant The service is attentive, but not
decked out in ersatz medieval unduly so, and the only real
style, with oodles of wood negative is the Muzak, which
panelling, a big open fire in can be tiresome. Popular with
winter and an outside garden an older clientele. Reservations
terrace in summer. The menu advised. Mains around €25.
runs the gamut of French and
Flemish dishes, but it’s hard to L’Intermède
beat the North Sea bouillabaisse Wulfhagestraat 3 T 050 33 16 74.
or the lobster and veal cooked Tues–Sat noon–1.30pm & 7–9.30pm.
in mustard. Main courses Tastefully decorated and very
around €20–25. chic little restaurant serving
DEN DYVER

81
exquisite French cuisine with
a Flemish twist. Prices are
reasonable and it’s away from
the tourist zone – which is very
much to its advantage. Mains
€18–24.
Patrick Devos “De Zilveren

Pauw”
Zilverstraat 41 T 050 33 55 66,

W www.patrickdevos.be. Mon–Fri
noon–1.30pm & 7–9pm, Sat
7–9pm. One of Bruges’ premier
restaurants, presided over by
Patrick Devos, a great name
in Belgian cooking and the DE VISSCHERIE
designer of such treats as jelly
of seafood perfumed with occupies a spacious nineteenth-
garlic, and duck with rhubarb. century mansion a short walk
Starters begin at around €30, south of the Burg, but the decor
main courses €35, the set menus has some intriguing modern
much more. It’s a formal – some touches – small sculptures and
would say staid – establishment, so on – and the chairs are
and reservations are essential. supremely comfortable.
Tanuki
Oude Gentweg 1 T 050 34 75 12. Bars and clubs
Wed–Sun noon–2pm & 6.30–9.30pm;
closed two weeks in Jan & July. The B-in
best Japanese restaurant in town Mariastraat 38 T 050 31 13 00,
and perhaps, if you’ve been W www.b-in.be. Tues–Sat 10am–3am,
here a long time, a welcome Fri & Sat until 5am. Free entry. The
break from the heavy sauces coolest place in town, this slick
of Belgian cuisine. The menu bar-cum-club is kitted out in
features all the usual Japanese attractive modern style with low
favourites – noodles, sushi and seats and an eye-grabbing mix
sashimi – and prices are very of coloured fluorescent tubes
competitive, with most dishes
B-IN
around €12.50.
De Visscherie
Vismarkt 8 T 050 33 02 12, W www
.visscherie.be. Daily except Tues
noon–2pm & 7–10pm. Arguably
the city’s premier seafood
restaurant, De Visscherie manages
to be smart and relaxed at the
same time. A well-presented
and imaginative menu features
such delights as a spectacularly
tasty fish soup (€14) and cod
cooked in traditional Flemish
style (€32). The restaurant

L’ E S TA M I N E T
and soft ceiling lights. Guest cosmopolitan clientele. Rickety

DJs play funky, uplifting house furniture both inside and on the
and the drinks and cocktails large outside terrace adds to the
are reasonably priced. Attracts flavour of the place, as does the
a relaxed and friendly crowd, world music backtrack, while
and gets going about 11pm. It’s the first-rate beer menu skilfully
located at the far end of the picks its way through Belgium’s
Oud St-Jan exhibition-cum- myriad beers.
shopping centre off Mariastraat.
Ma Rica Rokk
De Bolero ’t Zand 7 T 050 33 83 58, W www
Garenmarkt 32. Mon, Tues & .maricarokk.com. Daily from 10am
Thurs–Sun from 9pm. Currently the till late. Atmospheric spot with
only gay and lesbian bar/club sparse functional decor that has
in town, hosting regular dance long been a local favourite with
evenings with a wide range of students and townies alike. There’s
sounds, from Abba to house. a youthful clientele, zippy service,
Entrance is free and the drinks a competent beer menu, a
aren’t too over-priced. summer terrace and, at weekends,
some of the best music in town,
Het Brugs Beertje with house especially popular.
Kemelstraat 5. Daily except Tues & Wed Serves Illy coffee too.
4pm–1am. This small and friendly
speciality beer bar claims a stock Wijnbar Est
of three hundred beers, which Noordzandstraat 34 T 050 33 38 39.
aficionados reckon is one of Mon, Thurs & Sun 5pm–midnight,
the best selections in Belgium. Fri 5pm–1am & Sat 3pm–1am. The
There are tasty snacks too, best wine bar in town, with a
including cheeses and salad, but friendly and relaxed atmosphere,
note that the place is very much an extensive cellar and over 25
on the (backpacker) tourist trail. different wines available by the
glass every day – it’s especially
L’Estaminet strong on New World vintages,
Park 5. Daily except Mon and also serves a selection of
11.30am–1am or later, Thurs from cheeses in the evening. There’s
4pm. Groovy café-bar with a live (and free) jazz, blues and
relaxed neighbourhood feel folk music every Sunday from
and (for Bruges) a diverse and 8pm to 10.30pm.

83
J^[=he[d_d][
Cki[kc
The Groeninge Museum (Dijver 12; Tues–Sun
9.30am–5pm; €8, including Arentshuis Museum, see
p.66) possesses one of the world’s finest samples of
P L A C E S Bruges: The Groeninge Museum

early Flemish paintings, from Jan van Eyck through
to Hieronymus Bosch and Jan Provoost. These paint-
ings make up the kernel of the museum’s permanent
collection, but there are later (albeit lesser) pieces on
display too, reaching into the twentieth century, with
paintings by the likes of Constant Permeke and
Paul Delvaux.
The Groeninge has just eleven The painting is very much a

rooms, chronologically arranged; private picture and one that had
the early Flemish paintings are no commercial value, marking
concentrated in Rooms 1 to a small step away from the
4, Rooms 5 and 6 are usually sponsored art – and religious
devoted to the seventeenth preoccupations – of previous
and eighteenth centuries, and Flemish artists.
Rooms 7 to 11 continue on The second Eyck painting
into 1900s. The description is the remarkable Madonna
below details some of the most and Child with Canon George
important works and, although van der Paele, a glowing and
the works in the collection richly symbolic work with
are regularly rotated, you can three figures surrounding the
expect most if not all the ones Madonna: the kneeling canon,
described to be on display. St George (his patron saint)
M A R G A R E TA VA N E Y C K , J A N VA N E Y C K
Jan van Eyck
Arguably the greatest of the
early Flemish masters, Jan van
Eyck (1385–1441) lived and
worked in Bruges from 1430
until his death eleven years
later. He was a key figure in the
development of oil painting,
modulating its tones to create
paintings of extraordinary clarity
and realism. The Groeninge
has two gorgeous examples
of his work in its permanent
collection, beginning with the
miniature portrait of his wife,
Margareta van Eyck, painted
in 1439 and bearing his motto,
“als ich can” (the best I can do).

84
Jan van Eyck’s most magnificent

tapestry at the feet of the
painting, the extraordinary Adoration
Madonna comes from Asia and
of the Mystic Lamb, is displayed
St Donatian is decked out in
in St Baafskathedraal in Ghent
jewel-encrusted vestments.
(see p.111).
Rogier van der Weyden
The Groeninge possesses
and St Donatian, to whom he two fine and roughly
is being presented. St George contemporaneous copies of
doffs his helmet to salute the paintings by Rogier van der
PLACES
infant Christ and speaks by Weyden (1399–1464), one-

means of the Hebrew word time official city painter to
“Adonai” (Lord) inscribed on Brussels. The first is the tiny
his chin strap, while Jesus replies Portrait of Philip the Good, in
through the green parrot in which the pallor of the duke’s
Bruges: The Groeninge Museum
his left hand: folklore asserted aquiline features, along with

that this type of parrot was the brightness of his hatpin
fond of saying “Ave”, the Latin and chain of office, are skilfully
for welcome. The canon’s face balanced by the sombre cloak
is exquisitely executed, down and hat. The second and much
to the sagging jowls and the larger painting, St Luke painting
bulging blood vessels at his the Portrait of Our Lady, is a
temple, while the glasses and rendering of a popular if highly
book in his hand add to his improbable legend which
air of deep contemplation. claimed that Luke painted Mary
Audaciously, Van Eyck has – thereby becoming the patron
broken with tradition by saint of painters. The painting
painting the canon amongst is notable for the detail of its
the saints rather than as a lesser Flemish background and the
figure – a distinct nod to the cheeky-chappie smile of the
humanism that was gathering baby Christ.
pace in contemporary Bruges.
The painting also celebrates Hugo van der Goes
the wealth of Bruges in One of the most gifted of the
the luxurious clothes and early Flemish artists, Hugo
furnishings: the floor tiles are of van der Goes (d.1482) is a
Spanish design, the geometric shadowy figure, though it is
known that he became master
of the painters’ guild in Ghent
in 1467. Eight years later, he
entered a Ghent priory as a
lay-brother, perhaps related to
the prolonged bouts of acute
depression which afflicted
him. Few of his paintings have
survived, but these exhibit a
superb compositional balance
and a keen observational eye.
His last work, the luminescent
Death of Our Lady, is here at
the Groeninge, though it was
originally hung in the abbey
at Koksijde on the coast.
D E AT H O F O U R L A D Y, VA N D E R G O E S

85

TRIPTYCH OF WILLEM MOREEL, MEMLING
Sticking to religious legend, the way back, a tempest blows their

Apostles have been miraculously ship off course and they land
transported to Mary’s deathbed, at Cologne where the (pagan)
where, in a state of agitation, Huns promptly slaughter them.
they surround the prostrate Pious women who suffered for
woman. Mary is dressed in the faith always went down a
blue, but there are no signs storm in medieval Christendom,
of luxury, reflecting both der but somewhere along the line
Goes’ asceticism and his polemic the ten women became ten
– the artist may well have been thousand – possibly because
appalled by the church’s love of the buckets of bones found
glitter and gold. in Cologne were from an old
public burial ground and had
The Master of the nothing to do with Ursula and
St Ursula Legend her chums.
Another highlight of the
Groeninge are the two matching Hans Memling
panels of The Legend of The work of Hans Memling
St Ursula, the work of an (1430–94) is represented by
unknown fifteenth-century a pair of Annunciation panels
artist known as the Master from a triptych – gentle,
of the St Ursula Legend. romantic representations of an
The panels, each of which angel and Mary in contrasting
displays five miniature scenes, shades of grey, a monochrome
were probably inspired by the technique known as grisaille.
twelfth-century discovery of the Here also is Memling’s Moreel
supposed bones of St Ursula and Triptych, in which the formality
the women who were massacred of the design is offset by the
with her in Cologne seven warm colours and the gentleness
centuries before – a sensational of the detail – St Giles strokes
find that would certainly have the fawn and the knight’s hand
been common knowledge in lies on the donor’s shoulder. The
Bruges. Surfacing in the ninth central panel depicts saints Giles
century, the original legend and Maurus to either side of
describes St Ursula as a British St Christopher with a backdrop
princess who avoids an of mountains, clouds and sea.
unwanted marriage by going St Christopher, the patron saint
on a pilgrimage to Rome of travellers, carries Jesus on
accompanied by ten female his shoulders in an abbreviated
companions, sometimes referred reference to the original story
to as nuns or virgins. On their which has the saint, who made

86
his living lugging travellers of his work, starting with the
across a river, carrying a child Baptism of Christ triptych, in
who becomes impossibly heavy. which a boyish, lightly bearded
In the way of such things, Christ is depicted as part of
it turns out that the child is the Holy Trinity in the central
Jesus and the realization turns panel. There’s also one of
Christopher, Christian. The side David’s few secular ventures in
panels show the donors and the Groeninge, the intriguing
their sixteen children along with Judgement of Cambyses, painted
their patron saints – the knight on two oak panels. Based on
Bruges: The Groeninge Museum P L A C E S
St William for Willem Moreel, a Persian legend related by

a wealthy spice trader and Herodotus, the first panel’s
financier, and St Barbara for his background shows the corrupt
wife. There are more Memling judge Sisamnes accepting a
paintings at St Janshospitaal, bribe, with his subsequent arrest
see p.70. by grim-faced aldermen filling
the foreground. The aldermen
Gerard David and crowd in on Sisamnes with a
Hieronymus Bosch palpable sense of menace and,
Born near Gouda, the as the king sentences him to
Dutchman Gerard David be flayed alive, a sweaty look
(c.1460–1523) moved to Bruges of fear sweeps over the judge’s
in his early twenties. Soon face. In the gruesome second
admitted into the local painters’ panel the king’s servants carry
guild, he quickly rose through out the judgement, applying
the ranks, becoming the city’s themselves to the task with
leading artistic light after the clinical detachment. Behind,
death of Memling. Official in the top-right corner, the
commissions rained in on David, fable is completed with the
mostly for religious paintings, judge’s son dispensing justice
which he approached in a from his father’s old chair,
formal manner but with a fine which is now draped with the
eye for detail. The Groeninge flayed skin. Completed in 1498,
holds two excellent examples the painting was hung in the
council chamber by the city
J A D G E M E N T O F C A M B Y S E S , D AV I D
burghers to encourage honesty
amongst its magistrates and as
a sort of public apology for
the imprisonment of Archduke
Maximilian in Bruges in 1488.
Maximilian would almost
certainly have appreciated the
painting – even if the gesture
was itself too little, too late
– as the king dispenses his
judgement without reference
to either the Church or God, a
subtext of secular authority very
much to his tastes.
The Groeninge also holds
Hieronymus Bosch’s
(1450–1516) Last Judgement,
a trio of oak panels crammed

87

L A S T J U D G E M E N T, B O S C H
with mysterious beasts, Gerard David, but from about

microscopic mutants and scenes 1521 his work was reinvigorated
of awful cruelty – men boiled by contact with the German
in a pit or cut in half by a giant painter and engraver Albrecht
knife. It looks like unbridled Dürer, who had himself been
fantasy, but in fact the scenes inspired by the artists of the
were read as symbols, a sort early Italian Renaissance.
of strip cartoon of legend, Provoost moved around too,
proverb and tradition. Indeed working in Valenciennes and
Bosch’s religious orthodoxy is Antwerp, before settling in
confirmed by the appeal his Bruges in 1494. One of his
work had for that most Catholic Bruges contemporaries was
of Spanish kings, Philip II. Adriaen Isenbrant (d.1551),
whose speciality was small,
Jan Provoost and Adriaen precisely executed panels. His
Isenbrant Virgin and Child triptych is a
There’s more grim symbolism in good example of his technically
the crowded and melodramatic proficient work.
Last Judgement by Jan Provoost
(1465–1529), painted for the Bernard van Orley
Stadhuis in 1525, and his Bernard van Orley (1488–1541)
striking The Miser and Death, was a long-time favourite of the
which portrays the merchant Habsburg officials in Brussels
with his money in one panel, until his Protestant sympathies
trying desperately to pass a put him in the commercial
promissory note to the grinning doghouse. A versatile artist,
skeleton in the next. Provoost’s Orley produced action-packed
career was typical of many of paintings of Biblical scenes,
the Flemish artists of the early often backdropped by classical
sixteenth century. Initially he buildings in the Renaissance
worked in the Flemish manner, style, and also designed stained-
his style greatly influenced by glass windows and tapestries. He

88
is represented in the Groeninge crammed with muscular men
collection by the strip-cartoon- and fleshy women; completed
style Legend of St Rochus. A in 1551, its inspiration came
fourteenth-century saint hailing from Michelangelo’s Sistine
from Montpellier in France, Chapel. Born in Gouda,
Rochus was in northern Italy Pourbus moved to Bruges in
on a pilgrimage to Rome his early twenties, becoming
when the plague struck. He the leading local portraitist of
abandoned his journey to his day as well as squeezing in
tend to the sick and promptly work as a civil engineer and
Bruges: The Groeninge Museum P L A C E S
discovered he had miraculous cartographer. Pieter was the

healing powers. This did not first of an artistic dynasty with
stop him from catching the his son, Frans the Elder
plague himself, but fortunately (1545–81), jumping municipal
a remarkable dog was on hand ship to move to Antwerp
to nurse him back to health. as Bruges slipped into the
Recovered, Rochus went back economic doldrums. Frans
home, but his relatives failed was a noted portraitist too,
to recognize him and he was but his success was trifling
imprisoned as an impostor, and in comparison with that of
died there – a hard luck story if his son, Frans the Younger
ever there was one. (1569–1622), who became one
of Europe’s most celebrated
Pieter Pourbus, Frans the portraitists, working for the
Elder and Frans the Younger Habsburgs and the Medicis
The museum’s collection of amongst a bevy of powerful
late sixteenth- and seventeenth- families. In the permanent
century paintings isn’t collection is a fine example of
especially strong, but there’s his work, an exquisite double
enough to demonstrate the portrait of the Archdukes
period’s watering down of Albert and Isabella.
religious themes in favour of
more secular preoccupations. Jacob van Oost the Elder
Pieter Pourbus (1523–84) is Jacob van Oost the Elder
well represented by a series of (1603–71) was the city’s
austere and often surprisingly most prominent artist during
unflattering portraits of the the Baroque period and the
movers and shakers of his day. Groeninge has a substantial
There’s also his Last Judgement, a sample of his work, though
much larger but atypical work, – by comparison with what
has gone before
– his canvases
are pretty
meagre stuff
(and are often
not displayed at
all). His Portrait
of a Theologian,
for example, is
a stultifyingly
formal and
didactic
affair only
V I S I T O R S AT T H E G R O E N I N G E

89
partly redeemed by its crisp him develop a distinctive
draughtsmanship, while his Expressionist style in which his
Portrait of a Bruges Family drips subjects – usually agricultural
with bourgeois sentimentality. workers, fishermen and so
forth – were monumental
The Symbolists in form, but invested with
The Groeninge has a substantial sombre, sometimes threatening
collection of nineteenth- and emotion. His charcoal drawing
early twentieth-century Belgian the Angelus is a typically dark
art, but not nearly enough and earthy representation of

gallery space to display it all – Belgian peasant life dated 1934.
and consequently even the more In similar vein is the enormous
significant paintings aren’t always Last Supper by Gustave van de
on display. Nonetheless, obvious Woestijne (1881–1947), another
highlights include the paintings excellent example of Belgian
of the Symbolists, amongst Expressionism, with Jesus and
whom Fernand Khnopff the disciples, all elliptical eyes
(1858–1921) is represented by and restrained movement,
Secret Reflections, not one of his trapped within prison-like walls.
better paintings perhaps, but Also noteworthy is the
interesting in so far as its lower spookily stark surrealism of
panel, showing St Janshospitaal Serenity by Paul Delvaux
(see p.70) reflected in a canal, (1897–1994). One of the most
confirms one of the Symbolists’ interesting of Belgium’s modern
favourite conceits: “Bruges the artists, Delvaux started out as
dead city”. This was inspired an Expressionist but came to
by Georges Rodenbach’s novel – and stayed with – Surrealism
Bruges la Morte, a highly stylized in the 1930s. Two of his pet
musing on love and obsession motifs were train stations, in one
first published in 1892. The book guise or another, and nude or
kickstarted the craze for visiting semi-nude women set against
Bruges, the “dead city”, where some sort of classical backdrop.
the action unfolds. The upper The intention was to usher the
panel of Khnopff ’s painting is a viewer into the unconscious
play on appearance and desire, with dream-like images where
but it’s really rather feeble, unlike every perspective was exact,
his later attempts, in which he and there is indeed something
painted his sister, Marguerite, very unsettling about his
again and again, using her vision, largely because of the
refined, almost plastic beauty impeccable craftsmanship. At
to stir a vague sense of passion their best, his paintings achieve
– for she’s desirable and utterly an almost palpable sense of
unobtainable in equal measure. foreboding – and Serenity is a
first-class example.
The Expressionists and The Groeninge also owns
Surrealists a couple of minor oils and a
The museum has a healthy number of etchings and drawings
sample of the work of the by James Ensor (1860–1949),
talented Constant Permeke one of Belgium’s most innovative
(1886–1952). Wounded in painters, and Magritte’s
World War I, Permeke’s grim (1898–1967) characteristically
wartime experiences helped unnerving The Assault.

90
Dehj^WdZ[Wije\
j^[CWhaj
The gentle canals and maze-like cobbled streets of
eastern Bruges are extraordinarily pretty, and it’s here
that the city reveals its depth of character. In this
Bruges: North and east of the Markt P L A C E S
uncrowded part of the centre, which stretches east

from Jan van Eyckplein to the old medieval moat,
several different types of architecture blend into an
almost seamless whole, beginning with the classically
picturesque terraces that date from the town’s late
medieval golden age. The most characteristic archi-
tectural feature is the crow-step gable, popular from
the fourteenth to the eighteenth century and revived by
the restorers of the 1880s and later, but there are also
expansive classical mansions and humble cottages.
Almost all the buildings are of brick, reflecting the
shortage of local stone and the abundance of polder
peat, which was used to fire clay bricks, clay being
another common commodity hereabouts. Above all,
eastern Bruges excels in its detail, surprising the eye
again and again with its subtle variety, featuring every-
thing from intimate arched doorways, bendy tiled roofs
and wonky chimneys through to a bevy of discreet
shrines and miniature statues.
Nevertheless, there are one or free. From the Markt, it’s a short
two obvious targets for the visitor, stroll north to St Jakobskerk,
beginning with the Kantcentrum whose sombre exterior, mostly
(Lace Centre), where you can dating from the fifteenth
buy locally made lace, and the century, clusters round a
city’s most unusual church, chunky tower. In medieval
the adjacent Jeruzalemkerk. In times the church was popular
addition, the Folklore Museum with the foreign merchants
holds a passably interesting who had congregated in
collection of local bygones, Bruges, acting as a sort of
while the Museum Onze-Lieve- prototype community centre;
Vrouw ter Potterie (Museum of it also marked the western
Our Lady of the Pottery) has an limit of the foreign merchants’
intriguing chapel and several fine quarter. Inside, the church is
Flemish tapestries. mainly Baroque, its airy nave
interrupted and darkened by a
St Jakobskerk grim marble rood screen with
(Church of St James) an equally cumbersome high
St-Jakobsstraat. April–Sept Mon–Sat altar lurking beyond. Much
10am–noon & 2–5pm, Sun 2–5pm; more appealing is the handsome

91
early Renaissance burial chapel meditative Madonna and the
of Ferry de Gros (d. 1547), Seven Sorrows, a triptych by
to the right of the choir, Pieter Pourbus (1523–84), the
which sports the elaborate, leading local artist of his day.
painted tomb of this well-to-
do landowner. Unusually, the Kraanplein
tomb has two shelves – on East of St Jakobskerk lies
the top are the finely carved Kraanplein – Crane Square
effigies of Ferry and his first – whose name recalls one of the
wife, while below, on the lower medieval city’s main attractions,
P L A C E S Bruges: North and east of the Markt

shelf, is his second. Here also, the enormous wooden crane that
above the altar, is an enamelled once unloaded heavy goods from
terracotta medallion of the the adjoining river. Before it was
Virgin and Child imported covered over, the River Reie ran
from Florence some time in south from Jan van Eyckplein to
the fifteenth century. No one the Markt, and the Kraanplein
knows quite how it ended up dock was one of the busiest
here, but there’s no doubt that parts of this central waterway.
it influenced Flemish artists of Mounted on a revolving post in
the period – in the same way the manner of a windmill, the
as Michelangelo’s statue in crane’s pulleys were worked by
the Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk. means of two large treadmills
The walls of St Jakobskerk are operated by children – a grim
covered with around eighty existence by any measure.
paintings bequeathed by the Installed in 1290 – and only
city’s merchants. They’re not an dismantled in 1767 – the crane
especially distinguished bunch, impressed visitors greatly and
but look out for the finely was as sure a sign of Bruges’s
executed Legend of St Lucy, a economic success as the Belfort.
panel triptych by the Master The crane crops up in the
of the St Lucy Legend that background of several medieval
tracks through the sufferings paintings, notably behind St John
of this fourth-century saint in in Memling’s Mystical Marriage of
some detail; it’s located in St St Catherine (see p.72).
Anthony’s Chapel – the first
chapel on the left-hand side Jan van Eyckplein
of the nave. In the next chapel Just to the north of Kraanplein
along, look out also for the lies Jan van Eyckplein, one of
J A N VA N E Y C K P L E I N

Bruges: North and east of the Markt P L A C E S 92
the prettiest squares in Bruges, its Theoretically, any city merchant

cobbles backdropped by the easy was entitled to be a member
sweep of the Spiegelrei canal. of the Poortersloge, but in fact
The centrepiece of the square is membership was restricted
an earnest statue of Van Eyck, to the richest and the most
erected in 1878, whilst on the powerful. An informal alternative
north side is the Tolhuis, whose to the Town Hall, it was here
fancy Renaissance entrance is that key political and economic
decorated with the coat of arms decisions were taken and it was
of the dukes of Luxembourg, also where local bigwigs could
who long levied tolls here. drink and gamble discreetly.
The Tolhuis dates from the
late fifteenth century, but was The Spiegelrei canal and the
extensively remodelled in Augustijnenbrug
medieval style in the 1870s, as Running east from Jan van
was the Poortersloge (Merchants’ Eyckplein, the Spiegelrei canal
Lodge), whose slender tower was once the heart of the
pokes up above the rooftops foreign merchants’ quarter, its
on the west side of the square. frenetic quays overlooked by

93
the trade missions of many

of the city’s trading partners.
The medieval buildings were
demolished long ago but have
been replaced by an exquisite
medley of architectural styles
from expansive Classical
mansions to pirouetting crow-
step gables.
At the far end of Spiegelrei,
turn left onto Gouden-Handrei,
which, along with adjoining
Spaanse Loskaai, flanks an
especially attractive sliver of
canal that was once used as
a quay by Bruges’s Spanish
merchants. On the far side
of the canal stand a string of
delightful summer outhouses,
SPIEGELREI CANAL

94
privately owned and sometimes fanaticism. Spanjaardstraat leads
surprisingly lavish extensions back to Jan van Eyckplein.
to the demure houses fronting
onto Gouden-Handstraat. St Gilliskerk
At the west end of Spaanse St Gilliskerkhof. April–Sept Mon–Sat
Loskaai is the Augustijnenbrug, 10am–noon & 2–5pm, Sun 2–5pm;
the city’s oldest surviving bridge, free. The sturdy brick pile of
a sturdy three-arched structure St Gilliskerk dates from the late
dating from 1391. The bridge thirteenth century, though it
was built to help the monks of was considerably enlarged in the
a nearby (and long-demolished) 1460s; the church has a wide

Augustinian monastery get into and appealing three-aisled nave,
the city centre speedily; the but its most distinctive feature
benches set into the parapet is its unusual barrel-vaulted
were cut to allow itinerant roof, which was added in the
tradesmen to display their eighteenth century. Among the
goods here. paintings on display, the pick
Heading south from the is the Hemelsdale polyptych
bridge is Spanjaardstraat, which by the prolific Pieter Pourbus
was also part of the Spanish (on the wall just to the right
enclave. It was here, at no.9, of the main doors). It’s a dainty
in a house formerly known as piece of work with the donors
De Pijnappel (The Fir Cone), at either end sandwiching four
that the founder of the Jesuits, scenes from the life of Christ –
Ignatius Loyola (1491–1556), the Adoration of the Shepherds,
spent his holidays while he the arrival of the Magi, the
was a student in Paris. He Flight into Egypt and Jesus’
befriended Juan Luis Vives Circumcision. The church also
(see p.67), who lodged down possesses six eighteenth-century
the street, but unfortunately paintings illustrating the efforts
his friend’s liberality failed of the Trinitarian monks to
to temper Loyola’s nascent ransom Christian prisoners from
the Turks. In themselves, the
paintings are distinctly second-
rate, but the two near the organ
in the top right-hand corner
of the church are interesting in
their sinister representation of
the east – all glowering clouds
and gloomy city walls. The other
four paintings, in the bottom
left-hand corner of the nave,
explain the papal foundation,
in 1198, of the Trinitarians, an
order specifically devoted to
the ransom of Christians held
by Muslims, and one which
enjoyed strong support from
St Gilliskerk.
St Walburgakerk
Koningstraat. April–Sept Mon–Sat
10am–noon & 2–5pm, Sun
ST WALBURGAKERK

95
2–5pm; free.
Southeast of Jan
van Eyckplein, St
Walburgakerk is
a fluent Baroque
extravagance built
for the Jesuits in
the first half of
the seventeenth
century. Framed by

slender pilasters, the
sinuous, flowing KANTCENTRUM
facade is matched
by the extravagance of the square. Almost untouched since
booming interior, awash with its reconstruction, the interior
acres of creamy-white paint. The is a notably homogeneous
grandiose pulpit, complete with example of the Baroque, its
its huffing and puffing cherubs, barrel-vaulted, single-aisled nave
was the work of Artus II Quellin almost drowning in ornately
(1625–1700), an Antwerp carved, dark-stained wooden
woodcarver and sculptor whose panelling. Pride of artistic
family ran a profitable sideline in place going to the marble and
Baroque pulpits. porphyry rood screen of 1628,
The pick of the church’s but you can’t miss the huge
scattering of paintings is a Pieter painting of the Last Judgement,
Claeissens triptych – on the completed by Hendrik
right-hand side of the nave. The Herregouts (1633-1724), who
central panel depicts a popular painted religious scenes in a
legend relating to Philip the score of churches across Dutch-
Good, a fifteenth-century count speaking Belgium.
of Flanders and the founder of
the Order of the Golden Fleece Kantcentrum (Lace Centre)
(see p.74). The story goes that Peperstraat 3. Mon–Fri 10am–noon
as Philip was preparing to fight & 2–6pm, Sat 10am–noon & 2–5pm;
the French, he encountered the €2.50. Just beyond St Annakerk,
Virgin Mary in a scorched tree; at the east end of the Spiegelrei
not one to look a gift horse in canal, is an old working-class
the mouth, Philip fell to his knees district of low brick cottages,
and asked for victory, and his in the middle of which, at the
prayers were promptly answered. foot of Balstraat, lies a complex
of buildings which originally
St Annakerk belonged to the wealthy Adornes
April–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–noon & family, who migrated here
2–5pm, Sun 2–5pm; free. Founded from Genoa in the thirteenth
in the 1490s, St Annakerk came century. Inside the complex, the
a cropper in the religious wars Kantcentrum, on the right-hand
of the sixteenth century when side of the entrance, has a couple
the Protestants burnt the place of busy workshops and offers
to the ground. Rebuilt in the very informal demonstrations of
1620s, the church is a dinky traditional lace-making in the
little structure surmounted by afternoon (no set times). They
the slenderest of brick towers sell the stuff, too – both here
and set within a pleasant little and in the shop at the ticket

96
kiosk – but it isn’t cheap: a didn’t bring Anselm much luck
smallish Bruges table mat, with – he was murdered in gruesome
two swans, for example, costs circumstances in Scotland in
€20–25; if you fancy having a 1483 while serving as Bruges’s
go yourself, the shop has all consul. There’s more grisliness at
the gubbins. the back of the church, where
the small vaulted chapel holds a
Jeruzalemkerk replica of Christ’s tomb – you
(Jerusalem Church) can glimpse the imitation body
Same times and ticket as Kantcentrum down the tunnel behind the
(see p.95). Across the passageway iron grating. To either side of

from the Kantcentrum kiosk is the main altar, steps ascend to
one of the city’s real oddities, the choir, which is situated right
the Jeruzalemkerk. This was below the eccentric, onion-
built by the Adornes family domed lantern tower.
in the fifteenth century as
an approximate copy of the Kantmuseum
Church of the Holy Sepulchre (Lace Museum)
in Jerusalem after one of their Same times and ticket as Kantcentrum.
number, Pieter, had returned Behind the Jeruzalemkerk,
from a pilgrimage to the the tiny Kantmuseum is of
Holy Land. The interior is passing interest for its samples
on two levels: the lower one of antique lace. The museum
is dominated by a large and holds fifty-odd examples of
ghoulish altarpiece, decorated old, handmade lace, the most
with skulls and ladders, in front elaborate of which is its sample
of which is the black marble of late nineteenth-century
tomb of Anselm Adornes, the son Chantilly lace. Incidentally, most
of the church’s founder, and his lace shops in Bruges – and there
wife Margaretha. The pilgrimage are lots – sell lace manufactured
in the Far East, especially China.
JERUZALEMKERK
The best lace shop in town
– for locally made lace – is
’t Apostelientje (see p.101), very
close to the Kantcentrum at
Balstraat 11.
Museum voor Volkskunde

(Folklore Museum)
Balstraat 43. Tues–Sun 9.30am–5pm;
€3. At the north end of Balstraat,
the Museum voor Volkskunde
occupies a long line of low-
ceilinged almshouses set beside
a trim courtyard. The interior
holds a varied collection, with
the emphasis on the nineteenth
and early twentieth centuries,
but the labelling is patchy so
it’s best to pick up an English
guidebook at reception. Rooms
1–5 are to the right of the
entrance, rooms 6–14 are dead

97
modest but enjoyable display
of local costumes and textiles,
including several samplers made
by trainee lacemakers, and Room
7 is a re-created classroom
from circa 1920. Room 11
focuses on popular religion,
with an interesting collection of
pilgrimage banners plus the wax,
silver and iron ex votos that still

hang in many Flemish churches.
Traditionally, the believer makes
a promise to God – say, to
behave better – and then asks for
FOLKLORE MUSEUM
a blessing, like the curing of a
bad leg. Sometimes the ex voto
ahead. Beside the entrance, in is hung up once the promise
Room 15, De Zwarte Kat – the is made, but mostly it’s done
Black Cat – is a small tavern afterwards, in gratitude for the
done out in traditional style and cure or blessing.
serving ales and snacks. Rooms 13 and 14 hold a
The string of period shops display on pipes and tobacco.
and workshops includes a There are all sorts of antique
confectioner’s shop, in Room smokers’ paraphernalia – tobacco
2, where in summer there are cutters, lighters, tinder boxes and
occasional demonstrations so forth – but it’s the selection
of traditional sweet-making. of pipes which catches the eye,
Next door, in Room 3, is an especially the long, thin ones
intriguing assortment of biscuit made of clay. Clay pipes were
and chocolate moulds as well notoriously brittle, so smokers
as cake decorations (patacons). invested in pipe cases, of which
Made of clay, these patacons several are exhibited.
were painted by hand in true
folksy style, with the three most The Guido Gezelle Museum
popular motifs being animals, Rolweg 64. Tues–Sun 9.30am–12pm
military scenes and Bible stories. & 1.30–4.30pm; €2. The Guido
Moving on, Room 6 holds a Gezelle Museum commemorates
Bruges lace
Renowned for the fineness of its thread and beautiful motifs, Belgian lace – or
Flanders lace as it was formerly known – was once famous the world over. It
was worn in the courts of Brussels, Paris, Madrid and London – Queen Elizabeth I
of England is said to have had no fewer than three thousand lace dresses – and
Bruges was a centre of its production. Handmade lace reached the peak of its
popularity in the early nineteenth century, when hundreds of Bruges women worked
as home-based lacemakers. The industry was, however, transformed by the arrival
of machine-made lace in the 1840s and, by the end of the century, handmade
lace had been largely supplanted and most of the remaining lacemakers had gone
to work in factories. This highly mechanized industry collapsed after World War I
when lace, a symbol of an old and discredited order, suddenly had no place in the
wardrobe of most women.

98
who resisted change and
championed medieval – or at
least neo-Gothic – architecture
to maintain Flemish “purity”.
Gezelle resisted cultural change,
too: a secular theatre appalled
him, prompting him to write:
“We are smothered by displays
of adultery and incest… and
the foundations of the family
and of marriage are [being]

undermined”.
St Janshuismolen and the

Kruispoort
At the east end of Rolweg, a
long and wide earthen bank
marks the path of the old
town walls. Perched on top
are a quartet of windmills
GUIDO GEZELLE MUSEUM
– two clearly visible close
by and another two beyond
the poet-priest Guido Gezelle eyeshot, about 300m and 500m
(1830–99), a leading figure in to the north. You’d have to
nineteenth-century Bruges. be something of a windmill
Gezelle was born in this fanatic to want to visit them
substantial brick cottage, which all, but the nearest two are
now contains a few personal mildly diverting – and the
knick-knacks such as Gezelle’s closest, St Janshuismolen, is in
old chair and pipes, plus his death working order, and the only
mask, though it’s mostly devoted one which is open (April–Sept
to a biographical account of his Sat & Sun 9.30am–12.30pm
life. The labelling is, however, & 1.30–5pm; €2). South
only in Dutch and you really of St Janshuismolen is the
need to be a Gezelle enthusiast Kruispoort, a much-modified
to get much out of it. Neither
is Gezelle to everyone’s tastes.
His poetry is pretty average
and the fact that he translated
Longfellow’s Song of Hiawatha
into Dutch is the sort of detail
that bores rather than inspires.
More importantly, Gezelle
played a key role in the
preservation of many of the
city’s medieval buildings and was
instrumental in the creation of
the Gruuthuse Museum. Gezelle
believed that the survival of
the medieval city symbolized
the continuity of the Catholic
faith, a mindset similar to that
of the city’s Flemish nationalists,
ST JANSHUISMOLEN WINDMILL

99
Bruges’s medieval gates

Of the city’s seven medieval gates, four have survived in relatively good
condition, though all have been heavily restored. Apart from the Kruispoort
(see opposite), these are the Gentpoort, on the southeast edge of the centre on
Gentpoortstraat; the Smedenpoort, on the west side of the city centre at the end of
Smedenstraat; and the Ezelpoort – Donkey Gate – to the northwest of the centre.
All four date from the early fifteenth century and consist of twin, heavily fortified,
stone walls and turrets.

and strongly fortified city gate windows date from the 1950s,
dating from 1402. and catch a glimpse of the
modern clubhouse.
Schuttersgilde St Sebastiaan
Carmersstraat 174. May–Sept The Engels Klooster
Tues–Thurs 10am–noon, Sat (English Convent)
2–5pm; Oct–April Tues–Thurs & Sat Carmersstraat 85. Mon–Sat 2–4pm
2–5pm; €3. At the east end of & 4.30–5.30pm; free. During
Carmersstraat, one street up his stay in Bruges, the exiled
from Rolweg, the guild house king Charles II worshipped
of the Schuttersgilde at the Engels Klooster on
St Sebastiaan – The Marksmen’s Carmersstraat. Founded in 1629,
(or Archers’) Guild of the convent was long a haven for
St Sebastian – is a large brick English Catholic exiles, though
pile with a distinctive tower this didn’t stop Queen Victoria
that dates from the middle from popping in during her visit
of the sixteenth century. The to Belgium in 1843. Nowadays,
city’s archers had ceased to be the convent’s nuns provide an
of any military importance by enthusiastic twenty-minute
the time of its construction, guided tour of the lavishly
but the guild had, by then,
ENGELS KLOOSTER
redefined itself as an exclusive
social club where the bigwigs
of the day could spend their
time hobnobbing. Nowadays,
it’s still in use as a social-cum-
sports club with the archers
opting either to shoot at the
familiar circular targets or to
plonk a replica bird on top of a
pole and shoot at it from below
– the traditional favourite.
All in all, the house is hardly
riveting, but it does possess an
attractive old dining hall, where
a bust of Charles II surmounts
the fireplace, recalling the
days when the exiled king
was a guild member (see
box, p.100). Visitors can also
drop by the shooting gallery,
whose medievalist stained-glass

100
Charles II in Bruges
Charles II of England, who spent three years in exile in Bruges from 1656 to 1659,
was an enthusiastic member of the archers’ guild and, after the Restoration, he
sent them a whopping 3600 florins as a thank you for their hospitality. Charles’s
enforced exile had begun in 1651 after his attempt to seize the English crown –
following the Civil War and the execution of his father in 1649 – had ended in
defeat by the Parliamentarians at the Battle of Worcester. Initially, Charles high-
tailed it to France, but Cromwell persuaded the French to expel him and the exiled
king ended up seeking sanctuary in Spanish territory. He was allowed to settle in
Bruges, then part of the Spanish Netherlands, though the Habsburgs were stingy
when it came to granting Charles and his retinue an allowance. The royalists were,
says a courtier’s letter of 1657, “never in greater want… for Englishmen cannot
live on bread alone”. In addition, Cromwell’s spies kept an eagle eye on Charles’s
activities, filing lurid reports about his conduct. A certain Mr Butler informed
Cromwell that “I think I may truly say that greater abominations were never
practised among people than at Charles Stuart’s court. Fornication, drunkenness
and adultery are considered no sins amongst them.” It must have made Cromwell’s
hair stand on end. Cromwell died in 1658 and Charles was informed of this whilst
he was playing tennis in Bruges. The message was to the point – “The devil is
dead” – and Charles was on the English throne two years later.
decorated Baroque church, built as part of the first hospital

whose finest features are the chapel. The left-hand gable
handsome cupola and the altar, belonged to the main medieval
an extraordinarily flashy affair hospital ward and the one on
made of 23 different types of the right marks a second chapel,
marble – a gift of the Nithsdales, added in the 1620s.
English aristocrats whose loyalty Inside, a visit to the museum
to the Catholic faith got them begins in the former sick room,
into no end of scrapes. where a distinctly mediocre
selection of medieval religious
Museum Onze-Lieve-Vrouw paintings is partly redeemed
ter Potterie (Museum of Our by an arresting panel-painting
Lady of the Pottery) of St Michael triumphing over the
Potterierei 79. Tues–Sun Devil, by the Master of the
9.30am–12.30pm & 1.30–5pm; €2.50. St Ursula Legend. Moving on,
The Museum Onze-Lieve- the museum’s chapel is an
Vrouw ter Potterie was founded L-shaped affair distinguished by
as a hospital in the thirteenth a sumptuous marble rood screen,
century on the site of an earlier whose two side altars recall
pottery – hence the name. The the museum’s location beside
hospital (though “hospital” is a what was once one of the city’s
tad misleading, as the buildings busiest quays. The altar on the
were originally used as much left is dedicated to St Anthony,
to accommodate visitors as the patron saint of ships’ joiners,
tend the sick) was remodelled the one on the right to
on several occasions and the St Brendan, the patron saint of
three brick gables that front seamen. There’s also a finely
the building today span three expressed thirteenth-century
centuries. The middle gable is stone statue of the Virgin on
the oldest, dating from 1359 and the main altar, but pride of

101

DE WINDMOLEN
place goes to the set of old well-made furniture, as well as

tapestries that are hung in the smaller items like cushions and
chapel from Easter to October. lamps. Expensive.
These comprise a superbly
naturalistic, brightly coloured
strip cartoon depicting eighteen Cafés
miracles attributed to Our Lady
of the Pottery, almost all to do De Windmolen
with being saved from the sea Carmersstraat 135. Mon–Thurs
or a sudden change of fortune 10am–10pm, Fri & Sun 10am–3pm.
in fishing or trade. Each carries This amiable, neighbourhood
an inscription, but you’ll café-bar, occupying an old
need to be good at Dutch to brick house at the east end
decipher them. of Carmersstraat, dishes up
a decent line in inexpensive
snacks and light meals – croque
Shops monsieur, spaghetti, lasagne
and so forth – and possesses
’t Apostelientje a competent beer menu. Has
Balstraat 11 T 050 33 78 60. Mon–Sat a pleasant outside terrace and
9.30am–6pm, Sun 10am–1pm. Close an interior dotted with folksy
to the Kantcentrum, this small knick-knacks.
shop sells a charming variety
of handmade lace pieces of
both modern and traditional Restaurants
design. If there’s nothing here
that takes your fancy, then try De Karmeliet
the (even smaller) shop in the Langestraat 19 T 050 33 82 59,
Kantcentrum itself. W www.dekarmeliet.be. Tues–Sat
noon–2pm & 7–9.30pm. Smooth
De Roode Steen and polished restaurant – one
Jan van Eyckplein 8 T 050 33 61 51. of the city’s best – occupying
Mon, Tues, Thurs & Fri 10.30am–6pm, a big, old mansion about five
Sat & Sun 1–6pm. Occupying a minutes’ walk east of the Burg.
splendid fifteenth-century house It’s a tad formal for many
on the east side of Jan van tastes, but there’s no disputing
Eyckplein, this shop specializes the excellence of the service
in interior design, with heaps of or the quality of the French
sumptuous soft furnishings and cuisine, with an inventive menu

102
featuring dishes like rabbit (lapin
royale) and marinated cod. À la Bars and clubs
carte mains from around €40;
Reservations essential. Bistro du Phare
Sasplein 2 T 050 34 35 90, W www
In Den Wittekop .duphare.be. Daily except Tues
St-Jakobstraat 14 T 050 33 20 59. 11.30am till late. Off the beaten
Tues–Sat noon–2pm & 6–9.30pm. track in the northeast corner of
This small and intimate, split- the city centre, this busy place
level restaurant is one of the offers filling food, a good range
most appealing in town, its of beers and a canal setting.

decor a fetching mixture of the There’s also a pleasant summer
tasteful and the kitsch. There’s terrace and evening jazz and
smooth jazz as background blues concerts every month or
music plus good Flemish food, so – come early to get a seat.
including the local speciality
of pork and beef stewed in Oud Vlissinghe
Trappist beer. Mains average Blekersstraat 2 T 050 34 37 37,
around €18. W www.cafevlissinghe.be. Wed–Sat
11am–midnight, Sun 11am–7pm.
Kok au Vin With its wood panelling, antique
Ezelstraat 19 T 050 33 95 21. paintings and long wooden tables,
Mon, Tues & Fri–Sun noon–2pm & this is one of the oldest and
6.30–10pm. Swish restaurant most distinctive bars in Bruges,
in tastefully modernized old thought to date from 1515. The
premises on the north side of atmosphere is relaxed and easy-
the city centre. An ambitious going, with the emphasis on
menu covers all the Franco- quiet conversation – there are no
Belgian bases and then some, jukeboxes here. There’s a pleasant
with mains averaging around garden terrace, too.
€25, though lunch is half that.
De Republiek
Rock Fort St-Jacobsstraat 36 T 050 34 02 29,
Langestraat 15 T 050 33 41 13. W www.derepubliek.be. Daily from
Mon–Fri noon–2pm & 6.30–11pm. 11am till 3/4am. One of the most
Chic and highly regarded fashionable and popular café-bars
restaurant with a creative, in town – though not necessarily
international menu of nouvelle the most welcoming staff – with
persuasion. Particularly strong an arty, sometimes alternative
on seafood. Main courses and youthful crew. Does very
average around €20. reasonably priced snacks,
including vegetarian food and
’t Zonneke pasta, and has occasional gigs.
Genthof 5 T 050 33 07 81. Tues–Sat
12.30–2pm & 6.30–10pm. Cosy De Vuurmolen
restaurant whose modern Kraanplein 5 T 050 33 00 79, W www
decor incorporates a few .vuurmolen.be. Daily 10am–7am. This
of the premises’ original crowded, youthful bar has a
sixteenth-century features. The reasonably wide range of beers,
well-cooked meals include steak a large front terrace and some
and pasta, as well as an ample of the best DJs in town playing
selection of fish dishes, from a good mix of sounds – techno
around €19. through house and beyond.

103
:Wcc[
Now a popular day-trippers’ destination, well known
for its easy-going atmosphere and clutch of classy
restaurants, the quaint village of Damme, 7km north-
east of Bruges, was in medieval times the city’s main
seaport. At its height, it boasted a population of ten
thousand souls and guarded the banks of the River
P L A C E S Damme
Zwin, which gave Bruges direct access to the sea. The
river silted up in the late fifteenth century, however, and
Damme slipped into a long decline, its old brick build-
ings rusting away until the tourists and second-homers
arrived to create the pretty and genteel village of today.
Damme’s one main street, The Stadhuis (Town Hall)

Kerkstraat, is edged by what Kerkstraat. Not open to the public.
remains of the medieval town, Funded by a special tax on
most memorably the Stadhuis barrels of herrings, the fifteenth-
(Town Hall) and the Onze Lieve century Stadhuis, just a few
Vrouwekerk (Church of Our steps down Kerkstraat from the
Lady). Kerkstraat also lies at right Sluis canal, is easily the best-
angles to the pretty, tree-lined looking building in the village,
canal that links Bruges with its elegant, symmetrical facade
Damme and, ultimately, Sluis, balanced by the graceful lines
a tiny village over the border of its exterior stairway. In one
in Holland. The Sluis canal of the niches you’ll spy Charles
intersects with the wider and the Bold offering a wedding
busier Leopoldkanaal just 2km ring to Margaret of York, who
to the northeast of Damme, and stands in the next niche along
together they frame a delightfully – appropriately enough, as
scenic sliver of countryside the couple got spliced here in
dotted with whitewashed Damme, a prestige event that
farmhouses and patterned by old attracted aristocratic bigwigs
causeways – perfect for cycling. from all over western Europe.
CANAL NEAR DAMME

104
Arrival and information

There are several ways of reaching Damme from Bruges, the most rewarding being
the seven-kilometre cycle ride out along the tree-lined Brugge–Sluis canal, which
begins at the Dampoort, on the northeast edge of the city centre. Cycle rental is
available in Bruges (see p.155) and in Damme at Tijl en Nele, round the corner
from the Stadhuis at Jacob van Maerlantstraat 2 (reservations advised; T 050 35
71 92; closed Wed; €10 per day).
You can also get from Bruges to Damme by canal boat, with excursions starting
about 500m east of the Dampoort on the Noorweegse Kaai (Easter to mid-Oct 5
Damme P L A C E S
daily each way; 40min; one-way €5.20, return €6.70); tickets are purchased on
board. Connecting bus #4 from the Markt and the bus station, next to the train
station, runs to the Noorweegse Kaai to meet most departures – but check at the
De Lijn information kiosk, outside the train station, before you set out.
Finally, you can reach Damme on city bus #43 from the bus station or the Markt
(April–Sept 6 daily each way; 20min). During the rest of the year, the bus runs
less frequently and you’ll be forced to hang around for longer than you’ll want in
Damme – if, indeed, you can make the return journey at all.
Damme has its own tourist office, across the street from the Stadhuis at Jacob van
Maerlantstraat 3 (Mon–Fri 9am–noon & 2–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–noon & 2–5pm;
mid-April to mid-Oct until 6pm; T 050 28 86 10, W www.toerismedamme.be).
Tijl Ulenspiegel Museum Just down the street from

Jacob van Maerlantstraat 3. Mon–Fri the Stadhuis, St Janshospitaal
9am–noon & 2–5pm, Sat & Sun accommodates a small museum
10am–noon & 2–5pm; mid-April to of five rooms and a dainty little
mid-Oct until 6pm; €2.50. Metres chapel. Room 1 houses a couple
from the Stadhuis, the Tijl of curiously crude parchment-
Ulenspiegel Museum is devoted and-straw peasants’ pictures
to the eponymous folkloric of St Peter and St Paul, while
figure who started out as a rooms 2 and 3 have some fine
fool-cum-prankster in Germany old furniture. Room 4, the main
in the fourteenth century. As room, displays an enjoyable
Ulenspiegel stories spread into sample of Delftware and pewter,
Flanders, so he became more of but it’s the chimneypiece that
a scounderel than a joker until, grabs the attention, a Baroque
that is, the Belgian Charles de extravagance with a cast-iron
Coster (1827–79) subverted the back-plate representing the
legend, turning Ulenspiegel into penance of King David for the
the enemy of King Philip II murder of Bathsheba’s husband.
of Spain and the embodiment Otherwise, the museum holds a
of the Belgian hankering for mildly diverting assortment of
freedom. Coster made Damme liturgical objects, a potpourri
the home of Ulenspiegel, who of ceramic ware and folksy
was accompanied by his fiancée votive offerings.
Nele and his loyal chum
Lamme Goedzak. Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk
(Church of Our Lady)
St Janshospitaal Kerkstraat. May–Sept daily
Kerkstraat. April–Sept Mon & Fri 10.30am–noon & 2.30–5.30pm; €1.
2–6pm, Tues–Thurs, Sat & Sun From St Janshospitaal, it’s a
11am–noon & 2–6pm; €1.50. couple of minutes’ walk further

105
down Kerkstraat to the Onze
Lieve Vrouwekerk, a sturdy
brick structure in classic Gothic
style. The church is attached
to a ruined segment of the
original nave (open access) that
speaks volumes about Damme’s
decline: the church was built
in the thirteenth century, but
when the population shrank
P L A C E S Damme
it was just too big and so the
inhabitants abandoned part
of the nave and the remnants
are now stuck between the
present church and its clumpy
tower. Climb the tower for
panoramic views over the T H E S TA D H U I S , D A M M E
surrounding polders. The
large and enigmatic, three- lines of slender poplar trees
headed modern statue beside which quiver and rustle in the
the tower is the work of the prevailing westerly winds. This
contemporary Belgian painter perfect cycling country extends
and sculptor Charles Delporte. as far as the €34 motorway,
Just beyond the church, on the about 6km from Damme. There
right hand side of Kerkstraat, are lots of possible cycling routes
a footpath branches off along and, if you want to explore
a narrow canal to loop round the area in detail, you should
the west side of Damme, an buy the detailed, 1:50,000
enjoyable ten-minute stroll Fietsnetwerk Brugse Ommeland
through the poplars which Noord cycling map (€6; available
brings you out just west of from any major bookstore or the
the village beside the Brugge– Bruges tourist office) before you
Sluis canal. set out.
One especially rewarding
Cycling around Damme itinerary, taking in some of
Damme lies at the start of a the most charming scenery
pretty little parcel of land, a rural hereabouts, is a fifteen-kilometre
backwater crisscrossed by drowsy round-trip that begins by leaving
canals and causeways, each of Damme to the northeast along
which is shadowed by two long the Brugge–Sluis canal, then
The Battle of Damme

In the summer of 1340, a French fleet assembled in the estuary of the River Zwin
to prepare for an invasion of England. To combat the threat the English king,
Edward III, sailed across the Channel and attacked at dawn. Although they were
outnumbered three to one, Edward’s fleet won an extraordinary victory, his
bowmen causing chaos by showering the French ships with arrows from a safe
distance. A foretaste of the Battle of Crecy, there was so little left of the French
force that no one dared tell King Philip VI of France, until finally the court jester took
matters into his own hands: “Oh! The English cowards! They had not the courage to
jump into the sea as our noble Frenchmen did.” Philip’s reply is not recorded.

106
crosses over the Leopoldkanaal grassy fields before reaching an
before continuing along the intersection where you turn
canal to the hamlet of Hoeke. left to regain the Brugge–Sluis
Here, just over the bridge, waterway.
turn hard left for the narrow
causeway – the Krinkeldijk –
that wanders straight back in the Shops
direction of Damme, running to
the north of the Brugge–Sluis AHA
canal. Just over 3km long, the Kerkstraat 24 T 050 54 85 47. Easter
Damme P L A C E S
causeway drifts across a beguiling to Sept daily 11am–6pm, Fri from

landscape of bright whitewashed 1.30pm; Oct to Easter Tues–Sun
farmhouses and deep-green 1.30–6pm. Cosy little bookshop
SIGNS NEAR DAMME

107
P L A C E S Damme
with a good section on tourist Restaurant De Lieve
attractions in Bruges and its Jacob van Maerlantstraat 10 T 050
immediate surroundings. Sells 35 66 30. Wed–Sun 6–10pm. Just
comics, too. behind the Stadhuis, this smart
and formal restaurant offers
Diogenes the best of Flemish and French
Kerkstraat 22. July & Aug daily cuisine, with mains from €22.
11am–6pm; Sept–June Sat &
Sun 11am–6pm. Pocket-sized Tante Marie Pâtisserie
antiquarian bookshop focusing Kerkstraat 38. Daily except Fri
on literature and art, with many 10am–7pm. Pleasant, modern
English titles. pâtisserie and tea room selling
tasty light meals and the best
cakes and pastries in town.
Cafés and BIJ LAMME GOEDZAK
restaurants
Bij Lamme Goedzak
Kerkstraat 13 T 050 35 20 03.
April–Sept daily except Thurs
11am–10pm; Oct–March Mon–Fri
noon–2pm, Sat & Sun 11am–10pm.
The best restaurant in Damme,
serving snacks and light meals
during the day and mouth-
watering traditional Flemish
dishes, often featuring wild
game, in the evening, when main
courses run at about €25. Also
sells its own house ales and has a
garden terrace at the back and a
pavement terrace at the front.

108
9[djhWb=^[dj
Ghent may be more of a sprawl and less immediately
picturesque than Bruges, its great and ancient rival, but
it still musters a string of superb Gothic buildings and a
bevy of delightful, intimate streetscapes, where antique
brick houses are woven around a skein of narrow
canals. The city’s star turn is undoubtedly
Central Ghent P L A C E S
St Baafskathedraal, home to Jan van Eyck’s remarkable

Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, but it’s well-supported
by a clutch of other attractions including exquisite
medieval guildhouses, enjoyable museums and a
regiment of lively bars and first-class restaurants. But
perhaps most importantly, Ghent remains a quintes-
sentially Flemish city with a tourist industry – rather
than the other way round – and if you find the tourists
and tweeness of Bruges a tad overpowering, this is the
place to decamp, just twenty minutes away by train.
Like Bruges, Ghent prospered

throughout the Middle Ages, A museum pass, valid for three
but it also suffered from days and covering fourteen of the
endemic disputes between the city’s sights and museums, costs
count and his nobles (who just €12.50. It’s available at any of
supported France) and the the fourteen places included, as well
cloth-reliant citizens (to whom as from the tourist office (see p.155)
friendship with England was and some hotels.
vital). Unlike Bruges, however,
Ghent experienced an industrial
boom in the nineteenth century an industrial city, Belgium’s third
and remains first and foremost largest. Many of Ghent’s fine old
CENTRAL GHENT

109
P L A C E S Central Ghent
buildings took a battering as the straight and wide, lined with

city focused on industry, but in elegant old mansions, the former
the last twenty years its ancient habitations of the wealthier,
centre has benefited from French-speaking classes, while,
an extraordinarily ambitious to the north, Flemish Ghent is
programme of restoration and all narrow alleys and low brick
refurbishment which has cleared houses. The two areas meet at the
away the accumulated grime. somewhat confusing sequence of
The shape and structure of squares that spread east from the
the city centre reflects Ghent’s Korenmarkt to St Baafskathedraal.
ancient class and linguistic divide.
The streets to the south of the St Baafskathedraal
Korenmarkt (Corn Market), by St Bavo’s Cathedral, St Baafsplein.
St Niklaaskerk, the traditional Daily: April–Oct 8.30am–6pm;
focus of the city, tend to be Nov–March 8.30am–5pm; free.

110
Walking tours and boat trips

Guided walking tours are particularly popular in Ghent. The standard walking
tour, organized by the tourist office, comprises a two-hour jaunt round the city
centre (May–Oct daily at 2.30pm; Nov–April Sat at 2.30pm; €7); advance booking
– at least a few hours ahead of time – is strongly recommended. Alternatively,
horse-drawn carriages line up outside the Lakenhalle, on St Baafsplein, offering
a thirty-minute canter round town for €25 (April–Oct daily 10am–6pm & most
winter weekends).
Throughout the year, boat trips explore Ghent’s inner waterways, depart-
ing from the Korenlei and Graslei quays, near the Korenmarkt, as well as from
the Vleeshuisbrug, metres from the Groentenmarkt (March to mid-Nov daily
10am–6pm; mid-Nov to Feb Sat & Sun 11am–4pm; €6). Trips last forty minutes
and leave roughly every fifteen minutes, though the wait can be longer as boats
often only leave when reasonably full.
The best place to start an the main timber represents

exploration of the city is the the Tree of Life with an
mainly Gothic St Baafskathedraal, allegorical representation of
squeezed into the eastern corner Time and Truth at its base.
of St Baafsplein and named after a Beyond, the high altar, with
local seventh-century landowner its tons of marble, features an
turned Christian missionary. enthroned St Baaf ascending
The third church on this site, to heaven on an untidy
and two hundred and fifty years heap of clouds, whilst the
in the making, the cathedral is neighbouring north transept
a tad lop-sided, but there’s no holds a characteristically
gainsaying the imposing beauty energetic painting by Rubens
of the west tower, with its long, (1577–1640) entitled St Baaf
elegant windows and perky entering the Abbey of Ghent.
corner turrets. Some 82m high, Dating to 1624, it includes a
the tower was the last major part self-portrait – he’s the bearded
of the church to be completed, head. Also in the north transept
topped off in 1554 – just before is the entrance to the dank
the outbreak of the religious wars and capacious vaulted crypt,
that were to wrack the country a survivor from the earlier
for the next one hundred years. Romanesque church. The crypt
Inside the cathedral, is stuffed with religious bric-a-
the chapel displaying The brac of some mild interest,
Adoration of the Mystic Lamb but the highlight is Justus van
(see opposite) is on the left at Gent’s superb fifteenth-century
the beginning of the mighty triptych, The Crucifixion
fifteenth-century nave, whose of Christ. This depicts the
tall, slender columns give crucified Christ flanked, on the
the whole interior a cheerful left, by Moses purifying the
sense of lightness, though waters of Mara with wood, and
the Baroque marble screen to the right by Moses and the
spoils the effect by darkening bronze serpent which cured
the choir. In the nave, the poisoned Israelites on sight.
principal item of interest is As the Bible has it: “So Moses
the rococo pulpit, a whopping made a bronze serpent [as the
oak and marble affair, where Lord had commanded] and set

111
it on a pole; and if a serpent bit of Ghent invent “Hubert” to
any man, he would look at the counter his fame. No one knows
bronze serpent and live”. the altarpiece’s authorship for
sure, but what is certain is that
The Adoration of the in his manipulation of the
Mystic Lamb technique of oil painting the
Daily: April–Oct Mon–Sat 9.30am–5pm, artist – or artists – was able to
Sun 1–5pm; Nov–March Mon–Sat capture a needle-sharp, luminous
10.30am–4pm, Sun 1–4pm; €3. realism that must have stunned
In a small side chapel to the their contemporaries.
left of the cathedral entrance The altarpiece is now
is Ghent’s greatest treasure, a displayed with its panels open,
winged altarpiece known as The though originally these were
Adoration of the Mystic Lamb (De kept closed and the painting
Aanbidding van het Lam Gods), a only revealed on high days
seminal work of the early 1430s, and holidays. Consequently,
though of dubious provenance. it’s actually best to begin
Since the discovery of a Latin round the back with the cover
verse on its frame in the screens, which hold a beautiful
nineteenth century, academics Annunciation scene with
have been arguing about the archangel Gabriel’s wings
who actually painted it. The reaching up to the timbered
inscription reads that Hubert ceiling of a Flemish house,
van Eyck “than whom none the streets of a town visible
was greater” began, and Jan van through the windows. In a
Eyck, “second in art”, completed brilliant coup of lighting, the
the work, but as nothing else shadows of the angel dapple
is known of Hubert, some art the room, emphasizing the
historians doubt his existence. reality of the apparition
They argue that Jan, who lived – a technique repeated on the
and worked in several cities, opposite cover panel around
including Ghent, was entirely the figure of Mary. Below, the
responsible for the painting and donor and his wife, a certain
that only later, after Jan had Joos Vydt and Isabella Borlout,
firmly rooted himself in the rival kneel piously alongside statues
city of Bruges, did the citizens of the saints.
T H E A D O R AT I O N O F T H E M Y S T I C L A M B

112
By design, the restrained On the right-hand side are
exterior was but a foretaste of two groups, the first being St
what lies within – a striking, Anthony and his hermits, the
visionary work of art whose second St Christopher, shown
brilliant colours and precise here as a giant with a band
draughtsmanship still takes the of pilgrims. On the left side
breath away. On the upper panel come the horsemen, the
level sit God the Father (some inner group symbolizing the
say Christ Triumphant), the Warriors of Christ – including
Virgin and John the Baptist in St George bearing a shield with
gleaming clarity; to the right a red cross – and the outer the
are musician-angels and a nude, Just Judges, each of whom is
pregnant Eve; and on the left is dressed in fancy Flemish attire.
Adam plus a group of singing The Just Judges panel is not,
angels, who strain to read their however, authentic. It was added
music. The celebrated, sixteenth- during the 1950s to replace
century Flemish art critic Karel the original, which was stolen
van Mander argued that the in 1934 and never recovered.
singers were so artfully painted The lost panel features in
that he could discern the Albert Camus’s novel The Fall,
different pitches of their voices whose protagonist keeps it in a
– and, true or not, it is the detail cupboard, declining to return it
that impresses, especially the for a complex of reasons, one of
richly embroidered trimmings which is “because those judges
on the cloaks. are on their way to meet the
In the lower central panel Lamb . . . [but] . . . there is no
the Lamb, the symbol of Christ’s lamb or innocence any longer”.
sacrifice, is depicted in a heavenly Naturally enough, there has
paradise – “the first evolved been endless speculation as to
landscape in European painting”, who stole the panel and why
suggested Kenneth Clark – seen with suspicion ultimately resting
as a sort of idealized Low on a certain Arsène Goedertier,
Countries. The Lamb stands on a stockbroker and conservative
an altar whose rim is minutely politician from just outside of
inscribed with a quotation from Ghent, who made a deathbed
the Gospel of St John, “Behold confession in 1934. Whether he
the Lamb of God, which taketh was acting alone or as an agent
away the sins of the world”. Four for others is still hotly contested
groups converge on the Lamb – some argue that the theft was
from the corners of the central orchestrated by the Knights
panel. In the bottom right are Templar (ridiculous), others by
a group of male saints and up the Nazis (much more likely),
above them are their female but no-one really knows.
equivalents; the bottom left The theft was just one of
shows the patriarchs of the Old many dramatic events to befall
Testament and above them are the painting – indeed it’s
an assortment of bishops, dressed remarkable that the altarpiece
in blue vestments and carrying has survived at all. The Calvinists
palm branches. wanted to destroy it; Philip II
On the side panels, of Spain tried to acquire it; the
approaching the Lamb across Emperor Joseph II disapproved
symbolically rough and stony of the painting so violently that
ground, are more saintly figures. he replaced the nude Adam

113
and Eve with a clothed version
in 1784 (exhibited today on a
column at the start of the nave
just inside the church entrance);
and near the end of World
War II the Germans hid it in
an Austrian salt mine, where
it remained until American
soldiers arrived in 1945.
The Lakenhalle (Cloth Hall)
St Baafsplein. Across from the
cathedral, on the west side of
St Baafsplein, lurks the
Lakenhalle, a dour hunk of
a building with an unhappy
history. Work began on the hall THE BELFORT
in the early fifteenth century,
but the cloth trade slumped only way to reach the adjoining
before it was finished and it Belfort, a much-amended
was only grudgingly completed medieval edifice whose soaring
in 1903. No one has ever spire is topped by a comically
quite worked out what to do corpulent, gilded copper dragon.
with the building ever since, Once a watchtower-cum-
and today it’s little more than storehouse for civic documents,
an empty shell with the city’s the interior is now just an
tourist office tucked away in the empty shell displaying a few
basement on the north side. This old bells and statues alongside
basement was long used as the the rusting remains of a couple
town prison, whose entrance of old dragons, which formerly
was round on the west side perched on top of the spire.
of the Lakenhalle through the The belfry is equipped with a
Mammelokker (The Suckling), a glass-sided lift that climbs up
grandiose Louis XIV-style portal to the roof, where consolation
that stands propped up against is provided in the form of
the main body of the building. excellent views out over the
Part gateway and part warder’s city centre.
lodging, the Mammelokker
was added in 1741 and is The Stadhuis (Town Hall)
adorned by a bas-relief sculpture Botermarkt. Entrance by guided tour
illustrating the classical legend only (May–Oct Mon–Thurs daily at
of Cimon, who the Romans 2.30pm) as the first 45min of the
condemned to death by 2hr walking tour organized by the
starvation. He was saved by his tourist office (see p.155); full 2hr tour
daughter, Pero, who turned €7, Stadhuis only €4. Stretching
up daily to feed him from her along the west side of the
breasts – hence the name. Botermarkt, just to the north of
the Lakenhalle, is the striking,
The Belfort (Belfry) recently restored Stadhuis. The
St Baafsplein. Mid-March to mid-Nov building’s main facade comprises
daily 10am–6pm; €3. The first- two distinct sections. The later
floor entrance on the south section, framing the central
side of the Lakenhalle is the stairway, dates from the 1580s

114
tours amble round a series of
halls and chambers, the most
interesting being the old Court
of Justice or Pacificatiezaal
(Pacification Hall), where the
Pacification of Ghent treaty
was signed in 1576. A plaque
commemorates this agreement,
which momentarily bound
the rebel armies of the Low
Countries (today’s Belgium

and The Netherlands) together
against their rulers, the Spanish
Habsburgs. The carrot offered
by the dominant Protestants
was the promise of religious
C O AT O F A R M S , S TA D H U I S
freedom, but they failed to
deliver and much of the south
and offers a good example of (present-day Belgium) soon
Italian Renaissance architecture, returned to the Spanish fold.
its crisp symmetries faced by The hall’s charcoal and cream
a multitude of black-painted tiled floor is designed in the
columns. In stark contrast are form of a maze. No one’s quite
the wild, curling patterns of certain why, but it’s supposed
the section to the immediate that more privileged felons (or
north, carved in Flamboyant sinners) had to struggle round
Gothic style at the turn of the the maze on their knees as
sixteenth century to a design by a substitute punishment for
one of the era’s most celebrated a pilgrimage to Jerusalem – a
architects, Rombout Keldermans good deal if ever there was one.
(1460–1531). The whole of the
Stadhuis was originally to have St Niklaaskerk
been built by Keldermans, but Emile Braunplein. Mon 2–5pm,
the money ran out when the Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; free.
wool trade collapsed and the Southwest of the Stadhuis,
city couldn’t afford to finish it St Niklaaskerk is an architectural
off until much later – hence hybrid, dating from the
today’s discordant facade. Look thirteenth century, which was
carefully at Keldermans’ work once the favourite church of
and you’ll spot all sorts of the city’s wealthier merchants.
charming details, especially in It’s the shape and structure
the elaborate tracery, decorated that pleases most, especially
with oak leaves and acorns as the arching buttresses and
well as vines laden with grapes. pencil-thin turrets which, in
Each one of the ornate niches a classic example of the early
was intended to hold a statuette, Scheldt Gothic style, elegantly
but Keldermans never quite got attenuate the lines of the nave.
round to them and the present Inside, many of the Baroque
carvings, representing important furnishings and fittings have
historical personages in been removed and the windows
characteristic poses, were added un-bricked, thus returning the
in the nineteenth century. church to its early appearance,
Inside the Stadhuis, guided though unfortunately this

115
does not apply to a
clumsy and clichéd
set of statues of the
apostles. Much better
is the giant-sized
Baroque high altar
with its mammoth
representation of
God the Father
glowering down
its back, blowing
the hot wind of
the Last Judgement
from his mouth
and surrounded by
a flock of cherubic
angels. The church
is sometimes used
for temporary art
exhibitions, which
can attract an
admission fee.
ST NIKLAASKERK
The Korenmarkt
St Niklaaskerk marks the turrets that pierce the Ghent
southern end of the Korenmarkt skyline – just as it was meant to:
(Corn Market), a long and the bridge was built to provide
wide cobbled area where the visitors to the Great Exhibition
grain that once kept the city with a vantage point from
alive was traded after it was which to admire the city centre.
unloaded on the neighbouring As such, it was one of several
Graslei dock (see below). schemes dreamed up to enhance
The one noteworthy building Ghent’s medieval appearance,
here is the former post office, one of the others being the
whose combination of Gothic demolition of the scrabbly
Revival and neo-Renaissance buildings that had sprung up
styles illustrates the eclecticism in the lee of the Lakenhalle.
popular in Belgium at the The bridge also overlooks the
beginning of the twentieth city’s oldest harbour, the Tussen
century. The carved heads Bruggen (Between the Bridges),
encircling the building represent from whose quays – the
the rulers who came to the Korenlei and the Graslei – boats
city for the Great Exhibition of leave for trips around the city’s
1913; among them, curiously canals (see box, p.110).
enough, is a bust of Florence
Nightingale. The interior is The guild houses of the
now a shopping mall. Graslei
Ghent’s boatmen and
St Michielsbrug grainweighers were crucial to
Behind the post office, the the functioning of the medieval
neo-Gothic St Michielsbrug city, and they built a row of
(St Michael’s Bridge) offers fine splendid guild houses along the
views back over the towers and Graslei, each gable decorated

116
with an appropriate sign or limestone Spijker (Staple
symbol. Working your way House), at no. 10, boasts a
north from St Michielsbrug, surly Romanesque facade
the first building of distinction dating from around 1200. It
is the Gildehuis van de Vrije was here that the city stored
Schippers (Guild House of its grain supply for over five
the Free Boatmen), at no. 14, hundred years until a fire
where the badly weathered gutted the interior. Finally,
sandstone is decorated with three doors down at no. 8,
scenes of boatmen weighing the splendid Den Enghel
anchor, plus a delicate carving takes its name from the angel
of a caravel – the type of bearing a banner that decorates
Mediterranean sailing ship used the facade; the building was
by Columbus – located above originally the stonemasons’
the door. Medieval Ghent had guild house, as evidenced by
two boatmen guilds: the Free, the effigies of the four Roman
who could discharge their martyrs who were the guild’s
cargoes within the city, and the patron saints, though they are
Unfree, who could not. The depicted in medieval attire
Unfree Boatmen were obliged rather than togas and sandals.
to unload their goods into the
vessels of the Free Boatmen The Groentenmarkt
at the edge of the city – an Just north of Graslei, on the
inefficient arrangement by any far side of Hooiard street, is
standard, though typical of the the Groentenmarkt (Vegetable
complex regulations governing Market), one of the city’s
the guilds. prettier squares, a jumble of
Next door, at nos. 12–13, old buildings which house
the seventeenth-century one especially distinctive
Cooremetershuys (Corn shop, Tierenteyn, the mustard
Measurers’ House) was specialist (see p.125). The west
where city officials weighed side of the square is flanked by
and graded corn behind a a long line of sooty stone gables
facade graced by cartouches which were once the retaining
and garlands of fruit. Next walls of the Groot Vleeshuis
to this, at no. 11, stands the (Great Butchers’ Hall), a covered
quaint Tolhuisje, another market in which meat was sold
delightful example of Flemish under the careful control of
Renaissance architecture, built the city council. The gables
to house the customs officers date from the fifteenth century
in 1698, while the adjacent but are in poor condition
and the interior is
only of interest
for its intricate
wooden roof.
The Korenlei
From the north
end of Graslei, the
Grasbrug bridge
leads over to the
Korenlei, which trips
along the western
C A R V I N G O F C A R A V E L G U I L D H O U S E O F T H E F R E E B O AT M E N

117
DESIGN MUSEUM
side of the old city harbour. by tall and slender columns that
Unlike the Graslei opposite, shoot up to the arching vaults of
none of the medieval buildings the roof. Most of the furnishings
have survived here and instead and fittings are Gothic Revival,
there’s a series of expansive, pedestrian stuff enlivened by
high-gabled Neoclassical a scattering of sixteenth- and
merchants’ houses, mostly dating seventeenth-century paintings,
from the eighteenth century. the pick of which is a splendidly
It’s the general ensemble impassioned Crucifixion by
that appeals rather than any Anthony van Dyck (1599–1641)
particular building, but the in the north transept. Trained in
Gildehuis van de Onvrije Antwerp, where he worked in
Schippers (Guild House of the Rubens’ workshop, van Dyck
Unfree Boatmen), at no.7, does made extended visits to England
boast a fetching eighteenth- and Italy in the 1620s, before
century facade decorated returning to Antwerp in 1628.
with whimsical dolphins and He stayed there for four years
bewigged lions, all bulging eyes – during which time he painted
and rows of teeth. this Crucifixion – before migrating
to England to become portrait
St Michielskerk painter to Charles I and his court.
Onderbergen. April–Sept Mon–Sat
2–5pm; free. At the south end of The Design Museum
Korenlei, on the far side of Jan Breydelstraat 5. Tues–Sun
St Michielsbrug, rises the bulky 10am–6pm; €2.50; W www
mass of St Michielskerk, a heavy- .designmuseumgent.be. At the
duty Gothic structure begun in north end of Korenlei is the
the 1440s. The city’s Protestants Design Museum, one of the
seem to have taken a particularly city’s more enjoyable museums,
strong disliking to the place, which focuses on Belgian
ransacking it twice – once in decorative and applied arts. The
1566 and again in 1579 – and wide-ranging collection divides
the repairs were never quite into two distinct sections.
finished, as witnessed by the At the front, squeezed into
forlorn and clumsily truncated what was once an eighteenth-
tower. Entered on Onderbergen, century patrician’s mansion,
the interior is, however, much is an attractive sequence
more enticing, the broad sweep of period rooms, mostly
of the five-aisled nave punctuated illustrating the Baroque and

Central Ghent P L A C E S 118
H E T G R AV E N S T E E N
the Rococo. The original considering the castle has been

dining room is especially fine, used for all sorts of purposes
from its fancy painted ceiling since then (it was even used as
and ornate Chinese porcelain a cotton mill), it has survived
to its elaborate wooden in remarkably good nick. The
chandelier and intricately imposing gateway comprises a
carved elm panelling. deep-arched, heavily fortified
The second section, at the tunnel leading to the courtyard,
back of the mansion, comprises which is framed by protective
a gleamingly modern display battlements complete with
area used both for temporary wooden flaps, ancient arrow
exhibitions and to showcase the slits and apertures for boiling oil
museum’s eclectic collection of and water.
applied arts dating from 1880 Overlooking the courtyard
to the present day. There are stand the castle’s two main
examples of the work of many buildings: the count’s residence
leading designers, but the Art on the left and the keep on
Nouveau material is perhaps the the right, each riddled with
most visually arresting, especially narrow, interconnected staircases
the finely crafted furnishings of set within the thickness of the
the Belgian Henry van der Velde walls. A self-guided tour takes
(1863–1957). you through this labyrinth, the
first highlight being a room full
Het Gravensteen of medieval military hardware,
St Veerleplein. Daily: April–Sept from suits of armour, pikes,
9am–5/6pm; Oct–March 9am–4/5pm; swords and daggers through
€6. At the top of Jan to an exquisitively crafted
Breydelstraat, turn right and sixteenth-century crossbow.
cross the bridge to reach Het Beyond is a gruesome collection
Gravensteen, the castle of the of instruments of torture,
counts of Flanders, which the count’s cavernous state
looks sinister enough to have rooms and a particularly dank,
been lifted from a Bosch underground dungeon (an
painting. Its cold, dark walls oubliette). It’s also possible to
and unyielding turrets were walk along most of the castle’s
first raised in 1180 as much to encircling wall, from where
intimidate the town’s unruly there are pleasing views over the
citizens as to protect them and, city centre.

119
St Veerleplein and the Oude two guilds, the weavers and the
Vismarkt fullers. The murderers fled for
Public punishments ordered their lives and were condemned
by the counts and countesses to death in absentia, but were
of Flanders were carried out eventually – eight years later
in front of the castle on – pardoned on condition that
St Veerleplein, now an attractive they paid for the construction of
cobbled square with an ersatz a set of almshouses, which was
punishment post, plonked here to be named after the victims.
in 1913 and topped off by a lion The result was the Huis van
carrying the banner of Flanders. Alijn, which became a hospice
At the back of the square, beside for elderly women and then a
the junction of the city’s two workers’ tenement until the
main canals, is the grandiloquent city council snapped it up in
Baroque facade of the Oude the 1950s.
Vismarkt (Old Fish Market), The museum consists of
in which Neptune stands on two sets of period rooms
a chariot drawn by sea horses. depicting local life and
To either side are allegorical work in the eighteenth and
figures representing the River nineteenth centuries, one each
Leie (Venus) and the River on either side of the central
Scheldt (Hercules) – the two courtyard. The duller rooms
rivers that spawned the city. The hold reconstructed shops and
market itself is in a terrible state, workshops – a dispensary, a
scheduled for restoration – or cobbler’s and so forth – the
possibly demolition. more interesting are thematic,
illustrating particular aspects
Huis van Alijn Museum of traditional Flemish society.
Kraanlei 65. Tues–Sat 11am–5pm, There are, for example, good
Sun 10am–5pm; €2.50; displays on funerals and death,
W www.huisvanalijn.be. A short popular entertainment – from
stroll east of St Veerleplein brass bands through to sports
is one of the city’s more and fairs – and on religious
popular attractions, the Huis beliefs in an age when every
van Alijn, a folklore museum ailment had its own allocated
which occupies a series of saint. The more substantial
exceptionally pretty little exhibits are explained in free
almshouses set around a multilingual leaflets, which are
central courtyard. Dating from available in the appropriate
the fourteenth century, the room, but generally the
almshouses were built following labelling is very skimpy. One
a major scandal reminiscent of the rooms on the right
of Romeo and Juliet. In 1354, hand side of the museum has a
two members of the Rijms bank of miniature TV screens
family murdered three of the showing short, locally made
rival Alijns when they were amateur films in a continuous
at Mass in St Baafskathedraal. cycle. Some of these date back
The immediate cause of the to the 1920s, but most are
affray was rivalry between post-war including a snippet
members of the families over featuring a local 1970s soccer
the same woman, but the team in terrifyingly tight shorts.
dispute went deeper, reflecting Overlooking the central
the commercial animosity of courtyard in between the two

120
sets of period rooms is the web of brick terraced houses
chapel, a pleasantly gaudy affair dating from the seventeenth
built in the 1540s and now century. Once the heart of the
decorated with folksy shrines Flemish working-class city, this
and votive offerings. When thriving residential quarter had,
they aren’t out on loan, the by the 1970s, become a slum
chapel is also home to a pair threatened with demolition.
of “goliaths”, large and fancily After much to-ing and fro-ing,
dressed wooden figures that are the area was saved from the
a common feature of Belgian developers and a process of
street processions and festivals. gentrification begun, the result

being today’s gaggle of good bars
Along Kraanlei and smashing restaurants. The
Pushing on along Kraanlei from process is still under way and the
the Huis van Alijn Museum, it’s fringes of the Patershol remain a
only a few paces more to two ragbag of decay and restoration,
especially fine facades. First up, but few Belgian cities can boast
at no.79, is De Zeven Werken a more agreeable drinking and
van Barmhartigheid (The Seven eating district.
Works of Mercy), a building One specific sight here is the
which takes its name from the grand old Carmelite Monastery
miniature panels which decorate on Vrouwebroersstraat, now the
its front. The panels on the top Provinciaal Cultuurcentrum
level, from left to right, illustrate Caermersklooster (T 09 269 29
the mercies of visiting the 10, W www.caermersklooster
sick, ministering to prisoners .be), which showcases
and burying the dead, whilst temporary exhibitions of
those below (again from left to contemporary art, photography,
right) show feeding the hungry, design and fashion.
providing water for the thirsty,
and clothing the naked. The Dulle Griet
seventh good work – giving At the north end of Kraanlei,
shelter to the stranger – was an antiquated little bridge leads
provided inside the building, over to Dulle Griet (Mad Meg),
which was once an inn, so, a lugubrious fifteenth-century
perhaps rather too subtly, there’s cannon whose failure to fire
no decorative panel. provoked a bitter row between
The adjacent Fluitspeler (The Ghent and the nearby Flemish
Flautist), the corner house at no. town of Oudenaarde, where it
81, dates from 1669 and is now was cast. In the 1570s, fearful
occupied by a restaurant. The of a Habsburg attack, Ghent
six bas-relief terracotta panels purchased the cannon from
on this facade sport allegorical Oudenaarde. As the region’s
representations of the five senses most powerful siege gun, able
plus a flying deer; above, on the to propel a 340kg cannon
cornice, are the figures of Faith, ball several hundred metres,
Hope and Charity. it seemed a good buy, but
when Ghent’s gunners tried
The Patershol and it out the barrel cracked on
Provinciaal Cultuurcentrum first firing and, much to the
Caermersklooster chagrin of Ghent’s city council,
Behind Kraanlei are the lanes Oudenaarde refused to offer a
and alleys of the Patershol, a tight refund. The useless lump was

121
on each other in a riot that
cost 500 lives – a day that
was subsequently entered on
the civic calendar as Kwade
Maandag (Wicked Monday).
In the middle of the square
stands a nineteenth-century
statue of the guild leader Jacob
van Artevelde (see box below),
portrayed addressing the people
in heroic style.
Of the buildings flanking
the Vrijdagmarkt, the most
appealing is the former
Gildehuis van de Huidevetters
A R T E V E L D E S TAT U E
(Tanners’ Guild House), at
no.37, a tall, Gothic structure
then rolled to the edge of the whose pert dormer windows
Vrijdagmarkt, where it has and stepped gables culminate in
stayed ever since. a dainty and distinctive corner
turret – the Toreken. Also
The Vrijdagmarkt and Bij worth a second glance is the
St Jacobs old headquarters of the trade
From Dulle Griet, it’s only a unions, the whopping Ons Huis
few metres to the Vrijdagmarkt, (Our House), a sterling edifice
a wide square that was long the built in eclectic style at the turn
political centre of Ghent, the of the twentieth century.
site of both public meetings and Adjoining Vrijdagmarkt is
executions – and sometimes busy Bij St Jacobs, a sprawling
both at the same time. It was square sprinkled with antique
here, too, at the sound of shops and set around a sulky
the bells, that the guildsmen medieval church. The square
gathered whenever their rights hosts the city’s biggest and best
were infringed, though on one flea market (prondelmarkt) on
occasion, on May 2, 1345, the Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays
fullers and the weavers turned from 8am to 1pm.
Jacob van Artevelde

One of the shrewdest of Ghent’s medieval leaders, Jacob van Artevelde
(1290–1345) was elected captain of all the guilds in 1337. Initially, he steered
a delicate course during the interminable wars between France and England,
keeping the city neutral – and the textile industry going – despite the machi-
nations of both warring countries. Ultimately, however, he was forced to take
sides, plumping for England. This proved his undoing: in a burst of Anglomania,
Artevelde rashly suggested that a son of Edward III of England become the new
Count of Flanders, an unpopular notion that prompted a mob to storm his house
and hack him to death.
Artevelde’s demise fuelled further outbreaks of communal violence and, a few
weeks later, the Vrijdagmarkt witnessed a riot between the fullers and the weavers
that left five hundred dead. This rumbling vendetta – one of several that plagued
the city – was the backdrop to the creation of the Huis van Alijn (see p.119).

122
St Jorishof third house along – formerly
Commonly known as a heavily protected aristocratic
St Jorishof, the building facing mansion called the Grote
the Stadhuis, on the corner of Sikkel – is now the home of a
Botermarkt and Hoogpoort, music school, but the blackened
is one of the city’s oldest, its remains of an antique torch-
heavy-duty stonework dating snuffer remain fixed to the wall
from the middle of the fifteenth beside the grand double doors.
century. This was once the
home of the Crossbowmen’s Geeraard de Duivelsteen
Guild, and although the Reep. No admission. Southeast of

crossbow was a dead military St Baafskathedraal, the
duck by the time it was built, forbidding Geeraard de
the guild was still a powerful Duivelsteen is a fortified palace
political force – and remained of splendid Romanesque
so until the eighteenth century. design built of grey limestone
It was here, in 1477, that Mary in the thirteenth century. The
of Burgundy (see p.71) was stronghold, bordered by what
pressured into signing the remains of its moat, takes its
Great Privilege confirming the name from Geeraard Vilain,
city’s commercial freedoms. who earned the soubriquet
She was obviously not too “duivel” (devil) for his acts of
offended as later that year this cruelty or, according to some
was where she chose to receive sources, because of his swarthy
the matrimonial ambassadors features and black hair. Vilain
of the Holy Roman Emperor, was not the only noble to wall
Frederick III. Frederick himself up within a castle – well
was pressing the suit of his into the fourteenth century,
son, Maximilian, who Mary Ghent was dotted with fortified
duly married, the end result houses (stenen), such was the
being that Flanders became a fear the privileged few had of
Habsburg fiefdom. the rebellious guildsmen. The
last noble moved out of the
Hoogpoort Duivelsteen in about
Lining up along the 1350 and since then the
Hoogpoort, beyond St Jorishof, building has been put to a
are some of the oldest facades bewildering range of uses – at
in Ghent, sturdy if sooty various times it served as an
Gothic structures dating from arsenal, a prison, a madhouse
the fifteenth century. The and an orphanage; nowadays it
houses government offices.
GEERAARD DE DUIVELSTEEM
Lieven Bauwensplein and the

van Eyck monument
Just south of the Duivelsteen is
Lieven Bauwensplein, a square
that takes its name from – and
has a statue of – the local
entrepreneur who founded the
city’s machine-manufactured
textile industry. Born in 1769,
the son of a tanner, Bauwens
was an intrepid soul, who posed

123
Shops
Aleppo
Oudburg 70 T 04
77 33 98 56, Mon
noon–5.30pm,
Tues–Sat noon–6.30pm.
Designer
secondhand clothes
for men and
women, including
big names like
Ralph Lauren and
Armani. Specializes
in (believe it or
not) cowboy outfits,
with an abundance
of leather and
denim. The first
floor is dedicated
to 1960s and 1970s
ALEPPO
retro gear.
as an ordinary textile worker in Alternatief

England to learn how its (much Baudelostraat 15 T 09 223 23 11.
more technologically advanced) Mon–Sat 11am–6.30pm. Great range
machinery worked. In the of good-quality secondhand
1790s, he managed to smuggle clothes and paraphernalia. Take
a spinning jenny over to the a moment to browse the shop
continent and soon opened at the back as well, where you’ll
cotton mills in Ghent. It didn’t, find everything from old cars to
however, do Bauwens much the last in kitsch.
good: he over-borrowed and
when there was a downturn in Bethsabis
demand, his factories went bust Hoogpoort 5 T 09 225 54 54.
and he died in poverty. Mon–Fri 9.45am–noon & 12.45–6pm,
North of the square, on Sat 9.45am–6pm. Bargain shoe
Limburgstraat, stands a shop offering big names at low
monument to the Eyck brothers, prices – snap up a pair of Prada
Hubert and Jan, the painter(s) of shoes, for example, at half the
the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb. regular price.
The monument is a somewhat
stodgy affair, knocked up for the Claudia Sträter
Great Exhibition of 1913, but Kalandestraat 6 T 09 233 78
it’s an interesting piece of art 40. Mon–Thurs 10am–6pm,
propaganda, proclaiming Hubert Fri & Sat 10am–6.30pm. This
as co-painter of the altarpiece, Dutch designer has gained
when this is very speculative an international reputation
(see p.111). Open on Hubert’s amongst women in the last few
knees is the Bible’s Revelations, years and is especially popular
which may or may not have in Belgium. The shop’s light
given him artistic inspiration. and spacious interior offers

124
the perfect setting for Sträter’s and toys. Intriguing at best, twee
stylish collections, which at worst, but a useful source of
include feminine tailored jackets unusual gifts.
and quality sporty casuals.
Galerie St John
Cora Kemperman Bij St Jacobs 15 T 09 225 82 62.
Mageleinstraat 38 T 09 233 77 83, Mon–Thurs 2–6pm, Fri & Sat
W www.corakemperman.nl. Mon–Sat 10am–noon & 2–6pm, Sun
10am–6pm. This much lauded 10am–noon. One of several
Dutch designer is popular antique shops in the vicinity,
amongst Belgian women for her this place sells an alluring range
unique but accessible designs in of objets d’art from silverware
natural colours and fabrics. and chandeliers through to oil
paintings. Great location, too
Count’s Gallery – in an old church overlooking
Rekelingestraat 1 T 09 225 31 27. this busy square.
Wed–Sun 10am–6pm. This odd
little shop, just opposite Het Interphilia
Gravensteen, sells an eclectic St Baafsplein 4 T 09 225 46 80. Mon
range of souvenirs, miniature & Wed–Sat 10am–noon & 1–5.30pm.
models, postcards and so forth Temptingly old-fashioned stamp
– great for kitsch gifts. shop (with a sideline in coins),
where every nook and cranny is
Dulce stuffed to the gills.
Jan Breydelstraat 1 T 09 223 48
73. Tues–Sat 10am–6pm. One Kloskanthuis
of the best independent Jan Breydelstraat 2 T 09 223 60 93.
chocolate makers in Ghent Tues–Sat 10am–6pm. Ghent’s one
– the handmade pralines are and only specialist lace shop,
delectable. though the lace is actually part
of a wider line in home linen.
The Fallen Angels Well presented and displayed,
Jan Breydelstraat 29–31 T 09 223 though Bruges has more choice
94 15, W www.the-fallen-angels – see p.77 & p.101.
.com. Wed–Sat 1–6pm. Mother and
daughter run these two adjacent Neuhaus
shops, selling all manner of old St Baafsplein 20 T 09 223 43 74,
bric-a-brac from postcards and W www.neuhaus.be. Daily 10am–6pm.
posters through to teddy bears Belgium’s best chocolate
chain, with mouthwatering
chocolates at €11 for 250g –
try their Manons, stuffed white
chocolates, which come with
fresh cream, vanilla and coffee
fillings.
Obius
Meerseniersstraat 4 T 09 223 82 69,
W www.obius.be. Mon 1.30–6.30pm,
Tues–Sat 10.30am–6.30pm. This
friendly shoe and clothes shop,
catering for both men and
women, has all the designer
T H E FA L L E N A N G E L S

125
Markets
Ghent does a good line in open-air markets. There’s a large and popular flea
market (prondelmarkt) on Bij St Jacobs and adjoining Beverhoutplein (Fri, Sat
& Sun 8am–1pm); a daily flower market on the Kouter, on the south side of the
centre, just off Veldstraat (7am–1pm); organic foodstuffs on the Groentenmarkt
(Fri 7.30am–1pm); and a bird market (not for the squeamish) on the Vrijdagmarkt
on Sundays (7am–1pm).
gear you need, including shelf upon shelf of ceramic jars.
Prada, Bruno Pieters, A small jar will set you back
Miu-Miu and Patrick Cox, about €6.
among many others.
’t Vlaams Wandtapijt
Olivier Strelli (for men) St Baafsplein 6 T 09 223 16 43.
Stiletto, Volderstraat 19 T 09 225 82 Mon–Sat 9.30am–6pm. The
20, W www.strelli.be. Mon–Sat great days of Belgian tapestry
10am–6pm. Showcases Strelli’s manufacture are long gone,
stylish if pricey men’s collection, but the industry survives, albeit
including sharp, well-tailored in diminished form, and this
suits and smart casual wear. shop features its products. The
large tapestries on sale here
Olivier Strelli (for women) are mostly richly decorated
Kalandestraat 19 T 09 233 62 85, modern renditions of traditional
W www.strelli.be. Mon–Sat 10am–6pm. motifs and styles. As you might
The main Ghent emporium expect, they’re expensive (from
of Olivier Strelli, arguably around €500), though there’s
Belgium’s leading designer, also a good range of much more
offering simple but chic modern affordable stuff like cushion
clothes for women. Specializes covers, handbags and other
in smart tailored skirts and smaller knick-knacks.
dresses in zesty coloured fabrics.
Expensive.
Cafés
Peeters Delicatessen
Hoornstraat 9 T 09 225 69 68. Brooderie
Mon–Sat 9am–6.30pm. Petite Jan Breydelstraat 8. Tues–Sun
cheese and wine shop with 8am–6pm. Pleasant and informal
a traditional feel to it, even café with a health-food slant,
down to the owner’s apron offering wholesome breakfasts,
and hat. Stocks an excellent lunches, sandwiches and salads
range of Belgian cheeses, as (from around €9), plus cakes
well as a good selection of jam and coffee. Also offers bed and
and marmalade. breakfast (see p.150).
Tierenteyn Patisserie Bloch

Groetenmarkt 3. Mon–Sat Veldstraat 60, on the corner with
8.30am–6pm. This traditional Voldersstraat. Mon, Tues & Thurs
shop, one of the city’s most 9.30am–6pm, Fri & Sat 9.30am-5pm.
delightful, makes its own Something of a local institution,
mustards – wonderful, tongue- and a favourite with shoppers
tickling stuff displayed in for donkey’s years, this tearoom

126
offers a lip-smacking variety heart of the Patershol, this
of cakes and confectioneries, charmingly intimate restaurant
washed down with premium occupies an old terrace house
coffees and teas. Snacks are with a trim crowstep gable.
available too – though these are A select but extremely well-
no great shakes – and there’s a chosen menu features the
takeaway service. The decor is freshest of ingredients prepared
really rather ordinary – the place with creative gusto – locally
is a bit like a canteen – but if reared antelope in jenever sauce
you like cakes you won’t give for example. Main courses
a hoot. from €20.
Souplounge Amadeus
Zuivelbrug 4, just off Vrijdagmarkt. Plotersgracht 8 T 09 225 13 85.
Daily 10am–7pm. Bright and Mon–Wed 7–11pm, Thurs
cheerful modern café where the noon–2.30pm & 7–11pm, Fri–Sun
big bowls of freshly made soup noon–2.30pm & 6pm–midnight. In
are the main event – from €6. the heart of the Patershol, this
Self-service. busy, well-established restaurant
specializes in spare ribs. Long
tables, oodles of stained glass,
Restaurants low ceilings and an eccentric
sprinkling of bygones makes
De 3 Biggetjes the place relaxed and convivial.
Zeugsteeg 7 T 09 224 46 48, W www Main courses at around €20.
.de3biggetjes.com. Mon, Tues, Thurs
& Fri noon–2pm & 7–9pm, Sat Avalon
7–9pm, Sun noon–2pm. In the Geldmunt 32 T 09 224 37 24.
Mon–Thurs 11.30am–2.30pm, Fri
BIJ DEN WIJZEN EN DEN ZOT
& Sat 11.30am–2.30pm & 6–9pm.
This spick-and-span vegetarian
restaurant offers a wide range of
well-prepared food. The key pull
is the daily lunchtime specials,
which cost about €9. Choose
from one of the many different
rooms inside or the terrace at
the back in the summer.
Bij den wijzen en den zot

Hertogstraat 42 T 09 223 42 30.
Tues–Sat noon–2pm & 6.30–9.30pm.
One of the better restaurants
in the Patershol, serving up
Flemish cuisine with more
than a dash of French flair. Soft
lighting and classical music
set the tone. The premises
are charming too – an old
brick house of tiny rooms and
narrow stairs with dining on
two floors. Prices are bearable,
with main courses averaging

127
House of Eliott
Jan Breydelstraat 36 T 09 225 21 28,
W www.thehouseofeliott.be.
Mon & Thurs–Sun noon–2pm &
6–10pm. Idiosyncratic, spilt-
level restaurant strewn with
Edwardian bric-a-brac and
offering a limited but well-
chosen menu of meat and fish
dishes, all freshly prepared and
very tasty. The window tables
overlook a canal and, if the
weather holds, you can eat out
on the pontoon at the back.
Mains €20–25.
DE BLAUWE ZALM
Malatesta
about €24; house specialities Korenmarkt 35. Daily except Tues
include eel, cooked in several 11.30am–2.30pm & 6–11pm.
different ways, and waterzooi Informally fashionable café-
(fish or chicken stew). restaurant decorated in strong,
modern style and offering tasty
De Blauwe Zalm pizza and pasta dishes from €12.
Vrouwebroersstraat 2 T 09 224 Handy location too, bang in the
08 52. Mon & Sat 7–9.30pm, centre of the city.
Tues–Fri noon–2pm & 7–9.30pm.
Outstanding seafood restaurant Marco Polo Trattoria
– the best in town – serving Serpentstraat 11 T 09 225 04 20.
up everything from the more Tues–Fri noon–2.30pm & 6–10pm,
usual cod, salmon, monkfish Sat & Sun 6–10pm. This simple
and haddock through to the rustic restaurant is part of the
likes of seawolf, sea bass, turbot Italian “slow food” movement
and John Dory. Fish tanks keep in which the emphasis is on
the crustacea alive and kicking, organic, seasonal ingredients
and the decor has a distinctly prepared in a traditional
maritime feel – though it’s all manner. The menu is small,
done in impeccable, ultra-cool but all the dishes are freshly
style. Main courses from €20. prepared and delicious. Mains
Reservations pretty from €13.
much essential.
Domestica
Onderbergen 27 T 09 223 53 00.
Mon 6.30–10.30pm, Tues–Fri
noon–2.30pm & 6.30–10.30pm, Sat
6.30–10.30pm. Smart and chic
brasserie-restaurant serving up
an excellent range of Belgian
dishes – both French and
Flemish – in nouvelle cuisine
style. Has a garden terrace for
good-weather eating. Main
courses from €20.
‘T DREUPELKOT

Central Ghent P L A C E S 128
DULLE GRIET
Pakhuis
Schuurkenstraat 4 (down a narrow Bars and clubs
alley near St Michielsbrug) T 09 223
55 55, W www.pakhuis.be. Mon–Sat ’t Dreupelkot
noon–2.30pm & 6.30–11pm. Set in Groentenmarkt 12. Daily: July &
an intelligently remodelled old Aug from 6pm until late; Sept–June
warehouse with acres of glass from 4pm until late. Cosy bar
and metal, this lively bistro- specializing in jenever (Dutch
brasserie is one of Ghent’s gin), of which it stocks more
more fashionable restaurants, than 215 brands, all kept at
attracting a wide-ranging icy temperatures – the vanilla
clientele. The extensive menu flavour is particularly delicious.
features Flemish and French It’s down a little alley leading off
cuisine, with mains averaging the Groentenmarkt – and next
€18. There’s a bar area too door to Het Waterhuis.
(Mon–Sat 11.30am–1am).
Dulle Griet
Vrijdagmarkt 50. Mon 4.30pm–1am,
Tues–Sat noon–1am, Sun
noon–7.30pm. Long, dark and
atmospheric bar with all manner
of incidental objets d’art and an
especially wide range of beers.
Pink Flamingos
Onderstraat 55 T 09 233 47 18,
W www.pinkflamingos.be. Mon–Wed
noon–midnight, Thurs & Fri noon–3am,
Sat 2pm–3am, Sun 2pm–midnight.
Weird and wonderful place,
whose interior is the height
of kitsch, with plastic statues
of film stars, tacky religious
icons and Barbie-dolls – if it’s
cheesy, you’ll find it somewhere
amidst and amongst the clutter.
Attracts a groovy crowd, and is
ROCOCO

129
a great place for
an aperitif or
cocktail.
Rococo
Corduwaniersstraat
57. Daily except
Mon 10pm
until late. This
intimate café-
cum-bar attracts
a diverse but
ultra-cool DEN TURK
clientele and is
a perfect place to be on a cold Den Turk
winter evening, with candles Botermarkt 3. Daily from 11am until
flickering and the fire roaring. late. The oldest bar in the city,
Stocks a good range of wines this tiny rabbit-warren of a
and beers, and also has home- place offers a good range of
made cakes. beers and whiskies, but much
of its atmosphere disappeared
De Tempelier when it was recently renovated.
Meersenierstraat 9. Wed–Sat 10pm Hosts frequent live music acts,
until late. Few tourists venture mainly jazz.
into this small, dark and
intriguing old bar, which offers Het Waterhuisaan de
a vast range of beers at lower- Bierkant
than-usual prices. The place Groentenmarkt 9. Daily 11am until
attracts a sometimes eccentric late. More than a hundred types
clientele, plus frequent live of beer are available in this
bands. It’s very close to Dulle engaging, canalside bar, which is
Griet, off Vrijdagmarkt. popular with tourists and locals
alike. Be sure to try Stropken
De Trollekelder (literally “noose”), a delicious
Bij St Jacobs 17. Mon–Thurs local brew named after the time
5pm–2am & Fri–Sun 4pm–2am. in 1453 when Philip the Good
This dark and atmospheric bar compelled the rebellious city
offers a huge selection of beers burghers to parade outside the
in an ancient merchant’s house town gate with ropes around
– don’t be deterred by the trolls their necks.
stuck in the window.

130
Iekj^[hdWdZ
[Wij[hd=^[dj
Although the majority of Ghent’s key attractions are
within easy strolling distance of the Korenmarkt, two
of the city’s principal museums are located some 2km
Southern and eastern Ghent P L A C E S
south of the centre. These are the newly refurbished

Museum voor Schone Kunsten (Fine Art Museum) and
the adjacent Museum of Contemporary Art, S.M.A.K.
Many visitors just hop on a tram at the Korenmarkt
for the quick trip down to the two, but with a little
more time the twenty-minute walk there can take in
several less well-known sights. The route suggested
below begins by heading south from the Korenmarkt
along Veldstraat, Ghent’s main shopping street, before
dropping by the two museums.
East of St Baafskathedraal, once a strategically important

Ghent’s eighteenth- and location. It was here, in 630, that
nineteenth-century suburbs the French missionary St Amand
stretch out toward the founded an abbey, though
Dampoort train station. Few the locals could not have
tourists venture this way, which been overly impressed as they
is hardly surprising given ended up drowning him in the
that the main attraction, the river. Nonetheless, St Amand’s
enchanting ruins of St Baafsabdij abbey survived to become a
(St Bavo’s Abbey), are currently famous place of pilgrimage on
closed, though you might check account of its guardianship of
with the tourist office (see the remains of the seventh-
p.155) to see if they’ve been century St Bavo. In the ninth
reopened. century, the abbey suffered a
major disaster when the Vikings
St Baafsabdij decided this was the ideal spot
Spanjaardstraat. Closed until to camp while they raided the
further notice. Beginning at the surrounding region, but order
Duivelsteen (see p.122), the was eventually restored, another
best route out to St Baafsabdij colony of monks moved in
is along Reep and then and the abbey was rebuilt in
Gebroeders Van Eyckstraat. 950. The Emperor Charles V
The latter leads to the bridge had most of this second abbey
over the River Leie, on the knocked down in the 1540s
far side of which turn left and and the monks decamped to
first right down Spanjaardstraat. St Baafskathedraal, but somehow
The extensive ruins of the ruins managed to survive.
St Baafsabdij ramble over a If the abbey is closed, as is
narrow parcel of land beside presently the case, the only
the river, occupying what was thing you’ll see is the retaining

131
wall, but inside the abbey’s to the Chinese salon, whose
extensive ruins include the original silk wallpaper has
remnants of an ivy-covered survived intact. The Duke of
Gothic cloister, whose long Wellington stayed here in 1815
vaulted corridors are attached after the Battle of Waterloo,
to a distinctive, octagonal tower, popping across the street to the
comprising a toilet on the Hôtel d’Hane-Steenhuyse, at
bottom floor and the storage no.55, to bolster the morale
room – the sanctuarium – for of the refugee King of France,
the St Bavo relic up above. The Louis XVIII (see box, p.134).
P L A C E S Southern and eastern Ghent

lower level of the substantial Dating to 1768, the grand
two-storey building attached facade of Louis’s hideaway has
to the cloister holds all sorts survived in good condition, its
of architectural bits and pieces elaborate pediment sporting
retrieved from the city during allegorical representations
renovations and demolitions. of Time and History, but at
There are gargoyles and finely present there’s no access to the
carved Gothic heads, terracotta expansive salons beyond.
panels, broken off chunks Pushing on down Veldstraat,
of columns and capitals, and it’s a couple of minutes further
several delightful mini-tableaux. to a matching pair of grand,
There’s precious little labelling, Neoclassical nineteenth-century
but it’s the skill of the carving buildings. On the right hand
that impresses and, if you’ve side is the Justitiepaleis (Palace
already explored the city, one of Justice), whose colossal
or two pieces are identifiable, pediment sports a frieze with
principally the original lion the figure of Justice in the
from the old punishment middle, the accused to one
post on St Veerleplein (see side and the condemned on
p.119). A flight of steps leads the other. Opposite stands the
up from beside the museum grandiloquent opera house
to the Romanesque refectory, – home to De Vlaamse Opera
a splendid chamber whose (see p.158) – its facade awash
magnificent, hooped timber with playfully decorative
roof dates – remarkably enough stone panels.
– from the twelfth century. From the opera house, it’s
The grounds of the abbey are an easy, if dull, ten-minute
small, but they are partly wild, a stroll south to S.M.A.K. and
flurry of shrubs and flowers that the Museum voor Schone
are absolutely delightful – and Kunsten via the Nederkouter,
perfect for a picnic.
Veldstraat
The city’s main shopping street,
Veldstraat, leads south from the
Korenmarkt, running parallel
to the River Leie. By and large,
it’s a very ordinary strip, but the
eighteenth-century mansion at
no.82 hold the modest Museum
Arnold Vander Haeghen
(Mon–Fri 9am–noon & 2–5pm;
free), where pride of place goes
PA L A C E O F J U S T I C E

PLACES 132

133
PLACES

134
Louis XVIII in Ghent

Abandoning his throne, Louis had hot-footed it to Ghent soon after Napoleon
landed in France following his escape from Elba. While others did his fighting for
him, Louis waited around in Ghent gorging himself – his daily dinner lasted all of
seven hours and the bloated exile was known to polish off one hundred oysters at
a sitting. His fellow exile, the writer and politician François Chateaubriand, ignored
the gluttony and cowardice, writing meekly that “The French alone know how to
dine with method”. Thanks to Wellington’s ministrations, Louis was persuaded to
return to his kingdom and his entourage left for Paris on June 26, 1815, one week
after Waterloo.
but it’s better – and not much their way past grottoes and
longer – to walk along the ponds, statues and fountains, a
banks of the River Leie: turn waterfall and a bandstand. These
off Nederkouter at Verlorenkost nineteenth-century niceties
and then – with the Coupure survive today and this is what
canal and its dinky swing bridge you still see in good order,
dead ahead – hang a left along though a large brick complex
the river. was added on the east side of
the park in the 1940s which is
STAM now occupied by a conference
Godshuizenlaan. Founded in the centre and S.M.A.K (see below).
thirteenth century, the old If you’ve spent a lot of time in
Cistercian Bijlokeabdij (Bijloke Flanders, however, Citadelpark is
Abbey) on Godshuizenlaan, remarkable for one thing: a hill
just to the west of the River – just about everywhere else is
Leie, was savaged by Calvinists pancake flat.
on several occasions, but much
of the medieval complex has S.M.A.K.
survived, its tidy brown-brick Citadelpark. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm;
buildings set behind a handsome €5; W www.smak.be. One of
Baroque portal. The abbey is Belgium’s most adventurous
currently closed to visitors as contemporary art galleries,
part of a major redevelopment S.M.A.K. (the Stedelijk
which will create STAM Museum voor Actuele Kunst,
(W www.stamgent.be), a museum or Municipal Museum of
devoted to the city’s heritage. Contemporary Art) is given
The surrounding grounds are over to temporary exhibitions
being redeveloped too with of international quality
the creation of a concert supplemented by a regularly
hall, studios and an academy. rotated selection of sculptures,
The work is scheduled for paintings and installations
completion in 2009. distilled from the museum’s
wide-ranging permanent
Citadelpark collection. S.M.A.K. possesses
Open access; free. Citadelpark examples of all the major
takes its name from the fortress artistic movements since
that stood here until the 1870s, World War II – everything
when the land was cleared from surrealism, the CoBrA
and prettified with a network group and pop art through to
of leafy footpaths steering minimalism and conceptual

135
art, as well as their forerunners, room described. The layout of
most notably René Magritte the collection doesn’t seem to
and Paul Delvaux. Perennial follow much of a scheme, but
favourites include the it’s small enough to be easily
installations of the influential manageable; free museum plans
German Joseph Beuys are issued at reception.
(1921–86), who played a leading Beginning with the numbered
role in the European avant- rooms on the right, one
garde art movement of the highlight of the museum’s small
1970s, and a characteristically but eclectic collection of early

unnerving painting by Francis Flemish paintings is Rogier
Bacon (1909–92) entitled A van der Weyden’s (1399–1464)
Figure Sitting. Madonna with Carnation, the
proffered flower serving as
Museum voor Schone a symbol of Christ’s passion.
Kunsten (Fine Art Museum) Also in Room 2 are two
Citadelpark. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; works by Hieronymus Bosch
€4; W www.mskgent.be. Directly (1450–1516), most notably his
opposite S.M.A.K. is Ghent’s Bearing of the Cross, showing
largest and most acclaimed art Christ mocked by some of the
gallery, the recently refurbished most grotesque and deformed
Museum voor Schone Kunsten, characters Bosch ever painted.
which occupies an imposing Look carefully and you’ll see
Neoclassical edifice on the that Christ’s head is at the
eastern edge of Citadelpark. centre of two diagonals, one
Inside, the central atrium and representing evil, the other
connecting rotunda are flanked good – the latter linking the
by a sequence of rooms, with repentant thief with St Veronica,
older paintings exhibited to the whose cloak carries the imprint
right in Rooms 1–8, the bulk of of Christ’s face. Moving on,
the eighteenth- and nineteenth- highlights include Mary and
century collection in Rooms Child by Adriaen Isenbrandt
13–19, and early twentieth- (d.1551) in Room 3; a
century works mostly on the powerful St Francis by Rubens
left in Rooms A–S. There’s (1577–1640) in Room 5;
not enough space to display and the robust romanticism
all the permanent collection at of the Judgement of Midas by
any one time, so there’s some Jacob Jordaens (1593–1678) in
rotation, but you can expect Room 7. Jordaens was greatly
to see the paintings mentioned influenced by Rubens, but was
below even if they aren’t in the also capable of much greater
S.M.A.K.

136
subtlety – his Studies of the buildings three centuries later,
Head of Abraham Grapheus, also but it was rebuilt on a grand
in Room 7, is an example of scale and became rich and
the high-quality preparatory powerful in equal measure. In
paintings he completed, most 1578, the Protestants destroyed
of which were later recycled the abbey as a symbol of much
within larger compositions. In that they hated and the present
the same room, Anthony van complex – a real Baroque
Dyck’s (1599–1641) Jupiter and monstrosity incorporating two
Antiope wins the bad taste award courtyard complexes – was
for its portrayal of the lecherous erected in the seventeenth and

god, with his tongue hanging eighteenth centuries. The last
out in anticipation of sex monks were ejected during
with Antiope. the French occupation in 1796
Room P displays one of the and since then – as with many
museum’s most celebrated other ecclesiastical complexes
paintings, the Self-Portrait with in Belgium – it’s been hard
Flower Hat by James Ensor to figure out any suitable use.
(1860–1949), whose remarkable Today, much of the complex
work can also be seen in serves as municipal offices, but
Rooms F, I, J and K. Room R visitors can pop into the domed
is distinguished by two St Pieterskerk, which was
harrowing studies by Ostend’s modelled on St Peter’s in Rome,
Leon Spilliaert (1881–1946), though the interior is no more
while Room C displays several than a plodding Baroque.
characteristically unsettling To the right of the church,
works by Paul Delvaux part of the old monastic
(1897–1994) and René Magritte complex has been turned into
(1898–1967), most memorably an arts exhibition centre, the
the latter’s Persepective II. Manet’s Kunsthal St Pietersabdij
Balcony, in which the figures (Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; free,
from Manet’s painting have been though some exhibitions charge
replaced by wooden coffins. an entrance fee). Several of
the adjacent cellars, rooms and
Overpoortstraat and corridors can also be explored
St Pietersabdij with “Alison”, a multilingual
From just to the east of the Fine audioguide geared up for teens
Art Museum, Overpoortstraat and pre-teens (same times; €6).
runs north through the heart There’s precious little to actually
of the city’s student quarter, a see here, but youngsters seem to
gritty and grimy but vivacious enjoy this miniature labyrinth.
district, jam-packed with late-
night bars and inexpensive cafés. Vooruit
Overpoortstraat finally emerges St Pietersnieuwstraat 23 T 09 267
on St Pietersplein, a very wide 28 28, W www.vooruit.be. Café-bar:
and very long cobbled square Mon–Thurs 11.30am–2am, Fri &
flanked by the sprawling mass Sat 11.30am–3am, Sun 4pm–2am.
of St Pietersabdij (St Peter’s It’s a brief stroll north from St
Abbey). The abbey dates back Pietersplein to Vooruit, a café-
to the earliest days of the city cum-performing arts centre that
and was probably founded by is, to all intents and purposes,
St Amand in about 640. The the cultural heart of the city
Vikings razed the original (at least for the under-40s),

137
offering a varied programme of selection of shoes for men
rock and pop through to dance. and women.
Vooruit also occupies a splendid
building, a twin-towered and The English Bookshop
turreted former Festival Hall Ajuinlei 15 T 09 223 02 36.
that was built for Ghent’s Mon–Sat 10am–6pm. Small, but
socialists in an eclectic rendition well-stocked secondhand
of Art Nouveau in 1914. bookstore selling all sorts of
cheap English-language books,
particularly on historical and

Shops military subjects.
Atlas and Zanzibar FNAC

Kortrijksesteenweg 19 T 09 220 Veldstraat 88 T 09 223 40 80, W www
87 99, W www.atlaszanzibar.be. .fnac.be. Mon–Sat 10am–6.30pm.
Mon–Fri 10am–1pm & 2–6.30pm, Several floors of music, books
Sat 10am–1pm & 2–6pm. Specialist and newspapers, including a
travel bookshop offering a good English-language section.
comprehensive selection of It’s also excellent for maps,
Belgian hiking maps and many including a comprehensive
English guidebooks. range of Belgian hiking maps,
and sells tickets for most
Betty Boop mainstream cultural events.
Overpoortstraat 110 T 09 222 05
76, W www.bettyboop.be. Mon, Tues, Home Studio
Thurs & Fri noon–7pm, Wed 2–7pm Nederkouter 30 T 0473 93 05 72. Wed,
& Sat noon–6pm. All the best Fri & Sat 10am–6pm. Specialists
Belgian comics, both traditional in chic Italian contemporary
and new, plus a selection from furniture. Very minimalist, and
America and manga from Japan. all in neutral tones.
Boomerang INNO
Kortrijksepoortstraat 142 T 09 225 Veldstraat 86 T 09 225 58 65.
37 07. Tues–Sat 2–6.15pm. One of Mon–Thurs & Sat 9.30am–6pm, Fri
the best and most stylish retro 9.30am–7pm. This large Belgian
and secondhand clothing shops department store specializes
in the city; also has a good in clothes, and also has a good
B O S C H PA I N T I N G , S T B A A F S K AT H E D R A A L

138
games and toys department, plus bio-burgers to pastas, noodles
household goods. and baguettes, all for just a
few euros.
Kaas Mekka
Koestraat 9 T 09 225 83 66. Tues–Sat Quetzal De Chocolade Bar
8am–6.30pm. Literally the St-Pietersnieuwstraat 99. Mon–Thurs
“Cheese Mecca”, this small 7am–11pm, Fri–Sun 1–7pm, July &
specialist cheese shop offers a Aug daily 1–7pm only. Chocolate
remarkable range of traditional aficionados will get their fix
and exotic cheeses – try some in this bright and modern café
of the delicious Ghent goats’ devoted to the cocoa bean.

cheese (geitenkaas). Treats on offer range from
the humble chocolate chip
Koffiebranderij Coffee cookie to a chocolate fondue
Roasters Sao Paulo for two, as well as a plethora of
Koestraat 24 T 09 225 44 11. chocolate-flavoured drinks, and
Mon 12.30–6.30pm, Tues–Sat coffee. Takeaway available.
9am–6.30pm. Excellent range
of coffee, either pre-packed
or freshly ground to your Bars and clubs
specifications, plus all sorts of
other coffee paraphernalia. Decadance
Overpoortstraat 76 T 09 329 00 54.
Olivade Daily from 10pm until 8–10am, Sun
Koestraat 25 T 09 225 40 42. until midnight. This funky/grungy
Tues–Sat 10am–6pm. Gift shop- club near the university (hence
cum-foodstore specializing in the abundance of students)
all things to do with olives, offers one of the city’s best
from the stuffed variety (free nights out, with reggae,
tastings available) to oils, vinegar hip-hop, drum ’n’ bass and
and marinades. Also has a small garage-techno vibes.
selection of takeaway pasta
and rolls. Vooruit
St Pietersnieuwstraat 23 T 09 267
Van Hecke 28 28, W www.vooruit.be. Café-bar:
Koestraat 42 T 09 225 43 57. Mon–Thurs 11.30am–2am, Fri & Sat
Mon–Sat except Wed 9.30am–6pm. 11.30am–3am, Sun 4pm–2am. The
Independent chocolatier, Vooruit performing arts centre
arguably the best in town, has good claim to be the city’s
selling handmade chocolates cultural centre (at least for
rustled up on the premises. Sells under-40s), offering a wide-
cakes too. ranging programme of rock
and pop through to dance.
(It also occupies a splendid
Cafés building, a twin-towered and
turreted former hall that was
Greenway built for Ghent’s socialists in
Nederkouter 42. Mon-Sat 11am-9pm. an eclectic rendition of Art
Straightforward café-cum- Nouveau in 1914.) The café-
takeaway decorated in sharp bar is a large barn-like affair
modern style, selling a wide that gets jam-packed till well
range of “green” foods, from into the morning.

Accommodation
03 Bruges Accommodation 139-150.139 139 12/20/07 10:45:49 AM

141
7YYecceZWj_ed
The great thing about staying in (at least some) English. Standards
AC C O M M O DAT IO N Bruges
either Bruges or Ghent is that are generally high, but note that
most of the more interesting hoteliers are wont to deck out
and enjoyable hotels are in or their foyers rather grandly, often
near the centre, which is exactly in contrast to the spartan rooms
where you want to be. The beyond, while many places offer
main difference is that in Bruges rooms of widely divergent size
you’re spoilt for choice as the and comfort. We’ve reviewed
city has scores of hotels, whereas twenty of the best places below;
Ghent has a more limited – if in addition, the city’s tourist
just as select – range. office issues a free accommo-
dation booklet providing
comprehensive listings.
Bruges The centre is liberally sprink-
Bruges has over one hundred led with hotels, many of which
hotels, dozens of bed-and- occupy quaint and/or elegant
breakfasts and several unofficial old buildings. There’s a cluster
youth hostels, but still can’t immediately to the south of one
accommodate all its visitors of the two main squares, the
at the height of the season. If Burg – though places here tend
you’re arriving in July or August, to be expensive – and another,
be sure to book ahead or, at a more affordable group in the
pinch, make sure you get here vicinity of the Spiegelrei canal,
in the morning before all the one of the prettiest and quieter
rooms have gone. Given the parts of the centre. Most of the
crush, many visitors use the city’s hotels are small – twenty
efficient hotel and B&B book- rooms, often less – and few are
ing service provided by the owned by a chain. Almost all
the main tourist office in the hotels offer breakfast at no
Concertgebouw (see p.155) extra (or minimal) charge, rang-
– bookings can be made both ing from a roll and coffee at the
on the spot and in advance via less expensive places through
their website (W www.brugge to full-scale banquets at the top
.be). At other times of the year, end of the range. Finally, note
things are usually much less that the hotel room prices given
pressing, though it’s still a good below do not take into account
idea to reserve ahead especially if special or weekend discounts.
you’re picky – it’s easy enough, B&Bs are generously distrib-
as almost everyone in the uted across the city centre too,
accommodation business speaks and many offer excellent
Hotel stars and prices

All licensed Belgian hotels carry a blue permit shield indicating the number of
stars allocated (up to a maximum of five). This classification system is, by
necessity, measured against easily identifiable criteria – toilets, room service,
lifts, and so on – rather than aesthetics or specific location, and consequently
can only provide a general guide to quality and prices.

A C C O M M O DAT ION 142

143
AC C O M M O DAT IO N

144
en-suite accommodation for located in a narrow side-street a couple of
around €60–70 per double, minutes’ walk north of the Burg. Mosquitoes
although some of the more can be a problem, but the small rooms are
luxurious establishments charge clean and pleasant. Doubles €70–95.
in the region of €90–100. In Egmond Minnewater 15 T 050 34 14
Bruges A C C O M M O DAT ION
addition, Bruges has a handful of 45, W www.egmond.be. Set in an old

unofficial youth hostels, offer- manor house, this rambling three star stands
ing dormitory beds at around in a quiet location in its own gardens just
€16 per person per night. Most metres from the Minnewater. The interior
of these places, as well as the has wooden beamed ceilings and fine
official HI youth hostel, which is eighteenth-century chimneypieces, while the
tucked away in the suburbs, also eight guest rooms are comfortable and
have a limited supply of smaller surprisingly affordable. Doubles €90–140.
rooms, with doubles for about Europ Augustijnenrei 18 T 050 33 79 75,
€35–45 per night. W www.hoteleurop.com. Two-star hotel in a
dignified late nineteenth-century town house
Hotels overlooking a canal about five minutes’ walk
north of the Burg. It’s a pleasant place to
Adornes St Annarei 26 T 050 34 13 36,
stay, even if the public areas are somewhat
W www.adornes.be. Three-star hotel in a
frumpy and some of the modern bedrooms a
tastefully converted old Flemish town house,
tad spartan. Doubles €60–130.
with a plain, high-gabled facade. Both the
public areas and the comfortable bedrooms De Goezeput Goezeputstraat 29 T 050
are decorated in bright whites and creams, 34 26 94, W www.hotelgoezeput.be. Set
which emphasizes the antique charm of the in a charming location on a quiet street
place. It enjoys an excellent location, too, near the cathedral, this outstanding two-star
at the junction of two canals near the east hotel occupies an immaculately refurbished
end of Spiegelrei, and delicious breakfasts. eighteenth-century convent complete with
Also very child-friendly – high chairs for the wooden beams and oodles of antiques. A
dining room are, for example, no problem. snip, with en-suite doubles for €75–95.
Doubles €100–130. Jacobs Baliestraat 1 T 050 33 98 31,
Alegria Sint Jakobsstraat 34 T 050 33 W www.hoteljacobs.be. Pleasant three-
09 37, W www.alegria-hotel.com. This star set in a creatively modernized old
appealing, family-run three-star has just brick building complete with a precipitous
six well-appointed rooms, each decorated crow-step gable. The twenty-odd rooms
in pastel greens, creams and whites. The are decorated in brisk modern style, though
rooms at the back, overlooking the garden some are a little small. It’s in a quiet loca-
are quieter than those at the front. Great tion in an attractive part of the centre, a
location too – a brief stroll from the Markt. ten-minute walk northeast of the Markt.
Doubles €80–120. Doubles €60–80.
Bauhaus Budget Hotel Langestraat 133 Montanus Nieuwe Gentweg 78 T 050
T 050 34 10 93, W www.bauhaus.be. Next 33 11 76, W www.montanus.be. Smart
to the Bauhaus Hostel (see p.146), this one- four-star hotel occupying a substantial
star hotel offers 21 very spartan rooms with seventeenth-century mansion kitted out
shower and basin. Very popular with back- in crisp modern style – although most of
packers thanks to its cheap singles, doubles, the rooms are at the back, in chalet-like
triples and quads, but don’t expect too much accommodation at the far end of a large
in the way of creature comforts, and the and attractive garden. There’s also an
rooms are a little dingy. Laidback, occasion- especially appealing room in what amounts
ally boisterous atmosphere plus a (usually) to a (cosy and luxurious) garden shed.
friendly clientele. Doubles €50. €40–50 Doubles €110–200.
Cordoeanier Cordoeaniersstraat 18 De Orangerie Kartuizerinnenstraat 10
T 050 33 90 51, W www.cordoeanier.be. T 050 34 16 49, W www.hotelorangerie
Medium-sized, family-run two-star handily .com. Excellent four-star hotel in a

145
surprisingly quiet location a couple of Die Swaene Steenhouwersdijk 1 T 050
minutes south of the Burg. The original 34 27 98, W www.dieswaene.com. The
eighteenth-century mansion has been unassuming brick exterior of this long-
remodelled and extended in opulent style to established four-star is deceptive, as each
house twenty elegant bedrooms – though of the large rooms beyond is luxuriously
AC C O M M O DAT IO N Bruges
some are quite small – and there’s a furnished in an individual antique style,
charming terrace bar at the back overlook- while the new annexe across the canal has
ing the canal. Doubles €150–275. ten sumptuously decorated suites complete
Passage Hotel Dweersstraat 28 T 050 with marble bathooms and lavish furnish-
34 02 32, W www.passagebruges.com. ings. The location is perfect too, beside a
A ten-minute stroll west of the Markt, this particularly pretty and peaceful section of
hotel is a real steal, with simple but well- canal a short walk from the Burg – which
maintained en-suite doubles for just €60, partly accounts for its reputation as one of
plus doubles with shared facilities from the city’s most “romantic” hotels. There’s
€45. It’s a very popular spot and there are also a heated pool and sauna, and the
only ten rooms (four en suite) so advance breakfast will set you up for the best part of
reservations are pretty much essential. The a day. Doubles €195–235.
busy bar serves inexpensive meals and is a Walburg Boomgaardstraat 13 T 050 34
favourite with backpackers. The inexpensive 94 14, W www.hotelwalburg.be. Engaging
four-star in an elegant nineteenth-century
Passage Hostel (see p.146) is next door.
mansion – with splendidly large doors – a
Doubles €45–60.
short walk east of the Burg along Hoogstraat.
Relais Oud Huis Amsterdam
The rooms are smart and comfortable, and
Spiegelrei 3 T 050 34 18 10, W www
there are also capacious suites. Doubles
.oha.be. Smooth, tastefully turned-out four-
€125–175.
star hotel in a grand eighteenth-century
mansion overlooking the Spiegelrei canal.
Bed & breakfasts
Many of the furnishings and fittings are
period, but more so in the public areas than Mr & Mrs Gheeraert Riddersstraat 9
in the thirty-odd rooms. Doubles €150–250. T 050 33 56 27, W www.bb-bruges.be.
Holiday apartments
There are plenty of holiday apartments in Bruges, available for both long- and
short-term rental, and the best offer good value in attractive surroundings. The
comprehensive accommodation brochure issued by the city’s tourist office details
over fifty of them, with prices ranging from as little as €350 per week for two
people (€425 for four) up to around €500 (€650). The tourist office does not,
however, arrange holiday apartment lettings – these must be arranged direct
with the lessor. As ever, advance booking is strongly advised. The following are
two particularly good options.
Peerdenstraat 16 (Mr and Mrs Dieltiens T 050 33 42 94, W www
.bedandbreakfastbruges.be). Centrally located apartment in the Huyze de
Blockfluyt, at Peerdenstraat 16, comprising a two-storey flat that sleeps up to
four people, with wooden floors, exposed beams and a kitchen; it also has an
additional attic bed above the main double complete with its own dinky little
ladder. From €385–455 per week for two.
Ridderspoor (Riddersstraat 18, T 050 34 90 11, W www.ridderspoor.be). An
immaculate apartment and two studios in the Ridderspoor, a beautiful
nineteenth-century house. The ground-floor studio has a private terrace, while
the top-floor open-plan apartment offers a (limited) view of the Burg. Both have
their own kitchen. Studio prices are from €420–490 per week for two. There’s
often a minimum three-night stay.

146
The three en-suite guest rooms here are as pristine as they were when it opened a
bright and smart, and occupy the top floor few years ago, but it steals a march on its
of a creatively modernized old house a short rivals by being so much closer to the Markt.
walk east from the Burg. No credit cards. Accommodation is either in dorms (sleeping
Closed Jan. Doubles €60–65. four or six) or double rooms. It’s above an
Ghent A C C O M M O DAT ION
Mrs Degraeve Kazernevest 32 T 050 34 American-style bar, so light sleepers may

57 11, W www.bedandbreakfast prefer to go elsewhere. Dormitory beds from
marjandegraeve.be. Relaxed, friendly €16, doubles €45.
B&B with two eclectically decorated (read International Youth Hostel Europa
wacky) guest rooms with shared facilities. Baron Ruzettelaan 143 T 050 35 26 79,
The place prides itself on its individuality W www.vjh.be. Big, modern HI-affiliated
– there’s a musical toilet and the landlady hostel in its own grounds, a (dreary) 2km
brews her own bottled beer. Situated on south of the centre in the suburb of
the eastern edge of town, not far from the Assebroek. There are over two hundred
Kruispoort – which means that you miss beds in a mixture of rooms from singles
the tourist droves, but that it’s also a fair through to six-bed dorms. Breakfast is
old hike to the Markt (although you can hire included in the price, and there are also
bikes here). No credit cards. Doubles €50. security lockers and internet access, and no
Number 11 Peerdenstraat 11 T 050 33 curfew. City bus #2 from the train station
06 75, W www.number11.be. In the heart goes within 150m – ask the driver to let
of Bruges, on a traffic-free street, this first- you off. Dorm beds €15, doubles €34.
rate B&B, with just two guest rooms and a Passage Dweersstraat 26 T 050 34 02
suite, is a lavish affair, adorned with art and 32, W www.passagebruges.com. The
antiques in equal proportions – every com- most agreeable hostel in Bruges, accom-
fort, and smashing breakfasts too. Doubles modating fifty people in ten comparatively
€125–145, suite €215. comfortable dormitories (all with shared
Het Wit Beertje Witte Beerstraat 4 bathrooms). It’s located in an old and
T 050 45 08 88, W www.hetwitbeertje interesting part of town, about ten minutes’
.be. This modest little guesthouse-cum- walk west of the Markt. Closed Jan. Dorm
B&B, with just three en-suite rooms, is a beds from €14 including sheets; €5 extra
particularly good deal. It’s located just west for breakfast.
of the city centre, off Canadaplein, beyond
the Smedenpoort. Doubles €45–55.
Ghent
Hostels
Ghent has around thirty hotels,
Bauhaus International Youth Hotel ranging from the delightful to
Langestraat 135 T 050 34 10 93, the mundanely modern, with
W www.bauhaus.be. Laid-back hostel several of the most stylish and
with few discernible rules, several large enjoyable – but not necessarily
dormitories (sleeping up to eight people) the most expensive – located in
and a mish-mash of double (€36) and triple the centre, which is where you
rooms (€51). Not for the fastidious – the want to be. The city also has a
place is far from neat and trim, but there’s good supply of budget accom-
bike rental, currency exchange and lock- modation, principally a bright,
ers, and the popular downstairs bar serves cheerful and centrally located
filling meals. The hostel is situated about youth hostel and a modest range
fifteen minutes’ walk east of the Burg, next of B&Bs, a list of which can be
to the bargain-basement Bauhaus Hotel obtained from the tourist office
(see p.144). From €14 per person for a – reckon on €50–70 per double.
dorm bed. Staff at the tourist office (see
Charlie Rockets Hoogstraat 19 T 050 p.155) in the Lakenhalle will
33 06 60, W www.charlierockets.com. make hotel and B&B reserva-
The rooms in this busy hostel may not be tions on your behalf at no

147
charge, though they do require a a great location close to Het Gravensteen,
small deposit which is deducted this medium-sized three-star is centred on
from the final bill. They also an attractively restored nineteenth-century
publish a free brochure detailing mansion adorned with Second Empire trim-
local accommodation, includ- mings. The rooms in the annexe and in one
AC C O M M O DAT IO N Ghent
ing hotels and hostels (but not wing of the original building are smart and
B&Bs) along with prices, as well relatively spacious, with pleasing modern
as a separate bed and breakfast furnishings. Several of the older rooms,
leaflet – or check out W www however, are very poky. Doubles €90–190.
.bedandbreakfast-gent.be. Ibis Centrum Kathedraal Limburgstraat
2 T 09 233 00 00, W www.ibishotel.com.
Hotels Handily situated opposite the cathedral,
this large two-star – part of the Ibis chain
Best Western Hotel Chamade Koningin
– offers comfortable modern rooms, though
Elisabethlaan 3 T 09 220 15 15, W www
the noise from the square in front of the
.chamade.be. Standard three-star accom-
hotel can be irritating late at night – ask for
modation in bright, modern bedrooms at
a room at the back. Doubles €75–85.
this chain hotel, though the building itself
Ibis Centrum Opera Nederkouter 24–26
– a six-storey block – is a bit of an eyesore.
T 09 225 07 07, W www.ibishotel.com.
A five-minute walk north of the train station.
Spick-and-span modern two-star in a
Doubles €110–130.
five-storey block a short walk south of the
Boatel Voorhuitkaai 44 T 09 267 10 30,
W www.theboatel.com. Arguably the most
Korenmarkt. The rooms lack character, but
distinctive of the city’s hotels, the two-star they’re perfectly adequate and comfortable.
Boatel is, as its name implies, a converted Doubles €70–80.
boat – an imaginatively and immaculately Monasterium Poortackere Oude
refurbished canal barge to be precise. It’s Houtlei 56 T 09 269 22 10, W www
moored in one of the city’s outer canals, .monasterium.be. This unusual two-star
a ten-to-fifteen-minute walk east from the hotel-cum-guesthouse occupies a rambling
centre. The seven bedrooms are decked out and somewhat spartan former monastery,
in crisp modern style, and breakfasts, taken whose ageing brickwork dates from the
on the poop deck, are first rate. Doubles nineteenth century. Guests have a choice
€110–130. between the unassuming, en-suite rooms
Erasmus Poel 25 T 09 224 21 95, in the hotel section, or opting for a more
W www.erasmushotel.be. Another authentic monastic-cell experience in the
contender for Ghent’s most distinctive hotel, guesthouse (some of whose rooms have
this friendly family-run affair occupies a shared facilities). The complex also includes
commodious old town house a few metres a pint-sized neo-Gothic chapel, and break-
from the Korenlei. Each room is thoughtfully fast is taken in the old chapterhouse. It’s
decorated and furnished with antiques, and about five minutes’ walk west of Veldstraat.
the breakfast is excellent. Reservations Doubles €70–115.
strongly advised in summer. Two stars, but Novotel Centrum Goudenleeuwplein 5
this rating does it precious little justice. T 09 224 22 30, W www.novotel.com.
Doubles €100–150. First-class modern chain hotel bang in the
Flandre Poel 1 T 09 266 06 00, W www middle of the town centre. Rooms are neat,
.hoteldeflandre.be. The new kid on Ghent’s trim and fetchingly decorated, and there’s
hotel block, this smooth and polished four- also an outdoor swimming pool and good
star hotel occupies an imaginatively refash- breakfasts. Three star. Doubles €175.
ioned old coach house a short walk from the Sofitel Gent Belfort Hoogpoort 63 T 09
Korenmarkt. Spacious public areas kitted out 233 33 31, W www.sofitel.com. One of
in sharp modern style are followed by neat the plushest hotels in town, this four-star
and trim bedrooms. Doubles €160–240. is daintily shoehorned behind an ancient
Gravensteen Jan Breydelstraat 35 T 09 facade across from the Stadhuis. There are
225 11 50, W www.gravensteen.be. In spacious, pastel-shaded rooms and suites

A C C O M M O DAT ION 148

149
AC C O M M O DAT IO N

150
as well as all modcons, including good Charming B&B with three extremely cosy,
fitness facilities. Enquire direct for air-conditioned guest rooms – one deco-
discounts. Doubles €200–250. rated in the manner of a sultan’s room,
Trianon I Sint Denijslaan 203 T 09 221 another in the style of colonial Africa, while
39 44, W www.hoteltrianon.be. Two-star, the third occupies a self-contained mini-
Ghent A C C O M M O DAT ION
motel-style accommodation on a quiet house at the back of the garden. Breakfasts

residential street about 2km south of the are delicious – as are the home-made
centre, just beyond Ghent St Pieters train chocolates. Smashing central location, too.
station. The nineteen rooms are comfortable Doubles €80–95, garden mini-house €155.
and spotless, and all are en suite. Doubles Jeugdherberg De Draecke
€60–70. St Widostraat 11 T 09 233 70 50,
W www.vjh.be. Excellent, well-equipped
B&Bs and hostel HI-affiliated youth hostel in the city centre,
a five-minute walk north of the Korenmarkt
Brooderie Jan Breydelstraat 8 T 09 225
with over a hundred beds in two- to six-bed
06 23, W www.brooderie.be. Three neat
rooms and dorms. Advance reservations
and trim little rooms immediately above the
are advised, especially in the height of the
appealing little Brooderie café (see p.125).
season. Breakfast is included, and the
Handily located near the Korenmarkt, and
restaurant offers lunch and dinner too.
breakfast is excellent. Doubles €60–65.
There are also lockers, a bar, and facilities
Chambreplus Hoogpoort 31 T 09 225
for bike rental and currency exchange.
37 75, W www.chambreplus.be.
Dorm beds €17, doubles €44.

Essentials
04 Bruges Essentials 151-162.ind151 151 12/20/07 10:48:12 AM

153
7hh_lWb
Bruges and Ghent are easy to reach the airport, there are three or four trains
by road and rail. The E40 motorway, every hour to Brussels’ three main
linking Brussels with Ostend, runs just stations: Bruxelles-Nord, Bruxelles-
ES S ENT IA L S Arrival
to the south of both cities, and there Centrale and Bruxelles-Midi. The journey
are fast and frequent trains to Ghent time to Bruxelles-Nord is about twenty
and Bruges from Brussels and a batch minutes; a few minutes more to the
of other Belgian cities. Long-distance others. You can change at any of these
international buses also run direct stations for the twice-hourly train from
to Bruges and Ghent from a number Brussels to Bruges and Ghent, though
of capital cities, including London, and changing at Bruxelles-Nord is a tad more
there are car ferries from Rosyth and convenient since it isn’t as crowded as
Hull to Zeebrugge, a few kilometres the other two. The journey from Brussels
from Bruges. The nearest airport to both takes an hour to Bruges, forty minutes to
cities is Brussels. There are three trains Ghent. There are also direct trains from
an hour between Bruges and Ghent; the the airport to Ghent (1–2 hourly), from
journey time is twenty minutes. where there are onward connections to
In Bruges, the train and bus station are Bruges (3 hourly; 20min), but this isn’t
next to one another about 2km south- much quicker. The one-way fare from
west of the city centre. If the flat and Brussels’ airport to Bruges is currently
easy twenty-minute walk into the centre €13.20, exactly twice that for a return;
doesn’t appeal, most of the local buses the fare to Ghent is slightly less.
leaving from outside the train station head Note that some flights to Brussels
off to the main square, the Markt, with (including Ryanair services) land at
some services stopping on the square Brussels (Charleroi) airport, well to the
itself and others stopping on adjacent south of the capital and an hour or so
Wollestraat, both bang in the centre. All away from Brussels by bus.
local buses have destination signs at the
front, but if in doubt check with the driver.
A taxi from the train station to the centre
By train
should cost about €8. Bruges and Ghent are very well served
Ghent has three train stations, but by train (W www.b-rail.be), with fast
the biggest by far – and the one you’re and frequent services from a number
almost bound to arrive at – is Ghent of Belgian towns and cities including
St Pieters, which adjoins the bus station Brussels and Ostend. Trains from
some 2km south of the city centre. From Brussels to Bruges and Ghent depart from
the west side of St Pieters train station, all three of the capital’s mainline stations
tram #1 runs up to the Korenmarkt, right including Bruxelles-Midi, the terminus of
in the city centre, every few minutes, Eurostar trains from London. Eurostar
passing along Kortrijksepoortstraat and trains (W www.eurostar.com) take two
Nederkouter. All trams have destination hours to get from London St Pancras to
signs and numbers at the front, but if in Bruxelles-Midi station, from where it’s
doubt check with the driver. The taxi fare another hour or so by domestic train to
from the train station to the Korenmarkt get to Bruges, forty minutes to Ghent.
is about €8. Bruxelles-Midi station is also served by
Thalys (W www.thalys.com) international
express trains from Amsterdam, Cologne,
By air Aachen and Paris. Some of the Thalys
The nearest airport to Bruges and Ghent trains from Paris continue on to Ostend
is Brussels international airport. From via Ghent and Bruges.

154
By car parking routes (parkeerroute), one signed
with yellow arrows (anti-clockwise), the
To reach Belgium by car or motorbike, other with green (clockwise). Both lead
you can either take one of the car ferries to – or past – the nine car parks that lie
mentioned above or use Eurotunnel’s in or close to the centre. The green route
shuttle train through the Channel Tunnel is better for the central car parks and is
from near Folkestone (exit the M20 at a little less convoluted than the other; the
junction 11a). Note that Eurotunnel 24-hour car park beneath the Vrijdag-
Entry requirements ES S ENT IA L S
only carries cars (including occupants) markt is one of the best placed.
and motorbikes, not cyclists and foot
passengers. From the Eurotunnel exit
in Calais, it’s just 120km to Bruges and By ferry
200km to Brussels. Three operators currently run car ferries
Bruges is clearly signed from the E40 from the UK direct to Belgium. These
motorway, and its oval-shaped centre is are Transeuropa Ferries (Ramsgate to
encircled by the R30 ring road, which Ostend; 4hr; W www.transeuropaferries
follows the course of the old city walls. .com); P&O Ferries (Hull to Zeebrugge;
Parking in the centre can be a real 13hr; W www.poferries.com); and
tribulation, with on-street parking almost Superfast Ferries (Rosyth to Zeebrugge;
impossible to find and the city centre’s 18hr; W www.superfast.com). Both
handful of car parks often filled to the Zeebrugge and Ostend are within easy
gunnels. Easily the best option is to use striking distance of Bruges and Ghent.
the massive 24/7 car park by the train Tariffs vary enormously, depending
station, particularly as the price – €2.50 on when you leave, how long you stay,
per day – includes the cost of the bus what size your vehicle is and how many
ride to and from the centre. passengers are in it; on the two longer
Ghent is also well signed from the E40 routes, there’s also the cost of a cabin to
motorway and encircled by a ring road. consider and booking ahead is strongly
Car parks within the city centre are often recommended – indeed essential
jam-packed; the city has signed two in summer.
;djhoh[gk_h[c[dji
Citizens of all EU and EEA countries must be valid for at least three months
only need a valid passport or national beyond the period of intended stay. Non-
identity card to enter Belgium, where EU citizens who wish to visit Belgium
– with some limitations – they also have for longer than ninety days must get a
the right to work, live and study. US, special visa from a Belgian consulate
Australian, Canadian, South African and or embassy before departure. Visa
New Zealand citizens need only a valid requirements do change and it is always
passport for visits of up to ninety days, advisable to check the current situation
but are not allowed to work. Passports before leaving home.

155
?d\ehcWj_ed
Bruges has two tourist offices. There’s nearly as detailed as Exit (W www.exit
a tourist information desk (Tues–Sat .be), a free monthly, Dutch-language
9.30am–12.30pm & 1–5pm) inside the newssheet available here and at many
train station, next to the ticket office, town-centre bars, cafés and bookshops.
while the main tourist office (daily In Ghent, the tourist office is bang in
ES S ENT IA L S Information • City transport

10am–6pm, Thurs till 8pm; T 050 the centre of the city in the crypt of the
44 46 46, W www.brugge.be) is in Lakenhalle (daily: April–Oct 9.30am–
the Concertgebouw complex on the 6.30pm; Nov–March 9.30am–4.30pm;
west side of the city centre on ‘t Zand. T 09 266 56 60, W www.visitgent
Among a variety of free leaflets, there’s .be). They supply a wide range of free
a comprehensive accommodation listings city information as does Ghent’s youth
brochure and a bi-monthly, multilingual tourist information office, Use-it, at
events booklet, though the latter isn’t St Pietersnieuwstraat 21 (Mon–Fri
1–6pm; W www.use-it.be).
9_jojhWdifehj
The most enjoyable way to explore above. Note that at peak times some tram
Bruges is on foot, and the centre is and bus drivers won’t issue tickets. The
certainly compact and flat enough to standard single fare is €1.20 in advance,
make this an easy proposition. The same or €1.50 from the driver; a ten-journey
applies in Ghent, except that here some Lijnkaart costs €8 in advance, or €10 from
of the more outlying attractions are the driver; and a 24-hour city bus pass,
best reached by tram. Both cities have called a dagpas, costs €5, or €6 from the
excellent public transport systems, with driver. Free maps of the local network are
buses and trams in Ghent and buses in available at the information kiosks.
Bruges running to every suburban nook
and cranny. All services are operated
by De Lijn (T 070 22 02 00, W www
Cycling
.delijn.be), who have information kiosks Bruges is ideal for cycling, with cycle
outside Bruges and Ghent St Pieters lanes on many of the roads, and cycle
train stations. Tickets are widely available racks dotted across the centre. There are
at shops and newsagents and at the half a dozen bike rental places in Bruges,
automatic ticket machines at major stops, but Belgian Railways sets the benchmark,
including the two train stations mentioned hiring out bikes at the railway station
Boat trips
Half-hour boat trips around Bruges’s central canals leave from a number of
jetties south of the Burg (March–Nov daily 10am–6pm; €5.70). Boats depart every
few minutes, but long queues still build up during high season, with few visitors
seemingly concerned by the canned commentary. In wintertime (Dec–Feb), there’s
a spasmodic service at weekends only. There are also boat excursions out from
Bruges to the attractive town of Damme (see p.104), as well as boat trips around
Ghent’s central canals (see p.110).

156
Guided tours
Guided tours are big business in Bruges; the main tourist office (see p.155) has
comprehensive details. All sorts of tours are offered, from horse-and-carriage
rides to boat trips, as well as excursions out into the Flemish countryside, most
notably to the battlefields of World War I.
Among the many options, Sightseeing Line (T 050 35 50 24, W www.citytour
.be) operates fifty-minute mini-coach tours (€11.50 per adult; pay the driver) of
City transport ES S ENT IA L S
the city centre, departing from the Markt; passengers are issued with individual
headphones in the language of their choice. More expensive are the horse-drawn
carriages, which line up on the Markt offering a thirty-minute canter round
town for €30. These are extremely popular, so expect to queue at the weekend.
Bruges has a small army of tour operators, but one of the best is Quasimodo
Tours (T 050 37 04 70, W www.quasimodo.be), who run a first-rate programme
of excursions both in and around Bruges and out into Flanders. Their laid-back
Flanders Fields minibus tour (7hr 30min) of the World War I battlefields near Ieper
is highly recommended; tours cost €50 (under-26s €40) including picnic lunch.
Reservations are required and hotel or train station pick-up can be arranged. Their
sister organization, Quasimundo (T 050 33 07 75, W www.quasimundo.be) runs
several bike tours, starting from the Burg. Their “Bruges by Bike” excursion (daily
March–Oct; 2.5hr; €22) zips round the main sights and then explores less visited
parts of the city, while their “Border by Bike” tour (daily March–Oct; 4hr; €22)
comprises a 25-kilometre ride out along the poplar-lined canals to the north of
Bruges, visiting Damme and Oostkerke with stops and stories along the way. Both
are good fun and the price includes mountain bike and rain-jacket hire; reserva-
tions are required.
In Ghent, guided walking tours are particularly popular. The standard walking
tour, organized by the tourist office, consists of a two-hour jaunt round the city centre
(May–Oct daily at 2.30pm; Nov–April Sat at 2.30pm; €7); bookings – at least a few
hours in advance – are strongly recommended. Alternatively, horse-drawn carriages
leave from outside the Lakenhalle, on St Baafsplein, offering a thirty-minute gambol
round town for €25 (April–Oct daily 10am–6pm & most winter weekends).
(T 050 30 23 29; €9.50 per day). The Car rental

main tourist office (see p.155) issues
a useful free leaflet detailing five cycle Car rental companies are surprisingly
routes in the countryside around Bruges, thin on the ground in Bruges. Operators
while Quasimundo Tours offer guided include Europcar, at St Pieterskaai
cycling tours (see above). 48 (T 050 31 45 44), and Hertz, at
Ghent is good for cycling too: the Pathoekewg 25 (T 050 37 72 34).
terrain is flat and there are cycle lanes on In both cases, advance reservations
many of the roads and cycle racks dotted are advised, especially in summer.
across the centre. There are a couple Ghent is better equipped – try Avis,
of bike rental outlets in Ghent; again, Kortrijksesteenweg 676 (T 09 222 00
Belgian Railways should be your first port 53); Europcar, Einde Were 1 (T 09 226
of call, with bikes for hire at St Pieters 81 26); or Hertz, Nieuwewandeling 76
railway station (T 09 241 22 24; daily (T09 224 04 06).
7am–8pm; €9.50 per day).

157
F[h\ehc_d]Whji
WdZY_d[cW
Keen to entertain its many visitors, Bruges Cinema Lumière St-Jacobstraat 36 T 050
ES S ENT IA L S Performing arts and cinema

puts on a varied programme of performing 34 34 65, W www.lumiere.be. Bruges’s
arts, mostly as part of its annual schedule premier venue for alternative, cult, foreign
and art-house movies, with three screens.
of festivals and special events (see
p.158). The two principal venues are the
In Ghent
municipal theatre, the Stadsschouwburg, Sphinx St-Michielshelling 3 T 09 225
and the city’s prestigious concert hall, the 60 86, W www.sphinx-cinema.be. Popular
Concertgebouw. cinema which focuses on foreign-language
Listings of forthcoming events are and art-house films.
posted on the tourist office website at Studio Skoop St-Annaplein 63 T 09 225
Wwww.brugge.be. The main tourist office, 08 45, W www.studioskoop.be. The cosiest
of the city’s cinemas, with five screens.
on ’t Zand (see p.155), also publishes a
free – if somewhat skimpy – multilingual
events calendar called evenementen, sup- Classical music,
plemented by their rather more detailed
monthly events@brugge. The much opera, theatre and
more detailed local listings magazine Exit dance
(Wwww.exit.be) is also published monthly
and has in-depth reviews and a calendar.
In Bruges
It’s widely available in bookshops and Collegium Instrumentale Brugense
assorted outlets, including the tourist T 050 81 66 18, W www
office, but is (almost entirely) in Dutch. .collegiuminstrumentale.be. Based in
In Ghent, the performing arts are Bruges, this internationally acclaimed
geared up for the local citizenry rather chamber orchestra gives fairly frequent
than the city’s visitors. For the low-down performances in a variety of local
venues. Performances dip into many
on upcoming events in Ghent, either
historical periods, but focus principally
ask at the tourist office (see p.155) or on the Baroque.
check out their website W www.visitgent Concertgebouw ’t Zand T 070 22 33 02,
.be). The city’s best listings magazine is W www.concertgebouw.be. Built to celebrate
the fortnightly freebie Zone 09 (W www Bruges’s year as a cultural capital of Europe in
.zone09.be); it’s available at newspaper 2002, the Concertgebouw (Concert Hall) hosts
stands all over the city centre. The FNAC a range of performing arts, from opera and
classical music through to big-name bands.
bookshop (see p.137) sells tickets for Stadsschouwburg Vlamingstraat 29 T 050
most mainstream cultural events. 44 30 60, W www.cultuurcentrumbrugge
.be. Occupying a big and breezy, neo-
Renaissance building dating from 1869, the
Cinema Stadsschouwburg (Municipal Theatre) hosts a
Films are normally shown in the original wide-ranging programme of theatre, dance,
language, with Dutch subtitles as required. musicals, concerts and opera.
In Bruges In Ghent
Ciné Liberty Kuipersstraat 23 T 050 33 Concertzaal Handelsbeurs Kouter 29
20 11, W www.cinebel.be. Located right T 09 265 91 60, W www.handelsbeurs
in the centre of town in an attractive old .be. The city’s newest concert hall
building and screening a choice selection with two first-rate auditoria, hosting a
of arthouse and mainstream English and diverse programme spanning all the
American films. performing arts.

158
Publiekstheater Groot Huis St- occasional host to touring English-
Baafsplein 17 T 09 225 01 01, W www language theatre companies.
.publiekstheater.be. Handsomely restored De Vlaamse Opera Schouwburgstraat 3
nineteenth-century theatre hosting a T 09 268 10 11, W www.vlaamseopera.be.
wide range of performing arts events. The lavishly restored opera house is home
It’s home to Nederlands Toneel Gent to the city’s opera company.
(T 09 225 01 01, W www.ntgent.be), the Vooruit St-Pietersnieuwstraat 23 T 09 267
regional repertory company, whose 28 28, W www.vooruit.be. Ghent’s leading
performances are almost always in venue for rock, pop and jazz concerts; also
Festivals and events ES S ENT IA L S
Dutch, though the theatre also plays stages modern dance and theatre.
<[ij_lWbiWdZ[l[dji
Bruges and Ghent are big on festivals the big Dutch-speaking cities – including
and special events – everything from Ghent and Bruges – gets a fair crack of the
religious processions through to cultural whip, with the festival celebrated
cinema, fairs and contemporary musical for about two weeks in each city before it
moves on to the next.
binges. These are spread throughout Heilig Bloedprocessie (Procession of
the year, though (as you might expect) the Holy Blood) (Bruges) Ascension Day
most tourist-oriented events take (forty days after Easter); T 05 044 86 86,
place in the summer. Information on W www.holyblood.org. One of medieval
upcoming festivals and events is easy Christendom’s holiest relics, the phial of
to come by either from the main tourist the Holy Blood, said to contain a few drops
offices and their websites (see p.155) of the blood of Christ, is carried through
or from the various listings publications the centre of Bruges once every year.
Nowadays, the procession is as much a
covered on p.157. tourist attraction as a religious ceremony,
but it remains an important event for many
March citizens of Bruges.
Cinema Novo (Bruges) Held over eleven
days in March, the prestigious Cinema
Novo film festival (W www.cinemanovo.be)
July
Cactusfestival (Bruges) Three days over
aims to establish a European foothold for
the second weekend of July; W www
films from Africa, Asia and Latin America.
.cactusmusic.be. Going strong for over
Most are shown at the city’s art-house
twenty years, the Cactusfestival is some-
cinemas (see p.157).
thing of a classic. Known for its amiable
atmosphere, it proudly pushes against the
April musical mainstream with rock, reggae, rap,
Meifoor (Bruges) Late April to late May; roots and R&B all rolling along together.
T 050/44 80 41, W www.brugge.be. The festival features both domestic and
Bruges’s main annual funfair, held on ’t foreign artists – recent show-stoppers have
Zand and in the adjoining Koning Albertpark. included Elvis Costello, Patti Smith and
Richard Thompson. It’s held in Bruges’s city
May centre, in the park beside the Minnewater.
Festival van Vlaanderen (Flanders Gentse Feesten (Ghent Festival) Mid-
Festival) (Bruges and Ghent) May–Oct to late July, but always including July 21;
across Flanders; W www.festival-van- W www.gentsefeesten.be. For ten days
vlaanderen.be. For well over forty years, every July, Ghent gets stuck into partying
the Flanders Festival has provided clas- pretty much round the clock. Local bands
sical music in churches, castles and perform free open-air gigs throughout
other impressive venues in over sixty the city and street performers turn up
Flemish towns and cities. The festival now all over the place – fire-eaters, buskers,
comprises more than 120 concerts and comedians, actors, puppeteers and so
features international orchestras. Each of forth. There’s also an outdoor market

159
Public holidays August

Sand sculpture (near Bruges) Aug to late
New Year’s Day Sept Sand-sculpture competitions are popu-
lar along the Belgian coast throughout the
Easter Monday
summer – and Zeebrugge, a few minutes by
Labour Day (May 1) train from Bruges, features some of the most
Ascension Day (forty days after Easter) amazing creations.
Whit Monday Praalstoet van de Gouden Boom
Flemish Day (Dutch-speaking (Pageant of the Golden Tree) (Bruges)
ES S ENT IA L S Festivals and events

Belgium only; July 11) Held every five years over two days on
Belgium National Day (July 21) the last weekend of August, this pageant
Assumption (mid-August) features all sorts of mock-medieval hearti-
ness, and thousands congregate in central
All Saints’ Day (November 1)
Bruges to join in the fun. First staged in
Armistice Day (November 11) 1958, the next one is due in 2012.
Christmas Day
(Note that if any one of the above October
falls on a Sunday, the next day Ghent Film Festival Held over twelve days
becomes a holiday.) in October, the Ghent Film Festival (W www
.filmfestival.be) is one of Europe’s foremost
cinematic events. Every year, the city’s
art-house cinemas (see p.157) combine
selling everything from jenever (gin) to to present a total of around two hundred
handmade crafts. feature films and a hundred shorts from all
Klinkers (Bruges) Two and a half weeks, over the world, screening Belgian films and
usually from the last weekend of July; the best of world cinema well before they
W www.cactusmusic.be. Bruges’s biggest hit the international circuit. There’s also a
annual knees-up, and the chance for city special focus on music in film.
folk to really let their hair down. There are
big-time concerts on the Markt and the
Burg, the city’s two main squares, more November
intimate performances in various bars and Zesdaagse an Vlaanderen (The Six
cafés, and film screenings in Astrid Park, Days of Flanders Cycling Event) (Ghent)
W www.kuipke.be. Held over six days in
plus all sorts of other entertainments. It’s
Bruges at its best – and most of the mid-Nov, this annual cycling extravaganza
events are free. takes place in the vélodrome at the Citadel-
Knokke-Heist: Internationaal Cartoon- park in Ghent and attracts cyclists from all
festival (near Bruges) Late July to early over Europe, who thrash around for dear life
Sept; W cartoonfestival.otr.be. Established in in six days of high-speed racing.
the 1960s, this summer-season festival in
the seaside resort of Knokke-Heist, a short December
train ride from Bruges, showcases several The Arrival of St Nicholas (aka Santa
hundred world-class cartoons drawn in and Klaus) (Bruges and Ghent) Dec 6. The
from every corner of the globe. arrival of St Nicholas from his long sojourn
Musica Antiqua (Bruges) Last week of abroad is celebrated by processions and
July and first week of Aug; W www.musica the giving of sweets to children right
-antiqua.com. Part of the Festival van across Belgium.
Vlaanderen (see opposite), this well- Kerstmarkt (Christmas Market)
established and well-regarded festival of (Bruges). Dec daily 11am–10pm. All Dec
medieval music offers an extensive Bruges’s Christmas Market occupies the
programme of live performances at a Markt with scores of brightly lit stalls sell-
variety of historic venues in Bruges. The ing food, drink, souvenirs and everything
evening concerts are built around themes, Christmassy. The centre of the Markt is
whilst the lunchtime concerts are more turned into an ice rink and you can rent
episodic. Tickets go on sale in Feb and are skates. There’s more Christmas jollity at the
snapped up fast. comparable Christmas Market on the Simon
Stevinplein (daily 11am–7pm).

160
:_h[Yjeho
ATMs ATMs are liberally distributed across Football Founded in 1891, Club Brugge
the centre of both Bruges and Ghent. In (W www.clubbrugge.be) is the premier
Bruges there are handy ATMs at the post soccer club in the province of Flanders and
office, Markt 5; KBC, Steenstraat 38; Fortis a recent winner of the Belgian league and
Bank, Simon Stevinplein 3; AXA, ’t Zand cup. They play in the Jan Breydelstadion, a
Directory ES S ENT IA L S
1; and the Europabank, Vlamingstraat 13. 10min drive southwest from the centre of
In Ghent, there are useful ATMs on the Bruges along Gistelse Steenweg; on match
Groentenmarkt; the Vrijdagmarkt; and days there are special buses to the ground
the Kouter. from the train station. Match tickets cost
Currency and exchange The Belgian between €15 and €50.
currency is the euro (€). Each euro is made Internet and email access In both
up of 100 cents. At time of writing the rate Bruges and Ghent, most hotels and hostels
of exchange for €1 was £0.67, US$1.35, provide internet access for their guests
CDN$1.45, AUS$1.60, NZ$1.75, SAR9.56. either free or at minimal charge. There are
For the most up-to-date rates, W www also several internet cafés in both cities.
.oanda.com In Bruges, the most central is The Coffee
Beaches About 70km from tip to toe, Link, in the Oud St-Jan shopping centre
the Belgian coast boasts mile upon mile off Mariastraat (daily except Thurs & Fri
of sandy beach. The seaside resorts of 11am–6pm; T 050 34 99 73, W www
Ostend, Blankenberge and Knokke-Heist .thecoffeelink.com). Rates are currently
are all a short train ride from Bruges – and €0.20 per minute, after an initial charge of
not much further by train from Ghent. €2 for the first ten minutes. In Ghent, the
Disabilities, Travellers with Bruges and handiest internet café is the Coffee Lounge,
Ghent are not particularly well equipped to across from the tourist office at Botermarkt
accommodate travellers with disabilities. Lifts 6 (daily 10am–7pm).
and ramps are comparatively rare, buses, Left luggage There are luggage lockers
trams and trains are not routinely accessible and a luggage office at Bruges train station
for wheelchair users, and rough pavements and at Ghent St Pieters train station.
are commonplace and obstacles frequent. Pharmacies There are plenty of
That said, attitudes have changed: most new pharmacies in both Bruges and Ghent and
buildings are required to be fully accessible late-night duty rotas are usually displayed
and the number of premises geared up for in pharmacists’ windows. In Bruges, you
the disabled traveller has increased dra- can also check which pharmacies are
matically in the last few years. Consequently, open late-night and at weekends by calling
finding a hotel with wheelchair access and T 050 40 61 62.
other appropriate facilities is not too difficult. Phones There are no area codes in
For specific advice, contact the local tourist Belgium and there’s no distinction between
offices (see p.155). local and long-distance calls – in other
Electricity In Belgium, the current is 220V words calling Brussels from Bruges costs
AC, with standard European-style two-pin the same as calling a number within
plugs. British equipment needs only a plug Bruges. To call Belgium from abroad, dial
adaptor; American apparatus requires a your international access code, then T 32
transformer and an adaptor. (the country code for Belgium), followed
Emergencies Fire and ambulance T 100, by the subscriber number minus its initial
police T 101. zero. To make an international phone call
Fly Less – Stay Longer!

Rough Guides believes in the good that travel does, but we are deeply aware of
the impact of fuel emissions on climate change. We recommend taking fewer trips
and staying for longer. If you can avoid travelling by air, please use an alternative,
especially for journeys of under 1000km/600miles. And always offset your travel
at W www.roughguides.com/climatechange.

161
from within Belgium, dial T 00 followed by Time Belgium is on Central European Time
the appropriate international access code (CET), one hour ahead of Greenwich Mean
(see below), then the number you require, Time, six hours ahead of US Eastern
omitting the initial zero where there is one. Standard Time, nine hours ahead of US
International codes include Australia T 61; Pacific Standard Time, nine hours behind
Canada T 1; Republic of Ireland T 353; Australian Eastern Standard Time, and
New Zealand T 64; South Africa T 27; UK eleven hours behind New Zealand –
T 44; and USA T 1. For domestic directory except for periods during the changeovers
enquiries within Flanders, call T 1207; made in the respective countries to and
ES S ENT IA L S Directory
international directory enquiries and opera- from daylight saving. Belgium operates
tor assistance are on T 1204. Telephone daylight saving, moving clocks forward one
numbers beginning T 0900 or T 070 are hour in the spring and one hour back in
premium-rated, T 0800 are toll-free. the autumn.
All but the remotest parts of Belgium Tipping Tipping is, of course, never
have mobile (cellphone) coverage; GSM obligatory, but a ten- to fifteen-percent tip
phones from the rest of Europe, Australia is expected by taxi drivers and anticipated
and New Zealand should work fine; those by most restaurant waiters.
bought in North America (apart from Toilets Public toilets remain comparatively
triband cellphones) won’t. rare, but some cafés and bars run what
Post office Bruges: Markt 5 (Mon–Fri amounts to an ablutionary sideline with
9am–5.30pm); Ghent: Lange Kruisstraat 55 (mostly middle-aged) women keeping the
(Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–12.30pm). toilets scrupulously clean and making a
Stilettos Very few local women wear high minimal charge, though this custom is
heels in either Ghent or Bruges because fizzling out. Where it still applies, you’ll spot
they get stuck in between the cobble stones. the plate for the money as you enter.
Taxis In Bruges, there’s a taxi rank on Train enquiries For domestic and interna-
the Markt (T 050 33 44 44) and another tional services, either drop by the nearest
outside the train station on Stationsplein train station or call T 050 30 24 24 (daily
(T 050 38 46 60). In Ghent, taxis queue 7am–9pm; W www.b-rail.be).
up outside Ghent St Pieters train station, or
call V-Tax (T 09 222 22 22).

ES S ENT IA L S 162

Places
Chronology
05 Bruges Chronology 163-166.ind163 163 12/20/07 10:49:29 AM

165
9^hedebe]o
630 The French missionary St Amand establishes an abbey on the
site of present-day Ghent, at the confluence of the rivers Leie and
Scheldt.
865 Bruges founded as a coastal stronghold against the Vikings by
C H R O NO L O G Y
Baldwin Iron Arm, first count of Flanders.
Tenth century The beginnings of the wool industry in Flanders.
The leading Flemish cloth towns are Bruges and Ghent.
Twelfth to late fourteenth century The Flemish cloth industry
becomes dependent on English wool. Flanders enjoys an
unprecedented economic boom and its merchants become
immensely rich. Increasing tension – and bouts of warfare
– between the merchants and weavers of Flanders and their feudal
overlords, the counts of Flanders and the kings of France. Ghent
becomes the seat of the counts of Flanders and the largest town
in western Europe.
1302 Bruges Matins, when the citizens of Bruges massacre a
French garrison: anyone who couldn’t correctly pronounce the
Flemish shibboleth schild en vriend (“shield and friend”) was put
to the sword.
1384 The dukes of Burgundy inherit Flanders.
1419 Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, makes Bruges his
capital. The Burgundian court becomes known across Europe for
its cultured opulence. Philip dies in 1467.
1482 Mary, the last of the Burgundians, dies and her territories
– including Flanders – revert to her husband, Maximilian, a
Habsburg prince. Thus, Flanders is absorbed into the Habsburg
empire.
1480s onwards Decline of the Flemish cloth industry.
1530s Bruges’s international trade collapses and the town slips
into a long decline. Ghent also experiences a decline, though its
merchants switch from industry to trade, keeping the city going
– if not exactly flourishing.
Mid-sixteenth to seventeenth century The Protestants of the
Low Countries (modern-day Belgium and the Netherlands) rebel
against their Catholic Habsburg kings. A long and cruel series of
wars ensues. Eventually, the Netherlands wins its independence
– as the United Provinces – and the south, including Flanders, is
reconstituted as the Spanish Netherlands.
1700 The last of the Spanish Habsburgs, Charles II, dies; the War
of the Spanish Succession follows.
1713 The Treaty of Utrecht passes what is now Belgium,
including Flanders, to the Austrians – as the Austrian
Netherlands.
1794 Napoleon occupies the Austrian Netherlands and annexes
it to France the following year.

166
1815 Napoleon is defeated at Waterloo, just south of Brussels, and
the Austrian Netherlands becomes half of the newly constituted
Kingdom of The Netherlands.
1830 A rebellion leads to the collapse of the new kingdom and
the creation of an independent Belgium, including Flanders.
Mid- to late nineteenth century Much of Belgium industrializes,
including Ghent but not Bruges, whose antique charms attract a
C H R O NO L O G Y
first wave of tourists.

1913 The Great Exhibition, showing the best in contemporary
design and goods, is staged in Ghent.
1914–1945 Bruges and Ghent are occupied by the Germans in
both world wars, but survive largely unscathed.
1950s Increasing tension between the French- and Dutch-
speaking regions of Belgium.
1980 Belgium is divided into three federal regions: Wallonia for
French-speakers; Brussels, which is designated as bilingual; and
Dutch-speaking Flanders, including the two provinces of East and
West Flanders (Ghent is in East Flanders, Bruges in West).

Language
06 Bruges Language 167-174.indd 167 12/20/07 10:51:38 AM

169
BWd]kW][
Throughout the northern part of Belgium, including West
Flanders – which covers Bruges and Ghent – the prin-
cipal language is Dutch, which is spoken in a variety of
L A N G U A G E Pronunciation
distinctive dialects commonly described as “Flemish”.
Dutch-speaking Belgians commonly refer to themselves
as Flemish-speakers and most of them, particularly
in the tourist industry, also speak English to varying
degrees of excellence. Indeed, Flemish-speakers have
a seemingly natural talent for languages, and your
attempts at speaking theirs may be met with bewilder-
ment – though this can have as much to do with your
pronunciation (Dutch is very difficult to get right) as
surprise you’re making the effort.
Consequently, the following words and phrases should be the most
you’ll need to get by. We’ve also included a basic food and drink
glossary, though menus are nearly always multilingual; where they
aren’t, ask and one will almost invariably appear.
As for phrasebooks, the pocket-sized Rough Guide to Dutch has a
good dictionary section (English–Dutch and Dutch–English) as well
as a menu reader; it also provides a useful introduction to grammar
and pronunciation.
Pronunciation
Dutch is pronounced much the same as English, though there are
a few Dutch sounds that don’t exist in English and which can be
difficult to get right without practice.
Consonants Vowels and diphthongs
j is an English y, as in yellow A good rule of thumb is that doubling the

ch and g indicate a throaty sound, as letter lengthens the vowel sound.
at the end of the Scottish word loch. a is like the English apple
The Dutch word for canal – gracht – is aa like cart
especially tricky, since it has two of e like let
these sounds – it comes out sounding ee like late
something like khrakht. A common o as in pop
word for hello is Dag! – pronounced oo in pope
like daakh u is like the French tu if preceded by a
ng as in bring consonant; it’s like wood if followed by
nj as in onion a consonant
y is not a consonant, but another way of uu is like the French tu
writing ij au and ou like how
Double-consonant combinations generally ei and ij as in fine, though this varies
keep their separate sounds in Flemish: strongly from region to region;
kn, for example, is never like the sometimes it can sound more like lane
English “knight”. oe as in soon

170
eu is like the diphthong in the French leur forward in the mouth, with lips pursed
ui is the hardest Dutch diphthong of all, (as if to say “oo”).
pronounced like how but much further
Words and phrases

Words and phrases L A N G U A G E
Basic expressions spoor or perron railway platform

loket ticket office
ja yes
nee no Useful cycling terms
alstublieft please
dank u or bedankt thank you fiets Bicycle
hallo or dag hello fietspad bicycle path
goedemorgen good morning band tyre
goedemiddag good afternoon lek puncture
goedenavond good evening rem brake
tot ziens goodbye ketting chain
tot straks see you later wiel wheel
Spreekt u Engels? Do you speak trapper pedal
English? pomp pump
Ik begrijp het niet I don’t understand stuur handlebars
kapot broken
vrouwen/mannen women/men
kinderen children
Numbers
heren/dames men’s/women’s
toilets nul 0
Ik wil… I want… een 1
Ik wil niet… I don’t want to… twee 2
(+verb) drie 3
Ik wil geen… I don’t want any… vier 4
(+noun) vijf 5
Wat kost…? How much is…? zes 6
sorry sorry zeven 7
hier/daar here/there acht 8
goed/slecht good/bad negen 9
groot/klein big/small tien 10
open/gesloten open/closed elf 11
duwen/trekken push/pull twaalf 12
nieuw/oud new/old dertien 13
goedkoop/duur cheap/expensive veertien 14
heet or warm/koud hot/cold vijftien 15
met/zonder with/without zestien 16
Hoe kom ik in…? How do I get to…? zeventien 17
Waar is…? Where is…? achttien 18
Hoe ver is het How far is it to…? negentien 19
naar…? twintig 20
Wanneer? When? een en twintig 21
ver/dichtbij far/near twee en twintig 22
links/rechts left/right dertig 30
rechtdoor straight ahead veertig 40
alle richtingen all directions (road vijftig 50
sign) zestig 60
postkantoor post office zeventig 70
postzegel(s) stamp(s) tachtig 80
geldwisselkantoor money exchange negentig 90
kassa cash desk honderd 100

171
honderd een 101 mei May
twee honderd 200 juni June
twee honderd een 201 juli July
vijf honderd 500 augustus August
vijf honderd vijf en twintig 525 september September
duizend 1000 oktober October
november November
L A N G U A G E Food and drink terms

Days december December
maandag Monday Time

dinsdag Tuesday
woensdag Wednesday uur hour
donderdag Thursday minuut minute
vrijdag Friday Hoe laat is het? What time is it?
zaterdag Saturday Het is… It’s…
zondag Sunday drie uur 3.00
gisteren yesterday vijf over drie 3.05
vandaag today tien over drie 3.10
morgen tomorrow kwart over drie 3.15
morgenochtend tomorrow morning tien voor half vier 3.20
jaar year vijf voor half vier 3.25
maand month half vier 3.30
week week vijf over half vier 3.35
dag day tien over half vier 3.40
kwart voor vier 3.45
Months tien voor vier 3.50
vijf voor vier 3.55
januari January acht uur ’s ochtends 8am
februari February een uur ’s middags 1pm
maart March acht uur ’s avonds 8pm
april April een uur ’s nachts 1am
Food and drink terms

pindakaas peanut butter
Basic terms and ingredients
sla/salade salad
belegd filled or topped, smeerkaas cheese spread
as in belegde stokbrood french bread
broodjes (bread suiker sugar
rolls topped with vis fish
cheese, etc) vlees meat
boter butter voorgerechten starters/hors
boterham/broodje sandwich/roll d’oeuvres
brood bread vruchten fruit
dranken drinks warm hot
eieren eggs zout salt
gerst barley
groenten vegetables Cooking methods
Hollandse saus hollandaise sauce
doorbakken well-done
honing honey
half doorbakken medium well-done
hoofdgerechten main courses
gebakken fried or baked
kaas cheese
gebraden roast
koud cold
gegrild grilled
nagerechten desserts
gekookt boiled
peper pepper
geraspt grated

172
gerookt smoked tong sole
gestoofd stewed zalm salmon
rood rare zeeduivel monkfish
Starters and snacks Vegetables
erwtensoep/snert thick pea soup with aardappelen potatoes

bacon or sausage bloemkool cauliflower
Food and drink terms L A N G U A G E
huzarensalade potato salad with bonen beans

pickles champignons mushrooms
koffietafel light midday meal erwten peas
of cold meats, hutspot mashed potatoes
cheese, bread, and carrots
and perhaps soup knoflook garlic
patat/friet chips/french fries komkommer cucumber
soep soup prei leek
uitsmijter ham or cheese with rijst rice
eggs on bread sla salad, lettuce
stampot andijvie mashed potato and
Meat and poultry endive
stampot boerenkool mashed potato and
biefstuk (hollandse) steak cabbage
biefstuk (duitse) hamburger uien onions
eend duck wortelen carrots
fricandeau roast pork zuurkool sauerkraut
fricandel frankfurter-like
sausage Sweets and desserts
gehakt minced meat
ham ham appelgebak apple tart or cake
kalfsvlees veal gebak pastry
kalkoen turkey ijs ice cream
karbonade a chop koekjes biscuits
kip chicken pannenkoeken pancakes
kroket spiced veal or beef pepernoten ginger nuts
in hash, coated in poffertjes small pancakes,
breadcrumbs fritters
lamsvlees lamb (slag)room (whipped) cream
lever liver speculaas spice and
ossenhaas tenderloin beef cinnamon-
rookvlees smoked beef flavoured biscuit
spek bacon stroopwafels waffles
worst sausages vla custard
Fish and seafood Fruits
forel trout aardbei strawberry

garnalen prawns amandel almond
haring herring appel apple
haringsalade herring salad appelmoes apple purée
kabeljauw cod citroen lemon
makreel mackerel druiven grape
mosselen mussels framboos raspberry
oesters oysters kers cherry
paling eel peer pear
schelvis haddock perzik peach
schol plaice pruim plum/prune

173
Flemish specialities
hutsepot a winter-warmer consisting of various bits of beef and pork (often including
pigs’ trotters and ears) casseroled with turnips, celery, leeks and parsnips.
konijn met pruimen rabbit with prunes.
paling in ’t groen eel braised in a green (usually spinach) sauce with herbs.
L A N G U A G E Glossary
stoemp mashed potato mixed with vegetable and/or meat purée.
stoofvlees cubes of beef marinated in beer and cooked with herbs and onions.
stoverij stewed beef and offal (especially liver and kidneys), slowly tenderized in dark
beer and served with a slice of bread covered in mustard.
waterzooi a delicious, filling soup-cum-stew, made with either chicken (van kip) or fish
(van riviervis).
kopstoot beer with a jenever

Drinks
chaser
anijsmelk aniseed-flavoured melk milk
warm milk met ijs with ice
appelsap apple juice met slagroom with whipped cream
bessenjenever blackcurrant gin pils beer
chocomel chocolate milk proost! cheers!
citroenjenever lemon gin sinaasappelsap orange juice
droog dry thee tea
frisdranken soft drinks tomatensap tomato juice
jenever a Dutch/Belgian gin vruchtensap fruit juice
karnemelk buttermilk wijn wine
koffie coffee (wit/rood/rosé) (white/red/rosé)
koffie verkeerd coffee with warm vieux Dutch brandy
milk zoet sweet
=beiiWho
Dutch terms
Abdij Abbey Belfort Belfry
Begijnhof Convent occupied by beguines Beurs Stock exchange
(begijns), i.e. members of a sisterhood
Botermarkt Butter market
living as nuns but without vows,
retaining the right of return to the Brug Bridge
secular world. See box, p.75 Burgher Member of the upper or
Beiaard Carillon (i.e. a set of tuned church mercantile classes of a town, usually
bells, either operated by an automatic with certain civic powers
mechanism or played by a keyboard) Geen toegang No entry
BG (Begane grond) Ground floor Gemeente Municipal, as in
(“basement” is K for kelder) Gemeentehuis (town hall)

174
Gerechtshof Law Courts Oost East
Gesloten Closed Paleis Palace
Gevel Gable: decoration on narrow- Plaats/Plein A square or open space
fronted canal houses Polder An area of land reclaimed from
Gilde Guild the sea
Gracht Canal Poort Gate
Glossary L A N G U A G E
Groentenmarkt Vegetable market Postbus Post box

(Grote) markt Central town square Raadhuis Town hall
and the heart of most north Belgian Rijk State
communities, normally still the site of
weekly markets Schatkamer Treasury
Hal Hall Schepenzaal Alderman’s Hall
Hof Courtyard Schone kunsten Fine arts
Huis House Schouwburg Theatre
Ingang Entrance Sierkunst Decorative arts
Jeugdherberg Youth hostel Spoor Track (as in railway) – trains arrive

and depart on track (as distinct from
Kaai Quay or wharf platform) numbers
Kapel Chapel Stadhuis town hall
Kasteel Castle Stedelijk Civic, municipal
Kerk Church; eg Grote Kerk – the Steeg Alley
principal church of the town
Steen Stone
Koning King
Stichting Institute or foundation
Koningin Queen
Straat Street
Koninklijk Royal
Toegang Entrance
Korenmarkt Corn market
Toren Tower
Kunst Art
Tuin Garden
Lakenhal Cloth hall: the building in
medieval weaving towns where cloth Uitgang Exit
would be weighed, graded and sold VA (Vanaf) “from”
Let Op! Attention! Vleeshuis Meat market
Luchthaven Airport Volkskunde Folklore
Molen Windmill Weg Way
Noord North West West
Ommegang Procession Zuid South
Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk or OLV Church
of Our Lady

Travel store
BRUGESdir2_Ads_pp175-182.indd 175 7/12/07 12:04:19 pm

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small print & Index
07 Bruges Index 183-192.indd 183 12/20/07 1:39:36 PM

184
A Rough Guide to Rough Guides
In 1981, Mark Ellingham, a recent graduate in English from Bristol University, was travelling
in Greece on a tiny budget and couldn’t find the right guidebook. With a group of friends he
wrote his own guide, combining a contemporary, journalistic style with a practical approach
to travellers’ needs. That first Rough Guide was a student scheme that became a publish-
ing phenomenon. Today, Rough Guides include recommendations from shoestring to luxury
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Publishing information
This second edition published May 2008 by Printed and bound in China
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Penguin Books Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL 192pp includes index
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185
Rough Guide credits
Text editor: Gavin Thomas Picture editor: Mark Thomas
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Photographers: Anthony Cassidy & Jean Production: Rebecca Short
Christophe Godet Cover design: Chloë Roberts
Cartography: Karobi Gogoi
SM
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The author
AA
L L LP R
Phil Lee has been writing for Rough Guides for well Mallorca, England and Toronto. He lives in
over fifteen years. His other books in the series Nottingham, where he was born and raised.
PRINT
include Canada, Norway, Amsterdam, Bruges,
Acknowledgements
Phil Lee would like to thank his editor, Gavin edition of the Directions Rough Guide to Bruges and
Thomas, for his customary good humour and Ghent. Special thanks also to Katie Lloyd-Jones and
attention to detail during the preparation of this new Anita Rampall of Tourism Flanders & Brussels.
Photo credits
All photography by Anthony Cassidy/ Jean Christophe Godet © Rough Guides except the
following:
p.1 The Markt © Alan Copson/Jon Arnold p.42 Ghentse Feesten © Tourist Office of
Images/Alamy Ghent
p.4 Café Bruges © Chris Coe/Axiom p.43 Meifoor © Tourism Brugge
p.5 Belgian chocolates © Ian Dagnall/Alamy p.43 Kerstmarkt © Tourism Brugge
p.11 Adoration of the Mystic Lamb by Jan p.43 Heilig Bloedprocessie © Tourism
Van Eyck © Corbis Brugge
p.14–15 All images reproduced with kind p.44 Festival Van Vlaanderen © Tourist
permission of the Municipal Museum Office of Ghent
Bruges/Groeninge Museum p.45 Concertgebouw © Tourism Brugge
p.16 Secret Reflect by Fernand Khnopff p.45 Musica Antiqua ensemble Finals
© Municipal Museum Bruges © Musica Antiqua Brugge
p.16 L’Attentat by René Magritte © ADAGP p.83 Diptych of Margareta van Eyck by Jan
Paris/DACS Municipal Museum Bruges/ Van Eyck © Municipal Museum Bruges/
Groeninge Museum Groeninge Museum
p.17 De Wraak von Hop Frog by James p.84 Death of our Lady by Hugo van der
Ensor © DACS/Municipal Museum Goes © Municipal Museum Bruges/
Bruges/Groeninge Museum Groeninge Museum
p.17 Man Eating Milk Soup by Constant p.85 Triptych of Willem Moreel by Hans
Permeke © DACS/Municipal Museum Memling © Municipal Museum Bruges/
Bruges/Groeninge Museum Groeninge Museum
p.20 Harring © Bruno Ehrs/Corbis p.86 The Judgement of Cambyses by Gerald
p.21 Design Museum photo courtesy of the David © Municipal Museum Bruges/
design museum Groeninge Museum
p.29 Mussels and chips © Mark Thomas/ p.87 The Last Judgement by Hieronymous
Rough Guides Bosch © Municipal Museum Bruges/
p.29 Stoofviees © Mark Thomas/Rough Groeninge Museum
Guides p.111 Adoration of the Mystic Lamb by Jan
p.32 Geuze © Mark Thomas/Rough Guides Van Eyck © Corbis
Selected images from our guidebooks are available for licensing from:
GDJ<=<J>9:HE>8IJG:H#8DB

?dZ[n
Maps are marked in colour. Note that in this index all Ghent entries are specified – those for
Bruges are not.
Battle of Golden Spurs 50, 60 Café de Medici 55
W Bauwensplein, Lieven, Ghent

122
Cafedraal 31, 80
Charlie Rockets 63
Christophe 80
accommodation 141–150. beaches 160
bed & breakfasts in Bruges Dagelijks Brood, Het 31, 63
See also hotels and hostels Den Amand 55
accommodation, Bruges Het Wit Beertje 146
Mr & Mrs Gheeraert 145 Den Dyver 30, 80
INDEX
142–143 Detavernier 79
Mrs Degraeve 146
accommodation, Ghent Eekhoetje, ’t 79
Number 11 146
148–149 Gran Kaffee de Passage 79
bed & breakfasts in Ghent
Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, Brooderie 150 In Den Wittekop 102
Ghent 11, 111 Chambreplus 150 Karmeliet, De 101
airport, Brussels Charleroi 153 beer, Belgian 32 Kok au Vin 102
apartments, holiday 145 L’Intermède 80
Beerblock, Jan 71
Apothecary of Laurent 79
Begijnenhuisje 76
St Janshospitaal 71 Lokkedize 79
Begijnhof 75 Patrick Devos
Archeology Museum 73 begijns 76
Archers’ Guildhouse 99 (De Zilveren Pauw) 81
beguines 76 Rock Fort 102
Arentshuis 20, 66 Belfort 10, 51 Stove, De 56
Arentspark 67 Belfort, Ghent 113 Tanuki 81
arrival 153 Belfry 10, 51 Verbeelding, De 80
by air 153
Belfry, Ghent 113 Visscherie, De 81
by car 154
Belgian beer 32 Windmolen, De 101
by ferry 154
Bennett, Arnold 4 Zilveren Pauw, De
by train 153
bicycle rental in Damme 104 (Patrick Devos) 81
Artevelde, Jacob van, in
bicycling 155 Zonneke, ’t 102
Ghent 121
Bij St Jacobs, Ghent 121 cafés and restaurants in
ATMs 160
Bijloke Abbey, Ghent 134 Ghent
Augustijnenbrug 13 3 Biggetjes, De 126
Augustijnenbrug (bridge) 94 Bijlokeabdij, Ghent 134
bike rental 155 Amadeus 126
bike tours 156 Avalon 126
X boat trips in Bruges 155

boat trips in Ghent 110
boat trips to Damme 104
Bij den wijzen en den zot 126
Blauwe Zalm, De 127
Brooderie 125
bars and clubs in Bruges Domestica 127
Bosch, Hieronymus 14, 86,135 Greenway 138
B–in 81
Bouts, Dieric 75 House of Eliott 127
Bistro du Phare 102
Bolero, De 82 Brangwyn, Frank 66 Malatesta 127
Brugs Beertje, Het 82 brewery, tours of 75 Marco Polo Trattoria 127
Garre, De 35, 56 Breydel, Jan 49 Pakhuis 127
L’Estaminet 82 Bruges 49–102 Patisserie Bloch 125
Ma Rica Rokk 82 Bruges Accommodation Quetzal De Chocolade
Oud Vlissinghe 35, 102 142–143 Bar 138
Republiek, De 35, 102 Bruges la Morte 89 Souplounge 126
Vuurmolen, De 102 Bruges Matins 50, 165 Camp, Camille van 60
Wijnbar Est 30, 82 Burg, The 57–63 Camus, Albert 112
bars and clubs in Ghent Burg, The 58 canal trips in Bruges 155
Decadence 138 buses, local 155 canal trips in Ghent 110
Dreupelkot, ’t 128 car rental 156
Dulle Griet 128 Carillon Chamber 52
Pink Flamingos 128
Rococo 129
Tempelier, De 129
Y carillon concerts 53
Carmelite Monastery Culture
Trollekelder, De 129 Cactusfestival 45, 158 Centre, Ghent 120
Turk, Den 129 Caermersklooster, Provinciaal carriages, horse-drawn 156
Vooruit 138 Cultuurcentrum, Ghent 120 Cartoon festival 159
Waterhuis aan de Bierkant, cafés and restaurants in Bruges Castle of the Counts, Ghent
Het 129 Belegde Boterham, De 55 118
Basilica of the Holy Blood 57 Bron, De 79 Cathedral of the Holy Saviour
Battle of Damme 105 Café Craenenburg 55 19, 73

187
Cathedral, St Bavo’s, Ghent
18, 109–112
cell phones 160
Z \
Charles II of England 99, 100 Damme 103–107 fashion 38, 39
Charles the Bold 69, 71 bicycle rental 104 ferries to Belgium 154
Charles the Good, Count of boat trips to 104 Festival van Vlaanderen
Flanders 61 buses to 104 44, 158
Chateaubriand, François- cafés 107 festivals 42, 43, 158, 159
René 134 Church of Our Lady 104 Film Festival, Ghent 159
chemists 160 cycling around 105 Fine Art Museum, Ghent 135
Chesterton, G.K. 52 cycling to 104 Flanders Festival 44, 158
Chimay beer 33 Hoeke 106 flea markets (Bruges) 78
INDEX
chocolate 37 information 104 flea markets (Ghent) 125
chocolate shops in Bruges Krinkeldijk 106 Flemish cuisine 28,29
77 Leopoldkanaal 106 Flemish food and drink
chocolate shops in Ghent Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk 104 glossary 171–173
124, 138 restaurants 107 Flemish glossary 173
shops 106 Flemish language 169–174
Christmas Market 43, 159
St Janshospitaal 104 Folklore Museum 96
chronology 165
Stadhuis 103 Folklore Museum, Ghent 119
Church of Our Lady 19, 68
Tijl Ulenspiegel Museum 104
Church of St James 90 football 160
Town Hall 103
cinema – Ghent Film Damme, Battle of 105
Festival 159
cinema 157
Cinema Novo 158
Damme, cycling around
107
dance 157
]
Citadelpark, Ghent 134 Galbert of Bruges 61
David, Gerard 15, 86
Civiele Griffie 60 Geeraard de Duivelsteen,
Delporte, Charles 105 Ghent 122
Claeissens, Pieter 95
Delvaux, Paul 89, 136 Gent, Justus van 110
Clark, Kenneth 112
Design Museum, Ghent Gentpoort 99
classical music 157
21, 117 Gentse Feesten 42, 158
climate 5
Diamond Museum 75 Gerechtshof 62
Cloth Hall, Ghent 113
Dijver 66 Gezelle, Guido 97
clothes, secondhand in Ghent
disabilities, travellers with Ghent 108–138
123, 137
160 Ghent Festival 42, 158
clubs in Bruges – see bars
driving to Bruges 154 Ghent Film Festival 159
and clubs
driving to Ghent 154 Ghent, Central 108–129
clubs in Ghent – see bars
and clubs Duivelsteen, Geeraard de, Ghent, Central 109
Collegium Instrumentale Ghent 122 Ghent, Pacification of 114
Dulle Griet, Ghent 120 Ghent, Southern and eastern
Brugense 157
Dutch language 169–174 130–138
Concertgebouw 45, 157
Dyck, Anthony van 117, 136 Ghent, Southern and
concerts, carillon 53
eastern 132–133
Concertzaal Handelsbeurs,
gin (jenever) 36
Ghent 157
Coninck, Pieter de 49
Contemporary Art (SMAK),
[ glossary, Flemish 173
Goes, Hugo van der 75, 84
electricity 160 Golden Fleece, Order of the
Museum of, Ghent 134 70, 74
Corn Market, Ghent 115 email access 160
Golden Spurs, Battle of 50, 60
Coster, Charles de 104 emergencies 160
Golden Tree, Pageant of
Craenenburg, Café 50 Engels Klooster 99
the 159
cuisine, Flemish 28 English Convent 99
Gothic Hall 60
Cultuurcentrum Ensor, James 17, 89, 136 Gouden Handrei 13, 93
Caermersklooster, entry requirements 154 Graslei, Ghent 115
Provinciaal, Ghent 120 Erasmus 67 grave frescoes 70
currency 160 Euro 160 Gravensteen, Het, Ghent 118
cycling 155 Eurostar 153 Great Butchers’ Hall, Ghent 116
cycling – six-day Flanders Eurotunnel 154 Groeninge Museum 10, 83–89
event 159 exchange, currency 160 Groentenmarkt, Ghent 116
cycling around Damme 105 Expressionists, The 89 Groot Vleeshuis, Ghent 116
cycling around Damme 107 Eyck, Jan van 15, 83, 111 Grote Sikkel, Ghent 122
cycling to Damme 104 Eyckplein, Jan van 91 Gruuthuse 20
cycling tours 156 Ezelpoort 99 Gruuthuse Museum 68

188
gueuze 32 Ibis Centrum Kathedraal 147 Leopoldkanaal 106
guided tours 156 Ibis Centrum Opera 147 Longfellow, Henry Wadsworth
Guido Gezelle Museum 97 Monasterium Poortackere 51, 98
guild houses, Graslei in 25, 147 Louis XVIII in Ghent 131, 134
Ghent 115 Novotel Centrum 147 Loyola, Ignatius 94
Sofitel Gent Belfort 147
luggage, left 160
Trianon 1 150
^
Huidenvettersplein 64
Haeghen, Museum Arnold

Huis van Alijn Museum,
Ghent 119
Huisbrouwerij De Halve
c
Vander, Ghent 131 Mann 75 Mad Meg, Ghent 120
Half Moon Brewery 75 Magritte, René 16, 89, 136
INDEX
markets, open-air (Bruges) 78

Hallen 52
Hane-Steenhuyse, Hôtel d’,
Ghent 131
_ markets, open-air (Ghent) 125
Markt, North and east of the
heels, high 161 Ieper 156 90–102
Heilig Bloed 59 information 155 Markt, North and east of
Heilig Bloed Basiliek 11, 57 internet access 160 the 92–93
Heilig Bloodprocessie 43, Isenbrant, Adriaen 87,135 Markt, South of the 64–82
59, 158 Markt, south of the 65
Markt, The 49–56
`
Herregouts, Hendrik 95
Hippolytus, Legend of St 75 Markt, The 50
history 165 Mary of Burgundy 69, 71
holiday apartments 145 Master of the St Lucy
Jan van Eyckplein 12
holidays, public 159 Legend 91
jenever (gin) 36
Holy Blood (of Christ) 59 Jeruzalemkerk 18, 96 Master of the St Ursula
Holy Blood, Procession of the Jordaens, Jacob 135 Legend 85, 100
43, 59, 158 Justitiepaleis, Ghent 131 Matins, Bruges 50, 165
Holy Saviour’s Cathedral Maximilian, Holy Roman
Emperor 50
a
19, 73
Hoogpoort, Ghent 122 Meifoor 43, 158
horse-drawn carriages 156 Memling, Hans 85
Hospitaalmuseum 71 Kantcentrum 21, 95 Memling, Hans, collection 72
hostels in Bruges Kantmuseum 96 menu reader 171–173
Bauhaus International Youth Kerstmarkt 43, 159 Michelangelo 68
Hostel 27, 146 Khnopff, Fernand 16, 89 Minnewater 13, 76
Charlie Rockets 27, 146 Klinkers 159 Minnewaterpark 76
International Youth Hostel Korenlei, Ghent 116 mobile phones 160
Europa 146 Korenmarkt, Ghent 115 Museum Arnold Vander
Passage 26, 146 Haeghen, Ghent 131
Kraanlei, Ghent 120
hostels in Ghent Museum voor Schone
Kraanplein 91
Jeugdherberg De Draecke 150 Kunsten, Ghent 135
kriek 33
hotels in Bruges museums – discount tickets
Kruispoort 98
Adornes 23, 144 in Bruges 49
Alegria 144 Kunsthal St Pietersabdij,
Ghent 136 museums – discount tickets
Bauhaus Budget Hotel 144 in Ghent 108
Cordoeanier 144 kwak 32
Musica Antiqua 45, 159
Egmond 144
b
Europ 144
Goezeput, De 25, 144
Jacobs 24, 144
Montanus 144 lace, Bruges 97
d
Orangerie, De 144 Lace Centre 95 Napoleon 60
Passage Hotel 145
Lace Museum 96 Nightingale, Florence 115
Relais Oud Huis Amsterdam
lace shops 77, 101, 124 North and east of the Markt
23, 145
Swaene, Die 22, 145
Lakenhalle, Ghent 113 92–93
Walburg 25, 145 Lanchals, Pieter 70
language 169–174
hotels in Ghent
Best Western Hotel Chamade
147
Law Courts, former 62
left luggage 160 e
Boatel 23, 147 Legend of St Lucy 91 Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk 11,
Erasmus 147 Legend of St Ursula 72, 100 19, 68
Flandre 147 Legend of St Ursula, Master Oost, Jacob van, the Elder 88
Gravensteen 147 of the 85 opera 157

189
Opera House, Ghent 131 Rozenhoedkaai 13, 64 Kaas Mekka 138
Order of the Golden Fleece Rubens, Pieter Paul 110, 135 Kloskanthuis 124
70, 74 Koffiebranderij Coffee
Orley, Bernard van 87
Orley, Jan van 74
Orval 33
i Roasters Sao Paulo 138
Neuhaus 124
Obius 124
Sand sculpture 159 Olivade 138
Oud St Jan 71
Schone Kunsten, Museum Olivier Strelli 125
Our Lady, Church of 19, 68 voor, Ghent 135 Peeters Delicatessen 125
Overpoortstraat, Ghent 136 Schuttersgilde Strelli, Olivier 125
St Sebastiaan 99 Tierenteyn 125
f secondhand clothes in Ghent Van Hecke 138

123, 137 Vlaams Wandtapijt, ’t 125
Sint Janshospitaal 11
INDEX
shopping – clothes and
P&O Ferries 154 fashion 38 SMAK, Ghent 134
Pacification of Ghent 114 shopping – food and drink 36 Smedenpoort 99
Pageant of the Golden Tree shops in Bruges South of the Markt 65
159 Apostelientje, ’t 101 Spaanse Loskaai 93
Palace of Justice, Ghent 131 Bilbo 41, 77 Spanjaardstraat 94
parking 154 Bottle Shop, The 37, 53 Spiegelrei canal 92
passport control 154 Callebert 40, 53 Spilliaert, Leon 136
Patershol, The, Ghent 120 Chocolate Line, The 37, 77 St Annakerk 95
performing arts 157 Claeys 77 St Baafsabdij, Ghent 130
Permeke, Constant 17, 89 Classics 77 St Baafskathedraal, Ghent 18,
Decorte 77 109–112
pharmacies 160
Deldycke 37, 53 St Basil 57
Philip the Good of Burgundy Diksmuids boterhuis 53
phones 160 St Bavo’s Abbey, Ghent 130
INNO 54
Poertoren 76 St Bavo’s Cathedral, Ghent
Javana 54
police emergencies 160 18, 109–112
Kasimir’s Antique Studio
Poortersloge 92 41, 77 St Bonifaciusbrug (bridge)
post office 161 Knapp Targa 38, 77 12, 67
Potterie, Museum Onze-Lieve- La Pasta 54 St Donaaskathedraal, site
Vrouw ter 21, 100 Leonidas 77 of 62
Pottery, Museum of Our Lady Louis Delhaize 78 St Donatian’s Cathedral,
of the 21, 100 Meester, De 78 site of 62
Pourbus, Frans the Elder 88 Neuhaus 78 St Gilliskerk 94
Oil & Vinegar 54 St Hippolytus 75
Pourbus, Frans the Younger 88
Olivier Strelli 39, 54 St Jakobskerk 90
Pourbus, Pieter 88, 91, 94
Pollentier 78 St Janshospitaal 70
Praalstoet van de Gouden Quicke 39, 78
Boom 159 St Janshospitaal museum 71
Reisboekhandel 54 St Janshuismolen 98
Procession of the Holy Blood Rex Spirou 39, 54
43, 158 St John Nepomuk, story of 66
Reyghere, De 54
Provoost, Jan 14, 71, 87 St Jorishof, Ghent 122
Rombaux 62
public holidays 159 Roode Steen, De 101
St Lucy Legend, Master of
Publiekstheater Groot Huis, Standaard Boekhandel 78 the 91
Ghent 158 Strelli, Olivier 39, 54 St Michielsbrug (bridge),
Striep, De 78 Ghent 115
Tintin Shop 41, 55 St Michielskerk, Ghent 117
g shops in Ghent
Aleppo 123
Alternatief 123
St Niklaaskerk, Ghent 19, 114
St Pietersabdij, Ghent 136
St Pietersplein, Ghent 136
Quasimodo tours 156 Atlas and Zanzibar 137 St Rochus, Legend of 88
Quasimundo tours 156 Bethsabis 123 St Salvatorskathedraal 19, 73
Betty Boop 137 St Ursula Legend 72
Boomerang 137
h Claudia Sträter 123
Cora Kemperman 124
St Ursula Legend, Master of
the 85, 100
St Veerleplein, Ghent 119
Count’s Gallery 124
Renaissance Hall 61 St Walburgakerk 19, 94
Dulce 124
Renaissancezaal ’t Brugse Stadhuis 59
English Bookshop, The 137
Vrije 61 Fallen Angels, The 124 Stadhuis, Ghent 113
restaurants in Bruges – see FNAC 137 Stadsschouwburg 157
cafés and restaurants Galerie St John 124 STAM, Ghent 134
restaurants in Ghent – see Home Studio 137 stilettos 161
cafés and restaurants INNO 137 Stoofstraat 75
Rodenbach, Georges 89 Interphilia 124 Superfast Ferries 154

190
Surrealists, The 89 train enquiries, Belgian 161
Susanna (Biblical figure, story
of) 62
Transeuropa Ferries 154
transport, city 155
m
Symbolists, The 89 Trinitarians 94 walking tours 156
Tussen Bruggen, Ghent 115 Walplein 75
j k
Waterhalle 67
weather 5
Weyden, Rogier van der 15,
tapestries in Bruges 68, 71, 84, 135
74, 101 Ulenspiegel, Tijl 104 windmills 98
tapestry industry in Bruges 69 Woestijne, Gustave van de
taxis 161
l
89
INDEX
telephones 160
Wollestraat bridge 66
Thalys trains 153
Wordsworth, William 49
theatre 157
Vegetable Market, Ghent 116 World War I 156
Theresa, Empress Maria 60
Tijl Ulenspiegel 104 Veldstraat, Ghent 131
o
time zone 161 visas 154
Tintin 41 Vismarkt 64
tipping 161 Vismarkt, Oude, Ghent 119
toilets – public 161 Vives, Juan Luis 67, 94 Ypres (Ieper), 156
Tolhuis 92 Vlaamse Opera, Ghent 131,
p
tourist offices 155 158
tours, guided 156 Volkskunde, Museum voor 96
Town Hall 59 Vooruit, Ghent 136, 158
Town Hall, Ghent 113 Vrijdagmarkt, Ghent 121 Zesdaagse an Vlaanderen 159

191
N OT E S

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“A guide as direct as
DIRECTIONS is exactly
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Bruges & Ghent DIRECTIONS

has all you need to get the
most out of your stay – the
sights not to miss, the top
places to stay, eat and shop,
the coolest bars.
BROWSE our Ideas section
and you’ll know what you
want to do, 24 hours a day.
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ROUGHGUIDES

Rough Guide DIRECTIONS

WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

NEW YORK • LONDON • DELHI

00 Bruges Intro 1-8.indd 1 12/20/07 10:35:26 AM

Ideas 9 Accommodation 139

00 Bruges Intro 1-8.indd 3 12/20/07 10:35:33 AM

Perhaps so, but for the modern palate,

quite what it seems: many build-

ings are not the genuine article,

00 Bruges Intro 1-8.indd 4 12/20/07 10:35:39 AM

van Eyck. Nonetheless, the atmosphere here is markedly different

00 Bruges Intro 1-8.indd 5 12/20/07 10:35:46 AM

00 Bruges Intro 1-8.indd 6 12/20/07 10:35:49 AM

The Belfort, Bruges

SOUTH OF THE MARKT,

00 Bruges Intro 1-8.indd 7 12/20/07 10:36:00 AM

Ghent Train station

NORTH AND EAST OF THE CENTRAL GHENT

A popular day-trip from Bruges,

00 Bruges Intro 1-8.indd 8 12/20/07 10:36:08 AM

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-49 9 12/20/07 10:36:36 AM

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-410 10 12/20/07 10:36:42 AM

Heilig Bloed Basiliek

 Adoration of the Mystic

Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-411 11 12/20/07 10:36:54 AM

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-412 12 12/20/07 10:37:00 AM

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-413 13 12/20/07 10:37:12 AM

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-414 14 12/20/07 10:37:16 AM

 Rogier van der Weyden

 Jan van Eyck

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-415 15 12/20/07 10:37:26 AM

The ﬁnest collections of

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-416 16 12/20/07 10:37:33 AM

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-417 17 12/20/07 10:37:45 AM

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-418 18 12/20/07 10:37:51 AM

 Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-419 19 12/20/07 10:38:02 AM

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-420 20 12/20/07 10:38:08 AM

Kantcentrum  Onze-Lieve-Vrouw ter Pot-

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-421 21 12/20/07 10:38:16 AM

Die Swaene, Bruges

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-422 22 12/20/07 10:38:18 AM

Relais Oud Huis

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-423 23 12/20/07 10:38:28 AM

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-424 24 12/20/07 10:38:31 AM

De Goezeput, Bruges  Monasterium Poortackere,

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-425 25 12/20/07 10:38:41 AM

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-426 26 12/20/07 10:38:43 AM

Charlie Rockets, Bruges

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-427 27 12/20/07 10:38:52 AM

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-428 28 12/20/07 10:38:54 AM

Mussels and chips

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-429 29 12/20/07 10:39:02 AM

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-430 30 12/20/07 10:39:08 AM

Het Dagelijks Brood  Cafedraal

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-431 31 12/20/07 10:39:14 AM

01 Bruges&Ghent Idea section 9-432 32 12/20/07 10:39:18 AM

Adoration of the Mystic

Rogier van der Weyden

Jan van Eyck

Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk

Kantcentrum Onze-Lieve-Vrouw ter Pot-

De Goezeput, Bruges Monasterium Poortackere,

Het Dagelijks Brood Cafedraal