Gdańsk: Including Sopot & Gdynia

Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
Gdask
No. 44, August - November 2014
No. 44 - 5z
inyourpocket.com
Including
Sopot & Gdynia
Contents
Feature
Solidarity
Further Afield
8
Malbork
100
Arrival & Transport
14
Leisure
104
City Basics
20
22
Shopping
110
Basic History
Directory
118
Culture & Events
24
Hotels
119
Restaurants
Polish Food
30
52
Cafs
62
Nightlife
66
Sightseeing
Essential
Hevelius
Freie Stadt Danzig
World War II
Phoenix from the Flames
75
88
90
92
98
Maps & Index

Gdask Centre Map
Gdask City Map
Sopot Map
Gdynia Map
Regional Map
Street Index
Listings Index
Features Index
129
130
132
132
134
136
137
138
IN PRINT
ONLINE
ON YOUR MOBILE
The impressive new Gdansk Shakespeare Theatre opens on September 19 with British week followed by the annual Shakespeare Festival
Photo by Dobrochna Surajewska
facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket
August - November 2014
Foreword
The Tri-city of Gdansk, Sopot and Gdynia is in full ow as
we write this. Yet the big dates in the year are still ahead
of us with important anniversaries and grand openings of
new city attractions running into the back of each other.
Within days there are two huge events and anniversaries
taking place. August 30 sees the opening of the European
Solidarity Centre on the edge of the former Lenin Shipyard
while less than 48 hours later at 4:45 on September 1, the
country will solemnly mark the 75th anniversary of the
beginning of WWII which started here. Oh and theres a
multi-million Euro Shakespeare Theatre opening as well on
Sept 19. If this guide were a suitcase wed have the whole
oce sitting on it trying to close it as socks and underwear
continued to spill out. And to think locals used to ask us
why any foreigner would want to come here. Enjoy your
stay and dont forget if you are carrying a smart phone or
tablet that you can download a PDF of our guide for free
from our website or use the content with all of the venues
mapped by visiting m.inyourpocket.com. As always we
welcome comments to our editors at editor_poland@
inyourpocket.com. Enjoy your stay.
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In 1980 an unknown, out-ofwork electrician scaled the wall

of the Lenin Shipyard in Gdansk
and soon after found himself
the leader of a 10-million strong
civil movement which became
known around the word as
Solidarity. 34 years on Lech Walesa paid a visit to the
new European Solidarity Centre and we take a look at it
and how it came about on page 8.
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by Jerzy Konik | Photo from the European Solidarity Centre collection, displayed at the permanent exhibition
in the new ECS building at 1 Solidarity Sq. Taken in Cannes in 1981
What is the Tri-city?

While this guide is called Gdansk In Your Pocket, it is worth
noting that it is a guide to the whole of, what the locals
call, Trjmiasto (Tri-city). The Tri-city is made up of three
cities (Gdansk, Sopot and Gdynia) each proudly independent; each with its own city government and mayor and
most importantly each with its own history. For the sake of
clarity this guide is named after the city which is the oldest, largest and best known internationally. Gdansk is recognised as being over 1,000 years old, a city that has been
fought over for centuries by Poles and Germans, Russians
and Swedes to name just a few, but which has a rich yet
sometimes tragic history. Sopot developed as a spa resort
developing a reputation as a playground for the rich and
famous. Gdynia meanwhile is a city which was born with
a purpose little under one hundred years ago. Todays city
was conceived to represent Polish independence and to
give the country access to the sea. It was built to challenge
and resist the power of Gdansk and though the world has
changed a lot in the last century it still often sees itself
playing the role of yang to Gdansks ying.
The growth of the cities in the past 60 years has meant that
the spaces and boundaries between them have gradually
been lled and whittled away to the point where there is
now an almost seamless conurbation running over 40km
along the Baltic coast from Gdansk in the south to Gdynia
in the north.
For the purpose of brevity we have joined the three cities together in this guide but please note the city name
included next to each review as they may literally be in a
dierent city to the one you are in.
GDANSK
Gdansk has been a cosmopolitan city for centuries and
has welcomed people of all nationalities and creeds for
the vast majority of them. On two occasions it has even
been a state in its own right and traditionally people from
here would describe themselves as Danzigers (to use the
German name) or Gdaszczanin (to use the Polish) which
demonstrates the unique nature of this once great port
city. Seen as the main tourist attraction in the region,
thanks to its long, rich history and beautifully rebuilt old
town, Gdansk is also the regions economic powerhouse.
And dont forget that this is the city where two of the key
moments in 20th century history took place the rst
shots of WWII were red here while 40 years later the rst
cracks in the Iron Curtain were forced open by the Solidarity movement.
SOPOT
Sopot is one of the countrys most famous and fashionable towns particularly in the summer months when it
often feels that half of the capital has decamped here
to see and be seen. The towns modern history began
with the building of a bathhouse and spa by a retired
French doctor in Napoleons army and its reputation
continued to grow through the first few decades of the
20th century when, as part of the German Empire and
then as a part of the Free City of Gdansk, it became the
summer home and playground for many of Europes ruling classes. Kaiser Wilhelm II, for instance, had a summer
home here.
Today, Sopot is once again a hip and happening place
with its trendy nightlife making it the Tri-citys party
town. Its sandy and sheltered beaches and range of
top class hotel and spas, kilometres of cycle routes
and forest paths makes it a popular place to come and
relax.
GDYNIA
GDYNIA
SOPOT
GDASK
Gdask In Your Pocket
Gdynia is a city born out of the Treaty of Versailles in 1919.

The League of Nations decision to create the Free City of
Danzig (Gdansk) left the neighbouring village of Gdynia
in the newly reformed Polish state and at the end of the
infamous Polish corridor the narrow strip of land granted
to Poland to give it access to the sea. The quiet shing village became the focus of huge development - construction began on May 21, 1921 and within 5 years a new
city and major port had been created. While it lacks the
1,000 year history of its better known neighbour, Gdynia
is a wonderful example of a 20th century city with its construction covering the Art Deco period of the 20s and 30s,
the Socialist era of post-war Europe and the modern designs of the post-communist Poland. Sometimes seen as
the serious brother of the three Gdynia has some beautiful
beaches and walks as well as some good little restaurants,
cafes and bars.
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Pharmacy Aryton Art of cooking Badura BBHome Benetton Benetton Kids/Sisley Young Betty Barclay
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Play Pollini Pralnia 5Sec/Dry cleaners Prima Moda Pure Jatomi Fitness Q Robert Kupisz
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150 shops
free parking
Solidarity
Solidarity
THE SOLIDARITY MOVEMENT
The word Solidarity, or Solidarno as it was in Polish, is synonymous with the city of Gdansk. Although the movement
which burst into life at the time of the shipyard strikes of
1980 is closely connected with Gdansk, the phenomenon
that was Solidarno was not conned to the city. If truth
be told there are other cities in Poland which feel that
Gdansk has unfairly become the symbol for a movement
that connected with and born from Poles throughout the
country. But for the foreign visitor with a memory of the
1980 strikes the image of Solidarity is Gdansk, its shipyards
and the leader of the protests Lech Wasa.
The story of Solidarity is a more complicated one than most
foreign visitors will be aware of. Although the movement
and the trade union were ocially christened in 1980, their
roots can be traced back some ten years earlier. Protesting against plunging living standards workers at the Lenin
Shipyards in Gdansk and other yards in Gdynia, Elblag and
Szczecin took to the streets, with the army promptly called
in to intervene. Bloody clashes led to the deaths of 45 people, and ultimately forced communist leader Wadysaw
Gomuka out of power. Replaced by Edward Gierek, his
half-mad economic policies served to create an illusion of
prosperity, as well as generating a ush of jobs in Gdansks
Nowy Port area. But the memory of 1970 did not fade and
Gdansk remained a ticking bomb for the authorities. With
the seventies drawing to a close tensions started to rise
again, with living standards falling and the economy in
huge debt built on massive foreign loans.
Solidarno
& solidarity
In August, 1980 the dismissal of female crane operator,

Anna Walentynowicz at Gdansks Lenin Shipyards provided the spark for workers to go on strike. Workers already
disillusioned with price increases and the falling value of
their salaries were ready to take action. Lech Walesa (written Lech Wasa in Polish) and other activists were already
planning strike action but it soon became clear that momentum within the yard was growing quickly and it was
this that spurred Walesa, red from the shipyard in 1976
for anti-government activities, to famously scale the wall
of the Lenin shipyard to take control. Walesa with his trademark sharp trading managed to steer his colleagues away
from mere wage demands towards the idea of creating a
trade union movement to represent the workers and to
ght injustice.
In 1980 the Lenin Shipyard in Gdansk went on strike. But this was no ordinary
strike. The start of the protest was to mark the beginning of a tense 18-day
stand-o between the workers, students and intelligentsia on one side and the
government and its security apparatus on the other that would rock the ruling
Communist regime and give birth to a movement that within weeks would have
10 million members. This is its story and the legacy that can be seen in the new
European Solidarity Centre.
This time the workers learned from the mistakes of 1970

and did not confront the authorities but instead locked
themselves into the shipyards. Three days later leaders representing workers from over 150 industrial plants, as well as
crucially members from across the social spectrum in the
country, met in the shipyards to hammer out 21 demands,
including the legalisation of independent trade unions.
Days of tension followed, with tanks and armed units
stationed menacingly outside the gates of the shipyards.
On August 31 the government backed down, agreeing to
meet the 21 demands - thereby marking the rst peace-
Lech Walesa is hoisted through the Lenin Shipyard following the signi
ning of the Augus
ust Accords, August 31, 1980.
0.
Stanisaw Skadanowski / ECS Collection
ful victory over communism. The agreement was famously

signed in the shipyards by Lech Walesa using a large souvenir Pope John Paul II pen.
A month later, on September 22, delegates from 36 regional
unions met in Gdansk forming a coalition under the name
of Solidarity. Lech Walesa, the unlikely hero of August, was
elected as chairman. The next few months marked a golden period for the nation; some ten million people joined
the Solidarity movement, and Poland enjoyed a freedom
unknown for decades.
Riding the crest of a wave Solidarity continued to lobby for
further reforms and free elections, infuriating the Kremlin.
With Soviet invasion a looming threat the Polish President,
General Wojciech Jaruzelski, declared a state of martial
law on December 13, 1981, and tanks once again rolled
through the streets. Though Solidarity was ocially dissolved, and its leaders imprisoned, it continued to operate
underground. When Father Jerzy Popieuszko, Solidaritys
chaplain, was abducted and murdered by the secret police
in 1984 over a million people attended his funeral.
Renewed labour strikes and a faltering economy forced Jaruzelski into initiating talks with opposition gures in 1988,
and the following year Solidarity was once again granted
legal status. Participating in Polands rst post-communist
election the party swept to victory, with Walesa leading
from the front. Lech Walesa became the rst freely elected
president of Poland in December 1990 and served until
1995 when he lost the following election to Aleksander
Kwasniewski, a former communist.
In spite of overseeing Polands transition to a market
economy, the members of Solidarity started to splinter into
new political groupings and the party gradually found its
power being eroded by the emergence of fresher political
parties. The 2000 elections for the Sejm (lower parliament)
sounded the death knell for the party. Failing to even make
the minimum vote to qualify for representation in parliament, the party which changed history found itself out of
active politics. In recent years it has once again become the
voice of protest as it campaigns against government policies such as job cuts and the raising of the pension age as
Polands largest trade union.
Alojzy Tomaszewski
Solidarity
Solidarity
Hall E hosts The Road to Democracy and demonstrates
the important role played by Polish-born Pope John Paul
II (the former Bishop of Krakow Cardinal Karol Wojtyla). His
messages of hope delivered during his pilgrimages to his
homeland fuelled the struggle for freedom and inspired
youth movements and society as a whole to renew their
ght. The growing demands and the worsening economic
crisis resulted in the governing regime agreeing to the
Round Table talks in 1989. The subsequent partly-free elections saw Solidarity storm to victory and saw Poland become the rst Communist Bloc country to win its freedom.
EUROPEAN SOLIDARITY
CENTRE
The huge construction you can see next to the entrance to
the Gdansk Shipyards is the new European Solidarity Centre which is due to open on August 30, 2014. The 5-storey
building which has been designed to give the impression
of walls cracking and tilting and is covered in rust-coloured
sheet metal reminiscent of a ships hull, has been a project
many years in the making. It was nally signed into life in
2005 on the 25th anniversary of the signing of the August
Accords when a Founding Act was signed in Solidarity
Square by 29 joint-signatories including EU Commission
chief Jose Manuel Barroso, Polish President Aleksander
Kwasniewski and Solidarity legend and former President
Lech Walesa
.
There are a number of aims to the centre. First and foremost
it is designed to be a symbol of the victory of the Solidarity
movement and the way that victory was achieved peacefully thanks to the power of people uniting in solidarity
with each other. It is both denitions of this word that the
centres organisers want to pay tribute to and to develop
further. The proclamation issued by the joint-signatories in
2005 stated that they wanted the European Solidarity Centre to become the worlds centre for the ideas of freedom,
democracy and solidarity to be fostered.
The building is centred around a permanent exhibition
dedicated to the history of Solidarity and the opposition,
which led to the democratic transformation of the countries of Central and Eastern Europe. But the exhibition forms
just a part of the European Solidarity Centres daily function.
The building features a library, reading rooms and archives
which are completely accessible to researchers and any
interested reader alike. The conference rooms and other
spaces, such as the winter garden on the ground oor, host
debates and concerts serving projects of both the ESC and
outside associations aimed at working towards the common good. A viewing terrace on the roof allows visitors to
look out over the remains of the Lenin Shipyards where the
Solidarity movement was born.
The building is free to enter and to move around there are
no scowling security men on the door. The major attraction
for the foreign visitor is the permanent exhibition spread
over two oors, six dierent halls and occupying 3,000m2.
This is the one part of the centre for which you need a ticket. This permanent exhibition tells the story of Solidarity;
where it began, how it grew and ultimately where it led the
people of Poland and the occupied countries of the Communist Bloc. For those familiar with the highly-regarded
Roads to Freedom (Drogi do Wolnosci) exhibition, this is its
successor and aims to build upon its legacy and develop
the story further. It combines traditional display methods
with some truly impressive state-of-the-art technology
which allows visitors access to authentic artefacts, 3D projections, photographs, lm, declassied security service
documents and interactive displays.
10 Gdask In Your Pocket
Grzegorz Mehring / ECS Archives
ECS PERMANENT EXHIBITION

The first hall (A) you will enter is called The Birth of
Solidarno and is devoted to the strikes of August 1980.
Youll see the cab of crane operator Anna Walentynowicz, whose sacking close to her retirement created the
spark that saw the shipyard rise up in protest. Authentic
materials salvaged from the shipyard are used to tell the
story with the former canteen table now supporting the
interactive terminals and former workers helmets suspended over visitors heads onto which archive film is
projected.
Moving into hall B, entitled The Power of the Powerless,
you see the world that preceded the strikes of 1980 which
give you an insight into the roots of the opposition movement and what the totalitarian regime looked and felt like.
There are operational records from the security services and
memories of the failed protests in 1970 which resulted in
45 deaths as they were ruthlessly crushed by security and
military personnel.
Hall C brings you into the room dedicated to Solidarno
and Hope. Its here that you get a sense of the unexpected and unfamiliar freedom the strikes bought the
country in August 1980 and the sixteen months that followed until the movement was outlawed and the country placed under Martial Law on December 13, 1981.
Visitors are guided by a white and red trail which when
reected into the ceiling panel forms the legendary trade
unions logo.
Next comes The War with Society and you are graphically given a sense of how the freedom and hope of the
sixteen months following August 1980 was systematically destroyed. The space narrows and visitors are ushered toward a Militia van with the riot shields of Zomo
(the armed paramilitary police) pressing you deeper into
the hall. The terror and dread of the Martial Law period
are conveyed while you witness the activity in the underground Solidarity movement as they try to rally the
people to stand rm and resist. This chapter of the exhibition ends with the award of the Nobel Peace Prize to
Lech Walesa in 1983.
The triumph of Freedom in the nal hall shows how the

changes in Poland reverberated across the Communist
Bloc as country after country rose up and demanded
democracy. Countries were reborn and countless new
states emerged. As Lech Walesa later told President Barack
Obama, (the Poles) smashed the teeth of the Soviet bear
and when he couldnt bite anymore, the rest of the nations
made their own freedom. Visitors are invited to add their
tickets to the stack of those who have visited before in a
symbol of solidarity.
As well as visiting the exhibition you can also take a moment to visit the Pope John Paul II Hall to reect as you look
out through the windows onto the Monument of the Fallen
Shipyard Workers.
Audio guides are available in Polish, English, French, German, Russian, Spanish and the local Kashubian language.
There will be audio description for the visually impaired
and sign language and loops for the hearing impaired. The
entire space is designed to be accessible to all. There will
also be a bar, a cafe, a restaurant and a shop on-site where
you can relax as well.
EUROPEAN SOLIDARITY CENTRE
(EUROPEJSKIE CENTRUM SOLIDARNOCI)
QB-1, Pl. Solidarnoci 1, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 772 40 00,
www.ecs.gda.pl. Open from August 30: 07:00 - 20:00.
Exhibition open from August 30: 10:00 - 20:00. From October open 07:00 - 18:00. Exhibition open 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission free. Admission to the exhibition 17/13z,
family ticket 47z
Pawe Czarzasty / ECS Archives
AUGUST ACCORDS
1. Acceptance of free trade unions independent of the Communist Party and of enterprises, in accordance with convention No.
87 of the International Labor Organization concerning the right
to form free trade unions, which was ratied by the Communist
Government of Poland.
2. A guarantee of the right to strike and of the security of strikers and those aiding them.
3. Compliance with the constitutional guarantee of freedom of
speech, the press and publication, including freedom for independent publishers, and the availability of the mass media to
representatives of all faiths.
4. A return of former rights to: 1) People dismissed from work
after the 1970 and 1976 strikes, and 2) Students expelled from
school because of their views. The release of all political prisoners, among them Edward Zadrozynski, Jan Kozlowski, and Marek
Kozlowski. A halt in repression of the individual because of personal conviction.
5. Availability to the mass media of information about the formation of the Inter-factory Strike Committee and publication
of its demands.
6. The undertaking of actions aimed at bringing the country
out of its crisis situation by the following means: a) making
public complete information about the social-economic situation, and b) enabling all sectors and social classes to take part
in discussion of the reform programme.
7. Compensation of all workers taking part in the strike for the
period of the strike, with vacation pay from the Central Council
of Trade Unions.
8. An increase in the base pay of each worker by 2,000 zoty a
month as compensation for the recent raise in prices.
9. Guaranteed automatic increases in pay on the basis of increases in prices and the decline in real income.
10. A full supply of food products for the domestic market, with
exports limited to surpluses.
11. The abolition of commercial prices and of other sales for
hard currency in special shops.
12. The selection of management personnel on the basis of
qualications, not party membership. Privileges of the secret
police, regular police and party apparatus are to be eliminated
by equalizing family subsidies, abolishing special stores, etc.
13. The introduction of food coupons for meat and meat products (during the period in which control of the market situation
is regained).
14. Reduction in the age for retirement for women to 50 and for
men to 55, or after 30 years employment in Poland for women
and 35 years for men, regardless of age.
15. Conformity of old-age pensions and annuities with what
has actually been paid in.
16. Improvements in the working conditions of the health service to insure full medical care for workers.
17. Assurances of a reasonable number of places in day-care
centers and kindergartens for the children of working mothers.
18. Paid maternity leave for three years.
19. A decrease in the waiting period for apartments.
20. An increase in the commuters allowance to 100 zoty from
40, with a supplemental benet on separation.
21. A day of rest on Saturday. Workers in the brigade system or
round-the-clock jobs are to be compensated for the loss of free
Saturdays with an increased leave or other paid time o.
11
Solidarity
LECH WASA
Credited as the driving force behind the Solidarity
movement, as well as the man who revived a postcommunist Poland, Lech Walesa remains, for many, the
public face of Poland, as well as Gdasks most famous
resident.
Born on September 23, 1943 Walesas early life was
largely anonymous. Working in his early days as a
mechanic it was only in 1967 when he began work
at Gdansks Lenin Shipyards that he began his rise to
prominence. A keen trade unionist he frequently found
himself in trouble with the authorities, and his political
activities led to a stint in prison that ultimately cost him
his job.
In 1980, with the shipyards on strike, an unemployed
Walesa scaled a wall, gave an impromptu speech and
found himself thrust into the spotlight as the accidental
hero of the protests. Having successfully led negotiations for workers rights it was he who signed the August Accords of 1980. Ear-marked by the government
as an undesirable inuence he was immediately placed
under arrest when martial law was announced in 1981.
Released a year later, Walesas actions and those he
represented were recognised in 1983 when he was
awarded the Nobel Peace Prize.
As the gurehead of the Solidarity movement, and with
the communist state crumbling, Walesa led roundtable
talks with the government to formulate a power-sharing scheme. Partly free elections in 1989 led to blanket
wins for Solidarity, signalling the last days of communism.
In 1990 he became Polands rst democratically elected, post-communist president, a position he held until
1995. Respected and admired as an opposition leader,
Walesa saw his popularity seriously wane while in
power. Many Poles began to consider his blunt speaking, lack of English and often poor use of Polish as not
betting a head of state. He was famously quoted as
having told the British Queen that the bed he had slept
in at Buckingham Palace had been so big that hed had
diculty nding his wife. Mr. Walesa and his wife have
eight children.
Mr Walesa was voted out of oce in 1995 beaten by
Aleksander Kwasniewski, who although being a former Communist, was seen as a better representative
abroad. Many of Mr. Walesas generation accused him
of having failed to deliver on many of his promises,
having stolen the glory for the peoples revolution and
even having worked for the secret services under communism. However in recent years Mr. Walesas popularity appears to have begun to grow again with a certain
fondness for him becoming visible particularly from the
younger generations.
Since his political retirement he spends his days often
lecturing abroad speaking on subjects close to his
heart: democracy, civil liberty and the free market.
Solidarity
WHAT TO SEE
There are a number of sights connected with the strikes
of 1980 and the Solidarity movement, most of which are
within a short distance of the shipyards.
HISTORICAL GATE #2 OF THE GDANSK SHIPYARD
The #2 gate of the Gdansk Shipyards is where Lech Walesa
stood to announce to the waiting crowds the deal that had
been struck with the Communist government in 1980. The
image of the gate decked in owers and images of Pope
John Paul II is one of the most enduring of that era and the
gate has since been listed as an historical monument. Even
today youll still see owers placed here alongside the picture of the Pope. The gate was the scene of clashes in 2012
when the Lenin Shipyard name was put back over the entrance as part of the making of Andrzej Wajdas lm Walesa,
when protestors covered it in red paint.Q B-1 ul. Doki 1.
JAN III SOBIESKI MONUMENT
A large bronze statue built in 1897 in memory of the Polish king who reigned in the 17th century and famously
defeated the Turks at the gates of Vienna; thereby saving
Europe from the Ottoman hordes. Originally displayed in
Lviv, the monument was moved to Warsaw in 1950 before
nally being shifted to Gdask in 1965. During martial
law the monument became the starting point for several demonstrations and marches.QB-3, Targ Drzewny,
Gdansk.
ROADS TO AGREEMENT EXHIBITION
The BHP (the Health and Safety organisation building) hall
in the shipyards is where the meetings during August 1980
strikes took place and where the landmark August Accords
were signed. After modernisation it is possible to visit the
hall which now house a small exhibition entitled Roads to
Agreement which shows images from the era as well as
Communist era signs and Solidarity ags and banners. There
is also a recreation of the long table where Government representatives and Solidarity leaders led by Lech Walesa signed
the historic agreement. Today the hall is again used for discussions and conferences set against this historic backdrop.
QB-1, ul. Doki 1, 131A, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 308 42 24,
www.salabhp.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission free.
ST. BRIDGETS CHURCH
The parish church of the Gdansk Shipyards, the parish at
St. Bridgets dates back to the late 14th century although
the church was only rebuilt in 1973, and was home to the
controversial anti-communist parish priest Father Henryk Jankowski. Father Jankowski was a strong critic of the
communist regime and a strong supporter of the strikers
particularly during the strikes when he would hold mass
each morning in the yards. The church is an interesting stop
as there a number of artefacts and memorials relating to
Solidarnosc and youll also nd a statue to the late Father
Jankowski who died in 2010.QC-2/3, ul. Profesorska 17,
Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 31 52, www.brygida.gdansk.
pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. No visiting during mass please.
ROADS TO FREEDOM EXHIBITION

The Roads to Freedom exhibition is a place that should feature highly on every visitors itinerary. Charting the course of
events from 1945 till 1989, not just in Poland but throughout
the Communist Bloc, this subterranean exhibition does an
excellent job of explaining the meteoric rise and subsequent
consequences of the Solidarity phenomena. For those old
enough to remember the period it will bring back peculiar
memories of a time when the world was eectively split in
two and when images of Poland were nearly always in black
and white. For those too young to remember, the divisions
and social conict of the period will surprise and shock particularly when you realise that you are standing close to the
epicentre of the place where the divisions began to be torn
down - not by guns and bullets but by the will of the people.
The exhibition is a fascinating look at what went on before, during and after the key 1980 strikes. You are drawn along through
the early protests against totalitarian rule (Poznan and Budapest
1956, Prague 1968, Gdynia and Gdansk 1970) to the sacking
of crane operator Anna Walatynowicz in 1980 which sparked
the strike in Gdansk. You get to experience the rabble-rousing
speeches and strike anthems; the victory - the rst peaceful victory over the communist authorities; the previously undreamt
of freedoms and then the sledgehammer of Martial Law.
Found via a street level entrance next to which youll see a
communist era Militia vehicle, the exhibition is well worth
an hour or so of your time and worth catching here before
it is closes, sometime in August, ahead of the opening of
the new permanent exhibition in the European Solidarity Centre.QB-1, ul. Way Piastowskie 24, Gdask, tel.
(+48) 58 308 44 28, www.ecs.gda.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 6/4z, Wed 2z, groups over 10
people 3z per person, family ticket 10z. Y
MONUMENT OF THE FALLEN SHIPYARD WORKERS
Lying right outside famous gate no. 2 to the Gdansk Shipyards (formally the Lenin Shipyards) the monument was
unveiled in 1980 to commemorate the events of 1970
when 45 people died during street riots protesting against
the communist regime.
Along with wage demands and the right to form free trade
unions, the right to erect this memorial was one of Solidaritys main demands during the 1980 lock-in. The 42-metre,
139-tonne steel sculpture stands on the spot where the
rst three victims of the 1970 riots were killed. There are
three crosses to represent the three victims and the crosses
themselves signify the suering and sacrice of all the protesters. At the top you see anchors signifying the mens profession and in the lower reaches the gures of their struggling comrades are depicted.
Solidarity leader Lech Walesa referred to this enormous
steel structure as a harpoon driven through the body of
a whale. No matter how hard the whale struggles, it can
never get rid of it.
The monument is marked by a poignant inscription by
Czesaw Miosz: You who have harmed simple man, mocking him with your laughter, you kill him, someone else will
be born, and your deeds and words will be written down.
QB-1, Pl. Solidarnoci, Gdask.
JANEK WISNIEWSKI
It was not by accident that the strikers of 1980 confronted the authorities not face-on but instead by
locking themselves into the Lenin Shipyards. Lessons
from unrest in 1970 had been learnt and the leaders of the strikes realised that public demonstrations
were likely to be met with the full-force of the States
security apparatus. This is exactly what had happened
in Gdynia in December 1970 when shipyard workers
from there (along with workers from Szczecin, Elblag
and Gdansk) demonstrated against sudden price rises
and food shortages. The authorities, conscious of the
potential of a full-out workers revolt reacted by sending in armed units of army and militia who opened re
on the protesting workers. Exact numbers of dead and
wounded are unclear but it is thought that over 40
people were killed in the wave of protests including
one young man who would become known as Janek
Winiewski.
Protestors carried Winiewskis body through the
streets of Gdynia on a door and this image was to become one of the most striking of the decades of unrest
in Poland. The young man had been shot 3 times and
his blood-stained body was to become a symbol representing all of the victims of this unrest. The body was
actually that of an 18-year old man named Zbigniew
Godlewski from nearby Elblag who was employed
in the shipyards in Gdynia. At the time the body was
being carried through the streets people were still
unclear as to his true identity and a local songwriter,
Krzysztof Dowigao, penned a ballad to this unknown
victim whom he named with a common name - Janek
Winiewski. The ballad became a popular protest song
and the young man became a legend.
The body of the young man was originally buried
in Gdansk Oliwa before his family managed to get
it moved to his home-town of Elblag. After the fall
of communism streets in both Gdynia and Gdansk
were renamed after the ctional character of Janek
Winiewski while streets in his hometown of Elblag and
Zielona Gora, where he spent his childhood holidays,
were renamed after the real person of Zbigniew Godlewski. The story of Winiewski was told in the 1981
lm Man of Iron and the events are also retold in the
2011 lm Czarny czwartek (Black Thursday).
The last verse of the Ballad of Janek Winiewski gives
you an idea of the power of the ballad inspired by this
young man from Elblag.
Dont cry mothers, it wasnt for naught
Theres a ag with black ribbon over the shipyard
For bread and freedom, and a new Poland
Janek Winiewski fell
13
Arrival & Transport

ARRIVING BY PLANE
GDANSK LECH WALESA AIRPORT
(PORT LOTNICZY IM. LECHA WASY)
Port Lotniczy Gdask im. Lecha Wasy (aka Gdansk
Lech Walesa airport much to the sanguine of some local
Polish language experts) is 8km west of Gdask centre
in the Rbiechowo district. The airport has expanded
rapidly in recent years and 2015 will see the new direct
train link added. The centrepiece of the re-development
is the new terminal 2 which handles all departures. Terminal 1 has been modernised and handles all arrivals.
The arrivals hall has a Gdask Tourist Organisation information point, some less than competitive currency
exchange desks, car rental desks and ATM machines.
GETTING TO GDASK
A taxi from the rank in front of the terminal will cost you
about 60z. Remember that taxis cost more at night and
from Saturday at 22:00 until Monday at 06:00. Neptun
Taxi is the ocial taxi rm and can be trusted. Look
out for their cars with the 19686 logo on the side. Be
suspicious if oered a lift by any car not bearing their
logo. The cheapest option is to take bus N210 towards
Orunia, ul. Gocinna to get to the main Gdask Gwny
train station or bus N110 to Gdask Wrzeszcz train station. Journey time is 30 to 40 minutes and the bus stop
is to the left of the exit next to the new terminal. The
journey requires a one-ride ticket which costs 3z and
is available from the machine at the bus stop (which
accepts payment cards). Alternatively buy a one-hour
ticket from the driver for 3.60z.
GETTING TO SOPOT
There are no buses directly to Sopot so the most direct
option by public transport is to take the N110 bus to
Gdask Wrzeszcz station. From there take the local yellow and blue SKM commuter train from platform 1. Youll
need to get on a train running in the direction of Gdynia
and boards on the platform show the time until the next
train. Sopot (the train station is in the middle of the town)
is the sixth stop from Gdask Wrzeszcz. The most direct
way to reach Sopot is by taking a 19686 Neptun Taxi
from outside the terminal building which will cost you
around 70z normally and more at night and on Sundays.
GETTING TO GDYNIA
By public transport you can take the bus N110 to
Gdask Wrzeszcz railway station before boarding a local
yellow and blue SKM train to Gdynia Gwna. Alternatively there is bus N4A which runs to Gdynia. Tickets
for this route are only available from the driver and cost
4.60zl for an hour ticket. The most direct way is by taxi
and a 19686 taxi will cost you around 120z to the centre of Gdynia with prices higher at nights and on Sundays.Qul. Sowackiego 200, Gdask (Rbiechowo),
tel. (+48) 58 348 11 63, www.airport.gdansk.pl.
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
ARRIVING BY BUS
The city is connected to all major cities in Poland with travel

times subject to both delay and improvement as a major
investment programme continues.
GDASK GWNY BUS STATION

Most national and international buses arrive at Gdask bus
station (Dworzec PKS), up on the hill just behind the train
station (Dworzec PKP). Give the main building, one of the
decreasing number of remnants from the Peoples Republic,
a quick glance then head downstairs to the bus station hall.
From there take the escalator down to the underground
passage and follow the signs Centrum or Dworzec PKP. Walk
through the passage past all the kiosks selling slippers and
mobile phones until you see the EMPiK bookshop in front of
you. Turn right and go up the steps to ul. Podwale Grodzkie
and the old town lies about a 5 minute walk from there.QA2, ul. 3 Maja 12, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 302 15 32, www.
pks.gdansk.pl. Open 08:30 - 17:00, Sat 08:30 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. Note that on the first two and last two working days of each month the office is open 06:30 - 18:30.
GDASK GWNY TRAIN STATION

When you arrive at Gdask Gwny you are a stones throw
away from Gdask Old Town. The building has been renovated and is now a much cleaner and fresher smelling
place than before. Youll nd lockers, toilets, money exchange and McDonalds and KFC either in or next to the
station.QA-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 1, Gdask, tel. (+48)
22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.
pl. Open 24hrs.
GDYNIA GWNA TRAIN STATION
The main railway station, built in the modernist style between the wars, has received a well-needed facelift. The city
centre is signposted with the main street, ul. witojaska,
a 10 minute walk away by turning right out of the station
and following ul. 10-go Lutego.QN-1, Pl. Konstytucji 1,
Gdynia, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile
phones), www.pkp.pl. Ticket office open 24hrs.
SOPOT TRAIN STATION
QL-4, ul. Marynarzy, Sopot, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from
foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Ticket office open
06:00 - 21:30.
ARRIVING BY CAR
There are three main routes into the Tri-city: the E28 from
the west via Gdynia; the E77 from the south-east which enters the city via Gdansk and the A1 highway from the south.
ARRIVING BY CAR IN GDASK
Parking is available once you arrive in Gdask but remember that the old town area is permit parking only and you
will be ned by the city police for driving into the old town
without a pass. Watch out for the signs marking the start of
the permit parking zone. You will have to use street parking
which is paid for (3z for the rst hour) and you will need to
buy a ticket at the street machine.
ARRIVING BY CAR IN GDYNIA
If you are coming from the south you will need to negotiate the
other two cities rst. This is best done by use of the Obwodnica
(ring road) which will get you to the centre of Gdynia in about
20 minutes. Gdynia itself is the best laid out of the 3 cities in
terms of cars but even parking here is a challenge these days.
ARRIVING BY CAR IN SOPOT
Whether you are arriving from the south (Gdask) or the north
(Gdynia) you are very likely to make the approach to Sopot via
the main Al. Niepodlegoci road. Sopot city centre is quite
small and, particularly during the summer months, the centre
is snarled up with trac. There is street parking if you can nd
it with the area closest to the centre subject to parking tickets.
GDYNIA GWNA BUS STATION

(GDYNIA GWNA DWORZEC AUTOBUSOWY)
With no stand alone bus station in Gdynia buses and coaches use the area outside the main train station as their terminus. You can get to the main street, ul. witojaska by
following ul.10-go Lutego, a walk that will take you about 10
minutes.QN-1, Pl. Konstytucji 1, Gdynia, www.pksw.pl.

ARRIVING BY FERRY
GDASK - NOWY PORT FERRY PORT
Polferries from Nynashamn, 60km south of Stockholm, arrive in Gdasks Nowy Port, about 7km north of the centre.
Ferries run every two or three days so the terminal is often
deserted. Bus N148 leaves from outside the main ferry
terminal and takes you to Gdask abianka train station.
From here take an SKM train to Gdask Gwny. Alternatively, a taxi ride into the centre of Gdask costs about 25z.
If you have a car then you should follow signs to centrum, a
journey that will take you about 15-30 minutes depending
on the time of day.QH-1, ul. Przemysowa 1, Gdask, tel.
(+48) 58 343 18 87, www.polferries.pl. Open only before
ferry sailings.
STENA LINE FERRY TERMINAL
Stena Line ferries from Karlskrona, 500km south of Stockholm, arrive at the Gdynia ferry terminal. There is a currency
exchange in the terminal. From Gdynia ferry terminal, take
buses N 150 or 4F to Gdynia Gwna, the main train station in Gdynia (from where there are commuter trains to
Gdask). A bus ticket costs 3z (4z for the faster 4F), and
a taxi to the centre should come to around 20z. If arriving
by car you should follow the signs for Centrum which will
bring you to the centre of Gdynia in about 10 minutes.Qul.
Kwiatkowskiego 60, Gdynia (Obue), tel. (+48) 58 660
92 00, www.stenaline.pl. Open 06:30 - 21:00; Mon, Fri
08:00 - 19:30; Sat 06:30 - 09:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 06:30 09:00, 16:00 - 21:00. From November open 07:00 - 21:00;
Mon, Fri 08:00 - 19:30; Sat 07:00 - 09:00, 17:00 - 21:00,
Sun 07:00 - 09:00, 16:00 - 21:00. Y
www.travelgdansk.pl
WE OFFER:
Transport of passengers (airport, ferry and hotels)
Free hotel booking, Air Tickets
Trips to Malbork, Stutthof, etc.
We work with Postolowo Golf Club and Sand Valley Golf Club
Arrival & Transport
Arrival & Transport

BY CAR
SPECIAL WEEKEND
OFFER FOR YOUR
CAR RENTAL.
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ECONOMY CLASS CAR, UNLIMITED MILAGE.
CONTACT:
tel: +48 22 572 65 65
www.avis.pl
CAR RENTAL
Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road fatalities,

a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of using the roads here. While the issue of poor roads is being addressed the sheer size of the network means this is
still a problem particularly when travelling outside of and
not between major cities. The biggest problem though is
dangerous drivers resulting in the common sight of mangled wreckages of cars around the country. Yes, the crosses
you see beside roadsides are there to mark fatal crashes.
While we do not advise against driving in Poland, where
new roads and driver education programmes are making
driving here less fraught, we do wish to make a number of
points clear to the foreign driver.
Firstly when driving outside of built-up areas you will often
nd yourself sharing a single lane road with anything from
a sports car convertible to a tiny 900cc banger. Throw in the
huge eet of lorries that traverse Poland and you will commonly nd yourself in a situation where trac is blocked
behind said lorries/banger. This results in frustrated/impatient drivers overtaking each other at high speed and then
braking sharply to avoid oncoming trac. Be warned and
keep a safe distance between you and the vehicle in front.
Secondly beware of the hard shoulders of these roads, the
vast majority of which are unlit at night. These are often
used as pavements by local people who add to the Russian
roulette by venturing out at night wearing their darkest
clothing. Add in the odd drunk on a bike and these hard
shoulders become a very real problem when facing a set of
headlights bearing down on your vehicle.
For those brave enough to venture out the following information should be noted. Poland has strong drink-driving laws:
0.2 is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about
having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home
driving licenses as long as they are valid, however citizens of
countries that didnt ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will nd their licenses invalid (though that
hasnt stopped anyone we know from driving their girlfriends
car). Carry your license and passport at all times when driving
and make sure you have the cars documentation with you.
The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between
23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/
hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. All
cars are required to carry a red warning triangle, rst aid kit,
replacement bulbs and a national identity sticker. It is compulsory to have headlights switched on at all times.
GUARDED PARKINGQL-4, ul. Chopina 8, Sopot.
PRIVATE TRANSPORT
Also at Gdask, ul. Podwale

Grodzkie 9 (Scandic Hotel)
Qul. Sowackiego 210 (Airport), Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 348 12 89, www.avis.pl.
Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Y
JOVI TRANSPORT
Professional airport/rail transfer to anywhere in the city.
Most convenient probably if you are staying in one of their
range of apartments. Prices are 80zl one-way or 120zl return. You can book direct online via their website.Qtel.
(+48) 797 60 11 00, www.joviapartments.com.
Europcar is one of
the biggest car rental
companies oering
many rental options (both short and long term) that will
suit all needs (8 dierent categories of cars are available)
Europcar delivers excellence in services and benets
that are tailored to full your specic requirements.Qul.
Sowackiego 206 (Airport), Gdask, tel. (+48) 665 30
16 24, www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:30.
MPA POLAND
Transport arranged for groups and individuals.Qtel. (+48)
500 18 03 44, www.mpapoland.pl.
A wide range of cars from

the Ford Fiesta to the spacious Mercedes E220 CDi
station wagon. Satellite navigation systems also available. Special rates oered for orders through Joka website.QB-2, ul. Way Piastowskie 1/1502A, Gdask, tel.
(+48) 609 23 54 24, www.joka.com.pl. Open 09:00 17:00; Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Outside of these
hours open by prior arrangement.
TRAVEL GDANSK
A local company oeing chauer driven car and mini-van
services. As well as taking you to and from the airport/port,
Travel Gdansk can also transport you to places like Malbork,
Frombork, Stutthof and Szymbark (amongst other destinations) or arrange accompanied tours for you.Qtel. (+48)
510 31 30 31, www.travelgdansk.pl.
TRIP2GDANSK
A eet of 6-seater Chrysler minibuses available for private
hire manned by friendly, trustworthy drivers. Good value
for a group needing airport transfer, private tours to places
such as Malbork, Stutthof or Kashubia or transport to one
of the citys attractions such as the golf course or go-karting
track. Prices available upon request.Qtel. (+48) 533 53 30
33, www.trip2gdansk.pl.
GUARDED PARKINGQO-1, ul. Armii Krajowej 22

(Gdynia Hotel), Gdynia.
GUARDED PARKINGQB-4, ul. w. Ducha (near
Wybrzee Theatre), Gdask.
GUARDED PARKINGGuarded underground parking
at the Krewetka Cinema City complex opposite the train
station.QB-2, ul. Karmelicka 1, Gdask.
GUARDED PARKINGQD-5, ul. Pszenna 1 (across
from Novotel Hotel), Gdask.
17
Arrival & Transport

PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Travelling between the three cities of Gdask, Gdynia and
Sopot is a cinch, and best done using the SKM kolejka
(commuter train). These yellow and blue trains run more
or less every 10-15 minutes between 05:00-19:00 through
the Tri-city and less frequently outside of these hours with
trains also running occasionally between 00:00 and 04:00.
Tickets can be bought from modern ticket machines which
can be found on most platforms and have instructions in
English and a couple of other languages. Alternatively you
can buy tickets in main stations where you see the sign for
Kasa Biletowa or as a last resort from the conductor at the
front of the train. If you buy tickets from the Kasa Biletowa
make sure that you stamp them with the time in the bright
yellow boxes on or close to the platform to validate them.
Ticket prices are dependent on the number of stops you
are travelling but a journey from Gdask to Gdynia will cost
5.70z and take about 35 minutes (Sopot will cost 3.80z
and take about 20 minutes). Bikes travel for free and should
be carried in a specially marked carriage usually at one end
of the train. Children under 4 travel for free although you
also have to buy a 0z ticket (we kid you not) and you are
likely to be requested to provide proof of the childs age
so basically keep passports on you at all times. ISIC cards
will get you a student discount but only if youre a Polish
student, while Euro 26 cards are not valid. You will have to
pay a ne if caught travelling without a validated ticket by
one of the plain clothes inspectors.
Trolleybuses, trams and local buses (ZKM/ZTM) can
also zip you around the relevant cities. Tickets are issued
by Gdask and Gdynia. Gdask tickets allow you to travel in
Gdask (and Sopot) and Gdynia tickets allow you to travel
in Gdynia (and Sopot). If buying a ticket in Sopot you will
need to buy a ticket for the direction you are heading i.e.
Gdask or Gdynia. Ticket prices. Single - 3.00z, 60 minute
ticket - 3.60z, Single ticket for use on a fast line - 4.00z,
60 minute ticket for fast lines - 4.60z, 24-hour ticket - 12z
Tickets can be bought from kiosks or an increasing number
of ticket machines which have English and German language options.
If youre planning on staying longer then there is the Metropolitan ticket which gives you travel in the cities for 24
hours - the rst type covers SKM local trains and then buses,
trolleybuses and trams in EITHER Gdansk or Gdynia and
costs 17z (8.50z reduced) or a second version which is all
travel in all 3 cities at 20/10z. These are available from SKM
and ZTM points not the machines.
A recommended way to avoid having to decide on which
ticket and then having to negotiate how to get it with the
woman in the kiosk is to pick up a Gdask - Sopot - Gdynia
Plus tourist card. As well as the discounts and free entry to
many of the sights that the card brings, you will also be entitled to free travel on the whole Tri-city transport network.
Pick it up at the tourist information points around the city.
Arrival & Transport

National trains and buses
If you are looking to travel out of the city you will need to
use the national PKP (trains) or PKS (bus) services. For trains
you nd arrival (Przyjazdy) and departure (Odjazdy) times
marked on a board in the main station building with the
timetables displayed on A1 size cards (departures on a yellow card and arrivals on a white card). Main line train services
run from all three stations in the Tri-city as well as Gdansk-Oliwa and Gdansk-Wrzeszcz. Regional and national bus services
(such as services to Frombork) run from Gdansk Bus Station
which you will nd perched on the hill overlooking the train
station.The bus station can be reached via the tunnel entered
via the stairs outside the main train station and KFC.
GDASK GWNY BUS STATION
QA-2, ul. 3 Maja 12, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 302 15 32,
www.pks.gdansk.pl. Open 08:30 - 17:00, Sat 08:30 16:00. Closed Sun. Note that on the first two and last
two working days of each month the office is open
06:30 - 18:30.
GDASK GWNY TRAIN STATION
Tickets for international routes can now be purchased from
all ticket desks.QA-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 1, Gdask, tel.
(+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.
pkp.pl. Open 24hrs.
TAXIS
Although most taxis are now trustworthy with honest meters, there are still certain drivers who will quite happily take
advantage of your ignorance and overcharge for journeys.
To guard against this ensure that you use a taxi which is
clearly marked. The rms listed below are all reliable with
Neptun being the only rm allowed to sit outside of the
airport terminal building. Look out for 19686 on the sides
of their cabs. Taxis are slightly cheaper if called in advance.
If calling one of the abbreviated numbers such as 19686
please be aware that you may need to prex it with 58 if
calling from your mobile.
HALLO TAXI (GDASK)
Qtel. (+48) 58 301 59 59, www.hallotaxi.gda.pl.
MONTE TAXI (SOPOT)
Qtel. (+48) 58 555 14 14, www.montetaxi.pl.
NEPTUN TAXI (GDASK)
The only sanctioned rm at the airport with some Englishspeaking operators. Mini-vans are also available and if you
are planning a journey outside of the city special rates are
available for places such as Stutthof, Malbork and Frombork.Qtel. (+48) 58 511 15 55, www.neptuntaxi.pl. Y
NON-STOP TAXI (GDYNIA)
Qtel. (+48) 58 625 01 01.
SUPER HALLO TAXI (GDASK)
Qtel. (+48) 602 31 91 91, www.superhallo.pl.
BY FERRY
Water trams (basically ferries) sail during the summer season departing the stop in front of the Hilton in Gdansk;
the end of the pier in Sopot; and the quayside near the
museum ships in Gdynia. Tickets for the Gdansk-Hel ferry
involve a 500m round-trip walk to the inconsiderate ferry
companys ticket booth next to the Green Gate. In Sopot
tickets can be bought from the ticket oces at the end of
the pier and from the ticket oce close to the Blyskawica
battleship in Gdynia. Tickets for ferries F5 and F6 can only
be bought on-board. Note that on routes F1, F2 and TLZ
there is only one GUARANTEED sailing a day. The others
(marked R) are subject to demand.
WATER TRAM F1
Direct sailing from Gdansk to Hel everyday until August
31.QD-3, Nabrzee Motawy (Baszta abd), Gdask,
tel. (+48) 662 15 73 40, www.zegluga.pl. Ticket office
open 07:30 - 18:00. Tickets can be purchased from the
ticket office (closed 14:00 - 15:00) on the lower quayside
near the (C/D-5) Green Gate and cost 35/25z. Bikes 5z.
WATER TRAM F2
Direct sailing from Sopot to Hel everyday until August
31. Youll rather disappointingly have to buy a pier ticket
separately just to get to the ferry itself.QM-4, Molo (Pier),
Sopot, tel. (+48) 606 68 63 06, www.zegluga.pl. Ticket
office on pier open 09:30-12:30 and 13:30-18:30. Tickets 35/25zl. Bike 5zl. Children under 4 travel for free but
youll need to take a 0zl ticket for them.
WATER TRAM F5
The F5 water tram runs daily from the old town stopping
at a number of places on its way to Westerplatte. If you are
looking to travel out to the Twierdza Wisoujcie fort or the
remains of the garrison at Westerplatte and the historic
Nowy Port Lighthouse opposite, this is the water tram for
you and is cheaper than the pirate ship and tourist cruises
which also travel to these destinations. You should board
the water tram at the stop in front of the Hilton hotel at Targ
Rybny. QB-6, Targ Rybny (Baszta abd), Gdask, www.
ztm.gda.pl. Tickets cost 10/5z regardless of how many
stops you travel and can be bought on-board.
WATER TRAM F6
The F6 travels to the National Sailing Centre at the mouth of
the Vistula (Wisa) river. Worth noting as the last two stops
are for the beach.QD-3, Targ Rybny (Baszta abd),
Gdask, www.ztm.gda.pl. Tickets cost 10/5z regardless
of how many stops you travel and can be bought onboard.
TANIE LINIE EGLUGOWE
Direct sailing from Gdynia to Hel every day until August 31.
Each sailing requires a minimum number of passengers
in order to sail.QO-1, Nabrzee Pomorskie, Gdynia, tel.
(+48) 58 620 26 42, www.zegluga.pl. Tickets 35/25z.
Bike 5z.
WATER TRAM F1
From Gdask
To Gdask
Dep. Arr.
Destination Dep.
Arr.
08:30 10:20
HEL (R)
10:50
12:40
13:10 15:00
(R) HEL
15:30
17:20
17:50 19:40
(R) HEL (R)
20:10
22:00
Service runs everyday until August 31.
WATER TRAM F2
From Sopot
To Sopot
Dep. Arr.
Destination Dep.
11:00 12:30
HEL (R)
09:00
15:00 16:30
(R) HEL (R)
13:00
19:00 20:30
(R) HEL
17:00
Service runs everyday until August 31.
Arr.
10:30
14:30
18:30
WATER TRAM F5
From Targ Rybny
To Targ Rybny
Dep. Arr.
Destination
Dep. Arr.
09:53 10:49 WESTERPLATTE 11:15 12:10
12:58 13:54 WESTERPLATTE 14:47 15:42
16:28 17:24 WESTERPLATTE 17:50 18:45
Service runs everyday until September 30.
WATER TRAM F6
From Targ Rybny
To Targ Rybny
Dep. Arr.
Destination
Dep. Arr.
10:00 11:17
N.S.C.
11:20 12:37
13:10 14:27
N.S.C.
15:15 16:00
16:35 17:52
N.S.C.
17:55 19:12
Service runs everyday until September 30.
TANIE LINIE EGLUGOWE

From Gdynia
To Gdynia
Dep. Arr.
Destination
Dep. Arr.
10:00 11:00
HEL (R)*
11:30 12:30
13:00 14:00
(R) HEL*
15:00 16:00
16:30 17:30
(R) HEL (R)*
19:00 20:00
10:00 11:00
HEL**
15:00 16:00
* Runs everyday until August 31.
** Runs everyday in September only.
19
City Basics
City Basics
FACTS & FIGURES
MARKET VALUES
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers and
is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the
Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea
(528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km),
Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian
exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and,
Ukraine (529km).
Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite

increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices. Market values as of July 23, 2014
based on 1 = 4.10z
Longest River
The river Vistula (Wisa) is Polands longest river at
1,047km and ows through Krakw and Warsaw before
reaching the Bay of Gdask (Zatoka Gdaska). Gdask
sits on the Motawa river which reaches the Baltic via
the Martwa Wisa.
Highest Point
The highest peak in the country is Rysy (2,499m above
sea level) which can be found in the Tatry mountains in
the south of the country.
Population (2013)
Poland - 38,502,396
Warsaw - 1,718,219
Krakw - 758,940
d - 715,360
Wrocaw - 631,263
Pozna - 549,082
Gdask - 460,815
Katowice - 305,995
Sopot - 38,014
Local Time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When its 12:00 in Warsaw its 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish
summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last
Sundays of March and October.
HEALTH & EMERGENCY

In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or
public payphone should use the following numbers: 999
for an ambulance, 998 for the re brigade and 997 for the
police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded
to the relevant department. English speaking assistance is
not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic capabilities of the call operator.
English, German and Russian speakers have the option
of using separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: dial +48 608 599 999 or + 48 22 278
77 77. Both numbers can be reached from a mobile
phone or a land line and are hotlines in case you run
into any troubles during your stay. The lines are active
year round with later hours during the high-tourist
season.
McDonald's Big Mac

Snickers
0.5ltr vodka (shop)
0.5ltr beer (shop)
0.5ltr beer (bar)
Loaf of white bread
20 Marlboros
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98)
Local transport ticket (1 journey)
9.50 z
1.69 z
25.99 z
2.99 z
8.00 z
2.49 z
14.70 z
5.51 z
3.00 z
2.32
0.41
6.34
0.73
1.95
0.61
3.59
1.34
0.73
Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates,

of which a comprehensive list can be found in the directory section. If youve run out of money, however, then silly
you. No embassy will bail you out, and your hopes will rest
on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks and many
exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out for anywhere displaying the
Western Union logo.
For a list of clinics and hospitals check the directory section
at the back of this guide.
INTERNET
JAZZ N JAVA
QB-4, ul. Tkacka 17/18, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 305 36 16.
Open 10:00 - 22:00.
WEBSITES
QN-3, ul. witojaska 135, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 662 33
10. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.
LAW & ORDER

In general Gdansk is safer than most cities. Petty crime does
exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets
working tram and bus routes by the train station. If youre
out keep your wallet inside your pocket, not inside a jacket
casually lying around. Those travelling by car are advised to
use a guarded car park. Avoid being ripped o by opportunistic taxi gits by using clearly marked cabs. Areas to be
particularly careful in are the Lakowa and Biskupia Gora districts. While we wouldnt wish to insult the local residents
these districts are rather rundown and not particularly well
lit in places.
Staying on the right side of the law is signicantly easier for
tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket
fuel and drink accordingly. If youre determined to make an
idiot of yourself then make sure its not in front of the law.
Those who do may well visit Gdasks premier drunk tank
(ul. 3 Maja 6), a chastening experience that while no longer
costing you 250zl is still designed to make you regret your
excess imbibing.
The other well-known ways tourists can cross cops is by
jaywalking. Youll undoubtedly be surprised to see a crowd
of people standing obediently at a crossing; this peculiarity
has extra eect if you are aware of how little Poles respect
the rules of the road in a vehicle. Local police will quite
freely give you a 100z ne for crossing at a place where
no crossing is marked or when the light is red. And dont
think you are exempt by being a visitor; In fact your nonresidency means you will need to pay the ne on the spot
(the helpful chaps will even accept foreign currency).
MONEY
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the
100z notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops,
newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional fast food
franchise and bar, will refuse to break a large note for you.
As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for such
moments. Notes come in denominations of 200, 100, 50,
20 and 10 zotys, and there are 1, 2 and 5 zoty coins. One
zoty equals 100 groszy which come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and
50 groszy coins.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor and you
will also be able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using your ATM card. A Kantor will often provide better value
than the banks in your home country or the ATM although
for obvious reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports,
bus stations and close to tourist sights. Shopping around
will reward you with the best rate. Prices for food, drink,
cultural venues and transport still remain comparatively
cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the theatre
or cinema will rarely cost more than 20z while admission
to most museums costs around 5-10z.
RELIGION
For over one thousand years has been a bulwark of Catholicism, ghting against the horrors of pagan invasions and
looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national
unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century,
many turned to the church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope
John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles,
and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the
West can understand. Many Poles genuinely believe that
John Paul II single-handedly started the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe. Small wonder then,
that your average Pole takes Catholicism very seriously.
Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may
nd the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at rst, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from
time to time and the droves that ock to mass.
LANGUAGE SMARTS
Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many Poles,
particularly young people, have a healthy command of the
English language. Though you can probably get by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will nonetheless
smooth your time in Tri-city and may even win you friends
and admirers.
On the downside, Polish is ocially recognised as one of
the most dicult languages for native English speakers to
learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in
Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced.
This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each
letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent
the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words
and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!
Basic Pronunciation
sounds like on in the French bon
sounds like en as in the French bien
is an open o sound like oo in boot
c like the ts in bits
j like the y in yeah
w is pronounced like the English v
like the w in win
like the ny in canyon
cz and like the ch in beach
dz like the ds in beds
rz and like the su in treasure
sz and like the sh in ship
drz like the g in George
r is always rolled
Polish Words & Phrases

Yes
No
Hi/Bye (informal)
Hello/Good day (formal)
Good evening (formal)
Good-bye
Good Night
Please
Thank you
Excuse me/Sorry
Tak
Nie
Cze
Dzie dobry
Dobry wieczr
Do widzenia
Dobranoc
Prosz
Dzikuj
Przepraszam
(Tahk)
(Nyeh)
(Cheshch)
(Jen doh-bri)
(Doh-bri vyeh-choor)
(Doh veet-zen-ya)
(Doh-brah-noats)
(Prosheh)
(Jen-koo-yeh)
(Psheh-prasham)
My name is...
Im from England.
Do you speak English?
I dont speak Polish.
I dont understand.
Two beers, please.
Cheers!
Where are the toilets?
You are beautiful.
I love you.
Please take me home.
Call me!
Mam na imi...
Jestem z Anglii
Czy mwisz po angielsku?
Nie mwi po polsku.
Nie rozumiem.
Dwa piwa prosz.
Na zdrowie!
Gdzie s toalety?
Jeste pikna.
Kocham ci.
Prosz zabierz mnie
do domu.
Zadzwo do mnie!
(Mam nah ee-myeh)

(Yehstem zanglee)
(Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?)
(Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)
(Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)
(Dvah peevah prosheh.)
(Nah zdrovyeh!)
(Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)
(Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)
(Ko-hahm chuh.)
(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh
doh-moo.)
(Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)
Airport
Train station
Bus station
One ticket to
Lotnisko
Dworzec PKP
Dworzec PKS
Jeden bilet do
(Lot-nees-ko)
(Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)
(Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess)
(Yeh-den bee-let doh)
21
Basic History
Basic History
impose a third partition of Poland, ending Polish independence for more than a
century and wiping the country from the
map completely.
Now a bustling conurbation known locally as Trojmiasto

(Tri-city), each of the individual members has its own specific history. While colonisation in the Gdask area dates back
to the 7th century when it was a small group of shing hamlets, Gdynias history was changed dramatically as a result
of the Treaty of Versailles less than one hundred years ago.
10th Century The rst Christian mission comes to the
small shing village of Gdask. The Bishop of Prague, Adalbert, christens the inhabitants with the year 997 commonly
accepted as the year that Gdask was founded.
13th Century Gdask welcomes vessels from England, Sweden and the Walloon Lands. The Teutonic Knights penetrate
Polish regions from the west in 1226. Gdynia is rst mentioned
under the name Gdina as a shing village in 1253. The bishops
document which mentions it says that it belonged to Oksywie,
the oldest settlement in the area dating from the rst half of
the 8th century. Today Oksywie is a part of Gdynia.
Although human settlement in what is now Sopot can be
traced back over 2,500 years and a fort is known to have existed between the 7th and 11th centuries, it isnt until the
13th century that the rst recorded mention of Sopot can
be found.
14th Century The Teutonic Knights make a treacherous assault on Gdask in 1308. The Knights also crown Malbork,
60km south, the capital of their Teutonic state. In 1361
Gdask joins the Hanseatic League, a mercantile organisation, and its sea port prospers.
15th Century Polish-Lithuanian forces defeat the Teutonic
Knights at the Battle of Grunwald in 1410, thereby stopping
German expansion eastward. As a result of the Second Peace
of Torun in 1466, Sopot becomes part of the Polish state.
16th century Gdask enjoys a golden era, prospering into
a rich seaport and important centre of trade and culture.
Besides Germans, Gdasks ethnic make-up is predominantly Polish, Dutch, Russian and Jewish, as well as a large
number of Scotsmen.
18th Century Poland becomes a playground for Tsar Peter
the Great, and in 1734 Gdask is besieged by the Russian
army. The siege sees the village of Gdynia burned to the
ground and Sopot seriously damaged. In 1772 Austria,
Prussia and Russia impose the rst partition of Poland and
the whole area becomes part of Prussia. Gdask, now Danzig, loses its trade routes and falls into decline. A PrussianRussian agreement on the second partition of Poland is
concluded in 1793. In 1795 Austria, Prussia and Russia
19th Century Napoleons advance eastwards sees Gdask established as a free

city, with French troops stationed there.
After Napoleons defeat and the Congress of Vienna in
1815, Poland is partitioned anew: Danzig (Gdask), Zoppot
(Sopot) and Gdingen (Gdynia) are given back to Prussia. In
1819 Carl Christoph Wegner makes the rst attempt to turn
Zoppot into a seaside resort by building a bath-house and
changing rooms but the venture fails. At this time there are
23 houses in Zoppot and a population of 350. In 1823 Jean
Georges Haner, a doctor in Napoleons army, starts the
building of a seaside resort by building the Zoppot Therapeutic House, wooden baths and the beginnings of the
pier. With the opening of a Danzig Kslin (Koszalin) train
line in 1870, which is then extended to Berlin, Zoppot becomes more accessible to holidaymakers. The town quickly
grows into an elegant resort and records visitor numbers of
nearly 12,500 people by 1900. In 1871 the area is ocially
incorporated into the German Empire. In 1877 the Zoppot
council purchase the bathing houses from Haners heirs
and build a second bathing house and extend the pier to
85 metres.
20th Century The Kaiser, Wilhelm II, grants Zoppot city
rights on the 8th of October 1901, while neighbouring
Gdingen develops as a small seaside resort centred around
what is today ul. witojaska, Pl. Kaszubski, ul Portowa and
ul. Starowiejska.
In the days before WWI, Zoppots population has increased
to 17,400 people and visitor numbers have reached 20,000
annually. On 11th November 1918 with Imperial Germany
defeated, the partition collapses and Poland regains independence giving birth to what is regarded as the Second
Polish Republic. Danzig is caught in a tug of war between
Germany and Poland who turn to the League of Nations to
decide on control. With the majority of the citys inhabitants considered to be of German origin but with a nancially ruined Germany in no state to provide for them plus
the worries of the western powers that Poland might fall
under the inuence of Bolshevik Russia, a compromise is
hashed together which sees the creation of The Free City of
Danzig. Formerly established on January 10, 1920 the city
incorporates Danzig, Zoppot (but not Gdingen) as well as
a large part of the surrounding area and sees the creation
of a separate parliament, currency and postal stamps. With
Zoppot incorporated into the Free City of Danzig its northern border becomes the border between the Free City and
the newly reborn Polish state. The Therapeutic House is
converted into a casino.
The Treaty of Versailles changes Gdynia forever though.
Poland is awarded access to the sea via a narrow strip of
land which is to become infamously known as the Polish
corridor. Gdingen, now renamed Gdynia nds itself sat at
the top of this corridor.
1920s The Polish Parliament passes a bill about the building of a major port facility at Gdynia on September 23
1922. The village expands rapidly as workers from all over
Poland are brought in to help with the construction. The
rst part of the port is opened by the Polish president
Stanisaw Wojciechowski on April 29 1923 while August
13 of that year sees the rst ship, the French ship Kentucky, enter the port. Gdynia is granted city rights on
February 10 1926 and at this point has 12,000 residents.
The pier in Sopot is extended to its current length of 512
metres in 1928 and becomes the longest wooden pier in
Europe.
1970s The events of 1970 in Gdask and Gdynia are the

rst to rock the system. In December shipyard workers
strike to protest poor living standards. The army intervene
on December 17 and open re on the protestors, resulting
in clashes in which 44 are estimated to have died. Events
on this day will have profound eects on workers for many
years to come. This is also the year that West German chancellor Willy Brandt formally renounces German territorial
claims to Danzig/Gdansk. Opposition to the government
grows throughout the 1970s although the country is lifted
by the 1978 selection of Krakow Cardinal Karol Wojtya as
Pope.
1930s The Tri-city area prospers but the rise of Adolf Hitler soon sees the government of the Free City of Danzig
come under the control of the Nazis. Tensions rise both
within the Free City and over the border in neighbouring
Poland. In 1939, WWII starts with Nazi Germanys September 1 attack on Polands military posts on Westerplatte as
Hitler invades to re-incorporate Danzig to the German
Reich.
1980s A general strike is called in August 1980 by the

edgling Solidarno (Solidarity) trade union, led by shipyard electrician Lech Wasa. After an 18 day sit-in protest, the government gives in and agrees to the strikers
21 demands. These include the creation of the rst free
trade unions in the Communist Bloc and marks the rst
peaceful resolution of grievances. The peace is shattered
however by the introduction of Martial Law on December
13, 1981. Solidarno is outlawed by the government and
its leadership imprisoned. Other union activists are driven
underground. In protest, more than 20,000 Gdask citizens
take sanctuary in St. Marys Church. In 1983 Martial Law is
lifted and Lech Wasa is awarded the Nobel Peace Prize.
The late 1980s see a period of gradual liberalisation due in
part to Soviet President Mikhail Gorbachevs perestroika
in the Soviet Union. Renewed strikes in 1988 and a failing
economy convince Polish leader General Wojciech Jaruzelski to initiate talks with Solidarno. In 1989 Round Table
talks produce a formula for power sharing between the
Communists and Solidarno. Partly-free elections result in
sweeping Solidarno victories and the communist regime
crumbles.
1940s From 1940-44 all Polish territory falls under Nazi occupation and becomes its primary killing ground. Six million Poles, including three million Jews, are killed. Although
most of Free City Danzigs pre-war Jewish population managed to escape in time to avoid the Holocaust, much of the
citys Polish intelligentsia is rounded up and murdered in
the nearby Stuttho death camp. By the outbreak of war
Gdynia has rapidly grown to the 6th largest city in Poland
with a population of over 120,000 people. September 1 19
sees a heroic defence of the city but eventual defeat sees
Nazi Germany occupy Gdynia, incorporate it to the German
Reich, rename it Gotenhafen and expel the local population.
On March 23rd 1945 the Red Army enters Zoppot and the
German population is driven out, in some cases literally into
the sea. Around 10% of the city is destroyed with the most
serious damage in the baths/casino area. On March 28,
1945, the Soviets seize Danzig, now a smouldering mass of
rubble while Gdynia is liberated by Poles ghting alongside
the Red Army.
From 1945 onwards Poland is Sovietised. Control of the
area is given to Poland and the cities are renamed with their
Polish names. Most Germans are exiled westward, replaced
by refugees from east Poland. In 1947 the Communists
consolidate political monopoly after rigged elections.The
1950s and 1960s mark a time of major urban rebuilding in
Gdansk following the large-scale wartime destruction of
the city.
1950s In 1953 Gdynia is connected to Gdask via the SKM
light railway system, while in 1955 the Warsaw Pact is created with Poland a member. In 1961 the rst Sopot International Song Festival is held, a festival which goes onto to
become a huge televised event in the Soviet bloc countries
and still attracts big names every year.
1990s Following Solidarnos victory in 1989 the new

Finance Minister, Leszek Balcerowicz, launches an ambitious shock-therapy economic reform programme and
Lech Wasa becomes Polands rst democratically-elected,
post-communist President. In 1995 former communist,
Aleksander Kwaniewski, defeats Wasa in presidential
elections. The following year the Gdask shipyards are declared bankrupt. In 1999 Poland joins NATO.
2000 onwards On May 1, 2004 Poland enters the European Union, while on April 2, 2005, the widely admired and
respected Pope John Paul II passes away. 2007 sees Civic
Platform (PO) defeat Law & Justice (PiS) at the polls which
results in local boy Donald Tusk becoming Prime Minister.
April 10, 2010 sees 96 high-ranking Poles tragically killed in
the air disaster at Smolesk in Russia. Among the dead are
President Lech Kaczyski and his wife along with a number of well-known Gdanskians including Solidaritys Anna
Walentynowicz, Senator Maciej Payski and MP Arkadiusz Rybicki whose funerals take place in various old town
churches. In the summer of 2012, Poland successfully cohosts the Euro 2012 football tournament with neighbouring Ukraine.
23
Culture & Events
Culture & Events

PHILHARMONIC STAGES
THE POLISH BALTIC PHILHARMONIC
QD-3, ul. Oowianka 1, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 320 62 62,
www.filharmonia.gda.pl. Tickets 10-100z. Box office
open 10:30 - 18:00, Tue 09:30 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 4 hours
before the performance. Closed Mon.
THE SOPOT POLISH CHAMBER PHILHARMONIC
CONCERT HALL
QL-4, ul. Moniuszki 12, Sopot (Forest Opera), tel. (+48)
58 555 84 21, www.pfksopot.pl. Tickets available at BART
box office, (Sopot, ul. Kociuszki 61, L-5; open 10:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun) and Forest Opera box office (Sopot, ul. Stanisawa Moniuszki 12, L-4; open 10:00 - 20:00).
THEATRE STAGES
CITY THEATRE
QN-2, ul. Bema 26, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 660 59 22,
www.teatrgombrowicza.art.pl. Box office open 11:00 19:00; Sat, Sun 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Autumn season starts on September 27. Tickets 25-60z.
TWO WINDOWS THEATRE (TEATR W OKNIE)
QC-4, ul. Duga 50/51, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 322 04 14,
www.teatrwoknie.pl.
Pho
h too byy SSta
t nis
n aw
w K
K osi
os n
CONCERTS
ART GALLERIES
CULTURAL CENTRES
GNTER GRASS GALLERY IN GDASK

QC-4, ul. Szeroka 34/35-37, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 304
98 54, www.ggm.gda.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00; Tue, Wed
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
BALTIC CULTURAL CENTRE

QB-3, ul. Korzenna 33/35, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 10
51, www.nck.org.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00.
THE GDASK CITY GALLERY 1

QC-5, ul. Piwna 27-29, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 682 00 93,
www.ggm.gda.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00; Tue, Wed 11:00 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
THE GDASK CITY GALLERY 2
QC-5, ul. Powronicza 13/15, 16/17; Gdask, tel. (+48)
58 305 70 35, www.ggm.gda.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00; Tue,
Wed 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
CINEMAS
MULTIKINO
QO-1, ul. Waszyngtona 21, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 765
96 10, www.multikino.pl. Box office open 15 minutes before first showtime to 15 minutes after last
showtime. Tickets 17-29z. Also at M-4, ul. Bohaterw
Monte Cassino 63, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 765 94 10, www.
multikino.pl. Box office open 15 minutes before the
first showtime to 15 minutes after the last showtime.
Tickets 21-29z.
CENTRE FOR CONTEMPORARY ART ANIA

QK-4, ul. Jaskcza 1, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 305 40 50,
www.laznia.pl. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 7/5z. Wed free. Y
KLUB AK
QE-4, Al. Grunwaldzka 195/197, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58
344 05 73, www.klubzak.com.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00; Fri,
Sat 16:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00. Admission price depends on the event. U
WYSPA INSTITUTE OF ARTQI-3, ul. Doki 1/145 b,
Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 718 44 46, www.wyspa.art.pl.
Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
OPERA STAGES
STATE BALTIC OPERA
QG-3, Al. Zwycistwa 15, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 763 49
13, www.operabaltycka.pl. Full schedule available at
www.operabaltycka.pl. Box office open from August 18:
12:00 - 19:00, Sat 14:00 - 19:00, Sun 2 hours before performance. Closed Mon. Tickets 20-70z. Y
19.08 TUESDAY
JUSTIN TIMBERLAKE
Timberlake is bringing sexy back to Gdask, presumably
along with an ample amount of hair gel. Its been years
since N Sync, but whos counting; the singer-songwriter,
actor, producer, businessman, philanthropist (oh, my) went
on to spawn four platinum and multi-platinum albums,
win nine Grammys, four Emmys, and marry Jessica Biel, and
hes still only 33.QPGE Arena, ul. Pokole Lechii Gdask
1, Gdask, www.imprezyprestige.com. Concert starts
at 20:00. Tickets 150-450z. VIP ticket 850z. Available
at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Gdask, ul. Podwale
Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00).
EXHIBITIONS
16.03 SUNDAY - 22.09 MONDAY
FOLLOWING THE KANUN. ALBANIAN CULTURE
IN MULTI-ETHNIC KOSOVO
The exhibition examines how the Kanun (a set of traditional
Albanian laws) still aect daily life today in terms of hospitality, religious tolerance, honour and gender roles and it
looks at issues of multiculturalism, tradition, and modern
ethnic identity in Kosovo.QE-1, Ethnographic Museum,
ul. Cystersw 19 (Oliwa Park), Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 552
12 71 ext. 101, www.mng.gda.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00,Thu
12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. From September open 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon.Last entrance 45 minutes before
closing. Admission 8/4z, family ticket 15z.
25
Culture & Events

STATE ART GALLERY
QM-4, Pl. Zdrojowy 2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 06 21,
www.pgs.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. From September
21 open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing. Admission 10/7z.
13.06 FRIDAY - 17.08 SUNDAY
HASIOR, KENAR, RZSA. ZAKOPANE IN SOPOT
Three outstanding Zakopane artists are coming to Sopot - or at least their works are. See Kenars subtle but
characteristic sculptures, Hasiors dark and macabre assemblages, and Rzsas unmistakable wooden works.
Around 100 pieces will be on show.
19.06 THURSDAY - 21.09 SUNDAY
IVAN AIVAZOVSKY
Marine and Armenian artists are all the rage in the Tri-City
now, if current exhibitions are any indication. RussianArmenian painter Aivazovsky was known for his works
depicting the sea - and he created some 6000 of those
during his life. Make sure to supplement this experience
with a visit to the Teodor Axentowicz exhibition.
TEODOR AXENTOWICZ - POLISH-ARMENIAN
Somewhat forgotten Polish-Armenian painter Teodor
Axentowicz is most famous for his portraits of women
and scenes of Hutsul life in the Carpathian Mountains.
He also paid homage to his Armenian roots in paintings
such as The Baptism of Armenia (1900) and Armenians in
Poland (1930). This exhibition looks not only at the artists works, but at Polish-Armenian relations in general.
GNTER GRASS GALLERY

WITH BEST REGARDS FROM WISAWA
SZYMBORSKA AND HERTA MLLER
What is up with these
ridiculously successful
multi-talented people?
Not only was Grass a
writer, artist, and Nobel
Prize winner, Szymborska and Mller were
all those things as well.
Whether or not youre
familiar with the prose
and poetry of these two
women, youre welcome
to acquaint yourself with
collages they produced in their time o from writing.
QC-4, Gnter Grass Gallery in Gdask, ul. Szeroka
34/35-37, tel. (+48) 58 304 98 54, www.ggm.gda.pl.
Open 11:00 - 19:00; Tue, Wed 11:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Admission free.
Culture & Events

01.07 TUESDAY - 31.08 SUNDAY
MARIAN MOKWAS TURKISH WEDDINGS
Polish maritime artist Marian Mokwa lived to a ripe old age
of 98, and he spent over 60 of those years painting, leaving behind an impressive 6000 oil and watercolor works
(thats right, thats an average of one hundred per year!).
When he was in Turkey a few years prior to WWI, he decided to wed himself to the sea, and make her his muse
and subject - and so he did.QE-1, Museum of Modern
Art, ul. Cystersw 18 (Oliwa Park), Gdask, tel. (+48)
58 552 12 71 ext. 124, www.mng.gda.pl. Open 10:00 17:00,Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. From September
open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. From October open
09:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last
entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 10/6z,
family ticket 18z.
SOLIDARITY OF ARTS
SOLIDARITY OF ARTS
Solidarity of Arts is in its sixth year now! Cultural institutions from Pomerania are working together with the
City of Gdask, the Polish Film Institute, the European
Solidarity Centre, the Polish Baltic Philharmonic, and
the Ministry of Culture and National Heritage to bring
noteworthy art events to the TriCity.
The programme includes:
Friday, August 8:
19:00 at Artus Court, Dugi Targ 44 (C-5):
Neptunes, the award ceremony thats become an
indispensable part of Solidarity of the Arts. This years
laureates, chosen for their contributions to culture and
the citys image, are writer Stefan Chwin, documentary
lmmaker Andrzej Fidyk, and actress Halina SojewskaKoodziej. The Anna Faber Trio will be responsible for
the music.
27.07 SUNDAY - 14.09 SUNDAY

GDASK AND WHEREABOUTS 17931914
See 19th-century Gdask (or shall we say Danzig?) immortalized in 350 drawings and prints from the collections of
the National Museum and the Gdask Library of the Polish Academy of Sciences - many of which have not been
shown to the general public before.QC-5, Green Gate,
Dugi Targ 24, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 307 59 12 ext. 102,
www.mng.gda.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last
entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 10/6z,
family ticket 18z.
FESTIVALS
Gdansk
Biennale
of Art
Gdansk City Gallery
annouces:
/ to 1 . 0 9 open call
/ 3 . 1 0 opening
/ 2 3 . 1 1 closing
+ awards ceremony
w w w. g g m . gd a . p l
03.08 SUNDAY - 10.08 SUNDAY

SOPOT CLASSIC
Four concerts will make up this years Sopot Classic festival,
starting with Beethovens Night on August 3rd at the Forest Opera. Warsaw Autumn in Sopot will follow on August
6th at the Concert Hall of the Polish Chamber Philharmonic
Orchestra (Forest Opera); Classical Inspirations (Mozart and
Haydn) will take place at St. Georges Church, Kociuszki 1,
on August 8th; and the festival will come to a close with
the Final Concert at the Star of the Sea Church, Kociuszki
19, on August 10th.Qwww.sopotclassic.pl. All concerts
start at 20:00. Tickets 10-40z. Available at Forest Opera
box office (Sopot, ul. Stanisawa Moniuszki 12, L-4; open
10:00 - 20:00).
27.09 SATURDAY - 05.10 SUNDAY
SHAKESPEARE FESTIVAL
The Shakespeare Festival is taking place a bit later in the
year this time around - and thats because the Gdask
Shakespeare Theatre is nally getting a building, and its
opening on September 19th! Starting this year, most of
the festival performances will take place on home turf,
so to say, but thats the only major change; you can expect the usual generous selection of plays, including the
2014 Golden Yorick recipient.QB-5, Gdask, The Gdask
Shakespeare Theatre, ul. Bogusawskiego 1, www.
shakespearefestival.pl. Full schedule and ticket prices
undecided at press time.
Saturday, August 16:

21:00 at the Polish Baltic Philharmonics Field Scene,
Oowianka Island, ul. Oowianka 1 (D-3):
Esperanza+: this large jazz
spectacle will be hosted by
three-time Grammy Award
winner Esperanza Spalding. Whats with the plus?
The math symbol encompasses all of Esperanzas
guests, who will include
Herbie Hancock, Milton
Nascimento, Wayne Shorter, Marcus Miller, and Terri
Lyne Carrington, among
others. Free entry unless
you want to be in the Golden Circle - that is, real close
to the stages. In that case its still only 5z. Venue opens
at 19:00.
Sunday, September 24:
19:00 at the Polish Baltic Philharmonic, ul. Oowianka
1 (D-3):
United in Music, a concert in honor of Polands
troubled eastern neighbor. It has been 23 years since
Ukraine has gained independence, and 20 years since
Ukraines consulate opened in Gdask - and in light
of recent events, it is important to remember and respect those dates. The programme comprises pieces
by Skoryk, Chopin, Ravel, and Grecki, and Ukrainian
soprano Yaryna Rak will be the guest of honor.Qwww.
solidarityofarts.pl. Tickets available at Empik (ul.
Podwale Grodzkie 8, Gdask, B-2; open 09:00 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00).
27
Culture & Events
Culture & Events

ARTLOOP
MOZARTIANA

ARTLOOP FESTIVAL
Artloop seems to have moved successfully out of beta
phase without zzling out - this is year three for the
contemporary art festival. The 2014 theme of Relaxation and Recreation might not be as intriguing as last
years (Exploring and Eliminating Deciencies), but who
gives a hoot? Its summer at the Polish shore, so some
unwinding is in order. The festival will again be divided
into a number of sections. Artloop also works together
with Grolsch ArtBoom Festival in Krakw, creating additional special projects.Qwww.artloop.pl. Portishead
concert tickets 200-350z. Available at www.ebilet.pl
and Empik (Sopot, ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 63,
M-4; open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
MISC. EVENTS
ORGAN MUSIC FESTIVAL
01.07 TUESDAY - 26.08 TUESDAY
57TH INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF ORGAN
MUSIC IN OLIWA
Head over to the solemn
but beautiful interior of
the Oliwa Cathedral for
a truly aesthetic musical
experience. The International Festival of Organ
Music has been bringing skilled musicians and timeless pieces to the Tri-City
for an impressive 57 years, with undiminished interest
from the public. This years opening concert will be Sir
Andrzej Panufniks Metasinfonia for Organ, Timpani, and
Strings performed by Roman Perucki and the Symphonic Orchestra of the Polish Baltic Philharmonic in honour
of the composers 100th birthday anniversary; 15 other
concerts will follow, performed by musicians from all
over Europe.QE-1, Oliwa Cathedral, ul. Biskupa Edmunda Nowickiego 5, Gdask, www.filharmonia.
gda.pl. Concert takes place every Tue and Fri (apart
from August 15) at 20:00. Tickets 12-45z. Available at
The Polish Baltic Philharmonic box office (open 10:30
- 18:00, Tue 09:30 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 4 hours before performance. Closed Mon) and before the event.
26.07 SATURDAY - 17.08 SUNDAY

ST. DOMINICS FAIR (JARMARK DOMINIKA)
St. Dominics Fair is on par with Weihnachtsmarkt and Oktoberfest when it comes to both size and visibility. The festival
dates all the way back to 1260, when it was established by
Pope Alexander IVth, the good old days when a fair could
persuade you to attend a pardon mass and cut your stay in
purgatory by a whopping 100 days.
The modern version pays a lot of mind to Medieval traditions with salesmen from the whole Pomerania area coming to sell their produce mainly along ul. Szeroka and ul.
Mariacka, C-3 with the streets around Targ Rybny, D-3 full of
antiques and collectors items. Its a colourful aair and well
worth checking out. Though nowadays you cant count on
Teutonic Knights to crash the party, you can still buy obscene amounts of amber jewellery, regional arts, sausage,
and lard as well as the odd bit of Nazi memorabilia discovered by bounty hunters who are still digging up badges
and the like to this day.
Lasting for three weeks this is the biggest event in the
Gdansk cultural calendar and attracts over 6 million visitors
annually. The highlight of this years event will be a London
Eye style Ferris wheel with 42 air-conditioned cabins taking
people up to a height of 55 metres above the ground. Youll
nd a detailed programme of events at the stands of the
event organisers QGdask, Main City (Gwne Miasto),
tel. (+48) 58 554 92 00, www.jarmarkdominika.pl/en/.
Admission free.
17.08 SUNDAY - 23.08 SATURDAY

Mozartiana is a festival dedicated to Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Polish and international musicians perform
a series of concerts, both ticketed and free.
FESTIVAL INAUGURATION:
Artus Court, Long Market (Targ Dugi) 43/44
Sunday, 17.08. at 19:00: Mozart and His Teachers, performed by Musica Fiorita led by Daniela Dolci
TICKETED CONCERTS:
Uphagen House, ul. Duga 12
Monday, 19.08. at 19:00: Chamber Mozart by Janusz
Wawrowski and Grzegorz Skrobiski
Tuesday, August 19 at 19:00: Mozart Has More Than One
Name - Music by Leopold, Wolfgang Amadeus, and Franz
Xaver Mozart.
Abbots Palace Courtyard, Oliwa Park
Wednesday, 20.08. at 19:30: Symphonic Mozart by Shirley Brill (Israel), Polish Chamber Philharmonic in Sopot,
and Sergio Cardenas (Mexico)
OUTDOOR CONCERTS FREE ADMISSION:
Oliwa Park
Wednesday, 20.08.
21:15, Southern facade of Abbots Palace: musical fountain show
21:30, Abbots Palace courtyard: Jazz Mozart by Wodek
Pawlik Trio
Thursday, 21.08.
16:30, Clearing behind the coach house in Oliwa Park:
Mozart for Children
19:00, Abbots Palace courtyard: W. A. Mozart Don
Giovanni, performed by Italian soloists and Polish Baltic
Philharmonic with Massimiliano Caldi
21:15, Southern facade of Abbots Palace: musical fountain show
22:00, Abbots Palace courtyard: Think Mozart Jazzin by
Michele Di Toro (Italy)
Friday, 22.08.
16:30, Clearing behind the coach house in Oliwa Park:
Mozart for Children
18:30, Abbots Palace courtyard: Symphonic Mozart
by Yuko Kawai (Japan) and the National Philharmonic
Chamber Orchestra led by Jan Lewtak
20:00, Oliwa Cathedral: Concert organised with the Polish Baltic Philharmonic as part of the 57th International
Organ Music Festival
21:15, Southern facade of the Abbots Palace: musical
fountain show
22:00, Abbots Palace courtyard: concert by Prusinowski
Trio and Mateusz Pospieszalski
GRAND FINALE CONCERT:
Saturday, 23.08. at 21:00, Oliwa Cathedral: performance
by four foreign soloists, the Polish Chamber Choir,
Akademie fr Alte Musik Berlin, and Jan ukaszewski.
Qwww.mozartiana.pl. Check website for ticket info.
29
Restaurants
Restaurants
SYMBOL KEY
G No smoking
T Child-friendly
6 Animal friendly
N Credit cards not accepted
B Outside seating U Facilities for the disabled

S Take away
X Smoking room available
V Home delivery
W Wi- connection
E Live music
Y Tourist card
AMERICAN
The wa
w ter
erfro
fronnt in
fro
i Gda
Gd sk
on a war
warm evening
Dining in the Tri-city continues to improve and there are

now some genuinely top-class restaurants while the overall
standard continues to rise. The gures in brackets denote
the approximate price of the cheapest and dearest main
course on the menu. The opening hours we list are exible
and are rough guidelines as to when you can expect the
chef to be working. If business is slow people will have no
qualms about shutting early.
Service in general has improved, although it can still be
annoying slow. Also beware of using thank you when paying
for your bill. This is often taken to mean Keep the change.
With the number of bars and restaurants ever increasing the
following is a list of places, which in our opinion are worthy of
our recommendation (to go or to stay away from). For more
reviews check out our website at gdansk.inyourpocket.com.
In the meantime here are some tips depending on what
youre looking for.
LOCAL
Check out the local Gdansk cuisine in Gdanska or try
Metamorfoza for a modern take on traditional local
dishes. If its pierogi you want then Pierogarnia U
Dzika. Karczma Zagroda is probably our favourite
place for fortifying plates of meat and veg. Goldwasser
is one of our favourites with great food and a view over the
river from their terrace. Check out their collectable sets of
Goldwasser liquer. Were by the sea so local also typically
means sh. The best place to try some will be Targ Rybny
or Tawerna.
CHEAP
The legendary Bar Pod Ryb does an excellent line in
baked potatoes served with a wide choice of toppings
while we love Nalesnikowo for pancakes and crepes.
Alternatively take a step back in time and eat in one of the
Milk Bars where basic and very cheap food is served up
in a pre-1989 atmosphere. Its Tesoro Express for the
best pizza in Sopot while Greenways popularity with the
local student community should be all the reference you
need there.
BILLYS AMERICAN RESTAURANT

Of all the burgers places in town this would win the award
for appearance thanks to the 50s American diner decor, red
bow tied waitsta and window onto the sparkling kitchen.
A clearly designed menu including pictures and allergy
warnings and cheerful waiters plus its waterfront location
even had us thinking of the Miami Beach Johnny Rockets.
Early teething problems now addressed this is a great stop if
only burgers, ribs or wings and the like will do.QD-3/4, ul.
Warzywnicza 10 a-e (entrance from ul. Dugie Pobrzee),
Gdask, tel. (+48) 606 92 99 25, www.billys.com.pl.
Open 10:00 - 24:00. (19-75z). T6UGBSW
HARD ROCK CAFE

The arrival of Hard Rock Cafe on the square really heralds
Gdansk entering a new era in its development - whether
you like the international chain or not. The menu is instantly familiar as are the range of clothes and souvenirs
in the adjacent shop. What isnt so familiar is the cheerful nothings too much of a problem service although
we fear that might tail o seriously once the New Store
Opening team return to their home towns of Lisbon, Amsterdam and Johannesburg. Those fears aside, HRC look
to be onto a winner thanks to the location and a tried and
tested menu of burgers, wings and cocktails which you
can stu yourself with while picturing how thin Mick Jagger must be to get into that jacket.QC-5, ul. Dugi Targ
35-38, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 535 77 04, www.hardrock.
com/cafes/gdansk. Open 10:00 - 02:00. (37-79z).
TUGBW
PUB CHARLIE
A pub like no other. First o, theres a golf simulator (book
ahead), secondly, some top notch American eats which
are good enough to see this place landing a mention in
our restaurant section. A better burger you wont nd in
Sopot, and this being a hotel bar you can also expect it
to arrive promptly and without incident.QM-3, ul. Haffnera 59 (Hotel Haffner), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 98 16,
www.hotelhaffner.pl. Open 15:00 - 24:00. (16-59z).
TUGSW
COUPLES
Cyrano et Roxane is good for low key trysts with an
owner who will make you feel very important. Along
the seafront is Bulaj which serves excellent sh, among
other dishes, in a wooden beach house among the sand
dunes. On a warm evening a stroll back to town along
the beach can feel very romantic. Not just for couples but
Filharmonia is probably the citys standout restaurant
both for food and wonderful views from their terrace.
Gdynia is able to boast one of the best restaurants in all
three cities these days thanks to Sztuczka. Bring your
better half here to impress with food and service.
SPLURGE
Prices are still competitive compared to Scandinavia and
Western Europe so nowhere is going to have you seeing stars.
For a special occasion visit the citys most historic restaurant
in the former Der Lachs distillery, where Lech Walesa takes
his foreign guests - Pod Lososiem. Art Deco in the Sotel
has supreme sea views while you can enjoy a top class meal
in quiet surroundings at Tusta Kaczka.
31
Restaurants
ACROSS THE WATER
NEW
NEIGHBOURS KITCHEN
A friendly little restobar with a menu consisting of
soups, salads and ten mains is chalked up on a wall
size blackboard under which is a serving hatch through
which you can see the chefs preparing your order.
These boys are doing a great job and the burger, pasta
dish featuring shrimp and shrimp and the chicken options all got a resounding thumbs up. A great place for
lunch while you use their wi to catch up away from
the hustle and bustle of the opposite riverbank.Q D-5,
ul Szafarnia 11/U12, Gdask, tel. (+48) 500 16 27 56.
Open 07:30 - 22:00. (13-59z). 6UGBSW
NOVA PIEROGOVA
This place has impressed quickly with its range of traditional Polish pierogi (lled dough pockets) with a
creative list of llings which sees the cuisine of India
and Mexico collide headlong with that of Poland. The
menu claims the Russian pierogi (cheese lled) are the
most popular in Poland although wed argue with that
(surely its cabbage and mushroom) and recommend
you try the Mexican which were excellent.QD-4, ul.
Szafarnia 6, Gdask, tel. (+48) 516 41 42 00. Open
12:00 - 22:00. (15-27z). 6GBS
NEW
RESTAURACJA RITZ
A keenly awaited opening from the winner of Poland's
rst series of Masterchef, we can't tell you what the food
is like because there were one hour waiting times when
we visited (and the garden outside and half the restaurant were empty).We don't want to tell someone who's
won a television cooking show how to run a business
but maybe a smaller premises might have been a good
idea while the chef practises cooking more than one
amazing meal at a time. We'll give it another go before
the next issue. QD-4, ul. Szafarnia 6, Gdask, tel. (+48)
58 742 01 74, www.restauracja-ritz.pl. Open 13:00 22:00. Closed Mon. (49-82z). T6UGBW
NEW
SZAFARNIA 10
This is one of the best new restaurants of 2014. The design is smart with a large terrace overlooking Granary
Island with the wonderful backdrop of old town Gdansk.
The chefs in the open kitchen have prepared a completely original menu and these are supplemented by equally
original daily specials. The cod on a bed of rice with green
beans was the tastiest sh dish weve tried this summer
while the sorbet ice cream dessert was quite remarkable
and this was one place where the service enhanced not
sullied the experience. Recommended particularly on a
warm evening as a great place to relax and kick back.
QD-5, ul. Szafarnia 10, tel. (+48) 533 87 40 06. Open
08:00 - 23:00. (25-90z). UGBSW
Restaurants
BREAKFAST
BAYJONN/THAI THAI
Breakfast served in the Bayjonn hotel overlooking the
square but provided by the excellent Thai Thai. Available is
a wider than normal buet choice of hot and cold dishes.
QM-4, ul. Powstacw Warszawy 7, Sopot, tel. (+48)
58 551 11 00, www.thaithai.pl. Breakfast served 07:00 10:30. Breakfast 39.50z.
CHWILA
A variety of breakfasts on oer including French toast,
toasted sandwiches and even a tuna and pasta option.
QN-1, ul. wietojaska 30 (Infobox), Gdynia, tel. (+48)
58 623 34 69, www.chwilamoment.com.pl. Breakfast
served 08:00 - 20:00. (10-15z).
F.MINGA
Available are 4 breakfast sets: sweet, salty (featuring
scrambled eggs), crispy panini and with smoked salmon.
QO-2, Bulwar Nadmorski, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 501 61 52
18. Breakfast served 10:00 - 12:00. (21-24z).
GOLDWASSER
A choice of four breakfast sets - English, French, Continental
and the Royal Polish Breakfast, served in the pleasant surroundings of the Goldwasser restaurant on the waterfront.
QD-4, ul. Dugie Pobrzee 22, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301
88 78, www.goldwasser.pl. Open 08:00 - 12:00. (3040z). TGBS
KAVA
A friendly little cafe/bar at the bottom of Monte Cassino serving scrambled eggs, croissants and the like from early morning.QM-4, ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 61, Sopot, tel.
(+48) 784 51 48 13. Open 07:00 - 02:00. (15-25z). GB
LOOKIER CAFE & RESTAURANT
Scrambled eggs, omelettes, breakfast sets (bread, cheese,
ham etc.) and our favourite - 4 dierent types of breakfast
sandwich with our favourite being the American which
comes with bacon and egg.QC-4, ul. Duga 39, Gdask,
tel. (+48) 514 92 59 39, www.lookiercafe.pl. Breakfast
served 07:00 - 23:00. (9-22z). 6GBSW
PATIO ESPAOL
A relatively wide choice for breakfast. There is a variety of
egg dishes on oer including a Spanish omelette (naturally) and scrambled eggs with extras such as potato, onion,
Chorizo sausage. Theres pancakes for those with a sweeter
tooth and larger sets for those with a larger appetite.QC-4,
ul. Tandeta 1 (entrance on ul. Szeroka), Gdask, tel. (+48)
58 573 34 11, www.patioespanol.pl. Breakfast served
08:00 - 12:00. (10-35z). TUNGSW
Full contents available online:

MILK BARS
Dont expect a gastronomic experience. Do expect a rare
insight into Eastern-Bloc Poland. Subsidised by the state,
this was food for the masses back in the day. With the fall of
communism many bar mleczny found themselves forced
out of business and the survivors, aside from oering an interesting diversion for amateur anthropologists, they make
it possible to eat lots in return for a handful of coins.
BAR MLECZNY NEPTUN
The most famous milk bar in town, and as such expect it
to be rammed with pensioners, builders and weird backpackers queueing for pork chops and mashed cabbage.
Get there early as variety diminishes quickly.QC-4/5, ul.
Duga 33/34, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 49 88, www.
barneptun.pl. Open 07:30 - 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 19:00. From September open 07:30 - 19:00; Sat, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. (4-17z). TGSW
BAR BURSZTYN
A modern milk bar which has managed to retain the key
elements which made them so successful in their prime
- value for money and price. The traditional favourites are
here like pork cutlet in breadcrumbs, chicken in sauce
(various) with a choice of boiled vegetables, fries and surowka (shredded cabbage and carrot). The 12zl lunch deal
(main course, surowka and drink) has the place packed
out most days with the prices ensuring returning trade

despite the stressed out service and cold veg. With all the
eort put into modernising the concept its good to see
this nod to tradition.QM-5, ul. Grunwaldzka 78-80,80a,
Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 718 74 75, www.barbursztyn.pl.
Open 08:00 - 22:00. (12-19z). TUGSW
BAR MLECZNY SONECZNY
Keep an eye out for the Sunshine Milk Bar which has
been dishing up extremely good value food for over 50
years. Theyve replaced the 1960s style sign with a new
logo in the window but this is still the place to get your
ll both of pretty decent food and any nostalgia you may
have for the days of the Iron Curtain.QN-2, ul. Abrahama 58-60 (entrance from ul. Wadysawa IV), Gdynia,
tel. (+48) 58 620 53 16. Open 06:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00
- 16:00. Closed Sun. (4-15z). UGS
BAR MLECZNY TURYSTYCZNY
A Milk Bar oering fried cutlets, pierogi, stued cabbage
leaves and the like. The subject of a makeover the place
was previously tipped by the British Guardian newspaper
as a decent cheap eat and the new clean surroundings
make this tip more appealing.QB-3/4, ul. Szeroka 8/10,
Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 60 13. Open 08:30 - 20:00.
From Septemmber open 08:30 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 17:00. (4-15z). UNGS
33
Restaurants
It gives us great pleasure at

Bohemia Beer Cafe to invite
you for an unforgettable
time at our Czech bar and
restaurant where delicious
food is accompanied by beer
brewed especially for us.
BOHEMIA BEER CAFE
ul. Podgarbary 10, 80- 827 Gdansk

kontakt@bohemia.gda.pl | www.bohemia.gda.pl
www.facebook.com/BohemiaBeerCafe
Restaurants
BAVARIAN
CHINESE
ALTHAUS KUCHNIA BAWARSKA

A bright and attractive spot on the main street is the
setting for Gdynias rst self-proclaimed Bavarian restaurant. Plenty of attention has been paid to some of the
details with attractive, friendly Frauleins in authentic
dress serving you at chequered tableclothed tables with
Brauhaus music playing courtesy of Bavaria World Service radio (really!). The problem is that while they have
created a perfectly acceptable atmosphere, the owners
have rather missed the point. What do you think when
you hear Bavarian restaurant? Steins of beer and a menu
of gut-busting dishes, most involving pork. While the
pork knuckle (Golonka) was good, particularly as it is one
of the few places weve seen in Poland where it is prepared with a crispy skin, the draught beer options ran to
Paulaner and Zywiec, a mass-produced Polish brand that
any self-respecting Brauhaus wouldnt allow through the
door let alone behind the bar. These are still early days
and hopefully this wont become another to join the, disappointingly long, list of restaurants/bars that invested
heavily in presentation and lightly in substance.Qul.
witojaska 81, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 713 73 73, www.
restauracjaalthaus.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 21:00. (21-48z). TUGSW
FLAMING & CO.

Oering a fantastic location with a private beach and a
smart white wood decor the menu is striking in that it has a
choice of soups, salads and a selection of largely sh or Italian mains on one side and what appears to be the Chinese
menu of the restaurant that used to occupy this space (the
bulk of the building is a Chinese owned and themed hotel).
While weve long recommended the left side of the menu
from years of experience of the talented chef at their Warsaw location, the Chinese part remains disappointing and
overpriced. Were hoping the aming chef can maybe teach
the Chinese a thing or two.QM-4, Al. Wojska Polskiego 1,
Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 585 86 86, www.flaming-co.com.
Open 08:00 - 22:00. (25-74z). TUGBSW
BURGERS
3 BURGER
If its a simple burger we want this is the place to head to in
Gdynia. A plush interior featuring lots of red fabric seems
a bit out of sync with what is ultimately a snack joint but
well let them worry about the cleaning bills. We meantime will denitely be re-visiting to try each of the handful
of options on the menu, all of which look tasty. Our Wild
burger was delicious and best of all stayed intact until the
last mouthful thanks to a bun that was a bit more solid
than most. The chips, large chunks of potato with the skins
still on, were a little tough but the quality of the burger
buys them a pass on that.QN-2, ul. witojaska 61,
Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 782 02 12, www.3burger.pl. Open
12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.
(16-39z). GBSW
BISTRO MAPA
Burger joints have been the latest fad to hit the Tri-city
and having sampled so many weve started to favour particular places on particular days. Malpa Burger is the place
to go if you want a high quality piece of meat, prepared
like a steak to all intents and purposes, with a choice of
quality buns to match it with. This place, tucked into a
less walked street but just seconds from the Bohaterow
Monte Cassino, is the classiest burger weve tried though
you might not guess it from the number of customers
some days. Do not let that put you o.QL-4, ul. Podjazd
5, Sopot, tel. (+48) 721 84 04 04, www.malpabistro.
pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (5-29z).
T6UGSW
YANG GUANG
A good choice for big, greasy helpings of Chinese comfort food. The interiors are an improbable mix of lanterns
and fans juxtaposed against dark shadows and Ye Olde
Danzig furnishings, and while it doesnt look particularly
enthralling its unlikely youll come away feeling anything
less than deeply satised - no small praise in a city still
struggling to embrace the concept of ethnic food.QD-5,
ul. Stgiewna 1, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 58 45, www.
chinska-gdansk.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (28-100z).
VGBSW
CROATIAN
DALMACIJA
A very good Croatian restaurant on Gdynias main street.
The decor follows the shing village cottage theme and is a
bright clean space to enjoy very tasty and generous dishes
which feature lots of lamb. The main courses come with potatoes, rice and salad ensuring that you need not eat again
that day at prices that make it one of the best options in
the city.QN-2, ul. witojaska 51, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58
621 17 30, www.dalmacija.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 23:00. (26-42z). TGBS
CZECH
BOHEMIA BEER CAFE
A Czech/Bavarian themed restaurant and bar in the attractive setting of what once served as the Royal Stables, found
metres from the main thoroughfare, ulica Dluga. The menu
is a collection of dishes youd expect to nd in a Munich
or Czech beer hall with pork knuckle, potato pancakes and
Czech knedle all making an appearance alongside traditional Polish dishes like pierogi. Of particular note is the
range of international beer including Belgian, Czech, Slovakian and locally produced beers which are complimented
by special light and dark brews produced exclusively for
Bohemia.QB-4, ul. Podgarbary 10, Gdask, tel. (+48) 690
67 06 90, www.bohemia.gda.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00; Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 02:00. From October open 11:00 - 23:00; Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (24-39z). UGBSW
35
Restaurants
Second best restaurant

in Sopot according to
For bookings call us: +48 512 520 300
or e-mail us: restauracja@brasseriedor.pl
www.brasseriedor.pl
We offer tasting menu.
Villa Antonina Sopot
ul. Obrocw Westerplatte 36A
81-706 Sopot
www.villaantonina.pl
FISH
BAR PRZYSTA
A legend for Poles visiting the coast, this place has built a
reputation since its early days back in the nineties when it operated out of a converted beach-side toilet block. How times
have changed and now youll nd a huge villa overlooking the
shermens dock serving a long line of customers whatever the
season. Certainly not as good or as cheap as it once was, this is
still the place many people come to enjoy freshly prepared sh
and chips, Polski style, and while we tend to steer away from the
cod, the sh soup never lets us down.QM-5, Al. Wojska Polskiego 11, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 06 61, www.barprzystan.
pl. Open 09:30 - 23:00. (15-50z). TUGBSW
Restaurants
NEW
MORSKA
Found on a side street close to Monte Cassino the decor
is bright and modern, the service friendly and professional and the dishes original and tasty. The spicy sh
soup comes brimming with squid, shrimp, oysters and
cod and is delicious. The mains are all mouth-watering
though the fact one or two werent as tasty as they appeared on the simple menu should be taken more as a
compliment to the menus creator than as a criticism of a
chef in the early days of this new venture. A very pleasant
experience all round and recommended for an enjoyable
romantic meal or evening with friends. A good choice of
Italian wine as well incidentally.QM-4, ul. Morska 9, Sopot, tel. (+48) 539 90 17 31. Open 12:00 - 23:00. From
September open 12:00 - 22:00. (27-69z). GB
TARG RYBNY - FISHMARKT
Without doubt one of the better restaurants in the
town. This place is a visual delight from the moment
you enter, with warm light wood furnishings topped
with check blue tablecloths and model fishing boats.
The seafood is reputed as some of the best in town, and
weve found no reason to dispute this. But fishy offerings be damned, weve discovered one more reason to
visit and thats the Argentinean steak, nicely concluded
with a nip of Danzig liquor made to ancient recipes.
QD-3, ul. Targ Rybny 6c, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 320
90 11, www.targrybny.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (39160z). UGS
TAWERNA
Entering Tawerna isnt unlike walking the gangplank
and boarding an 18th century galleon. Fitted with
heavy woods, nautical trinkets and paintings of naval
engagements Tawerna is the spitting image of Nelsons cabin. The chefs, trained in France, have cooked
for dignitaries like the President of Poland, and while
the menu is primarily famed for its seafood theres
also some highly rated Gallic dishes on show.QC-5,
ul. Powronicza 19/20, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 41
14, www.tawerna.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (35-99z).
T6UGBSW
All new menu

FRENCH
A LA FRANAISE
Mon dieu! It says a lot about the increased cosmopolitanism of the city that we now have a French-owned
bistro, cafe and shop here. This is a fantastic addition to
the culinary map as much for its prices as for its wares. In
Poland weve come to expect the word French next to a
restaurant to equal beaucoup dargent but not here. The
menu is a selection of extremely well-priced, very tasty
salads, crepes and lled baquettes with soups and daily
main course specials for the hungrier among you. Its a
great lunchtime stop and if you pop upstairs youll nd
not only the chef cooking away but also a small photography exhibition. Find A la Francaise hidden away,
across the river, 3 minutes walk from the Green Gate.
QD-5, ul. Spichrzowa 24/1, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 765
11 12. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. (10-25z).
6UGBSW
BRASSERIE DOR
Set in a handsome, renovated Sopot Villa on one of
our favourite streets in the city (check out a couple
of the dilapidated villas) this is a restaurant set in a
hotel - something we tend to avoid including. We
make an exception to the surroundings when they
are clearly good and thats the case here. The menu
is concise (good) and the cuisine French (also good)
with the breast of white fowl very good value. Worth
a visit also if you are looking for a little peace away
from the busy town centre.QL-3, ul. Obrocw
Westerplatte 36 A, Sopot, tel. (+48) 512 54 03 00,
www.brasseriedor.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (36119z). TUGSW
CYRANO ET ROXANE
A small nugget of France finds itself in Sopot in this
tiny rail side cottage. Owned and run by Marc, a reallive native of Bergerac, this tiny treasure has an authentic tavern atmosphere, and wines hand-picked to
compliment the nibbles and full mains on offer. Try, for
instance, the French sausage platter, or for something
more considerable peruse the daily special chalked up
on the board or concise list of mains whose number
include a super duck which is slow-cooked over twelve
hours. Amongst the regional specialities on offer the
foie gras, reputedly made from the owners grandfathers recipe, is a memorable pleasure.QL-4, ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 11, Sopot, tel. (+48) 660 75
95 94, www.cyrano-roxane.com. Open 13:00 - 22:00.
(35-69z). UGS
LE BONJOUR
A small French bakery in the heart of Gdynia which quickly
built a loyal following thanks to its cakes in particular. Our
favourite is the Napoleonka but quite frankly everything is
delicious.QN-2, ul. witojaska 62, Gdynia, tel. (+48)
58 354 12 27. Open 07:30 - 18:00, Sat 08:30 - 17:00, Sun
08:30 - 16:00. TUGSW
Cyrano et Roxane
WINE BAR & RESTAURANT
Wine and cuisine from the south of France
Ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 11, 81-704 Sopot

Tel. +48 660 759 594, cyrano.roxane.pl@gmail.com
www.cyrano-roxane.pl
Open from 13.00 till 22.00
Cuisine, produce
and atmosphere all 100%
"a la franaise"or simply...French.
A LA FRANCAISE
ul. Spichrzowa 24/1 (entrance from Stgiewna), Gdask
tel. +48 58 765 11 12
www.facebook.com/po.francusku
37
Restaurants
Restaurants
FUSION
RESTAURANT ABRAHAMA IS A FREE

SPACE IN A MODERN BUT AT THE
SAME TIME ELEGANT STYLE.
AVOCADO
Found upstairs over the Unique Club, Avocado is up there
amongst our favourite places in Sopot. The menu is more
than that though and while the sushi and sashimi sets are
excellent we keep coming back to the wide range of fusion
dishes with the beef tenderloin wasabi one of our favourite meals of the year. The two young chefs holding court
here look like they have learnt their trade in more exotic
surroundings than Northern Poland and the ow of local
and foreign voices seem to conrm theyre getting it right.
The balcony terrace is one of the places to head for when
the weather permitsQM-4, Pl. Zdrojowy 1, Sopot, tel.
(+48) 58 585 83 28, www.avocado-sopot.pl. Open 13:00
- 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. (20-300z). T6U
VGBSW
GREEK
In addition to a carefully selected menu of

is salmon marinated in raspberry, beef

Barnaise sauce...
EL GRECO
One of the top meals youll nd, hence a location o-centre
has done nothing to dent the prots here. Its big fun here,
especially when the glittery trousered band appear to
make some noise, but this is a restaurant rst and foremost,
and you wont nd the food scoring anything less than top
marks. All the typical faves are served here, including superb lamb and octopus.QO-3, Al. Pisudskiego 1, Gdynia,
tel. (+48) 58 622 77 52, www.el-greco.com.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00. (25-70z). T6UBXSW
INDIAN
MASALA
Dont let the stained tablecloths put you o. Table manners go out of the window in Masala, a small Indian spot
attached to the side of the Madison Mall, and youll nd
locals and foreigners alike scooping up their curries with
thick, uy portions of naan. The chefs are imported from
Delhi, though clearly enjoy working in Gdask - watch
them chucking the spices in from behind the glass screen.
Enjoy Indian, Thai and Chinese dishes from padded velvety
sofas while Bollywood tunes keep the atmosphere authenticQB-2, ul. Rajska 10 (Madison Shopping Mall), Gdask,
tel. (+48) 58 690 80 40, www.masala.gda.pl. Open 11:30
- 22:00. (18-46z). TUGBSW
TAJ MAHAL
In a word excellent, though at these prices youd bloody
well expect so. This comes close to one of the best curries
in Poland. Sparingly decorated with brass ornaments, wood
petitions and a winged horse bursting from the wall, the
Taj Mahals real strength lies in knock out curries that leave
you tingling for hours. The Murgh Mekhani is fabulous, and
perfectly preceded by a lentil soup with cream, while service is prompt, pleasant and worthy of the tip. Dont miss
it.QN-2, ul. Abrahama 86 (entrance from ul. Wadysawa
IV), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 664 92 11, www.tajmahal.com.
pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (24-48z). UGBS
TANDOOR HOUSE
An Indian restaurant where the food is authentic and wellprepared and the menu covers all the familiar dishes while
the spice level, unlike that in many ethnic cuisine restaurants in Poland, is not watered down to suit the local palate.
We feel a chicken tikka masala has to be the yardstick for
any Indian restaurant and while many Indians will tell you
it is a ridiculously simple dish to prepare, it is one that if often done badly in other Indian eateries around the country.
That is not the case here and the only thing that was more
pleasing that wiping up every last bit of sauce was the size
of the bill which saw a family of four fed for less than 100z.
QM-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 8-10/2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550
52 62, www.tandoorhouse.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (20-59z). TUGBSW
TANDOORI LOVE
The people behind this Indian bar/restaurant have a good track
record with places like Rucola and Tapas de Rucola and theyve
carried it over here. The food is good but the portions strike you
as small until you realise theyve gone for a price range to keep
trade brisk. Good for a light meal with a selection of Indian dishes including a good chicken tikka masala and a friendly sta. If
youre used to eating in Indian restaurants youll like it but youd
be advised to order double portions.QM-4, ul. Grunwaldzka
41, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 710 72 07, www.tandoorilove.pl.
Open 13:00 - 22:00. (18-35z). GBSW
INTERNATIONAL
NEW
ABRAHAMA
A very smart restaurant where the chef is at the heart of the action in the restaurant itself. The decor suggests formal but it really isnt, as witnessed by us stopping by on our way home from
the beach on our bicycles, though it is one of Gdynias more impressive looking spots. The food is very good and what would
best be described as European dishes given a Polish twist. The
beef tenderloin is recommended although a colleague tells us
the salmon marinated in raspberry is the house speciality. Often
very quiet dont let that put you o as that says far more about
the locals than the chef.QN-1, ul. Antoniego Abrahama 4,
Gdynia, tel. (+48) 790 75 01 50, www.abrahama.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00. (26-72z). GBW6TU
NEW
BOCIAN MORSKI
An extremely attractive looking new venture with a great
terrace overlooking the newly built square just o Monte
Cassino. We were delighted to see one of the Moroz brothers bustling around as their restaurant Bulaj has been a favourite for years. As there the focus is on sh but well be
honest at this point and admit we never got past the starters - the phone rang and we were called away. The menu
was concise though pricier than in most Sopot restaurants
but if theyre to the same standard as the starter theyll be
value for money.QM-4, ul. Puaskiego 19/1, Sopot, tel.
(+48) 58 354 40 40, www.bocianmorski.pl. Open 12:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (40-300z). GBW
39
Restaurants
Restaurants
Try the
best beer
in Poland!
Restaurant Hotel Gdask and

mini-brewery Brovarnia Gdask
Szafarnia 9 (at the yacht marina)
tel. 58 320 19 70
informacja@brovarnia.pl
BROVARNIA
Words cant begin to do Brovarnia justice. If theres a better
beer in Poland wed like to know about it, but not before
weve nished road testing the menu. Indeed, the microbrewery is just one reason to visit. The chow here is top
drawer with excellent mains to go with your beer such as
pork knuckle, and a beer bites menu that includes chicken
strips and a selection of avoured lards - from spicy pepper to plum. Head up the stairs for something a little more
formal.QD-4, ul. Szafarnia 9, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 320 19
70, www.brovarnia.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 13:00 23:00. (24-79z). T6UEGBSW
NEW
BROWAR MIEJSKI SOPOT
A genuinely impressive remodelling of this venue sees
a restaurant and microbrewery take over the old Zloty Ul
premises. The menu oers a tasty selection of soups, sh
and grilled meat dishes, along with ve dierent types of
beer brewed on-site. The food was surprisingly near perfect
considering the number of tables available, the prices very
acceptable while the beer only ever reached the not bad
mark on the IYP scale (the Pils incidentally). We were there
three times in its opening week which will tell you what
you need to know. Were going to put a truly horric experience with the service on the third visit down to opening
month nerves and just hope they get their act together. If
they do this will become very popular.QM-3, ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 35. tel. (+48) 58 342 02 42. Open
09:00 - 24:00. From September 11:00 - 23:00. (20-40z).
Open 13.00 - 22.00
BULAJ
Set in a two-oored wooden beach house, this is an altogether more civilised way to enjoy sh dishes overlooking
the sea. The chef, Artur Moroz, is well-respected well beyond the boundaries of Sopot and this place has a loyal and
sizeable regular clientele who keep coming back because
of the quality of the Baltic Salmon, mackerel and halibut.
Do not, however, think that the chef limits his expertise to
sh and this is as good a place as any in the city to discover
there is more to Polish cuisine than lard on bread, breaded
cutlets and gherkins. Try the duck with apple and cranberry while watching the sun go down from their beach
terrace to experience another side of Sopot away from the
hustle and bustle of Monte Cassino.QM-3, Al. Mamuszki
22, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 51 29, www.bulaj.pl. Open
11:00 - 22:00. (19-99z). T6UGBSW
Authentic Indian cuisine in an intimate setting,

with tandoor cooking live in the heart of Sopot.
Taste the temple of joy.
Meal delivery within the city of Sopot only.
ul. Grunwaldzka 41, 81-754 Sopot

tel. 587 107 207
www.tandoorilove.pl
CAF BAR MON BALZAC

Youll nd most customers using Balzac as a drinkery, and
a very good one at that, but dont for one moment think
the menu is an afterthought here. Meals here include
some fantastic fondue choices (chocolate, cheese, meat
and Asian), a variety of breakfast options and a range of
French dishes for the rest of the day. All this in a warm
environment featuring lots of bare bricks and big, plump
sofas.QC-4, ul. Piwna 36/39, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 682
25 25, www.monbalzac.pl. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (19-99z).
TY6EGBSW
COCO
A smart bar/restaurant in the Waterfront centre which gets
a visit from us when were heading for the cinema upstairs
and have a hankering for something a bit spicier than zurek
and pierogi. There are touches of a number of Asian cuisines in the menu, as well as vegetarian and vegan dishes,
but we stick to the tried and tested spicy soups and the
Royal Pad Thai which gives you chicken and shrimp. Not a
bad spot for a late evening cocktail either if you dont want
to negotiate the tired revellers in the nearby beach bars.
QO-1, ul. Waszyngtona 21, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 661
62 00, www.coco.net.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:45. (12-70z).
TY6UGBSW
labourers getting work from the quayside tradesmen who

would generally spend their earnings immediately in the
bars. They were obviously an important part of life in the
city and the old-fashioned menu includes a poem in German about them alongside a selection of pre-war advertisements. Now a very welcoming restaurant and bar the
menu is concise oering local dishes washed down with
locally produced beer or nalewki (traditional alcoholic concoctions often made using fruit) and its riverside location
makes it well worth a look.QD-4, Dugie Pobrzee 11,
Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 380 11 11, www.gdanskibowke.
com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. From October open 10:00 23:00. (32-75z). TUEGBSW
DWADZIECIA CZTERY DANIA BISTRO & BAR

Operating under the name Twenty-Four Courses, calls to
the owners made us none the wiser as there are more than
the prescribed number on the menu. Not that we are complaining. Priding themselves on Polish classics and burgers
our latest favourite has to be the beef rump steak. Delicious.
Also of note are the non-alcoholic cocktails.QC-4, ul. Piwna 16, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 304 14 92. Open 09:00 24:00. From September open 09:00 - 22:00. (16-29z).
6UGBSW
GOLDWASSER
Still one of our favourite places and one of the best places to
take guests in Gdansk, this atmospheric riverside restaurant
features dishes like duck, fresh sh and delicious homemade pierogi and bread along with locally produced beer
served by multi-lingual service. Relax in the classic Gdansk
interior or hit the garden the moment the sun appears to
enjoy one of the best choices of properly prepared steak in
the city in the shadow of the citys signature Crane (uraw
or Krantor). Souvenir hunters should keep an eye out for
the traditional Danzig spirits which have been re-born under the German owner and the Goldwasser liquer box sets
make for an excellent souvenir.QD-4, ul. Dugie Pobrzee
22, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 88 78, www.goldwasser.pl.
Open 08:00 - 23:00. (46-139z). TGBS
GDASKI BOWKE
First o - what is a Gdanski Bowke. Well theres a dummy
outside showing a typical Bowke who could be found
cruising the waterfront before the war. They were casual
41
Restaurants
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Bohaterw Monte Cassino 63/9, Sopot
tel. +48 58 341 84 02, mob. +48 506 070 221
biuro@montevino.pl, www.facebook.com/montevino
A place that was created out of passion and

unrestrained imagination. Enjoy fresh local
produce and exotic flavors that fuse the
four corners of the world.
Open daily from 14.00 till the last guest
ul. Monte Cassino 53 (Crooked House)
81-717 Sopot, tel. 58 555 53 55
www.rucola.pl
Restaurants
KLEOPATRA RESTAURANT & PUB
Cheaper dining on the square featuring a concise choice
of mains including lled potatoes, sh, grilled meats and
a choice of sweet and meat stued pancakes such as
chicken and spicy Mexican. While they appear to have
lost their streetside garden, a smoking section inside and
a long cocktail list are positives although ultimately the
prices reect the quality. Management refuses to update
their info with us probably due to us publishing some truly dreadful readers comments on our website (worse can
be found on Tripadvisor). Note that they have some very
expensive spirits available so be very careful when ordering to avoid any confusion.QC-4, ul. Dugi Targ 17/18,
Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 719 22 96. Open 10:00-22:00. (2750z). BX
KOKIETERIA
Set in the Hanza hotel overlooking the Soldek ship, we
usually dont include in-house restaurants unless they
have something special to oer. In the case of Kokieteria you have a few recommendable points. The location
is excellent, the terrace is perfect, but its the seasonal
menu that keeps catching our eye thanks particularly to
the focus on local produce which is found right through
from the food to the beer. Also of note is their Sunday
brunch which at 65zl per person is an excellent deal.QD4, ul. Tokarska 6 (Hanza Hotel), Gdask, tel. (+48) 661
51 18 11, www.restauracjakokieteria.pl. Open 10:00
- 23:00. From October open 11:00 - 23:00. (27-72z).
TUEGBW
MONTE VINO
Good food, a great selection of wine and a prime location
overlooking the square suggest that while this might be enjoyable it is also likely to be pricey. The truth is not so painful
to swallow. While it is by no means cheap, the shrimp and
salmon were excellent while the steak was cooked exactly
as requested and tasted even better washed down with a
recommended wine more than justifying the outlay.QM4, ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 63/9, Sopot, tel. (+48)
506 07 02 21. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.
(25-73z). 6UGBSW
RESTAURACJA PANORAMA
Set in a beautifully renovated building atop a hill with a
wonderful view of the bay, Panorama is at last a restaurant
which makes full use of the surroundings. For a start you
get a sense of the Gdynia of the 1930s up here and how this
must have originally been built as a residence for someone
with money and a love of cutting-edge architecture. The
menu is original, well-prepared and surprisingly wellpriced considering the venue and the view, with a concise
but still dicult to choose from range of salads, sh, pasta
and meat dishes. Come the summer and arise its greatest
feature - the wonderful decked terrace.QO-2, ul. Adama
Mickiewicza 1/3, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 605 11 55 33, www.
panoramagdynia.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 23:00. (25-90z). TUGW
MOJITO
A wide ranging, beautifully printed menu which is full of
choice as well as more than the occasional typo. Oering
everything from breakfasts through toasted sandwiches,
salads, soups, pancakes to more substantial Polish meat
and sh dishes. Of all the places dotted around the square
this is the most intimate with friendly service and good
food and portions. Smaller than most of its neighbours
Mojito is more stylish and rather feels like a trendy cocktail
bar with food while in summer it sports one of the best terraces.QC-4, ul. Dugi Targ 35/38A, Gdask, tel. (+48) 500
43 26 91. Open 08:30 - 24:00. (24-50z). T6UG
BSW
RESTAURACJA SZTUCZKA
Probably the most enjoyable meal weve had in Gdynia in
years. This small, secluded venue (its metres from the main
street but easy to miss) is an excellent example of the originality that weve always admired Gdynias restaurant scene
for. The cuisine is described as Authors Cuisine which in
this case means beautifully presented and very tasty dishes
which use lots of familiar ingredients but mix and present
them in original ways. We could have ordered anything
on the menu but plumped for caramelised chicken livers
which was excellent. If youve come from abroad we dare
you to nd food this good at these prices.QN-1, ul. Abrahama 40 (entrance from ul. Wadysawa IV), Gdynia, tel.
(+48) 58 622 24 94, www.sztuczka.com. Open 12:00
- 21:00, Fri 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 20:00. (25-68z). UGBSW
MOMENT
Found upstairs in the Gdynia Infobox in the centre of the
city, Moment oers you a choice of beef, chicken, seafood
and vegetables on skewers which are then grilled to order.
Served with sides including some excellent fries and an
impressive range of bottled regional microbrews, this has
a lot going for it and is worth a look. The one black mark on
our visit was the service which bugged us for an order and
then abandoned us while the management sat around
staring at their laptops and admiring their new footware.
QN-1, ul. wietojaska 30 (Infobox), Gdynia, tel. (+48)
58 623 34 69, www.chwilamoment.com.pl. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (9-26z). T6UG
BSW
RUCOLA
The fact that this restaurant, tucked away in the rear of the
Crooked House (Sopots landmark Krzywy Domek building), has been around for such a long time should tell you
all enough about how good the food is. The owners are
well-travelled and the menu is a collection of some of the
favourite dishes discovered on their journeys, sometimes
replicated by using the original recipes; sometimes fused
to create new exotic dishes. Its not just North African cuisine mind and you can expect well-prepared dishes from
all corners of the globe including India, South America and
the Far East. QM-4, ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 53, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 53 55, www.rucola.pl. Open 14:00
- 22:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 23:00. (24-58z). TUGBW
43
Restaurants
Restaurants
TEKSTYLIA
By day, Tekstylia is the kind of unassuming coee shop/
lunch spot in which people feel comfortable slurping the
rich urek soup (laden with sausage) and hefty smoothies
from behind laptop screens and newspapers. But as the
hours tick by the patio becomes a popular happy hour spot
and patrons begin to load up on Tekstylias meat-centric
menu (which comes in an easy to read English option)
that clearly denotes which dishes are traditional Polish entrees. The veal meatballs are a particular favourite, and we
couldnt help but order the fruity sangria to accompany it
all. Of course the bar, which is illuminated by a large backlit
sewing machine image, is happy to mix up coee drinks
along with cocktails well into the evening.QB-3, ul. Szeroka 121/122, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 304 77 63. Open
09:00 - 23:00. (20-35z). UGBSW
We invite you from 09:00 to 24:00

ul. Szeroka 121/122; 80-835 Gdask;
www.tekstyliacafe.pl; +48 58 304-77-63
LOCAL BEER
Polis vodka, great, Polish beer, not so great.
Polish
Thats not a rare opinion, and one frequently
That
espoused by the sta of In Your Pocket. With
espo
the big brands coming from Silesia and
Poznan what about local beer? There is
Poz
hope. First of all there are the in-house
ho
bbrews at Brovarnia, one of the countrys
bbest microbreweries. And then there is
tthe discovery of a rather smashing local
bbrewery called Amber Browar. The secret
oof their success? Aside from a master
bbrewer who is clearly a genius they use
oonly the best ingredients hops from
LLublin, fermentation yeast from Munich
aand absolutely no preservatives, addittives or corn. Thats why youll still feel
on top of the world following an absolute
skinful. So what brands to watch for then? ywe looks
like it might well become the ocial brand of In Your
Pocket, though do keep an eye open for Zlote Lwy, Kozlak and Amber Classic, while the Johannes beer introduced to celebrate the 400th anniversary of Hevelius
birth proved so popular that they have decided to keep
brewing it. Find the Amber Brewery represented in Amsterdam Bar & Bagels, Flisak and the Goldwasser or Targ
Rybny restaurants.
TRIO
Pancakes, pizza, salad, steak; if theres a thing Trio dont
serve then its passed us by. The expression Jack of all
trades, master of none springs to mind, but thats not
the case at Trio, an attractive looking space that offers
decent food at even better prices. In a further plus, it
doesnt look like a dive - on the contrary, this smart caf/
bar/eatery looks like the sort of place you wouldnt be
embarrassed to bring your date to. Decorated with lacquered woods and moody paintings this is every inch
a venue to consider if you dont go beyond the 25z
bracket for food and they now have the added bonus
of Gluten-free dishes and a childminder on Sunday afternoons from 12:00-17:00.QN-1, ul. Starowiejska 2935, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 621 81 25, www.trio-gdynia.
pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (10-40z).
TUVGBSW
VILLA SEDAN
Weve been big fans of Villa Sedan for years. Not only did
this lot do service when most in Poland thought that was
something that happened to your car, but the food has
also been excellent, original and aordable. We particularly
love it as a place where you can take guests from abroad to
impress them and give them a sense of classic Sopot. The
food continues to be extremely good and the service too
remains a step ahead even of anywhere that might have
understood being friendly and helpful is the whole point.
QM-4, ul. Puaskiego 18-20, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 09
80, www.sedan.pl. Open 07:00 - 11:00, 13:00 - 22:00.
(30-50z). TGBSW
VINEGRE DI RUCOLA
One of the most attractive venues to have opened in
the whole Tri-city in quite some time. Located on the
top oor of the Naval Museum, enter via the museum
entrance even if it looks closed during the evening and
take the lift up to the third oor where the doors open
onto some of the best views of the bay available in the
city. This is an extremely attractive modern space with a
large terrace, but despite its size it still feels like a perfect spot for an intimate dinner. The menu is heavily ingdansk.inyourpocket.com
uenced by the Mediterranean region and youll nd a

mouth-watering menu of tapas, salads, pastas, seafood
and meat dishes. A glance at a nearby table encouraged us to choose one of the delicious thin crust pizzas
washed down with a couple of cold beers and we were
very pleased with the choice. Professional and friendly
service add extra points and this looks set to become one
of our favourite places for entertaining visiting guests.
Qul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1b, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 798 08 07
98, www.vinegre.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 23:00. (24-75z). TUGBW
WILLA LUBICZ
Beautifully prepared food served in an elegant dining
room which is designed to recall the halcyon days of the
1930s when Gdynia was at the cutting edge of everything in Poland. Set out in the peaceful Orlowo district,
a couple of minutes walk from a quiet beach and small
pier, in the summer you can sit under the stars while dining on wild boar, while in winter enjoy the warmth of a
log-burning replace. Well worth a visit if you appreciate
a bit of peace and quiet in civilised surroundings.QO-6,
ul. Orowska 43, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 662 49 89, www.
willalubicz.pl. Open 07:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00; Sat,
Sun 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00. (35-80z). TUG
BSW
ZATOKA SZTUKI
Nowhere is the transformation of Sopot from rundown seaside town to upmarket leisure resort more
visible than it is here. For many years the location of
the rather rough Galaxy nightclub, the old structure
was pulled down in 2011 to be replaced by this spacious and bright, multi-level City Cultural Centre. The
ground floor restaurant is an attractive space featuring
a bar made out of huge pebbles and excellent outdoor
terrace while the kitchen offers a well-prepared and
presented international menu whose prices surprise
considering the quality and superb location. The upper
floors have played host to art exhibitions while the rest
of the building, along with housing a concept store,
will be dedicated to exhibiting the work of local artists.QM-3, Al. Mamuszki 14, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 345
30 30, www.mcka.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00. (17-120z).
T6UGSW
URAW
A small and cosy restaurant cafe which sits directly
next to the citys landmark Crane overlooking the waterfront. Despite its excellent location the prices of the
salads, pierogi, meat and in particular fish dishes are
kept reasonable and this is not the tourist trap you
might expect. A breakfast menu featuring eggs with
extras like salmon or cottage cheese or croissants
makes this a notable place to start your day.QD-4, ul.
Dugie Pobrzee 32, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 25 38,
www.restauracjazuraw.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00. From
October open 10:00 - 22:00. (18-64z). Y6G
BSW
MODERN EUROPEAN
RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL BAR
SZAFARNIA 10 - RESTAURANT
& COCKTAIL BAR
WHERE THE HAPPY PEOPLE MEET
UL. SZAFARNIA10, 80-755 GDANSK

PHONE: + 48 533 874 006 | RESTAURACJA@SZAFARNIA10.PL
45
Restaurants
Restaurants
In Ristorante La Cucina you'll
find authentic Italian cuisine,
wine and dessert, all in a warm
atmosphere that feels like home.
socialist blocks. But a bit like Gwyneth Paltrow theres more

to it than looks. In the Meras case theres an Italian restaurant on the rst oor which combines good Italian cooking with a stylish restaurant that doesnt feel like a typical
hotel dining room. This is more upmarket than other Italian
restaurants in the city but our duck ensured a return visit
while our partners ravioli with scallops and prawns also
met with approval. Prices are higher than in other Italian
eateries but this is denitely a case of getting what you pay
for.QM-6, ul. Bitwy Pod Powcami 59 (Mera SPA Hotel),
Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 766 60 21, www.pescatore.pl. Open
16:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (38-80z). TUGW
PIZZERIA MARGHERITA
An encyclopaedic list of Italian classics cooked before your
eyes by a chef not averse to bursting into the occasional
song. The pizza is conceived inside a traditional brick oven
and this charming spot breathes an air of familiarity, making
it popular with families fresh from the trials of a day spent
observing the beasts of Oliwa Zoo.QE-2, ul. Cystersw 11,
Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 552 37 16, www.margherita.com.
pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00. (16-30z). VGBSW
Ristorante La Cucina, ul.Tandeta 1 lok.77 (entrance from ul. Szeroka), tel. +48 58 573 34 44
www.lacucina.pl www.facebook.com/lacucinagdansk, Open : 12.00 23.00
See our restaurants on Google Street View and Google Maps
DANIEL FAHRENHEIT
Give a moment to Daniel Fahrenheit, the local lad
who gave his name to the temperature scale. Born
on 24th May, 1686, Daniel Gabriel Fahrenheit grew
up on ul. Ogarna 195, Gdansk, the eldest of the five
Fahrenheit children to survive childhood. The son of a
merchant, Fahrenheit had a nomadic upbringing, his
family shifting round the Hanseatic cities of Europe
as his father pursued riches. After his parents died
suddenly Daniel abandoned his studies and joined
a firm of merchants trading in Amsterdam. But his
thirst for the sciences never left him and his travels
took him across Europe, and he became acquainted
with leading academic figures like Gottfried Leibenz
and Christian Wolff. By 1718 he had quit his work to
lecture full time in Amsterdam, and in 1724 he travelled to England to be inaugurated into the Royal
Society. However, his defining moment was yet to
come. The same year his experiments with thermometers led to the development of the Fahrenheit
scale, the first accurate way of measuring temperature in the world. Up until the 1970s the scale he
devised was used across the world, and while most
nations have since abandoned it in favour of Celsius
it continues to be used in the USA and a handful of
other nations.
ITALIAN
GRONO DI RUCOLA
Another winner from the Rucola team. Youll need to head
out of the centre to the edge of the forest where youll
nd this beautiful wooden cottage overlooking the citys
athletics stadium (it is literally on the back straight of the
400m track). The menu is concise, changing and very
original with a handful of dishes under the headings Earth,
Water, Garden and Sky. Everything we had was top-class
with special mention for the mix of tastes oered by the
glazed duck breasts in a cherry sauce with goats cheese,
beetroot and plum. Recommended.QL-4, ul. Wybickiego
48 , Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 719 65 69, www.gronodirucola.
pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (25-70z). TGBW
RISTORANTE LA CUCINA
Opened in the summer of 2013, La Cucina is an attractive
addition to the citys dining scene and delivers good renditions of Italian classics in a light, bright space. Italian cuisine
is done best, in our book at least, when its done simply and
that is what we like about La Cucina. The pasta was cooked
well and the accompanying sauce was tasty while the salad
was fresh and not overdressed as can often be the problem.
Prices are fair; the setting relaxed and perfect for
a quiet meal without any unnecessary formality while the
sta, by local standards at least, is friendly and ecient. The
biggest compliment we can pay La Cucina is that we like
it and well be back.QC-4, ul. Tandeta 1 (entrance on ul.
Szeroka), Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 573 34 44, www.lacucina.
pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (29-65z).
TUGBSW
SEMPRE PIZZA E PASTA
Expanding northwards from their base in Gdansk, Sempre have moved into one of the citys landmark buildings
casting a magic spell over the multi-levelled detached
We offer high quality

at an affordable price

villa which once housed one of the countrys most famous

clubs. The results are a much cleaner look (some might
suggest sterile) featuring the chains trademark black and
white ooring and simple furnishings in which you can enjoy their choice of very good pizza (although no pasta despite the name). Realistic pricing, particularly on the house
wines, mean well be going back despite the waiter being a
complete clown who managed to check o at least half of
our Service Nightmares list. Expect the wonderful garden
to be packed to the rafters throughout the summer and autumn. Also at ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 49, Sopot (M-4);
ul. Duga 6/7/8, Gdask (B-4) and ul. Targ Rybny 11, Gdask
(D-3).QM-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 11, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 341
91 78, www.semprepizza.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 23:00. (15-45z). T6GBSW
LA FORTUNA
Good quality Italian food served by smart looking waiters
to the Gdynia business crowd. The lasagna is denitely not
how mama made it, and neither will the interior remind
you of your Italian escapades. Nonetheless, acceptable.
QO-1, ul. Armii Krajowej 9/1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 661
26 66, www.lafortuna.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (22-60z).
TGBSW
PESCATORE
We are fans of the Mera Hotel rst and foremost because
its a smashing looking building which came and beautied
a section of the coast previously lled exclusively by ugly,
47
Restaurants
Ristorante
Tesoro
ul. Polna 70
81-740 Sopot
tel. +48 79 33 444 97
Traditional Italian restaurant

run with passion
by Italian owners.
Restaurants
TESORO
Italian owned and run Tesoro is a pasta/pizza restaurant
which has split opinion right down the middle. Some think
its great, others say its excellent. Popular with the regions
growing Italian community, and a spread of local celebs,
the weekly menu here has got the plaudits clapping till
their hands hurt. QM-5, ul. Polna 70, Sopot, tel. (+48)
793 34 44 97, www.restauracjatesoro.pl. Open 12:00 24:00. From September open 13:00 - 23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00
- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (30-85z). TUGBSW
TOSCANA RESTAURANT
Tucked away in a tiny cottage close to the Southern Park,
this place couldnt look sweeter if it was built from donuts
and fudge. Many espouse this to be the best restaurant in
the north, and while the local competition has increased
and improved in recent years they may still have a point.
The Polish/Italian chef is a master of pasta, while Anna and
her sta have perfected the art of spoiling their guests.
QM-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 27, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 341 86
65, www.mojatoscana.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
13:00 - 23:00. (25-75z). TY6UGSW
TRATTORIA ANTICA
Coiled close to Pinokio lies Trattoria, a subterranean venue
whose identity has changed three times in as many years
- dont be thrown by the cinq pictures on the walls, theyre
just a throwback to the previous Gallic occupants. Such
schizophrenia surely isnt encouraging, but the menu is;
short and sweet and with no undue complications. Antipasto proves divine, the ragu the best in Sopot, and your
night topped classically with either tiramisu or panna
cotta.QL-4, ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 43, Sopot, tel.
(+48) 58 765 00 98, www.trattoriaantica.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. (20-50z). T6NGBS
JAPANESE
We invite You
to our second restaurant
Tesoro Express
ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 11

81-704 Sopot
tel. +48 531 04 40 04
www.restauracjatesoro.pl
DOM SUSHI
Gdasks version of Sopots popular Dom Sushi has come a
long way. The oating sushi bar that dominates the space is
impressive, but were happy to see the menu goes beyond
spicy tuna rolls and includes an array of Japanese cuisine
like sh soup and a refreshing green tea ice cream. Though
out of Polish beer on our visit, we were happily redirected
to an outstanding plum wine. Also at ul. Bohaterw Monte
Cassino 38, Sopot (M-4).QD-3, ul. Targ Rybny 11, Gdask,
tel. (+48) 58 302 81 81, www.domsushi.pl. Open 12:00 22:00. (25-50z). TUVGBSW
HASHI SUSHI
A classic looking Japanese restaurant with the requisite
rice paper panels, basic wooden furniture and a large revolving bar from where sushi-laiden boats oat past diners. Raw sh aside the menu also features a number of hot
courses, including beef steak in a spicy, balsamic sauce.
QN-6, ul. Przebendowskich 38, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 710
07 01, www.hashisushi.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (35-52z).
TVGBSW
MITO SUSHI
A street that is on the up nds itself with arguably the
citys best Sushi thanks to the opening of Mito. After years
of watching one sushi restaurant after another open in
the Tri-city, wed rather lost interest, but a visit to this
newly opened place sparked it again. Tastefully decorated.
Friendly sta. Good location. The draw though is the Sushi, expertly made, in a huge range of choices with some
hot dishes also available. Slightly pricier than others on the
market but well worth it.QC-4, ul. Tandeta 1 (entrance
on ul. Szeroka), Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 535 57 64, www.
mitosushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (29-59z). TU
VGBSW
SUSHI 77
A very decent sushi stop located just o Sopots main pedestrian street, though a quick visit determines that this is
not the only reason for the custom this venue generates.
Expect a huge range of fresh maki as well as a number
of set menus to pick from. Also at ul. Dugie Pobrzee 30,
Gdask (D-4).QM-4, ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 53,
Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 53 85, www.sushi77.com. Open
12:00 - 22:30. (15-60z). VGBSW
TOKYO SUSHI
A ne-looking sushi house with a crisp design that includes weird prints, stark colours and toilet entrances
covered in oyster shells. The sushi and sashimi choice is
exhaustive, and the lunch sets are reasonably priced between 22 and 69 zlots. And the menu also oers a range
of hot dishes and includes dishes from Thailand, Korea as
well as Japan.QN-1, ul. Mciwoja 9, Gdynia, tel. (+48)
58 669 60 80, www.tokyosushibar.pl. Open 11:0023:00; Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. From September open
11:00- 22:00; Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (12-48z). TU
VGSW
MAGHREBIAN
MALIKA
Probably one of the most interesting newbies weve ever
come across and a sure sign that Polands culinary tastes
have widened hugely in recent years. Promising tastes
from the Mediterranean basin, the menu includes dishes
from southern Europe and colonial French North Africa,
running from soups, salads, couscous and humus up to
a delicious sounding choice of mains which included
some very tasty lamb tagine which we loved.QN-2, ul.
witojaska 69B, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 352 00 08,
www.restauracjamalika.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (2669z). T6GBSW
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49
Restaurants
FOOD WITH A VIEW
ART DECO
One of the most revered dining spaces in the north, and
justly so. The menu, tinkered to suit the season, is never
anything less than a top notch experience involving
modern, adventurous even, takes on Polish and more
global cuisine. Wrapping it up nicely are the interiors
themselves; impeccably elegant and with views of the
pier, beach and bay.QM-4, ul. Powstacw Warszawy
12/14 (Sofitel Grand Sopot Hotel), Sopot, tel. (+48)
58 520 60 77, www.sofitel-grand-sopot.com. Open
13:00 - 22:30. (40-90z). TUEGBSW
Restaurants
MEDITERRANEAN
SENSO RESTAURANT & BAR
Jamie Oliver preparing food in Gdansk? Well yes in a way.
The Senso restaurant which youll nd attached to the
Scandic hotel has had the British television chef come up
with a special childrens menu for them and it is proving
to be a bit of a hit. Smart move really as the little angels
dont tend to go out to restaurants by themselves meaning mums and dads come along too. For the grown-ups
the menu is predominantly Mediterranean and there is
a choice of some good grilled steaks including chicken,
beef and tuna.QB-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 9 (Scandic
Gdask Hotel), Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 300 60 06, www.
restauracja-senso.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (27-73z).
TYUGSW
Modern Polish and European cuisine
Our cuisine
is cooking
with
imagination
ul. Oowianka 1, 80-751 Gdask, Reservation: +48 58 323 83 58

biuro@restauracjafilharmonia.pl, www.restauracjafilharmonia.pl
MEXICAN
FILHARMONIA
One of the top three restaurants in Poland, claims
one reader, and were not arguing. What was once a
municipal power plant has been given a reviving shot
and features a fabulous menu combining the best
Polish cuisine has to oer with the latest molecular
techniques in food science. Choices here vary with the
season, though the truth is theres simply no such thing
as a bad meal. In good weather take the chance to dine
on the rooftop terrace, home to knock-dead views of
Gdasks steepled skyline. Alternatively, head indoors to
a breathtaking interior of red brick walls and theatrical
murals. Its recommended you make a reservation beforehand.QD-3, ul. Oowianka 1, Gdask, tel. (+48)
58 323 83 58, www.restauracjafilharmonia.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00. (36-75z). TYUGBSW
PANORAMA
While not exactly the height of dining in the conventional sense, it is the (maximum) height to dine at in the
city. Negotiate the oce building security and climb to
16th oor of that green oce block near the railway
station where youll nd a pretty decent set of Polish
staples such as zurek, chicken de vollaile and pierogi.
Worth a visit for a sightseeing tour and grub in one
place. Pop yourself in the right-hand room overlooking
the shipyard, order up a couple of vodkas and salute
whats left of the birthplace of Solidarity before its
redeveloped.QB-1, ul. Way Piastowskie 1, Gdask,
tel. (+48) 58 307 42 51, www.panoramarestauracja.
pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 22:00. (23-59z). TGSW
PUEBLO
Pueblo is one of the few restaurants in the country (its
sister restaurant in Gdynia being one of the others) where
Tex-Mex cuisine doesnt get the equivalent of the re extinguisher treatment prevalent in so many ethnic diners.
The burritos are the real deal (not a cabbage in sight), and
while the house salsa is weak meals come accompanied
by a selection of bottled sauces imported straight from
Latin America - some of them could knock the spots o a
cow. A smart pricing policy means the cocktails are some
of the best value youll nd in town. Also at ul. Abrahama
56, Gdynia (entrance from ul. Wadysawa IV, N-2).QB-4, ul.
Koodziejska 4, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 322 24 70, www.
restauracjapueblo.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. (25-55z). TGBSW
THE MEXICAN
Known to some as The Menace, and thats on account of a
kitchen responsible for foul oerings made of cabbage and
ketchup - interiors look authentic enough, and theres no
doubting its a decent place for a drink, but the food here is
apologetic at best. Weirdly, this place is a nationwide sensation, and clear evidence that Poland can still go wrong.
QM-4, ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 54, Sopot, tel.
(+48) 515 10 14 14, www.mexican.pl/sopot. Open 11:30
- 01:00. From September open 13:30 - 24:00. From November 13:30 - 23:00. (19-50z). 6UEGBSW
POLISH
KARCZMA IRENA
An inn-style restaurant where tourists and locals consume big helpings of hearty Polish food at solid wooden
tables surrounded by Halberds, paintings of trolls and
even a winged Hussar. Loved by many, the only improvement would be the addition of silver goblets and obliging
wenches. A very recommendable local experience.QM-4,
ul. Chopina 36, Sopot, tel. (+48) 512 51 69 10, www.
pensjonat-irena.com. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (24-35z).
T6GSW
Absolutely amazing to have dinner at this restaurant...

We also provide Catering services.
KARCZMA POLSKA ZAGRODA
Destroyed by a huge re in the spring of 2011 the Karczma
rose from the ashes and the menu and atmosphere are
just as good as they ever were. Probably the best option
in Sopot for that traditional country Polish dining experience so the 15z cab fare out to it from the centre is well
worth the investment. Expect friendly and competent service (some might say that was worth the cab fare alone)
which brings very good and very lling portions of pork
knuckle (Golonka), pork cutlets, bigos et al for you to enjoy
at your wooden bench seating with its faux animal fur covers. RecommendedQL-5, Al. Niepodlegoci 625, Sopot,
tel. (+48) 58 550 72 59, www.karczmazagroda.pl. Open
12:00 - 23:00. (16-48z). TUGBS
PIEROGARNIA PIEROEK
The portside block in which its located might not be the
most attractive but do not let that put you o. The interior
is beautifully decorated and is warm and inviting but thats
not the reason we recommend you head here. If you want
to try local cuisine there is nothing more Polish than pierogi
(meat, vegetable or fruit lled dough pockets which come
either boiled or baked)and this has to be one of the best
pierogarnia weve come across anywhere. The Mexican
themed pierogi with minced beef, beans and corn were excellent but friends also rave about the Ruskie (cheese) and
the fruit options on oer. Recommended.QO-1, Al. Jana
Pawa II 11A, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 95 67. Open 11:00
- 20:00. (10-20z). T6GBSW
PIEROGARNIA U DZIKA
To the uninitiated a dzik is local lingo for boar. And not
only has the owner included the noble dzik in the name,
hes included these little guys in the design. Where do
boars go when they die, to this place of course, where the
proprietor has them skinned, stued and nailed to every
surface available. Stranger still, the absence of anything
resembling boar on the menu - work that one out. This
place has dedicated itself to pierogi, and the ones here are
quite simply the best in the biz. If you dont mind dead
animals staring reproachfully at you, then knock yourself
out.QC-4, ul. Piwna 59/60, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 305 26
76, www.pierogarniaudzika.com. Open 12:00 - 22:30.
From October open 12:00 - 22:00. (15-77z). T6G
BSW
SMAKOSZ
The Sopot dining scene is increasingly multi-cultural so this
traditional Polish eatery is a welcome sight on days where
meat and potatoes are what the doctor ordered. Overlook
the chipped tableware and youll be rewarded with good
renditions of all your favourite Polish dishes - soups, cutlets,
pierogi, pork thighs etc. and our favourite of beef goulash
on fried potato pancakes (placek po cygasku - Gypsy pancakes)QM-4, ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 41, Sopot,
tel. (+48) 58 717 12 45, www.smakoszsopot.pl. Open
08:00 - 23:00; Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. From September
open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00,
Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (23-37z). 6GBSW
51
Restaurants
Polish Food
Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and lling
and while there are now many chefs re-inventing the image of Polish cuisine you really havent had a thorough
sampling of it until youve tried all the traditional dishes
below. Most can be found at almost any Polish restaurant
or milk bar in town. Smacznego!
NALENIKI
The Polish equivalent of French crepes, these are thin pancakes wrapped around pretty much any lling you can
dream of, savoury or sweet. Generally the easy way out in
any dodgy Polish dining establishment.
PIEROGI
BIGOS
A hearty stew made in large
batches. Though there is no
standard recipe, ingredients
usually include lots of fresh
and pickled cabbage, leftover
meat parts and sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic and
whatever else is on hand. In
fact, metaphorically bigos
translates to big mess, confusion or trouble in Polish. Seasoned with peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and the kitchen sink, the stew is left to gestate for a few days for full avour
infusion. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly
measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.
Doughy dumplings traditionally lled with potato (ruskie),

sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, strawberries or plums, though if
you nose around you will nd
plenty of maverick llings like
broccoli, chocolate or liver
as the possibilities are truly
limitless and they are served
almost everywhere in the city.
PLACKI
These greasy, fried potato
pancakes are very similar to
Jewish latkes and best enjoyed with goulash on top
(placki po wgiersku or placki
po cygansku Hungarian
pancakes or Gypsy pancakes).
Highly caloric, theyre also a
tried and true hangover cure.
GOBKI
Translating to little pigeons,
this favourite dish consists
of boiled cabbage leaves
stued with beef, onion and
rice before being baked and
served in a tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend
claims King Kazimierz fed his
army gobki before a battle
outside Malbork against the
Teutonic Order, and their unlikely victory has been attributed to the hearty meal ever since.
GOLONKA
Pork knuckle or hock, as in
pigs thigh, boiled, braised,
or roasted and put before
you on a plate, typically with
horseradish sauce. A true Polish delicacy, the meat should
slip right of the bone and be
washed down with beer. Go
caveman.
SMALEC
Vegetarians who broke their
vows for a bite of sausage or a
taste of urek generally draw
the line here. An animal fat
spread full of fried lard chunks
(the more the better, we say)
and served with hunks of
homemade bread, Smalec
is a savoury snack that goes great with a mug of beer. Any
traditional Polish restaurant worth its salt should give you
lashings of this prior to your meal, or oer it as a side dish.
Photo by Zakwitnij!pl Ejdzej & Iric

Attribution-ShareAlike License
ZAPIEKANKA
Also know as Polish pizza. Take a stale baguette, pour
melted cheese on it and then cover it with mushrooms and
ketchup from a squeezy bottle. Best eaten when absolutely
plastered. Where to buy it: various fast food cabins dotted
around the city.
KIEBASA
Sausages, and in Poland shops youll nd an enormous variety, primarily made with pork but also everything from turkey to bison. A few varieties to look for include Krakowska,
a Krakow speciality which uses pepper and garlic; kabanosy
which is a thin, dry sausage avoured with caraway seed
and wiejska, a monster looking u-shaped sausage. Kiebasa
was also the nickname of one of Polands most notorious
gangland gures of the 90s.
ZUPA SOUP
Poland has two signature soups: barszcz and urek. A nourishing beetroot soup similar to Russian borscht, barszcz
may be served with potatoes tossed in, with mini-pierogi
oating in it, or with a croquette for dunking, but we prefer
to order it solo - in which case it comes simply as broth
in a mug expressly for drinking. urek is a unique sour rye
soup with sausage, potatoes and sometimes egg chucked
in, and sometimes served in a bread bowl.
TUSTA KACZKA
We have long been admirers of chef Jacek Fedde and while
naming his venture the same as Heston Blumenthals three
Michelin Star restaurant might be viewed as a tad brave,
Fedde is rightly recognised as a leading light in Polish culinary
circles. Help yourself from the range of fresh, locally produced
bread and Polish appetizers before the modern Polish dish
youve chosen arrives beautifully presented courtesy of a
friendly and professional sta. While it was a shame to destroy our wonderful pork steak on mashed potatoes and sour
cream its something we only momentarily regretted so good
was the taste.The stylish decor is classy without making you
feel you ought to have donned a dinner suit (as so many restaurants which aim high in Poland do). Find it on the edge of
the forest a few minutes from the centre of Sopot by car. Take
it from us - hail a taxi and spoil yourselfQN-6, ul. Spdzielcza
2, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 580 08 08, www.tlustakaczka.pl.
Open 13:00 - 22:00. (32-98z). TUEGBSW
U KUCHARZY
Following many years of positive reviews of a similar venture in Warsaw, U Kucharzy (literally With the chefs) is now
established in Sopot. Aside from a reputation for preparing
Polish dishes simply but imaginatively the attraction here
is the ability to sit in a room where the chefs prepare the
food while you watch. Centred around an open cooking
area a team of chefs buzz back and forth chopping, boiling, ipping and frying as you watch from the kitchen side
tables. Its never quite reached the impressive levels of its
sister restaurant in the capital described by one reader using the words chaotic..ecient..delicious.QM-4, ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 60, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 554 14 76,
www.gesslersopot.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00
- 23:00. (32-65z). T6UEGBSW
ZAPIECEK K.BITEL
A bit cafe, a bit restaurant, a bit bar. A bright and comfortable
spot on one of Sopots more attractive streets lined with prewar villas, the convivial surroundings and the friendly sta
make it the kind of place you want to like before theyve even
put anything in front of you. The menu, written up on miniblackboards, is concise oering a changing choice of salads,
soups and a few mains. Its relative seclusion means it attracts
a more local crowd and theres a lot to like including the local
Zywe beer, some good sounds in the background and some
very reasonable prices. For the record our pierogi with meat
were homemade but doused in a little too much butter for
our liking but well still be back as its a pleasant place to kick
back in peace.QB-4, ul. Garbary 2/4, Gdask, tel. (+48) 604
35 08 40, Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (19-35z).
GBS
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53
Restaurants
Restaurants
GOLDWASSER
Whrend Ihres Aufenthalts in Gdask drfen das Restaurant mit typischer Danziger
Innenausstattung, mit Danziger Kche sowie mit Danziger Brger als Bedienung nicht verpassen.
Bdc w Gdasku nie mona omin restauracji o wystroju gdaskim,
kuchni gdaskiej i by obsugiwanym przez gdaskich mieszczan.
When in Gdask dont forget those Gdask interiors style restaurants,
and make sure you are served by genuine Gdask people!
Specjalno restauracji:
potrawy kuchni starogdaskiej i midzynarodowej.
Organizujemy przyjcia okolicznociowe i spotkania towarzyskie oraz jubileuszowe.
Maria i Henryk Lewandowski
w.Ducha16/24,tel./fax+48583057671,
www.gdanska.pl,restauracja@gdanska.pl
REGIONAL
GDASKA
One of the citys longest standing restaurants has
the feel of a museum with all the armour, statuettes,
model ships and portraits of famous Gdanskians/
Danzigers. This is one of former President Lech Walesas favourite haunts and you can try his favourite
dishes by ordering his set menu which includes a
shot of strong, peppery Waswka vodka.QB-4, ul.
w. Ducha 16/24, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 305 76 71,
www.gdanska.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (16-102z).
TUEGBS
POD OSOSIEM
Gdasks most famous restaurant? Quite possibly. Its
here that Goldwasser vodka was rst distilled back in
1598 when it went under the name Der Lachs (the
Salmon) a reference to how addresses were often identied by the gure above the door. Today being run by
the third generation of the same family who took it
over after the war, Under the Salmon is where Thatcher, Bush Sr., Britains Princess Anne and Lech Walesa
among others have chosen to dine or host guests over
the years. This is signature Gdansk dining and among
the impressive local and international menu youll nd
more than a few references to its historic past with
the signature dish being the salmon with 24-carat

gold and Goldwasser. The original Goldwasser recipe
went west after the war and this is the one place in the
city where you can taste the original Der Lachs Goldwasser distilled these days in Germany.QC-4, ul. Szeroka 52-54, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 76 52, www.
podlososiem.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (60-110z).
EGBSW
METAMORFOZA
The presence of two chandeliers, tablecloths and
some plush seating might be a little intimidating
but keep going - its worth it. The menu is a work
of a creative mind and the results score top marks
from both the eyes and the stomach. The concept
here has been to take traditional local Kashubian
and Kociewian dishes and to give them a modern
touch. Of particular interest is the Tasting Menu,
which varies with the season but which on our
last visit included the duck and a dessert containing the local Goldwasser liqueur in molecular jelly
form. An interesting way to enjoy the local cuisine.QC-4, ul. Szeroka 22/23, Gdask, tel. (+48)
58 320 30 30, www.restauracjametamorfoza.
pl. Open 14:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (50-80z).
TUGW
No visit to Gdask is complete without sampling the local re water, Goldwasser vodka. Created by Ambrose
Vermollen, a Dutch migrant living in Gdask, the rst recorded mention of it dates to 1598, though it would be
years later that Vermollen would open the rst recorded
distillery, Der Lachs (The Salmon) on ul . Szeroka. His
recipe combined over 20 herbs and roots, including cardamom, coriander, juniper, cinnamon, wild orange, lavender, cloves and thyme. A clever marketing trick that
was all about appearance and nothing to do with taste,
23 carat gold leaves were added for luck, and the recipe
has since been passed down the generations, its current
owner being the German Carl Graf von Hardenberg.
can you enjoy

Only with us
asser
original Goldw
Of course, local legend is far more interesting, and if

you believe urban myth the gold akes appeared after Neptune grew increasingly irritated that the natives
were clogging up his fountain by repeatedly throwing
coins into it. Driven to despair the irked God launched
his trident into the fountain, shattering the coins into
millions of pieces. This, according to some, is why youll
nd gold pieces oating around in your bottle of Goldwasser. Story number two paints a dierent picture.
Apparently Neptune was delighted by the natives habit of throwing coins into his fountain, and decided to reward their generosity by turning the water into a tasty
alcoholic beverage. Good man. Free-loading landlords
carted the booze o by the barrel, all apart from the
do-gooding owner of Pod ososiem (The Polish for Der
Lachs). In return for his honesty, Neptune transformed
his stock of ordinary vodka into Goldwasser.
Packing an alcohol content of 40%, Goldwassers rich,
syrupy taste saw it gain popularity with Louis XIV and
Imperial Russias Catherine the Great among its fans.
Lovers of this story and the drink will be delighted to
know that the Salmon (Der Lachs) is still around and
now trades as the exclusive Pod ososiem restaurant
where you can get the original von Hardenberg Goldwasser imported from Germany. Also keep your eye
out for the German owned Goldwasser restaurant on
the waterfront which has specially produced gift sets
available to buy. On a nal note it is also said that the
gold content of Goldwasser is useful in the treatment
of back and joint conditions although it is unlikely that
this was one of its goals 400 years ago.
Our restaurant is open every day

from 12:00 until last guest
80-835 Gdask, ul. Szeroka 52/54
tel. (+48 58) 301 76 52,
fax (+48 58) 301 56 48
www.podlososiem.com.pl
info@podlososiem.com.pl
55
Restaurants
BAR POD RYB

A place which since has
been the king of the delicious
baked potato and the
delicious salad in Tri-city
Gdask, ul. Piwna 61/63 (near the Arsenal)

tel. + 48 58 305 13 07, www.barpodryba.pl
PANCAKES & QUICK EATS

ANKER
Hugely popular and always packed, with the line of locals
sometimes reaching out the door. They ock here for 14
types of pizza at bargain prices, not to mention breakfast,
soups, salads, goulash, steak and just about anything else
you can think of.QN-2, Al. Pisudskiego 50, Gdynia, tel.
(+48) 58 661 30 77, www.anker.com.pl. Open 07:30
- 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (8-18z).
TVNGSW
AMSTERDAM BAR BEER & BAGEL
Find a selection of grilled dishes, bagels, salads, sweet and
savoury pierogis and a mind-boggling choice of over 130
Polish and foreign bottled beers just o the main street -
Restaurants
Duga.QB-4, ul. Garbary 6/7, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 717
29 39, www.amsterdambar.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (1020z). UGBSW
BAR POD RYB
They may be at a dierent location, but Under the Fish
continues to serve the best lled potato in town - and at
an insanely cheap price. For between 18-26z diners get
a huge roasted potato split open and topped with one of
seven sauces and then heaped with anything from salmon
to sausage to beans or veggies; you will not walk away hungry. We sampled the gouda and bacon potato and consider
ourselves forever changed for the better. The new space
has a warm brass bar and plenty of Danzig-era signs and
paintings on the wall.QB-4, ul. Piwna 61/63, Gdask, tel.
(+48) 58 305 13 07, www.barpodryba.pl. Open 10:00 22:00. (10-30z). T6UGBSW
CUDA WIANKI
The Pancake Shop (for that is literally the meaning of
Nalenikarnia) is a bright, modern space located between the two tunnels at the top of Monte Cassino, a
small area fast becoming an oasis of good food where
once there was little more than a bakers and a dingy pub.
Choose from a menu of sweet and savoury llings as well
as some of the tastiest salads weve had the pleasure to
try in the city, order at the counter and then sit back on
the IKEA furniture for your tasty snack to appear. We have
to admit to being fans of the Mexican pancake as well
as the salads while we know children who are unable
to pass without begging for a mixed fruit pancake with
whipped cream. Delicious.QN-4, ul. Bohaterw Monte
Cassino 9, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 12 12. Open 10:00
- 22:00. From October open 10:00 - 21:00. (10-17z).
UGBSW
FANABERIA CREPES & CAFE
A summery looking creperie with a breezy, blue design
and windows that fall open to allow maximum sun. The
fruit cocktails are great, even better when the asphalt is
melting, though the real point of this place are the pancakes, fast being hailed as the best in the city.QN-1, ul.
witojaska 33/35, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 785 78 17 81,
www.nalesnikarnia-fanaberia.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00,
Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (10-18z). T6GBSW
GALERIA BATYCKA FOOD COURT

Find KFC, McDs, Burger King, North Fish, Dominium Pizza,
a vegetarian bar, a good Asian option in the food court as
well as a Pizza Hut restaurant downstairs.QF-4, Al. Grunwaldzka 141, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 521 85 50, www.
galeriabaltycka.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
UGSW
KEBABISTAN
The norths premier purveyors of Europes top booze food
oer both beef and chicken kebabs to people making their
way home from one of the many surrounding clubs and
bars.QM-4, ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 36/1, Sopot,
tel. (+48) 728 30 31 40. Open 10:00 - 05:00. From September open 10:00 - 02:00, Thu 10:00 - 03:00; Fri, Sat
10:00 - 05:00. (10-21z). 6UGBW
KFC
Also at Al. Grunwaldzka 141, Gdask (Galeria Batycka, F-4);
Al. Niepodlegoci 635/637, Sopot (L-6); ul. Bohaterw
Monte Cassino 39, Sopot (M-4) and ul. Kazimierza Grskiego 2, Gdynia (Centrum Riviera, N-2/3).QA-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 2c, Gdask, tel. (+48) 71 386 15 20, www.
kfc.pl. Open 07:00 - 03:00. From September open 07:00
- 01:00; Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00. (5-23z). TUGSW
KWADRANS
Great toasties and huge cups of tea as well as the usual
scrambled eggs and omelettes.QO-1, Skwer Kociuszki
20, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 15 92, www.bistrokwadrans.
com. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. (10-22z). TUNGBSW
MCDONALDS
Also at Al. Grunwaldzka 141, Gdask (Galeria Batycka,
F-4); ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 21, Sopot (M-3), Al.
Zwycistwa 256, Gdynia (N-6) and ul. Kazimierza Grskiego
2, Gdynia (Centrum Riviera, N-2/3) and Pl. Konstytucji 1,
Gdynia (N-1, Gdynia Gwna Train Station).QA-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 1, Gdask, tel. (+48) 694 49 59 10, www.
mcdonalds.pl. Open 04:30 - 01:00. (15-17z). TUG
SW
NALENIKOWO
If our mother had let us open up a caf at the age of eight,
it would have looked exactly like Nalenikowo: pink walls,
uy pillows lining the plush yellow bench seats, pink polka-dotted tablecloths and vases of daisies on every table.
It would probably have the same crepe-centric menu,
too, though Nalenikowo takes it a step further by oering options we couldnt conceive of. Sure theres countless
pillowy sweet crepes (banana and Nutella! Swoon!) and savoury choices like chorizo, bacon and pickles but why not
go for the exotic noodle-laden spaghetti crepe? The service
is quick and attentive - they understand that waiting for a
custard-lled crepe makes time drag - and the menu is in
English, German and Russian. Drag yourself away from busy
Duga and youll be in for a treat. Were pretty sure your inner eight-year-old will thank you as will any real ones with
Tesoro Express
ul. Bohaterow Monte Cassino 11
81-704 Sopot, tel. +48 531 04 40 04
www.restauracjatesoro.pl
New!!!
We deliver
pizza
Traditional Italian pizzeria run

with passion by Italian owners.
you when they see the childrens menu.QB-5, ul. Ogarna
125, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 682 30 82, www.nalesnikowo.
com.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00. (11-19z). You can pay in $, ,
or . T6UVGBSW
PIZZA HUT
Also at ul. witojaska 36, Gdynia (N-1) and ul. Kazimierza
Grskiego 2, Gdynia (Centrum Riviera, N-2/3).QF-4, Al.
Grunwaldzka 141 (Galeria Batycka), Gdask, tel. (+48)
713 86 24 26, www.pizzahut.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00. (10-47z). TUGSW
SUBWAY
Also at ul. Rajska 10, Gdask (Madison Shopping Centre, B-2); ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 39, Sopot (M-4);
ul. 10 Lutego 11, Gdynia (Batory, N-1) and ul. Kazimierza
Grskiego 2, Gdynia (Centrum Riviera, N-2/3).QB-4, ul.
Duga 56, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 305 46 22, www.subway.
pl. Open 08:30 - 23:00, Sun 09:30 - 22:30. (10-12z).
UGSW
TESORO EXPRESS
An excellent Italian owned pizza parlour, where your pizza
is accompanied by imported Italian soft drinks, wines, and
more often than not a little song from one of the Italian
chefs.QL-4, ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 11, Sopot, tel.
(+48) 531 04 40 04, www.restauracjatesoro.pl. Open
12:00 - 23:00. From September open 12:00 - 21:00; Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (16-38z). VGBSW
57
Restaurants
Restaurants
La Pampa Steakhouse
ul. Szeroka 32-35
and
ul. Szewska 1/4
tel. +48 797 591 212
www.lapampa.pl
RUSSIAN
KUCHNIA ROSYJSKA
Pad out your stomach lining with a visit to Kuchnia Rosyjska, a cheap, cheerful venture presenting strange mashed
dishes that defy eorts at identication. Still, the pielmieni
are good, and the service rarely goes wrong. All this in an
interior that looks like a really na gift store - lots of dolls
and unwanted craftwork. Increasingly popular since an
agreement was signed allowing the population of the
neighbouring Russian oblast of Kaliningrad to travel to
Gdansk visa-free.QC-5, ul. Dugi Targ 11, Gdask, tel.
(+48) 58 301 27 35, www.kuchnia-rosyjska.aleks.pl.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. (19-42z). T6EGBS
SPANISH
La Pampa Steakhouse guarantees that
all our steaks are made from Argentinian
Aberdeen Angus or Hereford beef and
that freshest ingredients are used when
preparing all of our dishes.
We are open everyday from 11.30 till 23.00.
Welcome!
POLISH SNACKS & SHOTS

A very Polish phenomenon these days is the 24-hour
snack and shot bar. Known locally as Zakski Przekski
(literally Appetisers & Snacks), or Polish Tapas as its
been dubbed by some, these trendy, formulaic budget
bars cash in on communist nostalgia and the appeal of
low prices by oering a small selection of simple, local appetisers (typically served cold) for about 8z each,
with drinks typically xed at 4z. The menu reads like a
list of correct answers to the Jeopardy question Foods
that follow vodka and typically includes ledz (pickled
herring in oil), galaretka (pig trotters in jelly), kiebasa
(sausage), pierogi, pickles and tartare. Some bars have
reduced the size of the drink for 4zl so its not cheaper
at all. Look for at least a 0.4ltr to make sure youre getting the best deal.
Photo by Karol Grzenia
PATIO ESPAOL
A very attractive looking venue in a new development
which is helping attract people onto the previously quiet
ul. Szeroka. With the car parked outside we were forced to
reluctantly skip the wine list which caught our eye and settled instead for a selection of Tapas and a seafood paella for
two, both of which were delicious. The menu features other
attractive dishes and a scan of neighbouring tables suggests that we werent the only ones to leave happy.QC-4,
ul. Tandeta 1 (entrance on ul. Szeroka), Gdask, tel. (+48)
58 573 34 11, www.patioespanol.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (25-70z). TUGBSW
BIAE WINO I OWOCE

Late night eats Polish style. Drop by this great little bar/
diner to fortify yourself with tastier than they sound
dishes like cold legs (pork in jelly), white sausage, herring or tripe washed down with 5zl vodkas or bottles of
regional beer. The atmosphere is always jovial, seeing as
most of the clientele have already fortied themselves
in the neighbouring bars and clubs and this is a perfect
way to oset that inevitable hangover.QM-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 4-6, Sopot, tel. (+48) 605 40 73 70, www.
bialewinoiowoce.pl. Open 11:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 05:00. GW
PIJALNIA WDKI I PIWA
The drinking room, as it roughly translates, comes into
its own as people head out for the night and you can
expect to nd this packed well into the night as revellers begin to crawl home. Filled with old bits and bobs
like transistor radios and communist era posters, most of
the clienteles experience of Communism will have come
exclusively from the history books or their parents, which
helps explain why the atmosphere is always lively. Pijalnia
and the student budget were made for each other and
this is a recommended stop for a night cap and a bit of
soakage.QC-5, Dugi Targ 35/38/B/C (entrance from
ul. Kunierska), Gdask, tel. (+48) 530 76 69 45. Open
09:00 - 05:00. NGBW
TAPAS DE RUCOLA
Combining the trendiness of Polands current przekski
zakski phenomenon with the exoticness of Spanish Andalusia, this casual tapas bar has quickly developed into one
of Sopots most fashionable destinations. Serving an array
of Andalusia-inspired and authentic small tasting dishes,
all for 9z each, a friendly mix of customers nibble away at
chorizo sausages and Serrano ham while slugging down
Spanish wines and the excellent, local Zote Lwy (Golden
Lions) or Zywe beer on draft. With a colourful interior of
imitation-Picasso mural art and a carefree atmosphere,
Tapas really packs out after siesta, particularly on weekends when the party lasts long into the morning.QM-4,
ul. Puaskiego 15, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 710 55 01, www.
tapassopot.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
(9-60z). 6GBSW
STEAK
CRUDO
An extremely smart space with steak as the cornerstone
of the menu. Found a little way up Monciak towards the
church, Crudos single-sided menu comes presented on
a wooden board oering ve types of steak including a
salmon option. We could talk about the chowder or the
beefburger option but that would be to miss the attraction of the place which is the steak. Cooked as requested
(not a given in many places), the 300g of beef was very
good, served with caramelised onions and hand-cut fries

and washed down with a glass of red wine which complemented the food perfectly. Recommended both as a
place to take the important business client or simply as a
place to get back to carnivorous basics.QM-4, ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 36/2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 573 22
60, www.crudogrill.com. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (35-90z).
UGBW
NEW
LA PAMPA STEAKHOUSE
La Pampa are clearly doing such a great job that theyve
expanded into a new venue right outside the front door of
St Marys Basilica. And good luck to them. The friendly sta
welcome you to the restaurant by explaining the concept
of the menu - in a nutshell were talking steak - a choice of
prime round, rump, rib-eye or llet beef prepared to order
on a open grill. There are other dishes to choose from including the La Pampa specialties which feature skewers of
meats, onions and peppers as well as pork, chicken and sh
dishes and huge salads but the draw here is the steak. The
Argentinean llet was cooked to perfection and was complimented by the additional sides of fried vegetables and
potatoes which came mixed with bacon and onions. There
is a decent selection of wines as well to pair with your meal.
Also at ul. Szeroka 32/35, Gdask (C-4).QC-4, ul. Szewska
1/4, Gdask, tel. (+48) 798 19 71 97, www.lapampa.pl.
Open 11:30 - 23:00. (26-88z). UGBSW
59
Restaurants
AUTHENTIC INDIAN
KHMER AND
THAI CUISINE
IN THE HEART
OF THE OLD TOWN
THAI RESTAURANT
BUDDHA
tel. 58 322 00 44
ul. Duga 18/21
Gdask
www.buddhalounge.pl
Restaurants
THAI
VEGETARIAN
BUDDHA LOUNGE
The limitations on the Gdask culinary scene are demonstrated in the serious lack of choice for ethnic food
in the old town. Buddha is therefore up there as one of
your best options and with authentic Asian chefs in the
kitchen the results are pretty decent. Choose from a range
of Asian dishes, not just limited to Thai while seated in a
colourful and cosy room overlooking the main pedestrian
street in the centre of the old town. A top summer garden, a professional and courteous sta and an adjacent
late night cocktail bar keep this place constantly busy.
QB-4, ul. Duga 18/21, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 322 00 44,
www.buddhalounge.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (16-49z).
TUXSW
GREEN WAY
Polands undisputed masters of vegetarian and wholefood
cooking provide monster portions of always edible and sometimes sublime food with lashings of brown rice and salad in a
restaurant the size of a hotel bathroom. Outside seating helps
avoid a crush during the warmer months, plus there are other
outlets around town. Also at ul. Garncarska 4/6, Gdask (B-3);
ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 47, Sopot (M-4); ul. Pisudskiego
56, Gdynia (N-2) and ul. Abrahama 24, Gdynia (N-1).QB-4, ul.
Duga 11, Gdask, www.greenway.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00;
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. From September open 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 11:00 - 19:00. (9-15z). UGB
LAO THAI
An extremely good Thai restaurant which boasts
views over the river and Philharmonic building. Chef
Pongthep Aroonsang is in charge in the kitchen
where he prepares very tasty classics of Lao-Thai cuisine which come with just the right amount of spice
(not always a given in ethnic eateries in Poland). A
recommendable destination if youve had enough of
the local cuisine and want to put a bit of spice back
in your diet.QD-3, ul. Targ Rybny 11, Gdask, tel.
(+48) 797 33 40 00, www.laothai.pl. Open 12:00
- 23:00. From September open 12:00 - 22:00. (2450z). 6GBSW
GOOD MORNING VIETNAM

Located halfway along Gdynias main boulevard, ul.
witojaska, this is one of the best options for ethnic eating in the city. The menu is reasonably concise but oers
more than enough for you to something youll like while
prices are pitched in the 20-40zl bracket meaning that
there is a constant ow of trade. The restaurant has a eastern feel without going overboard on the paraphernalia and
the sta are friendly and prompt. The places biggest plus
however is the quality of the ingredients with fresh vegetables while the duck and the chicken were both excellent
making this well worth recommending for both quality
and value.QN-1, ul. witojaska 83a, Gdynia, tel. (+48)
58 711 30 30, www.goodmorningvietnam.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (23-34z). GS
PANAYA
A central location, overlooking the church and the
square at the top of Monte Cassino paired with an attractive looking choice of dishes make this an interesting option. The menu is comprehensive with Thai
favourites such as Pad Thai making an appearance as
well a good Tom-Yam-Kung soup and spicy duck with
basil and chilli. While prices are not cheap by (Polish
standards at least) they are competitively priced and it
was cheering be served by friendly and welcoming staff.
A couple of imported Singha beers no doubt helped
us enjoy the visit as well.QL-4, ul. Bohaterw Monte
Cassino 31, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 717 48 24, www.
panayathairestaurant.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (1955z). UVGBSW
THAI THAI
Our favourite Thai restaurant to emerge in Sopot. Set
on the ground floor of a design hotel this venue has
it all, from a sexy swagger to an award winning chef
- thats S. Changpuen. Dine on exotic noodle and wok
dishes inside a fine interior embellished with Buddhas. Certainly not the cheapest meal around, but
certainly one of the best, with the green chicken curry
winning particular praise.QM-4, ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 63, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 11 00, www.
thaithai.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:30. (39-72z). TUG
BSW
The Only
Authentic
Thai and
Lao Food
in Gdask
ul. Targ Rybny 11
tel. +48 58 305 25 25
cell +48 797 334 000
info@laothai.pl
www.laothai.pl
VIETNAMESE
BRUNCH
MERA SPA HOTEL BRASSERIE
The in-house brasserie of the Mera Spa hotel primarily
serves guests with well-prepared dishes with a Mediterranean accent, in smart surroundings close to the
beach and with an attractive outdoor seating area. It
gets a mention here for two things - Sunday brunch
and its outdoor BBQ. Like Michael and Janet Jackson
once upon a time, youll never see the two in the same
place at the same time. Brunches run on Sundays
from October to May. You can spend the whole day
at Mera with the family for one price which gives you
access all areas and as much as you can eat or drink
once the brunch starts. In the summer months the
brunches take a back seat and they unveil their huge
outdoor BBQ and smoker which serves up excellent
grilled meats and sh and you can even order the sh
to be smoked to take home. QM-6, ul. Bitwy Pod
Powcami 59, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 766 60 21, www.
meraspahotel.pl. Brunch served on Sundays from
October 13:00 - 17:00. Brunches 105z per person
(children under 5 years free, children 5 - 12 years
52,50z). TUGW
Sa was dee ka
Welcome to PANAYA Thai Restaurant ...
ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 31, 81-767 SOPOT

tel. 58 717-48-24 tel. 796-338-979
e-mail: panaya.restaurant@gmail.com
www.facebook.com/PanayaThaiRestaurant
www.panayathairestaurant.com
61
Cafs
Cafs
MODY BYRON
Located inside the historic Dworek Sierakowskich, this
small cafe and bar has an intimate, modern feel, as well
as an arty resident crowd appreciative of both the adjacent gallery and the weekend cultural happenings: poetry evenings, concerts, the whole shebang - take it all in
with a glass of Ciechan, one of Polands proudest beers. In
season the shaded garden out back with its deck chairs
scattered inside an area guarded by photos of old Sopot
plays host to occasional open-air theatre while in winter
it is a cosy and secluded place to pass the day.QM-4,
ul. Czyewskiego 12, Sopot, tel. (+48) 796 27 76 28,
www.tps-dworek.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00. TEGB
Theere
res many
annyy pl
place
ac s wher
her you can buy ice cream in Gdask. But theres only one Lody MI
here
There is now a huge choice when it comes to a cup of coffee and while we list dozens of dierent cafes online, were
forced by space issues to focus on those oering a little
extra here. If youre looking for your standard chain coee
experience youll nd that easily enough nowadays with
Coeeheaven, Costa and of course Starbucks all present. If
you want more than just a cup of Joe take a look at the
selection below where youll also nd a few tips for where
to get an ice cream.
CAFE KAMIENICA
Drink under the gables and gargoyles of Mariacka in this
standout caf/bar, a boho space set on two levels. Consisting of strip-wood oors and arty loot this is a place
not short on charm and, when the weather is warmer
one of the biggest and best terraces in Gdask. Winter
or summer, there are few more atmospheric places for a
coee or beer.QC-4, ul. Mariacka 37/39, Gdask, www.
cafekamienica.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00; Fri, Sat 10:00
- 24:00. From September open 11:00 - 22:00; Fri, Sat
11:00 - 24:00. GW
CHWILA
Chwila means moment in Polish and youll nd it underneath its sister establishment of that name in the Infobox
building. The draw here is the selection of freshly made
breads, quiches, sandwiches and desserts which combined
with its central location make it well worth taking a chwila
to stop by.QN-1, ul. wietojaska 30 (Infobox), Gdynia,
tel. (+48) 58 623 34 69, www.chwilamoment.com.pl.
Open 08:00 - 20:00. T6UGBSW
GOLDWASSER COFFEE SHOP

Gold it certainly is. Walk past the narrow room selling pralines and gift sets, and duck upstairs to find
a posh cafe space primed for an afternoon sit-down
- choose from great snack options, including a tasty
gulaszowa. Very nice indeed, though the primary reason for visiting is the small list of old local liqueurs,
the recipes for which were painstakingly researched
and recreated by the owner, as well as some great
wine including the house fave: Grauer Burgunder
Blanc. German Chancellor Angela Merkel, clearly an
avid reader of In Your Pocket, choose Cafe Goldwasser
to spend a relaxing time discussing business with Polish President Bronislaw Komorowski on a visit to the
city.QC-5, ul. Dugi Targ 28/29, Gdask, tel. (+48)
58 320 90 12, www.goldwasser.pl. Open 08:00 20:00. NGS
PIES I RA
BBest described as a cafe with very good homemade food youll find a menu of panini, sandwiches, salads, tarts and humus as well as a changing
menu of a couple of hot dishes (on our last visit a
very good chilli con carne) which adds to the decor
by exhibiting the work of local artists. Well worth
a visit. An arrow marks the hidden toilet light by
the way so you wont need to grope around in the
dark like an idiot as we did..QC-3, ul. Grobla III
1/6d (entrance from ul. witojaska), Gdask,
tel. (+48) 795 79 50 83. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00. From September 09:00 - 19:00.
T6UGBSW
cafe and restaurant
More than just sweets!
LOOKIER CAFE & RESTAURANT

An extremely smart cafe on Gdansks main street
recommendable for the concise but impressive
menu of salads and light meals. The ability to get
something to eat that was tasty, light and wellpriced would normally be enough of a draw for
us, but there are two additional boons here. Firstly
a good selection of breakfast sandwiches which is
a pleasant change from the typical roll + cheese+
ham/salmon breakfast offering. Secondly the cakes.
Delicious.QC-4, ul. Duga 39, Gdask, tel. (+48)
514 92 59 39, www.lookiercafe.pl. Open 08:00 22:00. 6GBSW
DOMEK EROMSKIEGO (EROMSKI HOUSE)

With a small square and a house named after him, Stefan
eromski (1864-1925) is one of the more prominent names
youll see in the city. The fact that Zeromski was born in
Warsaw and spent the majority of his life elsewhere should
tell you a lot as much about Gdynias need to create local
heroes in its early years of existence as it does about the
importance of the man to Polish culture. Born in Warsaw
during the time of the Partitions, eromski spent most of
his life either around Warsaw, in the south of the country,
or abroad including Switzerland where he worked as a librarian in the Polish Museum in Rapperswil. Throughout
his life eromski was dedicated to the restoration of the
Polish state and although it wasnt until he was in his late
thirties that he could begin to live from writing he made a
lasting impression and became regarded as the conscience
of Polish literature. He is fondly remembered in these parts
as after Poland regained its freedom in 1918, eromski
came and lived here, in Orlowo, for a while in the 1920s.
He was nominated for the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1924
and awarded an apartment in the Royal Castle in Warsaw
in 1925. Youll nd a selection of works on display in the
small museum and cafe of his name, as well as an interesting photographic diary of Orowo through history. You
wont need more than 15 minutes to peruse the Polish language displays, after which its only sensible you conclude
your visit with a cuppa in the cafe.QO-6, ul. Orowska 6,
Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 622 22 20, www.tawernaorlowska.
pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. T6GS
ul. Duga 39
80-828 Gdask
e-mail: info@lookiercafe.pl
tel. + 48 514 925 939
www.lookiercafe.pl
Open 8:00 - 22:00
Weekends open until last guest
63
Cafs
Cafs
Pikawa is located in the centre of Old Town Gdask on Piwna Street. Visit this cosy and intimate caf where you can enjoy fine coffee,
excellent tea from a fairytale forest and unique desserts that will satisfy both the palate and the aesthetic experience of every person.
Pikawa | ul. Piw na 14/15, 80-831 Gda sk | tel. 58 304 14 88 | w w w.pikawa.pl
PIKAWA
The perfect caf to wile away an afternoon sipping on a
latte or discreetly downing a lavish dessert, Pi Kawa has the
soft lighting and mismatched furniture that creates instant
atmosphere. The perfect hideout from the throngs that
crowd nearby Duga, especially when only szarlotka (traditional Polish apple dessert) will do.QC-4, ul. Piwna 14/15,
Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 304 14 88, www.pikawa.pl. Open
10:00 - 23:00. 6UGBSW
PRZYJACIKI CAFE
A tiny spot which makes the most of the limited space
by squeezing a selection of cushioned seating onto three
levels decorated with fresh owers. If its peace and quiet
MONCIAK
One may wonder why Sopots main street, Bohaterw
Monte Cassino (The Heroes of Monte Cassino), carries the name of an Italian town. The truth is that it
commemorates one of the proudest achievements in
modern Polish military history. In 1943 the Allies, after a
successful invasion of Sicily, moved to the continent. It
seemed nothing could stop them until they approached
a mountain range on the way to Rome. The area was occupied by the Germans defending what was called the
Gustav Line, at the heart of which lay Monte Cassino. The
battle that followed was actually a series of four intense
battles which took place between January 20 and May
18, 1944, culminating at a 1,300-year-old Benedictine
monastery on the top of the 1,100 metre Monte Cassino.
Involving British, US, French, North African, New Zealand,
Ghurkha and Polish troops, erce ghting raged against
the Germans on a slow and brutal advance towards the
monastery. At a cost of over 25,000 lives the nal battle ended on the morning of May 18 when a reconnaissance group of soldiers from the Polish 12th Podolian
Uhlans Regiment nally fought their way through to the
completely devastated monastery. The Battle of Monte
Cassino was won, the Gustav Line broken and the Allied
advance on Rome continued. Today it is one of Polands
most famous streets, frequently clogged in high season,
and fondly known as Monciak to the locals.
youre looking for this ts the bill perfectly and alongside

the delicious homemade cakes (try the cheesecake - its excellent) theres also a tasty selection of pancakes, salads and
sandwiches available as well as one of the better breakfasts
in town. With the removal of the car parking spaces outside to allow the premises along here to have a summer
garden this year, this could be just the spot far enough
away from the madding crowds.QM-4, ul. Haffnera 7/9,
Sopot, tel. (+48) 608 50 98 08, www.przyjaciolki-cafe.pl.
Open 09:00 - 22:00. From September open 10:00 - 21:00.
6GB
RETRO CAFE
A stylish cafe in the shadow of St. Marys Basilica, the retro
should conjure up images of handsome and comfortable
furniture with black and white prints of old Gdask rather
the hippy collection of old plastic furniture you might think.
Youll nd a comprehensive range of tea, smoothies, chocolate and a specially selected coees along with their signature item - cakes. Find a delicious range of cheesecakes and
tarts which are all home baked using high quality ingredients. The perfect place to take a break from sightseeing
in the old town.QC-4, ul. Piwna 5/6, Gdask, tel. (+48)
665 21 79 65. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00.
T6GS
ROTUNDA CAFE
An extremely smart cafe/bar located in the Resort House
(Dom Zdrojowy). Rotunda has a relaxed atmosphere and
friendly sta but what makes it worth recommending,
particularly on sunnier days, are the window tables and
the terrace outside. Overlooking the gardens leading to
the pier and the pier itself, you might expect this to be an
exclusive area for guests of the hotel which it isnt. Instead
its an excellent place to relax with a coee or drink while
you take a break from breathing in all that fresh sea air.
Open from breakfast, a coee and one of their delicious
cakes cost a surprisingly small 5 Euros, while youll also nd
a range of salads, sandwiches and desserts on oer. Then
as the day moves into evening it becomes a great place
for pre-meal drinks with a bar sta well schooled in the
craft of the cocktail.QM-4, ul. Powstacw Warszawy
10 (Sheraton Sopot Hotel), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 767
19 60, www.sheraton.pl/sopot. Open 08:00 - 23:00.
UGBW
ICE CREAM
If you have a strong sweet tooth and ice cream is
your particular favourite, buckle up: Poland will seem
like paradise. Its hard to walk more than half a block
without seeing a sign - or better yet, a large breglass
likeness - promoting soft serve ice cream cones or avoured ice creams.
If you see a sign for lody (the ubiquitous Polish word
for ice cream) youre in luck, but youve also got some
serious decisions ahead of you. Do you choose lody
amerykaskie, which is the tall, skinny and icy version (and also not like any American soft serve weve
ever had)? Or the lody woskie, which is a creamier
and squatter version? Not to mention they all come
with various avour and coating options, making the
selection a veritable mathematical nightmare. And
then there are the ice cream stands selling delicious avoured ices by the scoop. Pay for the number of scoops
you want and then run wild. Ices usually run for 2z a
scoop or 5 or 6z per cone, depending on the size.
ESKIMO
This place has absolutely nothing to do with Gunter
Grass whose books are all about this district, but it is
recommended as a great spot to sample homemade ice
cream, served using a system and in surroundings that
will give you a picture of the communist Peoples Republic of Poland. Decide on the number of scoops that you
want, hand over your money through the little window
in the wall and then hand your token to the white-coated lady and pick your avours. Delicious ice cream and
a local legend.QF-3, ul. Stanisawa Wyspiaskiego 22,
Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 341 89 10. Open 10:00 - 19:30.
From September open 10:00 - 19:00. NS
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DLUGI TARG 28/29
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While the Old Town is full of ice cream parlours claiming
to the best, the best ice cream in town sits outside the
madness keeping absolutely schtum. This place has been
serving up icy desserts since the days when ice cream
was practically the only luxury in town. Look for the locals lined up outside, enter via the knackered shop front,
and then point out whatever you desire. Highly recommended for both wonderful ice cream and the chance to
view a piece of 1970s Poland.QD-3, ul. Sukiennicza 18,
Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 93 91. Open 10:00 - 21:00.
From September open 10:00 - 19:00. NS
65
Nightlife
Nightlife
BARS & PUBS
AMSTERDAM BAR BEER & BAGEL
Local bottled brews have made a huge leap forward in the
last couple of years thanks in no small part to places like this
which are prepared to snub the major brewers and stock
independent brewers in depth (over 130 bottled beers available). The broadcast of live sports means its a good option for
watching the match with a beer as well.QB-4, ul. Garbary
6/7, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 717 29 39, www.amsterdambar.
pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00. UGBW
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welll.
There was a time when Gdansks nightlife seemed a bit

limited but thats changing. While Sopot is still recognised
as the Tri-citys party town there are more than enough
good bars and the odd club which will keep you in the old
town. That said Sopot is the centre of Tri-city and summer
Polands nightlife and the weekends in particular see it turn
into one huge party zone. Most of the action is centred
around the main drag, Monte Cassino and many clubs will
apply a cover charge - expect to pay 10-30z to get into the
better ones. Gdynia has a fair selection of options and while
most of the nightlife is concentrated near the sea around
Al. Jana Pawa and Skwer Kociuszki, there are a bunch of
less rowdy bars worth searching out.
LOCAL
Try the beers brewed on-site at Brovarnia or the locally
brewed juice at Cafe Goldwasser and Amsterdam Bar.
For a taste of local hedonism, and a cross-section of the
weirdest characters in Gdansk, then ght through the
crowds who gather at Cafe Absinthe. Sopot has a reputation, amongst others, as being the seaside capital for the
countrys artist crows and their HQ was famously Spatif.
Were no great fans but there probably isnt a nightspot
which is more Sopot. Another legendary venue, this time
in Gdynia is Desdemona, a magnet for anyone with literary and artistic pretensions.
COUPLES
For something really picturesque take an evening stroll
down ul. Mariacka and stop for a nightcap in Cafe Kamienica. On Monte Cassino try the Blue Poodle, aka Bkitny
Pudel, an atmospheric, antiquarian bar which comes into
its element as evening draws in. For a romantic nightcap

with views over the pier and gardens take a drink on the
terrace of Rotunda Cafe. Or for a glass of wine, head to
Cyrano et Roxane, a rail-side cottage overseen by a
Frenchman. You dont have to be on a hot date to enjoy
Srodmiescie which oers a good selection of food to help
your date go well.
SPECIAL
Go ve star and take drinks in the Hiltons rooftop bar High
5 as you stare out over the river. Alternatively in Sopot the
Sotel Grand has hosted names as diverse as Omar Sharif
and Marlene Dietrich over the years. Follow in their footsteps by taking cocktails in the hotel bar, Le Bar with gardens leading to the nearby beach.
ALL NIGHT
Sopot is the capital of the all-nighter. Greet dawn on the
beach by drinking in Atelier or mix with the fashionista
Unique. Step the citys signature building, the Crooked
House, and take your pick from the selection of late night
bars and clubs found upstairs there including the recommended Dream Club.
BKITNY PUDEL (THE BLUE POODLE)

Possibly the most underrated bar in town especially considering it sits in the centre of the citys nightlife quietly
minding its own business. The Blue Poodle is a bit like entering an old living room (one with cobbled ooring mind)
lled with springy armchairs, Grandfather clocks and old
pictures and mirrors on the wall. Add to that toilets which
have been decorated by local artists and the overall eect
feels pleasingly eccentric. Visit at night and the place generates a sleazy decadence thats just ripe for beery whisperings.QM-4, ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 44, Sopot, tel.
(+48) 58 551 16 72, www.blekitnypudel.pl. Open 09:00
- 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 05:00. YGBW
BUDDHA LOUNGE
One of the few decent pre-club spots in the old town with a
midnight blue design and some velvety seats. A great (seasonal) terrace on the main street is a great place to sit back
with a beer while the food (see restaurants) is some of the best
ethnic cuisine in the city. A cunning piece of design also means
that the bar is smoking which makes it unique for the centre
of town. Friendly sta, late opening hours and a laid back atmosphere make this worth a stop on your way around the old
town.QB-4, ul. Duga 18/21, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 322 00
44, www.buddhalounge.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UXW
Wheres the party?

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BROVARNIA
Quite possibly our favourite microbrewery in Poland, which
is by no means the empty award you might think. The
beers - including an award winning dark beer are brewed
on-site - are faultless, while the smoking ban does its bit
to really exaggerate the pungent smell of malt and hops.
Found in a restored granary building, this pub features
stout wooden ttings, black and white pics of dockside
Danzig, and small little hatches that allow beams of sunlight to slant inside. Even better, if your head goes boom
after eight of their lagers then just check into the excellent
Hotel Gdask upstairs.QD-4, ul. Szafarnia 9, Gdask, tel.
(+48) 58 320 19 70, www.brovarnia.pl. Open 13:00 24:00. UEGBW
LADS
The secret to surviving a nightout in the Tri-city is pace. Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel and many bars and clubs
stay open until dawn. And gentlemen be particularly careful if you somehow nd yourself in a strip club. One in particular has been hitting the headlines after a string of customers accused them of charging astronomical amounts to
their credit cards. Be careful.
67
Nightlife

CAF ABSINTHE
Penetrate the greenish fog and nd a basic space with
tables and chairs squeezed in at all angles occupied by a
collection of what can only be described as true pub legends including the occasional one-eared Absinthe drinker,
a midget, after-work cabaret dancers and visiting sailors. By
day a great place to eavesdrop on foreign language teachers involved in intense conversation, by night a choice
place to cut loose the shackles of sobriety by working
through the range of local brews chalked up on the boards.
QB-4, Targ Wglowy (Teatr Wybrzee), Gdask, tel.
(+48) 58 320 37 84, www.cafeabsinthe.pl. Open 10:00 04:00. UGBW

Wt'

&
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/dD
>>
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CAFE STRYCH
This shermans cottage, whose address is a bit misleading
(youll nd it set back from the road by going down ul. Zeromskiego), is an unique experience and a soothing relief
from the sepia blocks outside. Full of shambolic charm the
interior presents a cavalcade of antique trinkets and oddities, including muskets, grandfather clocks and dolls with
scary glass eyes. On the colder nights the cast-iron stove
generates a warming glow which only serves to heighten
the atmosphere. Friendly sta makes it one of our favourite places in Gdynia.QO-1, Pl. Kaszubski 7b, Gdynia,
tel. (+48) 58 620 30 38, www.cafestrych.pl. Open 12:00
- 01:00. From September 13:00 - 01:00. YUEG
BW
COCTAIL BAR MAX SOPOT
Stock up on aspirin, youll be needing it. Featuring a remarkable choice of booze this air-conned beach bar has spirits
from everywhere stacked around a central display by the
bar: the higher you look the more premium they are. The
standout feature, however, is the fruit cocktail menu - tons
of fresh fruit squashed and squeezed into rainbow coloured
alcoholic and non-alcoholic bliss. The artistry involved does
lead to wait-times, but the young, hip sta make it worth
the while. A great place to kick o the night before heading
into one of the neighbouring clubs.QM-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 1-3, Sopot, tel. (+48) 691 13 00 00, www.barmax.pl.
Open 09:00 - 05:00. From October open 09:00 - 03:00;
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 05:00. UGBW
DESDEMONA
Saddle up to the long copper-plated bar, or else take to one
of the tables to drink under the green glow of a bankers
light. Always humming with activity, Desdemona is a way
of life for the failed playwrights and in-between-job actors
who ponce around looking profound. We love it.QN-1,
ul. Abrahama 37, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 888 72 54 80. Open
12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00.
UXW
Wt'
t/s'
FLISAK 76
A popular bar frequented by a friendly crowd on a less
touristy Gdask street. Not much to look at, the reason to
head to this underground bar is the choice of bottled Polish
beer by popular local brewery Amber Browar and the new
www.buddhalounge.pl
Gdask ul.Duga 18
tel. 58 322 00 45
Nightlife
Buddha Lounge Restaurant & Bar

The longest opening hours in the old town
One of the very few places in the old town with a smoking area
list of old-school cocktails (theres also an outdoor garden

for those who prefer sunshine). Weve long recommended
Sopot as the place to spend evenings to experience bars
like this, but this area of Chlebnicka is re-addressing the
balance with this one of the leading exponents.QC-4, ul.
Chlebnicka 9/10, Gdask, tel. (+48) 509 99 48 54. Open
15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00. GBW
HARD ROCK CAFE
Hard Rock are known for the food, cocktails and rock memorabilia but the best ones weve been in are the ones who
remember they got into this game originally because of
music. And when we say music we of course mean rock
music. Theres a small stage for large performances and
what appears to be a decent sound system. Newly opened
as we went to press well be interested to see if this is an
eaty HRC or a dance on your chair HRC because theyre the
best fun.QC-5, ul. Dugi Targ 35/38, Gdask, tel. (+48)
58 535 77 04, www.hardrock.com/cafes/gdansk. Open
10:00 - 02:00. UGBW
HIGH 5
Hitting the fth oor bar of the Hilton isnt unlike walking
on-set of a Ralph Lauren ad. This place is sheer class, with a
wood-deck terrace oering rooftop views of Gdask from
white wicker loungers. Dont be surprised to nd hotel
guests shuing around in snow coloured dressing gowns,
theyre fresh from dipping in the rooftop pool. Surprisingly,
somewhat, prices are kept at an aordable level, and theres
a small glass-encased bar for colder evenings. QA-4, ul.

Targ Rybny 1, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 778 74 50, www.
hiltongdansk.pl. Open 16:00 - 23:00. UGBW
JZEF K.
Its rare to see a place move out of Sopot to come to Gdansk
but thats what the folks at Jozef K. have done and it seems
to have done them no harm at all. For those familiar with
their last place, youll recognise the thrown together decor
of the place with lots of mismatched furniture and bric-abrac, and its that laid-back atmosphere which attracts a
strong crowd of all types to relax and chat while exploring the well-stocked bar in depth. The kind of place you
get comfy in and forget about the rest of your planned bar
crawl.QB-4, ul. Piwna 1/2, tel. (+48) 504 40 71 07. Open
10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. GBW
KANDELABRY
Kandelabry is not only a sta favourite, its also the place
hostel sta and Gdynians-in-the-know will send you. The
chandelier made of a hodge-podge of bottles lights the
way to a beery wonderland of impressive imports (the Belgian selection alone has 23 choices) and deeper pulls from
Poland than the typical ywiec and Tyskie options available
elsewhere. Dig into a bowl of peanuts with a fresh lager
at Kandelabry and youll easily feel like a local.QO-1, Al.
Jana Pawa II 9, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 509 91 98 84, www.
kandelabry.com. Open 15:00 - 23:00, Fri 15:00 - 02:00,
Sat 13:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. UGBW
69
Nightlife
A LITTLE OFF CENTRE
While the crowds throng the restaurants, bars and
clubs of Monte Cassino, moments away lies one of Sopots oldest and most typical streets., which as well as
being an interesting place to take a stroll, is also home
to three good and very local places to eat and drink.
CZARNA WOGA (BLACK VOLGA)
A sinister legend is attached to the name of this place
- Black Volga the Soviet limousine. It seems that in the
60s and 70s a car of this type was rumoured to cruise
eastern bloc countries abducting children for their
blood and organs which would be sold to rich westerners. Nice image. The car of the legend can be seen
painted on one of the walls of this trendy, relaxed bar
which is decorated with Communist era paraphernalia.
Drink a great choice of regional beers in the company of
a laid back crowd while music videos or the match are
projected onto the wall of one of the two rooms.QL-4,
ul. Jagiey 6/2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 789 08 10 03, www.
czarnawolgasopot.pl. Open 16:00 - 02:00. GW
STACJA SOPOT
If you want to see inside one of the splendid old villas
which make Sopot such an attractive city, then Stacja
Sopot is the place for you set in what must have been
the hallway and front room of one (take a glance at what
the neighbour is watching on television as you head up
the steps to the front door). The menu is both seasonal
and concise with a selection of pierogi and salads as
standard with a changing dish on the special seasonal
menu (in both the autumn and winter this has been
a tasty chicken and vegetable dish baked in a hotpot
style dish in the oven). The width of the selection might
not impress but the quality of whats available will and
the friendly sta, quiet location and Sopot character
make this a thoroughly recommendable place, particularly for a lunch stop.QL-4, ul. Jagiey 3/1, Sopot, tel.
(+48) 508 78 52 88, www.stacjasopot.pl. Open 12:00
- 22:00. (15-30z). T6GBSW
TUPOT MEW
A bit cafe, a bit restaurant, a bit bar. A bright and comfortable spot on one of Sopots more attractive streets
lined with pre-war villas, the convivial surroundings and
the friendly sta make it the kind of place you want to
like before theyve even put anything in front of you. The
menu, written up on mini-blackboards, is concise oering a changing choice of salads, soups and a few mains
all Polish but with a modern twist. Its relative seclusion
means it attracts a more local crowd and theres a lot to
like including the local Zywe beer, some good sounds in
the background and some very reasonable prices.QL-4,
ul. Wadysawa Jagiey 6/1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 533 64
96 85, www.tupotmew.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (19-49z). T6GBSW
Nightlife
LOFT
Were quick to endorse anywhere that oers a bottle of
Specjal for just 6z and the tequila-infused Desperados lager or cider for just 9z, but fortunately thats not all this
new pub has to recommend it. The small, square space is
relatively raw, with only surreal paintings (phallic artwork
of girls enjoying suckers, a weird mash-up of Bambi and
a gnome) to break up the bare brick wall, but somehow
it works. Bartenders write specials on the chalkboard wall
behind the bar, and the crowd appears to be young folks
who dont subscribe to the thumping club scene.QB-3,
ul. Myska 15, Gdask, tel. (+48) 604 92 78 79, www.
loftpub.pl. Open 13:00 - 24:00. UGBW
PUB PUAPKA
One street corner, three great bars. This is the third of them
(or second or best depending on the night) and it too has
followed the theme of squeezing in some basic furnishings
before spending the bulk of the investment capital on attaining an excellent choice of beer. Our favourite on our
most recent visit was the Like On It ale from Krakow, home
of the Lajkonik gure (look it up). What it and its neighbouring bars lack in toilet facilities they more than make up
for in atmosphere and that sees this quieter part of town
explode into life during the evening. Recommended.QC3, ul. Straganiarska 2, Gdask, tel. (+48) 507 85 18 49.
Open 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 04:00. GBW
MEWA TOWARZYSKA
First o lets clear up the name. Mewa means gull in Polish
so the name of this place translates as the Seagull Association. Thats that cleared up then. Found upstairs above the
popular Tapas du Rucola, this is a great little bar/club which
fairly rocks with a relaxed crowd out to enjoy not to impress.
The furnishings come in the form of bookshelves and mismatched old furniture but this just adds to the sense that
nobody here is taking anything too seriously. Great tunes,
a fridge full of Perla beer and a smoking room (closed during the summer months) mean this place stays busy until
late into the night.QM-4, ul. Puaskiego 15, Sopot. Open
Thu, Fri, Sat only 20:00 - 05:00. XW
RDMIECIE
A very attractive cafe/bar tucked away in a central Gdynia street
which attracts a friendly, fashionable crowd with its relaxed
atmosphere, tasteful design, original menu (featuring burgers
and sandwiches)and a well-stocked bar. Its the kind of place
you could spend the evening chatting away with friends or
a quiet hour in the afternoon with a book and a coee. Thoroughly recommendable and a great addition to the Gdynia
scene.QN-1, ul. Mciwoja 9, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 600 48 87 61,
www.bistrosrodmiescie.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. TGBSW
PIWIARNIA WARKA
IA cracking choice for where to eat and drink in Gdynia.
Warka is one of Polands big beer brands and this is a bar
and restaurant set up to help you enjoy as much of the
product as possible But there is so much more than the
beer. A well-prepared range of Polish mainstream dishes
like pork llet and chips, pastas, burgers and ribs help to
soak up the grog while you focus on the match on one
of the 13 screens available. Well worth the visit if you
want a relaxed place with reasonable prices to watch the
sport over a pint or two..QM-2, ul.Abrahama 64 (entrance from ul. Wadysawa IV), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58
380 05 01. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00.
EGW
PUB DUSZEK
If you like your bars to be slick, smooth and full of dressed
up dingbats ddling with iPhones then move on. Duszek is
anything but, oering instead a scrued down design thats
been fogged and stained from decades of beer and smoke
- honestly, a night here is enough to cut years o your life
expectancy. But in a country thats gone bananas for new
and neon, glitz and gits, this legendary local is something
of a standard bearer for old days Gdask. Watching Polish baries get trousered on vodka isnt everyones cup of
tea, but this place has atmosphere in spades, a kitchen,
a friendly welcome, and often raucous nights - not least
when some incompetent bashes out some notes on the
cobwebbed piano.QC-4, ul. w. Ducha 119/121, Gdask,
tel. (+48) 506 84 14 16. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 02:00. EGW
TEKSTYLIA
Cutting edge? Maybe not. But while itd be a short thumb
in London or Paris this new bar has certainly got the locals
talking - and drinking. Few if any places have been busier
during Gdasks close season, and youll nd no shortage of
good lookers both behind and in front of the bar. Big, large
windows make it perfect for people spotting, while inside
some industrial touches sit comfortably with whimsical
touches such as wire-framed corsets and some design mag
extras. Highly recommended for both pre-club drinks or afternoon chillout.QB-3, ul. Szeroka 121/122, Gdask, tel.
(+48) 58 304 77 63. Open 09:00 - 24:00. UGBW
WYDZIA REMONTOWY
A ret of the former shipyard oce building next to the famous
Gate #2 of the Gdansk (former Lenin) Shipyard has seen the
commie-era memorabilia hit the skip to be replaced by a clean,
somewhat boring look. But looks can be deceptive and its in
the blacked out, back room where youll want be if youre into
live music featuring electric guitars and ramped out speakers.
Its not big which just adds to the atmosphere and rocking
next to one of the 20th centurys most iconic locations cant be
a bad thing. Check their Facebook page for up to date event
listings details of which In Your Pocket list online.QB-1, Pl.
Solidarnoci 1, Gdask, tel. (+48) 601 68 05 87. Open 13:00
- 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. EXW
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71
Nightlife
CLUBS
ATELIER
Ever had the desire to swim naked in the Baltic after a night
getting trollied to punk anthems, 80s remixes and Euroshit dance din? Then step into Atelier, a madhouse venue
where good times are as certain as the hangover that follows. The toilets look like theyve been hit by a typhoon,
but that does nothing to stop the least preened up crowd
in Sopot having a right messy knees-up and enjoying life
to the max. Theyve actually had a recent refurb, but would
you notice?QM-3, Al. Mamuszki 2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58
555 89 06, www.klubatelier.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00; Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 05:00. From September open 15:00 - 24:00;
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. UBXW
BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE
A bar and a club is what Bollywood is popular for, both here
and in its sister club in Warsaw, and its collection of sheesha
pipes must be the best if not the only in town. A laid back
atmosphere, Bollywood lms projected onto the wall and a
DJ determined to please mean the parties go on long into
the night. The adjoining beach makes for an excellent summer chillout zone.QO-1, Al. Jana Pawa II 9-11, Gdynia,
tel. (+48) 58 380 38 39, www.bollywoodlounge.pl. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. UGBW
BUNKIER KLUBOGALERIA
Jaw-dropping. On ul. Olejarna stands a six-storey, re-enforced concrete cube built as an air-raid shelter, bunker
and anti-aircraft battery by the Germans during WWII. The
only building in the area to survive the war, for many years
it stood empty, save being used as a climbing wall, until
someone with a magnicent imagination and access to a
colossal amount of money decided to turn it into a club.
The results are as we say breathtaking. Get past the rather
large, black-suited chaps on the door and youll be met
with the original corridors anked by 1.2 metre thick walls
which lead into a labyrinth of bars, danceoors, seating
areas and some of the most fantastic toilets weve ever
seen. Each level is dierent with our favourite being the
caged seating featuring military bunks and for some reason an electric chair on level 3 or 4 (or 5 we cant be sure
in the light of day). The bars are well-stocked and manned
by friendly sta; prices are surprisingly low and the mix
of original features (lighting, exposed pipes) and artistic
touches will have you reaching regularly for your camera
phone. The musics a bit of a hotchpotch while the airconditioning has a huge job on its hands particularly seeing as theres a smoking section upstairs in the cell block.
The place is so huge that anything short of a few hundred
people makes it look virtually empty but were happy
to overlook the shortcomings and instead urge you to
visit before this becomes a legend.QC-3, ul. Olejarna 3,
Gdask, tel. (+48) 531 71 12 07. Open 19:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 19:00 - 05:00. EXW
Nightlife
CLUB & LOUNGE UNIQUE
Back after a re this is billed as Sopots premier nightspot.
Head down the stairs into a luxurious pit where the gorgeous and well o try to dance and spend their way out of
the recession. The music is a mix of disco, funk and house,
often spun by well-known DJs from both Poland and
abroad and regular product promotions help to keep the
mood upbeat. Probably home to the most beautiful crowd
youll nd in Sopot, so make sure you look the part and
loosen up that credit card.QM-4, Pl. Zdrojowy 1, Sopot,
tel. (+48) 512 22 81 00, www.uniqueclub.pl. Open 10:00
- 24:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. From September open
12:00 - 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. UGW
CZEKOLADA
An impressive 2 oor venue featuring DJs and bars on both
levels from a group weve come into contact with in other
cities around the country. Downstairs, nd a lounge area
while upstairs expect full-on parties with a more upbeat
selection of tunes coming from behind a stage located DJ
deck. All the right ingredients to attract a blingy and attractive crowd, and its the kind of club we could see a Premier League footballer coming to pick up his teammates
girlfriend. Dress up and head into the Multikino cinema
complex (ground oor) to see for yourself.QM-4, ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 63/6, Sopot, tel. (+48) 505 58 53
60, www.klubczekolada.pl. Open Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat only:
22:00 - 05:00. UXW
MIASTO ANIOW
While the music tends to be mainstream this is a cool space
with plenty of seats, and a minimal capital city vibe. Many
clubs in Gdask attract a crowd of just left school types, so
to nd a post-teen crowd doing their moves on the danceoor is a welcome surprise, as is the boat moored quayside
and the seasonal garden on the water - a highlight in the
summer if ever there was.QD-5, ul. Chmielna 26, Gdask,
tel. (+48) 58 768 58 31, www.miastoaniolow.com.pl.
Open Thu, Fri, Sat only: 21:00 - 05:00. Restaurant open
12:00 - 22:00. UBXW
POKAD
Lit with lanterns and candles this pier-side pirate haunt has
been built to resemble a galleon, and the timber interiors
include knotted ropes and navigational charts. Its nothing
edgy, but does at least attract a more low-key crowd than
the neighboring disco-din budget bars that line this strip.
Now detached from its sister bar Tawerna, Pokad is open
for parties or concerts.QO-1, Al. Jana Pawa II 11, Gdynia,
tel. (+48) 512 12 35 77, www.poklad.pl. Open 20:00 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. GW
SFINKS700
Snks700 is one of the iconic names on the Polish entertainment scene and one of the countrys rst post-communism clubs to open in 1990 going on to host some of
the most famous concerts, club nights and exhibitions
of the last 20 years. The club has been completely renovated with the addition of a top quality sound system, airgdansk.inyourpocket.com
conditioning and new performance area and the decor is

now a mis-match of bright red walls, exposed brick, disco
balls and an elaborately decorated ceiling above the main
hall. Hit it on dierent nights to nd anything from concerts to DJ-hosted parties and you should check out the
events section on our website for the latest listings.QM-3,
Al. Mamuszki 1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 608 09 49 08, www.
sfinks700.com. Open Ths, Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 05:00.
UEBXW
SPATIF
One of the enduring legends of Sopot, though utterly different from the Spatif of old. The design is still the same
- eclectic art and an avant garde style - the only thing thats
changed is the people who visit. What was once a den of
beatniks and thesps has morphed into, dare we say it, the
sort of place where plastic comes rst; be it plastic boobs
or the platinum card. The door policy reects this, so look
like an oligarch if you want to avoid the walk of shame having been shooed away. And, whether you make it in or not,
watch for the stairs.QM-4, ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino
54, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 26 83, www.spatif.sopot.pl.
Open 12:00 - 02:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. From August
15 open 15:00 - 02:00; Fri, Sat 15:00 - 05:00. XW
WTEDY
The rapid expansion in the nightlife options in town has
seen the overall level move quite sharply towards tacky so
its encouraging to see a place open that is prepared to do
more than cheap alcohol. To nd Wtedy (Then) head round
the back of a bank located in a villa style premises close to
the centre of town. That in itself lends it a in-the-know kind
of feel. Inside the crowd is a little older than on the strip
(but not as older as the dollies at the coat check) while a
vinyl-spinning DJ, excellent bar and limited seating mean
the place cant help but dance. Be warned that its popularity has seen them limit admission for certain Saturdays
to people who have responded to their FB page.QL-4, ul.
Kosciuszki 16, Sopot, tel. (+48) 791 37 77 38. Open Fri,
Sat only : 21:00 - 05:00. XW
WINE BARS
VINOTEQUE SOPOT & CIGAR LOUNGE
A choice of 24 wines available by the glass from a range
of over 200 world wines which includes half bottles and
magnums as well as rare, hard-to-nd and award winning
bottles. The fact that they can oer both such a wide and
impressive range of wine in 25ml, 75ml or 125ml sizes is
due to the Enomatic dispensers the New Zealand owner
has pioneered in Poland which keep wines in perfect condition for three weeks allowing guests to sample wines
where once the only option was to buy by the (sometimes
expensive) bottle. Set in Sopots underground rotunda, Vinoteque oers a changing menu each month designed to
complement the wines on oer.QM-4, ul. Powstacw
Warszawy 10 (Sheraton Sopot Hotel), Sopot, tel. (+48)
58 767 19 63, www.sheraton.pl/sopot. Open 18:00 23:00. UGW
CROOKED HOUSE
The Crooked in the buildings name refers to the architecture, not to how most of the clientele look as they
leave, although it could. You can knock back shots in
exchange for a handful of coins downstairs, sip cocktails with a good-looking crowd or dance the night
away while dancers swing above your head on a trapeze on the upper levels.
Cocktail hour at Za Kobieta
DREAM CLUB
Theres wow factor galore inside Dream Club, but unless
you take your fashion tips from Maxim and Vogue theres
little chance of seeing it. Door selection is tough; for lads
a logo on the shirt and some sunglasses on your head
work miracles, while for girls a pneumatic set of knockers
is guaranteed to do the trick. The rewards are ample, with
top DJs, a top lighting and sound set-up and a goodlooking crowd.QM-4, ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino
53, Sopot, tel. (+48) 605 50 08 00, www.dreamclub.
pl. Open Thu,Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 05:00. From October
open Fri, Sat only : 22:00 - 05:00. UX
NA DRUG NK
Na Druga Nozke literally means For the other leg
which is a Polish phrase meaning something like one
for the road. This is cheap and cheerful drinking. They
have Tyskie on tap for 5zl and a more wide-ranging
choice of cheap eats including calamari, nuggets and
pierogi. For something dierent ask for a kiwwka - a
kiwi avoured vodka.QM-4, ul. Bohaterw Monte
Cassino 53, Sopot, tel. (+48) 793 47 86 66, www.
NaDrugaNozke.pl. Open 16:00 - 05:00. UBCW
ZA KOBIETA
A great looking pre-club spot found up the stairs in the
Crooked House. The cocktails come prepared by pleasant English-speaking sta and while this is a great place
for pre-club drinks you can also nd yourself trapped as
the crowd kick o on the small danceoor.QM-4, ul.
Bohaterw Monte Cassino 53, Sopot, tel. (+48) 660
51 89 83, www.zlakobieta.com. Open 20:00 - 05:00.
UXW
73
Sightseeing
century Crane (D-4 uraw) stands on the rivers edge, a hulking
reminder of Gdasks merchant past. Across the river the eery
remains of Granary Island (D-4/5, Wyspa Spichrzw) serve as a
somber reminder of the havoc wreaked here by WWII, while
the Maritime Museum (including the ship Sodek) provides an
interesting look at the history of Polish seafaring.
The famous Gate #2 at the former Lenin Shipyard
If youre pressed for time heres a list of those places you

might want to make sure you dont miss. More details
about each, including addresses and opening hours, can
be found within these pages.
Starting o in Gdask then. It was in this city that the rst ssures in the Iron Curtain appeared, forced open by Poles during the landmark August strikes of 1980. Following this rst
peaceful victory over the communist rulers, calls for greater
freedoms were only nine years away from bringing down the
Berlin Wall. The centre of these protests were Gate #2 of the
Gdask shipyard and this can be found just outside of old
town on ul. Doki (B-1). While there do not dare miss the Roads
to Freedom exhibition (B-1, ul. Way Piastowskie 24) close to
the shipyards a moving tribute to the Solidarity movement
(note that this closes in August and a new exhibition will open
in the ECS at the end of that month). And Gdask was not
only the city where the fall of communism can be traced but
is also where the rst shots of WWII were red. WWII bus
should not miss the ferry ride (in season) up to the Westerplatte peninsula and to the Nowy Port lighthouse where the
scars from the rst shots of the war can still be seen.
N tun
Nep
tune, Roman
Romaann God
Goodd off thhe Sea and
nd Gd
Gdas
asks
as
skkss mo
most
stt fam
famous
ous st
statu
at e
atu
Tri-city Sightseeing
If its history you want then youve come to the right place because
the Tri-city has sacks of it. So charge up the battery pack, clear the
memory and let us point you and your camera in the right direction.
The old town is where youll nd a number of photo opportunities a fact made all the more remarkable when you
consider most of it was a smouldering pile of bricks at the
end of WWII. The sensible start point is The Upland Gate (B-4,
Brama Wyynna), which marks the start of what was once
known as the Royal Road. Following this route youll pass by
Amber Museum and the Torture Chamber (B-4, Katownia)
and then through the Golden Gate (B-4, Zota Brama). Stop
for a moment under the gate to take at look at the pictures
of the city once the ghting stopped in 1945 it will make
you appreciate what youll see on the rest of your walk all the
more. As you pass through the Golden Gate you come out
onto Long Street (ul. Duga). On the left about half way down
is the Main Town Hall (C-4 Ratusz) which serves as the home
of the Gdask History Museum and a few metres further on
is Neptuns fountain (C-5) and Artus Court (C-5, Dwr Artusa).
The Royal Way ends at the impressive Green Gate (C-5, Zielona Brama) now the home of Lech Waesas oce.
St. Marys Street (C-4, ulica Mariacka) ranks as the citys most
picturesque street and is dominated by the biggest brick
church in the world St. Marys (C-4, Bazylika Mariacka). Climb
to the top for panoramic views of the city. Nearby the 15th
In Sopot, make a beeline for Krzywy Domek (the Crooked

House) (M-4) on the main pedestrian thoroughfare ul.
Monte Cassino. Probably Sopots most photographed landmark, the building was inspired by the fairytale illustrations
of a Swedish resident of Sopot. From there carry on to the
focal point of Sopot the 511m pier (M-4). Originally built
by a doctor in Napoleons occupying army, the pier is the
longest in the Baltic. At one time the gardens surrounding the pier were themselves part of a huge hotel, spa and
casino complex. The Sotel Grand Hotel is one of the few
original buildings which survived and has been renovated
and modernised in recent years.
Europes longest wooden pier at Sopot
Gdynia, while younger than its sister cities, does oer a

small but interesting selection of sightseeing options. Take
a look at the City of Gdynia Museum which does a good
job of showing how a shing village was turned into an international port and commercial centre in under a decade
because of the decisions made in the Treaty of Versailles.
And being a port it also oers a more nautical set of attractions. Make sure to visit the ships docked on the quayside
(closed in winter) including the three-masted Polish training ship Dar Pormorza (O-1). And for those with children
the Oceanographic Museum and Aquarium (O-1) makes
for an entertaining couple of hours.
The museum ships in Gdynia port
75
Sightseeing
THE ROYAL WAY
Golden Gate
When the king of Poland travelled from Warsaw to Gdask,

he would enter the city through the Brama Wyynna (Upland Gate), continue through the Zota Brama (Golden
Gate), and then head along ulica Duga (Long Street) and
Dugi Targ (Long Market) to the Zielona Brama (Green
Gate). Although he didnt make this journey often, it was
highly protable for him to visit Gdask due to the enormous tax revenue the city commanded through its trade.
In turn, Gdasks predominantly Germanic city dwellers
would negotiate with the Polish king for greater rights,
gaining substantially more privileges from him than they
ever would from the Prussians in the 18th century.
Sightseeing
ber and Torture Museums and you can view the old town
from their viewing tower (open until September 15) which
costs an additional 5z.QB-4, Targ Wglowy 26, Gdask.
Open 09:00 - 16:00, Mon 09:00 - 13:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. From September 16 open 10:00
- 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 13:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission (combined ticket with the
Prison Tower) 10/5z, under-16s 1z, family ticket 20z.
Mon free. From September 16 Tue free. Y
IV entertained local dignitaries at Lwi Zamek (The Lions

Castle) at N 35; two lions guard its portal. The house neighbouring it dates to 1563 and is a splendid example of the
inuence of the Dutch renaissance on Gdask architecture.
The renaissance house at N 45 belonged to the Schumann
family and is sometimes called the House of the Polish
Kings (Dom Krlw Polskich); gures of Greek gods stud its
alcoves. The eastern end of the street is dominated by the
tall, slim tower of the Town Hall.QB/C-4.
GOLDEN GATE
The virtues of Peace, Freedom, Wealth, Fame, Piety, Justice
and Concord are depicted in allegorical statues adorning the balustrade of this gate overlooking ul. Duga.
Built between 1642-44, it was destroyed during WWII
and not restored until 1997. An inscription on the gate
reads, Small states grow by concord, great ones fall by
disagreement.QB-4, ul. Duga, Gdask.
MAIN TOWN HALL

The Town Hall spire, with a golden replica of King Zygmunt
August on its pinnacle, dominates ul. Dugas skyline. Built in
the late 14th century as the seat of city authorities, the Town
Hall hosted many Polish kings. It was almost completely
destroyed during WWII but rebuilt with extraordinary care.
The tower contains a 37-bell clarion which was inaugurated
on New Years Eve 2000. The interior of the building, home
to Gdask History Museum today, is lushly decorated with
painted ceilings, colourful frescoes and elaborate furniture
and carvings. Two solemn lions guard its 18th century portal, from where an elaborate staircase leads to the luxuriant
Sala Czerwona, the Red Room. This room was used by the
council in summer. Its ornamented ceiling is decorated
with 25 paintings surrounding a central piece entitled The
Glorication of the Unity of Gdask.QC-4, ul. Duga 46/47,
Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 767 91 00, www.mhmg.pl. Open
09:00 - 16:00, Mon 09:00 - 13:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. From September 16 open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue
10:00 - 13:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 10/5z, under-16s 1z, family ticket 20z.
LONG STREET
Picturesque ul. Duga is one of the citys oldest thoroughfares. From the Golden Gate which protects it, the gentlycurving street opens into an array of colourful burgher
houses, roccoco portals, gothic mouldings and original
porticoes. The house numbers run in opposite directions
on either side, a feature typical of old Gdask streets. N 12
houses a Museum of Burgher Interiors. N 71 is one of the
few structures on the street to survive World War II and still
bears original mouldings from the second half of the 15th
century. N 28 is Dom Ferberw (Ferbers House), dating
to 1560, with magnicent sculptures and the three familiar coats of arms. N 29 has an interesting crew of Roman
emperors peering from its baroque faade. King Wadysaw
LONG MARKET & NEPTUNE FOUNTAIN

The focal point of Dugi Targ, the Long Market, is the Neptune Fountain, a bronze statue of the sea god erected in
1549 and converted to a fountain in 1633 and restored in
2011/12. During WWII, this symbol of Gdask was dismantled and hidden with many of the citys other treasures. It
was only returned to its rightful place in 1954. The square
itself is surrounded by colourful and ornate houses which
look magnicent when the sun is beating o their decorated walls. Dugi Targ used to be home to Gdasks richest,
most elite residents and was used for assemblies. Executions
took place on the square in front of Artus Court.QC-5.
UPLAND GATE
This 16th century gate, the main entrance into the Old
Town, was the original starting point for the Royal Way. It
was here that the Polish king was welcomed and given
the keys to the city. The gate was originally surrounded
by a 50m moat and was named for its upland location
above the water level. The metal pulleys used for raising
and lowering the drawbridges are still visible beneath
the coats of arms of Poland, Prussia and Gdask. The gate
has undergone major renovation work in recent years and
now houses a tourist information point.QB-4, ul. Way
Jagielloskie, Gdask.
PRISON TOWER AND TORTURE CHAMBER
Originally built as part of the citys fortications in the second half of the 14th century, the complex was rebuilt by
Antoni van Obberghen between 1593 and 1604 with the
smaller of the two buildings becoming a torture chamber and courthouse while the larger tower became the
prison. It was here that executions were carried out until
the middle of the 19th century. Damaged during WWII, it
has been extensively renovated and how houses the Am76 Gdask In Your Pocket
ARTUS COURT
This impressive mansion, a symbol of the citys power in the
16th and 17th centuries, served as an exchange and as the
seat of St. George and the brotherhoods of rich patricians.
Founded as a meeting place for merchants and dignitaries, it was named after King Arthur, of round table fame,
and hosted many a noble guest. Following a re in 1841, it
was given a more Gothic form, complete with ostentatious
sculptures and paintings illustrating mans merits and vices.
Inside, the centrepiece of the main hall is a 10.64-metre renaissance tiled stove dating to 1546, made of more than 500
individual tiles and the tallest of its kind in Europe. Its adornments portray leaders, coats of arms and allegorical gures.
Main Town Hall
TOURIST INFORMATION
GDASK TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
An air-conditioned TI point on the main square set in
one of only two examples of Rococo in the city. Find
audio guides in 3 languages, Gdask-Sopot-GdyniaPlus Tourist cards, maps, leaets and get help from the
helpful, multi-lingual sta.QC-5, ul. Dugi Targ 28/29,
Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 43 55, www.gdansk4u.pl.
Open 09:00 - 19:00. From September open 09:00
- 17:00; Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Also at: Gdask Gwny
Station (in the tunnel) Open 09:00 - 19:00; Sat, 09:00
- 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00 and Gdask Airport (Arrivals Hall) Open 24hrs.
TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER
The main Tourist Information oce set in the wonderful looking building that once housed the
Polish Ocean Lines company.QN-1, ul. 10 Lutego 24, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 622 37 66, www.
gdyniaturystyczna.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun
09:00 - 16:00. From October open 09:00 - 17:00;
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.
TOURIST INFORMATION SOPOT
Info point inside the revamped Health House.QM-4,
Pl. Zdrojowy 2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 790 28 08 84, www.
sts.sopot.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Just to the left is a small pewter surface that claims to be

the oldest table in Poland while two stone lions protect the
entrance to the cellars of the court. The court still plays an
important part in public life today and is the scene of important receptions and meetings.QC-5, Dugi Targ 43/44,
Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 767 91 83, www.mhmg.pl. Open
09:00 - 16:00, Mon 09:00 - 13:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 -13:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 10/5z, under-16s 1z, family ticket 20z.
GREEN GATE
This magnicent four-arched gatehouse on the waterfront
was built as a palace for Polish monarchs. No Polish king
ever stayed in the building, but Lech Wasa has his oce
here: youll see his nameplates on the walls of the gate. The
gate leads to the Green Bridge, which spans the Motawa
River and which used to be raised to stop the ri-ra from
getting into the Old Town. Following a careful renovation
the gate now bears an uncanny resemblance to Amsterdams central train station, and is frequently home to passing exhibitions.QC-5, Dugi Targ 24, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58
307 59 12 ext. 102, www.mng.gda.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing.
Admission 10/6z, family ticket 18z. Opening hours and
ticket prices will change after September 15 subject to
exhibitions. Y
77
Sightseeing
OLIWA CATHEDRAL
OLIWA CATHEDRAL (KATEDRA OLIWSKA)
Oliwas towering Cathedral taking pride
of place at the western end of Oliwa Park
was originally built
as a simple wooden
structure in the 12th
century, and it was
only in 1224 that the
brickwork was added.
The year 1350 saw a
half-wit kitchen boy
accidentally start a
fire that engulfed the
whole building. Reconstruction began
immediately, but in
1626 the building was
again destroyed, this
time by marauding
Swedish soldiers. Not content with stealing its bells,
altars and valuables, the Swedes kidnapped Oliwas
hapless monks for good measure and in a twist of
irony, it was in this very building that Poland and
Sweden finally put the past behind them and signed
a peace treaty in 1660. Built along a classic threeaisle design with a vaulted basilica and shaped in the
form of the Latin cross, todays interior is dominated
by the extraordinary organ over the main entrance.
Built between 1755 and 1780 by the organ master
Johann Wulf, and at the time the largest organ of its
type in Europe, it features moving cherubs, trumpetplaying angels and comes with a staggering 7,896
pipes and 110 registers allowing for an incredible
range of pitch and sounds including rippling water,
animal cries and human voices; hear it for yourself
at the hours listed. A couple of other points of note
are the memorial plague to inter-war Danzig bishop
Edward ORourke found on the wall to the right as
you enter from the main entrance and, at the other
end of the church, a strange and beautiful canopy
around the high altar, covered with stars and featuring 150 angels poking out of a mass of clouds.QE-1,
ul. Biskupa Edmunda Nowickiego 5, Gdask, tel.
(+48) 58 552 47 65, www.archikatedraoliwa.pl.
Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30, Sun 14:00
- 17:00. Organ recitals take place at the following times on the hour. August: Mon- Fri 10:00 17:00 (except 14:00), Sat 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 15:00,
16:00, 17:00. September: Mon-Sat 10:00 - 13:00;
Sun 15:00, 16:00. October: Mon-Sat 11:00; 12:00.
November: Mon- Sat 12:00, Sun 15:00. Admission
free unless visiting during a virtuoso organ performance (entry 4.50/2.50zl).
Sightseeing
CEMETERIES
CEMETERY OF THE LOST CEMETERIES
(CMENTARZ NIEISTNIEJCYCH CMENTARZY)
Designed by Jacek Krenz and Hanna Klementowska and
featuring sculptures by Zygfryd Korpalski and Witold
Guchowski, this small memorial between the Church of
Corpus Christi and the bus station was ocially opened
on May 24, 2002. Dedicated to the citizens of Gdask
who were once buried in one of the citys 27 graveyards
either destroyed during WWII or bulldozed on purpose
after the end of the war, the new Cemetery of Lost Cemeteries was designed to resemble a temple. The main
memorial is surrounded by broken gravestones representing all faiths, and includes a poem by the Jewish
poetess Masha Kaleko (1912-1975), whose poetry was
burnt on the direct orders of Hitler in May 1933.QA-1,
ul. 3 Maja, Gdask.
CHURCHES
CORPUS CHRISTI CHURCH
(KOCI BOEGO CIAA)
Once part of a settlement called Grodzisko, a complex
of fortications outside of Gdasks main city walls, the
Boego Ciaa (Corpus Christi) Church is one of the oldest
remaining houses of worship in the city. Dating from the
early part of the 14th century, the church was originally
part of a larger complex that grew around it including a
small chapel, old peoples home, a leprosy hospital and a
cemetery that was closed by the communists in 1956. The
church is not a great looker, but is interesting on two levels.
It was here that the citys poignant Cemetery of the Lost
Cemeteries was built in 2002, and, along with St. Nicholas
Church, it was the only other church to escape any damage at all during WWII.QA-1, ul. 3 Maja 19a, Gdask, tel.
(+48) 58 302 52 38. Open by prior arrangement. No visiting during mass please.
GARRISON CHURCH OF ST JERZY
(KOCI GARNIZONOWY P.W. W. JERZEGO)
Designed by Louis von Tiedemann of Potsdam between
1899 and 1901 under the patronage of Empress Augusta
Victoria (who chipped in 1,000 marks of her own money towards its construction), the Neo-Gothic Garrison
Church of St Jerzy stands on the site of Sopots former
market square. Originally Evangelist, the church has been
Roman Catholic since Sopots reincorporation into Poland
in 1945. The minimalist whitewashed interior comprises
three unremarkable stone and brick naves, some charming modern stained glass and a wooden relief of the Virgin Mary by Zoa Kamilska-Trzciska, which used to be
on board the SS Batory as a token of luck during the war.
A Neo-Gothic chapel complete with ceramic roof stands
in the square outside. Once a well, the chapel now shelters a rather forlorn-looking statue of St. Adalbert.QL-4,
Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 05 48,
www.jerzy.sopot.pl. Open 07:00 - 19:00. No visiting
during mass please.
ROYAL CHAPEL (KAPLICA KRLEWSKA)

Often overlooked because of its gargantuan neighbour, St.
Marys Church, this little baroque beauty was built in accordance with the will of the Primate of Poland in 1681 for the
citys Catholic minority.QC-4, ul. w. Ducha 58, Gdask,
tel. (+48) 58 301 39 82. Open during Sunday mass only
which takes place at 11:00.
ST. BRIDGETS CHURCH (KOCI W. BRYGIDY)
Best known as a sanctuary for the leaders of Solidarno
under martial law, St. Bridgets Church was almost completely destroyed during WWII. It was reconstructed in
1973, based on an original plan dating from 1394-1420. The
church was founded as a place of worship for members of
St. Bridgets Order. Legend has it that the saint was laid out
in the church for a few days after her death. Today it is an
impressive and at the same time simple place of worship.
Decorating the walls are numerous memorials to various
conicts including the Soviet massacre of Polish ocers at
Katy as well as crosses used during the Solidarno strikes.
Particularly poignant is the small shrine to Father Jerzy Popieluszko, the chaplain of Solidarno who was murdered by
secret police in 1984. There is also a small display of religious artifacts. Formerly the parish of controversial priest
Father Henryk Jankowski (whose tomb can be found inside), the church was granted the title of Lesser Basilica by
the Pope in 1991. Worth dropping by, not least to check on
the progress of the new altar - work to add a two and half
ton altar carved exclusively from amber had stalled at press
time due to a lack of aforementioned material, though an
amber Mary and an eagle and crown have come to fruition.
QC-2/3, ul. Profesorska 17, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 31
52, www.brygida.gdansk.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. No visiting during mass please.
ST. MARYS CHURCH (BAZYLIKA MARIACKA)
St. Marys in the Old Town is believed to be the largest brick
church in the world. The interior vault supports 37 windows, over 300 tombstones and 31 chapels. It can hold up
to 25,000 people, which was useful during the period of
martial law between 1981 and 1983 when members of the
Solidarity movement sought refuge here. The church can
be accessed through seven gates with intriguing names
like the Purse Makers Door. Interestingly, the sculptor who
carved the crucix of Christ nailed his errant son-in-law
to a cross so as to add realism to his work. St. Marys was
seriously damaged during WWII and the original frescoes
have since been whitewashed, which far from leaving an
impression of stark emptiness bring out the best in the relics throughout and creating a marvellous feeling. Of note
is the enormous astronomical clock dating from 1464. Its
complex dials show the time and date, phases of the moon,
the position of the moon and sun in relation to the zodiac
signs, and the calendar of saints. Adam and Eve ring the bell
on the hour. According to legend, the clocks creator had
his eyes gouged out so hed never make a clock to better
than this one. Youll hear this story about every astronomical clock in Europe, and it makes you wonder why mediaeval clock-makers ever accepted commissions. The 78 metre
tower houses a viewing platform with cracking views of old

Gdansk and has benetted from a 3.3 million euro renovation.QC-4, ul. Podkramarska 5, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301
39 82, www.bazylikamariacka.pl. Open 08:30 - 18:30,
Sun 13:00 - 18:00. Admission to tower 5z.
ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH (KOCI W. MIKOAJA)
The rst Catholic church in the city and the only one to
escape WWII without a scratch. Founded by the Dominican Order in 1348-90, this is a remarkable church with a
dark marbled interior, ancient exposed walls and a sombre
atmosphere. Of note is the multi-level high altar and Baroque-panelled choir stalls which make it a popular choice
for weddings.QC-3, ul. witojaska 72, Gdask, tel.
(+48) 58 301 35 77, www.gdansk.dominikanie.pl. Open
08:00 - 19:00. No visiting during mass please.
TOUR GUIDES
EASY GDASK TOURS
Specially tailored tours both on foot and in a car of Gdask
and the neighbouring cities as well as Malbork and other
popular places located around the Tri-city.Qtel. (+48)
790 78 00 32, www.easygdansktours.com.
GDANSK WITH US
Walking tours led by two enthusiastic and qualied
locally born tour guides. Both have worked in Scandinavia, hence Norwegian as well as English being a speciality. Qtel. (+48) 781 18 71 11, www.gdanskwithus.
com. Tour prices on request.
MALGORZATA MAZUR
A personal tour guide oering a range of tours including old town, Stutthof and Kashubia.Qtel. (+48) 608
20 40 97, www.malgorzatamazur.blogspot.com.
Prices are negotiable.
TRIP 2 GDANSK/JOANNA TOURS
As well as city tours, these ladies will also organise tours
of out of town places such as Malbork and Stutthof
while they are also adept at providing genealogy research and ancestral tours. Contact them for prices and
details.Qtel. (+48) 696 48 73 12/(+48) 503 11 32 49,
www.trip2gdansk.pl.
79
Sightseeing
BYSKAWICA
With the Treaty of Versailles Poland found itself a nation
state once more, granted access to the sea via what
was to become the infamous Polish Corridor. For the
rst time in a century Poland had coastline and her own
waters, the only thing missing was a navy to guard it.
Polish defensive bods designed a new fast attack class
of destroyer, and the tender was won by the JS White
rm based in Cowes on the Isle of Wight to build two
such destroyers, the Byskawica (Lightning), and a sister
ship, ORP Grom (Thunder). Measuring 114 metres in
length, powered by turbines rated at 54,000hp, armed
to the teeth and boasting a top speed of 39 knots,
these were to become the fastest destroyers in the
world when launched in 1936.
Both boats were spirited to England on the eve of
war as part of the Peking Plan, where they came
under the command of the British Royal Navy. Based
in Cowes the Byskawica saw action several times,
including in the Mediterranean, Normandy and as
an Atlantic convoy escort. However, her nest moment was to come in Cowes. Captained by Wojciech
Francki, on the night of the 4th May 1942 the town
came under attack from up to 160 Luftwae bombers. Anticipating an attack Capt. Francki had ensured
the Byskawica was well-armed, despite a ruling stating the vessel should have been decommissioned
while in port. In a further breach of regulations
Francki ordered his crew to ght o the waves of
bombers, and what followed was a ferocious battle
between sea and air. The heroic defence and the
smokescreen that was lit were enough to thwart the
Luftwae, and the captain and crew were hailed as
the saviours of Cowes. Less forthcoming in their recognition were the pedants in the British Admiralty;
conscious of condoning a blatant violation of the
rules they sent a tight-lipped dispatch commending
the good work done by Francki.
At the end of the war the Byskawica returned to Poland, though without its captain and many of its crew.
Francki chose a new life in Australia, away from the
suspicions and hostility of the new communist government, and it was a lead followed by many of his ratings.
In 2004 the actions of the Byskawica were formally
acknowledged, and a plaque unveiled in the port of
Cowes by Franckis daughter. The ship itself was retired
from service in 1969, and has since served as a museum
ship held in the sort of regard the Brits reserve for the
HMS Victory. Its the only ship to be awarded Polands
highest military decoration, the Gold Cross of the Virtuti Militari Order.QO-1, Skwer Kociuszki 12, Gdynia,
tel. (+48) 58 626 36 58, www.navy.mw.mil.pl. Open
10:00 - 12:30, 14:00 - 16:30. Closed Mon. Admission
10/6z, family ticket 20z. N
Sightseeing
MONUMENTS
FATHER JANKOWSKI STATUE
A 3.7m tall statue dedicated to Father Henryk Jankowski,
the chaplain of Solidarnosc (Solidarity), stands in a square
named after the controversial priest and was unveiled in
2012 two years after his death. Born in 1936 in nearby
Starogard Gdanski, Father Jankowski came to the fore during the strikes of the 1980s when he was the parish priest
of the nearby St. Bridgets church, which became the parish church of the Solidarnosc movement. Father Jankowski
was a fearless and outspoken critic of the regime, a trait
that carried on into post-communist times. He found himself in trouble with the new government for comments he
made about the European Union and then with the Roman Catholic authorities who eventually banned him from
preaching for a year in 1997 after a series of anti-Semitic
comments made from the pulpit. Despite the controversy
that surrounded him in his later years Father Jankowski retained many admirers (including local bakers the Pellowski
family ) who organised a fund to create the statue you see
today. The three crosses you see on the priests chest represent the Monument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers found
on Solidarity Square.Qul. Stolarska, Gdask.
FOUR QUARTERS FOUNTAIN
(FONTANNA CZTERECH KWARTAW)
Long ago you would have found old Gdask carved into
four quarters, Szeroki, Wysoki, Rybacki and Kogi (Wide,
High, Fish and Ship quarter) and today the geographic
point where these historic areas met has been handily
highlighted by a dazzling installation that makes use of
lions, light and water. Featuring four life size lions (ancient
symbols and protectors of Gdask) guarding each corner,
and glass coloured blocks embedded into granite panels
transforms during the warmer months when the blocks
light up and twenty four jets of water shoot high into the
sky. Great fun for the kids on a hot day.QC-4, ul. Grobla I,
Gdask.
HAFFNER MONUMENT (POMNIK HAFFNERA)
A monument to the French doctor (1777 - 1830) who came
to Sopot while serving in Napoleons army. Once the ghting was over, Haner returned and built a bathing complex,
sanitorium and spa as well as the beginnings of Sopots signature pier. He is widely regarded as the founder of modern
Sopot and he died here in 1830.QM-4, ul. Powstacw
Warszawy, Sopot.
JAN III SOBIESKI MONUMENT
(POMNIK JANA III SOBIESKIEGO)
A large bronze statue built in 1897 in memory of the Polish king who reigned in the 17th century and famously
defeated the Turks at the gates of Vienna; thereby saving
Europe from the Ottoman hordes. Originally displayed in
Lwow (now Ukranian Lviv), the statue was moved to Warsaw in 1950 before nally being moved to Gdask in 1965.
During martial law the statue became the rallying point
for demonstrations and marches.QB-3, Targ Drzewny,
Gdask.
JOSEPH CONRAD MONUMENT
The work of Danuta and Zdzisaw Koseda and Wawrzyniec
Samp, and unveiled in 1976, Gdynias tribute to Polands
most famous sea-faring author (born Teodor Jzef Konrad
Korzeniowski, 1857 - 1924), who hailed from Berdychiv in
what is now Ukraine and who as far as anyone can tell had
no connections with Gdynia, sits splendidly opposite the
citys Oceanographic Museum adding a touch of class to
the pleasant concrete spit of land on which its placed. The
delightfully stylised monument is allegedly the only one
in the world dedicated to the great man.QO-1, Al. Jana
Pawa II 1, Gdynia.
JZEF PISUDSKI MONUMENT
A statue dedicated to the man who is widely recognised as having been the key figure in Poland regaining
her independence after 123 years in 1918 and then preserving it by defeating the Red Army on their advance
westward in August 1920 in what came to be known as
the Miracle on the Vistula. Marshall Pisudski distrusted
Polish democracy, which he considered weak and corruptible, in the years following her independence and
eventually took power by a coup in 1926. Despite ruling by what even supporters described as authoritarian methods, Pisudski is still widely respected for his
strong leadership in the nine years before his death in
1935 and his body is buried in the crypt of the royal
castle of Wawel in Krakow. This 3.5 metre tall statue
located outside of the Gdynia City Hall was designed
by Stanisaw Szwechowicz and was unveiled on November 10, 2013 after money was collected by the
Pisudski Association and the local government.QN-2,
Al. Pisudskiego, Gdynia.
MONUMENT TO THE EVACUATED CHILDREN
(POMNIK KINDERTRANSPORTU)
Between 1938 and 1939 some 10,000 Jewish children were
evacuated from Gdask to Britain in what became known
as kindertransports. Sculptor Frank Meisler was one of
them, and on May 6, 2009 his memorial to this exodus was
unveiled outside Gdask Gwny train station.QB-2, ul.
Podwale Grodzkie, Gdask.
SHAKESPEARE THEATRE
Photo by Rafa Malko
THE GDASK SHAKESPEARE THEATRE

(GDASKI TEATR SZEKSPIROWSKI)
There are few cities in whole of Europe, that can be proud
of such close connections with Shakespeare as Gdask
can. The tradition of staging Shakespeares works is revived thanks to the Shakespeare Festival and to the idea
of establishing the Shakespearean Theatre in Gdask. Kenneth Branagh
In Gdansks golden era when it truly was one of the
continents great trading cities, it is widely recognised
that it was visited by itinerant English troupes of actors.
It appears they regularly played during the summer
in Gdansk from about 1600 onwards and at a theatre
called the Fencing School from 1611, which some local
experts claim may have been modelled on the Fortune
playhouse in London.
The Fencing School, located in what was eectively the
West End of Gdansk was demolished and replaced by
the Komedienhaus in 1740 where performances were
given until the start of the XIXth century.
This area is now witnessing the revival of this great tradition with the imminent opening of the new Shakespearean Theatre in Gdansk. This quite incredible project has been realised after many years of campaigning
by amongst others Prof. Jerzy Limon succeeded in raising the nance and support of local and national governments. The PLN 81mln construction is to a winning
design by Prof. Renato Rizzi of Venice and includes the
ability to present performances using dierent types of
staging as well as a roof that can be opened to allow
performances in daylight.
The organisers plan to present performances in many
languages as well as play host to exhibitions, workshops and act as an educational centre.
The theatre will be launched on September 19 when it
plays host to the annual Shakespeare Festival. Having
started in 1993 as the Shakespearean Days, it became
a full-blown festival in 1997 and is now a huge, international event.QB-5, ul. Bogusawskiego 1, Gdask,
tel. (+48) 58 304 00 20, www.teatrszekspirowski.pl.
81
Sightseeing
NATIONAL MARITIME
MUSEUM
Gdasks National Maritime Museum is made up of four
individual museums, including The Crane and the Sodek
ship, that together create a complete history of the port.
Straddling both banks of the Motawa, tickets can be
bought individually or you can buy entry to three of the
four parts (The Crane, Sodek and the National Maritime
Museum) and this includes a free ride on the ferry which
sails between the Crane and the museum on the opposite
bank. The exhibitions in the Maritime Culture Centre require additional payment but seeing as the cost is small we
do not understand why they dont just include these in the
combined price.
Finally you can save yourself a 10-15 minute walk from one
side of the river to the other by using the ferry even if youre
not visiting the museum. Tickets cost 1.50z each way.
Goldwasser
THE CRANE (URAW)

The Crane is one of the dening symbols of Gdask and
represents what little is left of the citys great trading age.
First mentioned in 1367 the original structure burnt down
in 1442 before its current design was created in 1442-1444.
As a working crane it was used to transfer cargoes and to put
up masts on ships. At one time this was the biggest working
crane in the world but it also served a defence function and
as one of the gates to the city. It had a lifting capacity of 4
tonnes to a height of 11 metres and this was achieved by two
huge wooden wheels at its heart each with a diameter of 6
metres. These wheels were originally powered by men walking inside of them to turn the lifting mechanism. It remained
a working crane until the middle of the 19th century and was
80% destroyed in 1945 in the battle for Gdask.
After the war it was rebuilt and donated to the Polish Maritime Museum of which it remains a part today. You will be
able to view a collection of permanent exhibitions inside
including one on port life between the 16th and 18th centuries. In Polish only, displays include models of lighthouses, the old port, life-size recreations of counting houses and
old port life in general plus access to the cranes two huge
drive-wheels.QD-4, ul. Szeroka 67/68, Gdask, tel. (+48)
58 301 69 38, www.nmm.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. From
September open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/5z. Y
Sightseeing
MARITIME CULTURE CENTRE
(ORODEK KULTURY MORSKIEJ)
A brand new building in the shadow of Gdasks crane is the
modern setting for the Central Maritime Museums newest
exhibition. Spread over 4 oors, kids will nd the People,
Ships, Boats interactive displays of interest as they learn
about the sea including how devastating tsunamis start
while there is also a permanent exhibition entitled Boats of
the Peoples of the World (Working Boats), which presents
scores of small craft from all over the world, including Native
American dugout canoes, a fabulous little English coracle
and numerous small shing and trade vessels from the Far
East. The third oor currently houses an interesting temporary exhibition telling the stories and displaying the treasures
recovered from local shipwrecks. There are plenty of good
English descriptions plus a cafe/restaurant (Cafe Naprzod) on
the fourth oor which oers great photo opportunities of the
river from its terrace.QD-4, ul. Tokarska 21-25 (entrance
from ul. Dugie Pobrzee), Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 86 11,
www.nmm.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00. From September open
10:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission to the Interactive Exhibition People, Ships, Boats
8/5z. Admission to the Boats of the Peoples of the World
Exhibition and temporary exhibitions 6/4z. YU
NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM
(NARODOWE MUZEUM MORSKIE)
The main part of the museum is located inside three Renaissance granaries and if youve only got time to visit one
of the three museums this is by far the most comprehensive of the lot. A complete history of Polands nautical history is represented on several oors and includes old cannons, huge oil paintings, harpoon guns, a hall dedicated to
underwater archaeology, shipbuilders hard hats from the
Lenin shipyard, a few pieces of modern art and an extensive collection of model ships. Information is available in
English.QD-4, ul. Oowianka 9-13, Gdask, tel. (+48)
58 301 86 11, www.nmm.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. From
September open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission
8/5z. Guide tours over 30 people 35z. YU
SODEK
The rst steamship built in Polish Gdask after 1945 at what was
to become the Lenin Shipyards, the Sodek has been turned
into a living museum. Launched in 1948 this old ship was an ore
collier before retiring to become a museum ship and just about
every inch of it can be accessed from the cramped engine room
to the bridge to the pokey little cabins the crews lived in.QD-4,
ul. Oowianka 9-13, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 86 11 ext. 327,
www.nmm.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. From September open
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 8/5z. Y
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MUSEUMS
AMBER MUSEUM (MUZEUM BURSZTYNU)
Housed in Gdasks mediaeval Fore-gate building (once
home to the Prison Tower and Torture Chamber), this multistory exhibit delves extensively into the history of Baltic amber. The impressive collection of inclusions (when bugs or
plants are caught inside the amber) is intriguing to look at,
and the many amber creations, from inkwells to spoons to a
stunning Fender Stratocaster guitar, shows the materials diversity. A large open room at the top of the building houses
an impressive array of modern amber jewellery that appears
more artistic than wearable. Many nd the separate exhibits
on the buildings past as a torture chamber uncomfortable
- and considering the piped-in soundtrack of pained cries,
we understand why - but they are a must-see, if for no other
reason to nd out what thumb screwing and a heretics
fork are. Many of the exhibit rooms throughout the ancient
building are small and cramped, and if you happen to visit
on the same day as a school group its a nightmare. There is
also a viewing point (admission 5z) which this year is open
for the summer until September 15.QB-4, Targ Wglowy
26, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 47 33, www.mhmg.pl. Open
09:00 - 16:00, Mon 09:00 - 13:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 13:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Admission (combined ticket with the Prison Tower)
10/5z, under-16s 1z, family ticket 20z. Until September
15 admission free on Monday. From September 16 admission free on Tuesday. Y
GDANSK HISTORY MUSEUM
The History of Gdansk museum calls the impressive Main
Town Hall home, a Gothic-Renaissance structure originally built in the 14th century and painstakingly repaired
following World War II. Inside visitors immediately see
the ornate Great Council Hall and Red Hall, the latter of
which features an impressively-sized replace and lavish
ceilings paintings, including The Glorication of the Unity
of Gdansk. Subsequent rooms feature vintage 16th and
17th furniture and a sampling of the museums 600 silver pieces, which highlight Gdansks silversmithing era.
The top oor of the museum features a delightful exhibit
showcasing what life was like in everyday Gdansk right
before the war - visitors get a glimpse into the homes and
businesses of residents and see a period in time that was
about to come to an abrupt end. The stairwell back to the
main oor shows what happened to that lifestyle via stunning photographs of the complete levelling of the city at
the hands of the Red Army. In between the old council
chambers and the exhibition showing pre-war Gdansk is
where temporary exhibitions are held.QC-4, ul. Duga
46/47, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 767 91 00, www.mhmg.
pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Mon 09:00 - 13:00; Fri, Sat 10:00
- 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. From September 16 open
10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 13:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5z,under-16s
1z, family ticket 20z. Mon free. From September 16
Tue free. Y
TOURIST CARD
Those looking to take advantage of as much as the

city has to oer should seriously consider picking up a
Gdansk-Gdynia-Sopot-Plus tourist card. The card works
on a number of levels depending what you are looking
to get out of the city. The basic card costs 13z and gets
you discounts at over 250 partners of the local tourist
organisation until the 30th April 2015. You can then
add either or both a Sightseeing or Transport option to
this basic card depending on your needs. The Sightseeing option gives you entry to 22 museums and the zoo
while the transport option buys you unlimited travel on
the citys public transport network including the local
SKM (local commuter train).
The Sightseeing and Transport packages are available
in 24-hour or 72-hour options with prices as follows so
that a normal 72-hour card with both Sightseeing and
Transport options will cost 88z:
Sightseeing
72-hour
24-hour
Normal
48z
38z
Reduced
38z
28z
Transport
72-hour
24-hour
Normal
53z
33z
Reduced
33z
23z
You can pick a Tourist Card up from any of the

following venues:
Lech Wasa Airport, ul. Sowackiego 200
Gdansk Main Railway station (A-2, the tunnel),
ul. Podwale Grodzkie
Gdask Tourist Infomation Centre,
(C-5) ul. Dugi Targ 28/29
PTTK Gdask Tourist Information,
(C-5) ul. Duga 45
Pomorskie Centrum Informacji Turystycznej,
(B-4) ul. Way Jagielloskie 2a
Gdynia Tourist Information Centre,
(N-1) ul. 10 Lutego 24
We have marked those places listed in this guide which
accept the Tourist Card with a Y symbol.
83
Sightseeing
MUSEUM OF EMIGRATION
Heres a question. If Warsaw is the city with the largest

Polish population in the world, which has the second
largest?
When you see the answer (* youll nd it at the end of
this text) youll appreciate why the country has decided
to build a museum to examine and explain the huge
eect emigration has had on both Poland and those
thousands of people who have passed through this
gateway in pursuit of a new life. The term Polonia is
used to describe those of Polish origin who live around
the world and some estimates put the size of this community at over 20 million people today.
The aim of this new museum, which is still under construction, is to show why people left; where they left
to and what happened to them. It is being built in
the beautiful Dworzec Morski (Sea Terminal) through
which these thousands of people would have passed
on their way to boarding the ship that would take them
from their homeland, often forever. Covering 6,000m2,
the completed museum will serve not just as an exhibition space but also as a place to serve education and
research as well as a cultural hub.
One of their key aims in the months leading up to the
opening is to reach out to the descendants of Polish
migrs for their personal stories and keepsakes of their
ancestors. If you have anything at all which you think
might be of interest (tickets, photographs, postcards,
documents, travel chests etc.) they would love to hear
from you. The museum plans to archive as many stories
as possible for future generations to understand that
emigration, a hot topic in todays society, is something
that has gone on for centuries. Heres what the museum itself is asking:
If migration has played an important role in the life of you
or your family ,please tell us about it. All the memories are
important and deserve to be remembered and presented
to a wider audience.
* The answer to the question is Chicago. The fact is today Warsaw has the largest number of Polish nationals
or people who consider themselves Polish living in it.
Chicago is often quoted as the city with the second
largest population of Poles after Warsaw although
many of these will be American nationals who describe themselves as Polish to some degree. However
you wish to dene a Pole the fact is that many millions
around the world can trace their roots to Poland and a
relative who emigrated from these shores.QDworzec
Morski, ul. Polska 1, www.muzeumemigracji.pl.
Sightseeing
ARCHAEOLOGY EDUCATION CENTRE BKITNY LEW (CENTRUM EDUKACJI
ARCHEOLOGICZNEJ BKITNY LEW)
Short of building a time machine this is the closest youll
ever get to seeing what local life was like hundreds of years
back. Set in the only granary building to have survived the
bombing of WWII you can watch a interesting lm, available in English showing the history of the island. Complete
with background noises of peeling bells and animals braying, this museum presents a series of life-size dioramas
designed to show what Gdask once must have been like.
Among the recreations are a cobblers store, a bath house
and an inn, and even the smells have been recreated
and piped into the rooms. The mannequins arent exactly
Madame Tussauds, but this is still loads of fun, and far removed from the standard museum experience in Poland.
QD-5, ul. Chmielna 53, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 320 31 88,
www.blekitnybaranek.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. From September open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10/8z. Family ticket (2 adults, 2 children)
26z. Guided tour 60z. YUN
DAR POMORZA
This three-masted Polish training ship has visited 383 ports
and travelled more than 800,000km in her time at sea. Constructed in 1909 in Hamburg to train cadets for the German
navy, she was after World War I given to the French who,
in turn, gave her to an Englishman in French service. The
ship was subsequently bought by the Pomeranian National
Fleet. Since 1972 she has taken part in numerous sailing
competitions, winning the Cutty Sark Trophy in 1980. A
year later she was bestowed the highest Polish State decoration: the order of Polonia Restituta.QO-1, Al. Jana Pawa
II (Nabrzee Pomorskie), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 23
71, www.nmm.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. From September
open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/5z. Y
CITY OF GDYNIA MUSEUM
Impressively modern and well run, the City of Gdynia museum takes visitors through the chronological history of the
town beginning with its origins as a shing village through
its evolution as an important international port during the
inter-war years. Displays of shing shanties and vintage
diving suits bring these dierent periods to life, and photographs of the growing port and the ships that called it
home emphasise the citys maritime history. The collection
of local independence ghter, Kashubian Antoni Abraham
gives you a look at the life of a man in the city around the
start of the 20th century, while keepsakes from defunct
hotels and old vessels mingle with faded documents and
countless Navy uniforms. All of this really can keep visitors
wandering for ages. The revolving temporary exhibits are
equally as intriguing, such as one we saw that recounted
the career of popular Polish lmmaker Krzysztof Kielowski.
Around back you can see a series of retired vessels belonging to the Naval Museum.QO-2, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1,
Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 662 09 10, www.muzeumgdynia.pl.
Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admision 7/4z, Fri free.
NATIONAL MUSEUM OLD ART DEPARTMENT

Located in a former Franciscan monastery, the National Museum is a work of art itself with vaulted ceilings and a large
staircase that houses an impressive collection of equally
beautiful objects. The main draw is Hans Memlings highly
detailed triptych The Final Judgment, which was returned
to Gdask from the Russians in 1956 after a circuitous journey through the hands of Napoleonic troops and Nazis.
Paintings showing pre-destruction Gdask and its wealthy
residents as well as the work of Dutch artists in another
room. QB-6, ul. Toruska 1, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 70
61 ext. 233, www.mng.gda.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00,Thu
12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. From September open 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon. From October open 09:00 - 16:00;
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45
minutes before closing. Admission 10/6z, family ticket
18z. Fri free for permanent exhibitions. Y
NAVAL MUSEUM
While the new building housing the museum is excellent
the exhibition is not. Everything is in Polish and is presented
in such a huge lump of text that no child, already disappointed by the lack of buttons to push and interactive displays to explore, is likely to get past the rst few sentences.
Wonderful stories such as that of the WWII submarine Orzel
are mentioned only briey while there is little context to
what each of the many models of ship represent. The team
of women, one sat on each oor reading a book, get up
and wander behind you giving you the sense of being in
a John Le Carre movie set in Cold War Europe. On the plus
side the garden holds a collection of old planes and artillery
including 18th century cannons; shells from the SchleswigHolstein (the ship that kicked o WWII), and a cannon recovered from a German U-boat sunk in Gdynia harbour in
1945.QO-2, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1b, Gdynia, tel. (+48)
58 620 13 81, www.muzeummw.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. From October open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 10/6z, family ticket 20z.
SOPOT MUSEUM
Occupying a building dating from 1903 this grand seaside
villa once belonged to the inuential Claaszen family. Now
operating as the museum of Sopot this rambling mansion
traces both the history of Sopot, and that of the Claaszen
family, through a series of photographs, postcards and
prints. Many rooms have been left as they were at the
start of the century, lled with grandfather clocks, letters
and glass cabinets hiding bone china sets and other family
possessions. Unfortunately with much of the exhibition in
Polish you will leave having gained little if any knowledge.
The second oor houses changing art exhibits. Typical of
Polish museums do expect to be trailed by over-eager curators.QM-5, ul. Poniatowskiego 8, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58
551 22 66, www.muzeumsopotu.pl. Open 08:00 - 16:00;
Thu, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. From October
open 08:00 - 16:00; Thu, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 5/3z. Children under 16 1z. Thu free.
YN
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ul. Oowianka 1, 80-751 Gdask

Reservation: +48 58 323 83 58
biuro@restauracjafi lharmonia.pl
www.restauracjafi lharmonia.pl
Let us flirt
a little
with you
ul. Dugie Pobrzee (next to the Crane)

tel. +48 661 511 811, www.restauracjakokieteria.pl
85
Sightseeing
PLACES OF INTEREST
CROOKED HOUSE (KRZYWY DOMEK)
Opened in 2004, the award winning, exceedingly higgledy-piggledy building by Polish architects Szotyscy Zaleski was inspired by the fairytale illustrations of Jan Marcin
Szancer and the drawings of the Swedish artist and Sopot
resident Per Dahlberg. The most photographed object in
Sopot, Centrum Rezydents 4,000m2 of luscious curves
are topped with a roof of blue-green enamelled shingles
designed to give the impression of a dragon. Filled with
shops, bars, clubs and cafes, the building promises more
from the outside than it actually delivers once youve entered. Do as the tourists do and take a souvenir picture
before moving onto one of the other choices on the strip.
QM-4, ul. Haffnera 6, Sopot.
FOUNTAIN
The remodelling of the whole area saw the fountain completely rebuilt and it now performs a small water show every hour. Its worth keeping an eye out for it at the times
below during the summer when there is a light and music
show, sometimes including a live saxophonist or trumpeter, to accompany the shooting water. The show lasts 10-12
minutes and admission is free. Shows take place until the
end of September.QPl. Kuracyjny, Sopot, www.mololo.
info. Shows take place on Tue, Thu, Sat at 21:00. From
September on Sat at 21:00.
GRANARY ISLAND
These granaries - no more than a skeletal set of ruined
brick walls today - were the most important source of income for Gdask in the 16th century, contributing to its
Great Armoury
Sightseeing
status as the largest Baltic harbour and one of Europes
richest cities. In the 14th century over 300 granaries operated on Wyspa Spichrzw; only one survived WWII, following which 20 were rebuilt. A moat was built around the
area in case of res. The granaries had names like Gloria
and Bear Dance and serviced over 200 ships a day, supplying 300,000 tonnes of grain a year. Plans to restore the
ruined granaries have repeatedly stalled, though eorts
have been made recently to reconnect the area to the city
with a new embankment around the island. As such they
remain a moving reminder of the devastation of WWIIQC6/D-4.
GREAT ARMOURY
The Great Armoury was built in 1600-09 on the medieval
line of the city walls. A working arsenal until the 1800s,
the armoury remains the nest example of Renaissance
architecture in the city. It was designed by Opberghen
and is the most impressive of his works in Gdask. The
well-like structure in front was used as an elevator to
transport gunpowder and cannon balls from their storage place in the basement. The armoury was badly damaged in WWII and had to be completely rebuilt and its
only in recent years that it has regained its former glory
following a spell during which it even placed host to a
supermarket. If you are from July 15 to August 15 you will
be fortunate enough to be able to take a look inside as
it opens for an exhibition entitled The Best Certicates
of 2013 after which it closes again.QB-4, Targ Wglowy
6, Gdask.
GREAT MILL
Built by the Teutonic Knights in 1350, this magnicent edice with its rising tiled roof is the grandest civil construction
in Gdask. Until 1356 when the Radunia Canal was built,
the mill was powered by slaves turning 18 huge wheels. It
was the largest industrial plant in Europe during the Middle
Ages and functioned until the end of WWII. Unfortunately,
this treasure has since been turned into a shopping centre.
At least theres a small exhibition of old equipment from the
mill. The surrounding grain and our stores, dating to 1400,
are home to a few small shops.QB-3, ul. Wielkie Myny
16, Gdask.
PIER
Sopots pier provides stunning views of the sea by day
and night. The pier was built in 1827 by a doctor in Napoleons army and has been renovated several times.
At 511m, its the longest in the Baltic region and the
longest wooden pier in Europe (Southend-on-Sea is
the longest overall in case you were wondering). A spa
garden with rounded pergolas and a fountain marks the
entrance to the pier, from which a sandy beach stretches
to either side. The pier was re-opened to its full length
in July 2011 with the completion of a brand new marina
at its tip as well as the construction of a restaurant and
a raised viewing platform.QM-4, www.molo.sopot.pl.
Admission 7.50/4zl. From September 29 admission is
free.
SOPOT FORT
Traces of human settlement in the Sopot area date back to the
Stone Age, and ancient graves, spearheads and ceramics have
all be uncovered in recent years. The most important archaeological nd however was the unearthing of the remains of a fort,
believed to have been used between the 8th and 14th century.
Reconstructed in 2000 the current castle is thought to be an
exact replica of the one that once stood here. A new museum
and didactic pavilion opened in December 2011 and features
a permanent exhibition entitled The oldest history of Sopot
(Najstarsze Dzieje Sopotu).QM-3, ul. Haffnera 63, Sopot, tel.
(+48) 58 340 66 00, www.archeologia.pl/grodziskosopot.
Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. From November open
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/6z. Fri free. YN
BISTRO&BAR
WISOUJCIE FORTRESS
Until the 16th century, when the growing Westerplatte peninsula nally separated it from the sea, Wisoujcie Fortress
stood on the seashore and served as a lighthouse. It also
served as a strategic point of defence for Poland, with about
40 bronze cannons and room inside for 1,000 men. The fortress was later seized by the Prussians and used as a prison
as late as the 19th century before becoming the base for a
sailing club between the wars. Destroyed by the Red Army
in 1945 it is only in the last decade that work has begun in
earnest to return it to its former glory following its inclusion
on the World Monument Watchs list of 100 most endangered monuments in 2001. So far the renovation works have
focused on securing and strengthening the external fortications with money provided by EEA grants so much of the
inside of the fort still requires renovation. That said it is still an
interesting place for a short visit with particular interest the
view from the top of the tower, the collection of weaponry in
the forts underground bunkers and the collection of rebuilt
houses inside the fortresses. The fort and the surrounding
area are also home to hibernating bats, which while winning
it a place on the Natura 2000 list, has also made the rebuilding work even greater a challenge.
The easiest way to get there during the summer is to take the
F5 water tram which departs from the small pier in front of
the Hilton hotel at Targ Rybny. Tickets can be purchased onboard. Your alternative is to take bus N106 from the Music
Academy on kowa street and ask the driver to drop you at
the Wisoujcie stop. A small car ferry travels the few hundred
metres between the fort and Nowy Port at regular intervals
allowing you to visit the Nowy Port lighthouse in the same
trip. The ferry costs 2zl per person and runs year round although it only runs on weekends in August.QJ-2, ul. Stara
Twierdza 1, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 343 14 05, www.mhmg.
pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. From September open 10:00 16:00. Closed from October. Admission 10/5z, family
ticket 20z. Y
The restaurant, located in the heart of Old

Town Gdask, has an interesting interior,
a rich menu and an unique freshly squeezed
juices from fruit and vegetables.
ul. Piwna 16, 80-831 Gdask, tel. 58 304 14 92
PIRATE
CRUISING
SHI P
IN SOPOT
Water and wind intensify the appetite

The Cape of Good Taste is the perfect place
to satisfy your hunger and experience real
pleasures of the palate.
Sopot Molo (Pier), tel.: +48 724 242 481

www.statekpirat.pl, marketing@statekpirat.pl
87
Hevelius
Hevelius
ASTRONOMICAL
ACHIEVEMENTS
When talking about Gdansks most famous resident, you

not only have to decide which name to use - Johannes
Hevelius if youre German or Jan Heweliusz in Polish - but
how exactly to credit him rst. As a popular brewer? A successful astronomer? A prolic inventor? The onetime mayor
of Gdansk? The Da Vinci of Poland? Described by one local publication on the 400th anniversary of his birth as
Gdansks Man of the millennium Hevelius had a rich and
fascinating life most of which he spent here in this city.
A LIFE IN GDANSK
Born in Gdansk in 1611 into a wealthy German-speaking
family, Hevelius was one of three brothers and six sisters
and the only male child to make it to adulthood. The German- Czech children of Abraham Howelcke and Kordula
Hecker had a privileged upbringing, and Hevelius was sent
to Gymnasium at the age of seven. Encouraged by tutor
Peter Cruger, the young Johannes had an early fascination
with mathematics and astronomy which carried on past his
studying law in Holland when he travelled around Europe
meeting leading astronomers.
This came to an end when his parents summoned him
home to take over the family brewery. Hevelius married
Katherine Rebeschke, the daughter of a neighbouring
brewing family, in 1635 and embraced the family tradition
of brewing beer. Yet despite his devotion to beer (Hevelius
helmed the local brewing guild), the pull of astronomy was
one he could not ignore.
The combination of an eclipse of the sun in 1639 and the

pleas of his former teacher, Peter Cruger, to resume his interest in the stars inspired Hevelius to take up his former
hobby once again. In 1641 he constructed an observatory
on the roof of his home where he worked on creating instruments for the study of astronomy that quickly outpaced
anything seen in Europe - including a 150-foot telescope
built on the shore of the Baltic Sea.
Hevelius quickly became a master of his science, discovering numerous constellations and comets, extensively documenting the topography of the moon, and observing the
phases of mercury and spots on the sun. These discoveries
and observations led Hevelius to publish 20 works in Latin
detailing his ndings, many using his own well-crafted illustrations. Unsurprisingly, Heveliuss work and stunning
observatory caught the attention of his peers, and he was
elected to the Royal Society of London in 1664 (the rst
Pole in the Societys history). He also received a visit from
Edmund Halley, discoverer of Halleys Comet, who sought
to compare Heveliuss use of a sextant with open sights
to the use of a sextant with telescopic sights. The winner?
Hevelius proved he could assess star positions without a
telescope as easily (and accurately) as Halley could with.
Throughout his work in astronomy Hevelius was also heavily
involved in municipal matters in Gdansk. In 1640 he became
the church administrator at St.Catherines Church, and served
for a decade as a court juror. And from 1651 until his death,
Hevelius was a councillor for the city of Gdansk.
Despite his many roles in the town and running a successful brewery, paying for his research required Hevelius to
seek the patronage of Polish kings and queens in order to
gain nancial support. King Jan Kazimierz and Queen Maria
Ludwika were the rst royalty to visit the observatory, and
King Jan III Sobieski the rst to give Hevelius a permanent
annual salary for his work - - which might explain why
Hevelius named a constellation Scutum Sobiescianum
(Sobieskis shield). Hevelius also drew an annual salary from
the French King Louis XIV.
In 1662 he lost his long-time wife Katherine, who for many
years had run the family brewing business so her husband
could focus on astronomy. A year later the 52-year-old Hevelius married 16-year-old Elizabeth Koopman, who quickly
became a partner and ally in Hevelius work (many consider Koopman to be the rst female astronomer and the
mother of moon charts). In between giving birth to four
children she managed the observatory and, following his
death, completed their jointly created catalogue of 1,564
stars called Prodromus astronomiae.
Tragedy struck the family again when a re ravaged the
observatory in 1679; all of Heveliuss instruments and tools
were destroyed in the blaze. Though he quickly repaired
the space in time to observe the great comet of 1680 (and
named the constellation Sextans in honour of his destroyed
instruments) his health was permanently damaged by the
shock of the disaster and Hevelius died on his 76th birthday
in 1687.
HEVELIUSS HOME & BREWERY

Following Heveliuss marriage in 1635 to his neighbour Katherine Rebeschke, he took over a pair of tenement houses and
a brewery which came to him as part of his new-wifes dowry. This property expanded in 1649 when Hevelius inherited
his familys adjacent house and brewery following his fathers
death, the new property covering an area which lled most
of the space between (B-2/3) Korzenna, Bednarska and Zawrotna. The property would have consisted of the living quarters at the front, brewery to the rear and ultimately Hevelius
observatory on the roof. The Hevelius family was to live and
work here for many decades and the property is thought to
have remained in the family until the start of the 19th century. Photographs taken over a hundred years later suggest
parts of the structure from Hevelius time still existed but
these, like much of the surrounding city were destroyed in
the fall of Danzig in 1945. Despite attempts to re-create the
tenements in the 1950s, the ruins were nally pulled down
and a new residential block built on the site, a building which
today awaits renovation. While many sources quote the address of the Hevelius home and brewery as 53-55 Korzenna
today you will nd them allocated dierent numbers on the
same street. A unkempt plaque denotes the spot where the
great man once worked and lived.QB-2, ul. Korzenna 2/4/6
(corner of ul. Heweliusza), Gdask.
JOHANNES HEVELIUS MONUMENT
This statue was designed by Jan Szczypka and unveiled on
January 28th 2006, the 395th anniversary of his birth in the
gardens dedicated to him opposite the Old Town Hall. Hevelius is widely regarded as the last great astronomer to work
without lenses and instead made many of his discoveries using a quadrant and alidade, tools he is depicted with here as he
stares up at a wonderful recreation of his work on an adjacent
surviving pre-war building.QB-3, ul. Korzenna, Gdask.
OLD TOWN HALL
This marvellous 16th-century Renaissance building was
once home to the oce of Hevelius in his role as an Old
Town Council Lord. The former headquarters of the Council
of Gdask, the Old Town Hall served as the headquarters of
the Soviet Army during the dying days of WWII, probably
because it was practically the only building left standing in
the city at the time. Today the building is open to the public
and has become the focus of much creativity. Concerts are
held upstairs, and the superb Baltic Sea Cultural Centre (see
Culture & Events) now have their oces there. Theres also a
cellar restaurant, and a good bookshop on the ground oor.
QB-3, ul. Korzenna 33/35, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 10
51, www.nck.org.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00. Admission free.
A fairly spartan scene, the highlight is a 76 metre baroque

tower housing a 49-bell carillon, which has chimed on the
hour - every hour - since the 50th anniversary of the outbreak
of WWII in 1939. The tower contains a small museum dedicated to clock towers but this is only open to the public in the
summer.QC-3, ul. Profesorska 3, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301
15 95. Open 10:00 - 18:00. No visiting during mass please.
Tower Clock Museum open 09:00 - 15:00. From September 15 open only by prior arrangement. Tower Clock Museum Admission 10/5z, family ticket 20z, under-16s 1z.
ST. JOHNS CHURCH
Near the Motawa River between ul. witojaska and ul.
Straganiarska youll nd this huge brick vault dating from
the 1300s and the church in which Johannes Hevelius was
christened in 1611. Having had the misfortune to have
been built on swampland, what remains of the edice was
slowly sinking on one side although work in recent years
has tried to shore it up. Though it was burnt and completely
abandoned after WWII, its recently been the subject of a
huge clean-up that should see it return to being one of the
great landmarks of Gdask. While many of the interior ttings have been moved to St. Marys its famous 12 metre
high renaissance altar remains as do a number of tombs
and gravestones which give you a good idea of the citys
multi-cultural history. It now regularly plays host to exhibitions and is a superb concert venue thanks to the buildings
unique acoustics which make it one of the most haunting
venues in the city.QD-3, ul. witojaska 50, Gdask,
tel. (+48) 58 301 10 51, www.sw-jan.vn.pl. Open 10:00
- 18:00. No visiting during mass please.
UL. PIWNA
You can also wander along streets that were important
in the life of Hevelius. Beers fans will enjoy a walk down
Gdansks ulica Piwna, which was once named Jopengasse
after the popular Hevelius-made Jopenbier brand.QB/C-4.
ST. CATHERINES CHURCH

This 14th century brick church, the former parish church of
the Old Town and where Hevelius was once church administrator, is also his nal resting place. You will nd his tomb
at the rear behind the altar along with an epitaph funded
by his grandson nearly 100 years after the great mans death.
Following a re in 2006, which resulted in the ceiling collapsing, work to restore the church took a number of years.
89
Frei Stadt Danzig
Frei Stadt Danzig

FROM STARVATION
TO PROSPERITY
Danzig Senate
Courtesy of Wojciech Gruszczyski, www.danzig-online.pl
The history of the city of Gdansk is a rich and sometimes

complicated one. Described by Napoleon as the key to
everything when he marched eastward in the early 19th
century, the city has moved backwards and forwards between Polish and German/Prussian control over the centuries. Twice in its history the city has found itself functioning
as an independent City State, rst in the period 1807-1814
under the auspices of Napoleon and secondly in the interwar years. This second period highlighted the citys unique
and independent population, a bit German, a bit Polish, a
bit Kashubian, but rst and foremost Danzigers. It also became the focal point for disagreements which resulted in
the much wider conict that became WWII. What exactly
was Freie Stadt Danzig, how did it come about and what
remains of it today?
HISTORY
In 1918 Poland had existed in memory only for over a
century (123 years to be exact) since the Third Partition of
1795 imposed by her powerful neighbours saw Polands
territories carved up between Prussian, Habsburg and Russian empires. Gdansk/Danzig found herself in the Prussian
partition, then briey functioning as a Free City and later
becoming part of the German Empire. The end of WWI
brought with it a house-of-cards collapse, and a new independent Polish republic was established on the back of this
redress of power. Gdansk/Danzig became a huge sticking
point at the Versailles negotiations with both Germany and
Poland arguing strongly that the city with its port ought to
be put under its control. With agreement impossible, Germany in no position to rebuild the devastated local economy because of the paralysing eect of the war reparations
and the League of Nations both wary the city contained
a large German speaking population and fearful the Poles
might go Red like the Russians, a hashed together compromise saw the city instead designated as a Free City State.
To call what had been created a city, however, is a bit of
a misnomer. The area falling into the sphere of the Free
City actually consisted of a sizeable area - covering land of
nearly 2,000 square kilometres it comprised of 252 villages,
as well as towns like Zoppot (Sopot), Tiegenhof (Nowy
Dwor Gdanski) and Neutiech (Nowy Staw), stretched as
far as Malbork to the east and numbered a population of
366,000. It was placed under the Protectorate of the League
of Nations who appointed a High Commissioner to oversee
its running. Thus on January 10th, 1920, Freie Stadt Danzig
(or Wolne Miasto Gdask in Polish) came into being
Both Germany and Poland felt wronged by the League

of Nations decision but the residents of the city, used to
upheaval and facing starvation as the city reeled from the
after eects of war viewed this as a change for the better.
With the help of countries such as Poland, France, England and Sweden, the city started to rebuild its economy
from the ruins. Although long-standing pre-war policies
of Germanization had proved successful the fact was that
more than 80% of the population considered themselves
Danzigers rst often using the phrase ich bin von hier (I
am from here) to describe themselves. The rst years of the
new state were dicult and it was only thanks to Polish
food aid that many didnt starve. Slowly but surely things
started to improve, international companies started to
move into the city and local businesses demonstrating the
traditional Danzig qualities of innovation and entrepreneurship emerged. Heavy industry was built up including
ship building, the timber industry thrived as well as food,
brewing and confectionery. Some of the rms who helped
rebuild the Danzig economy are still present today such as
Dr. Oetker, the German food company. The 1920s saw a period of strong growth.
The changes the creation of the Free City brought were
far reaching. Citizens of Danzig were issued with new
passports, and anyone not wishing to surrender their German citizenship was obliged to leave. Elsewhere Danzig
coins, banknotes and stamps were brought into circulation. Originally called Marks, the Great Depression saw the
introduction of Danzig Gilders which became as much a
symbol of the city as the emblem showing 2 crosses and a
crown. Danzigers proudly boasted of their Danzig Dollars,
so similar were they in texture and colour to the American
dollar and the 30s were a time of increasing prosperity. To
push the point home the state even got its own national
anthem, a great little ditty making liberal use of the phrase
In Danzig it must surely be!
To make sure the Germans werent cheating the rules the
League of Nations appointed a series of High Commissioners to lord around, and these guys are worth a book on their
own. There were to be ten over the course of history but
these men were by no means the kings of all they surveyed;
domestic aairs were left in the hands of the Danzig Senate, and the clash of German, Polish and League interests
were a recipe for disaster which frequently left the commissioners at logger heads with the ruling party.
The League of Nations tried to keep the balance and was
keen to press the rights of the Polish minority. The Westerplatte Peninsula, for so long a pleasant little beach kitted
out with posh bathhouses, was handed over to the Polish
military which set about fortifying it with a trail of bunkers
to deter the Germans from any naughtiness. On top of
that, a Polish Post Oce was established within the city on
what is today ul. Obroncow Poczty Polskiej. Now, while that
sounds innocuous enough, the Germans assumed there
was more going on inside than Postman Patryk sorting
postcards.
And they were right, as proved by the erce armed resistance Nazi storm troopers met when they attempted to
capture it in 1939.
Maintaining the law were the Schutzpolizei, dapper
dressed coppers with pointy pike helmets. The police orchestra, led by the composer and major Ernst Stieberitz,
was globally renowned for its talent; though dont think for
a minute think this police force was some sort of comedy
outt. By 1935 the infamous deaths head skulls had been
added to their caps, an ominous sign of what was to come.
Having rst gained a representation in the Danzig Parliament with the elections of 1930, the Nazis would go onto
take power in 1933 with just over 50% of the vote which
was notably less than in parts of Germany or the other ceded territories. The NSDAP had managed just 16% in 1930
and even after 2 years of Nazi rule the 1935 election only
saw their share of the vote increase to 59% despite opposition parties being subjected to attacks, local radio being
used exclusively for Nazi propaganda and government ofcials threatened with the sack if they didnt vote for the
Nazi party. International relations plunged immediately.
Polish paper Gazeta Gdanska was outlawed, and Jews were
earmarked for specic harassment and persecution. The
Synagogue was nally demolished in May, 1939 - a year
after a similar eort had been thwarted by guards - and on
September 1, 1939 the Nazi warship, Schleiswig-Holstein,
shelled the Polish garrison based at Westerplatte. World
War Two had begun, the fate of the Free City of Danzig was
sealed.
FREE CITY OF DANZIG HISTORICAL ZONE
Now relocated into a more spacious venue in the shadow
of the Green Gate, what looks like little more than a three
minute diversion transpires to be one of the most fascinating surprises in the city. From 1920 until 1939 the city
you stand in found life as a semi-independent state, better
known as the Freie Stadt Danzig (Free City of Danzig).
This exhibition aims to celebrate those times, and more
specically the positives that came about. And there were
many; while the rise of fascism will always cast a pall over
the city, it must also be remembered this was far from the
nationalist hotbed that is always assumed. The campaign
for long term Germanization had been reasonably eective, yet still over 80% of the population regarded themselves as Danzigers rst and foremost - not Germans, and
not Poles, but the citizens of a unique melting pot in which
two nations co-existed. This heyday is remembered by way
of dozens of everyday treasures rescued from the inter bellum: on show are reams of collectibles, from bank notes to
beer bottles, from tourist guides to cigarette packets. The
exhibition features multimedia displays as well as a permanent exhibition on Danzig trams. While all the texts next
to the displays are in Polish make sure you ask for one of
the guidebooks available downstairs which clearly describe
each display in English (or Russian or German).QC-5, ul.
Dugi Targ 25/27, Gdask, tel. (+48) 602 27 80 51, www.
strefahistorycznawmg.pl. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Admission
8/5z. YN
NEW TOWN HALL
NEW TOWN HALL (NOWY RATUSZ)

Known fondly by locals of a certain age as ak, this
beautiful building was originally built as the Generalkommando (General Command) of the Prussian Garrison stationed in the city. Costing an eye-watering 6.2
million Marks the residence took three years to build
(1898-1901) and incorporated an annex and stables all
set in 1.8 hectares of parkland.
The new Free City Parliament (Volkstag) wanted the
building for its purposes but lost out to the League
of Nations High Commissioner Sir Richard Haking. In
1938 Nazi Gauleiter Albert Forster famously promised
C.J. Burkhardt (the last High Commissioner) that his
residence would be turned into a casino for party dignitaries once they were rid of him although in fact it
became the residence of General Max Bock and Lt. Col.
Hans-Ludwig Grosser during the war.
The new Communist authorities take over the building after the war but it was in the period 1957-1999
when a new legend was written. The student club Klub
Studentw Wybrzea ak or ak for short became a
cultural centre for the youth of the Tri-city as well as a
hotbed of anti-communist thinking. Stars like the Polish
James Dean Zbigniew Cybulski performed in the clubs
theatre while the parties are reported to have been
legendary. The building also featured one of the only
cinemas showing independent lms as well as a cafe
and bar. As described by the students themselves ak
was like a colourful island in a sea of gray: people banging doors and windows at all events, no matter what it
was. Thats when ak was a legend.
In 1991 the newly independent city authorities, now
staed by many of aks former members (Gdansk City
President Pawel Adamowicz is a self-confessed veteran) decided to create a new cultural centre here and
the dilapidated space was, for the next 8 years, one of
the best places to party in the city. The city took back
the building in 1999 and returned it to its former glory
making it the ceremonial Town Hall of the city. ak, the
cultural centre, lives on in a new purpose built property
in Wrzeszcz.
91
WWII
WWII
SIEGE
Crow
owds throng Langga
gasse
sse (ul. Dluga)
a) in September 1939. Within six years
ar the stre
street
et and
and the
t city woul
wouldd bbe raz
razed
ed to
to the
the ground
groun . | Free City
ty of Danzig Historical Zone
September 1, 1939, is forever etched in the history books

as the day the world went to war. The world would never
be the same again, and it started here, seventy-ve years
ago, with Danzig/Gdansk as the opening gambit in Hitlers
vile master plan.
PRELUDE
The city had long been caught in a tug of war between
Germany and Poland and the decision to make it a Free City
State by the League of Nations following World War I left
neither side happy.
Nonetheless the region thrived, and the two communities
co-existed for quite some time; the Germans controlled
the State senate, the police and much of the business,
while the Poles dominated the railways, port authority and
had their own postal service. The rise of Hitler changed
all that, and bitter rivalries soon came to the surface after
his election in next door Germany. Anti-Polish sentiment
spread rapidly, and by 1935 the local police force had
started keeping tabs on any Pole seen as a threat to the
German way.
The rise in tensions wasnt lost on the Poles. From 1925
the League of Nations bowed to pressure and consented to the deployment of a token 88-man Polish
force across the water from the Free City on the Polish
controlled Westerplatte Peninsula. As the years went
on, and Hitlers posturing became ever more threatening, the Poles continued to covertly strengthen their
foothold, smuggling in military hardware and secretly
building fortifications in breach of League of Nations
decrees.
OUTBREAK
On August 31, 1939, Nazi units dressed in Polish uniform infamously staged a mock attack on a radio tower in the German
border town of Gleiwitz (now Gliwice). Pictures of the victims
(actually corpses of concentration camp inmates dressed in
German uniforms) were ashed across the world, with Hitler
claiming a provocative attack by the Polish army. The following dawn, Germany launched a strike on Westerplatte, an attack that would ultimately kick o World War II.
Popular theory asserts the rst shots of the war were red
from the German warship the Schleiswig Holsten, supposedly visiting Gdansk on a goodwill mission. Wrong.
Logbooks recovered by the Nowy Port Lighthouse across
the water from Westerplatte prove beyond doubt that the
German battleship was pre-empted by a matter of three
minutes by a gun emplacement nestled halfway up the
lighthouse. The Poles, taken aback, missed this target entirely. Second time round they scored a direct hit, credited
to a Pole called Eugeniusz Grabowski, thereby in all likelihood making the lighthouse gunners the rst casualties in
a war that would go on to claim 55 million lives.
The German shelling of Westerplatte was simultaneously
supported by infantry attacks on the Westerplatte gateway,
with the Polish defenders repelling repeated attempts at
advance by the navy storm troopers. At precisely the same
time this assault had begun, another equally ferocious
battle was being waged at the small post oce in the citys
then-called Hevelius Square. Detachments of German police and SS laid siege to the 50 Polish post workers inside,
who put up a brave struggle for over 17 hours until casualties became intolerable, part of the building collapsed and
the Germans began to attack with amethrowers.
Yet while the post oce capitulated, the garrison at Westerplatte held on. The plan was simple: in the event of an attack in Gdansk the Polish navy, stationed in nearby Gdynia
(Poland), would sail in to help, aircraft from Puck would be
scrambled, and the bridge in Tczew would be blown to
stop a German advance into what was the demilitarized
zone of the Free State. In the event nearly everything that
could go wrong, did. The navy was caught out in the Bay
of Gdansk, while the air force was destroyed while still on
the ground. Polish customs ocers did succeed in blowing
the bridge at Tczew, crucially slowing the German advance
whose armour was gathered over in Szymankowo. They
paid for their bravery with their lives, and all were later shot
by their German opposites, themselves also armed and
primed for war. Today Stutthof museum has a post-execution picture of a grinning Nazi shooting party taken outside
the Pullman wagons in which the Polish ocers had lived.
Britain and France declared war on Germany on September 3, but hopes of outside help being directed to Poland
proved ill founded. At 10:15 on the morning of September
7, Major Henryk Sucharski took the decision to raise the
white ag. Gdynia surrendered two weeks later, and then
Hel - the nal Polish stronghold in Pomerania - fell on the
2nd of October by which time Poland had been invaded
from the east by the Soviet Union. Ironically, Hel, the nal
stand for the Poles, would also be the last place the Nazis
would relinquish in 1945.
UNDER THE REICH

Hitler had always made much of incorporating Danzig into
the Reich, yet somewhat surprisingly he only made two
visits to the city - a deep held suspicion of Danzigers, and
a fear of assassination explaining such apathy. The second
of these visits came on September 18, 1939, with an exultant Fuhrer arriving to Sopot on board his armoured train,
the Amerika. It was there he checked into the Kasino Hotel
(today the Sotel Grand), booking into rooms 251-253. His
stay lasted a week, during which time he received a delegation from Japan, visited the Schleswig-Holstein, Westerplatte and inspected a parade outside Dwor Artus on
Gdansks Dlugi Targ.
By this time fervent Nazis were already clamouring to rid
the region of all traces of Polonization. Intelligentsia and
other such targets were arrested and incarcerated in numerous camps and prisons, including the Victoriaschule (ul.
Kadki 1. B-5), which was used as a interview and processing centre, the city jail (now replaced by a newer model)
and Stutthof - later to morph into a notorious concentration camp. Flags, signs and anything else remotely Polish
was torched and destroyed. Governor and Gauleiter of the
region was Albert Forster, and his reign still arouses controversy and debate among both scholars and survivors.
Unlike other Gauleiters in annexed and occupied territories,
Forster followed a program of assimilation, granting thousands of locals German citizenship if they swore German
heritage.
Even more remarkably, those Poles rounded up and persecuted in the rst wave of arrests could seek German
citizenship, and even pursue compensation and restitution
for any property originally seized. Benign by some benchmarks, Forster was a form Nazi on others. Jews faced merciless persecution, Stutthof emerged as a true place of terror
and he is personally thought to have given the order for the
mass murder of over 2,000 Poles executed between 1939
and 1940. Eventually caught and held on the Hel Peninsula
trying to ee westwards, even his death remains a mystery
- some claim he was hung in Biskupia Gora after the war,
others that it was his body double who faced the hangman.
Yet more sources claim he was taken to Warsaws Mokotow
Prison and beaten to death. The truth, it appears, will never
be known.
THE END
For ordinary Danzigers the quality of life remained relatively
good for much of the war. Zoppot/Sopot, especially, became a favourite stamping ground for soldiers on R&R, and
in spite of rationing and occasional shortages life didnt get
worse until the closing stages. The rst warning signs that
all was not well came with the rst air raids, yet even so
allied bombers targeted the shipyards - home to munitions
factories producing U-Boats and V1 and V2 rockets - and
the Zaspa aireld. The war still seemed far o, even in 1943
when work commenced on whisking cultural treasures to
locations westwards.
By 1944 a dierent picture had emerged; Danzig had become a major transit point, not least with swarms of refugees eeing from the east, as well as a regular target for
bombing raids. By March, 1945, with the Red Army fast
approaching, the population had reached 1.5 million and
city stood on the precipice of chaos. Suspected deserters
were strung up from the lampposts and trees of al. Zwyciestwa (or Hindenburg Allee as it was then known), and the
city descended into a Dantean vision. Historian Antony
Beevor writes of the ensuing siege: Fighter bombers strafed
the towns and port areas. Soviet Shturmoviks treated civilian
and military targets alike. A church was as good as a bunker,
especially when it seemed as if the objective was to atten
every building which still protruded conspicuously above the
ground... Tens of thousands of women and children, terried
of losing their places in the queues to escape, provided unmissable targets.
Danzig had been designated a closed fortress, or Festung,
and the defence proved bitter and bloody. Zoppot/Sopot
fell on March 21, Gotenhafen/Gdynia on March 28, and
both faced the full wrath of a drunken, avenging army,
spurring the defenders of Danzig to ght even harder to
grant the remaining civilians the chance of evacuation.
Encircled and out-powered, even when the opportunity
to surrender was oered the Germans continued ghting;
that res were burning a month after Danzig was captured
is testament to the ferocity of the siege. Polish and Red
Army troops nally entered the city on March 30; Gdansk,
home to the rst shots of the war, now lay adrift on a sea
of rape and ruin.
93
WWII
THE MUSEUM OF WWII
THE MUSEUM OF THE SECOND WORLD WAR
(MUZEUM II WOJNY WIATOWEJ)
A conict that would
go onto claim 55 million lives started here
and therefore it seems
appropriate that a new
museum to commemorate this and to be called
The Museum of the Second World War is being built in
the city.
With the encouragement of the Gdansk-born Prime
Minister Donald Tusk, a competition was opened to
nd a design for the new museum. With a judging
panel which included the likes of Daniel Liebeskind
and the art historian and Director of the Museum of
London Jack Lohman, the Kwadrat architectural studio
from the nearby city of Gdynia was chosen to design
the new museum. They have created a design which
they claim will become a symbol of the city in much
the same way that the Crane or St. Marys church are
today.
Currently being built on land on (D-2) ul. Waowa donated to the museum by the city of Gdansk, the museum will nd itself next to the Radunia Canal and the
symbolic Polish Post Oce building on Pl. Obrocw
Poczty Polskiej. With over 7,000 sq. metres of exhibition
space the museum is planned to cost around PLN 230
million and will create a centre for education, culture
and research as well as show the tragic fate of Poland
in the years 1939-1945 set against the broader background of the global conict. The museum is now
expected to open at the beginning of 2016. For the
moment you will nd a permanent outdoor exhibition
located on the Westerplatte.
In preparation for the opening of the new museum,
the organizers have appealed for personal belongings linked to the stories of individuals and families in
order to show how the huge scale destruction, terror
and suering that the war brought, touched individuals. Of interest to them are photographs, letters, personal documents, press clippings, clothing, uniforms
etc. as they try to show life on all the fronts and in
the dierent camps. Conscious of how many of these
items will form important memories for families, the
museum is oering to pay for items to be copied and
these copies to be placed in the new museums collection. They ask that anyone interested in making a
donation to the new museum contact them using
the details here.Qul. Duga 81-83, Gdask, tel.
(+48) 58 323 75 20, eksponaty@muzeum1939.pl,
www.muzeum1939.pl.
WWII
WESTERPLATTE
A large protective arm smothering Gdasks Nowy Port to
its south, the peninsula of Westerplatte rst sprang to fame
as a popular health resort in the middle of the 19th century,
although its as a military zone and the place where the
opening shots of WWII were red that Westerplatte is more
notoriously remembered.
On March 14, 1924 Poland was awarded Westerplatte as a
location for bringing in military equipment and ammunition from abroad (Polish Military Transit Depot). Inaugurated on November 11, 1925 over the next 14 years Westerplatte grew from a depot with a 88-man attachment into
a huge defensive fort, and was considered so strategically
important to Hitler that his invasion of Poland eectively
started here.
The Polish troops on Westerplatte were in eect a crack
unit, by now numbering around 200 troops, whose orders
were to hold for 24 hours in the event of an attack to give
air, ground and sea forces the opportunity to support them
from mainland Poland. The speed and strength of the German attack put paid to that plan almost immediately with
the Polish navy caught out in the Bay of Gdansk and the bulk
of the air support from Puck destroyed on the ground. Yet the
troops on Westerplatte continued to hold out despite coming under intense bombardment by air, sea and 3,500 troops
on the ground. The hope was that France and Great Britain,
who joined the war on September 3, would provide support
but this never materialised. Eventually, on September 7, a
lack of water, ammunition and medical supplies convinced
the commanding ocer Major Henryk Sucharski to surrender the Poles heavily damaged stronghold. He and his troops
left Westerplatte to salutes from their captors in recognition
of their bravery in a battle that had cost just 15 Polish lives.
The battle, while of little strategic importance to the outcome of the battle for the city, still represents a source of
immense pride for many Poles who recognise the bravery
of their countrymen in their resistance to one of the countrys traditional foes.
Today Westerplatte is a memorial site featuring a scattering
of shelled bunkers, burnt-out ruins a couple of old snack
bars, souvenir stalls and a small museum open during the
summer.
There is also a permanent outdoor exhibition entitled Westerplatte: Spa-Bastion-Symbol on display. Split into four
parts, the rst shows the life of the peninsula from its formation and development as a spa resort which lasted up until
WWI. The second focuses on the development of the Polish
Military Transit Depot in the inter-war years which leads into
the third part and the defence of the peninsula in September 1939. The nal part shows the signicance of Westerplatte in the collective consciousness of Poles and its eect
on the policies of the communist government up to 1989.
To get to Westerplatte on public transport from the main
train station in Gdansk you rst need to take tram no. 8 to

the Music Academy and from there catch bus N106 to
Westerplatte. A direct but seasonal route (606) runs from
Gdansk train station on Saturday, Sunday and public holidays between June 28 and August 31. A more fun but more
expensive option is to take one of the boats moored along
the Gdansk waterfront which cruise through the shipyards
up to the peninsula and have food and drink options onboard or jump on the public water ferry F5 (see Arriving
& Transport).
GUARDHOUSE NUMBER 1
A small museum adding further colour to the events of
September 1939 and housed inside the former Guardhouse from which the strategic defence of Westerplatte
was conducted (albeit in a dierent location from where it
originally stood). The two shells outside were red from the
Schleiswig-Holstein during the attack.QJ-1, ul. Sucharskiego 1, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 343 69 72, www.mhmg.
pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00. From September open 09:00 16:00. Closed from October 1 until May. Admission 4/2z
(under-16s 1z). Y
NOWY PORT LIGHTHOUSE
A fascinating delve into Gdasks maritime history, the
citys Nowy Port Lighthouse was inspired by a long-lost
lighthouse built in 1871 in Cleveland, Ohio, in the USA. This
one in front of you was built in 1893, the 28-metre tower
functioned as a lighthouse, harbour pilots tower and timefacebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket
ball station until it was nally decommissioned in 1984. Its

principal claim to fame is its use by German soldiers in September 1939, and it was from the upper oors that a machine gun emplacement red the very rst shots of WWII.
Painstakingly restored by an amiable Polish-Canuck the
centrepiece of the lighthouse is a time ball, unveiled on May
21, 2008. During its former life it was synchronised to the
Royal Astronomical Observatory in Berlin but today it takes
its signal from Physikalisch-Technische Bundesanstalt (PTB)
in Braunschweig which is broadcast as a DCF77 long-wave
radio signal by the European Time Centre in Mainingen,
Germany. Time-balls were originally designed to allow ships
captains out at sea to synchronise their on-board clocks exactly before they headed back out, the dropping of the ball
being the signal to mark the hour - this would allow them
to calculate longitude resulting in more accurate navigation.
In August you can reach the lighthouse by water tram
F5 from Targ Rybny which stops at the lighthouse after
dropping o at Westerplatte on the opposite bank. In
September you should take any of trams 2, 3, 8 or 10 from
the Main Train Station and switch to the No 5 tram at the
Wyspianskiego stop (7th stop) heading in the direction of
Latarnia Morska. Note that the lighthouse closes at the end
of the season on September 28.QI-1, ul. Przemysowa
6a, Gdask, tel. (+48) 601 15 02 51, www.latarnia.gda.
pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00. From September open Sat, Sun
only: 10:00 - 17:00. From October closed until next season. Admission 8/5z. YN
95
Stutthof
Stutthof
Kommandatur... SS sta building
Long before the outbreak of war Nazi ocials in the Free

City of Danzig had been conspiring to build a camp designed to detain and ultimately exterminate undesirable
elements of the local population. By September 1, 1939
Stutthof, some 55km from the city was ready and waiting.
HISTORY
As early as 1935 lists detailing the names of Polish politicians, intellectuals, economists, religious gures and patriots (those considered most likely in Polish society to disrupt
the Nazi vision of the future) were being compiled by the
German Schutzpolizei. As covert preparations for war intensied Himmler himself visited Danzig twice in the summer of 1939, giving orders for the immediate strengthening
of the local police force. Furthermore August saw Gdask
jail emptied, the Victoriaschule (a girls school B-5 ul. Kadki
1) adapted to hold large numbers of prisoners, and Stutthof
identied as the site of a camp.
September 1, 1939, not only signalled the invasion of Poland, but also the beginning of a Saubersungsaktion (cleaning action) by the police force. Waves of mass arrests followed, with the rst batch of prisoners arriving in Stutthof
the following day. Stutthof, penned in by sea and forest,
but also serviced by rail lines, was seen as an ideal location
for a camp, and by February, 1940, it had emerged as the
principal holding area in Pomerania for enemies of the Nazi
state. At this stage, however, it was still classied as a civilian camp, and it wasnt until an ocial visit from Himmler in
November 1941 that it was transferred to the jurisdiction of
the Concentration Camp Inspectorate. What had started o
as a relatively small camp now welcomed transports from
across conquered Europe; by the end of the war Stutthof
had grown to include 26 sub-camps covering an area of
120 hectares, and holding an estimated 57,000 inmates.
Conditions were brutal with hard labour, epidemics and
starvation all culling prisoner numbers. Furthermore, those
who fell sick could expect to be murdered with a phenol
injection to the heart delivered by one of the camp doctors.
The second half of 1944 saw the decision to transport Jews
to Stutthof, a move that led to the killing process being
streamlined further with the addition of a gas chamber and
crematorium; of the 50,000 Jews imprisoned in Stutthof
only 3,000 are estimated to have survived.
With the Red Army approaching, and liberation in sight,

the Nazis played the nal card in their heinous game. An
earlier decree issued by Himmler had insisted no prisoners be liberated, and as such tens of thousands were
forced on arduous death marches to camps further west.
Scores perished on the way, with those unable to continue summarily shot and killed on the roadside. Soviet
troops nally entered the camp on May 9, 1945, greeted
by little more than 100 emaciated inmates who had
managed to hide during the evacuation process. Latest
research indicates that of the 100,000 prisoners incarcerated throughout Stutthofs existence, only a third of that
number survived.
The search for justice began immediately with the rst
Stutthof trial concluding in June, 1946. Eleven death sentences were passed, and these were carried out a month
later in front of a baying crowd of over 200,000 on J-4 ul.
Pohulanka in the Biskupia Gra district of Gdask. However, no commandant was ever brought to face a Polish
court; Max Pauly was executed by the British for crimes in
Neuengamme, while the second commandant, Paul Werner Hoppe, was only arrested years later in 1955. The man
behind the Stutthof death marches was eventually tried in
the west before receiving a sentence of nine years. Doctor
Otto Heidl, involved in countless phenol injections, cheated
justice by committing suicide in prison. The cases of over
1,900 SS men and women employed at Stutthof never
came to court.
GETTING TO STUTTHOF
The town of Sztutowo lies 55 kilometres east of Gdask
and is easily accessed by both car and bus. Journey
time by bus is about 80 minutes and costs 14zl. From
Gdansk bus station board the bus headed to Krynica
Morska, then jump o once you pass the perimeter of
the camp on your left hand side.
By car
You have the choice of three routes, one of which is
seasonal. You can either take road number 7 before going left just after crossing the Wisa (in the direction of
Mikoszewo). Once in Mikoszewo follow signs to Krynica
Morska. Youll nd Sztutowo on the way. Total distance
- 55km.
Alternatively, you could take road number 7 (GdaskWarszawa), before switching to road number 502 at
Nowy Dwor Gdanski. Then follow signs to Stegna, then
Sztutowo. Total distance - 65km.
The third route you can follow is seasonal - so be
warned. Take road number 501 until it reaches wibno.
From here take the ferry crossing (cars 15z, foot passengers 4z), and from there follow the signs. This scenic route is the shortest at 40km but is only possible
from the end of April until mid-October, and its
also closed in bad weather. Car parking at the museum
costs 6z. From October free.
MUZEUM STUTTHOF W SZTUTOWIE

In the years after the war Stutthof was allowed to fall into
disrepair, many of its buildings falling prey to both the elements and looters. The Kommandatur building at the front
- once the administrative heart of the concentration camp
- existed for over a decade as a tourist hotel, while the former DAW Armaments Factory passed into state hands. The
decision to turn Stutthof into a museum was only reached
in 1961, and what you see today is the result of years of research and restoration. Covering around 20% of the former
camp area, Stutthof Museum has undergone a signicant
program of modernisation.
Arriving at the main gates, tour guides are available from
the former SS guardhouse to the left, while sobering lms
detailing everyday life in the camp are shown in the Kommandatur further on. Screenings are shown every half
hour during the season (minimum of four people necessary, with the last screening at 16:30) and these act as a
tting prelude to what you are about to see. Its also here, in
corridors that once resounded to the thump of jackboots,
youll nd temporary exhibitions of inmate art as well as
the archive and book of remembrance (which is on display
variously depending on exhibits).
Having left the admin building the scale of atrocities hits
home on entering the rst proper exhibit: thousands of
shoes conscated from prisoners lie piled up in dusty
stacks. Its after this visitors pass through what was once
referred to as the death gate - the main entrance through
which tens of thousands entered the camp. Directly to the
right a hot and musty barracks tells the wartime history of
both the camp and the regime. The outbreak of the war is
covered in specic detail, with accompanying photos and
mugshots of the rst arrests and Nazi murders, while further on other sections deal with the camps construction
and the SS crews employed within; Himmlers visit is given
particular attention.
Just how fast Stutthof increased in size is illustrated next,
as well as individual stories of heroism and escape; only
Wlodzimierz Steyer is recognised as having successfully
ed, testament enough to the camps reputation as being
escape proof. A huge scale model, hidden behind glass,
demonstrates the size of the challenge prisoners would
have faced while planning such break-outs.
From here visitors cross the grass to reach the barracks
that formerly housed the womens block showing prisoner transports, striped uniforms and photographs of
gaunt looking prisoners. Most poignant of all, a host of
personal items are also on display. These include rings
crafted illegally by prisoners, dolls and pictures drawn
by children - lollipop trees et al. One barrack is stacked
solid with original triple tier bunks, while others are home
to a brutal looking operating theatre as well as a slab
on which prisoners would lie before being given a fatal
injection of phenol. The sight of clunky looking syringes
repulses the body.
Stutthof gas chamber
As the war lengthened the killing process was streamlined,

and next on your tour is a brick gas chamber used to execute anything up to a hundred prisoners at a time. A Star
of David and Catholic cross outside recognises the beliefs of
those who died, while to the right is a gloomy crematorium
used to burn corpses. Three original ovens have been preserved, and these are anked by memorial notices, candles
and oral tributes. Walk through further chambers outlining
the Nazis murderous methods, as well as rooms dedicated to
the death marches and the Nazi trials that followed after. An
original gallows stands outside, as well as cattle trucks used
to transport men and women from across occupied Europe.
As you loop around to the area of the new camp your route
takes you past an epic memorial that dominates the skyline.
Known as the Monument to Fight and Freedom, and designed by Wiktor Tolkin, it was unveiled on May 9, 1968, the
23rd anniversary of the camps liberation. Forming a part of
this landmark obelisk is a horizontal shaped reliquary containing the human ashes and bone fragments recovered
from the soil in the excavations that followed in the years
after liberation. Remembrance services are held here on the
rst Saturday of September to mark the creation of the camp.
Much of Stutthof was razed to the ground as the Nazis
sought to hide traces of their crimes, and as such the area
known as new camp now has 21 concrete blocks placed in
the area where the barracks once were, as well as a Star of
David marking what was once the Jewish area of the camp.
Walking across this wind blasted eld allows plenty of opportunity for reection, though dont think your visit has
ended. Around 500 metres into the forest to the north of
the perimeter is what is referred to as the Holocaust stake.
Prior to the construction of the gas chamber its here that
thousands of Jews were herded before being executed by
ring squads, their bodies then burned on funeral pyres.
A ring of symbolic stones marks the edge of the pit.Qul.
Muzealna 6, Sztutowo, tel. (+48) 798 41 80 24, www.
stutthof.org. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission free (contributions welcomed). Film exhibit 3z. Guided tours 140z.
Children under 13 should not visit the museum.
97
Phoenix from the flames
Phoenix from the flames

The city ocially fell on March 28 leaving Gdansk derelict
and largely deserted. Remaining children cheerfully played
with loaded anti-aircraft guns in the deserted Targ Weglowy
while their neighbours waited nervously for the rear units of
the Red Army to pour into the city and exact their revenge.
Conservative estimates suggest 90% of the city centre lay
in total ruin, and if that sounds impossible to comprehend
then just take a look at the pictures displayed in the Golden
Gate at the top of ul. Dluga to get an idea of the Hiroshimastyle destruction. Only 38 houses in the whole of the city
centre are reputed to have survived the siege, with debris
mounted up to the height of several metres.
Archiwum Panstwowe
Those who visit Gdansk for the rst time are often left surprised and in turn captivated by the beauty and atmosphere
of what is commonly referred to as the old town. First of all
we ought to clear that name up the area around ul. Dluga
and Dlugi Targ is technically Downtown with Old Town actually closer to St Catherines church and the nearby Old Town
Hall (Ratusz Starego Miasta). The small matter of names to
one side, what is popularly referred to as the old town is a
quite remarkable place particularly when you consider that
what looks like an ancient city borne of centuries of development was nothing more than a smoking pile of rubble
in 1945 and in some places it is still being rebuilt today. The
citys story in terms of people as well as bricks and mortar is
even more remarkable and a testament to the ability of ordinary people to overcome the most devastating setbacks.
As covered elsewhere in these pages, many of the major cities
in what is today Poland, paid a heavy price in WWII. The country lost over twenty percent of its pre-war population while
millions found themselves strangers in their own land thanks
to the decisions agreed at the Yalta Conference by Stalin, Roosevelt and Churchill. Pre-war Polands borders were moved
westward by hundreds of kilometres in some places leaving
the residents of cities like Wilno (today Lithuanian Vilnius),
Lwow (Ukrainian Lviv) and Grodno (Belarusian Hrodna) forced
out of their homes and o their land sometimes brutally.
But not only Poles found themselves being shunted westward so did surviving Germans. Between World War I and
World War II, Gdansk and the surrounding area had been the
Free City of Danzig and for most of the previous 125 years
part of Prussia and the German Empire. Even for the centuries prior to that when the city had been under Polish rule, it
had been home to many ethnic Germans. The situation by
1945 was tragic Danzig, unlike say Warsaw or Krakow, was
seen as an enemy city by the British and American bombers,
who did much of the damage and by the Red Army who
then engulfed it from the east. The incorporation of Danzig
into the Nazi Reich had been the event which eectively
started World War II and by 1939 many of the local population had fervently supported Hitler. The collapse of Nazi
Germany saw the city return to Polish control and overnight
Danzig become Gdansk. Most ethnic Germans who had
not been killed ed west by whatever means they could.
In fact, such was the ferocity of the Soviet advance that res
in the old town were blazing a month after the ghting had
ceased. The indefatigable St Marys Basilica, a dening mark
on Gdansks skyline, burned so ercely that reports claim
the bricks and bells in the tower melted, while the granary
buildings on Granary Island (Wyspa Spichrzw) took an
even harder hit; the inferno there continuing to rage until
well into autumn. The material and economic cost was immense, the human cost incalculable.
The pre-war population had stood at 400,000, of which
16,000 were registered to be of Polish descent. By the
time hostilities ceased that gure was 124,000, of which
only approximately 3,200 were Polish. How many of the
pre-war population died and how many ed is impossible
to compute, but either way Gdansk was a shattered shell
of its former self. Reprisals against the remaining German
population went unchecked, with murder and theft de rigueur by some drunken bands of Soviet soldiers. But it was
rape that was to become the most virulent problem. Its
estimated that two million German women were violated
by Red Army troops and the local Danzigers fared worse
than most. Having been terrorized at night, the surviving
Germans were expected to work next day. On April 25 the
Mayor of Gdansk decreed all Germans report for rubble
clearing duties every day at 7am. It was backbreaking work,
and not without its grisly diversions; six thousand bodies
were cleared under the detritus in April alone. But this was
only to be a short term measure; verication panels were
set up to interview individual German citizens to determine
if they could stay in the city of their birth. These were essentially pre-determined kangaroo courts, and within a matter
of years all traces of the German population had gone.
The place of the exiled Germans was lled by those Polish
refugees, that had been displaced from the eastern territories that now came under Lithuanian, Belarusian and Ukrainian control. And it was these displaced Poles, as well as
the surviving local Polish and Kashubian communities, that
rebuilt the city and made it their own.
Its amazing to think that the Gdansk you see today came
within a ne hair of being turned into a grey, concrete
forest; the city was being swamped with settlers, and understandably the priority was not to honour history and
aesthetic values, but to provide these war weary pioneers
with a roof. With people living in squalid, overcrowded conditions it wasnt long until some began to campaign for a
plan which would have seen St Marys rebuilt, but the rest
of the area surrounded by the Orwellian style blocks youd
nowadays nd in Warsaw. Not only was this master plan
practical, it also gained support from the patriotic lobby.
The argument was straight forward the Poles didnt want
to rebuild the German city of Danzig. They wanted a new
city, one that was indisputably Polish. No-one captured
the spirit of this movement more eloquently than Edmund
Osmiaczyk, and his re and brimstone words made it into
an issue of the inuential Odrodzenie: We are not going
to cry over ashes, we wont rebuild these reminders of the
Teutonic Knights and the power they once wielded. We
dont want to remember. We will build in the Polish style,
not that of the Teutonic invaders.
Archiwum Panstwowe
Unfortunately, this Polish style they spoke of verged on

the moronic. Plans that were oated included the construction of a skyscraper between ul. Korzenna and ul.
Podwale Grodzkie, as well as a large four storey, 125 metre
long concrete carbuncle by the train station (this design,
devil be damned, was partially realized). Heated discussion
continued over the next couple of years, but nothing was
agreed and the job of clearing the city clanked on in the
background. Eorts to tidy the town were doubled in 1947,
and over 300,000 cubic metres of rubble were cleared in
that year some of which would be used in the production of breezeblocks, the rest dumped unceremoniously
in Gdansks 48 pre-war cemeteries. Indeed, the organization of the clean-up operation was a asco. Chaos reigned,
accidents were frequent, and worse still for the workers,
bodies were still showing up everywhere 1948 brought
with it the discovery of a particularly nasty mass grave, that
of 40 women buried between the Covered Market and St.
Nicholas Church.
However, the year also brought with it the long overdue
decision with what to do with downtown Gdask. The rebuilding commission chose to reconstruct six of the central
streets that now form the meat and bones of the old town
- ulica Duga, Ogarna, Chlebnicka, Mariacka, w. Ducha and
the Motawa Embankment. However, even this was a compromise. While the structures that sprang up here suggest
the buildings were rebuilt to the last detail, that is in actual
fact a fallacy. The majority are in eect little more than sofacebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket
cialist, utilitarian blocks that have been graced with fancy

townhouse facades. Either way, ultimately two major aims
were reached: the construction of quick, suitable housing,
and the construction of a quarter that retained the atmosphere of a historic town centre.
Its interesting to note that architects did use some semblance of artistic license. Reconstructed burgher houses
once adorned with German motifs and mottos were given
a Polish language makeover, while historic buildings that
hadnt been alive for hundreds of years were resurrected
from the grave, and built once more to the designs detailed
in recovered manuscripts and aging watercolours. By the
same mark other buildings inexorably linked to German
rule were condemned to memory; one such structure
was the Danziger Hof on what is now Way Jagieloskie.
Designed by Karol Gause of Berlin this neo-renaissance
masterpiece survives only in postcards, and a damn shame
too. Built between 1896 and 1898 the 120-room hotel was
the most prestigious in town, its quarters hosting the Tsarist prince Alexei, members of the Vanderbilt dynasty, Kaiser
Wilhelm II and even the regional HQ of the British & Polish
Trade Bank.
But history is a funny animal, and dont bet on never seeing
it again. The reconstruction of Gdansk has continued since
that time with large parts of the waterfront only being rebuilt in the 70s and 80s. Even now empty plots can still be
seen all over the city, while Granary Island is a permanent
reminder of the destruction that was caused. But the city
was brought back to life in those post-war years and its difcult to guess as you walk along the old town streets that
anything so devastating could ever have befallen the city
and many of those who now call it home.
Archiwum Panstwowe
99
Malbork
Malbork
BY CAR
Malbork can be reached easily in a car thanks to the nearby
A1 highway which runs south from Gdansk passing by Malbork on its way. If you are coming from Warsaw it is recommended that you head east out of the city following signs
for the A2 autostrada to Lodz and Poznan. Approximately
100km from Warsaw you should turn north onto the A1
towards Gdansk. Whichever way you approach from you
should turn o onto route 22 which will bring you into the
centre of Malbork in about 15 minutes. The castle will be on
your left as you enter the town.
Alternatively you can hire a taxi to take you and bring you
back. While considerably more expensive than the train,
the cost is still not prohibitive to most western visitors especially if there are a few of you. To book a taxi from Gdansk,
which will cost you a minimum of 200z depending on
waiting time, call Neptun Taxi on (+48) 58 511 15 55.
MALBORK CASTLE TODAY

Malbork Castle is one of the countrys most impressive
historical sites and attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors every year. Ongoing renovation are returning more of
the castle to its original look and it is quite easy to spend
a whole day here discovering each of the castles, viewing
the various permanent and temporary exhibitions and relaxing in the grounds or one of the two on-site restaurants.
A visit to the castle can be extremely rewarding but note
that it involves a lot of walking and there are a number of
narrow staircases which need to be negotiated. In addition
to surplus of energy remember to bring a comfortable pair
of walking shoes and a bottle of water, particularly on hot
summer days.
The knights power began to wane with defeat at the Battle

of Grunwald in 1410 and the castle became the property of
the Polish crown in 1457 when unpaid knights seized it and
sold it on. For the next three hundred years Malbork served
as a Royal Residence, and became a stopover point for
monarchs making the journey between Gdansk and Warsaw. This ended in 1772 when Poland was partitioned and
Malbork fell under Prussian control. The castle was turned
into a military barracks and a cotton workshop added to
the Grand Masters Palace. For the next three decades old
Malbork (now Marienburg again) took a hammering, with
cloisters and windows bricked up, gateways enlarged and
outhouses dismantled. That the castle survived further attempts at modernization was thanks only to a protracted
campaign by the citizens of Berlin. Spurred by this public
outcry the Prussian state embarked on something of a
U-turn, and a huge programme of restoration was undertaken. The results were impressive, and by the early 20th
century much of the castle had regained its original look.
Mallbork Castle
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The small town of Malbork some 60km south of Gdask on the

main railway line between Warsaw and the coast oers visitors
not only the worlds biggest brick castle, but a number of other
poignant and occasionally bizarre sights and sensations to
boot. A delightful mix of medieval architecture, grey communist-era monstrosities and a handful of fascinating churches
and monuments, Malbork is on closer inspection more than
the sum of its UNESCO-listed fort. An improved range of accommodation possibilities and one or two better than average
places to eat and drink make an overnight stay an attractive
choice for those whose tourism philosophy extends beyond
the indignity of spending a few hectic days hurtling around
the country and being herded on and o a tour bus.
HISTORY OF THE CASTLE

The UNESCO-protected Malbork (Marienburg) Castle came
to prominence in 1309 when the Teutonic Knights made it
their military and political headquarters. The largest brick
castle in the world, which at its height covered a total of
21 hectares, was the centrepiece in what was once a ring
of 120 castles surrounding the Teutonic Knights territory.
BY TRAIN
Trains run regularly to Malbork from both the Tri-city and
Warsaw. With both local and Intercity trains running to
Malbork from the Tri-city it is worth spending the extra
money to travel via Intercity or Express trains en-route
to Warsaw and further south. The journey should take
between 40 and 90 minutes depending on which part
of the Tri-city you are travelling from. Be warned that
Polish train stations carry the bare minimum number of
signs informing you of the station you have reached so
you should pay attention at stops to make sure you dont
miss yours. For more information see the excellent www.
rozklad-pkp.pl. The train station is less than 1km northeast of the town centre which can be reached on foot in
less than 10 minutes. Taxis are parked outside, and cost
around 10z.
TAXIS
Malbork is a fairly compact town and the main street, Malbork Castle and the other sights worth seeing are all in
walking distance of each other. If you decide to take a taxi
these are companies that we can recommend.
WHAT TO SEE
Sightseeing in Malbork for many visitors IS the Castle but
once you are done with the castle, it is worth giving the
town a closer inspection. It reveals a number of other sights
that despite being nowhere near as grand are both colourful and interesting.
But the 20th century wasnt kind to Malbork. On May 1,

1933 the swastika was raised over the castle, and for the
next twelve years it was to become a favourite haunt of
high-ranking Nazis. Plans were drafted to build an amphitheatre in the castle grounds, and it was in the Great Refectory that Nazi Gauleiter Albert Forster made a landmark
speech in 1939 announcing that the territories on the left
bank of the Wisla were to be incorporated into the Reich.
Malborks grandeur wasnt lost on the Nazis, and for the
next few years its imposing courtyards and halls were used
for swearing in ceremonies by the Hitler Youth and League
of German Girls. With the tide of war turning steps were
taken to protect Malbork, and in 1944 all stained glass was
painstakingly removed. Even still, Malbork and its castle
were smashed as the Marienburg Task Force and 2nd Russian Strike Force faced o in 1945. Over half the castle was
destroyed, and black and white pictures from the day show
the castle as little more than a desolate set of ruins. With no
hope in sight the retreating Nazis dynamited the bridges
spanning the Nogat, and the Siege of Malbork was lifted.
This all left Malbork in bad shape, with the brunt of the damage aecting the east side. Plundered by looters and abandoned by the state - who understandably had the unenvious task of rebuilding what was left of Poland - Malbork fell
into abject decline. Finally, on January 1,1961, the Malbork
Castle Museum was founded and restoration work given the
green light. It was a huge eort, but the meticulous restoration work was nally rewarded in 1997 when the castle was
recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
Made up of three distinctly dierent ensembles known

as the High Castle, Middle Castle and Outer Bailey and
surrounded by a vast dry moat, the most impressive
sights all lie within the High Castle, the Brethren Knights
original monastery, and the Middle Castle which served
as the centre of the Teutonic Knights political activity. Among the jaw-droppingly awesome collection of
buildings, impossible to miss are the 14th-century Palace
of the Grand Masters, the original residence of the socalled Grand Master of the Teutonic Order. The vaulted
interiors are marked by columns that fan out like palm
trees, supposedly to remind the knights of their Palestinian roots, and its inside the main refectory youll nd one
such palm supporting an entire ceiling - a cannonball
hole can be spotted on a nearby wall from when Polish
soldiers tried to collapse the pillar. They missed by just
the narrowest of margins, the result of their vandalism
still in evidence.
Also to visit is the breathtaking St. Marys Church, the
Grand Masters nal resting place and the impressive
courtyard in the centre of the Middle Castle. Many rooms
are open to the public, including during the summer a
wonderful recreation of the Castles mill hidden away in
a garden in the southwest corner of the High Castle. In
contrast to the spartan, simple style of the Grand Masters
Chambers the rest of the castle is a trove of treasures,
and includes an enormous collection of weaponry as
well as an amber exhibition. Other rooms are devoted
to the Teutonic life and feature the requisite collection of
armour, ags and goblets.
Ticket prices come inclusive of a guide and you can either
join one of the regularly departing groups or pick up one
of the limited numbers of audioguides. Tickets, tours and
information are all found in the modern Malbork Castle
Museum building set just outside the walls on the southeast side.QG-3, ul. Starociska 1, tel. (+48) 55 647 09
02, www.zamek.malbork.pl. Castle open 09:00 - 19:00.
From October open 10:00 - 15:00. Note that the church
in the High Castle MAYBE closed during summer 2014
for restoration work. Admission 39.50/29.50z. From October admission 29.50/20.50z. Y
101
Malbork
WHAT TO SEE
The rst thing youll notice about the old town in Malbork,
which can trace its history back to the XIV century, is that
it no longer exists. After spending 30 minutes wandering
around with a map trying to nd it, the fact that youre in
it suddenly, somewhat depressingly, dawns on you. Almost
completely destroyed during erce ghting between the
retreating Germans and the Red Army towards the end of
WWII, the communist town planners set about demolishing
what was left of the old town (usable bricks were shipped
o to help re-build the old towns of Gdansk and Warsaw)
and then rebuilding the area with gay abandon. They put
up large modern tenement blocks where the original medieval buildings had stood leaving the few surviving structures to stand amongst these new blocks as if they had been
dropped into the landscape from outer space. Because of
its tragic modern history there are many towns and cities in
Poland whose pre-war beauty was destroyed during WWII
to be replaced by functional concrete structures that aged
badly. However in all our time writing guides in Poland we
have never seen the damage caused by WWII so clearly
demonstrated. Particularly poignant are old photographs
of the bustling pre-war town centre (which was set around
what is now Trakt Jana Pawla II (A-2) which can be seen
inside the Old Town Hall (Ratusz Staromieskie) and then to
compare them to the deserted streets youll nd today on
what is now an old, but cleaned-up, housing development
with communist-era shopping arcade. That said, what little
that did survive WWII is worth hunting down.
CHURCH OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST
The church of St. John the Baptist has occupied this spot since
the late XIII century but has taken many forms due to rebuilding
after suering damage in numerous wars. When it was originally built it was the rst place of worship outside of the castle
walls. This rst church was completely destroyed in the Thirteen
Year War between the Kingdom of Poland, with her Prussian allies and the Teutonic Order during which Malbork came under
Polish rule. A new brick church with wooden belfry was built
following the end of the war (between 1467 and 1523) but was
destroyed once again at the end of the XVII century.
Damaged again in the battle for Malbork in 1945 the church
was repaired and given to the Sons of Divine Providence, a
Roman Catholic religious order, in 1957. The church contains some artefacts worth seeking out including an early
XV century limestone sculpture of St. Elizabeth of Turin, a
Neo-Gothic altar and two XIV century granite fonts. Pick up
a leaet inside the church for a few more points of interest but please do not visit when a service is taking place.
QG-4, os. Stare Miasto 22, tel. (+48) 55 273 37 94, www.
jan.rel.pl. Open during mass and by prior arrangement.
MARYS GATE
Walking south along Trakt Jana Pawa II takes you to the old
towns nal gem. The scruY-looking Brama Mariacka (Marys
Gate) like Brama Garncarska was originally built in the second half of the XIV century on the instructions of Teutonic
Grand Master Winrich von Kniprode as part of a new system
Malbork
of defences for the town. During the centuries a moat and
later a second line of defensive walls were built to protect the
gate while the inside once housed a chapel. In 1838 a re destroyed the roof which was rebuilt with a new structure added featuring a clock tower. Completely burnt out by re and
riddled with bullet holes at the end of WWII the gate stood
desolate until the mid-60s when it was nally rebuilt. An external staircase was added in the 1970s and a cafe operated
inside for a time before another re in the early 1980s caused
a great deal of damage inside the building which weakened
the structure as well. Today it stands waiting its turn to be
repaired and cleaned up and in the meantime plays host to
the unusual Baszta pub.QG-4, Al. Roda.
MONUMENT OF KING KAZIMIERZ IV
JAGIELLOCZYK
On June 8, 1457 Polish king Kazimierz IV Jagiellonczyk rode
into Marienburg (Malbork) Castle after Poland took possession of it from Teutonic mercenaries and took homage
from the town burghers. This event marked the beginning
of the Polish era in the town which was to last for over three
hundred years up until the First Partition of Poland by Prussia and Russia in 1772. King Kazimierzs (Casimir in English)
reign is seen as the beginning of the Polish Golden Age during which time the Jagiellonian dynasty became one of the
leading royal houses in Europe. Kazimierz was the second
son of Wladyslaw II Jagiello, the Grand Duke of Lithuania
who took Christian baptism and married the Polish Queen
Jadwiga so uniting the two nations in an alliance that would
deal the rst of a series of ultimately fatal blows to the Teutonic Order at the Battle of Grunwald in 1410. Kazimierz,
already Grand Duke of Lithuania, came to the throne of Poland in 1447 at the age of 20 and his 45 years on the throne
saw Poland and Lithuanias position strengthened through
Kazimierzs marriage to Elisabeth of Austria and a series of
alliances with other central European dynasties which eventually saw the combined Polish and Lithuanian territories
stretch from Estonia to the Black Sea. Kazimierz died in 1492
and is buried in the Royal Crypt at Wawel in Krakow.
This 3.5m tall bronze statue was unveiled in 2010 and is intended to remind people that the town has a strong Polish
history as well as Prussian/German and Teutonic.QB-2, Pl.
Kazimierza Jagielloczyka.
TOURIST INFORMATION
MALBORK WELCOME CENTER
The local Tourist Information Centre can be found in a
beautiful building in the centre of the town, 10 minutes walk from the train station and a further 10 from
the castle. If youre arriving in the town this should be
your rst point of call to pick up maps, guides and information. Youll also nd a range of gifts and souvenirs
and not least a very friendly and helpful, multi-lingual
sta.QH-4, ul. Kociuszki 54, tel. (+48) 55 647 47 47,
www.visitmalbork.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. From October open 08:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
OLD TOWN HALL

Standing forlornly on Trakt Jana Pawla II, is the rather splendid but awfully lonely looking Ratusz Staromiejski (Old Town
Hall). Its current form dates from 1380 although it has been
altered many times over the years following attacks and
sieges on the city. It was home to the towns authorities all
the way up to 1929 when they moved to the new town hall
found on the other side of the road from Marys Gate. The old
town hall then became home to the towns police and it was
a place of terror for local Poles and resistance ghters during
the war. On the outside walls youll nd plagues honouring
the ghters of the Mody Las (Young Forest) who fought a
resistance war against the Germans between 1941 and 1945
in the area around the northern Vistula river, Warmia and Masuria, and another honouring activists who campaigned to
Polonise Malbork in a plebiscite after the war.
The old town hall stood derelict for a number of years after
the war as there were greater priorities at the time and was
eventually rebuilt between 1959 and 1961. These days it
stands as a small reminder of what this part of town once
looked like and the covered arcade at its front is an example
of how the walkway that ran along this side of the street
would have looked. The Ratusz today houses a Youth Cultural Centre and you can walk into the ground oor where
you will see a collection of photos of a bustling old Malbork
which serve to reinforce the rather ghostly atmosphere of
the area.QG-4, Stare Miasto.
POTTERS GATE
At the junction of ul. Pilsudskiego and ul. 17-go Marca is the
attractive Brama Garncarska or Potters Gate, which in the
past has also gone by the names Holy Spirit Gate or Elblag
Gate. Built in the second half of the XIV century as part of
the original defensive town walls and gave access to the city
to routes from the east. Built of brick with three spans, ve
oors and a four-sided tiled roof, note the access at the top
of the gate for winching supplies. The building served as a
youth hostel before the war and was rebuilt in 1955 after
suering damage during WWII. Today it has been restored
and they only way to see inside is to go into the jewellers
now housed on the ground oor.QG-4, ul. Pisudskiego.
THE LATIN SCHOOL BUILDING
A brand new building constructed around the ruins of
what was once the Latin School. Building rst took place
here in the late XIV century and though its original purpose
is unknown it is thought to have been the home of the
Brotherhood of St. George.
From the second half of the XVI century a school was here
and from 1603 it was called the Latin School. Over the next
250 years the building was extended and modernised until
the school nally moved into new premises on what is now
ul. 17-go Marca in 1866. It appears that the building was
then used as a warehouse before suering re in 1899 and
destruction in 1945. The lower walls on the river side have
survived since medieval times and what you see today will
be home to a Cultural and Educational Centre incorporating a planetarium, museum of crafts and conference centre
from September 2014.QG-4, Stare Miasto.
seasonal dishes from local produce

delicious cakes
excellent coffee
Przystanek Patrzakowie
caf & restaurant
Kociuszki 25, Malbork (7 minutes from the castle)
www.patrzalkowie.pl
103
Leisure
Leisure
STATEK PIRAT
Available until the end of September (subject to the
weather), the Statek Pirat (literally the Pirate Ship) has
become a feature of the Sopot summer. The 40 minute
cruises (which depart every 80 minutes from 11:00 until
dusk - you do the maths) around the bay are strangely
therapeutic, particularly when you take advantage of
their on-board bar. Also keep an eye out for their sunset cruises which are well-worth experiencing and their
on-board galley serving simple but good Polish dishes.
QM-4, Molo (Pier), Sopot, tel. (+48) 724 24 24 81,
www.statekpirat.pl. Ships sail everyday, on the hour,
from 11:00 until dusk. Tickets 30/20z. Children under
3 years free. Y
BOWLING & BILLIARDS

CENTRUM U7 GDASK
Bowling alley and pool hall. Also at:N-2, ul. witojaska
133, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 662 27 77, www.u7.pl. Open
10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00.QC-3, Pl. Dominikaski
7, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 305 55 77, www.u7.pl. Open
10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. Y
GO-CARTING
Takke a tr
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BIKE RENTAL
NIE DOTYCZY ROWERW
QC-4, ul. Myska 14, Gdask, tel. (+48) 603 76 20 82,
www.niedotyczyrowerow.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. 15z
for one hour, 29z for three hours, 49z for a day. Y
TOURBIKE/ SOPOCKI ROWER
Seasonal rental point open until the end of September
working from the terrace of the Sheraton hotel. Open
09:00-20:00. Included in the price are maps, helmets (for
adults and children) and child seats. They can organise bike
tours (in English) for 6-8 people.QM-6, Skwer Kuracyjny,
tel. (+48) 518 51 84 58, www.sopockirower.pl. 20z/1
hour, 60z/day. N
BOAT RENTAL
& RIVER CRUISES
CZARNA PERA
The sister ship of the Galleon Lew oers a similar experience with English and German speaking guides on board.
On the 13:00 and 17:00 sailings on Fri. Sat and Sun the
German is replaced by Russian. The ship cruises to Westerplatte and back again with departures at 09:00 (for groups
by prior arrangement), 11:00, 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, 19:00
and are priced at 30/20z one-way. Return journeys from
Westerplatte leave at 09:35 (for groups by prior arrangement), 11:35, 13:35, 15:35, 17:35, 19:35. Find it docked at
the quay next to the Green Gate (Zielona Brama).QC-5,
Dugie Pobrzee, Gdask, tel. (+48) 519 14 02 01, www.
perlalew.pl. Y
GALEON LEW
Ship ahoy - take a pirate cruise on a galleon contraption
from Gdask to Westerplatte. Cruises leave from the dock
down next to the water close to the Green Gate (Zielona
Brama) each day with journeys timed at 10:00, 12:00, 14:00,
16:00, 18:00. Catch the return at 10:35, 12:35,14:35, 16:35,
18:35. Youll get an English and German language guide
on-board. Great for the kids, but even better for the adults
(think beer and sea shanties). Once it has nished cruising for the day it turns into a quayside bar for the evening.
QC-5, Dugie Pobrzee, Gdask, tel. (+48) 519 14 02 01,
www.perlalew.pl. Y
KAJAKIEM PO GDASKU
Rent a kayak and paddle around the Old Town. Available
throughout the summer subject to the weather.QK-4,
ul. abi Kruk 15, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 305 73 10, www.
kajakiempogdansku.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed from
October. Two-person kayak: 20z per hour, 50z per day.
N
PIRATE SHIPS
A pair of mock pirate ships (Dragon and Regina) which take
turns to oer cruises of the bay with on-board bar and grill
restaurant. Also available for private charter, the ships anchor at the end of the breakwater opposite the aquarium.
Ships sail in high season (generally May - September) and
become oating restaurants at other times of the year.QO1, Al. Jana Pawa II (Nabrzee Prezydenta), Gdynia, tel.
(+48) 507 96 91 83, www.dragon-dragon.pl. Open 11:00
- 15:30. Tickets 30/20z.
KART CENTER
If you like karting, youll love Kart Center. A high-speed
520 metre track full of twists, turns, chicanes and reputedly the only bridge on a Polish go-kart circuit. You race
the clock, not each other, and you will be presented
with a set of lap times after your 8-minute series of laps
with which you can retreat with to the on-site bar to
compare with your mates. Special functions catered
for, all equipment available to hire and late night racing have made this a very popular venue for budding
Kubicas.QL-5, ul. 3 Maja 69c, Sopot, tel. (+48) 692 27
79 78, www.kartcenter.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. Race sessions last approx. 8 mins.
30-35z. Y
GOLF
MINIGOLF CLUB SOPOT
The first officially registered minigolf club in Poland
its very basic but nonetheless a bit of fun. Located
along the beach at entrance 42 near Sopot Sailing
Club. Putting fee 10z.QM-6, ul. Hestii 5-7, Sopot,
tel. (+48) 502 74 86 61, www.mgolf.info. Open
11:00 - 20:00.
SIERRA GOLF CLUB
One of the two most popular golf clubs in the area
with this one located near Wejherowo. They offer 18
holes, with green fee and there are also two simulators.QPtkowice, Wejherowo, tel. (+48) 58 778 49
00, www.sierragolf.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Simulators cost 60-100z per hr. Driving range 18z for 30
balls.
105
Leisure
INDOOR ATTRACTIONS
CENTRUM HEWELIANUM
Set inside the guts of the Napoleonic-era Fort Grodzisko,
set into the hill overlooking the city, the Centrum Hewelianum is a science park/museum built to honour Johannes
Hevelius (Jan Heweliusz in Polish), the famed astronomer
born in this city in 1611. The exhibition consists of two
parts, the rst of which is called Wehiku Czasu - Czowiek
i Pocisk (Time machine - the Human and the Bullet). Set
inside the brick tunnels of this 19th century fortress, the
exhibition recreates what the fort would have looked like
when it was rst built, its atmospheric corridors lled with
cannons, weaponry and lifelike mannequins in period
uniform. Scale models and pictures go a long way to illustrating what life must have been like defending such
an outpost although some English translations would be
welcome for non-Polish visitors. The second part of the exhibition is titled Energia, Niebo i Soce (Energy, Sky and
Sun). This does a good job of making sense of science in
a fun manner thats accessible to all ages. Featuring plenty
of machines, computers and interactive gadgets this is one
of those museums that encourages visitors to get hands
on, with the laws of physics and astronomy explained in an
idiot-proof way. The addition of some English translations
to the Energy, Sky and Sun exhibition have helped to improve the experience plus keep an eye out for a WWII antiaircraft battery located in the grounds. Also recently added
are a new set of exhibits under the titles Around the World;
Puzzle; Time Machine - Fun with History and Pan Kleks
Laboratory which is based on the character of a popular
Polish childrens book.QA-3, ul. Gradowa 6, Gdask, tel.
(+48) 58 742 33 52, www.hewelianum.pl. Wehiku Czasu
exhibition: Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. From November open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
All other parts of the exhibition: Open 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. From September open 08:30 - 15:30; Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9-13/7-9z,
family ticket 23-30z. YN
CENTRUM NAUKI EXPERYMENT
An excellent addition to the entertainment options in
Gdynia particularly if you have younger children in tow. The
Experyment Science Centre has moved into a brand new
glass building and forms the showpiece of the Pomeranian
Science and Technology Park, one of the citys proudest investments. The number and choice of interactive displays
or experiments are classied into one of four categories
- Hydroworld, Operation-Human, The Tree of Life and Invisible Forces. You are encouraged to discover the world
around you and how it works by pushing, pulling, jumping
and experiencing rather than simply looking.. Children will
love it and though set inside one large room, the number of
experiments and the sheer enjoyment of it will keep them
busy for hours. Our favourite - probably trying to outrun a
lion on a treadmill.QN-4, Al. Zwycistwa 96/98, Gdynia,
tel. (+48) 58 698 21 37, www.experyment.gdynia.pl.
Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 20/12z. Y
Leisure
GDYNIA AQUARIUM (AKWARIUM GDYSKIE)
A perfect post-sunburn hideout or rainy day escape, the
Gdynia Aquarium is stued with over 1,500 animals spread
over 68 dierent exhibits, and pint-sized guests will delight
in seeing every one. New features like the dwarf crocodile
- which often cant be bothered to look anything less than
dead - keep the exhibits fresh, and children will beg to
adopt a frisky Chinese softshell turtle of their own. Exhibits cover marine life from across the globe, like Australian
spotted jellysh and Amazon-dwelling giant arapaima,
but also delve into the evolution of submersible technology through the decades. The third oor Baltic Room is
devoted to understanding the sea literally right outside
the Aquariums windows, but a history of the sea will take
a backseat to the giant 44 kg cod - the largest creature
ever caught in the Baltic - dangling over your head. English placards are spotty at best, so parents be prepared to
make up origins for the colourful tomato clownsh and
the pancake-like moonsh. A large open-air deck oers
the idea place to take in aquatic views and have a snack
if the weather permits.QO-1, Al. Jana Pawa II 1, Gdynia,
tel. (+48) 58 732 66 01, www.akwarium.gdynia.pl. Open
09:00 - 21:00. From September open 09:00 - 19:00. From
October open 10:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 24/16z. Children under 4 free
admission. Family tickets available with children up to
18 years of age 56z to 72z. U
OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS
& PARKS
KASHUBIA CULTURAL AND EDUCATION CENTER
(CENTRUM EDUKACJI I PROMOCJI REGIONU)
About half way between Kartuzy and Kocierzyna lies the
tiny settlement of Szymbark where youll discover the closest thing youll nd to a theme park in the area, For a start
theres the longest plank of wood in the world (36.83 metres and with a Guinness certi cate to boot). And as if one
Guinness Book of World Records entry wasnt enough they
also have the worlds biggest concert piano which weighs
in at a massive 2 tonnes.
Next up, theres a reconstruction of one of the bunkers
used by the local wartime resistance movement, Gryf
Pomorski where youll nd yourself in a blackened room,
the scream of dive bombers played from speakers at ear
breaking level.
For many the undisputed highlight proves to be the upside down house, a great big wooden lodge quite literally
dropped on its head. If you think it looks weird from the
outside, then join the line and step inside. The sensation of
being upside down has people swerving around in a Saturday night stupor. Theres opportunities aplenty to do things
like catch your own dinner using traditional Kashubian
methods, cook sausages with red hot pokers, or dangle
precariously from trees in their line park Qul. Szymbarskich Zakadnikw 12, Szymbark, tel. (+48) 58 684 69 33,
www.cepr.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
From October 10 open 09:00 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 17:00. Admission 15z, children under 6 years free. Y
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GDASK ZOO
One of Polands best zoos, set in the forests of Oliwa and
at a fraction of the price of visiting a western zoo. On show
are a host of wild animals with the kids favourites being the
elephants, hippos, chimpanzees and giraes. On a pleasant
day it is quite possible to spend most of the day here as the
park makes for a pleasant and quite exhausting walk and
there are additional attractions such as staggered feeding
times, a train tour of the whole park and a central food area
with some small kids rides and donkey rides for the kids. Bus
N179 runs from the Oliwa Ptla stop all the way to the front
gate.Qul. Karwieska 3, Gdask (Oliwa), tel. (+48) 58 552
17 51, www.zoo.gd.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00. From October
open 09:00 - 17:00. From November 09:00 - 15:00. Last
entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 20/10z. Y
SWIMMING
AQUAPARK
Found just o the main Gdask-Sopot-Gdynia road (nearest
train station Sopot Kamienny Potok) the complex consists
of a three-lane, 25m long pool, a recreational swimming
pool featuring cascades and a water grotto and a pool
specially designed for children featuring slides, geysers and
water cannons. A seasonal outdoor pool with slides and
climbing frames is also open during the summer.QM-2, ul.
Zamkowa Gra 3-5, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 85 23, www.
aquaparksopot.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00. 23/18z per hour.
Every additional minute 0.25z. Day tickets 55/50z. Y
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WATER FUN
EXTREME
If you want to know how to get onto one of those huge
bananas you see ying across the bay pulled by a motor
boat these are the people to contact. Boat rental and hire
of water bananas costs 30z, miscellaneous inatables cost
40z, para-sailing costs 150z (or 250z for 2 of you to go together) and water-skiing and wakeboards cost 70z (prices
are for 10 minute increments). Water scooters also available
for 120z/15mins and motor boat rental 500zl/hour.QM-4,
Sopot beach (to the right of Zhong Hua Hotel), tel. (+48)
603 12 08 88, www.extreme.sopot.pl. Closed from September 25.
WATER TAXI
Speed boat (25-65z), inatables (25-30z) - prices are for
12 mins. Water taxi will take visitors wherever they want
on the waters of Gdask Bay (prices depend on the trip,
for example a two way trip to Hel is 600z for a 7-person
boat).QM-4, middle of Sopot Pier, tel. (+48) 697 25 05
00, www.watertaxi.com.pl. Closed from September 16.
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107
Spa
Spa
It might surprise you to know that it was Sopot which was
the regions primary attraction for visitors and for the best
part of 200 years one of Europes premiere health and spa
resorts. As with much of Poland, the city was hit heavily rst
by the war, then a chronic lack of capital afterwards. But
this has all changed with lower Monte Cassino receiving
a complete facelift. Central to this multimillion euro development is the latest incarnation of the Resort House (Dom
Zdrojowy) which you will nd at the head of the pier.
THE FIRST RESORT HOUSE
Although there has been recorded settlement here since
1283, the history of spa in the city can be traced back to the
beginning of the 19th century. Attempts were made by the
Carl Christoph Wegner, a Gdask patrician, to create a resort
here right at the start of the 19th century. While his attempt
hit a wall, the birth of Sopot (Zoppot, in German) as a spa
resort was close to hand. But it took a Frenchman to make
it work, namely Jean George Haner. Having discovered
Sopot while moving through Europe as a doctor in Napoleons army, he returned here after the Russian campaign
and became a permanent resident. In 1823, he opened the
rst Bath House which oered a range of treatments and
baths. The rst Resort House was opened in 1824, changing rooms added on the beach and a small pier built. This
opening gambit was a small, single storied building built
perpendicularly to the beach. The Bath House built the year
previous oered treatments, while the new building served
to become the social HQ for the area with a name for con-
certs and parties. Haner died in 1830, but his legacy didnt.
Stewardship passed into the hands of the Bttcher family
who added another storey to the Resort House, featuring
12 modest hotel rooms, while Haner himself entered folklore, today revered as the father of modern Sopot.
THE SECOND RESORT HOUSE
The year 1870 saw a new railway line connecting Sopot
with Berlin, hence sparking a stampede for which the
town was unable to cope with. The projects of Haner and
Bttcher were simply not able to meet the new demand,
and the council stepped in to the rescue. The existing buildings were pulled down, and in their place rose the Second
Resort House.
Opened in 1881, this was altogether a larger aair, built
with half-timbered walls, lled with brick and ornamented
with wooden elements. It moved slightly from its original
location and could be found on what is now Powstacw
Warszawy Street). A magnicent vestibule took centre
stage, opening onto the restaurants and ballroom, forty hotel rooms were further added, as were spaces for reading,
music and billiards. Spacious walking galleries were added
in 1895, as were concert arenas, and a magnicent fountain
unveiled in 1903.
THE THIRD RESORT HOUSE
Not content with what they had inherited a new set of civic
authorities carried out further renovations to the resort.
New complexes of baths were added in 1903 and 1907,
and the pier extended by 160m in 1910. The Second Resort
House, barely 30 years old, was no longer suitable for the
demands placed upon it, and in 1909 it was levelled to the
ground and replaced by a third.
The new Resort House was like nothing that had come before, containing snazzy mod-cons like boilers, cold storage
rooms and a telephone switchboard. In 1919, and with Sopot now a part of the Free City of Danzig, the famous casino came into being. This was to become the focal point of
Sopot, and not too dierent from the bars and ballrooms
immortalized by F. Scott Fitzgerald. And while the Resort
House had developed throughout the 19th century so too
had the town around it. Sopot was experiencing its golden
age, and even during wartime continued to thrive as the
R&R destination of choice for combatants on leave. This
was all soon to change. The precise story as to what happened when the Red Army arrived in March 45 remains
murky. What is clear is that after the Soviets entered Sopot on March 23, 1945, the lower end of Seesstrae was
levelled. The Resort House was not reconstructed after the
war and the ruins were pulled down in 1945-1947. Only
a couple of original elements remained - a single storied
pavilion in the south-western corner the concert bowl,
terraces, fountain and the semi-circular galleries next to
the sea. Damaged glories were knocked down, replaced
instead by 60s and 70s monsters, whose horrid number
included the avant-garde (it was at the time) Alga building which housed the biggest food outlet on the Baltic.
Today youll nd U Kucharzy and a number of clubsoperating from within.
THE FOURTH RESORT HOUSE

The remains of the nasty single storey pavilions were
pulled down in 2006-2007 to make way for what you see
today. The latest incarnation includes the Sheraton Sopot
Hotel, a multiplex, conference centre and an impressive
range of bars, cafes and terraces. The development was
formally opened to the public on July 18th, 2009, and
will leave anyone who remembers Sopot of yore doing
a double take. Gone are the shabby pavilions and lego
architecture of the 70s, replaced instead with a sparkling
development that hasnt foregone the past - the rotunda
is a faithful reproduction, while the fountain is a restored
original.
THE TREATMENTS
GRAND SPA
Find a wide range of Sopot spa treatments in the luxurious
surroundings of Sopots signature Grand Hotel, overlooking the gardens and beach. Also available are a hammam,
sauna, gym and swimming pool.QM-4, ul. Powstacw
Warszawy 12/14 (Sofitel Grand Sopot Hotel), Sopot,
tel. (+48) 58 520 60 85, www.sofitel-grand-sopot.com.
Swimming pool and fitness centre open 07:00 - 22:00.
SPA open 09:00 - 22:00.
HOTEL HAFFNER SPA
Located in the plush Haner Hotel a range of spa and beauty treatments are available for guests and non-guests. Included in their oer are facials at 100z, massages at 50z as
well as Kanebo and Babor face and body treatments with
prices starting from 150z. Haner also has a pool, weight
room and sauna available.QM-3, ul. Haffnera 59, Sopot,
tel. (+48) 58 550 98 53, www.hotelhaffner.pl. Swimming
pool open 07:00 - 22:00. Treatments 08:00 - 22:00 by
prior reservation.
MERA SPA
The impressive Mera hotel oers a comprehensive range of
spa and beauty treatments along with Finnish saunas and
8 indoor and outdoor pools and Jacuzzis.QM-6, ul. Bitwy
Pod Powcami 59 (Mera SPA Hotel), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58
766 60 80, www.meraspahotel.pl. SPA zone open 10:00 22:00. Swimming pools open 07:00 - 22:00.
THE SPA AT SHERATON SOPOT
The nest spa in Sopot, possibly Poland. Featuring select
Anne Smonin treatments pleasures that await include a
dazzling swimming pool, Finnish sauna, steam room and
a comprehensive range of massage therapies as well as an
in-house hairdresser. For the full low-down check our dedicated spa feature.QM-4, ul. Powstacw Warszawy 10,
Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 767 19 00, www.sheratonsopotspa.
pl. Swimming Pool & Fitness open 07:00-22:00 (Pool
for children under 16, 11:00 - 18:00). The Spa experience (saunas, hammam, hydrotherapy pool, rasul)
open 08:30-22:00. All other therapies and treatments
open 08:00 - 22:00. Spa closed every first Monday of the
month.
109
Shopping
Shopping
24-HOUR SHOPS
KOS
A clean, modern supermarket in the centre of the old town
close to the tower of St Marys Basilica. Open throughout the
night, you can expect to nd all your necessities here such
as milk, bread and beer.QC-4, ul. Piwna 11/12, Gdask,
tel. (+48) 58 309 15 20, www.calodobowygdansk.pl.
MILA
QN-2, ul. witojaska 18, Gdynia.
NON STOP
QL-4, ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 60, Sopot, tel. (+48)
58 551 57 62.
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Poland has had a hell of a job in recent years in trying

to combat the negative eect of television pictures from
the 70s and 80s beamed around the world as the Polish
people battled with and eventually demolished Communism. Among the gray, grainy, wintery images which
portrayed the country as a miserable place permanently
in the grip of revolution and icy winters, the other image
which seems to have stuck is that of the Polish queue.
Nowhere were the failings of the Communist system
more evident and the lot of the Polish people so poor
than in those pictures of long lines of people queuing
outside shops with little or nothing inside of them. And
yet despite the regular mention of Poland being the only
EU nation not to have fallen into recession during the
current economic downturn, the image of its shopping
and those blasted queues is one that is proving particularly hard to shift.
So while the images of a grey populace living in grey
buildings under grey skies (with the odd Polar bear in the
background) have been addressed with building programs
and marketing campaigns showing Poland in colour, we
thought wed highlight the shopping options now available as well as give you some local gift ideas and where
you can pick them up.
The shopping options in the Tri-city have changed beyond recognition since the days in the late 1990s that
Gdansk In Your Pocket rst rode into town. International
branded stores had only just appeared and while there
was a western style mall in Gdynia (a much expanded and
remodelled Kilf is still there), Poles would more often visit
to view than to buy - a reection of the general lack of

disposable income available at the time and the novelty
value of huge shopping malls or superstores like IKEA or
Carrefour.
That was then though. The early years of the 21st century
saw huge development in the retail sector with state of the
art malls appearing all along the coast and most noticeably
at pretty much every major exit on the Tri-city ring road
(Obwodnica). Now it is easier to count the international
brand names who are not present than those that are.
Where once we would list lots of individual shops providing particular goods and services things have now reached
the stage where most places can be found under one roof.
So if your ambition is to shop until you drop while you are
here we suggest the rst place you look is at the list of hypermarkets and malls listed in our shopping section. While
this is not a list of all, it is a selection of what we view as the
best ones from each of the 3 cities. With Madison the most
central in Gdansk old town, Klif the most upmarket in the
whole city and Galeria Baltycka the most convenient and
biggest in the 3 cities you can sate most shopping desires
there.
A tour around the Obwodnica (Tri-city Ring Road) will
bring in the huge discount park which is Fashion House
Outlet Centre as well as the huge hypermarkets of Carrefour, Auchan and Real. While you can nd more information on them and how to get to them in our shopping
section we have put together a list of gift and souvenir
suggestions which might take a little more searching in
order to nd.
Excellent selection
of French cheeses
and wines
Gdynia, Wielkopolska 31
tel. +48 668 938 249
cyrano.sklep@gmail.com
www.cyrano-roxane.pl
ALCOHOL
AMBER & JEWELLERY
There are a number of local drinks which will make for

excellent presents and souvenirs none more so than the
Gdansk signature drink - Goldwasser. Distilled in the city
since the 17th century it is a sweet juniper based drink
containing pieces of gold leaf making for a visually impressive gift. The original recipe was taken to Germany at the
end of WWII and this Original Der Lachs version can still
be bought in the Pod Lososiem restaurant while a German resident of the city has created excellent boxed sets
of Goldwasser which can be bought through his restaurant
on the waterfront.
Baltic Gold, as it is often referred to, has been gathered and

worked in the Gdansk area for over 6,000 years and is one of
the major contributors to the citys wealth over the centuries.
The sight of locals (both amateur and professional) combing
the beaches looking for pieces which have been washed up,
particularly after a heavy storm, is still common. There are
countless workshops in the area which produce not just wonderful jewellery but all sorts of ornaments and souvenirs from
this ancient stone. The heart of the Gdansk amber market is
the picturesque Mariacka Street in the shadow of St. Marys
Basilica in Gdansk which is lined with numerous stores and
workshops. Keep an eye for the International Amber Associations certicate that guarantees the sellerhas been checked
and deemed trustworthy. Another option is to take a tour of
an amber workshop where you will see both how the stone
is worked to turn it into the beautiful pieces you see mounted
in nished jewellery and also learn how to spot a genuine
and fake piece of amber. The S&A company oer tours of their
workshop in Gdynia and you should contact them in advance
to organise a place (+ 48 695 990 073, tour@s-a.pl).
To nd out more about amber, its history in the city and
what to look out for, take a look at our feature online at
gdansk.inyourpocket.com.
Poland is also home to some of the worlds best vodkas and

while Chopin and Belvedere are regarded as the best Polish
brands it is also worth keeping an eye for something called
Zubrowka, a vodka avoured with a type of grass from the
primeval Bialowieza Forest in eastern Poland. Remarkably
cheap in comparison to the other drinks mentioned here,
it is usually drunk with apple juice in what is known locally
as a tatanka.
Finally you will also nd in selected places bottles of Nalewka which are vodka or spirit based alcohols which have
been mixed with various fruits and left to age. They are often tastier and easier to drink than simple vodka and often
come in attractive bottles which make for an attractive gift.
GOLDWASSER RESTAURANT
88 78, www.goldwasser.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
POD OSOSIEM RESTAURANT
QC-4, ul. Szeroka 52-54, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 76 52,
www.podlososiem.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.
SKLEP CYRANO WINA I SERY
Fine wines from the south of France, and over 20 types
of gourmet cheese including goat and sheep.Qul. Wielkopolska 31, Gdynia (Orowo), tel. (+48) 668 93 82 49,
www.cyrano-roxane.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00
- 19:00. Closed Sun.
AMBER GALLERIES
The places listed below are partners in the Amber Passport
programme.
GALERIA BURSZTYNU PRESTIGE
Also at (B-4) ul. Piwna 1/2, Gdask.QC-4, ul. Mariacka 45,
Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 305 55 50, www.galeriaprestige.pl.
Open 10:00 - 18:00.
GALERIA WYDRA
Amber and miscellaneous jewellery.QC-4, ul. Mariacka
49, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 77 79. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
PRACOWNIA I GALERIA STYL
43 80, www.amberstyl.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
111
Shopping
Shopping
FOOD & SWEETS
BOOKS, MUSIC & FILMS
FASHION & ACCESSORIES
Poles love their food and in particular their pickles and their
sweets. A particular regional favourite is gingerbread which
famously is produced in Torun by the Kopernik company.
Gdansk and Poland have a tumultuous history and the

city is much changed to the way it looked 100 years ago.
A combination of huge WWII bombing, post-war Socialist planning and social and cultural change have changed
the look completely of the people and the city. There are
two series of photo album style books which capture this
wonderfully with pictures of before, during and after the
events of WWII.
EASTEND
A huge range of famous brand shoes available under one
roof just o the Tri-city ring road one junction before the
airport turning on the Gdynia side.Qul. Galaktyczna 37,
Gdask (Osowa), tel. (+48) 660 00 02 22, www.sklep.
eastend.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
KOPERNIK SWEETS
Sweets are something that Poles love and some of the best
examples of Polish sweets can be found in the sweets and
gingerbread that come from Toru. Toru gingerbread is famous in Poland and supposedly the original and best. Youll
nd a small exhibition dedicated to Nicolaus Copernicus
(Kopernik in Polish) in this sweet emporium in the cellar
of Gdansks oldest house. A range of gingerbreads, sweets
and gift sets make this a recommended spot for those with
a sweet tooth who are looking for a regional gift.QC-4, ul.
Mariacka 1 (Kamienica Gotyk), Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301
85 67, www.gotykhouse.eu. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
POLISH NAME DAYS

In Poland, name days (imieniny) are widely celebrated
and have traditionally been given a greater importance
than birthday celebrations, particularly as one gets on
in years. Printed in every local calendar, these name
days represent the feast days of Catholic saints. Every
day of the year is assigned two saints one male, one
female and chances are if you share a name with
a saint (as almost all Poles do), you too have a name
day. Some names are even repeated more than once
in a calendar year, in which case you celebrate the rst
name day after your birthday.
Name Day celebrations in Poland are social events, traditionally involving the gathering of friends and family
at the celebrants home or a bar. Diering slightly from
western birthday celebrations in which the celebrant is
often seen as a guest of honour and might expect to be
bought drinks all night, in name day gatherings the celebrant traditionally plays the role of host, buying drinks
for friends and ensuring that guests are taken care of. In
return, guests should bring small gifts (typically chocolate, owers or vodka) as you would on someones birthday. Traditionally the Polish birthday song Sto Lat (A
Hundred Years) is sung and Name Days are so important
to Polish culture that they are prominently displayed in
most of the countrys trams and buses.
The rst entitled Byl Sobie Gdansk (Gdansk was itself ) is

a series of books which were published by current Prime
Minister Donald Tusk (a Gdanskian and Kashubian) in the
years before he became a full-time politician. Youll recognise many of the old Gdansk, Wrzeszcz and Sopot streets
and see how once people lived. Contrasting dramatically
is a series published by photographer Maciej Kosycarz entitled Extraordinary Ordinary Photographs which presents
the work of both himself and his father during the period
1945-2007 and which demonstrate the destruction of the
city in 1945 and both the painstaking rebuilding and life in
the Peoples Republic in the years after. It is now available
with English language captions.
Gdansk is also the former home of Nobel prize winning author Gunter Grass. His stories are often set against the backdrop of inter-war Danzig and none capture the time better
than The Tin Drum, the work for which he was awarded the
Literature prize. While these books will generally be available in major Tri-city bookshops, youll have to go online to
pick up another recommended book - Sean Lester, Poland
and the Nazi takeover of Danzig - which recounts the story
of the Irishman and League of Nations High Commissioner
Sean Lester who governed here between 1934 and 1937.
EMPIK
Also at ul. Koobrzeska 41c (Alfa Centrum, Przymorze), ul.
Grunwaldzka 141 (Galeria Batycka, F-4), ul. Zota Karczma
26 (Park Handlowy Matarnia); in Gdynia, ul. witojaska 68
(N-2); in Sopot, ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 63 (M-4).QB2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, Gdask, tel. (+48) 22 451 04 66,
www.empik.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.
TAX FREE SHOPPING

Non-EU residents are entitled to claim
a VAT refund when the purchased
goods are exported in an unused
condition outside the EU in personal
luggage. Shop wherever you see the
Global Blue logo. The minimum total purchase value with VAT per Tax
Free Form is 200pln. Keep the Tax Free Form, have it
stamped when leaving the nal point of departure
from the EU and reclaim your money. For full details
check www.globalblue.com.
ETER BOUTIQUE
Tucked away towards the rear of Sopots Crooked
House is this little boutique selling the work of a local
designer. While this writer is no fashionista, our shopping expert thinks that this is a highly recommendable
place based on what she describes as original designs
at affordable prices. Creating a style somewhere between elegant, classic and avant-garde, this is definitely
worth a look for those interested in local fashion.QM4, ul. Haffnera 6 (Crooked House), Sopot, tel. (+48)
502 69 29 96. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00,
Sun 12:00 - 15:00.
GALERIA SZTUKI KASZUBSKIEJ
(KASHUBIAN ART GALLERY)
A fantastic little place if
you are looking for local
handicrafts to take home
as gifts. The business
is run by a mother and
daughter and on certain
days youll even nd a
granddaughter present.
The daughter is a designer while the mother makes all the
clothes by hand. Lots of wonderful gifts all based on the local Kashubian regions traditions.QC-4, ul. w. Ducha 48,
Gdask, tel. (+48) 503 00 59 78, www.gskart.pl. Open
11:00 -18:00. Closed Sun. From September open 11:00
-18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
SALONIK POD SKRZYDLATYM ANIOEM
A small family business with an outlet on ul.Mariacka. The
mother and daughter team oer some genuinely original
and local gifts. On one hand there are hand sewn and
embroidered clothes made from Polish linen and they will
make to measure for you. Then there is a range of jewellery using silver, amber and precious stones which are designed and made by the couple. Our favourites though are
the handmade sculptures using ceramic, wood and amber.
If, like us, you dont really see yourself (or the intended recipient of the gift) wearing amber, this is one way to get a
typically Gdansk gift that wont end up collecting dust in a
drawer.QC-4, ul. Mariacka 25/26, Gdask, tel. (+48) 501
06 99 88, www.aniolilen.hekko.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00.
From October open 11:00 - 18:00.
Full contents online:

www.gdansk.findlocalgift.com
5^^S3aX]ZUa^\&
2[^cWX]VUa^\%
1^^ZbUa^\ $
The most
original gifts,
all in one place!
113
Shopping
GIFTS & SOUVENIRS
Getting a gift always feels like it should be a ve-minute
job but it rarely turns out like that. One of the problems of
being abroad is not knowing what is typical of the place
you are visiting (possibly Belgium apart - lace, chocolate,
fries) and what would make a gift that looks like its purchase has been a considered one but is also something
that isnt stued into the back of a drawer the moment
you leave. What we have tried to do here is highlight not
just the better of the traditional souvenir shops but also
try to bring your attention to local shops and companies
who sell local products or products typically associated
with the area.
First of all you are in the heart of the Kashubian region here,
home to the Kashubian people one of the largest surviving ethnic minorities in Europe. Distinct from Poles in both
language and culture the Kashubians are an integral part
of modern Poland but also have a clear identity visible in
their peculiar language, which sounds like a mix of Polish
and German, and in their crafts. Kashubians particularly
pride themselves on their embroidery which uses just ve
colours: green, red, yellow, black and blue, the latter of
which comes in three distinct shades. Green represents
the forests, red the re and bloodshed in defence of the
homeland, yellow the sun, black the earth and blue the sky,
lakes and sea. Designs are simple, cheerful and are used on
everything from clothes to ceramics. Other things to look
out for are their wood carvings and basket woven items.
There is nothing which says Gdansk and Poland more than
the iconic Solidarno (Solidarity) logo which has come to
signify the movement of people across Communist Europe who together brought the system and the Berlin Wall
crashing down. Those interested in the movement and the
history will nd a range of books dedicated to the subject
as well as postcards, photo albums, souvenirs and even recreations of communist era items such as ration books are
now available. Keep an eye out for a particular favourite of
ours which is The Polish Revolution: Solidarity by Timothy
Garton Ash, which tells the story from inside the shipyards
during the momentous days of 1980.
For those really into their football you might think about
picking up a Poland national side shirt. Youll also nd a
stand in Galeria Batycka dedicated to local club Lechia
Gdask.
Other specialties of the region include Kashubian pottery,
sweets and particularly gingerbread from the city of Toru
to the south and cut glass. Finally Polish food is becoming
more popular and though there may be restrictions as to
what you take home with you it is worth looking into some
of the local produce or all sorts of specially prepared and
packaged goods from companies like Krakowski Kredens.
One option is to take a look at local company Findlocalgift
who have sourced lots of interesting locally produced or
locally themed gifts and put them together online. Theyll
parcel up your gift and deliver it to your hotel for free or
courier it to your home for a charge.
Alternatively here are some of the shops where you can
buy some of the items mentioned above.
Shopping
ATELIER MAGDA BENEDA
A wonderful little gallery run by a woman (pani Magda)
who is both clearly talented and professional. Everything
on show here would make a wonderful gift from Gdansk
including the paintings on the wall and the beautiful
shaped and coloured tableware which comes in a range
of attractive designs with a Tri-city theme. Finding a
nice Gdansk gift has not always been easy and finding a
nicely presented one even harder. But here you get the
gifts in beautiful, locally produced packaging which, in
our opinion, makes them that bit more attractive. Cross
over the river to find the gallery just along the street
from the Brovarnia restaurant.QD-4, ul. Szafarnia 11,
Gdask, tel. (+48) 601 67 19 59, www.magdabeneda.
pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00.
CERAMIKA BOLESAWIECKA
Hand-crafted and hand-painted ceramics originating in the
south-west of Poland with many of the patterns forming an
important part of the shared Silesian culture of Germans
and Poles. QD-5, ul. Stagiewna 18, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58
303 61 14, www.ceramicboleslawiec.com.pl. Open 10:00
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. From September open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 -16:00. Closed Sun.
GDASK SOUVENIR CENTRE
A souvenir gallery in the centre of the old town with a
pretty comprehensive collection of Gdansk gifts including Polish glass, Poland sports memorabilia, postcards and
naturally, amber jewellery.QC-4, ul. Duga 29, Gdask, tel.
(+48) 58 305 11 50. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Y
PRODUKTY BENEDYKTYSKIE
This shop, set up by the Benedictine monks of Tyniec Abbey, sells such an astounding variety of products - cheese,
jam, wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups, meats - it raises
two eyebrows over how they nd the time..QB-4, ul.
Duga 5 (entrance from ul. Garbary), Gdask, tel. (+48)
58 305 69 03, www.benedicite.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
ROCK SHOP
OK. This is hardly a local gift but nothing in the city will
show a total stranger anywhere else in the world that you
(or a relative) has been to Gdansk than a Hard Rock Cafe
t-shirt. Its probably fair to say that HRC will do as much to
get the name of the city out there globally as anything the
local promotions department can do. Find a range of Hard
Rock Cafe clothing and souvenirs in the store adjacent to
the restaurant on ul. Dlugi Targ. The classic white t-shirt will
cost you 100z.QC-5, ul. Dugi Targ 35-38, Gdask, tel.
(+48) 58 535 77 04, www.hardrock.com/cafes/gdansk.
Open 10:00 - 24:00.
SZAFA GDASKA
A wide selection of old Danzig photos, books, post cards,
images, graphics, albums and assorted handmade curios.
QB-4, ul. Garbary 14/1, Gdask, tel. (+48) 510 05 87 10,
www.szafagdanska.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Y
GDASK SOUVENIRS CENTER

ART GLASS
CRYSTAL
AMBER SILVER
SOUVENIRS
ALL MADE IN POLAND
29 Duga St., tel. 58 305 11 50

MARKETS
Once upon a time, these were the places where the bulk
of shopping was done by locals. Rows and rows of kiosks
would oer you anything they could get their hands on
to sell and particularly in the post-1989 years these places
positively thrived. The advent of the western style shopping
mall and the huge out-of-town hypermarkets have turned
these market places into little more than ea markets and
the number of people using them has dropped dramatically. Still many people use them both out of habit and
because prices tend to be cheaper so they can present an
interesting look into what life used to be like. While products such as clothes and perfumes can now be bought in
better quality elsewhere there are still bargains to be had
and fruit and veg still tends to be fresher and cheaper here.
HALA TARGOWA
GDANSK
One of the strangest buildings in the city, the covered
market wouldnt look out of
place posing as a provincial
19th-century train station in
the south of France. Built in 1896 in a Neo-Gothic style, the
market has recently been completely renovated at a cost of
20zl million, an act that led to the discovery of the foundations of one of the citys oldest churches, the 12th century
Church of St Nicolas, underneath the main market building.
Amid the cheap clothing stalls and rows of meat and dairy
produce, the churchs foundations have been left as they
were found, providing a small, living archaeology museum
in the basement along with a display of photographs, objects found during the excavations and drawings of how
the church might have looked.QC-3, Pl. Dominikaski 1,
Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 346 31 33, www.halatargowa.pl.
Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
HALA TARGOWA GDYNIA
One of the few places left in the Tricity where you can get
that authentic old time shopping experience. While you
wont get the rough and tumble associated with Warsaws
famous Russian Market, what you will nd is a large Hala
Targowa (Trading Hall) containing rows of independent
traders oering everything from clothing to electronic
equipment. Very popular with the visiting Swedish shoppers looking to pick up a bargain, the market is a glimpse
into post-communist Poland before the arrival of the western style Hypermarket and Shopping Malls now so familiar in Poland. Find it close to Gdynia Main Railway station.
QN-1, ul. Wjta Radtkiego 36-40, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 621
64 63. Open 08:30 - 17:00, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
SOPOCKI RYNEK
A local market which opens on Tuesdays and Fridays
for a mix of local farm produce, furniture and clothing.
QL-5, ul. Polna 8-12, Sopot, tel. (+48) 609 06 09 69,
www.sopockirynek.pl.
115
Shopping
Shopping
SHOPPING MALLS
FASHION HOUSE
A variation on the typical out of town malls. What youll
nd here, set in what looks like a seaside shing village complete with lighthouse, is big name brands at
knockdown prices. Stores include Adidas, Nike, Reebok,
Mexx, Puma, Levis, Big Star, Quicksilver, Timberland, Reserved, Atlantic and Converse. The centre also includes
cafes and an indoor play area for the kids. Located on
the Tri-city ring road just outside Gdask, the centre
can be reached easily by car or by bus 174 from Gdask
main railway station. A taxi will cost about 30z oneway.Qul. Przywidzka 8, Gdask (Szadki), tel. (+48)
58 320 99 44, www.fashionhouse.com. Open 10:00
- 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
KLIF
Klif can be described as the Tri-citys original shopping mall and continues to oer a choice of some of
the highest quality brands in Poland. Covering over
30,000m2 and with car parking for 1,200 cars Klif features over 150 shops with the agship stores being
Marks & Spencer, H&M, while youll also nd Tommy
Hilger, Escada Sport, Liu Jo, Karen Millen, La Mania,
Patrizia Pepe, Pollini, Max Mara, Benetton, Deni Cler Milano, Emanuel Berg, Mothercare and Sephora. Among
the usual mix of service outliets youll also Como, a far
better restaurant than you would normally expect in a
shopping mall. Right by Gdynia Orowo train station,
you can take bus S or trolleybus 21 and 31 from Sopot.
From Gdynia you can get there with bus S, or trolleybus
21, 26 and 31. From Gdansk city centre Neptun taxis
charge approximately 20 Euros one-way.QN-6, Al.
Zwycistwa 256, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 664 93 45,
www.klif.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
LOCAL GIFTS
VODKA
Poland has long been associated with quality vodka,
and as such it makes a perfect last-minute gift to anyone but children and alcoholics. Most foreigners will
opt for a bottle of ubrowka, a unique Polish concoction hailing from the eastern plains. Each bottle contains a blade of grass, allegedly fertilised with bison
urine, and the drink is ideally served chilled and with
a dash of apple juice. The local rewater, Goldwasser,
is equally recommended. A thick, sweetish vodka containing ultra-thin akes of gold, Goldwasser has been
distilled in Gdask for several hundred years and the
one-time Goldwasser distillery, Pod ososiem, is still
alive and functioning as one of the most exclusive restaurants in the area. Of note, the Goldwasser restaurant
sells special gift sets containing two souvenir glasses
and a bottle of the vodka.
SOLIDARITY
With Gdask recently celebrating the anniversary of the
landmark Solidarity strikes you can nd many stalls and
gift shops selling souvenir t-shirts, mugs and the like.
Alternatively check out the kiosk at the famous #2 Gate
or the Roads to Freedom exhibition (see Sightseeing).
CENTRUM RIVIERA
Gdynia hits back in the battle of the giant shopping
malls with the Centrum Riviera weighing in with 70,000
m of shopping space providing home for 270 outlets
including Real, Zara, Bershka, Reserved, Cropp, H&M,
Rossmann, Sephora, Douglas and Mango and a playground for kids Fun Park. Theres parking for 1,750 vehicles while the Helios cinema has the biggest theatre
in the city at close to 3,000m and can hold up to 1,300
people. Those who notice that theres not a single big
name fast food outlet on the main street will instead
be relieved to nd they are all present in the food court
here.QN-2/3, ul. Kazimierza Grskiego 2, Gdynia, tel.
(+48) 58 779 07 10, www.centrumriviera.pl. Open
10:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
GALERIA BATYCKA
The tri-citys biggest and most popular shopping gallery can be found in the Gdask district of Wrzeszcz at
the junction of the main Tri-city road (al. Grunwaldzka)
and the main road to the airport (ul. Slowackiego). Youll
nd over 200 stores, boutiques, cafes and restaurants
set in a state of the art building with headline stores
including a three-level H&M, Peek & Cloppenberg, River
Island, Tommy Hilger and Zara. Carrefour provide the
supermarket while GB has the best food court in the
city. Theres also on-site parking for 1,100 cars. The mall
is opposite Gdansk-Wrzeszcz train station and can also
be reached by a host of buses and trams from Gdansk
city centre Neptun City Plus taxis charge approximately
30zl one-way.QF-4, Al. Grunwaldzka 141, Gdask,
tel. (+48) 58 521 85 51, www.galeriabaltycka.pl.
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
MADISON PARK
The Madison Shopping Gallery is a unique shopping
and leisure centre found in the heart of Gdansk. Perfectly located, right on the edge of the Old Town, the
mall presents a medley of unmissable distractions and
attractions for the passing tourist. Shoppers have a
choice of over one hundred shops and service outlets,
restaurants, cafes and ice-cream parlours as well as currency exchange and underground parking.
Madison Shopping Gallery, however, is more than just a
shopping centre, its now part of the folklore of Gdansk
- scattered around visitors can discover countless famous people and symbols now rendered in sculptures
which evoke the history and mystique of old Gdansk.
QB-2, ul. Rajska 10, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 766 75 30,
www.madison.gda.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00
- 20:00.
BOOKS
Historian, journalist, local resident and since October
2007 Prime Minister Donald Tusk, has written a number
of books about the Tri-City. Although only available in
Polish and German the books are a great gift to anyone
with a eeting fascination in the region. With titles focussing on Gdask, Sopot and Wrzeszcz they are a marvellous black and white photo essay documenting life
and architecture in the Tri-City before, during and in the
immediate aftermath of WWII. The pick of the bunch
has to be the By Sobie Gdask (There used to be a
Gdask) series. Retailing at around 50z you can pick up
copies from bookstores, souvenir shops and branches
of EMPiK. Contrasting dramatically but just as fascinating for Gdansksian and non-Gdanskians alike is a book
published by local photographer Maciej Kosycarz. The
book entitled Niezwyke zwyke zdjecia (Unusual Ordinary Photos) is a collection of photos taken by his father and then he during the period 1945 2007. The
Kosycarzs arrived in the city like much of the current
population at the end of the war. They were part of the
generation that re-built and re-settled the city after the
destruction of 39-45 and Kosycarz senior captured the
years of communist rule superbly through his picture of
the ordinary moments in life. Our favourite is the one of
Castro visiting the city to huge acclaim. For residents of
the city during this time these pictures must bring back
memories but even for non-Poles they still provide a
fascinating insight to everyday life not only in Gdansk
but in the whole of the Eastern Bloc.
117
Directory
24-HOUR PHARMACIES
APTECUS 4QA-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 2 (Gdask
Gwny Train Station), Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 778 92 13.
APTEKA DYURNAQPl. Kaszubski 8, Gdynia,
tel. (+48) 58 620 58 58.
APTEKA DYURNAQL-4, ul. Kociuszki 7, Sopot,
tel. (+48) 58 551 32 89, www.aptekadyzurna.pl.
CONSULATES & EMBASSIES

FINLANDQN-1, ul. Morska 59, Gdynia,
tel. (+48) 58 621 68 52.
GERMANYQH-3, Al. Zwycistwa 23, Gdask,
tel. (+48) 58 340 65 00, www.danzig.diplo.de.
Hotels
UKQF-3, ul. Grunwaldzka 102, Gdask,
tel. (+48) 58 341 43 65, ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk/en.
P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted
GENEALOGY
NATIONAL ARCHIVEQB-1, ul. Waowa 5, Gdask,
tel. (+48) 58 301 74 63, www.gdansk.ap.gov.pl. Open
07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
TRIP2GDANSKQtel. (+48) 696 48 73 12,
www.trip2gdansk.pl.
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
SOPOT SCHOOL OF POLISHQL-4, Al.
Niepodlegoci 763, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 32 84,
www.ssp.edu.pl.
NETHERLANDSQD-5, ul. Chmielna 101/102, Gdask,

tel. (+48) 58 346 98 78, polen.nlambassade.org.
THE CENTRE FOR POLISH STUDIESQL-2, ul.

Kraszewskiego 31/1 , Sopot, tel. (+48) 22 826 19 04,
www.learnpolish.edu.pl/sopot.
NORWAYQul. lska 21, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 661 80

04, www.amb-norwegia.pl.
PRIVATE CLINICS
RUSSIAQF-4, ul. Batorego 15, Gdansk,

tel. (+48) 58 341 10 88, www.gdansk.rusemb.pl.
SWEDENQD-5, ul. Chmielna 101/102, Gdask,
tel. (+48) 58 300 20 00, www.swedenabroad.com.
LUX-MEDQH-3, Al. Zwycistwa 49, Gdask,

tel. (+48) 22 33 22 888, www.luxmed.pl.
MEDICOVERQul. Beniowskiego 23, Gdask (Oliwa),
tel. (+48) 500 90 05 00, www.medicover.pl.
THE SWISSMED HOSPITALQG-5, ul. Wileska
44, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 524 15 00, www.swissmed.
com.pl.
RELIGIOUS SERVICES
GOSPEL CHURCHQF-4, Al. Grunwaldzka 82
(Manhattan Shopping Mall), Gdask,
www.gospelchurchgdansk.pl.
Whats going on
MOSQUEQul. Abrahama 17a, Gdask (Oliwa),

tel. (+48) 505 17 35 93.
in Poland?
NEW SYNAGOGUEQF-4, ul. Partyzantw 7, Gdask,

tel. (+48) 58 344 06 02.
Get a round-up of the

major Polish news, business,
entertainment and sports
in English each week by
subscribing free to our PDF.
Visit us at
www.newpolandexpress.pl
SYMBOL KEY
PROTESTANT PRAYER HOUSEQC-3, ul. Za Murami

2-10, Gdask (Dom Harcerza), tel. (+48) 605 28 24 17,
www.gdansk.reformacja.pl.
TRANSLATORS
& INTERPRETERS
ART OF TRANSLATIONQL-5, ul. Kociuszki 61,
Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 01 32, www.artoftranslation.pl.
GERLANGQN-1, ul. 10 lutego 11 (Batory), Gdynia,
tel. (+48) 501 75 41 98, www.tlumaczenia.gerlang.pl.
T Child-friendly
H Conference facilities
F Fitness centre
U Facilities for the disabled
K Restaurant
L Guarded parking on site
D Sauna
w Wellness
6 Animal friendly
X Smoking rooms available
C Swimming pool Y Tourist card
CREAM OF THE CROP

HILTON HOTEL
QA-4, ul. Targ Rybny 1, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 778 71
00, www.hiltongdansk.pl. 150 rooms (145 singles,
145 doubles, 4 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite).
PTH6UFKDCw hhhhh
IBB DWR OLIWSKI CITY HOTEL & SPA
Qul. Bytowska 4, Gdask (Oliwa), tel. (+48) 58 554 70
00, www.dworoliwski.pl. 70 rooms (67 singles, 66 doubles, 1 suite, 2 apartments). PTYH6UFK
DCw hhhhh
PODEWILS
QD-4, ul. Szafarnia 2, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 300 95 60,
www.podewils.pl. 10 rooms (10 singles, 10 doubles).
PTH6KD hhhhh
RADISSON BLU
QC-5, ul. Dugi Targ 19/Powronicza, Gdask, tel. (+48)
58 325 44 44, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-gdansk.
134 rooms (18 singles, 108 doubles, 8 apartments).
PTYH6UFLKDw hhhhh
REZYDENT
QL-4, Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58
555 58 00, www.hotelrezydent.com.pl. 64 rooms
(12 singles, 49 doubles, 2 suites, 1 apartment).
PTH6UFKD hhhhh
SHERATON SOPOT HOTEL, CONFERENCE
CENTER & SPA
QM-4, ul. Powstacow Warszawy 10, Sopot, tel. (+48)
58 767 10 00, www.sheraton.pl/sopot. 189 rooms (182
singles, 182 doubles, 7 apartments). PTH6U
FLKDXCw hhhhh
SOFITEL GRAND SOPOT
QM-4, ul. Powstacw Warszawy 12/14, Sopot, tel.
(+48) 58 520 60 22, www.sofitel-grand-sopot.com. 127
rooms (95 singles, 95 doubles, 30 suites, 2 apartments).
PTH6UFLKDCw hhhhh
WE INVITE YOU
TO THE HANZA HOTEL,
LOCATED OVERLOOKING THE
MOTLAWA RIVER
IN THE VERY HEART OF
GDANSK NEXT TO THE
LANDMARK CRANE
FOR RESERVATIONS
CALL US ON + 48 603 612 927
HOTEL HANZA, UL. TOKARSKA 6, GDANSK
TEL. +48 58 305 34 27, FAX +48 58 305 33 86
E-MAIL: HOTEL@HOTELHANZA.PL
WWW.HOTELHANZA.PL
WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/HOTELHANZA
119
Hotels
Hotels
BAYJONN HOTEL
QM-4, ul. Powstacw Warszawy 7, Sopot, tel. (+48)
730 71 71 71, www.bayjonnhotel.pl. 22 rooms (3 singles,
17 doubles, 2 suites). PTHUFKD hhh
BEST WESTERN HOTEL BONUM
QC-2, ul. Sieroca 3, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 304 78 10,
www.hotelbonum.pl. 32 rooms (7 singles, 21 doubles, 2
triples, 2 apartments). TYH6UK hhh
BEST WESTERN PLUS BUSINESS FALTOM HOTEL
GDYNIA
Qul. Morska 362, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 776 55 00, www.
faltombusiness.pl. 47 rooms (45 singles, 39 doubles, 2
suites). THUFKDw hhh
BLICK
QN-1, ul. Jana z Kolna 6, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 783 03
00, www.hotelblick.pl. 47 rooms (8 singles, 35 doubles,
4 apartments). HUFKw hhh
FAHRENHEIT
QD-3, ul. Grodzka 19, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 324 74 00,
www.fahrenheit.pl. 23 rooms (23 singles, 23 doubles, 3
triples). PHUK hhhh
GDASK
QD-4, ul. Szafarnia 9, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 300 17
17, www.hotelgdansk.pl. 96 rooms (10 singles, 53
doubles, 22 suites, 6 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite).
PTYH6UKDw hhhh
GDYNIA
QO-1, ul. Armii Krajowej 22, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 666
30 40, www.accorhotels.com. 294 rooms (62 singles, 223
doubles, 7 suites, 2 apartments). TH6ULK
DC hhh
The best boutique hotel in Gdansk
XVIIIth century Granary, XXIst century Yachting part

#VTJOFTTDFOUFStNPEFSODPOGFSFODFSPPNTt:BDIUNBSJOB
&YDMVTJWF.FE41"JOVOJRVFMPDBUJPOt.JOJCSFXFSZ#SPWBSOJB(EBTL
GOLDEN TULIP GDANSK RESIDENCE

QF-1, ul. Piastowska 160, Gdask, tel. (+48) 724 01 22
27, www.goldentulipgdanskresidence.com. 195 rooms
(195 apartments). THKDCw
GRAND CRU
QD-3, ul. Rycerska 11-12, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 772 73
00, www.hotelgrandcru.pl. 49 rooms (48 singles, 48
doubles, 1 suite). PTH6UFKD hhhh
w w w . h o t e l g d a n s k . p l
Hotel Gdask, Szafarnia Street 9 by the yacht marina
tel. +48 58 300 17 17, rezerwacja@hotelgdansk.pl
HAFFNER
QM-3, ul. Haffnera 59, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 99 99, www.
hotelhaffner.pl. 106 rooms (100 singles, 92 doubles, 6 apartments). PTYHUFLKDCw hhhh
HANZA
QD-4, ul. Tokarska 6, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 305 34 27,
www.hotelhanza.pl. 60 rooms (17 singles, 36 doubles,
5 suites, 2 Presidential Suites). PTH6UFK
Dw hhhh
HOLLAND HOUSE RESIDENCE
QC-5, ul. Dugi Targ 33/34, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 325
77 77, www.hollandhouse.pl. 26 rooms (26 singles, 26
doubles, 26 triples, 1 quad). TYHUK
HOTEL SPA FALTOM
Qul. Grunwaldzka 7, Rumia, tel. (+48) 58 785 81 00,
www.hotelfaltom.pl. 113 rooms (111 singles, 111
doubles, 2 apartments). PTH6UKDCw
hhhh
HOTTON
Qul. w. Piotra 8, Gdynia (rdmiecie), tel. (+48) 58 760
58 00, www.hotton.pl. 62 rooms (4 singles, 52 doubles, 3
suites, 3 apartments). THUKD hhh
KRLEWSKI
QD-3, ul. Oowianka 1, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 326 11 11,
www.hotelkrolewski.pl. 30 rooms (3 singles, 17 doubles,
6 triples, 4 apartments). TH6UK hhh
KURACYJNY
QO-6, Al. Zwycistwa 255, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 667
78 23, www.hotelkuracyjny.pl. 27 rooms (6 singles, 20
doubles, 1 apartment). TH6UKDw hhh
MERA SPA HOTEL
QM-6, ul. Bitwy Pod Powcami 59, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 766
60 00, www.meraspahotel.pl. 145 rooms (124 singles,
140 doubles, 5 apartments). PTH6ULK
DCw hhhh
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ADMIRA
QC-3, ul. Tobiasza 9, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 320 03 20,
www.admiralhotelgdansk.pl. 44 rooms (43 singles, 43
doubles, 1 suite). PTHUKD hhhh
HAMPTON BY HILTON GDANSK AIRPORT

Qul. Sowackiego 220, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 882 10 00,
www.hampton.com. 116 rooms (116 singles, 116 doubles). PTHUFK hhh
)HHOWKHDWPRVSKHUHRIWKHWKLUWLHV
DQGVSHQG\RXUIUHHWLPHE\WKHVHD
UPMARKET
MERCURE GDASK STARE MIASTO

QC-2, ul. Heweliusza 22, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 321 00 00,
www.mercure.com. 281 rooms (78 singles, 197 doubles,
6 apartments). PTYH6UFLK hhhh
MOLO RESIDENCE
QM-4, ul. Puaskiego 6A, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 355 11
00, www.molohotel.pl. 9 rooms (9 singles, 7 doubles, 2
triples). PT
NADMORSKI
QO-3, ul. Ejsmonda 2, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 667 77 77,
www.nadmorski.pl. 90 rooms (82 singles, 82 doubles, 4
triples, 4 apartments). PTH6UFLKDw
hhhh
121
Hotels
Hotels
MID-RANGE
AMBER
QI-4, ul. Taborowa 1, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 718 71 87,
www.amber-hotel.pl. 46 rooms (10 singles, 31 doubles,
4 triples, 1 suite). PTHULK hhh
ANTARES
Qul. Komandorska 59, Gdynia (Grabwek), tel. (+48) 58
623 36 39, www.hotelantares.pl. 55 rooms (15 singles,
40 doubles, 3 triples). THUFK hh
ARTUS
QC-4, ul. Piwna 36/39, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 320 96 00,
www.artushotel.com.pl. 50 rooms (48 singles, 36 doubles, 2 apartments). THUKDw hhh
BEST WESTERN VILLA AQUA HOTEL
QM-2, ul. Zamkowa Gra 35, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 522 44
00, www.villaaqua.pl. 53 rooms (53 singles, 49 doubles).
TYH6UK hh
BIAA LILIA
QD-5, ul. Spichrzowa 16, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 70 74,
www.bialalilia.pl. 15 rooms (1 single, 13 doubles, 1 suite).
DOM AKTORA
QD-3, ul. Straganiarska 55/56, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58
301 61 93, www.domaktora.pl. 13 rooms (4 singles, 4
doubles, 9 apartments). TX
NOVOTEL CENTRUM
QD-5, ul. Pszenna 1, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 300 27 50,
www.accorhotels.com. 158 rooms (158 singles, 158
doubles). PTH6UFK hhh
SCANDIC GDASK
QB-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 9, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 300
60 00, www.scandichotels.com. 143 rooms (60 singles,
64 doubles, 18 suites). PTYH6UFKDw
hhhh
DOM MUZYKA
QK-3, ul. kowa 1-2, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 326 06 00,
www.dommuzyka.pl. 87 rooms (36 singles, 50 doubles,
1 apartment). PTH6UK
NOVOTEL GDASK MARINA

QM-6, ul. Jelitkowska 20, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 558
91 00, www.accorhotels.com. 176 rooms (25 singles,
149 doubles, 12 suites, 2 apartments). TH6U
FLKDC hhh
VILLA PICA PACA

QD-5, ul. Spichrzowa 20, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 320 20
70, www.picapaca.com. 17 rooms (8 singles, 8 doubles,
9 apartments). TL
DOM SCHUMANNW
QC-5, ul. Duga 45, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 52 72,
www.domschumannow.pl. 9 rooms (2 singles, 6 doubles, 1 apartment). TYH6
PARNAS
QD-5, ul. Spichrzowa 27, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 320 12
75, www.hotelparnas.pl. 12 rooms (11 singles, 11 doubles, 1 apartment). PTL
VILLA SEDAN
QM-4, ul. Puaskiego 18-20, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 09
80, www.sedan.pl. 22 rooms (3 singles, 12 doubles, 3
suites, 4 apartments). PTH6UK hh
FOCUS
Qul. Elblska 85, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 350 08 01, www.
focushotels.pl. 98 rooms (98 singles, 98 doubles, 3 triples). PTH6UFKD hhh
QUBUS HOTEL
QC-6, ul. Chmielna 47/52, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 752 21
00, www.qubushotel.com. 110 rooms (36 singles, 72
doubles, 2 apartments). PTYH6UFKD
hhhh
WILLA LUBICZ
QO-6, ul. Orowska 43, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 668 47 40,
www.willalubicz.pl. 16 rooms (15 singles, 12 doubles, 1
suite). TYHUKD hhh
IRENA
QM-4, ul. Chopina 36, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 20 73,
www.pensjonat-irena.com. 15 rooms (3 singles, 10 doubles, 1 triple, 1 quad). T6K
ZHONG HUA
QM-4, Al. Wojska Polskiego 1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58
550 20 20, www.hotelchinski.pl. 49 rooms (37 singles, 37 doubles, 10 apartments, 2 Mandaryn Suites).
T6UK hhh
LALALA ART HOTEL

QL-5, ul. Rzemielnicza 42, Sopot, tel. (+48) 792 84
02 93, www.lalala.lu. 8 rooms (8 singles, 8 doubles).
TH6K
RANY GAJ
QO-2, ul. Korzeniowskiego 19d, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58
719 55 55, www.rozanygaj.pl. 38 rooms (32 singles, 32
doubles, 3 triples, 3 suites). PTH6UKDC
hhh
KAMIENICA GOLDWASSER
QD-4, ul. Dugie Pobrzee 22, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 88
78, www.goldwasser.pl. 7 rooms (7 apartments). 6K
123
Hotels
Hotels
KAMIENICA GOTYK
QC-4, ul. Mariacka 1, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 85 67, www.
gotykhouse.eu. 7 rooms (7 singles, 7 doubles, 2 triples). T
/9=BJ=H9MCIHCCIFGHM@=G<F9G=89B79
@C75H98=BH<9<95FHC:85BG? H<9
7=HMC: 9J9@=IGA69F5B8&9DHIB9
KOBZA HAUS
QD-5, ul. Stgiewna 2/3, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 710 01
01, www.kobza.pl. 22 rooms (2 singles, 18 doubles, 2
apartments). PTH
NEW
MARINA CLUB HOTEL
QD-1, ul. Szafarnia 10, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 600 85 05,
www.marinaclubhotel.pl. 34 rooms (8 singles, 8 doubles, 26 apartments). PT6K hhh
OLIWSKI
QF-1, ul. Piastowska 1, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 761 66 10,
www.hoteloliwski.pl. 52 rooms (8 singles, 39 doubles, 5
triples). PTYH6U hhh
/9;I5F5BH99MCI5:F=9B8@M5HACGD<9F9
DFC:9GG=CB5@G9FJ=795B85BIB:CF;9HH56@9H=A9
Ul. Stgiewna 2/3, 80-750 Gdask

Tel. +48 58 710 01 01, Fax. +48 58 718 65 17
www.kobza.pl, recepcja@kobza.pl
SZYDOWSKI
QF-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 114, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 345 70
40, www.szydlowski.pl. 35 rooms (9 singles, 23 doubles,
3 apartments). PTH6UKD hhh
VILLA ADMIRA
QN-1, ul. 10-go Lutego 29a, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 661 20
38, www.admiralvilla.com.pl. 12 rooms (11 singles, 11
doubles, 1 suite). TY6
VILLA ANTONINA
QL-3, ul. Obrocw Westerplatte 36 A, Sopot, tel. (+48)
58 710 00 09, www.villaantonina.pl. 12 rooms (10 singles, 10 doubles, 2 apartments). PTH6K
VILLA EVA
QF-4, ul. Batorego 28b, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 341 67
85, www.villaeva.pl. 14 rooms (13 singles, 13 doubles, 1
apartment). TH6UK
Hotel accommodation
that hits the right note
7 minutes walk from Gdansk Old Town
VILLA GDYNIA
QO-4, ul. Kopernika 57, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 718 93 76,
www.hotelgdynia.pl. 16 rooms (16 singles, 13 doubles,
3 triples). PT
WILLA ANNA
QN-3, ul. Hetmaska 1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 622 26
00, www.willa-anna.eu. 7 rooms (3 singles, 3 doubles, 2
triples, 1 apartment). T
WILLA MAREA
QM-4, ul. Chrobrego 38 (entrance from ul. Parkowa 40),
Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 84 80, www.marea.sopot.pl. 18
rooms (16 singles, 16 doubles, 2 apartments). THU
ul. kowa 1-2, Tel. +48 58 326 06 00

www.dommuzyka.pl
WOLNE MIASTO
QB-4, ul. w. Ducha 2, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 305 22 55,
www.hotelwm.pl. 62 rooms (17 singles, 41 doubles, 3
suites, 1 apartment). THULK hhh
BUDGET
ABAK I MAC-TUR
QH-5, ul. Beethovena 8, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 322 04
40, www.abak.gda.pl. 22 rooms (3 singles, 15 doubles,
4 triples). TL
GRYF
QI-3, ul. Jana z Kolna 22/26, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 300 01
30, www.owgryf.pl. 67 rooms (41 singles, 64 doubles, 24
triples). H6UK
NEPTUN
QN-1, ul. Jana z Kolna 8, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 712 13 12,
www.hotelewam.pl. 21 rooms (3 singles, 17 doubles, 1
apartment). TY6UFKD hhh
PENSION EDEN
QM-4, ul. Kordeckiego 4/6, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 15
03, www.hotel-eden.pl. 26 rooms (3 singles, 11 doubles,
8 triples, 2 quads, 2 suites). TH6 hh
VILLA AKME
QI-5, ul. Drwcka 1, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 302 40 21,
www.akme.gda.pl. 18 rooms (6 singles, 11 doubles, 1
triple). THKD
MODERN HEROES
Unveiled in 2012 in the Ronald Reagan park in the Przymorze district of Gdansk is a statue showing two of
anti-Communisms most high prole gures walking
side by side in conversation. The statue shows how
importantly Poles view these two men in their modern history. When Karol Wojtyla became Pope John
Paul II in 1978, he visited his homeland and preached
32 sermons in 9 days creating what was described as
a psychological earthquake. Always calling for compromise not conict the Pope is recognised as having blown new life into the struggle when he came
to Gdansk in 1987. Reagan on the other hand is the
US President who very visibly lent the Polish people
his support, famously leaving a lit candle in the window of the White House at Christmas 1981, just after
the communist regime had implemented Martial Law.
His strong opposition to communism and combative
tactics combined with the Popes gentle but rm
diplomacy are seen by Poles as key to communism
collapsing.
The metal gures, which are both literally larger than
life at over 2 metres tall, were conceived and funded by
donations to the Godno (Dignity) Association and
are modelled on a famous photograph taken by Scott
Stewart of the Associated Press when the Pope and
President Reagan met in Miami in 1987. The engraving
in Polish reads Grateful for the independence of Poles.
125
Hotels
Hotels
HOTEL CALCULATOR
The choice and quality of hostels continues to improve rapidly with many hostels brand new.
GDANSK APARTMENTS
QB/C-4/5, tel. (+48) 503 05 71 42, rent-apartments-ingdansk.pl. 5 rooms (5 apartments). T6N
JOVI APARTMENTS
QL-5, ul. Wadysawa okietka 19C (2nd floor), Sopot,
tel. (+48) 797 60 11 00, www.joviapartments.com. 5
rooms (5 apartments). PT6FL
MAA ANGLIA BOUTIQUE APARTMENTS
QM-5, ul. Grunwaldzka 94, Sopot, tel. (+48) 504 95 69
24, www.malaanglia.pl. 7 rooms (7 apartments). T6
SEA TOWERS
QO-1, ul. Hryniewickiego 6, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 608 50 23 33,
www.seatowers24.pl. 30 rooms (30 apartments). PT
DANZIG/GDASK
GDANSK APARTMENTS
A selection of fully renovated apartments available for long or

short-term rental in the old town of Gdansk and Sopot.
Apartments can sleep from 1 to 6 people, are equipped with all
modern utilities and are fully serviced.
Prices and viewing on application.
Let us nd you a home from home while you are here in Poland.
rent-apartments-in-gdansk.pl
Contact Patricia on + 48 503 057 142 or at gdanskota@hotmail.com
Anybody vaguely acquainted with history, or indeed

heavy metal, will be familiar with the name of Danzig.
What you may not know is that Danzig and Gdask are
one and the same. The Polish name, Gdask is actually
the real McCoy, meaning town located on the Gdania
river. The name Danzig came into usage during the
1300s after the city fell under the inuence of the Germanic Teutonic Knights. Danzig came rmly under German control in 1871 as part of the Prussian Empire and
would remain so until the end of WWI.
After the war the majority of the towns inhabitants remained German, though the city fell under the jurisdiction of the League of Nations who baptized it The Free
City of Danzig. This quasi state functioned until Hitler
decided to seize it in the name of the fatherland, thus
triggering WWII. The aftermath of the war saw much of
the German population exiled westwards, and the city
repopulated with Poles, themselves shifted west following the expansion of the Soviet Union. The city was
renamed Gdask, and a program of heavy propaganda
in the 1950s and 60s all but eradicated what remained
of the towns German heritage. Today Gdask is a popular holiday spot with Germans keen to trace their roots,
and you can still spot signs with German lettering in
areas like Biskupia Gra.
CENTRAL HOSTEL
QL-4, ul. Bohaterw Monte Cassino 15, Sopot, tel. (+48)
530 85 87 17, www.hostelcentral.pl. 29 rooms (14 singles, 14 doubles, 9 suites, 50 dorm beds).
GRAND HOSTEL
QB-4, ul. Koodziejska 2, Gdask, tel. (+48) 666 06 13
50, www.grandhostel.pl. 13 rooms (9 doubles, 3 triples,
26 dorm beds). P
HAPPY SEVEN
QD-3, ul. Grodzka 16, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 320 86 01,
www.happyseven.com. 14 rooms (9 singles, 9 doubles,
37 dorm beds). Y
HOSTEL UNIVERSUS
QB-4, ul. Podgarbary 10, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 301 81
14, www.hostel.universus.pl. 11 rooms (1 single, 4 doubles, 17 dorm beds). T6
HOSTEL ZAPPIO
QD-4, ul. witojaska 49, Gdask, tel. (+48) 58 322
01 74, www.zappio.pl. 18 rooms (2 singles, 3 doubles,
4 triples, 4 quads, 1 apartment, 32 dorm beds). TK
LUNATIC HOSTEL
QL-5, Al. Niepodlegoci 739/2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 507 52
45 25, www.lunatichostel.com. 4 rooms (28 dorm beds).
N
MIDTOWN HOSTEL
QB-3, Podwale Staromiejskie 105/106 lok.1, Gdask,
tel. (+48) 58 710 50 57, www.midtownhostel.pl. 9 rooms
(6 singles, 6 doubles, 1 quad, 1 six-person room).
OCH! HOSTEL
QN-2, ul. witojaska 85, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 500 31 47
37, www.ochhostel.pl. 8 rooms (2 singles, 3 doubles, 2
apartments, 16 dorm beds). T6
RIVERSIDE HOSTEL
QC-5, ul. Powronicza 18-24 lok. 2, Gdask, tel. (+48)
881 43 77 78, www.riverside-hostel.pl. 7 rooms (3 doubles, 3 triples, 32 dorm beds). Y
SISTERS LODGE HOSTEL
QM-5, ul. Grunwaldzka 59/1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 533 40
34, www.sisterslodge.com. 6 rooms (4 doubles, 1 triple,
1 eight-person room). G
Maa anglia apartments for rent
ROYAL APARTMENTS
QM-4, ul. Puaskiego 10, Sopot, tel. (+48) 603 10 84 32,
www.royal-apartments.pl. 50 rooms (50 apartments).
T6
BLUES ROOMS
QO-1, ul. Portowa 9, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 600 92 85 46,
www.bluesrooms.pl. 5 rooms (3 singles, 3 doubles, 1
quad, 1 six-person room).
tel/fax +48 58 - 765 - 01 - 57, GSM +48 504 - 956 - 924

www.malaanglia.pl recepcja@malaanglia.pl
The concept of In Your Pocket has always been

to provide our readers and website users with as
much relevant information as possible about the
city they are visiting and to allow them to make
up your own minds. In addition to the hundreds of
hotel listings, with full descriptions and up-to-date
details (researched every 2-4 months), available on
our website - poland.inyourpocket.com - we also
oer a hotel price comparison function on our
website. Called HotelCalculator, this free service
compares hotel prices for the nights selected from
across dozens of dierent web booking engines
such as bookings.com, activehotels.com, laterooms.
com and hoteladvisor.com. You are then presented
with the best rates available online, which are often
well below the ocial rack rates. Once you select the
rate you want, you are transferred to the relevant
site, through which you book directly. It couldnt
be simpler, more eective or more in keeping with
our policy of providing unbiased information to our
readers. Take a look at poland.inyourpocket.com the
next time you are searching for a room in Poland and
see what In Your Pocket with HotelCalculator can nd
for you.
HOSTELS
An attractive alternative to staying in a hotel room is to

book one of the apartments now available around the
town. The ones we list are all modernised and centrally
located so you can enjoy all that Gdansk has to oer in a
home from home.
BOUTIQUE
APARTMENTS
SOPOT
Get the Best Rates on poland.inyourpocket.com
APARTMENTS
127
Roads to Freedom
Madison
Scandic
Mercure
Gdask
Stare
Miasto
Bonum
Grand Cru
Farenheit
Hilton
Midtown
Bogu
saws
kiego
Admira
Gdansk
Dom Harcerza
Shakespeare
Theatre
Radisson
Kobza Haus
Qubus
Polferries
Lighthouse Terminal
Museum
Wisoujcie Wisoujcie
Fortess
Ferry
Ka
r tu
sk
Galeria
Batycka
Baltica
Mciw
oja
Willa Anna
Villa Admira
Waterfront
Kuracyjny
Villa Gdynia
Rany Gaj
Zawiszy
Czarnego
Skwe
r Ko
ciuszk
i
Blick
Lalala
Rze
mie
lnic
za
Ergo Arena
Molo
Residence
Mera
Bayjonn
Sofitel
Villa Aqua
RUMIA
GDYNIA
SOPOT
OLIWA
GDASK
STARE
MIASTO
S
Gd zcze
yn cin
ia
Gdask centrum
Port Pnocny
Westerplatte
ELBLG
WARSZAWA
CEDRY
MAE
Street Register
SOPOT
(PG. 132-133)
1 Maja
L-4
23 Marca
L-3
3 Maja
L/M-5
Abrahama
L-4
Andersa, gen.
L-4
Architektw
M-6
Armii Krajowej
L-3/5
Bitwy pod Powcam
M-5/6
Boczna
L-5
Bohaterw Monte Cassino L/M-4
Broniewskiego
L-4
Budzysza
M-3
Ceynowy
M-3
Chopina
L/M-4
Dbowa
L-5
Drzymay
M-5
Fiszera, gen.
M-4
Gowackiego
L-5/6
Goyki
L/M-3
Grottgera
L-4
Grunwaldzka
M-4/5
Hanera
M-2/4
Helska
M-3
Jagiey
L-4
Jana Kazimierza
L-5
Jana z Kolna
L-5
Joselewicza
L/M-5
Junakw
L-2
Karlikowska
M-5
Kaszubska
L-2
Kazimierza Wielkiego
M4/5
Kiliskiego
M-5
Kochanowskiego
L-5
Konopnickiej
L-4
Konstytucji 3 Maja, pl.
L-4
Kopernika
L-5
Kordeckiego
M-4
Kociuszki
L 4/5
Krasickiego
L-4
Kraszewskiego
L-2
Ksit Pomorskich
M-5
Ksiycowa
L-3
Kubacza, dr.
L-4
Kujawska
L-2
Kusociskiego, pl.
M-3
Lipowa
L-5
owicka
L-2
uycka
L-2
Malczewskiego
L-2/3
Maopolska
L-2
Mamuszki, al.
M-3/4
Marynarzy
L-4
Mazowiecka
L-2
Mickiewicza
L-4
Mieszka I
M4/5
Mokwy
M-4
Moniuszki
L-4
Morska
M-4
Na Wydmach
M-5
Niepodlegoci, al.
L/M-2/6
Obodrzycw
L-2
Obrocw Westerplatte
L-3/4
Okrna
L-3
Okrzei
M-5
Paderewskiego
L-4
Parkowa
M-4/5
Piastw
M-4
Plater
M-5
Podgrna
L-2/3
Pogodna
M-6
Polna
L/M-5
Poniatowskiego, ks.
M-5
Powstacw Warszawy M-3/4
Przemysowa
L-5/6
Puaskiego
M-4
Racawicka
L-5/6
Reja
L-5
Spia
M-2
Sienkiewicza
L-2
Sikorskiego, gen.
L-4
Skarpowa
L/M-5
Skodowskiej-Curie
L-5
Sobieskiego
M-4/5
Sportowa
L-6
Strzelecka
L-3/4
Traugutta
M-5
Wejherowska
L-2/3
Winieckiego
M-3/4
Wadysawa IV
L-5
Wadysawa okietka
L-5/6
Wojska Polskiego, al.
M-5/6
Wybickiego
L-4
Zacisze
L-3
Zamenhofa
L-4
Zamkowa Gra
M-2
Zdrj w. Wojciech
M-6
Zdrojowy, pl.
M-4
GDYNIA
10 Lutego
3 Maja
Abrahama
Armii Krajowej
Asnyka
Batorego
Bema gen.
Biaostocka
Dbrowskiego gen.
Dworcowa
Focha
Fredry
Grunwaldzki pl.
Hala
Harcerska
Hetmaska
Hryniewickiego
Chopina
I Armii WP
Jana z Kolna
Kasprowicza
Kaszubski pl.
Konstytucji pl.
Kopernika
Kocielna
Krasickiego
Kronieska
Legionw
Lotnikw
Maczka gen.
Matejki
Mickiewicza
Mokwy
Moniuszki
Morska
Necla
(PG. 132-133)
N/O-1
N-1
N-1/2
N/O-1
N-2
N-1
N-2
N-2
N-3/4
N-1
N-3
O-2
N-1
N-1
N-3
N-3
O-1
O-3
N/O-2
N-1
O-2
N-1
N-1
N/O-3/4
N-5
N/O-2
N-5
N/O-2/5
N-5
N-3
O-3
O-2
N/O-4
O-3
N-1
N/O-2
Norwida
O-3
Obrocw Wybrzea
N-1
Orowska
O-6
Orzeszkowej
N-3
Paderewskiego
O-3
Partyzantw
N/O-3
Perkuna
O-6
Pisudskiego marsz. al. N/O-2/3
Podolska
N-1/2
Poleska
N-1
Portowa
O-1
Powstania Styczniowego N/O-4
Powstania Wielkopolskiego
N/O-4/5
Przebendowskich
O-6
Puaskiego
O-1
Radtkego
N-1
Redowska
N/O-4
Reja
N-3
Sdzickiego
O-2
Senatorska
N-3/4
Sienkiewicza
O-2
Sieroszewskiego
O-2
Skona
N-4
lska
N-1/2
Sowackiego
N-2
Stwosza
O-2
witojaska
N/O-1/2
Wachowiaka
N-3/4
Warszawska
N-1/2
Waszyngtona
O-1
Wadysawa IV
N-1/2
Wojewdzka
N-3/4
Wyspiaskiego
O-3
wirki i Wigury
N-2
Index
GDASK
3 Maja
A-1/2/3/4
Aksamitna
C-1
al. gen. Jzefa Hallera G-3, F-2
al. Grunwaldzka E/F/G-2/3/4
al. Jana Pawa II
E-3
al. Legionw
F-3
al. Rzeczypospolitej
E-3
al. Zwycistwa
H-3
Angielska Grobla
K-3
Arciszewskiego
E-5
Asnyka
F-2
Batorego
F-4
Beethovena
H-5
Bema
I/J-4
Biaa
F-3
Biegaskiego
J-5
Bielaska
B-3
Biskupia
A-5/6
Broniewskiego
G/H-1
Browicza
K-5
Brygidki
C-2
Brzenieska
G-1
Chaubiskiego
J-5
Chlebnicka
C-4
Chmielna
C-6, D-5/6
Cystersw
E-1/2
Czyewskiego
E-1
Dbrowskiego
I-3/4
Dbowa
H-4
Danusi
F-3
Deptak Nadmorski
G-1
Dmowskiego
F-3
Do Studzienki
G-4
Dokerw
J-2
Doki
B-1
Drwcka
I-5
Drzewieckiego
E-2
Duga
B-4
Duga Grobla
K-2/3
Dugi Targ
C-5
Dugie Ogrody
K-3
Dugie Pobrzee
D-4/5
Dyrekcyjna
A-1
Dziana
D-4
abi Kruk
B-6
eleskiego
E-4
Elbietaska
B-3
wirki i Wigury
E-2
ytnia
D-5
Fiszera
G-3
Garbary
B-4
Garncarska
B-3
Gaczyskiego
H-1
Gdaska
G-1/2
Gnilna
B-2
Grayny
F-3
Grobla
C-3/4
Grodzka
D-3
Grota-Roweckiego
I/J-1
Grottgera
E-2
Gboka
K-2
Hallera
G-1/2/3, F-2
Heweliusza
B-2
Hodu Pruskiego
F-1
Hubala
E-4
Hucisko
A-3/4
Hynka
E-3
Jana z Kolna
H/I-3
Jaskcza
K-3/4
Jakowa
Dolina
F-4, F/G-5
Kaletnicza
C-4
Kaprw
F-2
Karmelicka
B-2
Kartuska
J-4, I-5
(PG. 129-131)
Katarzynki
C-3
Klesza
C-4
Klonowicza
F/G-4
Konopnickiej
F-3
Korzeniowskiego
G-1
Korzenna
B-2
Kotwicznikw
C-5
Kociuszki
E-3, F2/3
Koodziejska
B-4
Kozia
C-4
Kramarska
C-4
Krasickiego
H-1
Krzywa
J-2
Kupiecka
B-1
Lawendowa
C-3
Legnicka
I-4
Lektykarska
B/C-4
Lelewela
F-3
Lendziona
F-3/4
Lisia Grobla
C-1
Lotnikw Polskich
J-5
Ludowa
E-4/5
Majkowskiego
F-2
Mariacka
C-4
Matejki
G-4
Mickiewicza
F-2/3
Minogi
C/D-3
Miszewskiego
G-3
Mokra
C/D-4
Motawska
D-5
Myska
B-3
Myny Wielkie
B-2/3
Na Piaskach
B-3
Na Stoku
A-5
Narutowicza
G-3
Nobla
G-5
Nowe Ogrody
J-4
Obr. Poczty Pol.
D-2
Obrocw Westerplatte E-2
Ogarna
B/C-5
Okopowa
B-4/5/6
Olejarna
C-2
Oliwska
I/J-1
Opacka
E-1
Osiek
C-2
Oowianka
D-3/4
Owsiana
D-6
Panieska
C-2
Paska
C-3
Partyzantw
F-4, E-4/5
Piastowska
F-1
Pileckiego
G-4
Pilotw
E-3
Piwna
B/C-4
Pl. Dominikaski
C-3
Pl. Waowy
K-4
Pocztowa
B-4/5
Poczty Gd.
F-2
Podbielaska
B-2
Podkramarska
C-4
Podmyska
B/C-3
Podwale Staromiejskie
C-3
Podwale Grodzkie A-2/3, B-2
Politechniczna
G-3
Pomorska
F-1
Poczosznikw
C/D-5
Portowcw
G-1
Powronicza
C-5
Powstacw
Profesorska
C-3
Przdzalnicza
C/D-4
Przemysowa
H-1
Pszenna
D-5
Rajska
B-2
Reduta bik
K-3
Refektarska
C-2
Reja
G-2/3
Rybaki Dolne
C-2
Rybaki Grne
C-1/2
Rzenicka
B-5/6
Schopenhauera
E-2
Siedlicka
G-4
Sienkiewicza
F/G-4
Sienna Grobla
J/K-2
Siennicka
K-2/3
Skaryskiego
E-3
Sobieskiego
G/H-4
Srebrniki
E-5
Stary Rynek Oliwski
E-2
Stolarska
C-2
Straganiarska
C-3
Stwosza
E-2
Subisawa
F-1
Sucharskiego
J-5, K-4
Sodownikw
C-5
Somiana
C-3
Sowackiego
E-4/5
Suwalska
G-5
Szafarnia
D-4
Szeroka
B-3, C-3/4
Szewska
C-4
Szkocka
K-5
Targ Rakowy
A-4
Targ Sienny
a-4
Targ Rybny
D-3
Targ Wglowy
B-4
Teatralna
B-4
Tkacka
B-4
Tokarska
D-4
Toruska
B-6
Trakt w. Wojciecha
K-4/5
Traugutta
G-4, H-3
Trawki
E-5
Tuwima
H-3
Twarda
G/H-2
agiewniki
B-1
luza
K-4
uycka
J-5
w. Barbary
K-3
w. Ducha
B/C/D-4
w. Piotra
C-6
w. Trjcy
B-5
witojaska
C-3
widnicka
I-4
Wajdeloty
F-3
Wartka
D-3
Waryskiego
F-3
Warzywnicza
D-3
Waowa
B-1/2, C/D-1
Way Jagielloskie A-3, B-3/4
Way Piastowskie
B-1
Wieniawskiego
I-5
Wilcza
B-6
Wileska
G-4/5
Wyspiaskiego
G-3
Wyzwolenia
I-2
Za Murami
B/C-5
Zabockiego
G-5
Zabytkowa
E/F-4
Zakopiaska
I/J-4
Zakosy
I-5
Zamenhofa
E-4
Zamkowa
C-2
Zawrotna
B-2
Zbytki
B-5
Zelwerowicza
H-2
Zielonogrska
J-5
Zielony Trjkt
G-2
Zotnikw
C-4
3 Burger
34
Abak i Mac-tur
125
Abrahama
39
Admira
120
A La Franaise
37
Althaus Kuchnia Bawarska 34
Amber
123
Amber Museum
83
Amsterdam Bar Beer & Bagel
56, 67
Anker
56
Antares
123
Aquapark
107
Archaeology Education Centre
- "Bkitny Lew"
84
Art Deco
50
Artus
123
Artus Court
77
Atelier
72
Atelier Magda Beneda
114
August Accords
11
Avocado
38
Bar Bursztyn
33
Bar Mleczny Neptun
33
Bar Mleczny Soneczny
33
Bar Mleczny Turystyczny 33
Bar Pod Ryb
56
Bar Przysta
36
Bayjonn Hotel
120
Bayjonn/Thai Thai
32
Best Western Hotel Bonum120
BEST WESTERN PLUS Business
Faltom Hotel Gdynia
120
Best Western Villa Aqua Hotel
123
Biaa Lilia
123
Biae Wino i Owoce
58
Billy's American Restaurant 31
Bistro Mapa
34
Bkitny Pudel
67
Blick
120
Blues Rooms
127
Byskawica
80
Bocian Morski
39
Bohemia Beer Cafe
35
Bollywood Lounge
72
Brasserie D'or
37
Brovarnia
40, 67
Browar Miejski Sopot
40
Buddha Lounge
60, 67
Bulaj
40
Bunkier Klubogaleria
72
Caf Absinthe
68
Caf Bar Mon Balzac
40
Cafe Kamienica
62
Cafe Strych
68
Cemetery of the Lost
Cemeteries
78
Central Hostel
127
Centrum Hewelianum
106
Centrum Nauki Experyment 106
Centrum Riviera
116
Centrum U7 Gdask
105
Ceramika Bolesawiecka 114
Church of St. John the Baptist
102
Chwila
32, 62
City of Gdynia Museum
84
Club & Lounge UNIQUE
72
Coco
41
Coctail Bar Max Sopot
68
Corpus Christi Church
78
Covered Market
115
Crooked House
86
Crudo
59
Cuda Wianki
56
Cyrano et Roxane
37
Czarna Pera
104
Czekolada
72
Dalmacija
35
Dar Pomorza
84
Desdemona
68
Dom Aktora
123
Domek eromskiego
63
Dom Muzyka
123
Dom Schumannw
123
Dom Sushi
48
Dream Club
73
Dwadziecia Cztery Dania
Bistro & Bar
41
Eastend
113
Easy Gdask Tours
79
El Greco
38
Empik
112
Eskimo
65
Eter Boutique
113
European Solidarity Centre 11
Extreme
107
Fahrenheit
120
Fanaberia Crepes & Cafe 56
Fashion House
116
Father Jankowski statue
80
Filharmonia
50
Findlocalgift.com
114
Flaming & Co.
35
Flisak 76
68
F.Minga
32
Focus
123
Fountain
86
Four Quarters Fountain
80
Free City of Danzig Historical
Zone
91
Galeon Lew
104
Galeria Batycka
116
Galeria Batycka Food Court 57
Galeria Bursztynu Prestige 111
Galeria Sztuki Kaszubskiej 113
Galeria Wydra
111
Garrison Church of St Jerzy 78
Gdask
120
Gdaska
54
Gdansk Apartments
126
Gdansk History Museum 83

Gdaski Bowke
41
Gdask Tourist Information
Centre
77
Gdansk with us
79
Gdask Zoo
107
Gdynia
120
Golden Gate
76
Golden Tulip Gdansk
Residence
120
Goldwasser
32, 41
Goldwasser Coffee Shop 62, 64
Goldwasser restaurant
111
Good Morning Vietnam
61
Granary Island
86
Grand Cru
120
Grand Hostel
127
Grand SPA
109
Great Armoury
86
Great Mill
86
Green Gate
77
Green Way
61
Grono di Rucola
46
Gryf
125
Guardhouse Number 1
95
Haffner
120
Haffner Monument
80
Hala Targowa
115
Hampton by Hilton Gdansk
Airport
121
Hanza
121
Happy Seven
127
Hard Rock Cafe
31, 69
Hashi Sushi
48
Hevelius's Home & Brewery 89
High 5
69
Hilton Hotel
119
Historical Gate #2 of the
Gdansk Shipyard
12
History
96
Holland House Residence 121
Hostel Universus
127
Hostel Zappio
127
Hotel Haffner Spa
109
Hotel SPA Faltom
121
Hotton
121
IBB Dwr Oliwski City Hotel &
SPA
119
Irena
123
Jan III Sobieski Monument
12, 81
Johannes Hevelius Monument
89
Joseph Conrad Monument 81
JOVI Apartments
126
Jzef K.
69
Jzef Pisudski Monument 81
Kajakiem po Gdasku
104
Kamienica Goldwasser
123
Kamienica Gotyk
124
Kandelabry
69
Karczma Irena
50
Karczma Polska Zagroda 51
Kart Center
105
Kashubia Cultural and
Education Center
106
Kava
32
Kebabistan
57
KFC
57
Kleopatra Restaurant & Pub 42
Klif
117
Kobza Haus
124
Kokieteria
42
Kopernik Sweets
112
KOS
111
Krakowski Kredens
114
Krlewski
121
Kuchnia Rosyjska
58
Kuracyjny
121
Kwadrans
57
La Fortuna
46
Lalala Art Hotel
123
Lao Thai
60
La Pampa Steakhouse
59
Le Bonjour
37
Lech Wasa
12
LOFT
70
Long Market & Neptune
Fountain
77
Long Street
76
Lookier Cafe & Restaurant
32, 62
Lunatic Hostel
127
Madison Park
117
Main Town Hall
77
Maa Anglia Boutique
Apartments
126
Malbork Welcome Center 102
Malgorzata Mazur
79
Malika
49
Marina Club Hotel
124
Maritime Culture Centre 82
Mary's Gate
102
Masala
38
McDonald's
57
Mera SPA
109
Mera SPA Hotel
121
Mera Spa Hotel Brasserie 61
Mercure Gdask Stare Miasto
121
Metamorfoza
54
Mewa Towarzyska
70
Miasto Aniow
72
Midtown Hostel
127
Mila
111
Minigolf Club Sopot
105
Mi
65
Mody Byron
63
Mojito
42
Molo Residence
121
Moment
42
Monte Vino
43
137
Index
Monument of King Kazimierz
IV Jagielloczyk
102
Monument of the Fallen
Shipyard Workers
13
Monument to the Evacuated
Children
81
Morska
36
Muzeum Stutthof w Sztutowie
97
Nadmorski
121
Na Drug Nk
73
Nalenikowo
57
National Maritime Museum 82
National Museum Old Art
Department
85
Naval Museum
85
Neighbours Kitchen
32
Neptun
125
New Town Hall
91
Nie dotyczy rowerw
104
Non Stop
111
Nova Pierogova
32
Novotel Centrum
122
Novotel Gdask Marina 122
Nowy Port Lighthouse
95
Och! Hostel
127
Old Town Hall
89, 103
Oliwa Cathedral
78
Oliwski
124
Panaya
60
Panorama
50
Parnas
122
Patio Espaol
32, 58
Pension Eden
125
Pescatore
46
Pier
86
Pierogarnia Pieroek
51
Pierogarnia U Dzika
51
Pies i Ra
63
Pijalnia Wdki i Piwa
58
Pikawa
64
Pirate ships
104
Pizza Hut
57
Pizzeria Margherita
47
Podewils
119
Pod ososiem
54
Pod ososiem restaurant 111
Pokad
72
Potters' Gate
103
Pracownia i Galeria Styl 111
Prison Tower and Torture
Chamber
76
Przyjaciki Cafe
64
PTTK Gdask Tourist
Information
77
Pub Charlie
31
Pub Duszek
70
Pub Puapka
71
Pueblo
50
Qubus Hotel
122
Radisson Blu
119
Restauracja Panorama
43
Restauracja Ritz
32
Restauracja Sztuczka
43
Retro Cafe
64
Rezydent
119
Ristorante La Cucina
47
Riverside Hostel
127
Roads to Freedom
114
Rotunda Cafe
64
Royal Apartments
126
Royal Chapel
79
Rany Gaj
122
Rucola
43
Salonik pod Skrzydlatym
Anioem
113
Scandic Gdask
122
Sea Towers
126
Sempre Pizza e Pasta
47
Senso Restaurant & Bar
50
Sfinks700
72
Sheraton Sopot Hotel,
Conference Center & Spa 119
Sierra Golf Club
105
Sisters Lodge Hostel
127
Sklep Cyrano Wina i Sery 111
Smakosz
51
Sofitel Grand Sopot
119
Sodek
82
Sopocki Rynek
115
Sopot Fort
87
Sopot Museum
85
Spatif
73
rdmiecie
71
Stacja Sopot
70
Statek Pirat
105
St. Bridget's Church
12, 79
St. Catherine's Church
89
St. John's Church
89
St. Mary's Church
79
St. Nicholas' Church
79
Subway
57
Sushi 77
49
Szafa Gdaska
114
Szafarnia 10
32
Szydowski
124
Taj Mahal
38
Tandoor House
39
Tandoori Love
39
Tapas De Rucola
59
Targ Rybny - Fishmarkt
36
Tawerna
36
Tekstylia
44, 71
Tesoro
48
Tesoro Express
57
Thai Thai
60
The Crane
82
The Gdask Shakespeare
Theatre
81
The Latin School Building 103
The Mexican
50
The Museum of the Second
World War
94
The Spa at Sheraton Sopot 109
Tusta Kaczka
53
Tokyo Sushi
49
Toscana Restaurant
48
Tourbike/ Sopocki Rower 104
Tourist Information Center 77
Tourist Information Sopot 77
Trattoria Antica
48
Trio
44
Trip 2 Gdansk/Joanna Tours 79
Tupot Mew
70
U Kucharzy
53
ul. Piwna
89
Upland Gate
76
Villa Admira
124
Villa Akme
125
Villa Antonina
124
Villa Eva
124
Villa Gdynia
124
Villa Pica Paca
122
Villa Sedan
44, 122
Vinegre di Rucola
44
Vinoteque Sopot & Cigar
Lounge
73
Water Taxi
107
Willa Anna
124
Willa Lubicz
45, 122
Willa Marea
124
Wisoujcie Fortress
87
Wolne Miasto
124
Wtedy
73
Wydzia Remontowy
71
Yang Guang
35
Zatoka Sztuki
45
Zhong Hua
122
Za Kobieta
73
uraw
45
FEATURES INDEX
Across the Water
Blyskawica
Brunch
Bunkier
Crooked House
Daniel Fahrenheit
Danzig/Gdask
Facts & Figures
Food with a View
Goldwasser
Hotel Calculator
Ice Cream
Language Smarts
Local Beer
Local Gifts
Market Values
Milk Bars
Modern Heroes
Monciak
Museum of Emigration
New Town Hall
Oliwa Cathedral
Polish Food
Polish Name Days
Polish snacks & shots
Regional
Shakespeare Theatre
Solidarity
Tour Guides
Tourist Card
Tourist Information
32
80
61
72
73
46
126
20
50
55
126
65
21
44
117
20
33
125
63
84
91
78
52
112
58
54
81
8
79
83
77

Gdańsk: Including Sopot & Gdynia

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Gdańsk: Including Sopot & Gdynia

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Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Arrival & Transport

Culture & Events

Maps & Index

August - November 2014

Company Oce & Accounts

Sales & Circulation

In 1980 an unknown, out-ofwork electrician scaled the wall

Copyright Notice & Editors Note

Gdask In Your Pocket

We have come a long way in the 22

What is the Tri-city?

Gdask In Your Pocket

Gdynia is a city born out of the Treaty of Versailles in 1919.

In August, 1980 the dismissal of female crane operator,

This time the workers learned from the mistakes of 1970

ful victory over communism. The agreement was famously

August - November 2014

Grzegorz Mehring / ECS Archives

ECS PERMANENT EXHIBITION

The triumph of Freedom in the nal hall shows how the

Pawe Czarzasty / ECS Archives

August - November 2014

ROADS TO FREEDOM EXHIBITION

Arrival & Transport

The city is connected to all major cities in Poland with travel

GDASK GWNY BUS STATION

GDASK GWNY TRAIN STATION

GDYNIA GWNA BUS STATION

    

Arrival & Transport

Arrival & Transport

* NET PRICE PER DAY, MIN. 3 DAYS REQUIRED,

Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road fatalities,

Also at Gdask, ul. Podwale

A wide range of cars from

GUARDED PARKINGQO-1, ul. Armii Krajowej 22

16 Gdask In Your Pocket

August - November 2014

Arrival & Transport

Arrival & Transport

TANIE LINIE EGLUGOWE

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite

HEALTH & EMERGENCY

McDonald's Big Mac

Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates,

LAW & ORDER

Polish Words & Phrases

(Mam nah ee-myeh)

August - November 2014

Now a bustling conurbation known locally as Trojmiasto

19th Century Napoleons advance eastwards sees Gdask established as a free

1970s The events of 1970 in Gdask and Gdynia are the

1980s A general strike is called in August 1980 by the

1990s Following Solidarnos victory in 1989 the new

Culture & Events

Culture & Events

GNTER GRASS GALLERY IN GDASK

BALTIC CULTURAL CENTRE