Krakow

Hotels Restaurants Bars Sights Shops Events Maps
KRAKW
April - May 2013
N81
Poland - 5z (w tym 8% VAT)
UK - 5
EU (excl. Poland & UK) - 3
krakow.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1508-2334
Wolski Forest
Mountain hideaway
of mounds, monks
and monkeys
Podgrze
What lies
beyond the river
In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.
The New York Times
4
Krakw In Your Pocket
CONTENTS
Feature
Las Wolski 8
Arrival & Transport 10
The Basics 14
Culture & Events 16
Hotels 24
Restaurants 32
Cafs 62
Nightlife
Bars & Pubs 65
Clubs 70
Kazimierz Nightlife 74
History 76
Sightseeing 78
Old Town 79
Wawel 89
Kazimierz 92
Podgrze 96
Jewish Ghetto 99
Paszw 101
Salwator 104
Nowa Huta 106
Further Afield
Wieliczka 109
Auschwitz 112
Tarnw 116
Tyskie 120
Leisure 121
Shopping 124
Directory 129
Maps & Index
City Centre Map 131
City Map 132
Nowa Huta Map 134
Street Register 135
Listings Index 136
Features Index 138
Looming over Krakw only minutes from the centre is
over 1000 acres of undeveloped wilderness the perfect
antidote to urban existence. Criss-crossed with hiking trails,
Wolski Forest (Las Wolski) not only provides the perfect
springtime recreational retreat to city dwellers, but also
a habitat to both native wildlife and the exotic creatures
in the popular Krakw Zoo. But thats not all; turn to
page 8 to discover what possessed the Italian football
team to trek out to Las Wolski on foot in the middle of the
night while training for Euro 2012. [Photo: Pawel Krzan,
krzan.pl, krakow4u.pl]
Contents
Tadeusz Pankiewicz (pictured, background) and his
staff were ordinary Poles put upon by extraordinary
circumstances in 1941 when their small pharmacy in
Podgrze suddenly found itself operating in the middle
of the Krakw Ghetto. Though his actions in helping
countless Jews survive the war later earned Pankiewicz
recognition as Righteous Among the Nations, he and
his staff were ultimately helpless as they watched the
liquidation of the ghetto take place from the windows of
the pharmacy. To mark the tragic events 70
th
anniversary
in March, the Pharmacy Under the Eagle was reopened
as a museum documenting life in the ghetto. Part of our
extensive section on Podgrze, turn to page 99 for more.
[Photo courtesy of Krakw History Museum]
6
Krakw In Your Pocket
FOREWORD
Copyright Notice
Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP
Sp. z o.o., IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.
Maps copyright cartographer. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication
may be reproduced in any form, except
brief extracts for the purpose of review,
without written permission from the
publisher and copyright owner. The
brand name In Your Pocket is used
under license from UAB In Your Pocket
(Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel.
(+370-5) 212 29 76).
Maps
Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM
ul. Poselska 20, 31-117 Krakw,
agencja@pod-aniolem.com.pl
I am ready to admit that the very appearance
Of this ancient city is a joy to all people.
Its folk are worthy of praise and all things abound
There, from markets to shrines to Almighty God.
You will gather tidings from foreign countries here
And you will meet a wayfarer who has come from afar.
Above the city the hill and towers of Wawel rise
Whilst the noisy waters of the River Vistula flow.
So the poet Klemens Janicki wrote of Krakw in 1542,
though the aspiring poets of today (if there still were such
a thing) might just as easily compose the same verses
upon a visit to the city 471 years later. Pretty much all
Janicki left out is the sweet mead that stirs the men
to fill every basement tavern with boisterous song, and
the waxen-haired women whose flawless beauty and
famous charms they sing of. Indeed the spring can be
a dangerous time to visit Krakw for those intending
to leave again, as the formidable confluence of rising
temperatures and hemlines, plus a full calendar of cultural
events (p.16), all conspire to keep you from catching your
flight home. This guide is basically an instruction manual
explaining what to do when that happens and why you
shouldnt be upset when it does.
This month weve done a thorough refreshing of the
guide, from the colours to the photos, and as with every
issue before it seemingly since the days of yore, within
these pages youll find all the most honest, unbiased
and meticulously up-to-date information on the citys
best and worst dining establishments (p.32), drinking
holes (p.65) and dance parties (p.70), plus what to do
and see in between. Popular recreational destination
Las Wolski (p.8) premieres in the guide as this issues
feature, and after months of preparation, were proud
to finally unveil our full guide to Podgrze (p.96), which
you may have noticed is our favourite part of town. All
that and more, dear friends, so find yourself a sunny
beer garden (p.65) and give this trusty tome a thorough
read to discover all there is to love about Krakw. As
always, we accept praise and complaints via editor_
poland@inyourpocket.com. Now go have a good time,
and our sincerest good luck in getting home again.
Editorial
Writer/Editor Garrett Van Reed
Research Manager Anna Hojan
Researchers Maria Rulaff, Oli wia Hojan,
Micha Albrychowicz
Events Anna Hojan, Janina Krzysiak,
Garrett Van Reed
Photography In Your Pocket, Pawe Krzan
Cover Pawel Krzan, krzan.pl, krakow4u.pl
Sales & Circulation
Director: Magorzata Drzszcz 606 749 676
Krakw/Katowice/Tarnw Manager
Monika Szymanek 668 876 351
Warszawa/d Manager
Marta Ciepy 606 749 643
Wrocaw/Pozna Manager
Agata Trocha 606 749 642
Gdansk/Bydgoszcz Manager
Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824
Publisher
IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.
ul. Sawkowska 12, 31-014 Krakw
Company Office & Accounts
Joanna Szlosowska
58 555 08 31
krakow@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
Published 20,000 copies,
6 times per year
The number of cities now covered by In Your Pocket in
print, online and via mobile application has climbed over
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advertising or sponsored listings. In Your Pocket writers do
not accept free meals, sexual favours, first-born children or
other bribes in return for favourable reviews and reserve the
right to say whatever the hell they damn well please about
the venues listed in this guide, regardless of disagreement
from advertisers, owners or the general public. The editor has
made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information
in this guide at the time of going to press and assumes no
responsibility for unforeseen changes, errors, poor service,
disappointing food or terrible hangovers.
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8
Krakw In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
LAS WOLSKI
Despite the density of visitors to Krakw since the budget
airline boom, its still incredibly easy to derail yourself from
the tourist trail. One of Krakws best diversions is Las Wolski
(Wolski Forest) - a massive protected woodland atop several
hills that majestically tower over the city centre a mere 8km to
the west ( just beyond Salwator and Kociuszko Mound). The
forests close proximity and easy access make it one of the
best recreational areas available to Cracovians; Las Wolskis
422 hectares (1042 acres) include eight marked hiking trails
(total length 35km/22 miles), a cycling path, horse-riding
trail and cross-country skiing route. In addition to being an
important local recreational enclave and wildlife habitat for
deer, badgers, hares, foxes and other critters, the forest also
shelters several tourist destinations, including the Krakw
Zoo, Pilsudski Mound and the mysterious Camaldolese
Monastery atop Srebrna Gra (Silver Mountain).
Krakw Zoo ul. Kasy Oszczdnoci Miasta Krakowa 14
(Krowodrza), tel. (+48) 12 425 35 51, www.zoo-krakow.
pl. First opened in 1929, this lovely zoological garden has
grown from a small menagerie to a 20 hectare park offering
visitors the chance to see nearly 1500 animals of almost
300 species, but still manageable in size. Most of the exhibits
are outdoors in the natural setting of the surrounding Wolski
Forest - making this a great sunny day activity - and theres
surprisingly little to get depressed about. Among the rare,
exotic and endangered species youll see are Indian elephants,
pygmy hippopotami, South American sea lions, camels, dwarf
caimans and a surprisingly impressive array of brightly-plumed
pheasants (our favourite). Theres also a petting zoo, snack
bar for when youre hungry and ice cream vendors so your kids
have something totally unnecessary to nag you about. Bus
134 leaves from Stadion Cracovia (ul. Kauy, H-3) and drops
you off at the entrance. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Last entrance
1 hour before closing. Admission 18/10z.
Pisudski Mound (Kopiec Pisudkiego) Al. do Kop-
ca (Wolski Forest). Man-made earthwork burial mounds
were already an established Cracovian tradition by the 20th
century (see Krakus Mound, Kociuszko Mound), and talk of
building one in honour of Polands inter-war hero and leader
Jzef Pisudski was underway even before his death in 1935.
By 1937 it was complete, and though the Nazis had it slated
for demolition and the communists even got the tanks out to
pull down the huge granite cross that once stood at its peak,
Pisudski Mound still stands today as an enduring and sacred
symbol of Polish independence. About a 25 minute walk north
from the Zoo on the red trail, this is the highest point in Las
Wolski; the panoramic views from the top are excellent and
on a clear day the Tatra Mountains are visible to the south.
Camaldolese Monastery Al. Konarowa 1, tel. (+48)
12 429 76 10, www.kameduli.info. Those looking to get
well off the tourist trail might consider a spiritual journey to
Las Wolskis mysterious and discreetly secluded Camaldo-
lese Monastery (Klasztor Kameduw), otherwise known as
the Silver Mountain Hermitage. Here the Camaldolites - part
of the Benedictine family of monastic orders - have lived in
peace and obscurity since their founder Mikoaj Wolski (after
whom the entire forest is now named) arrived from Italy
and wangled the land from Sebastian Lubomirski in 1604.
Damaged by fire and rebuilt in 1814, this large, walled, white
limestone architectural complex is today one of the finest
representations of late-Baroque style in Europe.
The hermetic lives of the Camaldolites arouse a great amount
of curiosity and speculation from those beyond the wall due
to their secrecy and seclusion. Clad in hooded white robes
and bushy beards, the monks follow the severe self-imposed
principles Ora et labora (Pray and work) and Memento
Mori (Remember you must die), abstain from speaking
unless absolutely necessary and only encounter each other
during certain prayer times. Short verbal exchanges are
allowed three times a week, while contact with the world
beyond the monastery is only allowed five days a year. Be-
tween prayer and work, simple vegetarian meals are eaten
in the solitude of each monks small hermitage, where one
of the only aspects of dcor is the skull of his predecessor.
An extremely isolated, strict and devout order, there are
presently less than 60 Camaldolese monks in the world, of
which 9 live in Las Wolski.
While the compound is founded on isolationism, it is pos-
sible for men to gain entrance to the monastery daily from
08:00 - 11:00 and 15:00 - 16:30. Women, on the other hand,
are only permitted 12 days a year, three of which are dates
in May: Constitution Day (May 3rd), Pentecost Sunday and
Monday (May 19th, 20th). Although access to the grounds
is limited, the main church - featuring two 50m towers, eight
ornate Baroque chapels, an impressive main altar and creepy
underground crypts (crypts accessible to men only) - and
its immediate surroundings are open at the specified times
and well worth a look if youre patient enough to get inside.
To do so involves bravely pulling an iron ring attached to a
long chain and waiting an indeterminable amount of time for
one of the monks to silently open the large wooden doors of
the main gate, before vanishing again like a cloud of vapour.
A truly spell-binding and spiritual place, the monasterys
legend grew when Italian football coach Cesare Prandelli
and his staff made a 21km pilgrimage here from their Old
Town hotel on foot, setting off at 03:00 in the morning and
arriving for morning mass, after qualifying for the knockout
phase of EURO 2012.
The sanctuary can be more easily reached by taking any
westbound bus except number 100 from the Salwator tram
roundabout to the bottom of Srebrna Gra (Silver Mountain);
its then a steep 200 metre walk uphill on the red trail to the
monastery. Even easier is taking bus 134 from the Cracovia
Stadium (ul. Kauy, H-3) to the Zoo and from there its about
a 20 minute walk south following the red trail (to the left if
facing the zoo entrance).
Car access to Las Wolski is restricted, so even if you
have a vehicle its more sensible to take the bus. Bus
number 134 leaves from Stadion Cracovia (ul. Kauy,
H-3) near the Bonia and takes passengers directly to
the Zoo at the very centre of the forest. Here youll find a
map of all the trails in the area, the most popular of which
is the red trail which leads north to Pisudski Mound, and
south to the Camaldolese Monastery. Take a look at the
timetables at the bus stop to make sure you know what
time you need to catch your return into town; youll have
to come back to this spot to do so.
Getting There
Pawel Krzan, krzan.pl, krakow4u.pl
11
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
April - May 2013 krakow.inyourpocket.com
10
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
By Train
Main Train Station (Dworzec Gwny) E-1, Pl.
Jana Nowaka - Jezioraskiego 1, tel. (+48) 22 39 19
757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.rozklad.pkp.
pl. Krakws main railway station, Dworzec Gwny, is
conveniently situated at the northern edge of the Old Town,
making taxis and trams largely unnecessary for those with
accommodation in the Old Town. Not so convenient are the
ongoing renovation works - part of a plan to transfer the
railway station completely underground and transform it into
a modern transportation hub incorporating the bus station
as well. To date, all of the platforms have been modernised
and are open, however work on other areas of the station,
including one of the tunnels, are ongoing. Travellers should
anticipate some minor confusion and inconvenience until
all the work is finished, which from what weve heard wont
happen sooner than December 2013.
Upon disembarking your train, youll be herded underground
into a newly modernised tunnel, which slyly leads straight into
the neighbouring Galeria Krakowska shopping mall; head up
the stairs before the entrance to avoid getting lost in the mall.
With no facilities available in the tunnel, head down the path
alongside the tracks to the original main hall where youll find
an ATM (bankomat), currency exchange booth (kantor), and
left luggage lockers.
Stepping out onto the square in front of the train stations
main hall youll see Galeria Krakowska to your right, a bus
and tram stop ahead and to the left (on ul. Lubicz) and a taxi
rank straight ahead on ul. Pawia. It is less than a ten minute
walk to Rynek Gwny (the market square) from the train sta-
tion, arguably the dreamiest entrance into any city in Europe
and highly recommended for anyone who has just arrived.
Crossing the plaza in front of the train station to the Andels
Hotel and following the crowds through the underpass to the
other side puts you officially in the Old Town, home to the
majority of Krakws hostels, hotels and nightlife; bear right,
make a left on Floriaska Street and youre on the path of
kings to the market square. Youve arrived.
Now how to escape: Station departure boards (odjazdy)
are indicated by their yellow timetables; arrivals boards
(przyjazdy) are the white ones. Check the timetables online
at the Polish railways website - rozklad.pkp.pl - which has
limited but effective English language functionality. If you
want a seat on a particular train it is best to book ahead. If
in a rush, tickets can also be bought on board the train from
the conductor, but expect a surcharge. [Note that tickets for
the shuttle service to Krakw Balice airport, which runs every
30 minutes, can be purchased from machines on platform
1, or on-board the train for no extra fee.]
The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run several types
of train, which basically determine the length of the journey,
its comfort and cost. Express InterCity (EIC) and Express
(EX) trains are the fastest and most expensive, giving you an
assigned seat for the extra money. EuroCity (EC) trains offer
international connections and require the paid premium for
seat reservation as well. Cheapskates looking to cut costs
should opt for the markedly cheaper Twoje Linie Kolejowe
(TLK), which offer second class compartments free of reser-
vation fees (though you may end up sitting in the aisle), and
InterREGIO (IR) trains which have no seat reservation fees.
With these budget options you pay less, but the journey will
take longer and may try your good humour with the potential
for overcrowding and being forced to sit of stand in the aisle.
Q Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat
reservations cannot be made from 00:00 to 01:30.
in the country until the bottleneck begins outside Krakw
near Wieliczka. Driving around the city is incredibly frustrat-
ing with constant roadwork being done, one-way streets
and seemingly available streets requiring a permit to drive
down: violate this rule and the chances of getting a fine are
incredibly high, whether youve realised your infraction or not.
Krakws road network is not at all adequate for the volume
of cars on its roads and parking is yet another challenge.
To say nothing of horse-drawn carriages full of tourists and
trams, the lack of bicycle paths in the city centre also means
sharing the street with unwieldy bicycles above the laws of
the road, and the fact that theyre getting from point A to B
twice as fast as you is yet another smack in the face. Put it all
together and we recommend you ditch your vehicle in favour
of public transportation at the first opportunity. Car crime is
not unheard of and youll be safest leaving your ride in one
of the guarded parking lots listed below. Street parking is
available under the large parking signs on the sidewalk and
youll have to buy a pass from the neon-bibbed warden patrol-
ling the area, though parking machines have now replaced
them in many areas. The cost of street parking is 3z for the
first hour, 3.50z for the second, 4.10 for the third, and after
that back to 3z. Areas where parking is available are also
marked on the map in the back of this guide.
Parking Przy Teatrze Pl. witego Ducha 1 (en-
trance from ul. Szpitalna), tel. (+48) 883 99 99 54.
Krakws most exclusive parking lot, located right next to
the Sowacki Theatre, supervised 24 hours.
By Plane
Krakw Airport ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, tel.
(+48) 12 295 58 00, www.krakowairport.pl. Some
17km west of the city centre, Krakw Airport is small,
modern and easy to navigate, though amenities are limited.
Consisting of two small terminals, the domestic terminal
offers little more than a pricey cafe, newsstand and ATM
(bankomat), whereas in the international terminal youll find
currency exchange, ATMs (bankomat), a cafe, restaurant,
tourist information point (open 09:00 - 19:00), and 24hr
lockers (9z). Getting through check-in and security is a
snap, the only hassle of the airport being that you have to
walk around its entire perimeter to get from one terminal
to the other (great design job there, boys).
The best way to get to the airport from the Old Town, and
vice versa, is generally by train. A free shuttle bus runs
regularly between the international and domestic terminals,
picking passengers up directly outside the entrance and tak-
ing them the short distance to the Krakw Airport train stop
(coordinated with the train times). Train tickets are purchased
from the conductor on board the train, and now cost 12z one
way. If leaving from Krakw Gowny train station, departures
(odjazdy) to the Airport are frequent from Track 1; buy your
ticket from machines on the platform or on board for no extra
fee. Trains from the airport run frequently between 06:00 and
23:00 with a journey time of about 15-20mins.
Public bus numbers 292 and 208 also depart from beside
the International terminal entrance. This is a much cheaper
option, though the journey to the train station takes about 35-
40mins. Night bus 902 makes the same trip with departures
at 23:25, 00:21, 01:21, 02:21, 03:21 and 03:55.
The airport now also has its own trusted Krakow Airport Taxi
service with vehicles waiting outside the terminal entrances.
The advantages are a set price of 69z from the airport to
the Old Town, with no monkey business and no night time
price hikes. Solid.
By Bus
Krakw Bus Station (Dworzec autobusowy) E-1,
ul. Bosacka 18, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 40, www.rda.kra-
kow.pl. International buses arrive and depart from the bus
terminal (Dworzec Autobusowy, ul. Bosacka 18, E-1) behind
the train station. Here youll find a snack bar, restaurant,
exchange bureau (kantor), ATM (bankomat) and information
point (open 07:00-20:00). Lockers for left luggage cost 6-14z
(depending on size) for 24 hours, however are unavailable
when the main hall is closed between 23:00 and 06:00.
During this time there is a separate night time waiting room
(closed 05:00 - 06:00 only).
Tunnels connect the bus and train stations. Still the best
way to get into town, with or without getting lost, is to make
a right from the bus station into the train station, walk past
the platforms and follow the stairs or ramp to the left back
into daylight (beware getting sucked into the shopping mall).
Cut through the main ticket hall of the train station, cross the
square in front of Galeria Krakowska and take the underpass
into the Planty. Congrats, youre in the Old Town.
Bus is your best option for travel to Zakopane and the Tatra
Mountains, with frequent departures for the two hour journey.
These are proper coaches and leave from the upper level
with tickets available from the ticket office inside the bus
station. For exact travel times check www.rda.krakow.pl
which is now in English.
Mini-bus is actually your best option for getting to some des-
tinations like Wieliczka and Niepoomice. Many mini-buses
leave from the lot across from Galeria Krakowska at the
corner of ul. Pawia and ul. Worcella (D-2), a short walk from
the main bus station. Q Ticket Office open 07:00 - 20:00.
By Car
Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road fatalities,
a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road
surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traf-
fic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in the
common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. While
the road quality issue is being slowly addressed with EU direc-
tives and funding, the countrys clueless drivers are a trickier
fix to be sure. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from
the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed.
The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities
(60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside ur-
ban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr
on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched
on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit,
replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper
registration and insurance documents. Poland also has
strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2 is the maximum blood/
alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU
citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they
are valid, however citizens of countries that didnt ratify the
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find
their licences invalid (though that hasnt stopped anyone we
know from driving their girlfriends car). Carry your licence and
passport at all times when driving.
With that out of the way, how to get here? For the time be-
ing theres only one major highway leading into Krakw via
Katowice, the A4, and its smooth asphalt doesnt come free.
An 9z toll is paid when you enter and again when you exit
the motorway. Still, its one of the best stretches of road
The work of architect Peter Rosenbaum - who would go on
to design Wrocaws immaculate station ten years later
- the main hall was built between 1844 and 1846, with
neo-renaissance decorations like turrets and crenella-
tions whimsically added to the exterior. Over the following
decades it would be extensively re-modelled, with bits
and pieces knocked down and added at the drop of a
hat. A bridge over ul. Lubicz designed by Teodor Talowski
was built in 1898, and a spate of tunnels and platforms
were added in the immediate years before and after. In
spite of extensive modernisation in the 1920s - which
included the creation of a water tower, printing house
and residential estate for railway workers - plans were
drawn up in 1934 to relocate the train station - albeit
by only 300 metres.
Under Nazi occupation the future of the station again fell
under threat, with plans to build a new one in the govern-
ment quarter located across the river in Dbniki. Even
after the Nazis were vanquished the train station could
not breathe easy; in keeping with the decentralisation
policy of communist planning, sketches were drawn up
to build a primary station next to Rondo Mogilska, an
area that the authorities wanted to develop in a bid to
outshine the decadent Old Town. Fortunately cash is king
and the commies had run out of it; the only sign of their
grandiose plan today is the half finished NOT building,
lovingly referred to by locals as Szkieletor. The years
since the Soviet-era ended have hardly granted Krakws
train station any peace either, however the changes
have largely been met positively as the area received
a thorough clean-up after years of neglect, and a new
plaza next to the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall now
represent Krakws main gateway into the city.
Presently the subject of a 63 million PLN investment
to create a brand new transportation hub connecting
the train, bus, airport shuttle and local tram services
underground, Krakws train station is set to receive
a new, modernised 12,000m2 ticket hall, as well as
new waiting areas, a cafe, restaurants and passenger
service points such as tourist information. The new
transportation hub will be fully accessible to the disabled
and is pencilled in for full completion no sooner than
December 2013, though that date is highly optimistic. In
the meantime, only one of the platform access tunnels
is open (so expect some confusion) and the old station
building appears to be headed towards redundancy and
the sales rack. However, lovers of the historical building
need not fret just yet. The local government is in talks to
take over the classic Rosenbaum building from the train
company and convert it into a gallery. Heres hoping its
put to good use.
Station History
Wikipedia/Axe
12
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
13
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Krakw In Your Pocket April - May 2013 krakow.inyourpocket.com krakow.inyourpocket.com
Car Rental
All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid
foreign license or international driving permit. [Be aware,
however, that citizens from countries that didnt ratify the
Vienna Convention (America, Australia) cannot legally drive
on their licenses and run the risk of hassle from the police.]
Enjoy cruising the EU, but dont try leaving it in a rental car;
ie Ukraine is off-limits (sad face).
Acecar C- 3, ul. Bracka 8/1a, tel. (+48) 508 13 36
51, www.acecar.pl. Large sel ection of cars. Competi -
ti ve pri ces. Insurance and unlimi ted mil eage included in
rental pri ce. Fri endl y, rel i abl e servi ce. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00.
Dragon-VIP J-4, ul. Rejtana 7, tel. (+48) 509 58 88 60,
www.dragonvip.pl. A wide choice of vehicles from small cars
like the Peugeot 207, through mid-size like the Peugeot 308 to
more exclusive vehicles. It is also possible to hire a car with a
driver. Delivery and collection of cars in Krakw is free. GPS is
also available free of charge with some cars. Q Open 09:00 -
17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Outside of these hours on request.
Hertz H-3, Al. Focha 1, tel. (+48) 12 429 62 62,
www.hertz.com.pl. Al so at Krakw Ai rpor t, tel . 12
285 50 84. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun.
Sixt ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 12
639 32 16, www.sixt.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
Eu r o p ca r J - 4, u l .
Nadwilaska 6 (Qubus
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 374
56 96, www.europcar.pl. Offering both short and
long term rental options with 9 different categories of
car available for your individual needs. Excellence in
service with benefits tailored to your specific require-
ments. Europcar is present at all Polish airports including
Krakw-Balice, tel. 12 257 79 00. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. Outside of these hours open on request.
J o k a D - 2 , u l .
Zaci s z e 7 (3r d
floor, room 7), tel.
(+48) 601 54 53
68, www.joka.com.pl. A wide range of cars including
Opel Astra 3, BMW, Subarus up to the spacious Mer-
cedes E220 CDi station wagon. All cars are equipped
with power steering. Satellite navigation systems are
also available. Special rates offered to those who order
through the Joka website. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat
09:00 - 12:00. Outside of these hours on request.
While Krakow has no underground metro system it does
have an integrated bus and tram system which runs
from 05:00-23:00, with night buses continuing less
frequently after that. Get tickets from the handy ticket
machines (also in English) at major stops, on-board
most trams and buses, or from the driver immediately
on boarding if there is no ticket machine. Note that the
ticket machines on board trams and buses do not ac-
cept bills, so it is important to have some change handy.
Tickets are the same for trams and buses, and are timed,
allowing you to change between tram or bus lines within
the alloted time. A standard fare is good for 20mins at a
cost of 2.80z. By our estimation, this is about the time it
should take to go 5-8 stops, depending on traffic. If youre
going a longer distance outside the centre (Nowa Huta,
for example), we recommend you purchase a 40min
ticket for 3.80z. 1-hour, 24-hour, 48-hour, 72-hour,
and unlimited weekend family passes for 15.00z are
also options, or consider the Krakw Tourist Card (see
Basics), which includes unlimited free travel on trams and
buses amongst its benefits. Note that ISIC and Euro26
Student cards are valid for transport ticket discounts,
but you must carry your ID and be under 26.
Most importantly, you must stamp your ticket immedi-
ately on boarding the tram or bus in the small machines
on-board, even i f you bought your ticket on-board.
Beware that sneaky plain-clothed inspectors regularly
travel on the lines handing out costly fines to those
without valid or proper tickets.
MPK (Krakow City Transport) ul. w. Wawrzyca
13, tel. (+48) 12 191 50, www.mpk.krakow.pl. Use
this website to find local bus schedules.
Public Transport
Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are
reliable and use their metres without any fiddling around,
but beware of the cowboys sometimes waiting outside
the train station and some clubs. Make sure you choose
a clearly marked cab with a company name and phone
number displayed and a sticker demarcating prices in
the window. Taxis are now legally obliged to give you a
printed receipt at journeys end further limiting the likeli-
hood of any funny business. There is a taxi rank across
the square from the main train station on ul. Pawia (D-2)
or walk up the stairs from the platforms to find reliable
Radio Taxi 919 on the rooftop parking lot. Expect to pay
7z plus about 2.30z per kilometre. At night expect to
pay up to 50% more for the pleasure. Whether or not to
tip your taxi driver is a bit of a point of contention. Many
Poles do not consider taxis a service that necessitates
a tip and thereby, i f youre Polish, the driver may not
expect one. But double standards being what they are,
its anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which
case 10% is appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill.
We leave it to you.
Barbakan Taxi, tel. (+48) 12 196 61,
www.taxi.barbakan.krakow.pl.
Euro Taxi, tel. (+48) 12 196 64.
Mega Taxi, tel. (+48) 12 196 25, www.megataxi.eu.
Radio Taxi 919, tel. (+48) 12 191 91,
www.radiotaxi919.pl.
Taxis
Avis J-2, ul. Lubicz 23,
tel. (+48) 601 20 07 02,
www.avis.pl. I nternati on-
ally trusted service offering a
range a vehicles from the Nissan Micra to luxury mini-
vans. Located here near the train station and also at the
airport (ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, open 08:00 - 22:00).
Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
9
8
15
BASICS
14
BASICS
Law & Order
In general Krakw is far safer than most Western cities,
and visitors are unlikely to face any problems i f they simply
employ common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travel-
lers should be on guard against pickpockets; i f youre in
a bar or restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser
pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those
travelling by car are advised to use the guarded car parks
we list in Arrival & Transport. Perhaps the biggest danger
in Krakw is posed by groups of drunken football hooligans
who can be easily avoided and heard coming a mile away.
Finally, foreign men should be suspicious of young women
who take an overactive interest in them and suggest go-
ing to some dodgy nightclub not in this guide where they
stand the chance of being intimidated into paying for vastly
inflated drink charges by thuggish bouncers; unfortunately,
it happens.
Staying safe and on the right side of the law is signi ficantly
easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka
are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. I f youre determined
to make an idiot of yoursel f then make sure its not in
front of the law. Since the budget airline boom, plenty of
geniuses - from those in Chewbacca costumes to com-
plete prats whove thought it perfectly acceptable to drop
their trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain - have
tested the patience of local law enforcement, which is now
decidedly low so dont push your luck. Those who do may
well be treated to a trip to Krakws premier drunk tank
on ul. Rozrywka (which literally translates as Entertain-
ment Street), where you can expect a strip search, a set
of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling
vagrants. Not to mention a hefty fine (credit cards not
accepted, of course).
Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops are by riding
public transport without a ticket (see Arrival & Transport,
Public Transport) and, silly as it seems, by jaywalking. If you
are from a country which doesnt have or respect jaywalking
laws, youll be surprised to see crowds of people standing
obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to change. The
reason for obeying this little rule is the fact that the local city
police (Stra Miejska) will quite freely give you a 50-100z fine
for crossing a road at a place where no crossing is marked or
a 100z fine when the walk light is red. And dont think you
are exempt by being a foreign visitor. You too are subject to
the law and your non-residency means you will be forced to
pay the fine on the spot.
Customs
If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take
10 litres of spirits, 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer.
Most countries will not allow more than 800 cigarettes from
Poland. If purchasing art or books, you need to consider their
age and value. In order to leave the country, art must be both
less than 50 years old and under a certain value (varies
depending by type; photos 6,000z, other art 16,000z, for
example); if these conditions are met, the gallery curator
then can (and should) provide you with a zawiadczenie
(permission document) describing the artworks price and
when and where it was created. If the work exceeds the
permitted age or value, you must get permission from the
Wojewdzki Konserwator Zabytkw (Regional Curators Of-
fice) to take it out of Poland; bear in mind that this process will
likely take 2-3 months. Books must be less than 100 years
old and under 6,000z in value in order to leave the country;
otherwise, permission must be obtained from the National
Library. Obviously, problems arise when purchases are made
at bazaars or flea markets where vendors cannot provide the
necessary documents; if there is any doubt about the value
or age of your purchase, we suggest you visit an Antykwariat
(antiques dealer - see shopping) for advice.
Electricity
Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round
with two round-pin sockets. Therefore i f you are coming
from the US, UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a
plug converter. The best place to pick these up is at home
though if you do arrive without a converter try your luck with
your hotel reception; they should be able to point you to an
electrical store if they cant provide a converter themselves.
Health & Emergency
In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or
public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for
an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the
police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded
to the relevant department. English speaking assistance
is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic
capabilities of the operator.
Between June 1st and September 30th however, English,
German and Russian speakers have the option of using a
separate line specifically designed for foreigners in distress:
dial 800 200 300 from a land-line or 608 599 999 from a
mobile phone for troubles during high-tourist season.
If youve woken up to find youve got a raging headache, a
swollen foot you cant put weight on and vague memories of
some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by calling
a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously
long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clinics can
be found in the Directory in the back of this guide. Further
help can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list
of which can also be found in the Directory. If its a financial
emergency your hopes will rest on a Western Union money
transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus (kantors)
can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out
for the Western Union logo.
Internet
Internet access is typically free and widely available in Poland,
with practically every caf and restaurant offering wi-fi to
customers with laptops and smartphones. Getting on the
network often requires nothing more than a password, which
you can request of your favourite bartender or barista with
a simple, Poprosz o haso do internetu? If you dont have
your own gadgets we offer a few Internet cafe options below.
Czarny Florian D-6, ul. Dietla 69, tel. (+48) 12 397
80 45, www.czarnyflorian.pl. Six PCs complete with ev-
erything you need to keep in touch, plus printing and postal
services. QOpen 09:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Computer use 5z/hr.
Nandu B-3, ul. Wilna 4, tel. (+48) 12 421 03 26, www.
nandu.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. 5z
for first hour, 4z per hour thereafter. Printing and cd-burning
available.
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers
and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders
the Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely
Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany
(467km), Lithuania (103km), the mysterious Russian
exclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Slovakia (539km) and
Ukraine (529km).
Longest River
Krakw is split by the river Vistula (Wisa). At 1,047km
it is Polands longest river, flowing through Warsaw and
into the Bay of Gdask (Zatoka Gdaska).
Highest Point
The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra
Mountains. In comparison Krakws landscape is flat
and the city lies 219m above sea level.
Population (2011)
Poland: 38,538,447
Warsaw: 1,708,491
Krakw: 759,137
d: 728,892
Wrocaw: 631,235
Pozna: 554,696
Gdask: 460,517
Katowice: 310,764
Local Time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When its 12:00 in Krakw its 6:00 am in New
York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and
19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts
and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.
Facts & Figures
The enterprising tourist should
consider picking up the Krakw
Tourist Card, a superb piece of
plastic that allows you free travel
on trams and buses, day and
night. The best bit is free entry
to over 30 Krakw museums - an impressive savings for
the serious tourist. Two and three day cards are avail-
able, priced at 60z and 80z respectively and they are
valid until midnight on the day indicated on the reverse.
Every venue listed in our guide which accepts the Krakw
Tourist Card has been marked with a Tourist Card symbol.
Available at all tourist information offices, for a full list
of vendors and benefits visit www.krakowcard.com.
Tourist Card
Pri ces i n Poland are still fai rl y competi ti ve despi te
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices.
Market values as of March 19, 2013
based on 1 = 4.11z
Product Price (z) Price ()
McDonald's Big Mac 8.70 z 2.12
Snickers 1.59 z 0.39
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 22.99 z 5.59
0.5ltr beer (shop) 3.49 z 0.85
0.5ltr beer (bar) 9.00 z 2.19
Loaf of white bread 2.19 z 0.53
20 Marlboros 13.60 z 3.31
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.62 z 1.37
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 3.80 z 0.92
Market Values
Many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy
command of the English language. Many are also
adept at other European languages with German being
the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fiercely
contest that they have forgotten the Russian taught
to them at school but most will still have a reasonable
understanding.
Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal,
often resulting in personal degradation as shop
assistants laugh at your flustered attempts. That aside,
learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in
Krakw and may even win you friends and admirers.
On the downside, Polish is one of the most difficult
languages for native English speakers to learn. On the
upside, unlike in English, words in Polish are spelled
the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once
you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of
letters. While many letters represent the same sounds
as they do in English, below we have listed those
particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and
phrases. Powodzenia (good luck)!
Basic Pronunciation:
sounds like on in the French bon
sounds like en as in the French bien
is an open o sound like oo in boot
c like the ts in bits
j like the y in yeah
w is pronounced like the English v
like the w in win
like the ny in canyon
cz and like the ch in beach
dz like the ds in beds
rz and like the su in treasure
sz and like the sh in ship
drz like the g in George
r is always rolled
Yes Tak (Tahk)
No Nie (Nyeh)
Hi/Bye (informal) Cze (Cheshch)
Hello/Good day
(formal)
Dzie dobry (Jen doh-bri)
Good evening
(formal)
Dobry wieczr (Doh-bri vyeh-choor)
Good-bye Do widzenia (Doh veet-zen-ya)
Good Night Dobranoc (Doh-brah-noats)
Please Prosz (Prosheh)
Thank you Dzikuj (Jen-koo-yeh)
Excuse me/Sorry Przepraszam (Psheh-prasham)

My name is... Mam na imi... (Mam nah ee-myeh)
Im from England. Jestem z Anglii (Yehstem zanglee)
Do you speak
English?
Czy mwisz po
angielsku?
(Che moo-veesh po
an-gyel-skoo?)
I dont speak
Polish.
Nie mwi po
polsku.
(Nyeh moo-vyeh po
pol-skoo.)
I dont understand. Nie rozumiem. (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)
Two beers, please. Dwa piwa prosz. (Dvah peevah prosheh.)
Cheers! Na zdrowie! (Nah zdrovyeh!)
Where are the
toilets?
Gdzie s toalety? (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)
You are beauti ful. Jeste pikna. (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)
I love you. Kocham ci. (Ko-hahm chuh.)
Please take me
home.
Prosz zabierz mnie
do domu.
(Prosheh za-byesh
mnyeh doh doh-moo.)
Call me! Zadzwo do mnie! (Zads-dvoan doh
mnyeh!)
Airport Lotnisko (Lot-nees-ko)
Train station Dworzec PKP (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)
Bus station Dworzec PKS (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah
Ess)
One ticket to Jeden bilet do (Yeh-den bee-let doh)
Language Smarts
16
CULTURE & EVENTS
Cinemas
ARS Cinema C-3, ul. w. Tomasza 11, tel. (+48) 12
421 41 99, www.ars.pl.QBox office open from 30 min-
utes before the first showtime to 30 minutes after the last
showtime. Tickets 12-20z.
Cinema City J-3, ul. Podgrska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz),
tel. (+48) 12 254 54 54, www.cinema-city.pl.QBox of-
fice open 09:15 - 22:45. Tickets 16-32z.
Cinema City Plaza L-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12
290 90 90, www.cinema-city.pl.QBox office open 30
minutes before the first shotime to 15 minutes after last
showtime. Tickets 14-30z.
IMAX Krakw L-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12 290
90 90, www.kinoimax.pl.QBox office open 30 minutes
before the first shotime to 15 minutes after last showtime.
Tickets 18-30z.
Kijw.Centrum H-3, Al. Krasiskiego 34, tel. (+48)
12 433 00 33, www.kijow.pl.QBox of fi ce open 30
minutes before the first showtime until the last showtime.
Tickets 12-25z.
Kino Agrafka C-1, ul. Krowoderska 8, tel. (+48) 12
430 01 79, www.kinoagrafka.pl.QBox office open from
30 minutes before the first showtime until the last showtime.
Tickets 10-18z.
Kino Paradox A- 3, ul. Krupnicza 38, tel. (+48)
12 430 00 15 ext. 211, www.ki noparadox.pl .
Q Box of fi ce open 30 mi nutes before the showti me.
Ti ckets 10z.
Ki no Pauza C- 2, ul . Fl or i aska 18/5 (2nd
f l oor), tel. (+48) 606 88 83 80, www.ki nopauza.
pl .QBox of f i ce open hal f hour before showt i me.
Ti ckets 0-17z.
Kino Pod Baranami C-3, Rynek Gwny 27, tel. (+48)
12 423 07 68, www.kinopodbaranami.pl.QBox office
open 45 minutes before first showtime to 15 minutes after
last showtime. Tickets 12-22z.
Cultural Centres
British Council C-3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel. (+48) 12
428 59 30, www.britishcouncil.pl.QOpen 08:30 - 19:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Cervantes Institute C-5, ul. Kanonicza 12, tel.
(+48) 12 421 32 55, cracovia.cervantes.es.QOpen
09:30 - 19:30, Fri 09:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Library
open 12:00 - 15:00, 16:30 - 19:45, Tue, Wed 09:30 - 13:00,
15:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:30 - 14:00 and every last Sat of the
month 10:30 - 13:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Goethe Institute (Instytut Goethego) C-3, Rynek
Gwny 20, tel. (+48) 12 422 69 02, www.goethe.de/
krakau.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Library open 11:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 18:00.
Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.
Jewish Community Centre (Centrum Spoecznoci
ydowskiej w Krakowie) D-6, ul. Miodowa 24, tel.
(+48) 12 370 57 70, www.jcckrakow.org.QOpen 10:00
- 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Judai ca Foundati on (Fundacj a Judai ca)
D- 6, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 49,
www.judaica.pl. QOpen 10: 00 - 20: 00, Sat, Sun
10: 00 - 14: 00.
Manggha B-6, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267
27 03, www.manggha.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 15/10z, family ticket 25z, group ticket 60z,
Tue free. Guided tours 100z.
Rotunda (Centrum Kultury Rotunda) H-3, ul. Olean-
dry 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 65 16, www.rotunda.pl.QBox
office open 16:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun depending on repertoire.
Tickets depending on repertoire.
THE EXHIBIT THAT WILL CHANGE YOUR LIFE
ALSO IN GDASK FROM MAY 2
ND
18
CULTURE & EVENTS
19
CULTURE & EVENTS
Galleries
Art Space C-3, ul. w. Marka 22, tel. (+48) 607 68
70 85, www.asgallery.pl.Q Open 13:30 - 19:00, Sat, Sun
11:30 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Bunkier Sztuki B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 3a, tel. (+48) 12
422 10 52, www.bunkier.art.pl.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/5z.
International Cultural Centre (Midzynarodowe
Centrum Kultury) C-3, Rynek Gwny 25, tel. (+48)
12 424 28 00, www.mck.krakow.pl.QOpen from April 26
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/6z.
Jan Fejkiel Gallery C-2, ul. Sawkowska 14, tel. (+48)
12 429 15 53, www.fejkielgallery.com.QOpen 11:00
- 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
Pauza Gallery (Galeria Pauza) C-2, ul. Floriaska
18/5 (2nd floor), tel. (+48) 12 422 48 66, www.galeria-
pauza.pl.QOpen 15:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Polonia House (Wsplnota Polska) C-3, Rynek
Gwny 14, tel. (+48) 12 422 43 55, www.swp.krakow.
pl.QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Admission free.
Poster Gallery (Galeria Plakatu) C-3, ul. Stolarska
8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 26 40, www.cracowpostergal-
lery.com.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sun Admission free.
Space Gallery B-2, ul. w. Marka 7, tel. (+48) 12 432
29 20, www.spacegallery.com.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 18:30,
Sat 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Admission free.
Starmach Gallery J-4, ul. Wgierska 5, tel. (+48) 12
656 43 17, www.starmach.eu.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Opera Stages
Krakw Opera (Opera Krakowska) E-2, ul. Lubicz
48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 62, www.opera.krakow.pl.Q
Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun two hours before the
performance. Tickets 15-140z.
Philharmonic Stages
Krakw Philharmonic (Filharmonia Krakowska)
B-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1, tel. (+48) 12 429 13 45, www.
filharmonia.krakow.pl.QBox office open 11:00 - 14:00,
15:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 1 hour before performance. Closed
Mon. Tickets 20-40z.
Theatre Stages
Stary Teatr (Narodowy Stary Teatr) C- 3, ul.
Jagielloska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 40 40, www.stary.
pl. Q Box office open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00 and two
hours before the spectacle. Closed Mon. Tickets 15-50z. Y
Teatr Nowy E-7, ul. Gazowa 21, tel. (+48) 12 426 45
06, www.teatrnowy.com.pl. Q Box office open 10:00 -
18:00, Sat, Sun 2 hours before the performance. Closed
Mon. Tickets 30-40z.
Exhibitions
15.02 Friday - 28.04 Sunday
Everything Forever Now - Polish and British
Sustainable Design
K-4, Museum of Contemporary Art, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48)
12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. Evidence of our changing
world, this sustainable design exhibit moves into Krakws
contemporary art museum. As dwindling natural resources
and ballooning energy costs, combined with a world population
that is ever on the rise, force us to re-examine our way of living,
sustainable design has become a major industry. This exhibit
presents projects by Polish and British designers which not only
strive to protect the planet, but look sexy at the same time.
Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance one hour
before closing. Admission 10/5z, family ticket 20z. Tue free.
The Incorruptible Eye - Akumulatory 2 Gallery,
1972 - 1990
K-4, Museum of Contemporary Art, ul. Lipowa 4, tel.
(+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. This interesting
exhibit traces the art, history and influence of Poznas
Akumulatory 2 Gallery, which for 18 years provided an alter-
native, non-commercial exhibition space to artists from all
over the world. From 1972 to 1990, Akumulatory 2 organised
195 art events (exhibits, performances, lectures, concerts,
happenings) in Pozna despite having no institutional support
or backing and no permanent exhibition space. Operating
outside of official art circles and the restrictive status quo
of social realism, Akumulatory 2 became an important and
extremely influential place on the map of artistic Poland. Q
Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance one hour
before closing. Admission 10/5z, family ticket 20z. Tue free.
03.04 Wednesday
Live Playing: Muchy
C-3, Hard Rock Cafe, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48)
12 429 11 55, www.granienazywo.pl. Rock band
hailing from Pozna; the three lads who founded it in
2004 make music inspired by The Smiths, Velvet Un-
derground, and Modest Mouse. To date theyve put out
three albums, the last one being chcecicospowiedziec
(iwannatellyousomethin). Having gained popularity via
the interwebs, theyre considered a trademark of the
noughties in Polish music. Q Concert starts at 20:00.
Tickets 25-35z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl, Empik
Megastore (Rynek Gwny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00)
and before the concert.
10.04 Wednesday
Live Playing: Bielizna
C-3, Hard Rock Cafe, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12
429 11 55, www.granienazywo.pl. Bielizna has been
a big part of the Gdask alternative scene since their
start in 1984. Their first studio album, Taniec lekkich
goryli (Dance of the Light Gorillas), won praise for its
idiosyncratic rhythm and original lyrics relating to realities
of life in communist Poland. They subsequently released
six studio albums and two compilations, going through a
lot of new band members as years went by. Q Concert
starts at 20:00. Tickets 15-25z. Available at www.tick-
etpro.pl, Empik Megastore (Rynek Gwny 5, C-3, open
09:00 - 22:00) and before the concert.
17.04 Wednesday
Live Playing: Kari Amirian
C-3, Hard Rock Cafe, Pl.
Mariacki 9, tel. (+48)
12 429 11 55, www.
granienazywo.pl. Kari
Amirian: young, talented,
r emi ni scent of Lykke
Li, Bat For Lashes, Cat
Power. Her music is deli-
cate and intimate, tender
and feminine. She came
out with her first album,
Daddy Says Im Special
in 2011 (co-produced with
husband Robert Amirian).
Since then, she has per-
formed at festi val s li ke
Opener and Malta and been nominated for a Fryderyk
award. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 30-38z.
Available at www.ticketpro.pl, Empik Megastore (Rynek
Gwny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00) and before the
concert.
24.04 Wednesday
Live Playing: Uniqplan
C-3, Hard Rock Cafe, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12
429 11 55, www.granienazywo.pl. Uniqplan are
a young, young band, all bright-eyed and bushy tailed
and waiting to make their mark on the music industry.
They got their start in 2010 in Warsaw, and are about
to release their very first album, Wilderness, due out
sometime in April/May. Their concert at Hard Rock is free!
See them before they get famous. Q Concert starts at
20:00. Admission free.
Live Playing
City Tourist Information (Punkt Informacji
Miejskiej) C-3, ul. w. Jana 2, tel. (+48) 12 421
77 87, www.karnet.krakow.pl. Helpful people who
can tell you whats going on and who can sell you tickets
as well. Also the publishers of Karnet, a comprehensive
monthly listing of cultural events in Polish and English.
Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. From May open 09:00 - 19:00.
Information & Tickets
W W W . F A B R Y K A Z E S P O L O W . P L
20
CULTURE & EVENTS
21
CULTURE & EVENTS
16.05 Thursday - 19.05 Sunday
Czesaw Miosz Festival
www.milosz365.eu. Czesaw Miosz is another national
treasure - the poet, writer, and translator was awarded the
1980 Nobel Prize in Literature, and is hugely respected and
cherished in his native Poland. Past editions of the Miosz
Festival involved conferences, film screenings, translation
workshops, poetry evenings, and concerts, and you can
expect more of the same this year; the crowd will not be as
homogeneously Polish as you might expect, as the hosts
invite a score of international poets, writers, and scholars
to join in on the action. Q Visit www.milosz365.eu for more
information.
16.05 Thursday - 16.06 Sunday
Krakw Photomonth Festival
www.photomonth.com. This annual month-long event is
one of the largest photography festivals in Europe, and now
in its 11th year. Beginning in mid-May all of the citys best
galleries, cafes, museums, cultural centres, and even more
unique locations like public parks, private flats and post-
industrial spaces, will be filled with dozens of individual and
collective photo exhibitions. Check the website for more,
including the numerous artist meetings, workshops, film
screenings and other events that typically take place during
Photo Month. Q Full schedule available at www.photomonth.
com. Admission free.
Live Music
01.04 Monday - 31.05 Friday
Chopin concerts
C-3, Polonia House, Rynek Gwny 14. Who doesnt
like to listen to a little Chopin while in Poland? Attending a
concert with music by Polands most famous pianist and
national treasure is practically obligatory for anyone with
an interest in classical music. From April until early May,
Polonia House will be hosting concerts twice a week, on
Tuesdays and Thursdays, inviting talented young pianists
to play mazurkas, waltzes, polonaises, and tudes. Q Con-
certs start at 19:00. Tickets 50z. Available at theTourist
Information Centre (ul. w. Jana 2, C-3, open 10:00 - 18:00)
and before the concert.
Philharmonic
25.04 Thursday
Valses de Vienne
B-4, Krakw Philharmonic, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1, tel.
(+48) 12 429 13 45, www.filharmonia.krakow.pl. Jo-
hann Strausss most beautiful Vienna waltzes will be yours
to behold this April, when Budapest Strauss Ballet and Or-
chestra makes an appearance at the Krakw Philharmonic.
Q Performance starts at 19:00. Tickets 120z. Available
at www.ticketpro.pl and Krakw Philharmonic box office
(open 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 1 hour before
performance. Closed Mon).
10.05 Friday
Cracow Horn Quartet - Chamber Concert
B-4, Krakw Philharmonic, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1, tel.
(+48) 12 429 13 45, www.filharmonia.krakow.pl.
These four horn players - Kozowski, Dziewoski, Gumiela,
Tyski - will perform pieces by Mozart, Rimsky-Korsakov,
Bizet, Bozza, and Turner, and own versions of music by Piaz-
zolla, Mancini, and the Beatles. Q Concert starts at 19:30.
Tickets 15-25z. Available at Krakw Philharmonic box office
(open 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 1 hour before
performance. Closed Mon).
12.03 Tuesday - 30.06 Sunday
The Human Body
K-4, Fabryka Club, ul. Zabocie 23, www.human-
body.pl. Fascinating, informative, and a tad bit macabre:
exhibits featuring preserved human bodies have been
increasingly popular in recent years. If youre not too
faint of heart, and up for a spellbinding journey into the
beauty and complexity of human anatomy, the Human
Body Exhibition will be showcasing over 200 thematically
organized organs and bodies. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00.
Admission 50z during the week, 60z on weekends; dis-
counts for students, seniors, children, and the disabled.
Available at www.eventim.pl and the venue.
The Human Body
Chopin Concerts at the Bonerowski Palace
C-3, Bonerowski Palace, ul. w. Jana 1, tel. (+48)
510 32 29 46, www.cracowconcerts.com. Enjoy
the music of Polands greatest composer, Fryderyk
Chopi n, as per formed by pi ani sts Wi tol d Wi l czek,
Weronika Krwka, Dobrchna Krwka, Kazuko Tsuji
and others. Concerts are every day and a glass of
wine is included in the price. Q Concerts start at
19:00. Tickets 55z. Available at the reception desk
of Bonerowski Palace (open 24hrs) and before the
concert.
Classical, Opera, Film & Tango: The Best
Concerts in Cracow
C-3, St. Adalberts Church, Rynek Gwny, tel.
(+48) 510 32 29 46, www.cracowconcerts.com.
The Royal Chamber Orchestra is made up of outstand-
ing musicians, many Krakow Academy of Music alumni.
St Adalberts is said to be the oldest church in Krakow
and, thanks to i ts baroque dome, provides unique
acoustics. Concerts are every day. Q Concerts start
at 19:00. Tickets 65z. Available from 10:00 in front
of the church.
Folk Show
D- 2, Jama Michalika, ul. Floriaska 45, tel.
(+48) 510 32 29 46, www.cracowconcerts.com.
This famous secessionist cafe is a great place to
encounter Polish folk culture during these 90-minute
performances taking place on Wednesdays, Fridays,
Saturdays, and Sundays. Enjoy traditional Polish food
while being entertained by a local orchestra, folk danc-
ers, and the legendary Lajkonik himsel f. Q Event starts
at 19:00. Tickets 85z. Available at Jama Michalika
everyday from 09:00.
Klezmer Music
tel. (+48) 510 32 29 46, www.cracowconcerts.
com. Enjoy Jewish klezmer concerts performed by lo-
cal virtuosos on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays
in Hotel Rubinstein (ul. Szeroka 12, E-6) and Sundays
at the Galicia Jewish Museum (ul. Dajwr 18, E-6). Q
Concerts start at 19:00. Tickets 50z. Available before
the concerts.
Live Music - Cracow Concerts
Utopian Design
K- 4, Museum of Contemporary Art, ul. Lipowa 4,
tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. A gradu-
ate of Poznas Academy of Fi ne Ar ts, Bl amowskis
work wi l l be si mul taneousl y presented i n two gal l eri es
at MOCAK. Here we have a chance to see hi s more
uti l i tari an and decorati ve pi eces: an ecl ecti c bench, a
rosary prayi ng game, an Art Deco newspaper rack and
a framed trophy among them. Al ways surpri si ng and
provocati ve, Bl amowksis trademark i s hi s bastardi sa-
ti on of hi stori cal styl es and per fecti on of craft. Thi s
exhi bi t i s i n concert wi th hi s short fi l ms al so on di spl ay,
but apparentl y al so references the si mul taneous Polish
and Bri ti sh sustai nabl e desi gn exhi bi t at MOCAK. Q
Open 11:00 - 19:00. Cl osed Mon. Last entrance one
hour before cl osi ng. Admi ssi on 10/5z, fami l y ti cket
20z. Tue free.
23.03 Saturday - 09.06 Sunday
Edward Dwurnik. Madness!
H-3, National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12
295 55 00, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. Edward Dwurnik
is one of the most popular and proli fic Polish artists, having
painted nearly 5000 paintings and created around 14,000
works on paper during his artistic career. His work focuses
mostly on realities of li fe in Poland, during communism as
well as after its fall. The exhibition consists of over 150
pieces spanning his entire artistic repertoire. Q Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Tickets
8-13z, family ticket 19z.
Festivals
Off Plus Camera
www.of fpluscamera.com. I ndependent movi es! Un-
derground, cul t masterpi eces! Black Ameri can cinema!
Young filmmakers competing for money and recogni tion!
I f youre a di e-hard fil m fan and happen to be i n Poland
in mi d April, you can t reall y miss Of f Plus Camera. The
festi val will revol ve around Kino Pod Baranami (Rynek
Gwny 27, C-3), but a fai r number of screeni ngs wil l
take place at Kino Ki j w (Al. Krasiski ego 34, H-3) and
vari ous smal l ci nemas. Q Ful l schedul e avai l abl e at
www.of fpl uscamera.com. Ti ckets 15z, festi val pass
180-300z. Ti ckets avai l abl e at www.of fpl uscamera.
com and the Festi val Center (Kino Pod Baranami, Rynek
Gwny 27, C-3).
Main Market Square
EVERY DAY 7:00 PM
22
CULTURE & EVENTS
23
CULTURE & EVENTS
Special Events
06.05 Monday - 12.05 Sunday
Cracow Juwenalia 2013
www.juwenalia.krakow.pl. Juwenalia are an annual holiday
for college students - an age-old tradition, but celebrated with
undying enthusiasm year after year. Since they take place
shortly before final exams, they offer the young and restless a
last chance to let loose and party like theres no tomorrow be-
fore hitting the books. There will be parades, open-air concerts,
performances and binge-drinking; if hordes of cacophonous
and flashily dressed college students arent really your thing,
you might want to get out of the city for a few days. Q Full
schedule and ticket prices were undecided at the moment.
Please check www.juwenalia.krakow.pl for more informations.
17.05 Friday - 18.05 Saturday
Czyynalia
L-1, Museum of Polish Aviation Landing Strip (entrance
from ul. Bora-Komorowskiego). Czyynalia are a Juwenalia
music festival organised by students from the Krakw University
of Technology in the Czyyny district. This year the following art-
ists will be performing at the landing strip: Sabaton, White Lies,
Happysad, Ira, and Oberschlesien on Friday; Within Temptation,
Guano Apes, Jelonek, Luxtorpeda, and Bracia Figo Fagot on
Saturday. Q Concerts start at 17:00. Access to the landing strip
from 16:30. Tickets 69-89z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
Empik Megastore (Rynek Gwny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00).
Night of Museums
www.noc-muzeow.pl. The first Long Night of Museums
took place in Berlin in 1997, and the concept spread through
Europe like wildfire: currently over 120 major European cities
(and many minor ones) organise their own museum nights.
Krakw, with its bounty of museums and cultural institutions,
could be no different; and, thinking of the tourists, the city
decided to hold the event a night early, giving those interested
a chance to attend another one the following day (Warsaw,
maybe?). Inauguration will be at 18:00 on Friday in the Czap-
ski Palace (ul. Pisudskiego 10-12, A-3). Visit the website for
more information. Q Event starts at 18:00. Admission free.
Sport
28.04 Sunday
Cracovia Marathon
G-3, Bonia Meadow, www.cracoviamaraton.pl. Now in
its 12th year, this annual run begins and ends on the Bonia -
Krakws unique and enormous triangle of undeveloped green
space - dashing around the market square, along the river and
all the way out to Nowa Huta and back along its route. If youre
in town on this day, chances are strong that youll see plenty
of skinny legs and short-shorts around the centre.
Theatre
14.04 Sunday - 15.04 Monday
The Musical Biography of Frank Sinatra
D-2, Sowacki Theatre, Pl. w. Ducha 1, www.royalart.com.
pl. The Royal Symphony Orchestra and Bobba Jazz Band will be
performing in this special musical honoring the life and times of
the brilliant singer Frank Sinatra. Therell be plenty of jazz, swing,
film music, and - of course - renditions of Sinatras greatest hits.
Over 100 artists will appear onstage, promising to make the pro-
duction colorful, moving, and truly unforgettable. Q Event starts
at 19:00. Tickets 120-250z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
Sowacki Theatre box office (open 09:00 - 14:00, 14:30 - 19:00;
Mon 10:00 - 14:00, 14:30 - 18:00; Sun depending on repertoire).
Krakw Chamber Opera (Krakowska Opera
Kameralna) E-5, ul. Miodowa 15, tel. (+48) 12
430 66 06, www.kok.art.pl. The beginnings of the
Krakw Chamber Opera can be traced back to 1991
although it didnt find a permanent place it could call
home until 2000 during which time they appeared
around Poland and the world as guest performers.
They have been described by poorly translated critics
as probably the most aesthetic and sophisticated
theatre team in Poland which appreciates good tone
of music, costume and vividness. Q Box office open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun dependi ng on repertoi re.
Tickets 40-120z.
Sleeping Beauty
E-5, Krakw Chamber Opera, ul. Miodowa 15, tel.
(+48) 12 430 66 06, www.kok.art.pl. A musical
fairy tale for both children and adults, based on the
classi c fabl e as tol d by Charl es Perraul t. I ncl udes
music by Tchaikovsky (selected compositions from his
ballet, Sleeping Beauty), Mozart (excerpts from the
opera The Marriage of Figaro) and Edward Zawiliski
(couplets and polonaise). Q Event starts at 18:00.
Tickets 40-80z. Available at Krakw Chamber Opera
box office (open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun depending
on repertoire).
27.04 Saturday
Chatskele, Chatskele!
(+48) 12 430 66 06, www.kok.art.pl. Although tak-
ing place at the Opera, this is more of a musical evening
presenting old Yiddish folk songs in new, original arrange-
ments. The range of the repertoire will be vast, including
love songs, pop songs, wedding songs, religious songs,
lullabies and more. Q Event starts at 19:00. Tickets
40-80z. Available at Krakw Chamber Opera box office
(open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun depending on repertoire).
12.05 Sunday
The Nutcracker and the Mouse King
(+48) 12 430 66 06, www.kok.art.pl. The Krakw
Chamber Opera performs their musical version of the
E.T.A. Hoffmann fairy tale that Tchaikovsky turned into
the most popular ballet in the world. Q Event starts at
18:00. Tickets 40-100z. Available at Krakw Chamber
Opera box office (open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun depend-
ing on repertoire).
Krakw Chamber Opera
Chopin Concerts in the Legendary Wier-
zynek Restaurant
C-3, Wierzynek, Rynek Gwny 15, tel. (+48) 602 85
09 00, www.newculture.pl. These special events run
throughout the year. They are recitals by gifted members
of the Krakw Music Academy, many of whom are laure-
ates from international piano contests. The programme
is as varied as you like, approaching the great mans
work from a number of perspectives. A must for all
fans. Q Concerts take place every Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat,
Sun at 19:00. From May concerts take place everyday
at 19:00. Tickets 60/40z, Premium 150z, VIP 200z.
Available at City Information Point (ul. w. Jana 2, C-3,
open 10:00 - 18:00; from May 09:00 - 19:00.) as well as
at the Wierzynek reception desk (open 24hrs).
Classical and Film Music at St. Peter &
Pauls Church
C-4, St. Peter & Pauls Church, ul. Grodzka 54, tel.
(+48) 602 85 09 00, www.newculture.pl. A chance to
hear a wonderful series of concerts in the breathtaking sur-
roundings of St. Peter & Pauls. The event begins at 20.00
every Monday, Tuesday and Thursday and one can expect
to hear a mixture of baroque, romance and film music all
performed by the The Orchestra of the City of Cracow. Q
Concerts start at 20:00. Tickets 60/40z. Available at City
Information Point (ul. w. Jana 2, C-3, open 10:00 - 18:00;
from May 09:00 - 19:00) and before the concert.
Cracow Klezmer Concerts at the Isaac
Synagogue
E-6, Isaac Synagogue, ul. Kupa 18, tel. (+48) 602
85 09 00, www.newculture.pl. An artistic attempt to
preserve the Jewish heritage of Kazimierz, these concerts
are performed by the Tempero. Consisting of professional
musicians, all graduates of the Cracow Music University,
not only are they skilled at Klezmer and other Jewish
music, they have a modern approach to chamber music.
All taking place at the Isaac Synagogue, one of the best
preserved and largest synagogues in the country, at
present used by Hassidic Chabad Lubavith Community.
Q Concerts start at 18:00 on Tue, Thu and Sun. From
May concerts start at 19:00 on Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu and
Sun (except for May 14-18). Tickets 50/30z. Available at
City Information Point (ul. w. Jana 2, C-3, open 10:00 -
18:00; from May 09:00 - 19:00) and before the concert.
Opera & Organ Concerts
C-5, St. Giles Church, ul. Grodzka 65, tel. (+48) 602
85 09 00, www.newculture.pl. This series of Opera and
Organ concerts includes works by all the greats: Mozart,
Handel and Bach amongst others. The Opera Delights
Concerts at St Giles Church (at the foot of The Royal Castle)
give you a true taste of the city as it should be savoured. All
performed by gifted graduates from the Cracow University
of Music and soloists from Cracow Opera House and Phil-
harmonic, this is not only for opera lovers, but for everyone
who likes good music. Q Concerts starts at 19:00 on Wed,
Fri and Sat. Tickets 60/40z. Available at City Information
Point (ul. w. Jana 2, C-3, open 10:00 - 18:00; from May
09:00 - 19:00) and before the concerts.
Live Music - New Culture
25
HOTELS
24
HOTELS
Cream of the Crop
Copernicus C-5, ul. Kanonicza 16, tel. (+48) 12 424
34 00, www.hotel.com.pl. Youve chosen well. Few hotels
in Central Europe can match the standard set by Copernicus,
and its a firm favourite of visiting dignitaries, with former
guests including George W. Bush. Tastefully uncluttered
the hotel is decorated with heavy woodwork, marble, rich
fabrics and wall frescoes - some dating from the 14th cen-
tury. Enjoy rooftop terrace views of Wawel, gourmet food or
the fitness centre and swimming pool housed in the medi-
eval cellars. Q29 rooms (4 singles, 17 doubles, 8 suites).
PTJHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh
Grand C-2, ul. Sawkowska 5/7, tel. (+48) 12 424 08
00, www.grand.pl. Krakws first five-star hotel has long
been established as the citys most luxurious and has the
legendary guest list to prove it. Rooms and private suites
with original murals, coffered ceilings, stained glass windows,
ornamental fireplaces and ceremonious service create
the imperial ambiance the hotel has built its reputation on
since its 19th century stint as the Czartoryski Palace, while
a business centre and fitness club add modern conve-
niences. Q64 rooms (55 singles, 45 doubles, 9 apartments).
PTJHAR6UFLGKDW hhhhh
Grdek D-3, ul. Na Grdku 4, tel. (+48) 12 431 90 30,
www.donimirski.com. The honeymoon choice. Brought to
you by the same team behind the Pugetw and Maltaski,
so the quality comes as no surprise. The interior, designed
by Swiss studio IKRL, is redolent of an aristocrats country
retreat, and the individually designed rooms come with
vases of flowers, bathrobes and a homely look that reeks
of romantic class. Adjacent to a Dominican convent, Grdek
offers an air of complete serenity and 5 star standards. Q23
rooms (21 singles, 18 doubles, 2 suites). PTHAR
6ULGKDW hhhhh
Holiday Inn Krakow City Center D-4, ul. Wielopole
4, tel. (+48) 12 619 00 00, www.hik.krakow.pl. Nothing
short of top-level standards courtesy of the Holiday Inn. Easy-
on-the-eye navy blue colours, staff who fuss over you, private
parking and large rooms make this the reliable choice one
expects. For the best price check out the special daily offers
on their web page. Q152 rooms (148 singles, 148 doubles, 4
suites). PTJAR6UFGKW hhhhh
Hotel Stary C-2, ul. Szczepaska 5, tel. (+48) 12 384
08 08, www.hotel.com.pl. A feast of opulence awaits
inside one of Polands top hotels. Gain entry via a huge
hardwood door that automatically swings open, 007-style.
Occupying a former aristocratic residence many of the origi-
nal details have been retained alongside chic touches such as
a glass lift that zips guests to their rooms. Accommodation
comes with sumptuous rooms filled with creature comforts
and bathrooms fitted with Italian marble. A subterranean pool
open to all can be found in the cellars, while perched on top of
the hotel is a recommended albeit seasonal rooftop cafe/bar
with views staring onto the main square. The class of Krakw,
its no surprise that the English national football squad head-
quartered here during Euro 2012. Q53 rooms (8 singles,
34 doubles, 4 suites, 6 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite).
PTJHA6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh
Niebieski Art Hotel & SPA H-3, ul. Flisacka 3,
tel. (+48) 12 297 40 00, www.niebieski.com.pl. A
relatively new five-star hotel and spa on a quiet corner
of the Wisa riverbank, the Niebieski is designed to be
environmentall y sustainabl e and energy ef ficient, wi th
a harmonious holistic interior arrangement that extends
from the new Vanilla Spa throughout the entire hotel. The
spacious rooms feature wide, comfortable beds, unique
modern furnishings and soothing colours, and the third
floor apartments offer gorgeous views of the Wisa River
and Wawel Castle from their terraces. The philosophy of
well-being also applies to the Vanilla Sky on-site restau-
rant which serves light fusion cuisine with only certi fied
organic ingredients. There is also a 4-star hotel directly
next door owned by the same people i f youd rather keep
some of your cash to spend in the spa. Q40 rooms (38
si ngl es, 38 doubl es, 2 apartments). PTHAR
6UFGKDwW hhhhh
Radisson Blu B- 4, ul. Straszewskiego 17, tel.
(+48) 12 618 88 88, www.radissonblu.com/hotel -
krakow. Located next to the Filharmonia and the Planty,
the Radi sson i s pri me summer l ocati on i n the heart of
Krakow. Few ameni ti es are spared and you can take
advantage of free bi ke rental s, breakfast, hi gh-speed
i nternet and even certai n sui tes that al l ow smoki ng.
Weekends can be qui te busy i n the summerti me, so
book in advance and take advantage of the small fi tness
centre and spa, as well as the vari ous gui ded tours that
are sponsored by and ori gi nate at the Radi sson. Q196
rooms (148 si ngl es, 148 doubl es, 19 apartments, 29
Busi ness Cl ass Rooms). PTJHAR6UFG
KDXwW hhhhh
Sheraton Krakw A-5, ul. Powile 7, tel. (+48) 12
662 10 00, www.sheraton.pl/krakow. The choi ce
of the stars. This is where the Dutch national football
team set up camp during Euro 2012, though usuall y i ts
weal thy touri sts and corporate travel l ers who bustl e
through the glass-covered atrium in this sparkling fi ve
star venture near Wawel Castl e. Rooms come decorated
wi th chequered scarl et col our schemes and state-of-
the-art ameni ti es. Several fi ne restaurants and bars
are al so i n the buil di ng, i ncl udi ng a seasonal rooftop
terrace bar overlooking the river and castle. Q232 rooms
(228 singl es, 228 doubl es, 2 sui tes, 1 Wawel Sui te , 1
Presi dential Apartment). PTHAR6UFGK
DCW hhhhh
The Bonerowski Palace (Paac Bonerowski)
C-3, Rynek Gwny 42/ul. w. Jana 1, tel. (+48) 12
374 13 00, www.palacbonerowski.pl. A masterpiece of
a hotel occupying a historic property dating from the early
16th century - King Jan Sobieski walked these corridors
back in the 17th century. Many of the original details have
been retained and restored, including gothic columns and
medieval masonry and rooms come beauti fully appointed
with voluptuous drapes and elegant furnishings. Features
of note include a sweeping stairwell, chandelier hovering
above, as well as the full range of top-class services. Best
of all rooms come with grandstand views facing the main
square, allowing you to do all your holiday snaps from the
comfort of your room. Q15 rooms (8 singles, 8 doubles,
7 apartments). PTHAR6UFLGKDwW
hhhhh
Upmarket
Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikoajska 20, tel. (+48) 12 429 60
70, www.hotel-amadeus.pl. A posh effort inspired by the
age of Mozart with antique furnishings paired with state-of-
the-art trimmings. Prince Charles once bedded down here
and this is one place which guarantees the memorable stay
that this historic city requires. Q22 rooms (20 singles, 20
doubles, 2 apartments). PTYJHARUFL
GKDW hhhh
No matter your budget, thanks to Krakws ascent
i nto eli te status as a European desti nati on, there
is no lack of accommodation options in this fabled
city. From fancy 5-star affairs to familiar franchises,
boutiques to bed and breakfasts, historic apartments
to some 60-odd hostels - you wont be hard-pressed
for a place to stay. With limited space, we obviously
cant list every sleeper in the city in our print guide,
however you can find a comprehensive list of Krakws
myriad accommodation options on both our website
and mobile application.
With the increasing irrelevance of official rack rates
these days due to online booking discounts, special
offers and other price variations, we no longer find it
particularly instructive to list room prices in our guide.
Case in point, anyone who uses the Hotel Calculator
function on our website - krakow.inyourpocket.com
- will find a better rate than the official prices we once
printed; as such, we encourage you to do just that and
you can thank us later.
Accommodati on i s categori sed here subj ecti vel y
based on a combi nati on of l odgi ng type, l ocati on,
pri ce and ameni ti es, and i n our pri nt gui de we onl y
l i st those l odgi ngs that we most recommend to
touri sts.
Below is a list of some recommendations to help you
find what youre looking for.
SPLURGE
The Sheraton and the Grand both have sui tes that
top the 1000 per ni ght mark, wi th the Presi dential
sui te at Hotel Stary and apar tments of Palac
Bonerowski al so comi ng cl ose. Feel l i ke youre
spl urgi ng wi thout spendi ng so much by booki ng
yoursel f and the missus into the Komorowski Luxury
Guest Rooms.
CHEAP
Greg & Tom is the most spacious hostel and Fla-
mingo the most consistentl y acclaimed - both are
good options. For centrall y l ocated budget l odging
that trades drunken backpackers for a proper bed
and some pri vacy, try Tournet. Al ternati vel y, visi t
the ni ghtli fe section for suggestions on how to not
sl eep at all.
LADS
Pack mental i ty suggests you stop pi ssi ng around
and j ust book i nto the ever-hospi tabl e Sheraton.
However, i f you need to cut costs, l ook i nto the Ibis
or stay central i n Campanile or Pod Wawelem. Or
j ust make a reservati on at the pl ace you stayed
i n when your other buddy got marri ed l ast year.
Wed suggest an apartment, but we know youd
destroy i t.
FAMILIES
Why not put the fam in an apartment? In addi tion
to all owing everyone in your clan a bi t more room
to roam, you can also squeeze as many of fspring
into the bed as possi bl e at no extra cost and the
ki ds can be as l oud as they want wi thout irri tating
anyone. Except you.
Lodgings at a Glance
26
HOTELS
27
HOTELS
Amber B-2, ul. Garbarska 10, tel. (+48) 12 421 06
06, www.hotel-amber.pl. Set across two floors and a loft
the Amber combines pleasing cream and caramel colours
to compliment the light and modern interiors. Rooms offer
satellite TV and internet access, as well as generous duvets
in which to sink inside. Found down a quiet street just minutes
from all the action. Q18 rooms (3 singles, 15 doubles, 8
triples). PTHAR6UFGKDW hhh
andels Hotel Cracow D-2, ul. Pawia 3, tel. (+48) 12
660 00 00, www.andelscracow.com. One of the first
things youll see when you step off the train is this ultra-
modern hotel designed by Jestico & Whiles, so there can be
no doubt about location. Full of odd curves, recessed floor
and wall lighting, Andels hosts a restaurant, bar, fitness
studio, sauna and massage services. Rooms feature LCD
TVs, CD and DVD players, in-house movies and light, bright
colours, while the rooftop terrace of the Andels apartment is
simply unbeatable. Q159 rooms (153 singles, 153 doubles,
6 apartments). PTYHAR6UFGKDW
hhhh
Best Western Krakw Old Town C- 4, ul. w.
Gertrudy 6, tel. (+48) 12 422 76 66, www.bwkra-
kow.pl. The worl ds bi ggest hotel chain is late to the
party but has finall y made i t into Krakws Ol d Town,
modernising this histori c townhouse to meet the Best
Western standard. Whether you like the way they went
about i t is a matter of taste we suppose, but note that
most of the rooms have a bol d, avantgarde jazz theme;
that means piano key desi gn moti fs, wall -l ength cl ose-
ups of drum ki ts, show posters and mul ti - col oured
(thankfull y adj ustabl e) li ghting that all conspire to make
the space l ook more like a jazz-themed cocktail l ounge
than hotel. Room sizes range from cramped to spacious,
and some have a much more classic design, so i ts worth
sel ecting exactl y where youll sl eep before you get your
card out. On hand are also a bar, restaurant, conference
facili ti es and one of the onl y hotel parking l ots in the Ol d
Town. Q92 rooms (92 singl es, 91 doubl es, 19 tripl es).
PTHAUGKW hhh
Francuski C-2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 666 19
58 31, www.hotel-francuski.com. After being recently
purchased by famous restaurateur and TV personali ty
Adam Gessl er, the Francuski has undergone minor reno-
vations to the interior that have i t l ooking better than
ever. Here gol d-brai ded doormen and porters go about
their business as the ground fl oor Gessl er restaurant
stays packed around the cl ock. A grand ef for t that
oozes interwar el egance in a surprisingl y quiet location
ri ght near the Czartoryski Museum, Francuski squeezes
classi c furni ture into the rather ti ght quarters. Beds are
large and all rooms feature minibars, internet access and
trouser press. Best of all, breakfast and supper come
included in the pri ce of your stay. Q42 rooms (4 singl es,
23 doubl es, 15 apar tments). TJHAR6F
GKW hhhh
Galaxy K-3, ul. Gsia 22a, tel. (+48) 12 342 81 00,
www.galaxyhotel.pl. Of fi ciall y opened in September
2011, this enormous, modern hotel on the banks of the
Vistula River offers a variety of rooms, including some
speci ficall y designed for families and others for those
wi th di sabil i ti es. Oddl y, the pri ce of a standard room
includes access to the adjoining spas indoor swimming
pool, fitness club and hot tub free of charge, but internet
access (wi fi or dataport) is an additional 5 Euros a day.
As youll note from the stylish map in the centre of the
lobby, their location is well-placed for a walking-distance
journey across the river to Schindlers Factory and the
neighbouring Museum of Contemporary Art, and generally
more ideal for exploring Podgrze and Kazimierz than the
Old Town. Q205 rooms (200 singles, 200 doubles, 50
tripl es, 5 sui tes). PTHARUFLGKDX
CwW hhhh
Hilton Garden Inn Krakw I- 4, ul. Marii Konopnick-
iej 33, tel. (+48) 12 399 90 00, www.hgi.com. This
newest luxury hotel on the banks of the Wisa has more to
offer than just spectacular views of the river and Wawel.
The first Hilton Garden Inn to open in Poland, the brand
is designed to tame the tension of demanding business-
people. Rooms come with large workspaces, a separate
living area with a pull-out sofa, ergonomic chairs designed
to relax your back and fully-adjustable beds. Arguably the
most comfortable hotel room youve ever stayed in, a 24-
hour business centre, fitness centre, conference facilities,
bar and 2 restaurants are also on hand. Q154 rooms (147
singles, 147 doubles, 7 apartments). PTHARUF
GKW hhhh
Hotel Unicus C-2, ul. w. Marka 20, tel. (+48) 12
433 71 11, www.hotelunicus.pl. Nice choice. Located
a short walk from the train station and ri ght on a corner
of the Royal Route i ts di f fi cul t to feel like youre stay-
ing anywhere other than the heart of the ci ty. Modern
conveni ence i n an el egant ol d bui l di ng, the dapper
rooms include everything youd expect from a modern
upmarket hotel and guests can enj oy the use of a fi tness
room and sauna, as well as conference facili ti es and a
stylish restaurant wi th strong reputation. Q35 rooms
(12 singl es, 23 doubl es, 1 apartment). PTHAR
FLGKDW hhhh
Matejko D-1, Pl. Matejki 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 47 37,
www.matejkohotel.pl. A grand effort inside a fully restored
tenement building near the Barbican. Swish, spacious rooms
come with rich colours and modern trappings offering a fine
balance between past and present: wifi and satellite TV in
each and the doubles even come with proper beds. The
restaurant is full of stained glass, theres a beer garden in
summer and a full set of business facilities to boot. Q48
rooms (45 singles, 42 doubles, 3 apartments). THA
R6UGKDW hhh
Novotel Krakw Centrum H-3, ul. Kociuszki 5, tel.
(+48) 12 299 29 00, www.novotel.com. This beautiful,
modern hotel at the doorstep of the Old Town offers all
the comforts youd associate with a big brand name, plus
views of Wawel Castle and the river from the upper floors.
Fully handicap-accessible facilities, spacious rooms, air-
conditioning from top-to-bottom, a stylish restaurant and
fantastic hotel pool, hot tub and sauna all give you extra
reasons to make a booking here. Q198 rooms (192 singles,
192 doubles, 6 apartments). PTHA6UFGK
DCwW hhhh
Novotel Krakw City West (formerly Novotel
Krakw Bronowice) F-2, ul. Armii Krajowej 11, tel.
(+48) 12 622 64 00, www.accorhotels.com. Not the
best location around, nor does it look like Prince Charmings
palace from the outside, however this big functional box hotel
continues to make improvements for the sake of comfort
(be aware that some renovation work will be going on until
the end of February, though the hotel remains open). The
rooms are some of the largest in town and would seem even
more spacious if the beds werent so big; with over 300 of
them, this is still one of Krakws larger hotels, and as such
primed for large conferences and tour groups casting a
glance at the higher end of the hotel market. The restaurant
has expanded and the lobby has been turned into a lounge
with books and the daily foreign press to peruse. Start the
day with a few lengths in the swimming pool, and finish it
with late night cocktails in their bar. You can also rent a bike
from reception. Q305 rooms (304 singles, 304 doubles, 1
apartment). PTHAR6UGKDCW hhhh
Park Inn by Radisson Krakow A-7, ul. Monte
Cassino 2, tel. (+48) 12 375 55 55, www.parkinn.
com/hotel-krakow. One of Europes fastest-growing hotel
companies, Rezidor has plonked a modern colossus across
the Wisa from Kazimierz, which must be eyeing the inter-
lopers simple, modern curves and colour scheme slightly
dubiously. This mid-ranger in Dbniki features a fitness
room and wellness centre, impressive business facilities,
a bar and grill restaurant, lots of parking and an additional
152 kitted-out rooms in Park Inns signature colours: looks
a bit like a Twister mat, but conjures fond memories. Q152
rooms (152 singles, 152 doubles). PTHAR6U
FLGKDW hhhh
Pod R (Under the Rose) C-3, ul. Floriaska 14,
tel. (+48) 12 424 33 00, www.lhr.com.pl. A beautifully
restored historic hotel, and formerly the stamping ground
of Tsar Aleksander I and Franz Liszt. Recent renovations
have done nothing to disturb the character and rooms come
with state-of-the-art facilities, Persian rugs and important
looking antiques. Reputed to be the oldest hotel in Krakw,
the Latin inscription above Pod Ras Renaissance door-
way reads May this building stand until an ant drinks
the ocean, and a tortoise circles the earth. So far, so
good. Q57 rooms (50 singles, 37 doubles, 7 apartments).
PTJHA6UFGKDW hhhh
28
HOTELS
29
HOTELS
Classic D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 32, tel. (+48) 12 424 03
03, www.hotel-classic.pl. The work of a Danish architect,
Classic combines clean lines and sleek furnishings with an
exterior that slots in neatly with the surrounding Old Town.
All rooms come with satellite TV, internet connection and
air-conditioning. Q31 rooms (26 singles, 26 doubles, 5
triples, 5 apartments). PTJAR6UGW hhh
Eden E-6, ul. Ciemna 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 65 65, www.
hoteleden.pl. A modern Kazimierz hotel that caters to all,
but keeps Jewish guests in mind with fragments of the Torah
on the doors, Krakws only truly kosher restaurant, original
paintings of Kazimierz life, and the only mikveh (Jewish ritual
bath house) in Poland. Q27 rooms (25 singles, 21 doubles, 5
triples, 2 suites). THA6UGDW hhh
Fortuna Bis A-3, ul. Pisudskiego 25, tel. (+48) 12 430
10 25, www.hotel-fortunabis.pl. A welcoming hotel with a
charming green, gated courtyard and wraparound balcony
festooned with flowerpots and shrubs. Rooms have a com-
fortable, homey atmosphere and come with free internet, and
guests get a 10% discount in the rustic restaurant serving local
specialties. Make use of the guarded parking and find most
of the citys attractions within easy walking distance. Get in
touch to negotiate prices. Q23 rooms (6 singles, 14 doubles,
2 triples, 1 apartment). THAR6ULGKW hhh
Ibis Krakw Centrum A-5, ul. Syrokomli 2, tel. (+48)
12 299 33 00, www.accorhotels.com. You know what to
expect with the Ibis brand. While not an adventurous choice,
the team behind the French franchise show an unflagging com-
mitment to maintaining international standards and high-grade
service. A central location, spotless furnishings and a refresh as
recently as August 2012 only add to the appeal. Q175 rooms
(175 singles, 175 doubles). PTJA6UGKW hh
Ibis Krakw Stare Miasto ul. Pawia 15, tel. (+48) 12
355 29 00, www.accorhotels.com. A bit more plush than
Ibis nearby budget hotel, this trusted brand guarantees a mod-
ern, wifi-enabled and - perhaps most importantly - soundproof
room fitted with a bed thats likely more comfortable than what-
ever youve got at home. Amenities outside the room include
a 24-hour bar for guests and a restaurant ready to serve you
something to eat no matter what the hour. We dont know many
other hotels that cater to your needs around the clock like that...
well, except for Ibis other almost 1,000 other hotels around
the world. Seems to be a winning formula. Q135 rooms (135
singles, 135 doubles, 16 triples). PTHA6UGKW
Karmel E-6, ul. Kupa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 67 00,
www.karmel.com.pl. Smack bang in the middle of the
action, this classic Kazimierz three-star gem may not offer
the most spacious rooms in the city but what it lacks in
square metres it more than makes up for with other things.
Friendly and genuinely helpful staff oversee everything
nicely, plonking chocolates on pillows and providing tea- and
coffee-making facilities in all the rooms. Theres free wireless
internet too, and a decentish cold buffet breakfast served in
the downstairs restaurant. Q11 rooms (4 singles, 6 doubles,
1 suite). THA6GKW hhh
Pod Wawelem B-5, Pl. Na Groblach 22, tel. (+48) 12
426 26 25, www.hotelpodwawelem.pl. A small hotel with
a futuristic look and a location that stands in the shadow
of Wawel Castle. Smart rooms come in pale lemon colours
with internet access and BBC available to veg in front of
the television. Find modern bathrooms attached to each
room, and a sharply designed restaurant on the ground
floor. Q48 rooms (47 singles, 42 doubles, 1 apartment).
PTHA6UGKDW hhh
Mid-range
Ascot Hotel E- 3, ul. Radziwiowska 3, tel. (+48)
12 384 06 06, www.hotelascot.pl. A modern front
shi el ds a sharpl y desi gned hotel that i ncl udes repri nts
of cl assi c works by Tamara Lempi cka i n the l obby,
and free i nternet access i nsi de each room. Smar tl y
appoi nted rooms come wi t h reddi sh carpet s and
bouncy beds, whi l e the shi ni ng whi te bathrooms al so
i ncl ude hai rdryers - not al ways a gi ven i n Pol and. Q49
rooms (49 si ngl es, 36 doubl es, 7 tri pl es, 2 quads).
PTHA6ULGW hhh
Campanile D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 424
26 00, www.campanile.com. Following the Euro2012
madness, the rooms and interiors got a full freshening
up. Brightly decorated in the franchises flagship colours
of cream and green, amenities include satellite TV and
bathtubs. Within fast walking distance of the train station,
ask for a room on one of the top-floors for views overlooking
the surrounding Planty Park. Q106 rooms (105 singles, 105
doubles, 43 triples, 1 suite). PTJHA6UGW
hh
Chopin Cracow K-2, ul. Przy Rondzie 2, tel. (+48)
12 299 00 00, www.chopinhotel.com. A modern
buil ding in a central location well -connected to transport
poi nts, Chopi n features styl i shl y- desi gned i nteri ors,
including cl ean, col our ful rooms, a western atti tude to
servi ce, free wi fi, fi tness centre wi th sauna, restaurant,
bar, conference faci l i ti es and more. Recent renova-
tions, as well as regular promotions, make this a very
good choi ce for the money. Q220 rooms (212 singl es,
7 doubl es, 1 apartment). PTHAR6UFLG
KDW hhh
Qubus Hotel Krakw J-4, ul. Nadwilaska 6, tel.
(+48) 12 374 51 00, www.qubushotel.com. A cool design
includes an eye-catching wall that juts out at an angle from
the hotels faade. Air-conditioned rooms come furnished to
high standards and feature 26 inch televisions, broadband
internet as well as an ironing board to help with keeping
up appearances. Unsurprisingly theres a heavy business
slant to this hotel, with nine conference rooms to pick from,
while for after-work moments take timeout in the fitness
centre - complete with top floor swimming pool with views
stretching over central Krakw. Q194 rooms (183 singles,
170 doubles, 10 suites, 1 apartment). PTHAR
6UFGKDCW hhhh
Rubinstein Residence E-6, ul. Szeroka 12, tel. (+48)
12 384 00 00, www.rubinstein.pl. Its no longer possible
to refer to Kazimierz as Krakws upcoming district. Kazimi-
erz has well and truly arrived, and this place is the proof. In
keeping with the spirit of the area rooms in the Rubinstein
come with elegant carved wood finishes, luxurious rugs and
antique details. Some feature restored timber ceilings, and
all are treated to modern finishes that include gleaming
bathrooms, air conditioning and digital TV. Situated right in
the thick of the tourist trail, so expect a host of sights right
on your doorstep. Q28 rooms (23 singles, 19 doubles, 5
suites). PTHARFGKDW hhhh
Wielopole D-4, ul. Wielopole 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 14
75, www.wielopole.pl. An incredibly good deal found three
minutes from the Old Town. Simple, spotless and recom-
mended, this hotel features a matey welcome in reception,
and large rooms decked out in soft browns. Q35 rooms (9
singles, 27 doubles, 6 triples). PTAR6ULGKW
hhh
As a unique 3-star hotel located in a quiet part of Cracow
just 5km from the Market Square, we ofer silence and
comfort to our many guests. Our hotel restaurant serves
delicious Polish and continental cuisine, while our guests
also have the use of an outdoor barbecue grill. We also
ofer a sauna and tanning bed.
Ul. Ruczaj 44, 30-409 Krakw
tel. +48 12 269 10 00, fax +48 12 269 20 30
e-mail: ruczaj@ruczajhotel.pl
www.ruczajhotel.pl
30
HOTELS
31
HOTELS
seedy nightlife, much of which takes place directly across the
street. Small, colourful and comfortable with a nice common
area, rooms range in size from doubles to ten bed dormitories
and the facilities on offer include free internet use, laundry and
kitchen. The hostel also operates apartments on ul. Duga
(C-1) and ul. Podwale (B-3). Q16 rooms (2 singles, 2 doubles,
8 apartments, 44 Dorm beds). AGW
Greg & Tom D-2, ul. Pawia 12/7, tel. (+48) 12 422 41
00, www.gregtomhostel.com. A top hostel offering internet
and DVD player, as well as hostel standards such as kitchen
and linen. Aside from a guaranteed warm welcome, the biggest
boon here is a refusal to pack rooms out with as many beds as
possible, making it ideal for travelling couples. Clean, modern
furnishings, this is as chic as hostelling gets. Note that there is an
age(ist) policy of only accepting 18-60s. Also a second location
at ul. Zyblikiewicza 9 (D-3) and from March a third location at
ul. Floriaska 43 (C-2) that includes a restaurant and pub. Q8
rooms (3 singles, 3 doubles, 3 triples, 23 Dorm beds). AGW
The Secret Garden Hostel D-7, ul. Skawiska 7, tel.
(+48) 12 430 54 45, www.thesecretgarden.pl. Secret
Garden Hostel is part of a new wave of low-cost options, and its
also one of the best. Certainly the most colourful, quarters come
with names that leave no doubt over what colours to expect on
opening the door, from Clockwork Orange to Vanilla Sky via Mint
Sorbet. Dorms come with comfortable pine bunks, while private
rooms are neat, simple efforts, with the addition of wrought
iron furnishings and colourful bed spreads. The common room
features low-slung sofas and a DVD library to put to the test,
plus theres laundry services, free internet access and a garden
for barbecues if the season is right. Secret Garden Hostel also
has six fantastic apartments close to the main hostel with three
others nearby in Kazimierz. Q23 rooms (17 singles, 17 doubles,
4 triples, 1 quad, 14 Dorm beds). TA6UGW
Ruczaj G-5, ul. Ruczaj 44, tel. (+48) 12 269 10 00,
www.ruczajhotel.com.pl. Set in a new but classically
stylish building in a residential area, the Ruczaj is a lovely
hotel for those willing to taxi into town. Some rooms boast
unique balconies while all rooms come furnished with an
individual touch. Q45 rooms (25 singles, 17 doubles, 12
triples, 4 quads, 4 suites). PTHAR6UKDW
hhh
Wawel C-4, ul. Poselska 22, tel. (+48) 12 424 13 00,
www.hotelwawel.pl. Already one of the top mid-range
offers in the city centre, Wawel was the beneficiary of a
recent renovation, making it even more of a steal. Set inside
a historic townhouse, some of the 19th century secession-
ist touches have survived, including the glass roof of the
entrance and iron balustrade of the stairwell. A magnificent
muralled courtyard will have you wishing it was summer all
year round, while the fabulous mosaicked wellness centre
will have you not caring to step outside at all. Q38 rooms
(9 singles, 28 doubles, 1 apartment). PTJHARG
KDW hhh
Wyspiaski D- 3, ul. Westerplatte 15, tel. (+48)
12 422 95 66, www.hotel-wyspianski.pl. While the
blockish faade doesnt promise much, the Wyspiaski is
well worth every one of its three stars. Rooms have been
thoroughly modernised and feature rather natty patterned
duvets, private bathrooms and televisions. The gleaming
coaches regularly parked outside testi fy to its popularity
amongst tour groups. Q231 rooms (150 singl es, 109
doubles, 81 triples). OTYHAR6ULGKW
hhh
Budget
Ibis Budget Krakw Bronowice F-2, Al. Armii
Krajowej 11a, tel. (+48) 12 626 11 45, www.ac-
corhotels.com. Some di stance from the ci ty centre,
but a sol i d bet, and l i ke al l I bi s hotel s i t of fers terri fi c
value for your money. The tiny li ttl e rooms pack a power-
ful punch and have comfy beds, fl atscreen tel evi si ons,
enormous wi ndows and i mpressi ve bathrooms (wi th
shower, no bath). For what you pay you get a hel l of a
l ot here, i ncl udi ng a buf fet breakfast. Recommended.
Q120 rooms (120 si ngl es, 120 doubl es, 16 tri pl es).
PTA6UGW h
Ibis Budget Krakw Stare Miasto ul. Pawia 11, tel.
(+48) 12 355 29 50, www.accorhotels.com. Amongst
the best budget hotels in Europe, with Ibis you get a reliable
brand at the right price, and this one is outstandingly located
near Krakws train station, only minutes from the market
square - really, it couldnt be easier. Earning plus marks for
cost, convenience, and comfort as well, the rooms arent
overly spacious, but include cosy beds with extra fluffy pillows
and duvets, flatscreen TVs and free wifi. Modernly styled with
plenty of colour and personality, while some budget options
can be downright crude, Ibis Budget is outright charming,
ensuring a happy sleep. Q167 rooms (167 singles, 167
doubles). PTA6UGW
Tournet D-6, ul. Miodowa 7, tel. (+48) 12 292 00 88,
www.accommodation.krakow.pl. Excell ent pension-
style accommodation in the heart of the Kazimierz quarter.
Rooms come with clean bathrooms, colourful duvets and
effective heating. The more expensive rooms have TVs and
huge double beds, while all have a kettle and alarm clock.
Also find an in-house restaurant - Czarny Kocio (The Black
Cauldron) - downstairs. Q18 rooms (17 singles, 16 doubles,
10 triples). TA6GKW
Apartments
Apartment Cracow C-2, ul. Floriaska 39, tel. (+48)
12 431 00 26, www.apartmentcracow.com. Several
locations around the historic centre - including the Floriaska
and Grodzka Aparthotels - with accommodation fitting up to
six people. Take a look at these prices, they are basically un-
beatable. All apartments come with fully fitted kitchens, satel-
lite TV and internet access, and rooms come with a pleasant
modern aesthetic. Airport pick-up can also be arranged. Q30
rooms (30 apartments). TJA6UGKW
Apartmenthouse Grodzka C-3, ul. Grodzka 4, tel.
(+48) 12 421 48 35, www.grodzka.net.pl. Top-rate ac-
commodation with facilities that include fridge, LAN and cable
TV. The interiors are a tasteful mix of old and new: original
brickwork and timber touches combined with chic designer
furnishings. Q16 rooms (16 apartments). TA6GW
B&B La Fontaine C-3, ul. Sawkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12
422 65 64, www.bblafontaine.com. These high standard
apartments right in the heart of the city come furnished in
a chic, modern style decorated with relaxing scarlet and
white colours. All have microwave ovens, air-conditioning,
hairdryers and high-speed internet connection, however the
hike up to the third floor may not suit all guests. Q7 rooms
(7 apartments). PTA6GKW
Hostels & Dorms
Flamingo Hostel B-3, ul. Szewska 4, tel. (+48) 12 422
00 00, www.flamingo-hostel.com. Consistently ranked
as one of the best hostels, not only in Krakw but the world,
Flamingo builds its reputation on the friendliness of the staff
and their willingness to give guests personal tours of the citys
Pollera D-3, ul. Szpitalna 30, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 44,
www.pollera.com.pl. A beautiful stained-glass window by
Stanisaw Wyspiaski over the staircase is the first thing to
catch the eye. The bathrooms and furnishings are old but
functional and the rooms are otherwise fully equipped. You
might not get all new amenities, but you do get 175-year-
old tradition. Q42 rooms (31 singles, 24 doubles, 7 triples,
2 quads, 2 apartments). PTJHA6GW hhh
Polonia D-2, ul. Basztowa 25, tel. (+48) 12 422 12
33, www.hotel-polonia.com.pl. Operating since 1917
this grand corner structure catches the eye the moment you
leave the train station. Guests are greeted with a multi-lingual
welcome and awesome lobby, while suites come decorated in
a mock 19th century style that help evoke Krakws golden
years. Q61 rooms (43 singles, 32 doubles, 15 triples, 3
apartments). PTJHA6GKW hhh
Royal C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421 35
00, www.hotelewam.pl. This utterly charming hotel in an art
nouveau turn of the century building gives you an experience you
could only have in Krakw, and thats a statement many pricier
hotels cant make. Authentic in every way - from the reception
area with a canopied desk, glass phone booth and wonderful
secessionist staircase, to the spacious rooms fitted with pre-war
furnishings, carpets and wallpapers - as Royals facilities have
recently been modernised (now garnering 3 stars) the style has
stayed exactly as it was a hundred years ago. The unbeatable
location directly faces Wawel castle from the confines of Planty
Park, and the ground floor bar/cafe and Pod Wawelem restaurant
are just more reasons to recommend this romantic old world
hotel. Its where we would stay in Krakow if we didnt already live
here. Q97 rooms (33 singles, 30 doubles, 9 triples, 12 quads,
10 suites, 3 apartments). PTJHA6UGKW hhh
32
RESTAURANTS
American
Bagelmama E-6, ul. Dajwr 10, tel. (+48) 12 346 16
46, www.bagelmama.com. Long known as Kazimierzs link
with the western world, Bagelmama brings an NYC deli staple
back to the city where its speculated that the doughy ring may
even have been invented all those years ago; and ironically
across from Polands oldest synagogue no less. Inside this
big, bright caf youre likely to meet Nava, its Yankee owner,
as he scurries back and forth filling orders, refilling coffees and
chatting with customers. A variety of fresh bagels come with
the toppings of your choice, with options including sun-dried
tomato cream cheese, humus, alfalfa sprouts, fresh salmon
and more. Burritos are back on the menu, plus soup, wraps,
falafel and the new bagel burger. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun
09:00 - 19:00. (7-21z). TA6UGSW
Grande Grill C-3, Rynek Gwny 16, tel. (+48) 12 424
96 21, www.grandegrill.pl. Contrasting with the inflexible
traditionalism of Wierzynek, this fresher effort from the same
team behind Krakws most famous restaurant balances mod-
ern styling and cuisine with its medieval setting. The seasonal
garden packed with plants hanging from timber beams has long
been regarded as one of the best in town, and the addition of a
stylish indoor dining area has made this an excellent year-round
venue. The menu is a simple selection of steaks, salads ad
burgers, all expertly made-to-order with the kind of service you
would expect from the citys most established restaurateurs.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (21-112z). TAGSW
Hard Rock Cafe C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429
11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. The international Hard
Rock Cafe chain has set up shop on some of the citys most
hallowed ground next to St. Marys Basilica. Inside youll find an
absurdly large number of staff members milling around amongst
rock memorabilia including a pair of Elton Johns spectacles to
an unplayable home-made guitar from Polish legends T. Love.
Featuring a modern interior stacked over three levels, stop by to
enjoy a juicy burger while gazing at a scarf John Lennon once wore.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (33-115z). PTAUEGBW
SomePlace Else A- 5, ul. Powi le 7 (Sheraton
Krakw), tel. (+48) 12 662 16 70, krakow.someplace-
else.pl. Attached to the Sheraton Hotel SPE is more than
a hotel restaurant, for expats this is every bit as good as a
one-way ticket home. The menu is a classic countdown of
Uncle Sams favourite bar food including nachos and some
other Tex-Mex offerings. As the rock memorabilia and diner
dcor suggests, this place doesnt take itself as seriously
as most hotel eateries, and its one of your best bets for
catching the game of your choice, be it NFL or MLB. Loosen
the tie and belt at the same time. QOpen 16:00 - 23:30,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (39-96z). PTAUGSW
Asian
Horai D-7, Pl. Wolnica 4, tel. (+48) 12 430 03 58, www.
horairestaurant.pl. A veritable veteran of the sushi scene at
this point, Horai had a significant hand in turning Plac Wolnica
over from a culinary no-mans-land to a stable of respectable
restaurants. With the short move across the square, Horai
now inhabits a more modern contemporary interior devoid
of illuminated panoramic photo-walls, paper lanterns or
origami hi-jinks. Instead its a sharp, organic design with lots
of blonde woods and an entire wall of stacked stones. An
enticing menu with broad appeal covers Japanese and Thai
cuisine with an extensive selection of sushi sets, curries and
grill offerings. One of the most affordable meals of its kind
in town and still one of the best. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (20-50z). PTA6UVGSW
With the development of the market in Krakow, the
number of places to eat is now extremely wide, though
diversity seems to have been abandoned in favour of fill-
ing every Old Town locale with a Polish-Italian restaurant.
These are of course the two types of cuisine that Krakw
does well, while ethnic food is still too often compromised
in an attempt to make it more acceptable to the Polish
palate. As such, Krakws esteemed culinary rep is rated
as a bit generous by some in the industry.
While In Your Pocket once listed every venue in the
city, the explosion of the market and sheer redundancy
of many places now makes it impossible for us to list
everything. In this section youll find reviews of what we
feel are the most note-worthy or high-profile establish-
ments in town, in order to help you find a place worthy of
your time and money, as well as avoid those with prime
locations that are not worth visiting. While our print guide
carries a wide selection, there are even more listed on
our website where we encourage you to leave your own
reviews of the places youve visited.
All reviews are updated regularly, completely subjec-
tive and unsolicited. The figures we quote in brackets
represent the cheapest and costliest main courses on
the menu. The opening hours we list are given to us by
the restaurants but are rough guidelines as to when
you can expect the chef to be working. Below is a list of
recommendations depending on what youre looking for.
SPLURGE: Wierzynek remains the king of Krakw - the
citys oldest and most upscale restaurant, right on the
Rynek. For something a bit more modern, try Szara
right next to St. Marys Basilica, or Kazimierzs Studio
Qulinarne, which features a splendid garden. The sophis-
ticated wine list and seasonal cuisine of Copernicus is
also bankable for your best meal while in town.
CHEAP: A traditional Polish milk bar is as cheap as
youll eat anywhere with a menu in your li fe, and the
clearly marked Bar Mleczny at ul. Grodzka 43 (C-4) is
the easiest to find. For something Polish with a bit of
atmosphere try Polakowski. If youre not a fan of Polish
food, Alebriche - Krakws Mexican eatery - is excel-
lent, Bagelmama is an old standby, or head to Momo
for something healthy and - youll never guess - green.
LADS: Take up a stein, tuck in your bib and feast like
a king for pauper prices in one of Krakws two brew-
eries - CK Browar and Stara Zajezdnia, or try Pod
Wawelem where the bathroom features a vomitorium
for those who over-consume. For less of a proper meal
hit up a Zakski Przekski (see our box) for Polish
tapas and cheap beer.
FAMILIES: Located near the market square, Mamy
Cafe (see Cafes) was made specifically to give parents
travelling with young children in tow a bit of a reprieve;
head there directly. Near Wawel, Pod Wawelem has a
sizable rumpus room for kids and food that theyll eat.
COUPLES: Finding a romantic spot in this city is not
di fficult. The city itsel f is a marvellous backdrop for
a romantic weekend and with cafes and restaurants
seemingly on every corner and in every courtyard you
shouldnt have to search far. Make a reservation in
ZaKadka, Resto Illuminati, Trufla or Aqua e Vino,
or for a particularly memorable evening, take a cab out
to enjoy the outstanding views at U Ziyada.
Dining at a Glance
34
RESTAURANTS
35
RESTAURANTS
Czech
Ceska Chodba A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 30, tel. (+48)
12 421 05 62, www.ceska.chodba.pl. The prevailing
Polish impression of things Czech - from the language to
the countrys pop culture - is that its all basically a wonky,
absurd or surreal version of its familiar Polish equivalent.
You can safely add Czech food to that list as well, which - as
visitors to this popular cellar restaurant will discover - is not
that much of a departure from Polish food, aside from some
subtle nuances. Take the two-person Czech sampler for ex-
ample, featuring exotic dishes like roast pork neck, goulash,
dumplings, fried cheese coated in breadcrumbs and baked
potatoes (who ever heard of such things?). Its all a bargain
and quite delicious of course, but whats the best thing about
a Czech restaurant? The beer, naturally, and here you have a
wide selection of the countrys finest served in manly steins.
As far as we know, the true Czech way is to drink your dinner.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (14-30z). TAUEGBSW
Diego & Bohumil C-5, ul. w. Sebastiana 6, tel. (+48)
12 426 01 01. Presumably the Bohumil side of this unique
enterprise, Diego i Bohumil combines Czech and Argentin-
ean cuisine in one locale through the friendship of the two
owners. The menu is split evenly between the two, and the
multi-lingual menu helpfully reveals that almost every Czech
entree seems to be a slight variation on a familiar Polish dish
like goulash, potato pancakes or fried cheese; not that thats
a bad thing. Simple, solid and affordable, DiB is big on friendly,
not fancy, making it a great place for after-work gatherings,
watching a football match or relaxing on the quiet terrace
(in season). Good selection of Argentinean wines and now
more Czech beers than ever before. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(16-65z). TIGBSW
French
Cyrano de Bergerac C-2, ul. Sawkowska 26, tel.
(+48) 12 411 72 88, www.cyranodebergerac.pl.
Krakws finest French restaurant is a magni ficent white
tablecloth affair, steeped in tradition and famed throughout
the city for scores of dishes including an exceptional foie gras
and the occasional experimental hit. Located in a medieval
cellar against a backdrop of antiques and tapestries, if youre
going to commit splurgery while in town, there are few bet-
ter places to do it than here, and thats a fact recognized by
none other than the Michelin Guide. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(42-96z). TAGBW
La Fontaine C-3, ul. Sawkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422
65 64, www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl. The courtyard ter-
race is the pick of places to eat at La Fontaine, though the
interior has a pleasing elegance as well when theres a gale
outside. Here delicious French food is served by a well-trained
staff who actually appear to enjoy what they do. So does
the chef, clearly, as he turns out wonderful dishes such as
roasted goose breast with mango, peach and honey-vinegar
juice. The set tasting menus are a good value at 58-78z.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-58z). PTA6X
NEW
ZaKadka - Food & Wine J-4, ul. Jzefiska 2, tel.
(+48) 12 442 74 42, www.zakladka.krakow.pl. Located
in a beautifully restored tenement just over the Bernadka
footbridge in Podgrze, this thoroughly classy and profes-
sional French-inspired bistro strikes a perfect balance of
modern elegance, exciting upscale cuisine and below market
prices to make it outrageously popular. Stud chef Rafa
Targoszs menu includes octopus, oxtail, snails, mussels,
chicken liver mousse, lamb tripe meatballs, veal tongue and
other exotic delicacies (as well as savoury sandwiches and
less daring dishes) at absolutely pedestrian prices when
compared to the skill of preparation and style of presenta-
tion. A perfect date destination, from the moment you step
inside seemingly everything about Zakadka - from the sharp
black and white interior to the delicious food and excellent
wine list (the owner even has his own vineyard) - becomes an
aphrodisiac; make a reservation now. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (26-38z). PTAUGBSW
Zazie Bistro E-6, ul. Jzefa 34, tel. (+48) 500 41 08
29, www.zaziebistro.pl. While no stranger to fine French
dining, this pleasant Kazimierz eatery is the closest Krakw
has come to a casual Parisian bistro, complete with classic
set meals (including an appetiser, main and dessert) for an
affordable 39z, and all the French culinary hallmarks like es-
cargot, fantastic creme brulee and quiche that you can order
by size from 1/8th to the whole pie. Set over two levels, the
ground floor tries its luck at looking like a Parisian sidewalk
terrace with a wall-length mural of Frances famous phallus
landmark, interior streetlights and even a candy-striped
roll-out canopy over one table; head to the cellar for a more
romantic atmosphere of candlelight and wine racks. Overall
a great way to enjoy French cuisine without indulging any
stereotypes about snobbery. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. (23-38z). PTA6GSW
Hungarian
Balaton C- 4, ul. Grodzka 37, tel. (+48) 12 422 04
69, www.balaton.krakow.pl. This veteran restaurant
and its mature, no-nonsense waitresses have aged well,
not changing a whit since establishing itsel f as one of the
citys first restaurants. Sure, the rustic folk interior is a bit
outdated, but the food is still a bargain, with portions so
big youd be wise to share that plate of goulash-smothered
potato pancakes - even the soups and stews can represent
a meal on their own. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (20-50z).
PTAGS
Deli Bar D-6, ul. Meiselsa 5, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 04,
www.delibar.pl. This small, poorly named, but long-running
Hungarian outfit in Kazimierz is the best the city has to offer,
serving up an extensive menu of greasy, spicy and filling
feast food from PLs ally to the south. The Deli Tal platter
for two is a great way to sample the house specialties and
also a great value, though this humble restaurant full of pop
music is hardly the best choice for a romantic dinner. Still,
the price to quality ratio is positively off-the-scale and after
consuming bland Polish food day after day, having a flavourful
Hungarian feed will remind you of the joy of eating. QOpen
13:00 - 22:00, Mon 13:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00.
(10-30z). TUGSW
www.yellowdog.pl
niedziela 12.00-21.00
poniedziaek-sobota 12.00-22.00
tel. +48 603 113 139
rezerwacje@yellowdog.pl
ul. Krupnicza 9/1, 31-123 Krakw
The most exciting
eating experience
in Krakow
ASIAN EATERY
Yellow Dog A-2, ul. Krupnicza 9/1, tel. (+48) 603
11 31 39, www.yellowdog.pl. Across from arguably the
best cafe in town, youll find one of Krakws most excit-
ing eating experiences. Cherry-picking the best dishes of
Thai, Vietnamese, Indian and other Asian cuisines (pad
thai, pho bo, beef redang to name a few), Yellow Dogs
clever menu gives you a brief background to entice you
towards each delicious entree. The side dishes - which
include edamame, tom yum and satay chicken - will give
you reason enough to fast for days before dropping in,
and dont forget the green tea cheesecake for dessert.
Many of the dishes are gluten-free and all are outstanding.
Making it all the more stylish is a slick, modern-minimal
interior with large street-side windows and a bouncy hip-
hop soundtrack. Definitely recommended and worthy of
repeat visits. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
(22-42z). PTA6GSW
DYNIARESTOBAR
20KrupniczaSt.,Krakow
Phone:+48124300838
www.dynia.krakow.pl
Open:Mon-Fri8.00-23.00
Sat-Sun9.00-23.00
Casualdiningatitsbest...
La Fontaine
Full Center Old Town
The best of the french cusine
Tel: +48 12 431 09 30 /48 12 422 65 64
www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl
lafontaine@lafontaine.com.pl
36
RESTAURANTS
37
RESTAURANTS
tion. Try the chef specialty lamb braised in red wine with
fresh garlic and vegetable while enjoying views of the Wisa
and Kotlarski bridge. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00.
(25-65z). PTAUEGW
Aperitif C-3, ul. Sienna 9, tel. (+48) 12 432 33 33,
www.aperitif.com.pl. This city-centre bargain near May
Rynek features a creamy interior livened by bright orange
tablecloths and garden dining in the back during the summer.
While the atmosphere and interior may invoke the Mediter-
ranean, the 19-25z lunch menu (Mon-Sat 12:00 - 17:00) isnt
above simple favourites like cheeseburgers, and Sundays
brunch (12:00-16:00) features American pancakes with ba-
con, or BBQ ribs. The dinner menu reveals no lack of creative
muscle with dishes like Rabbit leg caramelized in honey,
braised in red wine and plums at affordable prices, and the
wine list is longer than your arm. Aperitif is an all round delight.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-69z). PTA6UXSW
Baroque D-6, ul. Plac Nowy 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 15
48, www.baroque.com.pl. Known as one of Krakws
best cocktail bars, Baroques second location in Kazimierz
moonlights as more of a restaurant while the same mastery
of mixing drinks is still on display. In a great location right
on Plac Nowy, the interior of the new space suits the district
better by dialing down the posh elements and going modern
casual with lots of sunlight and a more natural colour palette.
The menu leans towards the Mediterranean while allowing
space for local specialties, pizza, pastas and some great
morning breakfast options as well. The hours listed are for
the kitchen; the bar stays open until 01:00 weekdays and
until 04:00 on weekends. Another location at ul. w. Jana 16
(C-2). QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. (18-55z).
PTA6EBXSW
Indus Tandoor C-2, ul. Sawkowska 13-15, tel. (+48)
12 423 22 82, www.indus.pl. Following a freshening-up
the reds, golds, greens and lotus patterns of Induss interior
look sharper than ever, but its the spacious new summer
garden full of colourful draped fabrics that we prefer when
the weathers warm. The near constant line of people filing
in and out speaks to the high quality of the food, and while
spice levels rarely threaten to reach volcanic, Indus is a vast
improvement on the ethnic experience of yesteryear. Try the
business lunch specials for a fantastic value. QOpen 12:00
- 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (13-32z). PTAGBS
International
Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikoajska 20 (Amadeus Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 423 03 40, www.restauracja-amadeus.
pl. Classy staff serve Polish and European classics taken
to new heights in the sumptuous surroundings of frescos
and 17th century furnishings. In other words, a treat. Try the
classic urek soup - few places do it better - before moving
on to more notable nosh like the venison that will have you
wondering how such simple flavours can be so rich. The su-
perior quality of this establishment has been grandfathered
into Krakws restaurant scene, and offers the rare chance
to eat well right off of Mozarts flatwared face. Q Open
07:00 - 11:00, 14:00 - 22:00. (29-69z). PTYAUG
Andromeda K-3, ul. Gsia 22a (Galaxy Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 342 81 42, www.galaxyhotel.pl. This large,
modern restaurant is not only spacious but also mildly space-
themed in keeping with the aesthetic of the Galaxy Hotel its
located in. Tables are elegantly dressed, but the best bit of
style youll find in Andromeda will be on your plate, as the
kitchen goes the extra mile in terms of aesthetic presenta-
Indian
Bombaj Tandoori E-6, ul. Szeroka 7-8, tel. (+48) 12
422 37 97, www.restauracjabombaj.pl. All around not a
bad effort, but a bit hit-or-miss: the Dupiaza is excellent, but
the same couldnt be said for the Vindaloo or Chicken Masala
Bhuna Gosht on our visits. And ordering your entree extra
spicy here certainly wont leave your kids orphaned. If nothing
else its a decent diversion from all the menorahs and prayer
shawls on display in neighbouring restaurants. Find a pleasant
interior with patterned tablecloths, pics of Himalayan mountain
scenes and photo albums of the staff and guests journeys
in the homeland. Bollywood dance performances are also or-
ganised in the summer garden. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. (18-42z). PTA6UVEGBSW
NEW
Ganesh C-3, ul. w. Tomasza 18, tel. (+48) 12 432 50
86, www.ganesh.pl. Looking more like a fashion club than
an Indian kitchen, this slickly modernised, minimally decorated
cellar restaurant leans close to an upper crust aesthetic we
associate with the capital, but its nicely executed and stops
well short of being showy. Though low-slung lounge seating
better suited for drinking than dining occupies two of three
rooms, lanterns cast a canopy of dim constellations on the
walls and theres an intimate curtained booth for whichever
lucky couple gets there first. The large menu ranges from
mutton and seafood entrees to sizzlers served on a hot plate,
and like most Indian establishments, gets pricey once you add
rice, bread and a bevvy. The lunch offer (soup and an entree
for 25z, served 12:00 - 16:00) is limited and rather weak,
and your enthusiasm for this place will largely depend on the
results of your order. We left underwhelmed and wondering if
were finally suffering from Indian food fatigue. QOpen 12:00
- 24:00. (24-52z). PTSW
We invite you to enjoy our original Indian dishes.
Catering service available
Ul. Sawkowska 13-15, phone: 012 4232282, www.indus.pl, indus@indus.pl
Open 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00
THE BEST INDIAN CUISINE IN TOWN
INDIAN RESTAURANT
Copernicus C- 5, ul. Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 34 21, www.hotel.com.pl.
Inside one of Krakws most exclusive hotels youll find
one of its most exclusive restaurants. The menu aims high,
and gets results with gourmet choices that change with
the seasons in order to incorporate fresh local produce as
much as possible. As the menu updates itsel f, the quality
remains constant, and here youll find one of the best wine
lists youve laid eyes on. Original frescoes still grace the
elegant gothic interior where the aristocratic cuisine has
been enjoyed by Nobel prize winners (Miosz, Szymborska)
and political dignitaries (Vaclav Havel, Helmut Kohl). At
Copernicus you get what you pay for, making it easy to
recommend for those on a royal budget. QOpen 12:00 -
23:00. (79-129z). PTAIEGSW
Dynia Resto Bar A-2, ul. Krupnicza 20, tel. (+48)
12 430 08 38, www.dynia.krakow.pl. Ultra-stylish, with
a design that incorporates lots of shining leather, bare
bricks and circular patterns. But the best bit of all is the
large seasonal garden - an absolutely ace spot festooned
with plant li fe and girdled by an ancient red brick wall. The
main menu features solid breakfast options, spaghetti,
soups, chicken and pork cooked up in a variety of ways,
as well as a range of low-cal meals for those whove had
enough of popping out of their buttons. This being Po-
land, you can expect the staff to look rather nice as well.
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (14-49z).
TA6UGBSW
38
RESTAURANTS
Europejska C-3, Rynek Gwny 35, tel. (+48) 12
429 34 93, www.europejska.pl. Impressive from start
to finish, this legendary veteran cafe/restaurant exudes
style, class and professionalism. The secessionist inte-
rior of artistic woodwork and green velvet booths under
vaulted ceilings is elaborately enhanced with phonographs,
grandfather cl ocks and other trul y exquisi te anti ques,
while English fox hunting imagery lines the walls. Perfect
any time of day from their excellent English breakfast to
international and Polish mains like baked salmon steak in
saffron sauce followed by to-die-for desserts, you can be
assured of flawless service and an elegant atmosphere at
this historic market square escape. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30.
(23-67z). PTAGSW
Kuchnia i Wino (Cuisine and Wine) D- 6, ul.
Jzefa 13, tel. (+48) 12 430 67 10, www.kuchnia-
iwino.eu. This l ocal favouri te of fers a qui et, inti mate
setting for a romanti c dinner j ust of f the bohemian de-
bauchery of Kazimierzs main square from which you can
try to pluck a date for one of the best meals in the area,
wi th the open fireplace the finishing touch. Choose from
pork tenderloin in Fourme dAmbert or truf fl e sauce,
and a host of great seafood dishes deli vered fresh on
Fri days. Also on of fer - and recommended - is the sirl oin
steak wi th Camembert sauce or garli c butter. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 12:00 - 22:00. (25-65z).
TA6IGBSW
Pod R (Under the Rose) C-2, ul. Floriaska
14 (Pod R Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81,
www.lhr.com.pl. Excell ent Polish and European cuisine
served under a gl ass-covered atri um i n the Pod R
hotel. A pi ano si ts on a rai sed pl at form, and hi gher up
theres a bal cony wi th tabl es overl ooki ng the mai n fl oor.
The menu features a veri tabl e l i st of bi rds and forest
ani mal s, i ncl udi ng a rather tasty dead bambi. Pri ces
are hi gh for Krakow, but then so are the standards.
QOpen 18:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (69-
89z). PTJAUEGSW
Ratuszowa C-3, Rynek Gwny 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 13
26, www.ratuszowa.restfood.pl. In summer, this is one of
the most lively locations on the market square, with fantastic
live concerts every evening in the covered seating under the
Town Hall Tower. In winter, the weathers lack of hospitality
forces only you into the unique historic interiors hung with
oil paintings and fitted with beautifully carved wood furnish-
ings. Today the restaurant somewhat awkwardly shares the
cellars with a theatre, and the fact that this once served as
a prison hardly seems like a surprise what with the heavy
iron doors and dim atmosphere. Upstairs or down, its a rare
experience you dont get many places any time of year - a
fact reflected by the tourist prices on the familiar menu of
Polish and Italian fare. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (16-60z).
PTA6GBSW
Restauracja Unicus C-2, ul. w. Marka 20 (Unicus
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 433 71 27, www.hotelunicus.pl.
This elegant, upscale restaurant offers an enticing range
of predominantly Polish dishes in the atmospheric cellars
below the Unicus Hotel. To whet your appetite, among the
treats populating the excellent value menu are the tried and
true Duck breast with traditional Silesian dumplings and two
types of coloured cabbage with rose sauce, or try the local
Ojcw-style trout roulade with cheese & buckwheat ravioli,
crystallised in garlic sauce. Polish cuisine doesnt get more
polished than this, and the fine place settings and historic
environs only heighten the experience. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00.
(41-69z). PTAGW
Lunch, or obiad in local parlance, has always been
the primary Polish mealtime in a feeding schedule that
generally bookends small bites for breakfast and dinner
around this laboriously prepared afternoon feast. A
typical Polskie obiad includes soup, meat and salads,
followed by something sweet. However, going out to eat
the traditionally home-cooked meal has never been a
popular Polish practice, unless its to a budget cafeteria.
As such, youd usually find all of the citys finest restau-
rants with empty dining rooms until the onset of dusk.
Taking their cues from Warsaw, however, the trend of the
budget lunch deal has now reached Krakw and many of
the citys best restaurants are now strategising to fill their
seats by offering multi-course meals in the afternoon at
prices that are a fraction of what you would pay a la carte.
As such, its a great way to enjoy some of the citys most
elegant establishments without breaking the bank or feel-
ing out of place. Youll notice offers for two-or-three course
set meals priced from 15-30z (4-7 Euro) all around the Old
Town, and weve listed some of the best offers below. Bear
in mind that these are not budget restaurants, but special
day-time offers from restaurants that might otherwise be
out of the price range of some, and that the prices rarely
include something to drink. Smacznego.
Aperitif C-3, ul. Sienna 9, tel. (+48) 12 432 33 33,
www.aperitif.com.pl. More than just offering a set
meal every day, Aperitif has its own lunch menu with an
array of options including the daily special, plus a tasty
club sandwich, chicken burger, a variety of hot wraps and
more. A soft drink is included and the prices are 19-25z.
A great choice if youre looking for a deal in an upscale
restaurant and you arent in the mood for Polish food. Q
Lunch served Mon-Sat, 12:00 - 17:00.
Haweka C-3, Rynek Gwny 34, tel. (+48) 12 422
06 31, www.hawelka.pl. Once patronised by European
royalty, every day this veteran Rynek restaurant offers a
set lunch menu of traditional Polish fare - soup, entree,
dessert for 29z. Q Lunch served every day 12:00 - 16:00.
Hot Chili C-2, ul. Pijarska 9, tel. (+48) 12 422 12 92,
www.indianfood.pl. One of Krakws best lunch offers,
if not its best Indian food. Choose between 18 dishes (9
vegetarian, 9 with chicken) including rice and a small salad
for only 15.50z, 17.50z for one of their tasty samosas
as well, or 19.50z for a samosa and naan bread. A great
value, the Korma is solid and the portions are big. Q
Lunch served Mon - Fri 11:30 - 16:30. PTAVGS
Mid i Wino C-2, ul. Sawkowska 32, tel. (+48) 12
422 74 95, www.miodiwino.pl. Drop by this above-
average medieval theme-restaurant in the afternoon for
a set three-course meal of soup, entree, dessert and
kompot to drink for only 25z. Q Lunch served every
day 12:00 - 16:00.
Restauracja Gessler we Francuskim C-2,
ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 12 627 37 49, www.
hotel-francuski.com. Drop in during lunch to get the
Gessler treatment for next to nothing. Though called
the espresso lunch, this is hardly a quick meal as din-
ers enjoy the soup and entree of the day, plus kompot
- stewed fruit tea - and a choice of desserts, over what
can easily become a languid hour spent feeling like youre
spoiling yourself. A great idea for a fun, shockingly cheap
date and highly recommended. Q Lunch served Mon-Sat
12:00-16:00. (20z). W
Lunch
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RESTAURANTS
Resto Illuminati C-3, ul. Gobia 2, tel. (+48) 12
430 73 73, www.restoilluminati.pl. Though the name
comes off as a tad trendy and eager to be elite, Illuminatis
connotations of smart, secretive and ancient recipes are an
apt portrayal of this attractive restaurant hedging modern
Warsaw style into a medieval Krakw setting. Most enjoy-
able and undervalued is the ability to dine in ancient vaulted
brick surroundings without being buried underground in a
windowless crypt. Check the wall-length blackboard for daily
specials before considering roast fillet of lamb, with date,
spinach and pine nut stuffing, wrapped in Serrano ham with
lamb liver, ratatouille and mint sauce. Oh yes. Also worth
checking out for breakfast and their daily lunch specials
served 12:00 - 17:00. Reassuringly theres no need for
blood rites to be a regular. QOpen 07:30 - 22:30. (46-77z).
PTA6EGBSW
Scandale Royal B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 2, tel. (+48)
12 422 13 33, www.scandale.pl. Scandale Royal suc-
cessfully skirts the line between lounge, cafe and bistro by
being one of the most stylish places to be all day and night.
In more shades of violet than we knew possible, it nonethe-
less stays well-lit and inviting thanks to wall-length windows
and a massive chandelier bisecting the two floors like a
fragile fire-pole. On the card youll find salads, pastas, and
meat dishes to taste, with proper breakfast in the mornings
and an after 22:00 menu (featuring tapas) late night, when
everything inside from the cushions to the clientele looks ed-
ible. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00. (18-57z).
PTAUXSW
Studio Qulinarne E-7, ul. Gazowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 430
69 14, www.studioqulinarne.pl. Housed inside an old bus
hangar on the site of the City Engineering Museum, Studio
Qulinarne has taken this airy industrial interior of bricks and
timbers and turned it into one of Krakws most elegant din-
ing destinations. Potted plants and illuminated white drapes
cleverly hang between fine table settings with refreshingly
mismatched 18th century chairs as a pianist plays in the
main dining area. The air of exclusivity is diffused by a chil-
drens corner, wall-length windows opening onto the street
in fair weather, and the summer garden full of greenery and
futons - one of the most comfortable places for a cocktail
in town. The menu ranges from affordable pasta dishes to
pricey exotic game, and we can recommend not only the
venison, but the entire experience. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(38-75z). TA6UEGBSW
Szara C-3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 69,
www.szara.pl. An important looking restaurant which
seems to draw most tourists at least once during their visit.
Vaulted ceilings, crisp linen and an atmosphere of complete
elegance make it a great venue for your special last night
meal, and the food rarely disappoints. Choose from dishes
like Planksteak with Bearnaise sauce in what has come to
be known as one of the cornerstones of Krakws culinary
scene. By morning an excellent breakfast destination (served
8:00-12:00) and cocktail bar by night. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(41-74z). PTAUGSW
Szara Kazimierz E-6, ul. Szeroka 39, tel. (+48) 12 429
12 19, www.szarakazimierz.pl. Opening after its sister
establishment on the Rynek, the second Szara achieved
Krakw legend status just as quickly. What makes it so spe-
cial is not the location on Szeroka, nor the swift and bubbly
staff, but the food: nowhere in the city can you eat so well for
so little. This is top cuisine - try the daily specials chalked up
on the blackboard - yet it comes in at bargain prices. Simple,
affordable and very cheerful. All of Krakw should be like
this. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (29-62z). PTAGBSW
The Olive A-5, ul. Powile 7 (Sheraton Krakw Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 662 16 60, www.theolive.sheraton.pl. Top
class Mediterranean and Polish dishes served inside the im-
pressive environs of the Sheratons voluminous interior atrium.
The glass roof makes it possible to dine under the stars while
the foliage dotted around adds to the al fresco atmosphere.
The best ingredients money can buy are complemented by
graceful service and some superb live piano. Fine dining at its
best. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30;
Mon 06:30 - 10:30, Sat 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 -
22:30; Sun 07:00 - 11:00. (30-94z). PTAUEGSW
Tradycyja C-3, Rynek Gwny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 96
16, www.tradycyja.pl. The main tradycja (tradition) of this
historic market square locale seems to be re-branding itself
every year, but that hardly dents the success of this tourist
magnet under the same management as the legendary
Wierzynek restaurant. Though somewhat haunted by the
spectres of past incarnations (a pizza oven in the corner
goes largely unused), theres no need to mess with what is
still a marvellous dining space blending old Polish aristocracy
with Roman antiquity, including a beautifully painted timber
ceiling and an outrageously gaudy chandelier (which we love
for just that reason). Like the interior, the simple menu of Pol-
ish and Italian dishes seems to have collected the highlights
of previous kitchens, ranging from grilled polenta with nuts
and gorgonzola sauce to pork tenderloin with plum-vodka
sauce. The results cover for the sometimes uneven service,
and the prices are well within reason. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(17-55z). TAUEGSW
Trufla C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 41.
The Krakw dining scene continues to improve and this cosy
place on Pl. Szczepaski sets itself apart by offering great
food at the right price. A simple, predominantly white decor
with wooden furniture allows you to relax while interpreting
the stylistically pleasing yet difficult to decipher handwritten
cursive menu of classic Italian dishes. The open kitchen lets
you in on the creative cooking process and the year-round
garden - with its small Japanese-style garden - is one of the
most gorgeous youll find around. With limited tables inside
and out, plus Truflas loyal band of followers, reservations
might be wise. QOpen 09:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:30.
(20-40z). A6GBSW
Trzy Rybki C-2, ul. Szczepaska 5 (Stary Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 384 08 06, www.likusrestauracje.pl. Hotel
Stary won an interior design award in 2007 and the interiors
of its ace restaurant are no less awe-inspiring, balancing the
modern with finely preserved details of this ancient building.
Serving fine Modern European cuisine with a Polish twist,
the menu changes like the seasons - or with them, rather,
meaning a steady effort from the kitchen to use the freshest
ingredients. Favoured by high-flyers and local business hon-
chos who have been regulars for years, this is a Krakw gem.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (79-95z). PTA6UGSW
U Ziyada ul. Jodowa 13 (Przegorzay Castle, Zwier-
zyniec), tel. (+48) 12 429 71 05, www.uziyada.pl. Pretty
much the most romantic restaurant in Krakw, if youve got
a date, blindfold them, put them in a cab and bring them
here. Set inside a magnificent castle perched atop a jag of
limestone poking out of Wolski Forest, the enormous semi-
circular terrace offers outstanding panoramic views of the
Wisa River and Tatra Mountains in the distance, and with
these prices youre basically getting them for free. The menu
is a mix of international dishes, plus dishes from traditional
Polish and Kurdish cooking, and the environment is literally fit
for royalty. Worth the trip. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. (23-60z).
TAGBSW
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Vanilla Sky H-4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski & SPA),
tel. (+48) 12 297 40 05, www.vanilla-sky.pl. The flagship
restaurant of the 5-blinger Art Hotel Niebieski, Vanilla Sky takes a
healthy approach as one of the citys only restaurants to get all of
their ingredients from certified organic sources, and the chef has
constructed a tantalising menu of Italian and Polish influenced
fusion dishes that will make you want to happily commit to the
eco-craze. Choose between options like courgette cream soup
with chanterelle ravioli or Argentinian steak served with Paris ba-
guette and Provencal vegetables. Set in the centre of a spacious
dining room on the hotels third floor, the well-dressed tables circle
a gorgeous Yamaha Grand Touch piano on which live concerts are
given by a local maestro Thursday to Saturday from 12:00-22:30
and Sunday from 14:00-16:00. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (39-69z).
PTAUEGSW
Israeli
Hamsa E-6, ul. Szeroka 2, tel. (+48) 515 15 01 45, www.
hamsa.pl. Located in a district whose dining establishments
still treat Jewishness as a faded sepia part of the past (see the
place next door if you need an example), finally here comes a
restaurant free of pre-war nostalgic dcor and wooden roof
fiddlers, where Jewish cuisine doesnt mean traditional East
European fare. Making a bold impression simply by being bright,
modern and free of clutter, Hamsa offers a range of authentic
Middle Eastern specialties from the kitchens of Israel, Palestine
(everyones friends over good food), Syria and Saudi Arabia in
a casual environment. The mezze sets are perfect for sharing,
and not only give you a chance to sample delicious starters like
the several types of hummus, babaganoush, falafel, labnah and
muhammarah (our recommended choice), but are also beautifully
presented in hand-painted dish ware. Dont skip dessert or miss
the list of Israeli wines either. Fairly-priced and generally a breath
of fresh air on what was becoming a stuffy street, Hamsa is a
delight. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (24-41z). TAGBSW
Italian
Al Dente E-6, ul. Kupa 12, tel. (+48) 12 430 04 18.
A light and airy room with a cream and modern look. This is
where the local sophisticates have been seen heading, drawn
no doubt by Sardinian cuisine prepared by the imported chef.
Authenticity is topped off by the ingredients, most of which
come shipped direct from Italy. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (22-
55z). TA6UGBXSW
Amarone C-2, ul. Floriaska 14 (Pod R Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. Upmarket Italian
food served in an elegant setting to a discerning audience -
all of whom appear to know exactly what they are ordering
and how it should be prepared. The pressure is on, but the
Amarone team comes through every time and the clients
keep coming back. Enjoy fresh bread (baked daily), home-
made pasta and authentic ingredients straight from Italy in
an exclusive atmosphere made Mediterranean via plenty of
natural light and potted plants. Weekdays 12:00 - 16:00 offer
a fantastic five-course tasting menu for only 50z. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (39-65z). PTJAUEGSW
Aqua e Vino B-3, ul. Wilna 5/10, tel. (+48) 12 421 25 67,
www.aquaevino.pl. Still as exciting as the day it opened. Italian
owned, this chic cellar space comes decorated in a minimalist
style with cream and black colour combinations, and an atmo-
sphere redolent of downtown Milan. Half restaurant, half lounge
bar, the beautifully presented dishes come cooked up by house
chef Francesco. Earning rave reviews from all corners, this merits
a place on any must visit list you may be keeping. Stop in during
lunch (Mon-Fri 12:00-16:30) to get an appetiser, main and drink
for only 35z. QOpen 12:00 - 22:45. (24-78z). PTAGSW
Corner Burger E-6, ul. Dajwr 25, tel. (+48) 535
85 01 09. Krakws Battle of the Burgers is officially
underway and this small feed station makes a strong
argument for itself. With a few elements of Americana
- laminated menus, classic chequered tablecloths - the
simple interior stops short of achieving any retro-chic
appeal it might be trying for, thanks in part to amateurish
paintings of Jules Winnfield (Samuel Ls character from
Pulp Fiction) declaring Tasty Burger! We certainly
wouldnt disagree with that, though: requiring two hands
and enough concentration to kill any mealtime conver-
sation, our Firehouse was delicious, with the perfect
amount of toppings and heat. Theres no soda fountain,
but they do make some pretty decent shakes, and the hip
surf rock soundtrack is priceless. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (15-50z). TAGSW
Love Krove D-6, ul. Brzozowa 17, tel. (+48) 793
79 32 12. Full of strange graffiti, slick graphics and a
collection of wind-up robots, this hipster headquarters
even includes a downstairs art gallery. As for food, Love
Krove takes the burger concept and pushes it beyond
your expectations; in fact, well beyond the capacity of
your open mouth and maybe your stomach too. These
burgers are so stacked with tantalising toppings (includ-
ing guacamole, gorgonzola, rucola, chorizo and more)
you can hardly fit them in your face, and its good sport
watching the locals try to kni fe and fork them (sigh).
Served on a fresh roll, most of the burgers on the menu
come overflowing with mustard, mayo, salsa or sauce,
meaning you may want to build your own to make eating
less of a mess. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 -
23:00. (15- 25z). TA6GSW
Moaburger D-3, ul. Mikoajska 3, tel. (+48) 12 421
21 44, www.moaburger.com. Like most things from
New Zealand, Moaburger is very proud, making it clear
from the kiwi iconography and info all over the interior
that this is a NZ take on the classic American burger and
shake shack. As far as the food goes, theyve certainly
super-sized it: burgers come served on a tray (a plate
just wouldnt do) and you might even consider splitting
one with a friend if you have any other meals planned
later in the day. Piled with the toppings of your choice,
in contrast to Love Krove, Moaburgers arent a mess to
eat. In fact theyre darn enjoyable, though youll discover
its not exactly the cheapest meal out, with a burger, fries
and a drink coming in over 30z. Still, this is Krakws
most popular burger joint. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 21:00. (11-28z). PTA6GSW
Moo Moo Steak & Burger Club D-3, ul. witego
Krzya 15, tel. (+48) 531 00 70 97. On first glance this
club looks exclusive indeed, with runway waitresses,
collared clientele and a minimal, modern monochromatic
interior that looks more designed for a romantic date than
spreading your face over a beef patty (and vice versa). The
menu reveals an array of options from tartare to trout,
but wheres the beef? In the delicious, but not too dense
burgers, of which there are 17 variations, including chicken
and vegetarian substitutes. Patties are thin and oblong,
as are the buns, so that when cut in half you have what
would pass in most places as two burgers on your plate.
Steaks are offered at two weights so that you dont get
priced out, and the prevailingly realistic prices and random
music playlist make this place a lot less pretentious than
it first appears, and one well be coming back to.QOpen
08:00 - 23:00. (20-69z). PTAUVGBS
Burgers
44
RESTAURANTS
45
RESTAURANTS
and the list of premium toppings unheard of in other pizza
joints, including feta, camembert, roquefort, capers, mussels,
crabmeat, beans and Tabasco (!!!) to name a few. The cherry
on this sundae, however, is the arrival of extra marinara sauce
with the pie - a mind-blowing event for anyone now grown ac-
customed to the unilateral substitution of cheap, translucent
ketchup for red sauce. If thats not amore, well, we dont know
what is... Also in the centre at (C-2) ul. Sawkowska 3 and (J-2)
ul. Lubomirskiego 41. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
24:00. (16-30z). PTAGSW
Il Calzone D-4, ul. Starowilna 15a, tel. (+48) 12 429
51 41, www.ilcalzone.pl. Tucked behind the Pugetw
Palace, this veteran trattoria continues to impart the cor-
nerstones of Italian cooking - from pizza and calzones to
gnocchi and fresh tortiglioni - now extending themselves to
new favourites like the rosemary lamb. Combining sophisti-
cated service with a casual atmosphere, dine in an interior
of colourful photos of Italy, stout wooden tables and a timber
ceiling, or enjoy the terrace seating in short-sleeve weather.
Reliable and recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 23:00. (15-46z). PTAUGBSW
La Campana Trattoria C- 4, ul. Kanonicza 7, tel.
(+48) 12 430 22 32, www.lacampana.pl. Planted on
picturesque Kanonicza Street, La Campana Trattoria is a
completely di fferent restaurant in summertime when its
worth visiting just to relax in the gorgeous ivy-green garden
and cobbled patio; full of sunlight and singing birds, it may be
the best dining environment in Krakw. In winter, retreat to
the romantic cellars and dream of better weather. From the
same tried and true team behind Mid Malina and Wesele
- two of our favourites (and the Michelin Guide agrees) - the
pastas and risottos are as good as youd expect. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (16-52z). TAEGSW
Mamma Mia B-2, ul. Karmelicka 14, tel. (+48) 12 430
04 92, www.mammamia.net.pl. Find some of Krakws best
pizza dispatched from a traditional wood-fired oven and the
choice of numerous other Italian standards prove Mamma Mia
is more than a one trick pony. The interior - clever lighting and ex-
posed bricks - makes a cool backdrop for casual dining, and the
army of regulars is testament to Mamma Mias growing reputa-
tion, even luring them in for breakfast (served 07:45-12:00, Sat
08:00-12:00, Sun 09:00-12:00) with fresh panzerotti, eggs,
muffins and more. QOpen 07:45 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00,
Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (14-43z). PTAUGBS
Marcello C-3, Rynek Gwny 19, tel. (+48) 12 426 30
08, www.restauracjamarcello.com.pl. Magda Gessler has
nested down on Krakws market square, adding her name
to the illustrious Wentzl restaurant and opening this Italian
eatery in the basement of the same historic locale. Tastefully
decorated by Gessler standards, Marcello features a classic
blue and white striped design motif and weathered wooden
tables that essentially make you feel like youre on a Tuscan
picnic, albeit in a medieval cellar. Somehow it works and the
old photos of Italian screen starlets that adorn the walls add
that sexy touch of class that we fondly remember Sophia Loren
for. Choose from all the hearty Italian staples, in addition to
dishes like grilled steak fillet in balsamic vinegar or rosemary
sauce, and an expansive selection of Italian wines. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (18-56z). PTAEGBSW
Milano Ristorante C-3, Rynek Gwny 42/ul. w.
Jana 1 (The Bonerowski Palace), tel. (+48) 12 374 13
00, www.milanokrakow.pl. Housed in perhaps the most
magnificent building on the market square, just a stones
throw from the Cloth Hall, Milano is a classy and smart dining
option. A small collection of intimate rooms decorated with all
manner of oddities including a rocking horse provide ample
opportunity to tuck into a fine range of Italian and interna-
tional dishes. The clientele is mixed albeit mostly well-heeled,
whilst the almost inaudible music comes as an extremely
pleasant surprise in whats becoming an increasingly noisy
city. All in all a great choice for pushing the culinary boat
out when youre in town. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (33-119z).
PTAUEGBSW
Trattoria Pistola D-6, ul. Boego Ciaa 7, tel. (+48)
12 341 58 82, www.trattoriapistola.pl. Located on what
has become one of Kazimierzs busiest blocks, this buildings
renovation has played its role in the renaissance and is now
home to Pistola - a casual trattoria with a surprisingly good
menu of homemade pastas, traditional thin-crust pizzas,
soups, salads and delicious desserts, plus special daily of-
fers and seasonal additions and made from fresh ingredients.
The interior features iconic red-chequered tablecloths, a
huge brick oven, fantastic year-round heated garden full of
ristorante pizzeria caff
Krakw, ul. Starowilna 15A
Paac Pugetw
tel: 12 429 51 41
www.ilcalzone.pl
www.facebook.com/ilcalzone
e-mail: ilcalzone@ilcalzone.pl
HOURS OF OPERATION:
SUNDAY-THURSDAY
12 p.m.-10 p.m.
FRIDAY-SATURDAY
12 p.m.-12 a.m.
happy plants, and humorous photos which suggest that if
you interrupt an Italian while hes feeding himself, hell feed
you to the fishes (most likely the next time you sit down for
a meal). So mind your manners or make your peace, but if
youre having a final meal this is a worthy place to do it.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (15-49z). PTAGBW
Trzy Papryczki C-4, ul. Poselska 17, tel. (+48) 12
292 55 32, www.trzypapryczki.krakow.pl. This delicious
venture is certainly in the running for Krakws best pizza, and
most locals have already made up their minds that it is. Do
your dining in their knockout back garden during the warmer
months, or take to the dusky dining room complete with log
fire and wall frescoes. The pizza here can get seriously ex-
perimental with choices including roast turkey, almonds and
avocado, and the chef also extends his repertoire to cover
numerous Italian dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (17-29z).
TAGBSW
Bar Italiano C-3, ul. Floriaska 6, tel. (+48) 666 73 95
29, www.baritaliano.pl. With all the exclusive Italian eateries
choking the market (seriously, enough already), Bar Italiano
wisely keeps prices and expectations in check, putting all of
their pride and effort into their personable service and great
pizza. Made with fresh, delicious ingredients, if traditional
Italian thin crust isnt your style (yankee), you can double your
crust quotient for an extra zoty. Our calzone was larger than
the infant at the neighbouring table, and the coffee and des-
serts are cant miss as well. A great place to escape from the
crowds of Krakws tourist high street. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00,
Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. (19-35z). PAUGS
Da Pietro C-3, Rynek Gwny 17, tel. (+48) 12 422
32 79, www.dapietro.pl. Da Pietro laughs in the face of
every exclusive Italian restaurant to open in the Old Town in
the last few years. This veteran outfit (Krakws first Italian
restaurant) has ruled the Rynek for the last 20 years and con-
tinues to outclass the competition with its climate, quality and
even quantity. Portions are enormous, with signature dishes
like Ossobuco alla Milanese coming heaped with veal and
vegetables on saffron rice, accompanied by a tray of bread
and olive oil. As popular as the day it opened, a network of
large candlelit cellars decorated with black and white pictures
of Romes Colosseum await you inside (open from 12:30), or
enjoy the Rynek seating (open from 10:30) in warm weather.
QOpen 12:30 - 23:45. (23-54z). PTA6GBSW
Fabryka Pizzy (Pizza Factory) E-6, ul. Jzefa 34, tel.
(+48) 12 433 80 80, www.fabrykapizzy.pl. Often rated
as Krakws best pizza, Fabryka has expanded to a com-
manding four locations throughout the city since starting as
a project of students at the Economic University some years
ago. The secret isnt the pleasant wooden and brick interiors
or the slightly precious prices; clearly its in the ingredients
46
RESTAURANTS
47
RESTAURANTS
Japanese
Genji Premium Sushi D-5, ul. Dietla 55/1, tel.
(+48) 12 429 59 59, www.genji.pl. Whil e vi rtuall y
unheard of in Krakw a few years ago, Genji is the latest
in a line of raw fish flayers to come to town, and the high
quality food, prepared by Japanese sushi chefs, makes
an instant argument for itsel f as the cream of the local
crop. An upstairs sushi bar l eads to an intimate brick
downstairs dining area where each table occupies its own
room. Taking itsel f a bit too seriously to explain some of the
kitschy decor touches, the extensive menu of Korean and
Japanese dishes and expensive sushi sets also includes
condescending directions on how to eat your food. However
all is forgiven when it arrives, with eyebrow-raising prices
justi fied by the spot-on results. Premium indeed. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
(20-60z). TAVGSW
Kaze I-2, ul. Batorego 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 12 12.
Wi th the glut of Japanese restaurants in Krakw, finall y
heres a place that takes a di fferent approach. Specialis-
ing in Japanese hospi tali ty and home-cooking, sushi is
si delined wi th merel y a mention on Kazes large menu
that of fers vari ous meal sets consi sti ng of del i ci ous
miso soup, a main, ri ce and pi ckl ed cabbage. The help-
ful staf f are good for a suggestion and as a resul t our
syogayaki was spot-on. Located somewhat obscurel y
in a bri ck cellar, Kaze makes great use of whi te curtains
for privacy and bean bags for comfort, creating a relaxing
atmosphere wi thout any of the arti fi ce so often found
in sushi j oints. Already proving popular wi th the l ocals,
we weren t the onl y diners to l eave praising the staf f
and vowing to return. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (22-55z).
A6VGSW
Koji C- 4, ul. Poselska 18/1, tel. (+48) 12 422 52
66, www.kojisushi.pl. The art of Japanese cuisine is
on display in Koji where the skilled chefs work quickly to
create an extensive range of soups, sashimi, sushi sets,
hot mains and more. The menu helps novices decode
the di fferent styles with helpful photos, and goes beyond
tradi ti onal expectati ons wi th fusi on sushi sets that
include ingredients you wouldnt anticipate like sun-dried
tomatoes, olive tapenade and even guacamole. Our inari
was delicious and the Mint Carolina uramaki was delight-
fully refreshing. For dessert theres green tea flavoured ice
cream and creme brulee, as well as tea, sake, Japanese
beer and whisky to wash it down. Watch the chefs at work
from the bar inside the small modern interior or relax
in the seasonal back garden. Recommended. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (39-100z).
AGBSW
Kura ul. Jzefiska 4, tel. (+48) 883 35 36 07. This
small, trendy Japanese bistro in Podgrze is initially a bit of
a challenge, but fortunately the waitresses - in addition to
being exceptionally beautiful (stop staring) are exceedingly
helpful in explaining the Polish-only menu, which amounts
to a variety of ramen soups and dumplings, plus delicious
noodle, tempura, shrimp, salmon and chicken dishes. One
of the 55z multi-course dinner sets is the easy way out and
it even comes with authentic beer and dessert. The modern,
minimal design features a separate bamboo mat sitting
room, balsa wood lamps and an intimate table for the sushi
chef at the centre of the front room, but Kuras strengths
and refreshing appeal are in its non-sushi dishes, all of which
weve tasted have been light and delicious, right down to
the perfectly sticky rice. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (22-45z).
A6UGBSW
A typical breakfast in Poland usually consists of a ciga-
rette and maybe a coffee or juice. Unlike some western
countries where the direction of ones day seems to
superstitiously depend on the ability to eat a good break-
fast, here in PL the notion of starting the day right with
a fortifying meal just hasnt caught on. In fact ask five
Polish working girls what theyve had to eat that day come
13:00, and you can bet at least three of them havent
had more than a cup of yogurt, claiming theyre just not
hungry in the mornings. Mm-hmm... Hard-pressed as
you may be to find a proper breakfast in this town, fear
not - they do exist and weve provided the details of the
best below. Smacznego, champ.
Europejska C-3, Rynek Gwny 35, tel. (+48) 12
429 34 93, www.europejska.pl. The market square
location and comfortable, yet classy atmosphere of the
interior make Europejska a favourite of tourists and elder
ex-pats. The extensive breakfast menu satisfies a variety
of tastes with its set English, Polish and Vienna breakfast
platters (29-39z), with plenty of omlettes to choose from.
If youre not ready to take on a meal at this hour, the selec-
tion of coffee drinks and tortes will sweeten anyone up.
Q Breakfast served 08:00 - 12:30. PTAGSW
Le Scandale D-6, Pl. Nowy 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 68
55, www.lescandale.pl. One of the best early menus
available in Kazimierz, Scandale offers bagels with genuine
Philadelphia cream cheese, proper English and American
breakfast sets and a variety of large, fluffy omelettes - all
at bargain prices. Try their sister site - Scandale Royal (Pl.
Szczepaski 2, B-2) - to happily go beyond bread, spreads
and meat for breakfast in the Old Town. Q Breakfast
served 08:00 - 13:00. (9-19z). PTAUBXSW
Manzana D-6, ul. Miodowa 11, tel. (+48) 12 422
22 77, www.manzana.com.pl. Arguably the best week-
end brunch in town. With outstanding ala carte options
like breakfast burritos, huevos rancheros, pancakes with
maple syrup and bacon, and English or American style
fry-ups, you may not even be tempted by the breakfast
buffet featuring an assortment of meat and cheeses,
fruit and veggie salads, breads, beverages, musli and
more. Q Breakfast served 07:30 - 10:00; Sat, Sun
07:30 - 16:00. (14-29z). PTA6GSW
Met Cafe & Brasserie C-3, ul. Sawkowska 3,
tel. (+48) 12 421 98 03. Formerly known as Met-
ropolitan - the best place for breakfast in town - this
cosmopolitan venues reinvention simpli fies its offer
while focuses on its strengths. The breakfast card is
short but sweet with bagels, English breakfast (32z),
fluffy American pancakes (with real maple syrup, no less),
and even steak n eggs with hashbrowns. Served until
15:00, theres plenty of time to sleep in and still smell
the bacon. Q Breakfast served 07:00 - 15:00. (14-49z).
PTAGSW
Moment Resto E-6, ul. Estery 22, tel. (+48) 668
03 40 00, www.momentcafe.pl. If youre the breakfast
for dinner type, head to Moment where its served until
20:00. Their large breakfast sets (Classic, English, Polish,
French, Vegetarian, Fitness) are one of the best bargains
in town at 11-19z, including free refills of coffee or tea.
Q Breakfast served 09:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00
- 16:00. (11-19z). PTAGBSW
Breakfast
Krakw
ul. Poselska 18/1
tel.12 42 252 66
KOJI SUSHI JAPANESE
RESTAURANT
WE WELCOME YOU
WWW.KOJISUSHI.PL
48
RESTAURANTS
49
RESTAURANTS
Manzana D-6, ul. Miodowa 11, tel. (+48) 12 422 22
77, www.manzana.com.pl. From the same owner of the
esteemed (and thoroughly expat-approved) Metropolitan,
we personally prefer Manzana - its Latin sister in Kazimierz.
Manzanas New Latin concept cuisine consists of meat and
fish dishes alongside reinvented classics (the massive burritos
can be prepared a number of ways) served in a chic interior of
dark, glossy colours, an open kitchen and low-level Latin music.
Though the prices aim a bit high, the service and atmosphere
are comfortably relaxed, making Manzana the kind of place
youd want to frequent often. The daily specials encourage
you to do just that and the weekend brunch (served all day) is
legendary. Q Open 07:30 - 10:00, 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 07:30 -
24:00, Sun 07:30 - 23:00. (20-50z). PTA6GBSW
Pimiento E-6, ul. Jzefa 26, tel. (+48) 12 421 25 02,
www.pimiento.pl. Behind the gloss and sheen of Pimiento,
this place is about meat and little more; big unapologetic
hunks of it. Boasting of the best steaks in town, Pimiento
gets all their meat straight from Argentina, so if youve had
one too many Polish cutlets and want a proper steak, head
here. Prices appear steep until you remember how much a
good steak costs wherever you last had one, and a selection
of South American wines wash it down. A second location in
the Old Town at ul. Stolarska 13 (C-3, same hours). QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (42-110z). PTAUGSW
Mediterranean
Portofino E-6, ul. Wska 2, tel. (+48) 12 431 05 37,
www.portofino.pl. Italian food at a decent price served on
a quiet, atmospheric side street across from Kazimierzs
High Synagogue. With no pizzas clogging up the menu you
can expect good pasta and some wonderful tossed salads,
however the highlight of our last visit was the paella: certainly
the best in Krakw, if it even has any competition. Sit on the
terrace if you can; inside things get a bit more formal. Drop by
between 12:00 and 16:00 for a special lunch menu featuring
most of the menus entrees plus a soup starter for only 20z.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (17-59z). TA6UGBSW
Warsztat (The Workshop) E- 6, ul. Izaaka 3, tel.
(+48) 12 430 14 51, www.restauracjawarsztat.pl. This
little cafe/restaurant pretty much represents everything we
love about Kazimierz: a charmingly kooky, casual atmosphere
of effortless originality created by candlelight and a clutter
of battered musical instruments. The food - risottos, pasta,
salads, pizza and more - is generous in portioning and rich
in flavour without any notion that your wallet will be, making
Warsztat an excellent detour from the days agenda. Rec-
ommended. Also now at (D-6), ul. Boego Ciaa 1. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00. (15-43z). A6GBSW
Mexican
Alebriche A-1, ul. Karmelicka 56. In a town that should be
admonished for its awful Mexican food, Alebriche happily has
almost nothing in common with its competition, and heres
the simple difference: its actually owned and operated by a
local Mexican family (gasp!). Developing a cult following since
its opening, Alebriche sends local expats into ecstasy with its
simple, authentic, dirt-cheap Mexican eats. The menu includes
everything from huevos rancheros to flan, with nacho sets, spicy
soups, tamales, proper chicken mole and more in between. In
addition to margaritas and micheladas, this is the only place
in town where you can get horchata (our fave). A simple, but
bright, colourful interior full of photos and folk art confirms that
the focus is on food - so good youll be coming back until youve
tried everything on the menu. Recommended. QOpen 10:00 -
22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (13-30z). AGSW
Musso Sushi A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 23, tel. (+48)
500 11 79 15, www.mussosushi.pl. The 4-year pro-
gression of an Eastern Europe tourist market seems to go
something like this: Year one the city receives the moniker
The New Prague, year two a jillion hostels open, year three
a jillion clubs open, and year four - where Krakw currently
finds itself - its all sushi restaurants. Musso sushi seems
to benefit from those who came before by not having to try
so hard. The menu is more simple and straight-forward and
here the chefs (shaved-head Polish men that they are) are
actually brave enough to prepare your food right in front of you
on the other side of the long dark wooden bar which can seat
about 30 people on its three sides. They do a commendable
job and we actually find eating here to be more of a joy than
an exercise in pretension. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (25-100z).
PTAVGSW
Jewish
Ariel E-6, ul. Szeroka 17-18, tel. (+48) 12 421 79 20,
www.ariel-krakow.pl. Youll hear mixed reports emanating
from Ariel, and while our turkey steak was little better than
disappointing weve met more than a number of people extol-
ling the virtues of Ariels varied Jewish cuisine. The setting is
typical of the district, with antiques and heirlooms alluding to
the Kazimierz of yesteryear, and a set of rooms decorated
in a charmingly cluttered style. The live music is a popular
draw, though you may appreciate it less when you learn you
are being charged to listen to it. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (19-
78z). PTA6EBXSW
Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Long Ago in Ka-
zimierz) E-6, ul. Szeroka 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 17,
www.dawnotemu.nakazimierzu.pl. From the outside this
venue is disguised to look like a row of early 20th century
trade shops and is decorated with awnings relating to the
areas Jewish heritage. Things are no less colourful on the
inside with mannequins, sewing machines and carpenters
work surfaces adorning the interiors. A great attempt at
capturing the old Kazimierz spirit, and a must visit for those
tracing the districts past. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (21-49z).
A6EGBS
Klezmer Hois E-6, ul. Szeroka 6, tel. (+48) 12 411
12 45, www.klezmer.pl. Late 19th century dcor and a
jumble of rugs and paintings, the interior of Klezmer Hois
follows the Kazimierz code for interior design but its the
strong menu that keeps the staff busy and the restaurant
packed. We recommend the chicken in honey and ginger.
Each night stirring music recitals keep the crowds amused
and the wine flowing. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (19-59z).
TA6UEGBSW
Latin American
Diego & Bohumil C-5, ul. w. Sebastiana 6, tel. (+48)
12 426 01 01. Two enterprising friends have consummated
the strange marriage of their strikingly di fferent national
cuisines in the form of Diego i Bohumil - Krakws unique
Argentinean-Czech restaurant. The menu is an even split
of dishes from the two countries and is available in English,
making it all the easier to evaluate ordering Argentinean
highlights (like empanadas) other than the steak - still a
reliably fantastic value at 45z. Located on a quiet street
midway between the Old Town and Kazimierz, enjoy the range
of Argentinean wines in the simple interior, where images of
gauchos and tangoing couples adorn the walls alongside
characters from Czech folklore. Great food and great prices
have made DiB a favourite. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (16-65z).
TIGBSW
50
RESTAURANTS
Czerwone Korale C-2, ul. Sawkowska 13-15, tel.
(+48) 12 430 61 08, www.czerwonekorale.eu. This
tradi tional Polish restaurant may have the disadvantage
of being discreet from the street, but the interior is one
of the most vi brant and wel coming in the Ol d Town. Un-
like others of i ts ilk, here the simpl e, but charming folk
decor favours col our over clutter: cheer ful chandeli ers
wrapped in wicker wreaths wound with bright ribbons and
beads hang from arched red ceilings, gi ving the two din-
ing rooms (don t miss the beauti ful banquet room in the
back) a warm gl ow, whil e photos of dancing hi ghlanders
and peasant maidens froli cking in folk costumes line the
walls. Even more col our comes from the ki tchen, whi ch
serves all the Polish standards, but wi th some creati ve
i nnovati ons and a flai r for presentati on that we were
hardl y expecting. Theres an entire page of vegetarian
dishes (!) and the overall quali ty of the food makes Cz-
erwone Koral e not onl y a pl easant surprise, but also a
great value. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
(17-39z). PTUGBS
NEW
Gocinna Chata C-2, ul. Sawkowska 10, tel. (+48)
12 423 76 76, www.ramis.pl/karczma-krakow.html.
This warm venue specialises in Lemko cuisine - Lemko
being a small ethnic sub-group of Carpathian Mountain
peopl e from what i s today eastern PL, north-eastern
Slovakia and western Ukraine. Beyond that its compli-
cated and all you need know is that despite being out of
place, Gocinna Chata doesnt stop short in striving for
the atmosphere and hospi tali ty of a tradi tional village
tavern. From the sturdy ti mber furnishings to the folk
moti fs and fabri cs, i ts all here, i ncl udi ng surprisi ngl y
pleasant folk music and wait staff in folk dress. While the
identi fication of a speci fic region of PL does help focus
and identi fy GC from other traditional Polish restaurants
in town, it doesnt really separate them; what we learned
about Lemkos is that their food - presented to patrons
on a wooden board - is only a subtly di fferent take on the
same local fare available everywhere: simple and filling,
stodgy but tasty. Smacznego. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(14-54z). PTA6UBSW
Haweka C- 3, Rynek Gwny 34, tel. (+48) 12 422
06 31, www.hawelka.pl. Krakws moved on, but
Haweka hasn t. I f you want to experi ence the Krakw
of ol de, thi s enduri ng, achi ngl y formal hol dover i s the
pl ace to do i t, j ust l i ke Queen El i sabeth I I, the Ki ng of
Greece and numerous Austro-Hungari an Archdukes
before them di d at one ti me. The menu i s an encycl o-
paedi c choi ce of tradi ti onal Polish game and fish dishes
served wi thout i nterrupti on or rei nventi on si nce 1876,
and the di ni ng room i s a very green (popul ar col our i n
those days) tri p back to the turn of the 20th century
wi th a reproducti on of Jan Matej kos massi ve Prus-
si an Homage l oomi ng over the proceedi ngs - perhaps
the onl y i nauthenti c thi ng about havi ng a meal i n thi s
l egendary l ocal i nsti tuti on. QOpen 11:00 - 22:45. (20-
69z). PTA6EBXSW
Jarema D-1, Pl. Matejki 5, tel. (+48) 12 429 36
69, www.jarema.pl. Cl assy Eastern Pol i sh and other
di shes from the regi on i n a sl i ghtl y ostentati ous, 19th-
centur y set ti ng. Wai tresses i n tradi ti onal costume
ser ve from a l arge menu i ncl udi ng steak wi th quai l
eggs, a few vegetari an di shes, pheasant and wi l d boar.
Despi te the harki ng back to the good ol d days, thi s
i s not your cl assi c touri st trap. Hi ghl y recommended.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (18-55z). PTA6UIV
EGSW
The Mexican C-2, ul. Floriaska 34, tel. (+48) 500
10 31 00, www.mexican.pl. Further proof of Polands
nai vete towards Mexican cuisine, this franchise finall y
arri ves in Krakw after tying i ts mul e to posts in fi ve
other Polish cities prior (thats the sound of us smacking
our foreheads). Gimmicks include busty Polish senioritas
wi th exposed bel l i es sl i ngi ng tequi l a shots from the
bottl e holstered to their bel ts, li ght fi xtures fashioned
from Desperados bottles, and Wanted posters featur-
ing sombreroed patrons tacked everywhere. As for food
and drink, all dishes come with pickled cabbage and the
margaritas are rimmed with sugar, so forget authenticity.
Still, this colourful, over-priced cantina could be great fun
for a group piss-up, and though the placebo doesnt work
on us, all the snogging couples would suggest its a proven
date destination. Ay carumba. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (20-
50z). TA6EBXS
Polish
Bar Smak B-2, ul. Karmelicka 10, tel. (+48) 12
431 21 49. Brilliant. Not at the top of anyones list for
a ni ght of fine dining, that is not the point of Bar Smak.
Instead this is a l ocal place for l ocal peopl e who cram
around the wooden tabl es to eat huge portions of well -
l oved standards, from cheap pi erogi to excell ent bi gos
to great bi g gol onka. Order from the board or ask for an
English menu. Set meals of soup, a si de, potatoes and a
main go for 16z, meaning you can eat like a Polish king
for peanuts. Open late and we l ove i t. QOpen 11:00 -
22:00. (10-16z). T6UGS
Chopskie Jado C-3, ul. w. Jana 3, tel. (+48) 12
429 51 57, www.chlopskiejadlo.pl. One of the most well-
known and long-running Polish food franchises, Chopskie
Jado is a reliable romp through the glories of Polish peas-
ant cooking, and a popular choice for tourist groups. Once
known for their blue country cottage interiors, a recent
re-branding has preserved the atmosphere of 19th century
village li fe created by the collection of rustic furnishings,
farming machinery, folk music and moti fs - not to mention
staff members kitted out as saucy country wenches - while
modernising it to look less like an old-fashioned museum.
The fresh red and beige colour palette brings a brightness
and levity that was previously lacking, and somehow makes
the lengthy menu of stodgy peasant dishes more palatable,
despite portions being as gut-busting as ever. Also at ul. w.
Agnieszki 1 (C-6, open 12:00-22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00).
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. (12-65z).
PTAUGS
C.K. Browar B-2, ul. Podwale 6-7, tel. (+48) 12 429
25 05, www.ckbrowar.krakow.pl. For over fifteen years
and counting this huge and rowdy Old Town cellar has been
Krakws primary microbrewery, pouring fresh, unfiltered and
unpasteurized Light, Ginger, Dunkel and Weizen ales straight
from the tank into your mug. As if that werent enough to have
you plotting your route, theres also a restaurant and disco
in this underground complex, making it that much harder to
find the daylight again once youve descended those stairs.
Lads will love the beer hall atmosphere and sports on the
tube, plus the added attraction of getting the home-brew
served in a tall glass pipe with its own private tap on your
table. To really go whole hog, reserve the classic Hunters
Room - a beautiful banquet space with fine wood panelling
and plenty of antlers - and feast in style on traditional Polish
and Austrian dishes done right. Best of all, the prices dont
seem to have changed since the day they opened, making the
food a great bargain. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
01:00. (18-65z). PTA6EGBSW
52
RESTAURANTS
53
RESTAURANTS
ever-popul ar and dul y prai sed Mi d Mal i na conti nues
to expand. Si ster eater y Marmol ada of fers del i ci ous
l ocal Ma opol ska del i caci es, per f ect l y pr epar ed
and fi red for a few mi nutes i n a l arge stone oven
before arri vi ng at your tabl e. Narrow, yet l ong and
cavernous, Marmol ada uti l i ses fl oral fol k pat terns,
canopi ed cei l i ngs, bi g ti mber tabl es and poi nset tas
to create thei r uni que combi nati on of a comfor tabl e
l ocal atmosphere and l ow pri ces wi th great food and
ser vi ce. Go el egant on Grodzka, j ust doors down from
the ci tys most excl usi ve restaurant ( Wi erzynek), and
you can l eave wi th a bi l l that l ess than hal f the si ze.
Q Open 07: 00 - 11: 00, 12: 00 - 23: 00. (17- 54z ).
PTAUEGSW
Milkbar Tomasza D- 3, ul. w. Tomasza 24, tel.
(+48) 12 422 17 06. A moderni sati on of the cl assi c
Pol i sh cafeteri a, the mantra of Pol i sh/I ri sh-owned Mi l k
Bar mi ght be that cheap, sl ow-cooked Pol i sh food need
not be unappeal i ng, l ack fl avour, or served i n cramped,
uncl ean surroundi ngs. Hardl y a rei nventi on of l ocal cui -
si ne, Mi l k Bar pays proper respect to i ts cul i nary roots
(take our mi l ky pi ckl e soup wi th ri ce for exampl e - onl y
a Pol i sh mi nd coul d concei ve such a thi ng), swappi ng
sl i ppered granni es for a staf f of cute students and
i nsti tuti onal i nteri ors for a bi t of col our and wal l -l ength
wi ndows. The dai l y speci al (18z) i ncl udes soup and
entree and gi ves you three opti ons of each to choose
from, or sel ect from the set chal kboard menu of pi erogi,
potato pancakes, crepes, bagels and breakfast options.
Comfor t, cl eanl i ness and taste are wor th the extra
5z i n our opi ni on. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 -
21:00. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. From
May open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (10-18z).
PTAUGSW
Mi d i Wi no (Honey and Wi ne) C- 2, ul .
Sawkowska 32, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 95, www.
miodiwino.pl. Champion dishes of traditional Polish fare
in a setting piled as high as the food with muskets, antlers
and sui ts of armour. All extras (vegetabl es, bread) cost
extra, and youll need to explain cl earl y how you expect
your meat to be cooked; but the fl ai r of the servi ce,
quali ty of the food and fondness of the folk musi cians
playing full force nearby create a fun atmosphere thats
compl etel y worth being in. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (20-
80z). PTAUEXS
Mid Malina (Honey Raspberry) C-4, ul. Grodzka
40, tel. (+48) 12 430 04 11, www.miodmalina.pl. Con-
sistently excellent meals have seen Mid Malina establish
themselves as one of the top restaurants in town, so book
ahead if you fancy taking in the Grodzka views afforded by
the raised window-side seating. This cheerful looking res-
taurant comes with raspberries painted onto the walls and
a pleasing glow that illuminates the darker evenings. Floral
touches aplenty here, lending a storybook, candy cottage
atmosphere, while the menu mixes up the best of Polish and
Italian cooking. The prices remain pegged generously low
making a visit here not just recommended (as the Michelin
Guide 2012 did) but essential. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-
60z). PTAUGSW
Morskie Oko B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 8, tel. (+48) 12
431 24 23, www.morskieoko.krakow.pl. Morskie Oko
aims to capture the mountain spirit of Zakopane so theres
plenty of primitive looking furniture, waitresses with bits
bursting out of tradtional costume and regular live bands
making a racket. The food is caveman in style, delicious
hunks of grilled animals. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (18-45z).
PTAEGSW
Traditional Polish food in modern form
Polish Restaurant
Open: Sun-Thu 12.00 - 22.00, Fri-Sat 12.00 - 24.00
a/ /amkomaka !3-!5 J+akm le/ !2 30-!-08 mmmcje+moneko+a/eea
Pieroki u Vincenta D- 6, ul. Boego Ciaa 12, tel.
(+48) 506 80 63 04, www.pierozkiuvincenta.com.
pl. A great place to introduce yoursel f to this national
stapl e, though U Vincentas version rises above the or-
dinary. Though i t may be impossi bl e to reinvent a food
as versatil e as the pi erogi, this veteran establishment
has tri ed wi th appl e and li ver, minced lamb, chi cken and
spinach, and broccoli and feta among the 30 di f ferent
options. Get a mixed-batch to share with a friend, and top
i t of f wi th your choi ce of a vari ety of sauces and extras.
Popular, cheap and cheer ful (thanks to a sunfl owered,
starry-ni ghted Van Gogh interior), takeaway may be your
best option at peak feed times. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.
(9-18z). AGS
Pod Ani o ami (Under the Angel ) C- 4, ul .
Grodzka 35, tel. (+48) 12 421 39 99, www.po-
daniolami.pl. For a taste of Pol i sh medi eval cui si ne,
experi ence thi s charmi ng spot under the angel s. As
you enter you fi nd yoursel f i mmersed i n a cavernous,
monasti c-li ke, candl e-li t haven that has a very cosy and
engagi ng atmosphere and an unexpected warmth i n
some pl aces two ful l l evel s under the ol d Royal Route.
They have two transparent and open oven-gri l l s al ong
wi th di spl ays for the mai n entree i ngredi ents so you
can watch the creati on of your meal from begi nni ng
to end. Among the wi ndi ng corri dors reputedl y bui l t
i n the 13th Centur y you wi l l fi nd a year-round open
garden and fountai n, casks and medi eval styl e wooden
furni shi ngs, and a few hi dden bars so you needn t wai t
for your dri nks to descend to your depths. The menu
i ncl udes massi ve meal s for up to 35 peopl e, and has
nearl y ever ythi ng i magi nabl e that i s smoked, gri l l ed,
or tradi ti onal l y Pol i sh. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. (27-70z).
PTA6GBSW
Kawaleria Szara Smaku (Cavalry) B-3, ul. Gobia
4, tel. (+48) 12 430 24 32, www.kawaleria.com.pl.
Three spacious rooms decorated with an equine motif - paint-
ings of Cossacks and jockeys hang alongside sabres and
hunting trophies - include a large fireplace and lush seasonal
garden. The menu changes seasonally, but represents a
strong review of upmarket Polish game dishes with some
vegetarian dishes included as well. For kids theres not only
a special menu, but an entire fun corner with a toy chest
and rocking horse. Kawalerias excellent food, service and
value have been recognised by many, most recently a tyre
company called Michelin. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (18-55z).
PTAUGBSW
Kogel Mogel C-3, ul. Sienna 12, tel. (+48) 12 426
49 68, www.kogel-mogel.pl. With fine table settings,
very attentive service, PRL era music and plenty of red
carnations (including some impressive carnation chan-
deliers), this nostalgic effort evokes the atmosphere of
an old school eatery for the communist elite - something
akin to an upscale 1970s hotel restaurant from what we
can tell. Named after a Soviet-era childrens dessert of
whipped eggs and sugar (poor kids), Kogel Mogels clever
newspaper-style menu bursts with wit and creativity, and
is now happily available in English, German and Russian.
Consisting of proletariat Polish classics, note that you
need to order si des separatel y. Meal s are preceded
by pi ckl es, bread and lard spread, and the kompot is
delicious. Enjoy joining the Party. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(17-48z). PTAEGSW
Marmol ada C- 3, ul . Grodzka 5, tel . (+48) 12
396 49 46, www.marmoladarestauracja.pl. Whi l e
Kr akw s super- satur ated rest aur ant mar ket has
seen pl ent y of tanki ngs of l ate, the team behi nd the
54
RESTAURANTS
55
RESTAURANTS
Cracovian Cuisine, P-Z
Pierogi
Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie),
sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, strawber-
ries or plums, though you will find plenty of maverick fillings
like broccoli, chocolate or liver as the possibilities are truly
limitless. The standards are served almost everywhere in
the city; head to Pieroki U Vincenta or Zapiecek for a
more expansive selection.
Placki
These greasy, fried potato pancakes (placki ziemniac-
zane) are very similar to Jewish latkes (i f that means
anything to you) and ideal for meatless winter days. Served
with sauce, goulash or simply sour cream on top, placki
are a great hangover cure and youll find them on menus
everywhere. U Babci Malinys Placki po Wgiersku
is generally accepted as one of the most delicious and
highly-caloric meals youll ever have anywhere in your life.
Soup
Poland has three signature soups: barszcz, urek and
flaki. A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served
with potatoes and veggies tossed in, with a croquette or
miniature pierogi floating in it, or simply as broth in a mug
expressly for drinking. A recommended alternative to other
beverages with any winter meal, wed be surprised if you
can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Krakw. It doesnt
get any more Polish than urek a unique sour rye soup
with sausage, potatoes and sometimes egg chucked in.
Our vote goes to Bar Smak but you also cant beat We-
seles batch eaten out of a breadbowl. If youre of strong
constitution and feeling truly adventurous, spring for flaki
beef tripe soup enriched with veggies, herbs and spices.
A hearty standby in most kitchens, we personally save the
pleasure for compromising situations involving mother-in-
laws, but you can take your chances at Chopskie Jado.
Smalec
Vegetarians who broke their vows for a bite of sausage
or a taste of urek generally draw the line here. An animal
fat spread full of fried lard chunks (the more the better, we
say) and served with hunks of homemade bread, Smalec
is a savoury snack that goes great with a mug of beer. Any
traditional Polish restaurant worth its salt should give you
lashings of this prior to your meal; weve had the best at
Pod Baranem, or buy your own at Krakowskie Kredens.
Zapiekanka
The ultimate Polish drunk food. Order one at any train station
in PL and youll get half a stale baguette covered with mush-
rooms and cheese, thrown in a toaster oven and squirted
with ketchup. Underwhelming to say the least. However the
vendors of Kazimierzs Plac Nowy (D-6) have made a true
art out of the Polish pizza. With endless add-ons (including
salami, spinach, smoked cheese, pickles, pineapple, feta
you name it), garlic sauce and chives have become standard
procedure at this point. Because of their popularity youll
witness ridiculous lines at the various windows around the
roundhouse, but the wait is worth it. At 8-10z its a great value
and will sustain you through a night of heavy drinking. To leave
town without having tried a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be
felonious, as would settling for one anywhere else in Krakw.
Cracovian Cuisine, A-O
Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and almost
uni formly off-white in colour. You simply havent had a
thorough sampling of it until youve tried all the traditional
dishes below. Though most can be found at almost any
Polish restaurant or bar mleczny in town, weve given you
our picks of the litter, making your stomach a happy camper
and keeping its contents intact. Smacznego!
Bigos
Traditionally a winter dish, Bigos is a hearty stew made in
large batches. Though there is no standard recipe, ingre-
dients usually include lots of fresh and pickled cabbage,
leftover meat parts and sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic
and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically Bigos
translates to big mess, confusion or trouble in Polish.
Seasoned with peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and
the kitchen sink, the stew is left to gestate, sometimes
underground, for a few days for full flavour infusion. A Pol-
ish restaurant or prospective wife can be fairly measured
on the strength of their Bigos; weve had the best at Mid
Malina, Bar Smak and Kamils moms house.
Gobki
Translating to little pigeons, this favourite dish consists
of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice
before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom
sauce. Polish legend claims King Kazimierz fed his army
gobki before a battl e outside Mal bork against the
Teutonic Order, and their unlikely subsequent victory has
been attributed to the hearty meal ever since. Bolster your
own courage at Pod Baranem or try the creative veggie
versions at Vega Bar.
Golonka
Pork knuckle or hock, as in pigs thigh, boiled, braised, or
generally roasted and put before you on a plate. A true
Polish delicacy, youd be best served to buy it at a roadside
stand as youre driving through the countryside, but there
are a few places in Krakw that have proven peerless when
it comes to pork hocks: Kawaleria where its served with
pepper sauce, and Pod Wawelem where the servings slip
right off the bone and are so impossibly large wed prefer
not to know where they came from.
Kiebasa
Sausages, and in Poland youll find several varieties
made primarily with pork, but sometimes using turkey,
horse, lamb and even bison. There are a few varieties
to watch for including Krakowska, a Krakw specialty
seasoned with pepper and garlic; Kabanosy, a thin, dry
sausage flavoured with caraway seed; and Kaszanka, a
blood sausage filled with groats and pigs blood. These
youll find in any delikatesy or butcher shop, but head to
Kiebasa z Rozna at the Hala Targowa marketplace (E-
4) between 20:00 and 03:00 to get a taste of Krakws
most famous sausage. Here, two old-timers have been
serving sausage out of a van, cooking it over a wood-
stoked grill, since time immemorial at this hall owed
sidewalk stand.
Naleniki
The Polish equivalent of French crepes, these are thin
pancakes wrapped around pretty much any filling you can
dream of, savoury or sweet. Generally the easy way out in
any dodgy Polish dining establishment.
56
RESTAURANTS
57
RESTAURANTS
Stara Zajezdnia (The Old Depot) E- 6, ul. w.
Wawrzyca 12, tel. (+48) 664 32 39 88, www.sta-
razajezdniakrakow.pl. After spending decades completely
abandoned, this old tram depot (across from the Transporta-
tion Museum) has assumed a second life as Krakws biggest
brewery and beer hall. A large complex of cavernous brick and
timber buildings, Stara Zajezdnia sadly suffers for its size,
however, and the impressive main hall - which features the
citys longest bar - has already been deemed too impractical
to open for group reservations of less than 100. The smaller
out-building that presently serves as the main dining hall can
still feel pretty lonely without a large party on hand, but if you
happen to be in one, do bring it here. Flat screens are on hand
for football and the porter, wheat, lager and honey ales do well
to wash down the ribs, pork knuckle and other tasty traditional
fare tailored to complement the on-site brewed beer. Once
that pops your buttons, dont overlook the separate menu of
single cask, single malt whiskies - a first for Krakw - if you
want to beat your friends in the race to be first under the table.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. PAGW
Starka D-6, ul. Jzefa 14, tel. (+48) 12 430 65 38,
www.starka.com.pl. If you want to try great Polish food
without eating in a medieval cellar or barnyard interior, then
seek out Starka, whose classic, dark interior with its timber
ceiling and bar crammed full of coloured bottles more re-
sembles a 19th century pub, thanks in part to the caricatures
by Heinrich Zille that cover the walls. Famed for its in-house
flavoured vodka concoctions, you cant leave without trying a
few, but be wary that you dont spoil your appetite. The menu
of perfectly prepared Polish food ranges from boneless pork
knuckle to rabbit loin wrapped in bacon and is a great value
for your money. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
(26-64z). PTAGSW
Polakowski D- 6, ul. Miodowa 39, tel. (+48) 12
421 07 76, www.polakowski.com.pl. The defi ni -
ti ve l ocal di ni ng experi ence. Joi n the queue and order
bi g pl ates of pi pi ng hot food di shed up from metal
contai ners, before bussi ng your di shes to the wash-up
wi ndow. Choose from the l i kes of cutl ets wi th mashed
potatoes, spi nach or beet sal ad si des, soups, pi erogi
and other ti mel ess cl assi cs. Far bet ter than i t l ooks
or sounds, Pol akowski i s an edi tori al fave. Essenti al l y
an upmarket mi l k bar thi s pl ace has gone the extra
yard (or j usti fi ed the extra zl ot y) by addi ng a toi l et
and Engl i sh l anguage menu. Al so on Pl . Wszystki ch
wi t ych 10 (C- 4), ul . Mogi l ska 35 (K-2) and i n M1
( Al . Pokoj u 67) . QOpen 09: 00 - 22: 00. ( 8-18z ) .
PTA6GS
Restauracj a Gessl er we Francuski m C- 2,
ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 12 627 37 49, www.
hotel - f rancuski.com. Taki ng the hel m of the Fran-
cuski Hotel , Pol i sh star restaurateur Adam Gessl er
has created one of the most i mpressi ve and popul ar
pl aces i n t own. Di ngy, unf i ni shed wal l s cont r ast
wi t h t he ol de- wor l d over- t he- top ser vi ce of whi te
sui t- j acketed gentl emen who ser ve ever yt hi ng at
your tabl e, even prepari ng some of i t i n front of you
from the l abori ous mi nci ng of the steak tar tare to
the fi ri ng of the sugar gl aze on the creme brul ee,
al l whi l e a pi ani st ti ckl es i vori es i n the corner. The
set three- course Espresso Lunch (ser ved Mon-Sat
12: 00-16: 00) i s a fantasti c oppor tuni ty to experi ence
hi gh soci et y i nter-war el egance for a shocki ng 20z.
As such, thi s pl ace i s packed and we are total l y on
board. Q Open 07: 00 - 11: 00, 12: 00 - 24: 00. (40-
60z). PTAUEGSW
Heaven! Fantastic food,
excellent wine, great service.
In one word: PERFECT!
Maria - London
Krakw
ul. Grodzka 5
tel. +48 12 396 49 46
www.marmoladarestauracja.pl
BEST
PLACE
TO EAT
Pod Baranem C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 21, tel. (+48) 12
429 40 22, www.podbaranem.com. An admirable estab-
lishment near Wawel Castle, the interior of exposed brick and
wooden ceiling beams, a fireplace and skilful mural of Krakw
in one of the rooms, offset by framed photos of family and
guests on the walls, creates a truly comfortable and classy
dining environment. Serving Polish standards including cream
of wild mushroom soup in a bread-bowl, the menu features
more meat than youll find at a livestock market, with deer
and wild boar getting into the menagerie as well. Our shred-
ded pork wrapped in cabbage leaves with mushroom sauce
left us more than satisfied, but the true standout was the
complimentary pre-meal smalec and bread - maybe the
best weve tasted in Krakw. For those stricken with food
allergies, this is one of the only places in town to offer gluten-
free meals, of which their menu dedicates a page. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (19-67z). PTAIXS
Pod Wawelem C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48)
12 421 23 36, www.podwawelem.eu. The place to visit if
youre looking to hit your daily calorie quota in one meal. Huge
portions of acceptable food helped by enormous amounts
of veg, cascade off the steel pans and wooden boards
theyre served on, while uni formed staff weave between
the bench seating serving frothing steins of lager. Great
for groups and families, kids have their own large rumpus
area, while the grown-ups soak up the beer hall atmosphere
shouting over energetic live folk music. Litre beers are en-
couraged and half-price on Mondays, and theres a handy
vomitorium in the mens room - i.e, two enormous steel
basins for those suffering from over-consumption to hock
their recently imbibed pork hocks. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30,
12:00 - 24:00, Sun 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00. (16-60z).
PTAUEGBSW
U Babci Maliny C-2, ul. Sawkowska 17, tel. (+48)
12 422 76 01, www.kuchniaubabcimaliny.pl. Entering
this hidden cellar through the courtyard of a building on the
corner of Sawkowska and w. Marka streets, youll descend
the stairs and greet a crossword-puzzled babcia who decides
i f you can enter this kitschy country cottage of wooden
benches slung with sheep hides. Youll be grateful to have
garnered her approval once youve tried the soups served
in breadbowls and pierogi served on breadplates (really), to
make no mention of the city-famous placki po wgiersku - an
enormous plate of potato pancakes smothered in goulash,
cheese and sour cream. With budget prices for outland-
ishly large and delicious servings, this should be a go-to for
anyone being introduced to Polish food...or who hasnt eaten
in three days. Also with a location at ul. Szpitalna 38 (D-2).
QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (12-25z).
PTAIVEGS
Wentzl Magda Gessler C-3, Rynek Gwny 19, tel.
(+48) 12 429 52 99, www.restauracjawentzl.pl. In
the upstairs of a 15th century building on Krakws market
square (nice view, huh?), the Wentzl restaurant itself can
trace its history back to the 18th century, and added a
new chapter when PLs culinary first lady, Magda Gessler,
re-branded the restaurant in March 2012. Swapping dusty
oil paintings for fresh flowers, flowing curtains and pastel
colours, the new Gesslered interior is bright, full of energy
and looks a bit like an Easter egg year round. We prefer her
culinary sense: with a knack for elevating traditional cuisine
to new artistic heights, the menu features creative dishes like
crispy foie gras with strawberry salad and duck stuffed with
nuts on gingerbread. The flavours are wonderful and well
eat at Pani Gesslers table any time. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(38-118z). PTAUGW
58
RESTAURANTS
59
RESTAURANTS
guitarist and all around swell guy Yury Beychuk takes turns with
another musician serenading diners on Saturday evenings at
20:00. The interior is full of festive drapes and tablecloths, ornate
murals, candles and crummy folk paintings, and you can expect to
find some fur on the coat-rack. Thoroughly authentic and affordable.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (13-55z). PTA6EGBSW
Seafood
Farina C-2, ul. w. Marka 16 (corner of ul. w. Jana),
tel. (+48) 12 422 16 80, www.farina.com.pl. Homemade
pastas and great fish dishes have won Farina a devoted local
following and industry accolades. The aromatic, high-quality
Polish and Mediterranean cuisine is matched by the setting:
three bright, breezy rooms decorated in a comfortable,
homey style fitted with unfinished wood. The best time to visit
Farina is between Thursday and Sunday when the seafood
and oysters, imported from Brittany and Italy, are the most
fresh. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (30-89z). PTAXSW
Spanish
NEW
Casa Juan B-2, ul. Karmelicka 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 07 70.
Casa Juan sounds a bit more casual than the reality of this rather
refined (and slightly stuffy) cellar opposite Teatr Bagatella, which
overcomes competition from the garden dining upstairs and Roman
columns left over from past restaurant incarnations with festive
Spanish colours and sun-soaked photos. The food is just as infused
with flavour as the images on the wall, and Casa Juan cleverly side-
steps the conceit of trendy tapas bars by offering honest Spanish
home-cooking - the kind that keeps you at the table a long time
and lovingly lulls you into siesta. Choose your wine from the line of
bottles atop the dark wainscoting next to your table and let the
evening unwind. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (29-59z). PTGS
Wesele C-3, Rynek Gwny 10, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 60,
www.weselerestauracja.pl. This warm, timber-framed,
two-level eatery is one of the most popular on the market
square thanks to a reputation built on Michelin recommen-
dations, friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere.
If your Polish is about as good as your Chinese, the name
wesele refers to the lengthy celebration of family, food,
love and vodka that takes place after a traditional Polish
wedding service, and if this place werent full of tourists all
the clinking glasses and smiling faces might make you think
youd actually crashed a Polish wedding party. The menu is
classic Polish cooking done exactly the way it was meant,
and the goose breast is fabulous. We recommend it also.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (17-68z). PTAUEGSW
Wierzynek C-3, Rynek Gwny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424
96 00, www.wierzynek.pl. Quite a launch party this place:
according to legend the opening night back in 1364 was at-
tended by five kings and nine princes. Since then its been one
esteemed guest after another, with former diners including De
Gaulle, Bush, Castro and other bods who influence the way
the globe spins, as well as starlets like Sophie Marceau and
Kate Moss. A set of wooden stairs lead to a series of impos-
ing rooms decked out with tapestries and plantlife while a
seriously high-end menu includes pike perch flamed in mead.
QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (38-128z). PTAEXSW
Zbjcy w Paacu (Thieves in the Palace) B-3, Rynek
Gwny 27, tel. (+48) 12 422 55 52. Located opposite the
Pod Baranami cinema in the high-ceilinged palace of the same
name, this curiously decorated restaurant seems to follow the
amusing, but somewhat hard to grasp premise of its name
by looking part rustic tavern (shaggy sheepskins on timber
benches) and part aristocratic abode (fine china cabinets
and bookshelf murals). The waitstaff are colourfully attired
either as chefs or highlander highwaymen (our interpreta-
tion), but perfectly behaved, begging not the question whos
running this show?, but rather Whats for dinner? To answer
wed advise ordering the delicious garlic soup (with croutons,
sausage and a fried egg), and considering the menus biggest
surprise - deer in gingerbread sauce, with homemade noodles
and beets. Also note that the one-person Polish plate - a
clever way to try all the greasy standards of Polish cooking
for only 39z - is in fact plenty of food to share between two
people (at least by the standards of our stomach). QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (20-50z). PTAUGBSW
Zoty Piec (The Golden Oven) C-3, Rynek Gwny 10
(Pasa Bielaka), tel. (+48) 606 66 64 96, www.zlotypiec.
pl. Part of what we hope will be a continuing trend to improve this
rather haggard passage between the Rynek and ul. Stolarska,
Zoty Piec has gotten the ball rolling with this classy, innovative
effort. For want of any actual interior dining space, this Polish/
Italian eatery has essentially built a smart, simple, open-air ter-
race (covered in winter) adjoining a bar and the wood-fired pizza
oven they use to bake their excellent pizzas. From somewhere
the above-average food emerges - sour rye soup in a bread
bowl, homemade dumplings, baked sheep cheese - and the
pre-meal smalec (lard spread) is amazing. With white drapes
and a retractable roof for when the rain comes, the setting is
both casual and elegant, and enhanced by charming service.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (19-49z). TAGBW
Russian
Winiowy Sad C-4, ul. Grodzka 33, tel. (+48) 12 430 21
11, www.kuchniarosyjska.com. Winiowy Sad offers Russian,
Ukrainian and Caucasus specialities like lamb dumplings, caviar
blini, pelmieni dried squid beer snacks and a borscht that would
rival that of the villages best babushka. Part-time chef, classical
Plac Szczepaski 8
31-011 Krakw
tel. +48 12 43 12 423
www.morskieoko.krakow.pl
morskieoko@morskieoko.krakow.pl
Morskie Oko Restaurant located at Szczepaski Square 8 in a beautiful
Art Noveau house of ers Polish Highland
atmosphere unique to Krakw.
T e delicious Polish regional cuisine, live folk
Polish music and unique wooden highland
interior will make you feel like in the heart
of the Tatra Mountains.
Augusta E-7, Bulwar Kurlandzki, tel. (+48) 728 52
94 13, www.restauracjaaugusta.pl. This imposingly
large and modern river barge makes the neighbouring Barka
docked next door seem modest and outmoded. In terms of
riverboat dining, Augusta is as contemporary as it gets, with
a stylish and surprisingly spacious post-industrial design of
polished aluminium and glass letting in plenty of natural light.
Augustas two enviable sun decks can seat up to 60 people
combined, every interior table comes with a great view, and
somehow its all handicap accessible, even boasting an
elevator; honestly, the effect isnt unlike an upscale hotel
restaurant on the water. As such the service is top-notch and
youd be silly to skip over the Mediterranean-inspired menu,
featuring tuna tartare and beef cheeks in wine sauce.QOpen
10:00 - 23:00. (20-60z). PTA6UGBSW
Barka Food, Life, Music E-7, Bulwar Kurlandzki
(near the terminus of ul. Gazowa), tel. (+48) 668 82
04 54, www.alrina.pl. If youre thinking of boarding one
of the several dining vessels along the Wisa River, make
it Barka. This Dutch cargo barge dates back to 1889
and was once significant enough to the history of water
transport to be featured on a Dutch postage stamp. Since
then it has been modernised by Polish craftsmen with thrill-
ing results. Descend into the spacious hold refitted with
wooden floors, a sculpted bar, fireplace and skylights that
let in plenty of natural light. The cocktail and wine lists are
duly impressive, and the menu of creative designer food is
thoroughly enjoyable. Utterly elegant and skillfully stylish,
climb aboard and become an instant socialite.QOpen
12:00 - 22:30. (26-50z). PTA6EGSW
Riverboat Dining
Spring ushers in the arrival of not only fair weather to
Poland, but also the countrys National Holiday Season,
which in addition to Easter offers two other dates to note
down in the diary:
Fi rst up i s May 1st, otherwise known as Labour
Day, and a direct leftover from the communist lurch.
In those days it was dominated by parades, concerts
and coordinated gatherings to celebrate the glories
of socialism, and while Poland was gradually edging
further and further away from Moscows manipulation,
the people were damned i f they were going to give up a
well-deserved day off from work. Despite the political
and social changes Poland has since experienced, and
the sour memories of Stalinist posturing, the post-
-communist government opted to keep the plebiscite
happy and maintain May1stas a public holiday only
without any red flag and party badge nonsense. As
such, it resembles the American Labour Day, which
is basically a day off for the sake of having a day off.
Amen to that.
Addi ng to the good news i s that Pol es fi nd them-
sel ves wi th another day of f before Labour Day has
evenbecome a memory.May3rdi sConstitution
Day, whi ch i n contrast to the hi story of May 1st,
i s one of the most i mportant annual cel ebrati ons
of Pol i sh i ndependence and nati onal i sm. I t was on
thi s day that the Pol i sh Sej m (parl i ament) proudl y
si gned what was to become Europes fi rst nati onal
consti tuti on (and second i n the worl d) i n Warsaws
Royal Castl e back i n 1791. A ground-breaki ng do-
cument that i ntroduced pol i ti cal equal i ty between
the bourgeoi si e and the nobi l i ty, i t al so pl aced the
peasant cl ass under the protecti on of the govern-
ment, thereby guaranteei ng them safety from any
nasty aristocrati c masters.StanisawAugustPonia-
towski, the Pol i sh ki ng at that ti me, descri bed the
consti tuti on as founded pri nci pal l y on those of
Engl and and the Uni ted States, but avoi di ng the
faul ts and errors of both. These sweepi ng soci al
reforms were wel comed by most Pol es, and i t was
such a l andmark event i t was i mmedi atel y decl ared
a national holiday. Not everyone was happy however,
namel y Pol ands bul l yi ng nei ghbours. Feari ng the
economi c, mi l i tar y and patri oti c resurgence of a
country so l ong kowtowed by them, Russi an tro-
ops i nvaded Pol i sh soi l and i n 1795 Pol and began
what woul d become 123 years of parti ti ons. The
May 3rd hol i day was outl awed and the short-l i ved
consti tuti on was descri bed by two of i ts co-authors,
I gnacy Potocki and Hugo Kotaj , as the l ast wi l l
and testament of the expiring country. When Poland
regai ned i ndependence i n 1918 May3rdonce more
became a day of nati onal cel ebrati on, though was
banned again by the Nazis, and then the communists
who foll owed. The holiday was restored to i ts current
mantl e i n 1990, and today i s very much seen as a
tri umph of the common good over repressi on.
Together the May holidays are known locally as Maj-
wka and are a popular time for Poles get out of town
for a few days. As like Easter before it, those visiting
the country on either May1stor3rdmay find efforts
to enjoy themselves thwarted, as a large number of
restaurants and bars choose to shut their doors over
this period.
May Days
60
RESTAURANTS
61
RESTAURANTS
Thai
Samui B-3, ul. Wilna 10, tel. (+48) 12 430 02 65,
www.samui.com.pl. After a successful launch several
years ago, and subsequent move into the Old Town, reports
from Samui - Krakws only exclusively Thai restaurant at the
moment - have been mixed at best, leading to an appear-
ance on Magda Gesslers Kuchenne Rewolucje (Kitchen
Revolutions) TV show in April 2012. Despite the makeover
- including an exceedingly colourful intrior emboldened with
golden elephants and sleeping buddhas - Ms. Magdas magic
seems to have been short-lived, and Samui continues to
garner meh reviews from customers unimpressed with the
slow service and slightly over-priced, mediocre food. Dont
be over-bold on the spice quotient here, however - medium
will actually too hot for some palettes. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(24-52z). PTAGSW
Ukrainian
Smak Ukraiski C-5, ul. Kanonicza 15, tel. (+48) 12
421 92 94 ext.25, www.ukrainska.pl. This veteran res-
taurant has survived the test of time and continues to serve
up consistently decent, stodgy food - shashlyks, steaks,
pork, pierogi, potatoes and borscht - at suitably Ukranian
bargain prices. Small children running amok all over the gor-
geous courtyard garden further adds to the authenticity, but
may have you heading to their folksy cellar where pleasant
peasant-dressed staff keep the bottles of underappreciated
Ukrainian beer coming to your table. Try all fifteen varieties
and wake up feeling like a Chernobyl victim. QOpen 12:00 -
22:00. (14-30z). TAGBSW
Vegetarian
Cafe Mynek D-7, Pl. Wolnica 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 62
02, www.cafemlynek.pl. The best caf south of ul. Jzefa
since its inception a decade ago, in addition to a classic Ka-
zimierz art gallery atmosphere, good coffee and square-side
summer seating, Mynek also serves a smattering of yummy
vegan and vegetarian dishes like humus and garlic bread,
quiches and a delicious Spanish tomato soup (like gazpacho,
but served hot). Sunday brunch complete with live classical
music between 11:00 and 13:00. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 08:00 - 01:00. (16-23z). PTA6EGBSW
Glonojad (Algae-eater) D-2, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48)
12 346 16 77, www.glonojad.com. Were the first to ap-
plaud the opening of any vegetarian restaurant in PL, and
while Glonojads concise, eastern-inspired menu - featuring
curry, samosas, burritos and daily specials - is a refreshing
alternative to your typical Polish cafeteria, the fact that the
aforementioned mains hit rather low on the flavour scale
and are served with two sides of standard slaw/salad in an
uninspired interior means the end result isnt that far off from
being a sort of veggie milk bar; albeit one with beer and wine,
wifi, a computer and even a mini bike-service to use. Fast,
filling, healthy and a great value for your money, Glonojad
is sure to be popular with students sick of greasy cutlets,
but will sadly leave those with an appetite for more creative
veggie fare disappointed. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 22:00. (9-16z). TA6GBSW
Green Way C-3, ul. Mikoajska 14, tel. (+48) 12 431
10 27, www.greenway.pl. Despite the somewhat soulless
corporate packaging, this is an decent vegetarian effort
well-favoured by students and travellers. Serving pita sand-
wiches, samosas, crepes, quiche, curry, enchilladas, some
delicious spinach dumplings as well as daily specials, the
prices are fair and affordable, though the ambience leaves a
bit to be desired. Its also just off the market square, making
it the most central of all Krakws veggie offerings. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (11-
22z). PT6GBSW
Karma A-2, ul. Krupnicza 12, tel. (+48) 506 06 06 84.
One of Krakws most forward-thinking locales, in addition
to excellent, free-trade coffee and tea, this modern cafe of-
fers a range of treats for those who have embraced vegan
or gluten-free lifestyles. All of the outstanding baked goods,
including tarts, cakes and cookies, are made on site, and
daily specials include delicious vegetarian soups, stir-frys
and curries at great prices. Theres even a breakfast menu,
giving you every reason to go early and often. For vegans,
vegetarians, and anyone who enjoys great coffee, Karma is
a must-visit. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
(15-23z). TA6GSW
Momo D-6, ul. Dietla 49, tel. (+48) 609 68 57 75. A
cheap and cheerful vegetarian/vegan restaurant churning
out plates of brown rice, organic vegetable mashes, a good
choice of salads, a few Indian and Asian dishes and even
kimchee. Popular with left-leaning schoolteachers, the wacky
backpacker set and people that refuse to stop smiling, Momos
prices remain ludicrously cheap and the food is both healthy
and worth coming back for. Try the excellent spicy sambar soup
and dont forget to smother your food with their coveted pea-
nut sauce. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. (10-19z). T6UGS
Raw Organic D-7, Pl. Wolnica 12, tel. (+48) 512 11
85 79, www.raworganic.pl. The first raw vegan food bar
in Poland, if you arent familiar with this food and lifestyle ap-
proach, simply head to Plac Wolnica and they will be happy to
sing its benefits to you. The basic idea is that food loses much
of its nutritional value when we cook it, thus a raw diet gives
you 100% of foods natural minerals and enzymes, keeping
you healthier and happier, more youthful and energetic. Raw
Organic offers a variety of creative shakes and fresh blended
juices, salads, cold soups, gluten-free cakes and more. The
ingredients are nothing more than fresh fruit and veggies,
seeds, nuts and seaweed, and the primary kitchen tool is a
blender. Daring and audacious not only in concept, but also
in price, everything we tasted was delicious, but you spend
a lot to eat your fill and itll be interesting to see if this trend
can gain traction in a town as traditional as Krakw. Also
in the Old Town at ul. Gobia 1 (B-3, open 11:00 - 19:00).
QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. (12-35z). TA6UVGSW
Spdzielnia Organic Resto & Take-away ul.
Meiselsa 11, tel. (+48) 536 77 74 05, spoldzielnia.
org. In concept, Cooperative (as it translates to in English)
is an ambitious community initiative to promote a healthy,
organic, vegetarian lifestyle by supporting local organic farms
Restaurant and cafe U Ziyada
ul. Jodowa 13, Krakw
tel. +48 12 429 71 05, +48 784 084 000
restauracja@uziyada.pl, www.uziyada.pl
If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed in
this guide, let the two million regular unique visitors to
our website, krakow.inyourpocket.com, know about it.
Every venue on our website has a function for comments,
be they critical, complimentary or comical, so spill it.
Milkbar Tomasza
We have just returned from a trip to Poland where we
spent a few days in Krakow. We had breakfast here one
morning and dinner one evening. It was delicious. I would
agree completely, this place is great, the food is fantastic
and the place is spotless. Dont miss out on it if you are in
Krakow, its just off a side street from the main square.
Brid from Galway, Ireland
Corner Burger
Great place with excellent people and the burgers...
simply addictive.
Ondrash from Czech Republic
Czerwone Korale
My wi fe and I were here on Thursday 7.3.13. Lovely
traditional Polish cuisine in a homely setting. I had the
dumplings with red cabbage salad and my wife had a
breaded pork fillet with buckwheat groats. Very tasty
and ample portions. Excellent value.
Graham from Bolton, UK
Gorczka
About as much fun as my last root canal.
Ferris from UK
Movida
Have loved Paparazzi for many years, great cocktails &
drinks, good food, fashion TV, late night bar scene...will
be in the new Movida soon, so well see!
Janette Carson from Bambridge, UK
Have Your Say
and creating more awareness about what we eat and where
it comes from. In action, its a crunchy vegetarian lunch bar
offering take-away wraps, stay-in daily specials and vegan
desserts that all follow the philosophy of the five transforma-
tions. Enjoy organic fair trade coffee and tea, local organic
beers and fresh squeezed juices in a modest interior with
paper bag lampshades and Manu Chau explaining his bongo
upbringing on the speakers. Find out what else the local
activists have on the agenda by dropping in Wednesdays
for film screenings in English and weekends for live music.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (9-23z). T6IVEGSW
A lot has changed over the years since communism got
kneecapped and Poland joined the EU. Today a destina-
tion as popular as Krakw hardly seems any more alien
or adventurous to tourists than well-frequented Paris or
Venice. And while many of the old ways of the old days
have disappeared or become slightly disneyfied, one relic
remains steadfastly un-Western: the Polish milk bar. These
steamy cafeterias serving traditional cuisine to an end-
less queue of tramps, pensioners and students provide
a grim glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland and have all the
atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of a gas station
restroom. We love them. For the cost of a few coins you
can eat like an orphaned street urchin, albeit an extremely
well-fed one. Put Wawel on hold, a visit to the milk bar (bar
mleczny in Polish) is a required cultural experience for
anyone who has just set foot in the country.
As in so many things, Krakw has the distinction of be-
ing the birthplace of the bar mleczny. Polands first milk
bar was actually opened on Krakws market square
on May 30th 1948 in the townhouse now occupied by
the upstanding Szara restaurant. Named Pod Bak
(Under the Milk Churn), originally no hot dishes were
served; this was a place where you went simply to enjoy
milk (hence the name), humbly served in .25 litre glass
with a straw (so classy). Run by the government, this
was the new partys clever attempt at popularising
milk-drinking (as opposed to moonshine), inspired by
Polands large surplus of dairy products. As restaurants
were nationalised and then shut down by PLs communist
authorities, more and more milk bars appeared across
the country and began offering cheap, dairy-based meals
to the masses and especially workers; quite often meals
at the local milk bar were included in a workers salary.
By the mid-60s milk bars were widely prevalent across
Poland as the party concept was to provide cheap, fast
food to everyone (as cheerlessly as possible apparently).
In addition to milk, yoghurt, cottage cheese and other
dairy concoctions, milk bars offered omelettes and egg
cutlets, as well as flour-based foods like pierogi. Times
were so desperate under communism that many bar
mleczny resorted to chaining the cutlery to the table to
deter rampant thievery; by this same reasoning youll still
notice today that most milk bars use disposable dishes
and the salt and pepper are dispensed from plastic cups
with a spoon. Similarly, the orders are still taken by blue-
haired, blue-veined, all-business babcias -and the food
is as inspired as ever, the only difference being meat
isnt rationed any more in modern PL. Indeed, todays
milk bars evoke a timelessness to be savoured just as
the milk soup with noodles served to schoolchildren in
PL in the 1980s was. With the collapse of communism
most bar mleczny went bankrupt, however, fortunately
for us all, some of these feed museums were saved and
continue to be kept open and dirt cheap through state
subsidies. The range of available dishes begins to fall off
as closing time approaches, so go early, go often. Below
are our favourites in the city centre:
Bar Targowy J-3, ul. Daszyskiego 19, tel. (+48)
12 421 14 37, www.bary.krakow.pl. QOpen 06:00 -
19:00, Sat 07:00 - 16:00, Sun 07:00 - 15:00. (6-16z). G
Pod Temid C- 4, ul. Grodzka 43, tel. (+48) 12
422 08 74. The easiest to find: look for the blue and
white Bar Mleczny sign. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. (8-
16z). UGS
Milk Bars
63
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62
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wooden tables and white walls. At its best in the mornings with
great coffee and breakfast offerings (note the all-you-can-eat
weekend brunch buffet for only 15z), daily lunch specials ac-
company soup, sandwiches, quiche and a good beer selection.
Essentially the antithesis of everything in the Old Town, with
Bal Krakws young creatives are marking their territory. Find
it and find out. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Mon 08:00 - 21:00,
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00. TA6UGSW
Cafe Sza C-3, Rynek Gwny 1-3, tel. (+48) 695 60 27
74. On the second floor of the renovated Cloth Hall, Cafe Sza
offers great views of St. Marys Basilica and the market square
from its large terrace. In addition to being a great place for a
romantic date, or snapping some stellar photos, this Tribeca-
owned cafe serves delicious coffee, cakes, and cocktails. If you
arent interested in the cafe, but still want the view, you should
apparently pay 2z to visit the terrace (free Mondays, Sundays
and every day after 20:00, or try your luck by sneaking around
to the second terrace in the same location on the other side of
the spiral stairs). Opening hours are tricky to offer here, since
it is weather dependent. Once things get warm the cafe and
terrace will be open 10:00 - 24:00, however be aware that
the interior may close as early as 18:00 on inclement days.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. PAUGBSW
Camelot C-3, ul. w. Tomasza 17, tel. (+48) 12 421
01 23. Let a blissful day unravel before you amid a collection
of tiny tables, squeaking floorboards and watercolors pinned
to white walls. Owlish academics mingle with local stage
celebrities and braying tourists inside what is no less than a
city institution. An extensive menu features all-day breakfast,
salads, pastas, desserts and plenty of warm local liquors, and
the elevated seat in the window may be the most romantic
spot in town. A cultural institution, descend to the cellar on
Fridays at 20:00 to experience the delightfully strange, often
a tad corny, always endearing Loch Camelot cabaret. Recom-
mended all around. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. T6EGSW
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 2, tel.
(+48) 600 80 78 80, www.bistrocharlotte.com. Step
into Charlotte and you might not be certain if youve wan-
dered into a Parisian back-street bistro or a preppy fashion
shoot. Here the clients are almost indistinguishable from the
staff as well-bred hipsters break bread together at a central,
communal table while their aproned friends scurry up and
down the stairs with rattling trays full of homemade honey
and jam jars. The menu is built around the delicious bread
and croissants baked on site and includes French classics
like Croque Madame and creme brulee, gourmet cheese and
meat platters - all accompanied by great coffee or wine. The
high ceilings and wall-length windows give Charlotte an open,
sociable atmosphere, which either makes up for or explains the
often spotty service - well let you decide. We only know well
be happily returning. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:00,
Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. TA6GBSW
Karma Coffee Roasters A-2, ul. Krupnicza 12, tel.
(+48) 506 06 06 84. If you want to rate the best coffee in
Krakw, you can start and finish here in Karma. Fair trade from
Union Coffee - a small London roaster, connoisseurs will also
note that Karmas coffee is prepared with one of the best
espresso machines in the world (Synesso, from Seattle, write
it down). But this is hardly the snobby or pricey realm of the
Starbucks set. Karma caters to a more modern, alternative
crowd with a range of vegan and gluten-free baked goods -
tarts, cakes, cookies and more - made fresh on site each day.
Daily specials include delicious vegetarian soups, stir-frys and
curries that will make you feel great about what youre eating,
as well as how little youre paying for it. With a full breakfast
menu to complement their coffee, Karma is a wonderful place
ul. Pawia 5, 31-154 Krakw
Galeria Krakowska (level -1 & +1)
tel. 12/628-73-22
4D Gelato Caffe
Gelato Caff
Few thi ngs i n li fe get a Pol e more ani mated than a
good dessert. Ranging from doughnuts and pastries
to a plethora of cakes and tortes, many of which have
come to be associated with particular holidays, Polish
desserts are known for not being too sweet and for too
often incorporating marmalade, gelatine or alcohol (in our
opinion, anyway). The classic Polish desserts we list below
can be purchased in any cukiernia (pastry shop) worth
its salt (or sugar, as the case may be) and many cafes.
Sernik
Polish for cheesecake, sernik is one of the countrys most
popular desserts and youll have a hard time convincing
any Pole youve been to their country if you dont try it.
Made with a sweet curd cheese (twarg) and served
cold, there are plenty of variations, including those with
raisins, gelatine or chocolate sauce. Every Polish family
has a sernik specialist whose job it is to bring one of these
delicious cakes to holiday gatherings and get-togethers.
Szarlotka
Any Pole will tell you that the best apples in the world
come from Poland, and Polish apple pie is a standard
served almost everywhere you go. Made with shortbread,
the apples are typically tart and flavoured with cinnamon
and cloves.
Kremwka
A cream pie made of two thin layers of puff pastry filled
with vanilla custard cream and often topped with powdered
sugar. One of our favourite Polish treats, kremwka was
popularised across PL by the late Pope John Paul II, who
made the mistake of offhandedly commenting about
eating cream cakes once in his hometown of Wadowice,
thus creating a cottage industry in the small town 50km
southwest of Krakw almost overnight.
Pierniki
Polish gingerbread, or pierniki, comes in many varieties,
but the most famous is Toruski Piernik, which has been
produced in the northern town of Toru since the Middle
Ages. Sli ghtl y soft, chewy and flavoured wi th honey,
cinnamon, ginger, cloves, cardamom, nutmeg, anise and
lavender, these small gingerbread cookies can be glazed
with sugar, covered in chocolate or filled with marmalade.
Pczki
A tradition since the 1700s, pczki are so popular they
even have their own holiday Tusty Czwartek (Fat
Thursday) when everyone in PL fills their faces with these
dense deep-fried doughnuts. Typically filled with rose jam,
glazed with sugar and topped with candied orange peel,
pczki are similar to American jelly doughnuts, the main
difference being that Polands conservative tendencies
ensure there is only a drop of marmalade in the centre
somewhere, which an elaborate game could be made
around trying to find.
Makowiec
Traditionally eaten at Easter and Christmas, this poppy
seed dessert can be made as a cake, or as a bread loaf
with a dense swirl of slightly sweetened poppy seeds in
the centre. Sometimes alcohol is added to the filling, and
icing and orange zest often glaze the bread.
Polish Desserts
Krakw is infamous for its cafe culture which easily rivals that
of celebrated capitals like Paris and Vienna, perhaps even
outmatching them pound for pound. In fact, it was a famous
Pole - Jerzy Kulczycki - who opened the first coffeehouse in
Vienna. Krakws Kazimierz district is particularly known for
its atmospheric cafes, filled with candlelight, antiques and Old
World mystique. Most Cracovian cafes also serve alcohol and
the line between cafe and bar can be a blurry one indeed. The
venues weve listed here tend to favour coffee and cakes over
beer and booze and when most cafe/bar establishments are
turning up the music for their til last guest clientele, these
are more often closing their doors.
4D Gelato Caffe D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska),
tel. (+48) 12 628 73 22, www.gelateria4d.com. Delicious
gourmet Italian coffee and ice cream on the first floor of Galeria
Krakowska. On offer are more than 30 gelato flavours and fruit
sorbets, including some creative and utterly adorable sundae
creations for kids, plus pancakes, bruschette, baguettes
and other savoury eats. This modern cafe with watermelon-
coloured furnishings is the ultimate place to recharge and
treat yourself when shopping becomes exhausting. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. PA6UGSW
Bal K-4, ul. lusarska 9 (entrance from ul. Przemysowa),
tel. (+48) 608 58 94 59. If youre feeling a bit self-conscious
about being a tourist after visiting MOCAK or Schindlers Fac-
tory, a trip to Bal will help restore your street cred. Located
literally right behind MOCAK, but with a slyly hidden entrance
(take your first left before the museums), this stylish cafe, bar
and brunch spot is part of the first wave of pioneers pitching
their tents in Zabocie (that unseemly, industrial section of
Podgrze). What should be an obscure studio space has been
turned into a hip hangout with high ceilings and exposed bulbs,
Taste the best sweets in Poland.
,-~ ,.-
~-. . . -. . ..- .- ... - ,.- ..-.
Krakw: Zamek Krlewski - Wawel 9, 31-001 Krakw, tel. (12) 422 05 90, Open Mon-Sun 9.00-17.00
65
NIGHTLIFE
64
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If you believe urban legend (like we do) Krakw has the high-
est density of bars in the world. Simply hundreds of bars
can be found in cellars and courtyards stretching from the
Old Town to Kazimierz and beyond. Keeping them open, of
course, are the thousands of tourists that flock to Krakw
every year, and with higher tourism comes higher prices:
expect to pay 7-10z (2-3 Euros) for a large beer. The open-
ing hours we list are flexible; basically if people are drinking,
the barman is pouring. Below is a list of recommendations
depending on what youre looking for.
Bars & Pubs
Antycafe C-2, ul. Sawkowska 12, tel. (+48) 506 48
18 88, www.antycafe.pl. As tempting as it would be to call
Antycafe a hipster haven, since mocking hipsters is more hip
than being one these days, we wouldnt want to do this fine
establishment that disservice. Between the two full bars on
opposite ends of this 30m long anti-caf, youll find candlelit
nooks, eccentric art, great music, and a very cool vibe indeed.
True to its name, the alternative atmosphere belies more of
an edgy bar than a quaint caf, and with a great beer selection
and one of the least ostracising smoking sections in the Old
Town, youve all the more reason to occupy a table. If you can
find a free one, that is. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00. P6XW
Baroque C-2, ul. w. Jana 16, tel. (+48) 12 422 01 06,
www.baroque.com.pl. Over several rooms of plush seating,
high fashion photographs, dangling chandeliers and a spacious
garden during the warmer part of the year, Baroque is a sharp,
modern space that mixes the new with the old. Seductively
attractive, its range of cocktails is consistently among the best
in the city. Choose from knock-out creations like the Polish
Spring Punch or put your head down and do your best to rip
through the 100-plus vodkas on the list. While Krakws mojito
love-affair continues unabated, Baroques still looks the best
and comes in positively huge portions. After years of being a
premier cocktail bar and restaurant, theyve gone and jumped
into the dance scene, keeping the signature Baroque style in
the downstairs weekend club space. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. PABXW
Beer Gallery - Luxury D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 30, tel.
(+48) 601 40 88 70, www.beergallery.pl. If you arent
yet familiar with Belgian beer, hurry yourself to Beer Gallery
Luxury for an education. Specialising exclusively in Belgian
imported brands, the knowledgeable staff are ready to tell
you all there is to know about the 150 bottles in stock (also
available to-go) and the 8 types on draught, as well as letting
you sample the latter. Rather than price each label individu-
ally, Beer Gallery offers every bottle at an average price of
10z. Not only does this make it easier, its also cheaper
than youll find at the shop and true connoisseurs may even
recognise the opportunity to game the system. While little
more than a hole-in-the-wall, this Belgian beer library with its
encyclopaedic menu is the only place of its kind in the country
and a great place to try some of the best beers in the world
while duly impressing your date. Also at ul. Dominikaska 3
(C-4) and ul. Warszauera 10 (E-6). QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.
PAUGBW
Bomba B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 2/1, tel. (+48) 782 60
19 99. In almost no time at all, this small bar has managed
to establish itsel f as a cult hangout thanks to a simple
concept few places follow anymore: good music and good
people equals good times. Unpretentious with an interior of
unfinished wood, brick walls and a small upstairs balcony
level with a great view of Plac Szczepaski, the solid gold
playlist rotates funk and soul, electro, dub-step, hip-hop and
pop. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. A6EXW
Mamy Cafe C-2, ul. Sawkowska 20, tel. (+48) 12
422 06 65, www.mamycafe.pl. The name not only
refers to mothers, but literally translates to we have a
cafe - exactly describing the spirit of this hidden city cen-
tre sanctuary which goes out of its way to accommodate
parents with young children. The simple decor creates
an at-home atmosphere and helpful amenities include
high chairs, changing tables and privacy screens, plus
diapers and wet wipes behind the bar. Separate menus
are tailored not only to the taste of the little ones, but also
for pregnant mums and those with allergies. Kids have
plenty of toys and games, and in summer the outside
garden (replete with a sandbox) literally doubles the
play space. Wifi-enabled so you can combine business
with childcare (if you have to), theres really nothing they
havent thought of to make the job of being a parent
easier. Take a break and take advantage. QOpen 11:00 -
20:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. TA6GBSW
With the Kids
Royal Art Cafe C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29 (Royal
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 618 40 41, www.royal.com.pl.
Located in one of our favourite Krakw hotels, Royal Art
Cafe is much more modern than the regal art nouveau hotel
that houses it, with sharp lighting and design and windows
overlooking the Planty. The latest presses are there to help
you start your day, plus widescreen TVs on which you can
catch some sports or world news in English. But Royal Arts
biggest draw is clearly the long rack of fine whiskeys behind
the bar which are sure to smooth the wrinkles and loosen
the collar at the end of any day. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00.
PAGSW
Sodki Wawel B-6, Wawel 9 (in the courtyard next to
Wawel Visitor Centre), tel. (+48) 12 422 05 90, www.
wawel.com.pl. As well it should be, the flagship sweets
shop of this well-known and well-loved local chocolatier and
confectionery is located in the courtyard of Wawel Castle itself.
Featuring a full cafe and splendid terrace in the spring and sum-
mer, no ticket is required to enter and enjoy this historic brand
which has been satisfying sweet tooths since 1898. Stop in to
pick up an edible souvenir and try the popular local specialties
Mieszanka Krakowska, Kasztanki, Krwka, Malaga and
more. Wawel has shops nationwide, as well as three more in
Krakw at Rynek Gwny 33 (C-3), ul. Kalwaryjska 19-21 (I-5)
and ul. Wielopole 12 (D-4). Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. From May
open 09:00 - 20:00 PAUGBSW
NEW
Tektura A-2, ul. Krupnicza 7, tel. (+48) 516 14 12 59.
Looking like it could have been transplanted from Green Point
in Brooklyn, Tektura once and for all confirms ul. Krupnicza is
the Old Towns coolest street, while giving the nearby Karma
a challenge for the crown of Krakws best cup of coffee. A
point of pride for the baristas, in addition to being espresso
experts, the staff also operate alternative AeroPress and
Chemex coffeemakers and are up for any kind of coffee
challenge you can give them - with amazing results. Theres
an entire shelf of enticing microbrews, a cocktail list and full
range of fresh sandwiches, breakfasts and sweet baked
goods to boot. Sporting a hip, urban industrial chic interior
of unfinished brick and concrete, with an eco-angle accom-
plished by stools made from coiled recycled cardboard, Tek-
tura also provides plenty of outlets to laptoppers, reliable wifi,
boardgames and basically everything you could ever ask from
a cafe/bar. We hope the competition is taking notes. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. PA6GSW
ELITE: Those who want the sexiness of a strip club,
without the laddish antics or dodginess, should try
Stalowe Magnolie or Burlesque - discerning clubs that
keep it classy while evoking sultry inter-war ambience.
Modiva and Baroque are finalists for the best cocktails
in Krakw debate, while Baccarat and Taawa are the
most upscale clubs in the Old Town and Kazimierz,
respectively.
STUDENTS: Not your most discriminating demographic,
students will go anywhere theres fun music and cheap
drinks - namely Gorczka, Ministerstwo, Spoem or
the legendary Kitsch, while those with more intent to
impress head to Frantic and Cien.
LADS: Pod Papugami and Irish MBassy - where
matches are on and the staff are used to boisterous
behaviour - welcome stag groups, after which you can
try the local institutions known as Kitsch and Prozak.
Alternatively, head to CK Browar for a rowdy beer hall
that brews its own, or sample upwards of 150 Polish and
foreign ales at House Of Beer.
COUPLES: Couples looking for some face time should go
tipple tasting in Beer Gallery - Luxury, snuggle in a cosy
loft at wita Krowa, soak up the karma sutra ambience
of Budda Drink & Garden, converse by candlelight in
Mleczarnia or stay home and listen to Barry White.
ALTERNATIVE: Take your tight pants and non-prescrip-
tion specs to Miejsce or Bomba, your photography
portfolio to Pauza, your unfinished novel to Dym and your
self-destructive side to Klub Pikny Pies or Rozrywki 3.
Nightlife at a Glance
Certainly there can be no more Cracovian activity than
sitting in the sun in the late afternoon with a beer in
your hand, recounting the events of the night before,
making half-baked travel plans and dreaming up daft
art projects youll never follow through with. In fact some
people seem to have made a living out of such blissful
idleness (theyre called ex-pats). While all of Krakw may
seem like a beer garden in the summer months, contrary
to the evidence in front of you, it is not legal to drink in
public spaces, whether its the Planty, the Wisa riverbank
or elsewhere. Nor should you need to. With more bars
per capita than any other city in Europe, suddenly every
single one has a garden full of patio furniture the moment
the sun comes out. So which to choose? Most foreigners
will keep to the market square (C-3), and while the views
and vibe are super, youll find that every establishment
on the market square charges 50% more for beer; every
one except the venerable Vis a Vis (Rynek 29) that is,
where a beer is still a swallowable 8z. On the squares
opposite side seek out the courtyard of Buddha Bar
(Rynek 6) where DJs spin records under the stars. Other
Old Town notables include Bunkier - a positively huge
terrace on the Planty (B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 3a), Klub Re
(D-3, ul. w. Krzya 4), and the popular nook known as
Doubting Thomas Lane (C-3, ul. w. Tomasza). Track
down to Kazimierz, however, to enjoy alfresco drinking
at its finest - Plac Nowy (D-6) is a no-brainer, though
for the most scenic garden head to Mleczarnia (D-6, ul.
Meiselsa 20). Also, dont forget ul. Szeroka (E-6) - far
less lively than the rest of Kazimierz, but less grubby as
well and catches sun later into the evening.
Beer Gardens
to not just wake up, but become a bit more conscious. Also a
weekend location with a large garden at ul. w. Wawrzyca 9/2
(D-7, open Fri 12:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00). QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. TA6GSW
Kolanko N6 E-6, ul. Jzefa 17, tel. (+48) 12 292 03 20,
www.kolanko.net. One of Kazimierzs most under-appreci-
ated venues, Kolanko has plenty going for it. The main attrac-
tions have to be the large garden with plenty of summertime
shade and winter warmth, and the concerts that take place
in the venue space beyond it. Dont forget the cheap menu
of soups, salads and creatively-stuffed sweet and savoury
crepes, however; nor the delicious and too-often overlooked
local amber and dark beers on draught. Quirky attic knick-
knacks combined with klezmer and world music selections
give Kolanko 6 an escapist atmosphere well-appreciated by
couples, laptoppers and loners like ourselves. Recommended.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00,
Sun 10:00 - 24:00. TA6EGBXSW
Noworolski C-3, Rynek Gwny 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 47
71, www.noworolski.com.pl. Take a seat in this local classic
located inside the Cloth Hall and breathe the hundred-year of
Krakws highs and lows since it opened in 1910. Famous as
the place where Comrade Lenin would read the papers during
his visits, WWII occupation later saw Noworolski become the top
haunt of Nazi nabobs, before the family-owned business was
taken away by the communist authorities, only to be returned
in 1991. Things have changed little in terms of style and service
since then, making Noworolski a creaky throwback favoured
today by well-dressed locals in the autumn of their years, but the
exquisite art nouveau interiors by Jzef Mehoffer are among the
most decadent in town and well worth a look. Youll find cheaper
and better coffee in the city but it wont be served to such an
atmospheric backdrop. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. ABXSW
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NIGHTLIFE
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NIGHTLIFE
Budda Drink & Garden C-3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel.
(+48) 12 421 65 22, www.budda-drink.com.pl. To get
the most out of Budda you need to visit in summer when
adjoining courtyard gardens transform into an al fresco
dance arena. On those chillier evenings make for one of
the two the warmly lit crimson interiors on either end of
the courtyard, the one on the right being the better of the
two. Here, drinkers down potent concoctions under the
conceited gaze of gold buddhas illuminated by hundreds
of flickering candles. Check out the unique mezzanine
level for something a little di fferent, while couples suf-
fering a lull in their relationship shoul d choose a cozy
nook and study the wall paintings of randy Indian figures
entwined in Kama Sutra embraces. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00.
PA6UXW
Bull Pub D-3, ul. Mikoajska 2, tel. (+48) 12 423 11 68,
www.bullpub.pl. What the Great British Pub once looked
like before the brewing industry was mugged by alcopops,
Wetherspoons and silly smoking laws. Squint and you could
be in the Rovers Return, what with all the glass sconces,
booth seating and pictures of fox hunting toffs. The Brit
associations and centre stage location mean a fair chance
of running into groups of lads freshly dispatched from an
EasyJet, thus disrupting the armchair atmosphere which
would otherwise be ideal for an after-work beer and maybe
a nap. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. ABXW
Bunkier Cafe (Bunkier) B-2, Pl. Szczepaski
3a, tel. (+48) 12 431 05 85, www.bunkiercafe.pl.
Attached to Krakws best contemporary art gal l ery,
this enclosed terrace bar/cafe on the Planty resembles
a spacious greenhouse wherein the plants have been
replaced with couples, happy hour colleagues and English
teachers gi ving pri vate l essons around wobbl y tabl es
and chairs. A year-round pleasure (thanks to plenty of
heaters), Bunkiers inviting atmosphere is marred only by
the slow to completely negligible table service that cant
be circumnavigated. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 02:00. ABXW
Cheers Pub C-4, ul. Grodzka 31, tel. (+48) 783 87
25 87, www.cheers-pub.com. Obscurel y tucked in a
courtyard off Grodzka Street, this Scottish- and Polish-owned
cellar-dweller retains its basic medieval interior with sturdy
wooden furnishings, a heavy iron chandelier and raw rock
walls. Unfortunately the sight of the Scottish flag doesnt
necessarily portend good ale behind the bar (Heineken,
mate?), but there is a tube above it streaming Sky Sports.
Developing a strong following of foreigners and their Polish
partners, an expat club meets Tuesdays and Fridays at 20:00
and live music is likely on the small stage Saturday nights.
QOpen 15:00 - 24:00, Fri 15:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00,
Sun 13:00 - 24:00. PXW
C.K. Browar B-2, ul. Podwale 6-7, tel. (+48) 12 429 25
05, www.ckbrowar.krakow.pl. On top of being Krakws
primary microbrewery (serving rather palatable Light, Ginger,
Dunkel and Weizen ales), CK Browar has plenty more going
for it including the handsome beer hall interior with copper
brewing vats, tiffany-style lamps and long wooden tables fit
for a viking feast with a fist of grog. Redoubling the barbarian
potential is the possibility of getting a five litre beer tower
with its own tap fitted to your table. Damn good times, the
downside being that what could be an elegant, even so-
phisticated, beer cellar has become a rather loutish lads
bar noted for bad music, bad service and occasionally bad
company - namely intoxicated, unpredictable and sometimes
aggressive local boys. Shame indeed. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00,
Thu 09:00 - 02:00, Fi, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. PAEBXW
ul. w. Jana 18, Tel. 012 422 61 01, 012 422 82 99, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl
Open: Mon Sun 12.00 Till the last guest
Irish Pub
Certified quality Guinness,
a wide range of whiskey,
live Irish music and live
sports on a big screen in
a great atmosphere in one
of Krakows oldest and
biggest pubs.
a ::.
[. :.c
-l( - .
(All matches shown)
The Best
Guinness
in Poland!!!
Awarded rst place for quality in
Polands Guinness Competition.
Dym (Smoke) C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 13, tel. (+48)
12 429 66 61. Lost in the sauce somewhere between
cafe and bar, Dym is a long, dark drink-den, the dull design
of which is made up for by the character of the clientele:
primaril y sel f-proclaimed artists and intell ectuals that
blow a lot of smoke. How many advances and grants have
been blown here its hard to know, but spend a few nights
at Dym and youre guaranteed to become a character in
at least two unfinished novels. Yes, we were all so full of
promise back then; back before all our ambition and drive
went into drink, we went broke and ended up scribbling for
this rag... Ah, glory days. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 02:00. UGBW
Hard Rock Cafe C- 3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48)
12 429 11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. Si t
back enj oyi ng your cocktai l or beer overl ooki ng the
market square and Cl oth Hal l from Hard Rocks spl i t
l evel gl ass bar. The chaps here know how to make that
dri nk and the smi l i ng faces can someti mes be al l you
need after a l ong day faci ng stern museum curators.
Not the cheapest pl ace i n town, but one of comfort for
many. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00.
PAUEGBW
House Of Beer D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 35 (entrance
ul. Krzya 13), tel. (+48) 794 22 21 36, www.house-
ofbeerkrakow.com. House of Beer may be the best of
the bars improving the beer culture of Polands drinking
capital, with over 200 bottles and 18 draught beers on hand
in this high ceilinged pub full of dark wooden furnishings
and large leather sofas. Full of foreigners and locals alike,
the atmosphere is friendly without being overly laddish, or
having the unnecessary and all too common distraction
of TVs nattering in the background. Some bottles can be
a bit pricey so find out what the damage is before asking
the barman to uncork one, or try the more local ales on
draught for more of a bargain. QOpen 14:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 14:00 - 02:00. PAGW
Iri sh Mbassy C- 3, ul. Stol arska 3, tel. (+48)
12 431 02 21, www.iri shmbassy.com. Cheeki l y
stati oned i n the mi dst of Krakws embassy row, the
massi ve Irish MBassy is a popular place for weekenders
and expats to get thei r passports punched and forget
where they are. Numerous TV screens beam down l i ve
sports over three stori es of ori gi nal bri ck and gothi c
details, punctuated by sponsorship si gnage, sports and
I ri sh memorabi l i a. Absol ute madness duri ng matches,
the doe-eyed staf f do wel l to keep track of the orders
fi red at them, whi l e a decent l i ne of pub grub - burgers
and baguettes - makes thi s a one stop sol uti on for a
l ong ni ght. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 -
04:00. PAEBXW
Movida Cocktail Bar D- 3, ul. Mikoajska 9, tel.
(+48) 12 429 45 97, www.movi da- bar.pl. Af ter
the break-up of the ownershi p team, Paparazzi has
changed i ts name to Movi da, but kept the spi ri t and
i denti ty of the pl ace basi cal l y i ntact. A l ong, narrow
space pl astered wi th candi d pi cs of cel ebs practi si ng
thei r pout, Paparazzis cocktai l l i st i s second to none
and this remains first choi ce for anyone l ooking to clinch
deal s over i nvi gorati ng concocti ons fi xed by a team of
speci al i sts. Two TVs pl ayi ng sports and Gui nness i n
the fri dge add to the overal l appeal of thi s cel ebrati on
of cel ebri ty. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 -
01:00. PAUXW
Proven masters of make-do with the potato as their
primary resource, the Poles have been producing and
drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling
their skill into some of the best vodka blends available
in the world, many of which date back centuries. The
two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands
must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which youll find
in any alcohol shop. But you wont find many tipplers
throwing them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are
generally reserved for giving away at weddings and mix-
ing in cocktails, the real fun of Polish vodka sampling is
the flavoured vodkas. Unlike beer with juice (regarded as
highly emasculating), flavoured vodkas are embraced by
both sexes and imbibed copiously.
Winiwka
Undoubtedl y the most common fl avoured vodka,
wi ni wka i s a cheap, dangerousl y easy to dri nk,
cherr y-fl avoured vari ety. Youl l see students and
pensioners alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well
as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in corners of
tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit juice is
often added to cut the sweetness of this bright red
monogamy cure.
odkowa Gorzka
Due to its very name, which translates to something like
Bitter Stomach Vodka, odkowa Gorzka gives even the
most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise
of its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured
vodka flavoured with herbs and spices, odkowa has
a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything
youre likely to have tried before. Incredibly palatable, its
best enjoyed when sipped on ice.
Krupnik
Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a sweet vodka
made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle
for Mum drinking vodka doesnt get any easier than this.
In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with
hot water, lemon and mulling spices added.
ubrwka
One of Polands most popular overseas vodka exports,
ubrwka has been produced in Eastern Poland since the
16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to
the primeval Biaowiea Forest that straddles the border
(a blade of which appears in each bottle), ubrwka is
faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance of mown
hay and a subtle taste which has been described as
floral or having traces of almond or vanilla. Delightfully
smooth as it is on its own, ubrwka is most commonly
combined with apple juice a refreshing concoction
called a tatanka.
Goldwasser
A celebrated Gdask tradition since 1598, Goldwasser
is a unique alchemic elixir characterised by the 22 karat
gold flakes floating in it. One of the oldest liqueurs in
the world, Goldwassers secret recipe contains some
20 roots and herbs, combining to create a sweet, but
spicy flavour with touches of anise, pepper and mint.
While we thought turning the potato into vodka was an
example of creative ingenuity, were not sure what sort of
statement the practice of turning gold into vodka makes
about Polish culture...
Polish Vodka
68
NIGHTLIFE
Pauza C-2, ul. Floriaska 18 (1st floor), tel. (+48) 12
422 48 66, www.pauza.pl. One of the trendiest drinking
dens in the Old Town, head to this unmarked first floor bar
to feel like youre in the know. Full of stylish haircuts and
sexy dresses, Pauza twins as a photography gallery with
perfectly illuminated high-quality exhibitions, making the
hipsters feel justifiably art-smart. Furnishings are modern
with low loveseats and stools and some enviable tables in
the windows overlooking Floriaska. Despite an atrocious
queue for the toilet and typically trendy house music, this
is one of the best hangout spots in the Old Town. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. AXW
Pod Papugami Irish Pub C-2, ul. w. Jana 18, tel.
(+48) 12 422 61 01, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl. After
a couple of refurbs, Pod Papugami has doubled its capacity,
the upstairs has been beset by some fake brick finishing and
brightened a bit, and though it may have lost some character,
generally it now feels less like youre doing your drinking inside
an ephysemic lung than previously (not a bad trade-off). Over
two levels full of wooden fittings, Irish bric-a-brac, a billiards
table, darts, plasma screens streaming sports, fresh baked
pizza and pints of Murphys, Guinness, Kilkenny and Stowford
Press cider, Pod Papugami has a friendly sociable atmosphere
beloved by lads and gentlemen alike. A great place to meet
people and find out just what exactly the craic is, PP actually
captures everything we like about being in an Irish bar. QOpen
12:00 - 02:00. PAUX
QUBE A-5, ul. Powile 7 (Sheraton Krakw Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 662 16 74, www.sheraton.com.pl/krakow.
Located in the Sheratons magnificent showpiece atrium,
QUBE is as sexy a spot as youll find for a drink in Krakw,
as youll notice from the glass ceiling many stories above
and the beauti ful waitresses gliding around dispatching
cocktails fixed by the expert barstaff. QUBEs real claim to
fame however is the 200 brands of vodka, served not on ice,
but in special shotglasses made of ice - a fantastic way to
introduce yourself to one of PLs leading exports (after wives,
cheap labour, moustaches and machinery). QOpen 08:00 -
01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PAUGW
SomePlace Else A-5, ul. Powile 7 (Sheraton Krakw
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 662 16 70, krakow.someplace-
else.pl. Nine plasma screens for live sports, friendly staff
and a quality menu of bar eats that steers towards the
Tex-Mex end of the spectrum make SPE an easy place to
witness your down time overpower whatever itinerary you
thought you had in Krakw. The list of world beers goes
above and beyond the usual choice of local liquids, and the
American interior is a combo of Yank road signs and pics of
rocknroll heroes. Though not open late, this low-key expat
and itinerants bar is still your best bet for convincing the
staff to help you watch your favourite MLB, NFL or NBA team
in action. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
PAUGW
wita Krowa (The Holy Cow) C-2, ul. Floriaska
16, tel. (+48) 12 426 01 18. Perhaps the most enchant-
ing and laidback bar in the Old Town, wita Krowa is an
intoxicating alchemic elixir of alcohol, incense, candlelight,
cloves and ambient eastern grooves. Hidden in a small,
soulful brick cellar off Floriaska, The Holy Cow inhabits two
oriental sitting rooms slung with prayer flags, low cushioned
stools and two lofted lounge areas. Amiable barmen conjure
a range of invigorating alcohol infusions and in winter this is
the perfect hideaway for a hot krupnik (and maybe an opium
nap). We miss the terrarium, but wita Krowa is still a highly
recommended cult hangout. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 05:00. XW
Let us invite you
The casual fun style sports bar offers 9 plasma screens featuring the most
exciting sport events. The unique atmosphere and delicious
tex-mex cuisine, scrummy cocktails, drinks and professional staff make
SomePlace Else a perfect place to relax and enjoy time with your family,
friends, business partners and sport fun.
Let us invite you for a Journey through world stadiums, courses
and halls because life is better when shared.
SHERATON.COM/KRAKOW
SHERATON KRAKOW HOTEL
ul. Powile 7
31-101 Krakw
t +48 12 662 1670
The casual fun style sports bar offers 9 plasma screens featuring the most
exciting sport events. The unique atmosphere and delicious
tex-mex cuisine, scrummy cocktails, drinks and professional staff make
SomePlace Else a perfect place to relax and enjoy time with your family,
friends, business partners and sport fun.
Let us invite you for a Journey through world stadiums, courses
and halls because life is better when shared.
SHERATON.COM/KRAKOW
SHERATON KRAKOWHOTEL
ul. Powile 7
31-101 Krakw
t +48 12 662 1670
Known as Zakski Przekski (literally Appetisers &
Snacks), or Polish Tapas as its been dubbed by some,
these 24 hour budget snack bars have popped up
like weasels all over Krakw, cashing in on communist
nostalgia and the appeal of low prices. The Zakski
Przekski formula includes a small selection of simple,
local appetisers typically served cold and priced at 8z,
with drinks at a fixed rate of 4z. Familiar as the bar
snacks of the lean communist years, the menu reads like
a list of correct answers to the Jeopardy question Foods
that follow vodka and typically includes ledz (pickled
herring in oil), galaretka (pig trotters in jelly), kiebasa
(sausage), pierogi, pickles and tartare. Much like a milk
bar with a liquor license, Zakski Przekski offer budget
food and drink late night and are a great place to meet
the citys strangest characters. We list the best below:
Ambasada ledzia C-3, ul. Stolarska 8/10, tel.
(+48) 662 56 94 60. Theres a vodka and led bar on
seemingly every corner in Krakw these days, and were
gonna go ahead and blame Ambasada ledzia for this
fishy fad. They were first, and if were judging by food,
theyre also the best. In case youre wondering, pickled
herring (led) is a delicacy in these parts in the same
way that vodka is local parlance for medicine. The two
go great together and for 12z its a cheap fling with
foreign culinary culture. The dive bar interior of graffiti
scribbles makes The Herring Embassy a hipster haven
- one that stays crammed with clients long into morning,
and is evidently well worth imitating. Theres also a tiny
second location in Kazimierz at ul. Boego Ciaa 11 (D-6,
open 09:00 - 02:00; from Fri 09:00 to Mon 02:00 open
24 hours).QOpen 08:00 - 06:00, Fri 08:00 - 07:00, Sat
09:00 - 07:00, Sun 09:00 - 06:00. UGBW
BaniaLuka B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 6, tel. (+48) 790
77 06 48. For those nights when you simply refuse to
let the party end, despite powerful objections from your
liver, wallet and better sense, BaniaLuka is there for you.
Open 24 hours, this rowdy bar has proven very popular
with the young folks, who dont seem to care that the
cheap beer and booze (4z) comes in smaller glasses (.4l
of beer, 40ml of vodka), and have decided that eating
questionable 8z soviet-inspired vodka snacks is now the
height of fashion. Though BaniaLuka is on par with the
best, youll find similar establishments on almost every
square in Krakw, so count out your zoty in increments
of four and treat yourself to an early morning vodka crawl.
Q Open 24hrs. PAUGBW
Pijalnia Wdki i Piwa C-3, ul. w. Jana 3-5 (en-
trance from ul. w. Tomasza), tel. (+48) 12 422 80
75. Well-positioned for popularity on Doubting Thomas
Lane, Pijalnias around the clock crowds make it hard to
miss. Flooded inside and out with students and street
urchins, Pijalnia seems to be at the forefront of this tried
and trendy formula: offer 4z drinks and a small 8z menu
of traditional vodka and beer snacks in dingy environs
that conjure communist nostalgia while simultaneously
being a subtle backlash against the increasing cost and
ostentation of the citys nightlife. Did we get that right?
Essentially the anti-cocktail lounge, Pijalnias faithful
have us in the fold for being one of the citys most fun
destinations any time of day or night, and for making
vodka blindness cool again. Finally. Second location at
ul. Szewska 20 (B-3). Q Open 24hrs. GW
Zakski Przekski
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NIGHTLIFE
Clubs
Wi th roughl y 120,000 students and a growing tourist
industry egging it on, Krakws club scene continues to
expand beyond reason, with each successive offing trying to
out-swank its predecessor. The main hedonist high streets
are Floriaska (C-2/3) and Szewska (B-3) where narry a
medieval cellar will be left unthronged by sexed-up students
on a Friday or Saturday night. Dont be surprised to encounter
weekend cover charges ranging anywhere from 5-20z at
most venues, and dont expect to find toilet paper in any of
them after 22:00. Clubs in the Kazimierz district appear in
their own section.
Baccarat C-3, ul. Stolarska 13, tel. (+48) 695 11 67
60, www.baccaratclub.pl. Walk beyond the velvet rope
of Baccarat and you notice one thing immediately: a lot of
money has been spent on making this arguably the most
stylish and extravagant music club in Krakw. Covered in
plush upholstery and full of fine touches including every
elegant chandelier and lamp, the giant mirrorball DJ station,
and even a room with a dance-pole and wall-size mirror that
can be coyly curtained off, Baccarat clearly raises the bar
on Krakws nightlife scene. Though theyve since added a
smoking room, this swanky swish tank was the first to go
completely non-smoking in the days of the dingy Krakw
cellar club, which might explain why it still looks as great as
ever. Expect to pay a small cover after 23:00. Q Open Thu,
Fri, Sat only: 20:00 - 04:00. PAXW
Baroque C-2, ul. w. Jana 16, tel. (+48) 12 422 01
06, www.baroque.com.pl. The addition of this upscale
cellar club to one of the Old Towns top pre-party destina-
tions will save lucky Lotharios the legwork of looking for your
dance-floor larks elsewhere, and the incomparable drinks
from the upstairs cocktail bar send plenty of tipsy vixens
spilling straight down into this sultry spider-web. Covering
great food, vodka, cocktails, a summer garden and DJ par-
ties, Baroque is one of the most complete venues in town
and almost unmissable for anyone who views modernity as
maturity and sexiness as sophistication. QOpen Thu, Fri,
Sat only: 21:00 - 03:00. PABXW
base music club B-3, ul. w. Anny 6 (entrance from ul.
Jagielloska), tel. (+48) 883 93 00 03, www.baseclub.
pl. Long gone, it would seem, are the days when youd just
throw some chairs in a basement, some beer in a fridge
and call it a club. Base continues Krakws current cash-
on-the-cuff club trend by pimping a spectacular 400 square
metres of cellar space into another posh pleasure den, this
one directly across from the ancient attic where Copernicus
about-faced the field of astronomy almost 500 years ago.
Full of fluctuating colours, padded bricks and reflective floors,
Base features four distinctive bars in four aesthetic styles,
two air-conditioned dance floors where DJs slice and splice
the latest sounds, and the obligatory VIP section occupying
the ground floor. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00, Thu 22:00 - 03:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PAXW
Burlesque C-3, Rynek Gwny 42/ul. w. Jana 1 (The
Bonerowski Palace), tel. (+48) 694 44 01 90, www.
burlesqueclub.eu. Located in the cellars of the market
squares 16th century Bonerowski Palace, the main draw of
this intimate dance club with silk-draped ceilings innovatively
strung with illuminated strands are the cheeky burlesque
performances that take place Friday and Saturday after mid-
night, when the clubs resident dancers take to the elevated
stage in skimpy 1930s cabaret attire and tease the howling
crowds with dance routines that stop short of stripping,
but certainly leave little to the imagination. Its an intimate
experience and one that carefully treads a line of being just
classy enough to bring the wife to. Despite the face police at
the door, once youre downstairs its less intimidating than
youd expect with fun music and an atmosphere that isnt
too snobby for students or too grubby for gentiles. Actually,
its a hell of a good time. Tables are limited, so reservations
would be wise. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
PAEXW
Cie (Shadow) C-2, ul. w. Jana 15, tel. (+48) 12
422 21 77, www.cienklub.com. One of Krakws best
regarded clubs for several years running, Cie is a wet
dream for foreign lads weaned on commercial house music
and enjoying favourable exchange rates while being fawned
over by bombshell blondes who make a sport of their sex
appeal. It may be all smoke, mirrors and false phone num-
bers under the interrogation lamp of the dawn, but witness
yourself scrambling back for more. More posturing than truly
exclusive, as long as youve made the effort to look the part
and can stand up straight, your impatience with the door
queue is probably the most likely thing to keep you out of
Cies medieval cellars. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Sun. PAXW
Diva Music Gallery C-3, ul. w. Tomasza 20, tel.
(+48) 12 429 20 66, www.divaclub.pl. A young fashioni-
stas idea of paradise, Diva unfolds over two levels: the sexy
cellar club full of disco balls and laser beams, leather divans
and scantily-clad sirens beyond the red velvet rope, and the
new ground floor cocktail lounge for those who dont make
it past the pretentious face control. The former makes for a
fun place to mingle with coquettish calendar girls between
pretending to enjoy dancing to soulless electro music, while
the latter is a better daytime destination for being seen
with an expensive cocktail before swanking off to your own
When it comes to late night street food, Krakw has
you covered. Though youll find kebab stands all over
popular nightli fe thoroughfares like ul. Floriaska
and ul. Szewska in the Old Town, the best of them
is Pod Oson Nieba at the corner of Plac Wszytkich
witych and ul. Grodzka (C-4); though with the low
quality of Cracovian kebabs, thats not saying much.
Your options are actuall y better than that, from all
ni ght pierogi shops to the 24hr vodka and herring
bars that have sprung up all over town (see Zakski
Przekski). Perhaps Polands most popular street
food i s the zapiekanka (see Cracovian Cooki ng
box for more) and the best place to get one is out of
one of the hatches of the Plac Nowy roundhouse
(D-6) which generally stay open until at least 02:00.
Required eating by any visitor, the only late night food
spot more legendary is the Kielbaski z Niebieskiej
Nyski sidewalk sausage stand. For more on Krakws
best late night eats, see below:
Gospoda Koko B-3, ul. Gobia 8, tel. (+48) 12
430 21 35, www.gospodakoko.pl. The real virtue of
Koko is revealed at 2:00 in the morning when you want
a civilised sit down meal without the company of tzatziki
dribbling drunks. Serving generous portions of stodgy
Polish classics like pierogi and fried cutlets for the same
price as a kebab deep into drinking hours, this is a handy
alternative for anyone looking to fortify their stomach
without making a mess of their shirtfront. Formerly
stuffed into an obscure back corner, Kokos popularity
has brought about the opening of a second street-side
dining room which significantly outclasses the original
space in terms of rustic charm. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00.
AUBXSW
Kielbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski E- 4, ul. Grze-
grzecka (Hala Targowa). This legendary sidewalk
sausage stand has been a Cracovian street food
institution for the last twenty years. Here two old boys
in white smocks set up shop outside their blue Nyska (a
Soviet model van) every evening except Sundays to grill
kiebasa sausages over a wood fired stove for the hungry,
drunken masses. For 8z you get a delicious sausage,
slightly stale roll, ketchup, mustard and an unforgettable
experience. Dont miss it if youre in the neighbourhood.
QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun.
Scandale Royal B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 2, tel.
(+48) 12 422 13 33, www.scandale.pl. Thi s
sexy lounge and bistro has its own special late night
menu served from 22:00 until close, comprised of
tasty tapas dishes. Choose from exotic and elegant
finger foods like bruschetta, tuna empanadillas, Black
Tiger prawns with garlic, meat balls and a lot more.
QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00. (8-23z).
PAUXSW
Zapiecek Ekspres C-2, ul. Sawkowska 32, tel.
(+48) 12 422 74 95, www.zapiecek.eu. Join legions
of happy locals tucking into the legendary pierogi served
with no fuss, no formality by an unsmiling lady from be-
hind a counter. It is a long way from fine dining but for a
quintessential Krakw experience there are few better
places to come. Now open all night, its cheaper than a
kebab and a much better value when everything else is
closed. Q Open 24 hrs. (9-14z). GS
Late Night Eats
sel f-image in one of the many mirrors suspended on the
walls. On weekends prepare to dispense some cash to get
downstairs. QOpen 16:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00.
PAUEBXW
Frantic C-3, ul. Szewska 5, tel. (+48) 12 423 04 83,
www.frantic.pl. Dance alongside hourglass figures in what
asserts itself as one of Krakws best clubs/meat markets.
The design is your typical Cracovian cellar contrast of rough
exposed rock, modern-minimal decor and illuminated boxes,
but the soundsystem lures some of the best DJs around to
put together a regular programme of top parties for Polish
pussycats and their savvy suitors. A feast of flesh and fast
times for those with well-rehearsed chat-up lines eager to
jump inside the cats pajamas. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00, Fri
22:50 - 03:00, Sat 22:30 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.
PAXW
Gorczka (Fever) B-3, ul. Szewska 7, tel. (+48)
12 421 92 61. Neatly located at the nexus of Krakws
clubbing corridor, Gorczka has always been the sloppy,
care-free, rebellious younger sister of the Szewska family,
ready to break a bottle, break into tears or take off with
the first guy who invites her to his place. Following a cheap
make-up job/renovation, the character of this place hasnt
changed a bit. Dodge the queues next door, look nice and
win entrance to this fun meat-market full of eager ladies
making-out with their dance partners and sweaty dudes
wi th open shirts and wandering hands prowling to the
extremely loud, but proven dance hits that always keep
everyones flesh in friction. Its a playful atmosphere and
youre guaranteed to have a drink spilled on you, but none-
theless, youve got every reason to feel bad about yoursel f
i f youre heading home alone. QOpen 17:00 - 04:00, Fri,
Sat 17:00 - 05:00. PAX
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NIGHTLIFE
73
NIGHTLIFE
Kitsch ul. Grodzka 1 (first floor), tel. (+48) 518 87
90 55, www.kitsch.pl. Reopening in a much classier
building right off the market square, the new Kitsch bears
a striking resemblance to its old sel f, which was a seedy
all-night Cracovian clubbing staple for years. Ascend the
stairs and bear right to find the familiar fur-trimmed bar
backed by the same kitsch accoutrements - lava lamp,
stuffed tiger, Santa Claus doll...and suddenly youre hav-
ing flashdance flashbacks of all the mornings you spent
straddling and spilling beer on dressed-down, sexed-up,
faceless strangers on the dark dance floor before follow-
ing someone outside only to be lost and leaning forward
the whole walk home. Right? Never a cover and never an
off-night, Kitsch 2.0 now creates those beauti ful memories
for a new crowd of shameless students and foreigners
every night - the main di fferences being theres no pole
on the dance floor (blasphemy), and across the hall is
a sitting room for smokers beneath a fur-framed photo
of kittens. Meow. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
21:00 - 06:00. PAX
Ministerstwo (The Ministry) C-3, ul. Szpitalna
1, tel. (+48) 12 421 12 17. A well-loved design in this
subterranean sinners resort features lots of tile, gold
brick, exposed rock, three bars, two DJ stations and raised
seating areas to retreat from the dancefloor action where
an ecl ectic range of funk, ol d school and break beats
are likely to lure you. The smell of Tabasco from mad
dog shots lingers at the bar where bronze ass-groping
barstools gi ve you a free frisking. Al ways packed wi th
students and party people, Ministerstwo hosts the citys
best midweek party on otherwise sleepy Tuesday nights
and the laidback ground-floor garden is one of the best
kept secrets in Krakw during the warmer months. QOpen
18:00 - 03:00, Fri 18:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 05:00.
Closed Sun. PAXW
Prozak 2.0 C- 4, Pl. Dominikaski 6. Having gone from
A-list to a miss and then just completely missing, this
well-known dance club has been renovated and re-launched
itsel f as Prozak 2.0. Once a honey-trap for horny foreign-
ers hoping to pull from the pool of bottle blondes happily
putting drinks on their tabs, Prozak has used its absence
to get out of most of the guidebooks (not this one), back
into the good graces of Krakws serious clubbing scene,
and onto the cutting edge with an impressive line-up of
top DJs on weekends. The interior, while spruced up a bit,
hasnt particularly changed and remains an endless maze
of underground rooms over two levels with an incredible four
bars and three dance-floors on which to wild out. The crowd
is mostly local, but just as fun, flirty and foreign-friendly as
ever with the party continuing until the natural selection of
those with blondes and those with kebabs takes place in
the blurry light of another dawn. Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat only:
21:00 - 03:00. PAXW
Rozrywki Trzy D-3, ul. Mikoajska 3. Essentially the
Pikny Pies of the Old Town, this somewhat inconspicuous
club near May Rynek draws a similarly diverse crowd of
curious tourists, eager students, aimless artists, hard-living
hipsters and acknowledged alcoholics. Split over two floors
with plenty of seating, smoking areas, a seasonal garden,
two bars, and a separate room that hosts frequent concerts
and DJ parties, Rozrywki 3 has wide appeal despite making
little effort. The furnishings attempt to be nothing more than
functional and theres no face control - getting out is a lot
more difficult than getting in. One of the best places in the
Old Town if youre looking for a long night full of spontane-
ous dancing, but actually dislike nightclubs. QOpen 18:00
- 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. PEXW
Shakers Krakw B-3, ul. Szewska 5 (first floor), tel.
(+48) 660 11 40 34, www.where2b.org/Shakers. Actu-
ally the name references the cocktail twisting barstaff, but
there are still plenty of shimmying posteriors in here. Shakers
is your classic Cracovian cocktail club: just snooty enough
for the concept to succeed, but not so up its own...shaker
that you wont have a great time. DJ nights range from funk to
electro, with the action happening on an intimate dancefloor
between the bar and posh toilets. Cocktails range from 13-
30z and though the list isnt that creative, the bartenders
put on an impressive juggling show. Violet walls, black booths
with gaudy gold pillows that match the round gold tables and
the ubiquitous FTV make up the decor of this velvet rope
affair. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 22:00 - 04:00.
Closed Wed. PAXW
Spoem C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 4, tel. (+48) 12 421 79
79, www.pubspolem.pl. Cheekily borrowing their name
from a cooperative network of shops prolific across Poland
during communist times (many of which are still open),
Spoems underground cellars are cluttered with communist-
era appliances and plastered with propaganda posters and
discontinued banknotes. The Soviet-nostalgia also applies
to the smokey atmosphere and the kitsch Polish pop/disco
parties held in the back room where the DJ station is cleverly
tucked into a Soviet-era truck and the dance floor packed with
fun-loving revelers young enough to enjoy the irony. I guess
you can count us among them, because we had a great time.
QOpen 18:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. PAXW
Lizard King C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 11a, tel. (+48)
601 69 20 32, www.lizardking- krakow.pl. Fol -
lowing their success in other Polish cities, Lizard King
has brought music to the masses of Krakw, largely
otherwise deprived of a proper rock venue. Expect paid
entry to see their nightly noisy Polish rock acts, plus
expensive beer and cocktails that do nothing to dent its
popularity. An abundance of balconies and tables leading
to a large stage with an old-school LED display pixelating
behind it make up the head-banging burnt sienna interior.
Arrive early or reserve a table if you have more than a
passing interest in the evenings performance. QOpen
18:00 - 02:00; Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. From May open
15:00 - 02:00; Fri, Sat 15:00 - 04:00. Concerts generally
start at 20:00 or 21:00. PAEXW
PiecArt C-3, ul. Szewska 12, tel. (+48) 12 429 64
25, www.piecart.pl. The most attractive of Krakws
jazz dens, and as such a honey pot for pompous, preened
jazz know-it-alls. The vaulted interiors make for great
acoustics and frequently attract the biggest names in
the city during evening concerts, but stand warned about
the rife snobbism of punters and staff alike. Live jazz
concerts take place almost every night but you should
check their website for the exact schedule. QOpen
16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. PAEXW
Stalowe Magnolie (Steel Magnolias) C-2,
ul. w. Jana 15, tel. (+48) 12 422 84 72, www.
stalowemagnolie.com. Not dissimilar to a 1920s
Parisian brothel, the interior of this legendary venue is an
appealing blend of scarlet fabrics and deep sofas, with
jewel-encrusted pictureframes and strings of red fairy
lights hanging from wrought iron fixtures. Instruments
cling to the walls as a team of young waitresses in eve-
ning dress bring premium-priced drinks to your table. The
live music is frequently outstanding, with velvet-voiced
chanteuses crooning into the night to the appreciative
applause of sharply attired couples and Rolexed busi-
nessmen. A club card gets you into the VIP section with
its own DJ station and bar, where plush, silk-canopied
beds forbid bashful behavior. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 19:00 - 04:00. PAEX
The Piano Rouge C-3, Rynek Gwny 46, tel.
(+48) 12 431 03 33, www.thepianorouge.com. A pet
project from the same team behind Stalowe Magnolie, so
expect much of the same. The interior is a sensory delight
washed in red, with plush loveseats, scattered cushions,
exotic lamps and an outstanding bartop lined with piano
keys. The Parisian decadence is matched perfectly with
live piano and jazz performances. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00. PAEG
U Muniaka C-3, ul. Floriaska 3, tel. (+48) 530 69
05 29, www.umuniaka.pl. Find one of Krakws most
legendary jazz clubs at the bottom of a flight of stairs in a
14th-century cellar just seconds away from St. Marys Ca-
thedral. Unchanged in years, though the names on stage
may have fallen off the cutting edge and its now mostly
clogged with tourists, U Muniaka is still a no bullshit jazz
venue: pay the no bullshit waitress (10-20z depending on
the night), take a seat and hear some no bullshit jazz mu-
sic. The acoustics are great, the atmosphere intimate and
attentive, and dont be surprised by unannounced appear-
ances by legends like Nigel Kennedy or Jarek mietana.
Enthusiasts shouldnt be disappointed. Concerts nightly
from 20:30. QOpen 18:30 - 02:00. PEGW
Live Music
Gold Club B-2, ul. Jagielloska 5, tel. (+48) 12 426
02 53, www.goldclub.com.pl. If youre in Krakw with
the lads, chances are good that youre going to end up
in one of the citys strip joints and few can match Gold
Club. This veteran skin showcase has always been one
of Krakws best and most trusted, and its move to a
new space in the Old Town only means you dont have to
pay cab fare to get there, or feel like youre trapped once
you do. Chances are youll be getting comfortable rather
quickly with lap dances starting at 70z and beers for
10z. Groups are obviously catered to and encouraged
(they even suggest erotic dance lessons for hen parties),
and you can print a voucher off their website for 50% off
entry and your first drink. QOpen 19:00 - 05:00. PAX
Taboo Gentlemens Club C-2, ul. Floriaska 33
(entrance from ul. w. Marka), tel. (+48) 12 426
26 06, www.tabooclub.pl. There was a time when
Krakows gentlemens clubs were relegated to the outer
limits and the grey areas of its urban grid (you know,
Dietla Street, around the train station). Whether you view
this as a good or bad thing, Taboo has been allowed to
set a new precedent by becoming the most centrally
located strip club in the Old Town. Find leather couches to
lounge on alongside ladies in lingerie, sculptures of naked
women holding up glass tabletops to set your drink on
and six curtained VIP rooms for privacy. Gone, it would
seem, are the days when the kebab stand was the sauci-
est stop on a Floriaska pub crawl and honestly, could
it really be Poland without Pole dancing? Also now at ul.
Szewska 21 (B-3). QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PAXW
Adult Entertainment
75
74
NIGHTLIFE
KAZIMIERZ NIGHTLIFE KAZIMIERZ NIGHTLIFE
bar with limited seating, but further investigation reveals a
large year-round heated garden (shared with Trattoria Pistola)
connected to a downstairs club space open on weekends and
during events. Patronised by young alternative types gathered
around great beer while discovering Jimmy Cliff and growing
out their dreadlocks, the decor pays homage to its namesake
by cleverly photo-shopping the famous Russian assault rifle
into the sepia inter-war pinups on the walls, with a few stray
Soviet radios and gas-masked mannequins laying around. The
vibe is good and the Polish micro-brews are great, making this
a nice escape from the mania out on the street. QOpen 12:00
- 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. PAGBW
Eszeweria D-6, ul. Jzefa 9, tel. (+48) 517 49 19 27.
Perhaps embodying the spirit of Kazimierz more than any
bar not directly on Plac Nowy, Eszewerias old world antiques,
candelabras, frosty mirrors and murky, stencilled walls once
played host to some of the citys most novel concerts, however
these days its more of a sleepy hang-out for hip nostalgics
with hand-rolled cigarettes dangling off their lips. Perfect for
ducking the tourists, having a quiet drink and catching the vibe
of the neighbourhood, the restroom may also be the most
romantic in town (no wonder theres a queue) and they have
a sister venue (Esze) across the street if you cant find a table.
QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. BXW
Le Scandale D-6, Pl. Nowy 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 55,
www.lescandale.pl. Some of the best cocktails in Krakw
- test the Bahama Mama - served inside a series of sleek
rooms that throng with Bond girls and people who look like
they may well be minor celebs. Great fusion food, an enormous
garden (heated in winter) and sexy service, this is modern
Krakw at its strongest. You may not want to leave. QOpen
08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00. PAUEBXW
Les Couleurs D-6, ul. Estery 10, tel. (+48) 12 429 42
70. The quintessential thinking mans cafe, Les Couleurs is a
special favourite among Krakws aging, dog-faced bohemians,
androgynous hipsters who wear oversized, non-prescription
glasses and anyone with a laptop. Plastered with classic French
posters and photos of Serge Gainsbourg, Kazimierzs most
well-lit bar - and one of its most well-loved - is an anytime affair
where cigarettes, coffee, beer, bile and blood are as interchang-
able and easily confused as work, pleasure and art; as day and
night. Recommended. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri 07:00 - 02:00,
Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. UBXW
Miejsce (The Place) D-6, ul. Estery 1, tel. (+48) 608
49 87 37, www.miejsce.com.pl. Opened by the owners of a
retro interior decor store by the same name, Miejsce instantly
established itself as Krakws hipster headquarters. With half
the patrons not hesitating to go behind the bar themselves,
here youve put yourself at the centre of a closely-knit social
scene, which a flapper dress or oversized spectacles and tight
pants will ease your integration into, if thats the goal. Decked
out in a rainbow of chairs and lamps of different shapes
and sizes, offset by hastily painted white walls and fantastic
Polish film posters, Miejsce is effortlessly original with a post-
industrial artsy atmosphere that makes a nice departure from
the brooding, gloomy nostalgia of the districts other offerings.
QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. AUGBW
Mleczarnia D-6, ul. Meiselsa 20, tel. (+48) 12 421 85
32, www.mle.pl. In summer this is the most glorious beer
garden in Krakw, and right next to an easily recognisable
film set from Spielbergs Schindlers List. If that parade gets
rained on, or you find yourself here during the dregs of winter,
take solace in the cross-street interior with its Old World
atmosphere of candlelight, rickety furniture, murky portraits,
wooden floors and wide-open, floor to ceiling street-side
windows (not to mention the enchanting bathroom). A great
place for a romantic evening conversation or afternoon cof-
fee with a book, this is what the whole of Kazimierz was once
about: taking things as they come. Recommended. QOpen
10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. AUGBW
Moment E-6, ul. Estery 22, tel. (+48) 668 03 40 00,
www.momentcafe.pl. From locals to tourists, laptoppers
to hipsters, they take all kinds in Moment and seem to know
how to please them all. The interior has recently swapped high,
sturdy tables for low, loungy sofas with splashy fabrics, and
though its not really an improvement (in fact it now just looks
like an extension of Nova next door), the menu is better than
ever with bargain breakfasts, Italian appetisers, wraps, salads
and a range of larger entrees. Plenty of Plac Nowy seating and
evening drink specials are yet more reasons why Moment has
become a popular place to lose track of time, not to mention
the clutch of inaccurate vintage clocks lining the walls, giving you
a handy excuse for missing your next day rendezvous with last
nights club conquest. Though this would be an ideal place for it.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. PAGBW
Mostowa Art Cafe E-7, ul. Mostowa 8, tel. (+48) 519
75 40 55. Notice from a distance all the sidewalk tables flush
with young people in what was once the nether regions of
Kazimierz and youll think youve just discovered the hippest
place in town. Upon closer examination, however, theres
really nothing that remarkable about Mostowa Artcafe: a
small interior with a few ordinary tables, white walls, and the
unimpressive art canvases of the month. And yet, combined
with Po Drodze - its equally unassuming neighbour next door
- this has indeed become the current place to be, passing
time drinking delicious microbrews (we recommend the dark
Magnus beer) out of a tiny fridge at a nondescript gallery/cafe/
bar on a quiet street between Plac Wolnica and the pedestrian
bridge to Podgrze. If you dont know, now you know, hipster.
QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. AUGBW
Omerta D- 6, ul. Warszauera 3 (entrance from ul.
Kupa), tel. (+48) 501 50 82 27, www.omerta.com.
pl. A cult hangout for local beer connoisseurs, Omerta has
expanded to include more tables, a second bar and even
more delicious drink options, making it harder than ever to
resist this sociable pub. Despite a somewhat tired mafia
theme replete with pics and quotes from The Godfather,
Omerta makes up for the lack of originality with one of the
best beer lists in town. The decisions begin with foreign or
domestic - the answer to which informs which bar to hedge up
to and receive an impressive menu of almost 50+ ales broken
down by category and even ranked for you; discover the joy
of miodowe (honey beer) among others. Well-tempered
locals create an ace atmosphere and repeat visits are
inevitable and encouraged. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 01:00. UGW
Singer D-6, ul. Izaaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 06 22. One
of the first bars in Kazimierz, Singer set the table for all that
was to come essentially inventing the evocative aesthetic
of cracked mirrors, dusky paintings, rickety antiques and
candlelight associated with the district today. Despite its
long tenure, lofty reputation and occassional intrusion of
tourists, today Singer still holds all the magic it did when
it first opened. A charismatic, even chimerical cafe by day,
Singer hits its stride around 3 am when tabletops turn into
dancefloors, the regulars abandon their drinks to dip and
spin each other to an energetic mix of gypsy, klezmer and
other ethnic music, the entire bar begins to feel like a ferris
wheel ready to fly off its axis and the boundaries of time are
obliterated. Yeah, weve had a few good ones here. QOpen
09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. PAUBXW
When the steady revitalisation of Krakws former Jewish
district began back in the nineties, much of the investment
came from business owners able to purchase derelict build-
ings, fill them with the curbside detritus pervading the area that
passes for furniture, add a shelf of liquers and presto! - open
a dark, dishevelled bar that perfectly captured the spirit of
the neighbourhood. The district quickly became synonymous
with cafes choked with smoke, candlelight, antiques and bo-
hemians, where under the stewardship of alcohol one might
be able to commune with a lost, forgotten world beneath the
haze. As the areas clean-up, aided by the 1993 release of
Schindlers List, brought more and more tourists to its histori-
cal sights, Kazimierz went through a renaissance that saw it
quickly develop into the citys hippest neighbourhood. Today
the area is chock-a-block with bars, clubs and restaurants,
even ousting the Old Town per square metre, and though a
trace of that original charisma vanishes with each new cocktail
bar opening, there is no better place in Krakw for a night out.
Kazimierzs history makes it a requisite stop for tourists, but it
is the districts nightlife that gives it its true vitality and much
of the mystique it still carries today.
Bars
Alchemia E-6, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 22 00,
www.alchemia.com.pl. One of Krakws most evocative
bars, aptly-named Alchemia perfectly captures the sepia
candlelight, forgotten photographs and antique intrigues of
the former Jewish district. A dim bohemian cafe by day with
square-side outdoor tables, in the evenings Alchemias murky
mystique metamorphoses blood into beer for the ruddy
regulars and increasing number of tourists queuing before
the indifferent barstaff. The cellar, when its not being used
as a student disco, plays host to some of the best concerts
in town and is a prime participant in annual jazz and klezmer
festivals. Quintessential Krakw. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00, Mon
10:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. AEBXW
Artefakt Cafe E-6, ul. Dajwr 3, tel. (+48) 535 79 96 66,
www.artefaktcafe.pl. A rightful successor to Ptasiek, Artefakt
takes this great space and expands on it physically - with a large
gallery space and separate garden (the entrance to which is a
couple doors down) - as well as culturally, with a wide range of
events and happenings that lure Krakws hipsters and art-
ists to its friendly confines. With two bars over two floors, the
upstairs is your quintessentially Kazimierz-cool hangout full of
odd furnishings and broken-spined books, while the downstairs
is plastered with theatre posters and features plenty of sofa
seating to observe whats going down on stage. While it seems
theres always something happening from concerts to chess
tournaments to comedy nights, even when theres not, youve still
got a great atmosphere, good people and Czech beers on draft.
Recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PAEGBW
Cafe & Club Kalashnikov D-6, ul. Boego Ciaa 7,
tel. (+48) 12 341 58 82, www.cafekalashnikov.pl. On
first glance Kalashnikov looks like a slender, low-key cafe/
Kitsch D-4, ul. Dajwr 16, tel. (+48) 518 87 90 55,
www.kitsch.pl. Since the collapsing stairwell incident
(shhhh...), Krakws legendary and flamboyant Kitsch
dance club has opened two new locations - one smack
on the market square, and this sloppy disco discreetly
hidden in Kazimierz next to the Galicia Jewish Museum.
While the market square spot is a proven and predictable
money-making tourist magnet meat market, it seems the
real fun/trouble has moved into this divey downstairs
club full of graffiti scrawl and accessed through a trashy
courtyard. When the seasonal garden is open, this large
location is quite a hip hangout, however Kitsch itself com-
mands little more than a crude concrete cellar. Still, the
spirit of Krakws most liberal and least bashful club is
now here, along with its legions of loyal fans letting loose
of their inhibitions as dance-floor brain damage ensues
into the early morning. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 20:00 - 06:00. PUBXW
Klub Pikny Pies D-6, ul. Boego Ciaa 9. The
Beautiful Dog is back with new digs in Kazimierz - a boho
district that better suits this cult drink tank for unwashed
artists, Dylan Thomas impersonators, cougar vampires,
counter-culture cuties and hard-living hipsters. The layout
of Pikny Pies 3.0 is conscientiously similar to its last
incarnation: though a bit more cramped in the front, the
back room - with its second bar, stage, DJ station and
dance floor - is a big improvement over the old space,
and of course chain-smoking is encouraged. Some great
concerts and DJs on the weekends, while the same great
playlist of classic rock, indie hits, post-punk and new wave
keeps the dancing spontaneous rather than obligatory
throughout the week. One of the best choices in Krakw
if you want a late night but not a nightclub, you can disre-
gard the hours because this place never closes. QOpen
12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAEXW
Literki E-5, ul. Berka Joselewicza 21, www.bar-
literki.pl. Down a strange alleyway (which also leads
to Goodbye Lenin Hostel) youll find this eclectic club
hidden in an old factory workshop. Embracing the nature
of the location, Literki is a huge industrial space over
two floors with a caged in balcony, a small dance-floor/
concert space with a thundering sound system, dark
lighting (indeed the brightest lights in the club illuminate
the drinks case) and some sharp iconic graphic art on the
walls depicting screws, gears and other recognisable in-
dustrial garbage. With great Polish and Czech microbrews
behind the bar, this curious cult venue is definitely worth
the trek, but their events and parties are so diverse we
cant tell you what to expect; check their webpage to find
out the flavour of the day. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
17:00 - 04:00. EXW
Taawa D-6, ul. Estery 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 06 00,
www.taawa.pl. Orange-skinned mini-skirted solarium
casualties will feel at home in this modern discotheque
that is clearly bringing a pretentious clubbing vibe into
this most unpretentious of neighbourhoods. Carpeting,
illuminated glass tables and purple leather furnishings
round out this refreshingly one room affair where long-
legged lookers dance to disappointingly mainstream
music. Looking to outclass Kazimierzs other clubs,
Taawa succeeds easily, especially in design, with strict
facecheck and dress code. Q Open Fri, Sat only: 21:00
- 05:00. PAX
Kazimierz Clubs
77
HISTORY
76
HISTORY
One of the oldest cities in Poland,
archaeological evidence proves that
there were settlements in the Krakw
area as early as the Palaeolithic pe-
riod, with stone tools found on Wawel
Hill dating back - way, way back - to
50,000BC. Legend attributes the
citys founding to Krakus, the mythi-
cal ruler who vanquished the Wawel
Dragon. The mysterious earthwork
Mounds named after Krakus and
his daughter Wanda, located in the
Podgrze and Nowa Huta districts
respectively, were probably built in the 7th century. However,
historians date the settlement of Krakws Old Town slightly
later in the 8th century, when it was the capital of a tribe of
pagan Slavs known as the Vistulans. By 966, the date of the
first written record of the citys name, Krakw had already grown
into a busy commercial centre, thanks in part to the amber trade.
In the late 9th century the region was ruled by the Moravians,
passing shortly thereafter to Bohemian rule before being
incorporated into the principality of the Piast dynasty in the
990s, thus creating the Kingdom of Poland. The city devel-
oped rapidly, acquiring its own bishopric in 1000, and in 1038
Krakw became the capital of Poland, with Wawel Royal Castle
becoming the residence of Polish kings. The 13th century was
marked by incessant Mongol invasions, the first occurring in
1241 when the city was almost entirely destroyed, but it was
dutifully rebuilt in time to be ravaged again in 1259 and 1287.
Following this last embarrassment, the city was surrounded
by 3 kilometres of defensive walls, towers and gates which
would be modernised over the next few centuries.
Krakw particularly flourished under the rule of Kazimierz
the Great (1333-1370), who expanded Wawel Castle and
established two new cities - Kleparz and Kazimierz - which
were closely connected with and would later be incorporated
into Krakw. A huge patron of the arts and sciences, in 1364
he founded the Krakw Academy, now known as Jagiellonian
University - one of the oldest institutions of higher learning in
Europe. Prosperity continued during the joint Polish-Lithuanian
Jagiello dynasty (1386-1572) as Krakw experienced its
golden age. Talented artists, humanists and scientists arrived
from Renaissance Italy and Germany to create impressive new
buildings, sculptures, frescos and other artworks and Wawel
Castle was turned into a pearl of Renaissance architecture.
However, after several centuries of roaring times the citys
fortunes began to turn with the death of King Zygmunt II in
1572, who left no heir. With the throne passing to the Swed-
ish House of Vasa, Krakws importance began to decline,
resulting in Sigismund IIIs decision to move the Polish capital
to Warsaw in 1596; however Krakw maintained its role as
the official site of royal coronations and burials.
The 17th century was marked by the pillaging of the Swedish
Invasion (1655) and a bout with the Black Death that claimed
20,000 residents. In the late 18th century, Poland passed
the worlds second democratic constitution (after the US)
on May 3, 1791, however only days later the countrys more
militarised and expansionist-minded neighbours Russia,
Prussia and Austria invaded and imposed the First Partition of
Poland (1772-73) on the weakened country; a second partition
transpired twenty years later. Krakw developed a reputa-
tion as a bastion of rebellion against foreign invaders and in
1794, Polish freedom-fighter Tadeusz Kociuszko initiated his
famous Insurrection on Krakws market square; it eventually
failed and the Prussians soon stepped into the city to loot the
entire royal treasury. Poland was partitioned a third time (1795)
and Krakw became part of the Austrian province of Galicia.
Thanks to Napoleon, the city flirted with various forms
of semi-independence from 1809 to 1846 before being
absorbed back into Austria. Under Austrian occupation
Krakws fortified city walls were levelled - with the notable
exceptions of the section around the Floriaska Gate and
the Barbican - and the Planty park was created where they
once stood. Austrian rule was more lenient than that imposed
in the Russian and Prussian-ruled partitions and as a result
Krakw became a centre of Polish nationalism, culture and
art during the pre-war fin de siecle era. The city was also
modernised during this time with running water, electricity
and the first electric streetcars (1901) all being installed
ahead of Warsaw in the first decade of the 20th century.
When the First World War broke out, Krakw was besieged
by Russian troops forcing many residents to flee the city.
Krakw became the first Polish city liberated from Austrian
rule on October 31st, 1918 when a planned revolt against
the Austrian garrison in Podgrze freed the city in advance
of the wars end. The Treaty of Versailles would establish the
first sovereign Polish state in over a century, however twenty
years later in September 1939, Nazi German forces entered
Krakw, setting up command of their General Government
(the Nazi term for the occupied Polish lands slated to be purified
and incorporated into the Rhineland) in Wawel Castle. Over
150 professors from Jagiellonian University were rounded
up and shipped to concentration camps in what is known as
Sonderaktion Krakau. The Jewish population was ejected
from Kazimierz into a ghetto in the Podgrze district, with
the Liban and Paszw work and concentration camps close
by. The Jewish ghetto, whose population fluctuated between
15,000 and 18,000, was liquidated in 1943 with its occupants
shot where they stood, sent to work in Paszw or sent to their
deaths in nearby Auschwitz. Krakw was liberated on January
18th 1945, with the architectural fabric of the city miraculously
coming through the Soviet offensive almost completely intact.
Following WWII, the dubious process of Sovietisation began,
and the district of Nowa Huta was built around the countrys
largest steel mill in the late 1940s in an attempt to weaken
Krakws intellectual and artistic heritage through industri-
alisation. Almost forty-five years of communism followed,
including a year and a half of martial law, before the Solidarity
independent trade union gathered enough momentum to
force free elections in 1989 in which Lech Wasa became the
first post-communist president of Poland. In 1978 Krakws
Old Town and Kazimierz districts were placed on the first
UNESCO World Heritage List and in the same year Krakws
archbishop Karol Wojtya became the first non-Italian pope
in 455 years. Because of its preservation, today Krakw
is arguably Polands most important historical and cultural
artefact. In 2011 the city was visited by 8.6 million tourists.
966: First written record of the city
990: Incorporated into the Piast dynasty
1000: Krakw bishopric established
1038: Krakw becomes the capital of Poland
1241: The beginning of 50 years of Mongol mayhem
1257: Krakw granted municipal rights
1320: Coronation of King Wadysaw the Short in Wawel
Cathedral, the first royal coronation in Krakw
1335: Kazimierz is founded on the eastern bank of the
Wisa River
1364: Jagiellonian University founded
1386: Krakw wedding of Polish Queen Jadwiga and
Li thuanian grand duke Jagi ell o creates the
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
1596: Polish capital moved to Warsaw
1655: Swedish army captures and devastates the city
1683: King Jan III Sobieski leads his Polish army from
Krakw to Vienna, defeating the Turks and sav-
ing Christian Europe
1734: Coronation of King August III, the final coronation
in Wawel Cathedral
1791: The May 3rd Constitution is passed; the First
Partition of Poland follows
1794: Prussi an army captures Krakw after the
Kociuzko Uprising; citys regalia stolen and lost
forever
1796: Krakw becomes part of Austrian Galicia after
the Third Partition of Poland
1918: Poland returns to the map of Europe
1939: Nazi occupation begins
1941: The Jewish Ghetto is established in the Podgrze
district
1942: Establishment of the Paszw concentration
camp in Podgrze
1943: Liquidation of the Krakw Ghetto
1945: Krakw liberated by the Soviet Army
1947: Construction begins on Nowa Huta
1978: Krakws Old Town, Wawel and Kazimierz added
to the UNESCO World Heritage List; Karol Wojtya
inaugurated as Pope John Paul II
1981: Martial law declared in Poland
1983: Martial law lifted; Lech Wasa wins the Nobel
Peace Prize
1989: Party-free el ecti ons i n Pol and; Communi st
regime crumbles
1999: Poland joins NATO
2000: Krakw is the first Polish city to named European
Capital of Culture
2002: 2.5 million people gather on the Bonia to par-
ticipate in a mass by Pope John Paul II
2004: Poland joins the European Union
2005: Pope John Paul II passes away plunging PL into
national mourning
2007: Krakw cel ebrates the 750 anni versary of
obtaining city rights and reaches its zenith as a
tourist destination
2010: President Lech Kaczyski and 95 other Polish
delegates die in a plane crash near Smolensk,
Russia; Kaczyski and his wife Maria are con-
troversially buried in the Royal Crypts at Wawel
2012: PL successfully hosts the Euro 2012 football
tournament
Krakw Historical Timeline
One of the most fas-
ci nati ng tradi ti ons for
t our i st s and Cr aco-
vians is the hejna (pro-
nounced hey-now) a
short, mel odious bugl e
call played every hour
from the east, west,
north and south si des
of St. Mar y Basi l i cas
l eft tower (C-3).
Ergo the most fasci -
nat i ng and envi abl e
profession carri ed out
54m above t he ci t y
has to be that of the trumpeter who plays i t. Mi cha
Ko ton has been responsi bl e for the tradi tion since
2006 when he took over the rol e from his father,
Jan Ko ton, Senior Fire Marshall for the Krakw Fire
Brigade. Jan himsel f had been climbing the 239 steps
of St. Marys tower to carry out the tradi tion since
1971, keeping the hejna in the famil y after his own
fathers 35-year stint.
But the j ob is more than a source of pri de and fam-
il y heri tage. The seven firemen chosen to play are
on call for a 24-hour rotation then of f for 48 hours.
While on call, they must be alert every hour to ring the
church bell and play precisel y on the hour. The seven
trumpeters carry out their duty wi th great discipline,
as such a l ong-lasting tradi tion cannot be negl ected.
And what a tradi tion i t is. The most commonl y read
l egend tracing the hej na is that one morning in 1241
the Tartars invaded Krakw (as they al ways do). The
warning song was blared to arouse the slumbering
ci ty to arms. The man playing was shot in the neck,
thus abruptl y cutti ng of f the song i n mi d-mel ody.
To this day, the tune cuts of f in mi d-recapi tulation
symbolizing Krakws vigilance as well as commemo-
rating the l one ni ght guard who aroused the ci ty to
defence, thereby saving i t. However, Polish j ournalist
Leszek Mazan wrote in Polityka magazine that he
believes American j ournalist John M. Kell y fabricated
the l egend in 1929.
While li ttle to no documentation regarding the origins
of the song has been found, Mr. Ko ton and the other
players are certai n the songs story far precedes
John Kell ys wri ting as a fire warning for the ci ty. The
mel ody came from Hungary and was appropriatel y
used as a warning for fires or invasions as the word
hej na in Hungarian means wake up. Prior to the
15th centur y when the tower on St. Mar ys was
compl eted, this warning was sounded from the ci ty
walls, whi ch is most likel y where the l egendary trum-
peter was shot and kill ed. Whil e the histori cal birth
and devel opment of Krakws trademark remains a
mystery, any visi tor or Cracovian will surel y attest
that the hejnas li ving tradi tion defines and shapes
Krakw. In addi tion to pl easing visi tors abl e to wi t-
ness the bugl e call li ve from the church tower every
hour, the tune can also be heard all over Poland when
i t is broadcast li ve every day at noon on Jedynka
Radio, number 89.4 on the radio dial in Maopolska.
The Hejna
Rynek Gwny and the Cloth Hall, 1870
78 79
OLD TOWN
Krakw has always been, in many respects, a charmed city.
With a history that dates back to the 4th century settlement
of Wawel Hill, Krakw has fortuitously avoided destruction
since the pesky Mongols stopped bullying the area in the
13th century, growing into one of the most prominent cities
in Central Europe. The most important city in Poland not
to come out of World War II looking like a trampled Lego
set, even the Soviets failed to leave their mark on the en-
chanted city centre during 45 years of supervision, forced
to erect their gray communist Utopia in the outlying suburb
of Nowa Huta. As a result, Krakw is today one of the most
beautiful showpieces of Eastern Europe - a claim validated
by its historic centres inclusion on the first ever UNESCO
World Heritage List in 1978, along with the nearby Wieliczka
Salt Mine and only ten other places in the world. A city of
majestic architectural monuments, cobbled thoroughfares,
cultural treasures, timeless courtyards, priceless artworks
and legendary beer cellars and gardens, Krakws historic
centre is the pride of Poland.
What To See
Krakws centre can be divided into two main sections - the
Old Town and Kazimierz (the former Jewish Quarter), with
Wawel towering between them. These three areas are
requisite for anyone visiting the city - even if just for a day
- and have been given their own separate treatment with
accompanying cultural listings within this guide. Though one
could spend their life wandering in and out of the cobbled
streets, courtyards, cafes, clubs and museums of the Old
Town and Kazimierz (weve attempted to make a life out of
it), dont hesitate to take a trip across the river into Podgrze
- arguably the citys most evocative and mysterious district;
the Jewish heritage trail also naturally leads here where the
worst horror of Krakws Nazi occupation played out and
Schindler made a name for himself.
Just west of the Old Town lies Salwator - Krakws greenest
district, and home to one of its most unique outdoor attrac-
tions, Kociuszko Mound. Within these pages youll also find
a section devoted to Nowa Huta, one of only two planned
socialist realist cities ever built. Designed to be the antithesis
of everything Krakws Old Town represents, both culturally
and aesthetically, the commie comforts of Nowa Huta are
only a tram ride away. Those staying in the area for a week
or more should strongly consider day trips to Wieliczka,
Auschwitz-Birkenau and Tarnw, information about all
of which youll find here by reading on. However long your
stay, the meticulously updated information in this guide will
help you make the most of it. Enjoy exploring Krakw and
Maopolska.
OLD TOWN
ible altarpiece and stained glass. Its from atop the taller of
the two cathedral towers that a bugler plays an abbreviated
tune every hour on the hour - dont miss it. On the other side
of the square youll find the Town Hall Tower, with a viewing
platform at the top (open in season) and a theatre and bar
in the former basement prison.
Leaving the Rynek follow the kings down ul. Grodzka to
pl. Wszystkich witych (C-4). To the right is St. Francis
Basilica (B/C-4) with an Art Nouveau interior by Stanisaw
Wyspiaski that should not be missed, while directly before
you are three more incredible stained glass windows by
Krakws favourite son in a specially-made modern building.
Ulica Grodzka leads you past SS Peter & Pauls Church
(C-4) with its striking sculptures of the 12 disciples posed
before it. Cut across the small square to your right and youll
find yourself on one of Krakws most handsome streets,
ul. Kanonicza. The late Pope John Paul IIs former residence
is at numbers 19-21, which now house the Archdiocesan
Museum (C-5). Kanonicza lets out directly at the foot of
Wawel Castle (B/C-5), the citys defining landmark. A
source of great pride, patriotic and spiritual strength, Wawel
is worth spending half a day exploring, as well as the Wisa
riverbanks below.
Other Old Town highlights include the fabulous 20th century
art collection on the top floor of the main building of the
National Museum (H-3). The Old Town is also home to
the second oldest university in Central Europe. Jagielloian
Universitys Collegium Maius (B-3) is the schools oldest
building and was the studying place of Copernicus. Take
an hour out to see the incredible library and lecture hall,
as well as the oldest surviving globe in the world to depict
the Americas. Finally, anyone looking to do some bizarre
bargain hunting should head to one of Krakws catch-all
marketplaces, with Stary Kleparz (C/D-1) and Hala Tar-
gowa (E-4) - especially during the latters Sunday morning
flea market - being bona fide cultural experiences in their
own right (see Shopping for more).
SIGHTSEEING
SS Peter & Pauls Church Photo: Pawe Krzan,
krzan.pl, krakow4u.pl
The main market square and St. Marys Basilica.
Any exploration of Krakws Old Town should start with
the Royal Route - the historical coronation path of Polish
kings when Krakw served as the royal capital from the
14th century to the very end of the 16th century. Most of
the Old Towns prime sights lay along this route from the
Floriaska Gate to Wawel Castle. For many of less noble
lineage, however, the route begins at Krakws train sta-
tion (E-1), a walk from which to the main market square
is among the most regal and awe-inspiring introductions
to any city in Europe. Following the human traffic from the
station through the ul. Basztowa underpass will plant you in
the green space that encircles the Old Town known as the
Planty (D-2). Ideal for a fair weather stroll, the Planty was
once a series of medieval forti fications surrounded by a
moat. After Polands Third Partition in the late 18th century,
the order came down from Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph
I to dismantle these neglected structures, however thanks
to local effort the northern parts of the wall were spared,
including the magni ficent Barbican and Floriaska Gate.
Walking the two blocks towards the Barbican, take note of
the Sowacki Theatre (D-2) to the left on ul. Szpitalna. A
marvellous Baroque masterpiece from 1893, while its a
bit difficult to infiltrate during the day, buying an affordable
ticket to the theatre is highly recommended. On ahead, the
circular fortress of the Barbican (D-2) was added to the
citys defences in the late 15th century while, directly across
from it, the Floriaska Gate (D-2) that officially began the
Royal Route dates back to 1307. Pass through it and youre
on one of Krakws main commercial streets. Behind the
Golden Arches, kebab and souvenir signs dont fail to notice
the architectural detail of the facades. On this street youll
find the Jan Matejko House and Museum, as well as the
underappreciated Pharmacy Museum (C-2).
Arriving upon Krakws main market square or Rynek (C-3),
you are now standing in the heart of Poland with your finger
on its pulse. Historically, culturally and spiritually the Rynek
and Wawel may be the two most important sights in the
country (sorry Warsaw). The largest medieval market square
in Central Europe, Krakws Rynek is 200 metres square and
functions as the citys social gravitation point. Lined with
cafes and restaurants, filled with people, pigeons, street
performers, musicians and horse-drawn carriages, this is a
place of festivals, concerts, parades and other events. At its
centre lies the impressive Cloth Hall or Sukiennice - a neo-
Gothic structure which has served as a market for merchants
since the Middle Ages, and whose history you can now learn in
the Rynek Underground museum housed beneath it, not to
mention the wonderful 19th Century Polish Art Gallery on
the first floor. Directly before you as youre leaving Floriaska
is St. Marys Basilica - or Mariacki Cathedral - one of the
most dazzling cathedrals in the country famed for its incred-
Cracow City Tours D-1, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48)
12 421 13 33, www.cracowcitytours.pl. Also at
ul. Floriaska 44 (D-2, tel. 12 421 13 27, open 09:30 -
20:00). QOpen 07:45 - 20:00. Y
DiscoverCracow.eu C-3, Rynek Gwny 30, tel.
(+48) 12 346 38 99, www.discovercracow.eu.
Also at ul. w. Jana 2 (C-3, open 09:00 - 20:00) and ul.
Grodzka 28-30 (C-4, open 09:00 - 20:00). Offering tours
of Krakow and the surrounding area including Auschwitz-
Birkenau, Zakopane and Wieliczka for individuals and
groups. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Jordan Tourist Information and Accommoda-
tion Centre D-2, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 12 422
60 91, www.it.jordan.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Krakw History Museum Visitor Services Cen-
tre C-3, Rynek Gwny 1/3, tel. (+48) 12 426 50 60,
www.mhk.pl. Tourist info, ticket sales and gift shop for
all 15 branches of the Krakw History Museum. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00, Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Tue 10:00 - 16:00.
See Krakow C/D-2, ul. Floriaska 6, tel. (+48) 12
429 44 99, www.seekrakow.com. Also at ul. Grodzka
18 (C-4, open 09:00 - 20:30), ul. Grodzka 59 (C-5, open
09:00 - 19:00), Pl. Wszystkich witych 2 (C-4, open
09:00 - 19:00) and the ul. Basztowa underpass (D-2,
open 09:00 - 20:30). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Tourist Information
May Rynek. Photo: Pawe Krzan, krzan.pl, krakow4u.pl
The Wawel Dragon entertains on the Wisa riverbank.
Credit: Pawe Krzan, More beautiful photos of Krakw
available online at krzan.pl, krakow4u.pl
81
OLD TOWN
80
OLD TOWN
St. Marys Basilica (Bazylika
Mariacka) C-3, Pl. Mariacki 5,
tel. (+48) 12 422 07 37, www.
mariacki.com. Tartar invasi ons
of the 13th century left the original
church in a heap of ruins and con-
struction began on St. Marys using
the existing foundations. It doesnt
matter how many times you see
i t, the al tarpi ece, stai ned gl ass
windows of the nave, and the blue,
starred ceiling will take your breath away. The magnificent
altarpiece was for 12 painstaking years the principal work of
the 15th century German artist Veit Stoss (aka Wit Stwosz),
and depicts the Virgin Marys Quietus among the apostles.
Surrounding the altar are polychrome paintings by Matejko,
Mehoffer and Wyspiaski. Several local legends are attached
to St. Marys. The architect of the smaller tower murdered his
brother (the architect of the taller), apparently jealous that his
structure was shorter and less elaborate. Racked with guilt
he then committed suicide by throwing himself off the roof
of the cathedral. Nowadays the taller tower is home to one
of Krakws most enduring traditions. The bugle call played
on the turn of every hour apparently takes its origins from an
event in 1241. Having spotted invading Tartar forces on the
horizon, a lone fireman started playing his trumpet to alert the
habitants of Krakw. He was shot with an arrow in his neck,
abruptly cutting off the tune mid-melody, but the town was
roused from its sleep and defended itself. In honour of this
event, seven local firemen now have task of tooting the tune
every hour. The first written mention of the tradition dates
back to 1392, though a local magazine recently claimed the
whole custom was invented by an American in 1929. QOpen
11:30 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 15 minutes
before closing. Admission 10/5z.
AB City Tour ul. Kociuszki 49, tel. (+48) 12 427
27 57, www.abcitytour.pl. Their large fleet of electronic
golf-carts (heated in winter!) zips tired-footed tourists around
all the sights in town, while informational audio recordings
explain Krakws history in English, Polish, Spanish, German,
French, Italian, Norwegian, Hungarian, Japanese, Dutch, Rus-
sian, Ukrainian and Portuguese. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Y
Cracow City Tours D-1, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48) 12
421 13 33, www.cracowcitytours.pl. The best value trip
to Auschwitz on offer. Also at ul. Floriaska 44 (D-2, 12 421
13 27, Open 08-00 - 20:00). QOpen 07:45 - 20:00. Y
Cracow Tours B-2, ul. Krupnicza 3, tel. (+48) 12
430 07 26, www.cracowtours.pl. Variety of tour pack-
ages including city centre tours, Auschwitz, the salt mines
and Zakopane. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
DiscoverCracow.eu C- 3, Rynek Gwny 30,
tel. (+48) 12 346 38 99, www.discovercracow.
eu. This helpful tourist office offers guided tours of
Krakw (Wawel, Rynek Underground and more) and the
Maopolska region. Also at ul. Grodzka 28-30 (C-4, open
09:00 - 20:00) and ul. w. Jana 2 (C-3, open 09:00 -
20:00). QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
The Tourist Guide Association (Stowarzysze-
nie Przewodnikw Turystycznych - Krakw),
tel. (+48) 725 72 52 00, www.guide-cracow.pl.
These well-connected linguists can help you find and
book tours of Krakw in English, Czech, French, Spanish,
Portuguese, Italian, Dutch, Swedish, German, Polish,
Russian, Slovak, Serbian and Croatian.
Guided Tours Churches
Theres hardly a resident of
Krakw who doesnt have a
church for a neighbour. While
the number of churches, ca-
thedrals and monasteries in
the ci ty is al most endl ess,
weve used a bit of discrimi-
nation in only listing the most
remarkable and unavoidable
of the bunch here. All of these
places of worship are located in the Old Town and still active
to varying degrees, so please be respectful and try not to
visit during services. Kazimierz, Podgrze and Nowa Huta
churches are listed in their respective sections.
Holy Trinity Basilica (Bazylika w. Trjcy) C-4, ul.
Stolarska 12, tel. (+48) 12 423 16 13, www.krakow.
dominikanie.pl. Built in 1250 by Dominican friars from
Bologna, the church lost many of its treasures when it was
gutted by fire back in 1850. Rebuilt in 1872 this huge struc-
ture is now an important evangelical centre. The image of
Our Lady of the Rosary, found inside the Rosary chapel, is
said to have healing powers. Q Open 09:30 - 11:30, 13:30
- 16:30; closed to tourists on Sun.
SS Peter & Pauls Church (Koci w. Piotra
i Pawa) C-4, ul. Grodzka 52a, tel. (+48) 12 350 63
65, www.apostolowie.pl. Krakws premier Jesuit Church
was built in the early 1600s. The twelve disciples standing
on the gates outside are its most striking feature, although
the interior has been extensively renovated and the airy,
austere grandeur of this late Renaissance building is now
evident. Possessors of a 46.5m Foucault Pendulum - a device
invented by French physicist Leon Foucault in 1851 which
proves the earths rotation, shows demonstrating its use
generally occur on Thursdays at 10:00, 11:00 and 12:00,
but check their website to be sure. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00,
Sun 13:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon.
St. Adalberts (Koci w. Wojciecha) C- 3,
Rynek Gwny, tel. (+48) 12 422 83 52, www.kosciol-
wojciecha.pl. Krakws oldest church sits not unlike a lost
orphan at the southeast corner of the Cloth Hall, a mad mix
of pre-Roman, Roman, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque
architecture, all crammed together in a higgledy-piggledy
jumble of religious styles. The earliest parts of the building
date from at least the 11th century, pre-dating the Rynek and
explaining its seemingly random position within it. St. Adal-
bert had his own cult following at the time, which explains how
it managed to survive. A look inside is well worth it, not least
because the floor sits some two metres below the surface of
the main square. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:30 - 18:00.
St. Francis Basilica (Bazylika w. Franciszka)
C- 4, Pl. Wszystkich witych 5, tel. (+48) 12 422
53 76, www.franciszkanska.pl. Our favourite church in
Krakw thanks to the gorgeous interior Art Nouveau murals
by native son Stanisaw Wyspiaski, which nicely balance the
organic and geometric with unique floral patterns that make
this the most colourful place of worship in the city. Wyspiaski
also made the eight stained-glass windows around 1895,
including the controversial and iconic centrepiece, God the
Father in the Act of Creation. Dating back to the 13th century,
St. Francis Basilica was the first brick building in the city and
is well worth popping in, even for those who could care less
for looking at another church. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sun
13:00 - 15:00. Every 2nd Sunday of the month open 13:30
- 14:30 only. No visiting during mass, please.
Barbican D-2, ul. Basz-

towa, tel. (+48) 12 619
23 20, www.mhk.pl. The
showpi ece of t he ci t ys
medi eval defences, t he
Barbi can was buil t at the
end of the 15th century to
protect Krakws main en-
trance and was connected
to the Floriaska Gate via
a drawbridge over the moat that surrounded it. 24.4
metres i n diameter wi th wall s 3 metres thi ck this
masterpiece of medieval military engineering proved
impenetrable and today stands as one of the onl y
surviving structures of its kind in Europe; certainly the
most well-preserved. Built in Gothic style, the Krakw
Barbican is topped by seven turrets and includes 130
defensive slots used by archers and ri flemen. Today
the Barbican is used for various special events (me-
dieval pageants, jousting contests) and can be visited
as an outdoor museum between the months of
April and October, where youll learn the history of
Krakws defensive walls. As the bastion is almost
always empty, it makes a fantastic place for a game
of tag or an outpost for spying on passersby, however
beware the gruesome sight of pigeons who have in-
advertently lynched themselves in the netting meant
to keep them out of the turrets. We guarantee youll
see at least three. Q Open from April 5 10:30 - 18:00.
Admission 7/5z, family ticket 14z. Ticket is valid for 7 days
and includes admission to the nearby City Defensive Walls.
Barbican
Sowacki Theatre
(Teatr im. Juliusza
S o wa c k i e g o )
D-2, Pl. w. Ducha
1, t el . (+48) 12
424 45 25, www.
slowacki.krakow.pl.
Regarded today as an
archi tectural master-
pi ece, the S owacki
Theatre came under
fierce criticism when construction began due to the
demolition of the medieval Church of the Holy Ghost
to make room for it - an act that drew the ire of local
cultural bigwigs like Jan Matejko. Completed in 1893,
Jan Zawiejski modeled his design for the theatre on the
Paris Opera and the structure is distinguished for its
elaborate facade which is decorated with allegorical
figures. Sadly, the interior is usually off limits to the
publi c unl ess there is a production on; a pl eading
look is usually enough to get past this obstacle. The
foyer and marble staircase are supreme examples of
fin-de-siecle thinking, and the stage curtain is itsel f
worth the James Bond deviousness needed to sneak
in. Designed by Henryk Siemiradzki it features beauti-
ful paintings representing drama, comedy, music and
dance. Polands first cinema show was held here in
1896. Q Open depending on repertoire. Guided tours
can be arranged by phone for 130z (up to 40 people),
but are only available in Polish at this time.
Sowacki Theatre
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Monuments
Adam Mickiewicz C-3, Rynek Gwny. One of the
most important statues in Poland, the large likeness of
the romantic poet and national hero Adam Mickiewicz
(1798-1855) was originally unveiled in 1898 to celebrate
the centenary of the great mans birth, and, like so many
other symbols of national pride was destroyed by the oc-
cupying Germans during WWII. The statue that stands in
the Rynek today is a 1955 copy of Teodor Rygiers original,
and is a popular and easily recognisable meeting place.
Lithuanian-born Mickiewicz (whos most famous work, Pan
Tadeusz begins with the words Lithuania, my country!
and who is known and loved by the Lithuanians as Adomas
Mickeviius) never visited Krakw until 35 years after his
death. His body lies at rest in the Cathedral crypts just
down the road at Wawel.
Eros Bendato (Eros Bound) B-3, Rynek Gwny.
Among Krakws most wel l -known l andmarks, thi s
sculpture in the western corner of the market square is
a popular meeting place and at some point serves as
a photographic backdrop for almost every tourist who
visits the city. Affectionately referred to as The Head,
the bronze body parts of fi cial ti tl e i s Eros Bendato
(Eros Bound) and is the work of Polish artist Igor Mitoraj.
A student of Tadeusz Kantors at the Krakw School of
Art, an exhibition of 14 of Mitorajs monumental works
dressed the Rynek from Oct 17, 2003 to Jan 25, 2004,
during which the artist gi fted this work to the city, sparking
controversy over what to do with it. Initially, the sculpture
was designated for Plac Kolejowy (E-2), but the artist was
indignant about having his work in front of a commercial
building (Galeria Krakowska). Despite protest from his-
torians and many locals, the sculpture eventually found
its current place near the Town Hall Tower, where it has
become an unexpected tourist attracti on. In summer,
children can be seen crawling all over the hollow edi fice,
sticking their heads and limbs through the eyeholes for
camera-snapping parents, though winter too often finds
it profaned with trash and foul-smelling liquids. Fans of
Mitorajs work will find another of his large sculptures -
titled Luci di Nara - adorning the charming courtyard of
Collegium Luridicum (C-4, ul. Grodzka 53).
Grunwal d Monument
(Pomnik Grunwaldu) D-1,
Pl. Matejki. The Battl e of
Grunwal d, fought between
the j oi nt armi es of Pol and
and Li thuani a agai nst the
Teutonic Knights on July 15,
1410, i s consi dered to be
one of the greatest battles
ever to take place in medieval
Europe. A defining moment in Polish history, the battle was
immortalised in Krakw with the unveiling of this weighty
monument in front of an estimated 160,000 people on the
500th anniversary of the event in 1910. Antoni Wiwulskis
(1877-1919) original masterpiece was, not surprisingly,
destroyed by the occupying Nazis during WWII and the copy
that now stands in its place dates from 1976, having been
faithfully reproduced using sketches and models of the origi-
nal. At the top on his horse is the King of Poland Wadysaw
Jagieo, his sword pointing downwards in his right hand.
At the front is his cousin the Lithuanian prince Vytautas
(Vitold), who is flanked on either side by victorious soldiers
from the joint army. The dead man at the front is Urlich von
Jungingen, the Teutonic Orders Grand Master, who lost his
life during the battle.
fot. Iwona Grabska
Mai n Mar ket Squar e
(Rynek) C-3. Krakws main
market square (Rynek) serves
as the citys gravitational centre,
and is the natural start and fin-
ish point for any tour of the city.
Originally designed in 1257 - the
year Krakw was awarded i ts
charter - the gridlike layout of the
Old Town and its central square
has changed little in the years that have followed. Mea-
suring 200 metres square, the Rynek ranks as one of the
largest medieval squares in Europe, and is surrounded
by elegant townhouses, all with their own unique names,
histories and curiosities. Through the centuries it was in
Krakws Rynek that homage to the king was sworn and
public executions held. Most famously it was here that
Tadeusz Kociuszko roused the locals to revolt against
foreign rule in 1794. The Rynek has always been the
natural stage for public celebrations, with everything from
parades of sausage dogs to Christmas crib competitions
taking place. Not all the events have had been happy
affairs however, and back in the 17th century King Jan
Sobieski III was privy to a firework display which ended
in bloodshed when some of the explosives were acciden-
tally fired into the crowd. Some mistake. More recently
the market square was subjected to a Nazi rally under
German occupation which was attended by Der Fhrer
himself and celebrated the squares name change from
Rynek Gwny to Adolf Hitler Platz. Fortunately the moni-
ker didnt last long and today the Rynek occupies itself by
hosting the yearly Christmas and Easter markets, as well
as numerous festivals and outdoor concerts.
Taking centre stage in the Rynek is the Cloth Hall
(Sukiennice). Built in the 14th century this huge hall was
effectively the first shopping mall in the world. To this
day it is still crammed with hawkers and stalls selling
amber, lace, woodwork and assorted tourist tat. In 2010
a 4,000m2, hi-tech museum tracing its history, and that
of the entire city, opened underneath the Cloth Hall, called
Rynek Underground (see our box). The second floor
hosts the underrated 19th Century Polish Art Gallery.
Directly next to the Sukiennice stands Polands most
eminent scribe: Adam Mickiewicz. Ironically, the bard
never visited the city until after his death when his
remains were transferred to the Wawel Cathedral crypt,
but this hasnt stopped the statue from becoming one of
Krakws best loved monuments. Across from Mickiewicz
looms the magnificent St. Marys Basilica, its crowning
glory being Veit Stoss altarpiece. The area surrounding
the Basilica was formerly a cemetery, and the bodies
of hundreds of Cracovians still lie beneath the cobbles.
Ghoulish tourists will also appreciate the set of metal
neck restraints displayed on the side door of St Marys,
formerly used to punish philandering women.
On the squares other side is the 70 metre Town Hall
Tower, the only element of the 14th century Town Hall
remaining after many fires, renovations and uncaring
demolitions. Open from April to November only, visi-
tors can ascend up to the 3rd floor through Gothic vaulted
rooms which contain, amongst other things, 1960s
photographs of Krakw and look out on the square below
from the viewing point.
Main Market Square
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Museums
Krakw is host to a plethora of museums. Opening hours
and exhibitions that are continually closing for restoration
can strike visitors as will fully eccentric, until one stops
to consider how much patience and care - and how little
capital - is invested to maintain such high standards. It is
for this reason that philanthropic visitors may even see fit
to throw an extra zoty into the collection box. Alternatively,
cheapskates and paupers should note that all branches of
the National Museum are free on Sundays. The museums
listed here are in the Old Town, while Kazimierz and Podgrze
museums are listed in their respective sections of the guide.
19th Century Polish Art Gallery C-3, Cloth Hall,
Rynek Gwny 3, tel. (+48) 12 424 46 03, www.
muzeum.krakow.pl. Open again after a lengthy closure, this
magnificent and historic exhibition inside the Cloth Hall covers
Polish art from in and around the 19th century, and its major
trends of portraiture and epic historical painting. Comprising
four rooms, the collection is refreshingly small, giving proper
attention to each piece, some of which are enormous and
all of which are gorgeously framed. Of particular interest
for their status as national treasures are the Italian-born,
Polish-resident Marceli Bacciarellis Portrait of Stanisaw
August Poniatowski in Coronation Dress from around 1790
and, a century on, Wadysaw Podkowiskis famous Frenzy
from 1894. Other painters of note on display whose works
shouldnt be missed include Jan Matejko, Jacek Malczewski,
Jzef Chemoski and Stanisaw Witkiewicz. One of the perks
of a visit is access to the magnificent balcony overlooking the
market square. Recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 12/6z, family ticket 24z, audiogu-
ide 5z. Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Archaeology Museum (Muzeum Archeologic-
zne) B- 4, ul. Poselska 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 71 00,
www.ma.krakow.pl. Fresh from a recent boost of cash,
Krakws one-time lacklustre Archaeology Museum has been
transformed into something actually worth going to have a
look at. In addition to the famous Zbruch Idol (see our box),
regional Stone Age artefacts and a brilliant room dedicated
to local clothing from 70,000 BC to the 14th century, the
museum houses a permanent collection of artefacts from
ancient Egypt including some beautiful shrouds, a number
of intricately decorated sarcophagi and some mummified
cats. The latter exhibition is best enjoyed with the aid of an
audio guide, available for an extra charge. QOpen 09:00 -
15:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sat. Admission 7/5z, Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Audioguide 5z. Y
Archdiocesan Museum of Cardinal Karol Wojtya
(Muzeum Archidiecezjalne Kardynaa Karola
Wojtyy) C-5, ul. Kanonicza 19-21, tel. (+48) 12 421
89 63, www.muzeumkra.diecezja.pl. John Paul II lived
here - twice. Once as Karol Wojtya, the young priest with
a penchant for skiing (his Head skis are on show) and later
as a bishop, in grander, adjacent rooms. The Archdiocesan
doubles as a small but well-presented showcase of beauti-
ful sacral art, some dating back to the 13th century. Among
the items on display, you will find presents to His Holiness
from heads-of-state. All very nice, but the exhibition will only
hold the attention of true papal enthusiasts, and visitors
can expect to be tailed by over-zealous curators. Personal
guided tours available or for groups up to 25 people in
French, English and Polish. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/3z, family ticket
12z. Guided tours 60z.
You can find us on the Market Square since 1992
Da Pietro
Krakws most popular Italian restaurant for the last 20 years
Rynek Gwny 17, Krakw - tel. 12 422 32 79 - www.dapietro.pl - www.facebook.com/DaPietroKrakow
Cloth Hall (Suki -
ennice) C-3, Rynek
Gwny 1/3, www.
muzeum.krakow.pl.
The iconic glory-piece at
the centre of Krakws
market square, there
is proof that a struc-
ture of some sort has
existed on the site of the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) since
the mid-13th century. Originally resembling two rows of
stone trading stalls with a thoroughfare running between
them, a roof was erected over them around 1300 before
King Kazimierz the Great approved the construction of
a purpose-built trading hall in the mid-14th century. As
a result, Krakws importance as an east-west trading
post increased; though the name Sukiennice refers
specifically to the trade of textiles and fabrics, Krakws
Cloth Hall saw an array of commodities bought and sold in
its merchant stalls including wax, spices, leather and silk,
as well as lead and salt from the nearby Wieliczka mines.
After a fire destroyed the building in the mid-16th cen-
tury, the Sukiennice underwent a Renaissance facelift
overseen by Jan Maria Padovano (1493-1574) featuring
brilliantly deformed gargoyles by the Italian-Polish sculp-
tor Santi Gucci on the faade. At this time the Cloth Hall
was probably the most magni ficent building in all of
Krakw. By the mid-1870s, however, Poland had been
partitioned for nearly a century and the Cloth Hall was in
a rather decrepit state. Between 1875-79, while the city
was part of Austro-Hungarian-controlled Galicia, many
of the outbuildings were torn down and the neo-Gothic
colonnades and outside arcades were added by Tomasz
Pryliski, a student of Jan Matejko. The interior was
converted into a series of wooden stalls and on October
7th, 1879 the Krakw City Council voted to give half of
the upper floor of the Cloth Hall over to the creation of
the first Polish National Museum. It quickly became the
focal point for a huge celebration of Polish patriotism
attracting Poles from all three partitions as well as those
from self-imposed exiles abroad.
The 20th century saw ongoing development of the build-
ing with the most significant work being carried out in
the late 1950s when much of the 19th century interior
was replaced. By the start of the 21st century, however,
the building, particularly the display areas inside, was in
poor condition and unprepared for the demands of a 21st
century museum or shopping area. Beginning in August
2006 and lasting over 4 years, the building was given a
complete re-modelling with lifts, air-conditioning and new
natural and artificial lighting installed. Where once were
sloped attics, you will now find lovely terraces overlook-
ing the square below and St. Marys Basilica opposite.
To take advantage of them and the adjacent Cafe Sza
(see Cafes), visit the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery
(see Museums, and keep in mind you dont need to pay
admission to visit the cafe). Having visited the Art Gallery
or the Rynek Underground museum take a break by
visiting the Noworolski Cafe for coffee (see Cafes) and
round it off by picking up a souvenir in the arcade within
the Cloth Hall, where youll find all sorts of handicrafts,
amber and other local products at surprisingly reason-
able prices. And youll have the experience of shopping in
what is basically a 700-year old shopping mall.
The Cloth Hall
Bishop Erazm Cioek Palace (Paac Biskupa
Erazma Cioka) C-5, ul. Kanonicza 17, tel. (+48)
12 424 93 70, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. This earl y
14th century palace hol ds two permanent exhi bi tions of
the National Museum, Art of Ol d Poland from the 12th
to 18th Centuri es and Orthodox Art of the Ol d Polish
Republ i c. As you coul d have guessed, both exhi bi ts
consi st enti rel y of sacral art from before the i dea of
art was appli ed to non-reli gious subj ect matter (how
many centuri es di d that take?). Most of i t came directl y
out of Krakws own churches or others in the region,
and most of i t is admi ttedl y superb, i f thats your thing.
I f i ts not, i ts a bi t of a snoozefest. The hi ghl i ght i s
wi thout doubt the strange 16th century Christ Ri ding a
Donkey, a near li fe-size wooden sculpture of everyones
favouri te model doi ng j ust that wi th vacant eyes and
the mul e atop a wagon. Eeril y beauti ful. Also of note is
the wooden Madonna from Krul owa whi ch dates from
around 1400. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Cl osed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before cl osing.
Admission 12/6z, famil y ti cket 24z, audioguide 5z. Sun
free for permanent exhi bi tions.
City Defensive Walls (Mury Obronne) D-2, ul.
Pijarska, tel. (+48) 12 619 23 20, www.mhk.pl.
This small museum is in turns uninformati ve and overl y
informati ve, but basi call y i t gi ves you a chance to climb
around whats l eft of Krakws 13th century defensi ve
walls. Pass a few sill y mannequi ns i n medi eval dress
en route to a film wi th fantasti c virtual recreations of
ancient Krakw (in Polish onl y), before walking the length
of wall between two towers and getting a description of
the other 40-odd towers demolished by the Austrians
in the 18th century. Enj oy vi ews and great photo oppor-
tuni ti es over Fl oriaska street, but generall y a visi t to
the Barbi can (see Ol d Town Places of Interest) is more
interesting and informati ve. Ti ckets are vali d for 7 days
and include entry to the Barbi can as well. Q Open from
April 5 10:30 - 18:00. Admission 7/5z, famil y ticket 14z.
Ti cket is vali d for 7 days and includes admission to the
nearby Barbi can.
Collegium Maius (Jagiellonian University Mu-
seum) B-3, ul. Jagielloska 15, tel. (+48) 12 663 13
07, www.maius.uj.edu.pl. Jagiellonian University is the
third oldest university in Europe, founded by King Kazimierz
the Great in 1364. Its picturesque courtyard ranks as one of
the most beautiful in the city. An amiable English-speaking
guide will take you on a 45-minute tour of the Treasury, As-
sembly Hall, Library and Common Room. Along the way, you
will see the oldest surviving globe to depict the Americas.
It was in 1492 that astronomer Nicolas Copernicus began
his studies at the Jagiellonian, developing his own theories
about which way the world spins. You need to call or visit in
advance to book a place on the English-language tour, which
takes place Monday through Friday at 13:00. More basic
English-language tours (omitting the gallery and scientific
instruments exhibit) begin about every 20 minutes through-
out the day, though were informed its wise to arrange these
beforehand as well.
Recently a new interactive exhibit about mathematics titled
Everything...is a number (Wszystko...jest liczb) has
opened, but a separate ticket and separate hours apply:
09:00 - 14:00; closed Sun. Last entrance 1 hour before
closing. Admission 7/5z. Q Open 10:00 - 15:00, Tue 10:00 -
16:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance 40 minutes before closing.
Admission 12/6z for permanent exhibit, 16/12z for entire
museum (including gallery and scientific instruments) or tour.
Admission free on Tuesdays between 15:00 and 18:00 for
a self-guided tour.
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Gallery of Ancient Art (Arsena - Galeria Sztuki
Staroytnej) C-2, ul. Pijarska 8, tel. (+48) 12 422
55 66, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. This small branch of
the National Museum is also a satellite of the Czartoryski
Museum across the street, and brings together three unique
collections of ancient art amassed abroad during the 19th
and 20th centuries by the Czartoryski family, the Potocki
family of Krzeszowice and the Krakw National Museum. On
display are artefacts primarily from ancient Egypt, Greece
and Rome dating from between 3000 BC to the 7th century
AD, with highlights including marble sculptures, Egyptian
sarcophagi and animal mummies. Its amazing that these
items found their way to Krakw and they provide an interest-
ing look at the material culture of the ancient world, but are
hardly required viewing for those without a special interest
in antiquity. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission
8/4z, familly ticket 16z. Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Hipolit House (Kamienica Hipolitw) C- 3, Pl.
Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 42 19, www.mhk.pl. The
Hipolits were a merchant family who lived in this fine build-
ing around the end of the 16th and beginning of the 17th
centuries, although the building dates back considerably
further than that. The inside has been transformed into a
series of recreations of typical Polish bourgeois living spaces
from the 17th to early 20th century, and is interesting for the
insights it gives into how the other half lived as well as being
a showcase for some truly remarkable furniture and antiques.
Worth a visit. Q Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Tue. Last
entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/5z, family
ticket 14z. Wed free.
History of Photography Museum (Muzeum Historii
Fotografii im. Walerego Rzewuskiego) H-1, ul. Jz-
efitw 16, tel. (+48) 12 634 59 32, www.mhf.krakow.
pl. Allegedly Polands only museum dedicated exclusively to
photography, this modest museum tracks the development
of the art form over several cupboard-size rooms, including
changing photographic exhibitions, an old darkroom, heaps
of ancient cameras and a nice collection of historical images
of Krakw. Theres plenty here to fascinate shutterbugs, but
if your primary camera is your cellphone, you may not deem
it worth the journey. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00
- 15:30. Closed Mon, Tue, except for groups (3 person mini-
mum) who arrange at least 7 days in advance. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/5z, Sun free. Y
Home Ar my Museum
(Muzeum Armii Krajowej)
J-1, ul. Wita Stwosza 12,
tel. (+48) 12 410 07 70,
www.muzeum- ak.krakow.
pl. This beauti full y restored
3-floor red-brick railway building
has been adapted (including a
gorgeous glass atrium) to house the Home Army Museum -
documenting the size, organisation and efforts of Polands
underground military resistance from the time of the failed
September campaign of 1939 to the underground armed
forces official disbanding in 1945. The Home Armys continu-
ing fight for freedom within the countrys two occupied zones
(Nazi and Soviet) is one of World War IIs less acknowledged
aspects and this fantastic museum goes to great length to
demonstrate that Polands government, military and civilian
population never surrendered in the fight for freedom. After
a decade of collecting historical documents, artefacts and
information from Home Army veterans, this museum opened
to the public in September 2012 and is a must-visit for any-
one interested in WWII history. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 13/7z. Sun permanent exhibit free. Y
ul. Floriaska C-2. Marking the
edge of the Old Town is Floriaska
Gate. Completed in 1307 the gate-
way is one of the few surviving parts
of the ancient defences that once
circled the Old Town. Thirty-three
metres tall, and topped with a Ba-
roque roof that was added in 1657,
the gate marks the main entrance
into the old city, and was the original
starting point for what was dubbed
the Royal Road. It was through this
gate that visiting kings, queens
and nobility would enter the city on
their way to Wawel. A painstaking
programme of renovation has left
the gate looking sparkling new, and the immediate environs
play home to dozens of open-air displays by aspiring local
artists. Once considered Krakws principal commerical
street Floriaska comes predictably steeped in history.
Aside from signs advertising kebabs, dance clubs and
currency exchange, many of the townhouses have facades
featuring age-old murals and inscriptions. Keep your eyes
peeled for House of the Negro (Floriaska 1) and House of
the Squirrel (no. 15). Also of note, the Jan Matejko House
(no. 41) and Pharmacy Museum (no. 25, see Museums
for both), and the hotel and restaurant Pod R (no. 14).
Reputed to be the oldest hotel in Krakw, the Latin inscrip-
tion above Pod Ras Renaissance doorway reads May
this building stand until an ant drinks the ocean, and
a tortoise circles the earth.
The Floriaska Gate
Floriaska Gate
special B
Rynek Underground (Podziemia Rynku) C-3,
Rynek Gwny 1, tel. (+48) 12 426 50 60, www.
podziemiarynku.com. Opened in a blaze of public-
ity in September 2010, this hi-tech and highly popular
museum takes visitors four metres under the surface
of the market square to explore the recently excavated
medieval merchant stalls that predate todays Cloth Hall,
and to experience the citys entire history - from its first
settlers right up to the death of Pope John Paul II - over
the course of some 6,000 metres of multimedia exhibits.
Because of the museums popularity, and the fact that
it is limited to only 300 people at a time, timed tickets
should be bought in advance of when you want to visit
to avoid long queues or the disappointment of no ticket
availability. This can be done either online or from the
information office confusingly located on the opposite
side of the Cloth Hall from the museum entrance. The
actual museum entrance is located on the side opposite
St. Marys Basilica, of course, and once youve negotiated
the scrum of getting inside your experience begins with a
short film projected on a wall of smoke, before following
the trail of truly remarkable exhibits displayed in what
is essentially an archaeological site. Relying heavily on
touch-screens and holograms, highlights include a fas-
cinating look into life before Krakw received its charter
and the market square was laid out, displays on trade
and transport in the city, and the remains of an 11th-
century cemetery. Those more comfortable in traditional
museums will be pleased to know there are still plenty
of artefacts among the virtual exhibits, including the
usual array of coins, clothing and other earthly remains.
Dont miss the series of short, subtitled documentaries
covering different ages of Krakows history to your right
before you reach the end of the underground circuit and
its inevitable caf and souvenir shops. In addition to
the multi-lingual displays, audio guides are available in
English, German, French, Russian, Italian and Spanish.
Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Tue 10:00 -
16:00. Every first Mon of the month open 10:00 - 14:00,
every first Tue closed. Last entrance 75 minutes before
closing. Admission 17/14z, audioguide 5z (ID must be
left in order to take an audioguide). Tue free.
Rynek Underground
Stanisaw Kosin
Stanisaw Kosin
Jan Matejko House (Dom Jana Matejki) D-3, ul.
Floriaska 41, tel. (+48) 12 422 59 26, www.muzeum.
krakow.pl. Jan Matejko was Polands greatest historical
painter whose work and life is honoured in the house where
he was born, lived and would eventually die in the 1890s. As
well as some witty imaginings of Krakw medieval life, stud-
ies for gargoyles and collections of Renaissance furniture
and antique guns and ammo, the minutiae of Matejkos life
is preserved, right down to his eyeglasses in this recently
renovated museum. A fascinating tribute to a genuine Pol-
ish master, and a man of many parts. Those with a special
interest in Matejko may want to visit his workshop and manor
house in Nowa Huta (see Nowa Huta Museums), and the 19th
Century Polish Art Gallery where many of his greatest works
are displayed. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 8/4z, family ticket 16z, audioguide 5z. Sun free
for permanent exhibitions. Y
Jzef Mehoffer House (Dom Jzefa Mehoffera)
A-2, ul. Krupnicza 26, tel. (+48) 12 370 81 80, www.
muzeum.krakow.pl. Mehoffer was one of the turn of the
19th centurys artistic elite, a skilled stained-glass artist
collaborating with Wyspiaski on the interiors of numerous
Krakw churches and important buildings. This, his house,
was where the artists of the Moda Polska (Young Poland)
movement often met and is a delight to visit, filled with
elegant furnishings, Art Deco to impressionist-era art and
many sketches, designs and finished stained glass pieces
that attest to his important artistic legacy. In warmer months
you wont find a more magical place to relax and read a
book than the hidden garden behind the house, presided
over by the old-fashioned Cafe Waka - one of the citys
best-kept secrets. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Admission 8/4z, family ticket 16z. Sun free for permanent
exhibitions. Y
Manggha B-6, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267
27 03, www.manggha.pl. The Museum of Japanese Art &
Technology houses the National Museums Japanese arte-
facts, consisting primarily of local legend Feliks Jasieskis
fabulous 6,500-piece collection, featuring battlesuits, an-
tiques, porcelain, incredibly beautiful watercolour paintings
and comical woodprints. The modern building was created
by legendary Polish film director Andrzej Wajda, a native of
Krakw who saw the private collection of Feliks Jasieski
exhibited during WWII. Upon winning the Kyoto city prize in
1987, Wajda donated the $340,000 grant for the construc-
tion of the museum. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 15/10z, family ticket 25z, group ticket 60z (up
to 30people), Tue free. Guided tours 100z.
National Museum, Main Building (Gmach Gwny
Muzeum Narodowego w Krakowie) H-3, Al. 3 Maja
1, tel. (+48) 12 295 55 00, www.muzeum.krakow.pl.
Far from being the shoeless peasants many cynical histo-
rians would have us believe, previous generations of Poles
have in actual fact excelled in the arts. The superb National
Museum of Art in Krakw showcases many such examples
of their work. As well as a number of world-class temporary
shows, the museum also houses fine collections of Polish
applied arts and weaponry and gives its entire top floor over
to the permanent 20th-century Polish Art exhibition - a truly
awesome collection showcasing the works of such visionar-
ies as Kantor, Wyspiaski and Witkacy that any gallery would
be more than proud of owning. The museum also houses a
small shop and TriBeCa caf. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 10/5z, family ticket 19z, audioguide 5z.
Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Y
Pharmacy Museum (Muzeum Farmacji) C-2,
ul. Floriaska 25, tel. (+48) 12 421 92 79, www.
muzeumfarmacji.pl. Located inside a wonderful 15th-
century building, Krakws brilliant Pharmacy Museum is
laid out on several floors and includes all manner of exhibits
from full-scale reproductions of ancient apothecary shops
to some beastly snakes in jars and, on the top floor, a really
good display of traditional herbal medicines. Also of inter-
est is the small exhibit dedicated to the extraordinary and
brave Pole, Tadeusz Pankiewicz. Q Open 10:00 - 14:30,
Tue 12:00 - 18:30. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes
before closing. Admission 9/6z.
The Szoayski House (Ka-
mienica Szoayskich) B-2,
Pl. Szczepaski 9, tel. (+48)
12 292 81 83, www.muze-
um.krakow.pl. Formerl y the
citys Wyspiaski Museum, this
branch of the National Museum
has been re- chri stened the
Szoayski House, and presents
a new exhibition entitled For-
ever Young! Poland and its art
around 1900. Focussing on Polands secessionist Moda
Polska movement and Krakws role as its nexus, visitors will
still see plenty of Krakws golden boy Stanisaw Wyspiaski
- including some wonderful pastel sketches and his most
iconic self-portrait - as well as satirical works associated with
the legendary Green Balloon Cabaret and other noteworthy
Polish Art Nouveau paintings. A new permanent exhibit on
the ground floor honours Krakws Grand Dame of poetry
Wisawa Szymborska by exhibiting articles collected from
89
88
OLD TOWN
WAWEL
her apartment after her passing in 2012. Of definite interest
to Wyspiaski lovers and general fans of the period, it may
not be required visiting, but high marks for presentation, a
manageable visitation time of one hour and a central location
just off the market square make this an easy and enjoyable
item to cross off your sightseeing checklist. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing. Admission 9/5z, family ticket 18z.
Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Y
Town Hall Tower (Wiea
Ratusza) C-3, Rynek Gwny
1, tel. (+48) 12 619 23 18,
www.mhk.pl. The onl y el e-
ment of the 14th century Town
Hall remaining after many fires,
renovati ons and uncari ng de-
mol i t i ons, i s t hi s 70m- hi gh
tower, proudl y standi ng next
to the Cloth Hall. Ascend your
way through the Gothic vaulted
rooms to the observation deck
for great vi ews of the Rynek,
and on your way take a look at the photography exhibition
of Krakw during the 1960s. Outside the tower you will
also find a metal model of the old Town Hall as it looked
in the 18th century and which is part of a series made
speciall y by the l ocal authori ti es to all ow the blind to
visualise the city. Q Open from April 12 10:30 - 18:00.
Admission 7/5z, family ticket 14z. Y
Ulica Pomorska (Former Gestapo Cells) H-1, ul.
Pomorska 2, tel. (+48) 12 633 14 14, www.mhk.pl.
People of Krakow in Times of Terror 1939-1945-1956 is
an exhibit that endeavours to recount the misery and cruelty
of foreign domination and totalitarian injustice in Krakw.
Sponsored by the History Museum, the exhibit can be found
alongside the corollary Former Gestapo Cells which are free
of charge and impressive in their own right. Youll find the
exhibits just across from Plac Inwalidw, ironically housed
in a building which was originally the headquarters for an
organization that celebrated Polish nationalism and sought
to recover territories outside of Poland with native Polish
populations. Both exhibits are accessed through the interior
courtyard behind a tunnel decorated with chilling black and
white mug shots of former prisoners held here during Nazi
occupation. In what may be more than ironic coincidence, the
hostel situated just above the exhibits is entitled Freedom.
Inside is a meticulously documented record of the era of
Nazi and Communist tyranny in the city, replete with audio
recreations of interrogations and mass executions. There is a
small model of an interrogation room and a plethora of short
bios and histories of the most notorious arrests, tortures,
imprisonments and executions, culminating with the last
Communist show trials in the mid-1950s. Quotations from
victims are juxtaposed poignantly with propaganda posters
from both tyrannies.
The Former Gestapo Cells are literally the prison cells that
housed mostly political prisoners during that era. Many writ-
ings and carved inscriptions are still visible on the walls and
even the illegible ones have been transcribed and enlarged
giving a grim first-hand account of lives (and deaths) of
political prisoners in these very rooms. There are no fairy-
tale endings here, so come prepared for an excellent but
sobering and bluntly tragic display of the history through
which Krakw has suffered. It is absolutely worth a visit and
is only about a 15-minute walk up Karmelicka Street from
the Planty. Q Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission
7/5z, familty ticket 14z, Tue free. Admission to Former
Gestapo Cells is free.
The glorious ensemble that is Wawel, perched on top of the
hill of the same name immediately south of the Old Town
(B-5), is by far the most important collection of buildings in
Poland. A symbol of national pride, hope, self-rule and not
least of all fierce patriotism, Wawel offers a uniquely Polish
version of the British Buckingham Palace and Westminster
Abbey rolled into one. A gorgeous assortment of predomi-
nantly Romanesque, Renaissance and Gothic architecture
dating from around the 14th century onwards, Wawel is the
crown jewel of Krakws architectural treasures and required
visiting for Poles and foreigners alike.
Even for those who know or care little about the countrys
past, Polands ancient seat of royalty contains a vast wealth
of treasures inside its heavily fortified walls that cant fail to
inspire. Made up of the Castle and the Cathedral, of which
the former contains most, but by no means all of the exhibi-
tions, Wawels must-see highlights include the Cathedrals
mind-boggling interior, a tantalising glimpse of Polands very
own crown jewels inside the Crown Treasury and, weather
permi tting, a leisurel y stroll around i ts courtyards and
gardens. After the April 2010 Smolensk disaster, Wawels
Royal Crypts became the final resting place of President
Lech Kaczyski and his wife Maria; their tombs are open to
the public free of charge. A full tour of Wawel, which is hard
work but comes with its own rewards, can take an entire day.
Castle
Castle (Zamek Krlewski) B-5, Wawel Hill, tel.
(+48) 22 422 51 55 ext.219, www.wawel.krakow.
pl. Wawels prominence as a centre of political power
predates the building of the first Cathedral on the site in
1000AD. Evidence shows that Wawel Hill was being used as
a forti fied castle before Polands first ruler, Mieszko I (circa
962-992) chose Wawel as one of his official residences.
The first Polish king crowned in Wawel Cathedral was the
teenage Wadysaw the Short (1306-1333) on January
20, 1319, beginning a tradition that would see a further
35 royal rulers crowned there up until the 17th century. All
of these rulers used the Castle as a residence, and all of
them added their own architectural details to the building.
The moving of the capital to Warsaw in 1596 and Polands
subsequent decline and partitioning saw the Royal Castle
fall into a state of disrepair. The occupying Austrians used
it as a military hospital and even went so far as to demolish
several buildings including a number of churches on the
site. The 20th century saw the Castle change hands on
a number of occasions, with the huge ongoing renovation
works that continue to this day being halted for a number
of reasons, most famousl y when the Castle was used
as the headquarters of the Nazi Governor General, Hans
Frank, during the German occupation of WWII. Todays
Castle complex is a beguiling muddle of styles including
Medieval, Romanesque, Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque.
The inner courtyard with its delightful colonnades is a true
architectural masterpiece, and the treasures contained
within do much to contribute to Krakws rightful status
as a truly world-class city.
Crown Treasury & Armoury (Skarbiec Koronny
i Zbrojownia). Containing Polands very own equivalent
of the Crown Jewels among its many wonders, the Crown
Treasury & Armoury provides a delightful excursion into the
world of the sumptuous, extravagant and brutally violent. To
the left, the Crown Treasury features several glass cases
of golden and bejewelled goblets, platters, coins and other
marvels, of which Szczerbiec - the countrys original corona-
tion sword - is the ultimate highlight. To the right the Armoury
contains a wealth of weaponry including some exceedingly
swanky crossbows and a frightening array of spiky pikes,
while the cellar holds a collection of cannons and replicas
of the banners captured at the Battle of Grunwald. Q Open
09:30 - 17:00, Mon 09:30 - 13:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Last entrance 1 hour 15minutes before closing. Admission
18/11z. Mon free. Check ticket office for details and ticket
availability.
Lost Wawel (Wawel Zaginiony). Thi s smar tl y
conceived and executed exhibit presents the remaining
fragments of medi eval Wawel, i ncl udi ng remnants of
the Rotunda of the Virgin Mary (Krakws first church).
A computer generated model of Wawel gives visitors a
peek into the early 10th century construction. Q Open
09:30 - 17:00, Mon 09:30 - 13:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Last
entrance 1 hour 15 minutes before closing. Admission
8/5z, Mon free. From April 4 10/7z. Check ticket office
for details and for tickets.
Oriental Art (Sztuka Wschodu). This exhibit in the
western wing of the castle comprises art from the Near
East which was highly prized and fashionable amongst the
Polish nobility as it entered the kingdom via military and
trade contact with Turkey, Iran, the Caucasus and Crimea.
Here visitors will see unique collections of Chinese ceramic
and Japanese porcelain, but the part of the exhibit that
makes it essential are the trophies, banners, weapons
and other artefacts captured during King Jan Sobieski IIIs
famous victory over the Turkish army at Vienna in 1683,
including Ottoman commander Kara Mustapha Paras
sabre. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour 15 minutes before clos-
ing. Admission 8/5z.
fot. Stanisaw Michta
One of Wawels most well-known, but officially unendorsed
legends is that of the fabled chakra stone. A chakra, fyi, is
a natural energy point or centre of consciousness found in
every living being, as believed in the religious, spiritual and
yogic traditions of India, China, and independent groups in
the West. According to chakra doctrine, there are seven
chakra points on the body corresponding with the seven
sacred stones the Hindu deity Shiva flung across the earth
as a gift to mankind. Those seven stones just so happened
to land in some of the most important spiritual centres
on earth, namely Rome, Mecca, Delhi, Delphi, Jerusalem,
Velehrad (CZ, must have been bad aim) and what do you
know? the northwestern corner of Wawels immaculate
courtyard. At least thats where believers claim to have
felt its cosmic energy the strongest. Most believers simply
place their hands against the supposed energy source,
though some have gone so far as to stand on their heads
with back, palms and heels pressed against it leaving oily
smudges on the wall that reveal its location to the uniniti-
ated (when you enter the courtyard, turn left and make
for the corner). Doing such today wont earn you much
sympathy from the Castle staff who consider the legend
a nuisance and have done everything they can to deflect
attention away from Wawels famous corner, including
putting up a sign asking people to refrain from touching it
(that obviously didnt work), roping it off, putting museum
exhibits over top of it and having a guard stand nearby as
was the case during our last visit. Wawel tour guides are
stricken from speaking about the chakra stone, as youll
quickly learn if you broach the topic with one. Still dont let
that stop you from getting your chakra on.
The Wawel Chakra
Polish Aviation Museum (Muzeum Lotnictwa
Polskiego) Al. Jana Pawa II 39 (Czyyny), tel.
(+48) 12 642 87 00, www.muzeumlotnictwa.pl.
Until recently this magnificent museum was little more
than a place of marginal interest to flight enthusiasts,
most of them from Poland. A 46 million zoty investment
has changed all that though. The aforementioned fortune
has been spent on a brand new, propeller-shaped build-
ing on four floors, bursting with hi-tech goodies including a
cinema and an interactive space for children alongside a
library, museum shop and a collection of planes including
a marvellous Blriot XI dating from 1909 and a Polish-
built RWD from the 1930s. Considering some 80% of the
financing came from the EU its a little bit disappointing
to see that most of the displays are in Polish only, but
dont let that put you off too much. The rest of the mu-
seum remains intact, including hangars and buildings
containing some remarkable machines, plus uniforms,
photographs and even a complete Spitfire with Polish
markings. The outdoor section (the museum is located
on an old airfield) is littered with aircraft including several
Russian-built fighter jets from the days of the Warsaw
Pact. All in all, the entire ensemble provides exactly the
kind of entertainment and education a museum should
provide, and can take up most of a day to explore thor-
oughly. Northeast of the Old Town on the way to Nowa
Huta, take tram numbers 4, 5, 9, or 10 -or- bus numbers
124 or 424, getting off at the Wieczysta stop. A taxi if
called in advance should cost around 25z each way.
Highly recommended. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 10/5z, Tue free. Y
Out of Centre
pl.wikipedia.org, author KHRoN
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WAWEL
Sandomierska Tower (Baszta Sandomierska).
One of Wawels two artillery towers, Sandomierska Tower
was built around 1460 to defend the castle against attack
from the south. A small chamber on the third floor would have
served as either a guards lodging or a prison for nobles,
whereas common criminals were held in the dungeons.
Recently opened to tourists, climb the 137 winding steps for
great photo opportunities, particularly of the castle court-
yard and Cathedral. Q Open from April 27, 10:00 - 17:00.
From May open 10:00 - 18:00 (note that opening hours are
extended to 19:00 May 1-5 and May 30-31). Last entrance 1
hour 15 minutes before closing. Admission 4z. Children under
7 free. Tickets are sold from a machine outside the entrance.
State Rooms & Royal Private Apartments
(Reprezentacyjne Komnaty i Prywatne Aparta-
menty Krlewskie). Two collections in one, of which
the latter is onl y accessi bl e on a speciall y conducted
guided tour, these are the rooms in which the royals once
lived and did their entertaining. The spectacular State
Rooms seemingly go on forever, and are full of luscious
oil paintings, intricate 16th-century Flemish tapestries,
some truly extraordinary wallpaper and the breathtaking
Bird Room. Hi ghli ghts include the eerie Deputies Hall,
compl ete wi th 30 wooden representati ons of former
Krakw residents heads on the coffered ceiling and an
original throne that really brings the majesty of Polands
past to li fe. The Royal Private Apartments are, as one
would expect, stunning. Packed with delightful Gothic and
Renaissance details, rooms include the wonderful Guest
Bedroom, complete with original Renaissance larch wood
ceiling, and the charmingly named Hens Foot - two small
rooms inside the 14th-century Bel vedere Tower. What
these rooms were originally used for is anyones guess,
but the view from the windows is well worth the visit. Q
Open 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission to State Rooms 18/11z. Royal Apartments
25/19z (guide included).
Cathedral
Cathedral (Katedra) B-5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12
429 33 27, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. The scene
of the crowning of almost every Polish king and queen
throughout history, the current Wawel Cathedral is the third
to be built on the site. The first cathedral was built of wood,
probably around 1020, but certainly after the founding of
the Bishopric of Krakw in 1000AD. Destroyed by fire it
was replaced by a second cathedral that subsequently
burnt down again. The current building was consecrated
in 1364 and built on the orders of Polands first king to be
crowned at Wawel, Wadysaw the Short (aka. Wadysaw
the Elbow-high, 1306-1333), who was crowned among
the charred rubble of its predecessor in 1319. Considered
the most important singl e buil ding in Poland, Wawels
extraordinary Cathedral contains much that is original,
although many glorious additions have been made over the
centuries. Arguably not as stunning as that of its cousin
St. Marys on the Rynek, the interior of Wawel Cathedral
more than makes up for its visual shortcomings thanks to
the sheer amount of history packed inside. At its centre
is the imposing tomb of the former Bishop of Krakw, St.
Stanisaw (1030-1079), a suitably grand monument dedi-
cated to the controversial cleric after whom the Cathedral
is dedicated. Boasting 18 chapels, all of them about as
ostentatious as youre ever likel y to see, of particular
interest is the 15th-century Chapel of the Hol y Cross,
found to the right as you enter and featuring some won-
derful Russian murals as well as Veit Stoss 1492 marble
sarcophagus to Kazimierz IV. The Royal Crypts offer a
cold and atmospheric diversion as the final resting place
of kings and statesmen - most recently fromer president
Lech Kaczyski - while at the top of a gruelling wooden
series of staircases is the vast, 11 tonne Sigismund Bell
- so loud it can supposedly be heard 50km away.QOpen
09:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 - 17:00.
Cathedral Museum (Muzeum Katerdralne)
B- 5, Wawel 2, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.
katedra-wawelska.pl. Opened in 1978 by Karol Woj tya
j ust before he became Pope John Paul II, the fabul ous
Cathedral Museum features a weal th of reli gi ous and
secular i tems dati ng from the 13th century onwards,
all related to the ups and downs of the Cathedral next
door. Among i ts most valuabl e possessions is the sword
deli beratel y snapped i nto three pi eces at the funeral
of the Cal vinist king, Zygmunt August (1548-1572) the
last of the Jagi ell onian dynasty, as well as all manner of
coronation robes and royal insi gnias too boot. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00. Cl osed Sun. Last entrance 30 minutes
before cl osi ng.
Royal Crypts (Groby Krlewskie) B-5, Wawel 3,
tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.pl.
While all Polands pre-16th kings were buried beneath or
within their hulking sarcophagi still on view in the Cathedral
today, that trend stopped in 1533 when King Sigismund I
had his wife interred in a purpose-built underground vault. He
joined her in 1548 and the crypts were expanded in the 16th,
17th and 18th centuries to house the remains of nine more
Polish kings, their wives and, in some cases, their children
thereafter. Upon the demise of the monarchy (and kingdom
itself), the honour was extended to statesmen with Prince
Jzef Poniatowski (1817), Tadeusz Kociuszko (1818), poets
Adam Mickiewicz (1890) and Juliusz Sowacki (1923), Jzef
Pisudski (1935) and General Wadysaw Sikorski (1993) all
securing themselves a place here. Most recently - in April
of 2010 - the late President Lech Kaczyski and his wife
Maria were controversially interred here after the tragedy
in Smolesk; admission to their tomb (and that of Pisudski)
is free. Descend the stairs inside the Cathedral into the
remarkably chilly chambers, beginning with the 11th century
St. Leonards Crypt - the best Romanesque interior in PL;
the exit deposits you back outside. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00,
Sun 12:30 - 17:00.
Sigismund Bell (Dzwon Zygmunta) B-5, Wawel
3, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Follow the crowds up the
many gruelling flights of Sigismunds Bel fry to reach the
infamous Sigismund Bell - a resounding symbol of Polish
nationalism ala Philadelphias Liberty Bell. The largest by
far of five bells hanging in the same tower, Sigismunds Bell
weighs in at an astounding 13 tonnes (9630 kgs), measures
241cm in height, 242cm across at the lip and varies from
7 to 21cm thick. The bronze beauty was cast in 1520 on
the orders of King Sigismund I and is adorned in reliefs
of St. Stanislav and St. Sigismund as well as the coat of
arms of Poland and Lithuania. Rung to this day on religious
and national holidays, as well as si gni ficant moments
in history (most recently the funeral of former President
Lech Kaczyski and his wi fe) the bells peal can be heard
50km away and is quite an enterprise to ring, requiring
the strength of twelve strong men; a dangerous job, the
bell-tollers are actually li fted from the ground by the force
of the bell, resulting in at least one famous accident when
a bell-toller was flung from the tower to his death during
the interwar period. The entrance to Sigismund Belltower is
within the Cathedral and tickets (good for the Royal Crypts
as well) are purchased at the ticket office across from the
Cathedrals main entrance. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sun
12:30 - 17:00.
WAWEL
Cathedral Tickets & Tourist Information B-5,
Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 12 429 95 15, www.katedra-
wawelska.pl. The Cathedral and the Castle have different
ticket offices. Tickets for the Cathedral can be purchased
only in the ticket office directly opposite the Cathedral
entrance. While entrance to the actual cathedral itself
is free you will need a ticket to enter the adjoining Royal
Crypts and Sigismund Bell tower. A single ticket covers
these as well as the Cathedral Museum. Audioguides
for the Cathedral and Cathedral Museum can be rented
from the ticket office for 7/5z in Polish, English, German,
Russian, Italian, Spanish, Czech or French. QOpen 09:00
- 16:30, Sun 12:30 - 16:30. Tickets covering the Cathedral
Museum, Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell cost 12/7z.
Note that the Cathedral Museum is closed Sun, but your
ticket is valid to visit another day.
Cathedral Tickets Wawel Visitor Centre B-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48)
12 422 51 55 (ext. 219), www.wawel.krakow.
pl. Wawel visitor numbers are restricted and tickets
are timed in an attempt to prevent overcrowding. To
guarantee entry as well as avoiding the need to stand
in long queues, call tel. 12 422 16 97 to reserve
tickets for the exhibition you want to see at least one
day before you visit. Tickets should be collected at
the Wawel Visitor Centre Reservation Office at least
30mins before the reserved tour time. All exhibits are
sel f-guided except for the Royal Apartments, however
foreign language guides can be arranged at extra cost
i f done in advance. In addition to ticket sales and pick-
up, the Visitor Centre is also the place to get more info
about various theme tours on offer, pick up free maps
or make use of the small post office, gi ft shop and
caf/restaurant. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. From May
open 09:00 - 20:00.
Wawel Visitor Centre
Lady Wi th An Ermi ne
(Dama z asi cz k) .
Krakws prized art piece is this
Leonardo Da Vinci oil painting -
one of only three in the world,
and a sentimental favourite of
Pol es, reproduced and hung
in many a home. Leonardos
Lady has a chequered history;
when she isnt entertaining she
always seems to be on the run
or i n hi di ng somewhere. For
centuries she was off the map completely, before having
a rendezvous with Prince Adam Czartoryski during his Ital-
ian holiday in 1800. Gentleman that he was, he brought
her home to his native Poland, where she was part of the
family until escaping to Paris in 1830 during the Warsaw
Insurrection. The Lady later returned to Poland in 1876
moving into what would become her official address in
Krakws Czartoryski Museum, only to be captured by
the Nazis and moved to Berlin. In 1946 the Americans
rescued her and returned her to Krakw where she is
today one of the citys most beloved treasures.
Leonardos Lady will be on display at Wawel for the
next two years until its proper home in the Czartoryski
Museum is reopened after renovation. Exhibited on its
own alongside in depth information about its complicated
history and authenticity, the priceless painting requires
a separate admission ticket and absolutely shouldnt be
missed. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/8z.
Lady With an Ermine
Dragons Den (Smocza
Jama) B-5, Western, low
end of Wawel Hill, www.
wawel.krakow.pl. Formed
about 25 million years ago, the
spectacular limestone forma-
tion of Wawel Hill is not the
solid piece of rock it appears
to be, but rather fill ed wi th
eerie caves and crawl spaces.
As legend would have it, the
craggy chambers beneath
Wawel were once home to
Smok Wawelski, or the Wawel
Dragon, a particularly nasty
creature who l i ked nothi ng
more than to gorge himsel f
on sheep and local maidens.
Story goes that as the village ran out of virgins, the King
promised the hand of his only daughter to the hero who could
vanquish the vile beast. Wave upon wave of brave knights
fell beneath the dragons fiery breath before a poor cobbler
named Krak tricked Smok into eating a sheep stuffed full
of sulphur, which instantly ignited inside his gullet. With an
unquenchable thirst the dragon went and drank half the river
before his distended belly exploded and the town was freed
of his wrath. The rest, as they say, is history: Krak married
the princess, became king, built his castle on the dragons
lair and the people built a city around it named Krakw
after their king.
Smoks bones were hung triumphantly outside the entrance
of the Cathedral, where they remain today. His cave later
became a famous tavern and brothel during medieval times
and is now a tourist trap luring families into its dripping, less
than awe-inspiring confines. Save this for last as you enter a
descending staircase from inside the castle courtyard where
it overlooks the Wisa River, to be later deposited outside the
complex on the riverbank below in front of Smoks sculpted
bronze likeness unveiled in 1972 to a design by the local
artist Bronisaw Chromy. It was once possible to send Smok
an SMS which would send him into temporary raptures of
fire-breathing bliss, however he now does it without checking
his phone first, so just be patient and dont look down his
throat. Q Open from April 2, 10:00 - 17:00. From May open
10:00 - 18:00 (note that opening hours extend to 19:00 May
1-5, and 30-31). Admission 3z. Tickets are purchased from
a machine outside the entrance.
The Senators Hall fot. Anna Stankiewicz
fot. Anna Stankiewicz
93
92
OLD TOWN
KAZIMIERZ
Kazimierz demolished. Kazimierz was finally going places;
in 1857 the first gas lamps lit up the streets, a tram depot
added in 1888 and in 1905 a power station. By 1910
the Jewish population stood at 32,000, a fi gure that was
to nearl y doubl e during the inter-war years, and a ri ch
cul tural li fe arose around them. But this was to change
wi th the outbreak of WWII, and the Nazis monstrous
i deas of racial superiori ty. Approximatel y three to fi ve
thousand of Krakws Jews survi ved the horror of the
Hol ocaust, a large proportion of them saved by Oskar
Schindl er. Al though 5,000 Jews were registered as li v-
ing in Krakw in 1950 any hopes of rekindling the past
soon vanished. The anti -Zionist poli ci es of the post-war
communist authori ti es sparked waves of emi gration to
Israel, and by the 1970s si gns of Jewish li fe had all but
disappeared. The fall of communism in 1989 sparked
new hope. Kazimi erz by this time had become a bandi t
suburb, the sort of place youd onl y visi t wi th mili tary
backup. But investment began tri ckling in and the areas
decline was reversed; 1988 saw the first Jewish Festi val
take place, and fi ve years later the Judai ca Foundation
was opened. That was also the year Spi el berg arri ved to
film Schindlers List, a film that woul d put Kazimi erz on
the world map and irrevocably change its fortunes. Today
a visi t to Kazimi erz ranks j ust as hi gh on i tinerari es as a
trip to Wawel, illustrating the histori cal importance and
publi c regard the area has.
What To See
To get a feel for the area start your tour of Kazimierz at the top
of ulica Szeroka, coming from ulica Miodowa (E-6). Here
youll find the restaurant Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Long
Ago in Kazimierz). Disguised to look like a row of shop fronts
the doorways come adorned with traders names splashed
on them: Holzer, Weinberg, Nowak. Its not hard to feel the
ghosts of the past as you walk down the Austrian cobbles.
Next door stock up on your literature by visiting Jarden, the
areas first Jewish bookstore, or take a look at Szeroka
6 (now Klezmer Hois hotel and restaurant). The building
formerly housed the Great Mikvah, a ritual bathhouse that
gained notoriety in 1567 when the wooden floor collapsed
and ten women drowned. Modern day Szeroka has a raft of
restaurants to pick from, though you cant do much better
than visiting Rubinstein at number 12. Its named so for a
reason. Queen of Cosmetics Helena Rubinstein was born
next door at number 14.
KAZIMIERZ
Plac Nowy D- 6. Whil e
Krakws mai n square,
Rynek Gwny, makes all
the postcards and pho-
tographs, i t is Plac Nowy
i n Kazi mi er z t hat has
emerged as the spi ri -
tual centre of Krakw
sub- cul t ur e. L acki ng
the spl endour of the Ol d
Town, Pl ac Nowy i s, i f
anythi ng, somethi ng of an eyesore - a col l ecti on of
unkempt bui l di ngs surroundi ng a concrete square
fi l l ed wi th chi pped green market stal l s and rat-l i ke
pi geons fl appi ng about. I f you want somethi ng
compl etel y di f ferent from the Ol d Town, however,
here i t i s.

Pl ac Nowy started assumi ng i ts shape i n 1808 hav-
i ng been i ncorporated i nto the Jewi sh quarter i n the
l ate 17th century, and i ts Jewi sh connecti ons are
hi ghl i ghted by an oft-encountered l ocal i nsi stence
on referri ng to i t as Pl ac ydowski (Jewi sh Square).
For over 200 years i t has served as a market pl ace
wi th i ts central l andmark, the Okrgl ak (rotunda) ,
bei ng added i n 1900. The rotunda was l eased to the
Jewish communi ty in 1927 serving as a ri tual slaugh-
terhouse for poul try ri ght up unti l Nazi occupati on.
Fol l owi ng the war i t resumed i ts rol e as the centre
of the market around i t, a functi on i t sti l l carri es
today. Butcher shops sti l l occupy the i nteri or, but
the real acti on i s to be found outsi de where hungry
l ocal s are happy to l i ne-up outsi de the dozen or so
hol e-i n-the-wall fast food hatches that operate from
the rotunda, eager to taste the best zapi ekanka
i n Pol and. Pl aci ng thei r orders through the smal l
wi ndows youl l fi nd ever yone from pol i ce bl okes
i gnori ng emergency cal l s on thei r wal ki e-tal ki es,
to sti ck-thi n party gi rl s getti ng thei r weeks worth
of cal ori es wi th thi s l egendar y Cracovi an street
food. Vi si ti ng Krakw wi thout eati ng a Pl ac Nowy
zapi ekanka woul d be l i ke vi si ti ng Dubl i n wi thout
havi ng a Gui nness.

Surrounding the Okrglak (rotunda) are some 310
tradi ng stal l s, and youl l fi nd somethi ng goi ng on
dail y from 5:30am till earl y afternoon. Fresh produce,
sweets and random rubbish are constant guarantees
but weekl y hi ghl i ghts i ncl ude j unk/anti que sal e
Saturdays, Sundays cl othing market, and Tuesday
and Fri day mornings bewil dering small cri tter expo/
pi geon fair. A photo essay wai ting to happen, arri ve
earl y to the latter to l earn the answer to the ri ddl e,
How many rabbi ts fi t in a sui tcase?

As trade dri es up for the day the area takes on a
new guise: Krakws premi er pub crawl circui t. Find
the academi cs wi th beads, beards and secondhand
books in places like Singer, Alchemia and Les Cou-
leurs, whil e the similarl y dark and arty Mleczarnia
down the road (ul. Meiselsa) boasts the ci tys best
beer garden during the warm months. Full of sham-
boli c charm, Plac Nowy is beginning to di versi fy to a
degree with glammy pre-club places like Le Scandale
and Baroque, and Taawa - the first danceclub to
open on Plac Nowy.
Plac Nowy
Kazimierz is the district that housed Krakws Jews for over
500 years. Since the 1990s it has been rediscovered, and
its expunged Jewish culture gradually reintroduced. Famous
for its associations with Schindler and Spielberg, theres
more to the historic Jewish quarter than cemeteries and
synagogues. Lying between shops selling buttons and
spanners, youll find the heart of Krakows artsy character.
Peeling faades and wooden shutters hide dozens of cafes,
many effecting an air of pre-war timelessness. Alternative,
edgy and packed with oddities this is an essential point of
interest to any visitor.
The history of Kazimierz can be traced back to 1335 when
it was officially founded as an island town by King Kazimierz
the Great. Unlike Krakw, which was largely populated by
Germans, Kazimierz was dominated by Poles. It was not
until 1495 when Jews were expelled from Krakw that they
started to arrive to Kazimierz in force. Awarded its Magdeburg
Rights, which allowed markets to be held in what is now Pl.
Wolnica, Kazimierz prospered and it is recorded as being
one of the most influential Polish towns during the middle
ages. By the 17th century Jewish life was flourishing and
numerous synagogues had been constructed. Alas, Kazimi-
erz was about to run out of luck. In 1651 the area was hit
by the plague, then four years later ransacked and ruined
by the Swedish invaders. Famine, floods and anti-Jewish
riots followed in quick succession, and it wasnt long till a
mass migration to Warsaw began, leaving the once vibrant
Kazimierz a broken shell.
In 1796 Krakw came under Austrian control, and four
years later Kazimi erz was incorporated into Krakw. I t
was to si gnal the areas rebirth. The governing Austrians
ordered Krakws Jews to resettl e i n Kazi mi erz, and
the area was sl owl y redevel oped; timber houses were
banned, streets were cobbl ed and walls that once ringed
Plac Wolnica D-7. Perhaps Krakws most forgotten
square, its hard to imagine that Plac Wolnica was once
equal in size and stature to Krakws Rynek Gwny.
When laid out as the town square of Kazimierz (Rynek
Kazimierski) upon the towns establishment in 1335,
this space measured 195m by 195m (only 5m shorter
on each side than Rynek Gwny) making it the second
largest market square in Poland, if not Europe. It was
here that all the administrative and judicial authorities
of Kazimierz were established, as well as hundreds of
market stalls selling everything from fur and tobacco to
salt and amber. Hardly the bustling marketplace it once
was, todays Plac Wolnica (named so since the end of
the 18th century when it was granted the privilege of
free trade) covers only a small fragment of the squares
original size. However, the Town Hall has managed to sur-
vive. Falling into ruin after Kazimierzs incorporation into
Krakw in 1802, the Town Hall was taken over by local
Jewish authorities who renovated it into its present neo-
Renaissance style in the late 19th century. Since WWII it
has housed the recommended Ethnographic Museum.
Ironically, it has been the once more predominantly Jew-
ish neighbourhoods around Plac Nowy that have keyed
Kazimierzs revival over the last decade as Plac Wolnica
has become more synonymous with parking, pigeons
and drunken derelicts. That is all beginning to change
however, with more cafs and restaurants opening
around its edges and a new pedestrian bridge connect-
ing Kazimierz with Podgrze over the river to the south.
Plac Wolnica
Kazimierz Town Hall/Ethnographic Museum on Plac Wolnica
fot. Marcin W
Take time out to explore the citys two most important
synagogues - the Old Synagogue and Remuh Synagogue
- before veering to the right and onto ulica Jzefa. The
street actually takes its name not after Joseph of Bible
fame, but the Habsburg Emperor Joseph II who stayed on
this street while touring his nearly conquered territories.
Find the High Synagogue at number 38, so called because
the prayer room was located on the first floor. Looted dur-
ing WWII the synagogue housed the Historic Monuments
Preservation Studio in the post-war years, only returning
to its intended function in the 1990s. Today it houses the
Austeria bookshop (see Shopping) and a small exhibition
space with rotating historical exhibits about the history of
Polands Jewish population. Make a right on ul. Estery to
visit Plac Nowy, or continue past the numerous cafes,
art galleries and antique shops to ul. Jzefa 12 (D-6) to
find what many regard to be Krakws most picturesque
courtyard. Accessed via an archway, the cobbled courtyard
is instantly recognisable from Spielbergs Schindlers List,
particularly from the other side on ul. Meiselsa, where youll
find the excellent Mleczarnia cafe/beer garden and the
Judaica Foundation at no. 17. When facing the courtyard
and beer garden, Plac Nowy - the heart of the district - is
again directly to your left.
While on your Kazimierz safari do put aside time to visit the
Galicia Jewish Museum (ul. Daj wr 18, E-6) and Isaac
Synagogue (ul. Kupa 18, E-6), whose restored interiors
now house a permanent exhibition titled In memory of Pol-
ish Jews. In 1939 a member of the synagogue committee
was executed inside these halls after refusing to set fire
to it. The synagogue is also the source of an enchant-
ing legend. It relates to the founder, Isaac, a devout but
impoverished Jew who once had a dream telling him i f he
went to Prague he would discover great treasures buried
by a bridge. Following his instincts he set off to Prague,
only to find the bridge he had dreamt of surrounded by a
garrison of soldiers. Having spotted him loitering, one of
the soldiers challenged Isaac as to his intentions. Isaac
came cl ean, onl y for the sol dier to scoff words to the
effect of Youre an idiot! Ive been having dreams all my
li fe about a Krakw Jew called Isaac who has treasure
hidden under his stove. But Im not stupid enough to go
to Krakw, especiall y seeing that every second Jew is
called Isaac. You can guess the rest. The moment Isaac
returned home he pulled the stove down and discovered a
wealth of riches, making him the richest man in Kazimierz.
But Kazimierz is not exclusively Jewish. Take for example
the stunning Corpus Christi Church on ul. Boego Ciaa
(D-6/7). Completed in 1405 the 70 metre tower dominates
the horizon, and work through the ages has seen a slew of
intricate details added to both the exteriors and interiors.
Try and track down the tiny church prison in which sinners
who had broken the sixth commandment would be held and
subjected to public ridicule. Also of note is a 15th century
painting, the Madonna Terribilis Daemonibus. Used in exor-
cisms for the last five centuries the canvas is reputed to
have warded off a hundred thousand demons. Sticking to the
ecclesiastical theme stop by Skaka (C-7). Its right by the al-
tar that Stanisaw, the Bishop of Szczepanw was murdered
and then quartered at the whim of King Bolesaw the Bold.
Stanisaw was later beatified, becoming the patron saint of
Poland, and it became a tradition for Polish Kings to make the
pilgrimage from Wawel to this church in a bid to compensate
for the sins of Bolesaw. A stone allegedly splattered with
the blood of the saint can be viewed close by. Ghouls will
also to be delighted to learn of the crypt, one of the most
high profile in Krakw. Its here youll find the mortal remains
of local heroes Czesaw Miosz and Stanisaw Wyspiaski.
www.placnowy.pl
94 95
ing composer Karol Szymanowski, writer Czesaw Miosz
and painters Stanisaw Wyspiaski and Jacek Malczewski.
Q Open 06:30 - 19:00, Sun 06:30 - 20:00. Crypt open on
request only. No visiting during mass please.
Museums & Synagogues
City Engineering Museum (Muzeum Inynierii
Miejskiej) E-7, ul. w. Wawrzyca 15, tel. (+48) 12 421
12 42, www.mimk.com.pl. Evidence that Polish museums
are catching up with the modern world, this charming museum
inside an old tram depot features five separate exhibitions. The
first two deal with the history of public transport in Krakw and
the development of the Polish automotive industry through a
hangar full of old tram cars and trolleys and a large collection
of unique wheeled vehicles, the third explores the history of
printing in Krakw from the 15th to 20th centuries, while the
other two are fun, interactive exhibits aimed at children and
families. Around the Circle teaches kids fundamental scientific
principles via 30 hands-on play stations, and the outdoor
Garden Of New Words (Ogrdek Nowych Swek) is more like
a playground for 3-5 year-olds where theyll learn first-hand the
meaning of words such as gravity (open in nice weather only
and closed in autumn/winter). Recommended for families and
more fun than it sounds, the science exhibits will hold kids
interest long enough for Dad to look at car engines, while Mom
dreams of escaping on that motorbike. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 8/5.5z, family ticket 24z. Y
Ethnographic Museum (Muzeum Etnograficzne)
D-7, Pl. Wolnica 1, tel. (+48) 12 430 55 63, www.etno-
muzeum.eu. Founded in 1911 by the teacher and folklore
enthusiast Seweryn Udziela (1857-1937) and located inside
Kazimierzs former Town Hall, this cultural highlight usu-
ally gets overlooked by tourists - wrongfully so. Theres not
enough space here to wax lyrical about the delights inside,
including beauti ful recreations of 19th-century peasant
houses, folk costumes, some extraordinary examples of the
so-called Nativity Cribs, the breathtaking top floor collection
of folk art and two reproduced folk rooms - Izba Podhalaska
and Izba Krakowska. With many of the exhibits explained in
good English, all we need say is it does a highly commendable
job of promoting and explaining Polish folk culture, and cant
come recommended enough. A separate gallery for changing
exhibits can be found nearby at ul. Krakowska 46. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 9/5z, Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Galicia Jewish Museum (ydowskie Muzeum
Galicja) E-6, ul. Dajwr 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 68 42,
www.galiciajewishmuseum.org. The brainchild of award-
winning photo-journalist Chris Schwarz, The Galicia Jewish
Museum is comprised of some 135 photographs aimed at
keeping alive the memory of Jewish life in the south of Poland
in the aftermath of the Holocaust. Schwarzs images of forgot-
ten cemeteries, derelict synagogues and death camps prove
haunting and sober viewing, and deserve to be an essential
part of any Kazimierz tour. Though his exhibition serves as the
focal point, the converted warehouse also houses temporary
exhibits, a caf, information point and a bookstore selling
a range of titles of Jewish interest. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission 15/10z, family ticket 30z. Children under 7 free.
Guided tours for groups of over 10 cost 13.50/8z per person;
individual guided tours cost 1h-100z Tours available in English
and German (book in advance for German). Y
Isaacs Synagogue (Synagoga Izaaka) E- 6, ul.
Kupa 18, tel. (+48) 12 430 22 22, www.chabadkrakow.
pl. Isaacs Synagogue, built in the early Judaic-Baroque
style, was opened in 1644, and was a gift to the city from a
KAZIMIERZ KAZIMIERZ
wealthy Jew, Izaak Jakubowicz. It is perhaps the most strik-
ingly beauti ful of the Kazimierz synagogues, decoratively
endowed with arabesques and arches yet retaining a sober
linearity, especially within. There is much to admire, not least
the fragments of original wall scriptures. Rabbi Eliezer Gurary
runs the place with a smile and is usually on hand to provide
information to all comers. A shop inside sells kosher food,
wine and sweets, Jewish calendars and other items. Q Open
08:30 - 20:00, Fri 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sat. Admission 7/4z.
Old Synagogue (Stara Synagoga) E-6, ul. Szeroka 24,
tel. (+48) 12 422 09 62, www.mhk.pl. Built on the cusp
of the 15th and 16th centuries, the Old Synagogue serves as
the oldest surviving example of Jewish religious architecture in
Poland and is home to a fine series of exhibits that showcase the
history and traditions of Polish Judaism. It is no longer a working
synagogue. The English explanations assume no great depth
of knowledge on the readers part and are therefore a perfect
primer on the subject. In the midst of all the glass cases stands
the bimah enclosed in an elaborate, wrought iron balustrade.
There are also temporary exhibitions held from time to time
particularly during the citys Jewish festival held towards the
end of June. The bookshop sells a fine selection of works
related to Jewish Krakw, in a number of languages. Q Open
09:00 - 17:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 9/7z, family ticket 18z, Mon free. Y
Remuh Synagogue & Cemetery (Synagoga Remuh
z Cmentarzem) E-6, ul. Szeroka 40, tel. (+48) 12 430
54 11. The smallest but most active synagogue in Kazimierz,
dating from 1553. Under normal circumstances, if you enter
quietly, you may even be afforded a glimpse of a service. Cur-
rently however, restoration works mean youll need to make an
appointment to see the interior or stroll through the cemetery
which was in use until 1800. This holy burial ground was spared
by the vandalism of the Nazis because many of the gravestones
had been buried to avoid desecration during the 19th century
occupation of Krakw by Austrian forces. Most famous is the
tomb of the 16th century Rabbi Moses Isserles, better known
as the Remuh. Beside him lies his wife, Golda Auerbach, in the
cemeterys oldest tomb. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat.
From May open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Admission 5/2z.
Temple Synagogue (Synagoga Tempel) D-6, ul.
Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 430 54 11. Kazimierzs newest
synagogue dates back to 1862, with several later expansions,
the most recent of which was in 1924. Under Nazi occupation
the building was used as a warehouse and stables, yet survived
the war and regular services were even held here until 1968,
before stopping completely a decade later. Since restoration,
the gilded woodwork within now plays host to many concerts and
occasional religious ceremonies, particularly during the annual
Jewish Festival of Culture. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat.
From May open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Admission 5/2z.
Churches
Corpus Christi Church (Koci Boego Ciaa)
D/E- 6/7, ul. Boego Ciaa 26, www.bozecialo.net.
This massive brick beauty from the 14th century takes
up two entire blocks in Kazimierz, making it one of the
citys largest holy sites. A three-naver in the Gothic style,
the pulpit features a golden boat (with oars and a mast
even) being held aloft by two mermaids. And though there
are few things we like more than mermaids, the crowning
glory has to be the towering golden altarpiece (removed
for renovation unfortunately). According to legend, a rob-
ber who had stolen a precious relic from another church
repented on this spot, abandoni ng the reli quary. The
priests in pursui t saw a strange li ght emanating from
the ground and discovering their sacred prize, founded a
church here in recognition of the miracle. Q Open 08:30
- 12:00, 13:00 - 19:00, Sun 06:30 - 20:00. Not visiting
during mass please.
Skaka (Koci Paulinw, Pauline Church) C-7,
West end of ul. Skaeczna, tel. (+48) 12 421 72 44,
www.skalka.paulini.pl. Commonly referred to as Skaka,
this gorgeous riverside sanctuary is one of the most impor-
tant religious sites in Krakw, with a fair share of history. In
1079, King Bolesaw the Bold accused the bishop of Krakw,
Stanisaw Szczepaski, of treason. According to legend,
the bishop was beheaded with the sword seen next to the
altar and then his body was chopped into pieces on a tree
stump. After the murder, the royal family fell under a curse.
To appease the spirit of the wronged bishop, the family built
the Pauline Church and made regular pilgrimages there to
atone for the murder. Szczepaski was canonised in 1253.
The Skaka crypt is packed tight with important Poles includ-
The Old Synagogue
City Tourist Information D-6, ul. Jzefa 7, tel.
(+48) 12 422 04 71, www.infokrakow.pl. Informa-
tion on what to see and whats going on in Kazimierz.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Jarden E-6, ul. Szeroka 2, tel. (+48) 12 421 71 66,
www.jarden.pl. Jewish bookshop that also arranges
guided Schindlers List tours and trips to Auschwitz-
Birkenau. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Jewish Community (Gmina Wyznaniowa
ydowska) D-7, ul. Skawiska 2, tel. (+48) 12 430
54 11, www.krakow.jewish.org.pl. It has around 160
members and organises events and gatherings for the
Jewish community in Krakw. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Jewi sh Communi ty Centr e (Centr um
Spoecznoci ydowskiej w Krakowie) D-6,
ul. Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 370 57 70, www.
jcckrakow.org. The headquarters of Krakws surviv-
ing and strengthening Jewish community. JCC organ-
ises numerous events (check website for calendar) and
exhibits, arranges tours, and is home to a large library
of Jewish related materials. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Judaica Foundation D-6, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel.
(+48) 12 430 64 49, www.judaica.pl. This civic and
cultural centre hosts lectures and exhibits reflecting
Jewish life past and present, and includes a cafe with a
great little rooftop terrace - one of Kazimierzs best-kept
secrets. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Useful Contacts
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OLD TOWN
When Spi el ber g came to
Krakw to produce his award-
winning film Schindlers List,
the resul t was a fast and
far-reaching revitalisation of
Kazimierz, Krakws former
Jewish district. Ironically, how-
ever, it didnt reach across the
river to Podgrze, despite the
fact most of the films historic
events took place there, as
did much of the filming. As
Kazi mi erz became super-
saturated with tourists and
bars, predictions were that
Podgrze would emerge as Krakws next hip bohemian
district; however aside from a small stable of rogue cafes,
things were slow to develop and for a long time getting off the
beaten path in Krakw was as easy as crossing the river to
Podgrze. Since the opening of Schindlers Factory as a major
attraction and the construction of the Bernatek footbridge
creating a direct artery of tourist traffic into the district, that
has begun to change, but Podgrze remains Krakws most
mysterious and underappreciated neighbourhood.
A district rich in natural beauty, tragic history and unusual at-
tractions, the first signs of settlement in Podgrze date from
over ten thousand years ago, though the Swedish invasion in
the 17th century saw much of Podgrze levelled. Awarded the
rights of a free city in 1784 by the Austrian Emperor Joseph
II, the town was eventually incorporated as Krakws fourth
district in 1915, and the following decades saw its aggressive
development; quarries and brickworks were constructed, and
a string of military forts added, of which Fort Benedict (K-5)
is the only still standing. An indication of Podgrzes age is
Krakus Mound (K-5), excavations of which have dated it to
the Iron Age. However, the trespasses of more recent history
are what people most associate with the district.
On March 21, 1941, the entire Jewish population residing in
Kazimierz were marched across the Powstancw lskich
bridge and crammed into what was to become known as the
Podgrze Ghetto. Traces of the Ghetto still exist, includ-
ing a prominent stretch of the wall on ul. Lwowska (K-4).
Liquidated on March 14, 1943, the majority of the Ghettos
residents were murdered there, while others met death in the
nearby Liban quarry and Paszw concentration camp, or
in the gas chambers of Auschwitz-Birkenau. The opening
of the Schindlers Factory Museum (K-4, Lipowa 4) has, in
addition to helping the city bury the ghosts of the Holocaust,
finally endorsed Podgrzes status as a bona fide tourist
destination. With plenty to see and do, you could easily spend
an entire day exploring Podgrze and a walk up into the hills
is not only a great way to get off the beaten path - its also
Krakws most evocative area.
Churches
St. Benedicts K-5, Lasota Hill. Take any of the dark,
daunting trails off ul. Rkawka into the wooded limestone
cliffs of Krzemionki to discover one of Krakws oldest, small-
est and most mysterious churches in the clearing next to
the St. Benedict Fort. The date of the present structure has
been hard to determine, but the curious site certainly dates
back to the 11th century and a leading theory attributes it
to the Benedictine monks of Tyniec. Saved from destruction
and dereliction by a local priest the tiny, cramped interior -
consisting of only a small nave and chancel with a painting
of St. Benedict over the pulpit - has been restored, but can
only be accessed twice a year: on St. Benedicts Name Day
PODGRZE PODGRZE
(July) and, ironically, during the pagan Rkawka festival held
the first Tuesday after Easter.
St. Josephs J-5, ul. Zamojskiego 2, tel. (+48) 12
656 17 56, www.jozef.diecezja.pl. Presiding over the
heart of historic Podgrze on the south side of the districts
main square, this unmissable neo-gothic juggernaut was
built between 1905-09 on the design of Jan Sas-Zubrzycki.
Dominated by an 80 metre clock tower, elaborate masonry
dressing, gargoyles and sculptures of saints, St. Josephs
slender, yet imposing brick facade rates among the most
beautiful in Krakw and is gorgeously illuminated at night. The
interior is no less beautiful and visitors should also note the
abandoned 1832 belfry that stands on a rocky outcropping
behind the church - all that remains of the original temple,
dismantled due to design flaws. Q
Open during mass only and by prior arrangement.
Museums
Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK Muzeum
Sztuki Wspczesnej w Krakowie) K-4, ul. Lipowa
4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. Opened on
May 20th 2011, Krakows Museum of Contemporary Art
(MOCAK) does not disappoint, receiving rave reviews from all
who have been thus far. Tucked behind Schindlers Factory,
the building alone will impress with its avant-garde styling
and ultra-modern layout. The museum boasts a large and
fine permanent collection of modern art highlighting both
Polish and international artists, plus the Mieczysaw Porbski
Library and its collection of works on art theory and history.
Several provocative temporary exhibitions are ever-changing:
check their website for details. Despite the relatively late
closing hour (19:00), make sure to leave yourself plenty of
time to enjoy all the museum has to offer. QOpen 11:00 -
19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance one hour before closing.
Admission 10/5z, family ticket 20z. Tue free.
Schindlers Factory (Fabryka Schindlera) K- 4,
ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 257 10 17, www.mhk.pl.
After years of preparation, the Oskar Schindler Enamelled
Goods Factory (to give it its full name) re-opened to the
public as a world-class museum in June 2010. The story of
Oskar Schindler and his employees is one which has been
well-known since the book and film by Thomas Keneally and
Steven Spielberg (whose film Schindlers List was shot al-
most entirely in Krakw), and while that story is now covered
in detail on the original site, the museum casts the city of
Krakw in the main role of its permanent exhibition titled,
Krakw During Nazi Occupation 1939-1945. Individual his-
tories of Krakws wartime inhabitants guide visitors through
the exhibit which covers the war of 1939, Krakws role as
the seat of the General Government, everyday li fe under
occupation, the fate of the Jews and the citys underground
resistance using vast archival documents, photos, radio and
film recordings, period artefacts and dynamic multimedia
installations. A separate section of the factory is reserved
for film screenings, lectures and other cul tural events,
and another large part of the factory was controversially
converted to host MOCAK - the contemporary art museum
which opened in spring 2011.
The development of Schindlers Factory into a world-class
educational and cultural site is great news not only for tour-
ists, but also for Podgrze and the healing process of the
city itself as it reconciles one of the most painful chapters
of its history. A must-visit, this is one of the most fascinat-
ing museums in the entire country and we recommend you
reserve at least two hours if you want to see everything.
Note that visiting groups need to book in advance using the
museum website. To get there take a tram to Pl. Bohaterw
Getta (J-4) and its a 5-10 minute walk down ul. Kcik, under
the train overpass, onto ul. Lipowa and youre there. Q Open
10:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 16:00. Last entrance 90 minutes
before closing. Admission 19/16z, family ticket 50z. Guided
tours in English for groups of over 15 people, 150z. Mon free
for permanent exhibitions.
Places of Interest
Fort Benedict K-5, Lasota Hill. The onl y surviving
fortress of three that were built in Podgrze in the mid-19th
century to protect the Vistula river and the road to Lww,
Fort Benedict is one of only a few citadels of the Maximillion
Tower type left anywhere. An impressive two-storey brick
artillery tower in the shape of a sixteen-sided polygon with
a round interior yard, the fort has a total surface area of
1500 square metres. Atop the Krzemionki cliffs on Lasota
Hill, it takes its name from nearby St. Benedicts church.
The fortress quickly lost its usefulness in the 1890s and
has since been used as Austrian military barracks and
was even converted into apartments in the 1950s, though
today it lies in general dereliction, filled with abandonned
furniture and building materials. After numerous projects
involving the fort failed to develop, care of Fort Benedict has
recently been transferred back to the city of Krakw, with
plans for its renovation awaiting approval. At the moment,
however, it remains impenetrable to tourists, adding to the
scenery and mystique of one of Krakws most surprising
and strange corners.
Old Podgrze Cemetery (Stary Cmentarz Podgr-
ski) K-5, Corner of ul. Limanowskiego and ul. Pow-
stancw Wielopolskich. Podgrzes primary necropolis
for over a hundred years, the Old Podgrze Cemetery is/was
the resting place of the formerly independent citys most
Krakus Mound (Ko-
piec Krakusa) K-5,
above ul. Maryews-
kiego. The oldest struc-
ture in Krakw, Krakus
Mound i s one of two
prehistoric monumental
mounds in the city and
is also its highest point,
providing incredible panoramic views from its worn sum-
mit. Sixteen metres high, sixty metres wide at the base
and eight metres wide at the top, Kopiec Krakusa stands
in scruffy contrast to the manicured modern mounds
elsewhere in the city, with a muddy path winding around
to a bald peak. The site of pagan ritual for centuries,
the mound retains an ancient, evocative atmosphere
amplified by the surroundings of the cliffs of Krzemionki,
the green rolling fields of Paszw, the grim Liban quarry
and the Podgrze cemetery. With incredible views of the
city, Krakus Mound lies at the centre of one of Krakws
least explored and most captivating areas and should be
visited by anyone looking to take a rewarding detour from
the beaten path. It can be approached most easily from
the major intersection of al. Powstacw Wielopolskich
and ul. Wielicka via ul. Robotnicza to the steps of al. Pod
Kopcem (K-5), or by following ul. Dembowskiego (J-5) to
the pedestrian bridge over al. Powstacw Wielopolskich
to the base of the mound.
The result of great human effort and innovative engineer-
ing, Krakus Mound has long been a source of legend and
mystery. Connected with the popular story of Krakws
mythical founder, King Krak or Krakus, the mound is said
to have been constructed in honour of his death when
noblemen and peasants filled their sleeves with sand and
dirt, bringing it to this site in order to create an artificial
mountain that would rule over the rest of the landscape.
In the interwar period, extensive archaeological studies
were undertaken to try to date the mound and verify if
there was truth to the legend that Krak was buried be-
neath it. Though much about the ingenuity of the mounds
prehistoric engineers was revealed, no trace of a grave
was found, however excavations were not completely
comprehensive. A bronze belt was unearthed in the
lower part of the mound and dated to the 8th century,
and there is general agreement today that the mound
was created by a Slavonic colony sometime between the
latter half of the 7th century and the early 10th century,
though other hypotheses credit the structure to the
Celts. Originally there were four smaller mounds around
the base of Kraks mound, however these were levelled
in the mid-19th century during the construction of the
citys first fortress which surrounded the area with a wall
embankment and a moat (later levelled in 1954). The
location of the Krakus Mound and the Wanda Mound in
Mogia (T-4) - the citys other, lesser prehistoric earth-
work - hardly seems accidental. In addition to being an
ideal vantage point over the surrounding valleys, when
standing on the Krakus Mound at dawn on June 20th or
21st the sun can be seen rising directly behind Wandas
Mound; conversely, standing on Wandas Mound at dusk,
the sun sets in a straight line behind Kraks Mound. The
legend of Kraks mound inspired the modern creation of
burial mounds for Kociuszko and Pisudski and today
they remain one of Polands greatest archaeological
mysteries.
Krakus Mound
BAL CAFE
breakfast
lunch
cake
wine
coffee
ul. lusarska 9
at the back of MOCAK
entrance from the Przemysowa street
www.facebook.com/balnazablociu
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98
from Rynek Podgrski on ul. Limanowskiego (J-4), another
on the east end of ul. Limanowskiego near its intersection
with ul. Rkawka and ul. Lwowska (K-4), a third close by at
the intersection of ul. Lwowska and ul. Jzefiska (K-4), and
another at Plac Zgody (today known as Plac Bohaterw
Getta, J-4). A tram initially ran through the ghetto, and though
it made no stops, food and other valuable commodities
frequently found their way into the ghetto via its windows.
Many Jewish institutions were transferred into the ghetto,
and several non-Jewish businesses continued to operate,
most notably Tadeusz Pankiewiczs Apteka Pod Orem
on Plac Zgody (J-4). Many Jews also worked outside the
ghetto, particularly in the Zabocie industrial district, which
included Oskar Schindlers enamelware factory at ul.
Lipowa 4 (K-4).
Deportations
Following an October 15th, 1941 decree requiring all Jews
of the Krakw region - not just the city centre - to move to
the Podgrze Ghetto, a further 6,000 Jews from villages
around Maopolska entered the ghetto, making conditions
unbearable. To alleviate the distress Nazi authorities happily
announced that they would begin deportations, and 1000
people - mostly elderly and unemployed -were loaded into
cattle cars and sent to Kielce, where they were expected to
find aid from local Jewish authorities. Not knowing what else
to do, many of them actually returned clandestinely to their
families in the Krakw Ghetto.
JEWISH GHETTO PODGRZE
distinguished citizens. Established in the late 18th century,
the cemeterys grand arched gateway is set back from a busy
intersection on a hill behind the iconic sculpture of God the
Father. Unfortunately, with the exception of a few, many of
the most notable graves have been lost during the boneyards
turbulent history. Crossing the stone entry, the first grave on
the right is the resting place of Edward Dembowski - leader
of the 1846 Krakw Uprising, laid to rest here in a collective
grave with 28 insurgents shot by the Austrian Army; nearby
is the Bednarski family vault, where Wojciech - founder of
Podgos most beautiful park - reposes. Closed upon reach-
ing capacity in 1900, the Germans levelled a third of the
cemetery during WWII while building a railway. Even more
grievous was the sites reduction to a fraction of its original
size during the construction of al. Powstacw Wielopolskich
in the 1970s, when almost all the graves were destroyed or
strewn haphazardly about. Like much of the district today,
the cemeterys charm lies in the nostalgic character of its
general neglect and vanishing beauty. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00.
Ghetto Wall Fragments K-5, ul. Limanowskiego 69.
An even longer and arguably more evocative section of the
original ghetto wall can be seen in the playground behind
the primary school at ul. Limanowskiego 62. Those looking
to continue their creepy tour of the area should climb the
steep trail leading from the back of the playground straight
up to the Old Podgrze Cemetery, to the right from which is
the abandoned Fort Benedict.
Ghetto Wall Fragments K- 4, ul. Lwowska 25-29.
Krakws most prominent evidence of its ghetto is this 12-metre
stretch of the original ghetto wall. In 1983, a commemorative
plaque was raised, which reads in Hebrew and Polish: Here they
lived, suffered and died at the hands of the German torturers.
From here they began their final journey to the death camps.
Starmach Gallery (Former Zucher Synagogue)
J-4, ul. Wgierska 5, tel. (+48) 12 656 43 17, www.
starmach.eu. Built between 1879-1881, this unique brick
building was one of four former prayer houses within the area
of the ghetto, the others being located at numbers 6 and 7 on
the very same street and nearby at ul. Krakusa 7. Religious
practise was outlawed by the Germans during the war (though
it continued in secret) and the synagogue was converted
into a warehouse and then a factory. When the ghetto was
established, many valuable religious artefacts from Kazimierz
synagogues were transferred here for protection, however the
eventual liquidation of the ghetto guaranteed that they were
looted and lost. After the war the building slowly fell into der-
eliction until Andrzej and Teresa Starmach rescued it in 1996,
restoring the facade and turning it into one of the largest and
most renowned private art galleries in PL. The exhibitions are
always outstanding and a visit is highly recommended. QOpen
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Plac Bohaterw Getta (Plac Zgody) (Ghetto
Heroes Square) J-4. First plotted out in 1836, this
public square just across the river from the Powstacw
lskich bridge has had a turbulent history, with turns
as a marketplace, horse stable, execution site, taxi rank
and bus terminal over the years. During the time of the
Krakw Ghetto it was at once the source of the residents
greatest relief and also the scene of their greatest hor-
rors and humiliation. As the ghettos largest open space,
Plac Zgody was a place for people to socialise, relax and
escape the oppressive overcrowding of the tenements.
It was also the site of families being torn apart, mass
deportations to the death camps, beatings and execu-
tions. Following deportations and the final liquidation
of the ghetto, Plac Zgody was strewn with furniture,
clothes, luggage and other belongings that the victims
had been forced to abandon - this image would later
inspire the redesign of the square. Though after the war
the name of Plac Zgody was changed to Plac Bohaterw
Getta (Ghetto Heroes Square) and a small monument
was erected, the spaces historical significance never
felt more pertinent than its post-war use as a public
toilet or parking lot. Finally, after decades of neglect,
Plac Bohaterw Getta was renovated in 2005, sparking
significant controversy over the design. Nonetheless,
today it is perhaps the most iconic place in Podgrze.
Laid out with 70 large well-spaced metal chairs meant
to symbolise departure, as well as subsequent absence,
the entire square has essentially been turned into an
evocative memorial to the victims of the Krakw Ghetto.
A place for candles and reflection was also added within
the small, former bus terminal building at the north end
of the square, however it still goes sadly ignored (see if
you can do something about that).
During the war, Plac Bohaterw Getta 6 was the regular
meeting point of the Jewish Combat Organisation
(OB), as noted by a plaque on the front of the building.
Krakws Jewish underground resistance orchestrated
acts of sabotage outside the ghetto, with their greatest
success coming in December 1942 when a grenade
detonated inside the Cyganeria Caf a popular meet-
ing place for Nazi officers on ul. Szpitalnia - killing and
wounding several Germans. Plac Bohaterw Getta
18 - on the south side of the square at the corner of ul.
Targowa was the site of Pankiewiczs famous Apteka
Pod Orem, now a branch of the Krakw History Museum
with exhibits depicting life in the ghetto. Every year on
the Sunday following the March 14th liquidation of the
ghetto, a remembrance parade honouring the victims
sets off from Plac Bohaterw Getta to the Holocaust
monument on the site of the former Paszw camp.
Plac Bohaterw Getta
Phar macy Under
the Eagle (Apteka
Pod Orem) J- 4, Pl.
Bohaterw Getta 18,
tel. (+48) 12 656 56
25, www.mhk.pl. When
the Nazis created the Jew-
ish ghetto in Podgrze in
1941, this pharmacy on Pl. Bohaterw Getta and its
Polish owner Tadeusz Pankiewicz found themselves at
the very heart of it. Deciding to stay, Pankiewicz and his
staff were the only Poles allowed to live and work in the
ghetto and over the two years of the ghettos existence,
Apteka Pod Orem became an important centre of social
life as well as aid in acquiring food and medicine, falsi-
fied documents and avoiding deportations. Pankiewicz
(recognised today as one of the Righteous Among the
Nations) and his staff risked their lives in many clan-
destine operations while bearing witness to tragedy
through the windows of the pharmacy as the ghetto
and its 15,000 inhabitants were ultimately liquidated.
Today the building is a branch of the Krakw Historical
Museum, recreated to look as it did during Nazi occupa-
tion, which through traditional and multimedia displays,
and extensive testimonials from both Poles and Jews,
heartrendingly describes life in the Krakw Ghetto. In-
formation is displayed inside the chests and cupboards
of the pharmacy, and visitors are encouraged to handle
dozens of replica artefacts and reprinted photographs,
heightening the reality of the events described and creat-
ing a very intimate visiting experience. Though compris-
ing only 5 rooms, set aside at least an hour for visiting
this excellent museum. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Mon
10:00 - 14:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before clos-
ing. Admission 10/8z, family ticket 20z, Mon free. Y
Pharmacy Under the Eagle
Zygmunt Put/Wikipedia/CC-BY-SA 3.0
Krakw has always been regarded as the cultural centre of
Poland, and before World War II it was likewise an important
cultural centre for approximately 65,000 Jews - one quarter
of the citys total population - who enjoyed the citys relatively
tolerant climate. Persecution of the Jewish community began
almost immediately following German occupation in early
September 1939, however. Despite an increasing series of
regulations restricting the civil rights and personal freedom
of Jews, more and more were arriving in Krakw from the rest
of PL in the hope of finding safety amidst the citys dense
community. In October 1939, the Nazis registered 68,482
Jews in Krakw.
Conditions continued to worsen, however, and in April 1940,
Hans Frank - Nazi commander of the General Government
(the part of German-occupied PL that was not directl y
incorporated into Germany) - ordered the resettlement of
Krakws Jews, in keeping with his desire for the capital of
the General Government to be a Jew-free city. As a result
of resettlement in late 1940, Krakws Jewish population
was reduced to the 16,000 deemed necessary to maintain
the economy at the time, with the 52,000-odd others forcibly
deported, largely to labour camps in the east.
Establishment
On March 3rd, 1941 Otto Wchter, Governor of the Krakw
district, decreed the establishment of a new Jewish Housing
District on the right bank of the Wisa River in the district
of Podgrze. What would become known as the Krakw or
Podgrze Ghetto initially comprised an approximately 20
hectare (50 acre) space of some 320 mostly one- and two-
story buildings in Podgrzes historic centre bound by the river
and the Krzemionki hills to the north and south, and between
the Krakw-Paszw rail line and Podgrzes market square
to the east and west. In the 17 days between the ghettos es-
tablishment and the March 20, 1941 resettlement deadline,
approximately 3,000 original residents of the district were
relocated across the river to be replaced by some 16,000
Jews, whose property and possessions were confiscated
with the exception of what they could carry into the ghetto.
Thousands of unregistered Jews also illegally entered the
ghetto seeking protection, bringing the total population of
the Krakw Ghetto to about 18,000.
Overcrowding was an obvious problem with one apartment
allocated for every four families and an average of two square
metres of living space per person. Windows facing Aryan
Podgrze were bricked or boarded up to prevent contact
with the outside world and a 3 metre high wall was erected
around the confines of the ghetto, crowned with arches con-
scientiously designed to resemble Jewish tombstones. Four
guarded entrance gates accessed the ghetto - the main gate
Main gate into the ghetto from Rynek Podgrski, 1941
Fragments of the ghetto wall at the playground on ul.
Limanowskiego.
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PASZW JEWISH GHETTO
Its hard to go anywhere in Poland without being reminded of
one of the darkest chapters in the history of humanity, and
Krakw, for all of its beautiful and intoxicating diversions,
really shouldnt be any different. While hundreds of tourists
use Krakw as a jumping-off point for visiting Auschwitz-
Birkenau, few seem to realise that Krakw actually has a
former concentration camp in its own backyard. Across
the river, deep in Podgrze, a large the tract of land goes
undeveloped and largely unvisited, despite being in one of
the citys most desirable commercial and residential areas -
alongside a major thoroughfare (ul. Wielicka), across from the
citys largest shopping mall (Bonarka City Centre) and a short
walk from a major tourist attraction (Krakus Mound), no less.
This is the former site of the Plaszw concentration camp,
today an expansive field of uneven terrain covered in grass,
weeds, stones and a story that is hardly broached upon its
own hallowed grounds. If you think you arent familiar with it,
well actually, you are. It was here that the real-life events of
one of the most well-known Holocaust stories - brought into
popular consciousness by Steven Spielbergs blockbuster
film Schindlers List - took place. When Schindlers enamel
factory (K-4) opened to the public as a museum in 2010 it
gave the city a place to tell that story and address its own
history under Nazi occupation. The site of the former Paszw
concentration camp itsel f, however, remains largely as it
was when the Nazis abandoned it close to 70 years ago. In
contrast to Auschwitz there are no professional tour guides
here, no informative displays, no hand holding, no sugges-
tions on how to experience the space - simply a poorly
sign-posted place of reflection. A challenge to access even
on foot, those intrepid enough to make the journey will find
few places of interest aside from a couple buildings that hide
their history, a few memorials and an impressive monument
to the victims who perished here. In that sense Paszw is
more of a pilgrimage than a destination, and rewards those
who walk its obscure paths with the opportunity to engage
the past without any pressure or pretence. This is the most
horrific place in Krakw; and the most peaceful.
History
Before World War II Krakw was home to some 65,000 Jews,
who under Nazi occupation beginning in September 1939
faced almost immediate persecution. Under the directive
of Nazi commander Hans Frank, resettlement (largely to
labour camps in the east) began in late 1940 and by the time
of the establishment of the Krakw Ghetto in March 1941,
their numbers had been reduced to some 16,000 individu-
als crammed into a 20 hectare (50 acre) space in Podgrze,
across the river from the Jewish district of Kazimierz (for
more on the Krakw Ghetto see our online feature). In early
1942 the Nazis began to initiate Hitlers Final Solution for
the annihilation of European Jewry, ramping up terror in the
Krakw Ghetto with increased round-ups, deportations and
street executions that resulted in the gradual reduction of
the size and population of the ghetto.
At the same time, the building of the Paszw camp (which
would precipitate the ghettos liquidation) was underway on
the other side of the Krzemionki hills which overlooked the
ghetto. Only four kilometres from Krakws market square,
the site was chosen for its proximity to a handy railroad sta-
tion, existing labour camp in the nearby quarry (see Liban,
Podgrze Sightseeing) and its convenient location on top of
two Jewish cemeteries - the old Jewish cemetery at ul. Jero-
zolimska 25, and new Jewish cemetery at ul. Abrahama 3, the
latter of which had just been established ten years prior and
included an absolutely immaculate two wing pre-burial hall
with three cupolas. This monumental building was retained
and used by the Germans as a horse stable and pigsty
throughout the life of the camp, however both cemeteries
were levelled with the shattered tombstones used to cobble
the lanes of the camp and whole tombstones used as pavers
to create the main road. This was a typical Nazi practise for
further humiliating their victims.
First established as a forced labour camp in the summer of
1942, Paszw soon became a favoured execution site for
the Nazis as cattle cars full of children, the elderly and infirm
were sent from the ghetto only to be systematically murdered
and fill mass graves at the camp. Built with the sweat of
slave labour, from autumn 1942 all those deemed fit to
work commuted every day from the ghetto to participate
in the construction of their future prison and from January
1943 many no longer returned to the ghetto, but stayed in
the unfinished camp barracks. When Amon Goeth arrived
to take over as Paszw camp commandant he wasted little
time, speeding construction of the camp and liquidating the
Krakw Ghetto only a month later. On March 13th and 14th,
1943, some 6,000 Jews (some accounts claim as many as
8,000) were permanently transported from the ghetto to
Paszw; 3,000 were sent by cattle car directly to the gas
chambers of Auschwitz-Birkenau and some 1,000-2,000
(accounts vary) others were shot in the street, their bodies
later transported to Paszw and buried in mass graves.
After Goeths arrival, and coinciding with the organised
implementation of the camp system across Eastern Europe,
Paszw developed rapidly, becoming a destination for many
Jews and political prisoners from southern Poland and
beyond. Conditions were abysmal; following the liquidation
of the Krakw Ghetto the average barracks contained 150
inmates in a space of about 80 metres, and by the summer
of 1943 the number of inmates had ballooned from a mere
Due to its size and the fact that there is no prescribed
route, there are several ways to get to the territory of
the former Paszw camp. If you have a car you can drive
around to the southern side of the camp and park on the
side of the road across from Castorama on ul. Henryka
Kamienskiego within view of the Memorial of Torn-Out
Hearts. It is also possible to park on the eastern side by
driving up ul. Wielicka, turning right onto ul. Jerozolimska
(K-5) and parking near the Grey House.
Without a car, the most straight-forward approach is
to take tram numbers 3, 6, 9, 13, 23, 24, 50 or 69 and
get off at the Cmentarz Podgrski stop. Walk a couple
blocks down ul. Wielicka in the same direction the tram
was travelling and make a right onto ul. Jerozolimska
(K-5). This will take you to the Grey House on the east
side of the camp (10mins total).
Getting There
Paszw concentration camp at its height in 1944.
Following the Wannsee Conference in January 1942, the
Nazis began to initiate The Final Solution - Hitlers systematic
plan for the annihilation of European Jewry. May 29th 1942
was the first of ten days of terror within the Krakw Ghetto
as it was surrounded by Nazi troops and all documents were
inspected. Those who couldnt produce proper work permits
were assembled on Plac Zgody before being transferred to
Paszw rail station, loaded into cattle cars in groups of 120,
and sent to Beec death camp in eastern PL. Unsatisfied by
the initial numbers, the Germans continued their arbitrary
round-ups for days. One June 6th all previous documents
were declared invalid and ghetto occupants were required
to apply for a new Blauschein or Blue Pass; those that were
denied likewise met their deaths in Beec, including popular
poet and songwriter Mordechai Gebirtig and renowned painter
Abraham Neuman. By the end of the action, 7,000 Jews had
been sent to their deaths, and many more simply shot in the
streets. Two weeks later the area of the ghetto was reduced
almost by half to the north side of ul. Limanowskiego and
demarcated by barbed wire. The increased density of the
population and increasing brutality of the Germans set off
a wave of suicides, but worse was to come. Work was also
beginning on the nearby Paszw labour camp, which would
eventually portend the end of the ghetto.
In October the Germans announced that the ghetto would
be consolidated again and selections began anew, with no
regard toward employment status, age or health. Sources
di ffer on the exact numbers, but at least another 4,500
victims were sent to Beec and some 600 were shot inside
the ghetto. Many children, orphans and sick people were
sent to the newly established Paszw labour camp, only to
be murdered. Afterwards the area east of Plac Zgody ceased
to be part of the ghetto, and a month later the remaining ter-
ritory was divided into two sections: Ghetto A was reserved
for the healthiest, most able-bodied residents, and Ghetto
B for those less desirable and destined for deportation.
Residents of Ghetto A began commuting daily to work on the
construction of Paszw labour camp, and after Amon Goeth
arrived in Krakw as its new Camp Commandant the pace
of the camps development hastened the ghettos demise.
Liquidation
As soon as enough barracks had been built, Goeth ordered
that the inhabitants of Ghetto A permanently relocate to
Paszw, and on March 13th 1943 local SS Commander
Julian Scherner ordered the final liquidation of the Krakw
Ghetto. Carried out in two phases, at least 6,000 Jews (some
sources cite up to 8,000) from Ghetto A were immediately
transported to Paszw; residents of Ghetto B and all children
under 14 were ordered to assemble on Plac Zgody the next
day. Despite likely knowing what lay in store, many mothers
stayed behind when Ghetto A was liquidated, refusing to
abandon their children.
March 14th 1943 was likely the bloodiest day in Podgrzes
history. The ghetto - which at that point essentially consisted
of only Plac Zgody and the block of buildings just south of
it - was surrounded by German troops who attempted to herd
its residents to the transports leaving from the square. Chaos
reigned and those who resisted or attempted to escape were
shot. Over 1,000 people were killed in the streets (some
estimates are as high as 2,000) and the 3,000 that left
via cattle car went almost directly to the gas chambers in
Auschwitz. After this final deportation, the Germans cleaned
their mess, looting the houses, stripping the luggage strewn
everywhere of anything valuable, and taking down all the
barbed wire. The Krakw Ghetto disappeared leaving almost
as little trace as the Jews who lived there.
Liban Quarry J/K-5, ul. Za Torem. One of the creepi-
est, most forgotten places in Krakw, the Liban Quarry
should first and foremost be a place of remembrance for
the victims of the Nazi labour camp that operated here
during Krakws WWII occupation. That said, the sight lies
in overgrown abandon today, slowly becoming a nature
sanctuary for waterfowl, birds of prey, pheasants and
other various creatures (weve even seen an unattended
horse grazing here) as the city seems to have forgotten it
completely. Incredible limestone cliffs, ponds and dense
vegetation are as breath-taking as the rusting refinery
equipment, fenceposts, gravestones and tangles of
barbed wire that can still be found amongst the brush here.
The limestone company Liban and Ehrenpreis, run by
two well-known Jewish industrial families from Podgrze,
established a quarry here in 1873. By the end of the 19th
century a complex of buildings was established within
the quarry and a railway line laid as the families enjoyed
an excellent reputation locally and abroad. However,
during Nazi occupation, Liban was set-up as a cruel
penal camp where 800 young Poles were kept prisoner
from 1942 to 1944 performing forced labour. A small,
discreet, overgrown and easily overlooked memorial for
21 inmates executed during the liquidation of the camp
lies beside the cliffside at the Za Torem end of the site.
In 1993 Steven Spielberg used Liban as the set of all
the scenes from Schindlers List that take place in the
Paszw concentration camp. Not wanting to use the
nearby site of the camp itself out of respect, it must
have taken little imagination on his part to settle upon
Liban. During filming 34 barracks and watchtowers were
set-up around the quarry, and though most of the set was
subsequently removed, some traces remain confusingly
mixed with the genuine historical leftovers from the war,
making it unclear just how uncomfortable you should feel
as you walk amongst the many gallows-like fenceposts
strung with barbed wire and rusty machinery. Certainly,
the most disturbing site is the central pathway paved
with Jewish headstones, which we can put you at ease
by assuring you is not genuine. An incredibly evocative,
yet peaceful and beautiful site, Liban allows you to ex-
plore Krakws World War II history on your own terms,
interpreting it as you like without the hand-holding of
history books or tourist bureaus. Enter the quarry at your
own risk by following a trail from Kraks Mound toward
Podgrze cemetery along the rim of and into the quarry,
or try your luck from ul. Za Torem; though there is noth-
ing unlawful about being in the quarry, city employees
of the Housing Office buildings at the quarrys entrance
have been known to aggravatedly deny entry or ask
people to leave.
Liban Quarry
Allie_Caulfield
102 103
PASZW PASZW
2,000 before the liquidation to over 12,000. At the camps
height in 1944 it is estimated that there were 25,000
prisoners interred within the camp, which covered some
81 hectares (200 acres) surrounded by four kilometres of
electrified barbed wire. Twelve watchtowers equipped with
machine guns and spotlights guarded the camp.
As the camp expanded, separate living quarters were estab-
lished for the men and women, Poles and Jews, as well as an
administrative sector for the SS officers. Other features of
the camp included a large roll call square, hospital, mess hall,
isolation cells, stables, bathhouse, bakery and the various
workshops where inmates worked extremely long hours without
rest or enough food to stave off starvation. In addition to the
many on-site workshops, inmates also provided free labour to
several local factories, Oskar Schindlers enamelware factory
in Podgrze among them. Slave labour or not, having such a job
(which provided a small amount of security to many Jews who
were quite skilled) was certainly preferable to not having one,
and immensely better than working in one of the two limestone
quarries located at Plaszw, which was essentially a death
sentence. Many women were also employed in the quarries,
hauling carts of stone along the rail lines that had been laid within
the camp; the average life expectancy for quarry workers was a
mere matter of weeks. Prisoners also faced death from disease
(typhus and malaria were rampant in the camp), starvation, and
the cruelty of their captors. The Paszw camp and its staff, led
by Amon Goeth who took pleasure in arbitrarily murdering the in-
mates, made themselves famous for their sadistic treatment of
the camps prisoners. Personal accounts from Paszw portray
Goeth as a mass murderer instructing his staff to make sport
out of the suffering and execution of the inmates.
From January 1944, Paszw was officially designated as an
independent concentration camp with satellite camps estab-
lished in Wieliczka and Mielec. Jews from smaller camps and
ghettos that were being liquidated across Poland, Czechoslo-
vakia, Hungary and Romania were sent to Paszw, however
many of them never made it inside the camp. Covered trans-
port trucks full of Jews arrived several times a week and were
taken directly to one of two mass execution sites where the
condemned were shot, thrown into a mass grave and covered
in dirt, layer upon layer. Plans to install a crematorium at the
camp were drawn but never developed, with the efficiency of
Auschwitz-Birkenau in this regard - to which many transports
from Paszw were sent - likely being a factor.
Calculating the number of people who lost their lives at
the camp is impossible; a rough estimate of the number of
prisoners interred here over its short history would be in the
neighbourhood of 150,000, but Nazi records fail to give us
anything more than a speculative guess. Liquidation of the
camp began in early January 1945, with the last prisoners
leaving on death marches to Auschwitz; those who reached
it were killed in the gas chambers immediately upon arrival.
As the Soviet Army approached Krakw the camp was
completely dismantled (including the Jewish pre-burial hall),
the primary mass graves were exhumed, the bodies burned
and the ashes spread over the site. What the Soviets saw
upon arrival largely resembles what visitors will see when
visiting the former grounds of the camp today - a barren field.
Approximately 2,000 Poles and Jews who passed through
Paszw are known to have survived the war; 1,000 of these
were the Schindler Jews who escaped from Krakw to
Brunnlitz before the wars end.
What To See
Today almost nothing remains of the complex and sprawl-
ing concentration camp, which covered over 80 hectares in
Paszw - today a district of Podgrze. In comparison to other
Nazi prison camps, Paszw was extremely well dismantled
and has since been the subject of almost no historical ex-
cavations or on-site documentation. Those private homes
which were commandeered by the Nazis and incorporated
into the camp were returned to their owners after the war
and today sit on the fringes of the former camp as inauspi-
ciously as any other house in the area. On one part of the
former camp grounds an apartment block has been built.
As a result it is very difficult to imagine what the camp may
have looked like during the war. Visitors are left to their own
imaginations and private thoughts while walking through the
grounds, keeping their eyes peeled for traces of the past
and the few monuments scattered about. Though difficult
to find (without our help), several points of interest do exist,
and we encourage visitors to make the walk from the north
side of the camp to the large, easily visible monument to its
victims on the southern side, taking in as many of these sites
as possible en route. As you do, of course, bear in mind that
though the area looks like nothing more than a neglected
public park, this is actually a sacred place of remembrance.
In addition to whatever remains exist from the two Jewish
cemeteries once located on this site, it is estimated that the
remains of 8,000-10,000 Paszw prisoners are still located
within the immediate area of the camp grounds. As a few
obscure signs (the only evidence of city acknowledgement of
the camp, aside from a few monuments) near the edges of
the former camp clearly state: Please respect the grievous
history of this site.
The North End of the Camp
If we approach the camp from ul. Jerozolimska (K-5, see
Getting There), we have the greatest chance of seeing the
most points of interest. This was also the main entrance into
the camp, leading as it does from near the Krakw-Paszw
train station (L-5) to some of the limestone deposits the in-
mates were forced to quarry. At the corner of ul. Jerozolimska
and ul. Abrahama (which turns from a paved road between
the apartments blocks into a dirt trail leading into the camp)
we can feel that we are now inside the former camp, and a
sign across the road tells us as much. On this corner at ul.
Jerozolimska 3 stands the infamous Grey House, used as
a prison and torture chamber by the SS during the camps
existence. Turning right onto ul. Abrahama, which once ran
through the middle of the camp, youll find a small monu-
ment only about 20 metres from the Grey House. Though
not directly related to the camp (which was yet to be built),
this memorial remembers the site where 13 Poles were
murdered by the Nazis on September 10th, 1939 - the first
mass execution of WWII in Krakw. Across the path to the
left we may be able to see the camps limestone deposits
and even find the entrances to three anti-aircraft shelters
carved into the rock by prisoners. A recently paved path to
the right leads to another monument close behind Grey
House, this one with a roof to protect it, and also not related
to the camp (notice the trend), but to the Jewish Cemetery
that formerly stood here. This new tombstone marks the
burial place of Sara Schenirer, founder of the Beth Jacob
School - the first religious school for girls in Krakw (1917),
which became a model for Jewish schools all over Poland in
her time (over 300 before she died in 1935), and for many
schools in Israel, the US and elsewhere today.
Following the worn footpath straight back from here (away
from ul. Abrahama), about 25 metres away is a grove of trees
where close inspection reveals extensive piles of concrete
rubble that were once the Podgrze Jewish Cemeterys mag-
nificent pre-burial hall. Built in 1932, part of the hall was
detonated by Goeth to amuse his company one night, while
the rest was dismantled at the end of the war. Amazingly,
there is still one surviving tombstone from the Podgrze
Jewish Cemetery, and those determined to find it can at-
tempt to do so, but it isnt easy. Head left/due west from
the ruins of the pre-burial hall until you get beyond the trees.
Keep going another 15 metres from there and you should be
able to pick up a trail heading north (to your right) that will
take you directly to the site of the only other visible evidence
of the forgotten Jewish cemetery (about 30 metres). Chaim
Jakub Abrahamer, laid to rest in 1932, has the distinction of
the only surviving headstone, surrounded by the anonymous
foundations of other graves. Turn around and you can follow
this faint trail all the way back to the Grey House.
The South End of the Camp
From the intersection where the Grey House stands, we
now cross ul. Abrahama and continue up ul. Heltmana (the
continuation of ul. Jerozolimska). This residential street was
known as SS-strasse during the war for it was here that the
Nazi officers lived, including camp commandant Amon Goeth
at number 22, known as the Red House. You can see the
back of the house by making a detour onto ul. Lecha, and if
we follow it to the end and make a left onto the dirt trail there
it will lead us to Hujowa Grka. One of the camps mass
execution sites, it was here that the Nazis later exhumed the
bodies of 10,000 Jews and burned them to hide their crimes.
The name is a vulgar bit of Polish word play taken from the
name of the SS officer who ordered the first executions here
(Albert Hujar) and the Polish word for the male member; a
print-friendly translation would be Pricks Hill. Today the site
is marked by a modest wooden cross with a crown of thorns,
surrounded by a few benches.
From here you can see the large stone monument, which
stands atop Paszws other main execution yard. Towering
over not only the camp, but also the highway towards which
it unfortunately faces, this monolithic Soviet-era monument
is known as the Memorial of Torn-Out Hearts. Designed
by Witold Cckiewicz and unveiled in 1964, the inscription
reads, To the memory of the martyrs murdered by the Nazi
perpetrators of genocide in the years 1943-45. Near its
base are two other monuments: to the left, a low-lying plaque
remembering the Hungarian Jewish women processed
in Paszw on their way to Auschwitz; to the right, a stone
obelisk commemorating all the Jewish victims of the
camp. The last line of the long text reads, In memory of
those murdered, whose final scream of anguish is the silence
of this Paszw graveyard.
The Grey House Zygmunt Put, Wikipedia CC BY-SA 3.0
The Red House Zygmunt Put, Wikipedia CC BY-SA 3.0
Memorial of Torn-Out Hearts. Photo: Pawe Krzan, krzan.
pl, krakow4u.pl
Hujowa Grka Raduz, Wikipedia CC BY 3.0
105
104
OLD TOWN
SALWATOR SALWATOR
Being that Salwator has always been Krakws most green,
ancient and affluent district, its a bit of a wonder why more
people dont visit. Having done the hard but rewarding work
of researching this seldom written about area, however,
were happy to roll out the red carpet. Certainly the areas
main attraction is the stunning Kociuszko Mound and
surrounding forti fications, but the scenic ascent to the
mound is almost as pleasant as the earthwork itself and
makes a perfect escape from the sometimes frenetic bustle
of the city centre. Essentially comprising one long, virtually
traffic-less, tree-lined avenue flanked by ancient churches,
atmospheric cemeteries and grand villas - which begins at
the citys largest sacral complex and summits atop the citys
most magnificent overlook - Salwator should hold plenty of
enchantment for visitors.
What to See
A perfect warm-weather expedition, exploring Salwator
is more of a leisure activity than a sightseeing excursion,
with its appeal lying in strolling shady lanes and taking in
scenic views more than studying historical exhibits (though
theres the chance for that too). Picturesquely perched on
the western fringe of the city-centre, well-removed from the
tourist track, the small district of Salwator officially occupies
St. Bronisawas Hill in the district of Zwierzyniec, which rises
above the Old Town between the Wisa River and the Rudawa
- one of its tributaries. As such, a journey to Salwator starts
at their confluence and the majestic Norbertine Monastery
(G/H-4) - Krakws largest sacral complex. Consecrated way
back at the end of the 12th century, the Norbertine Sisters
of this immaculate convent were the first female religious
congregation in Poland and once held much sway and influ-
ence over the area. Until as recently as 1910, when Krakws
mayor snatched and incorporated the territory into the city
proper, the Sisters of St. Norbert owned the whole area of
Salwator and surrounding Zwierzyniec. Before that time the
Norbertine complex extended across ul. Kociuszko and, in
addition to the convents Church of St. Augustine and John
the Baptist, also included the two churches found at the foot
of St. Bronislawas Hill (on the street of the same name). On
the left side of ul. w. Bronisawy (G-3) stands the small and
unique Chapel of Saint Margaret, which is included on the
Maopolska Wooden Architecture Route, while on the right is
the hoary Church of the Holy Saviour.
Continue up ul. w. Bronisawy (as it turns into Al. Waszyn-
gtona) about 500 metres on the left and youll arrive at the
Salwator Cemetery - perhaps Krakws most picturesque
necropolis. However, as youre en route, dont miss taking
a quick look at the villas on ul. Gontyna (G-3) - a small
looping alley off the main lane. Though the name Salwator
has more recently been applied to much of the surrounding
district of Zwierzyniec (for marketing reasons), it originally
referred strictly to this small Garden City of 30 villas built
to much hullaballoo after a 1910 design competition. One
of Krakws most exclusive residential streets, ul. Gondyna
has been home to many local luminaries and celebrities, and
its villas are also no stranger to architecture textbooks. The
highlight of the bunch (for us at least) is the manor on the
right-hand crescent with a large bust of wild-haired Medusa
on the facade. Perhaps those penetrating eyes are the same
that filled Salwator Cemetery (G-3) with an unusually great
number of statues and stone effigies.
Continue up this avenue lined with ancient trees to where it
bears right and youre at the foot of the Kociuszko Mound
and fortifications (F-3), one of Krakws most unique at-
tractions. While youre at the top, take a turn away from the
Old Town for a moment and youll see the rolling expanse of
Wolski Forest (Las Wolski) with the Camaldolese Monastery
and Pisudski Mound peaking out of the trees to the west.
The road that lead you this far will also take you deep enough
to find these further Zwierzyniec sights, as well as Krakws
Zoo, but bear in mind that you could easily spend an additional
day just hiking throughout this scenic woodland.
Norbertine Monastery G/H-4, ul. Kociuszki 88, tel.
(+48) 12 427 13 18, www.norbertanki.w.krakow.pl.
Founded by the once-powerful Premonstratensian Sisters
of Saint Norberts in 1148, this fortified monastery has been
destroyed and rebuilt several times throughout the centuries,
seemingly irresistible to the marauding Tartar hordes whose
proficiency at razing architectural marvels has been well noted
by history. The structures seen today within the monasterys
many courtyards and high, crenulated walls were rebuilt at
the turn of the 17th century and the interiors date to the 18th
century. The baroque Church of St. Augustine and John the
Baptist (open during mass only) can be entered through the
13th century Romanesque portal beneath the tower or through
the outer courtyard. There have been two sisters canonised
from the Cracovian order of Norbertine Sisters, Saint Emilia
Podoska and Saint Bronisawa - renowned for her righteous-
ness. Some of Krakws most important traditions are also
connected with the monastery: here and along the banks of
the Rudawa the Emmaus festival has been celebrated every
year since the 12th century on the Monday after Easter (April
1st, 2013). It is also from here that the Lajkonik procession
- the foremost symbol of Krakw - sets off each year in June,
due no doubt to the convents magnetism towards Tartars.
Chapel of St. Margaret (Kaplica w. Magorzaty)
G-3, ul. w. Bronisawy 8, tel. (+48) 12 424 43 60, www.
parafiasalwator.pl. This unique octagonal chapel is one of
only three wooden temples left in Krakw. Originally built as
a cemetery chapel, throughout its long history it was burned
many times (wonder how that happened?) with its present
structure having been built in 1690. In ironic, yet typical, con-
trast to the pre-Slavic pagan god of the wind named Powist
who once stood at this site, today youll find a statue of Pope
John Paul II erected in 2008. The baroque 17th century altar
within the charming chapel was borrowed from the Church of
the Holy Saviour just across the street (G-3). Q Open during
mass only from April 7 to October when services are held on
the first and third Sundays of those months.
Church of the Holy Saviour
(Koci Naj witszego
Sal watora) G- 3, ul . w.
Bronisawy 9, www.parafiasal-
wator.pl. One of Krakws oldest
and most modestl y beauti ful
churches, the Church of the Holy
Savior stands atop a former early
Slavic temple. In fact, archaeolo-
gists have dated this site as far
back as the 10th century and
some have even posited that it
may be the first Catholic site in
all of Poland. First mentioned in writing back in 1148, you
might be familiar with its history since then: burned, rebuilt,
burned, rebuilt, burned, rebuilt in the 17th century as you see
it today. The age of the site can be most felt in the interior
which includes precious frescoes from the early 16th century.
Surrounding the church is a small, scenic cemetery, includ-
ing a wall-tomb for the Sisters who maintained it and an old
gravediggers cottage. Q Open during mass only.
Salwator Cemetery (Cmentarz Salwatorski) G-3,
Al. Waszyngtona 1. This intimate, hill-side graveyard was
ordained in 1865 and offers fantastic views of the Wisa.
Perhaps the sanctuarys most famous daisy-pusher is one
of its most recent tenants - popular sci-fi author Stanisaw
Lem, put to earth here in 2006. Q Open from dawn till dusk.
Kociuszko Mound (Kopiec
Kociuszki) F- 3, Al. Waszyn-
gtona 1, tel. (+48) 12 425 11 09,
www.kopieckosciuszki.pl. His-
tory produces few men like Tadeusz
Koci uszko (1746-1817). Havi ng
fought with distinction in the American
War of Independence before inspir-
ing a valiant Insurrection against
foreign rule in Poland, this relentless
freedom-fighter was described by
Thomas Jefferson as the pure a
son of liberty that I have ever known.
Upon his passing Polish authorities
demanded his body be sent from Switzerland to be interred
in the Wawel Royal Crypts. Such was the countrys love of
Kociuszko that the people proposed to honour him with a
monument in the tradition of the prehistoric mounds of King
Krak and Wanda - and to make it the grandest in Krakw. With
the approval of the Norbertine Sisters who granted the land,
city authorities began developing an artificial burial mound
to be constructed atop Bronisawa Hill in Zwierzyniec. When
construction began there was no lack of pomp and ceremony.
First mass was held, followed by speeches; documents, heir-
looms and artefacts from Kociuszkos illustrious life were
placed - as well as soil from his many battlefields, including
those in America - before friends, statesmen and foreign
dignitaries dumped the first wheelbarrows of dirt. For the next
three years people of all ages from all over Poland brought soil
from their homes and villages to add to the mound. Though a
committee was formed for its oversight, the work was all done
voluntarily. Officially completed in November 1823, Kociuszko
Mound stands 34 metres high, 326 metres above sea level.
A boulder from the Tatra Mountains, which on a clear day can
be seen on the horizon from the top of the mound, was placed
at the top with the inscription, Kociuszce (To Kociuszko).
In the 1850s the occupying Austrian military authorities took
over the territory of Zwierzyniec and went to building a brick
fortress encircling the Mound with intent to use the location as
a strategic lookout point. Demolishing a chapel of St. Bronisawa
at the site, the Austrians, in their gentility, built a new chapel,
incorporating it into the stronghold. Quite contrarily, the Ger-
mans later threatened to demolish the Mound and surrounding
fortifications during their WWII occupation as they set about
destroying all Polish monuments and national symbols (along
with 3 million Polish Jews). Though parts of the fortress were
destroyed, the Mound survived the war better than the countrys
population, 16% of which were casualties of Nazi and Soviet
bloodshed. Today the fortress has been rebuilt and significant
engineering improvements have been made to the Mound to
ensure its longevity, including a vital drainage system.
Climbing to the peak is exhausting work, but the panoramic views
of Krakw are a worthwhile reward. The neo-Gothic Chapel of
St. Bronisawa, which contains a medley of objects connected
to Kociuszkos life, can also be visited and the surrounding
fortifications also house two cafes, a radio station, restaurant,
wax museum and five additional historical exhibitions. Admis-
sion is included with the mound to all exhibits and the hours are
also the same, except for two exhibits: Cracovian Mounds, and
Kociuszko - The First Chapter (Open 09:30-16:00. From May
open 09:00-19:00) Q Mound open daily from 09:00 till dusk.
From May open 09:00 - 21:00, exhibitions 09:00 - 19:00. Last
entrance 30 minutes before closing Admission 11/9z.
Lying just west of the Old Town, Salwator is about a
twenty-five minute walk from the main market square
and can be easily accessed by taking trams 1, 2 or
6 to their terminus at the Salwator roundabout (H-3).
Alternatively, surefooted or cycling sightseers can follow
the recreational path along the Wisa River from Wawel
Castle to the Norbertine Monastery, where it ends at the
Rudawa tributary. Bear in mind that the path up Saint
Bronisawas Hill to Kociuszko Mound is a slight grade
1.6 kilometres in length and may be uncomfortable for
anyone awaiting a hip replacement. It is possible to drive
to the foot of the mound, but making the journey on foot
or by bike is certainly the recommended method for
those with fine weather who are feeling up to the task.
Getting There
As with most ancient Cracovian landmarks, there are
a fair few legends associated with the Norbertine Mon-
astery (G/H-4, ul. Kociuszki 88). The first is to do with
Saint Bronisawa herself, who after being visited by the
Holy Spirit and warned of an impending Tartar attack
(which back in those days was a bit like having the Lord
tell you that the sun was going to come up tomorrow),
managed to rally the Sisters to safety in the adjacent
hills which now bear her name. The monastery was of
course destroyed and Saint Bronisawa spent the rest
of her days mending the spirits of those sceptical of a
God that would send Tartars to burn their homes every
damn weekend. She died in 1259.
Another legend regards the Norbertine Cathedral bell
and its mournful, murky tone. Story goes that between
attacks by the Tartar hordes, a punishing storm struck
the area destroying a nearby ferry crossing. As the
Good Sisters lay dreaming of the swift new boat they
would soon put in the water, they were awoken by the
Tartar alarm (something like a cat being strangled) to
witness all the merchants of Zwierzyniec hastening to
the ferry crossing to escape the mounted brutes hot on
their heels. Finding no such ferry all the merchants were
skewered or drowned in the Wisa River, except for one
who could swim apparently. To honour his extinct people,
the lonely merchant commissioned a bell for the tower
of the Sisters ravaged monastery. After several failed
attempts to cast the bell, the bell-maker took his own life
ashamed of the crack that kept appearing on its surface.
Sans bell-maker, the Sisters accepted the flawed bell
interpreting it as a symbol of the fractured lives of those
it was meant to remember. Once erected atop the chapel
tower, the Tartars swiftly arrived to toss the bell into the
river (those jerks!). Legend claims that each year on St.
Johns Night (June 23rd) the sunken, beleaguered bell can
be heard tolling its Tartar-cursing chime until midnight
when the clock on the Market Square sounds.
Norbertine Legends
Komitet Kopca
Kociuszki
107
106
OLD TOWN
NOWA HUTA
The bastard child of a devastated post WWII Poland, the huge
Socialist Realist suburb of Nowa Huta is the direct antithesis
of everything cuddly Krakw is. Gargoyles and tourists? Not
here. The Orwellian settlement of Nowa Huta is one of only two
entirely pre-planned socialist realist cities ever built (the other
being Magnitogorsk in Russias Ural Mountains), and one of the
finest examples of deliberate social engineering in the world.
Funded by the Soviet Union, Nowa Huta swallowed up a huge
swathe of ideal agricultural land, and the ancient village of
Kocielniki (as well as parts of Mogia and Krzesawice) in an
attempt to create an in-your-face proletarian opponent to intel-
lectual, artsy-fartsy, fairytale Krakw. The decision to build NH
was rubber stamped on May 17, 1947 and over the next few
years construction of a model city for 100,000 people sprung up
at breakneck speed. Built to impress, Nowa Huta featured wide,
tree-lined avenues, parks, lakes and the officially sanctioned
architectural style of the time - Socialist Realism. Nowa Hutas
architects strove to construct the ideal city, with ironic inspira-
tion coming from the neighbourhood blocks built in 1920s New
York (that despicable western metropolis). Careful planning was
key, and the suburb was designed with efficient mutual control
in mind: wide streets would prevent the spread of fire and the
profusion of trees would easily soak up a nuclear blast, while
the layout was such that the city could easily be turned into a
fortress if it came under attack.
Somewhat sadly perhaps, the Utopian dream that was
Nowa Huta was never fully realized. A fearsome town hall
in the style of the renaissance halls found across Poland
was never built, nor was the theatre building across from
it and the ornamental architectural details planned for the
monumental buildings of Plac Centralny were never added.
However what was completed is very much worth the trip
for intrepid tourists willing to teleport themselves into a
completely different reality far from the cobbled kitsch of
Krakw; its as easy as a tramride.
What To See
Jump off a tram at Plac Centralny and find yourself at the
very nucleus of Nowa Huta. Dating from 1949, the Central
Square is a masterpiece of Soviet social planning, and the
brainchild of architect Tadeusz Ptaszycki. In another twist of
irony, this Soviet landmark which once bore Stalins name
was officially re-designated Ronald Reagan Square in 2004,
though speak to any local and youll still find it referred to as
Pl. Centralny. While this square serves as the focal point for
visitors, its the Steelworks (ul. Ujasek 1, T-2) that Nowa Huta
is known for, not to mention named after. As Poland rebuilt
itself from near complete destruction after WWII, steel was
of vital importance. Work began in April 1950, and by 1954
the first blast furnace was in operation. Employing some
40,000 people in its heyday the Steelworks - named for a
time after Lenin - were capable of producing seven million
tonnes of steel annually, and at one time boasted the largest
blast furnace in Europe. Such was its reputation that Fidel
Castro chose to visit the Steelworks rather than Krakws
Rynek on one state visit to Poland. Found on the end of al.
Solidarnoci the entrance to what is known as the Sendzimir
Steelworks has been given the full socialist makeover, with
two concrete monstrosities built to echo the fine old buildings
of Poland. Youll hear the natives referring to this architectural
masterstroke as the Vatican, poking fun at the grandeur it
was meant to emulate. Ironically, the Steelworks are even
more less accessible to tourists than the Vatican, so you can
give up any ideas of getting past the main gates.
Nowa Huta may have been designed to be a socialist show-
case city, but it soon became a hotbed of anti-communist
activity and played a huge part in the Solidarity strikes of
the early 1980s, preceded by the struggle for permission
to build the citys first church; though it took 28 years, The
Lords Ark (Koci Arka Pana) was finally consecrated
in 1977. While much of NH is the product of the last half
century, a true tour of the area reveals a number of trea-
sures of much older historical value. The most epitomising
example of a pre-steel age in the area has to be Wandas
Mound a mysterious prehistoric earthwork that proves the
areas settlement predates that of Krakws Old Town. The
quiet communities of Krzesawice and Mogia each hide
pristine examples of ancient Polish sacral architecture in
the wooden churches of St. John the Baptist and St.
Bartholomew. Artist Jan Matejko enjoyed Krzesawice so
much he used it as an artist retreat as his preserved period
manor house evidences. Mogia meanwhile harbours one
of the most cherished religious sites in Maopolska in the
Cistercian Monastery and its morbidly miraculous cross.
If youve more time to explore, a walking or cycling tour of
Mogias small back roads is akin to an open-air ethnographic
museum, just watch out for the German shepherds behind
every garden fence.
Churches
Chur ch of St . Bar -
tholomew R-5, ul. Klasz-
torna 11, www.mogila.cys-
tersi.pl. Founded by Krakw
bi shop I wo Odrow who
brought the Ci sterci ans to
Mogia from Silesia in 1222,
the present structure of this
outstanding wooden church
dates from 1466. As the Church
of St. Wenceslas across the
street was part of a monastic complex, St. Batholomews was
erected to accommodate the Catholic layman, one of whom -
master carpenter Maciej Mczka - put his name and completion
date on the door after building this enduring wooden treasure.
Exceptional for its three aisles - a rarity in wooden church
architecture - the 18th century belfry and beautiful domed
entrance gate have also been preserved. Getting inside can
sometimes be a challenge, but its still at least worth taking a
look at the exterior architecture. Mogia is easily accessed from
Plac Centralny via trams 10 and 16; get off at the Klasztorna
stop and its a short walk south. Q In April the interior can be
viewed on Sundays between services (vaguely 10:00-12:30),
and from May regular guided tours will be available, but no
further information was known at press time.
Church of St. John the Baptist S-2, ul. Wakowicza,
tel. 12 642 15 84. Next door to Matejkos manor house,
this is one of two wooden churches in the area. Built between
1633 and 1648 in the village of Jaworniki in the mountains
on Polands eastern border with Ukraine, when the church
was threatened by demolition in the 1980s local authorities
surprisingly approved its transfer to Krzesawice as part of
a planned open-air folk architecture museum which never
came to be. A tower was added and the historic monument
took on new life as a place of worship, which continues today
with regular services held in the small, single-aisle interior. Q
Open only during mass and by prior arrangement.
The Cistercian Monastery R-5, ul. Klasztorna 11,
www.mogila.cystersi.pl. Located in what remains of the
sleepy village of Mogia that Nowa Huta was plunked down
upon, the ancient Cistercian Monastery, with its two adjoining
churches, was the closest place of worship to Plac Centralny
until Arka Pana Church (N-1) was finally consecrated in 1977.
The vast and splendid Holy Cross Basilica and the adjoining
Cistercian cloister, which date way, way back to 1266, are
recognised as among the most important religious buildings
in Maopolska. During the Renaissance the monastery was
well known for its master painters and the huge interior of
Holy Cross Basilica as well as the monastery library feature
many fine works from the period. Most importantly, Holy Cross
Basilica also stores the famous Cross of Mogia - the source
of many miraculous legends. Said to have been discovered
when a blacksmiths son jumped into the Wisa River to save
what he thought to be a drowning man floating downstream,
the cross was brought to the monastery and quickly began
building a reputation for miracles before cementing them when
it was the only part of the churchs furnishings not destroyed
by the fire of 1447, despite being made of wood. Christs hair
and loincloth were burned however, and ever since that time he
has donned a wrap of true fabric and a wig of real human hair.
Weird. The monastery is easily accessed from Plac Centralny
via trams 10 and 16; get off at the Klasztorna stop and its
a short walk south. Q Holy Cross Basilica open from dawn
till dusk, sightseeing between services only. On Sundays
(when services are most frequent) the best time to visit is from
15:00 - 16:00. The gardens are open after prior arrangement.
The Lords Ark (Koci Arka Pana) N-1, ul.
Obrocw Krzya 1, www.arkapana.pl. Built between
1967 and 1977, Nowa Hutas first house of worship was
designed by Wojciech Pietrzyk and was pieced together
brick by brick by volunteer workers with no assistance
from the communist authorities. The complete opposite of
what Nowa Huta was meant to stand for, The Lords Ark is a
remarkable building, and a true symbol of the Polish belief in
Catholicism. With no outside help it was down to the locals
to mix cement with spades, and find the two million stones
needed for the churchs facade. The first corner stone was
laid in 1969 by Cardinal Karol Wojtya, who would later as-
sume fame as Pope John Paul II, but the discovery of a WWII
ammunition dump delayed work, as some 5,000 mines and
shells had to be carefully removed. Finally, on May 15th
1977, the church was consecrated. Built to resemble Noahs
Ark, with a 70 metre mast-shaped cruci fix rising from the
middle, the church houses an array of curious treasures,
including a stone from the tomb of St. Peter in the Vatican,
a tabernacle containing a fragment of rutile brought back
from the moon by the crew of Apollo 11, and a controversial
statue of Christ that shows him not on a cross, but about
to fly to the heavens. I f you think thats odd, check out the
statue dedicated to Our Lady the Armoured - a hal f metre
sculpture made from ten kilograms of shrapnel removed
from Pol i sh sol di ers wounded at the Battl e of Monte
Cassino. In the early 1980s, the church became a focal point
during anti-communist protests, not least for the shelter it
afforded the locals from the militia. Protesting during the
period of Martial Law was dangerous business, as proven
by the monument dedicated to Bogdan Wosik opposite
the church. Wosik was shot in the chest by security ser-
vices, and later died of his injuries. His death outraged the
people, and his funeral was attended by 20,000 mourners.
The monument commemorating the site of his death was
erected in 1992 and is a tribute to all those who died during
this period. As recently as September 2012, Krakw City
Council awarded Arka Pana the Cracoviae Merenti silver
medallion for its signi ficance to the citys history. Q Open
06:00 - 19:00. No visiting during mass please.
Museums
Jan Matejko Manor House (Dworek Jana Mate-
jki) S-1, ul. Wakowicza 25, tel. (+48) 12 644 56 74.
Located in Krzesawice - a charming village hidden just
one street behind Nowa Hutas arti ficial lake, here youll
find the small manor house with a wood shingle roof once
used as a workshop by Polands greatest 19th century
painter, Jan Matejko. Though seemingly ironic today, this
is where the artist went to escape the crude haste of li fe
in Krakw. First inhabited by Hugo Kotaj - an eminent
Enlightenment political activist who co-penned Polands
constitution (the first in Europe), Matejko purchased the
manor in 1876 adding on the porch and the extension
which would house his workshop. Inside guests will see
Matej kos famous Gall ery of Polish Ki ngs as well as
many illustrations, everyday items and period furniture.
Next door is the wooden Church of St. John the Baptist
- also worth seeing. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00 and by prior
arrangement. Closed Mon, Sun. Visits for groups of over
10 available by prior arrangement. Call (+48) 12 656 50
51. Admission 7/4z.
Nowa Huta Museum (Dzieje Nowej Huty) O-2,
os. Soneczne 16 (Nowa Huta), tel. (+48) 12 425 97
75, www.mhk.pl. This small museum features a series
of changing exhibitions relating to the li fe and culture of
the district. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission
5/4z. Wed free.
Getting to NH is a cinch thanks to a well-designed tram
network. Tram 4 from Dwrzec Gwny (the train station
stop), or tram 22 from Starowilna both go straight to
Plac Centralny in about 20mins.
Getting There
Roses Avenue (Aleja R)
NOWA HUTA
Jakub Haun, Wikipedia,CC
BY-SA 3.0
109
108
WIELICZKA NOWA HUTA
outdated interiors of the famous Stylowa Restaurant - one
of the only places to eat in NH that isnt a milk bar. Once one
of the most exclusive restaurants in town, this place carries
on in the same spirit as the day it opened with an interior that
hasnt been updated in well over 30 years. Stop in Saturday
evening to witness pensioned locals strutting their stuff on
the dancefloor to live disco polo sets by a crooning husband
and wife team, and we guarantee you wont be able to leave
before dancing with at least two grannies and having at least
three unwanted conversations. A rare cultural experience,
few places like Stylowa still exist anywhere.
Wandas Mound (Kopiec
Wandy) T- 4, Near intersec-
tion of ul. Ujastek Mogilski
and ul. Bardosa. Though con-
struction of Nowa Huta began in
1949, Kopiec Wandy is indisput-
able evidence that the history of
the area goes back much further.
I n fact, the village of Mogi a,
which Kopiec Wandy is near the
historical centre of, has been
inhabited since 5000 BC without
interruption, whil e archaeol o-
gists date the settlement of Krakws Old Town much later
in the 8th century. Together with Kopiec Krakusa in Podgrze
(K-5) - Krakws other prehistoric earthwork - Kopiec Wandy
plays a role in one of Polands greatest archeaological mys-
teries as the mounds date of construction, builders and
function all remain a subject of great speculation. Leading
theories suggest that both mounds were erected sometime
between the 6th and 10th centuries, by either the Slavs or
the Celts, as burial mounds or pagan cult sites; perhaps
most likely is that they were created as burial mounds which
later became cult sites. Though seemingly random within the
layout of modern Krakw, the location of the two mounds can
hardly be seen as an accident; when standing atop Kopiec
Wandy on the evening of the summer solstice, the sun can be
seen setting in a direct line behind Kopiec Krakusa.
Off a major road behind a handy tramstop (station Kopiec
Wandy), Wandas Mound is a conical earthwork rising 14m
with a winding path to the top, adorned by a small monu-
ment from the 19th century by Jan Matejko who lived in the
Krzesawice Manor nearby. The victim of general neglect
and geographical trespasses, Wandas Mound today lies
just beyond the fence of the fearsomely enormous Sendzimir
steel plant, of which glimpses of a large junkyard can be seen
through the trees. The view to the southwest is an improve-
ment, where Kopiec Krakusa and Podgrze can be seen in
the distance, though Wandas Mound unfortunately doesnt
offer sweeping views of the same caliber as Krakws other
mounds. The parkland surrounding the mound is in need of
the development which is apparently planned, not to men-
tion some proper modern archaeological studies; behind
the mound is a footpath leading to the right towards one
of Krakws hidden 19th century Austrian fortresses, but,
honestly, it just gives us the creeps.
Getting to Wieliczka is a cinch with the E4 road east out
of Krakw (aptly named ul. Wieliczka within city limits)
leading straight to the Wieliczka exit in about 15 minutes.
Alternatively, frequent trains also run for about 5.30z,
or take bus 304 from the Dworzec Gwny Zachd
stop outside Galeria Krakowska near ul. Kurniki (D-1), or
one of the Wieliczka-bound mini-buses leaving from the
parking area near there at the corner of ul. Ogrodowa
and ul. Pawia (D-1). Cost 3.50z, journey time 20-30mins.
Getting There
Archiwum Kopalnia Wieliczka
Archiwum Kopalnia Wieliczka
Krakw is without a doubt one of the most popular tourist
cities in Eastern Europe, and as youve likely heard, one of
its top tourist attractions is a salt mine actually located in
Wieliczkaa small town about 15km to the southeast.
An astounding 1.2 million people visit Wieliczka Salt Mine
each year (thats one out of every seven or eight visitors
to Krakw), and its hardly a recent phenomenonpeople
have been visiting the salt mine for centuries with notable
guests including Nicolaus Copernicus, Johann Wolfgang von
Goethe, Fryderyk Chopin, Ignacy Panderewski, Pope John
Paul II and former US president Bill Clinton. In fact, the first
official tourist trail opened underground here way back in
the mid-19th century. But its not only tourists who come to
visit. So deep is the love of the locals for this place that in a
recent survey (see Local Likes & Dislikes), Cracovians voted
Wieliczka Salt Mine as their number one favourite thing about
Krakw; again, not bad for an attraction in another town 15
kilometres away. Not only is Wieliczka a World Heritage Site,
but it has the distinction of having been included (along with
Krakws Old Town) on UNESCOs first-ever World Heritage
List back in 1978 (you know, back when being a World Heri-
tage site actually meant something). Additional accolades
aside, this unique industrial heritage site has been a popular
destination for centuries and if youre visiting Krakw, you
should also consider the short side trip out to Wieliczka,
which in addition to the famous salt mine, also boasts a
health resort, castle and museum.
History
About 20 million years ago, Krakw and the surrounding area
apparently lay at the bottom of a shallow, salty sea. Unfor-
tunately for those of us here today, the beaches are gone,
but left behind were some enormous salt deposits, shifted
hundreds of metres underground by tectonic movements.
Though cheap and universally accessible today, salt was
an extremely valuable commodity centuries ago due to its
ability to preserve food, especially meat. An ancient sign of
wealth, salt was used as currency before there was money;
Roman soldiers who ably performed their duties were said
to be worth their salt and the word salary comes from the
Latin word salarium used to describe their wages.
Salt extraction by boiling water from briny surface pools in the
regions surrounding Krakw can be traced back to the middle
Neolithic era (3500 BC), but it was the discovery of underground
rock salt in the 13th century that led to the rapid development
of the area. Underground extraction began in nearby Bochnia
in 1252 and was established on an industrial scale in Wieliczka
by the 1280s; soon both cities had earned municipal rights
and by the end of the 13th century the Cracow Saltworks was
established to manage both mines, with its headquarters in the
Wieliczka castle complex. One of the first companies in Europe,
the Cracow Saltworks brought vast wealth to the Polish crown
for the next 500 years until the first partition of Poland in the
18th century. Its heyday was the 16th and 17th centuries when
it employed some 2,000 people, production exceeded 30,000
tonnes and the Saltworks accounted for one third of the revenue
of the state treasury.
Under Austrian occupation (1772-1918) production was
further increased by mechanising the mining works with
steam and later electric machinery, and the first tourist route
was opened. By the 20th century however, over-exploitation
and neglect of necessary protection works had begun to
destabilise the mines condition and the market value of salt
no longer made it a viable enterprise. In 1964 the extraction
of rock salt was halted in Wieliczka and in 1996 exploitation
of the salt deposit was stopped altogether. Despite the
significant hazards of the day (flooding, cave-ins, explosive
gas), over the course of seven centuries 26 access shafts
and 180 fore-shafts connecting individual levels had been
drilled in Wieliczka. 2,350 chambers had been excavated
with over 240km of tunnels reaching a maximum depth of
327m underground. Due to its unique saline microclimate and
innovative engineering, the mine has been well preserved and
is today used for historical, medicinal and tourist purposes.
Places of Interest
The Central Square & Roses Avenue (Plac
Centralny i Aleja R) O-4. The centre of Nowa Hutas
architectural layout, Plac Centralny is the districts primary
landmark and one of social realisms highest architectural
achievements in PL, despite never being completed. The
two main structures of the square were to be the towering
Town Hall (resembling a mini PKiN) at the northern end and
a colonnaded theatre at the southern end, with an obelisk
in between; though the designs were in place, none saw
development. Similarly, the grand promenade linking them -
Roses Avenue (Aleja R, O-3) - was never fully realised, and
terminates after a mere four blocks, making it a fine example
of your typical Stalinist road to nowhere.
While tooling around the six-story arcaded buildings lining
the way, youll find several curiosities worth peeping into.
Perhaps the most timeless shop in Nowa Huta is Cepelix (os.
Centrum B bl.1, O-3; open 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-13:00.
Closed Sun). Specialising in Polish folk art and design, this
amazing gift shop is like none other thanks to the original
50s interior of stylised furnishings, metal chandeliers and
a coffer ceiling with colourful hand-painted ceramic plates.
The character of this place hasnt changed a bit and as such
its a great place to buy sheepskins, lacework or famous
Bolesawiec pottery at basement prices. Crossing the street
to os. Centrum C, original interiors have also been preserved
in the corner Skarbnica bookshop, but for a true taste of the
district visit the incredible milk bar next door to it. Nowa Huta
is literally chock-a-block with milk bars, but weve never seen
anything as glorious as the midnight blue with a rainbow motif
interior of this bar mleczny. If you think that cant be topped,
take a trip to the other end of the block to see the hideously
As an avid cyclist it is distinctly possible Lenin visited what
is now Nowa Huta during his two year sojourn in Krakw. He
made a high-profile comeback in 1954 when the Steelworks
were named after him, and a year later a statue of him was
unveiled in Strzelecki Park. The figure was moved to the Lenin
Museum soon after, and thereafter mysteriously disappeared.
In 1970 the decision was taken to construct a new one on Al.
R, with Marian Konieczny winning the commission.
Strangely, the artist was at that time living in Lenins
former flat. Perhaps inspired by this freaky turn of fate
Konieczny took three years to create a cracker of a statue,
with the seven tonne Lenin seen striding purposefully
foreward down the centre of town with raincoat open and
furrowed brow. The people of Nowa Huta however were
left unimpressed, and the statue soon became the focus
of creative vandals. In one such case a rusty old bicycle,
battered pair of boots and a handwritten note were left
below the statue which read, Take these old boots, get
on the bike and get the heel out of Nowa Huta. In 1979
a bomb was planted at his feet, though the only casualty
proved to be a local man who died of shock after being
awoken by the blast. During the Martial Law era more
attempts to destroy him were thwarted, and he doggedly
survived an effort to pull him down, as well as an arson
attack. Finally, on December 10, 1989, Lenin was picked
up by a giant crane, boxed up and left to rot in a disused
fort. But his story doesnt end there. Years later a Swedish
philanthropist bought him for 100,000 Swedish crowns,
and had him shipped to a museum outside of Stockholm.
Today Nowa Hutas former pet Lenin has been given a
more youthful look by Swedish artists, and is now seen
touting a pierced ear and a handrolled ciggie. But we kid.
Memories of Lenin
Crazy Guides C-2, ul. Floriaska 38, tel. (+48)
500 09 12 00, www.crazyguides.com. Specialising
in communist themed tours of Nowa Huta and the Send-
zimir Steelworks. Experience Stalins gift to Krakw - one
of the worlds only centrally planned cities - in a genuine
Eastern Bloc Trabant 601 automobile. Q Communism
Tour 129z per person.
Tours
110
WIELICZKA
What to See
Wieliczka Salt Mine ul. Daniowicza 10, Wieliczka,
tel. (+48) 12 278 73 02, www.kopalnia.pl. A visit to the
salt mine begins at the Daniowicza Shaft; buy your ticket
from the adjacent ticket office and check the outside display
for the time of the next guided tour in your language. Your
ticket is valid for two parts of the salt mine: the Tourist
Route, which comprises the first 2 hours, and the Under-
ground Museum which takes an additional hour to visit.
In between theres an opportunity to take a break, use the
restrooms and even get something to eat (or escape if thats
your preference). However, be aware that the tour does
not end at the restaurant as many tour guides suggest it
does to foreign groups; in fact, they are obliged to escort you
to and through the Underground Museum (which you have
already paid for) as well.
Be prepared to do a lot of walking and bear in mind that the
mine is a constant 15 degrees Centigrade. If you want to
endear the guides, memorise the wonderful words Szcz
Boe (shtench boes-yuh); this essential, unpronounceable
bit of miners lingo effectively means God be with you and
substitutes for Dzie dobry (hello) when underground.
Your tour begins in earnest by descending 380 wooden stairs
(dont worry, you wont have to climb them) to the first level 64m
underground. Of nine levels, the tour only takes you to the first
three (a max depth of 135m), with the 3.5kms covered during
the 3 hour tour (including both parts) comprising a mere 1% of
this underground realm. While wandering the timber-re-enforced
tunnels youll gain insight from your guide into the history of
the site, the techniques used to extract the salt and the lives
of the men who worked there. Theres the opportunity to not
only operate a medieval winch used for moving massive blocks
of salt, but also to lick the walls (bring some tequila). The tour
visits numerous ancient chambers and chapels in which almost
everything around you is made from rock salt, including the tiled
floors, chandeliers, sculptures and stringy stalactites that hang
down. The highlight of the tour is the magnificent 22,000m
St. Kingas Chapel dating from the 17th century. Known for its
amazing acoustics, the chapel features bas-relief wall carv-
ings from the New Testament done by miners that display
an astonishing amount of depth and realism. After passing
a lake that holds more than 300g of salt per litre, and a hall
high enough to fly a hot-air balloon in (you can take a lift to the
balcony at the top for 10z), the first part of the tour ends at the
underground restaurant and souvenir stands, at which point you
should be instructed on your two options: how to exit (option A)
or where and when to join the second part of the tour (option
B). If this option B is unmentioned or unclear, inform your guide
that you also want to see the Underground Museum and ask
them how to do so.
At your leisure you should be able to find your way past the
restaurant and restrooms, beyond which youll find the queue
for the tiny, nerve-wracking, high-speed lift that shoots you
back up to the surface (option A), and separate area to the
right for those that want to continue on to the Underground
Museum (option B, which we heartily recommend). Your origi-
nal guide should admit you into the museum exhibition which
comprises an additional 16 chambers over 1.5kms packed
full of artwork, artefacts and mining equipment which your
guide will elaborate on. Perhaps the most fascinating and
informative part of the Wieliczka experience, the highlights of
these beautiful exhibits include two paintings by famous 19th
century Polish artist Jan Matejko, and an entire room full of
sparkling salt crystals. Upon completion your guide leads you
back to the ancient lift which takes you above ground back
to where you started. Q Open 07:30 - 19:30. Admission
73/58z. Taking photos is an additional 10z. In addition to
the popular Tourist Route described above, several other
routes are offered including a handicap-accessible route,
a route for children, and a new interactive Miners Route
in which tourists leave from the Regis mine in work clothes
accompanied by an English-speaking guide, are assigned a
role by the foreman and experience the daily routines, rituals
and secrets of working underground. Miners Route open
10:00 - 14:30; cost 95/80z..
The Saltworks Castle & Museum (Muzeum up
Krakowskich Wieliczka) ul. Zamkowa 8, Wieliczka,
tel. (+48) 12 278 58 49, www.muzeum.wieliczka.pl.
From the Daniowicza Shaft its a short, rather picturesque
walk to the Saltworks Castle, which served as the administra-
tive seat of the Cracow Saltworks Board. Originally built be-
tween the 13th and 16th centuries, the castle was demolished
during World War II before being beautifully reconstructed in
1984. The castle courtyard features the foundations of the
original oval-shaped defensive walls and a 14th century tower
that once housed a prison and shooting gallery. The main
building holds a museum documenting the history of Wielic-
zka and the castle itself from its early beginnings to modern
times, local archaeological findings, a model of 19th century
Wieliczka, a collection of saltcellars from all over the world,
and other temporary exhibits. With little to no information in
English, the museum is hardly required visiting but interesting
enough to warrant the negligible entry fee if you have time. Q
Open 09:00 - 16:30. Closed Mon, Sun. From May open 09:00
- 16:30. Closed Mon. Admission 4/3z. Guided tours in English
35z per person; must be booked at least 7 days in advance.
Underground Health Resort (Uzdrowisko Kopal-
nia Soli Wieliczka) Park Kingi 1, bldg. I, Wieliczka,
tel. (+48) 12 278 73 68, www.uzdrowisko.kopalnia.pl.
With the market value of table salt no longer being what it
was in medieval times, today the salt mine is most valuable
for its health benefits (and tourist dollars, of course). Given
its perfect isolation from external factors, the specific micro-
climate of the subterranean saline chambers is completely
bacteria- and allergen-free and rich in healthy microelements
such as sodium chloride, magnesium and chloride. Such an
environment is brilliant for anyone suffering from asthma,
bronchitis, lung inflammation, allergies or recurrent nose, si-
nus or throat conditions. As such, the salt mine also operates
as a health resort offering a variety of single and multiple day
health treatments in the Jezioro Wessel (Wessel Lake) and
Stajnia Gr Wschodnich (Stable of East Mining Hills) saline
chambers located 135m underground. Here individuals and
groups can participate in a number of organised breathing
exercises and walks, as well as music therapy (reservations
required). The health resort also offers innovative methods
for the treatment of serious respiratory ailments and a broad
range of modern medical services with professional medical
staff and equipment. More info can be found on their website.
QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Tue, Fri 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Prices vary by season, treatment and length of stay.
Check the website for specific quotes.
112
AUSCHWITZ
The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most
horri fic acts in human history with a level of tact, passion,
poi gnancy and professionalism that is so profound, i t
almost makes as lasting an impression as the site itsel f.
Without being heavy-handed, the history of the site is pre-
sented in all of its contexts and guests are perhaps spared
from fully surrendering to their emotions only by the sheer
relentlessness of the information. No matter how much you
think you know on the subject, the perspective gained by
visiting is incomparable. Whether or not you choose to go
to Auschwitz is up to you to decide. However it should be
understood that Auschwitz is not a site of Jewish concern,
Polish concern, German concern, gypsy concern, historical
concern... It is a site of human concern. As such, we believe
everyone should visit.
Visiting the Auschwitz Museum
Arri ving at the Auschwi tz Museum can be chaoti c and
confusi ng thanks to l arge crowds, numerous ti cket
wi ndows wi th di f ferent desi gnati ons, and excessi ve
si gnage that contradi cts i tsel f. This can be avoi ded by
going as part of an organised group tour, organised by
a l ocal tour company. I f you are visi ting independentl y
however, or in a small group, find the queue for the desk
marked Indi vi dual Guests. During peak tourist season
the museum makes i t obl i gatory to buy a ti cket and
become part of a gui ded tour, however in the of f season
(October-March) i t is possi bl e to expl ore the museum
for free wi thout a gui de. Be that as i t may, we strongl y
recommend the guided tour, which is excell ent, profound
and professional; afterwards youll find i t hard to imag-
ine getting as much out of your visi t had you expl ored
the grounds on your own. Tours in English depart most
frequentl y, and there are also regularl y schedul ed tours
i n German, French, I tal i an, Pol i sh and Spani sh. Tour
departure times change frequentl y; exact times can be
seen online at auschwitz.org.pl and i t woul d be wise
to l ook them up before visi ting. The museum makes a
bi g ef fort to provi de the tour in the nati ve language of
each guest, and tours in languages other than those j ust
mentioned can be easil y arranged i f done in advance.
Af ter purchasi ng your ti cket and headphones, your
experi ence typi cal l y begi ns wi th a harrowi ng 20 mi nute
fi l m of narrated footage captured by the Sovi et Army
when they arri ved to li berate the camp i n January 1945.
The fi l m (not recommended for chi l dren under 14) i s
not guaranteed year-round however, i n whi ch case your
tour of the camp begi ns strai ghtaway wi th a l i ve gui de
speaki ng i nto a mi crophone whi ch you hear through
your headphones.
For centuries the town of Owicim was a quiet backwater
community, largely bypassed by world events. That changed
with WWII when Owicim, known as Auschwitz under
German occupation, became the chosen site of the largest
death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1 million and 1.5
million people were exterminated here, etching the name of
Auschwitz forever into the history books; countless films,
documentaries, books and survivor accounts have since
burned it into the collective consciousness.
Visitors to Krakw are faced with asking themselves whether
or not they will make the effort to visit Auschwitz. It is a dif-
ficult question. There are few who would say they actually
want to visit Auschwitz, though many are compelled to do
so for their own reasons. For those of us who dont feel so
compelled, its easy to give reasons for not going: not having
enough time, already knowing as much as we need or want
to know about it, not feeling personally connected enough
to the site or the history to need to visit, or being uncomfort-
able about the prospect of visiting a site of such emotional
resonance at the same time as hundreds of other tourists.
Having been there, we can tell you that all of these explana-
tions for avoiding Auschwitz are perfectly reasonable until
youve actually visited the site; youll be hard-pressed to find
anyone who has made the trip and still argues against going.
Lying 75km west of Krakw, there are several ways
to get to Owicim/Auschwitz. The easiest may be
si gni ng on for a tour organi sed by a mul ti tude of
Krakw-based tour companies (like Cracow City Tours
or Cracow Tours) to ensure everything goes smoothly;
providing transportation, tickets and general guidance,
the organisational help of these outfits can eliminate
signi ficant confusion upon arrival.
For those going the DIY route, frequent buses depart
for Owicim from the main bus station (ul. Bosacka 18,
E-1); most stop at the Auschwitz Museum entrance, but
not all, so make sure beforehand otherwise you may end
up at the Owicim bus station which is at the other end
of town. The journey takes 1hr 40mins and costs 14z.
Frequent, almost hourly trains also run between Krakw
and Owicim, with a journey time of 1hr 45mins - 1hr
55mins and a cost of about 16z; note, however, that
early trains to Owicim can be eerily crowded, particu-
larly on weekends.
The Owicim train station (ul. Powstacw lskich 22)
lies strategically between Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-
Birkenau, which are 3km apart. Local bus numbers 24-29
stop at Auschwitz I; buy a 2.60z fare from the nearest kiosk.
Museum buses regularly shuttle visitors between the two
camps, or catch a cab for 15z. Waiting minibus taxis run
by Malarek Tour can take you back to Krakw from either
camp - a group of eight would pay about 25-35z/person.
Getting There
LOCAL TOURS EXPERT
TYNIEC
KRAKW
WIELICZKA SALT MINE
ZAKOPANE
THERMAL POOLS WARSAW
AUSCHWITZ BIRKENAU
AIRPORT TRANSFERS
NOWA HUTA
www.discovercracow.eu
+48 12 346 38 99
114
AUSCHWITZ
115
AUSCHWITZ
Auschwitz II - Birkenau (Pastwowe Muzeum
Auschwitz - Birkenau) Owicim, tel. (+48) 33 844
81 00, www.auschwitz.org. Having completed the long
tour of Auschwitz I, some visitors decline the opportunity to
visit Auschwitz II - Birkenau, however its here that the impact
of Auschwitz can be fully felt through the sheer size, scope
and solitude of the second camp. Added in 1942 Birkenau
contained 300 barracks and buildings on a vast site that
covered 175 hectares. Soon after the Wannsee Confer-
ence on January 20, 1942, when Hitler and his henchmen
rubber-stamped the wholesale extermination of European
Jews, it grew to become the biggest and most savage of all
the Nazi death factories, with up to 100,000 prisoners held
there in 1944.
The purpose-buil t train tracks leading directl y into the
camp still remain. Here a grim selection process took
place with 70% of those who arrived herded directly into
gas chambers. Those selected as fit for slave labour lived
in squalid, unheated barracks where starvation, disease
and exhaustion accounted for countless lives. With the
Soviets advancing, the Nazis attempted to hide all traces
of their crimes. Today little remains, with all gas chambers
having been dynamited and living quarters levelled. Climb
the tower of the main gate for a full impression of the
complexs size. Directly to the right lie wooden barracks
used as a quarantine area, while across on the left hand
side lie numerous brick barracks which were home to the
penal colony and also the womens camp. At the far end
of the camp lie the mangled remains of the crematoria,
as well as a bleak monument unveiled in 1967. After a
comparabl y brief guided tour of the camp, visitors are
left to wander and reflect on their own before catching
the return bus to Auschwitz I.
Under occupation efforts were made to turn the town
into a model Nazi settlement with plans for wide green
spaces and modern estates. Aside from normal German
settlers the town saw 7,000 SS serve here and they
enjoyed a good community li fe complete with coffee
house, swimming pool, kindergarten and a profusion of
cultural events; at one stage the Dresden State Theatre
performed here. The SS pub was housed in a building
across from Owicim train station, and its top floor
was turned into a flat to serve Himmler during his visits.
After the war the hunt was on to find the people who
perpetrated the Holocaust. Camp Commandant Rudolf
Hoss was captured in 1946, while posing as a farm hand.
Sentenced to death he was hanged next to the gas cham-
ber of Auschwitz I on April 16, 1947. Others who faced
the hangmans noose included the head of the womens
camp, Maria Mandel, as well as her 22 year old sidekick
Irma Grese, aka the Beautiful Beast. Adolf Eichmann was
the mastermind behind mass Jewish deportations in the
Eastern territories. Having fled to Argentina after the war
he was kidnapped by Mossad agents, before facing the
trial of the century in Israel in which he was sentenced to
hang. Josef Mengele, the Angel of Death, served as the
camp doctor in Birkenau and supervised selections for
the gas chambers as well as brutal medical experiments
on children. He evaded justice and died in a swimming
accident in Brazil in the seventies.
The Nazi Perpetrators
Auschwitz Jewish Centre & Chevra Lomdei
Mishnayot Synagogue (Centrum ydowskie)
Pl. Ks. Jana Skarbka 5, Owicim, tel. (+48) 33 844
70 02, www.ajcf.org. This centre located 3km from
the Auschwitz museum maintains the towns restored
synagogue, shows a film with testimonies of Holocaust
survivors and offers a specially tailored programme for
those who call ahead. It also features a permanent exhibi-
tion on Jewish life in the town of Owicim before World
War II. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Admission 6z.
Jewish Centre
and tools used for hard labour while the next set of barracks
recreates the living conditions endured by prisoners: bare
rooms with sackcloth spread out on the floor, and rows of
communal latrines, one decorated with a poignant mural
depicting two playful kittens.
Block 11, otherwise known as The Death Block, is arguably
the most difficult part of the tour. Outside, the Wall of Death -
against which thousands of prisoners were shot by the SS - has
been turned into a memorial festooned with flowers; it was here
that Pope Benedict XVI prayed during his ground-breaking visit
in 2006. Within the terrifying, claustrophobic cellars of Block 11
the Nazis conducted their first experiments with poison gas in
1941 on Soviet prisoners. Here the cell of Father Maximilian
Kolbe, the Polish priest starved to death after offering his life to
save another inmate, is marked with a small memorial, and tiny
standing cells measuring 90 x 90 cm - where up to four prison-
ers were held for indefinite amounts of time - remain intact.
The remaining blocks are dedicated to the specific suffering
of individual nations, including a block dedicated in memory
of the Roma people who perished. The tour concludes with
the gruesome gas chamber and crematoria, whose two
furnaces were capable of burning 350 corpses daily. The
gallows used to hang camp commandant Rudolf Hoss in
1947 stands outside.
Visiting Auschwitz is a full days excursion so prepare ac-
cordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of Auschwitz I
takes around 2 hours, so make sure youve eaten breakfast.
After completing the tour of the first camp, there is only a
short break before the bus leaves for Auschwitz-Birkenau
II; in order to stay with the same tour guide, you need to
catch that bus, so it would be wise to pack some food for
the day (though there is some limited food available at the
museum). The tour of the second camp is shorter, lasting
1-1.5 hours. Buses regularly depart back to Auschwitz I, or
you can walk or catch a cab to the train station 1.5km away.
At Auschwitz I there are restrooms (have change available),
a fast food bar and restaurant; there are also restroom facili-
ties at Auschwitz II-Birkenau. If exploring Auschwitz without a
guide, it is highly recommended that you pick up the official
guidebook (5z), whose map of the camp is crucial to avoid
missing any of the key sites; these can be picked up at any
of the numerous bookshops at both sites. Q Both camps
are open 08:00 - 17:00. From May open 08:00 - 18:00.
An individual ticket for a foreign language guided tour
of both camps costs 40/30z. Tours for groups up to 10
people, 250z. For larger groups 300z.
The film costs 4/3z (included in the price of a group
tour). Headphones cost 5z per person (included in the
price of a group tour). Official guidebook 5z..
Auschwitz I (Pastwowe Muzeum Auschwitz -
Birkenau) ul. Winiw Owicimia 20, Owicim, tel.
(+48) 33 844 81 00, www.auschwitz.org. Your tour of
Auschwitz I begins by passing beneath a replica of the infa-
mous Arbeit Macht Frei (Work Makes You Free) entrance
gate. [The original sign was actually made by inmates of the
camp on Nazi orders and is no longer on display after it was
stolen in December 2009 and found in pieces in northern
Poland a few days after the theft.] From the entrance gate,
the prescribed tour route leads past the kitchens, where the
camp orchestra once played as prisoners marched to work,
before starting in earnest inside Block 4. Here an overview
of the creation and reality behind the worlds most notorious
concentration camp is given, with exhibits including original
architectural sketches for gas chambers, tins of Zyklon B
used for extermination and mugshots of inmates. Most
disturbing is over seven tonnes of human hair once destined
for German factories, which does much to demonstrate the
scale and depravity of the Nazi death machine.
Transported to Auschwitz in cattle trucks, newly arrived
prisoners were stripped of their personal property, some of
which is displayed in Block 5 including mountains of artificial
limbs, glasses, labelled suitcases, shaving kits and, most af-
fectingly, childrens shoes. Block 6 examines the daily life of
prisoners with collections of photographs, artists drawings
1940: In April a Nazi commission decides to open a
concentration camp in Owicim, primarily because of
the excellent transport links it enjoys. Using existing
Polish army barracks as a foundation the construction
of Auschwitz I is completed on May 20th. On June 14th,
728 Polish political prisoners from Tarnw become the
first inmates of Auschwitz I, soon followed by 12,000
Soviet POWs.
1941: The first experiments with Zyklon B gas are con-
ducted on 600 Soviet POWs on September 3rd.
1942: Auschwitz II-Birkenau and Auschwitz III-Monowitz
are established.
1944: Jewish crematoria workers in Birkenau stage an
armed uprising on October 7, blowing up Crematorium
IV. Hundreds escape but are soon captured and put
to death.
1945: Liquidation of Birkenau begins in January with the
burning of documents and destruction of gas chambers,
crematoria and barracks. All prisoners who can walk,
approximately 58,000, are sent on arduous death
marches. About 15,000 die during this evacuation.
On January 27 the Red Army liberates Owicim, where
roughly 7,000 prisoners too weak to move have been
abandoned to their fate. In the months after the war
the Auschwitz barracks are used as an NKVD prison.
Post-war: The Auschwitz-Birkenau State Museum is
established. In 1979 UNESCO includes Auschwitz I and
II on its list of World Heritage sites. In the same year it is
visited by Pope John Paul II. His successor, German Pope
Benedict XVI visits in 2006. On December 18th, 2009
thieves steal the infamous Arbeit Macht Frei sign from
above the main entrance gate, cutting it into pieces and
abandoning it in the woods in northern PL; the sign has
been replaced by a replica.
A Brief History
116
TARNW
Eighty kilometres east of Krakw near the crossroads of
two ancient trade routes lies the charming and hospitable
city of Tarnw. Maopolskas second city by size, Tarnw
is absolutely dwarfed by Krakw but features many of the
same cultural and architectural charms without the crushing
crowds, inflated prices and occasional feelings of herd men-
tality that unfortunately come along with a tourist market the
size of Krakws. On the contrary, Tarnw offers tourists the
comforts of a small town with a long history and the cultural
intrigue and activities of a much bigger city. In addition to a
well-preserved medieval Old Town - which includes a glorious
cathedral, a cute market square and Town Hall, and many
pedestrian avenues - in Tarnw visitors will discover several
unique and worthwhile museums, wooden churches, historic
cemeteries, castle ruins and a scenic overlook, as well as
dozens of artistic and historical monuments at every turn.
Those with a special interest in Jewish history should be extra
motivated to visit Tarnw due to its deep Jewish heritage,
many traces of which are still in evidence today in the citys
evocative Jewish district and large Jewish Cemetery. While
the towns nightlife may not have the sizzle of Krakw, there
are still plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants, the best of
which we list here, where youll find it easy to meet friendly
local folks who are proud of their city and eager to present
a good impression to foreigners. All told its enough to easily
warrant spending at least one night, if not more, as in addition
to serving as a quiet, even romantic retreat from Krakw,
Tarnw also makes a superb base for exploring the wealth
of other nearby sites in the region, including the Castle at
Dbno, the folk art of Zalipie, and the salt mines of Bochnia.
Youll find more information on Tarnw and all the surround-
ing area has to offer on our website, but make sure you also
pay a visit to the fine folks at the Tourist Information office
when you arrive for more insights and to pick up a copy of
our special Tarnw mini-guide.
Getting There
Eighty kilometres east of Krakw at the crossroads of two
ancient trade routes between Germany and Ukraine as well
as Hungary and the Baltic Sea, Tarnw is easily reached by
road. A good network of train and bus services running in
and out of the city centre also link Tarnw with many major
destinations throughout Poland. The nearest airport is
Krakw Balice.
By Bus
Buses from Krakw to Tarnw run about once an hour, with
the first leaving as early as 06:30 and the last bus back to
Krakw departing at 21:45 (note that on Thurs and Sun
there is one more bus to Krakw at 22:05). PKS schedules
arent famous for their long-term consistency however, so
you may want to check ahead. Minibuses also make the trip,
departing from across from the bus station, so dont overlook
that option if you need it.
Main Bus Station A-6, ul. Dworcowa 1. Offering almost
nothing in the way of services or facilities aside from a currency
exchange (kantor), toilets downstairs, and a few kiosks selling
mobile top-up vouchers and snacks. Dont be duped by the ticket
windows, they only sell monthly passes and local fares, which
goes a long way towards explaining why everyone just buys their
tickets from the driver. There are no ATMs, so if you need cash
youll have to go to the train station next door. To get into town,
find taxis parked outside, which will take you to the Rynek for
10-12z. Bus N9 can be caught on ul. Krakowska (buy a 15min
First mentioned in a document dated 1124, Tarnw
was granted city rights by King Wadysaw okietek in
1330 - an event celebrated by a fine monument of the
King on ul. Waowa before the stairs leading up to Plac
Katedralny. It was at this time that the medieval layout
the city retains to this day was created, with the market
square and Town Hall at its centre.
A privately owned city until 1787, Tarnws greatest
period of growth came under the illustrious, avant-garde
nobleman Jan Tarnowski during the 16th century when
the Old Town was largely reconstructed in the manner
that today earns it the accolade of being Polands Pearl
of the Renaissance. When the Tarnowski clan expired
without an heir in 1567, the city had already been incor-
porated into the Austrian-Hungarian Empire during the
era of Polish partitions. Tarnws citizens were quick to
join the Polish legions when WWI broke out and the region
saw many battles between the Russian and Austro-
Hungarian armies, resulting in a trail of WWI memorial
sites and cemeteries in the citys vicinity.
In October 1918 Tarnw gained notoriety when it became
the first Polish city to reclaim independence after 146
years of occupation, and again on August 28th, 1939
when German terrorists detonated an explosive in the
citys train station killing 20 people, injuring 32, and leading
some historians to claim that WWII officially started here in
Tarnw. The bombs would start falling from the sky six days
later and by September 7th the Nazis had captured the city.
The first Jews settled in Tarnw in the mid-15th century
and by 1939 their numbers had reached 25,000 - nearly
half the citys total population. On June 14th 1940, 728
Tarnw residents (mostly Poles, in fact) became the
first victims of Auschwitz; of 40,000 Jews crammed into
Tarnws ghetto, over 10,000 were executed and the
rest deported to the Belze death camp. Today Tarnws
Jewish heritage remains through several historical monu-
ments and sites in and around the former ghetto, though
no active Jewish community has survived.
Tarnw was a stronghold of resistance during Nazi oc-
cupation, before eventual liberation into the communist
regime on January 17, 1945. The city developed rapidly
in the postwar period as the monstrous soviet-era resi-
dential blocks in the north-east part of the city became
home to over one-third of its 100,000 population in the
mid-70s. The rise in the prices of meat in July 1980 in-
spired a series of strikes in Tarnw predating the Gdansk
shipyard strikes that would eventually lead to the com-
munist regimes collapse by over a month. Since Polands
ascension to the EU in 2004, Tarnw has enjoyed the
revitalisation of its Old Town and is gaining an increasing
reputation as a noteworthy tourist destination.
History in Brief
Krzysztof Gzyl, courtesy of Tarnw Tourist Information Centre
118
TARNW
119
TARNW
ticket for 2.20z from one of the nearby kiosks), and heads east
along the same street before peeling right and skirting around
the southern edge of the Old Town. A walk into the centre takes
about 10 minutes. Q Ticket Office open 06:00 - 22:00.
By Car
Tarnw is close to a number of major road routes in all directions
and is worth considering as a place to stop off for a few hours
or even for the night if youre on a long journey. Only 80km from
Krakw, thanks to the new (free!) A4 highway connecting the
two cities, its an easy, hassle-free drive to Tarnw that should
take less than an hour. Near the centre the most convenient
place to park is ul. Bernardyska (E-4), just southeast of the
market square; from Pl. Sobieskiego turn onto ul. Targowa (D-4)
and then make your next left on Bernardyska (D-5). Parking
must be paid Mon-Fri 08:00-18:00, Sat 08:00-13:00 (Sun free),
with some complicated math dictating the price depending how
long you will be there (for example: 1z/30mins, 2.50z/1hr,
5.10z/2hrs, 8z/3hrs, after which its an additional 2.50z for
every hour over 3, or 17z for the whole day). Buy a ticket from
the kiosk, cross off the proper time and from there the market
square and tourist info office are just one block to your north.
By Train
Tarnw is served by some 30 or so trai ns every day
from Krakw, wi th a j ourney ti me of between 90 and
120 minutes depending on whether you take a local or
express train.
Main Train Station A-6, Pl. Dworcowy 4, tel. (+48)
22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.
rozklad.pkp.pl. Following an extensive renovation, Tar-
nows train station reopened in November 2010, exactly
one hundred years after its original opening in November
1910. While the original character of the building was re-
tained - including Edmund Cieczkiewiczs paintings of the
Tatra and Pieniny mountains which were funded by the early
train owners over a century ago - it has been converted into
a modern passenger centre with all the services a modern
station requires. Find also a 24-hour ticket window, kiosk,
shop, cafe, underground restaurant and the BWA Gallery
(rumoured to change location in early May). Walking to the
centre takes about 10mins while a taxi from outside the
station will cost about 10-12z.
Hotels
Bristol C- 4/5, ul. Krakowska 9, tel. (+48) 880 47
74 77, www.hotelbristol.com.pl. Enj oy a sumptuous
atmosphere of sl i ghtl y fl amboyant grandeur i nsi de
Tarnws most excl usi ve hotel . Bri stols i mmacul ate
rooms come wi th mini bars, cabl e tel evision, spacious
beds and a choi ce of en sui te faci l i ti es wi th ei ther a
shower or bath. Extras include pl enty of el egant chande-
liers, Doric columns that dont actuall y support anything,
a solarium, gym and an outrageousl y pink honeymoon
apar tment featuri ng a l arge Jacuzzi . Q17 rooms (4
singl es, 5 doubl es, 2 tripl es, 4 sui tes, 2 apartments).
PTHA6FGKW hhhh
U Jana D-4, Rynek 14, tel. (+48) 14 626 05 64, www.
hotelujana.pl. An excellent choice, with 12 apartments
boasting views of the market square, all at a great value
with prices varying based on size and standard. Where
they get all these oil paintings is beyond comprehension,
but theres a barrage of them on the ground floor and youll
find some in your quarters as well. Suites are stylised quite
tastefully to represent the Renaissance history of the build-
ing, with large beds in handsome frames, wooden floors and
modern facilities including satellite television and wifi. Its
an unbeatable location, the downstairs restaurant is more
reliable than many in the area as well, and now theres a new
billiards room to keep you busy. Q12 rooms (12 apartments).
PTHA6GKW
Eat & Drink
Cafe Tramwaj (Tram Cafe) D- 4, Pl. Sobieskiego 2,
tel. (+48) 503 37 23 29. Its been over 70 years since
streetcars graced the streets of Tarnw, but this antique
tram parked on Pl ac Sobi eski ego takes touri sts and
locals back in time to Tarnws golden era, when electri-
fied public transport was a symbol of the citys stature.
Capturing the spirit of the old days (the good ones, mind
you) this authenti c wood-tri mmed and furnished tram
car full of sepia postcards and inter-war souvenirs is the
perfect place to meet for coffee, a slice of cake and a
conversation. Its also a free wi fi hotspot, which is hardly
taken for granted in this town. I f you can score one of the
limited number of tables, youll be happy you did. QOpen
06:30 - 21:00, Fri 06:30 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00. P6GSW
Soprano C-5, ul. Mocickiego 6, tel. (+48) 14 621
09 09, www.soprano-tarnow.pl. Just when wed given
up on having a nice meal out in Tarnw, Soprano saves our
appetite. This is bona fide fine dining, from the exceptional
Italian cuisine down to the gold tablecloths. Unfortunately the
best seats in the house are only seasonal - when the outdoor
garden full of plants and flowers is open, and you can watch
the chef at work with the brick, wood-fired pizza oven - but
that shouldnt stop you from making this one of your meals
out when in town. The soups are delicious and come with
fresh olive bread, while our lamb shank with red currant sauce
(42z) was a worthy follow-up. Probably the most money you
can spend on a meal out in Tarnw, and still a heck of a
bargain. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun
11:00 - 22:00. (18-42z). PTAUGBSW
Leprikon Irish Pub D-4, ul. Rynek 16, tel. (+48) 696
18 75 22. Fetching a great location on the market square,
this Irish pub is a welcome addition to Tarnw - a city suffering
from a severe lack of decent watering holes. Leprikon looks
the part with lots of lucky green and dark wood fittings, 2 TVs
beaming live sports, Guinness on draught (14z) and even a
full Irish breakfast on offer (13z). In addition to the breakfast
menu, this is one of a scant number of places on the market
square that will feed you a proper meal, from Shepherds Pie
(15z) to local specialties, burgers and other pub grub. Though
hardly original or wholly authentic, Leprikons effort is still one
most will appreciate, and symbolises a recent shift for the city
from one that people are queuing to leave, to one that foreign
punters now consider invading on holiday. Congrats, Tarnw.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. AGBW
Churches
Cathedral D-4, Pl. Katedralny, tel. (+48) 14 621 58 85,
www.katedra.tarnow.opoka.org.pl. Dating from the 14th
century with major additions and rebuilds in the 15th and 19th
centuries, the Neo-Gothic Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin
Mary, just northwest of the Rynek and one of the oldest brick
buildings in the city, must rate as one of the most impres-
sive parish churches in Poland. Of note is the 16th-century
portal, the impressive several-metre-long monuments to the
Tarnowski and Ostrogski families, a number of extraordinary
paintings and the impressive, 72-metre tower, a handy point of
reference when getting lost in one of Tarnws many rambling
back streets. Some nice recent additions are also evident,
including the fabulously ornate sculpted metal doors on the
southern side of the building. QOpen 06:00 - 18:30, Sun
06:00 - 20:30. No visiting during mass please.
Museums
Diocesan Museum (Muzeum Diecezjalne) D-4, Pl.
Katedralny 6, tel. (+48) 14 621 99 93, www.muzeum.
diecezja.tarnow.pl. To paraphrase the late John Paul II,
the Church needs art to better understand what lies inside
the soul of man, and Tarnws superb Diocesan Museum,
established in 1888, does a very good job at doing just
that. An astonishing collection of religious art from the
15th century onwards, housed inside an equally wonderful
ensemble of 16th-century houses, the museums most pre-
cious artefact is the original alter from St. Leonards church
in nearby Lipnica Murowana, moved here for preservation
reasons at the insistence of UNESCO. Other highlights include
some truly breathtaking Gothic triptychs and sculptures from
Maopolska, a collection of church fabrics from the Middle
Ages and a few pieces of 19th-century religious folk art. A
marvellous and highly recommended experience. Q Open
10:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00 -
14:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Ethnographic Museum
(Muzeum Etnograficzne)
C- 5, ul. Krakowska 10,
tel. (+48) 14 622 06 25,
www.muzeum.tarnow.pl.
As well as highlighting local
ethnographic traditions, this
better than average collection
includes a large celebration of
Roma (Gypsy) culture, which is
allegedly the only such collec-
tion in Europe. A truly fascinat-
ing, i f slightly dated, exhibi-
tion tracing Roma culture in
Poland from its beginnings in
the 15th century to their fate at the hands of the Nazis and
beyond, the three rooms that make up the exhibition include
some excellent maps, models, costumes and photographs,
all of which are best seen with the aid of a small and very
good booklet, The Gypsies, written by the museums cura-
tor Adam Bartosz and available in English for just 3z. There
are still about 350 Roma living in Tarnw, and their culture
is still very much alive. In the museums back garden youll
find several traditionally painted gypsy caravans. Q Open
09:00 - 15:00; Tue, Thu 09:00 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 -
16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/5z. Sun free.
Town Hall Museum (Ratusz) D- 4, Rynek 1,
tel. (+48) 14 621 21 49, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl.
Worth a visit for a peep inside the Town Hall alone, this
extraordinary collection over two floors includes glass,
porcelain and silver, and the most extensive collection of
18th-century Sarmatian portraits in the country. Two new
permanent exhibits have also been added: the Hunters
Armoury and the Sarmatian Armoury. Sarmatism, i f youre
wondering, was a beguiling infusion of li festyle, culture
and ideology that predominated the Polish nobility from
the 17th to 19th century. Based on the mistaken and
rather amusing belief that Poles were descended from
a loose confederation of ancient Iranian tribes, Polish
Sarmatism evolved over the centuries from a set of values
based on paci fism into a full-blown warrior philosophy that
endorsed horseback riding, outrageous behaviour and a
propensity for lavish Oriental clothing and huge, handlebar
moustaches. The Town Hall Tower can also be ascended
i f arranged ahead of time, and offers panoramic views
for an extra 10z. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00; Wed, Fri 09:00
- 15:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission
8/5z, family ticket 15z. Sun free.
Retaining its original medieval layout of latticed streets
and central market square (Rynek) reached by stairways
from a lower, surrounding loop (formerly the city walls
and defensive towers), Tarnws exemplary Old Town
began life in the 14th century, although most of what
now stands dates from later on. Its crowning glory is the
Rynek, a wide-open plaza surrounded on all four sizes
by fine Renaissance merchant houses dating from the
16th to the 18th century.
At the centre of the Rynek stands the Town Hall, a
lovely 15th-century building originally constructed in
the Gothic style and remodelled at the end of the 16th
century in a classic Renaissance manner, topped off with
an idiosyncratic 30m tower from which a bugler plays
Tarnws hejna - a short traditional melody - every day
at 12:00. Small compared to its vast Cracovian cousin,
the Old Town is still interesting enough to warrant a good
investigation, and includes a fairly well preserved Jew-
ish quarter to the east, one remaining defensive tower
and a pleasant pedestrian street, hugging its northern
edge and featuring several interesting buildings as well
as a number of monuments. In the spring and summer
the Rynek comes to life with tables and chairs from the
multitude of cafes and bars (and surprisingly few restau-
rants) lining it and has a warm and welcoming appeal.
Rynek & The Old Town
Tourist Information Centre D-4, Rynek 7, tel.
(+48) 14 688 90 90, www.tarnow.travel. One of
the most helpful offices in all of PL, make this your first
port of call on arrival. Here youll find a wide range of
free information on Tarnw and the surrounding region,
free internet (browse away), a few souvenirs, bicycle
rental and theres even accommodati on availabl e
upstairs. If youre interested in a gadget-led tour, there
are nine different mp3 audio tours of the main sights for
hire, in addition to a GPS guide called Navigo City Tour.
The friendly, knowledgeable and enthusiastic English-
speaking staff, can give you a better idea of what that
is, plus whatever information or advice you cant find in
this guide, so dont be shy. Q Open 08:00 - 18:00; Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 17:00. From May open 08:00 - 20:00; Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 17:00.
Tourist Information
121
LEISURE
120
TYSKIE
While drinking in cafes and beer gardens is probably the num-
ber one local leisure activity, our Leisure section is geared
more for those looking for outdoor activities on a beautiful
day, or how to stay active on an ugly one. Generally, Craco-
vians are spoiled with recreation opportunities, if only for the
fact that the Old Town is a joy to stroll around when the sun
is out and features several unique green spaces, particularly
the Planty and Bonia (see Outdoor Attractions), the latter of
which is home to an ice rink in winter. Other highlights include
Las Wolski (Wolski Forest), which is home to Kociuszko
and Pisudski Mounds, as well as the Zoo, and provides
plenty of hiking opportunities. Cracovians also love getting
out of town, whether it be short day-outings to Tyniec and
Ojcw (both of which you can expect to be packed on sunny
weekends), or mountains excursions to the Beskidy and Ta-
tra ranges to the south. Zakopane is an especially popular
destination for skiing in winter and hiking in the summer. Use
the listings below to keep active in every season.
Adrenaline Sports
Krakowski Park Linowy ul. Widakowa (Pychowice), tel.
(+48) 514 25 66 47, www.krakowskiparklinowy.pl. Give
yourself a new high navigating the maze of rope bridges, nets
and ziplines of this exciting ropes park just off the Wisa bike trail
midway between Wawel and Tyniec Abbey (just beyond F-5 on the
IYP map). 200 metres in total, with a height ranging from 5-9m,
the course is of varying difficulty but a thrilling and safe challenge
for everyone thanks to helmets and harnesses. Walking the entire
course takes between 45 minutes and an hour. They also offer
a shorter and easier route for children over 1.4m in height. For
more info visit their website which has an English option. Q Open
from May 15:00 - 19:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:30. 30z for adults.
25z for children under 16. 50z for personal accompaniment by
an instructor. 15z for the childrens route.
Laser Park I-4, ul. Zabocie 20, tel. (+48) 12 296 01
30, www.laserpark.pl. Run amuck in the industrial waste-
land around Schindlers Factory known as Zabocie dodging
laser beams and zapping adversaries. Laser Arena uses a
computer system to register hits from the virtual bullets in
a safe, simulated gunfight within this highly unique setting.
Prices are complex and as follows: Mon-Thu 20/30z for
30mins, 35/40z for 60mins; Fri-Sun 40z for 30mins, 55z
for 60mins. Groups (14 players minimum) Mon-Thu 350z, Fri-
Sun 400z. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00.
WRT Karting ul. Nowolipki 3 (entrance from ul.
Makuszynskiego, Bieczyce), tel. (+48) 509 43 70
61, www.wrt-karting.pl. Spin your wheels around this 250
metre indoor go-karting course north of Nowa Huta. 8mins
of track time is 20z, 16mins is 35z, 24mins 50z. You can
get there by hopping on bus 182 at the bus station (Dworzec
Gwny Wshd stop) and getting off over 20 stops later at
Nowolipki. QOpen 14:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat
11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
Boat Rental & River Cruises
Aqua Fun B-6, Bulwar Czerwieski Marina (near Grun-
waldzki Bridge), tel. (+48) 604 29 90 00, www.rejsy.
krakow.pl. Regular river cruises between Bielany-Zwierzyniec
and Kazimierz abroad a stylish gondola (30mins, 20/15z; 1hr,
25/20z) or proper boat with refreshments and an upper deck
(1hr, 15/12z). Both gondola and boat rides run from 10:00 to
20:00 every half hour, however rides dont leave until a suffi-
cient number of people are on-board. All are speaker-equipped
with an audio tour and can be rented privately. Night cruises
and private trips with live folk or klezmer music can also be
arranged in advance. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Zakrzwek G-5. This fantastic reservoir just beyond
the city centre was serendipitously created when the
limestone quarry operating here accidentally pierced
the water table. Though officially prohibited and the site
of frequent accidents, the irresistible blue, seemingly
bottomless water is immensely popular with locals for
swimming and cliff diving in summer. If you want to get
in on the action we recommend you do so through the
scuba diving school that operates here; the depth varies
from 7-21m (23-69ft) and the bottom is cluttered with all
kinds of things that shouldnt be there: several vehicles
and sunken boats, as well as the former changing rooms
of the quarry workers. The surrounding limestone bluffs
and woods are an additional attraction - a favoured place
for summer barbecues, ideal for hiking and a favourite
for local rock-climbers, whose anchors you may notice
sticking out of the cliff faces. The area is also the fabled
former stomping ground of Krakws legendary alchemist
and occultist Pan Twardowski, who purportedly had his
workshop in one of the caves. Nearby, intrepid adventur-
ers will also discover access to large, abandoned and
very creepy Austrian bunkers carved in the cliffs. A great
place to go exploring, the nearest bus stops are Grota-
Roweckiego and Kapelanka; the nearest tram stop is
the Kapelanka stop near Tesco.
Zakrzwek
Tyskie Brewery (Tyskie Browary Ksice) ul.
Mikoowska 5 (entrance from Katowicka 9), Tychy,
tel. (+48) 32 327 84 30, www.tyskiebrowarium.pl.
The Tyskie Browary Ksice, in the town of Tychy (German
Tichau) some 10km south of Katowice has been brewing beer
continuously for nearly 400 years. And because of its Silesian
location it has witnessed a number of historic events over the
years with its own history reflecting that of the region. The
originally German-owned brewery now produces the famous
Tyskie Gronie, Polands best selling beer, and Tyskie Browary
Ksices (or just Tyskie) impressive ensemble of buildings
also includes a superb little museum which is open to the
public for tours. Taking about 2.5 hours and led by a friendly
and informative, English-speaking guide, the Tyskie tour
takes visitors through the entire brewing process. Starting
in the immaculately preserved Old Brewery, a masterpiece of
original decorative tiles and old copper vats installed during
WWI that have had modern brewing equipment cleverly put
inside them, the tour follows the brewing process from start
to finish and also offers a fascinating insight into the history
of the factory. Highlights include the so-called Bachelors
Quarters and the saucy tales that go with them, a glimpse
of the brewerys own railway station and, across the road,
a look inside the fabulously fragrant bottling plant. Now
producing over 8,000,000 hectolitres of booze annually (or
to put it another way, if you put all that beer into half litre
bottles and laid them end to end youd have a line of beer
80,000km long), the rise of the brewery is recorded inside the
superb Brewery Museum, complete with interactive displays
in English and housed inside a red brick neo-Gothic church
built in 1902. Tours must be booked in advance, and yes,
theres a tasting session at the end. The tours are conducted
in Polish, English, German, Spanish, French, Italian, Czech,
Russian and in the local Silesian dialect (if you ever wanted
to hear what that might sound like). The museum building
also houses the local City Museum, which is well worth having
a look inside if youve got the time, while the town itself is
also worth exploring to properly cap your trip to Tychy.QOpen
10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance 2,5 hours before
closing. Visitors must be over 18 and should call in advance
to book a place on the tour. Admission 12/6z.
Water Equipment H-3, SKS Nadwilaska Marina
near ul. Kociuszki 16, tel. (+48) 606 22 55 55, www.
zeglugawkrakowie.pl. Water equipment rental for a variety
of sports and persuasions, including a 12-person catamaran
and 4-person motorboats. Canoe and kayak rental (20z/
hr), as well as 4-person pedalos (30z/hr) available from
May. Kayaking tours also organised. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Bowling & Billiards
Fantasy Park L-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12 290 95
15, www.krakow.fantasypark.pl. The citys best bowling
lanes, an arcade, billiards and rumpus room for the kids.
Take trams 1, 14 or 22, getting off at Krakw Plaza. Also
taking night bus 609 and hopping off at the Dbie stop will
get you there after 23:00. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 02:00.
The Stage B-1, ul. obzowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 681
63 85, www.the- stage.pl. Probabl y Krakws most
atmospheric billiards club, The Stage is much more than
j ust a pool hal l. Theres a ful l ki tchen servi ng qual i ty
international cuisine and in the evenings this laid-back
hangout features a range of events including concerts,
cabarets, and karaoke wi th a li ve band as locals rack
em up on the seven handsome billiards tables in front of
the street-side windows. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 04:00. Cost of a table ranges between 5-20z
depending on time of day.
The easiest way to get to Tychy from Krakw is by car
and the 85km journey will take about an hour and a half.
Alternatively you can get there from Krakw by train which
involves a change in Katowice and takes about two and
a half hours. The brewery is a short walk southeast from
Tychy train station.
Getting There
122
LEISURE
123
LEISURE
Stani s aw Lem Sci ence Gar den (Ogr d
Dowiadcze) Al. Pokoju 68 (Czyyny), tel. (+48) 12
346 12 85, www.ogroddoswiadczen.pl. A fun, interac-
tive educational park for kids named after late, local sci-fi
author Stanisaw Lem. The 7 hectare park features different
stations engaging kids in optical illusions and the laws of
physics. Explanations are in English and Polish, and guides
(English) are available for an additional 15z if you call three
days in advance. Get there from the centre via trams 1, 14 or
22 getting off at the M-1/Al. Pokoju stop. Q Open from April
13 08:30 - 15:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing. Admission 8/5,50z, children under
7 free. Family ticket 22z. Combined ticket for the Science
Garden and the City Engineering Museum 11/8z.
Spa & Beauty
Book-a-balance Mobile Spa, tel. (+48) 503 63 39 03,
www.book-a-balance.pl. This mobile spa service brings the
pampering straight to you. Qualified and experienced profes-
sionals arrive at your apartment or hotel room with all the neces-
sary equipment to make you feel like royalty, ensuring that you
literally dont have to lift a finger beyond making the call. Offering
a range of massages (90-180z) and beauty treatments (70-
150z). Q Available 7 days a week between 08:00 and 22:00.
Vanilla SPA H-4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski &
SPA), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 04, www.vanillaspa.pl. This
luxurious spa in the centre of the new five star Niebieski hotel
is a palace of pampering for your mind and body thanks to a
variety of holistic treatments in relaxing environs. Spoil your
skin through a series of peels and masks using top of line
cosmetics and munch on organic bio snacks courtesy of
the Vanilla Sky restaurant between trips to the sauna, steam
bath, and massage tables. Walk in for a free consultation to
have the on-hand hands-on experts create your own personal
care programme. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.
Swimming & Diving
Krakw Water Park (Park Wodny) L-1, ul. Dobrego
Pasterza 126, tel. (+48) 12 616 31 90, www.parkwodny.
pl. The biggest indoor pool complex in Poland includes 800
metres of water slides for all ages, dragon and pirate play areas,
massage fountains, climbing walls, wave machines, swings and
other in-water activites, this incredible aquatic playground is
the thing your kid will remember most about Krakw. You wont
have such a bad time yourself with access to saunas, jacuzzis,
fitness and wellness centres and a pool-side cafe from which
you can watch your little terrors try to dunk each other. Prices
to the pool vary but are in the range of 14-23z for one hour, and
48-54z for day access. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
Golf
Krakow Valley Golf & Country Club Pacztowice
328, tel. (+48) 12 258 60 00, www.krakow-valley.
com. With a club house, driving, chipping and putting ranges,
this magnificent 160ha 18 hole golf course 25km west of
Krakw, is one of the largest and best in Central Europe.
Reserve a tee-time on weekends when the fairway is busy.
To reach them youll either need a car or take a train from
Krakw to Krzeszowice ( journey takes about 40 minutes)
and then a private bus to Pacztowice (7 minutes). Q Open
from 09:00 till dusk.
Royal Krakw Golf & Country Club Ochmanw
124, Pod e, tel . (+48) 12 281 91 70, www.
krakowgolf.pl. A nine hol e gol f course l ocated cl ose
to the Royal Jagi el l oni an Hunti ng Grounds (Puszcza
Niepoomicka) 18km east of Krakw. A clubhouse and
restaurant overlook the double green 9/18 and the course
is popular with both beginners and experienced gol fers.
Includes indoor driving ranges, and an indoor simulator
open when the outdoor course is closed for the season.
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Outdoor Attractions & Parks
AeroPlatform (Balon Widokowy) B-7, Bulwar
Woyski, tel. (+48) 511 80 22 02, www.hiflyer.pl.
I f you find yoursel f across from Wawel on the opposi te
banks of the Vi stul a Ri ver and fancy a sl i ghtl y more
adrenali ne-pumpi ng way to a panorami c vi ew, take a
sceni c ri de in this massi ve ball oon. Rising to a hei ght
of up to 150 meters, youll have about fi fteen minutes
to snap photos and overcome your acrophobia. Possi bl y
in a move to appease some of the cri ti cs who consi der
i t an eyesore, the ball oon has I l ove Poland and I l ove
Krakow wri tten on opposi te si des of i t i n enormous
Polish wri ting. Come well before dusk, bring your student
card i f youve got one and youll be hard-pressed to find
a better view of Krakow. Q Open from 10:00 till dusk.
Note that the balloon may not be able to fly in bad
weather. Call in advance if there is any doubt. Ad-
mission: Mon-Fri 38/20z, students wi th proper ID 25z,
famil y ti cket 90z. Sat-Sun 45z, famil y ti cket 100z (no
student discounts on weekends).
Botani cal Garden J- 2, ul . Koperni ka 27, tel .
(+48) 12 663 36 35, www.ogrod.uj.edu.pl. Covering
al most 10 hectares, Pol ands ol dest botani cal gardens
date from 1783 and of fer a deci dedl y rel axi ng dayti me
escape from the ci ty. Extensi ve fl ora-fi l l ed paths wi nd
between fountai ns, herb and rose gardens, l i l l ypadded
ponds, and a 250-year-ol d oak tree - the last remnant of
pri meval forests whi ch once covered the enti re regi on.
A humi d greenhouse hi des al l manner of exoti c fl ora,
i ncl udi ng a macabre col l ecti on of carni vorous pl ants,
whi l e a seri es of outdoor cl assi cal musi c concer ts
takes pl ace i n the warmer months. A great pl ace for
romanti c rendezvous or fi ndi ng some peace and qui et.
Q Open 09: 00 - 19: 00. Greenhouses open 10: 00 -
18:00. Cl osed Fri. Admi ssi on 6/3z. 12z fami l y ti cket
avai l abl e on weekends.
Krakw Beach (Plaa Krakw) I- 4, ul. Ludwin-
owska 2, tel. (+48) 530 95 03 03, www.plazakrakow.
com.pl. Featuring 10,000 metres of sand spread out
across a stretch of the riverbank on the Dbniki side be-
tween Grunwaldzki Bridge (B-7) and the building formerly
known as the Forum Hotel (I-4), Krakow Plaa (beach) has
become party central when the sun is out. Terri fic views
of Wawel Castl e form the backdrop to a mul ti -faceted
venue which offers said beach where you can play beach
football and volleyball, a 25 by 8 metre swimming pool
hollowed into the hull of a boat docked just offshore and
a large childrens playground. Throughout the day pick
up a cocktail or iced coffee from the attached open-air
cafe-bar or a meal at the surprisingly good restaurant,
Plaa Krakw (see Restaurants). After the sun goes down,
Plaa Krakw turns into more of a club, with Wednesday
salsa parties a particular standout. The easiest way to
get there is gather eight people together and take the free
ferry from the foot of Wawel. Li fes a beach. Q Open from
April 20. Swimming pool 20z/per hour. Volleyball courts
should be booked in advance between 10:00 and 20:00,
after which they are free.
Kryspinw Liszki, tel. (+48) 12 292 75 53, www.
kryspinow.com.pl. Krakws favouri te summer sun
destination is this arti fi cial beach at Kryspinw Lagoon.
As such it can be incredibl y crowded on sunny weekends.
12 km away and well -connected to Krakw, Kryspinw
features li feguarded swimming areas, water sports rental
equipment, wi ndsur fing and wakeboarding instruction
(availabl e in English), water sli des, playgrounds, a ropes
course, beach voll eyball and a few eating options. The
Hawana Bar also makes i t a popular party destination,
organi si ng numerous events throughout the season.
To get there take buses 209 or 269 from the Sal wator
tram roundabout to the Kryspinw Zal ew stop. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00. Passes 12/6z, famil y ti ckets 20z. Car
parking 10z.
Bonia Meadow G-3. A massive and inexplicably
undeveloped tract of greenery directly west of the Old
Town, the Bonia is a huge, triangular open space mea-
suring nearly 50 hectares. Technically a park, although
lacking any trees or other defining characteristics, the
Polish name Bonie denotes a meadow - something of
an amiable linguistic redressing of the Bonias true and
unchanged historical function: its a cow pasture. The
areas ability to survive to modern times as the largest
city centre open space in Europe can be accredited to a
perfect storm of boggy undesirability, a centuries-long
ownership dispute, and finally a medieval legislative
wrinkle. Used by locals to graze cattle even midway into
the 20th century, when the now-defunct Cracovia Hotel
was built next to it in 1965 the city moved to permanently
ban unfashionable bovines from the Bonia, only to find
themselves obstructed by an apparently still legally
binding 14th century decree by Queen Jadwiga which
they would have to sort out with Warsaw. Warsaw not
being the most cooperative or expedient bureaucratic
partner in those times, city council decided to stick with
the status quo, making it perfectly acceptable for you to
air old Bessie on the Bonia to this day. Though a great
idea for a city-wide one day annual event (called Bovines
on the Bonia, tell the mayor to get in touch with my
agent for more details), these days youll find the green
triangle has primarily become the favourite leisure space
of dogs and their frisbee chasing, ball playing owners,
while the perimeter is a popular track for cycling, running
and roller-blading. Protected as a National Heritage Site
since 2000, the Bonia is ideal for large-scale outdoor
events, hosting numerous concerts, rallies and - most
notably - historic open air masses by the Pope during
his visits to Krakw.
Bonia Meadow
Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre
E- 4, ul. Dietla 103/2, tel. (+48)
12 422 65 49, www.tajskimasaz.
pl. Authentic Thai massages: improve
blood and limphatic circulation, re-
lease physical and mental tension,
strengthen the immune system, improve flexibility of
joints, remove toxins. Performed solely by highly qualified
Thai masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in Bangkok.
The offer: Classical Thai massage, Herbal compresses,
Relaxing massage with essential oils, Massage for
the physically active, Feetnlegs reflexology, Back &
shoulders & head massage etc. Receive a 10% discount
when you present In Your Pocket. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
Massages 100-300z.
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SHOPPING
124
SHOPPING
While Krakw cannot be considered a shoppers paradise in the
traditional sense, its artsy reputation makes it a great place to
pick up antiques, artwork and jewellery. Areas of note include
Kazimerz and the open air markets - particularly Plac Targowy
(Hala Targowa, E-4). For typical Cracovian souvenirs head to
the Cloth Hall in the centre of the main square (C-3): find all
manner of glasswork, lace, amber, wood carvings, local sweets
and stuffed dragons. For the generic western experience you
can hit one of the shopping malls we list, however throughout
this section weve made a concentrated effort to focus not on
recognised, international brands and franchises, but unique,
home-grown businesses; so we encourage you to put your
money where their mouth is. As this is PL, remember most
shops close early on Saturday and take Sunday off altogether.
Alcohol & Tobacco
Nothing says, Ive been to Poland like a suitcase of vodka (and
maybe a dodgy moustache). The Poles have been distilling and
draining vodka since the early Middle Ages, and Poland can
make a legitimate claim as the spirits primordial homeland. As
such, you should put it at the top of your souvenir list, even if
its not to your taste. You cant walk a block in this city without
passing a church and an alcohol shop, so youve you r choice
of temples. Belvedere and Chopin are the elite brands youll
find in fancy gift sets, but dont miss ubrwka (bison grass
vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey vodka), odkowa Gorzka
(bitter stomach vodka) and Goldwasser with its signature
gold flakes. Thats quite a shopping list.
Szambelan C-3, ul. Gobia 2 (entrance from ul. Bracka
9), tel. (+48) 12 628 70 93, www.szambelan.pl. Huge se-
lection of special vodkas, meads and Polish absinths decanted
from enormous erlenmeyer flasks. The exotic bottles make for
ideal last minute gifts which they can ship for you, or go ghetto
fab by refilling a plastic bottle and stuffing it in your luggage
(or strolling the Planty). Sample first, sample often. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 20:30, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Vinoteka 13 C-3, Rynek Gwny 13 (Pasa 13), tel.
(+48) 12 617 02 50, www.lhr.com.pl. An elite and elabo-
rate selection of wines from all over Italy. Attached is Bar
13, where you can sample a vast majority of them. QOpen
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Amber & Jewellery
Herbal vodka isnt the only golden nectar popular in Poland.
Poland is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who
handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted
pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing baby
some Baltic Gold and youve booked yourself a stint in the dog-
house. The best place to begin is the Cloth Hall in the center
of the market square, where prices are surprisingly competi-
tive, or visit any of the many galleries around the Old Town.
Boruni Amber Inspirations C-5, ul. Grodzka 60, tel.
(+48) 12 423 10 81, www.boruni.pl. Also inside the Cloth
Hall (C-3, stand numbers 23, 29, 36) and in Crown Piast Hotel
(ul. Radzikowskiego 109). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Pandora C-4, ul. Grodzka 38, tel. (+48) 12 430 21 55,
www.pandora.net. This exclusive Danish brand offers high-
quality silver, gold, crystal and gem jewellery for women. Of
note is their popular pendant bracelet which allows custom-
ers to personalise their wrist accessory by choosing from
Pandoras large collection of original pendants, and change
them according to their mood. Also in Galeria Krakowska
(ul. Pawia 5, D-1, open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
World of Amber C-4, ul. Grodzka 38, tel. (+48) 12
430 21 14, www.worldofamber.pl. Also at ul. Floriaska
13 and 22 (C-3), ul. Powile 7 (A-5, Sheraton Krakw), and
ul. Kamieskiego 11 (Bonarka City Center). QOpen 09:00
- 20:00.
Art & Antiques
Art abounds in Krakw, and in addition to the galleries
proliferating the Old Town, local artists shop their work to
tourists right on the market square, and along ul. Pijarska
on either side of the Floriaska Gate (C/D-2). Remember, if
you are taking original art that is more than 50 years old and
of a potentially high value, youll need the proper paperwork
and permissions (see Customs, under Basics). Most proper
dealers can provide this straight-away, but you may want to
check before opening your wallet. Below we list the most
interesting commercial art galleries in town; see the Culture
section for more cultural art gallery listings.
There is no shortage of possibilities for purchasing antiques
in Krakw. Serious shoppers will find that the best items
end up in the antique stores (Antyki, Antykwariat) that
abound all over Kazimierz and the Old Town with one of the
best places to prowl for lost treasure being ulica Jzefa
(D/E-6) in Kazimierz. Knowledgeable dealers offer prices
comparable to those in the rest of Europe, however there
are still bargains aplenty in the citys markets if your inter-
est is more in finding an odd souvenir while having a unique
cultural experience than finding an undervalued 19th century
artefact. Plac Nowy (D-6) is home to daily junk-peddlers, but
the real bounty is revealed during Plac Targowys Sunday
morning flea market (E-4) where every piece of trash has a
price and haggling is compulsory.
Andrzej Mleczko Gallery C-2, ul. w. Jana 14, tel.
(+48) 12 421 71 04, www.sklep.mleczko.pl. These anti-
establishment, often blasphemous, damn funny cartoons
by Polands favourite cartoonist Andrzej Mleczko are bound
to remind you of someone you know (if you speak Polish,
that is). Ideal for Polish friends and family, here you can buy
prints, mugs, shirts, underwear, mouse pads and more.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Gal eri a Pl akatu (Poster Gal l er y) C- 3, ul .
Stolarska 8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 26 40, www.
cracowpostergallery.com. Poland has a proud tradi -
tion of graphi c poster art for film and theatre. Here you
can browse binders of desi gns for di f ferent plays, vari -
ous propaganda and al ternati ve film posters you never
knew existed for your favouri te fli cks. Many are in stock
and many more availabl e to order. They make fantasti c
gi fts and keepsakes, or go cheap by buying a stack of
unusual postcards. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00
- 14:00. Cl osed Sun.
Krakowski Antykwari at Naukowy C- 2, ul .
Sawkowska 6/8, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 43, www.
antkrak.krakow.pl. The qui ntessenti al Cracovi an
anti que bookshop ( ant ykwari at ), t hi s out f i t buys
and sel l s ol d pri nts, maps, graphi c ar t, manuscri pts,
postcards, books, l etters and more. Ri ng the bel l and
head upstai rs. QOpen 10: 00 - 18: 00, Sat 10: 00 -
14: 00. Cl osed Sun.
Salon Antykw Pasja B-3, ul. Jagielloska 9, tel.
(+48) 12 429 10 96, www.antykwariat-pasja.pl. One
of the best in town, specialising in furniture, porcelain, paint-
ings, jewellery. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Below weve tried to identify some uniquely Polish (and/
or Cracovian) gift ideas for everyone on your list:
Girlfriend/Wife: Two words: jewellery and chocolate.
For the first choose a beautiful piece of Baltic gold from
World of Amber, and for the second head to Karmello
or Cracow Chocolate Factory for some local sweets
that are both artistic and delicious.
Boyfriend/Husband: If you really want to spoil your
man, head to Wittchen and outfi t him in a luxury
leather jacket, or perhaps something more practical
and affordable like a hand-made wallet. If hubby has a
taste for tipples, turn him on to Polish vodka brands like
ubrwka or Goldwasser, or head to Szambelan where
you can decant one of their exclusive meads, absinthes
or flavoured vodkas into a handsome gift bottle.
Mother: Amber always wins with women, so stop at
World of Amber to pick out a pendant mom will be proud
to wear. All moms also love Bolesawiec folk pottery, so
head to Dekor Art.
Father: As a man matures he needs a good hat, no? The
Chory Czapki i Kapelusze hatmakers workshop
has a surprisingly stylish assortment of hand-made
hats that would look great on Dad. Or try Krakowski
Antykwariat Naukowy for something old, odd and
aesthetic that might be more Dads style. If that fails, try
what the Poles do when things arent working out: vodka.
Sister: The appeal of amber will hold true for any woman
on your list, or try the natural, monk-made lotions and
cosmetics of Produkty Benedyktyskie. If sis is a bit of
a bookworm, head to Massolits Polish literature section
to pick out something of local interest.
Brother: For home boy hit Idea Fix and peruse their
collection of locally designed hoodies, t-shirts and other
urban gear. I f your brothers more of an intellectual,
search for a unique 3-player chess set, or fine-crafted
wooden traditional chessboard in the stalls of the Cloth
Hall. If the young mans an artist, pick out an avant-garde
Polish film or theatre poster from the vast collection at
Galeria Plakatu.
Children: Historically, childhood innocence hasnt been
a very long-lived developmental stage amongst Poles.
Apparently a privilege of the rich, what few toys there are
for sale in PL are outrageously expensive compared to ev-
erything else. If the kids are infants, head straight to Bajo
for some stylishly wholesome and locally-made wooden
toys, or Galeria Bukowski for a Cracovian teddy bear.
Grandparents: The land of babcias has plenty that will
please the old folks back home, including linen and lace-
work from the Cloth Hall, Bolesawiec folk ceramic from
Dekor Art, local jarred foodstuffs from Krakowski Kre-
dens, or a Krakw photo album from House of Albums.
Gift Shopping At a Glance
FACTORY Outlet ul. Roaskiego 32, Modlniczka,
tel. (+48) 12 297 35 00, www.factory.pl. 15 minutes
from the city centre, this outlet mall features 120 foreign
and domestic brands including Levis, Reserved, Calze-
donia, Gino Rossi, Benetton, Wittchen, Solar, Simple and
many more. You can get there by catching a free bus
from Grunwaldzki Bridge (B-7) or Rondo Matecznego (I-5).
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Galeria Kazimierz J-3, ul. Podgrska 34, tel. (+48)
12 433 01 01, www.galeriakazimierz.pl. Opened in
2005, the success of Galeria Kazimierz marked another
step in Krakws economic renaissance and rated as the
areas most prestigious mall before the over-blown open-
ing of Bonarka. Still the most likeable shopping centre in
town, GK boasts over 130 retail units including media
giants EMPiK and Euro RTV AGD, fashion outfitters H&M,
Zara, Simple, Mango, Bershka, Stradivarius and KappAhl,
cosmetic specialists Sephora, and revered jewellers W.
Kruk, Pandora and Swarovski. The Alma supermarket
offers Krakws premier selection of food and beverages,
while those preferring a sit down meal can choose from
the American-themed Jeffs or Pizza Hut. For recreational
needs Galeria Kazimierz also touts a ten screen Cinema
City complex with a fitness club underneath it. Situated
next to the Kazimierz district the mall is easily accessed on
foot; those arriving by car have 1,600 free parking spaces
to pick from. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Galeria Krakowska D-1, ul. Pawia 5, tel. (+48)
12 428 99 07, www.galeria-krakowska.pl. Covering
60,000 square metres over three floors, if you arrived
in the centre by train its unlikely you missed this place:
a huge glass and steel shopping Mecca opposite the old
station building, which as malls go makes it one of the most
centrally located in Europe. GK has helped contribute to
the regeneration of an area that once was home to dodgy
dwellings and dealings, and now has a new square and train
platform access. Stores housed here include H&M, Peek &
Cloppenburg, electronics giant Saturn, an enormous Carre-
four supermarket and over 260 other retail units, 1400 car
parking spaces, an entertainment centre and restaurants.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Pasa 13 C-3, Rynek Gwny 13, tel. (+48) 12
617 02 27, www.lhr.com.pl. This gorgeous old Rynek
townhouse was converted into a snazzy shopping area in
2005 to become the first branch of the trademark Likus
Concept Stores. Not your typical shopping mall, Pasa
13 has 17 designer shops including Dolce&Gabbana,
Vero Moda and Miss Sixty. Youll also find a fine Italian
delikatessen and bar (U Louisa) in the cellar. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. While all other shops
in Pasa 13 open at 11:00, Delikatesy 13 and Bar 13
are open from 09:00.
Shopping Malls
PLs famous Bolesawiec pottery.
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SHOPPING
127
SHOPPING
enormous 2-fl oor ol d-school chocolati er that includes
an immaculate shop/showroom and upstairs cafe. Wi th
deli cious handmade treats in every direction - truf fl es,
pralines, chocolate bars, postcards, fi gurines and more
- Cracow Chocolate Factory per fectl y captures that ki d
i n a candyshop exci tement, and is great for dodgi ng
the rain, spoiling the sweet tooth of a date or pi cking up
souvenirs. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Delikatesy 13 C-3, Rynek Gwny 13 (Pasa 13), tel.
(+48) 12 617 02 27, www.lhr.com.pl. Located in the
basement of Krakws nicest most central shopping mall,
this Italian delicatessen offers a wide range of high-quality
edible goods including over 100 varieties of Italian cheese
and meats, parma ham, truffles, cooking oils and balsamic
vinagrettes, as well as delicious locally-made preservative
free honeys and jams. Pies, pastries and cakes are also
made daily. With the sheer volume of outstanding goods,
Delikatessy 13 is probably one of the most dangerous places
you can take your wallet when youre hungry. QOpen 09:00
- 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.
Karmello C-4, Pl. Wszystkich witych 11, tel. (+48)
12 422 03 72, www.karmello.pl. The chocolate shop
to end all chocolate shops, Karmello is Krakws most ex-
quisite spot for indulging the sweet tooth. Several stunning
display cases practically sparkle with over 50 varieties of
exclusively-crafted chocolates, plus truffles, chocolate bars,
candied chocolate-dipped fruit and other specialties. Perfect
for picking up a nice gift in a pinch, or get them personalised
in advance. So amazing it must be...Italian? Belgian? Swiss?
Nope, Karmello actually hails from Bielsko-Biaa - about
90mins southwest of Krakw in Silesia. Also at ul. Floriaska
38 (C-2). QOpen 06:00 - 23:00, Mon 06:00 - 22:00.
the prices are the best youll find anywhere. This legendary
establishment has been long-running but constantly needs
and deserves support. Still if youre on a budget you can
trade the novel you finished on the train for credit towards
a new one. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00.
Fashion & Accessories
International designer clothing and fashion brands can be
found in Krakws shopping malls. High quality Polish brands
include Reserved, Vistula and Tatuum. All over Krakw
youll find secondhand clothing stores marked Tania Odzie
(Cheap Clothes). These stores range in quality, from items
sorted in dishevelled bins to others on actual hangers; many
are priced by weight and all have that distinctive embalmed
babcia (granny) smell. A weekly clothing market also occurs
Sundays on Plac Nowy (D-6).
Chory Czapki i Kapelusze D-7, ul. Krakowska
35a, tel. (+48) 608 28 26 31, www.czapkichorazy.
prv.pl. Maybe you arent aware, but Polish old man hats
are surprisingly stylish and this family shop is where to get
one. Affectionately known as the Hat Guy, give Jzef the
hatmaker a head and hell hand you a handsome, perfectly
fitting hat. Bring in your own fabric and hell even custom
make one for you. With Jzefs name and his shops Cracovian
address sewn into each one, these hats make a great gift
and keepsake; evidence of a world that is rapidly vanishing.
And theyre a bargain. Jzef doesnt speak English, but there
shouldnt be much mystery between the two of you; its not
like youre trying to draft legislation - its a hat, hes a hat guy.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
IDEA FIX Concept Store E-7, ul. Bocheska 7, tel.
(+48) 12 422 12 46, www.ideafix.pl. The idea here is
promoting contemporary, young, independent Polish artists
and designers - and for once were not talking about painted
angels or folk pottery. This shop is straight Soho (NYC) with
an alternative urban chic style and attitude that will hope-
fully encourage Krakws hundreds of DJs to pick up their
duds somewhere other than H&M. Championing sustain-
able consumption, drop in this expansive and sexy 230m2
concept store just off Plac Wolnica to check out clothing and
accessories by independent local designers, Polish films and
music, Polish fibre arts, interior design and more. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Wittchen D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska), tel.
(+48) 518 02 27 66, www.wittchen.com. One of Polands
top luxury brands, Wittchen creates high-quality hand-made
leather goods, including shoes, jackets, hand bags, gloves,
wallets, luggage and more. Each comes with a hologramed
Certificate of Authenticity proving its the real deal. Carried
at many shops around Krakw, visit one of the shopping
malls to see their company showroom. Also at ul. Podgrska
34 (J-3, Galeria Kazimierz) and ul. Kamieskiego 11 (Bonarka
City Center). QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Food & Sweets
Ciasteczka z Krakowa C-3, ul. w. Tomasza 21, tel.
(+48) 12 423 22 27, www.ciasteczkazkrakowa.pl. Local
sweets shop superpower selling cookies, cakes, chocolates,
wafers, pralines, truffles and fudge with a lovely cafe for
coffee or tea. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
Cracow Chocolate Factory B- 3, ul. Szewska 7,
tel. (+48) 502 09 07 65, www.chocolate.krakow.
pl. Wal l -l ength street-front wi ndows wi th a vi ew i nto
the Wonka-esque workshop l ure touri sts i nsi de thi s
kYNk GtOWNY 13, kkAkOW
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MAIN MAkkI SQUAk 13, kkAkOW
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Krakowski Kredens C-3, ul. Grodzka 7, tel. (+48)
696 49 00 12, www.krakowskikredens.pl. An ol d-
fashioned dry goods store of expensi ve, yet exquisi te,
Galician delicacies - including jams, honeys, liquors, cured
meats, candies and pickled things. A warm roll with their
sliced pork and mustard from the streetside window is
a gourmet street food bargain at only 5-9z (depending
on weight), while we can also recommend the black pud-
ding (kaszanka) and the pork hock (golonka). Also at ul.
Kamiskiego 11 (Bonarka City Center) ul. Pawia 5 (D-1,
Galeria Krakowska) and the airport. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,
Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Produkty Benedyktyskie (Benedictine Prod-
ucts) D-6, ul. Krakowska 29, tel. (+48) 12 422 02 16,
www.benedicite.pl. This shop, set up by the Benedictine
monks of Tyniec Abbey, sells such an astounding variety of
products - cheese, jam, wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups,
meats - it raises two eyebrows over how they find the time.
All the products are completely natural, without pigment,
and unilaterally excellent and make excellent gifts and can
even be purchased through their multilingual website. Also
at Tyniec Abbey. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun.
Sodki Wierzynek C-3, Rynek Gwny 15, tel. (+48)
12 424 96 00, www.wierzynek.pl. Great for gifts, in this
classic cafe and sweets shop youll find a plethora of pricey,
but gourmet, chocolates, caramels, bon-bons, cakes and
biscuits alongside traditional Polish liquors and meads.
Some snazzy gift boxes are available for the aesthetically-
obsessed; try the edible box made of chocolate if youre
determined to go kitsch shopping on the Rynek. QOpen
09:00 - 23:00.
Books, Music & Film
American Bookstore E-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria
Krakowska), tel. (+48) 12 628 75 73, www.american-
bookstore.pl. Your best bet outside cyberspace for getting
the latest Harry Potter book, Grisham thriller or Stephen
King creeper in its original language, this small store in the
Galeria is generally preoccupied with the bestsellers list.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Austeria E-6, ul. Jzefa 38 (High Synagogue), tel. (+48)
12 430 68 89, www.austeria.pl. Situated in the historical
High Synagogue, Austeria is the largest Jewish bookstore
in Krakw, offering literature, history, guide books and
more in a number of languages, plus music CDs and tourist
information. Upstairs is a gallery space showing revolving
historical exhibits related to Judaica in Krakw. Admission to
the exhibit, 9/6z. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 19.00.
Empik Megastore C-3, Rynek Gwny 5, tel. (+48)
22 451 04 68, www.empik.com. Right on the market
square, Empik is a veri table one-stop shop for books,
music, films, video games and more. A sizeable collection
of English-language periodicals lives on the ground floor,
though the price mark-ups can be shocking; read them in
the cafe upstairs. On the upper floors youll find guide books,
maps and an English language fiction section, as well as
video game consoles for rainy days. The basement houses
a generally shabby, but also totally unpredictable selection
of overpriced CDs and here you can also buy tickets to
major concerts and festivals in PL. Also at ul. Podgrska
34 (J-3, Galeria Kazimierz), ul. Kamieskiego 11 (Bonarka
Ci ty Centre) and ul. Pawia 5 (D-1, Galeria Krakowska).
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
House Of Albums A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 17, tel. (+48)
12 429 13 63, www.houseofalbums.pl. Exclusively selling
handsome (though expensive) coffeetable books, many of
which are in English, this is the best place to buy photography
books which will prove to everyone back home how beautiful
PL is. Also a great place to kill time on a rainy day as everyone
seems to use it more like a library than a bookshop. Who
knew they even had coffeetables in PL? QOpen 11:00 -
19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Ksigarnia Hetmaska C- 3, Rynek Gwny 17,
tel. (+48) 12 430 24 53. Pasa Hetmaska is home
to several shops, including a Polish-language bookstore,
a record store which also sells posters, patches, t-shirts
and other musi c paraphrenal i a, as wel l of pl enty of
other souvenir vendors. To your ri ght as you enter is a
bookshop selling books in English (and a small sel ection
in German), as well as maps, posters and an unneces-
sary amount of puzzl es. Though hardl y expansi ve, the
book sel ection is the best on the market square - and
certainl y better than youll find in EMPiK, particularl y wi th
regards to Polish and Jewish li terature. Gui debooks also
availabl e and the pri ces are fair. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 11:00 - 21:00.
Massolit Books & Caf A-4, ul. Felicjanek 4, tel.
(+48) 12 432 41 50, www.massolit.com. The best
English-language bookstore in Central Europe, owing in
large part to its unique cafe atmosphere. With books on all
subjects and specialising in Polish, East European and Jewish
literature in English, here youll also find recent English lan-
guage periodicals (store copies) to peruse over coffee and a
slice of pie, or even a glass of wine. Stocked with remaindered
books from the States, the selection is surprisingly good, and
129
DIRECTORY
128
SHOPPING
Krakws open-air markets are the best places to
get cheap l ocal produce and the onl y places in the
centre where you can buy vegetabl es that aren t
whi te. Add to that meats, cheeses, spi ces, baked
goods, doorknobs, dog l eashes, pagers, pothol d-
ers and li terall y anything else you can think of and
youve got yoursel f a ni fty cul tural experi ence as
well. In addi tion to the l egendary Cloth Hall on the
market square (C-3, open 10:00-19:00), practi ce
your Prosz and point skills at the unique shopping
environments listed bel ow.
Keep in mind that while haggling might work at Plac
Targowys Sunday flea market, its uselessly rude at any
of the daily market stalls. Expecting vendors to break a
100 zoty note will also be met with utter disdain.
Plac Nowy D-6, tel. (+48) 12 422 25 59, www.
placnowy.pl. This historic square was a Jewish market
in the pre-war days, with its rotunda serving as a kosher
slaughterhouse. Today youll still find butcher shops
inside, while fast food windows line the exterior. In the
open trading stalls surrounding the roundhouse produce
and junk are sold daily. Its a different, often unpredictable
scene on the square each morning, but Saturdays are
generally reserved for more junk/antiques and Sundays
for clothing, while Tuesday and Friday mornings its a
full-on rabbit swap and pigeon fair - one of the most
bizarre spectacles you can possibly witness if you arrive
early enough (ends about 8:00). Markets begin around
5:30 in the morning and generally end by early to mid-
afternoon depending. In the evenings, Plac Nowy turns
into one of the best drinking destinations in town, lined
with atmospheric bars.
Plac Targowy Unitarg
E- 4, ul. Grzegrzecka,
tel. (+48) 12 429 61 55,
www.unitarg.krakow.
pl. The citys best outdoor
market, Hala Targowa is
open every day for every-
thing from frui t, fl owers
and produce to pirated DVDs, dodgy underwear and
cheap wristwatches. Morning is the best time to come
and Sunday is undoubtedly the best day of the week to
hit the stalls, when it becomes a full-blown sprawling
flea market of Old World antiques, Catholic icons, village
detritus, vinyl records, war memorabilia, mismatched
shoes, stolen bikes and pretty much anything you can
dream of at bargain prices. Different vendors set their
own hours, but most are there at dawn and packing up
between 14:00 and 15:00. At night on Plac Targowy youll
find a 24 hour alcky shop and the best grilled kielbasa in
town, sold from a van.
Stary Kleparz C/D-1, Rynek Kleparski 20, tel.
(+48) 12 634 15 32, www.starykleparz.com. A
tradition of over 800 years, this large, covered, open-air
marketplace just north of the Barbakan offers bargain
prices and the best selection in the city for local produce,
fruit, meat and cheeses, in addition to spices, socks,
sweaters and whatever oddball commodities are the
order of the day during your visit. They say they are
open until 17:00, but most stalls will have closed up
much earlier. QOpen 06:00 - 18:00, Sun 07:00 - 16:00.
Markets Gifts & Souvenirs
Its only natural to want to bring something back home from
your time in Poland, as well as prove to those who have no
idea where the country is that it does indeed exist. Also, if
you plan on visiting or staying with a Polish family while here
its common courtesy to arrive with a gift. While there are
chintzy souvenir shops all over the Old Town, the Mecca of
them all is the centuries old Cloth Hall (C-3, open 10:00-
19:00) in the middle of the market square. Essentially a huge
souvenir market, in the packed stalls youll find all sorts of
Polish keepsakes including amber jewellery, carved wood,
lace and cloth handicrafts and more. For a tourist market
the quality is surprisingly high and the prices generally fair,
so theres no shame in shopping there. Below weve listed
more unique local or national Polish businesses where you
can find attractive gifts and feel good about how you are
spending your money at the same time.
Bajo C-5, ul. Grodzka 60, tel. (+48) 12 429 14 42,
www.bajo.eu. Founded by sculptor, architect, and Jagiel-
lonian University professor Woj ciech Bajor, this company
aims to create natural toys for natural play, without any
of the flashing lights or button-pushing that kids of the
computer age are already overl y inundated wi th these
days. Ranging from colourful vehicles and animals to edu-
cational blocks, all of Bajos toys are artistically designed
entirely out of wood. Ideal for infants and young children
and entirely Cracovian. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 16:00.
Dekor Art C-2, ul. Sawkowska 11, tel. (+48) 12 284
15 67. The tag team of Dekor Art and Mila across the
street make ul. Sawkowska Krakws official Bolesawiec
shopping corridor. I f youre not familiar with this well-loved
folk ceramic brand, head here straightaway to get intro-
duced. Crammed full of colourful dishware with simple,
hand-painted and hi ghl y-recognisabl e folk moti fs, this
bargain shop is sure to help you make someone on your
list happy. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun
11:00 - 16:00.
Galeria Bukowski C-3, ul. Sienna 1, tel. (+48) 12
433 88 55, www.galeriabukowski.pl. A Polish-owned
worldwide teddy bear kingdom; Polish Paddington needs
a home. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Mon, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Kacper Ryx C-3, Pl. Mariacki 3, tel. +48 12 426 45
49, www.kacperryx.pl. One of Krakws most interesting
gi ft stores, this small historical shop skips the kitsch,
instead offering a wide variety of high-quality, hand-made,
history-based craft work. Enter via the same door as the
Hipolit House museum, and step into what a gi ft shop
may have looked like centuries ago, if there were such a
thing: shelves and tables stocked with swords, armour and
weaponry; leather flasks, pouches and bags; historical wood-
prints and archaeological replicas; beer steins, goblets and
pottery; cowls, dresses and other medieval apparel. Prices
are fair and items are nicer than much of what youll find in
the Cloth Hall. Recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun
12:00 - 17:00.
Rock Shop C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429
11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. You know a city
has made it when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe and is there
anything which says Ive been there more than a Hard
Rock Cafe t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the Krakw one to add
to your collection at the shop inside the HRC opposite St
Marys Church. Classic white costs 99z, black costs 105z.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
Medi cover K- 3, ul . Podgrska 36, tel . (+48)
500 900 500, www.medicover.pl. Also ul. Bora Ko-
morowskiego 25B (Prdnik Czerwony), ul. Bobrzyskiego
37 (Dbniki).
Real Estate
Hamilton May A-3, ul. Cybulskiego 2, tel. (+48) 12
426 51 26, www.hamiltonmay.pl.
Komercel A-1, ul. Karmelicka 48/3a, tel. (+48) 501
48 94 93, www.komercel.pl.
Mamdom, www.mamdom.com.
Ober - Haus Real Estate Advi sor s C- 2, ul .
Sawkowska 10, tel. (+48) 12 428 17 00, www.ober-
haus.pl.
Religious Services
Christ the King Church (Chrystus Krlem) K-2, ul.
Mogilska 43, tel. (+48) 509 50 16 39, www.kchk.pl.
Kupa Synagogue D-6, ul. Warszauera 8 (entrance
from Miodowa).
St. Giles Church (Koci w. Idziego) C-5, ul.
Grodzka 67, www.krakow.dominikanie.pl. Q Holy Mass
in English each Sunday at 10:30.
Translators & Interpreters
Anton Fecica B-2, ul. Dunajewskiego 8/11, tel. (+48)
12 422 73 37, www.fecica.pl.
Lingua Expert C-3, ul. Mikoajska 5/9, tel. (+48) 12
421 06 63, www.linguaexpert.pl.
Changing money in Krakw is increasingly less fretful to
do, but it is still worth checking and comparing exchange
rates, particularly at entry points such as airports and
in major tourist areas. Here we check the rates of a
selection of money exchange offices (kantors) every
two months. Below were their buying rates (how many
zoty you would get for one unit of foreign currency) for
19.03.13 compared to the following rates published by
the National Bank of Poland (NBP) for that morning: Euro
1 = 4.1095z, US $1 = 3.1729z, GBP 1 = 4.7985z.
Currency Express ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1 (Air-
port, International Departures), tel. (+48) 12 639
32 58, www.currency-express.com. 1 Euro = 3.52z,
1 Dollar = 2.69z, 1 Pound = 4.06z. No commission.
Currency Express ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1
(Airport, International Arrivals), tel. (+48) 12 639
32 57, www.currency-express.com. 1 Euro = 3.50z,
1 Dollar = 2.67z, 1 Pound = 4.09z. No commission.
Eurokantor B-3, ul. Szewska 21, tel. (+48) 12
421 55 65. 1 Euro = 4.11z, 1 Dollar = 3.17z, 1 Pound
= 4.77z. No commission.
Kantor J-3, ul. Podgrska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz),
tel. (+48) 535 70 08 04. 1 Euro = 4.11z, 1 Dollar =
3.16z, 1 Pound = 4.80z. No commission.
Kantor C-1, ul. Duga 8, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 55,
www.kantor.krakow.pl. 1 Euro = 4.12z, 1 Dollar =
3.17z, 1 Pound = 4.79z. No commission.
Kantor D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska), tel.
(+48) 515 12 58 84, www.kantor-exchange.pl. 1
Euro = 4.11z, 1 Dollar = 3.17z, 1 Pound = 4.80z. No
commission.
Currency Exchange
24hr Pharmacies
Apteka Dbam o Zdrowie I-5, ul. Kalwaryjska 94, tel.
(+48) 12 656 18 50, www.doz.pl.
Apteka Galla H-1, ul. Galla 26, tel. (+48) 12 636
73 65.
Apteka Pod Opatrznoci B-2, ul. Karmelicka 23,
tel. (+48) 12 631 19 80.
Consulates & Embassies
Austria H-2, ul. Krupnicza 42, tel. (+48) 12 424 99
30, www.aussenministerium.at/krakaugk. Consular
Department, ul. Cybulskiego 9 (A-9), tel. (+48) 12 424 99 40.
Denmark B-3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
Finland B-3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
Germany C-3, ul. Stolarska 7, tel. (+48) 12 424 30 00,
www.krakau.diplo.de.
Iceland B-3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
Instytut Francuski C-4, ul. Stolarska 15, tel. (+48)
12 424 53 50, institutfrancais.pl.
Japan I-2, ul. Grabowskiego 5/3, tel. (+48) 12 633 43
59, www.pl.emb-japan.go.jp.
Mexico ul. Wiedeska 72 (Bronowice), tel. (+48) 12
638 05 58.
Norway H-1, ul. Mazowiecka 25, tel. (+48) 12 633 03
76, www.amb-norwegia.pl.
Russia B-1, ul. Biskupia 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 26 47,
www.rusemb.pl.
Slovakia D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 425
49 70, www.cgcracow.mfa.sk.
Sweden B-3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
UK ul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00,
www.ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk.
Ukraine K-2, Al. Beliny-Pramowskiego 4, tel. (+48)
12 429 60 66, www.plk.internetdsl.pl.
USA C-3, ul. Stolarska 9, tel. (+48) 12 424 51 00,
krakow.usconsulate.gov.
Dentists
Denta-Med J- 4, ul. Na Zjedzie 13, tel. (+48) 12
259 80 00, www.denta-med.com.pl. Open 24hrs for
emergencies.
Emergency Room
5 Wojskowy Szpital Kliniczny I-1, ul. Wrocawska
1-3, tel. (+48) 12 630 81 40, www.5wszk.com.pl.
Szpital Uniwersytecki J-2, ul. Kopernika 21, tel.
(+48) 12 424 82 77, www.su.krakow.pl.
Genealogy
Registry Office (Urzd Stanu Cywilnego) I-1,
ul. Lubelska 27, tel. (+48) 12 616 55 19, www.bip.
krakow.pl.
Private Clinics
Ars Medica D-1, ul. Warszawska 17, tel. (+48) 12 423
38 34, www.ars-medica.pl.
Lux-Med I-5, ul. Wadowicka 6, tel. (+48) 22 33 22
888, www.luxmed.pl.
Medicina A-6, ul. Barska 12, tel. (+48) 12 266 96 65,
www.medicina.pl.
Agrafka
BLU Plac
targowy
ul. Sienna 12, Krakw
Phone 12 426 49 68
www.kogel-mogel.pl
English menu available.
Beer garden. Air conditioned.
A truly Polish experience.
Gwad1978,
A must for all good food
lovers when in Cracow.
Cracow 2012,
ul. Karmelicka 14, Krakw
Phone +48 12 430 04 92
www.mammamia.net.pl
English and Italian
menu available.
Ci voglio ritornare!
massi1960 by
Nowhere in Cracow have I eaten
a better pizza.
Tadeusz Patek by
ul. Sienna 12, Krakw
Phone 12 426 49 68
www.kogel-mogel.pl
Certifcate of Excellence 2012 Recomendation
Best goose in Poland!
Winner of the nationwide
Its time for goose
2012 campaign competition.
Etap
Hilton Garden
K
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tk
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W
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Jzefiska
Schindlers
Factory
MOCAK
Kopiec
Krakusa Liban
Quarry
Fort Benedict
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k
a
Galaxy
view point
135
STREET REGISTER
29 Listopada, Al. J-1
3 Maja, Al. G/H-2/3
Akacjowa L-1
Akademicka H-2
Aliny L-1
Altanowa G-1
Ariaska J-2
Armii Krajowej, Al. F/G-1
Asnyka B-1/2
Augustiaska D-6-7
Bajeczna L-3
Bauckiego A-6
Bandtkiego F-1
Bandurskiego K-1/2
Barska A/B-6/7
Bartosza E-6
Basztowa C/D-2
Batorego I-2
Beliny-Pramowskiego, Al.
K-1/2
Berka Joselewicza E-5
Bernardyska B/C-5/6
Biaa Droga H-4
Biernackiego H-1
Biskupia B-1
Blachnickiego, ks. J-3
Blich J-3
Bobrowskiego K-3
Boczna H-4
Bohomolca L-1
Bocheska J-4
Bonerowska E-4
Boni fraterska D-7
Bora-Komorowskiego, gen.
K/L-1
Borowego F-2
Bosacka E-1/2
Boego Ciaa D-6/7
Boznaskiej K-1
Bracka C-3/4
Brzownicza F-2
Brodowicza K-1/2
Bronowicka F/G-1
Brzozowa D-5
Buhaka A-7
Buszka F/G-2
Bydgoska G-1/2
Bytomska H-1
Ceglarska H-5
Celna J-4
Chmielowskiego I/J-4
Chocimska H-1/2
Chodkiewicza J-3
Chodowieckiego G-2
Chopina H-2
Ciemna E-6
Cieszyska I-1
Cicha F-1
wiklowa F-5
Cybulskiego A-3
Cystersw L-2/3
Czapskich A-3
Czarnieckiego J-4
Czarnowiejska H-2
Czarodziejska G/H-4
Czysta A-2
Czywka J-5
Dbrowskiego, gen. K-4
Dbska L-2
Dajwr E-6
Daszyskiego J-3/4
Dbnicka H-4
Dbowa A-7
Dekerta K-4
Dembowskiego J/K-5
Dietla C/E-4/6
Duga C-1
Dugosza J-5
Dobrego Pasterza K/L-1
Dolnych Mynw A-2
Dominikaska C-4
Droga do Zamku B/C-5-6
Dunajewskiego B/C-2
Dworska H-4
Dzielskiego K/L-1
Estery D-6
Fabryczna L-2/3
Faata H-3
Feldmana A-1
Felicjanek A-4
Fenna Sereno I-2
Filarecka H-3
Flisacka H-3/4
Floriaska C/D-2/3
Focha, Al. marsz. G/H-3
Franciszkaska B/C-4
Friedleina I-1
Galla G/H-1
Garbarska B-2
Garczyskiego K-2
Garncarska H-2/3
Gazowa E-7
Gsia K-3
Gowackiego G-1
Goetla G-2
Gobia B-3
Gontyna G-3
Grabowskiego A-1
Gramatyka G-1
Grodzka C-3/5
Gromadzka L-4/5
Grottgera H/I-1
Grunwaldzka K-1/2
Gryfity G-3
Grzegrzecka E-4
Gzymsikw I-1
Halicka J-3/4
Helclw I-1
Herlinga-Grudziskiego K-4
Heweliusza L-5
Hofmana F-3
Humberta H-3
Igrcw G-2
Ingardena H-3
Izaaka D/E-6
Jabonowskich H/I-3
Jadwigi z obzowa F/G-1
Jagielloska B-2/3
Jachowicza L-2
Jakuba E-6
Jaskcza H-3
Joselewicza J-3
Jzefa D/E-6
Jzefitw H-1
Kadecka G-1
Kalwaryjska I/J-5
Kamienna I/J-1
Kamieskiego I/J-5
Kanonicza C-4/5
Kapelanka H-4/5
Kapucyska A/B-3
Karowicza H-2
Karmelicka A/B-1/2
Kasztelaska G/H-3
Kazimierza Odnowiciela K-1
Kazimierza Wielkiego G/H-1
Kielecka K-1/2
Kiekowskiego K/L-4
Kijowska, Al. G/H-1/2
Kiliskiego A-7
Klimeckiego K/L-4
Kmieca H-1
Kobierzyska H-5
Kochanowskiego A-1/2
Koletek C-6
Kotaja E-3
Komandosw I-4/5
Konarskiego H-2
Konfederacka A-7
Konopnickiej A/B-5/7
Konwisarzy F-1/2
Kopernika D/E-3
Kordylewskiego K-2/3
Kociuszki H-3
Kosynierw L-2
Kotlarska K-3
Kolarska L-5
Krakowska D-6/7
Krasickiego I-5
Krasiskiego, Al. H-3
Kraszewskiego H-3
Kredowa F-5
Kremerowska A-1
Krlewska H-1
Krlowej Jadwigi F/G-2/3
Krtka C-1
Krowoderska C-1
Krupnicza A/B-2/3
Krzemionki J-5
Krzesawicka L-1
Krzywa C-1
Krzywda L-4/5
ks. Kordeckiego C-6/7
Ksicia Jzefa F/G-4
Kujawska H-1
Kupa E-6
Kurkowa J-2
Kurniki D-1
Kwartowa L-1
Lanckoroska K-5
Lea F/H-1/2
Legionw Pisudskiego J-4/5
Lenartowicza H/I-1/2
Leszczynowa F-3
Lewkowa E-6
Limanowskiego J/K-4
Lipowa K-4
Litewska H-1
Loretaska A-2/3
Lubelska I-1
Lubicz D/E-2
Lublaska K-1
Lubomirskiego J/K-2
Ludowa K-5
Ludwinowska I-4/5
Lwowska J-K/4
obzowska B-1/2
Madaliskiego A-6
Maa A-4
Malczewskiego F/G-3-4
May Rynek C-3
Masarska K-3
Matejki, Pl. I/J-2
Mazowiecka H/I-1
Meiselsa D-6
Metalowcw E-3/4
Mickiewicza, Al. H-2
Michaowskiego A-1/2
Michaowskiego H/I-2
Mikoajska C/D-3
Miodowa D/E-5/6
Mitery I-5
Mlaskotw H-3
Myska K-1
Mogilska K/L-1/2
Moniuszki K-2
Monte Cassino A-7
Montelupich I-1
Mosinicza K-2
Mostowa D/E-7
Na Grdku D-3
Na Przejciu E-6
Na Szaniec L-3
Na Ustroniu I-4
Na Zjedzie J-4
Nadwislanska J-4
Nawojki G-2
Obona H-1
Odlewnicza F-1/2
Odrowa I-1
Ofiar Dbia L-3
Ogrodowa D-1
Oleandry H-2/3
Olszaska K-1
Orawska I-5
Orzeszkowej C-6/7
Owcy-Orwicza F-3
Paderewskiego C/D-1
Paproci L-4
Parkowa J-5
Patynw G-4
Pauliska C-6/7
Pawia D-1/2
Pawlickiego, ks. H-4/5
Pdzichw I-1/2
Piastowska F/G-1/3
Piekarska C/D-7
Pietrusiskiego G-4/5
Pijarw K/L-1
Pijarska C/D-2
Pisudskiego A/B-3/4
Piwna J-4
Pl. Baw E-6
Pl. Bernardyski C-5
Pl. Biskupi B/C-1
Pl. Bohaterw Getta J-4
Pl. gen. Sikorskiego A-3
Pl. Inwalidw H-2
Pl. Kossaka A-5
Pl. Mariacki C-3
Pl. Matejki D-1/2
Pl. Na Groblach B-4/5
Pl. Nowy D-6
Pl. Sowiaski C-1
Pl. Serkowskiego J-4/5
Pl. Szczepaski B-2
Pl. w. Ducha D-2
Pl. w. Marii Magdaleny C-4
Pl. Wolnica D-7
Pl. Wszytkich witych C-4
Paszowska L-4
Pod Kopcem F-3
Pod Kopcem, Al. K-5
Podbrzezie J-3
Podbrzezie D-5/6
Podgrska E-7
Podchorych G-1
Podskale I/J-5
Podwale B-2/3
Podzamcze B/C-5
Pokoju, Al. K/L-2/3
Pkole L-3
Pomorska H-1
Portowa K/L-4
Poselska B/C-4
Powile A/B-5
Powronicza A-6
Powstacw lskich, Al.
J/K-5
Powstacw Wielkopolskich,
Al. K/L-4/5
Powstania Warszaw. Al.
K-2/3
Prdnicka I-1
Prandoty J/K-1
Praska G/H-4
Prusa H-3
Przedwionie I-4/5
Przemysowa K-4
Przybyszewskiego F-1
Puaskiego A-6/7
Racawicka H-1
Radziwiowska E-2/3
Rajska A-2
Rakowicka J/K-1/2
Reformacka A/B-2
Rkawka J/K-4
Retoryka A-4
Reymana G-2
Reymonta G/H-2
Rodackiego J/K-5
Rana A-6
Ruczaj F/G-5
Rybaki I/J-4
Rybna L-4/5
Rynek Dbnicki A-6
Rynek Gwny C-3
Rynek Kleparski C/D-1
Rynek Podgrski J-4
Rzeszowska E-6
Rzenicza K-3
Sdowa K-2
Salezjaska G/H-5
Salwatorska H-3
Sandomierska A/B-6
Sarego C/D-4/5
Saska L-4/5
Senacka C-4
Senatorska H-3
Siedleckiego E-4/5
Siemieskiego G/H-1
Siemiradzkiego A-1
Sienkiewicza H-1
Sienna C-3/4
Skaeczna C/D-7
Skalica F-5
Skarbiskiego G-1
Skawiska C/D-7
Skodowskiej-Curie D/E-3
Skwerowa A-7
Sawkowska C-2/3
Somiana H-4/5
Soneckiego K-1
Sonecznikowa F-3
Sowackiego, Al. H/I-1
Smocza B-6
Smolesk A/B-4
Smolki I/J-5
Sobieskiego I-2
Sobieskiego Jana III A/B-1
Sotyka E-3/4
Spasowskiego A/B-1
Spiowa F-1/2
Starowilna D/E-4/6
Staszica I-1
Stawarza J-5
Stefana Batorego A/B-1
Stoczniowcw L-4
Stolarska C-3/4
Stradomska C/D-5/6
Straszewskiego I-3
Strzelcw K-1
Strzelecka E-2
Studencka A/B-3
Sukiennicza C-6
Supniewskiego K-1/2
Swoszowicka J-5
Symfoniczna H-2
Syrokomli H-3
Szablowskiego F-1
Szafera K-2/3
Szczepaska B/C-2/3
Szenwalda L-1/2
Szeroka E-6
Szewska B-2/3
Szklarska L-4
Szlachtowskiego G-1
Szlak I/J-1
Szpitalna C/D-2/3
Szwedzka H-4
Szymanowskiego H-2
lska I-1
liska I-5
lusarska K-4
niadeckiego J-3/4
w. Agnieszki C-6
w. Anny B-3
w. Bronisawy G-3
w. Filipa C/D-1
w. Gertrudy C/D-4/5
w. Idziego C-5
w. Jacka H-5
w. Jana C-2/3
w. Katarzyny D-6/7
w. Krzya D-3
w. azarza J-3
w. Marka C/D-2/3
w. Sebastiana C/E-5
w. Stanisawa C-7
w. Teresy I-1
w. Tomasza B/D-2/3
w. Wawrzyca D/E-6/7
witokrzyska I-1
Tenczyska B-4
Tkacka H-2
Topolowa J-2
Toruska G-2
Traugutta K-4
Trynitarska D/E-7
Twardowskiego H-5
Tyniecka F/H-4/5
Urzdnicza H-1/2
Wadowicka I-5
Waowa K-4
Wandy K-3
Warmijska G-1
Warszauera D/E-6
Warszawska D-1
Wasilewskiego A-7
Wska E-6
Waszyngtona G-3
Wglowa D-7
Wenecja A-3
Westerplatte D-2/3
Widok L-3
Wielopole J-3
Wierzbowa I-4
Wietora I-4
Wiolarska G-4
Wilna B-3
Wadysawa okietka I-1
Wociaska F-1
Wodna L-5
Wodocigowa F-4
Wjtowska H-1
Wolnica, Pl. J-4
Worcela D-2
Wrblewskiego I-1/2
Wrocawska H/I-1
Wrzesiska E-4
Wyczkowskiego G/H-3
Wygoda A-4
Wyspiaskiego H-1
Zacisze D-1/2
Zaktek H-1
Zamenhofa D/E-2
Zamkowa A-6
Zarzecze F-1
Zatorska I-4/5
Zauek K-4
Zegadowicza A-4
Zieliskiego, gen. G/H-4
Zwierzyniecka A/B-4/5
Zwycistwa L-2/3
Zyblikiewicza D/E-3/4
Zygmunta Augusta J-2
elazna J-1
kiewskiego K-3
136
LISTINGS INDEX
Amadeus 25
Amber 26
andel's Hotel Cracow 26
Apartment Cracow 31
Apartmenthouse Grodzka 31
Ascot Hotel 28
B&B La Fontaine 31
Best Western Krakw Old
Town 26
Campanile 28
Classic 29
Copernicus 24
Eden 29
Flamingo Hostel 31
Fortuna Bis 29
Francuski 26
Galaxy 26
Grand 24
Greg & Tom 31
Grdek 24
Hilton Garden Inn Krakw 27
Holiday Inn Krakow City
Center 24
Hotel Stary 24
Hotel Unicus 27
Chopin Cracow 28
Ibis Budget Krakw
Bronowice 30
Ibis Budget Krakw Stare
Miasto 30
Ibis Krakw Centrum 29
Ibis Krakw Stare Miasto 29
Karmel 29
Matejko 27
Niebieski Art Hotel & SPA 24
Novotel Krakw Centrum 27
Andersa, al., gen. M/N-1/3
Artystw N-3
Bardosa T-4
Batalionu Parasol M-1
Boruty-Spiechowicza, gen.
M-2/3
Bulwarowa P/R-1/4
Centralny, pl. N/O-3
Cerchw P-4
Daniowskiego R-4
Gajocha O-3/4
Gardy-Godlewskiego, pk.
O-2/3
Jana Pawa II, al. M/R-3/4
Klasztorna R-5
Kleinera T-1
Kocmyrzowska M/N-1
Lehra-Spawiskiego T-1
Ludmierska N-1/2
empickiego S-1
Mierzwy O/R-3/4
Mocickiego O/P-1
Novotel Krakw City West 27
Park Inn by Radisson
Krakow 27
Pod R 27
Pod Wawelem 29
Pollera 30
Polonia 30
Qubus Hotel Krakw 28
Radisson Blu 25
Royal 30
Rubinstein Residence 28
Ruczaj 30
Sheraton Krakw 25
The Bonerowski Palace 25
The Secret Garden Hostel 31
Tournet 30
Wawel 30
Wielopole 28
Wyspiaski 30
Al Dente 42
Alebriche 49
Amadeus 36
Amarone 42
Andromeda 36
Aperitif 37
Aperitif 38
Aqua e Vino 42
Ariel 48
Augusta 59
Bagelmama 32
Balaton 35
Bar Italiano 44
Bar Smak 50
Bar Targowy 60
Barka Food, Life, Music 59
Baroque 37
Obrocw Krzya N-1
Orkana P/R-3
Padniewskiego, bp. M-4
Przyjani, al. N/O-2/3
Ptaszyckiego R/T-4/5
R, al. O-1/2
Rydza-migego, marsz.
M/P-1/2
Sieroszewskiego P/R-5
Solidarnoci, al. O/T-1/3
Stalowa O-1
Struga P-2
Tomickiego, bp. M-3/4
Ujastek T-1
Ujastek Mogilski T-2/4
Wakowicza S-1
Wwozowa S-1
Winiowy Sad M-2
Wojciechowskiego P-1
Zachemskiego P-4/5
Zuchw P-3/4
eromskiego O/P-1/2
Bombaj Tandoori 36
C.K. Browar 50
Cafe Mynek 60
Casa Juan 59
Ceska Chodba 34
Copernicus 37
Corner Burger 42
Cyrano de Bergerac 34
Czerwone Korale 50
Da Pietro 44
Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu
48
Deli Bar 35
Diego & Bohumil 34
Diego & Bohumil 48
Dynia Resto Bar 37
Europejska 38
Europejska 46
Fabryka Pizzy 44
Farina 59
Ganesh 36
Genji Premium Sushi 47
Glonojad 60
Gocinna Chata 50
Grande Grill 32
Green Way 60
Hamsa 42
Hard Rock Cafe 32
Haweka 38
Haweka 50
Horai 32
Hot Chili 38
Chopskie Jado 50
Il Calzone 44
Indus Tandoor 36
Jarema 50
Karma 61
Kawaleria Szara Smaku 52
Kaze 47
Klezmer Hois 48
Kogel Mogel 52
Koji 47
Kuchnia i Wino 38
Kura 47
La Campana Trattoria 44
La Fontaine 34
Le Scandale 46
Love Krove 42
Mamma Mia 45
Manzana 46
Manzana 49
Marcello 45
Marmolada 52
Met Cafe & Brasserie 46
Milano Ristorante 45
Milkbar Tomasza 52
Mid i Wino 38
Mid i Wino 53
Mid Malina 53
Moaburger 42
Moment Resto 46
Momo 61
Moo Moo Steak & Burger
Club 42
Morskie Oko 53
Musso Sushi 48
Pieroki u Vincenta 53
Pimiento 49
Pod Anioami 53
Pod Baranem 56
Pod R 38
Pod Temid 60
Pod Wawelem 56
Polakowski 56
Portofino 49
Ratuszowa 38
Raw Organic 61
Restauracja Gessler we
Francuskim 38
Restauracja Gessler we
Francuskim 56
Restauracja Unicus 38
HOTELS
RESTAURANTS
Nowa Huta Street Register
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G No smoking
K Restaurant X Smoking room available
D Sauna C Swimming pool
E Live music W Wi-Fi
6 Animal friendl y S Take away
I Fireplace J Old Town location
Y Tourist Card accepted V Home delivery
Symbol Key
Santander Collection
Te exhibition presents over 60 works representing
fne European art from midages to the 20th century.
Te National Museum in Wroclaw From 12 March to 6 June 2013
From Cranach to Picasso
138
Resto Illuminati 40
Samui 60
Scandale Royal 40
Smak Ukraiski 60
SomePlace Else 32
Spdzielnia Organic Resto &
Take-away 61
Stara Zajezdnia 57
Starka 57
Studio Qulinarne 40
Szara 40
Szara Kazimierz 40
The Mexican 50
The Olive 41
Tradycyja 41
Trattoria Pistola 45
Trufla 41
Trzy Papryczki 45
Trzy Rybki 41
U Babci Maliny 57
U Ziyada 41
Vanilla Sky 42
Warsztat 49
Wentzl Magda Gessler 57
Wesele 58
Wierzynek 58
Winiowy Sad 58
Yellow Dog 34
ZaKadka - Food & Wine 35
Zazie Bistro 35
Zbjcy w Paacu 58
Zoty Piec 58
Bal 62
Cafe Sza 62
Camelot 62
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino 62
Karma Coffee Roasters 62
Kolanko N6 64
Mamy Cafe 64
Noworolski 64
Royal Art Cafe 64
Sodki Wawel 64
Tektura 64
Alchemia 74
Ambasada ledzia 68
Antycafe 65
Artefakt Cafe 74
Baccarat 70
BaniaLuka 68
Baroque 65
Baroque 70
base music club 70
Beer Gallery - Luxury 65
Bomba 65
Budda Drink & Garden 66
Bull Pub 66
Bunkier Cafe 66
Burlesque 70
C.K. Browar 66
Cafe & Club Kalashnikov 74
Cie 71
Diva Music Gallery 71
Dym 67
Eszeweria 74
Frantic 71
Gold Club 73
Gorczka 71
Gospoda Koko 70
Hard Rock Cafe 67
House Of Beer 67
Cheers Pub 66
Irish Mbassy 67
Kielbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski
70
Kitsch 72
Kitsch 75
Klub Pikny Pies 75
Le Scandale 74
Les Couleurs 74
Literki 75
Lizard King 72
Miejsce 74
Ministerstwo 72
Mleczarnia 74
Moment 75
Mostowa Art Cafe 75
Movida Cocktail Bar 67
Omerta 75
Pauza 68
Piec'Art 72
Pijalnia Wdki i Piwa 68
Pod Papugami Irish Pub 68
Prozak 2.0 72
QUBE 68
Rozrywki Trzy 72
Scandale Royal 70
Shakers Krakw 73
Singer 75
SomePlace Else 68
Spoem 73
Stalowe Magnolie 72
wita Krowa 68
Taawa 75
Taboo Gentlemen's Club 73
The Piano Rouge 72
U Muniaka 72
Zapiecek Ekspres 70
Adult Entertainment 73
Barbican 80
Beer Gardens 65
Bonia Meadow 122
Breakfast 46
Burgers 42
Cloth Hall 84
Cracovian Cooking A-O 54
Cracovian Cooking P-Z 55
Currency Exchange 129
Dining At A Glance 32
Facts & Figures 16
Gift Shopping At a Glance 124
Guided Tours 81
Have Your Say 61
Krakw Historical Timeline 76
Krakus Mound 96
Lady With an Ermine 90
Language Smarts 17
Las Wolski 8
Late Night Eats 70
Liban Quary 100
Live Music 72
Lodgings at a Glance 24
Lunch 38
Main Market Square 82
Market Values 17
May Days 58
Memories of Lenin 108
Milk Bars 60
Nightlife At A Glance 65
Out of Centre 88
Plac Nowy 93
Plac Wolnica 92
Polish Desserts 63
Polish Friends of Beer Party 40
Polish Vodka 66
Public Transport 13
Riverboat Dining 59
Rynek Underground 86
Sowacki Theatre 80
Station History 11
The Floriaska Gate 87
The Hejna 77
The Wawel Chakra 88
Zakski Przekski 68
Zakrzwek 121
Features Index
LISTINGS INDEX
CAFS
NIGHTLIFE

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