Chemistry of Coffee
Chemistry of Coffee
Chemistry of Coffee
25 Chemistry of Coffee
S. Oestreich-Janzen, CAFEA GmbH, Hamburg, Germany
3.25
3.25.1
.1 Over
Overvi
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3.25.1
3.25.1.1
.1 Coffee
Coffee’s
’s Ori
Origin
gin
The coffee plant most probably originated in Africa and Madagascar. Early cultivation is reported in the
Ethiopian Highlands and also on the other side of the Red Sea, in Yemen – no surprise, since climate and
geography are similar. According to legends, coffee stepped out of Africa most likely in the first millennium.
Other narratives deal with the discovery of roasting, leading to the consumption of coffee as a beverage.
1085
1086 Chemistry of Coffee
Tropic
Equator Equator
Tropic
Coffee grows best in areas lying between the tropics. Today, it is found in all continents belonging to this
geographic belt, Figure 1, even in Australia and very recently, not yet shown here, at the Northern tropic in the
Yunnan highland of China. There are two main species of coffee, Arabica and Robusta, each with its own ecology.
naked beans had circulated among European scientists some time before, mentioned in the updated 1574
edition of an earlier standard work on tropical plants.8
Coffee as a commodity for trade did not enter the non-Islamic world until 1615, when a few bags arrived in
Venice,9 followed by demand and supply. The coffee trade’s mainstream ran from Mocha, the port in Yemen
involved in export, through ship and caravan to Cairo and Alexandria.4 From there the coffee was distributed to
the Ottoman customers and to the consumers in Europe, where coffee houses started flourishing. As early as
1668, coffee had crossed the Atlantic and arrived in Dutch New York.10
Cultivation of this species for use as roast coffee was initiated in 1898,26,27 and promoted by a Belgian
horticultural company.28,29 This coffee was called Robusta by the Belgians as it proved more robust against diseases
and had less ecological requirements in terms of humidity, temperature, and altitude of plantations. Although
different in taste, it soon turned out to be a useful alternative for the vulnerable Arabicas, which were disease prone
due to their narrow genetic origin.30 There was an actual demand for resistant plants as a disastrous epidemic of leaf
rust, caused by the devastating Hemileia vastatrix fungus, started in 1869.31 The first to suffer from it were the Ceylon
coffee plantations. There, at the abandoned plantations, coffee was replaced by tea. The next coffee countries soon to
be attacked were India and, then, Indonesia. Eventually, the search for rust-resistant coffee types led to the
substitution of Arabica by Robusta, after an intermezzo with the species Coffea liberica . During the last century,
Robusta made its way to other coffee growing regions and witnessed an enormous expansion in its cultivation.
Besides pests and diseases, coffee crops can also be reduced by drought and frost,32 thus influencing the
available volume of coffee. This happened regularly after a frost in Brazil, causing declines in world supplies in
the 1970s. Soon the cultivation of Robusta increased in West Africa, its original homeland.
Since 1990 there has been a steady increase in Robusta production in Vietnam, which is now the world’s of
coffee in general.33
)
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7 000 000 r
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n Colombia
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P
Others
World coffee production in the last centuries Total
5 000 000 - compilation from different sources - 25 years average
4 000 000
1 000 000
Colombia
3 000 000
Brazil
Indonesia
Selected origins Haiti
Yemen 500 000
2 000 000 of early production
0
1 000 000
0 0 9 0 0 0 0 0 0
7 0 1
1 7 2 7 8 1 8 0 1 8 2 1 8 4 1 8 6 1 8 8 1 9 0
1
0
1789 1820 1880 1940 1955 1970 1985 2000 2008
The known data for world coffee trade started with about 10 000 tons per year in 1700,34 all from Yemen,
followed by supply from Indonesia and from the Caribbean.35,37 In 2008, a total of about 8 000 000 tons was
traded (roughly, Brazil 35%, Vietnam 15%, Colombia 10%, and Indonesia 5%, followed by Ethiopia, Mexico,
and India; Arabica constituted 60%). The world production figures are likely higher because there is domestic
consumption as well. The volumes of world coffee production and trade before the seventeenth century is not
clearly reported; compared with the volumes of today, it was negligible.
3.25.2 Botany
3.25.2.1 Plant Characteristics, Habit, and Growth
In nonrestricted growth, the coffee plant is a perennial tree or treelet with a single main trunk and horizontal branches,
primary, secondary, and tertiary horizontal branches (plagiotropic); pruning can lead to multiple-stem plants.
Coffee’s original place is the forest understorey. Coffee plants bear clusters of flowers and cherry-like fruits.
A short central taproot fades into axillary and lateral roots and a manifold of feeder bearers and root hairs. The
dark green elliptical leaves grow in opposite pairs on the main stem and branches. The wood is dense; the fruits,
nectar, and leaves are food resources.
Under tropical conditions, flowering and fruiting happen in parallel; the nearer coffee plants are to the
equator, the more pronounced is a bimodal cycle.
Multistem growth is trained by either capping the main stem, giving rise to suckers that develop into new
vertical stems with horizontal branching, or bending the principal stem to the horizontal (agobiado technique),
with several suckers in a row.
Periodic pruning is done to optimize the plant shape for good fruiting, easy harvesting, and effective disease
and pest control, as well as to rejuvenate the plant.
Pests may attack the plants in the field and the beans in store by boring, biting, mining, and sucking, or living
as parasites on the root system; fungi, viruses, and bacteria may cause severe coffee diseases.
Further characteristics and figures are given in Table 1. For each characteristic, the properties common to
all species are written in the first line, followed by the differing ones beneath in separate columns for the species.
The development of flowers from the buds takes several weeks, that of the fruits several months after
flowering, with periods of growth and of dormancy. The sequence of steps is enzymatically controlled in-plant
and is triggered externally by photoperiodism, relief of water stress, and temperature drop.
In a days-after-flowering (DAF) scale,43 depicted in Figure 3, the tissues of the growing fruit show marked
changes in volume ranking of all pericarp, perisperm, and endosperm. Embedded in the start-up pericarp, the
perisperm expands to equal the pericarp mass; then, it gets absorbed by the developing endosperm, the final
organ for all storage compounds in the fruit.
Propagation to the next generation starts with either seeds from the farmer’s own plants, sown directly in the
fields, or seedlings from seeds or cuttings delivered by a nursery in plastic bags for planting. Development time
in soil from the naked seed to the first leaves is 1–2 months at best. A third method for propagation in vitro is
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Chemistry of Coffee 1091
Figure 3 Fruit development in coffee, days-after-flowering scale, compiled from several sources. A. Flower: Linnaeus, 46
p 1. B. Bean development: De Castro; Marraccini, 43 p 177.
used in research: the cultivation of a fragment of tissue from a plant in a suitable substrate, producing a new
plant that is genetically identical to the plant from which it originated.44
presumably indicating the origin of the specimen; collection purchased from Linné’s widow in 1784).
The official reference for C. arabica L. is the type specimen from Clifford’s herbarium,51 which Linné
had described in 1737.49,50 It is designated as a lectotype52 on the basis of the procedures of the
International Botanical Code (the Vienna Code of 200553). ‘Lectotype’ means that the first publisher had
described the specimen prior to the reference to it – the requirement to explicitly design a reference
specimen came up later.
Linné’s typification became a benchmark for the botany of that time, as underlined by the title ‘Order
out of Chaos’ for an anniversary book of 2007.54 Although his classification was soon overtaken,55 the
binomial principle of naming remained – the first part indicates the botanic genus; the second is an epithet
given by the first author, who is indexed. The overall genus for the coffee species is Coffea L., indexed as
named by Linnaeus. The principal commercial species used for beverage preparation are C. arabica L., and
C. canephora Pierre ex A.Froehner,25 commonly called var. Robusta. Coffea liberica Bull ex Hiern and some
other species are much less important today; there are numerous varieties, including cultivated ones
(cultivars).
The botanical classification of coffee has reached a high degree of consensus, presented in international
conferences56,57 and with ongoing publication in the World Checklist of Rubiaceae58 – coffee is positioned in
this family since Jussieu 1789.55
Chevalier’s system,59 with four subgenera of Coffea , was popular for some decades of the last century.
However, it became obsolete the more taxa of the different pools of coffee origin were described and
classified.60–62
In terms of the Botanical Code, the classification lineage of coffee, starting at the family rank with Rubiaceae,
goes down via subfamily Ixoriadeae, tribe Coffeae DC.,63,64 to the genus Coffea L. Some 100 accepted species of
the genus, belong to the subgenus Coffea, including all beverage coffees; subgenus Baracoffea holds about 10
species.42 That is the actual status.
Nevertheless, there are follow-up refinements.65
1092 Chemistry of Coffee
Figure 4 ‘Caffe’ in Linnés herbar, marked ‘arabica’ by his own hand, courtesy of the Linnean Society, London.
Figure 5 The tropical African origin of coffee, distribution map showing the location of groups of Coffea.
progenitor. This might have taken place in East–Central Africa, very likely in the late Quaternary period.69
Several mechanisms were discussed – how the new species moved from a tetraploid via progressive diploidiza-
tion toward the amphidiploid, which it is considered to be now. With the adaptation to the tropical mountain
climate of Ethiopia, a low but continued natural selection may have occurred. 70
In contrast, the high genetic diversity found in the canephora branch of coffee encourages an earlier dating of
the origins, as some 500 000 years ago.71 The clustering of natural C. canephora diversity groups, with some 40
species in continental Africa, supports the link to climatic variations in that tropical zone. In the last glacial
maximum, an arid period 18 000 years ago, the environment became hostile and few forest refugia72 remained.
There, the differentiation of disseminated subgroups could have occurred,73 with rare migration of species
along the rivers74 and with unpopulated gaps in-between due to adverse conditions. From the East African
group, a dispersal to Madagascar and the neighboring islands might have taken place. They show more than 50
species of the genus Coffea , distinct from the continentals: no naturally occurring species is shared between
Africa, Madagascar, and the Mascarenes.42
Not so far away in history emerged the question about the origin of Bourbon Pointu from Re´union,
C. arabica ‘Laurina’ – whether it is a mutation of the Arabica introduced from Yemen or a result of crossing
between this Arabica and the indigenous Café marron of the island. A combination of historical and modern
analytical research revealed that it is a very young mutant of the Yemenite Arabica that was introduced in
Réunion.75
The genomic era facilitates the understanding of coffee seed development. Using current knowledge, the
metabolic pathways of the major seed storage compounds of coffee were elucidated.76
1094 Chemistry of Coffee
Coffee, as internationally agreed by coffee people, means in the vocabulary ISO, the ‘‘fruits and seeds of plants
of the genus Coffea , usually of the cultivated species, and the products from these fruits and seeds, in different
stages of processing and use intended for human consumption’’ (subclause 1.1. of the ISO 3509 coffee
vocabulary),77 and in the wording of the International Coffee Agreement, the ‘‘beans and cherries of the coffee
tree, whether parchment, green or roasted, and includes ground, decaffeinated, liquid and soluble coffee’’
(Article 2 of the said Agreement).78 Both definitions describe ‘coffee’ in terms of a series of stages from
maturation to consumption.
The composition of coffee varies with the species and with the step in the line. Table 2 gives an overview of
analytical data.
The data are averages from literature reviews,80 and from investigations executed in other analytical
contexts,82 where the components of constituent groups had been individually determined and summarized.79
The in-bean localization of distinct components during the development stages of growing and ripening of
the coffee fruit had been observed with electron microscopy supported by tissue coloring. Consecutive papers
presented at conferences of association for the science and information on coffee (ASIC) since 1977 featured
impressive findings:83 constituents had been distinguished in their cellular environment and their migrations
observed.
An integral view – arrived at through the use of modern instruments – of key biosynthetic pathways of the
main coffee seed storage compounds was published recently.76 Readers may refer to this paper for the plant
biochemistry as that will not be further elaborated here.
The following sections deal with the main components, caffeine, carbohydrates, chlorogenic acids, lipids,
other nitrogenous compounds, volatiles, and melanoidins, and include the transformation processes.
The first compound covered here is caffeine, associated even by name to our subject, coffee. Caffeine is a
nitrogenous compound that is not affected by the central process in coffee chemistry, roasting.
Table 2 Chemical composition of coffee, mass percent in dry matter, different sources
Constituent % DW % DW % DW % DW % DW % DW
In the coffee plant, caffeine is present in all parts over the ground. The ecological effects of caffeine as an
intrinsic chemical defense against herbivory, molluscs, insects, fungi, or bacteria86 have often been discussed,
but experimental results for clear support are difficult to obtain.87
O CH3
CH3 N
N1 6 7
5 8
2 4 9
3
O N N
CH3
Caffeine
Caffeine biosynthesis takes place in the leaves and in the pericarp, the outer part of the fruit. In aged leaves
the caffeine content is lower.88 In the pericarp tissues, light strongly stimulates the methylation step of caffeine
synthesis. When the seed inside the fruit starts growing, caffeine is translocated through the membranes and
accumulates in the endosperm. There, the final value is reached 8 months after flowering.89
The caffeine content of the coffee beans depends on species and variety, from 0.6% in Laurina up to 4% in
some extreme Robustas; averages are given in Table 3.90
Not included here are coffees from the Mascaracoffea group of Madagascar, which do not belong to the
‘beverage’ coffees.91 They have very low caffeine contents at the limit of analytical detection (caffeine free)92 and
may serve as genetic resources for further work. These low caffeine species also show low caffeine in their leaves.93
The caffeine content in dry matter base is not affected by postharvest processing, neither by the roasting.
Although the roasting process occurs well above sublimation temperature, during it only a small percentage of
caffeine vanishes, which is overbalanced by the organic weight loss.91
Caffeine is a physiologically active compound, and the human exposure to it after a cup of coffee is of interest.
Some general calculations can be made: an aqueous extraction at regular brewing conditions transfers the caffeine
almost completely into the beverage. A cup of 100 ml with a brew of 55 g lÀ1 of roast and ground coffee, with the
world trade ratio of 60% Arabica and an average caffeine content of Table 2, supplies about 100mg caffeine.
Looking beyond the averages, Table 4 roughly gives the variability (brewing strength 40 g/l) 94,95 of the
value, omitting extremes and exotics – a range of plus/minus 100%.
But even the term ‘cup’ or ‘serving’ is in motion: the mug has become widespread, with a volume of about
250 ml, and ‘jumbos’ are on the market, of about 500 ml.
A cup of tea for comparison, has a slightly lower caffeine content: Prepared from a 1.75 g teabag with an average
caffeine content for tea of 3%, a cup of 100 ml contains 50 mg, with a natural variability similar to the case of coffee.
The limit for mandatory caffeine labeling in non-coffee and non-tea drinks is set at 150 mg lÀ1(sets the
obligation for caffeine labelling at amounts exceeding 150 mg/l and a sentence intended as warning, ‘‘contains
high amounts of caffeine,’’ unless (Art.2 2) the beverage is based on coffee or tea);96 this labeling should help
consumers avoid unexpected caffeine intake.
The data given here reflect a standard beverage preparation – others exist. In an espresso-style percolation, for
a cup of 30 ml, 6.5 g roast and ground are taken; with the same coffee, about 87mg caffeine can be expected. The
very short time available to extract caffeine from the cellular structure leads to 75–85% extraction yield only. 97
Leaf bean
Species Variety % DW % DW
Table 4 Estimated ranges of caffeine content per cup, standard brewing of
different strengths
While enjoying his coffee, the consumer may benefit from the stimulating effect of caffeine.
The alerting effects are well known and the mechanisms investigated.98,99
After its consumption, caffeine is readily and completely absorbed from the gastrointestinal tract. Within 1 h
it is evenly distributed within the body, readily passing the blood–brain barrier. Peak plasma levels occur
30–60 min after ingestion.
Provoked by a cup of regular coffee of the previously-calculated concentration, a caffeine level of 2 mg lÀ1
body fluid is reached (total body fluid taken as 60% of a 70-kg man), just in the range of the stimulatory level of
about 1–4mg lÀ1 body fluid.100 At blood concentrations such as these, the main mechanism of action in the
central nervous system is the antagonism of adenosine receptors, which increases central nervous system
activity, with effects on alertness and cognitive control.
During circulation, caffeine is metabolized in the liver via successive demethylation and oxidative degrada-
tion to uric acid. The breakdown products are excreted through the kidneys. About 5% of caffeine is excreted
unchanged. The half-life ranges from 2.5 to 4.5 h in healthy male adults. For children, women, pregnant women,
and people under stress, longer times were reported.
The caffeine content of coffee can be reduced by decaffeination. The process starts with a steam treatment of
the green coffee to soften the tissues, followed by solvent extraction. The first patent dates back to 1905. 101
Today, processes run with dichloromethane, ethyl acetate, supercritical or fluid carbon dioxide, or water – each
process with its own special technology.102 In the United States, nondecaffeinated coffee is called ‘regular’ coffee.
Legal requirements on the caffeine content apply to decaffeinated coffee for the final product for consump-
tion, that is, roast and soluble coffees. In the United States, decaffeination is measured through the degree of
decaffeination; common are 97%.103 The European legislation sets a maximum residual caffeine content of
0.3% for soluble coffee;104 roast coffee is covered by national legislations, in general 0.1% on dry matter.
The standard analytical methods for caffeine determination employ chromatographic separation and
spectrometric detection.105
Although caffeine as pure chemical has a clearly bitter taste (it can be used as a ‘‘bitter’’ standard in basic
sensory tests), it plays only a minor role in giving a bitter tinge to the coffee beverage.
The ripe coffee beans, cherry-like, embedded in the pulp of the fruit, need to be dissected soon after harvesting
to avoid an uncontrolled fermentation in the wet mucilage, which would cause undesired ‘off-flavors’ in the
cup. The cherries can be processed by either the dry method – sun drying on patios for 3–9 days followed by
mechanical removal of the dried outer parts, resulting in ‘natural coffee’ – or the wet method – pulping,
controlled fermentation of the mucilage in an 18–36 h process, then rinsing the residuals and drying to produce