‚

The project „19 until 19“ is realised by the Centre for European and International Studies in partnership
with Vitosha district of Sofia municipality and is in support of the nomination of Sofia and Southwest Region
for European Capital of Culture for 2019.
The guide in your hands is published with the financial support of the Municipality of Sofia, Programme
Europe 2013.
The contents of this Guide do not represent an official stament of Sofia Municipality.

special thanks to:

Bulgarian, first edition

Book format A5, number of pages 118, circulation 2500 copies.
Design and prepress: Tzerh 2 OOD, Rositza Bossiatzka, tel./fax: +359 2 4224029, office@tzerh.com,
www.tzerh.com
Authors: Kalina Panayotova, Nevena Aleksieva, Miroslava Gateva, Teodor Slavev, Nikolay Martinov, Nikola
Mitov, Ivaylo Tzoneff, Kremena Kirilova.
Translation and editing: Nevena Alekieva, Kalina Panayotova.
Photographs: Kostadin Tsenov, Dimitar Genov, Kalina Panayotova, National Museum of Military History,
Sofia Breathes, Sofia Science Festival, www.petardanov.com
 А Tourist Guide of Sofia

19
19
' until
19 reasons
to visit Sofia before 2019
Why “19 until ‘19 ”
Because we wanted to point out 19 reasons, 19 themes and attractions that will make your visit to
Sofia worth it. Every guidebook will tell you what the traditional tourist sights are and with a few clicks
the internet will drown you with information about them. In turn we wanted to show guests of Sofia that
there is something more worth a visit but seem to be left out of the typical guides. These are sights that
we walk by every day but rarely notice.

The “19 until ‘19” is a project of the Centre for European and International Studies and its partner
Vitosha district with the financial support of Europe 2013 Programme of Sofia Municipality. The goal of this
project was to involve more actively the citizens and guests of Sofia in the efforts to transform our city
into even more attractive tourist destination, to uncover the true potential of our city and to support the
nomination of Sofia for European Capital of Culture in 2019. Also, we wanted to create a modern product
to promote to citizens and visitors of Sofia the less popular historic and cultural attractions, reflecting the
expectations of visitors and contemporary ways of presentation.

In the framework of the project we analyzed, adapted and suggested best practices for development
of tourist products especially in former and future European Capitals of Culture as well as the methods
used by such cities in projecting a positive image.

We also studied the feelings and expectations of Sofia citizens and guests as to what they think is
needed in terms of tourist information about the city. We did that through interviews in structured focus
groups and through public opinion polls. Between the 1st and the 4th of September 2013 at dedicated
information points both in the centre and in the suburbs our team interviewed citizens and guests of the
city about their views.

The most serious part of our job however was the drafting of the guide you hold in your hands. In
it we try to present to you 19 of the less popular attraction in and around Sofia that are not advertised
as often but are definitely worth a visit. We hope that you will enjoy those sights as least as much as we
enjoyed writing about them.

The results of the “19 until ‘19” – the best practices, the results of the study are uploaded to the
project’s Facebook page (http://www.facebook.com/19Do19) and CEIS web page www.cemi-bg.org.

We would like to thank especially to the people who supported us – CEIS volunteers, the teams of
Sofia Breathes, Sofia Science Week, the Museum of Socialist Art, the National Polytechnic Museum, the
National Museum of Military History, the Parks and Gardens and Tourist Information municipal companies.
And of course the team of Europe 2013 Programme of Sofia Municipality for the indispensable support
without which this project would not have happened. We thank you from the bottom of our hearts!

CEIS team

2
Dear citizens and guests of Sofia,

‚
You have before you the “19 until 19” guide, whose pages feature 19 tourist attractions in our city.
The message of the young authors, which I second, is for you to visit these places before 2019. You have
in your hands at least 19 reasons to discover the beauty of our capital.

Sofia is a dynamically developing city and a candidate for European Capital of Culture in 2019. Sofia has
been working actively to be included in this prestigious cultural initiative on European level. This is
an exceptional opportunity for the capital, and even more for its citizens and guests, to develop the
cultural, historical and tourist potential of the city and to promote former and current achievements
related to Sofia.

This guide is an attractive handbook for possible tours around the many spots of our city. It is exemplary
of how culture can be considered and presented in a modern and accessible way.

Jordanka Fandakova
Mayor of Sofia

3
About us
The Centre for European and International Studies Foundation was established in 2008 by a group of
young people united by their common ambition to work together for a better future for Bulgaria.

Our main mission is to contribute for strengthening the European democratic and social values in
Bulgaria and to work for the adequate positioning of Bulgaria in Europe and the world. We believe that
we can propose some good ideas to support the transformation of our country into a modern European
state on today’s international theatre.
In our work we try to promote active citizenship and to support the forming of civic consciousness of
the young people and to help spreading the European values among active youth.

The bulk of our activities includes trainings and discussions on important European policies with the
participation of prominent experts on these topics, promoting young people’s research and supporting
publications of young people in compendiums on these issues distributed freely to universities and state
administration; round table discussions and dialogue between youth NGO’s and decision makers.

In our activities we strive to include young people and provoke their civic activity, responsibility and ideas. We do
so not only through our own projects but also through supporting their own ideas, projects and European priorities.

In line with its Statues, CEIS aims to help young people to unfold their potential and to form a truly
European mind set. For this reason, for six years in a row, we have organized a competition for an annual
scholarship awarded to the author of the best essay on a European issue.

Our most successful projects include several research projects with the participation of young experts
“Bulgaria in Europe and the World” (2009), “Europe Looks to the East : Eastern Partnership a Year Later”
(2010), “Western Balkans’ Accession to the EU: Mission (Im)Possible” (2011), and “Arab Spring: Hopes
for Change and Challenges before CFSP” (2012).

In 2011, in partnership with Sredetz and Studentski districts, CEIS completed the “Act Naturally”
project with the financial Support of Europe 2011 Programme of Sofia Municipality and published a youth
guide with the same name. During this project we developed a methodology for tourist products and
gained experience in polling public opinion. We made good use of that during the “19 until ‘19” project.
In the beginning of 2013, CEIS successfully carried out the “Eat. Learn. Europe.” project with the financial
support of the Youth in Action Programme. We wanted to help youngsters from seven countries to
overcome prejudice formed for many decades and centuries and to help them build skills for multicultural
dialogue. We did that through cooking together our national foods. In total 21 youngsters from Azerbaijan,
Belarus, Bulgaria, Georgia, Italy, Poland and Turkey took part in this project in the picturesque town of Devin.

Apart from “19 until ‘19” we are now working on two other projects: the annual research project
that in 2013 will be dedicated to an analysis of European Common Foreign Policy in light of the upcoming
European Elections; and the “Choose to Participate” project financed by under the NGO Programme
under the EEA financial mechanism.

For more information about our activities and our future projects, follow us on our website www.
cemi-bg.org.

4
Contents
1. Sofia – a Bird’s Eye View . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

2. Vitosha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

3. Urvich – the Last Stronghold of Second Bulgarian Kingdom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

4. Vrana Park with Palace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

5. The Bells - Kambanite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

6. PARK Somewhere Green: Sofia Parks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

7. Mineral Waters of Sofia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

8. Sofia’s Holy Mount . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

9. Sofia – A Religious Crossroad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

10. Deunov . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

11. The Yellow Cobblestone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

12. Ancient Sofia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

13. The Triangle of Powers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

14. Communist Sofia; Socialist symbolism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

15. Military might and glory - National Museum of Military History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

16. The Science Class You Wished You Had . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

17. National Polytechnic Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

18. Sofia breathes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

19. Street Art . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57

5
6
 Sofia – a Bird’s Eye View
Have you ever wished to look at the world from above?

You must have, there is no way you haven’t. Inevitably, at least once, you wished to enjoy a
bird’s eye view of the city you live in (or visit) like they do in the movies, where most characters
have the pleasure of city-gazing from the Beverly Hills.

Well, Sofia may not be Los Angelis and have Beverly Hills, but
you can still have the same experience here. You cannot help
but notice that the city is surrounded by mountains,
which hide amazing views and spots for overlooking
the city from above. Whether you would choose
Vitosha, Lozen, Plana, Lulin, the Balkan or
another mountain, it does not matter. The
view is certainly worth it and it might
even take your breath away. You don’t
believe us? Come for a tour.

Before you leave, make sure

you have a car, because many of
the sights that we will show you
are not to be reached with public
transport. If you already have a
vehicle, we suggest you take the
route from Orlov most, and go
south along “Evlogi Georgiev”
boulevard towards the National
Palace of Culture (eNDeKa) and
Boyana district. In fact you don’t have
to make a turn anywhere. Just the name
of the boulevard changes to Bulgaria
Blvd after you pass the pedestrian Lovers’
Bridge behind NDK. The road will take you
straight to Boyana where its name changes to
Belovodski Pat Str. This street will take you to our
first stop – the area around Kopitoto peak. This is the
spot which presents probably the best view of the city
from 1300 m above the sea level. You will see almost completely
Sofia laid out before you and you can even try to test your knowledge on
the city’s attractions, districts and geography. The night view is even more inspiring and beautiful.
And quite romantic, speaking of it, especially in the eyes of the many couples in love, perched on
the slopes in the area, enjoying the city lights while holding hands. Just like in the Hollywood movies
and the lovers on the Beverly Hills, right?

7
 Enough with the romance. Go back to the Going up the slope, and especially if you
daylight, to the impulse for freedom and to the decide to sit down for a break or a picnic
desire to enjoy Sofia from above. Get back in with a bird’s eye view, watch out for a more
the car and head for Aleko hostel. From there contemporary and stranger “bird”. Do not be
up is only Cherni Vruh (the Black Peak), which afraid – we are talking about paragliders, whose
is the summit of Vitosha and around Sofia. It pilots use the adjacent slopes to dive off into
can be reached only on foot so forget about gliding in the air and revere the sight below. If
the car for at least several hours. While you you are a gliding fan, just join in the party and
climb, a mind-boggling view of Sofia and the feel for real Sofia from above.
Sofia Valley surrounded by mountains will open
before you. It might have some drawbacks of Somewhere along the road after the
course: if there is no wind you might not be Kokalyanska Cheshma find a spot to stop. You
able to see the city, covered in smog. On the can freely spread the picnic blanket on the left
other hand, be creative. In case of smog you side of the road to enjoy the beauty of Lozen
will see the wonderful fluffy cover between the and Plana mountains. This is not the only thing
mountains’ peaks, which will make you wish to you will see. Look down and then left and the
just lie down. We strongly advice against it, as beauty of the sight will overwhelm you with a
you might not leave after that. feeling of accomplishment beyond words. The

Do you feel the air get ting thin? OK, get back to the
car, take the ring road towards Plovdiv. When the road
gets narrower, you will reach a crossing with a traf fic light
and a policeman. Turn right and drive along until you pass
Pancharevo and enter Kokalyane. Be careful not to miss
the end stop of busses 1 and 4 at the so called Kokalyansko
Hanche, which is where you turn right again to reach the
meandering road up to the centre of the village. From
there you will want to reach Kokalyanska Cheshma (just
ask anyone for directions) and then up along the narrow
asphalt road towards the old militar y base.

breathtaking view of the

Iskar River filling the
Pancharevo Lake, the
lake itself and a small
section of the eastern
districts of Sofia, will
entice you to return
here again and again
and will leave a lasting
imprint in your heart
and soul. We have been
under its spell for many
years, but still not a
week passes before we
8
imagine this wonderful pageant of colors, trees, grass, flowers, waters and ethereal white clouds.

The sun is quite bright here and we may burn easily, so let’s hop back in the car to Lozen monastery.
To this end we have to get back to the crossing on the ring road, turn right towards Plovdiv again.

At some point you, just before a left turn, you the chapel, go out and turn back 180 degrees.
will see the sign for Lozen. Right after it make At the end of the meadow you will have an
a right turn which will take you through the unobstructed view towards Sofia Valley and
village . At the end, almost up until the final the eastern part that you will not be able to
stop of bus No 5, you will have to turn right see neither from Kopitoto, nor from Cherni
and follow the main road. It will lead you to Vrah. Everything is so flat; the Balkan is so
the Bulgarian Red Cross base. From there, we close; the tranquility is disturbed only by the
go on foot along the Lozen Mountain eco trail voices of tourists. You may sit down on a
and you will reach Lozen monastery. Enter stone and enjoy the view. Well don’t get too
through the monastery gate, light a candle in carried away, we would not want you to miss
the rest of the
interesting
t h i n g s .
Continue to
explore Sofia
and the nearby
regions. If you
wander what
to see next,
the following
pages will
offer some
interesting
options.

9
Vitosha
Speaking of views we mentioned
several times the beautiful Vitosha.
With its summit Cherni Vrah (the
Black Peak, 2290 m), it is the fourth
highest mountain in Bulgaria after
Rila, Pirin and the Balkan. Vitosha is
unique with its nature, location and
vision. First of all, it is the oldest
nature park on the Balkan peninsula,
established back in 1934. At the
same time two nature reserves
were created – Bistrishko Branishte
and Torfeno Branishte. Later,
Bistrishko Branishte was proclaimed
a biosphere reserve (one of only 16 in Bulgaria). author, Ivan Vazov, wrote in his travel notes: “This
The borders and size of the Vitosha park have waterfall; it seems that it comes not from the
changed numerous times and at present it spreads peaks of Vitosha, but somewhere from the vaults
over 27 000 hectares. From them nearly 24 000 of heaven, bringing with it the rays of the blue
hectares are forests. One of the highlights of the skies and the noise of their storms.”
park is the Boyana waterfall – the highest waterfall
in the mountain.

What shall we say about the nature itself. Only

4.5 km away from the centre of the Boyana district
lays the impressive Boyana waterfall. It is a nature
spot that leaves a man speechless. Only the noise
of falling water disturbs the mystic silence of the
area. Calmness reigns here; one feels as though
in trance. The waterfall is exceptionally beautiful
in spring, during high water. In 1920, after a trip But it is not the only beautiful place, let us not
to the waterfall the most prominent Bulgarian forget the Samokovisteto waterfall on Bistritsa
river. In the southern part of Vitosha, close to
Bosnek village, you can also visit the Duhlata area
which hosts the cave with same name. Duhlata
happens to be the longest cave in Bulgaria. Here
too you will find a wonderful spot for recreation.

Going proudly up! To Vitosha, of course! And

all of that is just steps away from the capital.

To fully comprehend the mountain, you have

to go there not just to show off where you’ve
10
been, but with a mind open to the different
atmosphere. People say that nature in Bulgaria is
something mystic, something heavenly, something
inexplicable. And people of Sofia can feel it up close
and personal. Here, even the air seems to be different.
It almost gives you strength to lift the mountain itself
and to run faster than Usain Bolt. Unique nature,
unique animal and plant species, unique climate and
atmosphere. And all of that so close to the capital!

Up there, above Sofia, the conditions for

winter sports are great: you can try to get down
the slopes with ski, snowboard, sleigh, or (as we
did in the third grade) just on a piece of nylon bag
(and a sturdy helmet). The most famous ski runs
are Vetrovala and Konyarnika. Getting there with
one of the 14 lifts is easy. Vitosha is also a paradise
for adrenaline junkies. And all of that is just steps
away from the capital!

Vitosha is a popular tourist destination. Vitosha has it all – beautiful nature, spots
There are over 40 mountain hostels and small for relax, different options for tourism and
hotels and 10 shelters. The Aleko hostel in the entertainment, good conditions for winter sports
area with the same name just below Cherni or just walks in the wild. Vitosha has a city and the
Vrah is worth a visit. A great place for family citizens of Sofia have a great mountain- protector!
trip or party with friends. And all of that so close to the capital! Europe
should envy us!

11
Urvich – the Last Stronghold
It is general knowledge that Bulgaria is among
the oldest states in Europe, which has preserved its
territories from its establishment up to the present day
(or at least most of them). However, not many people
know that during those 13 centuries of existence, there
were in fact three Bulgarian states (or as we call them
kingdoms or empires). The first one was in place since
the founding of Bulgaria in 681 A.D. until the country
fell under Byzantine rule in 1018. The Second Kingdom
existed from 1185 until the state was conquered by the
Ottomans in 1396. The Third State has been in place
since our Liberation from Ottoman rule in 1878 and
continues to the present day.

Now, we would like to tell you more about the

Second Bulgarian Kingdom and especially about its last
years, as well as about a fortress that has protected
Sofia (then known as Sredetz) and its neighbourhood
from Ottoman invasion. The name of that stronghold
is Urvich and there are two theories about the origin
of the name. One says that the fortress is named after
a local nobleman and the other argues that the name
comes from its location – it is perched on a precipice (in
Bulgarian “urva” or “urvishte”). The historic sources say the fortress was built in
the 13th century during the Second Bulgarian State.
Today, parts of the 6-m high walls, as well as parts of
the wall of the fortress’s church “St. Iliya”, still stand.
The stronghold was built on a steep rocky ridge along
the Iskar River (which used to be a lot deeper than it
is now) and the only access to the fort was through a
very narrow rocky path or through a rope bridge. Now
you cannot feel the thrill of trying to get to the fortress
but you can climb to the top and look down the cliffs.
We promise, the view of the precipice will instantly
transport you back to those times, especially if you have
shaky nerves.

Urvich was built at times when firearms were

unknown so it was constructed for defence with
bows and arrows, swords, spears, flails, and axes. It is
kind of different than using modern day weapons, isn’t
it? Imagine if a 1980s action hero, instead of shooting
12
 of Second Bulgarian Kingdom
everything down with M16 or another machine gun and
some bazookas, had to besiege the fortress armed only
with a sword and a spear. Funny, right? It is unlikely that
he would be able to do anything. And he would probably
learn something from the brave defenders of the walls,
some of whom were famous Bulgarian kings.

For example, King Ivan Alexander led his last battles

from this fortress and the areas around it before he
fell in battle in 1371 together with the large part of his
army of 7 000 men. His son Ivan Shishman was crowned At first the church had one nave and its interior was
king and Urvich became his stronghold and main camp divided into a sanctuary and a narthex. At the beginning
for his soldiers. For some ten years, the King did of the 13th century, the church was a modest simple
everything possible to keep hold of the fortress, alas, it structure with tiled gabled roof. After renovation,
was conquered by the Ottomans and so was the area probably needed after a fire or enemy attack or both in
around Sofia. Can you imagine what would befall on our the 14th century, the church became cross shaped: the
action hero were he there then? southern and northern walls were partially destroyed
and rebuilt. During remodelling the floor was raised
In the days of its existence the fortress encompassed by a meter and the building resembled inscribed free
an irregularly-shaped area spanning 350 m at its longest cross. A number of renovations followed to convert the
part and 150-200 m at its widest. Almost at the centre of church into a domed cross-shaped church.
the fortress lie the ruins of a church. Popular legends still
remind us that it was built to honor St. Iliya, and it has It is also convenient to take bus No 3 from the Geo
been scientifically proven that the first stone in the apse Milev bus station (in the district with the same name)
of the church was laid precisely on the holiday of the and travel along until you reach the bus stop named
saint. The way the church was built was similar to the Trudovak. Now is the time to ask what Trudovak means.
construction of the fortress. The stones are bound by It is the byword for a soldier in the so called Construction
white mortar and the structure is supported by wooden Forces in Bulgarian army during communist time. These
beams. were the people who built the road (as well as many
other large-scale infrastructure projects in Bulgaria). So,

To reach the for tress you will need

time and patience. You can reach the
bot tom of the hill with public transpor t
or a car and then climb up on foot.
Ur vich is perched at 728 m above sea
level, 2.14 km south of Kokalyane
village (par t of Sofia municipalit y).
In case you have GPS just punch the
following coordinates 42°33’32” N.L.
and 23°25’29” E.L.

13
the bus stop, named after the monument of the Trudovak,
is easy to recognize – the Socialist monument stands tall
among the bushes, and a small fountain is laid below it.
Almost idyllic. This is also the place to park if you decided
to drive to the fortress.

Now that you are at the Trudovak stop and if you are
prepared for the half an hour walk uphill, take the steep
path down to the Iskar river bed, turn left and go along a
well defined path. After 800 m you will reach a fork with
signs for St. Nikolay Letni monastery to the right and the
Urvich fortress to the left. After 10 or so meters you will
have to turn left and take an alley which will lead you to the
fortress. Climbing up along ruined walls (to the right) and
a 8-10 m long tower (left) you will reach another fork on
the road. To the right are the ruins of St. Iliya church and
the fortress itself. The wide alley will take you to a private
medieval-style building with limited access. Be careful, this
is not a part of the fortress area, but a private home and the guards (and dogs) are not particularly friendly. As soon
as you see it you would wish that it were a preserved part of the stronghold, but that is life. Just walk around it to
reach the partially preserved tower and walls. If you continue upwards you will reach the so called Starichina rock,
from where, the legend claims, the wife of King Ivan Shishman was thrown.

From there up you will pass through a beautiful forest and pleasant areas, some of which are used during the
weekend for picnic spots by many. So, grab the baskets, a bottle of fine wine and a camera, and up we go. If the
weather is good, you will not regret this trip even for a second.

14
 Vrana Park with Palace
Not far from Sofia, right beside the international
route between Sofia and Istanbul, spread over 100
hectares, lies Vrana park and palace complex.

Before the Liberation of Bulgaria from the

Ottoman rule, the place sported the „Chardakliata“
manor, owned by the Ottoman governor of Sofia -
Osman Pasha. In 1879, Hadji Bone Petrov, who took
part in Bulgarian Liberation movement alongside our
national hero Vasil Levski, first rented the place from
the governor‘s heirs and then bought it for 500 Turkish ornithologist (or simply a bird lover) and that had
Lira. At the end of the 19th century, Mr. Petrov had decided to name the manor after the first bird that
some financial troubles and was forced to mortgage lands on the roof of the palace. In a short while the
the lot to the Bulgarian National Bank. After his death, whole palace was perched by a whole flight of crows,
the Bank offered the place on public sale. Nikola typical for the area we call Sofia valley. So, both
Stranski, MD, a court pharmacist for King Ferdinant the palace and the park were named „Vrana“ (the
I, was the highest bidder. Only a week later, the King Bulgarian word for crow). Since 1912 the manor was
himself bought the plot from his doctor. officially renamed Vrana Palace. A foreigner, Anton
Kraus, started the spatial design of the park and
Smaller plots have been bought at the beginning skilfully directed the composition using the classic
of the 20th century to be added to the manor and the methods of the landscaping art of the 19th century.
unique park commissioned by King Ferdinand. Tens of The most valuable asset of the park, which now
bills of sale are still kept at the State Archives and are spreads over 1000 decares, is the diversity of plant
accessible to everyone. species - a whopping 800 of them. Wisterias, giant
redwoods, witch hazels, tulip trees. Plants from all
Rumour has it that King Ferdinand was a keen over the world. There are some representatives of

15
the floras of the Amazon jungle and Japan unique for Next stop is the bungalow of Georgi Dimitrov.
the Balkans. The park even featured a giant Victoria The wooden house was especially built for Bulgaria‘s
water lily which used to be quite a hit at that time. first Communist leader, who moved into the palace
after the royal family was evicted in 1946. Unfortunately,
The Vrana park and its palace at their artistic the cabin has not been restored and is not open for visits.
unity are a masterpiece of Bulgarian landscaping art Right next to the house is the Daalem rock garden
and architecture. The jewel in the crown is without
a doubt the palace itself. Its façade is an impressive
sight since it matches elements of Bulgarian
Revival architecture, the Secession, and the French
Classicism. The balconies resemble those of the Rila
monastery.

The palace has two main buildings. The first was

built in 1906 as a modern two-story hunting lodge.
Its architecture combines refined Secessionist
interpretation of Plovdiv Baroque with the Vienna
decorative system. The lodge is considered a created after Ferdinand’s idea. To bring the stones for
masterpiece of early 20th century architecture. the garden, a narrow gauge line from Kazichene to the
palace had to be built. The rock garden was designed by
The second building was built between 1909 the Austrian Johann Kelerer. It has two ridges - mount
and 1914 to be a palace. The construction of both Ferdinand (the former name of the summit of Balkan
buildings was financed by the state budget. mountain range, now called Botev) and mount Pirin .

The lily pond was built in 1909. The lilies for the Nearby is a memorial stone to mark the place
pond are grown in the Vrana greenhouse. They still where King Boris III was buried. In the past, there used
have some of the giant water lilies which can grow up to be a chapel there, but it has been demolished by the
to 2 meters in diameter. communist government in 1946. The legends say that in
1993 at this spot a soldier found a vial with the King‘s heart.

16
 The tour ends with a walk along the majestic platanus lane. It is totally worth it to sit down on a bench and
contemplate the clearings, shaped like pieces of art, between the trees. You can even see the Balkan from there.
Here also stands the king‘s oak, planted by Ferdinand himself.

In 2001, the Palace was returned to Simeon Saxe Cobourg Gotha, who gifted the manor to the
Municipality of Sofia that same year on the condition that the park becomes an open-air museum. At first,
Mr. Saxe Cobourg Gotha planned to gift 882 421 sq. m of the park but when the contract was drafted the
area expanded to 968 097 sq. m.

Since the 8th of June 2013 the Vrana Park has been
open for visits. Only guided tours are allowed along a
specially designated path. The park is open for visits
every weekend between 10 and 16 o‘clock. A direct line
runs between the park and the city centre during the
weekend. The line is 505 and starts from Orlov Bridge.
Regular bus fare applies; public transportation cards are
valid along the route.

The entrance for the Vrana park is 5 leva for

adults and 2 leva for children. Seniors and children
younger than seven are admit ted for free. Groups
of 15 to 20 people pay reduced ticket for 4 leva.

Reser vations for organised visits during the

week days can be made at w w w.parkvrana.com.

17
The Bells - Kambanite
„Do not ring the bells too loudly. Only concrete, surrounded by a steel rim with rings at its
children are allowed to ring the bells“ base where you can find 95 bells gifted by children
from all over the world. The monument is the
centrepiece of the Kambanite park. If you look up to
the top of the pillars you will notice that their upper
ends are cut to form an imaginary ball among them.
The ball is the globe and the pillars symbolize the four
cardinal points. The sculptors and architect decided to
fit seven bells with combined weight of 12 tons in this
space to symbolize the seven continents. The most
interesting part: at the bottom of the rising part of the
monument, there are 18 bells which resonate with
the seven ones on top to serve as accompaniment
during concerts. Even if you are not a kid and you
dare to ring the bells, violating the teasing notice, you
will feel for sure the unique composition of sounds
and the surrounding echo. There is something magic
in the way the whole mountain holds its breath and
pricks its ears to listen. It is said that each bell has
gathered the laughter of children of the country from
which it comes from.

Why are we talking about kids? The United

A sign like that will not suit any of the churches Nations proclaimed the year 1979 as the Year of
in Sofia. However this one is conveniently located Children. Gradually, an idea for gathering kids from all
in the outskirts of Vitosha, within the administrative
borders of the Bistritsa village, 14 km southeast from
the centre of the city.

The picturesque area known to locals as

Kambanite (the Bells) is a favourite place for
picnic to many because of the incredible view of
alternating hills and meadows. This is only part of
the experience. If you have ever wandered what do
the daughter of former leader of a socialist state,
the United Nations, the philosophical system of over the world started to take shape and later grew
Roerich, Leonard Bernstein, Herbert von Karajan to an international movement. So, Lyudmila Zhivkova,
and Gianni Rodari have in common. Their point of the daughter of the communist leader who ruled
intersection is ... the Bells. Bulgaria for 35 years, launched the idea of having an
International Children Assembly „Banner of peace“.
Breathtaking history lies behind the 37 m tall At first, the convention was supposed to be a one
monument, composed of four pillars of reinforced time event; however the huge response led to the

18
decision that the assembly will be held every three such as Leonard Bernstein, Herbert von Karajan and
years under the auspices of UNESCO. Gianni Rodari visit Bulgaria on the occasion of the
Assembly.
During the first convention on the 25th of August,
1979, when the monument was built, 68 bells were Today the bells are quiet as there are no more
placed and the builders inserted into the monument meetings of children of the world. The place however
a metal capsule with a message for the future still possesses magnetic beauty; it has collected a
generations. It reads „Children of the future please lot of philosophy
accept the indestructible fiery appeal of immortality and idealism into
- Unity, Creativity, Beauty“. And what is more a single holistic
impressive is that the monument was built for a really spirit, it calls for
short time - only 30 days and nights. For her active respect with the
role, a bas-relief at the bottom of the monument head-spinning
contains a sculpture of Lyudmila Zhivkova. The monument, and
communist leader‘s daughter was strongly influenced if you close your
by the ideas of Nicholas Roerich for preservation eyes it is quite
of the world’s cultural likely you will
heritage, hence the hear the laughter
motto of the project of these thousands, thousands of children who used
- „Unity. Creativity. to gather around the park.
Beauty“. There were
a total of four world Whether to look around or to have a picnic, you
meetings of children, will have no trouble reaching the park, you just have
during which Bulgaria to get to the ring road. As the area is close to Mladost
hosted 3900 kids from 4 district, just across the Business Park - Sofia every
138 countries. World bus line that connects you to either of these locations
famous personalities will be convenient.

19
PARK Somewhere Green: Sofia Parks
The cheapest and most amusing way to
spend your free time in Sofia is a walk in the
park. It sounds simple, but in Sofia it might be
a bit difficult. Just because there are so many
parks in the city.

In reality, Sofia is among the greenest

European capitals. Here you will find huge parks
with almost wild (in the most beautiful sense of
the word) spots and tiny lovely gardens, snuggled welcomes rowing boats and water wheels the
between the blocks. summer and becomes an ice skating ring in
the winter) has been a park ever since 1882.
As soon as the The municipal council of Sofia (then a young
spring sun rises capital city of the newly liberated Bulgaria)
over the horizon, decided to turn the Turkish military range into
all these green a European park. They commissioned a Swiss
places are swarmed gardener and started planting trees. However
with people (quite a new phenomenon in fact). the locals (known as Shops and famous for their
They would lie on the grass reading a book, stubbornness) met the idea of converting their
or have picnic, or play ball (or badminton, or land into a park with fierce resistance (and
even lacrosse), or just walk. Regardless of the armed one at that). Shootings did not stop the
activity, in the summer the parks become a intentions of the municipality and today there is
beehives buzzing with life. no reminder of this grim story.

The most central park „Borisova Gradina“ The park is well serviced, lights have been
with its emblematic lake „Ariana“ (which installed, and the municipal police, riding horses

20
(an attraction in itself), is making regular rounds.
This means that you can walk without fear, even
later in the evenings, to the famous lily pond or
the Common Grave monument. Or you might
try to beat a friend at table tennis at the tables

in front of cashiers of Bulgarian Army Stadium.

Or stay for a free concert at the summer stage.
Or have a drink in one of the many famous pubs.
Just a note - should you decide to walk along
the whole length of the park, wear comfortable shoes. The park starts at Orlov Bridge and ends as
far as the Maria Louisa pool in Darvenitsa district.

As strange as it may sound, Borisova is

not the largest park in Sofia. That would be
Zapaden (West) Park. As all parks in Sofia, it
has alleys, benches, playgrounds, but (and there
is alwaysa but) it also hides a pleasant surprise
- a mountain bike trail. Well, it lacks the incline
and the length of a real trail but still it offers
the same challenges - roots, curves, and jumps.
21
Find it hard to believe? Well, it is a place where is the only one of its size in Sofia. The park
already MINI-DH tournaments take place. is currently waiting for its renovation but
An unique solar clock can be found in until then you still have a chance to see a real
Severen (North) Park. It is unique because it Communist time playground complete with
Katyusha rocket launcher model for kids.

In terms of biodiversity, Yuzhen (South) Park

has no competition. It has 65 species of birds,
of which 29 are protected species, and 2 are in
the Red Book of Bulgaria for being on the verge
of extinction. And while environmental groups
are trying to put a stop of building construction
creeping towards the park, ducks and their
offspring are calmly swimming in the pond in the
park. They are used to people and will not mind
some breadcrumbs. There are only few less than

22
crowded areas. Almost everywhere there are
playgrounds. Beware of the rickshaws on the alleys.

If you are in to find some calmness in the

park, try Loven (Hunting) Park, located between
Borisova Gradina and Sofia Zoo. The asphalt there
is not as much and for a second you might be even
fooled to think that you are in the forest. Well, it
won’t last long; sooner or later you will stumble
upon the remnants of what used to be the only
amusement park in Sofia. The Park is often the
host of dog shows. A bit to the east, there are two gardens almost
touching. Right behind the central building of the
Sofia University is the Doctors‘ garden. It is a
common place for students in between classes.
Behind it is Zaimov Park, where just like that
there are a bunch of huge white stones. And it
was also the first place to have free public Wi-Fi.

Phew, while enumerating the parks with

names known to everyone, we ran out of space
for the rest of the green areas. And almost
every district has one: Druzhba has a lake and a
park around it, Knyazhevo has a mineral water

If you are not in the mood for park-ing, but

you would fancy sitting down on a bench in the
city - try the gardens. Some of them are big and
bustling with cafes - like the Gradska Gradina (City
Garden). It was built right in front of the King‘s
Palace and you can imagine that for quite a while
it was more a place for promenades rather that
entertainment. Now even the Mausoleum is gone.
But you can still sit down for a game of chess at the
marble chess tables while enjoying the coolness of
the fountain in front of the National Theatre.

fountain and a park around it, Studentski Grad

has a chapel and a park around it. Mladost has
nothing of these but it still has a park with a
stage.

So, grab the roller skates and badminton

racquets and enjoy an afternoon in the nature...
in the city.

23
Mineral Waters of Sofia
Not too long ago, at fairs around the country,
vendors would advertise their candy canes as cure-
alls. A less than melodious translation of their chants
would go „For stomach ailments, for heart aches, for
yearnings, for spleen troubles“. Well, this chant can
be applicable even now to Sofia‘s immense source of
health - its mineral waters.

Seriously, the Thracian city of Serdonpolis (Serdika)

was founded north of the warm mineral spring around
the Vladaya river. Even the Romans could not resist exclamation „Sofia is my Rome“, and speculations
some spa in the healing waters. The water which imply spa had something to do with it. Not only did
springs in front of the Central Bath in Sofia had been the Romans have a mineral bath near the centre of the
catched as early ancient city, but the rich ones also built some villas in
the 2nd century the vicinity of the hot spring in Pancharevo.
BC and had been
in use until 1912 And they were right to enjoy it - Sofia has 31
(after a number mineral water deposits with temperature ranging
of repairs) of between 20 and 81 degrees Centigrade. Vitosha is
course. Quite literally surrounded by two rings of mineral water – a
few notable hot and a cold one. The springs are over 75. The water
Roman emperors is suitable not only for washing and drinking but it is
a d m i r e d also truly healing. Studies show that it is favourable for
the healing different ailments- from tooth cavities to diseases of
properties of the the bone system, stomach aches, allergies, etc.
springs in Serdika.
Galerius, who Today there are only a few reminders of the
was terminally ill, spa-capital of Europe. Even the well known sight of
sought last relief people riding the public transport with several plastic
in his last days in his birthplace (yep, he was born here). containers meant to be filled at some mineral water
Constantine the Great even thought about moving his fountain has been slowly disappearing. In turn, some
capital in ancient Sofia. He was even attributed the Sofia waters are now
sold in bottles, while
others are still used for
laundry and car washing.

There was a time

when the mineral water
was used for the most
practical purposes - to
ensure the hygiene of
the population. Going

24
to the bath (once a week) was almost a ritual - one
would queue, buy a ticket and the necessary toiletries
(including a small bar of soap), tip the bath attendant
and take a swim in the mineral pool - and all of that to
be congratulated on the occasion of having a bath (and
that we still occasionally do).

Little remains of the splendour of the mineral

baths although they are remarkable monuments of
architecture. The Central Bath is now completely new homes of Sofia‘s healing waters, you can still
restored and despite the fact that it does not offer plop in the mineral pool in Pancharevo - the only one
the traditional spa services any more, it takes us working today. Be careful though as the water is 49
back to the years where locals queued for a shower. degrees Centigrade.
In 1911 the largest pubic bath on the Balkans was
opened in Bankya. It cost over a million golden leva. And instead of spending money on expensive
It is hardly a coincidence that the royal family had bottled water, take the bus to Gorna Banya or
separate bathrooms there. Today the bath is waiting Knyazhevo, or if you are short on time hop on the
for investors to restore its glory. metro to downtown mineral fountain and just pour
yourself a bottle. You will be sure that the water is
While waiting for the promised investments for pure and you will be healthier for a while.

25
Sofia’s Holy Mount
What do Dragalevski Monastery “St. Mary
of Vitosha”, Kokalyane Monastery “St. Archangel
Michael”, Pancharevo (Urvich) Monastery “St. Nicolay
Lenti”, Kremikovtsi Monastery “St. George”, Pasarel
Monastery “St. Apostles Peter and Paul” have in
common? Apart from the word “monastery” of
course. They are all parts from a religious and church
complex called the Holy Mount of Sofia or Little Athos.

It is named after Mount Athos, but unlike the

original which has only 20 monasteries, the one in
Sofia has 44 of them and they are all functioning. Its
history traces back to the Second Bulgarian Kingdom
(1185-1396), when it was quite trendy for Bulgarian
king to build, sponsor and support of monasteries and
churches.

With the huge diversity of still functioning

monasteries, the farthest being only half an hour away
from the city, Sofia offers a good start for pilgrimage
and the possibility to immerse yourself into the times
when having your name proudly inscribed as a church- Shishman. It used to provide refuge and a meeting place
donor was a huge expression of esteem, honour and for our national hero Vasil Levski and his comrades
respect. from the Bulgarian Revolutionary Committee. Today,
the monastery and the adjacent bishop residence form
a picturesque complex.

Then proceed east to Kokalyane Monastery “St.

Archangel Michael”, built by King Samuil in the 11th
century at the base of Manasteriste peak. It is famous
for the Kokalyane Gospel by John of Kratova and
the Urvich collection of veneration speeches about
archangels Michael and Gabriel (including a veneration
speech by Kliment Ohridski, one of the first teachers
in Cyrillic alphabet) as well as 26 pages with donors’
certificates from
the 16th, 17th and
For a starting point, do choose the Dragalevski the 18th century.
Monastery “St. Mary of Vitosha” in the skirts of the Together with
mountain, 2 km away from the Dragalevski district. the Pancharevo
It was built by King Ivan Alexander during the 14th ( U r v i c h )
century and was supported by his son King Ivan Monastery “St.

26
Nicolay Lenti”, and the fortress’s church “St. Iliya” King Ivan Alexander. One of the donors was Sofia
form the Urvich fortress complex. noble Radivoy, who built the monastery in memory
of his children – Todor and Dragana. The preserved
If you continue along the high ridges of Plana you Kremikotsi gospel is still an example of calligraphy and
will reach the Pasarel Monastery “St. Apostles Peter hints that the monastery was probably literary centre
and Paul”. It was established in the 15th century,
probably as a chapel. On the outside it seems modest –
no antechamber, no dome. But it is ornately decorated
with murals – valuable for their scenes and flavour.

The final point of your pilgrimage might be the 13th

century Kremikovtsi Monastery “St. George”, which
as many Sofia monasteries dates back to the Second
Bulgarian Kingdom. Most probably, it was funded by

at the time. Probably, it has provided support for the

nearby monasteries in Seslav and Eleshnitsa.

When you cross the threshold of any of these

places, do not forget to light a candle for those before
us, for us, and for those that will follow. That is how
tradition goes.

27
Sofia – A Religious Crossroad
A crossroad of religions?! Yes, this is the unique cohabitation of major world religions in just half a square km.
In the heart of Sofia you can find the “St. Nedelya” Eastern Orthodox church, the “Banya Bashi” mosque, the “St.
Joseph” Catholic church and the Sofia Synagogue. A few blocks contain the places of worship for eastern and western
Christians, Muslims and Jews. If we go deeper into the etymology of Sofia, we see that the name itself means “Holy
wisdom of God” in Greek, as a host of wisdom of religious tolerance.

We could try to find the roots of this religious tolerance in the thousands of years of history of the city. A
settlement of the Thracians, a town in the empire of Alexander the Great, one of the centres of medieval times, part
of the Ottoman empire and after 1878 – the capital of Bulgaria. If you look from the bell tower of St. Nedelya, the
church at the square before the Sheraton hotel and Serdika Metro Station, you will see Banya Bashi at the opposite

corner. Both temples have a long history.

St. Nedelya church is the cathedral of Sofia Bishopric. During the 19th and in the first decades of the 20th century,
the church was called “St. King” since it was the resting place of the relics of Serbian king Stefan Uros II (1282-1321).
On the verge of the 20th century the church was renovated and it preserves its appearance to this day. In 1915,
Bulgarian exarch Joseph I was buried near the side altar door.

Banya Bashi Mosque is built in 15456-1557 on the initiative and with the financial support of the benefactor mullah
Effendi Kada Seifdullah. That is why some sources refer to the temple as Mullah Effendi or Kada Seifdullah mosque.
The architect was Mimar Sinan, famous for building the so called sultan style mosques – the most beautiful and
representative ones.
28
 Just a bloc away, on Exarch Joseph Str. stands the building started in 1978. It now hosts a church, a college
Jewish temple – Sofia Synagogue. It is the third largest and a concert hall. In 2002, in the presence of Pope John-
synagogue in Europe after those in Budapest and Paul II, a stone was laid for a new temple. The newer, bigger

Amsterdam (and the largest one on the Balkans). The cathedral opened its doors for worshippers in 2006.
idea for its construction came around in 1903 to replace
the existing smaller temple. The project was drafted For centuries, Sofia has been a point of intersection
by the Austrian architect Friedrich Gruenager who of many ethnicities, peoples and religions. A place
modelled the Synagogue after the Viennese one. where you can submerge in the calmness of religious
tolerance. St. Nedelya, Banya Bashi, St. Joseph, and the
On Knyaz Boris I Str., there is the Catholic cathedral Sofia Synagogue are not just places of worship, but they
St. Joseph, which is happens to be the biggest in Bulgaria. encompass diverse cultures, beliefs, and ideologies just 5
The idea for the construction emerged in 1975 and the minutes away from each other.

29
Deunov
A tall white figure with long hair and beard
of The one who brings the good through speech
is rising above France, USA and Bulgaria since
Ottoman times. According to word of mouth,
this man was even recognised by Einstein, who
tells French RTF radio in 1964: The whole world
bows before me, and I bow before the spiritual
master Peter Deunov from Bulgaria. Beinsá Dunó
(in Sanskrit The one who brings the good through
speech) or just the Master, as his followers call
him, are among the names of Peter Deunov – the
founder of world-wide philosophic and religious
movement. The teachings of Deunov combine Izgrev district, named after the settlement Izgrev,
esoteric Christianity and occultism, and his founded by Deunov in 1927. Then the place was
followers are organised in the White Brotherhood. the highest point of Sofia valley. The garden sits
just in front the Russian embassy, and the metro
Deunov was born in 1864, when Bulgaria was (Jolio Curie station), busses 120 and 413, and tram
under the Ottoman rule. He studied theology in 18 will easily bring you nearby.
the Boston University, USA. When he returned to
Bulgaria he started his famous lectures in which Close to the garden, called by his followers
he preached Christian virtues like love, wisdom, The Master’s Place, is the White House (6 Shteryu
truth, justice and patience. In 1922, the first School Atanasov Str) – a centre for prayer and assembly
of Universal White Brotherhood in Sofia. And a of the white brothers.
large part of his life is related to the capital.
A paramount to Deunov’s teaching is the
If you are into the transcendent or just Paneurhythmy, invented by him. This is a series
interested where the place where the person of exercises, performed in a circle, along with
considered by many to be Christ Reborn, you music, words and specially designed methodical
must visit the Garden of Deunov. The place is movements. The people who practice it claim
specially selected and built. The garden is a round that it connects them with nature, charges them
area and during the spring and autumn equinox
the rays entwine in such way that they form a
shaft of light pointing at the centre of the space.
The place is full of cute wooden benches and is
often visited by white doves, who eat from special
feeding racks; white stones are used to pave the
alleys and the garden is the home of many rose
species and fruit laden trees, brought from all over
Bulgaria. The meditation fans, the people seeking a
sip of peace in the noisy city, diplomats, foreigners,
mothers, people young and old frequent the place.
It is easy to reach. The garden is located in the

30
with energy, and the whole “dance” is experienced the village Deunov discovered a spring he called
more like a trance – a separation from the flesh The Spring of Good. Many believe that the water
and material and unity with the spiritual. Every from the mountain stream is healing and come to
day from the 22nd of September and the 22nd of it with hope.
March, Sofia is a floor for Paneurhythmy. Yuzhen
park and the garden below the Broadcast Tower Deunov is one of the most mystic figures
(last stop of tram 18) are the places where the in Bulgarian history. He was persecuted for his
white brothers convene to dance the century old original ideas, but many of his followers believe
exercises. he was Christ Reborn, although he rejected the
suggestion. King Boris III regularly sought the
Master’s advice on societal and political issues,
while Bulgarian Church considers him a heretic.
If you would like to get in touch with something
mystic and deeply philosophical, if you would like
to see the occult dance of the White Brotherhood
or just sip from the Spring of Good, Sofia can
surely offer a part of the heritage of BeinsӚ Dunӝ.

The only museum of Peter Deunov is in

Marchaevo village, 16 km southwest from Sofia on
the way to Pernik. Here, everything is preserved
the way it was when the Master stayed in the
house, which became a museum in 1943. While
hiding from the bombing of Sofia by the Allied air
force, Deunov lectured in the village. Just next to
31
The Yellow Cobblestone
Sofia is unique and it can proudly show a lot
of symbols. But the one that characterizes its
core is the street paved with yellow cobblestone.
It is the contemporary symbol of a place, which
has soaked thousands of years of history, wisdom
and memories. How could they survive wars,
calamities, earthquakes, sieges, bombings and even
the occasional souvenir collectors?

According to the legends, the yellow cobble

stones were a gift from the royal family of Austro-
Hungary on the occasion of the wedding between
Bulgarian King Ferdinand I with Eleonore Reuss
of Koestritz, cousin of the great Russian queen for the generations. Many famous people and
Maria Pavlovna. They were cast in Budapest and remarkable events have imprinted them. Leafing
laid at the beginning of the 20th century. Facts tell through these stones we can see parades, funerals,
a different story. The cobble stones were indeed concerts, sports events, demonstrations, joy, and
imported from Austria-Hungary, but not on the sadness.
occasion of VIP event but rather after the initiative
of the then mayor of Sofia Martin Todorov. Few locals know that the building of the
National Assembly was initially located in the
The cobble stones pave the heart of Sofia. We Gradska Gradina (City Garden) where the Sofia
see them before the Alexander Nevsky cathedral, City Gallery now resides. Later, it was temporarily
then around the Parliament and the former Royal moved to Moskovska Street (now a restaurant). The
Palace, close to the National Theater. The yellow most valued possession in the current beautiful and
cobble stones are like scattered pieces of history. quite symbolic building are the wooden benches for
Everyone who steps a foot on them sets a memory the members of parliament (then 120, now 240).

32
The present ones are crafted from boiled beech in St. Alexander Nevsky, the patron of Russian army
the 1960s using unique methods. They have been during the war in question. The solemn ring of the
assembled in whole rows in quite a complex way. biggest church bell filled with sound the air of Sofia
However, the most impressive part is the northern for the first time in 1913 to celebrate the Bulgarian
foyer with its white staircases and two rows of army victory in Edirne. The official consecration of
columns. If you can get in, look at the enormous the temple took place in 1924. In size, decoration,
crystal Austrian chandelier, weighing more than architecture and grandeur, the St. Alexander
a ton. The library is too a hidden treasure. Only Nevsky Cathedral rivals any tourist attraction
here all stenographic diaries documenting every worldwide. Over the main arched entrance with
session of the parliament since its founding in 1879 three doors rises the bell tower, finished with a
can be found. Few people know that the famous golden dome. The dome is supported by three
national motto inscribed on the building “Unity columns with wide openings displaying a view of
makes strength” has been removed only once: in the 12 bells cast in and imported from Moscow.
1938 when it was changed to “In unity is strength). In total the bells weigh 25 tons. If the weather is
The change was less than welcome and the old
inscription was restored.

The Bulgarian legislative neighbours the biggest

temple on the Balkans – the Patriarch’s Cathedral
“St. Alexander Nevsky”. It was built in honour
of the 200 000 soldiers who have fell for the
Liberation of Bulgaria from Ottoman rule during
the Russo-Turkish war (1877-1878). That is why
it is also a memorial church. It was named after

33
 and the proclamation
of Sofia for capital
(1879). After 9th
of September 1944
(when Communists
came into power) the
building became the
seat of the Council of
Ministers and doubled
as a residence for the
new statesmen. Since
1953, the building was
granted (with a Council
of Ministers decree)
for the exhibition and
administration of the
National Gallery of Art
fine the biggest bell can be heard 30 km outside which keeps over 50 000 works of art of famous
Sofia. The bigger bells fancy reliefs of Jesus Christ, Bulgarian artists, 3 000 of which are on display
St. Mary, St. Alexander Nevsky, St. Sofia, St. Cyril even now. The building also hosts the Ethnographic
and St. Methodius, as well as memorial inscriptions Museum. The Palace was proclaimed a monument
with old-style interlaced design. The cathedral of culture in 1978.
owns over 400 exhibits of Christian art.
The most attractive building for generals, actors,
Let us not forget the Monument to the Tsar the and even pop-folk starlets is undoubtedly the Central
Liberator, known to locals as Konya (the Horse). Military Club. It was one of the first grand public
It has been erected to represent the gratitude of
Bulgarian people to Alexander II of Russia and in
honour of the Liberation. The figure of the Tsar on
a horse is made of bronze. The middle part of the
pedestal features Nike (the ancient Greek goddess
of victory) leading the people to battle. In memory
of the Romanian soldiers who participated in the
Russo-Turkish Liberation War, Romanian king Carol
I donated a bronze wreath placed on the front of
the monument. The inscription reads “Tsar the
Liberator, grateful Bulgaria”. The construction was
funded through donations of Bulgarian members of buildings after the Liberation. It now welcomes
parliament and King Ferdinand, as well as through people of all ages and interests – it hosts everything
the sale of a special postal stamp featuring a portrait from fashion shows to celebrations of Astronauts’
of Alexander II. Day and on a busy day there are 7 to 11 events in the
club. During prom or Christmas season, events go up
Another imposing building bound to catch your to 150-200 per month. Ever since it opened its doors
eye along the golden street is the former King for the first time the Central Military Club has been
palace, built immediately after the Liberation (1878) an entertainment centre for the elite.

34
 probably by the belief that they are miraculous.
There is a special urn for prayers and notes
addressing the relics expressing the worshippers
most cherished wishes, their pains and sufferings
and requests for help.

Bulgarian National Bank further along provides

a reading of the our economy from the Liberation
to the present day. This is one of the oldest
institutions established more than 135 years ago.
It now occupies a grandiose place on the yellow
cobblestone street. An interesting fact is that the
Printing Works (the place where actual money is
printed) was opened only in 1998 almost 120 years
after the foundations of the first state bank were
laid.

Some 13 years ago we wanted our capital to

go into the new millennium with something new,
something unseen and rarely done. So in the year
2000 the 8 m high statue of St. Sofia, which has
now become a symbol of our ancient capital, was
The building impresses not only with the installed. The 4 ton figure made of bronze and
imposing facade, reminding us of times long gone, galvanized copper stands on a 14 m high pillar
but also with the remarkable interior. The stairway above Serdika metro station. The author of the
is tiled with black Italian marble with silver wire monumental piece, which evoked much public
inserts. Even the parquet is symbolic – the figures debate and some discontent, is famous Bulgarian
of the King’s St. George cross are still preserved. sculptor Georgi Chapkanov. The blessing hand of
The Baroque concert hall is one of its kind in Sofia. St. Sofia holds a wreath, and the other holds an
It can hold 500 people. On the ceiling a heavy owl, symbol of wisdom.
chandelier with 48 000 Swarovski crystals shines
4.5 m above the seated public. Acoustic pots built Yellow cobblestones … Over them beats
in the walls ensure the unique sound. today the living rhythm of the city.

Our next stop on this exciting trip along the

golden street is one of the most beautiful churches
in Sofia – St. Nicholas the Miracle-Maker. It is called
the Russian church since it is built on a lot owned
by the Russian embassy at the end of the 19th
century to serve the needs of Russian immigrants in
Bulgaria. The crypt is the resting place of the relics
of Archbishop Seraphim, who is still not canonised
as a saint by the Russian Orthodox Church, but
is revered by many Bulgarians and Russians. Many
come to Sofia to bow before his relics attracted

35
Ancient Sofia
A true time machine is working
at the heart of Sofia – the museum
under St. Sofia basilica. Just across
the St. Alexander Nevky cathedral,
to the right of the Monument to the
Unknown Soldier and the eternal
flame, rises the three nave temple,
build in the necropolis of ancient
Sofia, over remnants of older
churches from the 4th century. In
the beginning of the 20th century,
a Czech, Vaclav Dobruski began
digging under the St. Sofia basilica
and discovered that the place has
been a centre of historical events
since Roman times. The entrance to this centre is his line “Serdika is my Rome”. More than 50 tombs
inside the church itself, to the right of the candle have been discovered under the basilica. One of
and religious paraphernalia kiosk. Just few steps the most interesting is a 4th century tomb with
below the ground take the visitor in another era. preserved floral motifs symbolizing the Garden of
Eden. Displays also include two rings belonging to
Bulgarian kings and a reliquary of a Christian saint
who died defending his faith. Other treasures are
the exquisite mosaics with geometrical figures,
flowers, peacocks and crosses; they show that the
interior of the holy site was decorated only by the
best craftsmen. Computers generate images of
how the centre of ancient Serdika looked with its
amphitheatre, main streets and churches build on
the same spot. The worshippers in the church can
see what is happening in the museum from special
windowed openings on the floor of the basilica.
Today St. Sofia and the museum below tell the story
The exhibits in the newly opened museum of the city and interweave the charm of the cultural
collect 18 centuries of history in one place. The heritage with the human connection to God.
visitors may get to know the past of the main
necropolis of Ancient Serdika and the earlier The entrance fee is 6 leva, a 2 leva discount fee
churches under the basilica. In the dim light, you applies to seniors and students.
may view restored graves, holograms of objects
unearthed here, replicas of ancient mosaics, etc. Only a kilometre away, in the direction of
Information signs tell about famous personalities Serdika metro station, we already walk along the
and emperors who visited the city, helped it, loved main street of the ancient city. We pass through
it. One is Constantine the Great, who is famous for houses on our right and our left, a bit farther

36
along is the public bath. We reach the forum – the Alexandrov and Maria Louisa (and its continuation
central square. It is precisely on the spot of the Vitosha) respectively.
underground passage of the Sheraton hotel. Did
we transport you at least for a moment to the city One of their kind archaeological artefacts
that existed 1700 years ago? Who did really thread dating from ancient to medieval times were dug up
along these streets? The fact is that Sofia today has during the enlargement of Serdika metro station
largely inherited the planning of ancient Serdika. It three years ago. Now, the construction of antiquity
is truly unique that the two main streets of the old cultural and information complex is under way
city Cardo and Decumanus Maximus intersected at on this spot. It will put Sofia along cities rich in
the underground passage where St. Petka church history like Athens and Rome. It will enable every
still stands. Nowadays these two streets are Todor citizen and guest of the capital to walk around
ancient Serdika starting from the eastern gate
of the city (now on display in the underground
passage between the Presidency and the Council of
Ministers, along via principalis (a fancy Roman name
for main street), stepping on original pavement,
surrounded by the bases of the columns which
used to stand there. Then pass along the exhibition
complex and enter the underground museum, the
glass workshop and the public bath. Above the
ground these steps will be traced with colorful
paints along the streets. While arriving to work

37
 glass dome that will provide panoramic view over
the ruins while letting daylight underground at
the same time. The idea is to recreate a “second”
antique centre of the city in the form of unique
underground museum.

At the same time, archaeologist who research

the space under St. Nedelya square have discovered
three large public buildings where the governance
of ancient Serdika apparently sat. The scientists
are not completely sure about the exact function
of these buildings but their digging for truth will
continue. One hypothesis claims the area contains
the residence of Constantine the Great (used
while the emperor was in town). Another theory
suggests that there laid the praetorium (the seat
of the military governor – the strategist – of the
town).
with the metro the citizens of Sofia, as well as the
guests who stroll around, will pass through ancient It is also likely that one of this buildings will
artifacts displayed in the underground station. Also, turn out to be the ancient mint. This would be a
we will see the remnants of a wall from Ottoman huge discovery not only because we may discover
times. We will also view the interesting remains of some money, but also because it might reveal
ancient houses, rectangular in shape with an inner what instruments were used. It seems those are a
courtyard surrounded by columns and arches. particularly rare and valuable find.
These houses were probably built in 4th to 6th
century but were still inhabited during medieval Usually the residence and the praetorium
times. The area between the Council of Ministers formed the forum (or downtown) of the city. It
and the Presidency will be pedestrian with much is believed that the present square mimics the
greenery and spots to rest. borders of the ancient forum. According to
theories, the old one was surrounded by statues.
The construction of the metro in 2010 also
unearthed two churches. The smaller one was It is all to be uncovered...
built in the 14th century and experts conjecture
it contains valuable murals. The other was open
between the 17th and the 19th century and had a
graveyard in the yard.

Digging continues mainly by hand so that the

precious discoveries are preserved.

The upcoming Serdika complex will match

contemporary communication facilities with ancient
streets and buildings. It will have two levels – above
and below ground. The complex will also feature a

38
 The Triangle of Powers
The Triangle of
Powers: sounds a bit
pompous, a bit heavy,
a bit old-fashioned.
But we cannot get
around that – after
all we speak about
power and governance;
associations are too
many and too diverse.
Massive buildings with
long history and many
traditions; the places
where order and law
are forged and so is
our face to the world:
the Presidency, the
Council of Ministers,
the National Assembly. (TZUM) and Sheraton Hotel Balkan. The new
architectural plan of Sofia, which redesigned
They are part of the impressive architectural the centre including the Largo, was adopted
complex in the ideal centre of the capital, in 1951. The end result was the fruit of the
called the Largo. The complex also includes efforts of a big team influenced by the then
the buildings of the Central Deparment Store domineering Soviet aesthetics. The style was
then defined as “late
Socialist eclectics”,
which seems to mean
lack of unity of styles
of the facades of the
different buildings.

The Presidency
building is the home
of the Bulgarian
head of state and
his administration.
The edifice was built
between 1954 and 1956.
Its architect was Ivan
Danchov. The façade
follows the socialist
eclectic style. The front

39
is tiled with limestone from Ruse, and the Since the Liberation from the Ottoman rule
interior is dominated by a large selection of and the adoption of the Turnovo Constitution,
works of art, mainly oil paintings by Bulgarian the Council of Ministers (the government) has
artists. been the supreme executive organ throughout
the newest history of Bulgaria. Since 1879,
The most impressive from all Presidency a total of 86 governments have ruled over
halls is the so called Coat of Arms Hall where Bulgaria. The building at the Triangle of Power
most contracts, agreements and treaties is the office of the Prime Minister, his deputies
are signed and where the state insignia and occasionally other ministers.
are awarded. In reality, the President’s
administration occupies only the first three Everyone who has entered the building at
floors of the seven story building. The rest least once has felt a strange tingling on their
of the place is for the Ministry of Education back. Interior design specialists say this is
and Science, Ministry of Justice and other not by mere chance. The building is designed
institutions. Apart from being and important in the so called Stalinist vampire style,
state institution by itself, the Presidency which uses architecture to convey just how
started attracting even more visitors after the powerful the rule is and how insignificant the
new main entrance was constructed in 1999 person is without this rule. That is also why
to open a view of the St. George the Dragon the edifice is build like a citadel: with huge
Slayer rotunda. At the parade entrance, heavy columns, thick walls and little windows,
National Guard stands sentry making rounds looking like arrow slits. Together with TZUM,
every hour. the Party Headquarters and the Presidency
forms an ensemble that is believed to be

40
one of the safest
points during
earthquake.

The Party
Headquarters
used to be the
main building
of the Central
Committee of
the Bulgarian
C o m m u n i s t
Party during the
times of People’s
Republic of
Bulgaria. Today
it is the part of
the Parliament
offices. The
edifice spreads
over 40 000 sq m and is finished in neoclassical style with distinct overtones implying triumph,
celebration and grandeur to mark (and glorify) the victory of the Bulgarian Communist Party
on the 9th of September, 1944. The pompousness of the outside is achieved with strictly
symmetrical façades and the large scale Corinthian order forms. On the inside, the corridors
are almost 3 km long. There are two big halls – St Sofia with 900 seats and the Coat of Arms
Hall, which is 18 by 11 m. At the top of the front wall, on the pillar now nesting the Bulgarian
flag, between 1954 and 1990, there used to be a red star similar to the ones that the Bolsheviks
erected over the Kremlin in Moscow in the 1930s. Today the original Star No 1 can be seen in
the Socialist Art Museum.

41
C o m m u n i s t S o f i a ;
They have been often accused for lacking art
value, for being unaesthetic or plain ugly, and for
ruining the city landscape. They were considered
too big, having too much concrete, too protruding
just to be seen from any point of the city. But they
are symbols of time long gone and they seem to
have captured its spirit – they are solid, massive
and almost indestructible. We are talking about
socialist monuments in Bulgaria. Many former
socialist countries keep these communist symbols
not to be reminded of their painful past, but rather
to instill romantic attitude towards the past as a
whole. The rejection of these monuments in
Bulgaria started right after the Communist regime
and Todor Zhivkov, the Chairman of the State
Council (de facto head of state) and Chairman of
the Bulgarian Communist Party, were overthrown.
Under the pressure of some right-wing politicians
at the beginning of the 1990s, some of the
Communist monuments have been removed,
while others remain but were left unattended by
the municipal authorities. It seems that we have that time – the art. There is no space for, say,
neglected something that might be of interest of propaganda or political songs like the museum in
tourists. East Germany, which is showing the lives of citizens
of the GDR. To be fair, our museum has not set
Let us start our tour back in times not so long on a mission to make a deep and comprehensive
ago with the Museum of Socialist Art. The idea for analysis of the period between 1944 and 1989;
opening the museum has stirred controversy – not it aims to remind the older generations and
because it is depicting socialism but rather because to acquaint the newer ones with what we call
it just presents only one aspect of the spirit of socialist art: paintings and monuments influenced
by Socialist Realism, propaganda and ideology, and
depicting communist guerrillas (partizani), leaders
of work teams (brigadiri) and party leaders.

The museum is a branch of the National Gallery

of Art. It opened on the 19th of September 2011
and although many locals were not particularly
happy, the museum became an attraction for
foreign tourists.

The first thing you see when you enter the

Museum is the red star that used to adorn the

42
 S o c i a l i s t s y m b o l i s m
former Party HQ and Paintings are exhibited inside. You can see
later spent quite a depictions of historical events as well as pictures
while in the yard of of life like the people greeting of the Soviet
the Central Bath. The Liberation Army, institution of local Communist
museum has exhibits party branch, bombings over Sofia. The inside
on the outside and exhibition is accessible to people in wheelchairs
on the inside. The via elevator.
yard is dedicated
to sculptures. Over
7500 sq. m, along
nice green alleys stand 77 sculptures. A 5-m tall
statue of Georgi Dimitrov (leader of the Bulgarian
Communist Party, Secretary General of the
Communist International 1935-1943, and Prime
Minister of Bulgaria 1946-1949) rises in the centre
of the park. Tens of other statues and bas-reliefs,
predominantly of Communist chiefs like Lenin, but The museum has a video hall running
also of workers, soldiers and others, collected from documentaries about the Socialist times, and
all over Bulgaria, are spread through the park. sometimes more recent pictures telling us about
the events after 1989.

Let us not forget the Monument to the Soviet

Army. You can find it easily as it lies in the perfect
centre of the city on Tsar Osvoboditel Blvd
between Orlov Bridge and the Sofia University.
The sculptural group includes a triumphant Soviet
soldier with raised submachine gun, with two
people on his sides – a peasant woman and a
working man from Bulgaria.

Interested to see more? The museum is

in Iz tok district, on 7 Lachezar Stanchev Str
(close to the Traf fic Police). You can easily
reach it with Metro to G.M. Dimitrov Station,
or with busses 280 and 88. It is open Tuesday
to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. Closed
on Monday. Tickets cost 6 leva from for
adults and 3 leva for students and seniors.
You can also book a guided tour by calling
+359 2 9021802. Guided tours cost 20 leva
for groups under five and 30 leva for groups
over five people.

43
 For over 30 years already
the place is a central meeting
point for youths with more
rebellious views of life. Since
the beginning of the Transition
to democracy, the monument
has been an object of heated
discussions regarding its
meaning and future.

It might be interesting for

you to know that the Monument
is often painted with graffitti
usually with anti-communist and
anti-Soviet messages. One of
the most popular design (dating
from the 17th of June 2011) when the reliefs on rest of the sides featured writings “Apologize!”
the pedestal were painted like American pop and and “Prague ’68”. It turned out to be an apology
comic book characters: The Mask, Wolverine, the to the Czech Republic on the occasion of defeat
Joker, Santa Claus, Supermen, Captain America, of the Prague Spring rebellion.
etc. On the 21st of August 2013, the front of the
monument was covered again, this time in pink, The monument to fighters against fascism
and inscribed in Czech and Bulgarian “Bulharsko called Bratskata Mogila (the Common Grave)
se omlouva!!!“ and “Bulgaria apologizes!!!“. The is located in Borisova Garden. Under it rest

44
the remains of 17
prominent activists
of the Bulgarian
Communist Party and
the Worker’s Youth
Union, who lived and
worked in Sofia, and
died fighting against
fascism. The central
part of the monument
is a 41-m tall obelisk,
symbol of the rise of the
communist party. It is
made from granite from
Rila. Under the obelisk,
there are two bronze
guerrilla warriors (a
man and a woman) who
herald freedom for the
people. Wreaths are
placed on both sides
of the monument to
symbolize the victory
from the 9th of
September 1944.

Speaking of symbols
from communist times
we cannot fail to
mention the biggest
convention centre
for conferences,
exhibitions and special events in South East Europe – the National Palace of Culture (eNDeKa). The
idea came from the Sofia branch of the Communist Party and in particular from Lyudmila Zhivkova,
daughter of the former First Man Todor Zhivkov).

NDK was built in less than 4 years despite that the plans required 12 years for its construction. It
was opened in March 1981 in honour of the 1300 birthday of the Bulgarian State.

The Palace has about 10 000 tons of metal structures, just as much as the Eiffel Tower in Paris.
NDK was built on 18 300 sq m and its all-out area is 123 300 sq m. It has eight floors and three
more underground with 13 halls for 100 to 4000 people, and 55 conference rooms. The Palace
offers 15 000 sq m exhibition area. In 2005 NDK was awarded the annual prize AIPC Apex Award
which distinguishes the world’s best convention centres.

45
Military might and glory-National
You have heard about communism, right?
There is hardly a person who hasn‘t. Then you
probably know about its military power which
instilled fear throughout the whole Western
world for more than four decades. The two blocs
competed fiercely when it came to armament
and what is more they exported many of their
weapons to other countries. So, at some point,
many countries had at their disposal a formidable
arsenal including tanks, jets, rockets, light firearms
and so on. Surely, you must want to learn more
about that and see these notorious arms. Well at
least we do.

If that is the case, we have good news. If you

want to know more about the military prowess
of Bulgaria and the Socialist Bloc, or you just And do you remember or have you heard
wander just how big these weapons are, come to about the missiles SS-23 OKA, Scud and Frog?
the National Museum of Military History. Here, at They are here too, you just have to walk a little
over 40 decares, you can see 241 examples of arms more along the alleys of this wonderful courtyard
used in artillery, anti tank weapons, the air forces, wit well groomed grass and alleys.

the navy, rocket and engineering equipment. Before you know you might even find other
interesting metal birds used in different conflicts
Just imagine how you step behind the fence, around the world like the MiG15 and MiG17. But
take a walk up the alley, turn right and there just did you know that MiG15 was one of the most
before you stand formidable fighter jets MiG 21 or produced and used military fighter jets in history
MiG 23. You look to the side and a bit further you with its first flight was made in 1948? Nearby, you
see the holy terror - the military chopper MI 24. can see an example of modern weaponry of NATO
46
 Museum of Military History
forces –Tornado variable jet.

You are not that much into

flying? Just pass the aircraft and
you will end up near pieces of
military equipment which have
already been a bit forgotten -
tanks. If you are a fan, you will
be tempted. You can look at
the Soviet T72, T55, T34, the
light tanks Hotchkiss, Skoda,
Maybach, or enjoy diverse
armoured vehicles.

You would like to

touch something different,
something big and dangerous? We can understand, and your wish is easy. After a short walk in the
courtyard you will find yourself among so many artillery, howitzers and cannons that your head
will start spinning. Maybach T-3, Maybach T-4, SAU-76, SAU-100, 152 mm self propelled artillery
Akatsiya and 122 mm self propelled howitzer Gvozdika stand proud and wait for fans. The displays
include different system of guns - Krupp, Schneider, dome cannon Gruson, anti-tank guns Skoda,

47
Reinmetal, ZIS-2, ZIS-3, MT-12, mountain and Bulgarian history, the ideas and heroes of the
field cannons as well as the only preserved air national freedom fights, the 130-year long
defence gun KS-30 in Bulgaria.

It seems that you had enough walking

around outside and being startled by the big
guns. Come and take a look inside. The indoor
exhibition is just as interesting. For its almost a
century-long existence, the museum treasures
over one million cultural valuables that had
witnessed the Bulgarian and European military
history. It is the only museum in Bulgaria that
shows three expositions with almost27 000
exhibits. The most important battles in the

history of the Bulgarian army with a special

focus on their battles and wars are shown in
thematic-chronologic order. The richest state
collections of weapons, uniforms, and insignia
of honour attract visitors to the collection
exhibition. You can find a great deal of cold
and firearms in one of the exhibitions. Now
is the time to discover what weapons did
Bulgarian heads of state owned in their private
collections.

48
 It is also interesting to see what orders worldwide), the real cuirass, the sword-
decorated our statesmen so far. In fact, the revolver, the gun with triangular bullet, the
National Museum of Military History is the firing halberd, and the cane.
only place you can see these things. Only there
you can browse through the biggest collection If you have been intrigued to see more,
of military and state insignia in Bulgaria - not you can tr y to see the museum‘s website w w w.
only from our country but also from 35 states militar ymuseum.bg first, or call 00359 2 9461805
from Europe, 6 from Asia and 3 from America. to book a guided tour. The museum is easily
accessible - take tram 20 or 22 to „Embassy of
Romania“ or Mall Serdika bus stop. You can also
The museum also shows the development of
reach it with bus lines 9, 72, 120, 305, 413.
Bulgarian military uniform, accessories and gear
in the years of our country‘s existence. It also The address is Sofia, 92, Cherkovna Street.
hosts Bulgarian relics such as Samara banner, The museum is open Wednesday to Sunday from
Levski‘s locks of hair, the weapon and clothing 10 a.m to 6 p.m. Tickets cost 8 leva for adults
of Rakovski, the only preserved uniforms of and 2 leva for students, seniors and disabled.
Bulgarian guerrillas during the Ottoman rule, Children up to 7 years of age enter free of
the triumph weapons, the military banners and charge. And if you happen to be in Sofia at the
the uniforms of the Bulgarian army. end of the month and you would like to visit this
museum, you can even enter for free ever y last
Wednesday of the month. Isn‘t that cool?
Make sure you don‘t miss the Corinthian
helmet (one of the only three preserved

49
The Science Class You Wished You Had
Do you remember the tedious task of balancing use it to compete against others in the robotics
equations in Chemistry class? Can you still calculate workshop. Try to prepare caviar from honey,
the length of a wave like you did in Physics class? which will make even Heston Blumenthal smile, in
Well, Sofia Science week has nothing to do with the molecular gastronomy workshops. Attempt to
that. Or rather it has, but without the boring parts. uncover the biodiversity in the Doctor‘s garden.

Science surrounds us. The ice-cream tastes Do these activities seem childish? Why don‘t
amazing due to the unbelievable mix of droplets, you stop by the lectures on super heroes and
crystals and bubbles. Rock music counts on specific learn if Hollywood has stumbled upon top secret
string vibrations (with a touch of Jimmy Hendrix’s research in top secret labs or if it has inspired
genius). The attraction between people can be a new experiment. Maybe you will like to hear
explained with the „molecule of love“ (a colourless why Tom and Jerry can‘t be friends in real life.
liquid, with assertive smell of bad fish, composed of Elementary, or is it.
molecules of eight carbon atoms and weight of 121
g per mole). These and many other questions about At Sofia Science Week you may see and hear in
“life, the universe and everything” are answered person some of the biggest names in contemporary
during Sofia Science Week. science. It kind of makes a difference when you
hear about the particle of God (a.k.a the Higgs
For the third year in a row, every May, for a boson) from one of the creators of the Large
week, the centre of the capital becomes a giant Hadron Collider. Supposedly, he knows what he is
scientific lab for unique experience of science talking about. Professor Jim Al-Khalili, who apart
around us. You may attempt to build a robot and from being a theoretical physicist and officer of
the Order of British
Empire, is also a TV
star of sorts, tells us
about some of the
greatest paradoxes
in physics - how can
Shroedinger cat can
be both dead and
alive at the same
time, or can a demon
decrease the entropy
of a container full of
gas.

The Festival is
not only the place to
meet the science hot
shots. Many young
scientists shine for
the first time in the

50
Fame Lab competition - after all, there are so many Sofia Science Week is not the only point of
reality shows for singers, actors, designers and even contact between the locals and guests of Sofia
chefs, why shouldn‘t there be a place where the most with the peak of contemporary science. For
promising young scientists can demonstrate their example, during the Ratio festival you could
knowledge in a queer way. They can make you think hear a lecture on vampires. And no, they do
about chemistry while you clean or about the relation no tell you how much gel Edward Cullen uses.
between the evil witch Baba Yaga, the chicken leg and Instead you will learn why we believe in the
the extraterrestrials. Speaking of aliens in all editions blood sucking creatures of the night and what
of the festival there has always been someone to talk the science is behind some more popular ways
about “the truth out there”. to kill a vampire. In another lecture, you could
hear about psychics and fortune tellers and how
Still sounds too scientific? Skip that part and go they manipulate human consciousness. What is
to the fashion tent to learn about design of clothes strange is that these lectures are just as exciting
from „smart fabrics“. Or sneak into the love and as the presentation of the geometry treasures.
sex workshop. Well, do not hope for Kama Sutra
practice, but the science of pheromones can still So, without pretences of being the European
give you a few pointers. If you are an artist you capital of science, Sofia offers a surprising set
can learn how science finds its place in paintings. of events which turn several days of the year in
Or discover if we can calculate happiness with a triumph of thought and science. Who knows?
mathematical formula. Maybe some of the next editions of these festivals
will feature Stephen Hawking or Michio Kaku.
Just in case you‘d bet ter check their
webpage of ten at w w w.sofiasciencefestival.bg

51
National Polytechnic Museum
A shortcut between the abacus and uncomfortable to drive. Well, there is a logical explanation
space exploration. - after World War Two Germany was prohibited to
Tucked just outside the perfect centre of Sofia build planes. One of the aircraft producing companies,
lies a real treasure for science fans and lovers of weird Messerschmitt, had too many left over parts, which could
inventions. not be used for planes, so the management decided it will
apply those parts to cars. By the way, in the very centre of
Have you ever wandered what astronauts eat? the first hall, there stands a unique old Ford model A. It is
Bulgaria is the world’s third largest producer of foods said that the reconstructed car is fully operational, but
to go into space. And the only place where you can it is unlikely you will be allowed a test drive.
see spaghetti with ham, yoghurt with muesli and local Right beside the Ford is the enormous clock
speciality lyutenitsa, packed for use beyond earth‘s orbit, is collection, including the clock with unmovable arms. How
the National Polytechnic Museum.
The museum also displays the only
contraption successfully used for
growing wheat in space. Yes, the
first space green house is “Made in
Bulgaria”. And not only made but
actually sent to serve its purpose
on MIR orbital station.

Wait, it seems that we

started from the end. Here is the beginning of the story.
The National Polytechnic Museum is the only museum
in Bulgaria dedicated to the technical knowledge from
various areas - from household items, through mining, the do you know the time then? Elementary, it is the dial that
progress in photography and reproduction of sounds, to rotates. Speaking of collections we cannot skip the
cars, computers and space exploration. unique set of lamps... for mining. Try to find the lamp
designed especially for working in mines with risk of
The exhibits display only a small part of the incredible firedamp gas build-up.
collection of the museum, but while you browse you will
stumble upon some truly amazing things. For example, a The next hall takes us to the times before the digital
washing machine from the beginning of the 20th century era. You may even see the irony of taking pictures with
(and the brand still operates today) that looks like a your phone camera of the first photographic equipment
modern day hand mixer. with dimensions amounting to a small cupboard and the
Only you stir the clothes incredible capacity to take up to 100 pictures. Well, not
until every single stain is all cameras are that big. Look in the corner where the
gone. spy gear hides - the cameras that use micro film and are
easy to fit into a pocket or a telescope. And while today
Speaking of strange, we enjoy our flat screen TVs, we might be startled by the
there is a car that sight of first television sets. We would not even think that
looks more like a plane the invention of a single television-radio set was close to
and seems terribly a revolution.

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 Western movie and stopping at the Elka. The Bulgarian
calculators Elka were famous worldwide for being small
(by the standards then) and at the same time able to
add, subtract, multiply and divide 16-digit numbers,
exponentiate and extract roots and perform another 22
operations like that.

The museum is the home of the first Bulgarian personal

computer. The Individual Micro Computer (IMCO-2)
is modelled after Apple. Before you start comparing
it to the i-gadgets, let me
tell you it looks more
like a TV (the monitor is
in fact a modification of
Do you think your grandmothers spent the parties a commercially available
in virtuous talks over a cup of tea while cross stitching TV set) placed over an
elaborate gobelins. Think again while you look at the electronic typewriter.
phonographs. You can just imagine how noisy these things IMCO-2 boasts 1 MHz
get. What if your virtuous grandmother is approached processor and 48 KB of
by a young male with a stereoscope - strange glasses RAM! It even has a port for
or rather a mask which renders spatial perspective to cassette tape!!!
pictures. Your grandma‘s
heart would have jumped
with intrigue.

By the way, while

perusing the gramophone
section, pay attention to a record featuring a dog listening
to a phonograph. This is the logo of one of the most
famous record labels at the time - „His Master‘s Voice“.
This gave the birth of a famous saying in Bulgaria: the „dog
brand“ went from meaning that something was of high
quality to become a common name of something with
unclear origin.
The National Polytechnic Museum is on 66,
You cannot have a technical museum without Opalchenska Street and is open Monday to Friday
computers, even if we did not mention the fact that the from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Adult tickets cost 5 leva and
father of contemporary computer John Atanasov is of kids can go in for 1 or 2 leva. If you find it expensive,
Bulgarian descent. But let us start with the calculating the entrance is free every last Monday of the month.
contraptions - from quipu and abacus (the ancient However, if you are not prepared to pay 10 leva, leave
calculating tools) through accounting machines modestly your camera at home. More information about the
museum can be found at www.polytechnicmuseum.org
called „Millionaire“ and cash registers typical for every

53
Sofia breathes
August is traditionally one of the more constantly startled by honking cars or breathing
unpleasant months to stay in Sofia. Everyone is car vapours. The festival was born to provide
at the seaside and is posting pictures of paradise little entertainment for the people who were
beaches and chilled cocktails, while you sweat stuck in Sofia in the holiday month. After a
in the dusty capital and sigh silently with longing very successful start, the project grew to offer
and melancholy. Exactly at this oppressive cultural events in other times of the year: Folk
atmosphere, for four years already, the locals Colour Sofia in April, Recyclator Sofia Breathes
and the visitors can at least for a while enjoy the in June, Summer Sofia Breathes in August, Quart
multi-genre festival „Sofia Breathes“. Fest Sofia Breathes in September, Winter Sofia
Breathes in December.

With only four years of history, Sofia

Breathes has become in one of the most
prestigious and popular cultural events on
Sofia’s agenda. The festival‘s ambition is to
provide opportunities to hundreds of authors,
organizations and initiatives to present their
art and establish themselves on the cultural and
social scene in Bulgaria. The festival offers an
unique, creative and intriguing way for each and
every visitor to get acquainted with the rich

Standing for environmental culture is one of

the main goals of the festival. Four years ago
the festival was launched with the sole idea to
close Ivan Shishman street for cars and free the
space at least for a day for the people and in
this way to promote healthy lifestyle, active life,
a walk outdoors to enjoy the sun without being

Sofia breathes... The closed and empty

Shishman street, a favourite to all locals
for its old houses and small shops, a
piano on the street and improvised small
tables with gifts for sale. I walked both
ways and really breathed.

54
cultural life in Sofia, which is waiting to be rediscovered. Every year, the fest puts us in positive
mood with its exciting and attractive program, different initiatives, diverse music and theatre, fine
arts and crafts, cinema, architecture, design and educational projects. And the most important part
is that you are both a spectator and a participant in all of this. Events like this undoubtedly add value
to what our city has to offer.

Imagine a Sunday when you can stroll along your favourite street in Sofia without worrying
about cars and at the same time browsing stalls full of handmade gifts, books and toys. You stop and

55
learn something or leave your kid to draw or full use of the enormous cultural, social and
just enjoy the acrobatic tricks of a guy in a funny economic potential of Sofia. The festival gives
costume. Crowds of people, kids, balloons,
cookies, clowns fill the pedestrian street. The
air is full of swing and rock rhythms, so many
dancers swirl around and make you dizzy,
guitars strum everywhere.

As a part of the Cultural Calendar of Sofia

since 2011 and the initiatives supporting the
city‘s candidacy for European Capital of Culture,
the cultural festival „Sofia Breathes“ to make

an opportunity to our capital, but also Bulgaria,

to showcase all the young and extremely gifted
artists and to assert itself on the European
cultural map as a serious cultural centre and
in this way establish a more positive image in
Europe and the world.

I depart with a smile and full of

positive emotions. I am thinking of
staying in Sofia on purpose next
August and enjoy the next edition of
„breathing“.

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 Street Art
Can you define “street art”? Art loses its
meaning the minute someone tries to define it
with several sentences. Art is a message, an idea,
a moment. Plain, simple, beautiful. An image can
invoke different emotions – joy, sadness, madness,
irritation or just indifference. Art never leaves
you indifferent.

How can we spice up life in a city? And not

a mere city but a European capital? Easily – with
colour, magic, idea and some ambitious and capable was donating to the church every lev tossed in
young people who can let their imagination free. his cup. Through spontaneous provocation the
street artist shows in a striking and unique way his
One of these reverence to the old man
youths did a mural of many virtues: simplicity,
depicting Old Dobri modesty, nobleness
on the 25-m tall and determination. The
wall of Block No 57 masterpiece is part of
in Hadzhi Dimitar the Souls in Walls project
district. The artist which also involved
is known as Nasimo. artists like Etam Cru
The graffiti painter and Bozko. Their works
represents the Saint from Baylovo (as people are exhibited on blocks 54 and 57A in the same
call Dobri). The neighbourhood.
old man is in
fact a beggar at Other people
Alexander Nevsky “guilty” of
Cathedral, who changing Sofia’s
also is the temple’s appearance are the
biggest donor. For people from the
years, the old man “ Tr a n s f o r m e r s ”

57
crew. Their works can be seen in the “nontypical” been transformed in playground’s furniture. The
district with the “nontypical” name Fakulteta (the area itself becomes a protected children’s corner
Faculty – a district with predominantly Roma for art, play and entertainment. To put it in other
denizens). There these artists take part in the words it is an example how a touch of street art
renovation of a children’s can make our surroundings a
centre and its environment. better, more welcoming and
The Transformers paint more beautiful place.
small comic strips and
pictures on wooden discs On the 16th of September
and decorative stones 2013 the first bells rang to
and then paint the newly announce the start of the
build fences, benches and school year. Three months
playgrounds. Wooden earlier however, on the
planks and crates, car tyres and other junk have 16th and the 17th of June 68th School “Acad.

58
Nikola Obreshkov” hosted the events from the the paintings on Rakovski, Ivan Vazov and Ivan
global Let’s Colour Project for the first time Shishman Street. There are some on the back of
in Bulgaria. Yet again we witnessed the same the Sofia Region Administration. Bears appear
provocation – colour, change, skill and good on the façade of “F. J. Curie” school in Poduyane
mood. And a small celebration for people of the district.
Druzhba 2 district.
We respect these young people and their
We paid attention to only a few of the talent. They show us each day how a seemingly
impressive graffiti in the farther parts of Sofia. grey existence can be replaced with the colour
If these are your type of art, do not miss a and charge of the artist. Come and see for
tour around the centre of the city and admire yourselves!

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