How to Grow Aster "Crego"

 Home Guides

 Garden

 Gardening

ByJenny Harrington

RELATED ARTICLES
 How to Germinate Seeds From English Daisies
 Outdoor Dark-Leaf Begonia Care
 How to Grow an Osteospermum Blue Eye
 How to Grow Miniature Zinnias
 How to Grow Joi Choi
Aster “Crego” (Callistephus chinensis “Crego Mix”), sometimes called China asters,
comes in purple, red, white and pink. The “Crego” cultivar features delicately curled
petals and a full flower that blooms in summer and fall. These summer annuals grow
well in most climates, but they can't tolerate frost or drought. Sowing seeds indoors six
weeks before the last spring frost and watering them properly in the garden encourage
long-lasting blooms and healthy plants.

Set 3-inch diameter seedling pots inside a drip tray. Fill each pot with potting soil to
within 1/2 inch of the rim. Add 1 inch of water to the drip tray, and allow the soil in the
pots to absorb the water until the soil surface becomes moist, then empty any
remaining water from the tray.

Sow two aster “Crego” seeds in each pot, planting them on the soil surface. Cover the
seeds with a 1/4-inch layer of moist soil.

Cover the pots with a layer of clear plastic wrap, which retains moisture until the seeds
sprout. Set the tray of pots in a 70- to 75-degree Fahrenheit location that receives
indirect sunlight. Asters will germinate in the dark, but they sprout more quickly with
some light.

Remove the plastic wrap when sprouts emerge. Move the pots to a location that
receives at least six hours of direct sunlight, and water the seedlings when the soil
surface dries. Thin the seedlings so that only one aster remains in each pot once the
plants produce their second set of leaves.

Incorporate a 2-inch compost layer into the top 8 inches of soil in a well-draining
outdoor bed that receives six hours of direct sunlight daily. Transplant the asters into
the bed at the same depth they were in their pots, spacing them 8 to 10 inches apart in
all directions.

Water aster “Crego” plants deeply once or twice a week, providing approximately 1
inch of moisture each time so that the top 6 inches of soil don't dry out. Spread a 2-
inch layer of mulch over the bed to help conserve the soil moisture.
 7

Trim off spent blossoms, and pull up and destroy any plants that appear unhealthy to
prevent the spread of diseases. Spray the asters with an insecticidal soap if
leafhoppers, mites or aphids become a problem. Leafhoppers can spread the aster
yellows virus, so they require prompt control.

Spray a fungicide, such as one containing mancozeb, to treat any fungal growth on
aster "Crego." Avoid overhead irrigation and wet foliage, which can cause stem rot and
wilt. Treating seedlings with an iprodione spray further helps prevent stem rot. Follow
all package precautions and application instructions when using disease treatments.

Things Needed

 Drip tray
 3-inch-diameter pots
 Potting soil
 Plastic wrap
 Compost
 Mulch
 Insecticidal soap
 Fungicide
 Iprodione spray

Tips

 Aster yellows, wilt and stem rot can affect aster “Crego.” Treat insect pests
promptly, and plant asters in a different bed each year to avoid these diseases.

HOW TO GROW LIVINGSTONE DAISY SEEDS

How to grow?
Livingstone Daisies require full bright sunlight for flowering. The plant needs at least 8
hours of direct sunlight every day during its growing period. The early sunshine is best.
They grow well in sandy soil and well-drained soil with low fertility. Throughout the
growing season, the plant needs watering in moderation and once established needs less
frequent watering. Can tolerate salt spray and can be used in seaside gardens. Hot, humid
weather can cause sunburn of the flowers. Having said that, these plants can tolerate
 drought once the plant gets established. They can be grown on banks and works well
grown on slopes as a groundcover or as flower beds in the garden. While they do well in
containers on patios and decks they are small enough and could quite easily be planted up
in a wheelbarrow fairy garden. They also form a good addition to rock gardens. For
achieving full ground coverage space, the Livingstone Daisy plant should be placed only
6 inches apart. When planting in pots, fill the pot with potting soil half-way and place the
plant with roots into the pot. To keep the plant stable add more soil to the pot and pack it
down firmly. These planters will be the highlight of your garden.

Propagation
Propagation of Livingstone Daisy can be easily done by seeds.

 You can start the Livingstone daisy plant mix by sowing the collected
seeds indoors about 10 weeks prior to the last frost date in your area.
 Cover the seeds with fine soil for about 1/8 inch.
 Water the soil well to keep the soil moist.
 Seed germination will occur within 7-14 days if the ideal temperature of 16
C or 60 degrees Fahrenheit is obtained.
 They germinate easily when kept in the dark. So, covering the seed
container with dark plastic sheets is a better option.
Remove the cover once the seedlings start to appear. Transplant the seedlings to the
garden or to the desired pot once the seedlings develop true leaves. The seeds can be
directly sown in the garden if you are in frost free areas. When sown directly to the
location the seedlings need thinning to provide proper spacing.

Caring for the plant

During the growing period, the plant needs moderate watering and once the plant start
flowering reduces the frequency of watering. At the beginning of the bloom period feed
the plant with an all in one diluted liquid flower care fertiliser. Drizzle the plant
food around the plants root, this helps to promote strong roots and brighter beautiful
blooms. Shearing the spent flowers will promote additional blooming. The plant can be
cut back once the flowering season is over. The plant is usually free from diseases, but
can be attacked by pests such as aphids, snails, and slugs. When the plant reaches the end
of the life cycle the plant will produce pods filled with seeds. You can allow them to
scatter by their own or you can collect the seeds to plant in the next growing season.

HOW TO GROW CHRYSANTHEMUM SNOWLAND

How to Sow
Chrysanthemum may be grown from seed sown early indoors and transplanted outside
after frost, or sown directly in the garden in summer, or grown from potted plants.

Sowing Seed Indoors:

 Sow chrysanthemum seeds indoors 2 months  before last spring frost date using a seed
starting kit.
 Cover the seeds lightly with 1/8 inch of seed starting mix.
 Keep the soil moist at 70-75 degrees F.
 Seedlings emerge in 10-21 days.
 As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow
seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8
hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for
this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not
leave lights on for 24 hours.
 Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter
solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s
directions.
 If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch
pots when seedlings have at least 2 pairs of true leaves before transplanting to the garden
so they have enough room to develop strong roots.
 Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom
young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week.
Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or
bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off
process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.
Sowing Directly in the Garden:
 Direct sow after all danger of frost.
 Remove weeds and work organic matter into the top 6-8 inches of soil; then level and
smooth. 
 Sow seeds evenly and cover with 1/8 inches of fine soil. 
 Firm the soil lightly and keep it evenly moist. 
 Seedlings will emerge in 10-21 days.
Planting in the Garden:
 Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil.
 Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 6-12, inches removing any debris,
and lightly raking as level as possible.
 The addition of organic matter (leaf mold, compost, well-rotted manure) benefits all
gardens and is essential in recently constructed neighborhoods.
 Plant on a cloudy day or in late afternoon to reduce transplant shock.
 Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
 Unpot the plant and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root
growth.
 Place the top of the root ball even with the level of the surrounding soil. Fill with soil to
the top of the root ball. Press soil down firmly with your hand.
 Use the plant tag as a location marker.
 Thoroughly water and apply a light mulch layer on top of the soil (1-2 inches) to
conserve water and reduce weeds.

How to Grow
 Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for
water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to
prevent their germination. 
 Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. For
perennials, an organic mulch of aged bark or shredded leaves lends a natural look to the bed
and will improve the soil as it breaks down in time.  Always keep mulches off a plant’s stems
to prevent possible rot.
 Careful watering is essential in getting perennials off to a good start. Water thoroughly at
least once a week to help new roots grow down deeply. Soil should be damp at about 1 inch
below the soil surface. You can check this by sticking your finger in the soil. Water early in
the morning to give all leaves enough time to dry.  One inch of rain or watering per week is
recommended for most perennial plants. You can check to see if you need to add water by
using a rain gauge.
 Until plants become established, some protection from extreme winds and direct, hot
sunlight may be necessary.  Good air movement is also important.
 After new growth appears, a light fertilizer may be applied. Keep granular fertilizers away
from the plant crown and foliage to avoid burn injury. Use low rates of a slow release
fertilizer, as higher rates may encourage root rots.
 Chrysanthemums may benefit from being pinched up until the Fourth of July. This should
make plants bushier and will not prevent blooming as chrysanthemums bloom when the days
begin to grow shorter, in fall.
 “Deadhead”, remove spent flower heads to encourage continuous flowering and prevent
seed development.
 Remove and discard foliage after a hard frost in fall. 
 In colder regions, apply another layer of mulch (1-2 inches) after the ground freezes in
fall. Evergreen boughs (from Christmas trees) provide additional protection. Remove this
mulch in the spring.
 Divide perennials when plants become overcrowded, bloom size begins to diminish or
plants lose their vigor. Divide chrysanthemums in spring, just as they begin to grow. Dig
clumps from the ground and with a sharp knife or spade, cut into good sized divisions, each
with several growing eyes and plenty of roots. Remove any dead or unhealthy plant parts
and cut back stems. Replant one division where the plant was originally and plant the extra
divisions elsewhere in your garden or give them away to gardening friends. Plant the
divisions immediately, or as soon as possible, and water well.
 Chrysanthemums may also be propagated from cuttings taken in spring.

Growing tips
 Many gardeners do not cut back perennial flower seed heads in the fall, but wait until
early spring before the new foliage appears. This provides food for wildlife over the winter.
 Chrysanthemums make great long lasting, fragrant cut flowers.