WEBER CARBURETOR

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

This guide is to help pinpoint problems by diagnosing engine symptoms

associated with specific vehicle operating conditions.
The chart will guide you step by step to help correct these problems.

For successful troubleshooting, please do the following:

1. Complete all steps suggested in the box, and any that follow in
the guide.

2. Complete all of the suggestions in order, doing so will eliminate

any secondary problems.

3. Follow diagnosis directions completely (Cleaning, adjustment etc.)

4. Do not do any other procedures other than the ones suggested.

This Weber carburetor has been manufactured using very high quality control
standards. Through years of experience we have found that most carburetor
problems are caused by other engine components.

Operating Conditions
Engine Symptoms

Stalls/ Rough/ Slow/ Flood Races Does not

Hesitates Poor Low Smokes Start or
Dies Running Running Idle
Cold 5C 5D 5C 1A
Starting
Hot 4A 4A 5I 1A 3B 2G 5D 5A 2A
Engine Cold 5C 1A 5D 4A 5C 5D 5C 5C 5D
Temperature Idling
Hot 6G 4A 4A 5B 2G 5D 5A 5B 5G 5F
Cold 3B 4A 5D
Running
Hot 2A 2H 4A 6E 3A 5E 5J
Cold 2F 5H 6A 6D
Acceleration
Hot 2F 5H 1A 2A 6E 5E 5J 6F

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TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
FOR YOUR SAFETY

Remember ! A Clean engine will make all work easier, accurate, and safer.

ALWAYS: NEVER:

Use new hose clamps on fuel hoses. Allow any dirt in the carburetor.

Replace any cracked or missing hoses. Run the engine without proper
(fuel, vacuum or coolant) filtration (Air and Fuel Filters).

Label any hose or wire before removing. Allow fuel to leak or spill

Use an insulated connector for any wire. Damage any gasket surfaces

Over tighten Jets or levers.

1. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

To make sure that the ignition system is working correctly do steps 1 A - 1C

with the ignition on.

IMPORTANT NOTE Make sure that the battery is fully charged with no
corrosion present on the terminals.

A. Test the fuse for the ignition/charging circuit:

If you do not have 12 volts at either side if the fuse, replace fuse.

B. Check static ignition timing:

Make sure that you do not have excessive free play at the
distributor shaft.

C. See if the distributor is 180 degrees out of time:

Do a comparison to the cam timing or by reversing opposite pairs of
ignition wires at the distributor cap.
2. FUEL DELIVERY

To make sure that the quality and supply of fuel to the carburetor is correct,
please so steps 2A - 2I . In our experience we have seen that fuel contaminated
with water, dirt or rust is the major cause of carburetor problems. Use fuel as
fresh as possible.
IMPORTANT NOTE On vehicles equipped with electric fuel pumps. Most are not
powered with out the engine running or starter engaged.

A. Test the fuel flow at the carburetor by disconnecting the fuel supply hose
and directing the fuel flow into a small dry, clean can when the fuel pump is
activated.
IMPORTANT NOTE DO NOT ALLOW ANY CHANCE OF A SPARK DISCONNECT
THE PRIMARY WIRE(S) )usually a small 16 Gauge wire)
THAT CONNECTS THE GROUND (-) SIDE TERMINAL OF THE
COIL TO THE DISTRIBUTOR ( OR SPARK BOX, IF SOLID
STATE IGNITION).
If fuel flow is adequate go to step 2 E
If fuel flow is not adequate go to step 2B
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TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

B. Test the fuel flow at the fuel filter and then at the Fuel Pump:
If fuel flow is not adequate go to step 2C.

C. Check to see if the fuel tank is empty or if the lines are blocked. They maybe
blocked by dirt, ice, or other contaminants.
If you have fuel in the tank and the lines are not blocked go to 2D.

D. If the vehicle is equipped with an electric fuel pump, test the pump by applying
12 volts and a ground to the pump. If you have a mechanical pump, crank the
engine over.
If you do not have any fuel flow. Replace the pump.

E. Check to see if the fuel is old or bad. ( If vehicle has been out of service for an
extended period chances are that the fuel is bad.)
If the fuel does not smell right:
Try some fresh fuel a few drops at a time in the Carburetor inlet.
IMPORTANT NOTE AVOID FUEL CONTACT WITH SKIN

F. Check to see if the fuel is contaminated with rust or water:

To check remove and empty out fuel filter (from the inlet side) into a clean,
dry can , or if your vehicle has a drain plug on the fuel tank, empty some fuel
from the tank into a clean, dry can. Remember Water and Fuel do not mix.

G. Test the fuel pressure output with a fuel pressure gauge. If the fuel pressure
exceeds 3.5 psi, install a fuel pressure regulator.

H. See if the Fuel Return and the Fuel supply line are reversed. On some Weber
carburetors that have a fuel return, remove the fitting one at a time from the
carb. The Fuel return is restricted and the fuel inlet is totally open.

I. Make sure that none of the fuel lines are crimped or kinked.

3. ENGINE

To make sure that engine is mechanically sound. Please do steps 3a - 3C

A. Do a compression check on all of the cylinders. Compression should be over

125 psi per cylinder, and with in 10% of each other.

B. See if the intake manifold bolts or loose or missing.

C. If you have a heated intake. Make sure that the heat source is connected.
On most vehicles it is heated by water. Check with your Shop manual for
the heat source on your intake.

4. VACUUM SYSTEM

To make sure that you do not have any vacuum leaks, check all vacuum
operated devices, and connections to the intake manifold. Use the suggested
tests to check.

IMPORTANT NOTE THE VACUUM DEVICES ARE CONTROLS AND VALVES THAT REQUIRE
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TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
SEALED VACUUM CONNECTIONS TO PROPERLY OPERATE.

A. Testing the vacuum system with a handheld vacuum pump is very helpful
in finding leaking hoses and devices in the system away from the carburetor.
(Vacuum testers have an attached vacuum gauge to measure vacuum)
Start at the carburetor and work your way toward the engine, remove vacuum
hoses one at a time. Be careful not to mix up any hoses.
Plug the source of the vacuum and connect the vacuum pump to the source
and test for any malfunctions in the system.

TO TEST OTHER VACUUM CONTROLLED DEVICES:

Distributor Advance look for a change in the engine timing.

Distributor Retard Test with a timing light.
EGR Valve Stalling will be normal when tested.
Deceleration Valve engine will idle faster when tested.
Canister Purge If the engine speed fluctuates with the hose disconnected,
canister is fuel of fuel due to a problem in the tank vent or
the fuel tank is overfilled.
Go to 4 B

B. Using the method of pinching off hoses is helpful when you have hoses that
are leaking, such as air cleaner hoses and other devices.
Install the air inlet duct or air cleaner.
Start the engine and let it run at idle.
One by one pinch off vacuum hoses with pliers and listen for a
change in engine RPM.
Recheck any suspected problems with the Vacuum pump.

TO TEST :
Hoses Choke stove air door ( thermostatic air cleaner)
Power Brake Booster Heater Controls, in all positions
Cruise Control Air Conditioning fast idle , ignition on A/C on
Headlight Doors Vacuum Reservoirs and amplifiers
PCV Valve (idle should drop 50 RPM)
Go To 4 C

C. Using Carburetor Cleaner to check for leaks. This will help you find defective
gaskets and hidden leaks.
IMPORTANT NOTE AVOID SPRAYING YOUR SELF READ ALL CAUTION LABELS
AND WASH AFTER USING
Remove air inlet duct or air cleaner and plug any vacuum sources removed.
With the engine idling, spray carburetor cleaner into the air inlet of the
carburetor to determine the effect of running.
Wait until the engine returns to the previous idle.
Spray carburetor cleaner on the outside of the carburetor and intake manifold.
If you have a vacuum leak the idle speed should have changed.
TO TEST :
Some vacuum leakage at the throttle shaft is normal.
Intake manifold.
All gaskets and seals.
Fittings and plugs.

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5 CARBURETOR
Do the following steps only after you have completed 1A, 2A, 3A and 4A.
This will help you save time and avoid creating any secondary problems.
In our experiences most problems initially thought to be carburetor problems
are those caused by other engine components.

A. Testing the choke and the throttle linkage:

Check that you have free movement at the carburetor with an assistant operating
the gas pedal. In our experiences over tightened throttle shafts contribute to
many carburetor problems.

B. Testing the Idle Speed Adjustment:

With the engine at normal operating temperature, adjust to manufacturers
specs: turn adjustment screw in (clockwise) to raise the speed and out (counter-
clockwise) to lower).

C. Testing the Fast Idle Adjustment:

It may be necessary to perform this test first thing in the morning or after the
vehicle has been allowed to cool down.
With the engine cold, press the gas pedal to the floor once and release.
Start Vehicle. Engine speed should be 2000 RPM - 2500 RPM after about
10 seconds. Turn engine off. To adjust turn fast idle screw in to increase
fast idle speed and out to decrease. Do not disturb the carburetor linkage
during this adjustment. Without touching the gas pedal start engine again
check engine RPM. If you have to readjust use the procedure above .

D. Testing the Automatic Choke adjustment.

The choke is preset at the factory but in some cases it may be necessary
to readjust.
The choke assembly must be cool ( below 68 F 20C) before attempting to
make any adjustments. First fully rotate the throttle lever and release;
Check for smooth operation; the choke plate should be all the way closed.
Make a reference mark on the carburetor and the choke where the two faces
meet. Loosen the three 7mm hex head screws one full turn. While holding
the throttle about one third open, adjust the closing tension on the choke
plates just fully close; then slightly increase the tension on the spring by
continuing to rotate the thermostat 1/8" measured in the outer diameter of the
thermostat. Tighten the three 7mm hex head screws without distorting the
retainer ring; fast idle speed my need to be readjusted. If the choke plates
do not fully open after running the engine for three minutes go to step 5E

E. Testing the choke thermostat assembly

The electric choke terminal must have a key hot 12 volt source.
The carburetor is grounded to the engine by a metal to metal connection.
If the vehicle was originally equipped with an electric choke and or an idle
solenoid use that wire. If you do not have a wire present , splice into the wire
leading from the ignition switch to the coil or ballast resistor.
Water chokes must have a free flow of engine coolant.

F. Testing the idle cut-off solenoid (if equipped)

With the solenoid on the carburetor and ignition on and engine off,
disconnect the wire from the solenoid and listen for a click; then with the
engine idling, disconnect the wire leading to the solenoid. The engine should
stop. If the engine does not stop the solenoid is likely defective.

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G. Testing the idle mixture adjustment:
Adjust with the engine at idle speed; turn the mixture adjustment screw in
(clockwise) by quarter turns until the engine speed drops; turn out
(counter clockwise) while counting quarter turns until the idle rises and
again drops noticeably; turn in again to middle setting.
If RPM does not change go to 5H

H. Cleaning the idle circuit

Locate and remove the primary idle jet holder (this is also the idle solenoid
if so equipped). Remove the jet from the holder, hold up to a light and check for
roundness of the cavity. Remove the idle mixture screw from the the carburetor,
blow clean compressed air through the two open passages. Replace the jet
in the holder and install back in the carburetor along with the idle mixture screw.

I. Make sure that all of the vacuum lines are installed to the correct signal source.
Install a vacuum pump with a gauge. Start engine and operate throttle.
If vacuum is present at idle it is a manifold vacuum source. If vacuum is present
at partial throttle it is a ported vacuum source. If vacuum is present at a high
rpm it is a venturi vacuum source.
Refer to your shop manual or any labels under the hood that show vacuum
hose routing.

J. Set the Float Level

Float level problems are very rare with New Weber Carburetors. Refer to a
Weber Shop manual or contact your Weber Dealer for specifications or
instructions. Also check for dirt or other foreign matter in the needle and seat.

6. PERSISTENT PROBLEMS
The following problems are not listed in the guide because they are unique,
difficult to diagnose and are beyond the scope of the guide. We have listed
them because of past experiences.

A. Replace spark plugs; use only new spark plugs with the correct heat range.
B. Make sure that the ground strap is properly connected. It is necessary that
the engine is grounded to the chassis and battery.
C. Double check or have any work coincidental to the problem such as
body work or engine repairs, a tune up , installation of an alarm, stereo or
emissions inspection.
D. Check for any damage to the exhaust system or an internally collapsed muffler.
E. Check your sparkplugs. Most Shop manuals have a chart in color showing
what the spark plugs should look like. Rejetting of the carb may be necessary.
F. See if the Transmission is slipping. This applies to both automatic and standard.
G. Make sure that the fuel tank vent hose is not plugged at the canister.
H. Some Vehicles , including Nissans, have two wires that go to the electric choke.
One is a ground wire and does not have to be connected.
I. Some original Electric Fuel pumps pressure exceeds 3.5 psi. Check with a
pressure gauge or look in shop manual. A pressure regulator may be necessary.
J. On some water cooled VW's , vibrations caused by worn motor mounts may
cause the carburetor top to fracture.
K. When the throttle return spring is located on the same side as the throttle
lever, check to make sure that the first spring coil does not get trapped between
the lever and the carburetor. This will cause binding.

L. On progressive carbs incorrect installation of the throttle lever can cause

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both throttle plates to open at the same time. This is wrong. The progressive is
designed that the primary barrel opens up before the secondary.
M. On Multiple carburetor applications it is required that all of the carburetors
be synchronized.
N. If you experience intermittent problems. Any diagnosis should be carried
out when the problem occurs. Be prepared carry any necessary tools.
O. Go over the troubleshooting guide and see if any steps were missed or
not understood.

If you have any installation or operational problems with your carb. Call or email
our Technical assistance Department.

Telephone 1 800 871 3405

Email WeberTech@intercoproducts.com

We have found that the following publications can be very helpful in the operation,
repair and tuning of Weber Carburetors.

Title Part Number

Weber Tuning Manual 95.0000.54
Haynes Weber Book HM 393
HP Weber Book HP 774

HP774 HM393 95.0000.54

TOOLS THAT SHOULD BE USED FOR MULTIPLE CARB SETUPS:

STE Synchrometers

SK Standard-
reads 1-30 KG/H

BK High Volume-
reads 2-40 KG/H

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 WEBER CARBURETOR
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
32/36 DFEV CARBURETOR

Electric Choke
Fuel Inlet
Choke Pull off
Accelerator
Pump

Vacuum Advance Idle Mixture Screw

Port

Choke Pull off

Fast Idle Screw

Idle Speed Screw Throttle Lever

32/36 DGEV CARBURETOR

Fast Idle Screw

Fuel Inlet

Fuel Filter Inspection Plug

Primary Idle Screw

Choke Pull Off
Electric Choke

Throttle Lever Accelerator pump

Vacuum Advance Port

Idle Mixture Screw
Additional Ported Vacuum Source

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