Wendyknits-Cabletini Toe-Up Socks

Cabletini Toe-up Socks
Wendy D. Johnson
Gauge: 8 stitches and 12 rows per inch

Needle Size: 2 US size 0 (2mm) circular needles (see note below) 16” or longer, or size you need to attain
gauge
Yarn: Fingering weight sock yarn (approximately 350 – 400 yards)
Sizes: Medium: 8” around
Abbreviations:
K – knit
P – purl
K2tog – knit 2 together
Kfb – knit in the front and back of the next stitch
M1 – make one
P – purl
Pfb – purl in the front and back of the next stitch
Sl – slip
Ssk – Slip one stitch, then slip the next. Insert left needle into the front loops of the slipped stitches and knit
them together from this position (through the back loops)
W&T – Wrap and turn. Bring yarn to front of work between needles, slip next stitch to right-hand needle,
bring yarn around this stitch to back of work, slip stitch back to left-hand needle, turn your work to begin
working back in the other direction.
YO – yarnover
Chart
Chart Key
Knit
Purl
Slip stitch as if to purl
Slip first 2 stitches to cable needle, hold at back of work, k next stitch, then k 2 stitches from cable
needle
Notes:
The pattern is written for using 2 circular needles. You can easily work it on dpns by dividing the stitches over
4 needles instead of 2.
When you work the “make 1” increases for the gusset, you can do a lifted increase, or knit in the front and
back of a stitch, whichever you prefer. I prefer the “knit in the front and back of a stitch” method – I find it
makes a neater increase with no hole.
Toe:
Using the Turkish Cast-on method, (or another toe-up cast-on method like the Figure-8 Cast-on), cast on a
total of 34 stitches – 17 on each needle. Knit across the stitches on each needle once. On the next round
increase 4 stitches thusly:
Needle 1: K 1, M1, knit until the last stitch, M1, K1

Needle 2: K 1, M1, knit until the last stitch, M1, K1
Then knit a round without increasing.
Repeat these 2 rounds until you have a total of 66 stitches: 33 on each needle.
Start the chart pattern. (You will work the chart over Needle 1 only (the instep stitches) and knit across
Needle 2.)
Row 1: on Needle 1, P 3, work the 6 stitches of row 1 of the chart 5 times; on Needle 2, knit across all 33
stitches.
Row 2: on Needle 1, P 3, work the 6 stitches of row 2 of the chart 5 times; on Needle 2, knit across all 33
stitches.
Continue in this manner, working as many repeats of the 4-row chart as necessary until approximately 3” shy
of the total length of the sock.
Create the Gusset:
Round 1: Work across Needle 1 in the chart pattern. Needle 2: (sole stitches): K1, M1, knit across to the last
stitch, M1, K1.
Round 2: Work across Needle 1 in the chart pattern. Needle 2: (sole stitches): Knit all stitches.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until you have 55 stitches total on Needle 2.
Turn the Heel:
You will work back and forth on the stitches on Needle 2 and will not knit the stitches on Needle 1 while
turning the heel. Turn heel as follows:
Row 1: (RS) 37, kfb, k1, w&t

Row 2: P 22, pfb, p1, w&t
Row 3: K 20, kfb, k1, w&t
Needle 2 now holds 63 stitches. Nest row: On RS, knit to end of needle, knitting each wrap together with the
stitch it wraps. Work across instep stitches on Needle 1 in the pattern stitch.
Heel flap: Work back and forth on heel stitches:

Row 1 (RS): K 47 (knitting each wrap together with the stitch it wraps), ssk, turn
Row 2: Slip 1, p 31, p2tog, turn
Row 3: [slip 1, k1] 16 times, ssk, turn
Repeat Rows 2-3 until all side stitches have been worked, end having worked row 2. Needle 2 now holds 33
stitches.
Begin working in the round again. If you are in the middle of a pattern repeat in the chart, work the stitches
on Needle 2 plain as for the foot of the sock until you have completed row 4 of the chart. On the next row,
work as follows:
On Needle 1, P 3, work the 6 stitches of row 1 of the chart 5 times; on Needle 2, work the 6 stitches of the
chart 5 times, then work the first 3 stitches of the chart again.
Note: You might find it helpful at this point to move 1 purl stitch from each end of Needle 1 onto each end of
Needle 2 so that you do not have to execute a cable twist at the very beginning and end of Needle 2. You will
then have 31 stitches on Needle 1 and 35 stitches on Needle 2.
Continue in this manner, working the 4 rows of the chart until the leg of the sock is the desired length, then
bind off loosely in p3 k3.
This pattern is copyright protected
© 2007 Wendy D. Johnson

All rights reserved.
http://wendyknits.net
This pattern is for your personal, non-commercial use only.

You are not allowed to make garments from this pattern for sale anywhere.
You are not allowed to mass produce this pattern or garments made from it.

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What is the gauge and recommended needle size for this pattern?

What is the construction method used for this sock pattern?

Cabletini Toe-up Socks

Gauge: 8 stitches and 12 rows per inch

Slip stitch as if to purl

Needle 1: K 1, M1, knit until the last stitch, M1, K1

Then knit a round without increasing.

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until you have 55 stitches total on Needle 2.

Turn the Heel:

Row 1: (RS) 37, kfb, k1, w&t

Heel flap: Work back and forth on heel stitches:

This pattern is copyright protected

© 2007 Wendy D. Johnson

This pattern is for your personal, non-commercial use only.

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