Week :1

Lecture :1
TOPIC : Introduction to Garments,Operation sequences &
garments construction or P2P.

Garments: Garments should either tops or bottoms.

If it is a garments there are Six Conditions. Top garments have three conditions
and bottoms garments have three conditions. The conditions are given below:

Tops/Upper torso Conditions:

1. Consider the head (Neck area)

2. Two Hands consideration (Two Sleeve)

3. Cover the Chest/bust area (Body Area)

Bottoms/Lower Torso Conditions:

1. Need to consider the waist

2. Two legs considerations

3. Cover the Hip Area (circumferences)

Operation sequences & garments construction

Operation sequences or garments construction

Pattern Sampl Marker Cuttin Sewin Finishing Packing

e g g

Printing/ Washing
Embroider
y
Week :1
Lecture :2
TOPIC : Garments Machineries, Stitch types, Seam class

Garments Machineries
Mainly Garments Production sections are divided into three Main sections. In this
sections machinery are used,
1. Cutting Machinery,
2. Sewing Machinery &
3. Finishing Machinery.

1. Cutting Machinery,
1. Straight Knife,
2. Round knife,
3. Bound knife,
4. Fabric Inspection m/c,
5. Lay Cutter m/c,
6. Fabric Spreader m/c,
7. Numbering m/c,
8. Fusing m/c&
9. Hand Knife

2. Sewing Machinery
1. Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine [S.N.L.M]
2. Double Needle Lock Stitch m/c [D.M.L.M]
3. Single Needle Chain Stitch m/c [S.N.L.M]
4. Double Needle Chain Stitch m/c [D.N.C.M]
5. Over lock m/c [O.L.M]
6. Multi Needle Chain Stitch m/c/Knasai M/C
7. Inter lock / Flat lock m/c [F.L.M]
 8. Feed off The Arm m/c [F.O.A.M]
9. Eyelet Hole m/c [E.H.M]
10.Bar tack m/c [B.T.M]
11.Button Hole m/c [B.H.M]

3. Finishing Machinery

1. Thread Sucking m/c

2. Tag Gun m/c
3. Needle Detector m/c
4. Compressor (air) m/c
5. Rivet m/c
6. Button Stitch m/c
7. Spray gun
8. Pattern Sewer m/c

ATTACHMENTS OF MACHINE

Folder:

 Double waist belt folder

 Single waist belt folder
 Yoke folder
 Loop folder
 Piping folder

Guide:

 T - Guide
 G - Guide
 Magnet Guide
 Wings Guide
 Flying Guide

3. Feet:Pressure Feet (Left, Right, Flat) - 1/16, 3/16,1/4,

1/8, 1/32, 5/8, 3/4
 ATTACHMENTS OF MACHINE

(Lopper, Bobbin, Needle)

No M/c Name Lopper Bobbin Needle

01 Single Needle Lock Stitch × 1 1
02 Single Needle Chain Stitch 1 × 1
03 Double Needle Lock Stitch × 2 2
04 Double Needle Chain Stitch 2 × 2
05 Inter Lock 2 × 2
06 Flat Lock 1 × 2
07 Multi needle (W B) 4-21 × 4-21
08 Feed Off The Arm 3 × 3
09 Bar tack × 1 1
10 Eyelet Hole 2 × 1
11 Button Hole Stitch × 1 1
12 Pattern Sewer × 1 1
13 3 Thread O/L 2 × 1
14 4 Thread O/L 2 × 2
15 5 Thread O/L 3 × 2
 Stitch types
Name of
Class Number Stitch Diagram M/C Used
Stitch

BSI 100 Chain Stitch Blind Stitch

BSI 200 Hand Stitch

Single needle
lock stitch,
Double needle
BSI 300 Lock Stitch lock stitch,
Bar tack,
Button hole,
Button Stitch
Single needle
chain stitch,
Double needle
BSI 400 Multi-thread chain stitch,
Chain stitch Feed of the
Arm, Kansai
Multi Needle,
and Eye hole.

Over edge
BSI 500 Over lock
Chain Stitch

Covering
BSI 600 Flat Lock
Chain Stitch
BSI SEAM CLASS

BSI seam class

Class-1 Super Imposed seam, French Seam
Class-2 Lapped Seam, Lap felled Seam
Class-3 Bound Seam
Class-4 Flat Seam
Class-5 Decorative Seam
Class-6 Edge Neating seam/ Edge finished Seam
Week :2
Lecture :3
TOPIC : History of Work Study, Work Study Objectives &
Benefits

The History of work study

WALTER OF HENLEY (13th century)

Henley was the first practitioner of Work Study. He was an English farmer. He
studied about farming methods & how to improve them. He wrote a letter to his
son describing how to improve farming methods.

FREDERICK WINSLOW TAYLOR (1856 – 1915)

Taylor was an American mechanical engineer who sought to improve industrial

efficiency. He is regarded as the “Father of scientific management”, and was one
of the first management consultants. He broke the job into elements and timed
these with stopwatch. Based on these times he worked out a bonus system. His
major principle was “a fair days work for a fair days pay”.

In between the ears of Henley & Taylor, several other also discussed about work
study practices. They are,

 Leonardo Da Vinci (1452 – 1519)

 Perronnet& Pins (1760)
 Charles Babbage (1791 – 1832)
 Boulton & Sons (1800)
Work Study
Work Study is the systematic examination of the methods of carrying on activities
so as to improve the effective use of resources and to set up standards of
performance for the activities being carried out.

The Objectives of Work Study

1. Simplify or modify the operation to reduce unnecessary work.
2. Increase production and productivity.
3. Setting time standards.
4. Reduce cost by most effective usage of inputs.
5. Improvement of conditions, which involve an element of excessive fatigue
or danger.
6. Improve quality.     
7. Evaluation of human work.

The Benefits of Work Study

1. It improves productivity at a cheap cost;
2.It is a systematic & comprehensive method of analyzing a problem so that no
factor is overlooked in evaluating the problem and finding out a solution;
3. It can be easily & quickly implemented;
4. It provokes benefit as soon as it is applied and continues till it is in use;
5. It can reduce hazard by developing safer mode of work;
6.It is the most accurate method of setting standard time of performance upon
which effective planningn &production control relies upon;
7. Production quota can be determined for daily or hourly workers;
8. Production capacity of a mill or machine may be determined;
9. Balanced number of machine & worker may be determined.
 How the total time of a job is made up

Total time if
Basic work content How Management techniques can
reduce
All
techniques

Perfectly
applied Poor design & frequent Product development – reduces work content due to
poor design
Design changes

Waste of materials Proper materials utilization – reduces & utilizes waste

Incorrect Quality control– ensures proper standards and

qualitystandards inspection methods

Poor layout & utilization Better layout & process planning – reduces
unnecessary movements
Of space

Inadequate materials Materials handling – adapted to activity, reduces time &

effort
Handling

Frequent stoppages as Production planning & control – reduces ineffective

time
Ineffecti
Production changes
ve time
Ineffective methods of Method study of an activity – reduces work content
Totally work due to Poor methods of work
eliminate
d Poor planning of Inventory control – defines appropriate & most
inventory economical inventory levels
If all
technique Frequent breakdowns Preventive maintenance – ensures long life &
s continuous run of machines & equipments
of machines &equipment
Perfectly Absenteeism & lateness Proper management & personnel policy – can create
applied a satisfying working environment

Poor workmanship Training – can develop appropriate skills

Accidents & occupational Better working conditions–improves morale &

reducesabsenteeism
Hazards
Week :2
Lecture :4
TOPIC : Method Study& Work Measurement

Method study

Method study is the systematic recording and critical examination of ways of

doing things in order to make improvements. Method study is the systematic
recording & critical analysis of ways of doing a job so as to make improvements. It
analyzes how a work is being done currently to find out ways to improve so that
productivity increases. Method study discovers suitable and easier method of work
so that the task can be completed quickly.

The Objectives of method study

1. Simplify the task or eliminate it.

2. Eliminate unnecessary motions.
3. Reduce inherent work content.
4. Engineer the operation.

The Basic procedure of method study

1. Select - the job to be studied

2. Record - by collecting data or direct observation
3. Examine - by challenging purpose, place, sequence & method of work
4. Develop - new method, drawing on contributions of those concerned
5. Evaluate - results of different alternative solutions
6. Define - new method & present it
7. Install - new method & train persons in applying it
 8. Maintain - and establish control procedures

Basic Procedure of Method Study:

(1) Select the job or process to be studied.

(2) Record or collect all relevant data about the job or process, using the most
suitable data collection techniques (explained in Part Two), so that the data will be
in the most convenient form to be analyses.
(3) Examine the recorded facts critically and challenge everything that is done,
considering in turn: the purpose of the activity; the place where it is performed; the
sequence in which it is done; the person who is doing it; the means by which it is
done.
(4) Develop the most economic method, taking into account all the circumstances
and drawing as appropriate on various production management techniques
(explained in Part Three), as well as on the contributions of managers, supervisors,
workers and other specialists with whom new approaches should be explored and
discussed.
(5) Evaluate the results attained by the improved method compared with the
quantity of work involved and calculate a standard time for it.
(6) Define the new method and the related time and present it to all those
concerned, either verbally or in writing, using demonstrations.
(7) Install the new method, training those involved, as an agreed practice with the
allotted time of operation.
(8) Maintain the new standard practice by monitoring the results and comparing
them with the original targets.
Work measurementWork measurement is the application of techniques designed
to establish the time for a qualified worker to carry out a task at a defined rate of
working.

Objectives of work measurement

1. Measure work content.

2. Determine the time.

3. Key to Scientific Management.

Advantages of work measurement

1. Set targets
2. Calculate efficiency
3. Determine cost
4. Manpower allocation
5. Production planning & control
6. Incentive scheme

Work measurement techniques

1. Time study (Directly observing an operator)

2. Pre-determined motion time system

(Analyzing the motions used to carry out the activity)

3. Analysis of past records

 (Using previous records/studies available in the factory)

Techniques of Work Study

Work Study

Method study: Work measurement:

Simplifies a task & works Establishes standard
out a better, that an operator will take
easy&economical to complete the job.
methods

Worker can do the job Worker is motivated to

easily comfortably &
complete the job within a
quickly
scientifically set Standard
time
Worker takes less time to
accomplish thejob
Higherproductivity

Techniques OF “WORK STUDY”

Week :3
Lecture :5

TOPIC : Rating & Allowances.

Rating
Rating is the assessment of the worker’s rate of working relative to the observer’s
concept of the rate corresponding to standard pace. By definition, rating is
comparison of the rate of working observed by the work-study person with a
picture of some standard level in mind. This standard level is the average rate at
which qualified workers will naturally work at a job, when using the correct
method and when motivated to apply themselves to their work. This rate of
working corresponds to what is termed the standard rating, and is denoted by 100
on the rating scale. If the standard pace is maintained and the appropriate
relaxation is taken, a worker will achieve standard performance over the working
day or shift.

The scale of rating

The purpose of rating is to establish the standard time from recorded observed time
which a qualified worker can retain throughout her working time & which can be
used as a realistic basis for planning & Control, target setting etc.

There are several rating scales in use. Here we shall use British Standard Scale 100
BSI which is also known as 0-100 scale. The advantage of this scale is that 0
designates no activity while 10 represent standard rating which is normal for an
average qualified worker. The details of the scale are given below.
 SCALE OF RATING

Observed rating Speed

50 Very slow – no interest.

75 Steady – unhurried.

100 Brisk – business like.

125 Very fast – above average.

150 Outstanding – unusual.

The standard rate is the average rate with which qualified workers are assumed to
be able to work provided they are motivated to do the job & if right method of
work is applied. Such rate of work is called as standard rating. This standard rate
corresponds to 100 in the rating scale.This is called standard rating; because it is
assumed that majority of the qualified workers will be able to achieve such rate of
working. If appropriate allowance is provided a workercan retain standard
performance over the whole of working hours.

Process Cycle or operation cycle

Most of the works conducted on a mass scale have repetitive nature. For example,
a worker in an apparel industry performs her job again and again. She takes a
bundle of cut parts, opens the bundle, takes a part from it, position a to the
machine, completes sewing, ties up the bundle, keep it aside & takes another
bundle. This process continues all along. The series of movements from taking
apart from a bundle, fitting it, putting to the needle, sewing the part and disposing
the part to the bundle of sewn parts is called a process cycle.

Qualified worker qualified worker is a person who has the right skill,
knowledge, motivationn and other attributes to accomplish a job up to satisfactory
level of quality, quantity and safety.

Qualities of a qualified worker –

1. Achieves smooth & consistent movements.

2. Acquires rhythm.
3. Responds more rapidly to signals.
4. Anticipates difficulties and is more ready to overcome them
5. Carries out the task without giving the appearance of conscious attention,
and is therefore more relaxed.

Observed TimeAn operator in an apparel industry performs one or more

processes. The time she requires to complete her job as determined by a work
study officer by observing her time with the aid of a stop watch is called observed
time.

Basic Time Basic time is the time required by a qualified operator to complete
a job had she wworked at standard performance (or at 100 % rating). Basic time is
obtained by multiplying observed time rating of the worker. Thus Basic time =
Observed Time X Rating of the operator.
Sstandard TtimeStandard time of an operator is the time which a qualified
operator should take to accomplish it if she works at standard performance (at the
rating of 100) and provided she takes extra time allowed to her as allowance.
If time is counted in second it is called Standard time (or Standard Second) but if
time is calculated in minutes, Standard time is referred to as Standard Minute or
Standard Minute Value (SMV). In case of jackets or garments which take standard
time to the tune of more than 2,000 seconds standard time may be calculated as
Standard Minute or SMV. Standard time of an operation is also a constant value
though different operators may take different observed time due to their different
rating or efficiencies and if the allowance rate is fixed throughout the enterprise.
Allowance is calculated on Basic Time.

Allowance TimeWorker cannot and does not work continuously throughout

her full working hours. She has to open a bundle, tie it up, go to lavatory, take out
bobbin case, replace a blunt needle, talk to the supervisor or line inspector, a small
rest to recover from fatigue, etc. She cannot avoid doing all these things, because
they are beyond her control. She needs some time for her own personal needs. This
is why workers are entitled to some type of extra time for these types of
circumstances. This type of time allowed to operators for some unavoidable but
non-performing task is called allowance. The allowance time ranges from 15-25 %.
Allowance time is taken into account during setting up of Standard Time.
Types of allowances:
There are different types of allowances, namely:
1) Relaxation allowance,
2)Contingency allowance
3) Machine delay allowance,
4) Style change allowance
5) Special allowance, etc.

Week- 3
Lecture 5: SOP: Capacity Study, Loss Time Monitoring & Operation
Bulletin

1. Capacity study is one of theSOP. This formats use in sewing line.

By using this formats to calculate the SMV.
2. Loss time Monitoring Format identity the root problems in
manufacturing unit.
3. Operation Bulleting also called operation Breakdown.

Meghna Knit Composite

Daily Lost time monitorin
Factory -…………………………...
Line no -……………………………

No. of
Date Style Process Reason for Loss Worker Sta
s From
So

           
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
IE Dpt.

A NO INPUT FROM CUTTING G NO SUPPLY DU

EMBROIDER/PRINTING INPUT
B PROBLEM H QUALITY ISSU
C CUTTING MISTAKE I TECHNICAL IS
D EMBROIDER/PRINTING MISTAKE J TRIM DELAY
E MACHINE BREAKDOWN K POWER FAILU
F NO SUPPLY DUE TO PREVIOUS M/C BREAKDOWN L OTHER REASO

LOSS TIME SUMMARY

A   G    
B   H    
C   I    
D   J    
E   K    
F   L    
Capacit
Section : Buyer :
Supervisor : Item :
W.S.O :   Line no :
Cycle time
Bndl
No: Card. no: Name Operation M/C Avg time
T
1 2 3 4 5

 
                   

 
                   

 
                   

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     
                      

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

Week :3
Lecture : 6 : Quiz/Class Test
Time: 20 Minutes Set-A Marks: 15

Name: ID: Group:

Quiz: Answer the questions in brief

1. Which one is correct-1. Engnieering 2.Enginering 3. Engineering 4.Enginnering

2. In Which Process Feed of the arm Machine is use.

3. Which machine is used in BSI 300 Class Stitch?

4. Mention the name of Stitch type.

5. Write the equipment required for Time study.

6. Mention the name of Founder of Work-study.

7. Full Meaning of,

BSI =

ISO =

8. Write the Component of Work Study

Brief questions (Answer in brief back side of the page)

1. Mention the name of few Sewing machineries.

2. Mention the name of Lower Torso condition of garments.

Week :4
Lecture :7
Topics: SMV Calculation
Formula,
Observed time = Total process cycle time/ Number of Cycle
Basic time = Observed time X Rating %
Standard minute Value= Basic time + Allowance% on Basic time

Exercises 1:
Find out the SMV of a process called shoulder joint and the
selected operator is Ashik. Her cycle times are, 0.30, 0.29, 0.29,
0.29, and 0.31. Consider her rating 70% and 20% allowances
time.
Solution of Exercise: 1
Step 1: Here,
Observed time = Total process cycle time/ Number of Cycle
= 0.30+ 0.29+ 0.29+ 0.29+ 0.31
5
= 0.296 minute
= 0.30 Minute
Step 2: Therefore,
Basic time = Observed time X rating %
= 0.30 X70%
=0.21 Minute
Step 3: Finally,
Standard minute Value= Basic time + Allowance%
= 0.21 + 20% [0.21X20%=0.042]
= 0.21 +0.042
= 0.25 Minute

Answer: SMV of a process called shoulder joint =0.25 Minute.

Exercises 2
Calculate the SMV of the process Side Seam and the selected operator is
Nazrul His cycle time- 0.88, 0.87, 0.86, 0.85, 0.89, 0.86. Consider Her
Rating 75%, Allowance-25%.