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Home Wiring Demystified: Electrical Cable Basics

You Need to Know

Brad Holden
Updated: Sep. 23, 2019

Before you take on your next home wiring project, arm yourself with basic
information about the electrical cable and wiring that you’re likely to see.

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Electrical Cable Types: The Basics

The wire and cable aisle at your home center can be a pretty confusing place. In this article,
you’ll learn how to identify di erent electrical cable types and their use, and how to determine
the size of individual wires and their purpose. You’ll be able to cut through the confusion, get
exactly what you need and ensure that your wiring is safe.

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Even if you have years of wiring experience, there are always a few tricks you may not know. We
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worked with two master electricians to gather these 9 Tips for Easier Home Electrical Wiring.

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Cable vs. Wire

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People often use these terms interchangeably, but there’s a di erence: Cable is an assembly of
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two or more wires in a single jacket. Wires are the individual insulated or bare conductors inside
the jacket. See the top 10 tools you need for DIY electrical work at home.

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Wire Gauge
Wires come in di erent sizes/gauges to work with the amperage of the circuit in which they’re
used. It’s counterintuitive, but the larger the number, the smaller the wire. The most common
sizes you’ll nd in residential work are 14-gauge and 12-gauge. Larger appliances such as electric
stoves, electric water heaters, electric dryers and central air units will often use 10-, 8- or even 6-
gauge wire.

If you’re adding an outlet, you need to use wire the same gauge as the existing wiring. How do
you tell your old wiring gauge? Here’s a simple visual.

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Cable by the Numbers

An electrical cable is classi ed by two numbers separated by a hyphen, such as 14-2. The rst
number denotes the conductor’s gauge; the second denotes the number of conductors inside
the cable. For instance, 14-2 has two 14-gauge conductors: a hot and a neutral. This cable also
contains a bare copper wire as the ground. Individual conductors are also color-coded, which
tells you their purpose in the circuit.

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Outer Sheath Color Coding

The color of a cable’s outer sheath tells you the gauge of the wire inside the sheath as well as
the amperage rating for the circuit.

WHITE = 14-gauge wire, 15-amp circuit

YELLOW = 12-gauge wire, 20-amp circuit

ORANGE = 10-gauge wire, 30-amp circuit

BLACK = 8- or 6-gauge wire, 45- or 60-amp circuits. Check sheath labeling for gauge and circuit
speci cs.
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GRAY = Underground cable.
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check the sheath
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labeling for gauge and circuit speci cs.

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APRIL CAT/SHUTTERSTOCK

Not All Cable is Color-Coded

Cable-sheath color coding started in 2001 and is still voluntary. If you have older wiring, don’t
assume it complies with the current color coding. However, most manufacturers now follow the
standard color code.

Wiring problems and mistakes are all too common, and if left uncorrected have the potential to
cause short circuits, shocks and even res. Here are the Top 10 Electrical Mistakes.

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Wire Color Coding

This code is standard for all conductors. The colors you’re most likely to nd in your home are
the following:

BLACK (OR RED) = HOT. Hot wires carry current from the panel to the device, which could be a
switch, receptacle, light xture or appliance. There are other colors for hot wires, but they’re
much less common.

WHITE = NEUTRAL. Neutral wires carry the current back to the panel, completing the circuit.

BARE (OR GREEN) = GROUND. In the event of a ground fault, the ground wire provides a path
for the fault current to return to the panel, opening the breaker or blowing the fuse, cutting o
the ow of electricity.

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NM-B – Nonmetallic Cable

This is the most common type of electrical cable in homes built since the mid-’60s. “Nonmetallic”
simply means that the outer jacket is not metal. It’s often referred to as Romex, which is a brand
name. Typically, NM-B cable has either two conductors and a ground, or three conductors and a
ground. The conductors are individually insulated, wrapped in paper and sheathed in plastic.
Ground wires are either bare copper or insulated in green.

14-2 Used for general lighting and receptacle circuits. 15-amp circuit maximum.

14-3 Used for three-way switches and split receptacle circuits. 15-amp circuit maximum.

12-2 Used for 20-amp kitchen, bathroom, laundry and garage receptacles; 230-volt heating
circuits up to 3,700 watts; and 115-volt circuits up to 1,800 watts. Can be used anywhere in place
of 14-2.

12-3 Same uses as 12-2, with the addition of three-way switches and split receptacle circuits.

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UF – Underground Feeder Cable

UF is used primarily to bring power to detached garages, outbuildings or outdoor lighting. The
insulated conductors are molded into the sheathing. Depending on the situation, UF is either
direct-buried or run in conduit. It must be protected from physical damage by conduit where it
exits the ground and is exposed.

Learn How to Wire a Switch and Outlet the Safe and Easy Way.

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MC – Metal-Clad Cable
MC cable is common in un nished areas where the cable would otherwise be exposed and
subject to physical damage. It’s also sometimes used inside walls. A bare aluminum wire is in

continuous contact within the metal sheathing. The combination of aluminum wire, sheathing
and metal boxes grounds the circuit.
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Stranded Wire vs. Solid

Stranded wire is more exible than solid. If you’re pulling wire through conduit, stranded wire
makes it easier to get around corners and bends in the conduit. However, if the situation
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requires pushing wires through conduit, you’ll want to use solid wire.
    
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Plus, Learn How to Run Power Anywhere.

Originally Published:September 23, 2019

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