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Otto Kunzli

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Künzli’s minimalist, yet meticulously crafted work references cultural phenomena, utilising the

power of metaphor and iconography with wit and sophistication.


The reason I'm so passionate about his work is because of the way he looks at jewelry, exploring
the limits of jewelry and exposing the philosophical side of jewelry
This 'dark' Mickey Mouse brooch was made by the Swiss-trained Otto Kunzli (born 1948),

. Kunzli created this iconic brooch after time spent in America, as part of a body of work that
questions American icons and values. A combination of a heart shape and large Mickey Mouse
ears, it was inspired by Walt Disney's cartoon character Mickey Mouse and the comic superhero
Batman, who Künzli argues is not a friend of humanity but 'abysmally evil'. 

Eva Czernis-Ryl, Curator, 2020

“You could say this is conceptual, but it’s not really,” he says. “I have so much
humor and so much fun and I never call myself as a conceptual artist. But it’s
kind of been established, so I stopped fighting it and said ‘OK.’ ”

“Jewelry is considered the earliest evidence of knowledge storage outside of


the human brain, which means nothing else but the beginning of cultural
activities — and that is set as somehow the beginning of being human,” Kunzli
explains. “Before, older artifacts were tools, practical items — functional.
(Jewelry) is the beginning of art.”

And yet, he laments, “So few people analyze jewelry.”

“One of the few principles of my life is to imagine opposites: I often question


what I’m doing, or try to find out more about the possibility that I’m
pursuing,” he says. “I like to question it, chase it around and look at it from a
different angle.”

unconventional materials or finding unorthodox approaches to traditional


materials.

Of gold, the ubiquitous and yet still coveted material, he says, “It’s now used in
such an arbitrary way. Literally bulls—- has been made in gold just because
people are crazy about it.” He wanted to return it to the darkness of rocks and
so, he says, “I enclosed it in a black band — so you can’t see it.”

That bangle, “Gold Makes You Blind” (1980),a piece of “statement jewelry”
that literally comments on gold adornment as a form of investment.

He constantly reminds us that jewelry always had a purpose — whether


symbolic, functional, religious or purely decorative — before he deconstructs
those values to rebuild them in ironic and often humorous forms.
 His work is featured in many public collections,
including the Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam, the
Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, the Royal College of Art
Collection in London, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in
New York, and the National Museum of Modern Art in
Tokyo. Künzli is also well known as a teacher, holding a
20-year position at the Akademie der Bildenden Künste
München as the Chair in Goldsmiths’ Art. 

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