2nd Printing

Advanced 604 Repair

A bit of Advice
If you are doing a major repair and you do the tech and part upgrades
recommended on page 5 and pages 7 to 17, both you and your cus-
tomer are going to be happy campers. You will love it! Gil Younger

Subject Page Subject Page

Index 1 Controller Connector 25
Mystery: Inside or Outside 2 Important power pins 27
Pressure ports 3 Solenoid Connector 25
Pressure checks 4 Solenoid pressure switches 29/30
Air Check outside through ports 4 Wiring Schematic 26
Check and repair eyelets Power & ground pins 26
Most important: Sensor eyelets. 5 Turn Key Limp [no shifts] 27
Fast outside checks. 6 Lockup and code 38 30
Major Repair Section No 4th & code 46 31
Output sensor clearance 7 Quick Complaint Summary 32
Overheating & planet failure 7
Bypass valve—Underdrive hub 7 Complaint Legend
Replacing OD hub or planet 8 Cold delay or cold limp 24
Underdrive piston wear 9 Turn Key Limp [no shifts] 27
Clutch Retainer [Drum] Ass’m 10 Immediate limp 6
Input Hub 11 Intermittent Limp 6
Stator Support: Check wear 12 Hot trip limp 23
Reminders 12 3-4-3-4-3 and code 46 31
Valve body alignment No 4th 31
Shift Kit®: Upgrades the inside 13 Late shifts and No 4th 31
causes of limp and codes 13 Spinup or neutral as stopping
Valve Body Balls/retainers- 14 or right after a quick stop 24-1
High line: Limp/Codes 39-22-24 14 Upshifts to neutral cold 24-2
Channel Warp: 15 Delay forward HOT 9&32
Limp and Codes 22-24 15 Delay forward or limp COLD 9&24
Part numbers you’ll need 16 Bindup in 1st: Codes 22-24 15
Re-Schedule Controller 17 Delayed Reverse 32-8
Road Test No lockup—Slipping Lockup 30
Trouble shooting 18 Burned UD or OD clutches 9/10/11/13
EMCC [Partial lockup] 18 Rough 1-2 shift 13/14
Why a Scanner? 19 Rough 4-3 coast downshift 32-13
Code Definitions 20-21 Intermittent or Hot only limp 24-2DE
Codes for slip or sensors 22-24 Immediate limp [under 12mph] 32&6

Page 1
 No More Mystery
Inside or Outside? The discussion, at Inside or Outside? In a perfect
many shops, that never ends is, “Is the world there would be time, space and
problem on the outside or on the in- conditions to diagnose everything ‘by
side”. I think the answer 99% of the the book’. Like attach pressure
time is BOTH; and you better fix both gauges and scanner, then find 100
or it’s just not going to be fixed, and degree weather and a long hot uphill
stay fixed. grade to really get it hot, then you just
Local Scene: Van goes to limp 3 or 4 park it in a place that’ll be below zero
times a week and 6 times on the trip to in the morning so you can check it
visit the grandma. But by turning the cold too.
key on and off, it does get there. If you find such a time, places and
If OD clutches were badly burned it conditions you could make a perfect
would keep aborting 4th and go limp diagnosis in only a day and half.
daily, not just 3 or 4 times a week; If you have an unlimited amount of
but, they are burned enough to go limp time, great tools and exactly the right
when adding throttle on a long hot hill parts to upgrade each shortcoming
unlocks the converter and multiplies en- you could fix each complaint one at a
gine torque. time.
The van comes in the shop Thurs- Also with great tools and about a
day. It fails the wire wiggle test [Page weeks driving, with your eyeball glued
5]. We resize eyelets in output con- to a scanner, you could absolutely de-
nector. Customer goes to grandma’s cide between a trans problem [inside]
on Sunday and trans goes limp three and an electrical problem [outside].
times on the trip. Then you could brag about it all
Monday: Customer calls with the over town. Do you think maybe the
words we just love, “Its doing the same newspaper would like to know or
thing it did before you worked on it”. maybe your wife’s aunt?
This trans isn’t going to really be INSIDE or OUTSIDE? The truth is
fixed until OD clutch capacity is up- WHO CARES, just fix both and get on
graded to hold heavy throttle, red hot, with your life.
with converter unlocked in 4th and 3rd. It’s a terrific trans. For its size it
It also is not going to be fixed for does an amazing job and will last a
keeps until a bullet proof underdrive long time with just a few upgraded
seal is installed and a few other leaks parts and your caring attention.
are eliminated.
What I love most about this trans is that you can change any
or all of the electrical in 10 minutes. At my age I find it just
marvelous not having to be on my head under the dash or
behind the glove box, or under the seat or in a kick panel.
A shop usually doesn’t get any more money for working on it
longer, so changing parts is often the fast best thing to do.
Both sensors $30. Sensor wire patch $14. Rebuilt control-
ler $95. New $195. Fuse link $4 to $6. At these prices you
can’t spend hours wondering if something is bad.
Just bolt another part on and if it does’nt fix anything put it
back in the box and onto your shelf for the next job.

Page 2
 604 Trans Repair
The first trans to control the release of one gear and apply of the next gear without
use of sprags or band. The clutch retainer [drum] stackup may seem strange, but
when you consider that one assembly produces four ratios plus reverse, it’s the most
comprehen-sive design built today. Most errors made during major repair is mis-as-
sembly in clutch drums. Throughly learning correct stackups will save you many
R&R hours in the next few years.

Turbine Speed Sensor Output Speed Sensor

Return From
Cooler

NSS

PRNDL
Low/Rev Clutch
2-4 Clutch
Lockup Off
Reverse Clutch Pressure fitting adapter.
TransGo #604-Fitting
Over Drive Clutch [Two for $12]
Under Drive Clutch

Electrical parts on the trans

Remove all electrical parts BEFORE disassembly of the trans. Don’t allow electri-
cal parts to be placed in a parts washer. The magnets and electrical contacts will
collect metal particles and cause complaints that can drive you up the wall. Sensors
and switches can be cleaned by hand in clean solvent. [No metal particles]
If oil, moisture, or corrosion is in the connectors or connecter cavity of the solenoid
pack, sensors or switches, replace them. If the trans has serious metal contamina-
tion replace the PRNDL switch.
Page 3
Pressure Check Guideline
After attaching a gauge bleed the High pressure is more often a
hose by loosening the gauge until fluid problem than low pressure.
comes out. If you don’t bleed the HIgh Pressure: If pressure in for-
hose you will get a slower reading and ward gear, in 1st or 2nd, is over 155
a big change in CVI [flow] to make up psi at L/R or over 145 psi at UD re-
for the air. When you remove a place reducer bushing. [#604-Bush]
gauge the shift to that clutch will be a Forward Delay HOT: Underdrive
little firmer until the controller adjusts has low pressure HOT [50-70psi]
the CVI for no gauge. with a delay and a solenoid rattle to-
Locate clutch circuit leaks by com- wards the end of the engagement.
paring pressures to each other. [Shift Kit® prevents this complaint.]
This means attach two gauges. Qualification: Disconnect the sole-
A Normal apply acts like this: noid pack. If trans engages fast for-
Pressure will increase rapidly to some- ward and reverse the pump is OK.
where between 10 and 15 lbs, where Comment: Chrysler 7176 fluid is
it will barely hesitate and then go on thicker than Dexron. Sometimes a
up rapidly. The hesitation should not thicker fluid will correct a forward de-
last longer than it takes to say, “one”. lay complaint.
The hesitation is the action of the con-
troller and the solenoid to assure a
smooth engagement. Air checks:
The entire apply from start to finish Through pressure ports
should not take any longer than an out When air checking you will notice
loud count of “One thousand and giant leaks at the valve body and
one”, [1-1/2 Sec]. If the gauge needle channel casting. Since this valve
hesitates anywhere long enough to body does not have gaskets, it is OK
say the word, “thousand” there is a to flat sand the valve body and the
circuit leak problem. With a leak prob- channel casting. Flat sanding can
lem the hesitation will be between 10 reduce a delayed forward engage-
& 35 psi. With a bad leak the needle ment and prevent limp and codes
will just park for awhile and then may caused by cross leaks.
go on up. Try it, you will love the results!
Here is the truth of this matter: An air check through the pressure
If you have a trans with a slip and you ports is only useful for locating a BIG
don’t know what normal pressure re- leak such as a missing or a cut rub-
ally looks like, you can spend two ber. The clutch circuits have bleed
days hunting it. It’s just not easy. holes, so will not be air tight, espe-
Gauge up a trans that is working cially underdrive.
right, a couple ports at a time and Underdrive and Low/Reverse:
make a few notes on how the pres- Selector in “D” Key ON.
sure responds at each clutch. That 2/4 and underdrive:
experience plus the pressure compari- Selector in “D” Key OFF.
son chart on page 3 will lead you to Reverse: Select Rev, Key OFF.
the leak.

Page 4
 Check/Fix Eyelets
Most important thing before diagnosis and before giving car
to customer. Eyelet resizing and wiggle testing connections:
COMPLAINTS: LIMP with one or more these codes: 39-51-52-53-54-56-57.
With Scanner: With car on rack, Without Scanner: Unplug 60 pin
hood up, two guys. With selector connecter at controller. Set OHM
in “3" hold speed steady at 45 to to 1000 range. Hold leads against
60 mph and watch the sensors on pins 13 & 14 while someone wiggles
the scan tool, while the 2nd man the wires going to output sensor.
wiggles the wires going to the Meter must read 350 to 900 and stay
sensors. steady when the wires are wiggled.
If wiggling wires affects the read- Check turbine sensor the same way
ing, replace the wires or resize between pins 13 and 52 while some-
the eyelets in the connectors. one wiggles the wires.
Scan tool may be slow to show If OHM meter wiggles on either test,
changes in readings. Be patient. resize the eyelets or replace wires.

Wire Kit
Resizing Eyelets #4419478

Separator

A. With edge of razor blade pop Solenoid Pack: Connect computer.

out the center separator. Wheels in air, start engine, put trans
B. Insert #59 or #60 drill into eye- in “1" and let the wheels turn at idle.
let. With small screwdriver squeeze Wiggle the wires going to Solenoid
the eye down against the drill. pack for one minute. If wiggling wires
C. Then test size. A #56 or 3/64" will make the trans shift to 2nd resize
drill must go in snug. solenoid connector eyelets.

Listen up: If the trans has passed the wiggle test and it’s still going to
Limp when driving on the road, then for a test change both speed sensors.
If it’s still going into Limp and setting above codes the problem is inside.

Just removing the connectors often damages them.

They must be removed and installed straight.
Just yanking them off or installing them on an angle
or with a lot of wiggle opens up the eyelets.
Also overtightening the screw on the controller and
solenoid connector will deform the eyelets.

Page 5
 Complaints & Fast Outside Checks
In limp mode, the trans has second gear and reverse and
will not upshift or downshift by moving the shift lever.
Using a scan tool will quickly verify these complaints.
Trans is OK when cold but it goes to Immediate limp, Step by Step Correction
“Limp Mode” [starts in 2nd and won’t
downshift with lever] when warm or hot. 1. Unclip the cover over the solenoid con-
nector wires. Stab pin #4 with test light.
First thing you need to know Turn ignition “ON” while watching bulb.
Is it a trans problem? A. Bulb does not light at all: Remove
Or an electrical problem? the controller connector. Smell controller for
stink. Fold back the cover on the controller
Trans problems—-Usually not electrical: connector to expose the wires and recon-
1. Intermittent limp [Only when hot] nect to controller. Back probe wire 56 with
2. Short neutral condition while stopping safety pin and test light. If not hot replace
3. Slip, then clang after quick stop controller fuse link. Back probe 11. If Key
4. Delayed engagement forward. ON doesn’t light bulb replace ignition fuse
5. Long soft and/or shudder 1-2 shift link. Back probe 16 and 17. If key ON
6. Long 2-3 shift, especially hot. does not light bulb replace EATX relay
7. No 3-4 shift, or tries and shuttles 3-4- Bulb must light between pins 56 and 57 with
3-4-3, then goes limp or quits trying. key OFF or ON.
[Remember: If controller is changed or bat-
IMMEDIATE limp mode. Most often an tery or controller has been disconnected,
electrical problem——Not a trans problem. controller must be re-scheduled, page 18.]
After restarting engine, the trans is still in
limp mode or goes to limp mode at light B. Bulb lights up, but then goes out:
throttle before 12 mph. This is an electri- Solenoid, PRNDL, or EATX relay has failed
cal problem and most often easy to fix. continuity test. Recheck connections—retry.
Immediate limp mode is most often Light doesn’t stay on, Change these parts.
caused by a speed sensor or solenioid 1. Swap/replace solenoid pack. Road test.
connections or bad output speed sensor, 2. Replace/swap EATX relay. Road test.
or a wrong or faulty controller or fuse link. 3. Replace PRNDL switch. Road test.
Buy a small stock of new parts. It’s very 4. Remove VB and check the solenoid
often easier and 10 times faster [therefore switch valve for being stuck inboard.
cheaper] to install parts and road test,
rather than spend hours or days learning, REMEMBER: Correcting IMMEDIATE limp
locating, and repairing electrical glitches. complaint doesn’t correct INTERMITTENT
limp mode or other trans complaints such
IMMEDIATE limp, parts swap method: as soft shifts, down clunks, slip/clunk on
Perform one step at a time until problem is start-off or shudders, etc.
corrected. Then re-install the old part to
verify the fault. Then re-install new part. Intermittant limp mode: Trans shifts when
1. Check and resize speed sensor connec- cold but goes to limp mode when warm or
tor eyelets [Page 5] and solenoid eyelets hot. Check/fix eyelets as shown on page 5
[page 26]. Road test. and page 26 FIRST. Then replace output
2. Replace the output sensor. Road test. and turbine sensors.
3. Replace the turbine sensor. Road test. Retest like this: Trans shifts OK until it
4. Replace/swap EATX relay. Road test. goes on warm trip. The problem is usu-
5. Swap/change controller. Road test. ally NOT electrical — it’s trans. [page 1 3]

Page 6
 Output Sensor Clearnce
Look carefully at the end of the sensors.
If there are scratches on the magnet it is
rubbing. If it has scratches grind end
shorter approxmately .032". A new sensor
may also rub and need grinding.
Has
scratches

Grind 1/32"
off the end
Clearance between the end of sensor
and carrier lugs should be .020 to .045.
Grind magnet end shorter as necessary.
Sensors: If connector pins will “finger-wiggle” it
is time for another one. If there is oil, moisture or
corrosion in the connector cavity—get another one.

Lube Upgrade
Underdrive Hub

Drill cup plug in underdrive

hub .086 to .096 to increase
lube flow to the planets.

If the case has a 2" deep hole here it

MUST HAVE a cooler bypass valve in-
stalled. Less than 1" no bypass valve.

Cooler
Bypass Valve
O’ring
Check bypass valve: Mouth blow on
o’ring end of cooler bypass valve, it
must be air tight. If the valve is not air
tight replace it #4539880.

Page 7
 O/D Hub Wear/Breakage
OD hubs will have some wear but are still OK to use if sharp edges
on splines will wire buff off. If splines have deep dents or notches
that plates could get stuck into replace the hub.
Sometimes a plate with stripped teeth went round and round over
the hub splines. This happens when the other plates have burned
which puts all the torque on that plate that had stripped teeth.
Its usually OK to use a hub that had a stripped plate.
Replacement Hub/shaft is available as a three piece kit.
Use all three parts together they do not mix with earlier parts.

OD Hub OD Hub/Planet Kit

Splines wear out.
#4762712

OD shaft often breaks especially The new shaft is stronger.

in vans or vehicles with larger It is bigger and has more
engines or hard working rigs. bushing area.
[Like TransGo’s test vehicle]

The new planet has a deeper unsplined

shoulder to accept the longer journal on New sun gear bushings are larger
the new clutch hub. to accept the new larger shaft.

Page 8
 604-42LE
Limp or Delayed Forward movement when cold:
Limp After highway run:
May set one or more of these codes-36, 39 or 53.
Close inspection of underdrive pis- The computer sees the delayed
ton bore will show some wear and apply by watching the sensors and
a ridge where the piston has places trans in limp and sets code
rubbed against the seal groove in 36 along with 39 or 53.
the input hub. The ridge nibbles An ignition cycle restart will get
the seal and the wear causes leak. trans going again until it gets cold or
With a worn piston or a cut seal has long run in 4th.
there will be a delay or no forward A temporary solution is a new pis-
and sometimes limp on cold ton. A better fix is a high quality
startup, until the seal warms and seal that is pliable enough to seal in
becomes more pliable. the worn area and tough enough
During a long run in 4th the seal that the ridge won’t cut it. It is in-
relaxes and fails to re-seal quickly cluded in 606/604 Shift Kit®.
during a 4-3 coast downshift.

Inspect piston here

for wear and ridge.

Underdrive Piston

New tough seal with expander is

furnished in 606/604 Shift Kit®.
It will save buying a piston that will
Input Hub have the same problem in a few
thousand miles.
New seal does not air check very
well, but works great in the trans.

Page 9
 Identify Clutch Retainer Mis-matched parts and wrong clutch plate stackup is
Clutch Retainer Assm [Clutch Drum & a common cause of rework & comeback.
[Clutch Drum] 1st design press plate-—Thickness .198 Assemble the drums without installing the clutch hubs.
Insert a nickel in tapered groove. Fits early retainer only: Pressure Plates] Then check the clutch clearance. Then install hubs.
Measure from top of drum to nickel. Use .068 taper snap ring on top of 1st Don’t adjust clearance below minimum.
UD/OD plate. OD plate stackup: UD .035 to .058. OD .042 to .096
Three .085 friction & two .101 steel. Rev .036 to .039 L/R .042 to .065 [not pictured]
Convert to four OD plates: Thickness: Tooth
Plate, kit, 3rd , w/s’ring 4723683 Place tooth UD/OD pressure plate
1st type drum: Retainer, UD/OD 4505623 against spot 1st and 2nd design: Flat across top and tooth.
Less than 1-1/2" Use .068 tapered snap ring on top. 4377189
2nd type drum: Use .061 flat snap ring under this plate. 4377195
More than 1-1/2"
2nd design press plate--Thickness .160
Fits late retainer only: 2nd UD/OD pressure plate
US Nickel 3rd design: Offset for tapered snap ring.
[.072 thick] Use .068 taper snap ring [4377189] on top
of UD/OD pressure plate. .075 to .079 tapered snap ring on top. 4567602
OD plate stackup: .061 flat snap ring under this plate. 4377195
1st type One .085 friction, three .071 friction and Stackup: (4) .071 friction—(3) .068 steel
three .068 steels. [Install .085 friction on .140 thickness tooth
top of UD/OD press plate. 3rd
2nd type
CODES
OD/REV
It is smart to use 3rd design Press plate Friction
Watch it: There’s a deep or
shallow lip seal here. plate/snap ring if you have 2nd Removal damages this snap
Steel
type retainer. #4723683 ring. Always install a new
R one. 6501812 Snap ring
E
Preferred Method V Waved
3rd design press plate—Thickness .140 snap ring
Fits late retainer only: O
Use .076 taper snap ring on top of UD/OD D Taper snap ring
pressure plate. Snap ring breakage will be 3rd 1st & 2nd type:
history. Plate kit, 3rd, w/S’ring 4723683 Use .068
Offset U 3rd: .075 to .079
Round sharp edges OD plate stackup: D
with a small file. Four .071 frictions and three .068 steels.
Clearance should be .080 to .090 leave it .061 flat
there. No need to reduce clutch clearance. snap ring.

Do not install .071 to .075 friction

against 1st or 2nd design UD/OD
1st & 2nd type UD/OD pressure plates pressure plate. It will let the first
are flat & sharp across top and tooth. steel plate butt against snap ring &
File teeth edges. Just barely file edge of keep 1st OD friction from holding.
teeth so sharp edge won’t cut snap ring. WARNING: Never install 2nd Tap these two snap rings
or 3rd type UD/OD plate into Lip Seals
Install with lip down deep into the groove.
Don’t use .061 taper snap ring anywhere. an early type drum.
Page 10
 Reduce/avoid these pressure loss complaints:
Delayed, Quiver/Shudder and/or rough engagements.
4-3 coast clunk. 4-3 or 4-2 KD bang [tieup].
B. Stator Support: Feel input shaft bore,
A. If .005 feeler will go into with your finger, where input shaft rings ride.
groove with the ring, replace the If bore has even slight wear, replace the
ring. If .005 will go in with new support and the input hub. Listen: If input
ring, replace the support. shaft bore in stator is smooth it’s OK to re-use
input hub with some wear in hub bore.

Install the fatest seals

Look and feel that will install easily
A: RINGS in Stator bore into grooves.
Lip seal

HUB

Input shaft
1 2 3 4
1st type: 3 rings. Hub bore
2nd type: 4 rings.
Snap ring grooves
Pump & Stator
Don’t Hot Tank Stator INPUT HUB

4-3 coast down limp Rough 4-3 coast down

Intermitent No drive, or delayed drive engagement
With rings removed closely inspect
ring groove for stepped wear.
Replace stator if step wear is found.
Step wear in ring groove.

Stator

Page 11
 REMINDERS First

Valve body assembly: Always install

and snug these two bolts FIRST. This
will prevent misalignment. No impact.

1. BEFORE cleaning the case,

remove the electrical parts:
Switches, solenoids and sensors must
not be exposed to chemicals, water or
metal particles that are present in parts
cleaning machines and fluids.

2. Adjust output sensor clearance: 8. 2nd, OD and UD accms: Pistons

install in the bore, closed end in first.
See page 6 Then the springs install into pistons.
3. Replace heavy eyelet type snap 9. After major repair or replacing
ring [6501812] that holds the input hub controller, or disconnecting the battery, or
to the clutch housing. Inside taper disconnecting the controller, the controller
installs up. must be re-scheduled and re-road tested as
shown on page 15.
4. ALWAYS install an .084 to .087
friction plate on top of 1st or 2nd 10. Tap all tapered snap rings deep into the
design UD/OD pressure plate. groove to seat them soldily.
5. Check OD clutch clearance AFTER 11. Locktite transfer gear bolt and nut.
clutch retainer is completely assembled.
Then take it back apart and install the 12. Always update to 3rd design UD plate
hub. and snap ring when ever 2nd design
retainer is used.
6. Check the input shaft bore in the
stator support. PAGE 10 13. Big shops that do a lot of 604 repairs
have found that Chrysler 7176 fluid works
7. Low Reverse Accm: (In the case the best. Dexron is thinner.
under the round cover). The springs
install in the bore and then the piston. 14. Before delivering to customer recheck
connections as shown on page 5

Page 12
 [Paid Advertisement]
606/604 Shift KIt® and Tech Pack
Eliminates many of the internal causes of Limp
and codes. Produces clean good feeling shifts.
Hard Spacer, for low reverse housing.
Combined with O’ring and expander
spring makes a total seal between the
housing and the case FOREVER.
Tight end
Expander
O’ring Spring

This reduces complaint of goes limp

when stopping or right after stopping;
cutloose right after a quick stop; and
short runaway on 3-1 or 3-2 kickdown.
Reduces Limp and codes 39 & 51.

New Pressure Regulator Spring:

Upgrade to increase OD clutch and
lockup capacity. Reduces 4th abort
and codes 39, 46, 53 and 54.

Four precision accu- Piston has wear

mulator spacers. and ridge here.
Cleaner shifts with
less overlap and
lower friction heat. Underdrive
Four special seals. Piston
These work
everytime. Teflon New tough seal with
rings miss at times expander. This will
and cause save buying a piston
cutloose, limp and [$27] that will have Seal
codes. “You will the same problem in Expander
love the clean a few thousand
Four Low miles.
Friction seals. Corrects cold delay
and limp on hot trip, Input
Hub

Shift Kit® also contains 4 pages of tech you

need at the bench to prevent comebacks.

Page 13
 604/42LE High Line Pressure
COMPLAINTS: Throws oil out dip stick—Lockup Plate Buckle
Pump Bushing Spinout—Planet burnup—Rough/Chatter 1-2 shift
Rough or Bindup 2-3—-4-3 Coast Clunk—-Codes 22 & 24.
High line can cause all of
ABOVE complaints and more.
Worn reducer bushing causes
Retainer high line pressure.
Sleeve End
Press Reg Assem plug Retainer

Ball
Shoulder Reducer Valve
Ball Retainer
Ball

Ball
Reducer If Reducer valve is
Bushing loose in bushing
orTransGo
WARNING: 604-Bush for $9
604 No Ball Here. will save VB.
Retainer Ball Here 606/42LE. Grind 1/8" chamfer on out-
Retainer Ball here in a 604 board end of reducer bushing.
causes 3-4 bindup.
2nd type 92up: With 2 piece lockup
control valve, has retainer here. 604: 4 checkballs
Enables EMCC. Missing retainer
causes low line and trans burnup. 606/42LE: 5 balls
The bottom line on the Reducer Bushing is that all 89-91’s you’ll
be fixing will need a new bushing. Miles just wears them out.
When the bushing is worn it not only causes high line, but also
shuts off converter feed and lube flow. This can cause planet
burnup. It also will cause loss of startoff power and fluid out the
dip stick because the converter is not staying full. High line also
warps channel casting and the case. To keep your ‘keister’ out
of trouble order a few 604-Bush from your distributor now.

Page 14
 604: Limp with Codes 22 and or 24
Install gauge on 2-4 pressure port. Always flat sand channel casting
Get the trans warm. With hard throttle in takes about 3 minutes: Use a sheet
2nd gear pressure should not be over of 60 to 80 grit wet or dry emery. Put a
155, and no more than 104 in 4th. If pres- thin coat of grease on the back side
sure is higher suspect reducer bushing. and stick it to a smooth cement floor.
Then make some hard throttle start Slide channel casting in a circular mo-
offs in manual 1 while watching the 2-4 tion on emery, with both hands, gently,
gauge. until passages are all shiny. Don’t
push too hard that’ll make it uneven.
2-4 should not have ANY pressure in
1st gear. If pressure is present code 22 Since 604 VB does not use a gasket,
or 24 will be set and limp may occur. it’s OK to flat sand the VB also.

Channel
Casting

Cross Leak Area

2-4 clutch oil Low-Rev clutch oil

Low/Rev oil enters 2-4 circuit and 2-4 oil enters the low-rev circuit
closes 2-4 pressure switch in first and closes the low-rev pressure
gear. Controller sees’ the switch switch. Controller sees’ the
closed and sets code 22. switch closed and sets code 24.

Page 15
Part numbers you’ll need
Part Numbers as of August 96
To save waiting buy and stock some of these parts.
One asterik * stock one part.
Two ** stock two parts.
** Snap ring, eyelet 6501812
[Should not be re-used]
*Snap ring flat .061 4377195
[Under UD/OD plate]
**Snap ring taper .068 4377189
[On top of 1st and 2nd UD/OD plate]
*Snap ring taper .077 4567602
[On top of 3rd UD/OD plate]
*Plate kit, 3rd, w/S’ring 4723683
[Fits and upgrades 2nd design drum]
Upgrade 3 plate models to 4 plates:
Retainer, UD/OD [drum] 4505623
Plate kit, 3rd, w/S’ring 4723683

Hub, input 4431622

Pump & Stator support 4567869
OD Hub/planet Kit 4762712

Electrical Parts
*Turbine sensor
**Output sensor
*PRNDL Sw 88-89
PRNDL Sw 90up
Neutral Sw 88-89
Neutral Sw 90up

The production date and engine size are

essential when ordering a new contoller.
We are honored and pleased that you allow
us to join you in repairing this transmission.
Paul, David & Gil

Page 16
 Re-Schedule and Road Test
Prevent clutch damage and 2-3 bind-up and 4-3 bind-up.
IMPORTANT: Before overhaul OD clutches are usually burned and the
controller has increased OD apply rate [CVI to reduce the slippage with
burned clutches. The controller doesn’t know you have installed new
clutches. To prevent a severe 2-3 bindup and clutch damage, you must
Fast re-schedule the controller before road test.
Re-scheduling is done by one of the following methods.
1) “Quick Learn” procedure (with scan tool) AND road test.
2) Fast Reschedule AND road test.

1. A QUICK LEARN CVI re-schedule feature is built into 93 and later

controllers- Later scan tool programs include a “Quick Learn” feature for
re-scheduling CVI . Performing the scanner Quick Learn procedure resets
the CVI to match the flow and clutch clearances of your repair. Quick
Learn saves a bunch of time and puts the job out shifting great. If for any
reason Quick Learn is not available or not accepted by the controller, use
2. Fast Re-schedule on this page.
After Quick Learn or Fast Re-schedule always do road test below.
New controllers have Quick Learn. It’s not cost effective or avisable
to buy a new controller just to get the quick learn feature.
2. FAST RE-SCHEDULE- Wheels off floor, select “OD” position:
1. Apply throttle slowly until speed of 45 to 50 is reached.
2. Lift throttle gently and allow speed to slow to under 20mph.
3. Apply brake, ever so gently, and bring wheels to standstill.
Repeat this over and over, at least 75 times, while noticing the feel of the
2-3 shift. When a light throttle 2-3 shift no longer bogs the engine
[bind-up] the trans is ready for a road test.

ROAD TEST: After Quick Learn or Fast Re-schedule road test as follows,
to match controller to your internal repair. Here’s how.
1. Record speedo milage. In OD accelerate with light throttle to 45 MPH,
then stop normal. Repeat over and over for at least 4 miles.
2. Start off with enough throttle so that vehicle will attain 45/60 MPH with-
out adding more throttle. Do that 10-12 times.
3. At 24-26 MPH floor it to make 3-1 KD, 10 times.
4. At 25-33 MPH just enough throttle to make a 3-2 KD, 10 times.
5. At 45-55 MPH make 4-2 KD, 10 times.
6. At 50-60 MPH add just enough throttle to get 4-3 KD, 20 times.
7. Accelerate from stop with normal throttle to 35 MPH, then lift throttle
and use a small amount of brake to slow down to 20 MPH, 5 times to
check 4-3 coast downshift smoothness. If 4-3 coast is rough repeat #4
and #6 at least 3 times. If trans is not shifting smoothly repeat step #1.
Page 17
 Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch (EMCC)
What is EMCC ?
EMCC can be thought of as “partial Lock-up”. A controlled lockup slip is
commanded by controller. This adds some fuel economy advantages of
Lock-up without the chuggle/jerkiness feel at lower speeds.

When overhauling an EMCC trans is there anything special or differ-

ent that I need to do?
No. There is not really anything different in the trans except for some slight
changes to the valve body. However, once the unit is reinstalled in the ve-
hicle there is a “Break-In” procedure that should be done before road test
or delivery to the customer.

How do I do the “Break-In” procedure?

Using a scan tool, select EMCC from the menu on the scan tool display.
Choose “EMCC RESET” and follow the instructions displayed. When reset,
the break-In strategy in the controller will work Lock-up “easy” for 1000
miles or so to help seat/season the friction plate in the converter.

If I don’t reset the EMCC will the friction be damaged?

Maybe, Maybe not. We know of several rebuilt units that did not have
EMCC reset after rebuild that experienced no failures. However we do
think it is a good idea to reset it. If you have a scan tool with the appropri-
ate software it only takes a minute to reset it and best of all its free!

I don’t have a scan tool. What advice can you give me?
BUY ONE, you will love it. Give us a ring we’ll help you read it.

EMCC DATA
1. Most 92-94 vehicles have EMCC.
2. To have functional EMCC VB. must be 2nd design with retainer at
lockup control valve and controller must have EMCC capability (strategy).
3. A 1st design V.B. can be installed in place of 2nd design to eliminate
EMCC function.
4.Some 92-94 vehicles may not have EMCC. Some controllers were in-
stalled (or reprogrammed) by the dealers to eliminate EMCC.

Pinion factor
If you replace the trans controller on 93 and later vehicles it will be neces-
sary to have the dealer program the speedo input into the new controller.
Speedo input programming is known at the Dealer as “Pinion Factor”.
If a new controller is installed without programming it, the speedometer will
not work. At this time we know of no aftermarket scan tool that will pro-
gram speedo input into a new controller.

Page 18
 Why a Scan Tool
The car always knows what it’s doing. We are the ones who don’t
know. This means that the car should be telling us what to do in-
stead of us trying to tell the car what to do.

A scan tool mulitiplies by at least 16 Keep in mind

times, your ability to perceive and un- A scan tool knows what the engine
derstand a problem. This means a di- RPM, the turbine [input] and output sen-
agnosis will be faster and more accu- sors should read in every gear at any
rate. speed. HOWEVER, a scan tool does not
“A scan tool lets you watch a malfunc- know if a wrong reading and a code is
tion. A scan tool displays a record caused by an electrical problem or by a
[codes] of the malfunction, so even slipping clutch in the trans.
when you didn’t feel it or see it the scan
tool saw it and caught it.
A scan tool transmits data to you but My own truth about scan tools:
doesn’t translate that data into specific It takes 30 minutes, or less, to accu-
meaning. You are the one who will pro- rately trouble shoot a complaint that
cess the data into specific fault and re- took 2-3 hours of hard concentration
pair meaning. with no scan tool. A scan tool makes
fun and games out of what used to
A scan tool quickly points in the direc- be a pain in the butt. Gil
tion of a problem. For most complaints
a scan tool will not be able to tell you
whether the problem is outside [electri-
cal] or inside [clutch or lockup slipping].
Mostly a scan tool can’t tell an inside
problem from an outside problem, but a
scan tool watches both the inside and
outside at the same time so you can
decide if it’s inside or outside.

Scan Tool Setup

1. Connect scan tool to Blue conector under dash.
To fix this trans we need to find out what it is doing right NOW.
This means that we should not take action on codes that could be very old.
But we need to write down all the codes that are available for later evaluation.
See page 5
2. Clear all the existing codes and you are ready for a road test, unless trans
has immediate limp problem.
All data is information.
Data that increases perception is understanding.
Data that increases caring is wisdom.
All other data is just noise.
Gil Younger

Page 19
 604 Code Definitions
Code # Description—Comment
12. Battery was disconnected - This is not really a “trouble code”.
It only provides reference that battery power was lost to controller.

14. EATX Relay Always “ON” - Indicates that when the controller com-
manded the EATX relay to close (furnishing voltage to the solenoid body)
voltage to the controller (pins 16 & 17) was not received. [Page 27]
Likely cause: Defective Relay or Open Fuse Link.

15. EATX Relay Always “OFF” - Indicates when the controller commanded
the EATX relay to open (stopping voltage to the solenoid body) voltage to the
controller (pins 16 & 17) was still present. See page #27.

18. Engine Speed Sensor Circuit - Loss of engine speed signal to control-
ler.
Likely cause: Has new or replacement or wrong controller for engine type.

21-27. Pressure Switch Circuit Errors - Indicates controller has seen

switch(s) opened or closed at the wrong time. See page 27 & 28.

28. Illegal Shifter Position Data - Indicates the controller has seen incorrect
signals from NSS and/or PRNDL switches.
Likely cause: Defective switches or connections. Broken plastic actuator on
VB. Rust/corrosion on VB rooster comb.

31-33 Pressure Switch Circuit Errors - Indicates controller has seen

switch(s) open or closed at wrong time. See page 27 & 28.

37 & 47. Solenoid Switch Valve Stuck - Indicates the controller has not
been able to verify the solenoid switch valve position.
Likely cause: Valve is stuck due to overtightening the VB screws.

38. Lock-up Control Problem - Indicates the controller has commanded

lockup but sees no lockup or lockup is slipping.. See page 30.

39. Speed Ratio Error - Controller has seen incorrect ratio caused by slip-
page, sensor error or bad connection. Page 5-22-23-24.

Page 20
 604 Code Definitions
41-44. Solenoid Circuit Errors - Indicates the controller has seen incor-
rect ELECTRICAL OPERATION of shift solenoids. See page 27 .

46. 3-4 Shift Abort - Indicates the controller has seen an incorrect input
speed change during the 3-4 upshift.
Likely cause #1: Before overhaul - Broken snap-ring in input drum or
burned O/D clutches. See Pages 10.
Likely cause #2: After overhaul - Missing/cut/wrong seals in input assem-
bly or defective solenoid body, checkball locations.

50-54. Speed Ratio Errors - Controller has seen incorrect ratio in a

particluar gear caused by slip or wrong sensor data. See page 22 & 23.

56. Input Speed Sensor Signal - Indicates the controller has seen
VERY RAPID AND EXTREME speed sensor signal variations.
Likely cause: Input sensor or connection. See pages 5 & 25.

57. Output Speed Sensor Signal - Indicates the controller has seen
VERY RAPID AND EXTREME speed sensor signal variations.
Likely cause: Output sensor or connection. See pages 5 & 25.

61-64. Inadequate Clutch Volume Codes - Indicates the controller has

seen insufficient time for clutch fill or apply rate.
Likely causes: High Pressure: Pages 3 & 14, Accumulators installed
backwards: Page 13 points 7-8. Tight clutch clearance(s): Page 10.
Code 62 only - 2/4 Clutch return spring missing or installed upside down.
Code Specifics:
61 Inadequate L/R Clutch Volume
62 Inadequate 2/4 Clutch Volume
63 Inadequate O/D Clutch Volume
64 Inadequate U/D Clutch Volume

Page 21
 604Limp Mode [2nd & Reverse ONLY]
With one or more these of codes: 39,51,52,53,54,56,57
Limp Mode is the KILLER COMPLAINT both BEFORE and AFTER repair.
To prevent this complaint during and after your repair requires exacting inter-
nal assembly [page 10 &11] and careful attention to electrical causes.
Limp with gear ratio error codes can be:
A. Electrical
B. Slipping clutch.
Occasional or intermittent limp is the hardest job to trouble shoot, but is not
hard to fix. The real difficulty is to quickly find out whether it is a trans problem
or an electrical problem. The following pages describe electrical and trans
causes and fixes.
Read all before road testing/troubleshooting vehicles with codes listed.

Code definitions/descriptions
CODE Means controller has seen:
39 Wrong ratio caused by trans slippage, or wrong RPM
signal from a speed sensor.
51 Slippage or faulty speed sensor signal in 1st gear only
52 Slippage or faulty speed sensor signal in 2nd gear only
53 Slippage or faulty speed sensor signal in 3rd gear only
54 Slippage or faulty speed sensor signal in 4th gear only
56 Input speed sensor fault
57 Output speed sensor fault

Codes/Limp Mode Troubleshooting

A. Electrical problems
The common electrical cause and easiest to check and fix, is wrong data from
speed sensors, which 90% of the time is a bad connection to the sensors and
ocasionally a bad connector to the controller. Check/fix the connections first.

OUTPUT & Turbine Sensor Complaints:

Immediate limp, under 12 mph. Occasional limp at all different speeds with no
apparent cause. Upshifts delayed. Downshifts at the wrong time for no rea-
son and may go limp. [Sets code 39 and/or 51 to 58.]
CAUSE: Most often the connection or the wires are bad, not the sensors.
1. Replace connector wires 4419478.
2. Replace the output sensor.
3. Still has problem. Replace input sensor.

Page 22
 Limp Mode Codes: 39,51,52,53,54,56,57 (Cont’d)
Limp Mode Troubleshooting
A few words on code 39
Limp with 39 can be one of the most difficult problems to ACCURATELY
troubleshoot. The most important thing to have when working on this
code is patience. To know WHERE to look for causes of limp/39 you
must know WHEN limp and code 39 were set. A road test after limp and
39 set to confirm a suspect problem will take at least 20 minutes, or go-
ing to limp at least three times. The trick is, you need to know what
was happening when the controller goes to limp or sets code.
** Wrong sensor data will cause limp and set a code in various gears, at
various speeds and loads. If it goes to limp in all different gears, speeds
and loads it is sensors or connections at sensors and/or at the controller,
and once in a while a bad controller. [If in doubt swap controller]
** A slipping clutch can only cause limp or set a code when that clutch is
in use. So if vehicle only goes to limp in a particular gear, over and over
again, you can bet it is a slip [internal] and not electrical.

SLIPPING CLUTCH or WRONG SENSOR DATA

Early controllers would only set code 39.
Later controllers tell which gear is slipping.
Code: 51=1st 52=2nd 53=3rd 54= 4th.
These codes are set when the controller has seen a slip or a gear ratio
that it did not command. Gear ratio is tracked by the speed sensors, so
a slipping clutch or connections or bad sensor is the cause of these
codes.
For example in third gear the trans ratio is 1 to 1, so the turbine and
output sensors should have the same reading within a few RPM..
In third lockup, the engine RPM and both sensors should read the
same within a few RPM. [Reread ** above]

Typical code 39/Limp Mode incident

COMPLAINT: Goes to limp mode above 40 mph, or downshifts to 3rd
without moving throttle: And you’re certain the output sensors have good
connection because you fixed and checked them [page 5].
Explanation: The OD clutches are slipping during 4th at 40-85 mph,
especially on an upgrade, or during acceleration above 45 mph. Sensors
“read” the slip. The controller then instructs a downshift to 3rd or opens
EATX relay to limp. [May also set code(s) 36,39,46,53, or 54]
More explanation: Inspection will often reveal burned OD frictions, or just
slightly burned OD frictions. Altho burned friction allows the complaint,
you need to fix the cause of the slipping that allowed them to burn.

Page 23
 Limp Mode Codes: 39,51,52,53,54,56,57 (Cont’d)
Limp Mode Troubleshooting

Finding the CAUSE for Limp/39 gets easier when you KNOW what was
happening just BEFORE trans went to LIMP.

Here’s a few conditions/causes to watch for when limp code 39 occurs:

1. Trans Cold
A. Goes to neutral during 1-2 shift and then won’t move.
Restart and try again...same thing 2 or 3 times then works OK until vehi-
cles sits a long time and gets cold.
CAUSE: Hard or cut 2-4 clutch piston seals.
B. Won’t move cold and/or goes to limp 2 or 3 times cold.
CAUSE: Underdrive piston worn or cut seal. SK® prevents this.

2. Trans Hot
A. Limp after fast stop.
CAUSE: Low/reverse piston seals hard or undersize, low reverse piston
housing gasket has shrunk and/or low reverse accumulator ring leak.
SK® Kit and “D” seals prevents this complaint.
B. Goes limp on light acceleration in 4th @ 42-47 MPH or after driving
above 50 MPH, then goes to limp when slowing down below 45 MPH.
CAUSE: Slipping OD clutch.
C. Tries to shift 3-4 a couple of times then goes to limp.
CAUSE: OD clutch slipping.
D. Goes to limp after driving in 4th and then slowing down with limp oc-
curring @ 26 to 18 MPH, but not above 30MPH. May also notice occa-
sional 26 to 18 MPH harsh 4-3 coast downshift or slight neutral condition
between 28 and 18 MPH.
CAUSE: Underdrive piston worn and/or seal damage.
See page 9 for complete explanation.
E. Goes limp at different times. Sometimes on take off, sometimes in
4th on lift throttle, or keeps going to limp (w/code 39) at all different times
with no obvious pattern.
CAUSE: Electrical connection or speed sensing problem-input, or output.
SOLUTION: Check/fix connections at controller, solenoid and sensors.
If problem persists swap controller for a road test.

Page 24
 604: Controller Connector Pin Identification

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60

1 ....18/LG.......PRNDL 21-40...........................Not Used

2 ....18/TN/BK....Back-up lamp relay 41 ....20/BR/YL....Neutral Start
3 ....14/VT.......Neutral Start Switch 42 ....18/VT.......PRNDL
4 ....20/PK/BK....Bus- 43 ....20/VT/BR....Bus +
5 ....20/WT/BK.....Bus Bias A Body 44 ....20/WT/BK....Bus Bias A Body Only
6 ....18/TN/YL........2.5 Turbo Only 45 ....18/GY/BK....Engine Speed Signal
7 ...........................Not Used 46 .........................Not Used
8 ....14/YL...........Crank Signal *47 ....18/YL/BK....2-4 Pressure Switch
9 ....18/OR/DB....OD Pressure Switch 48 ..........................Not Used
10 .......................Not Used 49 ...........................Not Used
*11 ....14/DB........Ignition *50 ....18/DG....L-R Pressure Switch
12 ....18/OR/DB....Throttle Position Sensor 51 ....18/BK/LB....T.P.S. Ground
*13 ....18/DB/BK....Speed Sensor Ground *52 ....18/RD/BK...Turbine Speed Sensor
*14 ....18/LG/WT....Output Speed Sensor 53 ....18/BK/YL....Signal Ground
*15 ....18/LG.......EATX Relay Coil Power 54 ....18/BK/YL....Signal Ground
*16 ....16/RD.......EATX Relay Output 55 ...........................Not Used
*17 ....16/RD.......EATX Realy Output *56 ....16/RD...........Battery Feed
18 ......................Not Used *57 ....18/BK/RD....Power Ground
*19 ....18/WT.......2-4 Solenoid Driver *58 ....18/BK/RD....Power Ground
*20 ....18/LB.......L/R Solenoid Driver *59 ....18/PK.......UD Solenoid Driver
* Critical pins, check eyelets for snug fit. *60 ....18/BR.......OD Solenoid Driver

ID Solenoid Connector
3 4 5 6
1 .2-4 Pressure Switch
2 1 8 7
2. L/R Pressure Switch
3. OD Pressure Switch
4. Relay Output Red (12 Volts)
5. UD Solenoid
6. OD Solenoid
7. L/R Solenoid
8. 2-4 Solenoid Before further testing or replacing any parts check eyelets
for snug fit with .089 [#43] drill and resize as needed.

Page 25
 Turbine and output speed
sensor circuit. See Page 5 2.3-2.5V ON
BOTH BUS LINES
CCD BUS
Target Idle
Engine Temp
Ambient Temp
Brake Switch
Engine RPM
Cruise Control

Fuse Links

A-604
Controller
Ignition
Switch Run Run/Crank Crank

Neutral
Safety PIn 4
Switch 7 L/R SOL
8 2-4 SOL
Solenoid Pack
6 OD SOL See26 & 30
Back-up 5 UD SOL
Lamp

2
1
3

Page 26
 Turn Key limp
With No Codes Or codes 41-44, 21-27, 31-33
Step 1 The most common cause for these codes is a BAD CONNECTION
AT THE SOLENOID BODY. Always check and resize terminals in solenoid
body connector first. An .089" drill bit should fit snug when inserted into the
harness terminals. ONLY AFTER the terminals have been resized and
checked for fit should any other work/testing be done.
Step2 EATX relay provides voltage For codes 41-44 go to step 3
to the trans controller. If the relay Codes 21-27 and 31-33 See page 2 8.
doesn’t work neither will the control-
ler. Step 3
Checking EATX Relay Checking Solenoid and Controller
[Key OFF & ON doesn’t correct Remove controller connector.
limp. Starts off in 2nd and lever Remove harness cover to expose wires.
will not downshift trans. Goes to Backprobe wire 19 with a safety pin.
limp without the vehicle moving]. Install controller connector.
Connect volt meter to safety pin and other
Don’t concern yourself with internals end of volt meter to ground.
and speed sensors, the problem is
connections. solenoid pack, relay Have someone turn ignition switch ON.
controller, OR wires.
With ignition ON the volt meter must read
Remove connector to controller. battery voltage at terminals 19-20-59-60 for
Key on, Must have 12 volts to pins 11 at least 3 seconds. If battery voltage is not
and 56 If not suspect fuse links. present at all four terminals controller will
Check the eyelets in the controller default to Limp and set code.
connector with .043 to .046 [3/64]
drill. Drill must fit snug into all No voltage to pin 19 Code 42 2-4 solenoid.
eyelets. Resize as needed. No voltage to pin 20 Code 41 L/R solenoid.
Smell into the connector cavity of No voltage to pin 59 Code 44 UD solenoid.
controller. If it smells bad, it is bad.
Reconnect the controller. No voltage to pin 60 Code 43 OD solenoid.
Find the backup light relay and EATX
trans solenoid relay, on the firewall,
fender,(next to/near controller) or in 1. If any wire, 19-20-59-60, does not show
the engine compartment fuse box. battery voltage, that wire has a bad con-
The backup light and trans relays are nection at the solenoid pack or open/short
identical, so make sure the backup in the wiring or solenoid pack.
lights are working and swap it with [See page 30 for solenoid circuit test].
the trans relay. If the trans still has 2. If none of them show battery voltage.
turn key limp verify the relay opera- Suspect EATX relay not furnishing voltage
tion by checking for 12 volts at pin 4 to pin 4 at solenoid pack. If they all show
at the solenoid connector for at least battery voltage for a moment and it still has
3 seconds when key is turned on. If turn key and sets one or more solenoid
voltage is present the problem is: codes, swap the controller.
1. Electrical connection to Solenoid Bad controller and poor connections are the
body or bad solenoid body. cause of codes 41-44 more often than sole-
2. Electrical connection to controller noid body.
or bad controller.
Page 27
 Codes 21-27 and 31-33
(Pressure Switch Codes)
ONLY AFTER THE TERMINALS HAVE BEEN
RESIZED AND CHECKED FOR FIT (PAGE 2 8 STEP
1) SHOULD ANY OTHER WORK/TESTING BE
Code: 21-27 and 31-33 will not cause turn key limp. If you have turn key
limp go back to page 28.
Codes 21-27 and 31-33 are almost never due to faulty controller, and usu-
ally not caused by a defective solenoid body.
In limp mode it is normal for scanner to read switches as LO or CLOSED
because there is no voltage feed to the solenoid body.
It is common for pressure switch codes to be set after o/haul or service due
to air sucked into pump. Just cycle ignition and try again. May take more
than 1 restart to get air worked out of system while checking fluid level.
Pinpointing Causes for Codes 21-27 & 31-33
There are basically 3 possible causes for these codes:
A. Bad Connections - resize solenoid body connector terminals - Bottom
page 26
B. Crossleaks in trans tripping switches - See Page 15
C. Defective Components —Solenoid Body, Controller, wires, etc.

Quick Testing Componenets:

1. Turn key ON, don’t start engine. Must not be in limp mode. Scan tool
display should show all switches “OPEN” or “HI”. If all read “CLOSED” or
“LO” it IS in limp or there is no voltage to terminal 4 of the solenoid body.
Go to page 6 immediate limp: Step by Step Correction.
If only 1 reads “LO” or “CLOSED” then there is an ELECTRICAL PROBLEM
with that circuit—not a hydraulic problem.

2. Disconnect solenoid body connector. With the Key on and the scan tool
under the hood use a jumper wire to apply 12V to eyelets 1,2&3 of solenoid
body connector, one at a time. Watch pressure switch displays on scan
tool.
If displays change from “CLOSED” or “LO” to “OPEN” or “HI” when 12V is
touched to terminals, controller and wiring wiring to the controller is OK.
If scan tool display dosen’t change when 12V is touched to terminals
1,2,and 3 the wiring is open or the controller is defective. Jump 12V to pins
9,47, and 50 at controller. If displays change now there is an open in wir-
ing. No change=bad controller (rare). If jumper wire sparks a lot or gets
hot when touched to terminals 1,2, and 3 there is a short to ground. Unplug
controller-try again. If wire no longer sparks a lot the controller is bad. If
wire still sparks a lot inspect wiring for short to ground, especially
near/around front mount. Scan tool will not read switches with controller
disconnected but you can still tell if the wire is sparking badly or getting hot
from a short.

Page 28
Bench Test: Solenoid Pressure Switches
1. Connect one lead of ohmmeter to ground on solenoid body housing.

2. Connect the other lead to Pin #1 on solenoid body connector. Ohm me-
ter should show “open” (infinity). Now using a rubber tip blow-gun blow in
hole #1 and ohm meter should sweep to 3 ohms or less.

3. Repeat this procedure on the other 2 switches by connecting positive

lead to Pin #2 and blow in hole 2, then to Pin #3 and blow in hole 3.

4. If solenoid bodys are taken apart for cleaning DO NOT subject rubber
switch diaphrams to cleaning solvents. They may swell and keep the
switch closed all the time.

2 1 8 7

3 4 5 6

#1 #2 #3
2-4 Switch L/R Switch OD Switch

Page29
 604/606/42LE
No Lock-up, lockup slip, and/or code 38
Electrical, Hydraulic or Converter?
There is a big difference between: Lockup can be soft. If you don’t feel
No lock-up WITHOUT code 38 stored lockup add a little throttle and touch
and no lock-up WITH code 38 stored. the brake pedal. If engine speeds
No lock-up WITH code 38 is the up slightly then you know lockup was
most common. To fix either, first de- applied.
termine which one the trans has. [Remember when road testing that if
code 38 sets controller will only com-
No lockup without code 38 stored: mand lockup 1 time per ignition cy-
This is not a trans problem. It is a cle, so it may be necessary to turn
sensor or input problem, like the the key OFF and ON between each
brake switch is stuck ON, TPS is try for lockup.]
faulty, low water level, thermostat, If system is working correctly the
engine temp not high enough etc. pressure falls quickly from 80-90 psi
This means the controller has not to 45-30 where it will pause momen-
received the input signals essential to tarily and then continue down to 0.
command lockup apply. If the pressure drops from 80-90
A scanner lets you quickly look at down to 45-30 the controller, sole-
these inputs to see what values are noid and valve body are working cor-
wrong. A scan tool is also helpful for rectly.
seeing when and if the controller If the pressure starts down prop-
sends the command for lockup apply. erly but never gets to 0, there is a
leak past the lock-up plate or the
No lock-up with code 38 stored: rings on the input shaft are leaking.
This means the controller has com- Pull the unit for inspection of input
manded lockup apply but it either shaft, rings, stator tube, or converter
failed to apply or is slipping. replacement.
The BIG question: Is it the con- After the trans is in lock-up [gauge
verter, VB, or pump/input shaft? is 0] add a little throttle to put some
Find out quick with a pressure gauge. load on the lockup plate, but not
enough for the controller to unlock
Install pressure gauge at lockup the converter. It will take a few tries
OFF port. Clear codes with scanner to see just how much throttle you
or by removing the controller connec- can give it without unlocking.
tor for one minute. If the gauge stays at 0 when you
Road Test- Gauge will read about add throttle, and it sets code 38, the
70-90 PSI when lockup is off. With converter lock-up plate is slipping.
light throttle let trans attempt to make If pump bushing to hub clearance
lockup. is over .007 replace bushing. If
clearance is OK replace converter.

Page 30
 Bad or No 3-4 Shift: Code 46
Code 46 sets and aborts 4th when controller sees a 3-4 slip, cutloose,
or bind-up.
BEFORE OVERHAUL: On vehicles with lots of miles on them this
complaint is usually burned O/D clutches or a broken snap-ring.
AFTER OVERHAUL: Vehicles with 3-4-3-4-3 shuttle shift or no
4th, or bind-up in 4th along with code 46 can have several causes.
Here’s what to do:
1. Install gauge on UD port. Accelerate quickly to 42mph and then lift
throttle to allow 3-4 shift with no throttle.
2. Watch the gauge on UD port. It must fall quickly to near zero
when the 3-4 occurs or tries to occur. It gauge stays high and trans
has bind-up suspect ball in VB in wrong position. See page 15.
If the gauge drops, but doesn’t go below 10 psi then there is a
crossleak due to wrong, cut or missing rubber in input assembly, or
the solenoid body is bad or the VB and channel casting is warped
badly.
Swap the solenoid body, make sure the case and small plate under
the solenoid body are clean and flat...try again. Still have problem?
Flat sand VB and channel casting. Still has problem? Remove trans.
Check stator rings input assembly seals.
If the gauge drops quickly to zero but still sets code 46 of has bind
in 4th, no 4th or 3-4 runaway suspect assembly problem.
See pages 10 for correct pressure plate and snap rings.
Remember: The controller will attempt the 3-4 upshift 3 times before
it sets code 46. This feels like 3-4-3-4-3 shuttle shifts.
A crossleak or defective solenoid body can cause very gentle
3-4-3-4-3 shuttle shifts. May be so gentle you can barely even feel it
attempt the shift, then sets code 46.
Code 46 alone will not cause limp mode - but vehicle will not at-
tempt to 3-4 upshift again until the vehicle has again used 2nd gear.
No 4th & Lockup with Late shifts—No Codes
When controller is not receiving data from the TPS through the BUS cir-
cuits, the controller commands shifts about the same speed as if throttle
was wide open and will not command lockup.
Check connections to TPS. With key ON check voltage coming to TPS.
With key ON check voltage increase and decrease when moving throttle.
If TPS is OK controller is not getting reading through BUS circuit.
Disconnect and re-connect controller connector and engine computer
connections and look for corrosion or moisture.
Wrong controller will not read BUS circuits correctly.

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 Quick Complaint Summary
1. Intermittent Limp or hot only limp: 7. No lockup: [See page 30]
QUALIFY: After restart the trans will CAUSE 1: Switch valve stuck outboard.
upshift and will downshift with the lever. [Don’t impact the valve body]
a. Goes limp above 35 mph: CAUSE 2: Converter. Attach gauge to
CAUSE: OD clutch slipping. lockup port. Must feel lockup when
b. Goes limp when stopping or during pressure drops below 20 psi.
start off. OK above 25 mph:
CAUSE: Output sensor or leak at 8. Delayed reverse: [Forward is OK]
L/R accm, housing or piston seals. Disconnect controller and try reverse.
If reverse is OK, replace PRNDL switch.
2. Immediate limp mode:
After restart goes limp before 12mph. 9. 1-2 Shudder or 1-2 Neutral Cold:
CAUSE: Output sensor—too long. 2-4 piston seals hard or laid down and will
Solenoid pack or Sensor connections not seal cold. New “D” seals have been a
or wrong controller, or connections to it. great fix for these complaints.
3. Spinup or short neutral on start off 10. Hard or shudder 1-2: worse with more
or just before stopping, OR, neutral and throttle. Page 15 & 14 high line press.
clank when stopping or right after.
CAUSE: Leak—L/R accm or piston. 11. 2-1 coast down bindup (Quick Learn
will fix it for 2 weeks). Leak at low/rev
4. COLD Forward delay and/or 4-3 clutch piston rubber. Use “D” type seals.
coast clunk. May have 39 and go limp.
CAUSE: Worn or ridged UD piston 12. No 1st gear—Starts in 2nd: Not in
and/or or cut inner UD rubber. limp and will shift to third and 4th.
CORRECTION: Special seal in Shift
Kit® fixes and prevents this complaint. CAUSE: Switch valve stuck inboard.
[Don’t impact the valve body]
5. Turn Key limp: [Goes to limp
without moving. See page 27] 13. Delay forward and reverse:
a. Wrong controller. Check hot idle pressures at UD, L/R
b. Solenoid pack connection and Rev tap. Pressures should all be
c. EATX relay within 10 psi of each other and not less
d. Bad connection at terminal 56 than 55psi at the UD tap. If ALL are low
e. Fuse link suspect pump.

6. Delay into forward gear when HOT: 14. Rough 4-3 coast downshift:
CAUSE: Worn or ridged UD piston a. Controller not re-scheduled.
and/or or cut inner UD rubber. b. UD accm piston upside down.
CORRECTION: Special seal in Shift c. UD piston seal leaking.
Kit® fixes and prevents this complaint. d. Hard or low capacity UD clutches.
Worn stator support or bushing in input [If this is the cause there will be a
hub. Wrong lip seal in inner drum. If forward delay of 1-3/4 to 2 seconds
idle pressure at UD tap is under 58psi, with a tail bump.]
may need pump/stator and input hub. COMMENT: An earlier type controller will
often correct rough coast 4-3 downshift.

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