Fundamentals of Textiles: Learning Objectives
Fundamentals of Textiles: Learning Objectives
4 Fundamentals
of textiles
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
4.2 Manufacturing Of
Fibres
Fibres may be classified based on
the origin and chemical type as natural
fibres and man-made fibres. Table-1
describes the classification of fibres.
Natural fibres are taken from plant and The cotton fibre is a long cell-
animal sources. Cotton, Silk and wool are made up of countless cellulose molecules.
Classification of fibres
Vegetable fibres Animal fibres Mineral fibres Cellulosic Modified Non Minerals
(Cellulosic) (Protein) (Asbestos) (Viscose) Cellulosic Cellulosic (Carbon)
(Acetate) (Nylon)
Animal Animal
Hair Secretion
(Wool) (Silk)
Bale breaking
Spinning
ii. Properties:
Lustre : Low
Tenacity/ Strength : Medium
Elastic Recovery : Low
Elongation : 7%
Resilience : Low
Carding Density : 1.54 g/cm3
iii. Uses:
Silk thread and silk saree
zzCotton is the most widely used fibre
because it is inexpensive, easy-care, Silk can be cultivated or it is found
high absorbency, excellent launder in forest as wild silk. Cultivated silk is
ability and good colour fastness. the Mulberry silk. The common wild silk
zzIt is not only used for apparel but varieties are Eri, Tasar and Muga silk. The
also for household and industrial process of cultivating silkworm for silk
applications. production is called as sericulture.
i. Manufacturing process:
The earliest fragments of Once the raw wool reaches the mills,
wool fabric have been found in Egypt is has to pass through many processes
but Mesopotamia is the birth place of before it finally emerges as woolen cloth.
wool. Sorting, Scouring, Carbonizing, Carding,
Spinning, Bleaching, Dyeing, Weaving,
Knitting and Finishing.
Wool can be sheared from the
living animal or pulled from the hide after a) Sorting: When the bales are
the animal has been slaughtered for its meat. opened, the fleece is graded. It may
Sheared wool is called Fleece or Clip wool be separated into sections such as
and wool taken from hides of slaughtered shoulders, sides etc.
Polyester
i. Manufacturing process:
Nylon Thread
zzPolyester is made by reacting a
Hosiery: used in shops for things such dihydric alcohol with a dicarboxylic
as socks, tights and stockings. acid.
Draperies: Cloth hanging or arranged zzAs the acid and alcohol are
in folds polymerized, they are extruded from
the polymerizing vessel in the form of
B. Polyester a ribbon.
Polyester is sometimes referred to as zzThe ribbon is cut into small chips;
the “workhose” fibre of the industry. the chips are diced and conveyed to
The filament form of the fibre has been a hopper from which they are fed to
said to be the most versatile fibre and melt spinning tank.
the staple form has been called the “big zzThe hot solution is forced through
mixer” because it can be blended with so spinnerets, and solidifies into fibre
many other fibres, contributing its good form on contact with cool air.
properties to the blend without destroying
zzIt is stretched while hot, the stretching
the desirable properties of the other fibre.
contributes strength to the fibre and
Its versatility in blending is one of the
controls elongation characteristics.
unique advantage of polyester. One of
the important physical changes has been zzThe greater the amount of molecular
that of changing from the standard round orientation obtained during this
shape to a trilobal cross-section that strengthening step, the stronger the
gives the fibre silk-like properties. The fibre and lower the elongation.
4.4 Yarn Making various sizes and textures, and also vary
in other characteristics. Performance, end
Yarns play an important role in the use, and fabric care are affected by these
fabric manufacturing process . Yarn is yarn characteristics.
“a generic term for a continuous strand
of textile fibers, filaments, or material in 4.4.1 Yarn Twist
a form suitable for knitting, weaving, or
otherwise intertwining to form a textile Yarns are twisted to hold the fibres together.
fabric. Yarns are also used for products The number of twists per unit length is
such as sewing and embroidery thread, used to measure twist. Yarn twist can be
string, and rope. Yarns are produced in broadly divided by number of twists: none
Spun yarns are composed of short ii. Ply yarns: These are produced by
staple fibres, or long filament fibres that twisting two or more single yarns.
have been cut into short staple fibres. Each strand of single yarn is referred
Spun yarns may contain fibres of the same to as a ply. Thus, four single yarns
type or a blend of different fibres. The twisted together would form a four-
characteristics of spun yarn depend on ply yarn.
the amount of twist given to the fibres iii. Cord yarns: They are produced by
during spinning. A fairly high degree of twisting two or more ply yarns.
twist produces strong yarn, a low twist
iv. Rope yarns: They are produced by
produces softer, more lustrous yarn and a
twisting two or more cord yarns.
very tight twist produces crepe yarn.
UNIT 4 Fundamentals of textiles 104
Embossing
Calendaring
iv. Heat Setting: Mostly thermoplastic
fibres are given heat setting finish
to produce fabrics with wrinkle Permanent Design -Pleats
resistant, good elastic recovery, and
give relative permanent design detail v. Tentering: Tentering is a
such as pleats, planned creases and mechanical finish where the fabric
surface embossing. The fibres are is held horizontally by each selvedge
exposed to a certain temperature between pins. There is a tenter
called the glass transition temperature frame which moves with a speed
(Tg temperature) where they are slightly higher than the speed with
shaped. If at any later period the fabric
which the chains holding the fabric
is exposed to temperature higher
are moving. This process,straightens
than Tg temperature the fabric may
the fabric which involves many
take a new shape. So fabrics should
finishing processes like mercerizing,
be laundered or dried under the
resin finishing and drying.
Tg temperature.
Tentering
vi. Mercerization: Mercerization
is a chemical finish mostly done
on cotton fabrics. The fabric is
immersed in 16 – 27 percent of Sizing
sodium hydroxide and fed between
viii. Weighting: Weighting is a process
rollers for a specific period of time.
applied to silk fabrics. After removal
Then it is passed on a tendering
of gum i.e. degumming, the silk
frame to have specified dimensions.
fabric, becomes very soft. To make
At last it is washed and dried. This
the silk fabric heavy and stiff the
process causes the fabric to have
Federal Trade Commission ruled that
increased lustre, improves dying
silk fabric can be given stiffness by
characteristic and strength.
addition of 10% stannous chloride a
metallic salt. If this 10% exceeds very
high the silk fabric tends to crack
and split. Weighted silk has body and
density but they are not durable and
can be damaged by sunlight, air and
perspiration.
Unmercerized Mercerized
ix. Functional finishes are those which
vii. Sizing: Sizing is a process of stiffening alter, improve or change the behavior
materials to yarns or fabrics. Sizes or service characteristics of the fabric
is composed of starch or resin. and produce certain properties.
Starch is applied mostly to cellulose Example: A durable press fabric, a
fabrics to improve its luster and to water proof fabric.
add strength. Resin when applied
x. Water Proofing: Water Proof finishes
reacts with the fibre molecules and
are those that prevent water entering
chemical change occurs in the fibre.
the fabrics. These fabrics do not allow
Starch is applied to the fabric which
air also to enter and thus not suitable
then passes between rollers that pad
for wearing apparel. Earlier, rubber,
109 Fundamentals of textiles UNIT 4
4.7.1.
Types of Dyes Examples: Nylon, Silk, Wool
Stencil Printing
Duplex Print
iv. Photographic Prints: Photographic
prints are made similar to that used
in making photograph. A negative
is placed on the fabric and light is
transmitted to it and the design is
developed. The fabric is washed
and the design is as permanent as a
photo.
iii. Duplex Prints: Duplex print are v. Transfer Printing: Transfer printing
produced by modified direct roller involves heat and pressure. The dye
print equipment. The design is made in the desired design, is first printed
by a machine, which is set up to print onto a special paper. The paper is
on both the face and back of the laid on the fabric and the design is
fabric. transferred by sublimation. The dye
Dipping
ii. Sponging: The part of material from
which the stain has to be removed
is placed on blotting paper and the
reagent is applied with a sponge
on the stained area and scrubbed
gently.
Steaming
This activity enables the students to enrich themselves with the fibre cotton.
It helps them understand about the cotton plant as well as the cotton fibre. It
contains more facts also
Steps:
zzType the URL link given below in the browser or scan the QR code. A
page opens with OPTIONS on the top. When you click the games it shows
four options. All worthy with many informations on cotton.
zzFor example if you click drag and drop the game will display .
zzA picture of the scientist will be there in the centre with the question at
the bottom and two option at either side of the scientist. When we drag
the scientist to the correct option it shows ‘reveal the answer’ when we
click that we can check whether the answer is correct or not. Then for next
question have to click “Next”
zzThree more options are True or False, Choose the best and quiz time. Try
all and enjoy.
URL:
h t t p : / / w w w. c o t t o n c a m p u s . o r g / C C - U S -
Environmental-Science/CC-Habitat/