Home Science (Eng) Ch-11
Home Science (Eng) Ch-11
Home Science (Eng) Ch-11
11
Notes
FABRIC FINISHES
Marie-Ann and some of her friends had joined a hobby class to learn fabric painting.
While evaluating individual articles, they noticed that the colours of some of the articles
were not uniform despite the fact the same colour had been used to paint all of them.
When they asked the instructor about it, they were told that the cotton fabrics with
uneven colour-spread had been given some finish which needed to be washed before
using fabric painting colours. What does this mean? Do colours behave differently on
different types of materials? You have learnt about starching and heard terms like dyeing,
printing, mercerization, etc. What are these processes and how do these influence the
functions of fabric? In this lesson we will try to answer these and many similar questions.
OBJECTIVES
After studying this lesson you will be able to do the following:
• explain the meaning and importance of finishes given to fabrics;
• classify various finishes according to their properties;
• describe the effect of the application of basic finishes on fabrics;
• enumerate special finishes and explain the ways of employing them;
• elaborate the methods of dyeing and printing;
• evaluate different techniques of decorative dyeing and block printing on fabrics.
When a fabric is given a finish, it is known as a finished textile. But it is not a must that
all the textile-products are finished before use. When no finish is applied on the textiles,
Notes these are termed as gray goods or unfinished textiles. This does not mean that the
fabric is gray in colour. It implies that no finishing treatment has been given to it.
Gray goods lack customer appeal and you will not Gray goods are the term
like to buy these for your dress or shirt. Can you say used for fabrics that come
why? Yes, you are right. It is because in the absence directly from the loom and
of any finish, fabrics has dull and shabby appearance. are used as such. These are
not actually gray in colour
Different colours or prints on fabrics are also finishes but are ‘unfinished’.
and these make fabrics look attractive.
Finish includes any general treatment given to clean and iron fabrics and
create exclusive variations of them by using chemical treatments, dyeing,
printing, etc. to make fabric attractive and appealing.
Some major differences between ‘Unfinished and finished fabrics’ are as follows:
Unfinished / Gray fabric Finished fabric
Dull looking, available only in natural Lusterous, attractive, available in different
colours- off white, brown, black, etc. tints and shades of colours, prints, etc.
Wrinkled, stained, with broken Smooth and wrinkle-free, no defects on the
threads, uneven in width, etc. surface, even width, free from stains, etc.
Relatively less expensive. Cost of fabric depends upon the type of the
fibre along with the number and type of
finishes applied.
Lack customer appeal, are purchased Customers get attracted and buy.
only for rough work, backing,
packaging, etc.
Semi Permanent
Durable
ACTIVITY 11.1
Carry out this experiment and note your observations
Take two fabric pieces of 4// x 4// size of white colour, one of theses should be new and
the other old and washed. Put both the pieces of fabric in water. What do you observe?
The old one will sink faster because it is more absorbent as it has no finishes or starch
on the surface. The new fabric will first float on the water. Gradually water penetrates
through the starch applied on the fabric surface, and the fabric sinks.
(ii) Bleaching
At home you use lemon, milk, curd and facial bleach to remove sun-tan. A similar
treatment is also given to fibres. Many a times natural fibres like cotton, silk and wool
are available in pale / light brown colour. Suppose you have to paint some thing in light
pink colour, unfortunately the brush was not washed properly and had remains of brown
in it. What do you think will happen? You will not get the pink you wanted. This becomes
a problem as light shades of dyes do not come out well on such fibre colours. To get
exact light shade of the colour, the existing colour has to be removed. Bleaching is a
chemical treatment given to fibres, yarns or fabric to remove paleness or colour
and make them white. Suitable bleaching agents such as hydrogen peroxide for
protein fibres and sodium hypochlorite for cottons, are used. Man-made fibres do not
need bleaching. Fabrics have to be carefully bleached as bleach can harm the fabric if
used in high concentration.
ACTIVITY 11.2
• Take the starched cotton fabric. Try to look through it. You will notice that light
can not pass through the fabric surface.
• Place a black sheet of paper on table. Hold the starched fabric in your hands and
rub it.
Starch particles will fall on the black paper in the form of white powder. Now hold this
fabric against light. Yes, you can see light through the open spaces in the weave.
Based on your experience above, answer the questions given below. Give reason.
– Will you use this fabric as a fall for a saree?
– Will you use this fabric to make a shirt?
– Will you use this fabric as a backing for a blouse?
(iv) Calendering
Why do you iron the garments at home? It is to remove wrinkles and make them look
better. This is the simplest and the common finish used to improve the looks of any gray
or finished fabric. Similarly, through the process of Calendering or industrial ironing
a fabric is passed through a series of smooth hot rollers to remove wrinkles and
to make it smooth. It makes the fabric smooth and lustrous, thereby improving its
appearance.
ACTIVITY 11.3
Sujata was very angry and disappointed because a printed cotton suit she had bought
so fondly had shrunk so much that it did not fit her at all. Before buying she had asked
the shopkeeper repeatedly if the material was shrink proof. The shopkeeper had
assured her that it was
Let us see if the same happens in this experiment
Take a gray cotton fabric of 10// x10//. Dip it in water for at least 3-4 hours. Dry and
iron it. Measure all sides of the sample again. You will notice a change i.e. reduction in
the measurements because the fabric has shrunk.
Discuss the following in a Personal Contact Programme or with friends:
• Best way to ensure that the material of the suit is shrinkproof.
• What else does one need to check about the quality before buying the material?
• Where can one look for such information?
(ii) Mercerization
Cotton is basically a dull fibre. The fabric made from cotton wrinkles easily and is
difficult to dye. It is, therefore, treated with sodium hydroxide to make it strong, lustrous
and absorbent. This process is called mercerization. It also improves the dye uptake
of fabrics. Now-a-days this finish has become a routine finish for all cottons. Even
sewing threads which are used for stitching are mercerized. You will find the word
‘mercerized’ on the labels of cotton fabrics and reels of sewing threads denoting that the
goods have been mercerized.
(iii) Parchmentization
Have you heard of a fabric called organdie? Take a piece of organdie fabric and
carefully observe it. The fabric is different from other cotton fabrics. Yes, it is a thin,
transparent, light weight and stiff fabric and seems to be heavily starched. But unlike
starched fabric, its stiffness remains intact even after washing. It is not due to a starch
but because of application of a finish called parchmentization. In parchmentization, the
Fig.11.6: Knotting
Fig.11.8 Tritik
ACTIVITY 11.4
Dipti was happy as she was finally able to buy a saree with beautiful tie and dye design
on it. She was happy also because her saree was much cheaper than her friend Nidhi’s
saree. She proudly exhibited her possession to everybody at home and she also bragged
that it is so inexpensive. However her mother asked her to think about the possible
reason for her saree being priced so low.
Discuss the following:
– What could be the reasons for Nidhi’s saree being more expensive?
– How can you differentiate between a genuine and a fake piece of tie and dye?
– Could the place of production and/or sale outlet also
influence the price of Dipti’s saree?
(ii) Batik
Batik is also a method of resist dyeing. Here, wax is used as
a resist material to prevent the dye from colouring certain
areas. On selected areas of the fabric, a mixture of Bees’ wax
and paraffin wax is filled with a brush or a block, according to
Fig. 11.9
11.5.4 Printing
Let’s us see and understand how printing of fabrics is carried out? Keep two fabrics side
Notes
by side, one a red coloured fabric and the other a fabric having red print. Observe the
difference between the two carefully. Though both the fabrics have red colour, but the
dyed fabric is red all over while in the printed one, only certain areas are of red colour.
This clearly shows the difference between dyeing and printing. You already know that
dyeing is the process of colouring the fabric. Printing is also a process of colouring the
fabric but here colour is applied only in selected areas, to create designs which decorate
the fabric surface.
The major difference between dyeing and printing is that dyeing is carried out in fibre,
yarn or at fabric stage but printing is done only on the fabric surface. This is also known
as selective dyeing.
Popular methods or techniques of printing are –
Ø Block printing
Ø Screen printing
Ø Roller printing
Ø Stencil printing
Block printing and batik are two traditional Sanganer in Rajasthan (near Jaipur) is
printing methods. Here, we will learn the details famous for Block Printing.
of only one type of printing i.e. Block Printing. Shantinektan in West Bengal is known
for Batik.
Block Printing
Have you ever gone to a post office and
observed letters or parcels being stamped.
The stamp is first pressed into an ink pad
and then onto the letter or parcel. Block
printing is similar to this. Here a wooden
block, which has a design engraved on it, is
pressed into a thick dye paste and then
stamped onto the fabric. Do not worry if Fig. 11.10
you do not have a wooden block.
You can follow the same procedure for printing at home using easily available objects
in place of a blocks. Take any vegetable like ladies’ finger or onion or gourd (torai),
Notes
Fig. 11.11
ACTIVITY 11.4
To make a block printed article at home, take a few pieces of ladies’ finger, onion and
a few leaves to be used as blocks. Spread a 10// x 10// fabric on a flat and padded
surface. Pour fabric paints in a small flat container. Dip your home made blocks in paint
and press them on the fabrics. You can make different designs with the same block by
changing its placement.
TERMINAL EXERCISE
1. What is a textile finish? Why is it necessary to apply on fabric?