Floorman Workbook

FLOORMAN TRAINING
COMPETENCY TRAINING WORKBOOK
LEVEL TWO - FLOORMAN
Page 1 of 74
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
FIRST STEPS
OPERATIONS
Page 2 of 74
INTRODUCTION
When working on the drill floor it is critical that you quickly settle in with
your crew, and become a part of THE TEAM.
TEAMWORK is essential to your, and everyone on the crew's Safety, and

critical to the efficiency of all operations.
The Team Leader is the Driller, and all operations will be directed through
him, sometimes via the Assistant Driller.
If you are newly promoted or moving to the next level of Aban In-House
Training you will find that working as a Floorman is very different to working
as a Roustabout. Your Roustabout duties allowed you access to most area's
of the platform/rig, usually working under supervision, but sometimes
working under your own supervision, for the less arduous tasks.
If you are already an experienced Floorman then you will be familiar with the
comments and contents of this module. However, you should review this and
ensure that your supervisor completes the Sign-off Workbook as
confirmation you have achieved the minimum competency level in your
position.
As a Floorman, you will almost always be working as part of a team, even if

you have previously relieved on the rig floor, you will find that full time work
as a Floorman DEMANDS 100% CONCENTRATION at all times. This was
true as a Roustabout however, your work area is more confined for the
majority of the time. You will either be working on the rig/drill floor, the BOP
area or in the wellhead area. All of these areas have common factors. There
are more people in a smaller space, there is moving equipment in a smaller
space and there is moving pipework in a smaller space. We will look at all of
these factors individually, later in this workbook.
Rev 0, February 2011 1

SAFETY
For the new man on the rig floor, the golden rule is to listen to others, watch what you, and
others are doing, follow instructions, and very soon you will learn that Teamwork is essential.
There is a lot to learn on this subject, everyone is learning all of the time. There are however
Basic Safety Rules that MUST be followed at all times.
Report all injuries, no matter how trivial you may think that they are. If you are injured in any
way, report immediately to your Supervisor and seek medical attention. Protective clothing and
provided equipment - Coveralls, Hard Hat, Safety Boots, Gloves and Safety Glasses WILL
always be worn.
As said earlier there is always movement on the rig, be it people, pipework, equipment,
tugger/hoists or travelling blocks. Almost everything that moves is bigger and heavier than you,
SO, follow instructions, listen to what is communicated to you, be alert at all times.
HOUSEKEEPING
As in everywhere else in our offshore lives housekeeping on the rig, goes hand in hand with
safety. Due to the more restricted space that is available on the rig floor and associated areas
housekeeping will be kept at a premium. There is a place for everything and EVERYTHING
WILL BE KEPT IN ITS PLACE.
SOME DO'S & DON'TS
DO NOT leave trip hazards lying about.

DO NOT leave anything, no matter how small, lying around as it can be accidentally kicked into
the hole/well.
DO clean up spillages at the first opportunity after they occur, not only are they a slip potential
they can conceal small tools/items that can be kicked into the hole/well, and this can be an
economic disaster.
DO take pride in the appearance of your work place, a clean workplace, looks, and is
professional, and it gives job satisfaction to the user.
DO look after Safety equipment, rules are, Inspect - if ok, use - Inspect and clean - if ok, store in
proper place.
DO obey all instructions, if unsure, ask.
DO NOT carry out a job if you are unsure what you are doing, speak up, ask questions.
DO look out for your fellow workers - DO NOT allow them to struggle alone - assist him -
THINK OF THE TEAM and remember -
THE ONLY SILLY QUESTION IS THE ONE THAT YOU DO NOT ASK.

VISION
People need to see what they are doing, until you are fully aware what is going on, you will
probably, at some time or another be asked very politely to move your body out of someone's
line of vision (or maybe not so politely). Popular places to be requested to move from are, a
direct line between the Driller and the Rotary Table, or a direct line between a tugger/hoist
operator and whatever he is hooked onto, it is all a matter of common sense really, and boils
down to training and teamwork.
ABOUT THIS BOOKLET
This booklet is split into two sections called "First Steps" and "Operations".
First Steps covers the basic rig floor components and pipe handling equipment.
The second part called Operations introduces you to some of the jobs you will be involved in as a
Floorman. The booklet describes the equipment and operations in general terms and you should
always find out what happens on your own particular rig.
Running through the booklet you will come across Questions in Italics. These are there to
prompt you to go away and find out more, whether it be specific for your rig, more background
information or how a task is carried out.
These answers will not be marked formally by the Training Department but you should still
make every effort to answer them yourself. If you cannot answer any of the questions then ask
your Night Toolpusher, Driller or A.D. who will either give you the answer or tell you where
you can find out for yourself.

FLOORMAN BOOKLET
FIRST STEPS
CONTENTS
RIG FLOOR COMPONENTS
HANDLING EQUIPMENT
- SLIPS
- ELEVATORS
- TONGS
- PIPE SPINNER
- IRON ROUGHNECK
- LIFTING SUBS
- DOG CLAMP
- INSERT BOWLS
- HAND TOOLS
FURTHER READING

RIG FLOOR COMPONENTS
Rig floor design and layout varies from rig to rig. The equipment on rig floors can also vary
from the most up to date state of the art drilling and handling equipment on newer rigs to the
very basic on some of the older rigs. All rig floors, however, share the same basic components
and layout. In this section you will be introduced to these basic components and their purposes.
Once you have read up on them you should try to identify them on your own rig.
Rotary Table It is around the rotary table that you will be working most of the time
to start with as the pipe goes through the rotary table on it's way in
and out of the hole.
Before top drive drilling came into being it was the rotary table that
turned the pipe to drill the hole. It may be that your rig still uses the
rotary table to do this. The rotary table is also where the pipe sits
when you are adding or removing pipe to or from the string. The
pipe is held in position using slips, which are discussed further on.
The rotary table will be found in the centre of the rig floor.
Drawworks The drawworks is basically a large hoist that is used to raise and
lower the pipe during drilling and tripping operations. The driller
will operate the drawworks from his console (called the doghouse).
At either end of the drawworks there are the catheads. These are
used to pull the tongs. The one nearest the Driller's console
(doghouse) is called the make-up cathead and is used to pull the
make-up-tong. It will have a chain attached to it. The one furthest
away from the doghouse is called the break out cathead and is used
to pull the break out tong - it will have a wire rope attached to it -
break out line.
Most rigs nowadays use an “iron roughneck.” This is basically a unit

which runs on tracks to/from the rotary table where the drill string
is in the center. The iron roughneck does the same job as the
manual tongs with 2 hydraulically functioning jaw heads which
tighten (torque) or loosen (break) the drill pipe conncetions.

Drilling Line The drilling line is the wire rope that is attached to the drawworks
and goes round the crown block and allows you to raise and lower
the travelling block.
Crown Block The crown block is an assembly of sheaves (sometimes called the
crown cluster) mounted at the top of the derrick. The drilling line
passes round the crown block.
Travelling Block The Travelling Block is a basically a large pulley that is connected
to the drawworks by the drilling line. By attaching tools and
equipment to the travelling block you can raise and lower pipe for
drilling and tripping operations.
Dead Line Anchor The dead line anchor is where the drilling
line is secured/attached to allow the blocks to be raised and
lowered.
Driller's Console The driller's console or doghouse is where the driller operates the
drawworks tongs and other equipment from. He can also keep an
eye on what is happening in the hole through gauges and monitors.
Racking Area The racking area (pipe rack) is where the pipe is stored once it has
been pulled out of the hole. It is usually wooden to prevent the
threads from getting damaged and is normally situated opposite the
drawworks. There may be more than one of these depending on the
design and layout of your rig.
Make-up tong The manual make up tong is the tong that is used to tighten (torque)
up pipe before it is run in the hole. It is attached to the make up
cathead or the drawworks by a chain.
The make up tong usually hangs nearest to the doghouse. When

making up pipe this tong goes on the top tool joint. When breaking
out pipe this tong is used as a back up and goes on the bottom tool
joint.

Break-out tong The manual break out tong is the tong that is used to loosen (break)
the pipe when pulling it out of the hole. It is attached to the break
out cathead on the drawworks and normally hangs furthest away
from the doghouse.
When breaking out pipe this tong goes on the top tool joint. When
making up pipe this tong is used as a back-up and goes on the
bottom tool joint.
Mousehole The mousehole is a hole in the rig floor which can be used to store
pipe that is about to be added to the string. Normally there is a
larger pipe inserted to allow the stored pipe to be enclosed. This
also acts as a retention for loose protectors which sometimes come
off when picking-up/laying-down pipe. It will have a cover that
should always be in place when the mouse hole is not in use.
Hole Cover The hole cover is a metal plate with lugs that sit in the drive slots of
the Rotary Table (These slots were originally designed for use with
the Kelly drive bushings). It's purpose is to prevent anything
accidentally being knocked down the hole. It should ALWAYS be
in place when there are no tubulars or wireline in the hole.
There are other components found on rig floors and you will find out about them as you gain
experience. On the next page is a diagram of a basic rig floor and a list of some of the major
components. Can you identify which one is which? Get your supervisor to check them for you.
Can you identify the components mentioned on your own rig floor? Perhaps you may want to
make a rough sketch of the layout of your rig floor. On the next page you will see an example of
one

Fig 1 - Basic Rig Floor Layout
IDENTIFY THE FOLLOWING COMPONENTS ON THE DRAWING
A) Dog house
B) Rotary Table
C) Mouse Hole
D) Make up cathead
E) Break out cathead
F) Manual Make up tong
G) Manual Break out tong
H) Iron Roughneck

HANDLING EQUIPMENT
When you first go up to the rig floor you will spend most of your time working round the Rotary
Table, tripping pipe in and out of the hole and working with BHA's. This will involve you in
using the pipe handling equipment and this section will deal with some of the equipment you will
be using quite frequently.
CONTENTS
SLIPS
ELEVATORS
TONGS
PIPE SPINNER
IRON ROUGHNECK
LIFTING SUBS
DOG CLAMP
INSERT BOWLS
HAND TOOLS

SLIPS
INTRODUCTION
The purpose of the slips are to support the drill string at the rotary table when you are tripping in
and out of the hole or are making a connection when drilling.
RECOGNITION
The size and shape of slips will vary depending on what kind of pipe you are setting in them but
will fall into one of three main types:-
a) Drill Pipe
b) Drill Collar
c) Casing
a) DRILL PIPE SLIPS
These are the slips you will use for drill pipe and are easily recognised as they have three
big segments. They will vary in size depending on what size of pipe you will be using
them with but they will always have 3 segments.
The number of inserts (dies) in each segment will vary depending on the model of slips
you have. Normally they will have 3 rows of six inserts. The inserts will run the full
length of each segment.
Each segment will have a handle on it.

b) DRILL COLLAR SLIPS
Drill Collar slips are used with drill collars and other tubulars associated with the B.H.A.
They will vary in size, shape and number of segments depending on the size of pipe they
are being used with.
As a rule of thumb the larger diameter pipe the more segments the set of slips will have.
Inserts for drill collar slips can also vary in size and number. Normally they are in the
form of buttons. Drill collar slips will only have one row of inserts per segment which
will run approximately half way up the segment.
The number of handles on drill collar slips will also vary depending on the number of
segments but there will be a minimum of three handles - one at each end and one in the
middle.
Dog collar or Safety Slips are also installed above the drill collar slips.
Q. How can the various types of slips be adjusted to fit various OD's of tubular?
c) CASING SLIPS
Casing slips are used when running casing and are similar to drill collar slips in that the
size, shape and number of segments will vary depending on the size of casing being run.
The main difference between casing and collar slips is that the inserts in casing slips will
run the full length of the segment.
HANDLING
The first thing you will find out about slips is that they are heavy and correct handling is
important to prevent back injuries. You should never try to pull or set slips on your own.
With drill pipe slips there are 3 handles and therefore three people should be used to pull and set
them. This cannot always be the case and it is sometimes necessary for two people to set them.
No matter how many people there are you should allow your legs to do the lifting and keep your
back straight. Watch the Floormen on your crew a few times and you will see how it should be
done. The slips should be set on the pipe body and not on the taper on the pipe or round the tool
joint. Slips should never be set on drill pipe that is moving.
The number of handles on drill collar slips varies so the number of people needed to set them will
vary. The important thing with collar slips is that they are set evenly. In order to do this
properly one man takes both handles at either end and sets the level. Anyone else with a handle
should ensure that the slips are level all the way round.
With recessed drill collars the slips are set round the lower recess. On slick (smooth) pipe the
slips will be set in such a way that there is room to get the dog collar and tong on the pipe.
As with drill pipe slips you should let your legs do the lifting. Casing slips are handled in much
the same way. This time however they are set under the collar at the top of the joint of casing.
There is an old saying "roughnecks have no thumbs". This does not mean they have lost them
but that when using pipe handling equipment thumbs should not be used as a thumb.
When handling slips you should hold them with your hand under the handle and your thumb
beside your fingers. NEVER wrap your thumb round a slip handle.

The first few times you set slips it may feel a bit strange handling them in this way, but if you
handle them from above and for any reason the elevators fall, you stand a chance of serious
injury. Get the Assistant Driller or one of the Floormen to show you how it should be done.
CARE OF SLIPS
The slips should be inspected before and during use to ensure they are in good condition. Things
to look for are:-
- Segment hinge pins for wear or damage.

- Ensure all collar and slip pins are in place.
- Handle pins for wear or damage.
- Inserts/buttons for wear or damage.
- During use they should be constantly cleaned and checked. Water based mud and oil
based mud affect slips differently.
Poorly maintained or damaged slips can create problems. What are the main problems?
ELEVATORS
INTRODUCTION
The purpose of the elevators are to hold the pipe to enable the travelling block to raise or lower
the pipe in or out of the hole (e.g.) tripping. They are suspended under the travelling blocks by
bail arms.
RECOGNITION
The size, shape and type will vary depending on the type of pipe to be used but will normally fall
into the following categories:
a) Drill Pipe
b) Drill Collar
c) Casing
It is important that you can recognise the different types.
a) DRILL PIPE ELEVATORS

These elevators are for drill pipe and are easily recognised as they open in two equal
segments; hinged at the back and have a pair of horns which you hold to close them. In
the front there is a spring latch assembly with a handle which you use to open them. If
you look down inside the elevators you will notice a tapered shoulder. This is designed
for the elevators when closed around the drill pipe to shoulder out under the box end of
the drill pipe for picking up with the blocks.
Q. What angle is the taper on your 5" drillpipe elevators?
b) DRILL COLLAR ELEVATORS
These elevators are for drill collars; are sometimes called side door elevators, although
there are some manufacturers whose designs are similar to the drill pipe elevators, but
recognising them is easy. As "Side Door" says, it opens to the side to allow the drill
collar to slip into the elevator so that the door can be closed. These elevators fit into a
recess just below the box connection (approx. 2 feet) on the drill collar and when the
weight is taken the top shoulder of the elevators will take the weight. They also have a
spring latch mechanism on the door.
c) CASING ELEVATORS

These elevators are for casing and are also called Side Door Elevators. They can
sometimes be mistaken for Drill Collar Elevators so just be aware of it. Their use and
operation are the similar to Drill Collar Elevators.
Q. What is a pick-up/single joint elevator?
HANDLING
By now you will know the elevators are heavy so use the correct equipment (e.g.)
tugger/hoists/air hoist to install and remove them. Many a finger has been trapped installing and
removing them from the bail arms so beware.
Once installed on the bail arms and they are in use, check the bolts regularly to ensure they are
still tight.
When closing the elevators use the horns and only the horns - remember Roughnecks have no
thumbs so keep them beside your fingers and not wrapped round the horn. Keep your hands
away from the latch assembly and also the area between bail arms and the elevators. There is
normally a handle at the back of the elevators near the hinge pin. Use it for pulling the elevators
back.
Loss of fingers using this equipment was a common occurrence in "the old days" but fortunately
is not so much the case these days -let's keep it this way. Always keep your hands in the correct
places and never alter this habit.
When running in the hole you will need to put a hobble on the elevators.
Q. What does a hobble do?

AIR OPERATED ELEVATORS
On some rigs you will use air operated elevators. These are normally drillpipe elevators that
close automatically when pipe is pushed into them (or they are pushed against pipe) and are
opened by the Driller when there is no weight on them. Despite the fact that they open and close
automatically they will still need to be handled and great care should be taken when doing so.
If you are pulling out of the hole it will have to be pulled clear off the tooljoint in the table as
they are coming down then pushed against it to close them. Be very careful as to where you
place your hands as many accidents have happened when Roughnecks have had their fingers
trapped in the elevators as they are closing.
During use you should look out for the usual things i.e. nuts, bolts, latch etc. and also at the air
line to make sure that it is still attached
CARE OF ELEVATORS
The elevators should be inspected regularly. Before, frequently during and after use to ensure
there are no defects.
Things to look for are:
a) Check play in segments for hinge pin wear or damage.
b) Ensure lubrication is getting to all serviceable parts.
c) Check pins on latch assembly.
d) Check condition of spring on latch assembly.
e) Check latch mechanism for wear or damage.
f) Check integrity of pins and bolts for bail arm attachment area.
g) Always, always, always double check that the elevators are properly closed and that the
safety latch is latched especially with the drill collar and casing elevators.
Q. How often are the elevators inspected and what are the critical inspection points?

TONGS
INTRODUCTION
The purpose of the rig tongs are to "make-up" (or tighten) and "break-out" (or loosen) tubulars
as they are run in or pulled out of the hole.
RECOGNITION
There will be two tongs on the rig floor all of the time.
a) the make up tong

b) the break out tong
and you need to know which is which.
MAKE-UP TONG
The make up tong is the tong that is used to tighten (torque) up pipe before it is run in the hole.
It is attached to the make-up cathead on the drawworks by a chain and normally hangs nearest to
the doghouse.
BREAK-OUT TONG
The break out tong is the tong that is used to loosen (break) the pipe when pulling out of the
hole. It is attached to the break out cathead on the drawworks by a wire line and normally hangs
furthest away from the doghouse.
HANDLING

When using tongs it is very important that you use the handles provided and remember to keep
your thumbs tucked in. Your fingers can be very easily trapped or worse if you place them
anywhere other than the handles.
Tongs are kept at a working height by a means of a counterbalance on the other end of the tong
hanging line. If the counterbalance is maintained properly you should be able to raise and lower
the tong fairly easily to whatever height you are working at.Care should be taken when putting
the tong round tubulars. It is common courtesy to allow the person working the bottom tong to
put their one on first. You must make sure that you put the tong on in the correct place on the
tubulars. For drillpipe this is the tooljoint - not however the hard-banding. On drill collars and
other items of BHA the tongs should be about 8" above and 8" below the break.
It is not possible to describe here how to make the tong bite - this you must learn through
practice and by watching the other men in your crew.
Once you have the bite it is important that you keep your arm straight. By doing so you stand
less chance of getting hurt should the tong slip as you will simply be pushed out of the way by
the tong rather than being hit by it.
When you are finished with the tongs they should be unlatched carefully and tied back ready for
the next time. The most common injuries through using tongs happen when they are being
unlatched i.e. black finger nails/bashed fingers. Take great care as to where you place your
hands when unlatching the tongs.
Both tongs will have safety lines, known as snub-lines, attached to them and secured to a
snubbing post. Any time the tongs are round tubulars you must never step over the snub lines, or
for that matter the make-up chains or break-out lines, as the driller may be about to pull on a line
which will cause it to go tight.
The tongs can be adjusted to go round various different sizes of tubulars. Most times this will
only involve moving the lug jaw in or out a hole but occasionally you will have to add a hinge
jaw. Find out for your rig the different sizes of pipe your tongs will go round for the different
settings on the lug jaw and with hinge jaws in place. When changing tong size never be tempted
to put your finger in the hole to line it up.
Bear in mind that the different components that make up a tong are heavy and you should use
correct manual handling techniques any time you are handling them.
Q. What is meant by a torque rating for your tong and why does it vary with pipe O.D.?

CARE OF TONGS
In order to work correctly tongs, as with all equipment, must be maintained in good condition.
Dies need to be clean and sharp in order to get a good bite. Clean the dies using a wire brush to
see how sharp they are. Sometimes you will find that they are worn at the top or bottom. If this
is the case you need only turn them over. If they are worn over their whole length you will need
to put new ones in. If the dies are tight in their slots you will have to knock them out using a die
chaser and a hammer. Remember goggles must be worn when doing this.
At the top and bottom of each die there will be a die retaining pin. These must always be in
place and should be secured with a split pin to ensure they do not come out accidentally.
The snub-line should be checked to see it is not damaged in any way and that it is securely
attached to both the tong and the snubbing post. This is normally done using shackles which
must also be in good condition and be of a sufficient size to be able to withstand the forces that
could be exerted on them.
Q. What size of shackles are used on your rig to secure the snub-line?
The hinges on the jaws should be greased and worked regularly to ensure a free and easy
operation as should the snatch-block round which the hang-off line passes and the
counterbalance.
The tong balance is also important for easy operation and is adjusted by raising or lowering a nut
at the back at the hanging arm. On some tongs there is also a balance screw on top set the
hanging arm. Get one of the other men on the crew to show you how to adjust the balance of the
tongs on your rig.
At the end of the day it is you - not the Driller or A.D. who will be working the tongs so it is in
your own best interest to make sure that the tong is maintained in the best possible condition thus
making your job a whole lot easier.

Can you identify the following components of a tong on the diagram.
a. Hanger
b. Lever
c. Long Jaw
d. Short Jaw
e. Lug Jaw
f. Latch
Fig 2 : Pipe Tong

PIPE SPINNERS
INTRODUCTION
The Pipe Spinner (also known as "Spinner Hawk") when introduced to the drilling industry
signalled the start of the end of spinning chains. With the appearance of the Iron Roughneck it
has taken a back seat; but is still widely used and if your rig does have an iron roughneck, the
chances are that you will have a Pipe Spinner stored away as a back-up.
In any case the Pipe Spinner is used to spin drill pipe together before using the rig tongs to torque
up the connection and/or after the rig tongs have broken the connection to spin out the drill pipe.
RECOGNITION
The Pipe Spinner is similar in appearance to casing power tongs. But that's as far as it goes.
Pipe Spinners are either air or hydraulically operated. There a several types available so ensure
you understand how the one on your rig works.
The Pipe Spinner will either be suspended from it's own hanging line or may have to be hung off
on one of the rig floor tugger/hoists when in use. When in use there must be a snub line attached
to the spinner and secured to a certified pad eye or snubbing post.
The front end of the pipe spinner has two jaws which clamp and un-clamp round the pipe. Inside
you will see either a broad chain band or a set of rollers, it is these that turn the pipe.
OPERATION
Great care must be exercised when using the pipe spinner as it is a very powerful piece of
equipment and you can be thrown about quite a bit when using it.
The first thing you must do is check that it has been set for the correct direction ie. running in the
hole or pulling out of the hole. When clamping the spinner round the pipe you must make sure
that there are no fingers or hands on the pipe where they could be trapped.
The spinner should be started slowly and once it has started turning the pipe sped up. When the
stand has been spun in or out it should be removed from the pipe and carefully tied back
allowing you to get on with the next part of the operation.

When not in use the pipe spinner should be tied back out of the way. The jaws should be closed,
the power switched off and the unit should be bled down.
Q. Can the Pipe Spinner be used to torque up the connection?
CARE
1. Breakage of chain links or rollers.
2. Serious wear to chains or rollers.
3. Lack of oil in lubricator/Filter on air inlet.
4. Check connections for air/hydraulic supply and condition of hose.
5. Check condition of "snub line".
6. Check wear or damage on operating levers.
7. Check for cracks on motor housing.
8. Check all bolts are tight.
9. Service when not in use and store in safe place.

IRON ROUGHNECK
INTRODUCTION
The Iron Roughneck (also called "Leroy" or "Big Foot") is one of the modern achievements of
the drilling industry and for what it can do, has made the job of roughnecking that much easier.
A Roughnecks friend when working well and an enemy when not. So learn to keep it in prime
condition.
RECOGNITION
The Iron Roughneck is big and stands about 8-10 feet high. This robot is run by hydraulic
power and stands out on the rig floor normally in front of the drawworks. It runs on tracks. Like
many pieces of drilling equipment, there are several types available.
FUNCTION
The function of the Iron Roughneck is to screw together and torque-up the connection and/or
break the connection and unscrew the pipe. Once these jobs have been completed it can be
moved out of the way until it is next required. It also has the ability to adjust its height and
angle.
The Pipe Spinner section is at the top and using levers will clamp the spinner around the pipe and
spin it either to the right or to the left.
NOTE: The Spinner should not be clamped or used on any pipe that is not round. (e.g. spiral
drill collars).
The Pipe Spinner can work on any size pipe (normally up to 8" drill collars).
The Jaws work similar to those of the rig tongs except they are together on the unit. The lower
jaw is the back-up jaw whilst the upper jaw is the break-out and/or make-up jaw. These are
operated hydraulically by levers with the lower jaw always stationary with the upper jaw
pivoting. The jaws come complete with a torque adjustment control and a torque gauge for
applying torque.
The two common designs of jaw assemblies are:
Side door (Same ideas as drill collar elevators).

Equal Segments (Same idea as drill pipe elevators).

HANDLING
To get the Iron Roughneck around the pipe; open the doors and make sure that the Pipe Spinner
is open as well; pull the Iron Roughneck on to the pipe; close the doors and operate as required.
The most important point for making-up and/or breaking-out pipe is that the connection to be
worked on is always between the upper and lower jaws. Failure to position the jaws between the
connection will result in serious damage to the Iron Roughneck, pipe and/or you.
The first thing you will find out about the Iron Roughneck is that it is powerful, so respect that
machine. If you have any servicing or maintenance to do, isolate the power supply because if not
it will seriously damage you.
The Pipe Spinner section needs little maintenance but should be inspected regularly and
maintained as and when required. Look out for hydraulic leaks; check the condition of the
roller, grease as required.
The jaw assembly requires a bit more attention. This is the heavy duty section and must be
regularly inspected, serviced and handled seriously.
Inside the jaws are the tong dies that grip the box and pin ends of the pipe. Keep a good eye on
the dies and if you have to change them then wear safety goggles.
The jaws are closed on the pipe by hydraulic pistons and before you operate them ensure you are
in the right position. Keep your hands on the levers until the operation is complete. Remember
respect this machine.
Keep the moving parts greased and as there is high pressure hydraulic fluid operating it keep a
good check for hydraulic leaks.
There will be a torque gauge on the Iron Roughneck and you should use this to let you know
how much torque to apply to each tooljoint. Check with the Driller for the first couple you make
up to ensure the gauge is working properly and after them always tighten up the joints to the
required setting.

Q. What action needs to be taken on the Iron Roughneck if you had two sizes of drillpipe
in the hole? e.g. 5" - 31/2".
NOTE: Not to be used on casing or tubing.
Things to look for:-
1. Hydraulic leaks.
2. Wear or damage to jaws and spinner.
3. Wear and condition dies in jaws.
4. Lack of lubrication.
5. Wear or damage to pins, links etc on levers.
6. Keeping hands where they are supposed to be placed.
7. Take care when operating the doors.

LIFTING SUBS
The Lifting Sub is designed to lift or lower pipe which cannot be lifted on its own.
In saying this we mean that unlike drill pipe and spiral drill collars there is no tapered shoulder
(drill pipe) or recess (drill collars) for the elevator to come up against.
Most common examples where Lifting Subs are required are:
a. Non-magnetic (slick) Drill Collars.

b. Measurement whilst drilling (MWD) Tools.
c. Mud Motors (turbines).
d. Most Drilling Jars and Bumper Subs.
e. When picking up/laying out components of the BHA.
The Lifting Sub can also be an asset for racking pipe back in the Derrick without a need to
change elevators. An example of this is: We are tripping out of the hole with drill pipe and get
to the drill collars. By installing Lifting Subs into top connection of each stand of drill collars;
they can now be racked back using drill pipe elevators. This works great as normally drill
collars are shorter than drill pipe and sometimes the extra height makes the Derrickman's job to
rack back easier.
It is also a plus with automatic pipe handling equipment on modern rigs as the elevators on these
rigs are also air operated automatic elevators and changing over elevators from drill pipe to drill
collars can be a bit of a bother, especially if you have jars and non-magnetic drill collars and
such in the BHA which would necessitate a change over once or twice more.
Lifting subs need to be treated with the same care you would give to tubulars as the threads can
be damaged and if a damaged thread is screwed into a tubular the damage can be transferred.
Dope will need to be added to the threads prior to being screwed in. The elevators must be
attached before putting the tongs on. When being used to pick up\lay out the BHA the lifting sub
will have to be hammered up to ensure it is tight but should not be made up using the rig tongs as
the deck crew will have to remove the sub on deck.
As with all tubulars, when not in use, the threads should be cleaned, doped and have a protector
put on them.
Q. Should Lifting Subs be solid or should they have an I.D. (like pipe)? Explain why.

DOG COLLARS
The Dog Collar (or safety clamp) is a safety device used as a back-up to slips to ensure that pipe,
normally associated with the BHA, is not unintentionally allowed to drop down the hole.
RECOGNITION
The Dog Collar is in fact a set of slips. They will vary in size and number of segments
depending on the size of pipe they are being used on. The Dog Collar has only one insert per
segment and anything between two and four handles dependent upon the number of segments.
Further reading on dog collars can be found in block 4 of the Pipe Handling Equipment
Homestudy.
HANDLING
When the Bottom hole assembly (BHA) is being racked back or laid out the pipe is set in the
slips in the Rotary table. Before attempting to break the connection the Dog Collar is placed
around the pipe and then tightened up, using a hammer wrench. It's positioning is usually about
4" above the slips. This will ensure that if the slips fail for any reason the Dog Collar will stop
the pipe from going down the hole. The same goes for RIH or picking up BHA's.
The Dog Collar is also used on casing. They are normally used when there is light string weight
below the Rotary Table, or always when slick pipe (e.g. Non-Magnetic Drill Collars) is being
made up/laid out to/from the string.
REMEMBER dog collars are used round an open hole so be very careful with the hammer and
spanner and make sure there are no loose segments, dies, pins etc. that may fall down the hole.
Q. Are Dog Collars used on recessed collars, slip collars or both?
CARE OF DOG COLLARS
The Dog Collar should be inspected before, frequently during and after use to ensure they are in
good condition. Just as in "the care of slips" you have basically the same components to look out
for. They should be stored when not in use in an oil bath.

BOWLS
The Bowls (also called "Bushings" and "Inserts") are placed in the master bushings in the Rotary
Table and enable the slips to be set around the pipe, so that the Rotary Table can take the weight
of the pipe string to allow connection to be made-up or broken-out.
The Bowls are split (meaning they come in two halves) and are removed and/or inserted with the
bushing pullers (hooks on chains) using a rig floor tugger/hoist/air hoist.
RECOGNITION
The Bowls are circular in shape and the outer areas on all are the same; made to fit the master
bushing. The inner area is tapered and is designed for accommodating the slips.
The Bowls generally come in three sizes and these are designed to be able to handle the different
sizes of pipe. The easiest way to understand which size of bowl to use and when; is to remember
this: "The smaller the size of pipe, the thicker the size of Bowls to use". As a rule this will keep
you in good stead.
The reason the bowls are split is simple. There will always be a need to remove the bushing with
pipe through the rotary. e.g. the bottom hole assembly may have stabilisers in the string that are
greater in diameter than the inner diameter of the bowls. Since the bowls are split (in two halves)
they can be removed and inserted as and when required, with pipe in the hole.
HANDLING
The bowls should be handled using the bushing puller. You may have two on your rig floor - a
big one with four hooks on chains and a smaller one with two hooks on chains. The big one is
normally used when removing the master bushings. If you are on your own you should ideally
use the smaller of the two sets. Good communication between the person handling the bushing
puller and the tugger/hoist operator is of the utmost importance.

CARE OF BOWLS
The Bowls are made to take a lot. The things to be aware of are:-
a. When not in use clean and grease them all over.
b. When in use continually use "Pipe Dope" on the inner area, making sure you have
cleaned the bowls first or the dope will be of no use. This will avoid causing the slips to
stick in the bowls when the pipe string weight is heavy.
c. When removing or inserting the bowls; do it, one half at a time. Never allow your feet to
get under the Bowls when suspended on the hooks.
d. Normally the Bowls fit into the master bushing very snugly. Take your time removing
or inserting them to avoid getting them jammed in at an angle.
e. If the slips are sticking, even though you are using lots of dope it could be that the Bowls
inner area is worn so get them checked out.
Q. How will a misaligned derrick affect the bowls?
Q. What is a slip test, why is it done and what does it tell you?

HAND TOOLS
Hand Tools are exactly that. Tools that you use with your hands...adjustable spanners,
hammers, hack saws, pipe wrenches, etc. The important thing to remember is "use the right tool
for the right job" and know how to use it". For instance can you put a chain tong on first time for
making up and breaking out?
RECOGNITION
It is to your benefit to learn the offshore terms for the different tools quickly so that if you are
asked to supply a tool you will know what to get. Here are two examples:-
a. An Adjustable Spanner is also known as a "Crescent Wrench", or an "English Spanner"

or a "Shifter".
b. A Pipe Wrench is the most commonly used tool on the rig and comes in different sizes
e.g., 12", 18", 24", 36" and 48". So you might be asked, not for a pipe wrench, but, to
get a 24; which means pipe wrench but because the tool is so common the size specifies
what is required.
HANDLING
It is amazing how many times hand tools have held up the progress of a job because it was in an
unsafe condition, the tool used broke because it wasn't strong enough for the job, the tools
couldn't be found etc. It is your responsibility to ensure that the tools are accounted for when
you come on shift and are there when you finish. An easy way to keep on top of the tools
whereabouts is a tool board with the shape of each tool sketched on to the board. Then you can
look at the board and know what needs to be found. As often as possible the tools must be
cleaned and checked for wear and damage and are serviced so that they function properly.
The beauty about the board is that if you clean and replace the tools immediately after use, you
will automatically know where to get the tools for the next job instead of running around hunting
or trying to remember where they were last seen lying around. The idea of designated places for
tools keeps the place respectable and also ensures that tools can be found quickly when they are
needed and are in working condition.
When using hand tools round the rotary COVER THAT HOLE.
Hand tools and fishing seem to go in hand if you don't.

FURTHER READING
Aban Basic Safety Policy Booklet

Aban QHSE Manual
Aban Drilling Operations Manual

NOTES

FLOORMAN BOOKLET
OPERATIONS
CONTENTS
TRIPPING
BHA’S
CASING
BOP STACK
WELLHEADS
SLIP AND CUT
WIRELINE OPERATIONS
PRESSURE TESTING
TUGGER/HOIST OPERATIONS

TRIPPING PIPE
WHY TRIP PIPE?
There are a number of reasons for tripping pipe and you will become familiar with them as you
gain experience. Each time you are tripping pipe find out from your A.D why you are doing it
and get him to explain the reasons behind it. A few reasons why you may trip pipe are as
follows:-
1/ To change the bit

2/ To change the Bottom Hole Assembly (BHA)
3/ To perform a wiper trip
4/ To check the drill string for a washout (leak)
5/ Because you've reached Total Depth (T.D)
PREPARATION OF EQUIPMENT
It is one of the Floormans main duties to ensure that all equipment needed for the operation in
hand is ready, in good safe working order and easily accessible. If you are unsure as to what
equipment to sort out then ask the other men on the crew or the A.D. For tripping pipe you will
need slips, elevators, rig tongs, pipe spinner, (you may use an iron roughneck instead of tongs
and spinner), pipe wiper, BOP valve, paintstick, squeegee and tailing rope.
We won't cover everything here as you will learn it as you gain experience so we will just
concentrate on the main items of handling equipment and the BOP valve.
Slips - Check the dies to ensure they are intact and not too worn.
Make sure all segment pins are intact and have split pins and
Washers attached. Check the handles are securely attached to the
Segments and are not damaged in any way.
The backs of the segments should be checked for cracks.
(Remember, if the dies need changing, use the correct tool and PPE)
Elevators - Should be checked to ensure the latch mechanism is working

properly. Open and close them a few times to ensure smooth
operation and if necessary they should be greased. Ensure you have
lug pins or bolts and some way of retaining them and of course the
latch safety pin.
When running in the hole a hobble will be usually be required.

Rig Tongs - Ensure the rig tongs jaws are set to the right size for the pipe in
the hole.
Check dies are not too badly worn and turn or replace them as
required.
Check the snublines to ensure they are securely attached to the
tongs and snubbing posts and they are in good condition.
"Work" the tongs a few times to ensure smooth operation and if
necessary they should be greased.
(Remember, if the dies need changing, use the correct tool and
PPE)
Pipe Spinner - Ensure all hoses are securely attached to the pipe spinner and
there are no leaks.
Check the operation of the spinner to ensure it opens and closes
and operates in both directions.
Check the snublines to ensure they are securely attached to the
pipe spinner and the snubbing points and they are in good
condition.
Iron Roughneck - Ensure all hoses are securely attached to the iron roughneck
and there are no leaks.
Check the dies are not badly worn and turn or replace them as
required.
Check the operation of the iron roughneck to ensure it goes up
and down and operates properly.
BOP valve - Ensure the valve operates smoothly and is in the open position.
Make sure you have a key to operate the valve handy. Make
sure the BOP valve is easily accessible and has a lifting device
in it.
Drill pipe Pup - If your rig has a top drive you will also have to
Joint ensure that there is a pup joint on the floor. If you take a kick
and have to stab the BOP valve the pup joint will be needed so
you can get the top drive on and still be able to open the valve.
Hole Cover - Once you have all the pipe out of the hole you should cover it
to ensure nothing is accidentally knocked down it. Make sure
the hole cover is accessible and is used at all times.
Q. What is a Pipe Wiper?
Q. What is a Paintstick?

TRIPPING PIPE
Tripping/Running in the hole (R.I.H)
The exact procedure for tripping in the hole varies from rig to rig depending on number of
Floormen, equipment ie. iron roughneck or tongs and rig floor layout so it is not possible for us
to cover any specific method here. What we will do though, is go over the basics that will be
consistent to all rigs.
Before you commence running in the hole with the BHA the trip tank, standpipe manifold,
flowline and shakers will all have to be lined up. You will be shown how to do this for your rig
by the A.D. or one of the experienced members of the crew. Remember, if you are unsure ask.
Q. Why is the trip tank important?
The area around the racking boards and rotary table should be kept as free as possible from any
clutter and mud. After the BHA has been run, tidy away any tools and equipment that you no
longer require thus getting rid of trip hazards.
The pipe is usually numbered as it is run in the hole and it is the Floorman's duty to ensure that
the numbering is correct. The reason for numbering the pipe is so that the Driller can tell at a
glance how much pipe he has in the hole at any time. This is important because the Driller has
to monitor the well to ensure that the correct amount of mud is being displaced from the hole for
the amount of pipe run in. Another important reason for numbering the pipe is that there may be
tight spots in the hole at certain depths and the Driller needs to know when he is approaching
these tight spots so that he can slow down the tripping.
The elevators will have to be positioned for the derrickman. Either find out where he wants them
set before he goes up the derrick or check with him on the first stand of drillpipe. When running
in the hole, the hobble will normally be used on the elevators. The hobble makes it easier for the
derrickman to close the elevators so you should ensure that it is on and set correctly i.e. it is not
too tight, closing the elevators on it's own and not too loose, therefore not doing it's job
effectively.

Once the derrickman has latched the elevators, the pipe will be picked up and tailed across the
rig floor by the Floorman. This is a particularly hazardous operation and it is important that
everybody knows what is happening. Sometimes a tugger/hoist/hoist or tailing rope will be used.
It should be wrapped round the pipe once and secured to a strong point behind the racking
board. This avoids the necessity of any physical contact with the drillpipe and greatly reduces
the possibility of a caught between incident. Where a tailing rope is not used two men should tail
the pipe. Care should be taken as to where you put your hands on the pipe. Do not try this unless
you have been instructed in the correct method.
Having tailed the stand of pipe to the rotary table it now needs to be stabbed into the one sitting
in the slips. When stabbing the pipe it is vitally important that your hands and fingers are well
clear of the threads to avoid getting them trapped. If the stand does not go in first time wait until
the driller picks it up and then re-stab it. You should not knock it in as this may damage the
threads or shoulder.
Once the stand has been stabbed it will have to be spun in and torqued up. How this is done will
depend on whether your rig has an iron roughneck or uses a pipe spinner and tongs. If your rig
uses a pipe spinner and tongs you will learn more about the details there but as always you must
be aware of the snublines and chain going tight and never step over them when they are round
the pipe. The top-drive may be used to spin the pipe in but final torque will be done using
tongs/iron roughneck.
Having made up the stand and removed the iron roughneck or tongs the driller will pick up on
the stand allowing the slips to be pulled. Ideally three men should pull slips but when this cannot
be the case a minimum of two people will have to do it. NEVER try and pull drillpipe slips on
your own. Remember when pulling slips, as with all manual lifting, use proper manual handling
techniques. The driller will now run the stand into the hole and once the top tool joint is at the
rotary you will have to re-set the slips. You should never "stop" the pipe with the slips as you
can easily damage the pipe and/or the slips but should wait until the pipe stops moving before
setting them. As before proper handling techniques should be used.
Once the slips have been set the elevators need to be unlatched. Again great care needs to be
taken with the placement of your hands. Before the elevators are raised check to ensure they are
still in the correct position for the derrickman.
In between stands is the time for housekeeping and pipe numbering.
You should also be periodically checking your equipment to ensure everything is O.K - all
shackles and lines are secure, die retaining pins are still in place and that none of the dies have
broken or cracked. As with all rig floor operations good observation is of the utmost importance.

TRIPPING PIPE
Tripping/Pulling out the hole (POOH)
We have already mentioned a few of the reasons why you may have to pull out of the hole
(P.O.O.H) and have covered the basics for running pipe in the hole (R.I.H). The procedure for
tripping out with drillpipe is almost the reverse of running in with a few important differences.
When you are pulling pipe out of the hole is the time that you give it a good inspection and dope
the threads. When inspecting it you will be looking for any damage to the shoulder and threads
and also to the body of the pipe. If you spot anything out of the normal report it to your driller
immediately. It is better to report everything, no matter how small it may seem to you, than to
spend several days fishing for the string.
Q. You dope the pipe on the way out of the hole - why is that?
The next big difference is that you must wipe the pipe on the way out. Initially you will use a
“rubber roughneck” or length of hose to do this but after a few stands you will be told to put the
rubbers in. Why don't rubbers go in straight away? This will mean removing the insert bowls
while a stand is being pulled so you must ensure there are no loose items round the rotary table
that would be accidentally kicked down the hole.
Q. The rubbers will have to be removed again when the B.H.A reaches surface. Why is
this?
Q. What is the real use of a Rubber Roughneck?
The last main difference is that you will be racking the pipe back instead of picking it up. If
there are stands already on the racking board you will carry on racking from there. It is good
practice to somehow mark the stands that were not in the hole - tying some rope round them is
one common method. If there are no stands on the racking board you will have to start from the
beginning. It is important that you know where the first stand is going to be set and continue
placing them neatly from this starting point. Use some chalk to mark the point you want to set
the first stand.
As with tripping in the hole an accurate count of how many stands have been pulled must be
kept. Why?

Normally two men will rack the pipe back. This is another particularly hazardous part of the
operation and care should be taken not to trap any part of your body between the stand you are
handling and any on the board. You should also ensure that your feet do not get under the stand
at any time. Whenever possible the driller should be able to see the tooljoint as it is coming
down so do not position yourself where you will be obstructing his view.
Occasionally, when racking back, the stand gets set down out of position. When this is the case
you should use the proper pipe jack or the driller may just raise the pipe back up to reposition the
stand. Using hammers or pipe wrenches is not recommended as this can damage the tooljoint.
Once you have pulled the first few stands the driller will normally pump a slug/pill. The slug is
mud that is heavier than the mud in the hole and once it has been chased it will sit below the
wellhead somewhere. Having pumped the slug/pill you will find that the pipe is dry when it is
broken out meaning that you no longer have to use a mud bucket to contain the mud and hence
the rig floor will stay cleaner.
Q. When would you not pump a slug?
Q. At what stage during a trip can you use your feet to kick the slips into place?
PUMPING OUT OF THE HOLE (wet trip)
Occasionally it is necessary to pump out of the hole, that is to say the kelly or top drive will be
attached to the stand being pulled and the driller will be pumping mud down the hole as he is
raising the pipe. The most common reasons for this are tight hole - i.e. there is a chance of
getting struck, and to prevent swabbing.
What is meant by swabbing?
When pumping out it is important that the pipe is kept moving as much as possible so when you
are actually breaking a stand you should ensure that it is done as smoothly as possible. Good
communication between all members of the crew will ensure that everyone knows what they are
doing.
If you work on a rig which has a Kelly you will have to lay the pipe out of the V-door each time
you pull a single. These joints will have to be picked up again later.
Why?

When pumping out you will be using a mud bucket to help contain the mud but this will not
eliminate mud from the rig floor so someone will have to be cleaning up whenever there is an
opportunity. You will also have to clean and dope the slips more frequently to ensure they hold
the pipe.
Q. Find out where the mud goes from the mud bucket? Why does it go there?
Personal Protective Equipment (P.P.E)
When tripping out the hole especially if it is liable to be wet you may have to wear a slicker suit
to avoid getting mud on your skin. Barrier cream must be put on before shift and replaced
anytime you wash your hands – tea break, mealbreak etc. Once any messy work is over you
should wash, and change your overalls for clean ones.
KICK DRILLS
From time to time while you are tripping pipe (normally P.O.O.H) you will take part in a kick
drill. This is to ensure that everyone on the floor knows what to do in the event of a kick. If you
take a kick while tripping it is important to get the BOP Valve stabbed on to the pipe and closed
in as quickly as possible so you should always react to kick drills as quickly as possible and not
treat them as some kind of game. THEY MUST BE TAKEN DEADLY SERIOUSLY AS
SOME DAY YOU MAY BE INVOLVED WITH THE REAL THING. Your
supervisor/Driller will ensure you understand why and how to do this.

BHA'S
The bottom hole assembly (BHA) comprises of everything in the hole other than the drill pipe
i.e., everything from the hevi-wall drillpipe to the bit. The BHA can do several jobs depending
on the operation in hand but the main ones are provide weight to the bit for drilling and to help
stabilise the pendulum affect i.e., therefore allowing a straight hole to be drilled. For horizontal
well drilling the BHA set-up is critical to allow for optimum performance while avoiding being
stuck in the hole.
COMPONENTS
The components of the BHA will vary enormously depending again on the operation in hand but
will include such things as drill collars, stabilisers, bit, roller reamers, MWD tools, junk baskets,
monel steel tubulars, near bit subs, bent subs and crossovers. For the components mentioned
below find out what types there are and what their main use is. You can write these in the spaces
provided. If you don't know yourself ask your Assistant Driller, Driller, the Directional Driller
or Drilling Engineer.
BITS

DRILL COLLARS
STABILISERS
ROLLER REAMERS

MWD TOOLS
JUNK SUBS & JUNK BASKETS

MONELS (Monel Drill Collar -made from monel steel – non-magnetic)
NEAR BIT SUBS
CROSSOVERS

Handling the BHA on trips
Before pulling out of the hole you should find out what BHA is down there and what tools and
equipment you will need to be able to handle it. You should also find out if anything is being
changed.
Once you know what you are needing you should go and get it ready and ensure it is in
serviceable conditions. What you need will depend on what is being pulled and what equipment
your rig has i.e., pipe handler, but may include some or all of the following:
Elevators for the different size collars in the hole.
Lifting Subs to allow you to use drillpipe elevators to pull stands of BHA or if
you are laying anything out.
Collar Slips for use with all components of the BHA other than the hevi-wall
drillpipe. You may need several different sizes.
Safety Clamp or dog collar clamp for use on all slick tubulars and sometimes on recessed drill
collars. Again you may need to make more than one up.
Insert Bowls you may have to change out the insert bowls to accommodate larger
diameter pipe.
Bushing Pullers for pulling the insert bowls and master bushings for large diameter
tubulars.
Crossovers for the BOP valve. It is vitally important that you have crossovers
ready for the BOP valve that will fit the tubulars in the hole. Many
kicks occur when the BHA is being pulled and if this does happen
you don't want to be running around the rig in search of the
crossover.
Extension Jaws for the manual rig tongs for the larger tubulars.
Bit Breaker for the size of bit in the hole.
Bit Breaker adaptor plate to sit the bit breaker in on the rotary table.
Hand Tools normally chain tongs and sledgehammers.
Hole Cover to be used whenever there are no tubulars in the hole.
The handling equipment mentioned above is covered in more detail in First Steps.

As with tripping pipe we cannot cover the specifics of how you trip BHA's on your rig but we
will look at some of the basics involved in:
Pulling BHA's out of the hole

Running BHA's in the hole
Picking up/laying down components of the BHA

PULLING BHA'S OUT OF THE HOLE
Setting the Slips
When setting collar slips one man should grasp the two front handles and one or more men
should support the back of the slips using the other handles. The slips should be level when set
and all the segments should be gripping the pipe. If this is not the case then you may have to re-
set them. On recessed tubulars the slips should be set on the bottom recess. In some cases three
persons
Putting on the Dog Collar (Safety) Clamp
On slick (smooth) collars and sometimes on recessed ones you will have to use a dog clamp.
The dog clamp should be about 2-3 inches above the slips, level and all the dies should be
gripping the pipe. As the dog clamp is being tightened up someone should work round it tapping
the back with a hammer to ensure all the dies grip. Before hammering up the clamp you should
tap all the pins down. When handling the dog clamp you should use the handles provided and
not put your hands or fingers under it to support it as if the pipe moves you may get them trapped
between the slips and the clamp.
Putting on the Tongs
The tongs should be put on a few inches either side of the break. It is common courtesy to put
the bottom tong on first. The break out tong should take a bight at a 90 degree angle to the pipe
in order to be most effective. Once the Driller has taken the bight he will probably tell you to get
out of the way. The reason for this is the torques involved are greater than with drillpipe and
should anything go wrong you would get very seriously hurt. You should not make a move to
get out until the Driller tells you as he may be pulling on a line that you are unaware of. When
getting out remember to go under the lines and not over them. Once out you should put some
steel between yourself and the tongs. (Be in a safe/barriered spot)

Spinning out the Stand
This will normally be done using a chain tong - possibly two for larger tools or the top drive. A
good Floorman will be able to put a chain tong on quickly and correctly every time so it will be
worth your while spending a bit of time practicing on any stands that are left in the derrick while
drilling is ongoing. It may take more than one man to back the joint out so once again good
teamwork is important. When the stand is fully backed out you will feel it jump. When it does
this the chain tong should be removed.
Q. What would be a "Rule of Thumb" for putting on the Chain Tong correctly each time?
Racking back the Stand
Before racking back the BHA you should find out where everything is going to be placed on the
racking board - WHY?
All tubulars in a BHA are very heavy so great care should be taken when racking it. You may
have to rig up a tugger/hoist/hoist to help you. As with racking drillpipe the Driller should be
able to see where he is setting the stand down so it is important that you do not block his view.
Lifting Subs
You will nearly always have to use lifting subs on some part of the BHA. These should be ready
and in good condition. They will have to be nipped up prior to pulling the stand and therefore
normal make-up practices should be employed - i.e., check threads, dope tooljoint (elevators
must be latched on to the lifting sub before putting tongs on). Care should be taken when putting
the tongs on as there may not be a lot of space to get a bight.
Rotary Pegs
May have to be used for backing out any tubulars that are being replaced, removed or
repositioned. The rotary peg will have a short end which is put in a Kelly bushing hole in the
rotary table and a long end which the pipe is stabbed over.
Q. What kind of tubulars would you use a rotary peg for?

BHA's RUNNING IN THE HOLE
There is very little difference in the activities involved in Running in the hole with the BHA
compared to POOH.
As with racking back, tailing-in is a major hazard due to the weights involved. It is of vital
importance that you have control at the stand at all times, whether it be by using a
tugger/hoist/hoist, rope or several members of the drill crew.
Once the stand has been spun in it will have to be made-up. This will be done by pulling on the
break out line and not the chain - Why is this?
Because of this the torque sensor will have to be fitted to the snubline on the make up tong.
Normally it is attached between the snubline post and the snubline.
Q. Which way does it go round? Why?
Once the stand has been made up it will be run in the hole as normal. When this is happening
you should be thinking ahead to the next stand. Do you need different tools in order to be able to
make it up? Are they ready? These are things a good roughneck is thinking about.

PICKING UP/LAYING OUT COMPONENTS OF THE BHA
Picking up and laying out components of the BHA can be a very hazardous operation
particularly due to the fact that it will involve both the drill and deck crews. Good
communication is vital. You will participate in a five minute pre-task Safety Meeting on the rig
floor to discuss the operation prior to commencing work.
Once again we cannot go into any great detail here about the ins and outs of picking up/laying
out the BHA compnants as each rig and BHA is different, so we will just look at some of the
basics.
Prior to starting you should have everything you need to hand - slings, lifting caps and subs,
chain tongs, hammer, protectors, to name but a few. Anything else that is not required should be
cleared out of the way.
When using the crane to tail tubulars in and out of the V door there should only be one
designated banksman to give signals to the Crane Operator and the Driller. Everyone else
should keep their eyes open for any hang-ups or problems. If you see something wrong tell the
banksman to stop the operation. During this operation you must never walk between the joint in
the slips and the one coming in the V door. You should also ensure you do not obstruct the
Driller's view.
Once the pipe is in the V door and the crane has been slacked off you will have to unhook it. Do
not let the hook drop when it is off as it could swing out and hit someone. Any slings or
protectors you are finished with should be tidied out of the way until you have time to store them
in their proper place.
Q. During the above operation, at what time should thread protectors be added or
removed?

DRILLING OPERATIONS
As a Drilling Contractor our primary job is to drill holes in the ground. Associated with this
there are other tasks such as tripping pipe, running casing etc, which are the busier times in a
Floormans job. When we are actually drilling it may appear that things are quiet and in a purely
physical sense this may well be the case but there are lots of other things to be getting on with.
The main job of the drill crew when drilling is to make connections - ie. add pipe to the drill
string as the hole is drilled deeper and this will be covered later. When you start drilling you will
have just tripped in the hole and it may well be that the rig floor needs tidying up and this should
be the first thing you do - clean and tidy away all tools you have been using, tidy up round the
Rotary table and the racking boards and generally clean up the place. Once this has been done
you will have the opportunity to service any pipe handling equipment - iron roughnecks, tongs,
pipe spinner, elevators, slips etc. that you have been using. Depending on your rig layout and
crew make-up it is likely that one of the Floormen will go down to the shakers. His job there
will be to monitor the flow back from the hole and inform the Driller of any changes. (Shakers
are covered in more detail later on).
Having got everything ready it will be time to get down to some serious housekeeping and
maintenance. One man should remain on the drill floor at all times to assist the Driller by
marking or wiping the pipe as required, performing flow checks or anything else that needs
doing. There are plenty of jobs on the rig floor that can be done - if you can't find one ask your
Driller because he certainly will be able to.
Once the stand has been drilled down you will have to make a connection and add some more
pipe to the string. How you go about this will depend on the rig you are working on so we won't
go in to this here. There are however a couple of things you should be aware of.
Firstly, you will be in open hole and there is always a chance of getting stuck, especially when
the pipe is not moving and the pumps have been shut down. It is important then that the
connection is carried out as quickly as possible. Teamwork is vital. Discuss beforehand who
will be doing what and double check just to make sure. Do this every time you make a
connection. It's better to be sure than stuck.

Secondly, no matter how you make the connection you will have to set the string in the slips.
Once the new section of pipe has been added you will have to pull the slips before you start
drilling. Beware of the fact that there may be some torque in the string and when the Driller
takes the weight the slips could spin round so keep your hands clear until you know it is safe to
pull them. Having pulled them get them clear of the rotary table so there is no chance of them
falling back in during drilling. If your rig has a top drive, there will be a special hole cover that
can be used whilst drilling. ALWAYS replace it after a connection.
If you come on shift and you are drilling there are some checks you will be responsible for
carrying out after you have done your handover. These will vary from rig to rig but two that you
will have to do no matter where you work are the manifold line-ups, the standpipe and the choke.
The standpipe will need to be lined up to allow the mud to flow from the pumps to the kelly or
top drive. Find out where else the mud can be sent by using the standpipe manifold.
The choke manifold will have to be lined up as per Aban or in some cases the Client’s well
control policy. You will be shown how to do this for your rig by the Assistant Driller, who will
always check the line up. Rather than just blindly do what you are told ask some questions.
Q. What is the Choke Manifold for? Where does it come from/go to?
Why is it lined up the way it is?
During drilling operations you should be constantly aware of everything. You will get used to
the noise when you are drilling and will notice if it changes. If it does change it could mean there
is a problem with something so report it. Watch out for any leaks. Mud could indicate a
washpipe failure or hose burst - report it. Oil could indicate a top drive or mechanical problem -
report it. Anything unusual you spot should be reported no matter how small you may think it
is.

Earlier it was mentioned that a Floorman is normally sent to watch the shakers. Be aware that
this could be your task at some point. (Ask why this is necessary?)
The principle reason for the Shale Shakers being manned at all times whilst drilling and
circulating fluids, is to prevent fluid loss and observe for any irregularities. A Shaker hand
should be competent in start up, running of and shut down of Shakers. He should be able to
change screens and diagnose faults.
Before starting to drill/circulate, the Shaker hand should check Shale Shakers are running, that
there are no leaks in hydraulic hoses. Then check line-up is for drilling ie., through header box,
over Shakers, through sand trap and settling pits and down through to pit room. It might have
previously been lined up to circulate on the trip-tank for tripping purposes. Also check that there
are no dump valves open or gates in wrong places.
When fluid begins to flow over the Shakers, let the Driller know so he can check his instruments
and gauges.
When using mud, and the Driller begins to circulate after tripping in the hole, the mud will be
cold and thick (high viscosity) and will run off the screen. If mud loss continues, contact the
Driller to slow down the pump rate. Let the Driller know when it is possible to increase his
strokes.
Communication with the Driller is very important as you are his eyes and ears in the Shaker
area, and you may observe any irregularities even before the instruments pick them up.
Such as:
- Mud flow increase after being constant for a while.

- Cuttings increase or a change in size of cuttings.
- If flow decreases or stops (it may be a connection being made).
Any of these signs - inform the Driller immediately. Other factors not affecting the hole, may be
loss of hydraulic/electric power to Shakers causing them to stop and loss of mud or a deluge
release causing an increase to pit volume.
Other Shaker duties include being able to line up pumps and machinery for use ie., degasser, de-
sander, de-silter, gun/jetting line, trip tank pump, fill line and be able to return mid to pit room.
When starting up or stopping these pumps or any other changes that may change the pit volumes,
inform the Driller, Mud Loggers and the Derrickman. And, of course, good housekeeping!

Mud weights and viscosities should be taken and noted at least every thirty minutes (more in
high pressure zones or when expecting a change in mud weight). If there are any changes let the
Driller and the Derrickman know. Check your scales daily with fresh water to make sure
balance is calibrated correctly.
When changing screens to different size mesh, clean, mark and score used screens. If using new
screens let the Storeman/Mud Engineer know how many and what sizes.
If all else is quiet, clean and maintain Shale Shaker area.
The Shaker house will be a loud place so the wearing of some form of ear protection will be
required. You will also be getting your hands covered in mud so use barrier cream to protect
your skin and reapply it as often as required. Make sure you know where the eye-wash/shower is
located and always check it is working when you first go to the shakers.
Q. What are the key parts of the Circulating System?
Q. What is the difference between Drill Pipe and Drill String?
Q. Does Flow stop immediately when pumps are switched off?
Q. What happens to Pit Levels when a connection is made?
Q. How would you check the calibration of the Marsh Funnel?

CASING
Introduction
You may know by now that an oilwell is drilled in sections of decreasing size as you get deeper
and that casing is run after each section and cemented into place. The purpose of the casing is to
give permanent protection from contaminating fluids, provide pressure tightness and prevent
wellbore collapse. The size of the casing will decrease the deeper you go. Below is shown a
typical casing programme for a well. Note the different outside diameter (O.D.) sizes of casing
and the order they are run in.
30” CONDUCTOR
20” CASING
13 3/8” CASING
9 5/8” CASING
7” LINER
5” PRODUCTION
TUBING
Fig 3 : Typical Casing Programme
It is not our intention here to look at the theory of casing in any depth but to look at actually
running casing. You should however spend some time reading up on casing and cementing and
talking with your driller, AD and other Floormen.
Preparation

Before running casing you will be involved in quite a few operations - POOH, Wiper Trips etc.
but there will be times when the hole is being circulated clean and you must use this time to get
things ready for running casing. Obviously the equipment you need to prepare will depend on
your rig. In the space provided list as many things as you can that a Floorman would be
responsible for preparing or getting ready before running casing and what they are used for.
1________________________________________________________________________
___
2________________________________________________________________________
___
3________________________________________________________________________
___
4________________________________________________________________________
___
5________________________________________________________________________
___
6________________________________________________________________________
___
7________________________________________________________________________
___
8________________________________________________________________________
___
9________________________________________________________________________
___
10_______________________________________________________________________
___

If you haven't managed to list 10 or more items have a chat with the other Roughnecks or the
Assistant Driller on the crew and get some ideas from them.

Before running casing the wear bushing will have to be retrieved. Can you answer the following
questions.
Q. What is the wear bushing and what does it do?

How is it retrieved and why?
In most instances a specialised casing crew will come out to run the casing but you will have to
assist them in rigging up their equipment. Third party personnel should not be allowed to
operate the tugger/hoists/hoists on the rig floor, this should only be done by the drill crew. Once
everything has been rigged up, double check to ensure that all safety procedures are in place i.e.
Are there snublines of a sufficient size fitted to the power tongs/casing tongs? Are the air lines
secured properly with pins and/or safety slings? Have any shackles in use been secured? These
things should already have been done but must be double checked. Remember it is you who will
be working round these items. One important item that you will need to have on the rig floor is a
crossover from the casing you are running to a T.I.W valve (or a circulating head).
Why?
Before the casing job actually begins the Driller will hold a five minute safety meeting on the rig
floor to discuss the specifics of carrying out the job and any special precautions that must be
taken using the JRA as a guide. Everyone involved in the casing operation, including the casing
crew, will all attend this meeting and everyone should contribute. If you have any questions or
concerns this is the time to ask.
Running Casing
The first few joints of casing i.e. the float, shoe and possibly 2 others, depending on the
programme, will be tailed in by the crane to prevent damage to the threads. These joints will be
cleaned on the rig floor and “bakerlocked” before making them up.
Q. Why Bakerlock? What is the float and shoe for?
Communication is very important here as the crane and blocks will both be attached to the joint
of casing as it is being tailed in - one man should signal both the Driller and the Crane Operator.
Once the first couple of joints have been run the casing job will start proper and stay very much
the same until the end. Job rotation is vital to prevent people getting distracted or complacent
and constant vigilance throughout is a must. Keep checking the tailing rope to ensure it is not
getting frayed. Check all shackles in use and handling equipment regularly. Are the snub lines
still secure and in good condition.
During the casing job the Driller will regularly fill up the casing with mud either through a fill
up line (nodding donkey) or through a tampacker attached to the top.drive.
Q. Why does he have to do this?
At some point, when the casing string reaches a certain weight, the manual elevators and slips
will be changed out for air operated 500 ton slips and elevators. The addition of these tools will
add a couple of hazards to the operation - there will be air lines trailing across the rig floor for a
start. Ensure they are routed so as not to cause a trip hazard. Secondly the height of the joints in
the slips will be a lot higher necessitating the use of platforms for stabbing and for the tong
operator. Be especially careful when working on these platforms and when climbing on and off.
Casing has to be run at a controlled rate and for the longer strings this means it may take several
shifts to get it all in the ground. Complacency must not be allowed to creep in. At shift
handover make sure it's a good one. Brief your relief or be briefed thoroughly. Be constantly
aware of everything and work safely. Never block the Driller's line of vision. Never walk or get
yourself between the joint in the slips and the one coming in the V-door. Never be tempted to put
your hand inside a suspended joint of casing. Be aware of the casing tong operator and what he
is doing - or not doing - and be especially vigilant when assisting him with his tong. Be careful
when returning protectors to the catwalk - are the Roustabouts aware of what you are about to do
and out of the way. Look after yourself and your workmates and everything will go smoothly.

Final Stages & Cementing
The last joint proper in the casing string will be the hanger which will be tailed in by the crane
but there will also be a landing string after it.
Q. What is a hanger? What function does the landing string perform?
Once these have been run you will rig up for a cement job. This will involve putting a cement
head on the landing string then rigging up a line to it from the standpipe manifold. This will be a
high pressure line so the same precautions you apply to high pressure testing must be in place -
safety slings on the chiksans and barriers up.
For the cement job you may be asked to go to the cement room to assist there. It will be loud so
hearing protection must be worn. You may find yourself working near the hopper so a dust
mask, as a minimum should be worn. You may be asked to watch the shakers. Initially mud
will be coming back but at some point the spacer will come back.
Q. What is a spacer? What should be done to it when it comes over the shakers?
One man will stay on the rig floor with the Driller. Keep your eyes open at all times for leaks in
the lines or any other problems. You can also use this time to do some housekeeping.
Once the cement job is over everything will be rigged down, the landing string will be laid-out
and you will start getting ready for the next section of hole.

BOP STACK
The function of the blowout preventer (BOP) is to close the well in for various reasons but
mainly when pressure downhole tries to escape to surface. It normally does this by closing the
annulus around the tubular in the hole although in an emergency it can cut through the pipe in
the hole. Listed below are the various types of seals and how they work.
Ram type preventers are specifically designed to fit only one size of tubular and will not seal
against any other size of tubular or irregularly shaped object.
There are variable ram preventers which will not seal against irregularly shaped tubulars (ie.
spiral drill collars) but will seal on normal round pipe of different diameters.
The annular preventer will seal against any size or shape of tubular, wireline or even open hole
(although it is not recommended to close annular preventer on open hole).
The blind rams close with nothing in the hole and are used by drillers to prevent tools, drill bits
etc. falling down hole when no tubulars are in the hole. They are also closed, sealing off the well
bore when changing the upper rams prior to running casing or tubing etc. They will not cut
tubulars although they will crush them.
Blind/shear rams are used in emergencies such as a blowout through the drill string during
tripping to shear the pipe and seal the well bore. They are not designed to cut at the tool joint
connection. (This highlights the importance of accurate pipe measurements and good spacing of
pipe in the hole).
There are two common sizes of stack used on our rigs (again this may vary):-
211/4 and 135/8. These figures relate to the internal bore of the stack and not the last casing string
that was run. BOP stacks also come with different safe working pressure ratings.
211/4" Stack - The 211/4" BOP stack is utilised during the 17 1/2" hole section after the 20" casing
has been set. The 211/4" stack is usually rated at 2000 psi, or 3000 psi as formations at this
depth are unlikely to produce higher pressures than this there is no need to increase the pressure
rating, the usual configuration is a double U type ram preventer with annual preventer. The
stack usually has one choke side arm with manual gate valve and HCR valve and one kill side
arm with manual gate valve and HCR valve.

135/8" BOP Stack - The 135/8" stack is utilised for all hole sections after the 133/8" casing has
been set. It is also used during completion and workover operations. The usual configuration is
a double U type preventer, single U type preventer, annual preventer. The stack usually has an
upper and lower choke side arm configured as for 211/4 stack and an upper and lower kill
configured as for 211/4" stack (i.e., manual valve, HCR).
Q. How often is the BOP Stack tested?
Q. What item of equipment operates the stack, where is it located, and what are the
pressures used to close a Ram and an Annular?
A typical 135/8 stack might look something like the one shown below:-
ANNULAR PREVENTER
(BAG)
PIPE RAMS
BLIND/SHEAR RAMS
SPOOL
PIPE RAMS
SPOOL
Fig 4 : Typical 13 5/8” BOP Stack
We cannot teach you all you need to know about the BOP stack here as every rig is different.
Find out how the stacks on your rig are configured. You will need to know the difference
between the choke and kill lines and what each valve is for.

WELLHEADS
Typically, Wellheads on modern platforms come in two parts. The first part is installed on the
20" casing and seals in the wellhead seal against the outside diameter of the casing. This seal is
then pressure tested, if the test is good, the 211/4" riser and BOP stack is nippled up and pressure
tested.
On completion of this test the wear bushing is run, this is a sleeve that locates and is tied down in
the wellhead to protect the machined inside diameter of the wellhead from damage caused by the
rotating drill string. The 171/2" hole section is drilled to casing point and prior to running 13 3/8"
casing the wear bushing is retrieved using a special tool. When the casing is run the last joint is
a pup joint with a casing hanger attached. This hanger is a machined tool which mates with a
machined profile in the wellhead and this supports the casing until it is cemented in place. The
hanger incorporates a pack off which is a seal assembly that seals the 20" to 13 3/8" annulus.
Below the pack off, there are two ports diagonally opposite each other which lead out through
the body of the wellhead, through nipples screwed into the ports, to which valves are attached,
these ports can be used for draining the riser and must be open during stack test to ensure that if
the test plug which seats above in the wellhead profile leaks, then the well bore below will not be
subject to test pressure. Water leaking from a side arm during a stack test indicates that the seals
on the test plug are damaged or the plug is not seated properly.
Once the cement job is finished the landing string is back out of the top of the hanger and laid
down. The 211/4" stack and riser are nippled-down and the second part of the wellhead, which
has seats for the 95/8" casing and the where the production tubing is installed, the 135/8" riser and
BOP stack is nippled-up and pressure tested. After the 211/4" hole is drilled the wellhead
accommodates the 95/8" casing as it did the 133/8" casing. The 7" liner which is run is hung off
inside the 95/8" casing so does not have a receptacle in the wellhead. Once the 7" liner is in place
and cleaned out, a production packer is set in the 7" liner and the production tubing is run and
hangs off in the uppermost part of the wellhead and the tie down bolts tightened against the
tubing hanger. The 135/8" stack and riser are nippled down and a bonnet is clamped to the top of
the wellhead and onto this bonnet, the xmas tree is installed. This ends our interest in the well, if
a good pressure test on the tree and bonnet are achieved.
Again, this will vary from company to company and as more technical equipment and operations
change then so will the set-up. The intention is to give you a basic understanding of what
happens when drilling a well – from the Floormans stand point.

SLIP & CUT
A job you will take part in from time to time on the rig floor is slipping & cutting the drilling
line. The reason we slip & cut the drilling line is so that wear on the line is shared along it's
length.
Wear on a drilling line is greatest at it's critical points. These are the places on which strain is
exerted as pipe is run into or pulled out of the hole and includes the top of the crown block
sheaves, the bottom of the travelling block sheaves and at the crossover points on the drawworks
drum where the line turns to go back the other way.
When we slip & cut, the drilling line is moved a predetermined distance, about 112 ft and the
points on the line that were at critical points are moved thus extending the life of the line.
Now you know why we slip & cut the drilling line - the next thing to know is when do we slip &
cut. The amount of wear on the line is closely related to the amount of work involved raising &
lowering pipe - and this work is measured in a unit known as a ton-mile.
If you raise or lower a load of one ton through a distance of one mile then one ton-mile of service
has been performed by the line. The line will be slipped & cut after about 3,000 ton-miles. This
figure along with the length cut will vary from rig to rig and also from company to company.
Find out what those figures are for your rig.
It will not be your responsibility to work out the ton-miles for some time to come yet but you
should be aware of the need to accurately measure the work done by the drilling line.
Find out what jobs affect wear on the drilling line and the sort of ton-miles involved.

That’s the background theory now how is the job actually done. The first thing that will have to
be done is to hang-off the blocks. There will be a hang-off line suspended in the derrick. During
normal operations this will be tied back out of the way.
In order to slip & cut the Driller will stop the blocks level with the hang-off line and one or more
members of the crew will go up either in riding belts or, on some rigs, there is a designated
walkway, and attach the line to the top of the blocks. While this is going on the rig floor should
be kept clear of people in case anything gets dropped. A pre-task/JRA discussion will be held
prior to starting this task.
Once the hang-off line has been secured to the travelling block and anyone in a riding belt has
come down, the driller will lower the block until the drilling line goes slack on the drawworks
drum. It is important that the full weight of the travelling block is held by the hang-off line and
hasn't caught up on anything so a good visual check is important.
The front cover of the drawworks will now be removed and the Driller or Assistant Driller will
mark off on the drilling line where it has to be cut. The line will be spooled off the drum until
the mark is reached, the driller will stop spooling off and the line will be cut. Whoever is cutting
the line will have to wear safety goggles as the blade may shatter or bits of the line may fly off.
(again the JRA!)
Having cut the line the end that is attached to the crown block needs to be secured to something
until it is ready to be put back on. The remaining length of line on the drawworks drum will be
discarded.
The driller will turn the drum as if lowering the blocks and the line can then be spooled off.
Great care should be taken when handling the line as there may be broken wires sticking up.
When most of the line has been spooled off, the driller will stop the drum again and once more
the line will have to be cut.
The section that has just been cut will be sent down to the deck and will be scrapped. Before this
happens you may cut a length (approx. twenty feet) which will be sent to town for testing. Under
normal working conditions a section of line will be sent for testing every 3rd slip & cut.
You will now be left with a small length of line secured to the drum at the anchor point. The
type of anchor point will vary from rig to rig, but needless to say it will have to be loosened and
the last bit of line removed and discarded.
The end of the drilling line that goes to the crown block will now be secured to the anchor point
on the drum. At the same time the bolts that hold down the clamp on the deadman anchor can be
loosened. Once this has been done you are now ready to slip a new length of drilling line into
service.

One man, probably the Assistant Driller or Derrickman, will go down to the line spool which
holds the spare drilling line, and will let it out as required.
The driller will now start picking up on the drawworks (as he would when raising the blocks)
and the line will start spooling back onto the drum. It is very important that the line falls into the
grooves on the drum and also that there is no slack in it.
Once the required number of wraps are back on the drawworks drum, the Driller will stop and
everything will have to be put back.
Firstly the deadman will have to be tightened. A mark will be put on the drilling line at the
deadman which you can use to see if the line is slipping.
The drawworks cover should be replaced and finally the hang-off line will be removed from the
travelling block and tied back.
Once everything has been done the driller will run the block up and down a few times to ensure
everything is O.K. You have now just slipped and cut the drilling line.
Your rig will have a set of written instructions/ JRA for slipping and cutting and you should
make sure you have read and understood them.

WIRELINE OPERATIONS
From time to time the rig will be involved in wireline operations. This will involve running
various tools down the hole on a wireline. There are many different reasons for running wireline
tools such as logging, perforation and completion work. Depending on the operation a slick
wireline unit may be used or an electric wireline unit (Schlumberger).
Electric Wireline Unit
The electric wireline unit (Schlumberger, Dowell etc.) is a permanent feature on the rig and will
normally be positioned so it does not interfere with other operations that go on but still has a
clear line of sight to the rig floor. Radioactive materials and perforations are normally run on
this unit.
Slick Wireline Unit
The slick wireline unit is a portable unit and is normally only brought onto the rig when it is
needed. It will be placed on the catwalk (and secured). The slick unit may be powered by a
separate diesel generator which will sit nearby. During operations the catwalk will be out of
bounds so barrier tape should be put up to prevent people crossing it - this includes you.
During all wireline operations the drill crew act in an assist capacity only. That is you will assist
the wireline crew to rig up and down their equipment on the rig floor. If a tugger/hoist is
required it must be operated by the drill crew and not by the wireline crew. Any slings and
shackles in use must be in good condition, colour coded and rated for the hooks that will be
applied to them. They should be periodically checked to ensure they are O.K.
If a lubricator or BOP is to be used it will have to be pressure tested prior to use so the same
precautions apply as do for all high pressure testing operations. If no lubricator or BOP is being
used then there will be an open or partially open hole. There will be a special hole cover that can
be used during these operations. Make sure it is in place. If there is nothing in the hole then it
should be covered.
As with all operations observation is important. Keep your eyes open for anything out of the
ordinary or in poor condition. Be aware of the line - it will be under tension and stay clear of any
sheaves - they may start moving at any time.

PRESSURE TESTING
Quite frequently on the Rig you will be involved in the pressure testing of various pieces of
equipment.
Should a kick happen, the safety of the Rig will depend on the successful containment of gas or
fluid escaping from the well under pressure. Therefore it is very important that any equipment
which is likely to have to withstand pressures is tested under controlled conditions to check it is
capable of withstanding those pressures. If anything fails for any reason then it can be repaired
or replaced before it may be called into operation at a more critical time.
Pressure Testing operations involve a hazard and therefore will have to be carried out under a
Permit-to-Work. On Aban Rigs there will be a checklist that will have to be adhered to as well
as any instructions the OIM/MIC may give. And remember – the JRA will be discussed prior to
the job commencing.
However, there will be certain procedures and safety precautions that will always be followed no
matter where you work.
Normally pressure testing operations take place from the cement unit to the equipment being
tested through a series of fixed and temporary lines. Although still dangerous, as they are under
pressure, the fixed lines pose slightly less of a risk than the temporary lines.
The temporary lines will either be in the form of special high pressure hoses or chicksans.
Chicksans are lengths of pipe, elbows, swivels and valves that can be joined together to give you
a flexible but strong line for transmitting fluid under pressure.
The fluid that is used for pressure testing is normally water.
When making up a temporary high pressure line you must first ensure that the seals are in good
condition and the threads are not damaged. The unions should be hammered up and then
snubbed. The chicksans on your rig may have clamps near the unions for this purpose or you
may have to use slings and shackles. Check what the procedure is on your rig.

Before pressure testing begins the areas concerned will have to have barriers and warnings signs
put up. These should ideally be 3m or more from any high pressure lines.
A public address (P.A.) will be put out to warn people on the rig as to what is happening and
where. This should be in dual language where applicable You may be asked to stand guard to
prevent people entering a high pressure area.
Once the test begins you could be asked to check the line for leaks. Do this from outside the
barrier. If you do spot a leak inform the driller who will get the pressure bled off so the leak can
be corrected.
NEVER try to tighten a union that is under pressure.
When the pressure test is over and it is time to dismantle the line, always ask if the pressure has
been bled before starting. It is better to be safe than sorry.

TUGGER/HOIST/HOIST OPERATIONS
Operations involving an air or hydraulic powered tugger/hoist /hoist should only be carried out
by a competent member of the drill crew. Before any task takes place using a tugger/hoist/hoist,
a number of checks must be performed.
Any leaks on the tugger/hoist must be checked out by the Rig Mechanic straight away. An air or
hydraulic leak will affect the performance of the tugger/hoist and it must not be used until the
fault has been rectified.
The S.W.L (Safe Working Load) will be stamped on the tugger/hoist. Picking anything up
exceeding the S.W.L should never be attempted.
The Tugger/hoist line should be inspected before every operation for bad kinks or split and
frayed wire. Any damage must be reported straight away, the Tugger/hoist line, Shackles,
Swivel and Hook will all be colour coded to coincide with the rest of the rig lifting equipment.
Any equipment which isn't colour coded or stamped with an S.W.L should never be used.
If in doubt of tugger/hoist capabilities or condition of lifting equipment, do not use the

tugger/hoist before consulting your Supervisor.
The moving of items on the Rig floor using tuggers/hoists is an every day occurrence carried out
by the Drill crew. All tuggers/hoists operate in the same way but speed and sensitivity may vary.
Care should be taken when using a tugger/hoist you have not operated before.
Before picking anything up be sure that the S.W.L on the smallest piece of lifting equipment is
not being exceeded. (i.e. using a 1 Tonne sling on a tugger/hoist rated for 3 Tonne).
Keep your eye on the load being moved at all times. If your vision is obstructed in any way stop
the operation and get a banksman to give you clear signals.
There are various pieces of equipment on the Rig floor that may have to be lifted without a
lifting cap. When this happens care should be taken when moving the load around. Slings must
be applied so that slipping does not occur.
Before picking up & laying any items out of V-door, deck crew must be informed to keep the
Catwalk clear.

The spooling of the wire is also very important. There will either be an automatic spooler or
manual spooler on the Tugger/hoist. Using this is essential so that whether picking up or down it
will be done smoothly. Never put your hand on the rope to guide it as there may be broken wires
sticking out that could cut your hand or worse, your hand may get snagged and pulled in to the
hoist drum (it happens!).
MAN RIDING OPERATIONS
Before taking a man up in a Riding belt a number of things must be checked. The tugger/hoist
being used must be CERTIFIED for man riding. All Safety Checks on the tugger/hoist must be
done.
Here in Aban, manriding is only permitted if controlled under the Permit To Work process
(checklist and supervisor requirement)
Before taking the man up in the belt he must be competent to ensure he is capable of doing the
task. Be sure he is conversant in all Tugger/hoist signals.
The Tugger/hoist Operator and the man in the belt should discuss the job in hand to avoid any
confusion. The Riding belt must be checked to make sure there is no damage ie. webbing cut or
frayed. (Sound like a requirement to use the JRA?)
Any tools being used on the job, spanners etc. must be tied off.
The person operating a man riding tugger/hoist must be deemed competent to do so. You will
not be asked or expected to operate the man riding tugger/hoist while there is a man in the belt
until your Driller is happy that you are competent in general tugger/hoist operations first.
A number of things may prevent the job taking place. If wireline is in progress then a man
should never be taken up in a belt, also never take a man up if the Travelling block is moving.
Adverse weather conditions may prevent job from taking place, mainly on rigs with an open
derrick.
The operator should never leave the tugger/hoist/air hoist for any reason when a man is in the
belt. The man in the belt should be kept in the operators sight. If the operators sight is
obstructed then a banksman should be used. When man in belt is performing a job, the brake on
the tugger/hoist must be applied and no-one should be allowed to work below him on the rig
floor - advise anyone who comes onto the rig floor that there is someone working above.

NOTES

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FLOORMAN TRAINING

COMPETENCY TRAINING WORKBOOK

LEVEL TWO - FLOORMAN

TEAMWORK is essential to your, and everyone on the crew's Safety, and

As a Floorman, you will almost always be working as part of a team, even if

Rev 0, February 2011 1

SOME DO'S & DON'TS

DO NOT leave trip hazards lying about.

Rev 0, February 2011 2

ABOUT THIS BOOKLET

Rev 0, February 2011 3

RIG FLOOR COMPONENTS

Rev 0, February 2011 4

Most rigs nowadays use an “iron roughneck.” This is basically a unit

Rev 0, February 2011 5

The make up tong usually hangs nearest to the doghouse. When

Rev 0, February 2011 6

Rev 0, February 2011 7

IDENTIFY THE FOLLOWING COMPONENTS ON THE DRAWING

Rev 0, February 2011 8

Rev 0, February 2011 9

a) DRILL PIPE SLIPS

Each segment will have a handle on it.

Rev 0, February 2011 10

Rev 0, February 2011 12

- Segment hinge pins for wear or damage.

It is important that you can recognise the different types.

a) DRILL PIPE ELEVATORS

Rev 0, February 2011 13

Q. What angle is the taper on your 5" drillpipe elevators?

b) DRILL COLLAR ELEVATORS

Rev 0, February 2011 14

Q. What is a pick-up/single joint elevator?

Q. What does a hobble do?

Rev 0, February 2011 15

Things to look for are:

a) Check play in segments for hinge pin wear or damage.

b) Ensure lubrication is getting to all serviceable parts.

c) Check pins on latch assembly.

d) Check condition of spring on latch assembly.

e) Check latch mechanism for wear or damage.

Rev 0, February 2011 16

a) the make up tong

and you need to know which is which.

Rev 0, February 2011 17

Rev 0, February 2011 18

Rev 0, February 2011 19

Fig 2 : Pipe Tong

Rev 0, February 2011 20

Rev 0, February 2011 21

Q. Can the Pipe Spinner be used to torque up the connection?

1. Breakage of chain links or rollers.

2. Serious wear to chains or rollers.

3. Lack of oil in lubricator/Filter on air inlet.

4. Check connections for air/hydraulic supply and condition of hose.

5. Check condition of "snub line".

6. Check wear or damage on operating levers.

7. Check for cracks on motor housing.

8. Check all bolts are tight.

9. Service when not in use and store in safe place.