CBLM EPAS Core 2
CBLM EPAS Core 2
CBLM EPAS Core 2
Sector : ELECTRONICS
Welcome to the module in “SERVICE CONSUMER ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS AND SYSTEMS ”.This
module contains training materials and activities for you to complete.
You are required to go through a series of learning in order to complete each learning outcomes of this module.
In each learning outcomes are Information Sheets, Self Checks, operation sheets and job Sheets. Follow these
activities on your own. If you have questions, please don’t hesitate to ask your trainer for assistance.
The goal of this course is the development of practical skills. To gain these skills, you must learn basic concepts
and terminology. For most part, you’ll get this information from the information sheets and TESDA website,
www.tesda.gov.ph.
This module was prepared to help you achieve the required competency in“SERVICE CONSUMER
ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS AND SYSTEMS ”This will be the source of information for you to acquire
knowledge and skills in this particular competency independently and at your own pace, with minimum
supervision or help from your trainer.
Remember to:
Work through all the information and complete the activities in each section.
Read information sheets and complete the self check. Suggested references are included to supplement the
materials provided in this module.
Most probably your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager. He/She is there to support you and show
you the correct way to do things.
If you can demonstrate to your trainer that you are competent in a particular skill, talk to him about having
them formally recognized so you would not have to undergo the same training again. If you have a qualification
or certificate of competency from previous training's, show it to your trainer. If the skills you have acquired are
still relevant to this module, they may become part of the evidence you can present for RPL. If you are not sure
about the level of your skills, discuss this with your trainer.
LIST OF COMPETENCIES
- Soldering Technology
- Reflow soldering
- Wave soldering
- Hand soldering
- RoHS and lead-free soldering
- Nonsolder Connections (terminal block
1. Complete check-up of industrial electronic components, products and systems is conducted and defects are
identified, verified and documented against customer description.
2. Repair/maintenance history is verified in line with the company procedures.
3. Service manuals and service information required for repair/maintenance are acquired as per standard
procedure.
4. Workplace is set/prepared for repair job in line with the company requirements.
5. Necessary tools, test instruments and personal protective equipment are prepared in line with job
requirements
6. Materials necessary to complete the work are obtained in accordance with job requirements.
7. Consumer electronic products and systems are installed in accordance with manufacturer’s instructions,
requirements, and without damage to the surrounding place or environment
8. Devices are tested in accordance with standard procedures.
CONTENTS:
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
It doesn't matter whether you are a short wave listener, an A.M. radio dx'er, into hobby electronics or amateur radio design, the
broad basic principles will still apply. Here we will briefly discuss the radio receiver basics as they apply to:
This electronics tutorials site is totally free for you to use and is financed wholly by click revenue derived from our sponsors
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1. The first receiver built by a hobbyist is usually the plain old crystal radio set. If you are unfamiliar with the design then
check out the crystal radio set page.
2. The earliest receivers built were of the tuned radio frequency TRF variety. Here all the stages were made to tune
simultaneously to the received frequency. Some tuned radio frequency TRF receivers we very elaborate but suffered a number
of disadvantages overcome by the superhetrodyne principle.
3. A superhetrodyne receiver works on the principle the receiver has a local oscillator called a variable frequency oscillator or
V.F.O.
This is a bit like having a little transmitter located within the receiver. Now if we still have our T.R.F. stages but then mix the
received signal with our v.f.o. we get two other signals. (V.F.O. + R.F) and (V.F.O. - R.F).
In a traditional a.m. radio where the received signal is in the range 540 Khz to 1650 Khz the v.f.o. signal is always a constant
455 Khz higher or 995 Khz to 2105 Khz.
Several advantages arise from this and we will use our earlier example of the signal of 540 Khz:
(a) The input signal stages tune to 540 Khz. The adjacent channels do not matter so much now because the only signal to
discriminate against is called the i.f. image. At 540 Khz the v.f.o. is at 995 Khz giving the constant difference of 455 Khz which
is called the IF frequency. However a received frequency of v.f.o. + i.f. will also result in an i.f. frequency, i.e. 995 Khz + 455
Khz or 1450 Khz, which is called the i.f. image.
Put another way, if a signal exists at 1450 Khz and mixed with the vfo of 995 Khz we still get an i.f. of 1450 - 995 = 455 Khz.
Double signal reception. Any reasonable tuned circuit designed for 540 Khz should be able to reject signals at 1450 Khz. And
that is now the sole purpose of the r.f. input stage.
(b) At all times we will finish up with an i.f. signal of 455 Khz. It is relatively easy to design stages to give constant
amplification, reasonable bandwidth and reasonable shape factor at this one constant frequency. Radio design became somewhat
simplified but of course not without its associated problems.
We will now consider these principles in depth by discussing a fairly typical a.m. transistor radio of the very cheap variety.
I have chosen to begin radio receiver design with the cheap am radio because:
(a) nearly everyone either has one or can buy one quite cheaply. Don't buy an A.M. / F.M. type because it will only confuse you
in trying to identify parts. Similarly don't get one of the newer I.C. types.
Just a plain old type probably with at least 3 transformers. One "red" core and the others likely "yellow" and "black" or "white".
Inside will be a battery compartment, a little speaker, a circuit board with weird looking components, a round knob to control
volume.
(b) most receivers will almost certainly for the most part follow the schematic diagram I have set out below.
(c) if I have included pictures you know I was able to borrow either a digital camera or had access to a scanner.
Important NOTE: If you can obtain discarded or broken "tranny's" (Australian for transistorised am radio receiver) by all means
do so because they are a cheap source of valuable parts. So much so that to duplicate the receiver as a kit project for learning
purposes costs about $A70 or $US45. Incredible. That is why colleges in Australia and elsewhere can not afford to present one
as a kit for students to construct.
Such a receiver includes a reflex amplifier and is one which is used to amplify at two frequencies - usually both the intermediate
and audio frequencies.
There are no parts values shown as this schematic is purely for illustration purposes.
VIDEO RECORDER:
AUDIO SIGNAL
Signal flow
Signal flow is the path an audio signal will take from source (microphone) to the speaker or recording device. It is most
frequently in a recording studio setting, where the signal flow is often very long and convoluted as the electric signal may pass
through many sections of a large analog console, external audio equipment, and even different rooms.
Audio signals may be characterized by parameters such as their bandwidth, power level in decibels (dB), and
voltage level. The relation between power and voltage is determined by the impedance of the signal path, which
may be single-ended or balanced.
Audio signals have somewhat standardized levels depending on application. Outputs of professional mixing
consoles are most commonly at line level. Microphones generally output at a lower level, commonly referred to
a "mic level". Consumer audio equipment will also output at a lower level.
Editors designed for use with music typically allow the user to do the following:
The ability to import and export various audio file formats for editing.
Record audio from one or more inputs and store recordings in the computer's memory as digital audio
Edit the start time, stop time, and duration of any sound on the audio timeline
Fade into or out of a clip (e.g. an S-fade out during applause after a performance), or between clips (e.g. crossfading between
takes)
Mix multiple sound sources/tracks, combine them at various volume levels and pan from channel to channel to one or more
output tracks
Apply simple or advanced effects or filters, including compression, expansion, flanging, reverb, audio noise reduction and
equalization to change the audio
Playback sound (often after being mixed) that can be sent to one or more outputs, such as speakers, additional processors, or a
recording medium
Conversion between different audio file formats, or between different sound quality levels
Typically these tasks can be performed in a manner that is non-linear. Audio editors may process the audio data non-
destructively in real-time, or destructively as an "off-line" process, or a hybrid with some real-time effects and some off-line
effects.
While you may be tempted to blame *Big Brother* and some sort of diabolical copy protection scheme, I doubt
that CD dependent behavior has anything to do with a lower intelligence at work. :) More likely, it is a bad
quality control on the pressing. (This assumes your CD isn't one of those which has 85 minutes of music
squeezed into a 74 minute space. See the section: Problems with extended length discs.)
First, check for physical damage or imperfections on both sides of the CD. Even if you find nothing, trying a
replacement disc would probably be a good idea before ripping apart your CD player.
However, it may just be CD which produces an unusually low signal level.
Depending on manufacturer, the signal level from CDs can vary by quite a large amount - maybe 30 percent
(just guessing). Telarc discs were (maybe still are) particularly bad in this regard. CD-Rs are also quite variable
and generally worse than normal CDs. (See the section: Problems reading CD-Rs). If the player is somewhat
marginal to begin with (no way to really predict this), low signal level may mean either it won't recognize the
disc at all or will be subject to skipping, audible noise, and other play problems.
An internal adjustment might help but my advice would be that if it only occurs with a small percentage of CDs,
better to leave well enough alone.
However, a proper lens cleaning won't hurt! See the section: "General inspection, cleaning, and lubrication". If
you really won't sleep knowing there might be something else you can do, see the "General servo adjustment
procedure". I definitely don't recommend attempting to boost laser power - which would be considered a last
resort.
Note that newer CD players and CDROM drives may be more tolerant of damaged discs as well as CD-Rs
(which became popular only relatively recently) - you may just be expecting too much from that 15 year old
machine!
The specifications for the length of an audio CD is just over 74 minutes. I have seen them as long as 78 or 80
minutes which means that some of the basic CD specifications have been compromised - either the track pitch
has been reduced or the track extends closer to the outside edge of the disc - or both. If the track pitch has been
reduced, there could be tracking or audible noise problems throughout the disc. If the track extends closer to the
outer edge, there could be problems near the end of the discs. The player may not these discs at all. Any of the
following symptoms are possible:
No problems. Your player is one of those that is perfectly happy playing really long CDs. Most players will
indeed be unaffected.
The disc may be rejected resulting in the display showing 'disc' or 'error' as though damaged, improperly
inserted, or missing. In this case, the CD player's microbrain simply thinks anything with a total playing time
exceeding 74 minutes and 15 seconds is invalid.
Unless you want to redesign the player, there is nothing you can do to play these CDs. It might only require
changing a single byte in the player's firmware :-).
There may be more of a tendency for skipping, sticking, or audible noise (probably near the end though it could
happen anywhere if the track pitch has been reduced - including inability to read the disc's directory) since the
servos are operating slightly outside their normal range. The actual likelihood of these types of problems are
very slight, however.
It may be possible to adjust the servos as described in the chapter: "Servo Systems and CD Player Adjustments".
As with any adjustments, there is some risk of affecting performance for all discs - or totally messing things up.
Or, if problems only occur near the end of these discs, just don't play them to the end!
The sled on which the pickup is mounted ventures into new territory where no sled has ventured before (at least
on this player). Dirt, gummed up grease, hair, and other garbage may have collected there resulting in the sled
drive mechanism getting stuck. You may hear whirring, buzzing, or clicking as the motor attempts to move the
immovable - or nothing at all. Eventually, the player should probably shut down. In any case, kill power or
remove the batteries to prevent damage to the gears.
CD-Rs (recordable CDs, usually gold on the label side and greenish (or with newer ones like various
PlayStation discs, some other strange color) on the readout side) can be quite variable in quality. They are often
produced on a low cost writer of questionable design and calibration. It is quite common for a CD-R disc to
play/read fine on one drive and not be recognized at all on another. There may not be any relation between cost
of the CDROM drive and its reliability with CD-Rs.
Note that newer CDROM drives (and probably CD players as well) may be more tolerant of CD-Rs (as well as
of damaged normal CDs). 1X and even 4X CDROMs (as well as older CD players) predated the wide
availability of CD-Rs so they weren't designed with them in mind. As a byproduct, newer technology may be
more tolerant of bad normal CDs as well. So, there may in fact be an advantage to using high-X CDROM
drives! So, it still has nothing to do with the high-X part, just that the low level circuits are smarter!
Problems recording CD-Rs
Consistently recording high quality CD-Rs is by no means as fool-proof as reading typical CDs. Any problems
affect the recording quality permanently.
Media - there is significant variability in the quality and consistency of CD-R blanks from different
manufacturers. You may have to experiment with multiple brands to determine those that work for you in your
Recorder - there may be significant variability in the performance of various manufacturer's hardware. High
price may not translate into high quality especially considering the rapid changes in the industry.
Writing speed - while it really should not matter whether you record at 1X or 4X (or whatever your machine
supports), this may not actually be the case. If the servo systems are less stable at the higher rate, the quality of
the recorded information may suffer. Thus, writing at a slower rate may be better - or may not matter. In any
case, experimentation at different writing speeds should determine if this is an issue.
Media cleanliness - you only get one shot. A speck of dust or fingerprint - which might just decrease the signal
to noise ratio when reading a CD - can degrade the writing laser beam resulting in malformed pits (oh no, not
the dreaded malformed pit disease!). Inspect each CD-R blank before inserting it into the writer. Reject it if you
see any visible surface damage or manufacturing defects. Use clean, dry compressed air if necessary to blow off
any dust or fluff. Clean the surface as you would a CD to remove any fingerprints or smudges.
Equipment maintenance - keep the recorder clean - periodic inspection and cleaning similar to that used for CD
players may be needed if it is used in a less than ideal environment - dust, smoke, and cooking vapors can
quickly coat the lens leading to lower quality recordings. Inspect, clean, and replace (as necessary) the caddies
(if used) as well since dirty or damaged caddies can cause problems as well.
Data under-runs - where the recorder does not have an internal buffer of sufficient size (yeh, like 650 MB!), it
expects to be fed at a high enough rate to always have data available to send to the writing laser. Any failure
will likely result in incorrect data being written - and probably a ruined disk. Some recorder software will
simply abort. Even running another application like a screen saver can result in uncertainties with respect to
data availability. When in doubt or where time is available, run the recorder at a slower speed to reduce the
required datarate.
Mechanical shock - locate the recorder on a stable surface - not the top of a printer or other equipment that may
be subject to movement during the duration of a recording session. Any vibration transmitted to the optical deck
may cause a momentary shift in the position of the lens and laser beam reducing the recording quality. Bump it
hard enough and the result will be mistracking and a ruined disk.
Newer portable CD players often offer an extra cost option of an 'anti-skip' capability - usually about 10 seconds
of buffer memory. While there is probably little you can do to repair an electronic or logical problem with this
memory, there are a couple of points to keep in mind which may lead to the repair of problems like erratic anti-
skip performance, noise, dropouts, skipping, and other symptoms dealt with elsewhere in this document.
Anti-skip is actually implemented by reading ahead on the CD and storing up to 10 seconds of digital audio in
dynamic random access memory (DRAM). This has a direct impact on optical deck performance and power
requirements:
To read ahead, the player must actually operate at a higher than normal (1X) speed. Watching a player with this
feature, it would appear to be close to 2X. This puts a greater strain on motors and servo systems so anything in
the optics or servo alignment that is marginal - or even a dirty lens - may result in problems which do not show
up with the anti-skip feature turned off. In addition, there are likely to be more problems reading marginal CDs
or CD-Rs. See the section: CD player with skip buffer fails with some CD-Rs.
Power requirements are also greater with anti-skip on - the spindle motor and servos need to work harder and
the buffer DRAM may require greater power when being accessed. Therefore, weak batteries or an inadequate
wall adapter may result in erratic operation. If possible, try fresh batteries or a different adapter before warming
up the oscilloscope.
You are burning the disc as a speed which does not give the lowest error count with the media you are using -
try faster or slower. Usually 2X write speed gives the best pit structure on the widest variety of media.
Your CD-R burner is in need of calibration or laser replacement, resulting in poor pit shape. Have you tried an
OPC test to see if it is delivering the right power?
I have a Panasonic portable and have experienced the same thing with two Maxell CD-R's received in a trade.
Of the dozens of CD-R's I own, these two, burned by the same person, are the only ones that cause trouble. For
that reason I believe it is not the player but the discs that are "off".
(From: Andy Cuffe (baltimora@psu.edu).)
In skip protection mode the disc is played a double speed so it can keep the memory full. It must be having
trouble tracking these discs at the higher speed, but is able to play them at normal speed. It's either a problem
with the CD-Rs or just the way the player is.
The newest CDROM drives operate at 12X speed or greater. Such performance puts significant strain on the
motors and servo systems. Even 2X speed means substantially higher demands of the electronics and power
Data readout must be flawless. Uncorrectable errors which may not be noticed for audio playback would result
in corrupted files. Thus, anything that is marginal may significantly impact performance. If it still has trouble
with data even at the 1X speed, something may be marginal or there may be a true problem in the decoding
logic or computer interface.
Multi-X performance puts a much greater strain on motors and servo systems so anything in the optics or servo
alignment that is marginal - or even a dirty lens - may result in problems which do not show up with audio CDs
played at the 1X speed. Thus, once a dirty lens is ruled out by cleaning it, some fine tuning of the servo systems
may be needed.
At the high rotation rates used with the latest drives, even the slight imbalance caused by a label that is not
uniform across the disc can result in enough vibration to affect the servo systems and result in an increase in
data transfer error rate, mistracking, or even loss of focus and shutdown. There may be no problem with the
drive itself - just the disc. It may be possible to add a small sticky label to the disc in a strategic location to
improve balance. However, if the label is not very secure, it may fly off due to centrifugal force at high rpms
and create yet another problem inside the drive. Some quick drying paint might be better. If only there were a
tire balancing type machine for CDs!
Power requirements are substantially greater at the higher speeds - the spindle motor and servos need to work
harder and even the electronics may require greater power. Therefore, weak batteries in laptop computers or
CDROM drives operated off of laptop power or an inadequate wall adapter may result in erratic operation. If
possible, try fresh batteries or a different adapter before warming up the oscilloscope.
As with all equipment operated from a batteries, there are specific requirements that must be met for reliable
and safe operation.
Batteries must be of the proper type. Some devices will work on either Alkaline or rechargeable NiCd types.
However, since NiCds put out less voltage than fresh alkalines, there may be a selector switch or the instruction
manual may state that NiCds should not be used. Batteries should be fresh - the motors, servo systems, and
electronics in a CD player or CDROM drive can be a significant load when seeking or spinning up. A weak
battery may cause it to shutdown erratically or never be able to find the selected track. Do not mix new and used
cells. This can result in poor performance and may actually result in damage to the cells where rechargeable
(NiCd) types are involved.
Some CD players use a sealed lead-acid battery pack. For long life, these must be recharged immediately after
use. Leaving a lead-acid battery pack in a discharged condition will significantly shorten its life. And these are
not cheap! A pack for a typical Sony CD player may cost more than $20.
Portable CD player/CDROM drive power considerations - AC adapters
As with all equipment operated from a wall adapter, there are specific requirements that must be met for reliable
and safe operation:
Voltage. The CD player or other device will specify the nominal input voltage. This must be adhered to - you
cannot connect a 3 V CD player to a 12 V adapter (or auto battery, for that matter). It will become toast.
However, not all wall adapters are created equal. Some are very poorly regulated meaning that even though its
label says something like '9V', the actual output may be as much as double this (or more) with no load. This
may not be acceptable. The device may overheat or be damaged or destroyed nearly instantly. Internal
protection devices may blow (if you are lucky!). It is safest to follow the manufacturer's recommendations
(though, admittedly, they may be pushing their own brand of adapter). My rule of thumb is that if the unloaded
output voltage is within about 25% of the specified requirements, it is probably safe to use. However, when
connecting for the first time, be on the lookout for any strange behavior (or strange odors!).
Current. The required current should be stated somewhere - either on the device itself or in the instruction
manual. If only power is specified (i.e., 9 V, 4.5 W), then divide power in watts by voltage to get the current
rating in A. (1 A = 1000 mA). The adapter must be capable of putting out at least this amount of current though
Polarity. All the portable CD players and CDROM drives I know of operate on DC. Thus polarity is critical. Get
it backwards and at best nothing will happen but nothing will work either. However, the equipment and/or
adapter may be damaged - permanently. Internal protection devices may blow - if you are lucky.
Regulation. It is often impossible to determine whether the device expects regulated power or whether a given
AC adapter provides it without tests. There are both types. Higher voltage AC adapters (say, 6 V or above) often
tend to be just rectifier/filter capacitor types. However, low voltage adapters (e.g., 3 V) may have an IC
regulator built in.
As noted in the section: CD player is totally dead, it is easy to destroy a portable device using an improper
power adapter or a universal adapter that is configured incorrectly.
Boomboxes and compact stereo systems
These combine a stereo receiver and a single or dual cassette deck, and/or a CD player or changer, and a pair of
detachable speakers, into a single unit. Most are fairly portable but larger boomboxes and compact stereos may
require a forklift to move any great distance.
While the individual subsystems - CD player for example - are usually relatively self contained electrically
except for a common power supply, mechanically, everything tends to be jumbled together - even on units that
have an outward appearance of separate components. Both cassette transports are usually driven from a single
motor. Getting at the CD player may require removal of both cassette decks, audio amplifier, and power supply.
Working on these is not fun. As usual, take careful notes as you disassemble the unit and expect it to require
some time just to get to what you are after. Be especially careful when removing and replacing the individual
modules if printed flex cables are used for interconnections.
Refer to the relevant sections on cassette transports, loudspeakers, and power supplies for problems with these
units.
Since these do get abused - bumped, dropped, dunked, etc., bad connections, and other damage is very common.
See the sections: "Intermittent or erratic operation" as well as "Audio muting, noise, or distortion".
It seems that more and more consumer devices from pocket cameras to laptop computers are being built with
miniature multiconductor flexible printed cables. Very often one or more traces to develop hairline cracks due to
repeated flexing. In addition, damage from moving circuit boards and modules during servicing is all to
common.
Needless to say, repairing any kind of flex cable is a real pain. I have succeeded by carefully scraping the plastic
off with an Xacto knife and then soldering fine wire (#30 gauge wire wrap for example) to the traces. This
presumes that the conductors on your cable will even take solder. I then cover up the joints with a flexible sealer
for electrical and mechanical protection.
However, you need to make sure that the wire you use can be flexed or that the joint is set up in such a way that
the wire does not flex much - else you will just end up with broken wires pretty quickly.
Here is another alternative if the flexing of the cable prevents the use of ordinary wire for jumpers: Find a piece
of somewhat similar flex cable cable from a dead piece of equipment. Use it to jumper across the high stress
area and then solder it to the other cable with short wires if necessary. Then coat the connections as above.
Soldering from end point to end point if possible may be preferable. Even going to only one endpoint would
reduce the risk of immediate damage and reliability problems in the future.
With multiple traces broken or damaged, you are probably better off replacing the cable entirely. With the
typical flex cables found in CD players, there is often no way to repair a large number of broken traces and
retain your sanity.
CD players are generally nearly silent during play (though they may make a variety of whirring and clicking
noises when loading discs, initializing, or seeking). The only sound normally eminating from inside the machine
during play might be a very faint gritty noise from the focus and tracking actuators.
Thus, a sustained whine would generally be considered abnormal.
Worn spindle motor bearings can result in a high pitched whine. In this case, adding a drop of oil may quiet it
down temporarily but replacement will eventually be needed.
The whining noise may be the laser/chassis assembly resonating with the CD as it spins. Depending on the
model, there is a cure - adding a weight or damping material to the pickup or the chassis to change the resonant
frequency.
To confirm that this is your problem, gently rest your finger on the rotating clamper disk and/or other parts of
the optical deck while it is whining - the whine should change or disappear. If you can locate a particularly
sensitive spot, try gluing a piece of heavy rubber to this location (even if it is the clamper disk) with rubber
cement. If this solves the whine problem, confirm that discs seek and play correctly for all tracks before
buttoning it up.
For more details on Sony problems, see the section: Audio whine (not from speakers) and/or muddy sound with
Sony CD players.
(From: Joel B. Levin (levinjb@gte.net).)
If this were the problem it would be highly dependent on the CD's speed of rotation, which varies as the disc is
played. If it always happened N minutes into the disc and went away a few minutes later as the disc slowed
down (and came back if you repeated the track) I would consider that definitive of a resonance problem.
I would try lubricating the shaft of the spindle motor, and check to see if the motor brushes might be partially
shorted. (not to worry you at this early stage, but sometimes Sony pickups, especially the KSS240 and KSS212
and 213, have resonance problems, often just as the disc is coming to speed.) This is the subject of at least a
It's possible that a loose lens can result in a resonant condition so check that the lens is secure. If it falls out in
your hand, gluing it back in place should solve the whining and prevent a future problem.
Noisy CD player
CD players are not silent despite all the hype to the contrary. The focus and tracking actuators act like voice
coils in loudspeakers produce various chirps and hisses while playing a CD. When seeking, the sled motor adds
its own additional instrumental accompanyment. :)
As they say, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." Assuming it plays CDs fine and has always been this way (or you
don't recall how it was when you first got it), leave well enough alone.
If you do decide to twiddle pots, mark their original position carefully before doing anything! The ones most
likely to have any effect are the gain controls for focus and tracking. Lowering the gain slightly (perhaps 1/8th
of a turn counterclockwise) will reduce the noise level - but may also result in more susceptibility to skipping
from vibration. Turn them too far and the disc will no longer even be recognized. These adjustments don't
generally change on their own so think several times before possibly making matters worse.
Perhaps, putting the CD player in a box padded with sound deadening insulation would be a simpler solution if
the noise bothers you!
Also see the section: CD player whine.
Alignment isn't so bad if you can see the failure line in the old glue or if the lens isn't completely detached.
Otherwise, you will need to compare the orientation with an intact sample of a pickup from the same
manufacturer that uses a similar optical configuration. Just guessing may not work!
I experienced the problems of instant glue when a colleague brought in a Pioneer changer in which he had
attempted to reattach the lens. Looking into the lens, it appeared as though there was an aperture behind it. After
prying the lens back off, it became apparent that the effect was caused by a haze which had formed a sort of ring
around the underside of the lens. Fortunately, multiple cleanings with isopropyl alcohol removed most of it and
allowed the player to recognize and play discs, though I don't think it will ever have quite the same
performance.
Before powering up, check the pickup suspension grommets for wear or deterioration, your discs for serious
warp, and any other mechanical problems that could cause the same thing to happen again. Don't use seriously
warped discs. Replace bad grommets or at least raise the pickup by installing washers under it for testing.
For the most common Pioneer pickups, the highly curved surface of the lens goes into a recess and is a snug fit
so all the glue needs to do is hold it there. There is a flat molded on one side of the lens and this is positioned on
the right side with the pickup held so the motor is at the bottom (though it may not matter at all). Place 3 tiny
dabs of 5 minute Epoxy just inside the lip of the recess 120 degrees apart. After cleaning the curved underside
of the lens with a couple drops of pure isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab and allowing it to dry, place it in
position with a pair of plastic tweezers. Then, gently press it down to seat it. Carefully rotate the lens to align
the flat if necessary. Once the Epoxy cures (give it 10 minutes to be sure!), clean the outer surface of the lens
and reinstall the pickup.
A local radio station uses about 20 Pioneer PD-M510s. I've been replacing a lot of lenses that are starting to fall
out. I usually do a "shake" test, recover the lens and glue it back in place. Not bad considering most haven't
been shut off and have played for 4 years now.
ANSWER:
I have chosen to begin radio receiver design with the cheap am radio because:
(a) nearly everyone either has one or can buy one quite cheaply. Don't buy an A.M. / F.M. type
because it will only confuse you in trying to identify parts. Similarly don't get one of the newer
I.C. types.
This electronics tutorials site is totally free for you to use and is financed wholly by click
revenue derived from our sponsors who mainly advertise at the top of the pages and some other
below. By visiting their different sites you demonstrate your very practical support for this
valuable free site and for our sponsors as well
Electric power, like mechanical power, is the rate of doing work, measured in watts, and represented by the letter P. The term
wattage is used colloquially to mean "electric power in watts." The electric power in watts produced by an electric current I
consisting of a charge of Q coulombs every t seconds passing through an electric potential (voltage) difference of V is
{\displaystyle P={\text{work done per unit time}}={\frac {VQ}{t}}=VI\,}
where
Q is electric charge in coulombs
t is time in seconds
I is electric current in amperes
V is electric potential or voltage in volts
Electric power is transformed to other forms of energy when electric charges move through an electric potential (voltage)
difference, which occurs in electrical components in electric circuits. From the standpoint of electric power, components in an
electric circuit can be divided into two categories:
Active devices or power sources: If the charges are moved by an 'exterior force' through the device in the direction from the
lower electric potential to the higher, (so positive charge moves from the negative to the positive terminal), work will be done
on the charges, and energy is being converted to electric potential energy from some other type of energy, such as mechanical
energy or chemical energy. Devices in which this occurs are called active devices or power sources; such as electric generators
and batteries.
Some devices can be either a source or a load, depending on the voltage and current through them. For example, a rechargeable
battery acts as a source when it provides power to a circuit, but as a load when it is connected to a battery charger and is being
recharged.
Since electric power can flow either into or out of a component, a convention is needed for which direction represents positive
power flow. Electric power flowing out of a circuit into a component is arbitrarily defined to have a positive sign, while power
flowing into a circuit from a component is defined to have a negative sign. Thus passive components have positive power
consumption, while power sources have negative power consumption. This is called the passive sign convention.
Alternating current
The relationship between real power, reactive power and apparent power can be expressed by representing the quantities as
vectors. Real power is represented as a horizontal vector and reactive power is represented as a vertical vector. The apparent
power vector is the hypotenuse of a right triangle formed by connecting the real and reactive power vectors. This representation
is often called the power triangle. Using the Pythagorean Theorem, the relationship among real, reactive and apparent power is:
{\displaystyle {\mbox{(apparent power)}}^{2}={\mbox{(real power)}}^{2}+{\mbox{(reactive power)}}^{2}}
Real and reactive powers can also be calculated directly from the apparent power, when the current and voltage are both
sinusoids with a known phase angle θ between them:
{\displaystyle {\mbox{(real power)}}={\mbox{(apparent power)}}\cos \theta }
{\displaystyle {\mbox{(reactive power)}}={\mbox{(apparent power)}}\sin \theta }
The ratio of real power to apparent power is called power factor and is a number always between 0 and 1. Where the
currents and voltages have non-sinusoidal forms, power factor is generalized to include the effects of distortion
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
1. Materials necessary to complete the work are obtained in accordance with job requirements.
2. Consumer electronic products and systems are installed in accordance with manufacturer’s
instructions, requirements, and without damage to the surrounding place or environment
3. Devices are tested in accordance with standard procedures.
4. Final inspections are undertaken to ensure that the installed devices conforms to technical
requirements.
5. Unplanned events or conditions are responded to in accordance with established procedures
6. Work site is cleaned and cleared of all debris and left safe in accordance with the company
requirements
7. Report on installation and testing of equipment is prepared according to company’s
procedures/policies.
Major appliance
A major appliance, or domestic appliance, is a large machine in Home appliance used for routine housekeeping
tasks such as cooking, washing laundry, or food preservation. An appliance is different from a plumbing fixture
because it uses electricity or fuel.
Major appliances differ from small appliances because they are bigger and not portable. They are often
considered fixtures and part of real estate and as such they are often supplied to tenants as part of otherwise
unfurnished rental properties. Major appliances may have special electrical connections, connections to gas
supplies, or special plumbing and ventilation arrangements that may be permanently connected to the appliance.
This limits where they can be placed in a home.
Many major appliances are made of enamel-coated sheet steel which, in the middle 20th century, was usually
white. The term white goods in contrast to brown goods, is also used, primarily where British English is spoken,
although definitions for the term "white goods" can differ. In the United States, the term white goods can also
refer to linens.[1] In New Zealand "whiteware" may be used, elsewhere a term from pottery.[2] Since major
appliances in a home consume a significant amount of energy, they have become the objectives of programs to
improve their energy efficiency in many countries. Energy efficiency improvements may require changes in
construction of the appliances, or improved control systems.
Types:
A. GAS STOVE
C. WASHING MACHINE
D. DISWASHER
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
A good care and correct use of these appliance provide them a longer running life. Here are few care &
maintenance tips for some important home appliances that we use everyday to ensure an extended life for them:
2. Washing Machine:
Most useful tip for taking care of washing machine is to wash smaller loads. Large loads can lead to early death
of your washing machine. Also do not wash your huge carpets and rubber mats in the washing machine.
Wipe and clean the inside drum of the washer with damp cloth at least once a week. It would remove any kind
of soapy residue, dirt , left threads from clothes etc.
Once you are finished washing and drying clothes, keep the door open to let the moisture and dampness
evaporate. For more tips on washing machine maintenance read “8 tips to take care of your washing machine“
3. Microwave:
Never put any metal utensil or container and not even an object with metal trim inside the microwave. Always
remember to remove the aluminium foil from the food item before putting them inside the microwave to avoid
any fire hazard.
Never heat any flammable food and beverage inside the microwave to avoid fire or explosion.
Do not heat any sealed food container or packed food or beverage item. Always remove the seal first and then
heat items to avoid explosion.
Clean the food spills and stains inside the microwave after every use to avoid any rotten smell.
To read on microwave safety measures refer to “10 microwave safety measures that you must follow”
Just a few minutes of daily simple maintenance of these household appliance will not only give them a longer
operating life but also reduce the amount of money we spent on their service and repair.
But there will be times when these man made helping hand will go out of service and require professional
help.So for any kind of home appliance service likeRefrigerator repair, Washing machine service, microwave,
There are currently almost 100,000 different types of electrical appliance on the market in Finland. Most of
these are appliances that are connected to the power supply using a plug.
Electrical appliances come with a user and maintenance manual. Make sure you follow these instructions and
also keep the manuals for later reference. The user manual teaches you how to use the appliance correctly and
how to get more benefit out of it. Maintenance in accordance with the instructions provided makes the appliance
last longer, reduces the risk of fire and prevents the deterioration of the appliance's properties. If you detect a
fault or malfunction in an appliance, have it fixed right away. If you cannot find servicing instructions in the
manual, take the appliance to a qualified professional. Electrical appliances may be repaired by electrical
installation and maintenance outlets registered by Tukes.
Make sure you follow any restrictions set in the user manual for the place of use and ambient temperature. For
example, the minimum temperature for the premises where a freezer should be placed is usually +10° C. This
means the manufacturer cannot guarantee the safety or functioning of an appliance placed in non-heated
premises in the winter.
You should pay particular attention to electrical safety outdoors. All electrical appliances used outdoors must
always have protective insulation or protective earthing or operate on extra-low voltage. The casing of
appliances intended for long-term outdoor use must be totally watertight.
Electrical appliances should not be stored in humid conditions. Electrical appliances stored in non-heated
premises may be damaged by below-zero temperatures in the winter.
You can take household waste electrical and electronic equipment (WEEE) to a designated collection point free
of charge. Electrical and electronic equipment has the WEEE crossed-out wheeled bin symbol , which tells you
that the item must not be put in the bin with unsorted waste.
Read more about issues such as markings on electrical appliances, light fittings, etc. in the Home electrical
safety guide (in Finnish).
The majority of electrical appliances on the market meet the electrical safety requirements. Hundreds of
products with safety defects are, however, found on the market every year, and a few dozen product types that
can be lethally hazardous are found every year.
Electrical appliances and equipment sold in Finland are supervised by Tukes. Whenever necessary, tests are
commissioned from competent testing laboratories. Safety defects detected in testing can include:
imminent risk of electric shock or fire caused by an electrical appliance;
insufficient protection of the product against direct contact; and
A "Work Order" sometimes is used in place of an "Invoice" or "Statement" and presented for payment requests.
In a manufacturing environment, a work order is converted from a sales order to show that work is about to
begin on the manufacture, building or engineering of the products requested by the customer. In a service
environment, a work order can be equivalent to a service order where the WO records the location, date and
time the service is carried out and the nature of work that is done. The type of personnel (e.g. job position) may
also be listed on the WO. A rate (e.g. $/hr, $/week) and also the total amount of hours worked and total value is
also shown on the work order.
A work order may be a maintenance or repair request from students, faculty or staff in a university.
Orders received from outside an organization are often dispatched (reviewed and scheduled) before being
executed.
Work orders may be for preventive maintenance
Contractors may use a single job work order and invoice form that contains the customer information, describes
the work performed, lists charges for material and labor, and can be given to the customer as an invoice.[6]
A job order is an internal document extensively used by projects-based, manufacturing, building and fabrication
businesses. A job order may be for products and/or services. In a manufacturing environment, a job order is
used to signal the start of a manufacturing process and will most probably be linked to a bill of material. Hence,
the job order will probably state:
Sales order:
he Sales order, sometimes abbreviated as SO, is an order issued by a business to a customer. A sales order may
be for products and/or services. Given the wide variety of businesses, this means that the orders can be fulfilled
in several ways. Broadly, the fulfillment modes, based on the relationship between the order receipt and
production, are as follows:
Digital copy - Where products are digital and inventory is maintained with a single digital master. Copies
are made on demand in real time and instantly delivered to customers.
Build to stock - Where products are built and stocked in anticipation of demand. Most products for the
consumer would fall into this category
Build to order - Where products are built based on orders received. This is most prevalent for custom parts
where the designs are known beforehand.
Configure-to-order - Where products are configured or assembled to meet unique customer requirements
e.g. Computers
Engineer to order - Where some amount of product design work is done after receiving the order
sales order is an internal document of the company, meaning it is generated by the company itself. A sales
order should record the customer's originating purchase order which is an external document. Rather than
using the customer's purchase order document, an internal sales order form allows the internal audit control
of completeness to be monitored as a sequential sales order number can be used by the company for its
sales order documents. The customer's PO is the originating document which triggers the creation of the
sales order. A sales order, being an internal document, can therefore contain many customer purchase orders
under it. In a manufacturing environment, a sales order can be converted into a work order to show that
work is about to begin to manufacture, build or engineer the products the customer wants.
A purchase order (PO) is a commercial document and first official offer issued by a buyer to a seller, indicating
types, quantities, and agreed prices for products or services. It is used to control the purchasing of products and
services from external suppliers.Acceptance of a purchase order by a seller forms a contract between the buyer
and seller, and no contract exists until the purchase order is accepted.
Purchase orders allow buyers to clearly and explicitly communicate their intentions to sellers
Sellers are protected in case of a buyer's refusal to pay for goods or services
Purchase orders help a purchasing agent to manage incoming orders and pending orders
Purchase orders provide economies in that they streamline the purchasing process to a standard procedure
Commercial lenders or financial institutions may provide financial assistance on the basis of purchase orders.
There are various trade finance facilities that almost every financial institution allows to business people against
purchase orders such as:
Before shipment credit facility
Post shipment credit facility
Trade finance facility
Foreign bill purchase credit facility
Bill retirement credit facility
Order Confirmation
Followup
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
1. Personal protective equipment is used in accordance with Occupational Health and Safety practices.
2. Electro-static discharge (ESD) protection procedure is followed in accordance with current industry
standards.
3. Defective parts/components are replaced with identical or recommended appropriate equivalent ratings
4. Repaired or replaced parts/components are soldered/mounted in accordance with the current industry
standards.
5. Control settings/adjustments are performed in conformity with service-manual specifications
6. Repair activity is performed within the required timeframe
7. Care and extreme precaution in handling the unit/product is observed as per procedures
8. Cleaning of unit is performed in accordance with standard procedures
9. Excess components and materials are disposed of based on WEEE directives and 3Rs waste management
program
CONDITION:
The students/trainees must be provided with the following:
May include:
ESD-free work bench with mirror
Variable power supply Oscilloscope, digital
Variable transformer Developed: magnifying glass with lampDocument No.
High-grade
Date
Soldering ELECTRONIC
iron PRODUCTS Flashlight/headlamp
September 20, 2016
ASSEMBLY
Hot air soldering AND SERVICING
station Cleaning brush
Table top reflow oven NC II Soldering wire Issued By:
Developed By: Page 71
Desoldering tools SMD soldering paste of 92
Screwdriver (assorted) Stranded/solid/hook-up wires
Wrenches (assorted) Assorted electronic components Document No.
Allen wrench/key Date Developed:
Assorted electronic sensors
ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS September 20, 2016
Function/Signal
ASSEMBLY generator
AND SERVICING
Mufti-testers
NC II (analog/digital) Issued By:
Page 71 of
Utility knife/stripper Developed By:
92
Pliers (assorted)
ASSESSMENT METHOD:
Date Developed: Document No.
Oral Questioning or Interview
ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS September 20, 2016
ASSEMBLY AND SERVICING
Practical Demonstration
NC II Issued By:
Third-party workplace reports of on-the-job performance by the candidate
Developed By: Page 71 of
92
Hazards exist in every workplace in many different forms: sharp edges, falling objects, flying sparks, chemicals,
noise and a myriad of other potentially dangerous situations. The Occupational Safety and Health
Administration (OSHA) requires that employers protect their employees from workplace hazards that can cause
injury. Controlling a hazard at its source is the best way to protect employees. Depending on the hazard or
1. Avoid wearing loose clothing when working. Sleeves should be fit and shirts
tucked in as much as possible. Remove ties, watches, rings, and other jewelry
from your body.
2. Report immediately injuries or accidents of any type to your teacher.
3. Never put fasteners or any small metal articles in or near the mouth when
working.
4. Never throw tools of any type around. Make sure the sharp edge of cutting tools
are away from the edge of the table or work bench.
Safety Requirements:
Equipment:
1. Weight - Use the lightest weight tool possible to avoid injury. Excessively heavy tools must be equipped with
mechanical support and attached hoses should be supported.
Support - Equip tools with some means of mechanical support so you don't need to hold a heavy tool
continuously while working. If mechanical support cannot be provided, the workstation should be designed so
you can put the tool down or rest it in a holster when it is not in use.
3. Torque Control - High torque requires a lot of force to keep the tool from rotating out of your hand. Torque
settings should be set to the minimum required by job specifications, especially for in-line
and pistol-shaped tools.
5. Span - On two-handled manual tools, like pliers, the open span should be about 4 inches and the closed span
Date Developed: Document No.
ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS September 20, 2016
ASSEMBLY AND SERVICING
NC II Issued By:
Developed By: Page 77
of 92
Make sure the eye protection chosen has the right combination of impact/dust/splash/molten metal eye
protection for the task and fits the user properly
Head and neck
Hazards
Impact from falling or flying objects, risk of head bumping, hair getting tangled in machinery, chemical drips or
splash, climate or temperature
Options
Note
Some safety helmets incorporate or can be fitted with specially-designed eye or hearing protection
Don't forget neck protection, eg scarves for use during welding
Replace head protection if it is damaged Ears
Hazards
Noise – a combination of sound level and duration of exposure, very high-level sounds are a hazard even with
short duration
Options
Note
Hazards
Abrasion, temperature extremes, cuts and punctures, impact, chemicals, electric shock, radiation, vibration,
biological agents and prolonged immersion in water
Options
Gloves, gloves with a cuff, gauntlets and sleeving that covers part or all of the arm
Note
Avoid gloves when operating machines such as bench drills where the gloves might get caught
Some materials are quickly penetrated by chemicals – take care in selection, see HSE’s skin at work website
Barrier creams are unreliable and are no substitute for proper PPE
Wearing gloves for long periods can make the skin hot and sweaty, leading to skin problems. Using separate
cotton inner gloves can help prevent this
Feet and legs
Hazards
Wet, hot and cold conditions, electrostatic build-up, slipping, cuts and punctures, falling objects, heavy loads,
metal and chemical splash, vehicles
Options
Safety boots and shoes with protective toecaps and penetration-resistant, mid-sole wellington boots and specific
footwear, eg foundry boots and chainsaw boots
Note
Footwear can have a variety of sole patterns and materials to help prevent slips in different conditions, including
oil - or chemical-resistant soles. It can also be anti-static, electrically conductive or thermally insulating
Appropriate footwear should be selected for the risks identified
Lungs
Whole body
Hazards
Heat, chemical or metal splash, spray from pressure leaks or spray guns, contaminated dust, impact or
penetration, excessive wear or entanglement of own clothing
Options
Conventional or disposable overalls, boiler suits, aprons, chemical suits
Note
The choice of materials includes flame-retardant, anti-static, chain mail, chemically impermeable, and high-
visibility
Don't forget other protection, like safety harnesses or life jackets
Emergency equipment
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
CONDITION:
The students/trainees must be provided with the following:
May include:
ESD-free work bench with mirror
Variable power supply Oscilloscope, digital
Variable transformer High-grade magnifying glass with lamp
Soldering iron Flashlight/headlamp
Hot air soldering station Cleaning brush
Table top reflow oven Soldering wire
Desoldering tools SMD soldering paste
Screwdriver (assorted) Stranded/solid/hook-up wires
Wrenches (assorted) Assorted electronic components
Allen wrench/key Assorted electronic sensors
Date Developed: Document No.
Function/Signal generator
ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS September 20, 2016
ASSEMBLY
Mufti-testers AND SERVICING
(analog/digital)
NC II Issued By:
Utility knife/stripper Developed By: Page 85
Pliers (assorted) of 92
ASSESSMENT METHOD:
Date Developed: Document No.
ELECTRONIC
Oral Questioning PRODUCTS
or Interview September 20, 2016
ASSEMBLY AND SERVICING
Practical Demonstration
NC II Issued By:
Page 85 of
Third-party workplace reports of on-the-job performance
Developed By: by the candidate 92
Testing Voltage
For example, if you were testing a solenoid to see if it was burned out, you would try putting a small amount of
power through the solenoid. If it was burned out, there would be a break in the circuit, the electricity wouldn't
flow, and your meter would show no continuity.
That is what the resistance part of your VOM does; it provides a small electrical current (using batteries within
the VOM) and measures how fast the current is flowing. For our purposes, it doesn't matter how fast the
current is flowing
To use your VOM to test continuity, set the dial on (resistance) R x 1, or whatever the lowest setting is. Touch
the metal parts of the test leads together and read the meter. It should peg the meter all the way on the right side
of the scale, towards "0" on the meter's "resistance" scale. If the meter does not read zero resistance, adjust the
thumbwheel on the front of the VOM until it does read zero. If you cannot get the meter to read zero, the battery
in the VOM is low; replace it.
If you are testing, say, a solenoid, first make sure that the solenoid leads are not connected to anything,
especially a power source. If the solenoid's leads are still connected to something, you may get a reading
through that something. If there is still live power on the item you're testing for continuity, you will burn out
your VOM instantly and possibly shock yourself.
Touch the two test leads to the two bare wire ends or terminals of the solenoid. You can touch the ends of the
wires and test leads with your hands if necessary to get better contact. The voltage that the VOM batteries put
out is very low, and you will not be shocked. If there is NO continuity, the meter won't move. If there is GOOD
continuity, the meter will move toward the right side of the scale and steady on a reading. This is the resistance
reading and it doesn't concern us; we only care that we show good continuity. If the meter moves only very little
and stays towards the left side of the scale, that's BAD continuity; the solenoid is no good.
If you are testing a switch, you will show little or no resistance (good continuity) when the switch is closed, and
NO continuity when the switch is open. If you do not, the switch is bad.
AMMETERS
Ammeters are a little bit more complex to explain without going into a lot of electrical theory. If you own an
ammeter, you probably already know how to use it.
If you don't, don't get one. Ammeters are expensive. And for our purposes, there are other ways to determine
what an ammeter tests for. If you don't own one, skip this section.
For our purposes, ammeters are simply a way of testing for continuity without having to cut into the system or
to disconnect power from whatever it is we're testing.
To use your ammeter, first make sure that it's on an appropriate scale (0 to 10 or 20 amps will do). Isolate a wire
leading directly to the component you're testing. Put the ammeter loop around that wire and read the meter.
Testing Amperage
Washing
Machine
Repair
PROBLE
MS
COMMON
TO ALL WASHER BRANDS
Washing machine designs vary widely, but there are some things that all washers have in common. For
example, all washers have an electric motor. All washers have both spin and agitate cycles. And since both
cycles are driven by the same electric motor, all washers have some sort of mechanism to change between the
All washers must also have a way of filling the tub with wash water and a way of draining out used wash water.
And incidental to this, all washers must have a way of controlling water level in the tub, to prevent spillage by
overfill or by centrifugal force during the spin cycle.
All washers must (by law) have a mechanism that brakes the spinning basket at the end of the spin cycle, or else
a lid lock to prevent the lid from being opened during or shortly after the spin cycle.
And last but not least, all washers must have a timer that controls and coordinates the start, stop and duration of
the various cycles.
CYCLES
FILL CYCLE
During the FILL cycle, a solenoid-operated water mixing valve opens and allows hot or cold water (or both) to
enter the tub. There is no pump operating at this time; the tub fills strictly from house pressure.
Similarly, there is no heater in your washer; the heat comes from the water heater in your home.
When the water in the tub reaches a certain level, a pressure switch closes the water solenoid valve(s).
Typical Drive Train
WASH/RINSE
(AGITATION)
CYCLE
Agitation will continue for a certain amount of time, which is controlled by the timer. During agitation, some
washers use their pump to circulate water, sucking it from the bottom of the tub and pumping it to the top of the
tub. The pump is driven by the same electric motor.
Also during the agitation cycle, bleach or softener may be automatically added. This is usually done by a
solenoid valve that allows some of the re-circulated water to flush out the bleach or softener dispenser. In some
models there is no water circulation involved; the solenoid simply opens a valve or door that lets the dispenser
contents drop into the wash water. The timer tells this solenoid valve when to open.
after agitation comes a drain cycle, sometimes combined with a spin cycle. During the drain cycle, the pump
sucks water from the tub and sends it down the drain. During the spin cycle, the same motor that drove the
agitator now drives a spin tube
which is concentric with the agitator shaft. The spin tube spins the basket, slinging excess water out of the
clothes by centrifugal force. There is a clutch arrangement which allows the basket to come up to speed slowly.
This prevents a heavy load from being thrown onto the motor suddenly. It also allows a "pre-pump" action; the
water has a chance to drain out of the tub before the basket gets up to speed, preventing the water from
overflowing the edge of the tub by centrifugal force.
Some brands have a partial drain cycle only, then refill and agitate again. Some start spinning and draining at
the same time. Some only drain until the water reaches a certain level, and then start spinning. Most brands have
lid switches that prevent the basket from spinning when the lid is open. Some brands have a lid lock that
prevents you from opening the lid when the basket is spinning.
CAUTION: NEVER BYPASS THE LID SWITCH, EXCEPT FOR TEST PURPOSES. IF IT IS DEFECTIVE,
INSTALL A NEW ONE. THEY ARE THERE FOR A REASON. NO JOKE: I PERSONALLY HAVE A NEPHEW
WHOSE ARM WAS TORN OFF (AT 2 YEARS OLD) BECAUSE OF A BYPASSED LID SWITCH!
FILL SYSTEM
The basic components of the fill system are the hoses, the fill valve, and the pressure or float switch.
The fill valve is simply a solenoid valve that opens when activated and allows hot and/or cold water to flow into
the tub. Most modern washers use dual solenoid valves, which have both hot and cold solenoids in one valve
body. When warm water is desired, both valves open to mix hot and cold.
Typical Fill Solenoid Valve
DIAGNOSIS
In some instances, the screen is non-removable, and you will need to replace the hose or valve. Neither is very
expensive.
Fill Strainer Screens
If the strainers look O.K., set your temperature control to "warm" and set your timer in the fill cycle. Raise the
lid of the washer and depress any lid switch with a pen or screwdriver. Feel the water entering the washer. If it is
too hot or too cold, or if no water is coming out at all, test for voltage across each solenoid coil of the water
valve. It should read 110 to 125 volts.
Checking Voltage across Water Solenoid Valve Coils
If you're
not
getting
power to
the valve,
refer to the wiring diagram for your machine and trace the source of the interruption. Sometimes it's a broken
wire, but more commonly, there will be a problem with the water level switch, timer, lid switch, or temperature
switch. Replace the defective switch.
If your washer is a late-model digital machine with a fill thermistor, a defective thermistor might be sending the
wrong signal to the control board. Replacing the thermistor (they're not too expensive) will usually solve the
problem. The control board may also be defective.
CAUTION: On some brands, you must raise the top of the cabinet to get to the solenoid valve. If your washer has a
mercury-tube type lid switch, raising the top of the cabinet may have the same effect on the lid switch as raising the lid.
Your washer may not fill or cycle. You will need to jumper the mercury switch to perform any tests when the cabinet top
is raised.
As the tub fills, water pressure increases at the bottom of the tub. This pressure is transmitted to the diaphragm
in the water level switch by a rubber or plastic tube.
When the tub reaches the right level, the diaphragm trips the switch, closing the solenoid fill valve and starting
the agitate cycle.
Water Level Pressure Tube
CAUTION: Whenever you
remove the tube from the switch,
or insert the tube onto the switch,
there cannot be any water in the tub or tube. Before you insert the tube onto the switch, blow into the tube first,
to clear it of any water that might have gotten in it. ANY WATER REMAINING IN THE TUBE WILL CAUSE
YOUR WASHER TO OVERFILL, OR PROBABLY EVEN TO OVERFLOW!
DOES NOT STOP FILLING, AND/OR WATER LEVEL KEEPS GOING DOWN
If the house washer drain starts backing up, you get a rooter and clear the drain, right? But some people would
just seal it up so it couldn't overflow, instead of clearing the drain, as they should. (Now, WE wouldn't do that,
would we, folks?)
But that air break between the washer's drain hose and the house's drain pipe is important.
If there is no air break, and the drain system fills with water, it can actually start siphoning water right through
the pump and down the drain. Depending on how bad the drain is backing up, the washer might never fill
completely; the solenoid valve will just stay open and water will just keep siphoning straight out the drain. Or, if
the drain is a little more clogged and the water is flowing more slowly, the washer might fill and start agitating,
but stop agitating after a few minutes and fill some more. This fill-agitate-fill-agitate cycle will continue for as
long as the agitate cycle lasts. And since the power to the timer motor is being interrupted, the wash and rinse
cycles may seem unusually long.
There is a solution, even if you don't want to root out the drain blockage as you should. Your appliance parts
dealer has a drain line vacuum break valve, available for just a few bucks. (Figure G-7) You can cut into your
drain line and install one of these vacuum breaks pretty easily.
When the drain line is under pressure, (like when the pump is pumping out) the flapper valve closes and no
leakage occurs. When the drain line is under a vacuum (like when the drain is trying to siphon it) the flapper
valve opens and air is allowed into the drain line, breaking the siphoning action.
TRUE OR FALSE.Read the statements carefully. Write True if the sentence is correct and False if it is
misleading.
1. Water pressure increases at the bottom of the tub?
2. The solenoid is a valve?
3. The fill cycle raise the lid of the washer?
4. Washer is a late-model digital machine with a fill thermistor?
5. The rotary motion of the motor to the back-and-forth motion of the agitator?
Enumeration
True or False
True
Date Developed: Document No.
ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS September 20, 2016
ASSEMBLY AND SERVICING
NC II Issued By: Page
Developed By: 101 of
92
Steps/Procedure:
Date Developed: Document No.
1. Give information
ELECTRONIC about the Washing
PRODUCTS Machine.
September 20, 2016
2. Demonstrate how to repair a washing machine.
ASSEMBLY AND SERVICING
NC IIdiagnose a problem of a washing machine.
3. Demonstrate how Issued By: Page
Developed By: 103 of
4. Demonstrate how reassemble and test repaired appliance. 92
`
Date Developed: Document No.
Assessment Method:
ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS September 20, 2016
ASSEMBLY AND SERVICING
NC II Issued By:
Discussion Developed By: Page 103 of
92
Observation
Demonstration
Date Developed: Document No.
ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS September 20, 2016
ASSEMBLY AND SERVICING
NC II Issued By:
Developed By: Page 103 of
92
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
Give information about the machine/equipment.
Give information about the washing machine.
Demonstrate how to repair a washing machine.
Demonstrate how diagnose a problem of a washing machine.
Demonstrate how reassemble and test repaired appliance.