1200 Ignition Switch Shots: Rudy's GL1200 Photo Reference Pages

Rudy's GL1200 Photo Reference
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1200 Ignition Switch Shots

revised April 19 , 2007
last
Reference pages are not intended to provide full procedural guides. They are
merely photos and comments, many submitted by others who have contributed
them out of interest in helping others see what might help them in the same
situations or if they just have interest in the subject matter. I attempt to regulate
what is placed here and may add my own comments but bear in mind these are in
no way guaranteed to be tested by me. Think of them as potential, future, Photo
Guides under construction for your reference only.
Thanks goes to the contributors who are the reference point for anything listed as
submitted by them.
This content was graciously contributed by, and requested to be posted here, with
the permission of: yelnats69
----------------------------------
Symptoms of a faulty ignition switch are:-
Total loss of all electrical power, on the road, when the key is jiggled, handlebars turned from lock
to lock when you apply pressure around the bottom cover and cables. The bottom of the switch
feeling warm. General electrical problems, remember this is the main artery to the battery, all
circuits run via the ignition switch one way or another.
Note, if the key feels loose (does not click in each position) then it is a problem with the ball
bearings that lock each key position) located between the switch base and the contacts.
Unfortunately you probably will have to replace the switch
Normally
There are two types of switches on the 84 models (late models have the 3 screws, but can still
suffer from poor contacts).
One is held together by three plastic clips built into the cover; the other Honda added three screw
in addition and two
clips.
Above clip type with smooth back

Above modified type with 3 screws
Below modified cover showing the ridge and 3 screw locations
It easy to identify what one is fitted to your bike put you fingers down behind the ignition switch, if
it is smooth you have the problem recalled switch if there is a ridge then you have the later
version.
The recall is still current, but you have to push the issue or find a really good dealer that cares
about customers. (mine don’t so if you do post the dealer on the Forum).
Honda recognized the safety hazard and promised to keep the recall till ALL faulty switches have
been swapped out, there was no time limit.
The problem lies within the construction of the switch the contacts are spring loaded, and tend to
try to force the switch apart, the cover is supposed to hold the whole thing together with a small
lip on the center shaft, but the cover applies pressure via the soldered cables on the back of the
switch and a tiny movement over the years is enough to cause the problem..
The cover wears loose and the switch halves try to separate causing less pressure on the contacts,
arcing, heating and melting of the plastic, you know the rest.
Hence the modification from Honda adding an extra 3 screws to secure the cover and a better
bracket to stop the cables pulling on the switch when handle bars are turned to full lock.
But over time even the modified version can go the same way, it’s important that the cable is
firmly secured to the bracket to avoid strain on the switch.
The switch is tricky but not too difficult to remove, (held on by two 10 mm bolts accessed with a
couple of long 3/4 or better still 1/4 extensions and a swivel socket from under the fairing.
When the bolts are out the switch can be pushed downwards and wriggled out, If you remove the
right hand glove pocket (4 Phillips screws) then the left cover clips off, and the rubber splash
guard can be gently slid f from the two holding pegs you can create plenty of room to get to the
plug that connects the ignition loom to the main loom.
There are also a couple of cable ties that have to be removed (note the position and don’t forget to
install new ones)
One a simple modification to keep
the
Switch halves snug is to add a self tapping screw to the center size SS4 x 3/8 (Ace hardware 5
cents).
If you decide to inspect your switch,
Remove the 3 screws (if fitted)
Bend back the cable support tabs or remove the cable tie on 3 screw version
Place the key in the switch turned to ACCS position.
Press the 3 tabs of the cover in with a blunt screwdriver (two on the 3 screw version).
Remove the contact switch assembly from the housing.
The switch can be prized clicks open, watch for small parts.
There are 3 copper contacts and 4 springs

Inside the switch
The two smaller diameter springs fit the long contact and be the same length and the same
strength.
The two larger springs should match each other also.

The contacts.
If the contacts are damaged, beyond a general cleanup I understand that you can order just the
electrical switch and cables from Honda.
Or if you are really lucky get it swapped out under the recall.
On the left is the modified switch insert, note the two tags at 11 0/clock and 1 o/clock
They do not interchange, the left is the 3 screw version and the right is the original callback
version.
One point is before you put the glove pocket and covers back, turn the handle bars to full left and
right lock, and make sure that the cables do not interfere or strain and that you have them neatly
tied and out of the way.
I hope this has helped, if anyone needs more information or a better explanation or the photos let
me know.
Thanks to the members that have contributed information. I have tried to put all the information in
one message.
Please feel free to copy and distribute this information.
(yelnats69)
84 Aspy
I have the cable diagram and contact test somewhere buried on my hard drive, as soon as I can
find it or someone re-sends it to me I will add it to the message board.

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Pages Main Guides Page

1200 Ignition Switch Shots

Symptoms of a faulty ignition switch are:-

Above clip type with smooth back

Below modified cover showing the ridge and 3 screw locations

One a simple modification to keep

If you decide to inspect your switch,

Remove the 3 screws (if fitted)

Place the key in the switch turned to ACCS position.

Remove the contact switch assembly from the housing.

The switch can be prized clicks open, watch for small parts.

There are 3 copper contacts and 4 springs

The two larger springs should match each other also.

Please feel free to copy and distribute this information.

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