World of Textiles Europe
World of Textiles Europe
World of Textiles Europe
Europe
References Special Issue www.monforts.com
Competence in
Technical Textiles AHEAD OF PROGRESS
Monforts customers featured in this issue: Cover : The Monforts “Digital Twin” with
Arta, ATB, Bethge, Boyahanesi, BWF, Hugotag, GTA, Mariani, Smart Services and Smart Controls for
the highest productivity and availability.
Riopele, Schoeller, Tapetex, Tinfer, Van Clewe, Vaz da Costa.
Virtual monitoring
On request, Monforts can also
virtually monitor machine
performance and pro-actively
alert customers to the need for
preventative action. In such
cases, however, data is only ever
called from the cloud by
Monforts when customers have
given their full consent, in the
interests of data security.
Data from Smart Check,
for example, can even be used to A modern coating range with an integrated
Monforts texCoat unit installed in Germany.
analyse a system’s energy
requirements, allowing machine
operation to be optimised by systems and Eco Applicator, These very different materials,
tailoring production runs to texCoat and Allround coating however, have one thing in
the peaks and troughs of units. common – they all require expert
electricity costs. coating and finishing for
The Monforts digital twin Coating advances maximum efficiency and the
system and apps, along with our Since we acquired the coating technology to allow for ultimate
Qualitex control system, are being technology that our texCoat and flexibility and the ability to switch
made available for all of our Allround systems are based on in quickly from one fabric formula to
machine ranges going forward, 2015, Monforts has also made a the next, without compromising
including Montex stenters, lot of refinements resulting in on the economical use of energy
Thermex and E-Control higher coating accuracy and the or raw materials.
continuous dyeing ranges, resulting quality of the treated
Monfortex and Toptex shrinking fabrics, especially for manufac- Modules
turers of technical textiles. The introduction of the latest
Technical textiles are extremely Monforts multi-functional coating
diverse in their end-use heads for the company’s
applications and manufacturers industrial texCoat and Allround
can be called upon to quickly coating units offer an unprece-
produce a succession of dented range of options, with
materials with widely differing modules available for:
properties and performance • Screen printing.
applications – often within a • Magnetic roller coating.
single shift. • Knife coating (two versions
For customers of Monforts, for differing applications).
these range from substrates for Monforts is also now offering the
digitally-printed soft signage to coating roller for the texCoat and
carbon fabrics for today’s high- Allround coating units as an
performance composites, and optional carbon fibre version, in
from filter media which must order to meet even the highest
perform in extreme temperatures level of coating accuracy that is
to flame retardant barrier fabrics. being demanded by the most
Then there are the heavy duty exacting customers today.
membranes which are employed The carbon rollers provide the
in the collection and storage of extreme stiffness necessary to
methane in biogas plants, as well deal with the winding tension
as materials equipped with required in the processing of
sensors and electrical conductors materials such as prepregs for
which are now used as base composites and other
liners in DSC solar cells, to name heavyweight fabrics, but at the
just a few examples. same time, a significant
Absolute print
quality guaranteed
Having installed its first Monforts Montex stenter just
two years ago, during 2019 Germany’s GtA has installed
two more – as it runs 24 hours a day to meet unprece-
dented demand from the digital printing market.
A new standard in pure white, with a 3.6 metre wide, seven- With two production plants in
100% clean and fault-free textile chamber Monforts Montex Germany and headquartered at
substrates has been demanded in stenter, purpose-built at Montex Gross-Zimmern, close to Frankfurt,
recent years by the rapid growth GmbH in Austria. Georg and Otto Friedrich has a
in digitally-printed banners and Building on the success of this monthly production of more than
hoardings – often referred to as installation, the company has this 450 tons of warp knits – the
‘soft signage’. year installed two more Montex equivalent of around six million
lines – both with an expanded metres – for a range of end-use
Purpose built working width of 5.6 metres – a applications, including garments,
In response to this demand, GtA six-chamber unit for further automotive interiors and technical
(Gesellschaft für textile washing processes and a five- textiles, in addition to digital
Ausrüstung) formed in 2016 chamber line for coating. printing substrates.
and erected a purpose-built GtA is run by a seasoned team It is for digital printing, however,
plant on a greenfield site in of textile professionals led by in addition to certain interior
Neresheim, Germany. Managing Director Andreas Niess, fabrics, which are washed and
The plant was first equipped with the backing of Georg and treated at the Neresheim plant,
with a fully-automated 72 metre Otto Friedrich – one of the largest that GtA was established.
long installation comprising a manufacturers of warp knitted “I have worked with other
washing machine integrated textiles in Europe. stenter manufacturers in the past,
Quality Inspection
The new Monforts Montex coating line installed
The first entire finishing line is and awaiting commissioning earlier in 2019.
controlled by an EVA quality
inspection and control system In addition, GtA has purpose- Otto Friedrich and its many
which analyses every square designed the automatic chemical distributors and partners ready to
metre of fabric to ensure mixing and dosing system that be printed.
completely uniform and blemish- feeds to the padder for the seven The finished rolls are automat-
free production. key treatments that are carried out ically glued with RFID labels and
Another distinctive feature of on the fabrics through the stenter. embedded in to the company’s
the line is the proprietary addition “Here too, we have an extraor- own system.
to the Monforts air-to-air heat dinary precise quality control and GtA started production in
recovery system which is now usability,” explains Andreas February 2016 and for the
standard with Montex stenters. Niess. “Our daily philosophy is first five months ran a single
The first GtA line is also zero mistakes enforced eight-hour shift. In July 2016 this
configured for air-to-water heating throughout the company.” was increased to two eight-hour
to save considerable energy in Also fully automatic, are the roll shifts daily and since January
washing operations. inspection tables after the winder 2017, the company has been
The complete demand for hot and a robotised cutting and operating a three-shift system
water is generated by the heat packaging system which converts 24 hours a day.
exchanger which also ensures the master rolls down to 75,100, Now it will have greatly
surplus water for heating the 200 or 300 metre packages to be expanded capacity, such is the
building and the roof. despatched back to Georg and demand for its fabrics. ●
Not so long ago there were just One company that was quick with the rise of fast fashion.
two fashion seasons per year, but to recognise and respond to the These customers are, says
with the advent of ‘just in time’ emergence of fast fashion is ATB company founder Mário Mano,
manufacturing and the optimi- – Acabamentos Têxteis de extremely demanding in terms of
sation of supply chains, the Barcelos – established in 1985 in quick turnaround.
timescale in the latest designs Barcelos in northern Portugal. “The deadline is always
moving from the catwalks to the The company is dyeing and yesterday,” he jokes, “but
high street stores has been finishing between 36-40 tons of the key to staying successful
drastically shortened. Internet fabric on a daily basis for key is in new technology investment
retailing has only accelerated customers including Benetton, and at the same time new
expectations and with the advent Esprit, Mango, and also Inditex – fabric developments.”
of digitisation, the era of 52 the textile logistics chain behind At the time of WOET’s visit, the
micro-seasons per year is very the hugely successful Zara company was keeping busy with a
much upon us. brand which is synonymous huge €1.5 million order from
Switzerland’s long hot summer of Nestled in the foothills above worth of damage, with the Bethge
2017 – the hottest for over a Zofingen, the Bethge plant was in plant taking the brunt of it.
century, with temperatures the direct line of a 1.6-metre-high
soaring as high as 34°C wave which thundered down onto Crisis meeting
throughout May and June – was the town when a dam above it The following week a crisis
violently interrupted in the first finally burst its banks. meeting was held by the directors
weekend of July when heavy “It was unbelievable in its of the family-owned company and
storms finally broke. ferocity,” said Mr Katzenstein. “It it became clear that its finishing
Particularly badly affected was crashed right through the steel lines – including the existing
the town of Zofingen in the doors of the plant and completely Monforts stenter and shrinkage
canton of Aargau, where Bethge engulfed our machines. Almost range – would have to be
AG Textilveredlung has operated everything was destroyed.” completely replaced.
as a commission fabric finisher “It really looked like the business
since 1834. Chaos was finished unless we could
More than 450 rescue workers resume operations in a very
Hail were mobilised to deal with the limited amount of time,” Mr
“It started with the hail,” recalls chaos in Zofingen, with the Katzenstein said. “For many years
the company’s plant manager electricity down, the railway we have specialised in the
Frank Katzenstein, “the most station underwater and the finishing of woven textiles for third
fierce hail storm I’ve ever seen, motorway around the town party brands and distributors,
with stones as long as four closed in both directions for primarily based on cotton and
centimetres. This was enough to many hours. Miraculously, linen, as well as some polyester
close all of the local roads and although a number of people and polyamide. These are
then the rain started and just were taken to hospital, nobody destined for the home and hotel
didn’t stop – and the flooding and was killed, but the freak storm tableware and bedding markets in
landslides began.” had caused millions of francs Switzerland, Austria and Germany.
Zero defects
‘a la lyonnaise’
Monforts technology is providing major benefits
for the French luxury brands fabric supplier
renowned for its know-how in silk finishing.
Quality is the number one The five-chamber Montex 8500 “The fabrics are very delicate and
requirement for Hugotag, a machine at the Fourneaux plant is require a sensitive treatment when
specialist French finisher of silk equipped with newly-developed being pinned into the stentering
fabrics to many of the world’s 24-inch visualisation monitors, chain, as well as very gentle drying
most prestigious luxury brands. providing total, intuitive – without the fabrics ever touching
Now a member of the Chanel automation and surveillance via the nozzles and with absolutely no
Group, the company in its the Monforts Qualitex 800 system. air turbulence in the dryer.”
present form represents the “The humidity of the air inside
merging five years ago of two Precision the stenter is crucial for ensuring a
former silk businesses – Tag, “It’s an excellent machine,” says perfect quality fabric feel,” adds
founded in 1974 in Fourneaux, Hugotag Director General Philippe French representative for Monforts,
close to Lyon, and Hugo Soie, a Magat. “The key parameters for Christophe Monel, of Monel
St Etienne-based company with a us include homogenous drying Industrie Services.
200-year history. over the length and width of the
machine and precise control of Fine silks
Consolidation the tension of the fabric, because Hugotag is finishing some very fine
Investment in new equipment has the silk has a natural elasticity, silk fabrics indeed – sheer muslins
followed the merger and consoli- even without the addition of that can be as light as 14 gsm,
dation of the companies at the elastane. The Monforts stenter along with chiffons, and heavier
Fourneaux site, including allows us to completely control satins and twills. The weights of the
advanced digital printing the tension from the fabric entry more delicate fabrics are usually
machines, as well as the instal- right through to the winding between 20-50 gsm, and produced
lation of a finishing line centred on machines – and we have special in average widths of 90 centimetres
the latest Monforts Montex 8500 units for winding onto small rolls to a maximum of 1.9 metres on the
stenter and a Matex padder. too.” 3.2-metre wide Monforts finishing
Hugotag Director
General Philippe Magat.
Historic legacy
Like its equally famous counterpart
in Italy – Como – Lyon has histor-
ically been associated with silk
fabric production, and all of
The five-chamber Montex 8500
Hugotag’s fabrics are still woven
machine at the Fourneaux plant is
locally. Piece-dyeing was equipped with newly-developed
introduced in Lyon and became an 24-inch visualisation monitors.
industrial process in the mid-18th
century and for a long time can now do it successfully,” says computer-controlled machines
remained a speciality of the region. Philippe Magat. “More than like the Montex 8500 still can’t do
Screen-printing is meanwhile anything, however, zero defects are – and perhaps never will.
sometimes known as ‘a la our objective, and this is Hugotag still relies on the keen
lyonnaise’ because Lyon is something the new highly- eyes of its specialist quality fabric
acknowledged as the first region to automated and computerised control inspectors who have
industrialise the process during this Monforts line is allowing many years of experience, rather
same period. us to achieve. than digital optical inspection
And although there still remain “We don’t need to run at high systems that are readily-available
other silk finishers in France, speeds, and average 15-20 metres on the market.
Hugotag is one of only two to carry per minute, because the priority is “At this level of quality, it’s a skill
out the ‘degumming’ of the silk perfection. Our customers are very machines are simply unable to
fabrics using ‘Marseilles Soap’ – a discerning and even the smallest of replace,” Philippe Magat
chemical-free formulation based on defects can result in returns, which concludes. “Through many years
100% olive oil, developed long we simply can’t afford to allow to of experience I am able to spot
before the concept of sustainability damage our reputation.” even the smallest detail that the
was even known. average eye simply can’t see –
“It’s a very specific treatment and The human touch and so can the specialist team
because the fabric is so very It is reassuring to know, however, working here. Our exclusive
delicate it’s very difficult to do on that there are still some things customers would expect nothing
an industrial machine, but we that highly-automated and less.” ●
Trusted quality
from Catalonia
Spain’s circular knits finishing specialist has recently taken
delivery of a new Montex stenter at its Barcelona plant.
In opting to partner with Monforts Specialist are subsequently supplied to
for the supply of its third fabric Tinfer has adapted over the years garment makers for the global
stenter, commission dyer and from being a supplier of brands and retailers and the
finisher Tinfer put service – along commodity textiles to company is a firm believer in
with the proven reliability of establishing a reputation as thinking global while acting local.
advanced Montex stenters – at the Spain’s specialist in swimwear “The emphasis can only be on
top of its list of priorities. and sportswear – and especially constant high quality, which our
Founded in 1973, originally in the dyeing and finishing of customers expect as standard,”
as Tintes Fernández, in Arenys circular knits with a high degree says General Manager Xavier
de Munt, the company shortened of stretch, based on elastanes Alabau Basart, who is the son in
its name, expanded and with polyesters, polyamides, law of the company’s founder
relocated to its present plant in cottons and their blends. Juan Fernández. “This in turn
Pineda de Mar just down the While 90% of its customers are relies on both our own high
coast from Barcelona at the third party distributors in standards and working with
beginning of the 1980s. Catalonia, the fabrics Tinfer treats trusted suppliers. We needed to
Two-way trust
Having only recently invested in what is now the largest
Monforts Montex stenter installation in Europe, Portugal’s
Riopele has placed a new order for a further machine of similar
dimensions to become operational during 2019.
As the owner and third-generation period, and the two-way trust that 2016 the company, with 1,025
chairman of Riopele – a company is necessary today, to ensure our employees, achieved an average
established by his grandfather mutual success,” says Mr Oliveira. annual turnover of €71 million
with just two water looms in 1927 “We endeavour to be ahead of the with an EBITDA margin of 8.5%.
– José Alexandre Oliveira has field, and key drivers for us are In 2017, Riopele enjoyed its best
adopted a successful strategy of currently the new possibilities year to date, with sales climbing
forming much stronger ties with offered by Industry 4.0 and digiti- to €74 million and an EBITDA of
both customers and suppliers in sation, in addition to the push 15%. The headcount at the plant
recent years. towards a circular economy.” in Pousada de Saramagos near
Riopele’s customers, it should It’s certainly a strategy that is Porto has meanwhile increased to
be emphasised, are some of the paying off – between 2012 and 1,069 people.
biggest high-end and luxury
brands in the world, including
Armani, Hugo Boss, Burberry,
Calvin Klein, Karl Lagerfeld,
Massimo Dutti, Paul Smith,
Versace, Max Mara, Victoria
Beckham, Sandro and Maje.
Mutual success
“We now have a closeness with
these customers that would have
Riopele’s four-hub
been inconceivable six or seven Pousada de Saramagos
years ago, and it’s based on how Riopele chairman José plant extends over an area
the industry has changed over that Alexandre Oliveira. of 140,000 square metres.
Vertical
Entirely vertically integrated, from
raw material to finished fabric,
Riopele has a monthly output of
around 700,000 metres of fabrics
based on synthetic, natural and
recycled fibres, with a speciali-
sation in polyester, viscose and
elastane blends. Production is 24
hours a day, over three shifts and
the company’s key fabric brands
are Çeramica, Çeramica Clean,
Tecnosilk and Tenowa.
Riopele’s strategy of close The 12-chamber Montex stenter has a
full installation length of some 70-metres.
partnerships also extends to its
technology suppliers. Over an
area of 140,000 square metres,
the four-hub Pousada de
Saramagos plant is equipped with
some 30,000 spindles, ten
winding machines and over 60
twisting machines, as well as 204
weaving machines.
The company’s finishing
operations are divided into three
stages – preparation, dyeing and Special J-boxes at the Montex
finishing – with a wide variety of stenter’s inlet and outlet allow
for the gentle storage of a
processes enabling the fine tuning high volume of material.
of colour, touch, gloss, look,
function and fluidity. the stenter’s inlet and outlet, for brands – they can no longer show
the gentle storage of a high garments that will be available in
Partnership volume of material. The special six months’ or a year’s time,
As long-standing partner with heat recovery system was also because consumers are now
Monforts, Riopele has a variety of tailored specifically to the geared to having things they want
the German machine builder’s company’s needs, based on immediately. These expectations
equipment, and dominating the detailed calculations.” have totally changed how
finishing department is the latest The next ten-chamber Monforts everyone operates along the
Montex stenter, with 12 chambers Montex stenter which is currently entire supply chain.
and a full installation length of being built will be operational this “Our ongoing investment in
some 70-metres. The line was year, as part of a new €10 million technology is critical to keeping
installed as part of a €14 million investment plan. ahead in the market, but just as
investment programme between “We need close relationships critical is our investment in our
2014-16. with the suppliers of our people,” he adds. “Building on our
“This stenter combines equipment, who we know know-how of 91 years and
production efficiency with to be the best in the world,” passing it on to the coming
excellent energy efficiency, says Mr Oliveira. “When partners generation is of extreme
ensuring a continuous production like Monforts develop something importance. This is being
flow with a positive impact in new, we trust them to tell us achieved through our internship
terms of delivery time,” notes about it straight away so programme, research and
Fernando Araújo, of we can incorporate it into our development programmes with
Maquicontrolo, the Monforts forward planning. research centres and universities,
agent for Portugal. “Monforts and special initiatives such as an
worked closely with Riopele’s Technology and people open space R&D hub, bringing
technicians on the special design, “It’s no longer like in the past, together our research,
which has a number of unique when you would wait until the development and product
features designed according to next ITMA to discover what they engineering teams.
their specifications. These include, were unveiling. This is just the “All of this equips us for future
for example, special J-boxes at same as the expectation from the success,” Mr Oliveira concludes. ●
Standards
Manufacturing in Switzerland,
of course, comes with environ-
mental responsibility – the country
has consistently ranked Number
One worldwide in the Environ-
mental Performance Index (EPI)
and as a consequence, Schoeller
has had to meet standards even
Inspection boards
for textile excellence
The exclusive wallcovering collections of Tapetex are to be
found in the very best guest rooms of the world’s finest hotels,
in executive boardrooms and offices and in top-of-the-range
luxury new housing developments across the world.
As family-owned company with a “Our aim is to always come up Specialisation
50-strong workforce at the plant in with materials that other “We opted from the start to
Helmond, The Netherlands, companies simply can’t make,” concentrate solely on wallcov-
Tapetex takes the finest fabrics of said Managing Director Bart van erings and our collections are
Europe’s most advanced weaving den Broek, whose father founded now well known to architects
mills – pure silks, linens, the company in 1975 as a trading Ωand specifiers worldwide.
jacquards, wools and suede – and operation, before deciding to Manufacturers for other markets
turns them into unique collections bring full finishing processes in- attempt to enter the field quite
via a combination of in-house house a decade later, in order to often, but find it harder than they
design know-how and advanced be completely in control of anticipated because it’s a complex
finishing techniques. quality and the just-in-time distri- market. They come and go.”
Since 1975 Tapetex has been bution network. The Tapetex plant is equipped
considered the master in the field with all of the latest technology
of textile wallcoverings, with for laminating and embossing,
sustainability and quality as its dyeing, double-sided coating and
main focus. All products are heatsetting, crushing, flocking,
made from natural and renewable laser engraving and digital and
fibres such as linen, silk, cotton, conventional printing, including a
viscose and only in exceptional Monforts Thermex dyeing line for
cases are man-made fibres used, both wovens and nonwovens.
if there is not yet a sustainable The company’s latest digital
alternative. The company runs a printing line is capable of simulta-
100% water-based production neously printing three different
facility in which PVC, solvents, Tapetex Managing Director designs on 110 cm diameter
plasticizers etc., are banned. Bart van den Broek. jumbo rolls.
Recently, a 2.2-metre-wide, six
Operator view of the stenter. chamber Monforts Montex
stenter has been installed in a
new 4,000 square metre
expansion at the Helmond site.
“An older stenter is still being
used for more limited runs,” said
Mr Van den Broek, “but with the
new Montex line we can do much
more. It has allowed us to
introduce a number of new
processes that were previously
not possible.
“We can run coating and
finishing processes that need
better temperature, moisture, and
air speed parameters in a much these fabrics, so we rely on the anywhere in the world in a matter
more controlled way.” best computerised technology.” of days,” said Mr van den Broek.
The Tapetex collections are “We have established a very good
Reliability and repeatability generally subtle and subdued, logistics network worldwide.”
It is one of the most meticulously with an understated appearance The company’s latest collection
clean plants in the world, and as often belying the sophisticated is based on both wetlaid and
an extra measure, all fabrics are techniques behind their creation. spunbonded nonwovens.
brushed as an initial step in A material like Belle Epoque, for “Again, many of these
eliminating dust and potential example, is a tri-dimensional products are supplied in several
contaminants prior the start of the suede wallcovering which has laminated layers with several
finishing and converting steps. intricate laser cut patterns coatings and usually double-
“We need to be sure every revealing the nonwoven base calendered to provide the perfect
metre of fabric is perfect from the fabric and with silver and gold finish we need,” Mr van den
first to the very last of a touches imprinted around its 3D Broek explained.
production run,” said Mr van den crenulations. “Our nonwovens collections are
Broek. “It’s about reliability and Tech Inspirations, meanwhile, is not cheap, but the materials fall
repeatability. a linen which has been cleverly between the general market for
“The Montex 6500 stenter has embossed in variated grid lines, vinyl wallcoverings and our high-
been running very well and gives its design trialled on a lead end wovens. Their big advantage
us complete computerised template, so that its shimmers as compared to vinyl is that they are
control of all parameters such as the eye moves across it and the made from sustainable raw
temperature, moisture and viewer moves across a room. materials and furthermore allow
setting times. Shambala Silk, a 100% the walls to breathe – in some
handwoven silk, radiates luxury parts of the world mildew is an
Proprietary recipes with its natural sheen and very issue due to humidity but with
“We make all our own finishing subtle gold 3D print on top. textile and nonwoven wallcov-
recipes and dyes in-house and try These are just three examples of erings there is no danger.
to do as much as possible the close to 400 fabrics in widths “The walls on which our
ourselves. We deal with a lot of of 110 or 137cm rolls that Tapetex materials are eventually hung are
expensive woven materials and keeps in stock and currently sells essentially inspection boards.
quality has to be guaranteed – to over 70 countries worldwide With other textiles in bigger
especially if an order is being via its sales offices and agents. production runs there are small
shipped to the other side of the mistakes that can be worked with,
world from here. Last minute but in what we do there’s
“With these kinds of fabrics, “Our customers generally like to absolutely no margin for even the
even the smallest of mistakes can order at the very last minute that a smallest error.
be very expensive. There can be job is specified and appreciate the “The new Montex is helping
anywhere up to fifteen separate ready availability of what they us achieve this very high
stages to the finishing of some of want, which can be shipped quality standard.” ●
Third generation
Tessitura Oreste Mariani Spa,
Andrea and Gaia Mariani.
founded in 1937, is now run by
Andrea and Gaia Mariani and their apparel fabrics, before the advent the comparative cost of an Italian
cousin Edoardo Mariani – as third of synthetics, notably nylon, fabric for one.
generation members of the opened up a huge niche market “Fifteen years ago, there were
founder’s family. Today it for woven umbrella fabrics at the suddenly 20 million Chinese-
specialises in high-end linings for end of the 1950s in Italy,” explains made umbrellas in Italy,
luxury handbags and shoes, as Andrea Mariani. accounting for 99% of the market
well as continuing to also make “The company, like a number of and many of the local manufac-
the umbrella fabrics which for others, then devoted itself 100 % turers and their suppliers were
many years were the company’s to nylon umbrella fabrics and it forced to close down.”
sole stock-in-trade. was a strong business for many
“The company was founded by decades. Then very quickly, Diversification
my grandfather and initially was Chinese companies were able to Tessitura Oreste Mariani’s
just a weaving operation, making supply a fully-made umbrella for response was to diversify, initially
into sun umbrellas and garden
furniture, but eventually its fabrics
for luxury leather goods came
more to the fore, built on firm
relationships with the brands, and
today represent 85% of business,
with the remaining 15% being
umbrella fabrics.
“This shift demanded significant
investments to broaden our
dyeing and finishing operations
and become more vertically
integrated,” said Andrea.
Mariani’s latest finishing line The company now operates 24
is some 43 metres long. doubled width weaving looms, 19
Residential
Due to the plant’s residential
location, it also benefits
from advanced water, air With the Qualitex visualisation
software, ‘finger tip’ control features
and heat recycling and ensure smarter operating procedures.
purification equipment.
“This change in response to the The Montex 8500 stenter is yourself with everything that’s
market was something of a distinguished by several new actually possible.
revolution for the company,” says features, including a newly “The machine is longer
Gaia, “because until then we had designed operator’s platform with than our other working four-
been making standard fabrics improved access, a new and chamber stenter, and the older
based mainly on one fibre – nylon improved visualisation with one it has replaced, and by
– and producing bulk orders. modern ‘slider effect’ on bigger 24 comparison, operating speeds
“In moving successfully into the inch screen monitors and the Eco are 30-40% higher.
luxury brands market we had to Booster heat recovery module. “On average, we are running
review our entire operation and With the Qualitex visualisation each fabric four times through the
focus on many different types of software, ‘finger tip’ control stenter, to thermo-fix before
fabric construction and designs, features offer smart phone-type dyeing, for drying after dyeing,
while at the same time shortening techniques for the machine for waterproofing and then
our production cycles and operators and ensure smarter for coating. With the texCoat,
enhancing our packaging and operating procedures. the application of coating
distribution operations. Additional benefits allow the chemicals is very precisely
“We now work with many of the operator to compose and pre- measured and applied.”
famous luxury brands and 90% of programme the ‘dashboard’ of the Mariani’s fabric constructions
our manufacturing is personalised monitor to personal requirements for umbrellas are generally nylon
for them, based on discussions and preferences. warp yarns with polyester weft
with their designers about how to yarns, but for luxury goods,
best adapt the fabrics in our Full control combinations of many different
regular collections for their Mariani is still working to further yarns are employed, including
specific leather goods. exploit the maximum benefits wool and cotton and those based
“We are now very flexible in from the new line. on luxury fibres.
terms of colours, constructions “In many ways, it’s a lot simpler The weight range too is different,
and designs in striving to innovate for the operators because averaging around 50-60gsm for
with them.” everything is electronically umbrella fabrics and up to 500-
“The readiness of some of these controlled,” says Andrea Mariani. 600gsm for luxury materials.
brands to explore the reshoring of “One major benefit with the new A range of heavy duty double-
their supply chains to local stenter, for example, is complete faced Jacquards is also produced.
producers has also been helpful in electronic control of the tension “Because the new Monforts
recent years,” she adds, “although at all times, and the same applies technology is completely
at the same time, the business to temperature. electronic, the adjustments for
remains highly cost competitive.” “We use a range of temperatures differing weights and fabric
Mariani’s latest finishing line for our different finishing steps and constructions are immediate and
certainly further strengthens the each chamber of the stenter can instantly compensated for, in
company’s position. be individually optimised. But, in a terms of tension control, humidity,
It is some 43 metres long and at way, it’s a little like changing from machine speed and all other
its heart is the six-chamber an old-fashioned desk phone to an parameters,” Andrea Mariani
Monforts Montex stenter and iPhone for us – although relatively concludes. “We are learning to
texCoat coating unit. easy, it takes time to familiarise totally trust this technology.” ●
Complete Econtrol
Through investment in new Monforts technology, Istanbul
Boyahanesi is planning to increase its capacity for the
commission dyeing and finishing of woven goods to a
monthly 2.5 million square metres during 2019.
Thermex Econtrol
Based in the key Turkish textile
centre of Çerkezköy, Istanbul
Boyahanesi was only founded in
2017, on the site of an older
existing dyehouse. It is a joint
venture between two of Turkey’s
leading textile wholesalers, Yilmaz
Kumaşçilik, which specialises in
fabrics for casual and outerwear,
and shirtings and suitings textiles
operation Erika Kumaşçilik.
The Monforts Thermex Immediately on its formation,
Econtrol continuous dyeing the first move of the new
line at Istanbul Boyahanesi. company was to order a new
Fine tuning
Vaz da Costa’s plant is on the
outskirts of Guimaraes in Northern “There are always many
Portugal. The town’s centre has adjustments to be made in fine-
been listed as a UNESCO World tuning such a machine,” says
Heritage site since 2001. Fernando Araújo, of
Just in time
reaction and action
Hans Wroblowski, Area Sales Director and
Head of Product Management for Denim at
Monforts, proposes some positive
measures for keeping a step ahead in
textile manufacturing with Industry 4.0.
We are currently facing the Now we are truly in the digital
biggest challenge of our times – age, surrounded by smart
Hans Wroblowski.
what is now being referred to as technologies and permanent
the 4th Industrial Revolution. online solutions.
A. Monforts was founded in the With online finance and technology in order to help our
year 1884 and our evolution in shopping, expert systems have customers respond to the
textile engineering and machine been developed for optimizing fundamental challenges facing the
building has progressed from internationally-linked businesses, textile industry today. These can
mechanical, steam and water- along with business models for constitute something of a vicious
powered technologies to the first global production planning, in circle of demands and
mass production lines, electronic order to achieve the shortest expectations as a result of:
drives and highly modular possible supply and delivery times. • Fragmented process chains.
machines such as our stenters. • Different time and
The move towards the current Challenges production scales.
state of the art has involved firstly How should textile manufacturers • Missing standards of
data transfer and storage via respond to this situation? communication interfaces.
internet/intranet, along with At Monforts, we have a clear • Small profit margins.
teleservice solutions, followed by mission and are committed to
full automation concepts. investing in the digitization of our The reality of low margins and
low profits means that textile
The four Industrial Revolutions. manufacturers are ultimately
fighting for every production cent
which can be saved. This can
result in a reluctance to invest in
new textile machinery, but
manufacturers really need to
explore what additional value the
latest technologies can deliver.
The era of digitization is
demanding new structures and
new ways of thinking, in order to
assume digital leadership.
The key benefits the latest
technologies can provide include:
• A reduction in the cost of
energy sources.
• A reduction in machinery
production costs.
• The sharing of process operators.
Line configuration of the advanced solution for the introduction of two-way super stretch into denim carried out in a single processing step.
information by the use of sensors. New Horizons The Matex Eco Applicator, as an alternative
with Qualitex
to padding, for minimum liquor application,
Install sensors at multiple especially for wet-in-wet solutions.
measuring points along the The consolidation of the
production line. The availability of Monforts Qualitex digital
measuring data allows companies solutions with the latest
to improve processing time and mechanical solution such as
machine ability. the Eco Applicator or Eco Line
• Analyze Data. Connect the can be the basis for the
clearly identified products with efficient implementation of a
their digital specification, their range providing higher
production materials as well their productivity and efficiency.
manufacturing related process The Qualitex offers the
data. Further, connect the different operator more reliability,
sources of data-machines within quicker access and therefore
the production chain. Create the more benefit. The
required communication and IT easy operation by
infrastructures in order to achieve use of the latest
connectivity and to be able to slider and
combine and analyse data with an dashboard functions with
expert system and a pre-adjustable individual adaption to the
recipe data information system. operating states assures faster access to comprehensive recipe
data and therefore enhanced
The Qualitex offers the operator more reliability and quicker access. machine ability.
Through its target-oriented and
integrated digital intranet/internet-
based Cloud solution, the
aforementioned just-in-time
reaction and action can be
achieved to ensure that supplier
and customer will be always
benefit from a retrievable online
information service.
Summary
The significant opportunities
arising from Textile 4.0 and the
Internet of Things require elevated
Through its target-oriented and integrated digital intranet/internet-based Cloud investments, with intranet and
solution, the Qualitex achieves just in time reaction and action. internet being the most important
tools in the future of efficient
corporate management.
We should not, however,
underestimate the numerous
challenges that this
transition entails.
The main sources of the
benefits in respect of productivity,
efficiency and availability have yet
to be defined between supplier
and producer.
Of course, there are already
extremely optimized textile
processes in use which are
executed serially in a well-defined
sequence. These will be further
optimized in the future and open
the route to the introduction of
new production approaches. ●
Winning
combinations
for Arta
Arta plant manager
Passing on
the know-how
As the key site for the construction of Monforts finishing
machines, Montex Maschinenfabrik in Austria is currently working
flat out to meet a very busy new order schedule and plays a key
role in finalising the new machines for ITMA exhibitions.
“We have been working very centre of Austria’s Lavant Valley, components, painting and
closely with the Monforts Montex Maschinenfabrik was shipping, along with a well-
research and development team founded by Monforts in 1982 as organised spare parts service.”
in Mönchengladbach, Germany, to an advanced manufacturing hub. The Montex machine shop is
take the latest new ideas through “Our area is known as the equipped with advanced Trumpf
testing and prototyping, in ‘paradise of Carinthia’ due to its laser and CNC cutting machines
readiness for ITMA 2019 and for favourable climate,” says Gert. and presses, with the powder
future series production,” says “Lignite was mined up to a depth coating of exterior panels also
Montex plant manager Gert Hanzl. of 600 metres here until 1968. carried out for rapid turnaround.
“We are fully exploiting the many From the outset of Montex in “The respective electrical switch
new possibilities being offered by 1982, we have specialised in all cabinets for the machines are
Industry 4.0 in the continuous aspects of machine production, delivered just-in-time from
development of design and including high-precision sheet Monforts in Germany according
manufacturing methods.” metal working, laser cutting and to our production schedules,”
Located in St. Stefan, in the welding, the assembly of says Gert.
Special machines
While there is standardisation in
series-produced Monforts
machines, Montex is increasingly
called upon to construct tailor
made machines with unique
designs, according to the special
needs of the customers.
“We aim for the best
combination of already-proven
components and carefully-tested
special constructions,” says Gert.
“We are able to handle extremely
large projects, having recently Montex Maschinenfabrik
plant manager Gert Hanzl.
shipped a complete finishing line
to one customer within eight include a complete portfolio of it’s very important that we train
weeks, and we were particularly coating units for virtually all apprentices at the same time, in
pleased with our proven design of applications in textiles. These have order to pass on our know-how
a challenging stenter frame with a been further developed and been and ensure the high standard that
320-degree temperature chamber. adapted to Monforts electrical plc- customers expect from Monforts
We are currently manufacturing control standards and are now systems is maintained going
machines with working widths of available as the Monforts texCoat forward,” he says. “One of the key
5.6 metres and we can produce and Allround units. advantages of being here in the
those with widths of up to seven “The business is currently heart of Europe is the Trial Training
metres, if requested.” running very well and with ITMA System – one of the best training
The core Monforts machine 2019 approaching we are ready systems in the world. It combines
range, including the industry to meet a special challenge,” theoretical instruction in a
standard Montex stenters, along Gert says, emphasising that the vocational school with practical
with relaxation dryers, Thermex loyalty and satisfaction of the training both within the company
dyeing ranges and Montex workforce is of and in training workshops.
Monfortex/Toptex compressive paramount importance. “Established staff also train
shrinking ranges as well as Matex regularly to develop new skills
padders and Eco Applicator Advanced training and everyone is involved at all
minimal coating units, has been “We have employees who have stages of production and trained
significantly expanded with the worked at this site since the to multi-task. This gives us
acquisition of Timatec in 2015, to foundation of Montex Austria, but flexibility and strength.” ●
Montex stenters
Leading High Tech features
for permanently achieving
best finishing results.
The built-in quality control
is always visible with
Qualitex 800 PLC control.
And with Web-UI*
on your mobile devices.
Ask for details.
We will be pleased
*option
to inform you further.