Tu-Flo 300 Compressor: Important! Please Read
Tu-Flo 300 Compressor: Important! Please Read
Tu-Flo 300 Compressor: Important! Please Read
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Product: TRUCK
Model: 773D TRUCK 7ER00616
Configuration: 773D Off-Highway Truck 7ER00381-UP (MACHINE) POWERED BY 3412E Engine
REG009140001
1. Always block vehicle wheels. Stop engine when working under a vehicle. Depleting vehicle air
system pressure may cause vehicle to roll. Keep hands away from chamber push rods and slack
adjusters; they may apply as system pressure drops.
2. Never connect or disconnect a hose or line containing air pressure. It may whip as air escapes.
Never remove a component or pipe plug unless you are certain all system pressure has been depleted.
3. Never exceed recommended air pressure and always wear safety glasses when working with air
pressure. Never look into air jets or direct them at anyone.
4. Never attempt to disassemble a component until you have read and understand recommended
procedures. Some components contain powerful springs and injury can result if not properly
disassembled. Use only proper tools and observe all precautions pertaining to use of those tools.
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General
The Tu-Flo 300 Compressor is primarily used in air over hydraulic brake systems (Figure 1). Another
use for this type compressor is in air supply systems for service trucks used for inflating tires,
cleaning, driving tools, etc.
Description
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Figures 2 and 3
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Tu-Flo 300 Compressors are single stage, reciprocating piston types. Their rated capacity in piston
displacement when running at 1250 RPM is 4 cubic feet per minute. They are designed for vertical
mounting and are fitted for belt drive only. Only air cooled type Tu-Flo 300 Compressors are made.
Tu-Flo 300 Compressors have automatic type inlet valves. Their unloading mechanisms are located in
the cylinder block and they have no external moving parts.
Tu-Flo 300 Compressors are either engine (Figure 2) or self-lubricated (Figure 3). If engine
lubricated, they receive their oil supply for lubrication from the engines on which they are mounted.
Self-lubricated compressors contain their own oil supply and pumping system. The method of
lubricating the moving parts is the same in either type (Figure 4). Oil is forced through an oil passage
in the crankshaft and out at each connecting rod journal. As the crankshaft turns, the oil that is forced
out at the journals is splashed against the cylinder bores and crankshaft bearings.
Die cast aluminum connecting rods and cast iron pistons are used in the Tu-Flo 300 Compressor. The
wrist pins are lubricated by oil dripping from a drip-boss on the piston into a catch-funnel at the top of
the connecting rod and through a drilled passage to the wrist pin and its bushing.
A name plate is attached to the crankcase of all Tu-Flo 300 Compressors. It shows the piece number,
compressor type, and a serial number. The nameplate with a black background indicates a new
compressor; if the background is red it indicates that the compressor is a factory reconditioned unit.
The piece number identifies the compressor and it is the number used when reference is made to a
particular unit. The serial number and type are additional information.
Operation
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The air compressor runs whenever the engine runs, but it only compresses air when the governor is
cut in. The governor starts or stops the compression by acting in conjunction with the compressor
unloader mechanism located in the cylinder block. When the desired maximum and minimum system
pressures are reached the governor either unloads or loads the compressor.
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During the down stroke of the piston a slight vacuum is created above the piston. Air from the outside
then moves the inlet valve off its seat and is drawn into the cylinder bore above the piston. As the
piston starts its upward stroke, the air that was drawn in on the down stroke starts to compress and
returns the inlet valve to its seat. The air above the piston is further compressed until it overcomes the
discharge valve spring and system air pressure to move the discharge valve off its seat. With the
discharge valve open, the compressed air is forced through the discharge line to the reservoir.
As the piston reaches the top of its stroke and starts down, the discharge valve spring returns the
discharge valve to its seat. This prevents the compressed air from returning to the cylinder bore as the
intake and compression cycle is repeated.
When reservoir air pressure reaches the high pressure setting of the governor, it passes through the
governor and into the cavity beneath the unloader pistons in the compressor cylinder block. The
unloader pistons lift and the plungers move up and hold the inlet valves off their seats.
With the inlet valves held off their seats by the unloader pistons and plungers, air is merely forced
back and forth between the two cylinders. As reservoir air is used and the pressure drops to the low
pressure setting of the governor, the governor closes and exhausts the air from beneath the unloader
pistons. The unloader spring forces the saddle, pistons and plungers down and the inlet valves again
seat. Compression is then resumed.
Preventive Maintenance
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If the compressor is a self-lubricated type, its oil level should be checked at the same time the engine
oil level is checked. The oil level should be kept from overflow out of the crankcase to the bottom of
the dipstick (Figure 8). The oil should be changed at same time as engine oil or often enough to keep
it non-abrasive and non-corrosive.
Depending on operating conditions and experience, the compressor air strainer should be serviced
(Figure 9). Remove and wash all parts and clean or replace element. If the element is cleaned it should
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be washed in gasoline, methyl alcohol, carbon tetrachloride, or soap and water. Before replacing the
element it should be saturated in clean oil, then squeezed dry.
Check compressor drive alignment and belt tension. Also note that all mounting bolts are tightened
securely.
If compressor is self-lubricated type the oil should be drained, the crankcase flushed then filled with
clean oil. The same SAE grade oil as is generally used in engines should be used in the compressor.
Remove cylinder head cover and check for presence of excessive carbon deposits. Also check
discharge line for restriction due to carbon deposits. If restrictions are found in either of these checks,
the cylinder head or discharge line should be cleaned or replaced.
The crankcase breather of self-lubricated type compressor should be serviced. It can be flushed with a
good cleaning solvent and dried.
Depending upon operating conditions and experience, the compressor should be disassembled,
cleaned and all parts inspected. All damaged or worn parts should be replaced or the complete
compressor should be replaced with a factory reconditioned repair exchange unit.
Service Checks
It is of the utmost importance that the compressor is taking in clean air. The air strainer must be
properly installed and kept clean.
Check compressor mounting to be sure it is secure. The drive should be checked for alignment, and
proper belt tension.
If the compressor is engine lubricated its oil supply and return lines must be inspected to see that the
compressor is getting the proper supply of oil and that the oil is returning to engine unrestricted.
Check to make sure the engine fan blast is flowing by the compressor unrestricted.
Operating Tests
Because of the many different types of air systems using the Tu-Flo 300 Compressor on different
types of vehicles, it is difficult to set up a specific series of tests to determine the serviceability of the
compressor on the vehicle. The best guide is familiarization with the vehicle and its air system.
Should the compressor fail to maintain adequate air pressure in the system, it usually denotes loss of
efficiency due to wear, provided leakage in the air system is not excessive. Oil passing is another sign
of wear.
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The discharge valves and the unloader pistons can be checked for leakage by first building up the air
system until the governor cuts out, then stopping the engine. With the engine stopped, carefully listen
for escaping air at the intake to pin-point leakage, if noted, squirt a little oil around the unloader
pistons. If there is no noticeable leakage at the pistons, the discharge valves may be leaking.
Another method of checking the discharge valves is to disconnect the discharge line and apply shop
air back through the discharge port.
If the compressor does not function as described above, or leakage is excessive, it is recommended
that it be returned to the nearest Bendix-Westinghouse authorized distributor for a factory rebuilt
compressor under the repair exchange plan. If this is not possible, the compressor can be repaired with
genuine Bendix-Westinghouse parts in which case the following information should prove helpful.
These instructions are general and in some cases additional precautions must be taken.
Use a gear puller to remove the pulley from the compressor crankshaft.
Clean oil supply line. Before connecting the supply line run the engine briefly to make sure oil is
flowing freely through the line.
Clean the oil return line or oil return passages in the bracket; these passages must unrestricted.
Prelubricate compressor cylinder walls and bearings with clean engine oil.
Self-Lubricated Type
Fill compressor crankcase with clean engine oil before installing and operating compressor. Refer to
"Tabulated Data" Section for proper amount of oil to be used.
All Types
Inspect pulley and associated parts for wear or damage. The pulley must be a tapered interference fit
on the compressor crankshaft. Replace pulley if worn or damaged.
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Install the pulley on the crankshaft making sure it does not ride on the key. Install crankshaft nut
securely and lock with cotter pin.
Clean or replace any damaged or restricted air lines before connecting them to compressor.
After installation, run the compressor, check and correct any oil or air leaks. Also check for noisy
operation.
Disassembly
Clean road dirt and grease from compressor exterior using a good cleaning solvent.
Before disassembling the complete compressor the relationship of several sub-parts should be marked
so the compressor can be assembled properly:
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Remove cylinder head body cap screws, then body. It may be necessary to tap cylinder head body
with a raw-hide or similar hammer to free it.
Remove inlet valve springs, guides and inlet valve from top of block.
The oil pump cylinder should not be removed from the base unless it is worn or damaged.
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Bend back prongs of oil pump rod bolt lockwasher; remove bolts, lockwasher, oil pump rod, and its
cap. Reassemble oil pump rod cap to the rod to protect rod bearing.
Remove oil relief valve seat from piston end of oil pump rod. Also remove oil relief ball valve and
spring.
Straighten prongs of connecting rod bolt lockwashers and remove bolts, lockwashers, and bearing
caps.
Push pistons with connecting rods attached up and out the top of the cylinder block.
If pistons are to be removed from connecting rods, remove wrist pin lock wires and press wrist pins
from piston and connecting rods.
Crankcase
Remove end cover with oil seal. Remove or scrape off end cover gasket.
Remove cap screws that hold opposite end cover to crankcase; remove end cover and its gasket.
Press the crankshaft and ball bearing from the crankcase, then press bearing from crankshaft.
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If compressor is fitted with an air strainer, inlet fitting or governor, remove same.
Remove cap screws securing cylinder block to crankcase; separate crankcase and cylinder block and
scrape off gasket.
Remove unloader spring, spring saddle, and spring seat from cylinder block.
Connect shop air to unloader port and slowly apply air pressure to lift up unloader pistons, guides and
plungers. Remove unloader guides and plungers, then unloader pistons.
Inlet valve seats can be removed but only if they are worn or damaged and are being replaced.
All parts should be cleaned thoroughly in a good cleaning solvent before inspection.
Remove any carbon deposits that may have collected on the head discharge cavities or on the cylinder
head cover.
The discharge valves, if they are only slightly worn or grooved, can be reclaimed by lapping them on
fine crocus cloth (Figure 13), but it is recommended that new valves be used.
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Cylinder Block
Clean carbon and dirt from intake and unloader passages. Use air to blow out unloader passages.
Like the discharge valves, the inlet valves can be reclaimed by lapping them on fine crocus cloth, if
they are only slightly worn, but it is suggested that new inlet valves be used.
Thoroughly clean out oil passages through the crankshaft, connecting rod tops, crankcase, end cover,
and base plate. If necessary inspect these passages with a wire, then blow foreign matter out with air
pressure.
Inspect body for cracks or other damage. Discharge valve stops on cylinder cover should not be
peened. If the stops are peened excessively, the cylinder head cover should be replaced.
If the discharge valve seats are worn excessively so that there is no longer enough metal left to
reclaim them by lapping, the seats or a complete cylinder head body should be replaced.
It is recommended that used discharge valve springs, discharge valve guides and the discharge valve
be replaced.
Check for cracks or broken lugs in crankcase and end covers. Also check their oil passages to make
sure they are open and clean.
Crankcase bearing bore should be checked with cylinder block installed on crankcase. Check fit of
ball bearing in its bore. It should be a snug press fit.
Check rear sleeve bearing for scores or damage. It should be a tight press in the crankcase.
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Check oil seal of drive end cover for lip wear and flexibility. Replace seal if necessary.
Cylinder Block
Check unloader piston bores to be sure they are clean and free of rust.
Check inlet valves. If they are slightly worn or grooved they can be reclaimed by lapping them on a
fine piece of crocus cloth, but it is recommended that they be replaced. If the inlet valve seats are
worn or damaged excessively and cannot be reclaimed, they should be replaced.
Cylinder Bores
Cylinder bores should not be scored, or be out of round by more than 0.0002", or be tapered more
than 0.0003".
Clearance between pistons and cylinder bores should be between .002" minimum and .004"
maximum.
Pistons
Check pistons for scores, cracks, or enlarged ring grooves. Replace pistons if any of these conditions
are found.
Wrist Pins
Check fit of wrist pins in pistons and in connecting rod bushings; they should be a light press fit. If
the wrist pins are loose and worn the wrist pins and pistons should be replaced.
Clearance of the wrist pin in the connecting rod bushing should not exceed 0.0015".
Piston Rings
Check ring gap with rings installed in cylinder bore. Refer to (Figure 14) for correct gap and groove
clearance.
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Crankshaft
Check crankshaft screw threads, keyways, tapered ends, and all machined and ground surfaces for
wear, scores, cracks, or other damage.
Check oil passages of crankshaft to be sure they are open and clean.
Check fit of connecting rod bearing on crankshaft journals. Worn connecting rods should be replaced.
Connecting rod caps are not interchangeable so they should not be mixed.
The locking slots of the connecting rod and its cap should be positioned adjacent to each other.
Clearance between the connecting rod journals and connecting rod bearings should not be less than
0.0003" or more than 0.0021".
Main Bearings
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Check for wear or flat spots on ball bearing and replace if these conditions are found. The rear sleeve
bearing should be checked for scores and wear.
Unloader Mechanism
Used unloader parts should be replaced with unloader kit piece number 265013. The new unloader
pistons should be a free sliding fit in the unloader piston bores of the cylinder block.
Check fit of oil pump piston in the base plate oil pump bushing to be sure it is a free sliding fit. If
excessive clearance is found the oil pump piston and rod, its bushing, or both, should be replaced.
The oil pump relief ball valve seat should be checked for excessive wear. The ball valve should be
checked also. If either show excessive wear the oil pump rod should be replaced.
Check the base plate for cracks or other damages, be sure its oil passages are clear and clean.
A new oil pressure check valve should be installed properly in the base plate.
If discharge valve seats merely show signs of slight wear, they can be dressed by using a lapping
stone, grinding compound, and lapping tool. New discharge valves and discharge valve springs should
be used.
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To test for leakage by the discharge valves, apply about 100 pounds of air pressure through the
discharge port and check for leakage at the discharge valves and seats. If excessive leakage is found,
leave the air pressure applied and with a fibre or hardwood dowel and hammer, tap the discharge
valves off their seats several times. (Figure 15). This will coin the valves on their seats and reduce any
leakage.
With the air pressure still applied, check for leakage at the cylinder head cover.
Like the case of the discharge valve seats, the inlet seats can be dressed if they show signs of wear. If
seats are beyond repair they should be replaced.
It is suggested that new inlet valves and inlet valve spring be used.
Prior to assembly lubricate unloader pistons and piston bores with B-W lubricant, piece number
239379 (dimethyl polysiloxane BW-328-M). If new prelubricated pistons are used, no additional
lubricant is necessary.
Install unloader pistons in their bores with caution against cutting the grommets or distorting the back
-up rings.
Position unloader plungers in their guides and slip them in over the tops of the pistons.
Position unloader saddle between unloader piston guides so its forks are centered on the guides.
Install the unloader spring making sure it seats over the spring seats both in the block and on the
saddle.
Position cylinder block gasket and block on crankcase according to markings made prior to
disassembly. Install cap screws with lockwashers and tighten block to crankcase.
Installing Crankshaft
Position ball bearing and crankshaft in crankcase, making sure they are in correct alignment, then
carefully press them into the crankcase using an arbor press.
Position and install the rear end cover gasket and end cover with lockwashers and cap screws.
If the front end cover requires an oil seal which was removed on disassembly, a new seal should be
pressed into the end cover.
Position a new end cover gasket and carefully install the end cover over the crankshaft and on to the
crankcase avoiding damage to the seal.
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If new wrist pin bushings are to be used they should be pressed into the connecting rods so that the oil
hole in the bushing lines up with the one in the rod. The new bushings should then be reamed or
honed to provide between 0.0003" and 0.0008" clearance on the wrist pin.
Position connecting rod in piston and press in wrist pin so that lock wire hole in the pin aligns with
that of the piston. Install new lock wires through pistons and wrist pins and lock same by snapping
short end into lock wire holes at the piston skirt.
Install piston ring in correct location with pip-marks up. Stagger the position of the ring gaps.
Prelubricate piston, piston rings, wrist pins and connecting rod bearings with clean oil before
installing them in the cylinder block.
Remove connecting rod bolts and bearing cap from one connecting rod.
Turn crankshaft so one of its connecting rod journals is in the bottom dead center position. Insert the
connecting rod with piston through the top of this cylinder using a piston ring sleeve compresser.
Position and attach the related bearing cap to the connecting rod. Follow with the lockwasher and
connecting rod bolts. Tighten the connecting rod bolts evenly and then bend up the corners of the
lockwasher to lock and hold the bolts.
Install the second connecting rod with piston in the same manner.
Install inlet valve seats if they have been removed. Position and install inlet valve guides then drop
inlet valves into their guides. They should be a loose sliding fit between the valve and guide.
If previously removed, the discharge valve seats should be installed in the cylinder head body.
Turn the cylinder head body over and stick the inlet valve spring in the body. It may be necessary to
use a small amount of grease to hold the springs in place.
Position the cylinder head gasket and cylinder head body on the cylinder block.
Install cap screws with lockwashers and connect head body to cylinder block.
Install discharge valve guides in proper place in cylinder head. To open sides of the guides should
face the discharge port.
Drop discharge valves in the guides and check to be sure they are a loose sliding fit.
Install cylinder head cover making sure discharge valve stops are correctly positioned inside the
discharge valve springs.
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Install cylinder head cover cap screws and tighten evenly and securely.
Position oil relief valve spring and relief ball valve in oil pump piston. Install and tighten relief valve
seat until bottomed.
Install oil pump piston bushing in base plate if it was removed on disassembly. Check fit of piston in
base plate bushing; the piston must be a medium sliding fit.
Install new oil pressure check valve in base plate properly with check valve and seat down in the plate
and the check valve stop pin visible at the top of the plate.
Install oil pump piston and rod on crankshaft. This fit must be the same as specified for connecting
rod bearings on crankshaft.
Position base plate assembly on the bottom of the crankcase being sure the oil pump piston engages
the oil pump bushing in the base plate and secure plate to crankcase with cap screws and lockwashers.
Air Strainer
Assemble the strainer. Use a new strainer gasket and install the strainer on the cylinder block.
Governor - Figure 16
If compressor is type with governor attached, install a new or rebuilt governor to the compressor with
the governor mounting bracket. This bracket is secured to the compressor with the cylinder head and
block cap screws.
Connect the unloader port of the compressor to the governor unloader port with tubing and fittings.
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Use covers, plugs, or masking tape to protect all ports if compressor is not to be installed
immediately.
Fit the crankshaft end with key, nut, and cotter pin and then protect the end against damage by
wrapping with masking or friction tape.
The open bottom of engine lubricated compressors should be protected against the entrance of dirt
during handling or storage, by installing a temporary cover over the open base.
To properly test a compressor under operating conditions, an elaborate test rack to accommodate
correct mounting, cooling, lubricating and driving the compressor is necessary. Such tests are not
compulsory if the unit has been carefully rebuilt by an experienced person.
A simple compressor efficiency and build up test can be run. Before the test is performed, the
crankcase of self-lubricated type compressor should be filled with clean lubricating oil. An engine
lubricated compressor must be connected to an oil supply line of at least 15 pounds pressure during
the test and an oil return must be connected to keep the crankcase drained. The compressor when
tested should be less strainer.
To the discharge port of the compressor connect a reservoir or reservoirs whose volume plus the
volume of the connecting line equals 1300 cubic inches. Run the compressor between 1700 and 1750
RPM's. Elapsed time that the Tu-Flo 300 type compressor takes to build up from 0 to 100 psi should
not exceed 85 seconds.
During this test the compressor should be checked for oil leakage and for noisy operation.
Trouble Shooting
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Excessive wear.
Noisy Operation
Excessive wear.
Excessive wear.
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Defective governor.
Maximum Recommended Speed with Specified Fan Blast Cooling (RPM's) ... 3000
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