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    Source: EN 568:2007. Bergsteigerausrüstung. Verankerungsmittel Im Eis. Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen Und Prüfverfahren

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    Mauricio Gaviria
    norma tecnica

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    Source: EN 568:2007. Bergsteigerausrüstung. Verankerungsmittel Im Eis. Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen Und Prüfverfahren

    Uploaded by

    Mauricio Gaviria
    38 views1 page
    norma tecnica

    Original Title

    EN_568_en

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    norma tecnica

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    38 views1 page

    Source: EN 568:2007. Bergsteigerausrüstung. Verankerungsmittel Im Eis. Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen Und Prüfverfahren

    Uploaded by

    Mauricio Gaviria
    norma tecnica

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    of 1

    This summary of EN 568 does NOT contain the full details of the ICE ANCHORS | MOUNTAINEERING EQUIPMENT

    standard.
    It is a simplified summary to provide an overview of the test me-
    thods and safety requirements for the product.
    EN 568
    The official version of the standard must be consulted if full infor-
    mation is required. Details of the standard are provided at the end
    of this summary.

    Ice anchors: generic term for ice screws and ice pitons. 2. HOLDING FORCE IN ICE

    Ice screw: ice anchor that is screwed into the ice for protection Axial force
    and then screwed back out again after use. F = ≥ 5 kN
    The anchor must withstand a

    m
    0m
    Ice piton: an ice anchor that is hammered into ice and then remo- force of 5 kN without shearing

    20
    ved to be used again. or ripping out.

    The screw is fixed between


    Design: ice screws have a cylindrical or semi-cylindrical hollow two cheeks so that the han-

    25mm
    body with a thread on the outside and at least one hole at the top ger is fixed with a distance of
    for clipping a carabiner. 25mm to the cheeks. An axial
    All edges are to be free from burrs and have no sharp edges at the force is applied to the screw.
    head and hole.

    SAFETY REQUIREMENTS
    DETERMINING THE SCREWABILITY OF ICE SCREWS

    RESISTANCE TO HAMMERING OF ICE PITONS The ice screw is positioned in


    F = 120 N the ice block at a 90°-angle.
    10 kg
    The ice piton is positioned at This ice screw is positioned at
    a 90° angle to the test ice the centre of the axle of the
    block. retaining device.
    mind. 375 mm

    The screw is then screwed at


    A vertical force hits the ice pi- constant pressure of 120 N
    ton on the head (first impact into the ice block.
    from 375 mm, then increasing In the 11th rotation the penet-
    in distance) until the piton is ration depth should match the
    flush with the ice. In this test, thread gradient.
    Normeis
    the ice piton must be placed
    100 times.
    No cracks or deformation in
    the ice piton are permitted
    and the head must also re-
    main undamaged.
    INFORMATION SUPPLIED

    1. HOLDING FORCE IN ICE The following compulsory information is supplied by the manufac-
    turer on the product:
    Radial force
    - Name of manufacturer;
    A 10-mm steel rod is place in - Model designation;
    the clip-hole. - Reference to user manual;
    A load is parallel to the ice - CE mark with 4-digit identification number.
    90°
    block, until either the ice piton
    shears off or is pulled out of For additional information, see either the labelling or the user
    the ice block. manual.
    The ice anchor must be able
    to withstand a force of 10 kN
    F ≥10 kN without shearing off or ripping
    out.
    Source: EN 568:2007. Bergsteigerausrüstung. Verankerungsmittel im Eis. Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren. copyright by EDELRID 15

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