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2022 02 01 - Delicious
2022 02 01 - Delicious
64
CONTENTS.
REGULARS
6 Ed’s Letter
8 Talk to Us
10 Menus
12 delicious. Drinks Club
Pairing Qantas Wines with recipes
from this issue.
23 Insider: News
28 Review
Chef Will Meyrick takes his skills west.
30 Out & About
40 Critic and the Comic
Mike and Merrick fire up for a smoky,
sticky barbecue dish.
42 Cheese Counter
The Studd siblings get fresh with
an iconic Indian cheese.
44 Yotam Ottolenghi
A classic walnut cake gets an update.
46 Subscribe to delicious.
48 Meat Market
The chef and the butcher wing it
with an underrated piece of meat.
50 I’m Loving
Matt Preston boldly predicts the food
delicious.com.au 5
6
eustonellis.com
‘Tickled Pink’ tea towel
from Euston + Ellis
PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY NIGEL LOUGH
PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS
UNTIL 25 APR 2022
ONLY IN MELBOURNE
NATIONAL GALLERY OF VICTORIA
delicious.
TO US EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Kerrie McCallum
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
OUR MOST-LIKED POST Samantha Jones
#MAKEITDELICIOUS
DIGITAL DIRECTOR CREATIVE DIRECTOR FOOD DIRECTOR
John Hannan Hayley Incoll Phoebe Wood
Donut panic, we’ve found EDITORIAL
your new fave dessert. Deputy Editor Krysia Bonkowski
Senior Subeditor/Copywriter Corinne Parkes
These lemon meringue bombe Travel Editor Rosemary Slade
alaska doughnuts were your top Editorial Coordinator Monika Hecimovic
DIGITAL
THE JOY OF COOKING: Congratulations on your Digital Editor Erina Starkey
Motion Graphics Designer Jemma Collins
fabulous magazine. I have been a loyal subscriber since the Senior Digital Producer Bella Nilsson
Contributing Food Editor, Digital Warren Mendes
beginning, and I gift my foodie daughter a subscription for her
birthday each year. I think we are addicted! I am 82 years young Senior Editor Matt Preston
Contributing Editor Kate Gibbs
and I love cooking great food from your recipes for my family
Contributors Anjum Anand, Mike Bennie, Nornie Bero, Joel Bickford, Max Brearley,
and friends. I am then ‘in my happy place’, lost in the creativity Ivy Carruth, Colin Fassnidge, Pablo Galindo Vargas, Belinda Luksic, Matt Moran,
of experimenting, tasting, sharing and remembering wonderful Yasmin Newman, Yotam Ottolenghi, Francesca Percy, Anthony Puharich,
Paul Richardson, Laura Sharrad, Ellie Studd, Sam Studd, Merrick Watts
past food experiences during my extensive world travels. Many
of these trips were focused on food, and the food and wine Managing Director, National Sales Lou Barrett
cultures of areas we were in, as well as the joy of living and National GM, News Amp Renee Sycamore
Classifieds Advertising Darren Penny 1300 139 305
being in the moment. Thank you! Nellie Brierly WA Group Sales Director Marissa McNish marissa.mcnish@news.com.au
Head of Creative Richard McAuliffe Head of Creative Operations Eva Chown
Head of Art Karen Ng Head of Content Brooke Lewis
Senior Art Directors Lisa Klaus, Elen Le Glanic, Nicole Vonwiller
Senior Content Writers Julian Hartley, Rosie Double, Tiffany Pilcher, Colin Sevitt
Creative Producers Sarah Mury, Louise Davids, Kristie Walden
THE WINNER IS... Production Manager Neridah Burke
neridah.burke@news.com.au
Advertising Production adproduction@news.com.au
I love my delicious. subscription!
GM Product & Partnerships, Food Corp Bianca Camilleri
Each month I try to use as many GM Product Integration Nicole Waudby
Product Integration Director Amanda Spackman
of the recipes as I possibly can
Senior Product Integration Manager, Food Corp Adelaide Johnson
before the next issue arrives. Product Integration Manager, Food Corp Harry Parsons
Senior Marketing Manager, Food Corp Michelle Kaplan
My record so far is only 14, but Marketing Manager, Partnerships & Experiential, Food Corp Bianca DeCandia
then I tag the remaining recipes Marketing Executive, Food Corp Holly Berckelman
holly.berckelman@news.com.au
I want to come back to. We were so excited about the Events Manager Joanne Khawaja
Head of Production & Talent, Food Corp Mim Stacey
honey joy cheesecake in the September issue, as we’d
had our very first harvest of honey from our beehive. Managing Director, Food Corp Fiona Nilsson
Director of Communications Sharyn Whitten
The cheesecake was magnificent, made all the more Head of Retail Marketing, Retail Sales & Marketing Rohan Smith
exciting by the distinctive perfume and flavours of the Subscription Enquiries 1300 656 933; subs@magsonline.com.au ISSN 1448-4455
delicious. Editorial (02) 8045 4909; hello@delicious.com.au
tea tree blooming in our area! Now I need to get on to 2 Holt St, Surry Hills, NSW 2010
renewing my subscription... Sheryl Nicolson Melbourne Office, HWT Tower, Level 5, 40 City Rd, Southbank, Vic 3006, tel: (03) 9292 2000.
delicious. is published by NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd (ACN 088 923 906), 2 Holt St, Surry Hills, NSW 2010,
ED’S NOTE: Congratulations, Sheryl! You’ve won a Tefal tel: (02) 9288 3000. NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd is a wholly owned subsidiary of News Limited (ACN 007 871 178).
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8 delicious.com.au
INTRODUCING THE NEW BAKING
RANGE BY DELICIOUS.
MENUS
ON THE V EG LONG LUNCH FRE SH TA K E
10 delicious.com.au
Be plant
promiscuous.
Calilujah!
califiafarms.com.au | @califiafarmsau
A delicious
PAIRING
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SCAN TO SHOP NOW
delicious.com.au 13
IN SEASON
Beer-battered zucchini
flowers with anchovies and
mozzarella (recipe p 18)
Sardines with
sweet & sour red
onion, mint and
pine nuts
(recipe p 18)
delicious.com.au 17
IN SEASON.
1/ 1/
1/
1/ 11/
1/
1/
1/
1/
EXCLUSIVE NEW
VIDEO CONTENT
Watch our video
and get rolling with
this fun pasta shape.
delicious.com.au/february
delicious.com.au 19
11/
1/
1/ 1/
11/
1/
1/
1/
Inside Fugazzi BELOW: Chefs Max and
Laura Sharrad and restaurateur Simon
Kardachi are co-owners of Fugazzi
LET’S
FIGHT
INSIDER NEWS
Hot tables, lust-have products, the latest news, trends & more.
Edited by Erina Starkey
@erinastarkey
TA B L E TA L K
2
One of the country’s hottest restaurants has
opened in Adelaide. Jake Kellie, former head
chef of Michelin-starred Singaporean modern
barbecue restaurant Burnt Ends, is blazing a trail
at arkhé in Norwood. The fire-powered kitchen is
fuelled by a 2.5-tonne dual-cavity wood oven that
1
There’s no stopping the negroni. At new also feeds four elevation grills. Local seafood stars,
Brisbane bar and trattoria, Sasso Italiano, from whole-roasted dory with a fennel and seaweed
you can order the Italian aperitivo cocktail salad to a potato crumpet with whipped cod’s roe. TRENDING NOW
11 different ways. Some come with a whiff of
3
One of many exciting spaces within The
rosemary smoke, others with a scoop of Campari Tasman, Hobart’s new Luxury Collection Hotel, NEGRONI
sorbet. You can also turn your tipple into a ‘birthday Mary Mary is an intimate cocktail bar helmed FOUNTAINS
negroni’ using the bar’s collection of vintage gins, by award-winning bartender, Charlie Ainsbury. The Sip from the
fountain of
which span six decades. From the food side of the venue is named from its location – the former St
vermouth (and gin
menu, expect all the red-sauce classics, from Mary’s Hospital, with the bar in the old strong room. and Campari) at
homemade pizza and pasta to a 1kg bistecca alla Today, it holds a different kind of drug. Taste your Italian trattoria
Fiorentina steak cooked in the Woolloongabba way around the Apple Isle’s best small-batch spirits, Tippy-Tay in the
restaurant’s bespoke Marana Forni woodfire oven. featuring local whiskies, gins and native ingredients. Melbourne CBD.
DELICIOUS.COM.AU/EAT-OUT Go online for weekly restaurant news and reviews from our critics and reviewers.
delicious.com.au 23
TOP DROP
Santa Margherita wines has
partnered with Silvia Colloca
to celebrate 60 years of its
best-selling pinot grigio. The crisp
24 delicious.com.au
INSIDER.
6
3
.95,
wood
com.au
ate
t.com
Luxury
com.au
dailybar.co
ry Labels
e body
& Goji
Dhurrie,
26 delicious.com.au
FROM TOP: seafood paella paired
with Yalumba Barossa Bush Vine
Grenache 2019; the dining area
at Opa Bar + Mezze.
Due WEST
Chef Will Meyrick has traded Bali for Perth, and his contribution
to the city leaves a lasting impression, writes Max Brearley.
@willstreetperth
MANY PERTH DINERS ALREADY know I’ve seen of this increasingly ubiquitous
of Will Meyrick, his Bali eateries Mama San, ingredient – which leans more to being
Sarong and Hujan Locale on the radar of mussel-like than, say, a rock oyster.
island regulars. For those once unfamiliar Smoked eel betel leaf is umami laden
with the Scottish chef, who honed his skills thanks to dried shrimp and delivers a
at Sydney’s Longrain and Jimmy Liks and whack of heat from the layering of chilli,
across Asia, the secret is out: bookings for pepperberry leaf, nam prik and jaew bong.
1 raspberries, blueberries
and strawberries, and
stone fruit such as peaches,
2 we move into late
summer. The signs of a
sweet fig are a heavy weight,
3 prime now and are lovely
freshly shucked, steamed
or thrown on the BBQ. Sydney
plums and nectarines, hit supple skin and a drop of Rock oysters are a little more
their stride over summer. syrupy juice on the underside. complex than Pacific oysters.
For more on the latest restaurant, cafe and bar reviews, head to delicious.com.au/eat-out.
28 delicious.com.au
DELICIOUS. CONFIDENTIAL
1 2 3
DELICIOUS. @ SHELL HOUSE
ALWAYS SO MANY
LAUGHS!” – KERRIE MCCALLUM
30 delicious.com.au
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THE CRITIC’S PICKS
T.I.N.A DRINKS, $7
It’s great to see craft,
non-alcoholic products
hitting the market and
done so righteously. This
is a cocktail, sans booze,
based around Taiwanese
oolong tea combined with
aromatic and flavoursome
botanicals. It’s delicious,
PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS COURT STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS
fruit and a good dusting
of herbal spice. Yum.
MIKE BENNIE IS ALSO CO-OWNER OF A SYDNEY-BASED WINE AND LIQUOR RETAIL BUSINESS
This compelling, thirst-
quenching beer is built
around sour cherry juice,
with a lively tang and the
nuttiness of roasted hemp
seeds. It’s an ideal match
to the sweet glaze and
perfect for resetting your
palate after each chomp.
Barbecued glazed
beef skewers with
iceberg slaw,
find the recipe at
delicious.com.au
“I like our Comic’s suggestion of
pairing a young tempranillo with
these saucy, sticky skewers. And
Mike’s right: chilling it would take
things to a new level, perfect for
a barbecue on a balmy evening!”
– Phoebe Wood, delicious.
food director
CHEESE COUNTER.
@thestuddsiblings
42 delicious.com.au
YOTAM OTTOLENGHI.
NUTS
FOR CAKE
Whether you keep it simple or adorn it with decadent extras,
this walnut cake from Yotam Ottolenghi is as perfect for
afternoon tea as it is for a celebratory table.
and fluffy, scraping down sides of the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk
bowl as necessary. Transfer mixture to a attachment (or use a large bowl and a
large bowl. Add walnut, lemon zest and hand-held whisk). Whisk on high speed
1/4 tsp salt flakes and mix well to combine. for 1 minute, or until firm and fluffy. Once
Clean and dry the stand mixer bowl and the cake has cooled, spread cream over
whisk attachment, then add egg whites to surface and scatter with caramelised
the bowl. Whisk on high for 2 minutes, or walnuts to serve.
44 delicious.com.au
“IF YOU PREFER
KEEPING IT PLAIN
AND DAIRY-FREE,
THE CAKE IS
MOIST AND
DELICIOUS
ENOUGH AS IT IS.”
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48 delicious.com.au
I’M LOVING.
SEEING IT LAB MEAT AND FAKE MEAT Long promised but still stumbling
to make a major impact here, 2022 is the year! Expect to see
COMING everything from honey and dairy to even coffee grown this way.
YUZU Once only available as a bottled product, this citrus, so
loved in Japan and Korea, is increasingly found fresh. We are
Matt Preston peers into his culinary crystal ball to so sure it’s going to be a hit, it even features in the cheesecake
predict the trends of 2022 – you saw it here first. on this month’s cover as well as in our recipe below.
JALAPENO All hail the queen of chillies with its distinctly fruity
IT’S THE TIME OF YEAR when we draw a long bow and try and fleshiness. Expect it to start eclipsing the more pedestrian long
predict what ingredients will trend for the next 11 months while green chilli in home recipes and join other things ending in “o”
labouring in the vain belief that you won’t remember we got it (avocado, potato, tamarillo maybe) as favourites.
all wrong last year – that we should have predicted the boom in CRUNCHY RICE Whether turmeric-golden and broken in a
microwave quesadilla makers, chokos and neenish tarts in 2021. Laotian salad or last night’s leftover basmati – compressed and
Taking the plunge, here are my jolly good ideas for 2022. then fried – expect crunchy rice to be a cheap way to add
NACHO EVERYTHING Expect the social media desire to load texture and toastiness to everything. It’s all the joy of tadhig at
everything with melted cheese to explode in the everyday with the bottom of Persian chelo rice, or the socarrat of a properly
nacho tater tots, nacho roast potatoes and nacho fries. cooked paella. See how it goes in this Korean-inspired snack.
TARAMA SAUCE We saw taramasalata dip everywhere pre-Covid,
but it’s back in sauces for anything from pan-fried fish and scallops,
to crunchy roasties or oven-warmed salt and vinegar chips. KOREAN LAVA WRAPS WITH CRISPY RICE CAKES,
ROSELLA The crimson glow this flower adds to jams and drinks AVOCADO AND JALAPENO
is only half the attraction. Known as hibiscus in the Caribbean and MAKES 18
gongura in India, its floral lemony flavour will assure its success. This dish works best when the rice is chilled and set overnight,
Here’s hoping we see the leaves make an appearance, too – a so begin this recipe a day ahead.
gongura curry is one of the best reasons to visit Hyderabad.
AJVAR This red capsicum dip, loaded with eggplant and garlic, 4 cups (600g) cooked sushi rice
is set to boom. Sitting between romesco and caponata, the Balkan 1 tbs rice wine vinegar
beauty goes with snags, grilled meat, potato salad or warm bread. 1 tbs mirin
PEPPERBERRY Another ingredient that is increasingly popping Vegetable oil, for shallow frying
up in our chef’s recipes, expect this eye-opening Indigenous joy Kewpie mayonnaise, to drizzle
to achieve far broader acceptance, and even love, this year. 2 x 5g packets roasted seaweed snack
INDIAN INGREDIENTS Also going mainstream this year will 1 Lebanese cucumber, thinly sliced
be a whole host of ingredients more regularly seen in Indian 2 ripe avocados, sliced
cuisine, such as ghee for ‘buttering’ filo and frying, that fresh 1-2 jalapenos, thinly sliced
cheese paneer and nigella seeds used increasingly not just in Black sesame seeds, yuzu juice and coriander leaves, to serve
bread but (wonderfully) with chicken.
NEW VINEGARS Vinegar is the new citrus, but forget balsamics Line base and sides of a 20cm square tin with plastic wrap. Mix
and aged sherry vinegars: now it’s all about kombucha, coconut cooked rice in a bowl with vinegar and mirin. Press rice into the
and pandan vinegars, as well as expensive Japanese rice wine prepared tin in an even layer. Fold over the plastic wrap and chill
vinegars and vinegars flavoured with Indigenous ingredients. overnight to firm. Once firm, invert rice onto a chopping board.
ALL HAIL THE POTATO Already used in a compostable plastic Cut into 18 rectangles approximately 6.5cm x 3cm.
wrap alternative, thanks to Australian innovators Great Wrap, Heat 2cm oil in a large non stick frying pan over high heat.
next up we can expect potatoes to star in a new milk alternative, Add half the rice cakes, being careful as they might spit. Cook
set to challenge booming milks like oat and barley. for 3-4 minutes, turning halfway, until golden on each side. Drain
TOUM Forget aioli, this egg-free cloud of garlicky goodness is on paper towel. Repeat with remaining rice cakes.
set to grace our summer barbecues. It’s good with roast lamb, too! Drizzle Kewpie mayonnaise on a sheet of seaweed. Top with a
URBAN PRODUCE Greening our cities with vegie plots and roof rice cake, and fold seaweed up around the sides of the rice.
gardens is something that cities like Sydney and Brooklyn are Season with salt flakes. Top with cucumber, avocado and
already dabbling in but – along with the subject of soil health – jalapeno. Sprinkle with sesame, drizzle with yuzu and top with
expect the debate to intensify and lead to more action. coriander. Repeat with remaining rice cakes. Serve immediately.
50 delicious.com.au
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SHELL HOUSE OPENS ITS DOORS 54 >> SUMMER TOMATOES ON THE PLATE 64 >> MATT MORAN’S SIMPLE SKEWERS 72 >>
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ANJUM ANAND’S INDIAN FEAST 104 >> FILIPINO FLAVOUR WITH YASMIN NEWMAN 112 >> YOGHURT DESSERTS 120
SAVOUR
PHOTOGRAPHY ELISE HASSEY
A sneak preview of
Sydney’s hottest new
venue, Shell House
Dining Room
delicious.com.au 53
Expectations were high for the reveal of Shell House, and Sydney wasn’t disappointed.
On the opening night of the Sky Bar, hospitality heavyweight Brett Robinson and his
team welcomed the delicious. family for an intimate preview of Shell House Dining Room.
RECIPES JOEL BICKFORD PHOTOGRAPHY ELISE HASSEY
ENTERTAINING.
delicious.com.au 55
“THIS EVENING SAW THE
SKY BAR ROOFTOP OPEN
TO REVELLERS FOR THE
VERY FIRST TIME.”
THERE WAS MAGIC IN THE AIR the night Brett Robinson and Anna Hewett threw an
intimate dinner party for some very special guests at Shell House. On the ground floor,
SET THE SCENE
Menzies had been enjoying a roaring trade for some weeks, but this evening saw the MENU
Sky Bar rooftop open to revellers for the very first time, and this dinner party a sneak “We always believe that it’s all about being
preview of the extremely elegant Shell House Dining Room. social around a table; the social interaction
The unveiling of Shell House, opposite Wynyard Station in the Sydney CBD, is the and the conversation and the joy of sitting
culmination of years of planning by Robinson and Hewett. The delicious. dinner was around sharing meals are the things that
a fitting way to mark the final piece of the puzzle slotting into place, says Robinson. drive us the most,” says Robinson. For the
“It was just such an amazing event. A lot of the guests at that dinner we know well event, they set out to strike a balance:
– we love Kerrie and we love the delicious. team,“ he says. “It was a really special “to make it easy for people to dine and
moment for Anna and I because we’ve been working on the venue for three years... casual enough for them to relax, but grand
We thought, well there’s just no better occasion to open a building like Shell House, enough to celebrate all the great dishes
with the cream of crop of the dining industry and food industry in the building.” that we’ve spent months working on.”
Beginning with Champagne on the terrace underneath the building’s imposing clock
face, guests were then taken through a mirrored sliding door to find themselves PLAYLIST
transported into the beautiful Clock Tower Bar set underneath the inner workings “I owned a music festival so I was very
of that famous clock itself. With wood panelling from floor to ceiling, plush furniture lucky in that I toured a lot of big DJs and
and a large marble bar, it is a truly breathtaking space. bands over the years. So I’ve got a huge
Just outside this room is the giant marble chef’s pass with Joel Bickford at the helm. selection of playlists from them... I’ve got
The timing of Shell House was serendipitous for the ex-Aria chef, who was ready for a one which is a Snoop Dogg playlist, from
change. “He just felt like he was looking for a new challenge,” Robinson says. In Shell when he came out. It’s a great funk, soul,
House, Bickford, Robinson and Hewett embrace a Mediterranean style of hospitality, hip hop playlist that’s super fun, super
where the distinction between inside and outside and set mealtimes blurs. An all-day light-hearted and a bit of a go-to for me.”
menu favours everything from a quick after-work bite and cocktail to a grand affair.
“We’ve just tried to design it so that there’s something for everyone,” Robinson says. DRINKS
The delicous. event let the team show off all that they’d been working towards. “We “We love starting the journey with great
definitely wanted to take the very best of the dishes off the menu and put something Champagne, I think that’s a must,” says
together that was really cohesive and that everyone could take notice of.” Robinson. Chablis and Burgundy always
feature, too. “And I’m kind of liking these
darker-based cocktails to finish my night at
@shellhousesydney
the moment.” The Midnight Oil cocktail
at Shell House is a current favourite.
56 delicious.com.au
ENTERTAINING.
CLOCKWISE: The
dining room’s
debut; crab and
caviar; drinks with
a view; plates by
chefs Joel Bickford
and Aaron Ward
“IT WAS THE FIRST
NIGHT THAT WE EVER
HAD ANYONE DINING
AT SHELL HOUSE.
IT WAS QUITE A
MILESTONE FOR US.”
delicious.com.au 59
“WE WANT TO BECOME
THE CENTRE OF
GRAVITY FOR THE CBD.
WE WANT PEOPLE TO
MAKE THE SPACE AN
ESSENTIAL PART OF
THEIR LIVES IN SYDNEY.”
ENTERTAINING.
“IT’S A BEAUTIFUL
DINING ROOM THAT
WE THINK IS GOING TO
MAKE A REAL MARK
ON THE SYDNEY
DINING LANDSCAPE.”
CRAB AND CAVIAR turning with tongs, for 2-3 minutes until
SERVES 4 crispy. Add the caperberries and lemon
“All the things that inspired us about a segments. Remove from the heat and
more Mediterranean style of dining and keep warm.
that sort of relaxed indoor-outdoor Heat a charcoal or wood fire over
summer feel, mixed with Joel’s great high heat. Using a fish basket or wire
commitment to local produce and rack, cook flounder skin side down for
provenance, has sort of made magic... The 6-8 minutes until cooked through.
menu’s a real adventure.” – Brett Robinson Alternatively, cook in a chargrill pan
over high heat for 8-10 minutes,
400g cooked spanner crab meat remembering that the fish will keep
180g mascarpone cooking after removed.
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon Plate the fish on a serving platter,
1 bunch chives, finely chopped pour over the nettle and caper butter,
80g black caviar and serve with lemon cheeks.
1 tbs extra virgin olive oil
4 slices soft white bread A DELICIOUS. X SHELL HOUSE
SPECIAL – THE MIKE-TINI
In a large bowl place crab, mascarpone, SERVES 2
lemon zest, half the chives and 1 tsp salt “The Mike-tini is an homage to my
flakes. Mix until combined. favourite cocktail, a wet martini, which I
Place an 8cm ring mould in the centre typically drink with half gin and half
of a serving plate and spoon 100g of crab vermouth, built over the rocks and served
mixture into the mould. Press to lightly in a tumbler with a lemon twist. I prefer
flatten out using the back of a spoon. using artisan, Australian spirits – balancing
Combine caviar with olive oil and
remaining chives, and spread evenly over
the crab meat, ensuring it is covered
Darling Distillery x Future Food System’s
collaborative gin (made from botanicals
grown at the Future Food System) with
IS BACK!
completely. Serve with soft white bread. Maidenii’s Classic Vermouth. It’s a Calling all hospitality
refreshing, complex twist on the martini businesses across
FLOUNDER WITH NETTLE, staple.” – Mike Bennie SYDNEY, MELBOURNE,
CAPER & LEMON BUTTER BRISBANE & ADELAIDE!
SERVES 4 45ml Australian gin American Express delicious.
45ml dry vermouth Month Out is back, bigger
200g unsalted butter, roughly chopped Pared lemon zest or brined green than ever in 2022. We invite
1 bunch nettles leaves, cleaned olives, thinly sliced to serve you all to join us at our virtual
150g caperberries in vinegar retailer briefing event, airing
2 lemons, cut into segments, quartered, Combine gin and vermouth in a cocktail on Monday Feb 7 at
plus extra lemon cheeks to serve shaker. Place a large ice cube in the 9:30am (AEDT).
2 x 450g whole flounder, scaled and centre of two tumblers and pour the
gutted Mike-tini over the top. Add a lemon twist
or olive slices, to serve.
Place butter in a medium saucepan
over medium heat, and cook for
5-6 minutes until butter is foaming and
nutty brown. Add nettles and cook,
delicious.com.au 63
EXCLUSIVE NEW
VIDEO CONTENT
Scan the code to
watch this summery
tart come together.
delicious.com.au/february
WINE MATCH: LANGE ESTATE
TSR SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021
The 2021 release is juicy and pure, with
ripe lime, passionfruit and gooseberry
flavours. This sauvignon blanc pairs
deliciously with seafood.
Pipis in spicy
lemongrass tomato
broth OPPOSITE:
Tomato & manchego
tarte tatin (recipes p 69)
“There’s nothing
better than late-
summer tomatoes.
Buy up big (bonus
points if you’ve
grown them
yourself!) and enjoy
them at their prime.”
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EXCLUSIVE NEW
VIDEO CONTENT
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we did it? Scan the
code to watch now!
delicious.com.au/february
delicious.com.au 73
1/
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WINE MATCH: ROSENTHAL
MARKER CHARDONNAY 2020
Rich in flavour, this wine has a complex
palate with stone fruits, cashews and
citrus notes. It will easily stack up to
dishes with robust flavours.
1/
1/
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BALANCING ACT.
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FASTER FOOD.
3/
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FASTER FOOD.
“THIS HARISSA
BUTTER IS SO EASY
TO MAKE AND
DELICIOUS WITH
ALL SORTS, FROM
GRILLED MEATS TO
ROASTED VEG.”
WINE MATCH: JILYARA HONEYCOMB
CORNER CABERNET 2019
Elegant and lively, with classic cabernet flavours
of plum, cassis and dried mint, this wine pairs
perfectly with any red meat summer dish.
1/
1/ 1/
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Spiced beef
& feta filo pie
EXCLUSIVE NEW
VIDEO CONTENT
Scan the code to
watch how these
pies are perfected.
delicious.com.au/february
Mabu Mabu From her Melbourne deli, cafe and restaurant,
Nornie Bero has become a champion of Indigenous
ingredients from across Australia. In her new book,
the Torres Strait Islander chef and business owner
offers up a menu 60,000 years in the making.
PHOTOGRAPHY ARMELLE HABIB
Kangaroo tartare
(recipe p 102)
1/
NORNIE BERO.
Semur chicken
“I taught myself how to make this dish after eating
something similar at a deli in London. It riffs on the idea
of poaching a variety of mushrooms and then cooking
them in herbs and spices. You really honour all the
flavours of the mushroom and elevate them with the
second cooking process. It’s a dish that keeps on giving.”
Wattleseed banana bread
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Saltbush pepperberry crocodile
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“THERE ARE A FEW ELEMENTS IN
THIS DISH, BUT THEY ALL COME
TOGETHER QUITE QUICKLY. PLUS
THE DIFFERENT SPICES BUILD UP
LAYERS OF FLAVOUR.”
@anjum_anand
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EXCLUSIVE NEW
VIDEO CONTENT
Want to see how
we did it? Scan the
code to watch now!
delicious.com.au/february
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Watermelon ice with
mango, coconut jelly
& ube jam (halo halo)
YOghurt
DESSERT HACK
Want to whip up an impressive yet
effortless dessert? We’ve made it simple
with the delicious. upside-down golden
syrup banana cake baking mix. Find the
full range in Woolworths nationally!
“THE TART FLAVOUR
OF GREEK YOGHURT
IN THESE SIMPLE
PANNA COTTAS IS
PERFECTLY BALANCED
BY THE SWEETNESS OF
THE TENDER, LIGHTLY
CARAMELISED
NECTARINES”
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“AS IF THESE EASY
BAKED DOUGHNUTS
WEREN’T ALREADY
LUSCIOUS ENOUGH,
WE’VE TOPPED THEM
WITH A GORGEOUS
YOGHURT GLAZE”
EXCLUSIVE NEW
VIDEO CONTENT
Watch how we
made these tasty
doughnuts now.
delicious.com.au/february
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PHOTOGRAPHY SERGIO VILLALBA
Take tapas at
Taberna la Sorpresa
in Cádiz (p 132)
A TAPAS CRAWL THROUGH CÁDIZ IN SOUTHERN SPAIN 132 >> THE WORLD’S BEST PLANT-BASED LUXURY
EXPERIENCES FOR ROAMING FOODIES 144 >> A GASTRONOMIC JOURNEY AROUND VICTORIA’S GIPPSLAND REGION 146
delicious.com.au 131
Borja González at La Casa del
Jerez BEHIND: Bodegas
Callejuela’s vineyards
132 delicious.com.au
CÁDIZ
P ROV I N C E
Perched at the southern tip of Spain, Cádiz takes aperitivo hour to
the next level. From fine local sherries to fresh-caught tuna and
moreish bar snacks, Paul Richardson tastes his way around one of
Europe’s most captivating gourmet regions.
PHOTOGRAPHY SERGIO VILLALBA & CHRISTIAN ROSILLO
@paulgrichardson
GLOBAL.
O
n a bright September morning, the La Viña
neighbourhood of Cádiz city is buzzing with life.
Old gents in berets play dominoes in neon-lit
cafes where flamenco music blares from the radio.
Housewives toting the weekly shop chew the fat
with neighbours while their kids run riot on the street. All along
Calle Palma the bars are setting out tables in the shade of palms
and orange trees. I pick one at random and duck inside for a
snifter of manzanilla sherry, bracingly fresh, along with a morsel of
fish that comes sizzling straight from the fryer.
Southern Europe doesn’t get much more southerly than Cádiz.
I don’t only mean in geographical terms – this province of
Andalucía hangs off the lower edge of Spain, seeming to reach out
to Africa before pulling back at the last minute – but in cultural and
culinary ones too. Cádiz turns the relaxed, informal Spanish
lifestyle into a fine art. The region’s food culture turns on a handful
of stellar ingredients, a world-class wine, and a custom that ought
to be protected under the UNESCO World Heritage scheme (and
would be, if Spain got its way): the lazy, grazy tapas crawl.
The province has a diversity of landscapes, ranging from the
peaks of Grazalema, where generous rainfall keeps the landscape
strikingly green; to the long necklace of wild beaches studded with
coastal towns, from pretty Sanlúcar de Barrameda (home of
manzanilla sherry) to salt-of-the-earth Barbate, Zahara de los
Atunes and surf-mad Tarifa in the far south.
Where to kick off your food journey? Perhaps in Cádiz itself, the
historic capital – salty, vibrant and big-hearted, jutting out like a
fortress into the Atlantic Ocean.
The city’s old Mercado Central, housed in a magnificent
18th-century building right in the centre of town, is where to go for
a crash-course in gaditano produce. Here you’ll find all the big
local guns: the superlative fish and shellfish landed in nearby ports;
the beef from the Retinta breed, its dense dark meat marbled with
fat; and vegetables from the rich arable land behind the coast. Not
forgetting peerless regional delicacies such as mojama (air-dried
tuna, often served in slices with toasted almonds), payoyo goat’s
cheese from the Grazalema hills, or pine nuts from the forests
behind Barbate.
Then it’s out into the streets, where the midday aperitif round is
just beginning. The bars of Cádiz are an ecosystem in which
neighbourhood drop-ins, harbourside boozers, historic taverns
and chic gastrobars happily coexist. You’ll quickly begin to
recognise the set-in-stone local tapas repertoire, which includes
such popular items as tortillitas de camarones (shrimp fritters
splotched on a hot griddle), papas aliñás (potatoes in an olive oil
and parsley vinaigrette) and cazón en adobo (tender chunks of
dogfish steeped in a vinegar and cumin marinade and fried in light
batter). At Casa Manteca, a creaky old tavern in La Viña with
beamed ceilings and strip lighting, the house speciality is
chicharrones: cured pork belly presented in wafer-thin slices on
old-fashioned waxed paper. At Freiduría Las Flores, on a little
square near the market, it’s pescaíto frito, the region’s signature
dish of mixed fish dredged in wheat and chickpea flour, then fried
134 delicious.com.au
136 delicious.com.au
The rugged hills
of Grazalema
delicious.com.au 139
INSIDER.
TRAVEL NEWS
resort Conrad Chia Laguna Sardinia (above). Both
properties are located in the Italian island’s Chia
region, renowned for its golden sandy beaches and
sparkling coastal lagoons. hilton.com
Hot destinations, cool stays, travel essentials
& everything in transit.
BOOK SHELF
Michelle Law’s Asian Girls
are Going Places (Hardie
Grant, $27.99) is a travel
book with a difference,
addressing the joys, fears
and obligations unique to
Asian women navigating the
world. hardiegrant.com.au
LUST LIST
Australia’s first Oakwood Premier is now open in
Melbourne’s Southbank. The purpose-built $150
million, 40-storey property overlooks the Yarra River,
Albert Park and Port Phillip Bay. It boasts 392
luxurious short- and long-stay apartments and a sky
bar 130 metres above the ground with 360-degree
views. oakwood.com/premier-melbourne
Created for modern
explorers, Viking
Cologne by Creed
(100ml, $459) is
HOT SHOT a universal scent
combining rich
Innovative Sydney-based woody base notes
coffee company Single O has with zesty bergamot
created the first fully
compostable drip coffee bag.
FLYING HIGH
Take your love of food to new heights with the
and citrus.
creedperfume.com.au
Perfect for travel, the game- world’s first zipline fine dining experience at Edited by Rosemary Slade
changing Parachutes are filled Soneva Fushi in the Maldives. Flying Sauces begins
with pre-ground brew-ready with a 200-metre zipline route that delivers diners @somestylishchick
to an elevated treetop table near Dolphin Beach,
coffee and nitro-flushed to before serving up a six-course seasonal menu and
ensure maximum flavour for DELICIOUS.COM.AU/TRAVEL Go online for more
wine pairing. soneva.com
travel news from Australia and around the world.
three months. singleo.com.au
140 delicious.com.au
GREECE
Athens
(Piraeus)
ISRAEL
Mediterranean
Sea Haifa VARIET Y OF CEYLON TEAS, SRI L ANK A
Cairo (Port Said) JORDAN
Suez Canal Aqaba
Luxor (Safaga) Sharm el-Sheikh
INDIA
EGYPT Muscat
OMAN Cruise with Viking and explore the world in Scandinavian
THAILAND
Red Sea Mumbai
Salālah Arabian Sea Bangkok comfort on modern spacious ships with only 930 guests.
Goa (Mormugao) (Laem Chabang)
N Relax knowing you are in safe hands with Viking’s industry
Koh Samui
Colombo Singapore leading health and safety protocols; giving you peace of
Cruise Indian SINGAPORE
MALAYSIA
Overnight in Port Ocean
George Town
mind in this new age of cruising, whether it be your first
Kuala Lumpur (Port Klang)
time or the next.
NEW! VOYAGE OF MARCO POLO Explore coastal gems, ancient ruins, legendary cities and
ATHENS – BANGKOK or vice versa trace the routes of the earliest merchants from Greece to
36 DAYS | 16 GUIDED TOURS | 10 COUNTRIES Thailand. Simply unpack once and settle in, with privileged
SET SAIL OCT 2022; APR 2023 access to numerous sights and attractions, world class dining
From $16,995pp in Veranda stateroom choices, award winning service, and a unique on board
From $20,595pp in Penthouse Veranda enrichment program.
THE NEW
INTERNATIONAL
The ‘new normal’ for travel means new rules
and extra documents, writes Rosemary Slade,
but with preparation – and a little patience – it
needn’t be a bumpy ride. Here’s what to
TRAVEL
(Chinese) standards. And many US airlines prohibit masks with
valves and vents. Some carriers suggest frequent mask changes,
expect next time you travel internationally. so ensure you have a) the right masks and b) enough of them.
142 delicious.com.au
INSIDER.
4
1
delicious.com.au 143
GREEN GOURMANDS
LUXE PLANT-BASED TRAVELS
delicious.com.au 145
NEW GROOVE
146 delicious.com.au
POSTCARD.
Their Venus Blue, a blue-vein cheese made arrive. “In spring, it’s apples,” says co-owner
with raw milk cultures “to let the expression of Tanya Bertino, of the seasonal crop gifted by
our farm come through”, and semi-hard, raw locals. Homegrown produce stars at this retro
milk Moyarra Reserve are winning plaudits. Lindenow cafe, with its mismatched porcelain
plates and 1950s wallpaper. The deftly made
PROM COUNTRY ‘counter sweets’ are more grown up than
Toward Wilsons Promontory, the rugged, freckles and cobbers: think frangipane and
salt-kissed southern tip of Australia, are pear tart or chocolate mousse cake with
makers, farm gates and tiny towns. Gurneys candied cumquat. It’s not far to Lightfoot &
Cider, near Fish Creek, delivers paddles of Sons, a ubiquitous Gippsland wine label.
crisp wild-ferment ciders and sweeping views Perched above the Mitchell River valley, the
of farmland, orchards and sea from its hilltop awarded family-run winery is an idyllic spot for
cellar door. Try the limited-edition Scrumpy, small-batch single-block pinot noir, shiraz and
made from tart, locally foraged wild apples. chardonnay paired with local grazing plates.
Gurneys lies at the start of the 72km Great
Southern Rail Trail, a bucolic loop between SHIP TO SHORE
Leongatha and Port Welshpool humming with A raft of new venues is luring crowds to
lowing cows and screeching gang gangs. Gippsland Lakes. At Paynesville, newcomer
Grab a picnic hamper from Gibson’s Larder Sardine Cantina is earning fans with its
at Fish Creek and wander its sun-dappled charcuterie and cheese plates and long local
path to find grassy picnic spots by the creek. wine list. The wine bar and shop is the second
Nearby is Meeniyan, a hamlet becoming a outpost of ex-Vue de monde chef Mark Briggs
hub for South Gippsland fare. On Friday night and wife Victoria. At Sardine Dining, next
outdoors at Meeniyan Square, Trulli is door, Briggs champions Gippsland produce
pumping with southern Italian-style pastas and lesser-known fish plucked from the icy
and puffy-crust wood-fired pizzas, hand-made Great Southern Ocean. This is unpretentious
with semolina and spelt and toppings that fine dining, with the option of a four-course
speak of the seasons and land. Moo’s at tasting menu or a degustation of the chef’s
Meeniyan, a chic renovated weatherboard favourites. Don’t miss the signature sardines,
cottage with a deck, serves up breakfast hand-filleted and served with bright pink,
classics and a bistro lunch and dinner singing pickled Spanish onions and pine oil.
with local fare. Pandesal Bakery is the go-to Once a fisherman’s wharf, today Pier 70 is
for pastries and sourdough. Meeniyan Pantry a spruced-up weatherboard that dishes up
& Cellar boasts excellent Gippsland wines, lunch and dinner to sparkling lake views.
local meats and produce. Nearby is concept From here, take the free pedestrian ferry to
store Mika and Max, awash with bohemian Raymond Island to walk the 1.2km Koala Trail,
wares, linen dresses and rustic homewares. where dozens of koalas can be spied conked
The Dairy at Ross Farm, near Meeniyan, out in the gums. Check-in at Captain’s Cove,
oozes rustic-luxe appeal. The three-bedroom waterfront apartments with floor-to-ceiling
retreat, on an old dairy farm, wraps around a glass, expansive decks and a private jetty.
courtyard and fire pit overlooking green Lakes Entrance welcomed Sodafish in 2020.
pastures by day and inky star-studded skies The floating restaurant, built on the old
at night. Unwind in the circular concrete bath Raymond Island ferry, is run by chef Nick
with a glass of welcome bubbles or relax by Mahlook and his sister Sam and is all about
the pot belly fire. The well-equipped kitchen zero miles, sustainability and foraging. Step
is stocked with the makings of a farmhouse off the esplanade to views of bobbing fishing
breakfast, including eggs from the resident boats and pelicans and a menu that might
chooks. Ross Farm offers two other stays: the include wood-fired octopus with XO and
one-bedroom Cabin and two-bedroom Barn. sorrel, grilled asparagus with black garlic and
sea spinach or the catch-of-the-day, fried
FEAST EAST GIPPSLAND golden in a light-as-air sourdough batter. You
The Long Paddock is overflowing with can order the same fish and chips a deck
lemons, mandarins and tangerines when we below at their takeaway chippery.
delicious.com.au 149
®
AGENDA.
ON THE AGENDA
Treat yourself to the latest must-have products, experiences and ideas from our
advertisers, from a stand-out salt to crowd pleasing cheese.
delicious.com.au 151
FEB
2022
INDEX 84
STARTERS,
SIDES & LIGHT
94
MEALS
Beer-battered zucchini flowers
with anchovies and mozzarella ......... p 18
Cabbage & green bean slaw with
chilli-peanut dressing (lumpiang “STICK TO YOUR
hubad) (V) ....................................... p 114
Crab and caviar .................................... p 63 RESOLUTIONS
Grilled zucchini with spiced chickpea salsa WITH UPDATED
and pumpkin seed dressing (V) ...... p 110
Haloumi & peach skewers with SALADS AND
yoghurt pita bread (V)....................... p 76 VEGIE-FOCUSED
Kangaroo tartare................................. p 102
Korean lava wraps with crispy rice cakes DISHES THAT
avocado and jalapeno (V) ................. p 50 ARE BIG ON
Poached spicy mushrooms (V)............ p 101
Saag paneer (V) .................................... p 42 FLAVOUR!”
Salmon skewers with a miso & – GEORGIE ESDAILE
marmalade glaze .............................. p 76
Saltbush pepperberry crocodile ......... p 102
Sardines with sweet & sour red onion,
mint and pine nuts............................ p 18 Harissa butter
mushrooms with sumac
Soy & honey chicken wings with lime
onion salad
chilli salt ............................................ p 48
Spicy tuna & green papaya salad ......... p 87
Tandoori cauliflower with cashew
yoghurt and lentil salad (V) ............. p 109
152 delicious.com.au
INDEX.
109
SWEET THINGS
Baked raspberry doughnuts with “YOGHURT IS
yoghurt glaze.................................. p 126
Coconut yoghurt & matcha green tea
SUCH A VERSATILE
popsicles......................................... p 126 INGREDIENT IN
Gluten-free mango yoghurt
cheesecake ..................................... p 129
BOTH SWEET AND
Lemon yoghurt cake with labneh and SAVOURY DISHES.”
lemon syrup .................................... p 126
Mango, tapioca pearl & coconut
– HELENA MOURSELLAS
parfaits ........................................... p 110
Strawberry crostata with Frangelico
Baked raspberry
mascarpone ...................................... p 20 doughnuts with
Upside-down golden syrup banana cake yoghurt glaze
with hokey pokey cream................. p 129
Vanilla & mango fro-yo with candied
macadamia ..................................... p 129
Walnut cake .......................................... p 44
Watermelon ice with mango, coconut
jelly & ube jam (halo halo) .............. p 118
Wattleseed banana bread .................. p 101
Wattleseed scones.............................. p 102
Yoghurt panna cotta with honeyed
nectarines ..................................... p 126
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VIVA LA MEXICO!
Pablo Galindo Vargas is a proud Mexico City native. The co-owner
of Milpa Collective, which includes Sydney’s Calita, Carbòn, Taqiza
and Sonora, shares his love for his home town’s culture and cuisine.
MEXICO CITY OFFERS incredible Museo Frida Kahlo (also known as Casa
diversity – there’s a place for everyone Azul for its cobalt-blue exterior) is an
and every taste. institution, where Frida threw legendary
I was born and raised in Mexico City parties in the 1940s (which inspired our
and lived there until I was 25 years old. most recent Sydney venue Londres 126).
I miss the high energy of this bustling city There’s famous markets such as the
– all the cultural activities, street food Mercado Coyoacan, Mercado Roma
and endless nightlife (though I don’t miss and La Lagunilla antique market, and
the traffic!). Being raised in such a Mercado Jamaica for flowers, traditional
dynamic, culturally rich part of the world, medicine, herbs and brujeria (witchcraft).
you can’t help but develop a deep love For a true taste of Mexico City, you
of the place, its people, food and history. must try street food. There’s tacos, elotes,
I recommend a visit to Templo Mayor tlacoyos, gorditas, flautas, esquites, frutas,
and Zócalo: the cultural and political quesadillas, tamales, broiled sweet
154 delicious.com.au
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