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FEBRUARY 2022 | VOTED MAGAZINE BRAND OF THE YEAR

NEW YEAR REFRESH


80+ NOURISHING RECIPES

With yuzu and


passionfruit!

+ SIX BRIGHT SALADS


GLUTEN-FREE + MIDDLE EASTERN
WEEKNIGHTS

MANGO + USE IT UP: TOMATOES


+ BAKED RASPBERRY
DOUGHNUTS

YOGHURT + SYDNEY’S HOTTEST


NEW VENUE
INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL

CHEESECAKE RETURNS! PRE-FLIGHT


CHECKLIST INSIDE…

ANJUM ANAND MATT MORAN COLIN


Indian summer Spicy lamb kofta FASSNIDGE
flavours with tzatziki Sticky chicken wings
FEBRUARY
CONTENTS

64
CONTENTS.

REGULARS
6 Ed’s Letter
8 Talk to Us
10 Menus
12 delicious. Drinks Club
Pairing Qantas Wines with recipes
from this issue.
23 Insider: News
28 Review
Chef Will Meyrick takes his skills west.
30 Out & About
40 Critic and the Comic
Mike and Merrick fire up for a smoky,
sticky barbecue dish.
42 Cheese Counter
The Studd siblings get fresh with
an iconic Indian cheese.
44 Yotam Ottolenghi
A classic walnut cake gets an update.
46 Subscribe to delicious.
48 Meat Market
The chef and the butcher wing it
with an underrated piece of meat.
50 I’m Loving
Matt Preston boldly predicts the food

120 destined to trend in 2022.


140 Insider: Travel

104 Guest Chef FOLLOW US...


SAVOUR Have an Indian summer with Anjum
@deliciousAUS
15 In Season Anand’s spice-laced recipes.
Italian recipes by Adelaide chef Laura 112 Extract
Sharrad for a slice of la dolce vita. Food writer Yasmin Newman shares delicious.com.au
54 Entertaining the flavours of her Filipino heritage. For more delicious. content.
Sydney’s Shell House welcomes the 120 Wicked
delicious. family for a special night. It’s naughty meets nice with these
64 No Waste yoghurt-based desserts.
ON THE COVER
Gluten-free mango yoghurt
Flavoursome ideas for the season’s
cheesecake (recipe p 129)
crop of sun-ripened tomatoes.
72 Matt Moran TRAVEL Recipe Georgie Esdaile
Photography Chris Court
Stick to these new skewer recipes 132 Global
Styling Kirsten Jenkins
and perfect the barbecue staple. Discover the Spanish province
80 Balancing Act where snacking is elevated to art.
Asian-inspired salads for fresh-as-it- 144 Postcard
gets summer feasting. The top destinations around the OFFICIAL DELICIOUS.
88 Faster Food globe for plant-based adventurers. TEST KITCHEN SUPPLIER:
Our meat is supplied by Vic’s Meat
Take a trip to the Middle East every 146 Local Travel (vicsmeat.com.au).
evening with our midweek meals. A gourmet tour of Victoria’s vast
96 Nornie Bero Gippsland region.
The Torres Strait Islander chef offers 154 Passport
a compelling taste of Australia. Pablo Galindo Vargas’ Mexico City.

delicious.com.au 5
6
eustonellis.com
‘Tickled Pink’ tea towel
from Euston + Ellis
PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY NIGEL LOUGH
PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS
UNTIL 25 APR 2022
ONLY IN MELBOURNE
NATIONAL GALLERY OF VICTORIA

PRESENTING PARTNER EXCLUSIVE PARTNER ORGANISING INSTITUTION


INBOX.

delicious.
TO US EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Kerrie McCallum

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
OUR MOST-LIKED POST Samantha Jones

#MAKEITDELICIOUS
DIGITAL DIRECTOR CREATIVE DIRECTOR FOOD DIRECTOR
John Hannan Hayley Incoll Phoebe Wood
Donut panic, we’ve found EDITORIAL
your new fave dessert. Deputy Editor Krysia Bonkowski
Senior Subeditor/Copywriter Corinne Parkes
These lemon meringue bombe Travel Editor Rosemary Slade
alaska doughnuts were your top Editorial Coordinator Monika Hecimovic

Christmas miracle! Find the ART


Art Director Rebecca Buttrose
recipe at delicious.com.au Style Editor Kirsten Jenkins
Recipe: @geodoes
FOOD
Photography: @bendearnley Food Editor Georgie Esdaile
Styling: @kirstenljenkins Assistant Food Editor Helena Moursellas
Food Enquiries askdelicious@news.com.au

DIGITAL
THE JOY OF COOKING: Congratulations on your Digital Editor Erina Starkey
Motion Graphics Designer Jemma Collins
fabulous magazine. I have been a loyal subscriber since the Senior Digital Producer Bella Nilsson
Contributing Food Editor, Digital Warren Mendes
beginning, and I gift my foodie daughter a subscription for her
birthday each year. I think we are addicted! I am 82 years young Senior Editor Matt Preston
Contributing Editor Kate Gibbs
and I love cooking great food from your recipes for my family
Contributors Anjum Anand, Mike Bennie, Nornie Bero, Joel Bickford, Max Brearley,
and friends. I am then ‘in my happy place’, lost in the creativity Ivy Carruth, Colin Fassnidge, Pablo Galindo Vargas, Belinda Luksic, Matt Moran,
of experimenting, tasting, sharing and remembering wonderful Yasmin Newman, Yotam Ottolenghi, Francesca Percy, Anthony Puharich,
Paul Richardson, Laura Sharrad, Ellie Studd, Sam Studd, Merrick Watts
past food experiences during my extensive world travels. Many
of these trips were focused on food, and the food and wine Managing Director, National Sales Lou Barrett
cultures of areas we were in, as well as the joy of living and National GM, News Amp Renee Sycamore
Classifieds Advertising Darren Penny 1300 139 305
being in the moment. Thank you! Nellie Brierly WA Group Sales Director Marissa McNish marissa.mcnish@news.com.au
Head of Creative Richard McAuliffe Head of Creative Operations Eva Chown
Head of Art Karen Ng Head of Content Brooke Lewis
Senior Art Directors Lisa Klaus, Elen Le Glanic, Nicole Vonwiller
Senior Content Writers Julian Hartley, Rosie Double, Tiffany Pilcher, Colin Sevitt
Creative Producers Sarah Mury, Louise Davids, Kristie Walden
THE WINNER IS... Production Manager Neridah Burke
neridah.burke@news.com.au
Advertising Production adproduction@news.com.au
I love my delicious. subscription!
GM Product & Partnerships, Food Corp Bianca Camilleri
Each month I try to use as many GM Product Integration Nicole Waudby
Product Integration Director Amanda Spackman
of the recipes as I possibly can
Senior Product Integration Manager, Food Corp Adelaide Johnson
before the next issue arrives. Product Integration Manager, Food Corp Harry Parsons
Senior Marketing Manager, Food Corp Michelle Kaplan
My record so far is only 14, but Marketing Manager, Partnerships & Experiential, Food Corp Bianca DeCandia
then I tag the remaining recipes Marketing Executive, Food Corp Holly Berckelman
holly.berckelman@news.com.au
I want to come back to. We were so excited about the Events Manager Joanne Khawaja
Head of Production & Talent, Food Corp Mim Stacey
honey joy cheesecake in the September issue, as we’d
had our very first harvest of honey from our beehive. Managing Director, Food Corp Fiona Nilsson
Director of Communications Sharyn Whitten
The cheesecake was magnificent, made all the more Head of Retail Marketing, Retail Sales & Marketing Rohan Smith
exciting by the distinctive perfume and flavours of the Subscription Enquiries 1300 656 933; subs@magsonline.com.au ISSN 1448-4455
delicious. Editorial (02) 8045 4909; hello@delicious.com.au
tea tree blooming in our area! Now I need to get on to 2 Holt St, Surry Hills, NSW 2010
renewing my subscription... Sheryl Nicolson Melbourne Office, HWT Tower, Level 5, 40 City Rd, Southbank, Vic 3006, tel: (03) 9292 2000.
delicious. is published by NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd (ACN 088 923 906), 2 Holt St, Surry Hills, NSW 2010,
ED’S NOTE: Congratulations, Sheryl! You’ve won a Tefal tel: (02) 9288 3000. NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd is a wholly owned subsidiary of News Limited (ACN 007 871 178).
Copyright 2021 by NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd. All rights reserved. Colour separations News PreMedia.
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Distributed by Ovato Retail Distribution Pty Ltd, tel: 1300 650 666.
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healthy options that the whole family will love, all in PRIVACY NOTICE NewsLifeMedia collects your personal information to assist us in providing the goods or
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8 delicious.com.au
INTRODUCING THE NEW BAKING
RANGE BY DELICIOUS.

OUR HELP YOU WHIP UP OUR MOST


POPULAR DESSERT RECIPES, WHEN TIME IS TIGHT

Show us your creations @deliciousbakeclub

WATCH HOW TO TAKE THEM TO THE NEXT LEVEL AT


DELICIOUS.COM.AU/BAKINGRANGE OR SCAN THE CODE:
FEBRUARY

MENUS
ON THE V EG LONG LUNCH FRE SH TA K E

Haloumi & peach


skewers with yoghurt
pita bread

10 delicious.com.au
Be plant
promiscuous.

Calilujah!

califiafarms.com.au | @califiafarmsau
A delicious
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delicious.com.au 13
IN SEASON
Beer-battered zucchini
flowers with anchovies and
mozzarella (recipe p 18)
Sardines with
sweet & sour red
onion, mint and
pine nuts
(recipe p 18)

Bonnie and Neil Rockpool


tablecloth and Small Checkers
napkins (used throughout)
bonnieandneil.com.au

delicious.com.au 17
IN SEASON.

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Watch our video
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delicious.com.au/february

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Inside Fugazzi BELOW: Chefs Max and
Laura Sharrad and restaurateur Simon
Kardachi are co-owners of Fugazzi
LET’S
FIGHT

Your family could be losing


$195 a month by wasting food.

Find out how to save food and money aT


www.fightfoodwaste.org
INSIDER.

INSIDER NEWS
Hot tables, lust-have products, the latest news, trends & more.
Edited by Erina Starkey

@erinastarkey

TA B L E TA L K

2
One of the country’s hottest restaurants has
opened in Adelaide. Jake Kellie, former head
chef of Michelin-starred Singaporean modern
barbecue restaurant Burnt Ends, is blazing a trail
at arkhé in Norwood. The fire-powered kitchen is
fuelled by a 2.5-tonne dual-cavity wood oven that

1
There’s no stopping the negroni. At new also feeds four elevation grills. Local seafood stars,
Brisbane bar and trattoria, Sasso Italiano, from whole-roasted dory with a fennel and seaweed
you can order the Italian aperitivo cocktail salad to a potato crumpet with whipped cod’s roe. TRENDING NOW
11 different ways. Some come with a whiff of

3
One of many exciting spaces within The
rosemary smoke, others with a scoop of Campari Tasman, Hobart’s new Luxury Collection Hotel, NEGRONI
sorbet. You can also turn your tipple into a ‘birthday Mary Mary is an intimate cocktail bar helmed FOUNTAINS
negroni’ using the bar’s collection of vintage gins, by award-winning bartender, Charlie Ainsbury. The Sip from the
fountain of
which span six decades. From the food side of the venue is named from its location – the former St
vermouth (and gin
menu, expect all the red-sauce classics, from Mary’s Hospital, with the bar in the old strong room. and Campari) at
homemade pizza and pasta to a 1kg bistecca alla Today, it holds a different kind of drug. Taste your Italian trattoria
Fiorentina steak cooked in the Woolloongabba way around the Apple Isle’s best small-batch spirits, Tippy-Tay in the
restaurant’s bespoke Marana Forni woodfire oven. featuring local whiskies, gins and native ingredients. Melbourne CBD.

DELICIOUS.COM.AU/EAT-OUT Go online for weekly restaurant news and reviews from our critics and reviewers.
delicious.com.au 23
TOP DROP
Santa Margherita wines has
partnered with Silvia Colloca
to celebrate 60 years of its
best-selling pinot grigio. The crisp

MADE IN THE SHADE


and well-balanced vino pairs
perfectly with seafood and soft
fresh cheeses like mozzarella.
santamargheritawines.com
Out of the blue, Maison Balzac has released a chic
new colourway inspired by the sapphire shores of
Cadaqués in Spain. The Les Fruits De Mer capsule
collection features the signature Gobelets, carafe set,
Coucou vase and DotDot bowl in a brilliant new
Master the art of table indigo hue. maisonbalzac.com
dressing with floral linen
napkins by Mary Schepisi,
printed from original
artworks. $75 for four.
maryschepisidesigns.com

THE BEST CURE


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how to salt, dry and cure your
own meats at home with
Charcuterie From Scratch by COOL SET-UP
Tim Hayward ($24.99, Hardie LG’s new InstaView Door-in-
Grant). Create an impressive Door Side-by-Side fridge is an
spread with recipes for entertainer’s best friend, with
homemade pate, pastrami, inbuilt wine racks, chilled
Take the prep work out of water dispenser and craft ice
smoked bacon, and more.
pre-mixed drinks with Jack maker. $2699 from
Daniel’s new Tennessee harveynorman.com.au
Seltzers, spiked with zesty
SEA CHANGE lemon and blood orange.
jackdaniels.com
Alanna Sapwell has
taken over the reins
of seaside stalwart,
Beach Byron Bay. The
THE NEW BLACK
star chef is diving in Elevate your tablescape with
headfirst this month,
with a fresh new Villeroy & Boch’s Manufacture
menu that celebrates
sustainable seafood
Rock crystal glassware. The
and locally grown statement range reveals a bold
Northern Rivers
produce. She’s joined profile with a striking black stem
by former Bennelong and base. $106 for a set of four.
sommelier, Seamus
Brandt. villeroy-boch.com.au

24 delicious.com.au
INSIDER.

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26 delicious.com.au
FROM TOP: seafood paella paired
with Yalumba Barossa Bush Vine
Grenache 2019; the dining area
at Opa Bar + Mezze.

INTO THE SEA


The Mediterranean offers an abundance of fresh seafood
and quality produce, and the region’s countries take this to
full advantage with a smorgasbord of flavour-rich dishes.
TAKING IN THE flavours and traditions “I also love a light red with very
of Egypt, Turkey, Levant, Greece, Italy, light tannins.”
Southern France and more, Mediterranean However, Colombo also encourages
cuisine is characterised by olive oil, people to “have fun and to dare, be
plenty of fresh produce, red meat, curious and experiment” with pairings.
fish, legumes and, of course, wine. “Try a floral, aromatic red wine with
Pairing these elements well is key to something full flavoured, maybe even
enjoying them at their best, according spicy,” he says. “A chilled red wine with
to sommelier Jonathan Colombo from chargrilled prawns, herbs and tomato is
Opa Bar + Mezze in Brisbane. also a fun way to break the rules.”
SOMMELIER’S CHOICE “My tip is to try to bring harmony The popular Opa Bar + Mezze
“I enjoy Yalumba’s Barossa to the dining experience by pairing (opabar.com.au) serves up authentic
Bush Vine Grenache 2019 rich food with rich wine and fresh, Greek fare with a contemporary twist
for the earthy, smoky light flavours with something more in a light-filled space by the Brisbane
flavour it provides. It goes delicate,” he says. River. Other eateries that highlight the
well with ocean trout; the With this in mind, Colombo diverse cuisine of the Mediterranean
tannins cut through the recommends complementing seafood include fellow Brisbane CBD venue
good fats and bring a dishes with a crisp drop featuring Rico Bar + Dining (ricodining.com.au),
great harmony to the dish.” aromatic herbs and citrus notes. Georges on Waymouth in Adelaide
– Jonathan Colombo “White and sparkling wines tend (georgesonwaymouth.com.au) and Bellota
to lend themselves best here,” he says. Wine Bar in Melbourne (bellota.com.au).
EAT OUT.

Due WEST
Chef Will Meyrick has traded Bali for Perth, and his contribution
to the city leaves a lasting impression, writes Max Brearley.
@willstreetperth

MANY PERTH DINERS ALREADY know I’ve seen of this increasingly ubiquitous
of Will Meyrick, his Bali eateries Mama San, ingredient – which leans more to being
Sarong and Hujan Locale on the radar of mussel-like than, say, a rock oyster.
island regulars. For those once unfamiliar Smoked eel betel leaf is umami laden
with the Scottish chef, who honed his skills thanks to dried shrimp and delivers a
at Sydney’s Longrain and Jimmy Liks and whack of heat from the layering of chilli,
across Asia, the secret is out: bookings for pepperberry leaf, nam prik and jaew bong.

PHOTOGRAPHY DANICA ZUKS & THOM DAVIDSON


Will St. were initially impenetrable. Calcutta-inspired slow-cooked goat
There’s no faux-Balinese styling here, nihari with warrigal greens is all comfort,
the 120-seat restaurant and bar a blend of with a subtle heat that takes complexity
rough-hewn sandstone, blackbutt flooring from saffron, mustard oil and yoghurt.
and arrangements of dried wildflowers The signature char siew pork hock is a
from WA’s Mid West, suspended from the showstopper. Pulling the fragrant, sweet,
ceiling. It’s all in line with Meyrick’s menu: spicy meat from the bone is the theatre of
contemporary and stylish. the dish, but the supporting cast – braised CLOCKWISE: Dessert
Vibrant and saline, Akoya oysters from miso cabbage, Sichuan pickled cucumber, is served; the dining
room’s organic interiors;
Albany are lifted with buttermilk, green Davidson plum and Mandarin pancakes – Meyrick, in white, and the
chilli, chardonnay vinegar and a dab of sea deserve their own curtain call. Will St. team (inset); char
parsley oil. It’s one of the best expressions 228 Carr Place, Leederville siew pork hock

3 OF A KIND Summer produce as seen at Carriageworks Farmers’ Market.


Berries such as Figs take centre stage as Oysters are in their

1 raspberries, blueberries
and strawberries, and
stone fruit such as peaches,
2 we move into late
summer. The signs of a
sweet fig are a heavy weight,
3 prime now and are lovely
freshly shucked, steamed
or thrown on the BBQ. Sydney
plums and nectarines, hit supple skin and a drop of Rock oysters are a little more
their stride over summer. syrupy juice on the underside. complex than Pacific oysters.
For more on the latest restaurant, cafe and bar reviews, head to delicious.com.au/eat-out.

28 delicious.com.au
DELICIOUS. CONFIDENTIAL

1 2 3
DELICIOUS. @ SHELL HOUSE

ALWAYS SO MANY
LAUGHS!” – KERRIE MCCALLUM

With Champagne flutes in


hand, the delicious. family
gathered for an intimate
preview of Sydney’s hottest
new venue, Shell House
Dining Room, for a special
20th-birthday celebration.

1. delicious. Editorial Director Kerrie McCallum


leads the birthday speeches. 2. The new Clock
9 8 Tower Bar was the ultimate setting for a luxe
dinner. 3. Tables were adorned with stunning 4
blooms from Poho Flowers. 4. The menu by
7 Shell House Culinary Director Joel Bickford
features Mediterranean-style dishes. 5. Set
high above Sydney’s CBD, the Shell House
rooftop is the place to be this summer. 6. Point
Group CEO Brett Robinson with Darren
Robertson and Magdalena Roze. 7. Mitch
Edwards, Bettina Brown, Merrick Watts and
Shell House interior stylist Anna Hewett.
8. Joel Bickford with delicious. Editor-in-Chief
Samantha Jones. 9. Matt Preston and
Colin Fassnidge.
5
PHOTOGRAPHY ELISE HASSEY

30 delicious.com.au
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THE CRITIC’S PICKS

T.I.N.A DRINKS, $7
It’s great to see craft,
non-alcoholic products
hitting the market and
done so righteously. This
is a cocktail, sans booze,
based around Taiwanese
oolong tea combined with
aromatic and flavoursome
botanicals. It’s delicious,

CRITIC & THE COMIC


refreshing and intriguing.

THE NEW SCENT


GOLDEN CHILD LAZY
SUNDAY LIGHT RED
2021, $30

OF S This is a light, bright red


by a young gun producer.
The blend of Adelaide
Hills syrah and pinot noir
results in a perfectly
slurpy and crisp red with
loads of tart, red berry

PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS COURT STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS
fruit and a good dusting
of herbal spice. Yum.

MAKU HEMP CHERRY


SOUR, $5

MIKE BENNIE IS ALSO CO-OWNER OF A SYDNEY-BASED WINE AND LIQUOR RETAIL BUSINESS
This compelling, thirst-
quenching beer is built
around sour cherry juice,
with a lively tang and the
nuttiness of roasted hemp
seeds. It’s an ideal match
to the sweet glaze and
perfect for resetting your
palate after each chomp.

THE COMIC’S WILDCARD

JACK DANIEL’S APPLE


TENNESSEE, $54
I agree with Mike on the
Old Fashioned, but would
try Jack Daniel’s Tennessee
Apple. The bourbon has
natural cut-through and a
slightly sweet apple lift
that will bring the dish to
life. Serve over ice, with a
cherry on top for Mike!
CRITIC & THE COMIC.

Barbecued glazed
beef skewers with
iceberg slaw,
find the recipe at
delicious.com.au
“I like our Comic’s suggestion of
pairing a young tempranillo with
these saucy, sticky skewers. And
Mike’s right: chilling it would take
things to a new level, perfect for
a barbecue on a balmy evening!”
– Phoebe Wood, delicious.
food director
CHEESE COUNTER.

Ellie and Sam Studd sing the praises


of India’s most iconic cheese, paneer,
and serve up their simple, nourishing
take on a classic recipe.

@thestuddsiblings

SAAG PANEER to stop cooking. Squeeze out excess


INDIA IS THE LARGEST producer of SERVES 2, OR 4 AS PART OF A water, finely chop and set aside.
milk and milk products in the world. The SHARED MEAL Toast garam masala, cumin seeds and
country’s most popular and famous cheese coriander seeds in a small dry frypan over
is paneer, a fresh cheese with a spongy 2 large bunches (about 500g) English medium heat for 2 minutes, stirring often,
texture and delightfully clean taste. spinach, trimmed, washed well until fragrant. Remove from heat.
Paneer is easy to make. First, cow or 1 tsp garam masala Place garlic, ginger and 1 tsp water in
buffalo milk is heated, then acidified with 1/ 2 tsp each cumin seeds and coriander a mortar and pestle, and grind to smooth
lemon or vinegar. The curds are then seeds paste. Add the toasted spices and grind
drained in muslin cloth, pressed and 3 garlic cloves, crushed until smooth.

PHOTOGRAPHY NIGEL LOUGH STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS


cooled in water for several hours. If you 5cm piece (25g) ginger, peeled, Place the ghee in a deep frypan over
have time, we suggest making your own, finely chopped low heat. Add eschalot and cook for
however your local Indian grocer will 2 tbs ghee 5-6 minutes until golden. Increase heat
stock paneer, as do most supermarkets 2 Asian (red) eschalots, finely chopped to medium, add spice paste and cook for
(often in the fridge next to the haloumi). (substitute 1 small red onion) 1-2 minutes until fragrant. Add tomato
Paneer can be found in both sweet and 2 ripe tomatoes, finely chopped and bring to a simmer, then add spinach
savoury dishes in Indian, Pakistani and 1/ 2 cup (125ml) coconut cream and cook until any liquid has evaporated.
Nepalese cuisine, and beyond. The root 200g paneer, cut into 2cm pieces Stir in the coconut cream and cook for
of the word ‘paneer’ is found in the Finely sliced Thai green chillies, 2-3 minutes until warmed through.
Persian word for cheese, peynir. coriander leaves and lemon wedges, Season to taste, then add paneer and
There are a lot of different ways to make to serve cook, gently folding through, until just
saag paneer (cheese in a spinach sauce). warmed through.
This is one of the simplest, healthiest, yet Blanch spinach leaves in a large saucepan Spoon into serving bowls and top with
tastiest versions, made without cream, of boiling water for 30 seconds, or until sliced chilli and coriander leaves. Serve
and will leave you glowing. just tender. Drain and place in iced water with lemon wedges.

42 delicious.com.au
YOTAM OTTOLENGHI.

NUTS
FOR CAKE
Whether you keep it simple or adorn it with decadent extras,
this walnut cake from Yotam Ottolenghi is as perfect for
afternoon tea as it is for a celebratory table.

WALNUT CAKE until stiff peaks form. Using a spatula, fold


SERVES 8 egg whites into the walnut mixture a third
at a time; the mixture will be thick and
Oil or butter, to grease the pan quite difficult to bring together at first but
4 large eggs, yolks and whites will gradually loosen, so the final addition
separated of whites lightens the batter considerably.
200g dark muscovado sugar (substitute Pour batter into prepared pan and bake
dark brown sugar) for 40 minutes, until evenly puffed. This is
350g walnut halves, whizzed in a food a moist cake, so a skewer inserted inside
processor to the consistency of fine should not come out completely clean.
breadcrumbs Let cake cool for 5 minutes, then release
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon it from the pan. (You may need to run a
45ml amaretto small knife around the edge.) Carefully flip
over cake, remove pan and paper from
CARAMELISED WALNUTS the bottom, and flip again to transfer to a
80g caster sugar large plate. Brush surface with amaretto
60g walnut halves and leave to cool completely.
While cake is cooling, make the

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS COURT PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY JONATHAN LOVEKIN


TO SERVE caramelised walnuts. Sprinkle sugar evenly
150ml double cream or sour cream over the base of a medium saucepan and
1/ 2 tsp caster sugar place over medium heat. Cook gently for
about 6 minutes, swirling pan but resisting
Preheat oven to 190°C. Grease a 20cm the urge to stir, until you get a medium
springform pan with oil or butter. Line the brown syrup, the consistency of maple
bottom and side of the pan with baking syrup. Add walnuts and quickly stir into
paper and set aside. the syrup until coated. Pour nuts onto a
Place egg yolks and muscovado sugar parchment-lined baking tray, spread in
in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a single layer, and sprinkle with a pinch
the whisk attachment (or in a large bowl, of salt flakes. Once cool and hardened,
if using a hand-held electric mixer). Whisk roughly chop into 1cm and 2cm pieces.
on high for about 2 minutes, or until pale To serve, add cream and sugar to the
STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

and fluffy, scraping down sides of the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk
bowl as necessary. Transfer mixture to a attachment (or use a large bowl and a
large bowl. Add walnut, lemon zest and hand-held whisk). Whisk on high speed
1/4 tsp salt flakes and mix well to combine. for 1 minute, or until firm and fluffy. Once
Clean and dry the stand mixer bowl and the cake has cooled, spread cream over
whisk attachment, then add egg whites to surface and scatter with caramelised
the bowl. Whisk on high for 2 minutes, or walnuts to serve.

44 delicious.com.au
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AND DAIRY-FREE,
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delicious.com.au 47
MEAT MARKET.

Colin Fassnidge and Anthony Puharich are


back for the new year, serving up sweet, sticky
wings that are sure to fly off the plate.

THE CHEF AND


THE BUTCHER
A: This is the healthy issue? little gnarly wing tip.
C: Healthy-ish! It’s a nice way to eat
A: Who doesn’t like chicken wings! We’ve the rest of the chicken
done Colin’s fried chicken already, so what – the cheaper cuts.
are we doing now? Asian? C: It’s cheap but
C: As we’ve said before, it’s Fass-Asian. effective, like me.
After Christmas everyone has had first They’ll get nice and
cuts and indulged, so we’re using a sticky, just make sure
secondary cut here. Let’s start the year you keep basting
right with chicken wings. I poached the them and rest them
chicken wings in the stock first – nothing for a short time when
better than a poached chicken wing. they come out of
A: And why do you do that? the oven.
C: Because I flavour the stock with the A: Was the lime salt
ingredients we’re going to roast them in. here a reject from your Red Rock For the lime and chilli salt, combine all
How luscious is a poached wing. Deli chips? ingredients in a small bowl and set aside.
A: I don’t know – I’ve never had a C: Ha! No, that was from the top of my Place soy sauce, ginger, garlic, 1 cup
poached wing. cocktail glass, you know when you dip for (350g) honey and star anise in a large
C: It’s a great way to get the gelatine out a salt rim? Lime zest and a bit of juice in stock pot with a lid. Add 8 cups (2L) water
of the wing, because the wings are quite the salt, a bit of chilli. And you’re in! and stir to combine. Place over high heat
gelatinous, and all that leaches into the A: Maybe on the other side of this recipe and bring to the boil. Add the chicken
stock. And then when you reduce the we could get Red Rock Deli to put an ad? wings, then turn off the heat and stand,
stock, you just keep basting the wings so C: Honey soy chicken wing chips with covered, for 20 minutes or until the

INTERVIEW SAMANTHA JONES PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY


the flavour gets better. lime salt… Maybe that’s one for next chicken has cooked through. Carefully
A: Because most people would just roast year’s chips. remove wings from the stock and set
them, right? Does it burn them doing it aside. Strain stock, reserving 2 cups

FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS


that way? SOY & HONEY CHICKEN WINGS (500ml), discarding the rest.
C: Well if you don’t look in the oven for an WITH LIME CHILLI SALT Place reserved stock and remaining
hour, of course you’re going to burn them. SERVES 4-6 1 cup (350g) honey in a small saucepan
It’s like a baby by the pool, mate, you’ve over medium heat. Bring to a simmer and
got to look after it. 1 cup (250ml) soy sauce cook for around 30 minutes, until the
A: I think we’re back! 5cm piece (25g) ginger, roughly mixture has reduced to a thick syrup.
C: And I’m only drinking water! chopped Meanwhile, preheat oven to 180°C.
A: So it’s like you don’t abandon your 3 garlic cloves, crushed Line 2 large baking trays with baking
baby by the pool; don’t abandon your 2 cups (700g) runny honey paper. Divide wings between prepared
chicken wings in the oven! 2 star anise trays and brush with honey syrup.
C: Exactly. I do a heap of wings, more 2kg chicken wings Roast for 30 minutes, brushing with
than you need. If you poach them, you extra honey syrup every 10 minutes, until
can roast some and then save the rest for LIME & CHILLI SALT wings are caramelised.
the next day. Finely grated zest of 1 lime Remove from oven and rest for 10
A: Chicken wings are tasty. You have the 1 tsp chilli flakes minutes, before seasoning with lime and
little drumette, the mid wing, and then the 2 tbs salt flakes chilli salt, to serve.

48 delicious.com.au
I’M LOVING.

I LOVE... SUNFLOWER SEEDS Whether used as a butter or for texture,


sunflower looks set to burst out from the shadow of pepita this
year. Try my sunflower seed risotto to see why, at delicious.com.au

SEEING IT LAB MEAT AND FAKE MEAT Long promised but still stumbling
to make a major impact here, 2022 is the year! Expect to see

COMING everything from honey and dairy to even coffee grown this way.
YUZU Once only available as a bottled product, this citrus, so
loved in Japan and Korea, is increasingly found fresh. We are
Matt Preston peers into his culinary crystal ball to so sure it’s going to be a hit, it even features in the cheesecake
predict the trends of 2022 – you saw it here first. on this month’s cover as well as in our recipe below.
JALAPENO All hail the queen of chillies with its distinctly fruity
IT’S THE TIME OF YEAR when we draw a long bow and try and fleshiness. Expect it to start eclipsing the more pedestrian long
predict what ingredients will trend for the next 11 months while green chilli in home recipes and join other things ending in “o”
labouring in the vain belief that you won’t remember we got it (avocado, potato, tamarillo maybe) as favourites.
all wrong last year – that we should have predicted the boom in CRUNCHY RICE Whether turmeric-golden and broken in a
microwave quesadilla makers, chokos and neenish tarts in 2021. Laotian salad or last night’s leftover basmati – compressed and
Taking the plunge, here are my jolly good ideas for 2022. then fried – expect crunchy rice to be a cheap way to add
NACHO EVERYTHING Expect the social media desire to load texture and toastiness to everything. It’s all the joy of tadhig at
everything with melted cheese to explode in the everyday with the bottom of Persian chelo rice, or the socarrat of a properly
nacho tater tots, nacho roast potatoes and nacho fries. cooked paella. See how it goes in this Korean-inspired snack.
TARAMA SAUCE We saw taramasalata dip everywhere pre-Covid,
but it’s back in sauces for anything from pan-fried fish and scallops,
to crunchy roasties or oven-warmed salt and vinegar chips. KOREAN LAVA WRAPS WITH CRISPY RICE CAKES,
ROSELLA The crimson glow this flower adds to jams and drinks AVOCADO AND JALAPENO
is only half the attraction. Known as hibiscus in the Caribbean and MAKES 18
gongura in India, its floral lemony flavour will assure its success. This dish works best when the rice is chilled and set overnight,
Here’s hoping we see the leaves make an appearance, too – a so begin this recipe a day ahead.
gongura curry is one of the best reasons to visit Hyderabad.
AJVAR This red capsicum dip, loaded with eggplant and garlic, 4 cups (600g) cooked sushi rice
is set to boom. Sitting between romesco and caponata, the Balkan 1 tbs rice wine vinegar
beauty goes with snags, grilled meat, potato salad or warm bread. 1 tbs mirin
PEPPERBERRY Another ingredient that is increasingly popping Vegetable oil, for shallow frying
up in our chef’s recipes, expect this eye-opening Indigenous joy Kewpie mayonnaise, to drizzle
to achieve far broader acceptance, and even love, this year. 2 x 5g packets roasted seaweed snack
INDIAN INGREDIENTS Also going mainstream this year will 1 Lebanese cucumber, thinly sliced
be a whole host of ingredients more regularly seen in Indian 2 ripe avocados, sliced
cuisine, such as ghee for ‘buttering’ filo and frying, that fresh 1-2 jalapenos, thinly sliced
cheese paneer and nigella seeds used increasingly not just in Black sesame seeds, yuzu juice and coriander leaves, to serve
bread but (wonderfully) with chicken.
NEW VINEGARS Vinegar is the new citrus, but forget balsamics Line base and sides of a 20cm square tin with plastic wrap. Mix
and aged sherry vinegars: now it’s all about kombucha, coconut cooked rice in a bowl with vinegar and mirin. Press rice into the
and pandan vinegars, as well as expensive Japanese rice wine prepared tin in an even layer. Fold over the plastic wrap and chill
vinegars and vinegars flavoured with Indigenous ingredients. overnight to firm. Once firm, invert rice onto a chopping board.
ALL HAIL THE POTATO Already used in a compostable plastic Cut into 18 rectangles approximately 6.5cm x 3cm.
wrap alternative, thanks to Australian innovators Great Wrap, Heat 2cm oil in a large non stick frying pan over high heat.
next up we can expect potatoes to star in a new milk alternative, Add half the rice cakes, being careful as they might spit. Cook
set to challenge booming milks like oat and barley. for 3-4 minutes, turning halfway, until golden on each side. Drain
TOUM Forget aioli, this egg-free cloud of garlicky goodness is on paper towel. Repeat with remaining rice cakes.
set to grace our summer barbecues. It’s good with roast lamb, too! Drizzle Kewpie mayonnaise on a sheet of seaweed. Top with a
URBAN PRODUCE Greening our cities with vegie plots and roof rice cake, and fold seaweed up around the sides of the rice.
gardens is something that cities like Sydney and Brooklyn are Season with salt flakes. Top with cucumber, avocado and
already dabbling in but – along with the subject of soil health – jalapeno. Sprinkle with sesame, drizzle with yuzu and top with
expect the debate to intensify and lead to more action. coriander. Repeat with remaining rice cakes. Serve immediately.

50 delicious.com.au
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SAVOUR
PHOTOGRAPHY ELISE HASSEY

A sneak preview of
Sydney’s hottest new
venue, Shell House
Dining Room

delicious.com.au 53
Expectations were high for the reveal of Shell House, and Sydney wasn’t disappointed.
On the opening night of the Sky Bar, hospitality heavyweight Brett Robinson and his
team welcomed the delicious. family for an intimate preview of Shell House Dining Room.
RECIPES JOEL BICKFORD PHOTOGRAPHY ELISE HASSEY
ENTERTAINING.

delicious.com.au 55
“THIS EVENING SAW THE
SKY BAR ROOFTOP OPEN
TO REVELLERS FOR THE
VERY FIRST TIME.”

THERE WAS MAGIC IN THE AIR the night Brett Robinson and Anna Hewett threw an
intimate dinner party for some very special guests at Shell House. On the ground floor,
SET THE SCENE
Menzies had been enjoying a roaring trade for some weeks, but this evening saw the MENU
Sky Bar rooftop open to revellers for the very first time, and this dinner party a sneak “We always believe that it’s all about being
preview of the extremely elegant Shell House Dining Room. social around a table; the social interaction
The unveiling of Shell House, opposite Wynyard Station in the Sydney CBD, is the and the conversation and the joy of sitting
culmination of years of planning by Robinson and Hewett. The delicious. dinner was around sharing meals are the things that
a fitting way to mark the final piece of the puzzle slotting into place, says Robinson. drive us the most,” says Robinson. For the
“It was just such an amazing event. A lot of the guests at that dinner we know well event, they set out to strike a balance:
– we love Kerrie and we love the delicious. team,“ he says. “It was a really special “to make it easy for people to dine and
moment for Anna and I because we’ve been working on the venue for three years... casual enough for them to relax, but grand
We thought, well there’s just no better occasion to open a building like Shell House, enough to celebrate all the great dishes
with the cream of crop of the dining industry and food industry in the building.” that we’ve spent months working on.”
Beginning with Champagne on the terrace underneath the building’s imposing clock
face, guests were then taken through a mirrored sliding door to find themselves PLAYLIST
transported into the beautiful Clock Tower Bar set underneath the inner workings “I owned a music festival so I was very
of that famous clock itself. With wood panelling from floor to ceiling, plush furniture lucky in that I toured a lot of big DJs and
and a large marble bar, it is a truly breathtaking space. bands over the years. So I’ve got a huge
Just outside this room is the giant marble chef’s pass with Joel Bickford at the helm. selection of playlists from them... I’ve got
The timing of Shell House was serendipitous for the ex-Aria chef, who was ready for a one which is a Snoop Dogg playlist, from
change. “He just felt like he was looking for a new challenge,” Robinson says. In Shell when he came out. It’s a great funk, soul,
House, Bickford, Robinson and Hewett embrace a Mediterranean style of hospitality, hip hop playlist that’s super fun, super
where the distinction between inside and outside and set mealtimes blurs. An all-day light-hearted and a bit of a go-to for me.”
menu favours everything from a quick after-work bite and cocktail to a grand affair.
“We’ve just tried to design it so that there’s something for everyone,” Robinson says. DRINKS
The delicous. event let the team show off all that they’d been working towards. “We “We love starting the journey with great
definitely wanted to take the very best of the dishes off the menu and put something Champagne, I think that’s a must,” says
together that was really cohesive and that everyone could take notice of.” Robinson. Chablis and Burgundy always
feature, too. “And I’m kind of liking these
darker-based cocktails to finish my night at
@shellhousesydney
the moment.” The Midnight Oil cocktail
at Shell House is a current favourite.

56 delicious.com.au
ENTERTAINING.

Business and life


partners Brett
Robinson and Anna
Hewett BELOW:
Culinary director
Joel Bickford

The Shell House menu was


workshopped during
lockdown ABOVE: The
65.5m-tall heritage facade
of Shell House
ENTERTAINING.

CLOCKWISE: The
dining room’s
debut; crab and
caviar; drinks with
a view; plates by
chefs Joel Bickford
and Aaron Ward
“IT WAS THE FIRST
NIGHT THAT WE EVER
HAD ANYONE DINING
AT SHELL HOUSE.
IT WAS QUITE A
MILESTONE FOR US.”

delicious.com.au 59
“WE WANT TO BECOME
THE CENTRE OF
GRAVITY FOR THE CBD.
WE WANT PEOPLE TO
MAKE THE SPACE AN
ESSENTIAL PART OF
THEIR LIVES IN SYDNEY.”
ENTERTAINING.

“IT’S A BEAUTIFUL
DINING ROOM THAT
WE THINK IS GOING TO
MAKE A REAL MARK
ON THE SYDNEY
DINING LANDSCAPE.”
CRAB AND CAVIAR turning with tongs, for 2-3 minutes until
SERVES 4 crispy. Add the caperberries and lemon
“All the things that inspired us about a segments. Remove from the heat and
more Mediterranean style of dining and keep warm.
that sort of relaxed indoor-outdoor Heat a charcoal or wood fire over
summer feel, mixed with Joel’s great high heat. Using a fish basket or wire
commitment to local produce and rack, cook flounder skin side down for
provenance, has sort of made magic... The 6-8 minutes until cooked through.
menu’s a real adventure.” – Brett Robinson Alternatively, cook in a chargrill pan
over high heat for 8-10 minutes,
400g cooked spanner crab meat remembering that the fish will keep
180g mascarpone cooking after removed.
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon Plate the fish on a serving platter,
1 bunch chives, finely chopped pour over the nettle and caper butter,
80g black caviar and serve with lemon cheeks.
1 tbs extra virgin olive oil
4 slices soft white bread A DELICIOUS. X SHELL HOUSE
SPECIAL – THE MIKE-TINI
In a large bowl place crab, mascarpone, SERVES 2
lemon zest, half the chives and 1 tsp salt “The Mike-tini is an homage to my
flakes. Mix until combined. favourite cocktail, a wet martini, which I
Place an 8cm ring mould in the centre typically drink with half gin and half
of a serving plate and spoon 100g of crab vermouth, built over the rocks and served
mixture into the mould. Press to lightly in a tumbler with a lemon twist. I prefer
flatten out using the back of a spoon. using artisan, Australian spirits – balancing
Combine caviar with olive oil and
remaining chives, and spread evenly over
the crab meat, ensuring it is covered
Darling Distillery x Future Food System’s
collaborative gin (made from botanicals
grown at the Future Food System) with
IS BACK!
completely. Serve with soft white bread. Maidenii’s Classic Vermouth. It’s a Calling all hospitality
refreshing, complex twist on the martini businesses across
FLOUNDER WITH NETTLE, staple.” – Mike Bennie SYDNEY, MELBOURNE,
CAPER & LEMON BUTTER BRISBANE & ADELAIDE!
SERVES 4 45ml Australian gin American Express delicious.
45ml dry vermouth Month Out is back, bigger
200g unsalted butter, roughly chopped Pared lemon zest or brined green than ever in 2022. We invite
1 bunch nettles leaves, cleaned olives, thinly sliced to serve you all to join us at our virtual
150g caperberries in vinegar retailer briefing event, airing
2 lemons, cut into segments, quartered, Combine gin and vermouth in a cocktail on Monday Feb 7 at
plus extra lemon cheeks to serve shaker. Place a large ice cube in the 9:30am (AEDT).
2 x 450g whole flounder, scaled and centre of two tumblers and pour the
gutted Mike-tini over the top. Add a lemon twist
or olive slices, to serve.
Place butter in a medium saucepan
over medium heat, and cook for
5-6 minutes until butter is foaming and
nutty brown. Add nettles and cook,

delicious.com.au 63
EXCLUSIVE NEW
VIDEO CONTENT
Scan the code to
watch this summery
tart come together.
delicious.com.au/february
WINE MATCH: LANGE ESTATE
TSR SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021
The 2021 release is juicy and pure, with
ripe lime, passionfruit and gooseberry
flavours. This sauvignon blanc pairs
deliciously with seafood.

Pipis in spicy
lemongrass tomato
broth OPPOSITE:
Tomato & manchego
tarte tatin (recipes p 69)
“There’s nothing
better than late-
summer tomatoes.
Buy up big (bonus
points if you’ve
grown them
yourself!) and enjoy
them at their prime.”
11/
1/
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1/

3/

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EXCLUSIVE NEW
VIDEO CONTENT
Want to see how
we did it? Scan the
code to watch now!
delicious.com.au/february

delicious.com.au 73
1/

11/

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1/

1/

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WINE MATCH: ROSENTHAL
MARKER CHARDONNAY 2020
Rich in flavour, this wine has a complex
palate with stone fruits, cashews and
citrus notes. It will easily stack up to
dishes with robust flavours.
1/

1/
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BALANCING ACT.

WINE MATCH: LEOGATE


BROKENBACK VERDELHO 2021
Perfect for summer, with tropical fruit
flavours, refreshing lime citrus acidity and a
touch of spice, this wine is great with finger
food and salads.
EXCLUSIVE NEW
VIDEO CONTENT
Scan the code to
see how we pulled
this salad together.
delicious.com.au/february
“FOR ME, SUMMERTIME
IS ALL ABOUT EATING
SEASONAL PRODUCE
IN LIGHT, VIBRANT
DISHES, AND THESE
SALADS FIT THE BILL
PERFECTLY!”

1/

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FASTER FOOD.

Blistered tomato ‘koshari’


with haloumi OPPOSITE:
Lemon & zaatar chicken with
‘falafel’ salad (recipes p 91)
1/

3/

1/

1/

3/

1/

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FASTER FOOD.

“THIS HARISSA
BUTTER IS SO EASY
TO MAKE AND
DELICIOUS WITH
ALL SORTS, FROM
GRILLED MEATS TO
ROASTED VEG.”
WINE MATCH: JILYARA HONEYCOMB
CORNER CABERNET 2019
Elegant and lively, with classic cabernet flavours
of plum, cassis and dried mint, this wine pairs
perfectly with any red meat summer dish.
1/

1/ 1/

1/
1/

1/

1/

11/

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1/
Spiced beef
& feta filo pie
EXCLUSIVE NEW
VIDEO CONTENT
Scan the code to
watch how these
pies are perfected.
delicious.com.au/february
Mabu Mabu From her Melbourne deli, cafe and restaurant,
Nornie Bero has become a champion of Indigenous
ingredients from across Australia. In her new book,
the Torres Strait Islander chef and business owner
offers up a menu 60,000 years in the making.
PHOTOGRAPHY ARMELLE HABIB

Kangaroo tartare
(recipe p 102)

WINE MATCH: BETHANY ROSÉ


FIRST VILLAGE 2021
This beautifully pale salmon-pink wine is
full-flavoured and textural with spicy red
fruits – a versatile food pairing option.
Wattleseed scones
(recipe p 102)
EXCLUSIVE NEW
VIDEO CONTENT
Scan the code now
to watch how we
made these scones!
delicious.com.au/february
The Mabu Mabu
cafe in Melbourne
suburb Yarraville
LEFT: Nornie Bero

1/
NORNIE BERO.

Semur chicken
“I taught myself how to make this dish after eating
something similar at a deli in London. It riffs on the idea
of poaching a variety of mushrooms and then cooking
them in herbs and spices. You really honour all the
flavours of the mushroom and elevate them with the
second cooking process. It’s a dish that keeps on giving.”
Wattleseed banana bread

1/

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12 /

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Saltbush pepperberry crocodile
1/

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“THERE ARE A FEW ELEMENTS IN
THIS DISH, BUT THEY ALL COME
TOGETHER QUITE QUICKLY. PLUS
THE DIFFERENT SPICES BUILD UP
LAYERS OF FLAVOUR.”
@anjum_anand

WINE MATCH: CLOUD CUCKOO LAND


NERO D’AVOLA MONTEPULCIANO 2021
Lively with red and black fruits and a touch of
spice, this fruit-driven wine can be enjoyed slightly
chilled and is suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
“SPICY, MEATY
CHICKPEAS ARE
DEEPLY SATISFYING,
AND A HERBY MAYO
ADDS VIVACITY,
FRESHNESS AND
TANGINESS TO THE
EARTHY BURGER.”
1/

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1/ 11/
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EXCLUSIVE NEW
VIDEO CONTENT
Want to see how
we did it? Scan the
code to watch now!
delicious.com.au/february

Mango, tapioca pearl


& coconut parfaits
Coconut milk salmon
with rainbow
radishes (sinugno)
(recipe p 118)

“THE MARRIAGE OF COCONUT AND FISH IS AN


AMBROSIAL UNION. IN BICOL PROVINCE, CHARMINGLY
DUBBED COCONUT COUNTRY, THERE’S GINATAAN NA
ISDA (WHOLE FISH), KINUNOT NA ISDA (FLAKED FISH)
AND SINANGLAY (TILAPIA WRAPPED IN MUSTARD
LEAVES)… INFUSED WITH FRAGRANT AROMATS.”
1/
EXTRACT.

Cabbage & green


bean slaw with
chilli-peanut dressing
(lumpiang hubad)
“A FEW REGIONS IN THE PHILIPPINES ARE KNOWN FOR THEIR
Braised pork belly LOVE OF CHILLI, INCLUDING BICOL, WHERE BICOLANOS ADD
with coconut,
pineapple & chilli HANDFULS OF FIERY SILI (CHILLIES) TO ALMOST EVERY MEAL.
(Bicol express) SYNONYMOUS WITH THE REGION IS BICOL EXPRESS.”

One-pan mung bean &


tomato rice with
crispy onions (inspired
by munggo guisado)
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Watermelon ice with
mango, coconut jelly
& ube jam (halo halo)
YOghurt
DESSERT HACK
Want to whip up an impressive yet
effortless dessert? We’ve made it simple
with the delicious. upside-down golden
syrup banana cake baking mix. Find the
full range in Woolworths nationally!
“THE TART FLAVOUR
OF GREEK YOGHURT
IN THESE SIMPLE
PANNA COTTAS IS
PERFECTLY BALANCED
BY THE SWEETNESS OF
THE TENDER, LIGHTLY
CARAMELISED
NECTARINES”
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“AS IF THESE EASY
BAKED DOUGHNUTS
WEREN’T ALREADY
LUSCIOUS ENOUGH,
WE’VE TOPPED THEM
WITH A GORGEOUS
YOGHURT GLAZE”

EXCLUSIVE NEW
VIDEO CONTENT
Watch how we
made these tasty
doughnuts now.
delicious.com.au/february
1/

1/

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PHOTOGRAPHY SERGIO VILLALBA

Take tapas at
Taberna la Sorpresa
in Cádiz (p 132)

A TAPAS CRAWL THROUGH CÁDIZ IN SOUTHERN SPAIN 132 >> THE WORLD’S BEST PLANT-BASED LUXURY
EXPERIENCES FOR ROAMING FOODIES 144 >> A GASTRONOMIC JOURNEY AROUND VICTORIA’S GIPPSLAND REGION 146

delicious.com.au 131
Borja González at La Casa del
Jerez BEHIND: Bodegas
Callejuela’s vineyards

132 delicious.com.au
CÁDIZ
P ROV I N C E
Perched at the southern tip of Spain, Cádiz takes aperitivo hour to
the next level. From fine local sherries to fresh-caught tuna and
moreish bar snacks, Paul Richardson tastes his way around one of
Europe’s most captivating gourmet regions.
PHOTOGRAPHY SERGIO VILLALBA & CHRISTIAN ROSILLO

@paulgrichardson
GLOBAL.

O
n a bright September morning, the La Viña
neighbourhood of Cádiz city is buzzing with life.
Old gents in berets play dominoes in neon-lit
cafes where flamenco music blares from the radio.
Housewives toting the weekly shop chew the fat
with neighbours while their kids run riot on the street. All along
Calle Palma the bars are setting out tables in the shade of palms
and orange trees. I pick one at random and duck inside for a
snifter of manzanilla sherry, bracingly fresh, along with a morsel of
fish that comes sizzling straight from the fryer.
Southern Europe doesn’t get much more southerly than Cádiz.
I don’t only mean in geographical terms – this province of
Andalucía hangs off the lower edge of Spain, seeming to reach out
to Africa before pulling back at the last minute – but in cultural and
culinary ones too. Cádiz turns the relaxed, informal Spanish
lifestyle into a fine art. The region’s food culture turns on a handful
of stellar ingredients, a world-class wine, and a custom that ought
to be protected under the UNESCO World Heritage scheme (and
would be, if Spain got its way): the lazy, grazy tapas crawl.
The province has a diversity of landscapes, ranging from the
peaks of Grazalema, where generous rainfall keeps the landscape
strikingly green; to the long necklace of wild beaches studded with
coastal towns, from pretty Sanlúcar de Barrameda (home of
manzanilla sherry) to salt-of-the-earth Barbate, Zahara de los
Atunes and surf-mad Tarifa in the far south.
Where to kick off your food journey? Perhaps in Cádiz itself, the
historic capital – salty, vibrant and big-hearted, jutting out like a
fortress into the Atlantic Ocean.
The city’s old Mercado Central, housed in a magnificent
18th-century building right in the centre of town, is where to go for
a crash-course in gaditano produce. Here you’ll find all the big
local guns: the superlative fish and shellfish landed in nearby ports;
the beef from the Retinta breed, its dense dark meat marbled with
fat; and vegetables from the rich arable land behind the coast. Not
forgetting peerless regional delicacies such as mojama (air-dried
tuna, often served in slices with toasted almonds), payoyo goat’s
cheese from the Grazalema hills, or pine nuts from the forests
behind Barbate.
Then it’s out into the streets, where the midday aperitif round is
just beginning. The bars of Cádiz are an ecosystem in which
neighbourhood drop-ins, harbourside boozers, historic taverns
and chic gastrobars happily coexist. You’ll quickly begin to
recognise the set-in-stone local tapas repertoire, which includes
such popular items as tortillitas de camarones (shrimp fritters
splotched on a hot griddle), papas aliñás (potatoes in an olive oil
and parsley vinaigrette) and cazón en adobo (tender chunks of
dogfish steeped in a vinegar and cumin marinade and fried in light
batter). At Casa Manteca, a creaky old tavern in La Viña with
beamed ceilings and strip lighting, the house speciality is
chicharrones: cured pork belly presented in wafer-thin slices on
old-fashioned waxed paper. At Freiduría Las Flores, on a little
square near the market, it’s pescaíto frito, the region’s signature
dish of mixed fish dredged in wheat and chickpea flour, then fried

134 delicious.com.au
136 delicious.com.au
The rugged hills
of Grazalema
delicious.com.au 139
INSIDER.

TRAVEL NEWS
resort Conrad Chia Laguna Sardinia (above). Both
properties are located in the Italian island’s Chia
region, renowned for its golden sandy beaches and
sparkling coastal lagoons. hilton.com
Hot destinations, cool stays, travel essentials
& everything in transit.
BOOK SHELF
Michelle Law’s Asian Girls
are Going Places (Hardie
Grant, $27.99) is a travel
book with a difference,
addressing the joys, fears
and obligations unique to
Asian women navigating the
world. hardiegrant.com.au

LUST LIST
Australia’s first Oakwood Premier is now open in
Melbourne’s Southbank. The purpose-built $150
million, 40-storey property overlooks the Yarra River,
Albert Park and Port Phillip Bay. It boasts 392
luxurious short- and long-stay apartments and a sky
bar 130 metres above the ground with 360-degree
views. oakwood.com/premier-melbourne
Created for modern
explorers, Viking
Cologne by Creed
(100ml, $459) is
HOT SHOT a universal scent
combining rich
Innovative Sydney-based woody base notes
coffee company Single O has with zesty bergamot
created the first fully
compostable drip coffee bag.
FLYING HIGH
Take your love of food to new heights with the
and citrus.
creedperfume.com.au

Perfect for travel, the game- world’s first zipline fine dining experience at Edited by Rosemary Slade
changing Parachutes are filled Soneva Fushi in the Maldives. Flying Sauces begins
with pre-ground brew-ready with a 200-metre zipline route that delivers diners @somestylishchick
to an elevated treetop table near Dolphin Beach,
coffee and nitro-flushed to before serving up a six-course seasonal menu and
ensure maximum flavour for DELICIOUS.COM.AU/TRAVEL Go online for more
wine pairing. soneva.com
travel news from Australia and around the world.
three months. singleo.com.au

140 delicious.com.au
GREECE

Athens
(Piraeus)
ISRAEL
Mediterranean
Sea Haifa VARIET Y OF CEYLON TEAS, SRI L ANK A
Cairo (Port Said) JORDAN
Suez Canal Aqaba
Luxor (Safaga) Sharm el-Sheikh
INDIA
EGYPT Muscat
OMAN Cruise with Viking and explore the world in Scandinavian
THAILAND
Red Sea Mumbai
Salālah Arabian Sea Bangkok comfort on modern spacious ships with only 930 guests.
Goa (Mormugao) (Laem Chabang)
N Relax knowing you are in safe hands with Viking’s industry
Koh Samui
Colombo Singapore leading health and safety protocols; giving you peace of
Cruise Indian SINGAPORE
MALAYSIA
Overnight in Port Ocean
George Town
mind in this new age of cruising, whether it be your first
Kuala Lumpur (Port Klang)
time or the next.

NEW! VOYAGE OF MARCO POLO Explore coastal gems, ancient ruins, legendary cities and
ATHENS – BANGKOK or vice versa trace the routes of the earliest merchants from Greece to
36 DAYS | 16 GUIDED TOURS | 10 COUNTRIES Thailand. Simply unpack once and settle in, with privileged
SET SAIL OCT 2022; APR 2023 access to numerous sights and attractions, world class dining
From $16,995pp in Veranda stateroom choices, award winning service, and a unique on board
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*Conditions apply. Prices are per person, in Australian dollars, based on double occupancy, subject to availability, includes all advertised discounts and correct at time of printing. Guests are required to be fully vaccinated against
COVID-19 at time of travel. Voyage of Marco Polo Ocean Cruise based on 25 October 2022 departure. These offers are valid on new bookings made between 17 December 2021 – 4 March 2022 unless sold out prior. Risk-free guarantee
applies to 2022 departures only. For full terms and conditions visit viking.com.
TRAVEL CHECKLIST.

THE NEW

INTERNATIONAL
The ‘new normal’ for travel means new rules
and extra documents, writes Rosemary Slade,
but with preparation – and a little patience – it
needn’t be a bumpy ride. Here’s what to
TRAVEL
(Chinese) standards. And many US airlines prohibit masks with
valves and vents. Some carriers suggest frequent mask changes,
expect next time you travel internationally. so ensure you have a) the right masks and b) enough of them.

VACCINE PASSPORTS IN-FLIGHT SERVICES


First thing’s first: to travel overseas, you’ll need an international Differences between airlines, flight lengths and cabin classes are
COVID-19 vaccination certificate (ICVC or ‘vaccine passport’), even more pronounced now than pre-COVID. Many airlines still
which is accessible via your MyGov Medicare online account or offer in-flight services, some – such as Qantas and Jetstar – have
the Medicare Express Plus app. To be eligible, you’ll need to be streamlined them to minimise contact between passengers and
an Australian resident or visa holder with a valid passport and your crew, and others have halted food and drink service altogether.
jabs recorded on the Australian Immunisation Register. The ICVC Generally, beverages are more limited and served in sealed,
bears an individual QR code with the same encryption as an single-use vessels, rather than poured from larger ones, while
ePassport, and allows authorities to verify your vaccination status. food will come individually wrapped or in pre-packaged boxes.

TRAVEL INSURANCE CHANGEABLE CONDITIONS


Travel insurance has become increasingly important. Post- The global pandemic has made it abundantly clear that change is,
pandemic, several countries have made COVID-19 cover indeed, a constant, and it’s likely to remain that way for some time.
mandatory. Check the requirements for your destination and any Check and double-check travel advisories, requirements and
countries you’re transiting through. For example, if you’re visiting conditions – like quarantine, PCR testing, masks, insurance and so
the US (your destination), they may not require travel insurance, on – while planning, before you leave, while you’re away and
but Singapore (your transit country) might. before returning with smarttraveller.gov.au, homeaffairs.gov.au,
your intended destination and transit countries.
PRE-DEPARTURE TESTING Above all, try not to let ‘the new normal’ and all the extra
At the time of writing, Australia has no pre-departure testing demands that come with it suck the joy out of your trip!
requirements in place. However, many destinations require Read on about the new travel rules at delicious.com.au/travel
incoming travellers to provide a negative COVID-19 PCR test,
often completed 72 hours prior to arrival. Local embassies and
consulates can confirm requirements for the country (or countries) PRE-FLIGHT CHECKLIST
you’re visiting. For more advice, visit smartraveller.gov.au • Valid passport with six-months validity from departure date
• Visas required for entry to your destination
LONGER QUEUES • Digital and printed international COVID-19 vaccination
With all the additional biosecurity measures, queues are set to certificate (ICVC)
increase significantly, at least for a while. Along with mandatory • Digital and printed MyGov vaccination certificate (including
check-ins and sanitisation stations, there’s additional steps at the details of boosters, if required)
airport. Pack your patience, expect delays and ask your airline • Copies of travel insurance (with COVID-19-related coverage)
about how much additional time to allow. • Digital itinerary
• Face masks that meet the standards required by your airline
MANDATORY MASKS and/or destinations, with a sufficient supply for changes
Masks are mandatory in all Australian airports and in-flight. At the • Negative COVID-19 PCR test documentation and
time of writing, there are no restrictions around the type of masks confirmation of PCR test upon arrival, as required by
required, though bandanas and scarves aren’t permitted. each destination
However, airlines and countries can have specific requirements. • Travel passes and/or documentation, as required by each of
Some European airlines have banned cloth masks, in favour of your destinations
surgical masks that meet N95 (US), FFP2 or FFP3 (EU) and KN95 • Plenty of patience for those longer-than-normal queues

142 delicious.com.au
INSIDER.

4
1

Getting ready to hit the road once more? From carry-on


essentials to little luxuries on the go, these travel-friendly
buys will get you there and back again in true style.

1. Aman Pulse Point Trio, $68.33, shop.aman.com


2. Vida Glow Radiance Capsules, $90, vidaglow.com 7
3. Aidan The Brand The Signature “M” Case, $675,
aidanthebrand.com 4. Devil’s Thumb Distillery
Rainforest Gin, $75, shop.devilsthumbdistillery.com
5. Bang & Olufsen Beoplay EQ ANC wireless
earphones in Nordic Ice, RRP $685, bang-olufsen.com/
en/int 6. Bahru Florence Leather Crossbody Bag in
Caramel, $199, bahru.com.au 7. RIMOWA Aluminium
Sling Clutch in Black, $1540, rimowa.com.au 8. In The
Sac Waffle Robe in White, $239.95, inthesac.com.au
9. Louise Olsen x Alex and Trahanas Marella Hoop
Earrings, Brass, $315, alexandtrahanas.com 10. Oribe
8
Priming Lotion Leave-In Conditioning Detangler, 250ml
$54, and Oribe Shampoo for Moisture & Control,
250ml $66, amazon.com.au 11. Holme Beauty Base
Primer, 40ml $65, holmebeauty.com 12. Santé by Enjo
Mini Tote in French Rosé, $39, sante.enjo.com.au
13. Santé by Enjo Makeup Removal + More in French
Rosé, $155, sante.enjo.com.au 14. Sachajuan Intensive
Hair Oil, 50ml $75, amazon.com.au 15. Sachajuan
Ocean Mist, 150ml $42, amazon.com.au 16. Rado
HyperChrome Ash Barty Limited Edition watch,
$3,675, rado.com/en_au/

Better for the


planet, and for
your skin

delicious.com.au 143
GREEN GOURMANDS
LUXE PLANT-BASED TRAVELS

ITALY: Agrivilla i pini


vegan resort, tucked
into the Tuscan hills
of San Gimignano

JAPAN RWANDA the perfect way to see the best of

PHOTOS COURTESY OF: AGRIVILLA I PINI, ONE&ONLY GORILLA’S


Japan is like nowhere else on the Rwanda is an astonishing destination for history-rich Croatia. Balkan breezes

TOURISM AUTHORITY, ©SANPOU NISHIMURAYA RESTAURANT


planet. Marvel at the perfection and anyone with a heart for adventures on the embrace alfresco dining and the

NEST, MAISTRA HOSPITALITY GROUP, SIX SENSES, ARUBA


efficiency of every little thing, from the wild side. Travellers can safari out to the Mediterranean climate ensures produce is
intricate delights of Tokyo’s depachika Big Five here, but most venture to this bountiful. While plant-based eating isn’t
(legendary food halls tucked in department progressive African nation for the privilege yet mainstream, hospitality is important in
store basements) to the ancient shrines, of observing mountain gorillas in their this country, and chefs are happy to cater
temples and pavilions of Kyoto – Japan’s natural habitat. The World Heritage-listed to guests that eschew animal products.
cultural centre. Temple lodgings are almost Volcanoes National Park is home to about Green Earth Travel hosts a small group
always vegan friendly, and some of the best 600 of these near-relations of ours, and seven-night vegan cruise from Dubrovnik
plant-based meals are found here. Don’t Rwanda is more easily trekked than to Split and, on land, the Valamar and
miss Toufuya Ukai in Tokyo, set amidst a koi neighbouring Uganda. Vegan dining and Maistra hotel groups do a splendid job of
pond-filled garden (specify vegan); and in luxe accommodations are yours at catering to vegan travellers.
Kyoto, Yoshuji at the foot of Mount Kurama. One&Only Gorilla’s Nest, or World BHUTAN
Venture to the onsen town Kinosaki for the Vegan Travel offer bespoke 10-day trips. Situated along the fabled Silk Road in the
full course at Sanpou Nishimuraya. World CROATIA lap of the Himalayas, Bhutan is a country of
Vegan Travel is releasing an all-inclusive tour. With more than 1,000 islands, cruising is extraordinary biodiversity. Success is
POSTCARD.

RWANDA: Close contact


on the gorilla trek from
Gorilla’s Nest

CROATIA: The Maistra


group’s waterfront
Villas Mlini in Dubrovnik

your belly. Think oat banana pancakes at


One Happy Bowl and penne alla vodka at
Faro Blanco, being certain to leave room
for mushroom escargot at Papillon. You
may need to eat more than three meals a
day to fit in all the plant-friendly options
measured not by money but by happiness, here – including the best dessert on the
literally, according to the Gross National island: the locally made vanilla almond
Happiness Index. Buddhist tradition is milk ice cream from Fishes & More.
steeped in cultural mores and you’d be ITALY
hard-pressed to find a more immersive Is there any destination more associated
destination. Vegans travel easily here – with food than Italy? Wining and dining is
for a 14-day, all-inclusive tour that caters a joyful national pastime, and plant-based
for those with a plant-based lifestyle, travellers aren’t left out. Italy is surprisingly
Vegan Travel Asia has you sorted. Six vegan-friendly – trattorias and restaurants
Senses Bhutan will also treat you like the are increasingly offering entire menus
VIP (Vegan Important Person) that you are. without any animal products, thanks to
ARUBA rising demand. Try the elegant restaurant
Diners will be well and truly spoilt for Antonio Chiodi Latini in Turin, and Tuscan
choice in Aruba, considered the most vegan hotel Agrivilla i pini – both are
vegan-friendly destination in the worth planning a trip around. To make life
Caribbean. Rejuvenate on your tropical even easier, Vegan Epicure Travel and
holiday without a single worry about filling Veg Jaunts and Journeys tailor tours.

delicious.com.au 145
NEW GROOVE

146 delicious.com.au
POSTCARD.

Their Venus Blue, a blue-vein cheese made arrive. “In spring, it’s apples,” says co-owner
with raw milk cultures “to let the expression of Tanya Bertino, of the seasonal crop gifted by
our farm come through”, and semi-hard, raw locals. Homegrown produce stars at this retro
milk Moyarra Reserve are winning plaudits. Lindenow cafe, with its mismatched porcelain
plates and 1950s wallpaper. The deftly made
PROM COUNTRY ‘counter sweets’ are more grown up than
Toward Wilsons Promontory, the rugged, freckles and cobbers: think frangipane and
salt-kissed southern tip of Australia, are pear tart or chocolate mousse cake with
makers, farm gates and tiny towns. Gurneys candied cumquat. It’s not far to Lightfoot &
Cider, near Fish Creek, delivers paddles of Sons, a ubiquitous Gippsland wine label.
crisp wild-ferment ciders and sweeping views Perched above the Mitchell River valley, the
of farmland, orchards and sea from its hilltop awarded family-run winery is an idyllic spot for
cellar door. Try the limited-edition Scrumpy, small-batch single-block pinot noir, shiraz and
made from tart, locally foraged wild apples. chardonnay paired with local grazing plates.
Gurneys lies at the start of the 72km Great
Southern Rail Trail, a bucolic loop between SHIP TO SHORE
Leongatha and Port Welshpool humming with A raft of new venues is luring crowds to
lowing cows and screeching gang gangs. Gippsland Lakes. At Paynesville, newcomer
Grab a picnic hamper from Gibson’s Larder Sardine Cantina is earning fans with its
at Fish Creek and wander its sun-dappled charcuterie and cheese plates and long local
path to find grassy picnic spots by the creek. wine list. The wine bar and shop is the second
Nearby is Meeniyan, a hamlet becoming a outpost of ex-Vue de monde chef Mark Briggs
hub for South Gippsland fare. On Friday night and wife Victoria. At Sardine Dining, next
outdoors at Meeniyan Square, Trulli is door, Briggs champions Gippsland produce
pumping with southern Italian-style pastas and lesser-known fish plucked from the icy
and puffy-crust wood-fired pizzas, hand-made Great Southern Ocean. This is unpretentious
with semolina and spelt and toppings that fine dining, with the option of a four-course
speak of the seasons and land. Moo’s at tasting menu or a degustation of the chef’s
Meeniyan, a chic renovated weatherboard favourites. Don’t miss the signature sardines,
cottage with a deck, serves up breakfast hand-filleted and served with bright pink,
classics and a bistro lunch and dinner singing pickled Spanish onions and pine oil.
with local fare. Pandesal Bakery is the go-to Once a fisherman’s wharf, today Pier 70 is
for pastries and sourdough. Meeniyan Pantry a spruced-up weatherboard that dishes up
& Cellar boasts excellent Gippsland wines, lunch and dinner to sparkling lake views.
local meats and produce. Nearby is concept From here, take the free pedestrian ferry to
store Mika and Max, awash with bohemian Raymond Island to walk the 1.2km Koala Trail,
wares, linen dresses and rustic homewares. where dozens of koalas can be spied conked
The Dairy at Ross Farm, near Meeniyan, out in the gums. Check-in at Captain’s Cove,
oozes rustic-luxe appeal. The three-bedroom waterfront apartments with floor-to-ceiling
retreat, on an old dairy farm, wraps around a glass, expansive decks and a private jetty.
courtyard and fire pit overlooking green Lakes Entrance welcomed Sodafish in 2020.
pastures by day and inky star-studded skies The floating restaurant, built on the old
at night. Unwind in the circular concrete bath Raymond Island ferry, is run by chef Nick
with a glass of welcome bubbles or relax by Mahlook and his sister Sam and is all about
the pot belly fire. The well-equipped kitchen zero miles, sustainability and foraging. Step
is stocked with the makings of a farmhouse off the esplanade to views of bobbing fishing
breakfast, including eggs from the resident boats and pelicans and a menu that might
chooks. Ross Farm offers two other stays: the include wood-fired octopus with XO and
one-bedroom Cabin and two-bedroom Barn. sorrel, grilled asparagus with black garlic and
sea spinach or the catch-of-the-day, fried
FEAST EAST GIPPSLAND golden in a light-as-air sourdough batter. You
The Long Paddock is overflowing with can order the same fish and chips a deck
lemons, mandarins and tangerines when we below at their takeaway chippery.

delicious.com.au 149
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delicious.com.au 151
FEB
2022
INDEX 84

STARTERS,
SIDES & LIGHT
94
MEALS
Beer-battered zucchini flowers
with anchovies and mozzarella ......... p 18
Cabbage & green bean slaw with
chilli-peanut dressing (lumpiang “STICK TO YOUR
hubad) (V) ....................................... p 114
Crab and caviar .................................... p 63 RESOLUTIONS
Grilled zucchini with spiced chickpea salsa WITH UPDATED
and pumpkin seed dressing (V) ...... p 110
Haloumi & peach skewers with SALADS AND
yoghurt pita bread (V)....................... p 76 VEGIE-FOCUSED
Kangaroo tartare................................. p 102
Korean lava wraps with crispy rice cakes DISHES THAT
avocado and jalapeno (V) ................. p 50 ARE BIG ON
Poached spicy mushrooms (V)............ p 101
Saag paneer (V) .................................... p 42 FLAVOUR!”
Salmon skewers with a miso & – GEORGIE ESDAILE
marmalade glaze .............................. p 76
Saltbush pepperberry crocodile ......... p 102
Sardines with sweet & sour red onion,
mint and pine nuts............................ p 18 Harissa butter
mushrooms with sumac
Soy & honey chicken wings with lime
onion salad
chilli salt ............................................ p 48
Spicy tuna & green papaya salad ......... p 87
Tandoori cauliflower with cashew
yoghurt and lentil salad (V) ............. p 109

152 delicious.com.au
INDEX.

109

SWEET THINGS
Baked raspberry doughnuts with “YOGHURT IS
yoghurt glaze.................................. p 126
Coconut yoghurt & matcha green tea
SUCH A VERSATILE
popsicles......................................... p 126 INGREDIENT IN
Gluten-free mango yoghurt
cheesecake ..................................... p 129
BOTH SWEET AND
Lemon yoghurt cake with labneh and SAVOURY DISHES.”
lemon syrup .................................... p 126
Mango, tapioca pearl & coconut
– HELENA MOURSELLAS
parfaits ........................................... p 110
Strawberry crostata with Frangelico
Baked raspberry
mascarpone ...................................... p 20 doughnuts with
Upside-down golden syrup banana cake yoghurt glaze
with hokey pokey cream................. p 129
Vanilla & mango fro-yo with candied
macadamia ..................................... p 129
Walnut cake .......................................... p 44
Watermelon ice with mango, coconut
jelly & ube jam (halo halo) .............. p 118
Wattleseed banana bread .................. p 101
Wattleseed scones.............................. p 102
Yoghurt panna cotta with honeyed
nectarines ..................................... p 126

OFFICIAL TEST KITCHEN SUPPLIER:


Our meat is supplied by Vic’s Meat (vicsmeat.com.au). (V) denotes vegetarian recipe

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OM
d at Mux;
dens of
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); inside
Mexico
ntre;
argas

co

VIVA LA MEXICO!
Pablo Galindo Vargas is a proud Mexico City native. The co-owner
of Milpa Collective, which includes Sydney’s Calita, Carbòn, Taqiza
and Sonora, shares his love for his home town’s culture and cuisine.

MEXICO CITY OFFERS incredible Museo Frida Kahlo (also known as Casa
diversity – there’s a place for everyone Azul for its cobalt-blue exterior) is an
and every taste. institution, where Frida threw legendary
I was born and raised in Mexico City parties in the 1940s (which inspired our
and lived there until I was 25 years old. most recent Sydney venue Londres 126).
I miss the high energy of this bustling city There’s famous markets such as the
– all the cultural activities, street food Mercado Coyoacan, Mercado Roma
and endless nightlife (though I don’t miss and La Lagunilla antique market, and
the traffic!). Being raised in such a Mercado Jamaica for flowers, traditional
dynamic, culturally rich part of the world, medicine, herbs and brujeria (witchcraft).
you can’t help but develop a deep love For a true taste of Mexico City, you
of the place, its people, food and history. must try street food. There’s tacos, elotes,
I recommend a visit to Templo Mayor tlacoyos, gorditas, flautas, esquites, frutas,
and Zócalo: the cultural and political quesadillas, tamales, broiled sweet

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES, JOHN COLETTI & GIANFRANCO VIVI


centre of the country, bustling with potatoes and more. My favourites include
activity and events year-round. tortas (THE Mexican sandwich), chiles en
Also worth exploring are the Floating nogada (stuffed chillies) and pozole (meat
Gardens of Xochimilco, Teotihuacán stew). Check out the taquerias to try tacos
pyramids, the cultural meeting al pastor, tacos de canasta, tacos de tripa
place Plaza Garibaldi, Bosque (tripe) and tacos de cabeza (beef brain).
de Chapultepec park, and There are almost too many incredible
Polanco, at the ritzy end of restaurants to count, but stand-outs are
town. Colonia Roma (which El Moro Churerría, for the best churros
inspired the award-winning you’ve ever tasted; Pujol for Enrique
film Roma) is one of the Olvera’s high-end cuisine; La Casa de
trendiest neighbourhoods, Toño for simple, delicious Mexican food
and it’s here that we launched served all day; La Docena for some of the
our new venue, Mux, where we city’s best seafood; and bustling little
celebrate ancestral knowledge by Salón Corona, my favourite local cantina.
collaborating with indigenous cooks and And be sure to experience the nightlife
communities from across the country. – the choices are never ending.

154 delicious.com.au
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