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FEBRUARY 2014 | VOTED AUSTRALIAS BEST FOOD MAGAZINE

delicious.
ON
THE

SIDE WITH
T
U
O
IT
E
K
A
T
INNERS
FUSS FREE D
ESSERTS
AND COOL D

Barbecued pizzas:
prosciutto with tomato and
mozzarella; chilli prawn
with zucchini and pesto.

VALLI LITTLE Beach holiday menu


KATIE QUINN DAVIES Valentines Day
JILL DUPLEIX Luscious frozen yoghurt

editors letter.

This issue

Whether youre still enjoying a break or are back at work, this issue
is all about ways to keep that holiday feeling going right through
summer. Barbecues and picnics are high on the agenda, of course
try Vallis beach-inspired seafood menu (p 48) or chef-turnedbutcher Colin Holts grill favourites (p 90). You could also opt for
our clever cover idea chargrilled pizza bases on the barbecue, then
have everyone load them up with their favourite toppings. Add
some cool, fruity desserts, such as ice cream sandwiches or tropical
popsicles (Wicked, p 74), and youre all set. You dont have to wait
for a weekend event, though. Take even a simple Daily Special
(p 58) pasta or salad outdoors on a Tuesday night and feel the
workday stress melt away, as you keep that holiday mood going.
Also this month, we take a cooks tour of Lake Como, Italy, and
celebrate Lunar New Year with some of Sydney and Melbournes
top Asian chefs, who share their favourite dining spots.
Plus, youre invited to join us in Perth and Noosa as we
showcase each states best at special delicious. Produce Awards
dinners. Hope to see you there.

photography jeremy simons

Danielle Oppermann, Editor

delicious. 5

Luigi Bormiolis
Canaletto,
the dazzling glass.

STILL

AFTE R

WA S H E

20

00

10482Del

Our COver
barbecued pizzas
Serves 4
If youre entertaining, make these pizza bases
and let guests assemble their own toppings.
21/4 cups (360g) bread & pizza our
or 21/2 cups (375g) plain our
1/4 cup (50g) ne semolina
1 tbs dried instant yeast
1/2 tsp caster sugar
2 tbs olive oil, plus extra to brush
Prosciutto with tomato and mozzarella
Good-quality tomato pasta sauce,
torn buffalo mozzarella, vine-ripened
cherry tomatoes, thinly sliced prosciutto,
black olives and rocket leaves
Chilli prawn with zucchini and pesto
Chargrilled zucchini slices, chilli-marinated
prawns, basil pesto and basil leaves
Combine our, semolina, yeast, sugar, oil and
1 tsp salt in an electric mixer tted with a
dough hook. Add 1 cup (250ml) warm water,
then knead for 8-9 minutes until smooth.
(Alternatively knead on a oured surface for
10 minutes or until smooth.) Place in an oiled
bowl, cover and set aside in a warm place for
3 hours or until doubled in size.
Knock back dough, then separate into four
rounds. Place on an oiled baking tray, cover
with a tea towel and rest for 30 minutes.
Preheat barbecue or chargrill pan to high.
Roll out dough on a oured surface to a
5mm-thick oval. Brush both sides generously
with oil (to prevent it from sticking to the
grill). Chargrill for 2-3 minutes each side
until charred. Add toppings, then serve.

74

Cover stories
48

58

66
Recipe Valli Little Styling Vivien Walsh
Photography Alan Benson

Valli Littles beach


holiday menu
Sunset on the beach
is complete with a fresh
catch of seafood and Vallis
simple barbecue menu.
Fuss-free dinners
Our daily specials have
every night of the week
covered, from chicken
salad to pork tacos.
Katie Quinn Davies
Valentines Day menu
Set the scene with Katies
elegant 3-course menu.

74

Cool desserts
Gorgeous Sydney blog
The Food Dept. create
wicked tropical desserts,
including macadamia
biscuit ice cream
sandwiches and
homemade ice pops, so
you can keep your cool.
116 Jill Dupleixs luscious
frozen yoghurt
Jills shares four light
and easy gluten-free
desserts for warm weather,
including a yoghurt and
berry gelato terrine.

delicious. 7

contents.

Eat
33

39

82

90

Hotspots
Dishes from Wood Fire Grill
in Noosa, Rushcutters in
Sydney and Melbournes
Fatto Bar & Cantina.
Easy does it
Easy summer tarts make
the ideal picnic food.
Hot blogs
Lighten up your cooking
with our round-up of the
best vegetarian and
wholefood blogs.
Guest chef
Colin Holt of Hudson Meats
shares his tips and recipes
for the ultimate barbecue.

66

58
124
82

Escape
124 Global avours
Valli travels to Lake Como
for an Italian cooking class
with Sydney-based chefs
Alessandro Pavoni
and Giovanni Pilu.
136 Postcard
Peter Gilmore escapes to
Fijis luxe Laucala Island.
138 24 hours in Lyon
Take a tour of Frances
gastronomic capital, Lyon.
142 Locavore: Lunar New Year
Top Aussie-Asian chefs share
their must-eat spots in
Sydney and Melbourne.

Regulars
5
10
13
15

Editors letter
Menus
Inbox
Out & about
Join us for a special dinner
at Sydneys Ormeggio at The
Spit, plus photos from our
reader dinner at Rushcutters.

8 delicious.

18

Produce Awards 2014


Join us for two special
dinners in Queensland
and Western Australia.
23 Insider
The latest food trends,
products, books and
restaurant news.
28 What to drink when.
Andrea Frost embraces the
outdoors with summer wines.
42 S reasons to
Matt Preston has so many
reasons to get grilling.
44 Subscribe to delicious.
Receive a Pyrex gift set.
152 Recipe index
154 Secret address book
Chef Rene Redzepi from
Denmarks Noma shares
his favourite food spots.

99 Jamie Oliver exclusive section


100 Fun in the oven
Jamie shows woodred ovens can turn out more
than just pizza with his alfresco cooking ideas,
including a summer fruit crumble.
108 In the mix
Jamies light, fresh Asian-inspired salads are
just the thing for warm evenings at home.

The Test Kitchen uses meat


supplied by Hudson Meats;
hudsonmeats.com.au.

THE PUREST
EXPRESSION
of AUSTRALIAN SAUVIGNON BLANC
Every wine should tell a story, and this
Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc is no exception.
Its tale is one of perfect unity between region
and variety, enriched by the distinctive elements
of the vintage. Using gentle winemaking
techniques, the story thats told is honest a pure expression of Australian Sauvignon Blanc.
WILLIAM HARDY {5th Generation}

www.hardyswines.com

Enjoy Hardys responsibly.

Mix and match recipes from this issue to create three fresh summer feasts, from a bright and
healthy dinner, to a smoky barbecue lunch and an Asian spread heady with herbs and spice.

hot summer nights


Asparagus, grape
& haloumi salad
with vinaigrette

Peach & pork tacos

Yoghurt & berry


gelato terrine

18

62

121

33

95

57

110

54

76

barbecue lunch
King prawns
with chimichurri

Barbecued lamb racks

Chocolate smores

asian feast
Vietnamese chicken salad
(goi ga)

Barramundi in banana leaf


with coconut rice

Fruit skewers with


gingersnap crumbs and
coconut cream

10 delicious.

2014 The World of Shakespeare


8 nights in the UK
Celebrate this incredible milestone
of literary popularity with 3 special
anniversary performances by the
Royal Shakespeare Company in
Stratford-upon-Avon. Uncover
Shakespeares hidden secrets in
exclusive Odyssey lectures from
renowned academic, Professor
Stanley Wells, in London and
enjoy 3 more performances.
Extend your tour with the
option of the world famous
Chelsea Flower Show.
28 May 14

5 June 14

Reserve your seat


by calling 1300 888 225 or visit
odysseytraveller.com

SAVE $250 FOR


EARLYBIRD BOOKINGS
Book your 2014 The World
of Shakespeare tour before
31st March 2014 and pay
only $4,700 per person,
twin share*.
*Single supplement applies.
Terms and conditions at odysseytraveller.com

PROUDLY
NOT FOR

PROFIT

Educational Travel Specialists


for over 50s since 1983

EDITOR
Danielle Oppermann
danielle.oppermann@news.com.au
FOOD DIRECTOR
Valli Little
valli.little@news.com.au

EDITORIAL
Deputy Editor Shannon Harley shannon.harley@news.com.au
Senior Subeditor/Online Editor Lara Zilibowitz lara.zilibowitz@news.com.au
Junior Subeditor Heidi Finnane heidi.nnane@news.com.au
Editorial Coordinator Amy Pagett amy.pagett@news.com.au
Editorial Enquiries (02) 8062 2791, delicious@newslifemedia.com.au
ART
Art Director Shannon Keogh shannon.keogh@news.com.au
Senior Designer Kate Skinner katherine.skinner@news.com.au
FOOD
Assistant Food Editor Warren Mendes warren.mendes@news.com.au
Food Assistant Sarah Murphy sarah.murphy@news.com.au
Food Enquiries askvalli@newslifemedia.com.au
Senior Editor Matt Preston
Contributors Jill Dupleix, Andrea Frost, Bill Granger,
Jamie Oliver, David Prior, Katie Quinn Davies, Stephanie Westcott
National Advertising Director Prue Cox
NSW Sales Director Paul Blackburn (02) 8062 2563
NSW Group Sales Directors Nicole Bence (02) 8062 2670,
Sam Tomlinson (02) 8062 2314, Belinda Miller (02) 8062 2663
Group Sales Partnerships David Rogers (02) 8062 2066
VIC Sales Director Kim Carollo (03) 9292 3204
VIC Group Sales Directors Sally Paterson (03) 9292 3217,
Lisa Mikkelsen (03) 9292 3206, Astrid White (03) 9292 3222
QLD Sales Director Rose Wegner (07) 3666 6903
SA Advertising Representative Maree Marasco (03) 9292 2749
WA Advertising Representative Bronwyn Robinson (08) 9326 9806
Classieds Advertising Rebecca White 1300 139 305
Brand Solutions Director Sam Smith
Group Brand Solutions Manager Jane Purves (02) 8062 2946
Brand Solutions Manager Kate Corbett (02) 8062 2012
Brand Solutions Coordinator Caitlin Grifth-Pecset (02) 8062 2917
Advertising Creative Director Richard McAuliffe
Advertising Creative Manager Zoe Tack
Senior Art Director, Creative Services Lisa Klaus
Production Director Mark Moes mark.moes@news.com.au
Production Manager Neridah Burke neridah.burke@news.com.au
Ad Production Manager Katie Nagy (02) 8062 2170;
katie.nagy@news.com.au

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under isO14001 Environmental Certication. Paper bre is sourced
from certied forests and controlled sources.

450
YEARS
OF THE
BARD ARE
REVEALED!

delicious.

Publisher ABC Magazines Liz White white.liz@abc.net.au


Publishing Editor ABC Magazines Marija Beram beram.marija@abc.net.au
Commercial Manager, Food Laura Lane laura.lane@news.com.au
Marketing Manager Anthony Whittle anthony.whittle@news.com.au
Brand Manager Renee Gangemi renee.gangemi@news.com.au
Marketing Assistant Lucy Johnston lucy.johnston@news.com.au
Group Circulation Manager, Food Sheri Mohamed sheri.mohamed@news.com.au
Chief Executive Ofcer Nicole Shefeld
Group Publisher, Food Fiona Nilsson
General Manager, Commercial Development Marcus Williams
Commercial Director Miffy Coady
Director of Communications Sharyn Whitten
Marketing Director Diana Kay
General Manager, Retail and Circulation Brett Willis
Subscription Enquiries 1300 656 933; subs@magsonline.com.au
Enquiries: Locked Bag 5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015, tel: (02) 8062 2791, email: delicious@newslifemedia.com.au. Melbourne Ofce, HWT Tower,
Level 5, 40 City Rd, Southbank, Vic 3006, tel: (03) 9292 2000. delicious. is published by NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd (ACN 088 923 906), 2 Holt St,
Surry Hills, NSW 2010, tel: (02) 9288 3000. NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd is a wholly owned subsidiary of News Limited (ACN 007 871 178).
Copyright 2013 by NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd. All rights reserved. ABC and the Wave device trademark are used under licence from the
Australian Broadcasting Corporation. Colour separations News PreMedia. Distributed by Gordon and Gotch Australia Pty Ltd,
tel: 1300 650 666. No material may be reproduced without prior written permission of the publisher.

issn 1448-4455

Comedies,
histories,
tragedies
and
romances.

Send your emails to delicious@newslifemedia.com.au or


write to us at Locked Bag 5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015.

Letter of the month


Charged with making my wife Kates birthday cake, our sons
Charlie, 2, Alex, 4, and I proceeded with an enormous amount
of trepidation to her collection of delicious. magazines to seek
out the culinary master that would walk us through the process.
The winner was Katie Quinn Davies and her gorgeous basil and
lemon olive oil cake with strawberries in syrup
(November 2013, p 116). The cake turned
out perfectly. Thank you Katie and
delicious. for producing amazing recipes.
Justin Fay, Lake Wendouree, Vic
eds note: Congratulations,
Justin! Youve won a Zyliss
Knife Block Set, Carving
Set and Smart Touch Salad
Spinner, valued at $300.
Visit: zyliss.com.

memory Lane
back many wonderful memories of my time there studying Italian.
I couldnt believe that Gelateria Pomposa was featured the
description of mascarpone gelato topped with warm caramelised
gs transported me straight back to the cobblestone streets.
Millicent Golding, Biggera Waters, Qld
fired up
I am the rst to admit that while cooking is not my thing, I like
to think of myself as a bit of a barbecue king. After reading Jamie
Olivers Griller Tactics (November 13, p 84), I realised that the time
had come to change up my usual sausage, onion and tomato sauce
repertoire and challenge my tastes with new sensations time to re
up the barbie. Kevin Nathaniel, Riverview, NSW

delicious. reserves the right to edit reader letters.

hidden gems
Thank you so much for showcasing Perth in Novembers Locavore
(p 143). All too often I think there isnt anything exciting happening
in the food scene in Perth, but it seems I need to get out more and
explore the uncovered treasures! Leesa Plester, Melville, WA
confident cook
My rst reaction upon receiving an annual subscription to delicious.
magazine for my birthday was one of nervousness, as I believed it
would be too sophisticated for my cooking skills. What a revelation!
I have gained more condence and am now willing to cook more of
the recipes featured, its been a great success, thank you delicious.
Shirley-Anne Lukeman, Bonnet Bay, NSW
Follow us:
@deliciousAU

facebook.com/deliciousmagazine
@deliciousmagazine

HOW DO YOU SPOT


AUTHENTIC ITALIAN PASTA?

FROM ITALY TO YOUR TABLE WITH NOTHING LOST IN TRANSLATION

barilla.net.au

NUMBER 1 IN ITALY

facebook.com/casabarilla

Events Photo galleries

delicious.
does

dinne

with Giovanni & Alessandro at Ormeggio


This month, we followed two of our
favourite Australian-Italian chefs,
Giovanni Pilu of Pilu at Freshwater and
Alessandro Pavoni from Ormeggio at
The Spit, on their adventure in Lake
Como, Italy as they cooked up regional
specialities (see our story, p 124). Join
us as we celebrate the chefs return
home with an exclusive delicious. reader
dinner at the recently revamped
two-hatted Ormeggio at The Spit.
Giovanni and Alessandro will create
a ve-course feast that spans Italian
cuisine from north to south, including
canapes on arrival, and each course
will be matched with ne Italian wines.

Where:

Ormeggio at The Spit,


dAlbora Marinas The
Spit, Mosman, NSW
When:
7pm, Wed, February 19
Price:
$120 for 5 courses
matched with ne
Italian wines
Bookings: Taken from 10am,
Monday, January 20,
tel: (02) 9969 4088

In association with

Canapes on arrival

*
Biodynamic veal vitello tonnato
with toasted pine nuts and capers

*
Agnolotti pasta with asparagus,
aged sheeps milk ricotta, black
olives, nduja and watercress

*
Sa cassola (Sardinian seafood and
tomato soup) with fregola

*
Carrot, fennel seed and farro
with vinegar caramel

delicious. 15

event.

delicious.

does dinner

to launch Love to Cook


at Rushcutters, Sydney

In association with

PhotograPhy ANDY LEWIS

Readers gathered with Lallier Grand Cru


Champagne in hand to launch our latest
book, Love to Cook, at Rushcutters in
Sydney. Food director Valli Little teamed
up with executive chef Martin Boetz and
head chef Kasper Christensen (above left)
to showcase dishes from the book and the
restaurant. The shared feast included baby
beetroot and goats curd salad, and
slow-cooked lamb shoulder with chilli mint
sauce, all matched with South Australian
wines from Grant Burge. For more photos,
visit: delicious.com.au.

Coast to coast
This month, join us for two special reader dinners in Queensland and Western Australia
as our state judges showcase the very best produce from their state.

Where:

Thomas Corner Eatery, 1/201


Gympie Tce, Noosaville, Qld
When:
7pm, Thursday, February 27
PrICe:
$100 for 4 courses with
Catalina Sounds wines
BookIngs: (07) 5470 2224

asparagus, grape & haloumi


salad with vinaigrette
serves 4 as a starter
Last years From the Dairy nalist Cedar
Street Cheeseries haloumi is beautiful
when pared with 2013 From the Earth
nalist LiraH sweet apple vinegar.

To make vinaigrette, whisk vinegar, oil and


mustard in a small bowl. Set aside.
Heat half the butter and oil in a frypan
over medium-high heat. Add breadcrumbs
and cook for 2-3 minutes until golden and
crispy. Remove from heat and set aside.
Drain currants, then combine with
asparagus, grapes and vinaigrette.
Heat remaining butter and oil in a frypan
over medium-high heat. Add haloumi and
cook for 1 minute each side or until golden.
Top salad with breadcrumbs, haloumi,
vino cotto and parsley, then serve.

* Panko are coarse Japanese crumbs


from supermarkets. Vino cotto is a
condiment made from cooked grape
must and is from gourmet food shops.

Taste the best of WAs Produce


Awards winners and nalists
with state judge Hadleigh Troy
of Restaurant Amus as
he joins Kiren Mainwaring
at acclaimed East Perth
restaurant Co-op Dining.
This four-course lunch will
be matched with local wines
from Myattseld Vineyards.
Where:

Co-op Dining,
2/11 Regal Pl,
East Perth, WA
When:
7pm, Wednesday,
February 5
PrICe:
$100 for 4 courses
with matching
Myattseld
Vineyards wines
BookIngs: (08) 9221 0404

NOMINATE
AND WIN!
18 delicious.

styling ViViAn WAlsh

Taste the best of


Queenslands past
Produce Awards winners
and nalists, including
the salad featured here, from state judge
David Rayner of Thomas Corner Eatery.

ShowcaSe dinner:
weSTern aUSTraLia

food photography AlAn Benson

ShowcaSe
dinner:
QUeenSLand

1 tbs apple cider vinegar (we used


LiraH sweet apple vinegar)
1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp Dijon mustard
40g unsalted butter
2 tbs olive oil
1/2 cup (25g) panko* or dried breadcrumbs
1/4 cup (35g) currants,
soaked in 2 tbs port
20 asparagus spears, trimmed,
blanched
160g (about 36) red grapes, halved
350g haloumi (we used Cedar Street
Cheeserie haloumi), cut into strips
11/2 tbs vino cotto* or balsamic vinegar
Flat-leaf parsley leaves, to serve

produce awards.

Asparagus, grape
& haloumi salad
with vinaigrette

for blending, chopping or whipping it makes light work of all recipes.


Visit: kitchenaid.com.au. To nominate a producer and for terms and
conditions, visit: deliciousproduceawards.com.au.

delicious.

KiTcHenAiD ADverTising feATure

Easy breezy

The versatile, simple-to-use KitchenAid


Deluxe Hand Blender helps you make
the most of top seafood from the delicious.
Produce Awards right through summer.

Help is at Hand
Great for small, daily jobs that require
a quick, smooth and uniform result,
the KitchenAid Deluxe Hand Blender
($249) is a joy to use. Perfectly weighted
with a rubber grip, its powerful 180-watt
motor quietly blitzes through any culinary
task, whether its blending, mincing,
chopping, whipping, pureing or frothing.
The 1L, BPA-free jug allows you to blend,
serve and store in one container, while the
0.6L chopper makes light work of small
jobs. Switching between attachments,
from chopping blades to whisk, is easy,
and the patented removable pan guards
protect your cookware when mixing
directly in the pan.

FRom tHe sea


Try these simple ideas for making
the most of delicious. Produce Awards
From the Sea nalists using your
KitchenAid Deluxe Hand Blender:

* Using the chopper, make a


fragrant Thai curry paste to cook with
Kinkawooka Petit Bouchot Mussels.
* Use the S-Blade attachment to
pure potato and leek soup until
velvety smooth. Chill and serve as
a canap in small glasses topped
with Yarra Valley Caviar salmon roe.
* Use the whisk attachment to whip
up a batch of creamy herb mayonnaise,
then serve with fresh seafood or grilled
sh such as Cone Bay Barramundi.
* Using the chopper, make a fresh
herb salsa or chunky guacamole to
serve with Mexican style sh tacos
made with Palmers Island Mulloway.
* Serve One Sea Rottnest Island
Scallops on a bed of cauliower pure
blended with the S-Blade attachment.
For more recipe inspiration,
visit: kitchenaid.com.au.

PROUD SPONSORS OF

Easier to grip for a more precise cut.


The Zyliss Knife Range is more than just a colourful addition to your
kitchen. Theres a blade expertly designed for every task each one
made from high quality stainless steel with a non-stick coating to
provide long-lasting sharpness. Ergonomic soft touch handles
ensure youre always in control. Discover the Swiss inspired
range at leading kitchenware retailers.

www.zyliss.com
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The Beach Club


bar at Watsons Bay
Boutique Hotel has
a beach-shack
vibe. Left: Sydneys
new Clubhouse.

Words Lara ZiLibowitZ, shannon harLey, heidi Finnane, LiZZie LoeL & hiLary mcnevin

TABLE TALK
Surf Life Saving Australias national
headquarters in Rosebery, Sydney, has
been given a lift with the newly opened
bar and restaurant Clubhouse. The
laid-back beach vibe of this all-day
venue works well with a share menu
from Rafael Tonon (ex-Barrio Chino).
Visit: clubhouseaustralia.com.
Perched on a harbourside peninsula
in Sydney, the Watsons Bay Boutique
Hotel has relaunched with a stylish
new Vt-out complete with large open
kitchen, timber sundeck and cruisy
Beach Club cocktail bar. Plus, theres
a seafood-dominated summer menu
by executive chef John Pye (ex-Doltone
House). Visit: watsonsbayhotel.com.au.
Set on the edge of St Kilda beach
and with stunning views of Port Phillip
Bay, Captain Baxter has become a
favourite outdoor spot in Melbourne.
Chef and co-owner Matt Dawson
has created a Texible menu with
drink-friendly snacks for lazy
afternoons, think salt and pink-pepper
squid with Korean hot sauce.
Visit: captainbaxter.com.au.
With windows overlooking the surf
at Burleigh Heads in Queensland,
The Fish House, owned by restaurateur
Simon Gloftis, is a celebration of
all things from the sea. According
to seafood expert John Susman of
Sydney-based Fishtales: The Fish
House is what eating seafood in
Australia is all about unpretentious,
professional and seriously delicious
food based on the very best from the
ocean. Visit: theVshhouse.com.au.

Trends News Travel Products Books


Femme FataLe
Meet Gingerella, a
sultry concoction
of ginger, lemon
and spice from
Fairtrade co-ops
around the world.
$4.50/330ml; visit:
karmacola.com.au.

sugar and spice


The Yarra Valley Chocolaterie
& Ice Creamery has looked to the
garden for inspiration for their new
range, including toasted coconut
and curry leaf, and g and fennel
seed. $7.50/bar; visit: yvci.com.au.
delicious. 23

insider.

trending now
The trend for boutique
infused gin has arrived
Down Under with Four
Pillars Gin. Made in
the Yarra Valley, each
bottle is infused with
Australian natives such
as Tasmanian pepper
berry leaf and lemon

nut cracker

a MOVeaBLe FeaST

Prefer your
on-trend coconut
water straight
from the shell?
Make it easy with
the CocoCut no
machete required.
$29 each; visit:
cococut.com.

is a handy new tool from taste.com.au,

ingredients, cooking times and even allergies. Sign up


now for a free 28-day trial at tasteplanner.com.au.

r avio
pa

insider.
p

Chefs table

ar

avion

Sean Brock, Husk Restaurant,


Charleston & Nashville, US

Dont miss...

Daylesford in Victoria plays host to the annual Regional Producers Day, which
is now in its 11th year in the grounds of Lake House (pictured). This market-style
celebration features over 50 stallholders, including the best farmers, producers,
bakers, winemakers and brewers from the region. There are also tastings, cooking
demonstrations and tutorials with a $5 entry fee. Visit: lakehouse.com.au/whats-on.
Head to North East Victoria for the Tastes of Rutherglen Festival 2014
(March 8-9 and March 15-16) for two weekends flled with fabulous food
and wine as leading regional chefs and local winemakers play host to tastings,
markets, music and more. Visit: winemakers.com.au.
Join Martin Teplitzky at his Take 2 Eggs Cooking Academy in Sydney as he
recreates some of the recipes from his mothers legendary cooking school
in Gretta Anna Revisited (February 1 & April 5). Visit: take2eggs.net.
The next time you fy Singapore Airlines, be sure to check out their newly
designed SilverKris Lounge at Sydney airport. Renowned architectural and
interior-design frm ONG&ONG are behind the sleek new lounges worldwide,
which have a home away from home ambience.

What is Husk known for? We rst


opened Husk in Charleston (pictured) to
give a fresh outlook on Southern cuisine.
What makes the restaurants unique?
The dishes and ingredients tell a story
of a particular place, a family, or time
period. We want people to eat delicious
food, but also to think about where they
are and how special the US South is.
What is your favourite ingredient
to cook with? If I had to choose,
I would have to say heirloom corn.
Its responsible for a lot of my favourite
things such as cornbread, grits, hominy
and of course, bourbon.
Do you have a signature dish? I choose
not to. Cooking is about discovery
I like the freedom of constant evolution.
Visit: husknashville.com.

Take a look at the magical country of Morocco through the lens of Aussie photographer
Rob Palmer and his French/Moroccan wife Sophia, in their new book Colour of Maroc
(Murdoch Books, $59.99) a collection of traditional and contemporary recipes
interwoven with personal stories inspired by their travels.
Head to the NSW Northern Rivers with Byron Bay a Food Journey Through
the Region (Tancred Holdings, $34.95). This collection of recipes, compiled by
Remy Tancred and Nelly le Comte, highlights the nest producers and restaurants
of one of our most popular travel destinations.
Join Paris-based foodie Rachel Khoo on her tour de France in her second book
My Little French Kitchen (Penguin, $39.95) as she seeks inspiration from famous
hotpots and hidden gems around the country. Cant get enough of French avours?
Irish-born Trish Deseines new book, The Paris Gourmet (Thames & Hudson, $45),
is a denitive guide to Paris with must-visit addresses and insider tips.
26 delicious.

JUST ONE TASTE


AND YOULL CHANGE YOUR TUNA
Succulent chunk-style tuna llets
All natural ingredients
In an Italian extra virgin olive oil blend
Try it and youll understand why Australians have loved their Sirena since 1956

For tasty tuna recipes and more, go to www.sirena.com.au

what to drink when. by andrea frost

Jacobs Creek Riesling


2012, $12

Ive often thought that what makes anything suitable to the


great outdoors is really just a matter of attitude. Well, that
and the weather. Well, your attitude, the weather, food and
the view. So, alfresco dining is a warm-weather activity and
as such usually calls for certain styles of cooking; picnics,
barbecues and casual platters. Wine-wise Id tend toward
food-friendly whites as well as lighter reds.
First, be sure to pack some riesling. Its an exquisite wine
with a willingness to match to many different types of foods. Try Henschke Peggys
Hill Riesling ($20) or (the most lauded) Grosset Polish Hill Riesling ($52).
Vermentino is a savoury and easy-drinking white with racy acidity and fresh lime
a wonderful match with seafood. Try Montevecchio Bianco ($23), a blend of mainly
Vermentino and Fiano, or Olivers Taranga Vineyards Vermentino ($24).
Ros and summer just go hand in hand. Try Freeman Rondo Ros ($20),
Le Chat Noir Ros ($16) or La Linea Ros ($21). Remember to serve it ice cold.
When it comes to reds, try those at the lighter end of the spectrum. Grenache
offers bright berry avours and a little spice. Try S.C. Pannell Grenache ($55)
or Wirra Wirra The Absconder Grenache ($70).
Gamay is famous for making the lighter Beaujolais reds of France, which have
oral notes, some berries and a little spice and acid; and is ideal for warmer weather.
Try De Bortoli Roundstone Vinoque Gamay ($25) or Sorrenberg Gamay ($40). d.
Follow Andrea at newrubypress.com; send your questions for Andrea to:
delicious@newslifemedia.com.au with What to drink when in the subject line.

A wonderful example of
a modern Australian ros,
this wine is pale, dry and
delicious. Brimming with
wafts of red fruit, rosehip
and a little spice, the wine
is bone-dry with refreshing
acidity to nish. Chill it
down and drink it up.

$$$

Wirra Wirra The


Absconder Grenache
2012, $70
A variety that is doing very
well in Australia, this wine
is bright and charming,
offering aromas of crushed
red berries, some earth
and a hint of spice. The
palate is medium-bodied,
offering berries, spice and
lovely soft tannins.

Is it ever OK to put ice cubes in wine?

Putting ice in your wine is not against any laws, its merely a wine-drinking faux pas.
Or is it? Well, when wine is too warm, the aromas dissipate and all youre left with is
tepid alcohol that makes for an unpleasant drink. To my mind, its better to put a cube
or two of ice in your wine to cool it down and keep it fresh, than to drink it warm.
However, when it comes to old, rare or special wine, I take all of this back.

illustrAtions sTephAnie WesTCoTT

With outdoor entertaining on the agenda,


Andrea shares favourite wines for summer.

$$

La Linea Ros 2013, $21

Words AndReA fRosT

Take it outside

Possibly one of the


best-value wines around,
Jacobs Creek Riesling
is a highly awarded and
easy-drinking wine. This
wine offers lovely oral
aromatics, a squeeze of
citrus on the palate and a
gentle line of acid to nish.

EAT WELL . BE WELL .

share your
corolla memories
and win a goodtime in
daylesford, Victoria
Share your Corolla goodtimes memories and have the opportunity
to create more goodtime moments with this spectacular foodie
weekend away. Winners will be flown to Melbourne to go and stay
at the luxurious Lake House in Daylesford to enjoy a spa experience,
fine-dining tasting dinner and private cooking demonstrations.
To enter, simply visit: toyota.com.a:/goodtimes and share your
favourite Corolla moment whether it was your first car or a road
trip with friends. These days, the Corolla Hatch has a more sporty
design to keep the goodtimes coming.

win the ultimate


foodie weekend
To enter, tell us, in 100 words or less,
your Corolla goodtime story and you
could go in the draw to win:
4 x return business-class flights to
Melbourne from your nearest
Australian capital city.
3 nights accommodation in a
waterfront suite at Lake House.
A tasting-menu dinner for 4 people,
valued at $250 per person.
Private cooking demonstrations
for 4 people at Lake House.
Spa experiences for 4 people
at Lake House.
To enTer, visiT:
ToyoTa.Com.au/goodTimes

To find out more about Corolla, visit: toyota.com.a:/corolla


* Entry open to Australian residents aged 18 years and over. Prize valued at up to $22,500 (incl GST). Promotion commences on 02/01/2014 at 12:00pm AEDT and
closes at 11:59am AEDT on 30/01/2014. To enter, go to toyota.com.au/corolla/goodtimes and submit your entry. Judged on 07/02/2014. Winners will be notified in
writing and published on the Toyota website toyota.com.au (Newsroom section) on 12/02/2014. Prize must be claimed by 07/03/2014. Prizes must be used on or
by dates, and in the manner set out in the promotional Terms and Conditions. For full promotional Terms and Conditions, go to toyota.com.au/corolla/goodtimes.
Promoter: Toyota Motor Corporation Australia Limited (ABN 64 009 686 097) 155 Bertie Street, Port Melbourne VIC 3207.

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insider.

words Lizzie LoeL

food photography ALAn Benson

styling ViVien wALsh

Wood Fire Grill

WHERE noosa wharf, 2 Quamby pl,


noosa heads, Qld, (07) 5447 2455.
WHo owner Brent ogilvie, who also
owns famed rickys next door and
nearby aromas cafe, with chef luke
Czajkowskyj (ex-rockpool Bar & grill
and flying fish) who heads up the
team in the open marble-clad kitchen.
THE BUZZ walls of rewood make it
a cosy spot, but the parkland and river
views bring salty breezes a gentle
reminder you are dining in paradise.
THE MENU Cooking is centred on the
roaring woodre, and provenance is
key for meat, seafood and produce.
THE DRINKS Craft beers and ciders
are on tap, theres a small list
of classic cocktails and a strong
international wine list compliments
the beef-centric menu.
MUST EAT try the bone marrow
with garlic and parsley on sourdough
or the smoky chargrilled king prawns
with herby chimichurri.

Into the re

The team behind Noosa favourite Rickys now has a spin-off


restaurant, where its all about fresh produce cooked over ames.

king prawns
with chimichurri
serves 4-6 as a starter
16 green king prawns, (shells intact),
heads and legs removed
11/2 cups at-leaf parsley leaves
1/2 cup oregano leaves
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tsp chilli akes
100ml extra virgin olive oil,
plus extra to brush
1/2 tsp dried thyme
1/2 tsp dried oregano
Juice of 1/2 lemon,
plus wedges to serve

Dilute 2 tsp salt in 1 tbs hot water and


set aside to cool. Split the whole prawns
lengthways and devein. Set aside.
To make the chimichurri, whiz remaining
ingredients, except the lemon wedges,
with salt water in a small food processor
until smooth. Transfer half to a large bowl.
Add prawns, then cover and chill for
15 minutes to marinate. Set aside the
remaining chimichurri until ready to serve.
Preheat a chargrill pan over high heat
and brush with oil. Grill prawns, esh-side
down for 2-3 minutes. Turn and cook for
a further 1 minute or until cooked through.
Serve the prawns drizzled with reserved
chimichurri and lemon wedges on the side.

delicious. 33

insider.

Eurovision
pork schnitzel with slaw
Serves 4
7 star anise
5 bay leaves
2 tsp each fennel and coriander seeds
2 /3 cup (190g) cooking salt
1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar
800g pork neck, skin and rind removed
(ask your butcher to do this) to give
600g llet
2 /3 cup (100g) plain our
3 eggs, lightly beaten with 1 tbs water
12 /3 cups (120g) fresh rye breadcrumbs
75g unsalted butter
1/2 cup (125ml) sunower oil
Lemon wedges, to serve
Slaw
1 Lebanese cucumber, thinly sliced
6 chives, roughly chopped
1 radicchio heart, shredded
1/2 cup at-leaf parsley leaves
2 tbs creme fraiche or sour cream
2 tbs pure (thin) cream
1 tsp Dijon mustard

34 delicious.

2 tsp white vinegar


11/2 tbs olive oil
1 tsp caster sugar
Combine anise, bay, fennel and coriander
seeds, salt and sugar with 2L (8 cups) water
in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to
the boil, then cook for 3-4 minutes until
sugar dissolves. Cool completely. Transfer
to a plastic container, then add pork, cover
and chill overnight to brine.
Drain pork, discarding brine. Cut pork
into four 150g pieces, then place between
2 pieces of plastic wrap and lightly atten
with a meat mallet. Dust pork in our, then
dip in eggwash and coat in breadcrumbs.
Heat butter and sunower oil in a
frypan over medium heat. Shallow-fry
pork for 4 minutes each side or until
golden. Drain on paper towel.
For the slaw, combine the cucumber,
chives, radicchio and parsley in a bowl.
Whisk the remaining ingredients together
in a small bowl, then season and drizzle
over the slaw.
Serve pork with slaw and lemon wedges.

Rushcutters

WHERE 10 neild ave, rushcutters


Bay, nsW, (02) 9326 9348.
WHo Keystone group has teamed
up with executive chef Martin Boetz
(ex-longrain) and head chef Kasper
christensen (ex-Quay).
THE buzz the site of the former
neild avenue restaurant has been
given a rustic farmhouse vibe with a
vaulted beam ceiling, exposed brick
walls and splashes of greenery across
the bar, deli and open dining room.
THE mEnu full-avoured and
seasonal, featuring produce from
Martins hawkesbury river farm, the
cooks co-op; European-inspired with
smoked meats, german-style
house-made rye and simple salads.
THE dRinks Wines are by the glass,
beers are on tap and cocktails are
made with natural sweeteners.
musT EaT the plump fried sardines
with sweet roasted tomatoes, and
from 5pm the pick of the menu is
the brined pork schnitzel.

Words Heidi Finnane location photography Mary canning


food photography alan BenSon styling ViVien walSH

After 13 years at Sydneys Longrain, Martin Boetz returns to his


European roots with the new pared back, all-day diner Rushcutters.

TEN D ERIS E OR S TIRF R Y


MAKE IT

insider.

cofee granita
Serves 6
1/2

cup (110g) caster sugar


1 tbs instant coffee granules dissolved
in 200ml hot water
50ml Kahlua (or other coffee liqueur)
Whipped cream and shaved dark
chocolate, to serve
Combine the sugar and hot coffee in
a large bowl, stirring until the sugar
dissolves. Add Kahlua and 200ml cold

36 delicious.

water, then stir to combine. Pour the


mixture into a shallow container, then
freeze for 1 hour or until partially frozen.
Remove the container from the freezer
and break up the crystals by scraping the
surface with a fork. Return to the freezer
for 1 hour, then repeat process two more
times. Transfer granita to an airtight
container and freeze until needed.
To serve, divide the granita among
6 small serving glasses. Top with a dollop
of whipped cream, sprinkle with chocolate
shavings and serve immediately.

food photography alan BenSon

The home of the Melbourne Symphony Orchestra, Hamer Hall,


now also houses bright new Italian eatery Fatto Bar & Cantina.

words Hilary Mcnevin

Cool concerto

WHERE 100 st Kilda rd, Melbourne,


Vic, (03) 8698 8800.
WHo the Van haandel group
owners of stokehouse in st Kilda and
Brisbane, and Comme in Melbourne
CBd opened the hamer hall site as
trocadero in 2012, but have recently
relaunched it as fatto Bar & Cantina.
THE BUZZ a chic redesign by design
studio projects of imagination brings
a mod-bistro feel, and the groups
executive chef and creative director,
anthony Musarra is back in the kitchen
cooking italian-inuenced dishes.
THE MENU there is a large appetizer
section think focaccia with whipped
ricotta, crushed peas and beans
classic pasta dishes and meaty mains.
THE DRINKS a savvy list of australian
and italian wines and aperitivos.
MUST EAT pastas are a must, try the
ravioli with roasted broccoli or crab
spaghettini, then skip espresso and
head straight for a coffee granita. d.

styling vivien walSH

Fatto Bar & Cantina

Recipes rebecca smith & lucy williams photogRaphy maja smend


styling jenny iggleden, rachel jukes & lucy oreilly

Tarts

keep a packet of pastry on standby in


the freezer and youll never be caught
out again for last-minute summer picnics.
delicious. 39

< pancetta, pecorino & herb tart


Serves 4-6
300ml thickened cream
1 large (quiche size) sheet
1/4 cup (60ml) milk
frozen shortcrust
1/2 cup (40g) grated pecorino
pastry, thawed
150g pancetta, chopped
1 tbs each chopped at-leaf
1 egg, plus 2 extra egg yolks
parsley, mint and basil
Preheat the oven to 180C and grease a 20cm (3cm deep)
loose-bottomed tart pan. Line pan with pastry, trimming any
excess, then chill for 15 minutes. Line tart with baking paper
and ll with pastry weights. Cook for 10 minutes, then remove
weights and baking paper. Return to the oven and cook for
a further 5 minutes or until golden.
Meanwhile, heat a frypan over medium-high heat.
Add the pancetta and cook, stirring, for 4-5 minutes
until crisp. Remove from heat and drain on paper towel.
Combine egg and extra yolks, cream, milk and cheese
in a bowl. Season, then stir through herbs. Scatter half the
pancetta over the tart shell, then pour over egg mixture
and top with remaining pancetta.
Bake for 30-35 minutes until lling is golden and set.
Cool for 15 minutes, then remove from pan, slice and serve.

crab & watercress soufe tarts >


Serves 4
2 sheets frozen shortcrust
pastry, thawed
2 eggs, separated
15g unsalted butter
15g plain our

Large pinch cayenne pepper


150ml milk
200g fresh cooked crabmeat*
1 cup watercress leaves,
nely chopped

Preheat oven to 200C and grease four 10cm loose-bottomed


tart pans. Line pans with pastry, trimming any excess, then chill
for 15 minutes. Line tarts with baking paper and pastry weights,
then bake for 10 minutes. Remove weights and baking paper,
then cook for a further 5 minutes or until golden.
Meanwhile, whisk eggwhites with electric beaters until soft
peaks form. In a separate bowl, beat yolks until smooth. Set aside.
Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add our
and cayenne pepper, then cook, stirring, for 2 minutes or until
our is well combined. Slowly add milk, whisking constantly for
2-3 minutes until thick. Remove from heat, then add egg yolks,
crabmeat, and watercress, stirring to combine. Season.
Gently fold 1 tbs eggwhite through crab mixture to loosen,
then fold through remaining eggwhite. Divide mixture among
tart pans, then place on a baking tray and bake for 15 minutes
or until lling is golden and set. Remove from pans, then serve.

* Fresh cooked crabmeat is available from shmongers.


40 delicious.

easy does it.

< leek & feta tart


Serves 6
1 large (quiche size) sheet
frozen shortcrust pastry,
thawed
25g unsalted butter
2 leeks (white part only),
thinly sliced

100g good-quality feta,


crumbled
200ml thickened cream
100ml milk
2 eggs, plus
2 extra yolks

Preheat the oven to 170C and grease a 23cm loose-bottomed


tart pan. Line pan with pastry, trimming any excess, then chill
for 15 minutes. Line tart with baking paper and ll with pastry
weights. Cook for 10 minutes, then remove weights and
baking paper. Return to the oven and cook for a further
5 minutes or until golden.
Meanwhile, melt butter in a large frypan over medium heat.
Add leek and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-4 minutes until
softened. Season, then scatter leek and feta over the tart shell.
Combine the cream, milk, egg and extra egg yolks in a
bowl. Season well, then pour over the leek.
Bake for 30 minutes or until lling is golden and set.
Cool for 15 minutes, then remove from the pan and serve.

peach & cinnamon puf pastry squares >


Serves 4
1 sheet frozen butter
puff pastry, thawed
1 egg, lightly beaten
4 small peaches

1/2

cup (110g) caster sugar


2 cinnamon quills
Mascarpone or thick cream,
to serve

Preheat the oven to 220C. Place the pastry on a baking


paper-lined baking tray. Prick all over with a fork and brush
with egg. Cover with a sheet of baking paper and top with
a heavy tray. Bake for 15 minutes or until crisp and golden.
Meanwhile, cut a small cross in the base of each peach.
Blanch the peaches in a saucepan of boiling water for
30 seconds. Drain and refresh in cold water, then peel
and slice into wedges.
Combine sugar, cinnamon and 1 cup (250ml) water in
a saucepan over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring, for
1-2 minutes until sugar dissolves. Add peach and cook
for 5 minutes or until peach is tender. Remove peach and
set aside, then increase heat to high and bring liquid to
the boil. Cook for 7 minutes or until reduced and syrupy.
Discard cinnamon and set syrup aside.
Arrange the peach over the pastry, then drizzle over the
syrup. Slice into 4 squares, then serve with mascarpone. d.

reasons

to barbecue

Just the thought of outdoor smokers, spits and steaks gets Matt all hot
under the collar, so this month he cant settle on only 5 reasons to grill.
You are to cut it into pieces, and the priest
shall arrange them on the wood that is
burning on the altar It is a burnt ofering,
a food ofering, an aroma pleasing to the
Lord. Here it is, writ large as life in The
Bible God loves a barbecue! And who
are we to disagree, so rather than my
usual 5 reasons, here are S reasons.
Why? Because there are just so many
more reasons starting with S!

SLABS

some excellent smoky avours. You can achieve this on your


lidded or kettle barbecue by buying wood chips, throwing them
in a holed metal smoker box (available from barbecue shops and
big hardware places), wrapping them in heavy duty aluminium
foil, or arranging them in a small robust metal roasting tray,
before introducing them to heat to make them smoulder. This
summer, I intend to sneak round to chef Ben Shewrys home to
play with his giant US style smoker-cum-barbecue that is the
size of a small locomotive and that will smoke and slow-cook
everything from hogs mopped with glaze to beef brisket.

SKEWERS

Of course, the other route is to ask your butcher to cut your


steaks super-thin and blast them on a searing-hot grill.
I love steak done this way for steak sandwiches with
slow-cooked onions, rocket, beetroot and horseradish.

Skewers are a sure-re winner with kids, about the easiest


of all meats to cook, and an invitation to be creative.
Lengths of spice-rubbed tenderloin served with peanut
sauce for satay; skewered cubes of lamb,
or coriander seed-rubbed pork, grilled
as Russian shashlyk; or to make Greek
souvlaki or Turkish sis kebabi. I prefer to
marinate my lamb or chicken Indian-style
in yoghurt with spices, or take a leaf out
of the Iranian kitchen by blitzing onions
so I can steep the meat in onion juice
overnight this makes for wonderfully
tender meat. My favourite skewers are not
marinated at all. Theres an old Portuguese
recipe that interweaves lightly crushed
whole fresh bay leaves with beef onto
skewers, then grills them slowly. The leaf oils give the meat
a beautiful avour and as the leaves burn, the smoke adds
another layer of avour. Also, dont forget the Cypriot
caul-wrapped sheftalia skewers, which are not all that
diferent to our next S the superstar of the barbecue.

SMOKE

SAUSAGES

Refers to icy cold beer obviously, as a barbecue without beer is


like a pagan festival without a sacrice. Slabs also account for
meat. Get all Neanderthal and throw a whole hunk of animal
on the grill to commune with your
cave-dwelling ancestors. Perhaps a beef
llet (nicely seasoned with salt only as this
will help a perfect crust to form; no pepper
because that will burn) or a boned-out leg
of lamb marinated in oil, lemon, garlic and
rosemary. Start the meat on a very hot grill
or at plate over a direct heat, then when
its got a lovely burnished surface swap it
over to the cool side of the barbecue and
cook it with the lid down and with only
indirect heat until done to your liking.

STEAK

While Aussie barbies are all about quick cookery, in the US


South, where barbecuing is also a religion, its all about taking
things slow n steady, with indirect heat and pits, which are very
diferent from our chrome-domed gas guzzlers. Slower cooking
benets cheap cuts of meat and also allows the meat to pick up

This is what puts the sizzle into the barbecue. Just a few
tips when cooking your snags: make sure they are at room
temperature before cooking; toast them up on a hot grill rst;
then let them nish on a far lower heat this should ensure
that theyre succulent and cooked through.

illustration Stephanie weStcott

I received a spit
for my birthday, so
lambs and suckling
pigs are destined
to slowly turn (and
turn) into dinner.

matt preston.

SPIT

This summer, Ill be inviting many more people round each time
I throw a barbecue because I received a spit for my birthday.
So, whole lambs and suckling pigs are destined to slowly
turn (and turn) into dinner. Youll nd basic spits selling
at mega-hardware shops for about $100.

SEAFOOD

Sure the barbecue may be all about satisfying the desire for
meat but dont forget the beauty of bugs or lobsters cooked
in the half shell, or prawns cooked on skewers for ease. Or cook
prawns a la plancha as the Spanish do, so they curl up orange
with chunks of chorizo, capsicum and blistered cherry tomatoes.

SWEETCORN

While I understand there is a place for grilling eggplant, eld


mushrooms or zucchini, really the only vego solution that cuts it
for me on the same level as a good snag or steak is roasty-edged
cobs of sweet corn. These you can slather with butter, salt,
lime juice and dark brown sugar (for a sharper version
of the Dutch classic) or a mix of toasted shredded coconut,
chilli powder and fresh red chilli, cut with a little sugar and salt.

SWEET

There used to be that thing when people would ask everyone


to bring their own meat to the barbecue, but I would far rather
they brought their own desserts. Personally I could just go a
Lime Splice or barbecued bananas cooked in their skins with
chunks of chocolate pushed into the esh through a single long
incision. And dont forget that sweet works well with desserts
as well as with savoury. Pineapple is a case in point. In that
new cookbook of mine, Ive got a recipe for pineapple with lime
syrup and black pepper which is ace on the grill but you can
also fry rings of it next to bacon for a killer Aussie burger.
Why not go all out and just fry the pineapple in the bacon fat?

SALADS

Please close the curtains and disconnect the phone. What I am


about to tell you might have the Secret Grill Police banging
on my door to conscate my tongs if they heard what I am
about to share, to wit: I think that the salads are more interesting
than the meat at a barbecue and thats not just because Id
rather hang out with women than men overly keen on proving
their alpha-dom. Id love to tell you more, but well have to save
that for my next column... d.
Matt Prestons new cookbook, Fast, Fresh and Unbelievably
Delicious (Plum/Pan Macmillan; $39.95) is on sale now.
delicious. 43

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Looking for summer


salad inspiration?
ALMOND PAN FRIED HALOUMI,
ROCKET AND ORANGE SALAD
INGREDIENTS

METHOD

TIPS

juice of 1 orange
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon wholegrain mustard
125g baby rocket leaves
1 cup parsley leaves
3 oranges, peeled, halved and
thinly sliced
180g packet Lemnos Haloumi, cut
into 1/2 cm thick slices
plain our, for dusting
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 1/2 cups fresh breadcrumbs
1/2 cup natural aked almonds,
roughly chopped
oil, for shallow frying

1. Combine orange juice, oil, garlic and


mustard in a jar and shake until well
combined.

This salad makes a perfect


vegetarian meal.

www.lemnosfoods.com

2. Arrange rocket, parsley and orange


slices on a serving platter.
3. Coat haloumi in our, dip in egg and
roll in combined breadcrumbs and
almonds, pressing rmly.

To save time, cook haloumi in


advance and then ash in a hot
oven for 2-3 minutes just prior
to serving.

4. Heat oil in a frypan over medium


heat and cook haloumi on each side,
until golden. Drain on absorbent
paper, before adding to salad greens.
Drizzle with dressing and serve
immediately.

te life the Mediterranean way

Katie Quinn Davies menu for two Tropical desserts Valli Littles beach barbecue

delicious. 47

vallis kitchen diary.

goe down

What better way to enjoy a fresh catch of seafood


than with a sunset beach barbecue? Simply prep
your herbs and sauces in advance, then sit back
and relax as the food sizzles on the open ames.

delicious. 49

vallis kitchen diary.

Chilli soy marinade


2 small red chillies, seeds removed,
nely chopped
2 tbs light soy sauce
1/3 cup (80ml) oyster sauce
2 tbs sh sauce
2 tbs palm sugar
2 garlic cloves, nely chopped
For the marinade, combine all the
ingredients in a bowl. Add the prawns
and toss to coat. Set aside for at least
30 minutes to marinate.
Preheat a barbecue or chargrill
to high and cook the prawns, turning,
for 4 minutes or until cooked through.
Combine ponzu and aioli in a bowl.
Serve prawns with the ponzu aioli, lime
wedges and snow pea tendrils, if using.

Serves 4

salmon escalopes with


dill & avocado salad
Serves 4
1/4

cup (60ml) olive oil, plus extra to brush


Finely grated zest of 1 lemon, plus 1 tbs
lemon juice and wedges to serve
1 garlic clove, nely chopped
4 x 200g skinless salmon llets
1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil
1 tbs Champagne vinegar
or white wine vinegar
Dill & avocado salad
2 Lebanese cucumbers, halved, sliced
1 avocado, halved, sliced
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
1/2 bunch at-leaf parsley, leaves picked
1/2 bunch dill, fronds picked
Combine the olive oil, lemon zest and
garlic, then season well. Slice the salmon
on a 45-degree angle into 1cm-thick slices.

50 delicious.

Coat the salmon in the marinade


and set aside for 15 minutes.
Preheat a barbecue or chargrill to high.
Combine the extra virgin olive oil, vinegar
and lemon juice. Season well and set
dressing aside.
For the salad, combine all ingredients.
Brush the chargrill with olive oil and cook
the salmon for 30 seconds each side or
until just cooked and slightly charred.
Toss the salad with the dressing, then
serve with the salmon and lemon wedges.

chilli soy prawns with ponzu aioli


Serves 4 as a starter
12 large green prawns (unpeeled)
2 tbs ponzu sauce* (see Cooks
Notes, p 56)
300g aioli* (see Cooks Notes, p 56)
Lime wedges and snow pea tendrils*
(optional see Cooks Notes, p 56),
to serve

400g can chickpeas, rinsed, drained


2 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp smoked paprika (pimenton)*
(see Cooks Notes, p 56)
2 tbs olive oil, plus extra to brush
8 fresh sardines, cleaned (ask
your shmonger to do this)
8 thin slices jamon or prosciutto
1 cup (320g) tomato chutney
2 tsp harissa
Salad leaves, to serve
Preheat a barbecue to medium-high.
Place a frypan over medium heat.
Combine chickpeas, cumin, pimenton
and oil in a bowl, then add to the pan and
cook, stirring occasionally, for 4 minutes
or until chickpeas are crisp and golden.
Wrap each sardine in a slice of jamon and
brush with oil. Barbecue the sardines for
2-3 minutes each side until cooked through.
Combine the chutney and harissa, then
serve with sardines, warm chickpeas and
salad leaves.

reCiPeS valli little & warren menDeS PhoTogrAPhy jeremy SimonS STyling DaviD morgan
ShoT on loCATion AT PineTreeS lodge, lord hoWe iSlAnd (PineTreeS.Com.Au).

jamon-wrapped sardines
with harissa and chickpeas

Salmon escalopes
with dill &
avocado salad.
Opposite: chilli
soy prawns with
ponzu aioli.

vallis kitchen diary.

chargrilled baby octopus


with pico de gallo
Serves 4
2 bay leaves
1 tbs whole black peppercorns
1/4 cup (60ml) white wine vinegar
1kg baby octopus, beaks removed
1/2 cup (125ml) olive oil
2 garlic cloves, nely chopped
2 tsp caster sugar

52 delicious.

Pico de gallo
cup (60ml) olive oil
2 long green chillies, nely chopped
2 spring onions, nely chopped
2 garlic cloves, nely chopped
2 tomatoes, seeds removed, chopped
Juice of 1 lime, plus wedges to serve
1/2 bunch coriander, leaves chopped
1/4

Fill a large saucepan with water and add


bay leaves, peppercorns, vinegar and

1 tbs sea salt. Bring to a boil, then add


the octopus and cook for 30 minutes
or until tender.
Meanwhile, to make the pico de gallo,
combine all ingredients and set aside.
Drain octopus and combine with the oil,
garlic and sugar. Season well. Preheat a
barbecue or chargrill to high. Cook the
octopus, turning, for 4-5 minutes or until
charred. Serve with pico de gallo and
lime wedges to squeeze over.

Jamon-wrapped
sardines with
harissa and
chickpeas

Cut each crab into 6, using a cleaver,


and make a few cracks in the shell of each
piece using the blunt side of the knife.
Heat the oil in a wok over high heat until
it starts to smoke. Add onion, chilli, garlic,
ginger and spring onion, then stir-fry for
1 minute or until fragrant. Add the crab
and toss to combine.
Add tomato, rice wine, sugar and kecap
manis, then toss to combine. Cover and
steam for 4 minutes or until crab is cooked.
Serve immediately topped with kafr
lime leaf and coriander.

barramundi in banana leaf


with coconut rice

whole baked snapper with


ginger and chilli
Serves 4
4 lemons, sliced, plus wedges to serve
6cm piece ginger, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 long red chillies, sliced
1 cup coriander leaves, plus extra to serve
1/3 cup (80ml) olive oil
2 whole snapper, cleaned (ask your
shmonger to do this), skin scored
Thinly sliced spring onion and
mint leaves, to serve
Preheat a barbecue or chargrill to high.
Place 2 sheets of foil on a workbench and
top each with a sheet of baking paper.
Divide half the lemon slices, ginger,
garlic, chilli, coriander and oil between
the paper and top with the sh. Cover with
remaining lemon slices, ginger, garlic,
chilli, coriander and oil, then season. Seal

54 delicious.

the parcels and cook on the barbecue


for 25-30 minutes until cooked.
Open the parcels and top with spring
onion, herbs and lemon wedges.

chilli crab
Serves 4
3 uncooked blue swimmer crabs*
(see Cooks Notes, p 56)
2 tbs peanut oil
1/2 red onion, thinly sliced
2 long red chillies, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, nely chopped
2cm piece ginger, grated
2 spring onions, cut into batons
3 tomatoes, chopped
2 tbs Chinese rice wine (shaohsing)*
(see Cooks Notes, p 56)
1 tbs each brown sugar and kecap
manis* (see Cooks Notes, p 56)
3 kafr lime leaves, nely shredded
1 cup coriander leaves

11/2 cups (265g) sticky rice*


(see Cooks Notes, p 56)
1 tbs sh sauce
1 tbs grated palm sugar or brown sugar
2 tbs grated ginger
4 x 200g skinless barramundi llets
1 tbs peanut oil
2 garlic cloves, nely chopped
6 spring onions, thinly sliced
1/2 cup (125ml) coconut milk
2 limes, sliced
4 large fresh banana leaves* (see Cooks
Notes, p 56)
4 kafr lime leaves, nely shredded
2 long red chillies, thinly sliced
Rinse rice, then soak in a bowl of cold water
for 1 hour. Combine sh sauce, sugar and
1 tbs ginger in a bowl, then brush over sh.
Set aside for 15 minutes to marinate.
Heat oil in a frypan over medium heat
and cook garlic, remaining 1 tbs ginger
and half the spring onion for 2 minutes
or until fragrant. Add the rice and stir
to coat. Add 11/4 cups (310ml) hot water
along with the coconut milk. Season
and cook, covered, over low heat for
20 minutes or until rice is cooked.
Preheat barbecue to high. Place 2 lime
slices in the centre of each banana leaf and
top with a sh llet and kafr lime leaf. Fold
up to form parcels and enclose in foil to
seal. Barbecue, turning, for 12 minutes or
until cooked. Top with chilli and remaining
spring onion, then serve with rice.

Opener: bunting from Terrace (Bondi and Woollahra NSW, terraceoutdoorliving.com.au);


blue cloth (used throughout) from Cloth Fabric (Darlinghurst NSW, clothfabric.com).

Serves 4

vallis kitchen diary.

Whole baked snapper


with ginger and chilli.
Opposite: chilli crab.

vallis kitchen diary.

Barramundi in banana
leaf with coconut rice

56 delicious.

chocolate smores
Makes 12
24 white marshmallows
24 thin chocolate biscuits (we used
Phillippas Chocolate Biscuits)
200g good-quality dark
chocolate, melted
Cocoa powder, to dust
Place marshmallows on long skewers
and hold over a barbecue until charred.
Place 2 marshmallows on each of
12 biscuits, drizzle with melted chocolate
and sandwich with remaining 12 biscuits.
Dust with cocoa and drizzle with extra
chocolate to serve. d.

Cooks Note
* Snow pea tendrils are from
*
*
*
*

selected greengrocers.
Ponzu is a tart, citrus-based
Japanese sauce, available
from Asian grocers.
Good-quality aioli and smoked
paprika (pimenton) are from
gourmet food shops and delis.
Whole blue swimmer crabs are
available from shmongers.
Chinese rice wine (shaohsing),
kecap manis (Indonesian sweet
soy sauce) and sticky or
glutinous rice (a short-grain rice
thats sticky when cooked) are
available from supermarkets.

en
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58 delicious.

styling berni smithies


photogRaphy Jeremy simons
Recipes warren mendes

smoked chicken & g salad


serves 4
11/2 tbs pomegranate molasses*
(see Cooks Notes)
1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 radicchio, leaves torn
1/2 oakleaf lettuce, leaves torn
3 x 140g smoked chicken breast
llets* (see Cooks Notes)
4 gs, quartered lengthways
1 Lebanese cucumber, halved
lengthways, thinly sliced
50g manchego* (see Cooks Notes)
Sourdough, to serve

To make the dressing, combine the


pomegranate molasses, oil and lemon
juice in a small bowl. Season and set aside.
Combine the radicchio and oakleaf
lettuce in a large bowl and shred the
chicken over the salad leaves, discarding
the skin. Scatter over the g and
cucumber, then, using a vegetable peeler,
shave over the manchego.
Drizzle the dressing over salad
and serve with slices of sourdough.

Cooks Note
* Pomegranate molasses is a Middle
*
*

Eastern condiment with a sweet/


sour avour, available from delis.
Smoked chicken breast llets
are available from selected
supermarkets and delis.
Manchego, a hard Spanish sheeps
milk cheese, is available from
selected supermarkets and delis.

pan-fried blue-eye
with wild rice salad
Serves 4
1/3

cup (80ml) olive oil


4 x 200g blue-eye llets
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon,
plus wedges to serve
1 tsp Dijon mustard
3/4 cup (135g) wild or brown rice, cooked
to packet instructions, cooled

60 delicious.

100g marinated roasted capsicum,


drained, chopped
1/3 cup (50g) pine nuts, toasted
1/2 bunch mint, leaves torn
1/2 bunch basil, leaves torn
Place 2 tbs oil in a large frypan over
medium heat. Season the sh and cook,
skin-side down, for 4 minutes, then turn
and cook for a further 3 minutes or until
cooked through. Transfer to a plate and

set aside to rest, loosely covered


with foil, for 3 minutes.
Meanwhile, to make the dressing,
combine the lemon zest and juice, mustard
and remaining 2 tbs oil in a large bowl.
Season, then add the cooled rice. Add
the roasted capsicum, pine nuts, mint
and basil, then toss to combine.
Discard the skin from the sh and
serve with the wild rice salad and lemon
wedges to squeeze over.

daily special
chorizo, ricotta
& zucchini casarecce
Serves 4
1 tbs olive oil
160g dried chorizo sausage, sliced
4 large zucchinis, halved lengthways,
thinly sliced on the diagonal
2 garlic cloves, nely chopped
400g casarecce or penne
1 cup (120g) frozen peas
1/4 cup (60ml) white wine
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1/2 bunch basil leaves
100g ricotta, crumbled

Place the oil in a large frypan over


medium-high heat, add chorizo and cook
for 2-3 minutes until golden. Add zucchini
and garlic, then cook for a further
2-3 minutes until fragrant. Set aside.
Meanwhile, cook pasta to packet
instructions, adding the peas for
the nal 2 minutes. Drain, reserving
1/3 cup (80ml) cooking water.
Add the wine and lemon juice to
the frypan, along with the pasta, peas,
reserved water and half the basil, then
season. Return to medium heat and
stir to combine until heated through.
Serve with ricotta and remaining basil.

peach & pork tacos


Serves 4
1 tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp cayenne pepper
2 garlic cloves, nely chopped
1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil
4 x 140g pork loin medallions
1/2 tsp caster sugar
1 tbs apple cider vinegar
11/2 cups (100g) shredded red cabbage
8 mini tortillas
2 peaches, stones removed, thinly sliced
1/3 cup (80g) creme fraiche
or sour cream
Coriander leaves, to serve

62 delicious.

To make the marinade, combine the


fennel seeds, cayenne pepper, garlic and
oil. Season with salt. Rub over the pork
and set aside for 15 minutes to marinate.
Meanwhile, combine sugar and apple
cider vinegar, then toss with the cabbage
and set aside until ready to serve.
Place a large frypan over medium
heat. Add pork and cook for 4 minutes
each side or until cooked through.
Transfer to a plate and set aside to
rest, loosely covered with foil, for
3 minutes, then thinly slice.
To serve, ll each tortilla with cabbage,
pork and peach. Drizzle over the creme
fraiche and top with coriander leaves.

daily special
dukkah-crusted lamb cutlets
with strawberry couscous
Serves 4
11/2 cups (300g) instant couscous
1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil
12 French-trimmed lamb cutlets
1/4 cup (30g) dukkah
250g punnet strawberries, quartered
1/2 bunch mint, leaves shredded

400g can chickpeas, rinsed, drained


1 tbs white balsamic or
white wine vinegar
Thick Greek-style yoghurt,
to serve
Place the couscous in a large heatproof
bowl, stir through 1 tbs oil and season.
Add 11/2 cups (375ml) boiling water, cover
and set aside for 5 minutes to absorb.

Meanwhile, place remaining 2 tbs oil


in a frypan over medium-high heat. Season
the lamb and cook, in 2 batches, for
2 minutes each side for medium or until
cooked to your liking. Transfer to a plate
and rest, loosely covered with foil, for
2 minutes. Press the lamb in the dukkah.
Add berries, mint, chickpeas and vinegar
to the couscous, then season and toss to
combine. Serve with the lamb and yoghurt.

seafood espetada
(portuguese skewers)
Serves 4-6
2 garlic cloves, nely chopped
2 long red chillies, seeds removed,
nely chopped
2 tsp ground ginger
3 tsp sweet paprika
2 tsp dried oregano
1/3 cup (80ml) olive oil,
plus extra to brush
4 limes, cut into wedges
24 prawns, peeled (tails intact), deveined
300g squid tubes, cut into 3cm strips
400g swordsh llets,
cut into 3cm pieces
4 corn cobs
Flat-leaf parsley leaves, to serve

64 delicious.

If you dont have 12 metal skewers,


soak 12 wooden skewers in cold water
for 30 minutes, then drain. Preheat
a chargrill or barbecue to high.
To make the marinade, combine
the garlic, chilli, ginger, paprika, oregano
and oil, then season.
To make one skewer, thread 1 lime
wedge, 1 prawn, 1 piece of squid and
1 piece of swordsh onto a skewer,
then repeat. Repeat with remaining
skewers, then coat in the marinade.
Brush corn with oil and chargrill, turning,
for 10 minutes, until blistered and tender.
Set aside. Brush chargrill with oil and cook
skewers, in batches, for 2-3 minutes each
side until cooked through.
Slice the corn off the cob, garnish with
parsley and serve with the skewers.

daily special

garlic & ginger eye llet with


quick cucumber & radish pickle
Serves 4
1/4 cup (60ml) apple cider vinegar
11/2 tbs caster sugar
2 tbs grated ginger
2 small Lebanese cucumbers,
halved lengthways, sliced into
ribbons (using a vegetable peeler)
4 radishes, thinly sliced

1 tsp sesame seeds


1 garlic clove, nely chopped
800g beef eye llet,
tied at 3cm intervals
2 tbs olive oil
Rocket leaves, to serve
For the pickle, combine the vinegar,
sugar, 1 tbs ginger and 1 tsp salt in a bowl
with the cucumber, radish and sesame
seeds. Set aside for 30 minutes to pickle.

Preheat oven to 200C. Rub garlic and


remaining 1 tbs ginger over beef, and
season. Heat the oil in a large frypan over
medium-high heat. Cook beef, turning,
for 4-5 minutes until browned. Transfer
to a baking tray and roast in the oven for
15 minutes for medium-rare or until cooked
to your liking. Transfer to a plate and rest,
loosely covered with foil, for 5 minutes.
Slice the beef and serve with rocket
and the cucumber and radish pickle. d.

recipes, photography & styling Katie Quinn Davies

katie quinn davies.

66 delicious.

Queen of
Dim the lights and create the perfect
mood to swoon this Valentines Day
with Katies elegant dinner for two.

Raspberry, prosecco & mint


cocktail (recipe p 71)

Ive never really been one for heading out to


a restaurant on February 14th, opting, more often than
not, to cook at home. Coming from Ireland, I grew up with
Valentines Day falling smack bang in the middle of the
coldest month of the year, but now that I live in Australia,
my worlds literally upside down and I have to think of lighter
fare when planning a special dinner for two in February.
So, rst of is a light and colourful cocktail using prosecco
a wonderful alternative to Champagne. Its lighter, more
afordable and pairs superbly with fresh raspberries and mint.
Valentines Day is as good excuse as any to splurge on
special-occasion ingredients, such as lobster, used as a lling

for tortelloni. I like to use lobster fresh from the sh markets,


but you can substitute prawn its a perfectly good alternative.
It was inevitable steak was going to feature on this menu
(requested by my husband, Mick) so Ive opted for a rib-eye
steak on the bone, served with a lemon, caper and dill butter,
and paired with a beetroot and maple-roasted walnut salad.
Rather than the usual chunky chips, Ive made some oven
baked crisps, and I challenge you not to eat half of them
straight from the tray before serving. For dessert, cardamom
panna cotta, which can be prepared the night before, is
embellished with pistachio praline for efect all you need to
add is a glass of a good sticky wine. Visit: whatkatieate.com.

valentines day is a good excuse


to splurge on special ingredients.

68 delicious.

katie quinn davies.

Lobster & ricotta


tortelloni with prosecco
& tomato sauce

katie quinn davies.

Rib-eye steaks with lemon,


caper & dill butter; beetroot,
blue cheese & maple-roasted
walnut salad; baked salt
& vinegar potato crisps
and thyme kumara crisps.

raspberry, prosecco
& mint cocktail
Makes 2
1/4

cup (55g) caster sugar


125g punnet raspberries
1/4 cup (60ml) vodka
Handful mint leaves, half torn
Small pinch dried chilli akes
1/2 cup (125ml) prosecco or Champagne
Place sugar and 1/4 cup (60ml) water in a
small saucepan over medium heat. Bring
to a simmer and cook for 1-2 minutes until
sugar dissolves. Remove from heat and
cool, then cover and chill until needed.
Whiz half the berries in a food processor
until smooth. Strain, discarding any solids.
Half-ll a cocktail shaker with ice. Add
vodka, torn mint leaves, chilli, raspberry
puree and 2 tbs sugar syrup. Shake well,
then stir in prosecco.
Fill glasses with ice, strain over cocktail
and serve with remaining mint and berries.

lobster & ricotta tortelloni


with prosecco & tomato sauce
Serves 2
2 tsp olive oil
3 vine-ripened tomatoes, chopped
1 tsp caster sugar
50g unsalted butter, chopped
1 cup (250ml) prosecco or Champagne
Tabasco sauce, to taste
Juice of 1/2 lemon
6 wonton wrappers or homemade
pasta dough (recipe follows)
Dill sprigs (optional), to serve
Lobster & ricotta lling
1 tbs olive oil
2 eschalots, very nely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1/2 cup (125ml) prosecco or Champagne
400g cooked lobster meat, chopped
1/3 cup (80g) ricotta
1 egg
Juice of 1/2 lemon
For the lling, heat oil in a frypan over
medium heat. Add eschalot and garlic,
then cook, stirring, for 3-4 minutes until

softened. Add prosecco, then bring to


a simmer and cook for 2 minutes or until
slightly reduced. Add lobster and cook
for a further 1 minute. Transfer mixture
to a food processor. Add ricotta, egg and
lemon juice. Pulse until a coarse paste,
then season. Transfer to a bowl, then
cover and chill until needed.
To make the prosecco and tomato
sauce, heat oil in a saucepan over
medium heat. Add tomato and cook
for 2-3 minutes until slightly softened.
Add sugar and butter, then cook for
2-3 minutes until butter melts. Add
prosecco, then cook for 25 minutes or
until liquid has reduced by half. Remove
from heat and use a stick blender to
process until smooth. Stir in Tabasco
and lemon juice to taste. Season and
keep warm until ready to serve.
If using pasta dough, cut dough into
six 12cm squares. Place 2 tsp lobster lling
in the centre of each wonton wrapper or
pasta square, brush edges with water and
fold into a triangle, pressing to seal and
pushing out as much air as possible. Fold
the 2 corners on the longer side into the
centre and pinch together. Place on a
oured tray and repeat with remaining
wrappers or pasta dough and lling.
Cook tortelloni in a large saucepan of
boiling, salted water for 3-4 minutes until
al dente. Drain, then serve with the sauce
and garnish with dill sprigs, if using.

elastic. Keep rolling the dough through


the settings, reducing the thickness each
time, until 2mm thick. Place pasta on a
our-dusted tray and cover with a tea
towel while you roll remaining dough.

rib-eye steaks with lemon,


caper & dill butter
Serves 2
80g unsalted butter, softened
2 tsp capers, rinsed, drained
Few dill sprigs
Finely grated zest and juice of 1/2 lemon
2 x 350g rib-eye steaks (on the bone)
Olive oil, to drizzle
Baked crisps and beetroot salad
(recipes follow), to serve
Whiz butter, capers, dill, zest and juice in
a food processor until combined. Transfer
to a bowl, then chill until ready to serve.
Heat a chargrill pan over high heat. Pat
steak dry with paper towel, then season
with salt and freshly ground black pepper,
and drizzle with oil.
Cook steaks for 4-5 minutes each side
for medium-rare or until cooked to your
liking. Cover loosely with foil and set
aside to rest for 3-5 minutes.
Serve steaks immediately with
lemon, caper and dill butter, baked
crisps and beetroot salad.

pasta dough

baked salt & vinegar potato


crisps and thyme kumara crisps

Serves 2

Serves 2

200g 00 our* (see Cooks Notes,


p 72) or plain our, sifted
2 eggs

1 each large desiree potato and kumara


(sweet potato), scrubbed, thinly
sliced (using a mandoline)
2 tbs malt vinegar
Olive oil spray
3 thyme sprigs, leaves picked

Whiz our and eggs in a food processor


until mixture comes together in clumps.
Turn out onto a lightly oured work
surface and knead for 2-3 minutes until
smooth. Enclose in plastic wrap and chill
for 15 minutes to rm up.
Divide dough in half, then enclose
1 portion in plastic wrap and set aside.
Start on the thickest setting of your pasta
machine and run the dough through
1-2 times, folding it in half each time until

Preheat the oven to 180C and line


2 large baking trays with baking paper.
Arrange the potato slices in a single
layer on 1 baking tray. Brush with vinegar,
spray with olive oil and sprinkle generously
with crushed sea salt akes.
Place kumara slices on the remaining
tray, spray with a little olive oil, then
delicious. 71

season with crushed sea salt akes, freshly


ground black pepper and thyme leaves.
Bake, turning once and rotating trays
halfway through cooking, for 35 minutes
or until crisp and golden, then serve.

beetroot, blue cheese &


maple-roasted walnut salad
Serves 2
2 beetroots, peeled, cut into wedges
2 tsp balsamic vinegar,
plus extra to drizzle
2 tsp olive oil, plus extra to drizzle
3 thyme sprigs, leaves picked
3/4 cup (75g) walnuts
1 tbs maple syrup
75g mild blue cheese (such as
gorgonzola dolce), crumbled
Watercress, to serve
Preheat the oven to 180C and line a
large baking tray with foil. Place beetroot,
vinegar, oil and thyme in a bowl. Season,
then toss to coat. Place on baking tray

and roast for 50 minutes or until cooked


through. Cool completely on tray.
Meanwhile, line a separate baking tray
with baking paper. Toss walnuts in maple
syrup, then roast for 12 minutes or until
golden. Cool completely on tray.
Arrange watercress on a serving plate,
top with beetroot, maple-roasted walnuts
and cheese. Drizzle with a little extra
oil and balsamic, then serve.

cardamom panna cotta


with rosewater syrup
and pistachio praline
Makes 2
Begin this recipe a day ahead.
2 /3

cup (165ml) thickened cream


cup (165ml) milk
1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar
3 cardamom pods, bruised
1 titanium-strength gelatine leaf*
(see Cooks Notes)
Dried rose petals* (optional
see Cooks Notes), to serve
2 /3

Rosewater syrup
1/3 cup (75g) caster sugar
1 tsp rosewater* (see Cooks Notes)
1-2 drops pink food colouring
Pistachio praline
1/2 cup (75g) unsalted pistachio
kernels
1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar
Combine the cream, milk, sugar and
cardamom in a small saucepan over
medium heat. Bring to a simmer, then
cook, stirring, for 2-3 minutes for the
avours to infuse. Remove from heat.
Soak the gelatine in cold water for
5 minutes to soften. Squeeze excess water

72 delicious.

from gelatine, then stir into cream mixture


until melted and combined. Stand the
cream mixture for 10 minutes, then strain,
discarding solids. Divide mixture between
two 1 cup (250ml) serving glasses, then
cover and chill overnight to set.
For the syrup, combine sugar,
rosewater and 1/4 cup (60ml) water in a
small saucepan over medium heat. Bring
to the boil, then reduce heat to low and
cook, stirring, for 1 minute or until sugar
dissolves. Swirl through food colouring.
Remove from heat and allow to cool
completely. Pour over panna cottas,
then chill for 1 hour or until syrup sets.
Meanwhile, for the praline, line a baking
tray with baking paper, then place the
pistachios in the centre. Combine sugar
and 2 tbs water in a small saucepan over
medium-low heat and stir until sugar
dissolves. Increase heat to medium-high,
bring to the boil, then cook, without
stirring, for 12 minutes or until golden.
Immediately pour over the pistachios,
then chill for 1 hour or until set.
Break the praline into shards, then
place in a small food processor and
pulse until crumbs. Sprinkle over the
panna cottas and top with rose petals,
if using, then serve. d.

Cooks Note
* 00 is a super-ne Italian our grade
*

used to make pasta, from gourmet


food shops; substitute plain our.
Gelatine leaves are available from
gourmet food shops and selected
supermarkets. Check the packet
for setting instructions.
Dried rose petals and rosewater
add a oral note and are available
from Middle Eastern shops, delis
and selected gourmet food shops.

katie quinn davies.

Cardamom panna cotta


with rosewater syrup
and pistachio praline

Macadamia biscuit
ice cream sandwiches.
Opposite: homemade
lemonade ice pops.

74 delicious.

recipes , photography & styling The Food depT.

Colourful, refreshing and packed with bright tropical


avours, youll make these gorgeous desserts from
Sydney blog The Food Dept. all summer long.

wicked.

wicked.
passionfruit & white
chocolate eclairs
Makes 16
2 cups (500ml) milk
1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped
3 eggs, lightly beaten,
plus 6 extra egg yolks
1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar
1 cup (150g) plain our
60g unsalted butter
Pulp from 3 large passionfruit,
1 tbs strained passionfruit
juice (from 2 passionfruit)
1 cup (150g) icing sugar, sifted
200g white chocolate, melted
1 tbs light olive oil
To make the passionfruit custard, place
milk and vanilla pod and seeds in a
saucepan over low heat and bring to a
simmer. Combine the egg yolks, sugar and
1/4 cup (35g) our in a bowl and whisk until
light and creamy. Discard the vanilla pod
and gradually pour the hot milk mixture
into the egg mixture, whisking constantly
until combined. Return custard to the
saucepan over low heat and cook, whisking
constantly, for 8-10 minutes until thickened.
Transfer to a bowl, cover the surface with

76 delicious.

plastic wrap to prevent a skin forming


and chill for 2-3 hours.
Preheat oven to 230C. Place butter and
3/4 cup (185ml) water in a saucepan over
medium heat until the butter has melted.
Bring to the boil. Add the remaining
3/4 cup (110g) our, stirring constantly with
a wooden spoon for 2-3 minutes until
the mixture forms a smooth ball. Set
dough aside to cool slightly.
Place dough in a large bowl, add beaten
egg, a little at a time, beating well with
electric beaters after each addition until
smooth. Spoon into a piping bag tted
with a large star nozzle and pipe sixteen
8cm lengths onto a baking paper-lined
baking tray. Sprinkle eclairs with water and
bake for 7 minutes. Reduce oven to 180C
and cook for a further 20-25 minutes until
golden. Pierce one short side of each eclair
with a skewer and set aside to dry and cool.
Remove custard from fridge, fold
through the passionfruit pulp and return
to fridge for 1 hour to set. Place custard in
a piping bag tted with a plain 1cm nozzle.
Pipe custard into the holes in the eclairs.
To make the passionfruit icing, combine
the icing sugar and passionfruit juice
in a bowl and stir until smooth. Spoon into
a piping bag tted with a ne nozzle and
set aside. Combine the white chocolate
and oil in a bowl, and stir until smooth.
Dip the top of each eclair into the white
chocolate and place on a sheet of baking
paper. Drizzle the passionfruit icing, back
and forth across the eclairs, then run a
bamboo skewer up and down the length
of the eclairs to create a marbling effect.
Allow the icing to set, then serve.

fruit skewers with gingersnap


crumbs and coconut cream
Serves 4
You can use any fruit select varieties
with contrasting colours and avours.
1/2

cup (125ml) thickened cream


cup (125ml) coconut cream
1/2 cup coconut sugar
*
(see Cook's Notes, p 81)
125g gingersnap biscuits
1 each mango, kiwifruit and banana
2 star fruit
1 tamarillo or peach
1/2 papaya
1/2 small pineapple
1/2

Soak 12 wooden skewers in water for


15 minutes. Combine thickened cream,
coconut cream and 1 tsp coconut sugar
in a bowl and whisk until the cream has
thickened. Chill until ready to serve.
Whiz the biscuits in a food processor
until ne crumbs, then set aside until
ready to serve.
Slice the fruit into equal-sized pieces
and thread onto skewers. Place the
skewers on a baking tray lined with foil
and sprinkle the fruit with half the
remaining coconut sugar.
Using a blowtorch, brulee the fruit until
the sugar has melted and caramelised.
(Alternatively, place skewers under a hot
grill, turning, for 4 minutes or until
caramelised.) Sprinkle the remaining
coconut sugar over the fruit and brulee
again until a deep golden colour.
Serve skewers immediately with
coconut cream and gingersnap crumbs.

Passionfruit & white


chocolate eclairs

black sticky rice with


chilli caramel mango
Serves 6
Begin this recipe 1 day ahead.
11/2 cups (300g) black sticky rice*
(see Cook's Notes, p 81)
3 pandan leaves* (see Cook's Notes,
p 81), tied in a knot
1 cup (270g) nely grated dark palm
sugar, plus 2 tbs extra
3 large mangoes
1/4 tsp dried chilli akes
1 cup (250ml) coconut cream

78 delicious.

Soak the rice in cold water overnight.


Drain and rinse under cold running
water until the water runs clear.
Combine the rice, 3 cups (370ml) water,
pandan leaves and a pinch of salt in a large
saucepan and bring to a simmer over low
heat. Simmer for 35 minutes or until the
water has been absorbed and the rice is
tender. Remove from the heat, cover and
leave to steam for a further 15 minutes.
Discard the pandan leaves.
Combine the palm sugar and 1/3 cup
(80ml) boiling water in a heatproof bowl
and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Stir
three quarters of the palm sugar syrup
through the rice, reserving the remaining
to serve. Cover the rice to keep warm.
Cut the cheeks from the mangoes and
sprinkle with chilli and extra palm sugar.
Drizzle the rice with coconut cream and
remaining palm sugar syrup, then serve
with mango cheeks.

wicked.

Fruit skewers with


gingersnap crumbs
and coconut cream

macadamia biscuit
ice cream sandwiches
Makes 10
125g unsalted butter,
at room temperature
2 /3 cup (150g) raw sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 egg
3/4 cup (110g) plain our
1/2 tsp bicarbonate of soda
11/4 cups (110g) rolled oats
1 cup (150g) salted macadamia nuts,
coarsely chopped
Selection of store-bought avoured
ice cream (we used coconut,
passionfruit and strawberry)
Preheat oven to 180C. Combine butter
and sugar in a bowl. Using electric
beaters, beat until thick and pale. Add
vanilla and egg, then beat until combined.
Sift together the our and bicarbonate
of soda. Add the our mixture, oats and
macadamia nuts to the creamed butter
and sugar, and stir to combine.
Line 2 baking tray with baking paper
and place tablespoonfuls of mixture on
the trays, attening to 1/2 cm thick.
Bake for 15 minutes or until golden
and crisp. Allow to cool on trays.
To serve, sandwich the ice cream
between the biscuits. Serve immediately
or keep in the freezer.

homemade lemonade ice pops


Makes 8
You will need eight 1/3 cup (80ml)
ice block moulds for this recipe.
1/2

cup (110g) caster sugar


cup (125ml) lemon juice
11/2 cups roughly chopped tropical fruit
(cut to t your moulds such as
papaya, pineapple, mango, star fruit,
lychee, kiwifruit and passionfruit)

1/2

Combine the sugar and 1 cup (250ml)


water in a saucepan over low heat, stirring
until the sugar has dissolved. Remove
from the heat and set aside to cool.
Once cooled, add the lemon juice.
Divide the fruit among the ice block
moulds, pressing the cut surfaces against
the sides. Pour over the homemade
lemonade, then cover and place in the
freezer for at least 6 hours or overnight
until frozen and set.
Remove the ice blocks from the
moulds to serve.

hummingbird cake
with tofee pecans
Serves 8-10
1kg pineapple, peeled
180g softened unsalted butter
11/4 cups (275g) raw caster sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
2 eggs
1 large ripe banana, mashed
1 cup (90g) shredded coconut
2 /3 cup (80g) pecans, roughly chopped
2 cups (300g) self-raising our, sifted
1 tsp ground cinnamon
Cream cheese icing
2 x 250g packets softened cream cheese
80g softened unsalted butter
11/3 cups (200g) icing sugar
Toffee pecans
1 cup (220g) raw caster sugar
1 cup (140g) pecans

80 delicious.

Preheat oven to 100C. Cut 10 x 2mm-thick


slices from the pineapple. Arrange in a
single layer on a baking paper-lined baking
tray and bake for 1 hour. Turn slices over
and return to oven for a further 1 hour or
until pineapple is dry. Remove from oven
and transfer to a wire rack to cool.
Core the remaining piece of pineapple
and roughly chop. Use a food processor
to whiz the pineapple until just crushed.
You will need about 250g crushed
pineapple for the cake.
Grease and line two 20cm round cake
pans and increase the oven to 180C.
Using electric beaters, beat butter and
sugar together until combined. Add
the vanilla and eggs, 1 at a time, beating
well after each addition. Add the crushed
pineapple, banana, coconut and pecans,
then stir to combine. Add our, cinnamon
and a pinch of salt, then stir to combine.
Divide the mixture between the cake
pans and bake for 35-40 minutes until
a skewer inserted into the centre comes
out clean. Allow cakes to stand in the
pans for 15 minutes to cool slightly, then
transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.
To make the icing, place the cream
cheese, butter and half the icing sugar
in a bowl and beat with electric beaters
for 5 minutes. Add the remaining icing
sugar and beat for a further 3 minutes
or until light and uffy. Chill until needed.
To make the toffee pecans, combine the
sugar with 1/4 cup (60ml) water in a small
saucepan over medium heat. Stir until the
sugar dissolves. Bring to the boil and cook,
without stirring, for 10 minutes or until
golden. Using a skewer, dip each pecan
into the toffee. Drain off excess toffee and
place the pecans on a baking paper-lined
baking tray and allow to set.
To assemble, secure one cake to a
serving plate with a little icing. Spread
1 cup icing on the cake, then top with the
second cake. Spread remaining icing over
the top and sides of the cake. Decorate
with dried pineapple and toffee pecans. d.
Visit: thefooddept.blogspot.com.

wicked.
Cook's Note
* Coconut sugar is extracted

from the bud of a coconut


palm and has a caramel
avour. It's available from
supermarkets and health
food shops; substitute
brown sugar.
Black sticky (glutinous rice)
and pandan leaves are
available from Asian grocers.

Hummingbird cake
with toffee pecans

Point and shoot

If youre looking to start the new year on a lighter note, theres


plenty of inspiration to be found online. Heres our round-up
of the best vegetarian and wholefood blogs out there from
a chic Scandi stylist to a creative Californian couple, these
bloggers are bringing healthy and exciting vego fare to the mix.

Strawberry & rhubarb ripple frozen


yoghurt (recipe p 88). Below (from left):
David Frenkiel and Luise Vindahl of
Green Kitchen Stories with daughter Elsa;
grilled haloumi and peaches with dukkah
(recipe p 86); Sarah Britton of My New Roots.

82 delicious.

hot blogs.

Spiced millet pilaf


with beetroot,
feta and mint

hot blogs.

SPROUTED KITCHEN
This blog by Californian Sara Forte
and her photographer husband, Hugh,
documents their creative take on
wholefoods. Their beautifully styled
recipes make the most of seasonal
ingredients allowing the quality and
avour of the produce to speak for
itself. Their book The Sprouted Kitchen:
A Tastier Take on Whole Foods (Random
House, $34.95) is a mostly vegetarian
journey into eating well and Sara and
Hughs love of sharing food with family
and friends. Visit: sproutedkitchen.com.

ranchero breakfast tostadas


Serves 4
8 small corn tortillas
Extra virgin olive oil, to brush
1 tbs coconut oil* (see Cooks Notes,
p 88) or unsalted butter
8 eggs
1 cup (120g) grated cheddar
2 avocados, halved, thinly sliced
1/3 cup (20g) chopped coriander
1 lime, cut into wedges
Hot sauce, to serve (optional)
Black bean mash
400g can black beans (frijoles),
rinsed, drained
1/4 cup (60g) light sour cream
2 spring onions, nely chopped
1 tsp ground cumin
For the black bean mash, place the
beans in a saucepan over low heat.
Add sour cream, spring onion, cumin,
1/2 tsp salt, 1 tsp freshly ground black
pepper and 1/4 cup (60ml) water, then
coarsely mash with a fork until heated
through. Remove from heat and cover
to keep warm.
Preheat the oven to 200C. Brush the
tortillas with oil and place on a baking
paper-lined baking tray. Bake, turning
once, for 6-8 minutes until golden.

84 delicious.

Place the coconut oil in a frypan over


medium heat. In 2 batches, crack the
eggs, 1 at a time, into the pan. Cook for
5 minutes for soft yolks or until cooked
to your liking.
To serve, top each tortilla with the
bean mash, a sprinkling of cheese,
1 egg, some avocado and coriander.
Serve 2 tostadas per person with lime
wedges and hot sauce, if using.

MY DARLING LEMON THYME


New Zealand-born, Perth-based
blogger Emma Galloway worked as a
chef for many years before becoming
a mother. Soon after, she discovered
that her family suffered from gluten and
lactose intolerances. With her foodie
know-how, she took on the challenge
of creating vegetarian, gluten-free
dishes for her family using fresh,
seasonal avours that she shares with
the world through her sweetly named
blog. Visit: mydarlinglemonthyme.com

spiced millet pilaf with


beetroot, feta and mint
Serves 6
1 bunch baby beetroot,
leaves reserved
1/4 cup (60g) ghee* (see Cooks
Notes, p 88) or olive oil
2 tsp black mustard seeds
2 tsp yellow mustard seeds
2 tsp cumin seeds
1 large onion, nely chopped
2 garlic cloves, nely chopped
11/2 long green chillies,
nely chopped
3-4 curry leaves
1 tsp ground turmeric
11/2 cups (315g) hulled millet*
(see Cooks Notes, p 88)
1/2 cup (65g) cashew nuts, toasted,
roughly chopped
Coriander and mint leaves, feta
and lemon wedges, to serve

Mint & beetroot leaf pesto


Trimmed leaves from the baby
beetroots, washed
1 cup (60g) packed mint leaves
1/2 cup (65g) cashew nuts, toasted
1/2 long green chilli
1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup (60ml) lemon juice
Place beetroots into a saucepan, cover
with water and bring to the boil over
high heat. Reduce heat to low and
simmer for 20-25 minutes until tender.
Remove from the heat, drain and set
aside until cool enough to handle.
Peel the beetroot and cut into pieces.
Place ghee in a large saucepan over
medium heat. Add the mustard and
cumin seeds. When the seeds start to
pop, add the onion and cook, stirring,
for 1-2 minutes until tender. Add the
garlic, chilli, curry leaves and turmeric,
then cook, stirring, for a further
30 seconds or until fragrant. Stir in the
millet and 1/2 tsp salt, then cook, stirring,
for 1-2 minutes to toast the grains. Pour
in 3 cups (750ml) water (it will splatter,
so take care). Stir to combine and cover
with a lid. Bring to the boil, then reduce
heat to low and simmer, covered,
without stirring, for 20 minutes. Remove
from the heat, leave the lid on and set
aside for 5 minutes before ufng up
the millet with a fork. Cover to keep
warm until ready to serve.
Meanwhile, place all the pesto
ingredients in a small food processor
and whiz until a smooth paste. Season.
To make the pesto thinner, simply add
a little more lemon juice and olive oil
until its the desired consistency. Set
aside until ready to serve.
Stir the cashews, coriander and
mint through the pilaf.
To serve, spoon pilaf onto plates, top
with beetroot, crumble over the feta
and drizzle with pesto. Serve with extra
lemon wedges to squeeze over.

Above (from left): spiced


millet pilaf with beetroot,
feta and mint; Emma
Galloway of My Darling
Lemon Thyme. Below
(from left): Sara and
Hugh Forte of
Sprouted Kitchen;
ranchero breakfast
tostadas.

hot blogs.

Cutting down on carbs? Replace regular rice


stick noodles with this lighter zucchini
variety and serve in a fragrant coconut broth.

My new roots
Canadian Sarah Britton trained as a
nutritionist and chef, so its no wonder
that holistic, vegetarian cooking that
appeals to omnivores is the focus for
this self-confessed wholefood lover.
She lives in Copenhagen, Denmark, with
her husband and new baby where she
also nds the time to work on her rst
cookbook. Stay tuned for more recipes
for busy mums. Visit: mynewroots.org.

grilled haloumi and


peaches with dukkah
Serves 4 as a starter
4 ripe peaches, cut into wedges
350g haloumi, cut into cubes
2 tbs maple syrup
Lemon juice and olive oil, to serve
1/2 small bunch mint leaves, shredded
Dukkah
11/2 tbs cumin seeds
1 tbs coriander seeds
1 tbs whole black peppercorns
1 cup (150g) hazelnuts, toasted,
skins removed
1/2 cup (75g) sesame seeds, toasted
Soak 20 wooden skewers in cold water
for 1 hour. Drain.
To make the dukkah, place the cumin
and coriander seeds in a dry frypan over
medium heat and cook, stirring, for
2 minutes or until fragrant. Place in
a mortar and pestle with peppercorns

86 delicious.

and grind until ne. Place hazelnuts and


sesame seeds in a small food processor
and pulse to roughly chop. Transfer to a
large bowl with the spices and 1 tsp salt,
then stir to combine.
To make the skewers, preheat a
barbecue or chargrill on medium-high.
Alternately thread the peaches and
haloumi onto the skewers, then cook,
turning, for 5-6 minutes until the
peaches have charred slightly and the
cheese has browned. Transfer to a
serving platter. Drizzle with maple
syrup, a squeeze of lemon juice and
a little olive oil, then top with mint
and sprinkle with dukkah.

Love and LeMons


Texan couple Jeanine Donofrio and
Jack Mathews are the creative minds
behind this blog. Jeanine, graphic
designer and lemon-obsessed foodie,
creates the colourful recipes, while Jack,
a self-declared cheese lover, is the
website tech-guy. Together they aim
to excite readers about how to make
vegetable-centric, healthy food taste
amazing. Many of their recipes are food
allergy-friendly with options for vegan or
gluten-free. Visit: loveandlemons.com.

zucchini & coconut noodles


Serves 2
2 roma tomatoes, halved,
seeds removed, chopped
2 cups (70g) baby spinach leaves

1 cup (35g) basil leaves


3 zucchinis, thinly sliced (using a
mandoline), cut into long, thin strips
1 cup (35g) coriander leaves
Crushed roasted peanuts, to serve
Sriracha sauce* (see Cooks Notes,
p 88), to serve
Coconut broth
1 tbs coconut oil*
(see Cooks Notes, p 81)
3 spring onions, nely chopped,
plus extra to serve
1 tsp nely grated ginger
1 long red chilli, nely chopped
2 kafr lime leaves
1 lemongrass stalk (inner core only),
bruised
1 can (400ml) coconut milk
2 tsp tamari
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
Pinch coconut sugar or brown sugar
To make broth, place the coconut oil
in a saucepan over low heat. Add the
spring onion, ginger, chilli, kafr lime
leaves and lemongrass, then cook for
1 minute. Add coconut milk and tamari,
then simmer, stirring occasionally, for
20 minutes for avours to infuse. Add
lime zest and juice, and sugar to taste.
Add the tomato, spinach and basil
to the broth, then stir until just wilted.
Remove broth from heat, discard
lemongrass, then add zucchini. Serve
immediately topped with coriander
and peanuts, and sriracha on the side.

Clockwise from top left: Jeanine Donofrio of Love and


Lemons; zucchini & coconut noodles; grilled haloumi
and peaches with dukkah; Sarah of My New Roots.

hot blogs.

Nutty chocolate ricotta cups and a tart fruit-laced


frozen yoghurt make ideal gluten-free desserts.

scandi Home
Maria Laitinen the blogger and stylist
behind Scandi Home was born in
Finland and moved to Sydney in 2005.
She is passionate about Scandinavian
cuisine and design, and her style
is heavily inuenced by her Nordic
background. As well as travel stories
and Scandi-chic inspiration for your
home, youll nd wholesome recipes
and many healthy baking ideas.
Visit: scandifoodie.blogspot.com.

chocolate & ricotta


cups with walnut crust
Makes 10
You will need a silicone mini-mufn
mould, from kitchenware shops.
1 cup (100g) walnuts
1 tbs almond meal
1 egg, plus 1 eggwhite
50g dark chocolate
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tbs honey
100g ricotta
Finely grated zest of 2 oranges
Icing sugar, to serve
Preheat the oven to 170C.
Place the walnuts in a food processor
and whiz until they resemble coarse
breadcrumbs. Add the almond meal
and eggwhite, then pulse 2-3 times
to combine. Take tablespoonfuls
mixture and press into the bases and
sides of ten 11/2 tbs (30ml) capacity
silicone mini-mufn moulds.
To make the lling, place the
chocolate, vanilla and honey in a

88 delicious.

heatproof bowl set over a saucepan


of simmering water (dont let the bowl
touch the water) and stir until melted
and combined, then set aside to cool.
Combine ricotta, egg, cooled
chocolate mixture and half the orange
zest in a bowl, then stir until smooth.
Spoon the lling into the walnut cups.
Bake for 20 minutes or until puffed
and just set, then transfer to a wire rack
to cool. Dust with icing sugar and top
with remaining orange zest to serve.

GReen KiTcHen sToRies


Health-conscious Swedes David
and Luise are the co-creators of
this beautifully photographed,
award-winning blog. Be inspired by
the vegetarian food they create in
their idyllic Stockholm home, including
child-friendly dishes for daughter Elsa.
Green Kitchen Stories is an intimate
glimpse into the way this young family
live, eat and entertain, and with their
book, The Green Kitchen (Hardie Grant,
$49.95), and two apps, one focusing
on healthy desserts, David and Luise
are successfully spreading the green
message. Visit: greenkitchenstories.com.

strawberry & rhubarb


ripple frozen yoghurt

Place the rhubarb, strawberry, vanilla


pod and seeds, and 1/3 cup (120g)
honey in a saucepan. Cover and bring
to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and
simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the
vanilla pod and use a fork to mash the
fruit to a puree. Place in the fridge for
1 hour to chill.
Combine the yoghurt, the remaining
60g honey and three-quarters of the
fruit puree in a large bowl. Pour the
yoghurt mixture into an ice-cream
machine and churn according to
manufacturers instructions.
(Alternatively, pour mixture into a
shallow container and freeze for 2
hours or until frozen at edges. Remove
and beat with electric beaters. Return
to container and refreeze. Repeat 2 or
3 times.) Swirl through the rest of the
fruit puree so you get a ripple effect.
Pour the frozen yoghurt into a
container and freeze for 3 hours.
Place frozen yoghurt in the fridge
20 minutes before serving to allow
it to soften to scooping consistency. d.

Cooks Note
* Coconut oil is extracted from the

Makes about 1L

2 cups (220g) chopped rhubarb


2 x 250g punnets strawberries,
coarsely chopped
1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped
1/2 cup (180g) honey
2 cups (560g) Greek-style yoghurt

*
*

kernel of matured coconuts. Its


available from health food shops
and selected supermarkets.
Ghee (claried butter) is from
supermarkets; substitute olive oil.
Hulled millet is a gluten-free grain
available from health food shops
and selected supermarkets.
Sriracha is a hot Thai chilli sauce
available from Asian food shops;
substitute sweet chilli sauce.

From top: Maria Laitinen of Scandi Home;


chocolate & ricotta cups with walnut crust;
David and Luise of Green Kitchen Stories;
strawberry & rhubarb ripple frozen yoghurt.

do the
char char

We grilled Colin Holt, chef and co-owner


of Hudson Meats in Sydney and Melbourne,
to nd out how the experts throw the
perfect summer barbecue.

90 delicious.

guest chef.

Slow-cooked oyster blade


steak with tomato relish

slow-cooked oyster blade


steak with tomato relish
Serves 6-8
1 tbs smoked paprika (pimenton)
2 tbs brown sugar
1 tsp cayenne pepper
1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil
1.5kg oyster blade steak, trimmed
1/2 cup (125ml) red wine
1L (4 cups) beef stock
Roast potatoes and watercress
sprigs, to serve
Tomato relish
(125ml) tomato sauce (ketchup)
400g can chopped tomatoes
1/4 cup (60g) brown sugar
2 tbs white wine vinegar
2 tbs Worcestershire sauce
Finely grated zest of 1/2 orange
1 tbs Tabasco sauce

Colin Holt of Hudson Meats.


Opposite: skirt steak with
chargrilled vegetables.

skirt steak with


chargrilled vegetables
Serves 4
6 echalots, nely chopped
300ml verjuice* (see Cooks Notes, p 95)
1/4 cup (60ml) white wine vinegar
1 thyme sprig
1L (4 cups) veal stock* (see Cooks
Notes, p 95) or beef stock
1/2 cup (80g) sultanas
2 x 500g skirt steaks
Olive oil, to brush
Flat-leaf parsley leaves, to serve
Chargrilled vegetables
4 zucchinis, sliced lengthways
2 red capsicums,
sliced lengthways
1 red onion, cut into wedges
Olive oil, to brush

92 delicious.

Combine the eschalot, verjuice, white


wine vinegar and thyme in a saucepan
over medium-high heat. Season with
freshly ground black pepper, then cook,
skimming any impurities from the surface,
for 15-20 minutes until slightly reduced.
Add the stock and cook for a further
15 minutes or until thickened and reduced
by half. Add sultanas, then remove the
pan from the heat. Keep warm.
Meanwhile, preheat a barbecue or
chargrill pan to medium-high. Brush
steaks with oil and season. Chargrill,
turning, for 8 minutes for medium-rare
or until cooked to your liking. Rest,
loosely covered with foil, for 5 minutes.
Brush vegetables with oil and season.
Chargrill, turning, for 5 minutes or until
charred and cooked through.
Thinly slice steaks and serve with
vegetables, parsley and eschalot sauce.

Preheat the oven to 130C and preheat


a barbecue or chargrill pan to high.
Combine paprika, sugar, cayenne
pepper and oil in a bowl. Season, then
add oyster blade steak and turn to coat.
Chargrill, turning, for 6-7 minutes until
charred and browned. Transfer to a
roasting pan over medium heat. Add the
wine and stock. Bring to a simmer, then
cover with baking paper and foil. Roast,
turning after 2 hours, for 4 hours or until
tender. Remove from pan and rest, loosely
covered with foil, for 10 minutes.
For the tomato relish, place all the
ingredients and 1/2 cup (125ml) cooking
liquid from the meat in a saucepan over
medium heat. Bring to the boil and cook,
stirring, for 10 minutes or until reduced
and thickened.
Slice steak and serve with roast
potatoes, watercress and tomato relish.

ReCiPeS COlin HOlT LoCATion PhoTogRAPhy Paul RaeSide/livingeTC/iPC + SyndiCaTiOn


PoRTRAiT & Food PhoTogRAPhy vaneSSa leviS STyLing BeRni SMiTHieS

1/2 cup

guest chef.

guest chef.

lamb is a rich meat,


so a little lemon zest
or juice helps balance
out the favours.

Barbecued
lamb racks

barbecued lamb racks


Serves 4
You will need a lidded barbecue
for this recipe.
2 tbs trufe oil*
(see Cooks Notes)
1 bunch at-leaf parsley, chopped
1 cup (250ml) olive oil, plus extra
to brush
1 tbs sweet paprika
Finely grated zest of 2 lemons,
plus wedges to serve
4 x 375g forequarter lamb racks*
(see Cooks Notes), trimmed
1 bunch asparagus
250g punnet vine-ripened cherry
tomatoes
To make the marinade, combine trufe oil,
parsley, olive oil, paprika and lemon zest
in a bowl. Season lamb, then add and turn
to coat. Cover and chill for at least 2 hours
or overnight to marinate.
Preheat a barbecue (with a lid) or
chargrill pan to medium heat. Drain lamb,
then grill, with the lid closed, turning, for
20 minutes for medium or until cooked
to your liking. Remove and rest, loosely
covered with foil, for 10 minutes.
Brush asparagus and tomatoes with
oil, season, then grill over medium heat
for 4 minutes or until slightly charred.
Slice lamb racks, then serve with
asparagus, tomatoes and lemon wedges.

toulouse sausages
with frisee salad
Serves 4-6
You will need 4 long metal
skewers for this recipe.
2 x 500g spiral Toulouse sausages*
(see Cooks Notes)
Olive oil, to brush
1 frisee (curly endive), roughly torn
1/2 bunch spring onions,
thinly sliced on an angle
2 soft-boiled eggs, halved
Chargrilled sourdough, to serve

Toulouse
sausages with
frisee salad

Mustard vinaigrette
1 tbs wholegrain Dijon mustard
1/3 cup (80ml) olive oil
1 tbs verjuice* (see Cooks Notes)
or white wine vinegar
1 garlic clove, crushed
Preheat a barbecue or chargrill pan to
medium-high heat. Using 2 metal skewers
for each sausage spiral, spear them on the
diagonal to hold them in place. Brush with
oil, then cook for 5 minutes each side
or until charred and cooked through.
For the vinaigrette, whisk all ingredients
with 1 tbs warm water in a bowl. Season
to taste and set aside.
Place the frisee and spring onion in
a bowl, then toss to combine. Top with
egg and drizzle over the vinaigrette.
Serve sausages with frisee salad and
chargrilled sourdough.

Cooks Note
* Verjuice (unripe grape juice, used

*
*

in similar ways to lemon juice or


vinegar), veal stock (substitute beef
stock) and trufe oil (substitute extra
virgin olive oil) are all available from
gourmet food shops and delis.
Toulouse sausages are available
from selected butchers, or ask your
butcher to unlink sausages and form
a coil; substitute pork sausages.
Forequarter lamb racks are
available from butchers; substitute
French-trimmed lamb racks.
Spatchcocks are young chickens,
available from selected butchers and
specialty poultry shops. To buttery
spatchcocks, cut out backbones using
poultry scissors, then atten birds
with the palm of your hand. Or ask
your butcher to buttery them.
delicious. 95

guest chef.

try a variety of beef cuts, such as


brisket, skirt and oyster blade steak,
for different textures and favours.
spatchcock with tarragon
& garlic butter
Serves 4
You will need a lidded barbecue and
8 long metal skewers for this recipe.
3 garlic cloves, crushed
250g softened unsalted butter
1 bunch tarragon,
leaves chopped
Juice of 1 lemon
4 x 500g spatchcocks, butteried*
(see Cooks Notes, p 95)
Olive oil, to brush
Green bean, olive and fennel salad
(recipe follows), to serve
Combine the garlic and butter in
a small food processor and whiz
to a paste. Add the tarragon and
lemon juice, then season and pulse
a few times to combine.
Carefully run your hand under the
skin of the spatchcock breast and thighs
to separate the skin from the esh, being
careful not to tear the skin. Rub the
tarragon and garlic butter into the breast
and thigh meat, under the skin. Using
2 skewers for each spatchcock, spear each
bird on the diagonal from the wing to the
opposite thigh, to ensure the birds hold
their shape during cooking. Rub any
leftover butter over the spatchcock skin.
Preheat a barbecue (with a lid)
to medium-high heat. Brush each
spatchcock with olive oil and place,
skin-side down, on the grill. Barbecue for
5 minutes or until the skin is golden. Turn,
being careful not to break the skin, then

96 delicious.

reduce the heat to medium. Close lid


and cook for a further 20 minutes or until
cooked through. (To test if spatchcocks
are cooked through, the juices should run
clear when the thickest part of the thigh
is pierced with a skewer.) Remove from
the heat and rest, loosely covered with
foil, for 10 minutes.
Remove skewers from spatchcocks
then serve with the green bean, olive
and fennel salad.

green bean, olive


& fennel salad
Serves 4 as a side
500g green beans, trimmed
1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil
2 tbs red wine vinegar
1 packet atbread crisps
(we used Lavosh crackers)
1 small fennel bulb, thinly sliced
(using a mandoline)
200g Ligurian olives or other
small black olives
1/2 bunch at-leaf parsley,
leaves picked
Cook the beans in a saucepan of boiling
salted water for 2 minutes. Drain and
refresh in a bowl of iced water.
Whisk the olive oil and vinegar together
in a bowl. Season, then set aside.
Break the atbread into small pieces,
then combine in a bowl with the fennel,
olives, parsley and drained beans.
Drizzle dressing over the salad, then
gently toss to combine. Serve salad with
the spatchcocks. d.

Colins barbeCue tips


The chef of Sydneys former
2-hatted Bistro Pave, co-owner of
Hudson Meats (visit: hudsonmeats.
com.au) now with stores in
Sydney and Melbourne and
delicious. Produce Awards expert
panellist shares his barbecue tips.
* Generally try to barbecue on
medium-high heat, around 190C.
too low a temperature and the
meat will stew, too high, and
it will burn. always allow the
barbecue to preheat before using.
* bring meat to room temperature
before cooking, this allows the
meat to cook evenly.
* Dont play with your meat! turning
meat constantly means that you
are taking it on and off the heat
and leads to an uneven cook. i turn
my steak no more than three times.
* Dont be tempted to cut into steak
to check if its done, as you will lose
precious juices that make the meat
tender when resting. instead, press
the centre of the steak; it should
spring back for medium-rare.
* rest cooked meat, as this allows
the muscle bres to relax and the
meat to maintain moisture and
avour. rest prime cuts, such as
t-bone, sirloin and scotch llet,
for 10 minutes. larger cuts need
a longer resting time. rest meat
in a warm spot on the side of the
barbecue or in a low oven.

Spatchcock with tarragon


& garlic butter; green
bean, olive & fennel salad.

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mozzarella; chilli prawn
with zucchini and pesto.

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Jamies outdoor cooking special and Fresh asian-inspired salads

99

ROASTED FRUIT

fun
i the
ovn
If you have an outdoor woodfired oven, it's time
to think beyond pizzas! To get you started, Jamie
shares some brilliant ideas for feasts cooked alfresco
that you can also make in a regular oven.

Recipes Jamie Oliver

Styling Ginny Rolfe

Photography David Loftus

jamies diary

101

oodfired ovens have


become fashionable,
but you may wonder
what it is about
them thats so
enticing? Tats easy first up, they
look amazing. Secondly, theres
something hypnotising about
watching the open flames, with
whatever youre cooking ticking
away in the background. Tey also
have a really dry heat, so you get
an incredible rendering of fat and
crisping of skin on meat thats hard
to recreate elsewhere. And lastly, you
get that subtle, invisible seasoning
from the wood that youre burning
and, of course, the smoke.
When you think about it, it was
only 60-odd years ago when the
whole scenario of a modern oven
became available. For thousands
of years, us humans have cooked
over fire in one way, shape or form;

102

Im sure thats why people are


often mesmerised by fires, or
get excited and light a barbecue
as soon as the sun comes out.
Its a primal instinct.
Here are my tips for creating the
perfect woodfired oven. Start your
fire early and wait for flames to die
down and hot coals to form before
you start cooking. Regulate the heat
by having a small fire burning to
keep the coals glowing, as these are
your main heat source in the oven.
Larger pieces of wood will result in
larger coals to maintain even heat,
but don't feed the fire too much as
the temperature of the oven can
soar. Invest in some heatproof tools,
such as pizza shovels or pan hooks
long enough to reach into the oven.
Be careful when reaching for items
and keep your eye on the food inside.
It takes some time to get going,
but the result is worth the wait.

Roasted gRapes
with cheese

Serves 8 as a starter
1kg black grapes (on the vine)
1 tbs caster sugar
2-3 thyme sprigs, leaves picked
Extra virgin olive oil
Splash of red wine vinegar
75g creme fraiche or sour cream
50g cheddar, roughly chopped
250g camembert or brie
1 bunch sage, leaves picked
Fresh bread and walnuts, to serve
1 When the temperature on your

woodfired oven has reached roughly


220C (check your thermometer) and
the smoke and flames have died down,
start cooking. (Alternatively, preheat
your regular oven to 220C.)
2 Place the grapes in a large roasting
pan, sprinkle with sugar and thyme,
and drizzle with oil and vinegar.
Roast for 510 minutes, keeping

an eye on them and turning when


necessary, until the grapes are just
starting to catch and burst open.
3 Remove the tray from the oven and
spoon over dollops of creme fraiche,
scatter over the cheddar chunks, then
tear up the camembert and nestle the
pieces among the grapes.
4 Drizzle the sage leaves with olive
oil and scatter over the top. Return
the dish to the oven for 5 minutes
or until the cheese just starts to melt.
5 Serve in the middle of the table with
bread and a bowl of walnuts.

Grilled cucumberS
WiTH almond cream

Serves 46 as a side
3 telegraph or 8 Lebanese cucumbers
Olive oil
1 heaped tsp cumin seeds
4 spring onions
small bunch flat-leaf parsley
small bunch mint
1 lemon
Almond cream
cup (55g) blanched almonds
400g can chickpeas, rinsed, drained
2 tsp tahini
tsp honey
Seeds of 1 vanilla pod
Milk, to loosen
1 When the temperature on your

woodfired oven has reached roughly


220C (check your thermometer) and
the smoke and flames have died down,
start cooking. (Alternatively, preheat
your regular oven to 220C.)
2 Gently bash cucumbers with a rolling
pin so they split slightly, then pop in a
roasting pan, drizzle with oil and
season. Roast for 15 minutes or until
starting to char, adding the cumin seeds
to the pan for the final 3 minutes.
3 Tip the contents of the roasting pan
onto a board and roughly chop the
cucumbers into different-sized chunks.
Finely slice the spring onions, parsley
and mint. Add everything to a bowl and
dress with a squeeze of lemon juice.
4 For the almond cream, whiz nuts in a
food processor with chickpeas, tahini,
honey and vanilla seeds until smooth.
Add a splash of milk to loosen, if needed.
5 To serve, spoon the almond cream
onto a serving plate, top with the
cucumber mixture and drizzle with
the lemon dressing from the bowl.

ROAStED GRAPES wIth ChEESE

GRILLED CUCUMBERS
wIth ALMOND CREAM

EGGPLANT AL FORNO. OPPOsiTE:


bAkEd-bLAckbERRy bELLiNi.

105

CAPTAIN CAVEMAN CHOPS

Baked-BlackBerry Bellini
Makes 6
200g blackberries
2 tbs caster sugar
750ml bottle prosecco
or Champagne

1 When the temperature on your

woodfired oven has reached roughly


200C (check with your thermometer)
and the smoke and flames have died
down, start cooking. (Alternatively,
preheat your regular oven to 200C.)
2 Tip blackberries into a snug-fitting
roasting dish and scatter over the
sugar. Roast for 10 minutes or until
the berries start to soften and burst.
Remove from oven and leave to cool.
3 Whiz the roasted blackberries in
a blender or squash them with a fork
until smooth, then pass through a sieve.
Pop in the fridge until chilled.
4 Evenly distribute the chilled fruit
puree among 6 Champagne glasses
and top up with your favourite bubbles.

eggplant al forno

This Sicilian-inspired dish


is a lovely alternative
to cheesy parmigiana.
Serves 4 as a side
3 eggplants, cut into 1cm slices
Extra virgin olive oil
tsp ground cinnamon,
plus an extra pinch
4 spring onions,
finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Handful vine-ripened
cherry tomatoes
Red wine vinegar, to drizzle
cup (50g) fresh breadcrumbs
cup (50g) pine nuts
2 tbs raisins
1 When the temperature on your

woodfired oven has reached roughly


220C (check your thermometer) and
the smoke and flames have died down,
start cooking. (Alternatively, preheat
your regular oven to 220C.)
2 Place the eggplant slices in a baking
dish. Brush lightly with oil, then sprinkle
over the cinnamon and season with salt
and pepper. Cook for 1520 minutes,
adding the spring onion, garlic and
cherry tomato after 10 minutes.

Once the eggplant and tomatoes


have all softened and charred,
add a splash of vinegar to the pan.
3 In a bowl combine the breadcrumbs,
pine nuts, raisins, a pinch of cinnamon
and a drizzle of oil, then season well.
Sprinkle over the aubergine mixture
and cook for a further 510 minutes
until crispy and golden, then serve.

captain caveMan chops

Serves 4-6
12 x 100g lamb cutlets (not
French-trimmed) with long bones
Olive oil, to drizzle
cup (55g) pitted prunes
cup (55g) dried apricots
cup (60ml) red wine vinegar
2-3 mint sprigs
Gremolata
Small bunch flat-leaf parsley
Finely grated zest and
juice of 1 lemon
Finely grated zest of 1 orange
1 small garlic clove
250g cracked wheat (burghul)
1 When the temperature on your

woodfired oven has reached roughly


220C (check your thermometer) and
the smoke and flames have died down,
start cooking. (Alternatively, preheat
your regular oven to 220C.) Preheat
a large roasting pan.
2 Using a sharp knife, carefully score
crosses into the fat of the cutlets, then
season and drizzle with oil. Transfer the
lamb to your preheated roasting pan
and cook for 1015 minutes until golden
and cooked. Transfer to a plate and
rest, covered with foil, for 5 minutes.
3 Meanwhile, place the prunes and
apricots on an oven tray and roast
for 5 minutes or until softened. Add
to a bowl with the vinegar and leave
to soak for 5 minutes to plump up.
4 Whiz the soaked fruit with the mint
in a blender, adding a splash of water
to loosen, if needed. Set aside.
5 For the gremolata, finely chop the
parsley on a board along with the citrus
zests and garlic. Set aside.
6 Cook the cracked wheat according
to packet instructions. Dress with a
little olive oil and the juice of 1 lemon.
7 Pile the cracked wheat onto a large
serving platter, then stack the chops

on top. Scatter over the gremolata and


serve with the prune and apricot sauce
to drizzle over.

roasted fruit

Serve this as it is with ice cream,


or turn it into a crumble.
Serves 8
1kg stone fruit (such as plums,
peaches, apricots and nectarines),
halved, stones removed
2 pears
2 apples
200g frozen blackberries
Splash of brandy (optional)
cup (55g) caster sugar
1 rosemary sprig, leaves picked
1 vanilla pod, split, seeds scraped
Finely grated zest and
juice of 1 orange
Finely grated zest and
juice of 1 lemon
2 bay leaves
Vanilla ice cream, to serve
Crumble topping (optional)
120g plain flour
60g chilled unsalted butter
cup (50g) hazelnuts, chopped
2 tbs raw sugar
Handful of oats
1 When the temperature on your

woodfired oven has reached roughly


200C (check your thermometer) and
the smoke and flames have died down,
start cooking. (Alternatively, preheat
your regular oven to 200C.)
2 Place the stone fruit, pears and apples
in a shallow roasting pan with berries.
Drizzle over brandy, if using, and sprinkle
over sugar, rosemary and vanilla seeds.
Scatter over citrus zest and squeeze
over the juice, then add the bay leaves.
3 Toss to coat, then spread everything
out into an even layer. Roast for
5 minutes (or 2025 minutes in
a regular oven), until the fruit is
soft but still keeps its shape.
4 If youre making the crumble topping,
rub the flour and butter together in a
bowl until it resembles breadcrumbs.
Mix in the nuts, sugar and oats, then
sprinkle over the fruit. Bake for
5 minutes (1015 minutes in
a regular oven), until golden.
5 Serve the fruit crumble with
scoops of ice cream.

107

Recipes Joss Herd

Photography Jonathan Gregson

VIETNAMESE cHArGrIllEd
EGGplANT SAlAd
(rEcIpE p 114)

108

It

MIX

JAPANESE GRILLED SALMON


& SEAWEED SALAD (REcIPE P 1144

Now is the time for light, bright and


super-fresh salads cue these gorgeous
Asian-inspired recipes, from Japanese
salmon and seaweed salad to golden
Vietnamese chicken with mint.

Vietnamese chicken
saLaD (Goi Ga)

This chicken and cabbage salad is a


Vietnamese classic. Allow as much
time as you can to marinate your
chicken for maximum flavour.
Serves 4
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 tbs fish sauce
1 tsp caster sugar
4 chicken thigh fillets,
cut into 2cm pieces
2 red (Asian) eschalots
2 cups (500ml) peanut oil
Small cube of bread (to test the oil)
1 tbs honey
Dressing
1 tbs fish sauce
2 tbs rice vinegar
1 tbs caster sugar
1-2 small red chillies, finely chopped
1 large garlic clove, finely chopped
Juice of 1-2 limes
Salad
1 tbs jasmine rice
200g white cabbage, shredded
2 large carrots, shredded
10 shiso leaves*
Handful mint leaves
1 Place the garlic, fish sauce and sugar
rojAk wiTH
PrAwnS

Rojak with pRawns

Hot, salty, sour and sweet, this


Malaysian/Singaporean salad packs
a real punch. To make this work for
vegetarians, simply replace the
prawns with crispy fried tofu and
omit the shrimp paste.
Serves 2
1 tbs sesame seeds
cup (35g) roasted salted peanuts
1 green apple, thinly sliced
1 small firm mango, thinly sliced
pineapple, sliced into wedges
cucumber, peeled,
seeds removed, thinly sliced
6 thin baguette slices, toasted
Juice of 2 limes
150g cooked, peeled prawns, halved
Dressing
3 tbs grated palm sugar*
or brown sugar
cup (60ml) kecap manis*
2 tbs sambal oelek*

110

2 tbs tamarind paste


tsp shrimp paste*
1 For the dressing, place all ingredients

in a small saucepan over medium heat,


stirring until the sugar has dissolved.
Remove from heat and set aside to cool.
2 Toast the sesame seeds in a small, dry
frypan over low heat for 35 minutes
until golden. Add to a mortar and pestle
with the peanuts and pound until
coarse. Set aside.
3 Add the apple, mango, pineapple,
cucumber and baguette to a large bowl
and squeeze over the limes. Add the
prawns and dressing, then toss to coat.
4 Divide between 2 serving dishes
and scatter with the peanut topping.
Serve immediately.
*Kecap manis (sweet Indonesian soy
sauce), sambal oelek (Malaysian chilli
paste) and shrimp paste are all available
from Asian food shops.

in a bowl and stir to combine. Add the


chicken and marinate for at least 1 hour.
2 Thinly slice the eschalot and rinse
under cold water, then pat with paper
towel. Set aside to dry.
3 Meanwhile, heat oil in a saucepan over
medium-high heat. Drop in a cube of
bread, if it browns in 10 seconds, the oil
is hot enough. Carefully lower eschalot
into oil, in batches, and fry for 2 minutes
or until golden and crisp. Remove with a
slotted spoon and drain on paper towel.
4 For the dressing, place the fish sauce,
rice vinegar and sugar in a small pan
over medium heat, bring to a simmer
and stir until the sugar has dissolved.
Add chilli, garlic and lime juice, then
transfer to a bowl to cool.
5 Stir-fry the chicken in a dry wok
over medium-high heat, tossing, until
cooked and golden. Transfer to a bowl,
drizzle with honey and keep warm.
6 Toast the rice for the salad in a dry
frypan over medium heat until golden,
then grind to a coarse powder in a
mortar and pestle.
7 Toss the remaining salad ingredients
in a bowl with the dressing, top with the
chicken and toss gently. Add the ground

vietnamese CHiCKen
saLaD (goi ga)

prawn & nOODLE


SaLaD wITH SwEET
CHILLI SaUCE

toasted rice and toss gently again.


Serve immediately, topped with the
crispy eschalot.
*Shiso, also known as Japanese basil,
looks like a large nettle leaf. Its related
to mint and has a pungent, grassy
flavour. You should be able to find it
at your local Asian grocer but if not,
substitute with mint leaves.

Prawn & noodle salad


with sweet chilli sauce

This recipe uses rice noodles in stick


form, which just need to be soaked
briefly, but you can use any type of
rice noodles you like. The balance of
sweet mango, creamy avocado and
spicy chilli makes this a brilliantly
fresh, pick-me-up dish.
Serves 2
100g packet 3mm rice stick noodles
1 small mango, chopped
1 avocado, chopped
100g cooked, peeled prawns
or shrimps
1 bunch coriander cress* or coriander,
leaves picked
Sweet chilli sauce
50g caster sugar
50ml rice wine vinegar
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
23 long red chillies, seeds removed,
finely chopped
1-2 small red chillies, seeds removed,
finely chopped
1 For the sweet chilli sauce, pour the

sugar, vinegar and cup (80ml) water


into a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer
over medium-low heat, stirring until the
sugar dissolves, then add the garlic and
chilli. Simmer for 15 minutes or until the
sauce is reduced and syrupy. Set aside
to cool completely.
2 Soak the noodles according to the
packet instructions. Drain thoroughly
and toss in cup (75g) cooled sweet
chilli sauce, adding a little extra
to coat all the noodles, if necessary.
3 Add the mango, avocado and prawns
to the noodles and toss gently to
combine, then add the coriander.
Serve immediately.
*Coriander cress is a micro herb with
a strong citrus and pepper flavour,
available from selected greengrocers
and farmers' markets.

CriSPy bASil SAlAd


wiTh Pork & PiCkled
CArroTS

crisPy basil salad with


Pork & Pickled carrots

A fusion of Thai and Chinese, this


salad is packed with great zingy
flavours. To save time, make the
pickled carrots in advance and
refrigerate until needed.
Serves 2
2 cups (500ml) peanut oil
300g pork mince
Pinch ground white or black pepper
3 spring onions, finely chopped,
reserving one to serve
1 tbs red Thai curry paste
300ml chicken stock
Small cube of bread (to test the oil)
1 bunch holy basil*,
leaves picked
1 iceberg lettuce, leaves separated
Pickled carrots
200ml rice vinegar
100g caster sugar
1 tsp fennel seeds

1 star anise
2 carrots, thinly sliced
(using a mandoline)
1 To make the pickled carrots, add the

rice vinegar to a saucepan over a


medium heat with the sugar, fennel
seeds, star anise and 1 tsp sea salt.
Bring to a simmer and stir until the
sugar has dissolved. Remove from the
heat, tip in the carrots and stir to coat.
Leave to cool completely, then pickle
for at least 30 minutes.
2 Heat 1 tbs peanut oil in a wok until
smoking hot. Add the pork, season
with the white pepper and a pinch
of salt, then stir-fry until golden
and starting to crisp.
3 Add 2 chopped spring onions and the
red Thai curry paste, and cook for a
further 1 minute. Pour in the stock,
and reduce the heat, then cook for a
further 20 minutes or until the stock

113

has evaporated and the pork is tender,


cooked and starting to crisp up again.
4 heat the remaining peanut oil in
a separate saucepan. Add the cube
of bread, if it browns in 10 seconds,
your oil is hot enough to start frying.
In batches, fry the basil leaves for
3 seconds or until theyre translucent
and crisp (careful of the hot oil, as it may
spit). Remove the crispy leaves with a
slotted spoon and drain on paper towel.
5 To serve, place the lettuce leaves on
a serving plate, scatter over the pork,
pickled carrots, reserved spring onion
and the crispy basil leaves. Drizzle with
a little of the carrot pickling liquid and
serve immediately.
*Holy basil is a spicy herb similar
to both mint and basil, it's available
from Asian and selected grocers;
substitute regular basil.

Japanese grilled salmon


& seaweed salad

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The magic ingredient in this dish


is togarashi seasoning, a mix of chilli,
orange peel, ginger, sesame seeds,
Szechuan pepper and seaweed.
It adds wow factor to salmon.
Serves 4
500g skinless salmon fillet,
pin-boned
2 tbs soy sauce
2 tbs honey
1 tbs togarashi seasoning*
Juice of 1 lime
1 tbs black sesame seeds*
20g dried seaweed salad (wakame)*,
shredded
4 spring onions, shredded
1 cos lettuce, roughly torn
Dressing
Finely grated zest of 2 limes,
plus juice of 1 lime
Finely grated zest and
juice of 1 orange
3cm piece ginger, grated
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 tbs soy sauce
1 tbs sesame oil
1 Preheat the grill to high and line

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a shallow baking dish with foil. Place


the salmon, skin-side down, in the dish,
spoon over the soy and honey, and
sprinkle with togarashi seasoning.
2 Grill for 1518 minutes until dark,
sticky and the salmon flakes easily

when tested. Remove from the grill,


squeeze over the lime and set aside.
3 In a small dry frypan, fry the sesame
seeds over a medium heat until just
toasted, then set aside.
4 Place the dressing ingredients in a
bowl and whisk until combined. Add the
seaweed and spring onion and toss to
coat, then do the same with the lettuce.
Divide between plates, top with the
flaked salmon and sesame seeds.
*Togarashi seasoning, black sesame
seeds and wakame are available from
Asian food shops.

Vietnamese chargrilled
eggplant salad

Tamarind cuts beautifully through the


melt-in-your-mouth charred eggplant.
Serves 2
1 tbs jasmine rice
2 small eggplants, sliced into
3mm-thick rounds
1 tbs peanut oil
3 spring onions, thinly sliced
75g beansprouts
1 long red chilli, finely sliced
Handful mint leaves
30g punnet micro garlic chives
(optional)
1 tbs roasted salted peanuts,
chopped
Dressing
1 tbs fish sauce
1 tsp tamarind paste
1 tsp grated palm sugar
or brown sugar
1 For the dressing, heat fish sauce,

tamarind and sugar in a small pan over


medium heat, stirring, for 35 minutes
until sugar has dissolved. Cool.
2 Toast the rice in a dry frypan over
medium heat, shaking occasionally,
for 810 minutes until golden and crisp.
Using a mortar and pestle, grind it to
a coarse powder, then set aside.
3 Heat a chargrill pan over high heat,
brush the eggplant slices with oil and
chargrill for 6 minutes, turning, until
tender and charred.
4 Divide the eggplant between
2 plates, scatter over the spring onion,
beansprouts, chilli, mint and micro
garlic chives, if using, then drizzle
generously with dressing. Finish with
a scattering of the chopped peanuts
and the toasted rice powder.

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Cgandcherry.com
What was the hardest part of trying to conceive? And the best?
When I didnt conceive in the frst month we tried I cried and
moaned that it was probably because I was too old, but I was
only 29 at the time. My poor husband had to put up with that kind
of melodrama ofen in those days. I was convinced that losing
weight would increase our fertility. We werent big fatties to start
with, but we had just spent 6 months travelling (read: eating) all
over Europe, Africa and Asia, and had piled on a bit of weight.
As the main cook in our house I promptly overhauled our meals,
banned alcohol and strongly encouraged daily exercise. Yes, I was
bossy, but hubby was 100% on board. For the record though,
I have really mellowed since then, and was not nearly as strict with
hubby the second time around! The second month we tried to
conceive, we had success. Hubby, understandably, felt very
stud-like. I was also much more relaxed. I knew when I was
ovulating so we timed the attempts, but we didnt stress too
much about the result. It was more about enjoying ourselves.

Its rIdIculously easy to eat well in summer, especially


when it comes to dessert. Put out a plate of ripe peaches and
a handful of juicy strawberries, and youre done. Chop a few
diferent coloured melons for a cooling salad, or stock the
freezer with sweet summer sorbets to cool down a crowd.
My natural instinct with fruit is to keep things very simple
and light, and not load it up with heaps of desserty-things.
On the other hand, a little chocolate jelly, however,
or a vanilla-yoghurt cream? Yes, please. Whether its
whisking up an instant gluten-free banana soufe, building
a yoghurt and berry trie around ourless chocolate cake,
or having ready-made sorbets in the freezer, a little bit
of what you fancy does you good.

116 delicious.

Recipes Jill dupleix photogRaphy ben dearnley


styling vicki valsamis nutRitional analysis kate skinner

With the excess of the holiday season


behind us, Jill takes a look at the lighter
side of cool summer desserts.

jills fab four.

Low in fat
Yoghurt & BerrY
gelato terrine
This tangy gelato terrine is perfect
for stress-free entertaining just slice
and serve on a hot summers day.

jills fab four.

Gluten-free
banana & lime souffle
with toasted coconut
These easy soufes rise
miraculously and taste
like a banana milkshake.

3
Low-kilojoule
dark chocolate jellies
with caramel popcorn
Top these silky chocolate jellies with
the sweet crunch of caramel popcorn.

delicious. 119

4
High in protein
cake & berry trifle
This combination of ourless
chocolate cake, dreamy vanilla
yoghurt and tangy berries proves
that tries dont have to be heavy.

jills fab four.


yoghurt & berry gelato terrine

banana & lime soufe with toasted coconut

Serves 8

Serves 4

1/2

cup (110g) caster sugar


500g thick Greek-style
yoghurt
1 cup (150g) pure icing sugar,
plus 2 tbs extra

1 tsp vanilla extract


2 tsp rosewater
3 x 125g punnets raspberries,
plus extra to serve
Mint leaves, to serve

2 tsp unsalted butter, melted


1/3 cup (75g) caster sugar,
plus 2 tsp extra
1 banana
1 tbs lime juice
1 tbs dark rum (optional)

3 eggwhites (at room


temperature)
2 tbs shredded coconut,
toasted, plus extra to serve
Pure icing sugar,
to dust

To make sugar syrup, combine caster sugar and 2 cups (500ml)


water in a saucepan over high heat. Bring to the boil, then cook,
for 3 minutes or until sugar dissolves. Set aside to cool.
Whisk yoghurt, icing sugar, vanilla and 200ml cooled sugar
syrup together. Transfer to a container and freeze, stirring every
1 hour, for 3 hours. Spoon half into a 1.25L terrine lined with plastic
wrap and freeze. Chill remaining yoghurt gelato in the fridge.
Meanwhile, whiz rosewater, 250g berries and remaining 300ml
sugar syrup in a food processor until smooth. Strain, then transfer
to a container and freeze, stirring every 1 hour, for 3 hours.
Spoon berry gelato into terrine and freeze for 2 hours. Top with
reserved yoghurt gelato. Cover and freeze for 4 hours. Blend
remaining 125g berries and 2 tbs icing sugar until smooth. Strain.
Uncover terrine and invert onto a plate, remove plastic wrap
and slice, then serve with berry puree, mint and extra raspberries.
Per serve: 866kJ (207 cal), fat 1.6g (saturated 0.9g), protein 6.8g,
carb 42.6g, bre 3.0g, chol 3mg, sodium 21mg.

Preheat the oven to 190C. Brush four 1/2 cup (125ml) ramekins
with melted butter, then coat with the extra 2 tsp caster sugar,
shaking off any excess. Place ramekins on a baking tray.
Whiz the banana, lime juice, and rum, if using, in a food
processor until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl and set aside.
Whisk eggwhites with electric beaters until soft peaks
form. Gradually beat in caster sugar until stiff and glossy.
Gently fold the meringue mixture into the banana mixture.
Divide among ramekins, then run your nger around the inside
edge (this will help the soufes rise as they cook). Scatter
with coconut, then bake, on the centre shelf of the oven,
for 12 minutes or until golden and risen.
Dust the soufes with icing sugar and top with extra
toasted coconut, then serve.
Per serve: 720kJ (172 cal), fat 3.0g (saturated 2.0g), protein 3.4g,
carb 32.9g, bre 1.6g, chol 5mg, sodium 56mg.

dark chocolate jellies with caramel popcorn

ourless chocolate cake & berry trie

Serves 4

Serves 4

1/3

cup (75g) caster sugar


100g dark chocolate, chopped
1 tbs instant coffee, diluted
in 2 tbs hot water

3 titanium-strength gelatine
leaves*
Store-bought caramel
popcorn, to serve

Place sugar and 11/2 cups (375ml) water in a saucepan over


medium heat and bring to the boil. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes
or until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat, then add chocolate
and coffee, stirring until melted and smooth.
Meanwhile, soak gelatine leaves in cold water for 5 minutes
to soften. Squeeze excess water from gelatine, then stir into
the chocolate mixture, whisking until combined. Chill, stirring
every half hour, for 11/2 hours or until slightly thickened, then stir
mixture until smooth. Divide among four 1/2 cup (125ml) jelly
moulds then cover and chill for at least 6 hours or until set.
To serve, dip the base of each jelly mould briey in hot water
and turn out onto serving plates. Serve with caramel popcorn.

* Gelatine leaves (check the packet for setting instructions)


are from delis and gourmet food shops.
Per serve: 908kJ (217 cal), fat 7.4g (saturated 5.2g), protein 6.1g,
carb 33.6g, bre 0.8g, chol 6mg, sodium 20mg.

100g dark chocolate, melted


1/3 cup (75g) caster sugar
75g unsalted butter, melted
1/2 cup (60g) almond meal
11/2 tsp vanilla extract
3 eggs, separated

2 tbs pure icing sugar


200g strawberries,
halved
200g low-fat yoghurt
100g ricotta
125g punnet blueberries

Preheat the oven to 180C. Grease and line a 20cm springform


cake pan. Combine chocolate, caster sugar and butter in
a bowl. Add almond and 1/2 tsp vanilla, stirring to combine.
Add egg yolks, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition.
Whisk eggwhites with electric beaters until stiff peaks form,
then gently fold through chocolate mixture. Pour into pan and
bake for 25 minutes or until a skewer comes out clean. Cool.
Meanwhile, whiz icing sugar and half the strawberries in
a food processor until smooth. In a separate bowl, whisk
yoghurt, ricotta and remaining 1 tsp vanilla until smooth.
Crumble cake and divide among 4 glasses. Top with vanilla
yoghurt, coulis, blueberries and remaining 100g strawberries. d.
Per serve: 2205kJ (527 cal), fat 36.0g (saturated 18.2g), protein
15.7g, carb 35.6g, bre 4.1g, chol 180mg, sodium 180mg.

delicious. 121

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Visit morefuninthephilippines.com.au

Asian hotspots in Sydney & Melbourne Postcard from Fiji A taste of Lake Como, Italy

delicious. 123

photography MarK roper


words vallI lIttle

It may be George Clooneys favourite holiday destination for its luxury


villas, but if you explore a little deeper, Lake Como is also a foodie paradise.
Valli joined two of Australias top Italian chefs, Alessandro Pavoni and Giovanni
Pilu, for a weekend-long cooking class to discover regional Lombardy dishes.

recipes GIovannI pIlu & alessandro pavonI

Hidden depths

global favours.

delicious. 125

global favours.
The GlisTeninG waTer, craggy peaks and verdant
surrounds of Lake Como in the Lombardy region of Italy have
lured tourists and celebrities looking for a secluded getaway
for hundreds of years. Earlier this year, two of Australias top
Italian chefs teamed up for a cooking adventure in their
homeland organised by Sue Jenkins of Sydneys Accoutrement.
For Ormeggio at the Spit chef and owner Alessandro Pavoni,
who grew up close by in Brescia, it was a chance to cook with
avours from his childhood. Lemons, olives, good olive oil
and freshwater seafood are the flavours I grew up with and
the hero ingredients in many dishes from the region, says
Alessandro. For Sardinian-born Giovanni, who owns Pilu
at Freshwater on Sydneys northern beaches, the getaway
provided the opportunity for some fresh inspiration. There
are vast diOerences in the reginal specialities around Italy. For
example when it comes to cheese, in Sardinia we really only
produce pecorino, whereas in Como we had access to a variety

of incredible cheese such as Taleggio and gorgonzola,


which we incorporated into our menu, says Giovanni.
The luxe lodgings of Villa La Cassinella, perched on the
waters edge, oOer panoramic views of the region and nearby
town of Lenno. The plush styling and traditional furnishings
were the launching pad for a weekend spent exploring the lake
and towns of Bellagio and Varenna, stopping for tastings at
local wineries and artisan food producers along the way. In the
evenings, Giovanni and Alessandro led hands-on cooking
classes and demonstrations back at the villa, before dinner
on the lakeside terrace overlooking the tranquil water.
Alessandro and I love working together, says Giovanni.
We have a lot of fun and theres always a touch of healthy
rivalry because hes from the north and Im from the south.
Thanks to Singapore Airlines for their assistance with this story.
Singapore Airlines operate ve ights a week from Australia
to Milan. For bookings, tel: 131 011 or visit: singaporeair.com.

Clockwise (from far left): Giovanni and Alessandro on


Lake Como; the lounge room at Villa La Cassinella; the
villa is only accessible by boat; scallops with bottarga
butter and pancetta; classic Italian style at the villa; baked
sh with white wine and green olives (recipe p 132).

delicious. 127

global favours.

Terraces in the town of Lenno. Left: polenta


with trufed mixed mushrooms. Opposite:
the view of the lake from Villa La Cassinella.

slices and place one on top of each. Place


in the oven for 30 seconds or until butter
begins to melt. Immediately top each
scallop with a slice of pancetta and serve.

polenta with trufed


mixed mushrooms
Serves 4

scallops with bottarga


butter and pancetta
Serves 4
50g bottarga* (see Cooks Notes, p 134),
nely grated
1/2 tsp chilli powder
200g softened unsalted butter
12 thin slices pancetta
12 scallops on half shell,
roe removed
Preheat the oven to 180C.
To make the bottarga butter, combine
bottarga, chilli powder and 150g butter.
Place a large piece of plastic wrap on a
workbench. Spoon butter along the centre
of the plastic in a long strip and fold one

128 delicious.

end over to enclose the butter. Hold the


sides of the plastic and roll into a neat log
2.5cm in diameter, then twist ends rmly
to secure. Place in the fridge to chill.
Arrange pancetta slices on a baking
paper-lined baking tray. Place another
tray of the same size on top to keep the
slices at. Roast for 8 minutes or until
crisp and golden.
Remove the scallops from their shells
and season. Heat a non-stick frypan over
medium-high heat. Add remaining 50g
butter and, when sizzling, add scallops
and cook for 1 minute on one side,
then turn and cook for 30 seconds or until
golden but still opaque in the middle.
Return scallops to shells and place on a
baking tray. Cut bottarga butter into thin

40g dried porcini mushrooms


11/2 cups (250g) instant polenta
2 tbs extra virgin olive oil
200g mixed mushrooms,
cut into small even-sized pieces
1 garlic clove, nely chopped
1/2 bunch at-leaf parsley, leaves chopped
75g gorgonzola piccante*
(see Cooks Notes, p 134)
50g parmesan, nely grated
Trufe shavings or oil* (see Cooks Notes,
p 134) and rosemary sprigs, to serve
Place porcini in a heatproof bowl and
pour over 1 cup (250ml) boiling water.
Soak for 10 minutes, then drain.
Meanwhile, cook the polenta according
to the packet instructions.
Heat oil in a frypan over medium-high
heat, add porcini, mixed mushroom and
garlic, then cook for 5 minutes or until
golden. Stir in parsley. Remove from heat.
When the polenta is ready, stir in the
gorgonzola and parmesan, then cook
for a further 2 minutes or until melted.
To serve, divide polenta among plates,
top with mushrooms, trufe shavings
or trufe oil and rosemary sprigs.

lake como is home to incredible


freshwater fsh and seafood.
tagliolini with sardines
Serves 8 as a starter
Youll need a pasta machine for this recipe.
100ml extra virgin olive oil
50g unsalted butter
1 white onion, nely chopped
24 sardine llets* (see Cooks Notes,
p 134), skin on, pin-boned
11/2 tbs dry white wine
1/2 bunch at-leaf parsley,
leaves nely chopped
Tagliolini pasta dough
300g 00 our* (see Cooks Notes,
p 134), plus extra to dust
3 eggs
Lemon breadcrumbs
50g unsalted butter
1 cup (70g) fresh breadcrumbs
1 garlic clove, nely chopped
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
For the pasta dough, sift the our into a
bowl. Add the eggs and use your hands
to bring the mixture together into a rm
dough. Tip onto a oured workbench
and knead for 5 minutes or until smooth,
dusting hands or the bench with a little
more our if it starts to stick. Enclose in
plastic wrap and place in the fridge for
30 minutes to rest.
Divide dough into 6 pieces and atten
1 piece slightly into a neat rectangle.
Cover the remaining pieces with a clean
tea towel to prevent drying out. Starting
on the thickest setting of your pasta
machine, run the dough through a few
times, folding it in half each time, until
elastic. Keep rolling the dough through

130 delicious.

the settings, reducing the thickness each


time, until 2mm thick. Cut the sheet into 3
equal lengths (about 25cm), dust with our
and feed through the at pasta-cutting
attachment on your machine to create
tagliolini. Place tagliolini on a our-dusted
tray and repeat with remaining dough.
For the lemon breadcrumbs, melt butter
in a frypan over medium heat. Add crumbs
and garlic, then stir until golden. Remove
pan from heat, add lemon zest and a pinch
of salt, then toss to combine. Set aside.
Heat oil and butter in a frypan over low
heat. Add onion and a pinch of salt, then
cover and cook, stirring, for 15-20 minutes
until very soft, but not coloured. Add
sardines to the frypan, increase heat
to high and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes
or until sardines are almost dissolved.
Add the wine and stir to combine.
Meanwhile, cook pasta in a saucepan
of boiling, salted water for 2 minutes
or until tender, then drain.
Toss pasta with sauce and parsley, then
serve sprinkled with lemon breadcrumbs.

lamb with fregola & olive salad


Serves 4
4 x 350g French-trimmed lamb racks
2 tbs extra virgin olive oil
Flat-leaf parsley leaves and
lemon wedges, to serve
Fregola & olive salad
1 cup (200g) fregola*
(see Cooks Notes, p 134)
1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil
2 tbs good-quality red wine vinegar
20 (120g) Bosane olives* (see Cooks
Notes, p 134), pitted, nely chopped

1 rosemary sprig,
leaves nely chopped
1 marjoram sprig, leaves picked
1 mint sprig, leaves nely chopped
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
Finely grated zest of 1 orange
Remove lamb from fridge 1-2 hours
before cooking. Cover and set aside
to bring to room temperature.
Preheat the oven to 200C. Season
lamb generously with salt. Heat 1 tbs oil
in a large ovenproof frypan over
medium-high heat. Add 2 racks of lamb,
skin-side down, and cook for 2-3 minutes
each side or until well browned. Repeat
with remaining 1 tbs oil and racks.
Transfer the lamb racks to a baking
paper-lined baking tray and roast for
15 minutes for medium or until cooked
to your liking. Remove lamb from the
oven, cover loosely with foil and set
aside to rest for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, for the fregola and olive
salad, bring a saucepan of salted water
to the boil over high heat. Add the
fregola and cook for 10 minutes or until
al dente. Drain, then toss with 1 tbs oil.
Spread out on a tray to cool. Combine
the vinegar with the remaining 1/4 cup
(60ml) oil, and season. Combine the
remaining ingredients in a bowl,
add the fregola and drizzle over the
dressing, then toss to combine.
Divide the fregola salad among 4 serving
plates. Slice the lamb into cutlets and
arrange on top of the fregola.
Place the resting juices from the lamb in
a frypan over high heat and bring to the
boil. Drizzle over the meat and serve with
parsley and lemon wedges on the side.

global favours.

Clockwise (from top left): villas on


Lake Como; Giovanni and Alessandro;
lamb with fregola & olive salad; mosaic
in the villa gardens; tagliolini
with sardines.

creamy, adding a little more hot stock if


necessary. Transfer to a serving platter.
Place the sh on top of the risotto.
Spoon the remaining sage butter from
the pan over the sh, then serve.

baked sh with
white wine and green olives
Serves 4
Alessandro and Giovanni used local
lake sh for this recipe, but we have
substituted rainbow trout.

perch with risotto and sage butter


Serves 6 as a starter
1.5L (6 cups) sh stock
200g unsalted butter
2 cups (440g) carnaroli rice*
(see Cooks Notes, p 134)
100g nely grated parmesan
1/2 cup (75g) plain our
500g silver perch llets, pin-boned
16 sage leaves
Extra virgin olive oil, to drizzle
Place stock in a large saucepan over high
heat and bring to the boil. Reduce heat
to low and simmer until needed.
Melt 25g butter in a deep frypan over
medium heat. Add rice and a pinch of salt,

132 delicious.

and cook, stirring, for 3-4 minutes until


well coated. Add stock, 1 ladle at a time,
stirring and allowing each one to be
absorbed before adding the next, until
the rice is al dente (about 20 minutes).
Remove risotto from heat, add cheese
and 75g butter. Cover, without stirring, and
set aside for butter and cheese to melt.
Meanwhile, place our on a plate and
season. Cut sh into strips and dust in the
our, shaking off excess. Heat 50g butter
in a frypan over medium heat. Add half the
sage leaves and half the sh, then cook,
turning, for 2-3 minutes until cooked
through. Transfer to a plate and repeat
with remaining 50g butter, sage and sh.
Drizzle the risotto with oil and use a
wooden spoon to beat the risotto until

4 x 300g whole rainbow trout, cleaned


1 spring onion, white part thinly sliced
2 rosemary sprigs, leaves nely chopped
2 garlic cloves, nely sliced
20 Bosane olives* (see Cooks Notes,
p 134), cheeks cut from the stone
4 fresh bay leaves
1 cup (250ml) dry white wine
2 tbs nely chopped at-leaf
parsley leaves
Preheat oven to 180C. Score one side
of each sh with four diagonal slits.
Place sh on a baking paper-lined
baking tray, scored-side up. Scatter the
spring onion, rosemary, garlic and olive
over the top and place a bay leaf on each
sh. Pour over wine and sprinkle with
parsley, salt and a generous amount of
pepper. Bake, basting with the pan juices
halfway, for 20 minutes or until just
cooked. Transfer sh to a serving plate.
Pour the cooking juices into a small
saucepan and bring to the boil, then
spoon over the sh to serve.

global favours.

Perch with risotto and sage


butter. Opposite: the
meandering gardens of
Villa La Cassinella.

global favours.

Pears poached in red wine


with ginger semifreddo. Right:
alfresco dining at the villa.

pears poached in red wine


with ginger semifreddo
Serves 8
8 small pears, peeled (stems intact)
1L (4 cups) red wine
10 cloves
1 cinnamon quill
Pared zest of 1 orange, cut into large
strips, white pith removed
400g caster sugar
Crushed amaretti biscuits, to serve
Ginger semifreddo
6 egg yolks
150g caster sugar
2 tsp nely grated fresh ginger
200ml cream, whipped to soft peaks

134 delicious.

For the ginger semifreddo, using electric


beaters, beat egg yolks until creamy.
Place sugar and 150ml water in a small
saucepan over medium heat and cook,
stirring, for 2-3 minutes until sugar
dissolves. Increase heat to medium-high
and bring to a simmer. Simmer for
4 minutes or until slightly reduced. Slowly
drizzle the hot sugar syrup into the egg,
beating constantly. Continue beating for
7-8 minutes until mixture is cool, glossy,
pale and tripled in volume. Fold the
ginger through the whipped cream, then in
batches, gently fold the ginger cream into
the egg mixture until just incorporated.
Pour into a 1.5L (6 cup) loaf pan or plastic
container, then cover and freeze for at least
6 hours to set.

Arrange pears upright in a single layer,


in a saucepan. Add wine, cloves, cinnamon,
orange zest and sugar, and cover the
surface closely with a piece of baking
paper. Bring to the boil, then reduce heat
to low and simmer for 25-30 minutes until
pears soften but still hold their shape.
Remove pears from pan, then return the
poaching liquid to medium heat and boil
for 30 minutes or until reduced to a syrupy
consistency. Strain, discarding solids.
Slice the pears in half through the stem
and serve with scoops of semifreddo, then
top with crushed amaretti and syrup. d.

Cooks Note
* Bottarga is a dried, cured mullet
*
*
*
*
*
*
*

roe, available from delis and


Asian food shops.
Gorgonzola piccante is a piquante
Italian blue cheese available from
selected supermarkets and delis.
Fresh truIes and truIe oil are
available from gourmet food shops.
Sardine llets are available from
shmongers and the seafood counter
at selected supermarkets.
00 our is a super-ne Italian our
grade, used to make pasta or bread.
Its from supermarkets and delis.
Fregola is a small Sardinian pasta,
from delis and Italian food shops.
Carnaroli is a high-grade Italian
risotto rice from delis.
Bosane olives are large green olives
from Bosa, Italy; substitute Sicilian
green olives.

postcard.

Run to paradise
A green speck in the South Pacic, Fijis private island Laucala is the ultimate luxury getaway. Peter
Gilmore takes a break from the kitchen at his Sydney restaurant Quay to cook with fresh island produce.

Fresh produce on
Laucala island spans
everything from
plump vanilla beans
to wild pumpkin
and ginger.

136 delicious.

coconut cream with vanilla granita,


lychees and raspberries
Serves 6
This recipe is inspired by the abundance of coconuts
and tropical fruit on the island. I made a similar dessert
for guests at the resort, using tree-ripened bananas
and fresh mango.
100ml milk
100ml pure (thin) cream
1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar
100g coconut milk powder
1/3 cup (80ml) double thick cream
24 fresh lychees, peeled, halved,
seeds removed
125g punnet raspberries
Vanilla granita
2 cups (500ml) sparkling white wine
13/4 cups (385g) caster sugar
2 vanilla beans, split, seeds removed
For the vanilla granita, combine the wine, sugar, vanilla pod and
seeds and 2 cups (500ml) water in a saucepan over medium heat.
Bring to the boil and whisk to combine. Strain the mixture
through a sieve, allowing the vanilla seeds to pass through, then
set aside to cool. Place the mixture in a shallow container and
place in the freezer for 2 hours or until partially frozen. Remove
the container from the freezer and break up the crystals by
scraping the surface with a fork. Return to the freezer for 1 hour,
then remove and scrape crystals again. Repeat twice.
For the coconut cream, combine the milk, pure (thin) cream
and sugar in a saucepan over medium heat and bring to the boil.
Place the coconut milk powder in a heatproof bowl, then pour
over the hot milk mixture, whisking to combine. Chill until cool,
then whisk with the double thick cream until soft peaks form.
Spoon the coconut cream into serving glasses, then top
with lychees, raspberries and vanilla granita. d.

LocAtion PhotoGrAPhy PETRINA TINSLAY


Food PhotoGrAPhy ALAN BENSON StyLinG VIVIENNE wALSh

my first glimpse of Laucala island


is from the private plane; a green speck
of palm fronds surrounded by a thin
frame of white sand rising from a
turquoise lagoon. The islands only resort
consists of 25 luxury thatched villas
spread out over 1400 hectares of tropical
paradise, and by that I mean lush coconut
groves, powder-white beaches and craggy
clif tops with 360-degree views.
I was lucky enough to be invited to Laucala Island Resort
to prepare a dinner for guests with the resort chefs. The island
is like no other Ive been to, with ongoing eforts towards
conservation and a sustainable approach to hospitality at the
heart of its ethos. Almost all resources are produced on the
island, from water and
electricity to organic
crops and livestock
its the ultimate
chefs playground.
Fresh produce
on the island spans
everything from
plump vanilla beans
to wild pumpkin,
ginger, cassava and all
manner of herbs and
greens. Tropical fruits
are in abundance and, depending on the season, can include
papaya, mango, banana, star fruit and lychee. The farm is
also home to a herd of goats, sheep, Wagyu cattle and wild
boar-hybrid pigs. Theres an apiary producing honey and
a coconut press that extracts all the oil and milk needed
for daily use in the kitchen and health spa.
Using the bounty of island produce, I created a seven-course
menu, and I can honestly say that the pressures of the Quay
kitchen seemed a galaxy away, with the ocean breeze in my
hair as I whipped around the island on a jet ski before service.

WHERE Laucala Island Resort, Fiji.


WHEN There isnt a bad time to go
to Fiji, but the dry season (May to
October) is milder and less humid.
WHY A tropical foodie paradise
oOering sandy beaches, turquoise
lagoons, island-grown produce and
plenty of activities, from water
sports to horse riding.
Must-do After a lazy breakfast
overlooking the palm plantation, hit
the water for kite-surng, game
shing, jet-skiing and snorkelling;
practise your swing on the 18-hole
golf course; explore the islands
farms and crops; or unwind with
a volcanic stone scrub at the spa.
HoW Fly to Nadi International
Airport, Fiji, then onto Laucala via
a 40-minute ight in a private plane
operated by the resort.
Visit: laucala.com and lhw.com.

Clockwise from top left: Peter Gilmore with resort executive


chef Martin Klein in the hydroponic herb garden; coconut
cream with vanilla granita, lychees and raspberries; the
view from the beach; Laucala Island Resorts pool.

24 hours.
including popular offal and pork dishes.
Try authentic Restaurant Daniel & Denise
(156 Rue de Crqui) for the meat and sh
pies, foie gras and omelette de cure
(omelette with cured meats).

2pm
choc full
Save room for dessert, as the laboratory
and boutique of master chocolatier
Sbastien Bouillet cant be missed.
choKola (3 Rue Austerlitz) has a wall
of liquid chocolate to greet you, with an
abundance of chocolate bars to takeaway.

3pm
chill out
Vieux Lyon (the Old City) is well worth
a visit. Discover the many alleyways and
winding streets originally used by the citys
famous silk merchants. If you have room,
get another sweet x at ice cream parlour
terre adlice (1 Place de la Baleine). Their
range of avours is inventive and exotic
think lavender, foie gras, Roquefort or
gingerbread, to name a few.

5pm
put youR feet up
Time to rest those weary limbs and unwind
at Spa Saint-Jean (31 Rue de Boeuf). They
offer a range of body therapies and scrubs
perfect for soothing tired feet.

10am

Rise and shine


When you're staying at hotel le Royal
(20 Place Bellecour), you need to look
no further than your own digs for the best
breakfast in town. It's the training ground
for students at L'Institut Paul Bocuse,
who train under the watchful eyes of
the masters as they cook for hotel guests.

off to maRket
No visit to Lyon is complete without
visiting the market les halles de paul
Bocuse (102 Cours Lafayette), named after
the famous Lyonnais chef. Guided tours
are available, or explore on your own.
Be sure to stop in at charcuterie Sibilia
for sausages, including local cervelas,
and la Mre Richard for cheese.

9am
top shelf
Explore the boutiques at Place Bellecour,
including librairie in cuisine (1 Place
Bellecour), a bookshop devoted entirely to
gastronomy. Admire the range of cooking
utensils, grab a coffee or sign up to a class.

138 delicious.

12pm
dine like a local
The city's famous bouchons are enjoying a
renaissance. Neither a bistro nor a brasserie,
these cheap and cheerful eateries are
simple kitchens serving up local fare

dRink and be meRRy


Bar Baragones (5 Place Saint-Paul) is a great
spot to experience goneries (small snacks).
Choose from the extensive wine list or
enjoy an aperitif amongst the vintage decor.

8pm
the last suppeR
A short taxi ride will take you to the theatre
district and la Bonme de Bruno (5 Grande
Rue Feuillants), where chef Bruno and his
wife create inspired dishes. Try foie gras
with pickled red cabbage, grilled squid
and candied lemon, and mascarpone and
mirabelle plum cheesecake to nish.
Thanks to Lyon Tourist Ofce and
Convention Bureau for assistance
(visit: en.lyon-france.com).

illustration Stephanie weStcott

8am

7pm

Words valli little

It's said that if Paris is the heart of France, then Lyon is its stomach.
Valli Little puts this theory to the test with a day of local specialties.

DISCOVER THE STORY BEHIND

OUR AUSTRALIAN
RED GUM HONEY

ing for gold in


In the 1880s Benjamin Robinson was min
ive eucalypt honey
Victoria, when he discovered the areas nat
r generations later
was an untapped source of liquid gold. Fou
from family hives
and Robinsons are still producing honey
the bees feed on the
in Beechworth. Ask them their secret -frin
ging Australias
blossoms of majestic native Red Gums lts.
simple
billabongs and rivers. They bottle the resu Its as
and natural as that.

Only at

delicious.

Coles FiNest AdVertisiNG FeAture

A fine vintage
Nestled in the heart of Victorian dairy country in Gippsland comes a
family-produced, award-winning vintage cheese for the Coles Finest
range, using traditions handed down from old cheddar masters.

Left to right: the Holstein dairy


cows; cheddar curd being mixed
by hand; cloth wrapping the
cheese; the fully matured cheddar;
Sam Riggall and Ferial Zekiman.

a passion for tradition


Its 4am and Sam Riggalls day starts with the sound of his herd
of Holstein cows bellowing as they come into the milking sheds.
With around 250 to milk and cheese to be made, its going to be
a long day. But he loves it.
Together with his mother, Ferial Zekiman, Sam runs Maffra Cheese
Company, which has been producing vintage cheddar for almost 30 years.
When Ferial rst started making cheese, she looked to her grandmother
in Cyprus, who made some of the islands most famous goat cheeses,
to pass down her passion and artisan traditions. With her grandmothers
help and the assistance of a couple of retired cheddar masters from
the local Maffra region, she began to learn the techniques that make
their cheese so special today.
As a trained chemist, Ferial combined the traditional techniques
with her innate science knowledge, and is now recognised as one of
Australias most experienced and accomplished cheesemakers.
"Making cheese using farmhouse traditions that are 90 years old
means we can play with nuance, avour and aroma. It's about producing
something that's unique to our land," says Sam.
masters of their craft
Ferial and Sam are now producing their award-winning vintage cheddar
with milk from their farm for the Coles Finest range. Its the beautiful
balance between the science of cheesemaking and the farmhouse
traditions that make their cheese so unique. Importantly, these traditions
mean that the milk in their cheddar comes only from their herd, and the
cheddar itself is made completely by hand and matured until ready for
selection on their farm.
During the maturing process they constantly check on the cheeses
to see that the avour prole is developing. It's a hands-on process

making cheese using farmhouse


traditions that are 90-years old
means we can play with nuance,
favour and aroma.
driven by passion for their craft and the satisfaction of seeing
a product they made.
We still mix the cheddar curd by hand every day in open
vats; very few factories in the world do that, says Sam.
For Ferial and Sam its a true labour of love as they continually
perfect their cheesemaking traditions with a deep understanding
of the chemistry of the milk, avours and aroma.
The seasons of the year, what we feed the cows and the type of
cows themselves all make a huge difference to the cheese, says Sam.

unearthing australias finest


Coles Finest Gippsland Farmhouse Vintage Cheddar is made
using traditional methods, wrapped in cloth and matured for up
to 24 months. Its available at Coles supermarkets nationally.

Lunar New Year

To kick off Chinese Year of the Horse, we asked some of Sydney and Melbournes top Asian chefs
to name their favourite dining spots in their cities and to engage in a little friendly interstate rivalry.

delicious. 143

words Shannon harley, lara zilibowitz & heidi finnane


photography mark roper & nigel lough

2
4

1. Brothers Jason and Michael Lau. 2. Codas Hervey


Bay scallops. 3. Late-night dining at Supper Inn.
4. Flower Drum. Previous page (clockwise from
far left): Sydneys Mr. Wong; Paddys Market; Codas
crab, chilli & lime betel leaf; Melbournes Chinatown;
Chow Bar & Eating House; The Century; tempura
udon at Nama Nama; Emperors Garden butcher.

Jason & Michael lau


While theyve gained a following for their ma po tofu since
opening Laus Family Kitchen (4 Acland St, St Kilda, (03) 8598
9880) seven years ago, brothers Jason and Michael have
restaurant pedigree in their blood. My father, Gilbert, opened
Flower Drum (17 Market Ln, Melbourne,
(03) 9662 3655) in 1975, says Michael. And
even though he sold the restaurant in 2003,
its still where the Lau family head for
special occasions. Its great for parties and
has good food and service, he says. I love
the Peking duck, I would go just for that.
For a quick bite thats more traditional,
the brothers head to Crystal Jade
(154 Little Bourke St, Melbourne, (03) 9639
2633), a Hong Kong-style eatery. They do good barbecue pork,
noodles, seafood and all the Chinese classics, says Jason.
One of their former waiters recently opened EC Kitchen
(1 Sir John Monash Dr, Cauleld East, (03) 9571 7665), which
has a casual student vibe. Its simple and cheap with a focus
on noodle bowls, says Jason, who recommends the wonton
soup. I Love Pho (264 Victoria St, Richmond, (03) 9427 7749)
is another favourite for noodles (Victor Liong, see opposite,

agrees). The family who own it is well known and have a


cult following, says Michael. Its fast and fresh, and theres
always a line, but you only wait for about 15 minutes. I order
the combination pho, and they also have really good chilli
sauce, says Jason. Also worth queuing for are the dumplings
at Shanghai Street Dumpling (342 Little Bourke St, Melbourne,
(03) 9600 2250). They have every kind of dumpling and bun
you can imagine. Victor is also a regular here, naming the
pan-fried dumplings the best in the city.
Stephen Lo, who has also worked with
the Lau family, has recently taken over
and reinvented Ants Bistro (7 Corrs Ln,
Melbourne, (03) 9639 2908). Stephen
learnt a lot from our father and hes taken
on a lot of what we do, especially with his
use of fresh produce to create good clean
food. Its a great hidden gem.
The brothers recommend Coda
(141 Flinders Ln, Melbourne, (03) 9650 3155) for a crowd
because chef Adam DSylvas French-Vietnamese menu of
mostly small bites ofers something diferent, says Jason.
The signature dish roasted yellow duck curry is amazing.
Supper Inn (15 Celestial Ave, Melbourne, (03) 9663 4759)
in Chinatown may be hard to nd, but the brothers say its a
Melbourne institution for late-night dining. We go with a group
after work and order the salt and pepper squab, says Michael.

Supper Inn is
a Melbourne
institution for
late-night dining.

locavore.

2
5

1. Nama Nama. 2. Chef Victor Liong. 3. Neil Perrys Spice Temple


at The Crown. 4. Japanese restaurant Izakaya Den. 5. Lee Ho Fooks
elegant raw ocean trout and jellysh salad.

Victor Liong

After working at Marque and Mr. Wong in Sydney, 28-year


old Victor recently moved to Melbourne to open new-style
Chinese diner Lee Ho Fook (92 Smith St, Collingwood,
(03) 9077 6261). When hes not busy in his own kitchen
hes exploring the best Asian eats in his new hometown.
I go to Izakaya Den (114 Russell St, Melbourne,
(03) 9654 2977) at least once a month, says Victor,
whose go-to dishes include grilled ox
tongue, stir-fried eel with water spinach
and mushrooms, scallops with garlic soy
butter, duck liver pt with wonton skins
and Japanese omelette with cod roe.
For a taste of home, Victor whose
grandparents are Chinese and parents
were born in Malaysia heads to Mamak
(366 Lonsdale St, Melbourne, (03) 9670
3137). The roti and thin curry gravies will always remind me
of my childhood in Southeast Asia, the formica tables and the
waiters wearing Crocs make it authentic. Get the teh tarik,
a frothy milk-based tea, or Milo made with condensed milk.
Pacic Seafood BBQ House (210 Toorak Rd, South Yarra,
(03) 9826 3838) oaers a huge variety of seafood and roasted
meats. Victor says their roast duck, char siu and roasted pork
belly are oa the chain. He also recommends the chicken ribs
with salted egg yolk sauce from the a la carte menu. Chinese

barbecue has got to be one of the best in the world. The unique
cooking techniques add tremendous depth of avour, he says.
For rened Cantonese cooking, Victors pick is Flower Drum.
Its hands down the best Chinese restaurant experience
in Australia, he says. Their stir-fried
pearl meat with spring onions and white
garlic chives is an example of perfection
lying in simplicity, but my favourite dish
is not actually on the menu and made on
request. Its crabmeat soup dumplings
they kill and cook the crab to order.
According to Victor, the ramen game
in Melbourne is still early days, but
udon is perfected at Nama Nama (31 Spring St, Melbourne,
(03) 9649 9500). Their noodles are silky and their broths
clean and avoursome. Small pony glasses of tap beers
for $5 accompanying great noodles, whats not to love?
When hes heading out for a big night, Victors choice
is Neil Perrys Melbourne outpost of Spice Temple (The Crown,
Southbank, (03) 8679 1888). Its a slick restaurant with a large
menu oaering great variety and a fantastic drinks list. I could
drink their Rickshaw cocktails all day long, says Victor.

Chinese barbecue
has got to be the
best in the world.

delicious. 145

1
4

1. Chef Dan Hong. 2. The


sophisticated atmosphere
of The Century at The Star.
3. Arisuns fried chicken and
beer. 4. Eric Kohs fresh-steamed
dumplings at Mr. Wong. opposite:
Momofuku Seiobo at The Star.

Dan Hong
The hipster chef, who grew up in a restaurateur family, has
helped reinvent Chinese dining in Sydney. When he clocks
oc from his roles as executive chef at
Mr. Wong (3 Bridge Ln, Sydney, (02) 9240
3000), Manlys new Papi Chulo, Ms. Gs and
El Loco, he heads to Korean restaurant
Arisun (1 Dixon St, Sydney, (02) 9264 1588),
known for its fried chicken, beer jugs, soju
shots and K-pop. They make their own
noodles, but the real attraction is the fried
chicken says Dan. Another top late-night
spot is quaint Eaton Chinese Restaurant
(313 Liverpool Rd, Asheld, (02) 9798 2332). I come here
to escape the hustle of Chinatown. They do really good
live seafood and crispy-skinned fried pigeon, says Dan.
I call it the poor mans Golden Century.
Speaking of which, Golden Century (393 Sussex St,
Haymarket, (02) 9212 3901), is a hop from Dans CBD home, and
his pick for traditional Cantonese. Owners Eric and his wife

Linda have been doing the same food for the past 24 years and
its still the best place to have live seafood, says Dan. Their
steamed lobster with XO sauce is one of my top dishes, and
their salt and pepper mud crab the best Ive ever had. Golden
Century is one of the biggest inuences for Mr. Wong. Eric
and Lindas son Billy opened The Century (The Star, Pyrmont,
(02) 9566 2328), which has a similar menu to the original, but
with a more sophisticated atmosphere. The best dish is
stir-fried lobster with ginger and spring onion, says Dan.
While the rest of us are buying our morning latte, Dan is at
Happy Chef (Sussex Centre Food Court,
Haymarket), which specialises in noodle
soups. His order: Number 1 ($8), a
Cambodian noodle soup with pork, beef,
prawns, blood jelly, pigs liver, choy sum
and spring onion in a clear broth. This
place is always buzzing. Their laksa
is one of the best in town, says Dan.
When it comes to specialty dishes,
Dan has a soft spot for the Peking duck
at Lao Zhou Good Luck Chinese Restaurant (180 Liverpool Rd,
Eneld, (02) 9747 4625). You have to pre-order the duck and let
the chef know what time youre coming in, as he will only serve
it fresh from the oven, says Dan. Mr. Wongs dumpling chef Eric
Koh steams everything to order. Eric is a dim sum master. Hes
worked at Hakkasan in London and Lei Garden in Singapore,
and continually comes up with the best avour combinations.

Golden Century
is one of the
biggest inuences
for Mr. Wong.

146 delicious.

locavore.

locavore.

2
4

1. Chef Chui Lee Luk. 2. Tsuke-men deconstructed ramen from


Ramen Ikkyu. 3. Fresh produce at Paddys Market. 4. Sydneys new
restaurant Chow Bar & Eating House. 5. Thai restaurant @ Bangkok.
5
4

Chui Lee Luk

Despite swapping her ne-diner Claudes for the more relaxed


Chow Bar & Eating House (320 Crown St, Surry Hills,
(02) 8095 9058), Chui Lee Luk, who grew
up in Sabah, Malaysia, still appreciates
a big ticket dinner at Momofuku Seiobo
(The Star, Sydney, (02) 9777 9000).
The food and service are consistently
wonderful, and they have a great wine list,
says Chui, whose favourite dish is wagyu
with Korean-style black bean sauce and
radish. I like sitting at the bar watching
the chefs calmly preparing each dish.
When shes in the mood for the classics, Emperors Garden
(96 Hay St, Haymarket, (02) 9211 2135) is the old-style Chinese
restaurant that Chui always returns to. I like the roasted meats,
such as pork with crackling, as only the Chinese know how to
make, char siu and roast duck. Their butcher next door, is also
Dan Hongs go-to place for good-quality pork at bargain prices.
Another favourite she shares with Dan is Chinese Noodle
House (8 Quay St, Haymarket, (02) 9281 4508) for their

zha jiang mian, the northern-Chinese answer to spaghetti


bolognese thick noodles topped with stir-fried pork mince.
For a taste of home, Chui likes Alices Makan (580, George
St, Sydney, (02) 9262 7771) for their assortment of kuihs (sweet
Malaysian steamed rice cakes), which you have to reserve before
ordering your main meal. I really like the char kway teow,
which is famous Malaysian hawker fare of stir-fried rice noodles
with a selection of toppings including prawns, Chinese sausage,
eggs and bean sprouts. Another specialty that reminds Chui
of Southeast Asia are the moreish peanut pancakes at
Bakso House (341 Anzac Parade, Kingsford, (02) 9662 3706).
Ramen Ikkyu (401 Sussex St, Haymarket,
(02) 9281 0998) in Chinatown is best
for noodles. Tsuke-men (a deconstructed
ramen, where the noodles and toppings
are served in a separate bowl to the soup)
is my favourite style as its light but lling,
and has an intense acidity to it. And
when noodles wont cut it, Chui heads to
@ Bangkok (730 George St, Haymarket,
(02) 9211 5232). They serve fantastic
deep-fried sh and deep-fried chicken. Plus theres a band
playing until close. Im slowly learning the Thai Top 40!
For ingredients, Chui likes Jasmine Asian Supermarket
(194 Burwood Rd, Burwood, (02) 9715 6868) with staf who
have an encyclopaedic knowledge of the items they stock;
Dong Nam A & Co (14 Campbell St, Sydney, (02) 9212 6673)
where she can practice her Cantonese; and for inspiration,
she peruses the produce at Paddys Markets in Haymarket. d.

Chinese Noodle
House serves the
Chinese answer
to bolognese.

148 delicious.

Index
FEBRUARY 2014

STARTERS & LIGHT MEALS


Asparagus, grape & haloumi salad
with vinaigrette (v) ................................18
Baked salt & vinegar potato crisps
and thyme kumara chips (v) ..................71
Beetroot, blue cheese
& maple-roasted walnut salad (v) .........72
Crab & watercress soufe tarts .................40
Eggplant al forno (v) ...............................107
Green bean, olive & fennel salad (v).........96
Grilled cucumbers
with almond cream (v).........................103
Grilled haloumi and peaches
with dukkah (v) ......................................86
King prawns with chimichurri....................33
Leek & feta tart (v) ....................................41
Pancetta & herb tart .................................40
Roasted grapes with cheese (v) ..............102
Scallops with bottarga butter
and pancetta.......................................128
MAINS
Barbecued lamb racks ..............................95
Barbecued pizzas........................................7
Barramundi in banana leaf
with coconut rice ..................................54
Captain caveman chops .........................107
Chargrilled baby octopus with
pico de gallo . ........................................52
Chilli crab..................................................54
Chilli soy prawns with ponzu aioli.............50
Chorizo, ricotta & zucchini casarecce .......61
Crispy basil salad
with pork & pickled carrots.................113
Dukkah-crusted lamb cutlets
with strawberry couscous......................63
Garlic & ginger eye llet
with quick cucumber & radish pickle ....65
Jamon-wrapped sardines
with harissa and chickpeas ...................50
Japanese gilled salmon
& seaweed salad.................................114
Lamb with fregola & olive salad .............132
Lobster & ricotta tortelloni with
prosecco & tomato sauce.....................71
Pan-fried blue-eye with
wild rice salad .......................................60

152 delicious.

Peach & pork tacos...................................62


Polenta with mixed mushrooms (v).........132
Pork schnitzel with slaw ............................34
Prawn & noodle salad
with sweet chilli sauce ........................113
Ranchero breakfast tostadas (v)................84
Rib-eye steaks with
lemon, caper & dill butter.....................71
Risotto with perch llets
and sage butter .................................. 130
Rojak with prawns...................................110
Salmon escalopes
with dill & avocado salad......................50
Seafood espetada

SWEET THINGS
Banana & lime soufes with coconut......121
Black sticky rice with mango.....................78
Cardamom panna cotta with rosewater
syrup and pistachio praline...................72
Chocolate & ricotta cups
with walnut crust...................................88
Chocolate smores....................................57
Coconut cream with vanilla granita,
lychees and raspberries ......................136
Coffee granita...........................................36
Dark chocolate jellies
with caramel popcorn.........................121
Flourless chocolate cake & berry trie ...121

(Portuguese skewers) ............................64


Skirt steak with chargrilled vegetables .....92
Slow-cooked oyster blade steak
with tomato relish .................................92
Smoked chicken & g salad .....................59
Spatchcock with
tarragon & garlic butter . ........................96
Spiced millet pilaf with beetroot,
feta and mint (v)....................................84
Toulouse sausage with frisee salad...........95
Vietnamese chargrilled
eggplant salad (v) ............................... 114
Vietnamese chicken salad (goi ga) .........110
Whole baked snapper
with ginger and chilli ............................54
Whole sh with white wine
and green olives .................................128
Zucchini & coconut noodles (v) ................86

Fruit skewers with gingersnap crumbs


and coconut cream ...............................76
Homemade lemonade ice pops...............80
Hummingbird cake with toffee pecans.....80
Macadamia biscuit ice cream sandwiches ..80
Passionfruit & white chocolate eclairs ......72
Peach & cinnamon puff pastry squares ....41
Pears poached in red wine
with ginger semifreddo ......................132
Roasted fruit ...........................................107
Strawberry & rhubarb ripple
frozen yoghurt ......................................88
Yoghurt & berry gelato terrine................121
DRINKS, SIDE DISHES & ExTRAS Bakedblackberry bellini . ...................................107
Pasta dough .............................................71
Raspberry, prosecco & mint cocktail ........71

Thanks
The Test Kitchen uses Scanpan cookware and utensils, Global knives and Cuisinart
small appliances from Sheldon & Hammond. For national stockists, tel: 1800 209 999.

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Agenda
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5.

7. Can do

6.

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7.

8.

secret address book.

Rene Redzepi
The world-renowned Danish chef and co-owner of two-Michelin star
restaurant Noma shares his favourite foodie spots around the globe.
The ingredienT i canT cook wiThouT

BesT place for sMall BiTes?

is I cant pick one specic ingredient,

The salumi, cheeses and pizza from


the bakery at Salumeria Roscioli
(top left) in Rome are unbeatable.

but I would choose vegetables any day.


My choice for a Top Tipple Mikkeller
Beer Bar (above left) in Copenhagen for
their craft beer and cool t-out, or Torst
in Brooklyn, for its 21 beer taps and
restaurant out back Luksus, from chef
Daniel Burn (ex-Noma and Fat Duck).
BesT place for fresh produce? Oaxaca
city markets in southwest Mexico the
bright fruit and vegetables are beyond
anything else you will ever see. It even
dwarfs Barcelonas huge La Boqueria.
BesT place To saTisfy sweeT cravings?

B. Patisserie in San Francisco owned by


pastry chef Belinda Leong is an outstanding
place with great craftsmanship and an open
pastry kitchen. Try her 10-hour apple tart.
My recenT foodie discovery is

the wonderful world of bugs!


favouriTe spoT for a caffeine fix?

Cafe Det Vide Hus, in Copenhagen


for its cosy and laid-back atmosphere,
or Tim Wendelboe (left) espresso bar
in Oslo, which is a micro roaster, training
centre and coffee shop all in one.
154 delicious.

BesT Meal off The BeaTen Track?

Hartwood (left) in Tulum, Mexico. All


the food is prepared by hand there are
no electrical appliances and cooked in
a wood burning oven or on an open grill.
Top spoT for seafood? Rafas, a tiny,
unpretentious spot serving fresh grilled
seafood (a la plancha) in Roses, Spain.
The foodie experience ThaTs BesT To
iMpress? Dragsholm Slot, just outside

Copenhagen, which is actually a baroque


castle, restaurant, hotel and museum in one.
chef To waTch Blaine Wetzel (ex-Noma),
currently at The Willows Inn on Lummi
Island in the United States. Hes a really
smashing individual with great talent.
where i wanT To eaT nexT the hugely
popular and frequently booked-out pub
The Sportsman in Seasalter, England.
who i wanT To cook for nexT my kids.
when i donT feel like cooking

I actually cook every day theres just


no getting around it! d.

or

tf
t se

4
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2

Ge

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