Harper 39 S Bazaar UK - 04 2020
Harper 39 S Bazaar UK - 04 2020
Harper 39 S Bazaar UK - 04 2020
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CONTENTS A PR IL 2020
O N T H E C OV E R
Harper’s Bazaar
208 Hilary Mantel: making history
at Hampton Court Palace
216 Strong & steely: the power
of silver hair
From 156 Best of British: glittering
glamour on the Dorset cliffs &
sculptural style in the Royal Parks
F E AT U R E S
144 AND THE WINNER IS…
Gugu Mbatha-Raw on iconoclastic
beauty queens, the value of TV in
the Time’s Up era and missing the
sound of April showers
208 MISTRESS OF TALES & REVELS
Erica Wagner meets Hilary Mantel
at Hampton Court Palace as the
remarkable ‘Wolf Hall’ trilogy
draws to a close
FA S H I O N
156 SIREN SONG We must go down to
the sea again, in a glorious array of
shimmering metallic gowns
172 CONTRAST & CONQUER Black
and white meet modern and ancient
in supremely stately surroundings
188 FIELD OF DREAMS Celebrate
spring’s rejuvenating energy in natural
linen, leather and poplin pieces
S T Y L E
©
CONTENTS
©
AC C ES S O R I ES
103 FORGET ME NOT Fabulous bags,
shoes and shades rolling back the
years to the Sixties, Seventies
and Eighties
J E W E L L E RY
112 MUSIC OF THE SPHERES Tap
into universal ideas of time, love and
life through elegant new-season
watches and the eloquent words of
six wise women
AT WO R K
125 RICH SEAM Lace your black office
look with opulent glints of gold
126 CAN YOU HELP OTHER
WOMEN TO THE TOP? Viv Groskop
on the vital importance of looking out
for one another in the business world
PHOTOGRAPH: RICHARD PHIBBS. TAMARA ROJO WEARS CHANEL. SEE MAIN STORY AND STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
TA L K I N G P O I N T S
130 MATERIAL WITNESSES As the
V&A launches an exhibition about
the kimono, Rowan Hisayo Buchanan
examines how layers of living history
are sewn into the fabric of these
ancient garments
132 BODY LANGUAGE A thrilling
collaboration between the English
National Ballet’s Tamara Rojo and
the choreographer Akram Khan
marks 70 years of the company’s
incomparable dance
134 FAMILY PORTRAIT A revealing
retrospective at Tate Modern 136 THE LAST WORD Erica Wagner
explores how Andy Warhol’s on a heartwarming documentary
upbringing shaped his distinctive about the groundbreaking
creative outlook American writer Toni Morrison
135 FORCES OF NATURE 137 PERSONAL SPACE Hand-painted
Erdem Moralioglu’s bright and homewares and bespoke
beautiful wallpaper range created furnishings to give your rooms
with de Gournay unique appeal
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CONTENTS
B A Z A A R B E AU T Y
214 NATIONAL TREASURES
Siân Ranscombe assesses the
prospects for Britain’s pampering
products as we depart the EU
216 AMAZING GREYS
How to welcome your changing
hair colour and transform yourself
into a vivacious silver vixen
218 MY MOODBOARD Hermès makes
its first foray into make-up with a
stylish range of colourful lipsticks
ES C A P E
222 NO PLACE LIKE HOME
Enchanting UK destinations, from
Somerset to Braemar
PHOTOGRAPH: REGAN CAMERON. SILK TOP, £5,165; ORGANZA SKIRT, £3,615; STRASS BELT, £700; SATIN SHOES, £1,115, ALL CHANEL. SEE STOCKISTS AND MAIN STORY FOR DETAILS
230 TRAVEL NOTEBOOK The designer
Patricia Gucci on why she loves Tulum
F L A S H !
232 PLAYING TO THE GALLERY
A night of artistic appreciation and
merriment in east London
233 MOVIE MAGIC Leading lights of
the film industry toasted their peers
at a sparkling Mayfair gala
R E G U L A R S
69 EDITOR’S LETTER
72 CONTRIBUTORS
©
Subscribe
to HARPER’S
BAZAAR
For this month’s
subscription offer
turn to page 110
COVER LOOKS Above far left: Gugu Mbatha-Raw wears sequin embroidered dress, £7,040, Gucci. Above near left (subscribers’ cover): toile and velvet dress, £1,660, Prada. Gold earrings, £4,150, Van Cleef &
Arpels. See Stockists for details. Styled by Leith Clark. Hair by Daniel Martin at Bryant Artists, using Evo. Make-up by Kay Montano. Manicure by Ami Streets, using Dior Vernis and Miss Dior Hand Cream.
Photographs by Richard Phibbs. Above near right (limited-edition cover available exclusively at Tate Modern): Marilyn Monroe’s Lips (detail) (1962) by Andy Warhol, Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden,
Smithsonian Institution, Washington, DC, gift of Joseph H Hirshhorn, 1972 © 2020 the Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc/licensed by DACS, London. Above far right (limited-edition cover
available exclusively at the V&A): Madonna wearing a red Jean Paul Gaultier kimono, photographed by Patrick Demarchelier for the February 1999 issue of Harper’s Bazaar
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.COM/UK
FASHION BEAUTY CULTURE TRAVEL BRIDES BAZAAR AT WORK
EYES ON
THE PRIZE
In an exclusive backstage video, our cover star Gugu Mbatha-Raw talks to Bazaar about
hidden talents, superpowers and pursuing her dreams
O N L I N E N OW AT
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Published on 4 March
LYDIA SLATER
Acting editor-in-chief
FASHION
Group luxury fashion director AVRIL MAIR
Global fashion director CARINE ROITFELD
Executive fashion and jewellery director KIM PARKER
Bookings director KIAAN ORANGE
Style director-at-large LEITH CLARK
Senior fashion editors MIRANDA ALMOND, CHARLIE HARRINGTON
Junior fashion editors ROSIE ARKELL-PALMER, TILLY WHEATING, ROSIE WILLIAMS
Acting junior fashion editor HARRIET ELTON
Senior fashion co-ordinator SOPHIE CHAPMAN
Senior fashion assistant HOLLY GORST
Fashion assistant GEORGIA MEDLEY
Fashion intern CRYSTALLE COX
Contributing fashion editors CATHY KASTERINE, FLORRIE THOMAS
FEATURES
Features director HELENA LEE
Entertainment director/associate editor TOM MACKLIN
Senior editor/group luxury travel director LUCY HALFHEAD
Commissioning editor CHARLOTTE BROOK
Contributing literary editor ERICA WAGNER
ART
Associate editor HANNAH RIDLEY Design director AMY GALVIN
Art editor LEANNE ROBSON
Designers AMY BLACKER, KRISTINA HARRISON
PICTURES
Photography director RACHEL LOUISE BROWN
Picture editor LIZ PEARN
Picture researcher OLIVIA KEATING
COPY
Sub-editor/entertainment writer YASMIN OMAR Sub-editor/features writer BROOKE THEIS
WEBSITE
Digital editor SARAH KARMALI
Deputy digital editor ELLA ALEXANDER
Digital fashion editor AMY DE KLERK Digital beauty director BRIDGET MARCH
Social media editor NATALIE SALMON Digital writer JESSICA DAVIS
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
LISA ARMSTRONG, SOPHIE BLOOMFIELD, MARISSA BOURKE, ELIZABETH DAY,
SOPHIE ELMHIRST, TERESA FITZHERBERT, ANNA MURPHY, JULIE MYERSON,
JULIET NICOLSON, ANDREW O’HAGAN, JUSTINE PICARDIE,
CATHERINE ST GERMANS, SASHA SLATER, PETER WATSON
Harper’s Bazaar ISSN 0141-0547 is published monthly (12 times a year) by Hearst UK c/o Express Mag,
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Harper’s Bazaar is distributed by Frontline Ltd, Peterborough (01733 555161). Sole agents for Australia and
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Copyright © Hearst Magazines UK, April 2020, Issue No 4/20. We regret that any free gifts, supplements,
books or other items included with the magazine when it is sold in the UK are not available
with copies purchased outside the UK.
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Published on 4 March
JACQUELINE EUWE
Chief brand officer
Executive assistant to the chief brand officer LEANE BORDER-GRIFFITH
HEARST UK
Chief executive officer, Hearst UK/President, Hearst Europe JAMES WILDMAN
Chief financial, operations and data officer, Hearst Europe CLAIRE BLUNT
Chief operating officer, Hearst Europe GIACOMO MOLETTI
Chief strategy officer ROBERT FFITCH
Chief commercial officer JANE WOLFSON
Chief people officer, Hearst Europe SURINDER SIMMONS
Chief content development officer BETSY FAST
Hearst Magazines UK, the trading name of the National Magazine Company Ltd,
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Harper’s Bazaar is fully protected by copyright, and nothing may be reprinted wholly or in part without permission.
EDITOR’S LETTER
Below: a Celine by
Hedi Slimane look
from ‘Field of dreams’
(page 188)
M E
I
OF T
PHOTOGRAPHS: EMMA HARDY, AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA, ILLUSTRATION ERTÉ © SEVENARTS LTD
EDITOR’S LETTER
£3,475
De Beers final volume, The Mirror & the Light, the writer has granted a
rare audience to our literary editor Erica Wagner, accompanied
by a dramatic photo-shoot in Hampton Court Palace, where
From a selection
her Tudor protagonist once held sway. The result is a unique
Chaumet celebration of the crossover between art, fashion and literature
in the greatest tradition of this magazine.
April is our ‘Best of British’ issue, so it feels particularly
£2,990 £650 timely that I write this on the evening that Britain officially
Michael Kors Michael Kors leaves the EU. Looking through these pages will, I hope, serve
Collection Collection
as a reminder that whatever one’s feelings about Brexit may be,
SILK DRESS, £5,300, DIOR. SEE MAIN STORY AND STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS. PHOTOGRAPHS: RICHARD PHIBBS
we can surely all unite in agreement that there is so much to
celebrate about this ‘scepter’d isle’. The beauty of the British
E D I TO R ’ S landscape and its ancient buildings is highlighted here in three
£350
C H O I C ES glorious fashion shoots, set respectively amid the Palladian
Michael Kors
grandeur of Chiswick House, surrounded by land art in
Collection
★ Richmond Park, and during a golden day on the loveliest
The arrival of spring often sees part of the Dorset coast. Meanwhile, the most cosseting
me commuting on foot. This chic boutique hotels around the country are highlighted on
£1,405 Michael Kors tailored coat and jeans can the travel pages for anyone contemplating a luxurious
Prada cope with whatever the weather throws holiday on these shores. And for those Britons who
at me, and I’ll stride out stylishly in live elsewhere, our cover star Gugu Mbatha-Raw
Prada’s elegant riding boots, with offers a novel method of staving off homesickness: she
my necessities in Fendi’s fills a bath with Epsom salts and lies back to a soundtrack
jaunty tote. of pouring rain…
£5,050
De Beers £1,690
Fendi
Lydia Slater
PS: Don’t miss the chance to subscribe to Harper’s Bazaar
– turn to page 110 for this month’s offer.
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CONTRIBUTORS
H I L A RY
M A N T E L
‘I always have the feeling of him
questioning and working
against the grain,’ says Mantel
of Thomas Cromwell, the
central character in her
monumental ‘Wolf Hall’
trilogy. To mark the publication
of her much anticipated final
instalment, The Mirror &
the Light, she appears in a R OWA N H I S AYO
photo-shoot at Hampton Court B U C H A N A N
Palace, and speaks to Erica
Wagner about saying goodbye
Page 130
WORDS BY BROOKE THEIS. PHOTOGRAPHS: ELS ZWEERINK, COURTESY OF TAMARA ROJO, PAUL HARDWICK. GUGU MBATHA-RAW PHOTOGRAPHED BY RICHARD PHIBBS.
M B AT H A - R AW A garden you love ‘Caerhays, acclaimed novels, Harmless Like
Cornwall: a woodland estate You and last year’s Starling Days,
Page 144
with a gorgeous magnolia and has also edited a collection
Born in Oxfordshire, the actress display in early spring.’ of stories by Asian-American
moved to London to study at What would you do if you were writers, titled Go Home!.
Rada aged 18. She has since queen for a day? ‘Abdicate.’ Ahead of the V&A’s latest
starred in television series such Favourite Briton ‘Cardinal TA M A R A exhibition ‘Kimono: Kyoto
as Netflix’s Emmy-winning Wolsey. It would be ungracious R O J O to Catwalk’, she describes the
Black Mirror, and films including to say otherwise, as the pictures meaning these traditional
Beauty and the Beast, Motherless [on page 208] were taken
Page 132
garments carry for her.
Brooklyn and her latest project at his house.’ The artistic director and lead A garden you love ‘Does
Misbehaviour, which sees her North, south, east or principal dancer of the English Highgate Wood count? I delight
play the first black woman west? ‘North, for the light.’ National Ballet, who was in the dapple, the rush of dogs,
to win the Miss World Best thing about Britain awarded a CBE in 2016, has even the parents trying to coax
competition. Here, she talks to ‘Her seascapes.’ played iconic characters from their toddlers up the hill.’
Lydia Slater about taking Giselle to the Sugar Plum Fairy,
¯
Page 208
Fish and chips or a cream
on challenging roles and while also ushering in a new tea? ‘Scampi and chips on the
campaigning for feminism. chapter for the company in beach with seagulls fighting
A garden you love ‘My mum’s making dance accessible to you for their share. Victory
back garden in Witney, where contemporary audiences. makes the salt taste better.’
I first planted strawberries and In this issue, she tells Helena Favourite Briton ‘My brother,
tomatoes, and we had barbecues Lee about her forthcoming although he doesn’t live here
– there are so many happy collaboration with Akram Khan. anymore. Everyone’s Britain is a
memories associated with it.’ A garden you love ‘Regent’s different place – their own map
HAIR BY BJORN KRISCHKER. MAKE-UP BY TANIA GRIER
What would you do if Park – it’s just beautiful.’ of memories. But his Britain is
you were queen for a day? What would you do if you close enough to mine that
‘I would throw a massive party were queen for a day? ‘Give passing stories between
at Buckingham Palace and let free access to theatre, museums, ourselves feels like home.’
everyone have a poke around.’ art galleries and cinemas. But Best thing about Britain
Fish and chips or a cream tea? just for one day, because artists ‘I take pleasure in how our
‘A cream tea. Cream before jam.’ do need to make a living.’ latitude exaggerates the
Favourite Briton ‘Paddington Fish and chips or a cream stretching and shrinking of
Bear, even though he’s Peruvian tea? ‘Fish and chips.’ days. There is a kind of majesty
– because he’s so cute.’ Favourite Briton to these changes of light.’
‘Nick Hytner, for so many
amazing reasons…’
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PHOTOGRAPH: ERIK MADIGAN HECK
A P P LY FO R M E M B E R S H I P N OW AT
STYLE
1
NEON
NIGHTS
Bright, bold and
unapologetically
look-at-me: the shade of
the season is loud.
Cotton top, about £500; silk
dress, about £2,300; cotton
tights, about £165; calf-skin
bag, about £1,550;
calf-skin heels, about £830,
all Versace
THINGS
WE
From patterns that pop to all-weather leather, discover
spring’s most covetable looks
LOVE
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THE SILK
SCARF
Consider Her Maj as your
style icon one more time…
Silk scarf, from a
selection Hermès
SUMMER
L E AT H E R
STYLE
4
THE
BUCKET BAG
Add interest to a
beige palette with
a playful colour pop –
pink is a vibrant choice.
Leather and canvas
bag, £1,250 Fendi
THE HIGHER
HEMLINE
For those who prefer
a more tomboyish
take on the season’s
shorter length…
Wool skirt, £320; chiffon
shirt, £635, both Sportmax
RAFFIA SANDALS
Get crafty with rustic chic – natural is all you need.
Cotton sandals, £530; leather and brass bag, £2,350; jute and brass belt,
£760; rhodonite necklace, £570, all Dior
STYLE
STYLE
10
M I S M ATC H E D
PRINTS
Bring monochrome up
to date by not joining
the dots (or spots,
or stripes).
Crepe de Chine blazer,
£820; cotton jersey top,
£210; crepe de Chine
culottes, £555,
all Max Mara
MANICURE BY AMI STREETS, USING PEACCI BY THE GELBOTTLE INC. STYLIST’S ASSISTANT: GEORGIA MEDLEY. MODEL: ESTELLA BRONS AT NEXT LONDON
SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS. HAIR BY HIROSHI MATSUSHITA, USING ORIBE. MAKE-UP BY ANITA KEELING AT ONE REPRESENTS, USING GIORGIO ARMANI.
T H E U P DAT E D
CLASSIC
Because sometimes a handbag is made to
stand the test of time…
Leather bag, £1,005 Max Mara. Leather
boots, from a selection Saint Laurent
by Anthony Vaccarello
STYLE
MY MOODBOARD
Grazia Malagoli on the five decades of colourful vivacity
that inspired Sportmax’s special anniversary collection
Above, right
and bottom:
looks from
the collection
STYLE
MY
LIFE,
MY
STYLE
Dior’s Rachele Regini has
adorned her Chelsea home
with colourful artworks and
feminist literature that inspire
her diverse wardrobe
By LUCY HALFHEAD
Photographs by JOSH SHINNER
STYLE
STYLE
SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS. STYLED BY GEORGIA MEDLEY. HAIR BY MATHIEU SIMO. MAKE-UP BY JAMIE COOMBES, USING DIOR. PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF RACHELE REGINI
all Dior. Above:
a photograph of
Regini’s parents Attilio Codognato, charms by
Samuel François and studs from
Maria Tash. ‘I love the Seventies, and
Anita Pallenberg, but what I wear
changes depending on where I am,’
she says. ‘In Paris, I’m more conven-
tionally feminine than London, where
I dress more punk. In Rome, it’s
relaxed and laid-back. I think it makes
a difference for young people to see
that there’s not just one model of what
being female looks like.’
RACHELE’S WORLD
Eight Hour
Cream Intensive £1,290
Secret Lip Repair Dior
Camouflage, Balm, £20
£28.50 Laura Elizabeth Arden
Mercier Hat,
Reverence £550
Aromatique Dior
Hand Wash,
£27 Aesop
From a
selection
Dior
£2,000
Dior
GIFT
PHOTOGRAPHS: KRISTIN VICARI, LUCKY IF SHARP. *GIFT AVAILABLE WITH NEWSSTAND COPIES ONLY
WORTH
£12.50*
THE MAY
ISSUE, ‘Dramatic lengthening
and thickening without smudging,
ON SALE
flaking or fading’
KATY YOUNG Beauty director
2 APRIL
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T H E S T Y L E G U I D E
NO 1
Let loose
Oversize tonal tie-dye
is the ultimate in casual
cool. Team it with a
patchwork suede
bag for carefree
practicality.
GLOBE
TROTTER
Travel the world with free-spirited flair in natural fabrics and eye-catching patterns
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOSH SHINNER STYLED BY FLORRIE THOMAS
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NO 2
Chain
reaction
An all-cream outfit is
elegantly elevated by
a gleaming gold
link necklace.
STYLE
NO 3
NO 4
Cover
all bases
A floaty bohemian kaftan will
carry you effortlessly from dawn
to dusk – add charm with a
talismanic necklace.
JOSH SHINNER
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NO 5
Blanket
statement
Try a light quilted
jacket for a more
wearable take on the
duvet-coat trend.
JOSH SHINNER
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STYLE
Pockets of time
Colourful embroidery inspired by Aztec motifs offers a playful geometric touch.
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STYLE
NO 7
Hats off
A floppy wide-brim crafted from paper lends an artisanal edge to any ensemble.
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WORDS BY BROOKE THEIS. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS. HAIR BY YOSHITAKA MITAZAKI, USING BUMBLE AND BUMBLE. MAKE-UP BY VICTORIA BOND, USING CHANEL DESERT DREAMS AND LE LIFT. STYLIST’S ASSISTANT: SOPHIE CHAPMAN. MODEL: ANA FLAVIA AT VIVA LONDON
Burch. Leather sandals, £635,
Manolo Blahnik. Leather and
raffia bag, £325, Gerard Darel.
Gold and diamond earrings,
£1,500, Annoushka. Gold ring,
£1,895, Cassandra Goad
NO 8
Adorning
fans
Tiers of pretty pleats
perfectly accent a
delicately tactile lace
and cotton dress.
JOSH SHINNER
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ACCESSORIES
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ME NOT
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Fendi
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Fendi
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Hermès
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Ralph & Russo
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Erdem
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Suryo
£1,520
Ralph Lauren £510
Collection Alberta
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Loewe
£665 Brooch,
Manolo £750
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Vuitton
£295
Chloé
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Scarf, about Fendi
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BOOGIE NIGHTS
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of disco heels
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Miu Miu
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from a
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Emporio Prada
Armani
£188 £665
Christian £480
Miu Miu
Louboutin The Attico x Linda Farrow
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£1,100
Saint Laurent
£1,890 by Anthony
Alexander Vaccarello
£910 McQueen
Chanel
Earrings, £525
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Necklace,
Vaccarello
£620
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www.harpersbazaar.com/uk H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
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BACK TO
THE FUTURE
Hit rewind with Louis Vuitton’s
nostalgic video-cassette bag
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ACCESSORIES
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Hermès
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Erdem
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Salvatore
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by Anthony
Vaccarello
£1,440
Prada Ring, about
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Givenchy
£3,995 £330
Chanel Celine by £3,100 £430
Hedi Slimane Dior Fendi
£225
Ring, £240 Miu Miu
Dior £1,850
Bottega Veneta
Belt bag,
about £830
£990 Givenchy
Celine by Hedi
Slimane
£645
Louis Vuitton
£1,100
Celine by Hedi
Slimane
£279
Fendi
Bracelet, £350
£590 Saint Laurent
Fendi by Anthony
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Vaccarello
£695
Manolo Blahnik
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Fendi
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MUSIC OF THE
SPHER ES
Time and space interweave in a harmonious portfolio
of watches and the wisdom of women
Photographs by LARA JADE
Omega
CREPE DE CHINE DRESS, ABOUT £1,400, GIVENCHY
All prices
throughout from
a selection, except
Edited by KIM PARKER where stated
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JEWELLERY
Rolex
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JEWELLERY
LARA JADE
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Patek Philippe
LARA JADE
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JEWELLERY
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Right: Gucci.
Below: Hermès
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JEWELLERY
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JEWELLERY
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CLOQUÉ
PHOTOGRAPH: £1,080, EMILIA WICKSTEAD. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS. HAIR BY ANASTASIA STYLIANOV AT THE ONLY AGENCY, USING MOROCCANOIL. MAKE-UP BY AMY
DRESS,XXXXXX
BRANDON. MANICURE BY SABRINA GAYLE AT THE WALL GROUP. SET DESIGN BY JACKI CASTELLI AT LALALAND ARTISTS. MODEL: NADIA ARAUJO AT SELECT LONDON
£14,550,
From left:
Blancpain
Richard Mille.
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AT WORK
£240
Bottega
Veneta
K
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L
U
P ho PA
tog ra ph b y Wallet, about £400
Givenchy
iPhone cover,
£150
Balenciaga
From a
From a
selection
selection
Harry
Boodles
Winston
RICH SEAM
Strike gold with a precious vein of gilded accents running £895
CH Carolina
through an elegant coal-black business look Herrera
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- REPORT-
Q:CAN
YOU HELP
OTHER
WOMEN TO
THE TOP?
A: O In a society where professional
opportunities still tend to be dominated by
ne of the most memorable films about women and
work is All About Eve, starring Bette Davis as Margo
Channing, a Broadway star whose career is threatened
by a young rival, Eve Harrington, played by Anne Baxter.
men, supporting our female colleagues and It’s the classic story of an elegant, inevitable bitch fight between
two women who could have worked brilliantly together. Instead,
making productive connections may be the they have to hate each other and the message is: ‘This town ain’t
route to gender equality in the workplace big enough for the both of us.’ The film, which was also recently
adapted into a theatre production starring Gillian Anderson and
Lily James, concludes that if women are to succeed, it will only
By VIV GROSKOP be one at a time. Anything you win will be at the expense of some-
one else and you will have to destroy her to get it – a storyline
that also plays out, somewhat gleefully, in the multi-award-winning
2018 drama The Favourite.
Delicious and entertaining as I find such stories, I think they
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AT WORK
careers, when they could easily have been rivals. Both Booker
Prize winners, Margaret Atwood and Bernardine Evaristo
have long been noted for championing debut writers. Phoebe
Waller-Bridge continues to work with Vicky Jones, the director
of the original Edinburgh run of Fleabag, and Olivia Colman
has used many of her award speeches to credit the work of her
female co-stars.
Social media and the rise of face-to-face women’s networks
in numerous companies are also helping to foster the idea that
none of us has to do anything alone. When you need help, it’s
far easier now to find someone and ask them than it was, say, 10
years ago. The trick is to do so responsibly and courteously.
Think about how you would want to be asked and what it would
have made us swallow a nasty, untrue narrative about female take you to say yes. Learn to respect people’s time and send
ambition. The trouble is, we rarely hear the antidote to tales of (very) short emails. Be graceful in the face of indifference –
Machiavellian women hampering one another’s success. In my and of ‘no’, too. Think as much as you can about what you can
experience, in real life we are not especially comfortable shaft- easily and painlessly do for others, and do it without an agenda.
ing others to get what we want; in fact, we are more likely to get Send thank-you notes. Let people know when they helped you.
a kick out of helping them. In the words of Serena Williams, ‘the It’s also good to be upfront. Ask younger colleagues ‘What
success of every woman should be an inspiration to another’. can I do to help you out?’, and be honest with them about what
I only got my first break in writing is realistic and what is pie in the sky. You
when I was doing work experience on a may not be able to get them a job or a
magazine because a young editor took We are usually taught pay rise, but you can connect them with
the time to talk to me and trusted me someone in your circle with whom you
to help her with her workload. That to mistrust one think they would have a good conversa-
was on Cosmopolitan 25 years ago, and
the woman was Kath Viner, now the
another – an attitude tion. The more straightforward you are
about this, the easier it is. So many
first female editor of The Guardian. I’ve that makes little potential moments of support are poi-
lost count of the women who have given soned by someone thinking, ‘Is this
me an email address or an introduction sense in a working person networking because they want
when I desperately needed it. Yes, there
are male colleagues who have done a
world that is still something out of me?’ Anything any of
us can do to make connections genuine
lot for me too. But I particularly notice terribly unequal is worthwhile; be clear that the intro-
and appreciate such generosity from duction is being made because these
my female counterparts because we two people really are like-minded, not
are usually taught to mistrust one another – an attitude that because it is a transaction or a deal.
makes little sense in a working world that is still terribly unequal. I recently interviewed Aline Santos, the vice-president of
In Silicon Valley, just 11 per cent of senior executives are marketing at Unilever, for my podcast How to Own the Room. She
women, according to the research group Inspiring Women in told me about how, during her early career back in the 1980s,
PHOTOGRAPH: AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA
Technology. The recent Opportunity Insights project at Harvard she wore glasses and men’s blazers to look more serious, and
showed that, currently, about 41 per cent of men will out-earn even put on aftershave to avoid distracting her male colleagues
their father, compared with only one in four women. And last with perfume. Times have changed, and now we expect to
year, the World Economic Forum warned that it will take succeed as ourselves – not to have to blaze a lone trail wearing
100 years to achieve gender equality. Clearly, as women we borrowed clothes. I like to think that nowadays Eve Harrington
have a lot to gain by ‘lifting’ each other as we climb. wouldn’t stalk Margo and try to oust her. Instead, they’d form
The good news is that today’s society abounds with stories of a production company and succeed together.
women who are doing exactly this. Tina Fey and Amy Poehler ‘Lift As You Climb: Women and the Art of Ambition’ by Viv Groskop
have spoken about their support for each other through their (£12.99, Transworld) is out now.
TALKING POINTS
A detail of a
woman’s kimono
from the 1800s
THREADS
OF TIME
PHOTOGRAPH: © KHALILI COLLECTION
The emotive power of the kimono down the centuries. Plus: the
English National Ballet marks 70 years with a daring new production; a fresh
perspective on Andy Warhol; and a life-affirming Toni Morrison documentary
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TALKING POINTS
Right: Rowan
Hisayo Buchanan’s
great-grandmother.
Below, far right: a
detail of a kimono
made in India in
about 1700 for the
Dutch market
MATERIAL from a
19th-century
triptych showing
kimono fabrics.
WITNESSES Below: a
woman’s
short-sleeve
T
he first kimono I kimono (kosode)
saw hung as art was
Ahead of the V&A’s vibrant
above a staircase. exhibition uncovering the history
The arms were out-
stretched like the wooden Jesus
of the kimono, Rowan Hisayo Buchanan
I’d seen in museums, or my mother reflects on the personal stories
when she wanted me to run to her. It
was tangerine silk. A flock of finely
that are woven into these photographs. It seemed both
embroidered cranes, white-winged and red- garments wonderful and entirely foreign,
capped, flung into flight across it. The light like a dragon perching unexpect-
caught their feathers. I wanted to touch it, to press my edly in a London house.
face against it. But it was beyond my reach. Perhaps as an adult, Another memory: sitting on the dark parquet floor
I might have been able to grab the hem. It hovered above the hands of my grandparents’ apartment in New York. My grand-
of the child who did not yet know her multiplication tables. father is unwell and it is hard for us to go out. So, we
Later, I asked my mother why it was there. She replied that the linger indoors. On the table is a bowl of fruit cut for me.
house owners, an English couple, had spent many years in Japan. My All day the television is set to the NHK, the Japan-
mother had not understood my question. What ese version of the BBC. My mother
I had meant was more sweeping: why would you is translating the period drama as
hang clothes on a wall rather than wear them? we watch. There is a rivalry between
Why was it so beautiful, who had made such a two court ladies, one rich and cruel,
thing, who had worn it, was there a chance that one poorer but good. They encounter each other
I would someday stroke the backs of those birds? by chance on a narrow wooden walkway. The
Perhaps the mistress of the house might have rich woman says to the poor: ‘Nice kimono.’
answered such questions, but I was a little intimi- My mother explains this is an insult. The
dated – she was a creature of gold and glitter. poorer woman has not been able to update her
I could not, at the time, relate that finery to the kimono with the season. I am confused. My
kimono I’d seen on my dead relatives in faded mother tells me that in Japan at that time, the
patterns of your kimono matched the season: maple leaf for autumn,
plum blossom for winter, and so on. This unfortunate woman is out CULTURE
of season and out of place.
Later, I will realise that the garment my grandfather was wearing
was also a kimono – though it had no seasonal motif. On the rare
H O NOUR
occasions we go out, he will, with pain and effort, ease into beige
trousers and a polo shirt. But in the apartment, he wears his yukata OF ge’s blue plaques
– a thin, unlined kimono, cotton not silk. He wears it over loose
S rita pay
He age to a roll-cal
E
pyjamas. It is not chosen for fashion or to impress, but because it is
m l of
sh
comfortable and light. Heart surgery has left him tired. This kimono o
BA DG
h h
gli
will never be exhibited. Yet, it feels closest to the meaning of the
En
er
oin
term. Break down the parts of kimono and you get wearing
plus thing . It’s a simple word, suited to his humble garment. Now By CATRIONA GRAY
es
he is gone, his bones are no longer able to hold
up any fabric. In his funeral portrait, he is Take a stroll around central London and you’re bound
wearing a suit, but a decade after his death, I to spot one of English Heritage’s iconic blue plaques,
long to loop the yukata’s indigo cloth around which mark the former homes of famous novelists,
my hands. artists and all manner of changemakers. Each year, a
The reason these kimono memories have handful of new names are announced, but in 2020 all
flown into my head is that, this spring, there is of the commemorative signs will be dedicated to
an exhibition coming to the V&A that promises women for the first time since the scheme began.
to show us the garment from 1660 to the present There’s the Hampstead property of the sculptor
day. I’m intrigued by the catalogue. It describes Barbara Hepworth, the Westminster headquarters of
the ways kimono allowed wearers to display two major suffragette organisations, and the Cam-
their stories: who they were, what they aspired den townhouse that once belonged to Helen
to, the rules they flouted and the lines they toed. Gwynne-Vaughan. A little-known figure
There’s one story about a 17th-century mer- who lived an extraordinary life, Gwynne-
chant who had his lands and houses confiscated Vaughan shunned the traditional route of
by the shogun due to his wife’s inappropriately a Victorian debutante to become a trail-
extravagant kimono. I learn that in the Edo blazing scientist and professor of botany,
period, there was a fashion for red undergar- then went on to head the women’s branch of
ments, and that the bridal headgear from the the British Army at the outbreak of World War II.
same era was called a horn-concealer, owing to Thrillingly, the list is completed by two female
the popular belief that after marriage, the bride spies. The first is Noor Inayat Khan, an Indian princess
would hide her horns of jealousy to be a good wife. Samuel Pepys, who was recruited by British intelligence, captured
eyewitness to the Great Fire of London, was the owner of a kimono- in France while on a government mission and died in
esque garment. David Bowie was inspired by Dachau concentration camp in 1944 aged 30. The
Japanese dress when designing the clothes second, Christine Granville, was a Polish-born secret
for his alter ego Ziggy Stardust, and went so agent who won numerous military honours for her
COURTESY OF ROWAN HISAYO BUCHANAN, © RIJKSMUSEUM, COURTESY OF THE JOSHIBI ART MUSEUM
PHOTOGRAPHS: © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM LONDON, COURTESY OF THE KHALILI COLLECTION,
far as to learn how to apply make-up under bravery and was the inspiration for several heroines in
the guidance of a kabuki actor. Ian Fleming’s James Bond novels, including the double
I think back to that flock of cranes. I agent Vesper Lynd in Casino Royale.
realise it may have been a bridal uchikake – At present, only a minority of blue plaques are dedi-
an exquisitely decorated outer kimono worn cated to women, making this year’s crop all the more
during the wedding banquet. After guessing valuable in unearthing forgotten female histories and
this, it seems suddenly fragile. I imagine a firing the imaginations of generations to come.
girl, her heart still new, carried by these birds English Heritage’s new collection of blue plaques will be
into her future. announced on 8 March.
I think of my grandfather at the end of his
life, his hands jittering with Parkinson’s, the
words shaking out of his throat. I think that
there must have been a final time his long Who’s that girl?
brown arms tucked themselves into indigo An eye-catching red kimono design
blue. I wonder if he knew it was the last. created by Jean Paul Gaultier for
I will go to the show. I will admire the Madonna’s music video ‘Nothing Really
kimono, the wood-block prints, the hair Above: Matters’ appears in the V&A show.
combs and paintings. I will look and look. I doubt Kobayakawa Our limited-edition cover, exclusively
I’ll be able to touch. I hope to glimpse the lives Kiyoshi’s ‘Kaidan available at the museum shop, features
that once filled silk and cotton. (Staircase)’. Right: an image originally shot for a 1999
‘Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk’ is at the V&A (www. Bazaar’s V&A issue of Bazaar, paying tribute to that
vam.ac.uk) from 29 February to 21 June. limited-edition cover remarkable collaboration.
DANCE
BODY
LANGUAGE
TALKING POINTS
Far right:
Tamara Rojo wears
cotton cardigan, £3,160;
silk chiffon skirt, £7,990,
both Chanel. Ring, her
own. Akram Khan wears
grosgrain jacket; silk
poplin shirt, both from a
selection, Alexander
McQueen. Hat and
trousers, his own.
Below: Rojo’s pointe shoes
TALKING POINTS
Left: Andydevout followers of the Byzantine Ruthenian
Warhol’s ‘Julia
Catholic Church, imbuing in their son a strong reli-
Warhola’ gious conviction that he never entirely lost, despite
(1974)
his liberal outlook and queer identity. (The theme of
faith recurs in much of his art, from his depictions of the Christian
cross to his portrait of Marilyn Monroe against a circular golden
backdrop, in the style of a Renaissance devotional painting.)
Warhol and his mother were extremely close: the pair would
while away the hours in Pittsburgh doing arts and crafts together,
and some of his earliest commissions as an illustrator were produced
in collaboration with Julia, whose beautiful looping handwriting he
used in books such as 25 Cats Name Sam and One Blue Pussy (Warhol
rather charmingly chose not to correct her grammatical error). She
even came to live with him in New York after he bought his first
home there in 1959, using the money made from his burgeoning
artistic career. The rapidity of Warhol’s ascent from abject poverty
to affluence owes much to the attitude of sheer persistence he learnt
from his family: just as Julia once went from door to door selling
painted Easter eggs in Pittsburgh, he was not afraid to hustle
for work at glossy magazines including Harper’s Bazaar, for whose
pages he created vibrant illustrations of shoes, perfumes and cars.
© 2020 THE ANDY WARHOL FOUNDATION FOR THE VISUAL ARTS, INC/LICENSED BY DACS, LONDON, KEN HEYMAN, CJ HENDRY. ILLUSTRATIONS BY KRISTINA HARRISON
Although Warhol inherited Julia’s
PHOTOGRAPHS: THE ANDY WARHOL MUSEUM, PITTSBURGH, PA © 2020 THE ANDY WARHOL FOUNDATION FOR THE VISUAL ARTS, INC/LICENSED BY DACS, LONDON,
courageous spirit, he also appears to
I
just happen to like ordinary ART have retained from his youth a certain
things,’ Andy Warhol once melancholy awareness of mortality,
said. ‘When I paint them, I having witnessed his father’s untimely
don’t try to make them extraor-
dinary. I just try to paint them
FAMILY death in 1942 and his mother’s battle
with colon cancer in 1944. This mani-
ordinary-ordinary.’
‘Ordinary’ is hardly a term most PORTR AIT fested itself in a sense of urgency
throughout his career, from his move
of us associate with an artist who away from illustration and towards
has acquired a semi-mythical status
Tate Modern’ s Andy Warhol silk-screen portraiture in the 1960s,
in our collective cultural imagination, retrospective offers a unique insight to his experimental film-making and
as a chronicler of celebrity life and a his triumphant return to painting fol-
pioneer of the 1950s pop art phenom-
into the visionary artist’ s complex lowing the trauma of his attempted
enon. Yet Warhol was sceptical about life and enduring influence assassination in 1968. The exhibition
the terminology used to describe the will end with Warhol’s 1986 opus
movement, preferring to brand his By FRANCES HEDGES Sixty Last Suppers, a monumental work
work as a form of ‘commonism’, in inspired by the themes of religion and
reference to its humble subject matter and loss in Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece. This
democratic purpose. He was fascinated by might seem an unexpected note on which to
the levelling power of mass consumerism, conclude a show about an artist commonly
arguing that ‘what’s great about this country considered in the context of colour, life and
is that America started the tradition where hedonism, but perhaps the reappraisal is
the richest consumers buy essentially the overdue. As Warhol said: ‘They always say
same things as the poorest’. time changes things, but you actually have to
Warhol was something of a sphinx-like change them yourself.’
figure, prone to cryptic statements and con- ‘Andy Warhol’ is at Tate Modern (www.tate.org.
Above: Andy Warhol
tradictions. But for Gregor Muir, the curator with his mother. Right:
uk) from 12 March to 6 September.
of Tate Modern’s new exhibition dedicated his ‘Marilyn Monroe’s
to his art, understanding the ‘real’ Warhol Lips’ (1962)
begins with delving into his prehistory. As
part of his research, Muir travelled to the Eastern Carpathians, a
region of what is now northern Slovakia, where the artist’s mother
Julia Warhola lived before she emigrated to America. ‘I was struck
by how remote it is, and by the overwhelming religious presence –
even today, there’s almost no vantage point from which you can’t see
a cross,’ he says. ‘When Julia came to America, she’d have brought
the culture and beliefs of her home country with her.’ Once in
Pittsburgh, where Warhol was born in 1928, the family remained
TECHNOLOGY
I M AGI N
FA S H I O N
N E T WO RK
ART
F
O of CJ Hendry com A
S
TI
orks
et
A trio of stylish apps
T
yw
oL
ON
or
EN
ondo
s
illu
ht,
n
Drest
M
rig
Conceived by Bazaar’s former
PIG
eb
editor Lucy Yeomans, Drest is the
first interactive fashion game: put Th
together outfits from brands such
as Prada and Gucci to unlock
challenges and win clothing.
Prêt-à-Template
Roberta Weiand, a former graphic
designer at Dolce & Gabbana, has
launched a drawing app that lets
users sketch ensembles on more
than 500 figures. NATALIE SALMON
All apps are available on the App
Store or Google Play.
DESIGN
FORCES OF
N AT U R E
Erdem Moralioglu has collaborated with the historic interiors brand
de Gournay to produce a hand-painted, silk-panelled wallpaper featuring
colourful flora and birds. The richly romantic pattern has also been used
to create the designer’s S/S 20 capsule collection of diaphanous
dresses, fluted skirts and elegantly frilled tops in three colours –
perfectly combining the distinctive charm of both houses. BROOKE THEIS
www.erdem.com; www.degournay.com
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TALKING POINTS
while building her own extraordinary career, not to mention
Toni raising her two sons alone (she was divorced from her husband,
Morrison Harold Morrison). Her first novel, The Bluest Eye, was published
in 1970, when she was approaching 40, and Beloved, her most
famous work, came out in 1987. It went on to win the Pulitzer
Prize, and Jonathan Demme’s cinematic adaptation, starring
Oprah Winfrey, appeared 11 years later. In 1993, Morrison
became the first African-American woman to receive the Nobel
Prize in Literature.
What is clear from Greenfield-Sanders’ documentary is
Morrison’s marvellous sense of presence. Looking straight at
the camera, she is shown laughing, serious, open, truthful,
whether she’s talking about the significance of her work or
about baking (her carrot cake was famous). Halfway through,
she refers to a review of her second novel Sula, which appeared
in 1973. The critic called the book and its characters ‘provincial’,
which seems simply to have been a code for ‘black’. ‘I spent my
writing life trying to make sure that the white gaze was not
dominant in any of my books,’ Morrison says in the film.
Greenfield-Sanders admits having been very conscious of his
FILM own white, male gaze when he worked on the project – and it is
SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS. PHOTOGRAPHS: © TIMOTHY GREENFIELD-SANDERS, 1997 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, FRITZ VON DER SCHULENBURG/THE INTERIOR ARCHIVE, ©AMP
for this reason that he not only weaves in the work of African-
American artists (in particular the stunning opening sequence,
THE LAST WORD an animated collage created by Mickalene Thomas and set to a
score by Kathryn Bostic), but also ensures Morrison herself
A powerful documentary tells the story of speaks directly to the viewer. ‘It’s her voice, her ideas,’ he says.
‘It’s really Toni telling her story.’
the inspiring writer Toni Morrison That story is extraordinarily inspiring, both because of the
wonder and success of her own work, and, as a writer and editor,
By ERICA WAGNER the path she laid for others. Interviewed for the documentary,
Oprah Winfrey calls her ‘a friend to our minds’, whose writing
‘allows you to understand that pain is OK; and that through pain
The Pieces I Am, Timothy Greenfield-Sanders’ remarkable film you can come to love’. The scholar and activist Angela Davis
about the life of Toni Morrison, has been a long time coming. describes the publication of Beloved as ‘an extraordinary turning
The pair met 40 years ago when Greenfield-Sanders, who is point in this history of the United States’, noting that ‘we could
both a photographer and film-maker, was shooting the author never think about slavery in the same way’ after its release.
for a downtown New York paper. ‘We became friends from that This film is a brilliant introduction to one of the 20th cen-
moment on,’ he says, speaking on the phone from his studio, tury’s greatest and most influential writers. Toni Morrison never
a converted rectory on the Lower East Side. He would later wrote a memoir and did not agree to a biography, but The Pieces
photograph her for her book covers, and she was the first person I Am is probably as close as we’re going to get to her. It offers
to sit for ‘The Black List’, his groundbreaking series of portraits a beautiful and important testimony to the power of her work
of prominent African-Americans. and her generosity of spirit.
Morrison, who died in August last year, was once described ‘Toni Morrison: The Pieces I Am’ is released on 6 March.
by The New York Times as ‘the nearest thing America has to
a national novelist’. Born in 1931 in Lorain, Ohio, she worked
as an editor at Random House in Manhattan during the mid-
1960s, publishing the works of African-American writers such
as Angela Davis and Gayl Jones and the boxer Muhammad Ali, Abi Daré
O N E TO
BOOKS AT C HW
bi Daré makes a spar t
A kling l
iterary debu
This coming-of-age novel follows Adunni, a 14-year-old Nigerian girl subject to the whims of
her father and family yet learning to speak for herself. It won the Bath Novel Award 18 months
before publication, and marks the appearance of a strong and stylish new talent. EW
‘The Girl with the Louding Voice’ (£12.99, Hodder & Stoughton) is published on 5 March.
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HOROSCOPES
The future revealed: your essential guide to APRIL By PETER WATSON
ARIES LIBRA
21 March – 20 April 24 September – 23 October
Unexpected developments might unsettle you. But a Jupiter-Pluto If you can sweet-talk a companion or loved one around to your way
alliance should help you look ahead and see ways you can capitalise of thinking, a venture or journey should live up to expectations.
on adjustments made by others. Don’t be afraid of being perceived It is important to acknowledge, however, that at times you might
as opportunistic. You’re merely making the most of a set-up be unusually daring. Don’t become heavy-handed about what you
created by those who haven’t yet realised quite how clever you are. want – offer reassurance and understanding, rather than judgement.
LUCKY DAY 17th – a boost to your confidence turns fantasy into reality. LUCKY DAY 25th – curbing an extravagant mood brings unlikely benefits.
TAURUS SCORPIO
21 April – 21 May 24 October – 22 November
You’ve been discouraged from breaking into unfamiliar territory, Someone springing a surprise on you mustn’t disrupt your private
either through your own fears or someone else’s negativity. or family life. Though Mars is picking a fight with Uranus early in
However, you’re about to become far more gung-ho when it comes April, there’s no need to defend yourself heavily against any new
to trying different things. Just make sure your new-found confidence ideas likely to affect you. It’s better to prove how adaptable you can
doesn’t make one particular individual want to run a mile. be when you’re suddenly put to the test.
LUCKY DAY 4th – being proactive in certain areas enhances your image. LUCKY DAY 11th – changes to your routine are a blessing, not a curse.
GEMINI SAGITTARIUS
22 May – 21 June 23 November – 21 December
Joint financial, business or property matters could take a turn Sometimes it’s hard to decide how generous you should be to loved
for the better. Even so, you must resist the temptation to involve ones. And your fear of being perceived as mean and miserly mustn’t
yourself in a deal that sounds too good to be true – it probably force you to go to extremes. Weigh up what’s appropriate and
is. Your challenge will be to determine whose advice to take affordable, and act accordingly. Also, catch up on correspondence
and which situations should be given a wide berth. that seems mundane but is about to become vitally important.
LUCKY DAY 24th – reflecting on a tricky scenario presents fresh options. LUCKY DAY 3rd – meaning ful discussions solve long, ongoing problems.
CANCER CAPRICORN
22 June – 23 July 22 December – 20 January
Fundamental changes within a close relationship can be pursued, Be ready to mastermind everyday work or projects left unfinished
provided you and the other person involved want similar outcomes. by those who should know better. But don’t sacrifice romantic,
You’re entering a phase during which you’ll have a keen sense of creative or exotic plans you’ve had in mind for some time. Let the
the value of the moves being debated. But you must resist the urge to Sun’s tussle with Pluto and Jupiter bring out the part of you that
disregard any other viewpoints being put forward. Remain flexible. knows how to work hard, but play even harder.
LUCKY DAY 8th – by maintaining standards, you impress those who count. LUCKY DAY 26th – chance encounters lead to romance or adventure.
LEO AQUARIUS
24 July – 23 August 21 January – 19 February
Initially, it may be hard to see how colleagues or family members As you disclose sensitive information to somebody close, you might
shifting their power base might affect you. You’ll gradually realise, wonder whether you’re in danger of spreading gossip. But surely,
though, that potent Pluto moving backwards from 25 April is deep down, you know how trustworthy this person really is. If
encouraging you to take better care of yourself and be less beholden not, keep quiet. You’ll also need to reflect on whether or not
to somebody who sometimes takes advantage of your good nature. something important is missing from the relationship in question.
LUCKY DAY 23rd – heeding one of life’s major lessons pays off. LUCKY DAY 1st – moving on from a chaotic situation lifts your heart.
VIRGO PISCES
24 August – 23 September 20 February – 20 March
At last you’re about to be recognised for skills you possess in a Invitations or suggestions from a small group of people will, at first,
particular area. But avoid giving the impression that you feel you’re persuade you to join in with whatever they are doing. But you may
streets ahead of everybody else. Certain individuals close by will soon begin to wonder whether their plans really suit you. Unless
find it hard to co-operate with you if it seems you’re looking down you’re entirely comfortable with whatever they are offering, you
on them. Humility could be the answer. should make a decisive but polite exit from proceedings.
LUCKY DAY 18th – opening your mind to new possibilities wins you fans. LUCKY DAY 27th – proving what you do best earns you huge respect.
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A SPRING GLOW
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And the
Following dazzling turns in
Black Mirror and The Morning Show,
Gugu Mbatha-Raw is taking the crown
playing the first black Miss World. She
tells Lydia Slater about fighting for
feminism, embracing her heritage
and the secret of happiness
in Hollywood
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winner is…
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O
then complains vociferously about the
inadequate dinner served at a celebrity
event we both attended recently.
pening the 1970 Miss World contest, the presenter In short, Gugu is one of those rare
people to whom it is easy to warm
Bob Hope was in particularly ebullient mood. immediately. Perhaps this attribute is
why she doesn’t shy away from less
‘I’m very, very happy to be here at this cattle market…’ sympathetic roles; on the contrary,
she appears to revel in them. ‘You can’t
always be the goodie everyone’s root-
he leered to the tittering audience. ‘Moooooo!’ ing for,’ she says, laughing.
His enjoyment was short-lived; moments later, the clatter of a Her nuanced performance as Hannah Shoenfeld in the acclaimed
football rattle resounded around the Royal Albert Hall, and the Apple TV+ drama The Morning Show was one such example. Starring
stage was invaded by outraged women protesters, hurling flour and alongside Jennifer Aniston and Reese Witherspoon, she portrayed
stink bombs. They forced the obnoxious Hope to flee from the set a talent booker for a television show who comes across as chilly
and disrupted the BBC’s broadcast in what has come to be seen as and judgemental. It is only towards the end of the series that we
a watershed moment for feminism. witness in flashback the sexual assault by a senior colleague that
‘I watched the whole ceremony and it’s shocking, particularly the has traumatised her for years.
bit where the women all have to turn round to show their bottoms…’ This is a scene of surpassing discomfort, made worse by the fact
says Gugu Mbatha-Raw, over lunch at a smart Marylebone restau- that her violator, brilliantly played by Steve Carell, believes her
rant. ‘It definitely makes you realise quite how far we’ve come.’ silence means she is a willing participant. ‘We all think, “Just say no!”
This particular Miss World contest is the subject of Gugu’s But actually there is another instinct, which is to freeze, and that’s
thought-provoking new drama, Misbehaviour. She takes the role of so primal. Obviously, it’s an abuse of power, but I think how Hannah
Jennifer Hosten, who, as Miss Grenada, became the first black responds to it is very real.’
woman to win the Miss World crown. ‘I came to [the part] with an Gugu is generous in her praise for her co-star Carell. ‘He’s
air of judgement, of, oh, you know, beauty queens,’ she admits, ‘but so well-loved, but he has a dark side to his range,’ she says. ‘I don’t
I’ve become more open-minded as to what that represents. I think know if any other actor would have been brave enough to do it,
it’s very easy now to look back and say, “Why would you do that? It’s or they might have made it more two-dimensional or villainous or
so superficial.” What’s interesting is that rebellion can often be a predatory. Ooh! It gets deep, it gets dark, it gets murky! It’s a
luxury.’ For her research into the film, Gugu visited Grenada to talk modern morality tale: you sell your soul, what’s the cost and who’s
to Hosten. ‘She’s in her seventies now, and she’s got such a regal to blame?’ Indeed: Hannah later accepts a promotion in exchange
presence, such posture, these bright, bright eyes – she’s very demure, for withdrawing her complaint. ‘What I love about the script is
quite proper but very centred. that you get to see the grey area,’ Gugu says. ‘It’s not saying: this
‘It was amazing to meet her and find out about a moment in her person’s a saint, this person’s a victim, this person’s a predator,
life all that time ago that really informed all her opportunities and it’s saying that we are all culpable.’
choices. She felt like she was an ambassador for her country,
and she was breaking boundaries in her own way.’ Hosten went on
to be appointed Grenada’s High Commissioner to Canada. Mean-
while, just a few days before we meet, the Miss World title is awarded
to Toni-Ann Singh of Jamaica, meaning that in 2019, for the first
time ever, all major beauty titles have been won by black women.
‘Optics are so powerful: who gets to be celebrated?’ says Gugu.
RICHARD PHIBBS
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THIS PAGE: silk dress, about £1,585, Giambattista Valli. OPPOSITE: cloqué dress, £1,565, Emilia Wickstead. White and yellow gold and
diamond earrings, £8,200, Jessica McCormack. White gold and diamond ring, from a selection, Van Cleef & Arpels
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RICHARD PHIBBS
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RICHARD PHIBBS
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RICHARD PHIBBS
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RICHARD PHIBBS
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SIREN SONG
A captivating melody of liquid gold, shimmering
silver and burnished bronze echoes across the
glistening waters of Durdle Door beach in Dorset
Photographs by ERIK MADIGAN HECK
CONTR AST
& CONQUER
Modern monochrome meets classical grandeur
in a triumphant procession of sharp silhouettes
and contemporary tailoring
REGAN CAMERON
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FIELD OF
DREAMS
Atop stony plinths and framed by woody vines, we create a natural gallery
of cotton, raffia and silk set within vast verdant pastures
AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA
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MISTRESS OF
TALES & REVELS
As the final instalment of Hilary Mantel’s illustrious Tudor
trilogy is published, she grants Erica Wagner a rare audience at Hampton
Court Palace to discuss royal politics past and present, and why she’s
not quite finished with Thomas Cromwell
RICHARD PHIBBS
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I
and shifting self-perception: he is plain Thomas when recalling
his childhood; he may be Lord Cromwell or Master Secretary,
depending on his circumstance.
Of course, when we embark on this final novel, we know how it
must end: with Cromwell’s death. That’s no spoiler: it’s historical
fact. After Anne’s execution, Henry married Jane Seymour, who
t’s a grey, wintry day at Hampton Court, Henry VIII’s died after giving birth to their son, Edward. Cromwell helped
great palace on the banks of the Thames. In a wood- arrange his next marriage, to Anne of Cleves; but Henry’s new bride
panelled chamber – the Albemarle Suite – with a view was not to his liking, and Cromwell’s fate was sealed. He was exe-
of the gardens stretching out beyond the windows, we all feel as if cuted on 28 July 1540.
we could do with a fire. ‘Put a jumper on,’ Dame Hilary Mantel tells Recounting the death of Cromwell, her colleague and compan-
her husband Gerald, settled at the far end of the room. Gerald, ion, must have been a challenge, I venture. Mantel, as ever, balances
however, isn’t cold. ‘You’re not now,’ Mantel says, ‘but you will be.’ pragmatism with strong feeling. She had, after all, always known the
SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS. HAIR AND MAKE-UP BY AMY BRANDON, USING MARIA NILA AND BY TERRY. PHOTOGRAPHED AT HAMPTON COURT PALACE (WWW.HRP.ORG.UK)
Hilary Mantel thinks ahead. She knew that if she was going to outcome of her tale, and in fact had her first try at telling the story
write a novel about life in the court of Henry VIII, it would have of her protagonist’s demise not long after writing the first pages of
to be published in 2009, the 500th anniversary of his accession to the Wolf Hall. ‘Actually, it’s really embarrassing, this, but when it came
throne. And so she did: Wolf Hall went on to be a global bestseller, as into my head how it must go, I was in Sainsbury’s at the checkout,’
did Bring Up the Bodies, the second volume of what is now, trium- she recalls. ‘My hands were packing and tears were falling really,
phantly, a trilogy. Both were awarded the Man Booker Prize, and really fast onto my hands. And by the time I got into the carpark, I’d
Mantel became the first woman and the first British author to win done it. It was emotionally processed.’ What came after that, she
twice. Yes, dozens of books have been set in the Tudor period; but says, was a question of style. And what style! For the reader, knowing
Mantel’s genius lay in her ability to latch onto a hitherto unexploited what is in store for Cromwell makes Mantel’s magnificent, mov-
angle of an oft-told tale, taking as her vantage point Thomas Crom- ing denouement no less powerful; perhaps, indeed, much more so.
well, a man born a commoner who rose to be the King’s fixer-in-chief. In our conversation, Mantel uses the term ‘rehearsal’ more than
Drawing faithfully on historical record, she built a protagonist both once to describe her process for writing a scene – which might sound
implacable and sympathetic, calculating yet always human. The surprising until you recall how closely she was involved in the Royal
two books propelled her from literary respectability to international Shakespeare Company’s theatrical adaptation of the first two books,
fame: Gerald, trained as a geologist – and therefore someone who advising on Mike Poulton’s excellent script. (There was, of course,
also knows a bit about deep time – now manages Mantel, Inc. ‘The a much-praised BBC television series too, with Mark Rylance as
publication of this book,’ he says to me quietly as we walk through Cromwell and Damian Lewis as Henry VIII.) The plays premiered
the palace corridors, ‘isn’t like the publication of any of the others.’ at the Swan in Stratford-upon-Avon in 2014 and then enjoyed
Nor like that of almost any other book: how many novels get teaser Broadway success: the influential New York Times theatre critic Ben
adverts on billboards in Leicester Square? Readers – and bookshops Brantley noted that even after a third viewing – nearly six hours of
– have been waiting for this moment for eight years. James Daunt, live theatre – ‘I found myself just as much in its thrall, and even more
the CEO of Waterstones, has called its release ‘the most significant admiring of its accomplishment’.
publishing event of my 30-year bookselling career’. But Mantel’s most enduring bond was forged with Ben Miles,
A proof copy of that long-awaited novel, The Mirror & the Light, who brought to the role of Cromwell both brutal charm and his own
now sits on the table between us. Mantel speaks of Cromwell in the deep research. An idea he had on stage for a scene of a violent
same vivid present tense that drives the books, calling him her ‘col- encounter in Cromwell’s youth even inspired a passage in Mantel’s
league’. Working with Cromwell is, she says, ‘very much like being third book. Their partnership has continued into the present day;
in the rehearsal-room with an actor, I think. I always have the feeling she is now working on a play of this final volume directly with Miles;
of him questioning and working against the grain. He constantly there is also to be a book of images, produced with his brother
gives you something to push back against, because just when you George, a photographer, using Mantel’s text alongside pictures of
think you’ve grasped the historical reality of a certain situation, then locations associated with Cromwell as they appear in present-day
you realise you probably haven’t.’ England. All this has given The Mirror & the Light an almost colla-
The Mirror & the Light begins just where Bring Up the Bodies ended borative air. ‘It feels as if the process that’s led to this book is an
– with the execution of Henry’s second wife, Anne Boleyn: ‘Once expanded one, because the plays, the photographs, different things,
the queen’s head is severed, he walks away. A sharp pang of appetite have fed into the way I work,’ says Mantel.
reminds him that it is time for a second breakfast, or perhaps an Talking to her, you have the sense of someone who always knew
early dinner.’ In two simple sentences, we are dropped into the high that there was a destiny in store for her. She first came here, to
and terrible drama of this extraordinary story and reminded of Hampton Court, when she was CONTINUED ON PAGE 234
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BEAUTY
with pride
Campbell
PHOTOGRAPH: IMAXTREE
L A R A M U LLE N
Relaxing
Salt Scrub,
£38 Espa
National
K U K UA WI LLIA M S
treasures
As Britain separates from the EU,
Siân Ranscombe takes stock of the UK
beauty industry and honours our thriving
Cheek to Chic
home-grown brands in Love Is the
Drug, £30
Charlotte
Tilbury
I t’s fair to say that Britain’s departure from the EU has left
many unresolved questions for businesses, and beauty
brands are no exception. While the industry is working
hard to ensure that bestselling products from international cosmetic
labels remain available in the UK, our home-grown companies can
expect a strong year ahead, as buying British increasingly becomes
the most cost-effective – as well as the most sustainable – choice.
‘We have a rich history in brand development,’ says Millie
Kendall, the CEO and co-founder of the British Beauty Council.
‘Look at our leading entrepreneurs, such as Charlotte Tilbury and
Pat McGrath, or our amazing hairdressers – John Frieda, Sam
McKnight, Josh Wood. We have the credentials and our products
have fantastic shelf appeal. We’re less likely to market something
with vacuous buzzwords, which resonates with the consumer.’
The British skincare offering in particular has come on leaps and
bounds in the past year. In 2019, the London-based GP and skin
Colognes, £50
for 30ml;
Lavender &
Musk Pillow
FR A N S U M M E R S
BEAUTY BAZAAR
Modern
Hairspray, £22
Mutiny Lip Hair by Sam
Balm, £19 McKnight
Medik8
FR A N S U M M E R S
philosophy – a belief that the key to better skin is a routine including
vitamin C, SPF and vitamin A. The UK is also home to a number of
world-class facialists, including Nichola Joss, Vaishaly Patel and the
Duchess of Sussex’s favourite practitioner, Sarah Chapman.
British brands have always excelled in aromatherapy and, fit-
N O R A AT TA L
tingly, given the political climate, many of this year’s new releases
are geared towards boosting the mood. The acupuncturist and
holistic facialist Annee de Mamiel, who is known for her seasonal
oil blends, has just launched Altitude Bath Soak, stress-relieving,
skin-nourishing salts produced using the
same essence found in her cult Altitude Oil.
Elsewhere, Espa, which produces its ranges
in Somerset, is unveiling its Positivity Fittingly, given the
Blend, a ‘portable pick-me-up’ to be used as
a pulse-point oil or in the bath after a partic- political climate,
ularly troubled day, while This Works’ new
Love Sleep range is designed to aid both
many of this year’s Altitude Bath
Soak, £42
rest and intimacy in the bedroom. Finally, new releases are de Mamiel
Of course, none of this means we will suddenly have to abjure old Aromatherapy
Associates
favourites from beyond our own shores. Harvey Nichols’ director of
beauty and concessions Jo Osborne is confident that, as a luxury
retailer with strong global relationships, the department store will
continue sourcing the cosmetics we love. ‘Brands have been working BlitzTrance
FR A N S U M M E R S
AMAZING
GREYS
As women increasingly tire of the maintenance involved in
disguising their naturally changing hair colour, Katy Young investigates
the elegant way to embrace silvering locks
PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL ZAK
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BEAUTY BAZAAR
W
through tubs of conditioners and masks that I sleep in, and I’ve had
a weekly blow-dry in my local salon for four years now. When I’m
travelling for work, I schedule hairdresser appointments around
hy is it that however many new grey the shows, and always go for a blow-dry when I arrive in New York.’
hairs sprout from our hairlines, we never Indeed, going grey requires a total rethink of our bathroom shelf.
seem to be any the wiser about how to As hair loses its melanin granules, it can begin to change shape and
manage them? As a beauty editor I, possibly more than most, can become deprived of its elastic properties. ‘It’s a myth that greys are
adopt some level of agency over how my skin ages, choosing whether more coarse – in fact, they are finer, though the texture does shift.
to leave it to Mother Nature or the latest doctor on Harley Street. Simultaneously, production from oil glands on the scalp slows,
But when it comes to going grey, I will admit to a touch of confusion. leading to a drier feel,’ explains Dr Joseph Cincotta of Federici
In my early forties and confronted with my first silver streaks, Brands. Dry locks, being unable to reflect light, can lack shine, so a
knowing that by the age of 50, one in two of us will have half a head greater focus on smoothing and glossing treatments is needed.
of grey hair, I find myself wondering how easy it is for anyone to Cincotta also recommends selecting formulas suited to fragile or
grow older gracefully… even coloured hair, as well as shampoos designed to minimise the
One friend exhausted with the constant maintenance involved in discolouring effects of certain minerals found in tap water.
covering up her roots tells me that she is tempted to go fully grey but Then comes the question of how to maintain a shifting spectrum
can’t quite take the plunge, as her children collapse in tears every of shades – blending your salt-and-pepper roots until your full head of
time she threatens to put down her hair dye. The problem, according hair goes entirely grey (as a blonde, I know all too well that this
to the behavioural psychologist Professor Carolyn Mair, is that ‘we process can take years). Hayward spent over a decade painstakingly
live in a youth-obsessed society where the norm is to eliminate any finger-painting her roots, save for her signature streak – a weekly
sign of ageing. Not taking advantage of the many opportunities to habit she decided to abandon last year, though ‘not before finding a
maintain a youthful appearance is considered to mean not taking wonderful stylist called Marley Xavier at Josh Wood, who finally
care of ourselves’. understood how to manage the grow-out properly,’ she tells me.
These days, however, feeling good in one’s own skin is consid- Xavier, a master colourist usually found backstage at Miu Miu and
ered the real barometer of beauty, which surely means practising Marc Jacobs, calls it his ‘lip glossing’ for hair, weaving in darker
self-acceptance and self-esteem. Perhaps if I could find the confi- strands at the roots, blurring out the tide mark between your new
dence to go grey on my own terms, I might be able to find a happy grey growth and the dye job you want to leave behind.
space between taking a healthy, moral standpoint on ageing and My own colourist, Adam Reed, informs me that making the tran-
looking my best. After all, there’s no shortage of role models: some sition to a full grey look is becoming far more achievable, in part
of the world’s most desirable women, including Salma Hayek, Jamie because of a cultural shift, but also because the big beauty compa-
Lee Curtis and Diane Keaton, have chosen to embrace their greying nies have developed some excellent products to ease the process.
hair. And closer to home, I have my own poster girl in Catherine ‘Colour is so incredible now that it needn’t take weeks or months of
Hayward, the fashion director of Esquire, who has elected to sport growing out your hair, dyed or otherwise,’ he says. ‘I can enhance
a fashionable streak of grey since her early thirties. your natural shade, and just warm up the grey and blend it in so you
‘I just seemed to go with the flow of what my hair wanted to do, don’t see any roots or regrowth. It doesn’t have to be about covering
going lighter at the front and dark at the back,’ Hayward tells me. ‘It up greys – I can create a softness that looks so feminine.’
was like Debbie Harry’s style, and just a little bit rock ’n’ roll. While But no amount of good products or stylists can take the decision
I hated the frizz, I really didn’t mind the whitening. In the past year for us; in Hayward’s words: ‘You have to make the leap your-
or so, I’ve noticed others beginning to feel the same – I’m constantly self.’ Fortunately, thanks to pioneers like herself, society is finally
stopped in the street by women asking me how beginning to accept that a woman with grey hair
I achieved the look.’ er pol can be just as much a silver fox as her male
l v is
The answer, apparently, is through a lot i counterpart. As Professor Mair declares
of trial and error. ‘The challenge with – ‘not being young doesn’t mean we’re
h
S
From left: Nutriplenish Multi-Use Hair Oil, £30, Aveda. Smooth Conditioner, £38, Virtue at Space NK. Follicle Boost Hair Density
Serum, £96, Monpure. Barbiere Illuminating Shampoo, £35, Acqua di Parma. Shimmering Silver Conditioner, £6.99, John Frieda.
Serie Expert Silver Shampoo, £12.90, L’Oréal Professionnel. Color Care Whipped Glaze Light, £24, Living Proof
BEAUTY BAZAAR
MY
MOODBOARD
Hermès Beauté’s creative
director revisits the label’s storied
past for its first lipstick collection
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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
THE FUTURE
OF SKINCARE
How the Japanese brand
Sensai is using avant-garde
Fine Fiber Technology to
elevate modern beauty routines
In the search for enviable skin, Japan very much leads
the way. The country has long blended innovation
with traditional Asian rituals, resulting in products
that have captivated beauty aficionados. With our
love of Japanese skincare showing little sign of
abating in 2020, and our hunger for at-home treat-
ments continuing, a whole host of new tools offers us
the chance both to discover radiant skin and enjoy
a moment of calm in our increasingly hectic lives.
Take the latest innovation from the Japanese
beauty powerhouse Sensai. Harnessing
the power of cutting-edge Fine Fiber
Technology, the brand has created the
Biomimesis Veil Diffuser, a hand-held
The micro-fibre
electronic device that sprays a unique veil maximises
micro-fibre veil onto the face, maxim-
ising skin-hydration levels while you
skin-hydration
sleep. Use it before bed and your skin-
care products will be better absorbed
levels while you
overnight, ensuring that you wake up to sleep, ensuring
the holy grail of ‘mochi-hada’ – silky-
soft ‘rice-cake’ skin.
that you wake up
So, how does it work? The diffuser is
easy to use as part of a two-step night-
to silky-soft skin
time routine. First, smooth Biomimesis
Veil Effector lamellar essence over the entire face; then use the
diffuser to spray Biomimesis Veil Potion onto the cheeks and
the forehead, creating a cocoon-like veil of fibres that locks
in moisture and boosts the skin’s ability to repair overnight.
The veil is made of such finely layered fibres that it’s hardly
perceptible and, eight hours later, is easily removed to reveal
a perfectly plump, hydrated complexion.
The process is founded on proven scientific research, with
laboratory tests showing that usage of the diffuser, combined The Sensai Biomimesis
with Sensai’s skincare products, gives optimum results for Veil starter kit contains
achieving a youthful, vibrant complexion. So this new tool the Biomimesis Veil
has the power to not only revolutionise the global beauty Diffuser, Biomimesis
stage, but also our skincare routines. Veil Potion and
Sensai Biomimesis Veil is exclusively available at Harrods. For more Biomimesis Veil
information, ring 020 7730 1234 or visit www.harrods.com. Effector and costs £745
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ESCAPE
DOMESTIC
BLISS
The most sophisticated retreats on these shores,
from a hedonistic hall in Hampshire and an artistic haven in
PHOTOGRAPH: RICH STAPLETON
NO PLACE
LIKE HOME
Exquisite epicurean delights, artful interiors and sweeping
vistas… these are the very best of Britain’s luxury retreats
Thyme T H E C O T S W OL D S
Located on the Southrop Manor estate, Thyme describes
itself as ‘a village within a village’. At its heart is a postcard-
perfect hotel with elegant stone buildings rising from clipped
hedgerows. In the mornings, wander over to the newly refur-
bished Ox Barn restaurant for a breakfast of ricotta and
fresh figs drizzled with honey on homemade sourdough, or
poached eggs heaped onto buttery radicchio. Later in the
day, you can test your own culinary skills at Thyme’s cookery
school, where classes range from making spring garden
salads to mastering English pub classics. The Meadow Spa
champions natural British beauty brands, and you can opt for a relaxing massage or
a facial tailored to your skin’s needs. Venture outside the walls for a picturesque walk
through chocolate-box villages and across fields, and on your return head to the
Swan, Thyme’s 17th-century coaching inn, which serves warming dishes by log
fires long into the night. MEG HONIGMANN
Thyme, from £355 a room a night (www.thyme.co.uk).
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ESCAPE
Beaverbrook S U R R E Y
In its former guise as the 19th-century château-style home of the infamous press baron after
which it is named, Beaverbrook has welcomed a thrilling rollcall of guests including
Winston Churchill and Elizabeth Taylor. Today, the luxury hotel is a firm favourite of the
smart west-London set, who can reach the estate by car in under 50 minutes, and whose little
ones benefit from a gigantic treehouse, cinema and spacious, pet-friendly family suites. A
more grown-up atmosphere descends at night with excellent sushi at the Japanese Grill, and
decadent cocktails in the gold-and-velvet-swathed bar. And then there’s the Coach House
Spa, whose superb therapists will restore your equilibrium for days to come. LH
PHOTOGRAPHS: RICH STAPLETON, MOLLY CARR PHOTOGRAPHY
Cliveden House BE R K SH I R E
Following a multimillion-pound restoration that culminated in
the opening of a magnificent spa and the hosting of the royal bride-
to-be Meghan Markle on the eve of her wedding, Cliveden House
is at the very top of its game. After a majestic arrival via one of the
most impressive driveways in Britain, you step into the grand
entrance hall, which is adorned with mediaeval tapestries, oil
paintings and gleaming suits of armour. Upstairs, you’ll find
refined yet comfortable bedrooms with four-posters and arm-
chairs, and marble-clad bathrooms with deep roll-top baths. The
service is faultless, whether the team are
mixing you dirty martinis at the bar or
slicing a selection of the finest cheese from
the trolley in the splendid dining-room,
but you’ll be glad to help yourself from the
bacchanalian breakfast buffet and enjoy a
feast looking out over the Parterre and
across the Thames Valley. LH
Cliveden House, from £495 a room a night
(www.clivedenhouse.co.uk).
Dormy House T H E C O T S W OL D S
Perfectly located for guests keen to explore the quaint village of Broadway, Dormy
House is a haven of rest and relaxation, some two hours’ drive from London on the
400-acre Farncombe Estate. Most visitors come to experience the superlative spa,
which offers soothing delights including a candlelit swimming pool lined with
cloud-like loungers, and a Finnish cabin where you can recline in juniper-laced dry
heat. There are also six treatment-rooms in which to enjoy tranquil massages and
rejuvenating facials using Temple Spa products. But the hotel’s latest draw is Mo,
a chef ’s-table experience where just 12 diners at a time gather to enjoy a seven-
course seasonal tasting menu that champions the finest local ingredients, from duck
liver and crab to celeriac, fig and blackberry. SOPHIE CHAPMAN
Dormy House, from £269 a room a night (www.dormyhouse.co.uk).
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ESCAPE
Lulworth Estate D OR SE T
A gentle sea breeze, beautiful landscapes and panoramic coastal
views: the Lulworth Estate offers a taste of Thomas Hardy
country at its most bucolic. As well as a 17th-century castle, the
grounds are home to a collection of luxury self-catering proper-
ties that are ideal for celebratory gatherings, or just a brief respite
from the stresses of urban life. The Lindens is perfect for larger
groups, with its nine bedrooms, a family-size kitchen and heated
swimming pool, while Woodside Lodge comes with a croquet
lawn and a baby grand piano. A short ramble down the cliff path
will lead you to Durdle Door, the famous rock arch; nearby, you’ll
also find Lulworth Cove, where
you can pass the day paddling
in crystal-clear waters and eat-
ing vinegary fish and chips on
the shore. ANNABEL NUGENT
Woodside Lodge and the Lindens on
the Lulworth Estate, from £564 a
night (www.lulworth.com).
ESCAPE
Four Seasons H A M P SH I R E
The Four Seasons’ Hampshire outpost lies within 500 acres of glorious countryside, which
boast a tranquil lake where you can try your hand at catch-and-release fishing. Evidence of the
hotel’s recent revamp can be found in the jewel-toned bar, complete with tasselled armchairs
and sparkling crystal cocktail glasses. At the Wild Carrot restaurant, fresh oysters and juicy
scallops are expertly paired with a glass of champagne by the sommelier, while breakfast is a
plentiful array of fruit, fresh bread and farmhouse bacon. Bedrooms are equipped with thick
bathrobes, an abundance of pillows, and custom mattresses with heat-absorption technology,
ensuring you’ll wake up feeling suitably refreshed. KATIE MASON
Four Seasons Hampshire, from £260 a room a night (www.fourseasons.com).
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The Newt
S OM E R SE T
Opening a sister property to its
beloved South African winery
and resort Babylonstoren was
never going to be easy, but the
hoteliers Koos and Karen Bekker
have triumphed with the Newt.
Set in a 300-acre landscaped
garden, this idyllic hotel com-
bines stylish decor with a superb
spa and delicious food. Breakfast, lunch and dinner
can be enjoyed in the Botanical Rooms, where
seasonal fruit and vegetables, hand-picked on the
estate, are served alongside fresh
breads from the on-site bakery and
butter from Somerset cows. While it’s
tempting to stay in the warm, reading
a book or playing backgammon, it’s
worth booking a tour of the cider press
and bottling plant, which make use of
the 460 British apple-trees that have
been planted in the egg-shaped walled
garden. CAMILLA PATTERSON
The Newt, £275 a room a night (www.
thenewtinsomerset.com).
ESCAPE
Below: Patricia
Gucci. Top right:
the beach deck
at Amansala.
Below right: the
Tulum coastline
PATRICIA GUCCI
The designer revels in the meditative
magic of Tulum
PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES, JULIE HEALY, BORG NINO, PIXELATE, LUCKY IF SHARP,
COURTESY OF PATRICIA GUCCI. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
Three words that describe Tulum?
‘Tropical, mystical, laid-back.’
Best place to stay
‘My daughters swear by Nomade, but I love
La Valise – a private boutique hotel nestled
between the jungle and the Caribbean Sea. Its
upper beachfront suites
are fabulous; they feel Where to go for an adventure
like a home from home ‘Snorkelling in the crystal-clear freshwater
(www.lavalise.com).’ cenotes, natural sinkholes that run deep into the
Favourite restaurant jungle. There’s nothing like spotting a crocodile BAZAAR
‘Posada Margherita – a slice to get your heart racing!’
of Italy on the beach Insider secret
(www.posadamargherita.com).’ ‘A shamanic healing with Maria Luisa at T R AV E L
Most inspiring view Amansala is a must (www.amansala.com).’
Above: a Beach ‘The jungle canopies from the What do you pack?
Front room at La Mexican-Japanese fusion restaurant Tseen Ja, ‘My Aviteur cabin case always contains Eres
Valise. Far right, perched in a giant treehouse at Azulik hotel, bikinis, a wide-brimmed straw hat by Watercult,
from centre: villas
where we celebrated my daughter Isabella’s 25th Pilot Puzzle sunglasses by Loewe and a long silk
at Azulik. The
hotel’s Tseen birthday (www.azulik.com).’ chiffon kaftan made by my friend
Ja restaurant A relaxation tip Andrea Bizzarro for Hook Design.’
‘Have a massage on the beach with Angie at Beauty essentials
Sanará Tulum, followed by a charcoal lemonade ‘Caudalie Beauty Elixir; Chantecaille
at the Real Coconut – the best way to detox Blue Light Protection Hyaluronic
from too many margaritas the night before Serum; La Mer the Eye Balm Intense;
(www.sanaratulum.com).’ and Fracas by Robert Piguet, which
A special memory has been my perfume for more
‘Attending the Mayan Temazcal than 30 years.’
ceremony under a full moon.’ A holiday read
Beauty
Elixir, ‘The Tao of Pooh by
£32 Benjamin Hoff. I love the way it
Caudalie
makes me reflect on my own life.’
About Blue Light
£325 £3,605 Protection
£320
Birkenstock x Aviteur Hyaluronic
Loewe
Il Dolce Far Serum,
Niente £135
£59
Watercult Chantecaille
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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
A TASTE
OF ASIA
Relish the continent’s exotic fusion of
cultures, including an astounding culinary
heritage, in ultra-luxury with Seabourn
Francis Alÿs
Angelina
Volk
Helen Cammock
Iwona Blazwick
Antony Gormley
PLAYING TO
THE GALLERY
Art-world A-listers gathered in east London for
a sparkling dinner celebrating creative talent
Edited by CHARLOTTE BROOK Giorgio Guidotti and
Jacqueline Euwe
A spirit of collaborative creativity presided over the Whitechapel
Gallery’s annual Art Icon gala dinner, this year honouring Francis Farshid
Alÿs. Held in partnership with Swarovski, the event saw guests Moussavi
including the fashion designer Grace Wales Bonner, Frieze
London’s new artistic director Eva Langret and the Turner Prize
winner Helen Cammock sip champagne amid avant-garde
arrangements of acid-hued orchids, before heading through to
the exhibition space for dinner. Over a feast of burratina with black
olives, roast guinea fowl and mandarin orange pâte de fruit, the
gallery’s director Iwona Blazwick warmly thanked her peers for
being a part of ‘our extraordinary community of art enthusiasts’.
Eva
Indeed, the strength of support for the east-London institution
Langret
was demonstrated by the calibre of the donated auction lots,
including tea with Tracey Emin in her Margate studio and dinner
at the nearby restaurant Bistrotheque with Blazwick and Antony
Grace Wales
Gormley, who whipped out his pocket-size notepad to sketch his Bonner
fellow diners the moment his plate was empty. CB
Catherine Petitgas
FLASH!
Joanna Hogg
MOVIE
MAGIC
Critics honoured the year’s leading film
professionals at a star-studded awards ceremony
Some of cinema’s brightest young stars sparkled among Jessie Buckley
luminaries of the British film industry in the May Fair Hotel at the
40th London Critics’ Circle Awards. Over cocktails, Elle Fanning,
embodying old-school Hollywood glamour in diamonds and a
cream Ralph Lauren gown, delightedly greeted the English
director Sally Potter, to whom she was later to present a prize.
‘Sally reaches parts of your soul you didn’t know existed,’ she said.
During the ceremony, a glowing Jessie Buckley accepted the
Best Actress trophy on behalf of Renée Zellweger with a moving
speech, saluting her friend and Judy co-star’s extraordinary
performance. The last award of the night went to Sandy Powell,
who reminisced about her prolific career designing costumes
for characters in films from The Favourite to Orlando. ‘It doesn’t
Lindy King come much better than dressing Tilda Swinton as both male
Stephen
and female,’ she declared from the podium, to the amusement
Woolley
of Swinton’s daughter, the actress Honor, who was sitting
Raffey Cassidy in the audience. CB
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content of the book, and asking, “Does that succeed with readers?”
(www.etro.com) Fabrizio Viti (www.fabrizioviti.com) Fendi (www.fendi.com)
Forte-Forte (www.forte-forte.com) The Garnered (www.thegarnered.com) The whole issue of prizes, bestseller lists and so on is out of my
Gerard Darel (www.gerarddarel.com) Giambattista Valli (www. hands.’ For the most part, she says, she has been able to keep such
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Givenchy (www.givenchy.com) Gucci (www.gucci.com) Harry find any of that matters.’
Winston (www.harrywinston.com) Hermès (www.hermes.com)
I wonder what she makes of the travails of the Royal Family
Howe (www.howelondon.com) Jaeger-LeCoultre (www.jaeger-lecoultre.
com) Jessica McCormack (www.jessicamccormack.com) Jimmy Choo today; on the day we meet, there is more news about the Duke and
(www.jimmychoo.com) JW Anderson (www.jwanderson.com) Duchess of Sussex, who have just fled to Canada, apparently seeking
Kiki McDonough (www.kiki.co.uk) The Kooples (www.thekooples.co.uk) an exit from the onerous business of being part of ‘the firm’. ‘I’m
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with the monarchy that has to go, because I think almost all of us
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Manolo Blahnik (www.manoloblahnik.com) Marthe Armitage (www. none of us know the details of how this is going to work out,’ Mantel
marthearmitage.co.uk) Max Mara (www.maxmara.com) Michael Kors says. ‘But I think that Meghan was too good to be true. She was
Collection (www.michaelkors.co.uk) Miu Miu (www.miumiu.com) a smiling face in a dull institution, she cheered the nation up no
Nabil Nayal (www.nabilnayal.com) Nadiia (www.nadiia.com.ua)
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Naomi Astley Clarke (www.naomiastleyclarke.com)
Omega (www.omegawatches.com) Ong-Oaj Pairam (www.ong-oajpairam. racism has been involved,’ she goes on. ‘People who say that’s
com) Patek Philippe (www.patek.com) Paul Smith (www.paulsmith.co.uk) got nothing to do with it – well, they need to check their privilege!’
Penny Morrison (www.pennymorrison.com) Piaget (www.piaget.com) As for Mantel herself, she is not quite finished with Cromwell yet.
Pomellato (www.pomellato.com) Prada (www.prada.com) The final part of the television adaptation is in the works, with the
Rado (www.rado.com) Ralph & Russo (www.ralphandrusso.com)
‘dream team’ of the screenwriter Peter Vaughan and director Peter
Ralph Lauren Collection (www.ralphlauren.co.uk) Richard Mille
(www.richardmille.com) Rochas (www.rochas.com) Roksanda Kosminsky. There are new projects in her sights too; she’s cautious
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time. ‘I’m 67 next birthday…’ A voice pipes up from the back of the
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Watercult (www.watercult.com) Zaeem Jamal (www.zaeemjamal.com) We rise from our seats in this chilly chamber, the breath of history
all around us. The Mirror & the Light marks a stunning culmination
of an astonishing achievement. Hilary Mantel has been made a
Dame, but she is truly the queen of modern British literature.
‘The Mirror & the Light’ (£25, Fourth Estate) is published on 5 March.
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A DV E R T I S E M E N T F E AT U R E
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