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Harper 39 S Bazaar UK - 04 2020

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CONTENTS A PR IL 2020

O N T H E C OV E R

144 Her time to shine: Gugu Mbatha-Raw


– the feminist star takes on Miss World

Harper’s Bazaar
208 Hilary Mantel: making history
at Hampton Court Palace
216 Strong & steely: the power
of silver hair
From 156 Best of British: glittering
glamour on the Dorset cliffs &
sculptural style in the Royal Parks

F E AT U R E S
144 AND THE WINNER IS…
Gugu Mbatha-Raw on iconoclastic
beauty queens, the value of TV in
the Time’s Up era and missing the
sound of April showers
208 MISTRESS OF TALES & REVELS
Erica Wagner meets Hilary Mantel
at Hampton Court Palace as the
remarkable ‘Wolf Hall’ trilogy
draws to a close

FA S H I O N
156 SIREN SONG We must go down to
the sea again, in a glorious array of
shimmering metallic gowns
172 CONTRAST & CONQUER Black
and white meet modern and ancient
in supremely stately surroundings
188 FIELD OF DREAMS Celebrate
spring’s rejuvenating energy in natural
linen, leather and poplin pieces

S T Y L E
©

77 10 THINGS WE LOVE Silk scarves,


lighter leather, raised hemlines
PHOTOGRAPHS: RICHARD PHIBBS, GETTY IMAGES

and rustic flats… Gugu Mbatha-Raw wears


Prada in this
84 MY MOODBOARD Sportmax’s
month’s cover story
Grazia Malagoli on the brand’s
colourful 50th-anniversary collection
87 MY LIFE, MY STYLE Inside the
characterful Chelsea home of
Dior’s Rachele Regini
92 THE STYLE GUIDE How to wear
this season’s globe-trotter trend
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CONTENTS

The English National Ballet’s


Tamara Rojo in ‘Body language’

©
AC C ES S O R I ES
103 FORGET ME NOT Fabulous bags,
shoes and shades rolling back the
years to the Sixties, Seventies
and Eighties

J E W E L L E RY
112 MUSIC OF THE SPHERES Tap
into universal ideas of time, love and
life through elegant new-season
watches and the eloquent words of
six wise women

AT WO R K
125 RICH SEAM Lace your black office
look with opulent glints of gold
126 CAN YOU HELP OTHER
WOMEN TO THE TOP? Viv Groskop
on the vital importance of looking out
for one another in the business world

PHOTOGRAPH: RICHARD PHIBBS. TAMARA ROJO WEARS CHANEL. SEE MAIN STORY AND STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
TA L K I N G P O I N T S
130 MATERIAL WITNESSES As the
V&A launches an exhibition about
the kimono, Rowan Hisayo Buchanan
examines how layers of living history
are sewn into the fabric of these
ancient garments
132 BODY LANGUAGE A thrilling
collaboration between the English
National Ballet’s Tamara Rojo and
the choreographer Akram Khan
marks 70 years of the company’s
incomparable dance
134 FAMILY PORTRAIT A revealing
retrospective at Tate Modern 136 THE LAST WORD Erica Wagner
explores how Andy Warhol’s on a heartwarming documentary
upbringing shaped his distinctive about the groundbreaking
creative outlook American writer Toni Morrison
135 FORCES OF NATURE 137 PERSONAL SPACE Hand-painted
Erdem Moralioglu’s bright and homewares and bespoke
beautiful wallpaper range created furnishings to give your rooms
with de Gournay unique appeal
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CONTENTS

B A Z A A R B E AU T Y
214 NATIONAL TREASURES
Siân Ranscombe assesses the
prospects for Britain’s pampering
products as we depart the EU
216 AMAZING GREYS
How to welcome your changing
hair colour and transform yourself
into a vivacious silver vixen
218 MY MOODBOARD Hermès makes
its first foray into make-up with a
stylish range of colourful lipsticks

ES C A P E
222 NO PLACE LIKE HOME
Enchanting UK destinations, from
Somerset to Braemar

PHOTOGRAPH: REGAN CAMERON. SILK TOP, £5,165; ORGANZA SKIRT, £3,615; STRASS BELT, £700; SATIN SHOES, £1,115, ALL CHANEL. SEE STOCKISTS AND MAIN STORY FOR DETAILS
230 TRAVEL NOTEBOOK The designer
Patricia Gucci on why she loves Tulum

F L A S H !
232 PLAYING TO THE GALLERY
A night of artistic appreciation and
merriment in east London
233 MOVIE MAGIC Leading lights of
the film industry toasted their peers
at a sparkling Mayfair gala

R E G U L A R S
69 EDITOR’S LETTER
72 CONTRIBUTORS
©

138 HOROSCOPES April in the stars.


By Peter Watson
234 STOCKISTS
A Chanel look from the shoot 242 WHY DON’T YOU… get that
for ‘Contrast & conquer’ feline feeling with Gucci’s
cat-head carry-all?

Subscribe
to HARPER’S
BAZAAR
For this month’s
subscription offer
turn to page 110

COVER LOOKS Above far left: Gugu Mbatha-Raw wears sequin embroidered dress, £7,040, Gucci. Above near left (subscribers’ cover): toile and velvet dress, £1,660, Prada. Gold earrings, £4,150, Van Cleef &
Arpels. See Stockists for details. Styled by Leith Clark. Hair by Daniel Martin at Bryant Artists, using Evo. Make-up by Kay Montano. Manicure by Ami Streets, using Dior Vernis and Miss Dior Hand Cream.
Photographs by Richard Phibbs. Above near right (limited-edition cover available exclusively at Tate Modern): Marilyn Monroe’s Lips (detail) (1962) by Andy Warhol, Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden,
Smithsonian Institution, Washington, DC, gift of Joseph H Hirshhorn, 1972 © 2020 the Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc/licensed by DACS, London. Above far right (limited-edition cover
available exclusively at the V&A): Madonna wearing a red Jean Paul Gaultier kimono, photographed by Patrick Demarchelier for the February 1999 issue of Harper’s Bazaar
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.COM/UK
FASHION BEAUTY CULTURE TRAVEL BRIDES BAZAAR AT WORK

EYES ON
THE PRIZE

In an exclusive backstage video, our cover star Gugu Mbatha-Raw talks to Bazaar about
hidden talents, superpowers and pursuing her dreams

PHOTOGRAPHS: RICHARD PHIBBS, ED REEVE, BETINA DU TOIT, SIMON BROWN

TO P TA B L E S STRIKING OUT ROOM WITH A VIEW


The capital’s best restaurants for dining Meet the emerging British designers See Britain in a new light at one of the finest
in splendour, whether you’re planning a bringing a fresh energy to the world of hotels in the land, from a lavish London
Mother’s Day lunch or a romantic supper fashion with their vibrant creations sanctury to a cosy Cotswolds retreat

O N L I N E N OW AT

W W W.HARPERSBAZA AR.COM/UK
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Published on 4 March

LYDIA SLATER
Acting editor-in-chief

Creative director JO GOODBY


Acting deputy editor FRANCES HEDGES

Group managing editor CONNIE OSBORNE


Workflow director/chief sub-editor DOM PRICE

FASHION
Group luxury fashion director AVRIL MAIR
Global fashion director CARINE ROITFELD
Executive fashion and jewellery director KIM PARKER
Bookings director KIAAN ORANGE
Style director-at-large LEITH CLARK
Senior fashion editors MIRANDA ALMOND, CHARLIE HARRINGTON
Junior fashion editors ROSIE ARKELL-PALMER, TILLY WHEATING, ROSIE WILLIAMS
Acting junior fashion editor HARRIET ELTON
Senior fashion co-ordinator SOPHIE CHAPMAN
Senior fashion assistant HOLLY GORST
Fashion assistant GEORGIA MEDLEY
Fashion intern CRYSTALLE COX
Contributing fashion editors CATHY KASTERINE, FLORRIE THOMAS

FEATURES
Features director HELENA LEE
Entertainment director/associate editor TOM MACKLIN
Senior editor/group luxury travel director LUCY HALFHEAD
Commissioning editor CHARLOTTE BROOK
Contributing literary editor ERICA WAGNER

BEAUTY AND HEALTH


Group luxury beauty director KATY YOUNG
Beauty editor SIÂN RANSCOMBE
Senior contributing editor, beauty HANNAH BETTS
Assistant beauty editor BECKI MURRAY

ART
Associate editor HANNAH RIDLEY Design director AMY GALVIN
Art editor LEANNE ROBSON
Designers AMY BLACKER, KRISTINA HARRISON

PICTURES
Photography director RACHEL LOUISE BROWN
Picture editor LIZ PEARN
Picture researcher OLIVIA KEATING

COPY
Sub-editor/entertainment writer YASMIN OMAR Sub-editor/features writer BROOKE THEIS

WEBSITE
Digital editor SARAH KARMALI
Deputy digital editor ELLA ALEXANDER
Digital fashion editor AMY DE KLERK Digital beauty director BRIDGET MARCH
Social media editor NATALIE SALMON Digital writer JESSICA DAVIS

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
LISA ARMSTRONG, SOPHIE BLOOMFIELD, MARISSA BOURKE, ELIZABETH DAY,
SOPHIE ELMHIRST, TERESA FITZHERBERT, ANNA MURPHY, JULIE MYERSON,
JULIET NICOLSON, ANDREW O’HAGAN, JUSTINE PICARDIE,
CATHERINE ST GERMANS, SASHA SLATER, PETER WATSON

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGR APHERS


REGAN CAMERON, SOPHIE CARRÉ, HARRY CORY WRIGHT, TOM CRAIG,
HARRY CROWDER, WILL DAVIDSON, MICHELANGELO DI BATTISTA,
ERIK MADIGAN HECK, ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI, RICHARD PHIBBS,
AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA, THOMAS SCHENK, JOSH SHINNER, PHILIP SINDEN,
DAVID SLIJPER, ELLEN VON UNWERTH, PAUL ZAK

Harper’s Bazaar ISSN 0141-0547 is published monthly (12 times a year) by Hearst UK c/o Express Mag,
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Copyright © Hearst Magazines UK, April 2020, Issue No 4/20. We regret that any free gifts, supplements,
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Published on 4 March
JACQUELINE EUWE
Chief brand officer
Executive assistant to the chief brand officer LEANE BORDER-GRIFFITH

Group brand director SHARON DAVIES-RIDGEWAY


Heads of luxury agency CHARLOTTE HOLLANDS, LOUISA PATEY
Fashion and luxury account managers ROSIE CAVE, SARAH SHEPHERD
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EDITOR’S LETTER

Below: a Celine by
Hedi Slimane look
from ‘Field of dreams’
(page 188)

M E
I
OF T
PHOTOGRAPHS: EMMA HARDY, AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA, ILLUSTRATION ERTÉ © SEVENARTS LTD

Years ago, on a visit to the Frick Collection in New York,


I found myself mesmerised by one particular portrait: a
surprisingly small, dark oil of an unlovely man. Pasty and
piggy-eyed, dressed in black, he stares coldly away from the
viewer, one hand firmly grasping what you suspect must be an
order for an enemy’s downfall. Hans Holbein’s depiction of
TS

Thomas Cromwell, though painted in an era of vanity portraits,


is deeply unflattering. It must be, at least in part, responsible for
a grim reputation that has echoed down the centuries; and yet

G I F the sitter himself, that most astute of political operators,


commissioned it. So what was he thinking? I stood for a long
time in front of it, trying to puzzle him out. It made perfect
sense when I found out later that Holbein’s portrayal had
inspired Hilary Mantel to begin her exploration of Cromwell’s
life. ‘It was the deficiency of the portrait that pushed me on,’ she
has explained. ‘I thought, “I’ll try and find him.”’
The rest, of course, is publishing history. Both Wolf Hall and
its sequel Bring Up the Bodies won the Booker Prize (making
Mantel simultaneously the first woman and the first British
author to win it twice). To mark the publication of the third and
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EDITOR’S LETTER

Left: Gugu Mbatha-Raw wearing


Dior in this month’s cover story (page
144). Above: Hilary Mantel in
‘Mistress of tales & revels’ (page 208)

£3,475
De Beers final volume, The Mirror & the Light, the writer has granted a
rare audience to our literary editor Erica Wagner, accompanied
by a dramatic photo-shoot in Hampton Court Palace, where
From a selection
her Tudor protagonist once held sway. The result is a unique
Chaumet celebration of the crossover between art, fashion and literature
in the greatest tradition of this magazine.
April is our ‘Best of British’ issue, so it feels particularly
£2,990 £650 timely that I write this on the evening that Britain officially
Michael Kors Michael Kors leaves the EU. Looking through these pages will, I hope, serve
Collection Collection
as a reminder that whatever one’s feelings about Brexit may be,

SILK DRESS, £5,300, DIOR. SEE MAIN STORY AND STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS. PHOTOGRAPHS: RICHARD PHIBBS
we can surely all unite in agreement that there is so much to
celebrate about this ‘scepter’d isle’. The beauty of the British
E D I TO R ’ S landscape and its ancient buildings is highlighted here in three
£350
C H O I C ES glorious fashion shoots, set respectively amid the Palladian
Michael Kors
grandeur of Chiswick House, surrounded by land art in
Collection
★ Richmond Park, and during a golden day on the loveliest
The arrival of spring often sees part of the Dorset coast. Meanwhile, the most cosseting
me commuting on foot. This chic boutique hotels around the country are highlighted on
£1,405 Michael Kors tailored coat and jeans can the travel pages for anyone contemplating a luxurious
Prada cope with whatever the weather throws holiday on these shores. And for those Britons who
at me, and I’ll stride out stylishly in live elsewhere, our cover star Gugu Mbatha-Raw
Prada’s elegant riding boots, with offers a novel method of staving off homesickness: she
my necessities in Fendi’s fills a bath with Epsom salts and lies back to a soundtrack
jaunty tote. of pouring rain…

£5,050
De Beers £1,690
Fendi
Lydia Slater
PS: Don’t miss the chance to subscribe to Harper’s Bazaar
– turn to page 110 for this month’s offer.
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CONTRIBUTORS

H I L A RY
M A N T E L
‘I always have the feeling of him
questioning and working
against the grain,’ says Mantel
of Thomas Cromwell, the
central character in her
monumental ‘Wolf Hall’
trilogy. To mark the publication
of her much anticipated final
instalment, The Mirror &
the Light, she appears in a R OWA N H I S AYO
photo-shoot at Hampton Court B U C H A N A N
Palace, and speaks to Erica
Wagner about saying goodbye
­
Page 130

G U G U to Henry VIII’s chief minister. Buchanan has written two

WORDS BY BROOKE THEIS. PHOTOGRAPHS: ELS ZWEERINK, COURTESY OF TAMARA ROJO, PAUL HARDWICK. GUGU MBATHA-RAW PHOTOGRAPHED BY RICHARD PHIBBS.
M B AT H A - R AW A garden you love ‘Caerhays, acclaimed novels, Harmless Like
Cornwall: a woodland estate You and last year’s Starling Days,
­
Page 144
with a gorgeous magnolia and has also edited a collection
Born in Oxfordshire, the actress display in early spring.’ of stories by Asian-American
moved to London to study at What would you do if you were writers, titled Go Home!.
Rada aged 18. She has since queen for a day? ‘Abdicate.’ Ahead of the V&A’s latest
starred in television series such Favourite Briton ‘Cardinal TA M A R A exhibition ‘Kimono: Kyoto
as Netflix’s Emmy-winning Wolsey. It would be ungracious R O J O to Catwalk’, she describes the
Black Mirror, and films including to say otherwise, as the pictures meaning these traditional
Beauty and the Beast, Motherless [on page 208] were taken
­
Page 132
garments carry for her.
Brooklyn and her latest project at his house.’ The artistic director and lead A garden you love ‘Does
Misbehaviour, which sees her North, south, east or principal dancer of the English Highgate Wood count? I delight
play the first black woman west? ‘North, for the light.’ National Ballet, who was in the dapple, the rush of dogs,
to win the Miss World Best thing about Britain awarded a CBE in 2016, has even the parents trying to coax
competition. Here, she talks to ‘Her seascapes.’ played iconic characters from their toddlers up the hill.’
Lydia Slater about taking Giselle to the Sugar Plum Fairy,
¯
Page 208
Fish and chips or a cream
on challenging roles and while also ushering in a new tea? ‘Scampi and chips on the
campaigning for feminism. chapter for the company in beach with seagulls fighting
A garden you love ‘My mum’s making dance accessible to you for their share. Victory
back garden in Witney, where contemporary audiences. makes the salt taste better.’
I first planted strawberries and In this issue, she tells Helena Favourite Briton ‘My brother,
tomatoes, and we had barbecues Lee about her forthcoming although he doesn’t live here
– there are so many happy collaboration with Akram Khan. anymore. Everyone’s Britain is a
memories associated with it.’ A garden you love ‘Regent’s different place – their own map
HAIR BY BJORN KRISCHKER. MAKE-UP BY TANIA GRIER

What would you do if Park – it’s just beautiful.’ of memories. But his Britain is
you were queen for a day? What would you do if you close enough to mine that
‘I would throw a massive party were queen for a day? ‘Give passing stories between
at Buckingham Palace and let free access to theatre, museums, ourselves feels like home.’
everyone have a poke around.’ art galleries and cinemas. But Best thing about Britain
Fish and chips or a cream tea? just for one day, because artists ‘I take pleasure in how our
‘A cream tea. Cream before jam.’ do need to make a living.’ latitude exaggerates the
Favourite Briton ‘Paddington Fish and chips or a cream stretching and shrinking of
Bear, even though he’s Peruvian tea? ‘Fish and chips.’ days. There is a kind of majesty
– because he’s so cute.’ Favourite Briton to these changes of light.’
‘Nick Hytner, for so many
amazing reasons…’
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STYLE

Edited by AVRIL MAIR

1
NEON
NIGHTS
Bright, bold and
unapologetically
look-at-me: the shade of
the season is loud.
Cotton top, about £500; silk
dress, about £2,300; cotton
tights, about £165; calf-skin
bag, about £1,550;
calf-skin heels, about £830,
all Versace

Photographs by GEORGIA DEVEY SMITH


Styled by CHARLIE HARRINGTON

THINGS
WE
From patterns that pop to all-weather leather, discover
spring’s most covetable looks

LOVE
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THE SILK
SCARF
Consider Her Maj as your
style icon one more time…
Silk scarf, from a
selection Hermès

SUMMER
L E AT H E R

Modern minimalists rejoice: this sleek,


sculptural jacket turns utility luxe.
Cotton, gabardine and calf-skin coat, £10,300;
velour bag, £9,200, both Hermès

GEORGIA DEVEY SMITH


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STYLE

4
THE
BUCKET BAG
Add interest to a
beige palette with
a playful colour pop –
pink is a vibrant choice.
Leather and canvas
bag, £1,250 Fendi

THE SILK DRESS


A simple button-down is the new essential: let
shirting inspire your other sartorial selections.
Belted silk dress, £2,090; leather slingback
loafers, £690, both Fendi
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THE HIGHER
HEMLINE
For those who prefer
a more tomboyish
take on the season’s
shorter length…
Wool skirt, £320; chiffon
shirt, £635, both Sportmax

RAFFIA SANDALS
Get crafty with rustic chic – natural is all you need.
Cotton sandals, £530; leather and brass bag, £2,350; jute and brass belt,
£760; rhodonite necklace, £570, all Dior

GEORGIA DEVEY SMITH


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STYLE

THE NEW BOHO


The spirit of the 1970s lives
on and on: psychedelic
patterns are a fast track
into the trend.
Silk chiffon dress, £1,560
Alberta Ferretti. Leather
sandals, £480 Saint Laurent
by Anthony Vaccarello
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STYLE

10
M I S M ATC H E D
PRINTS
Bring monochrome up
to date by not joining
the dots (or spots,
or stripes).
Crepe de Chine blazer,
£820; cotton jersey top,
£210; crepe de Chine
culottes, £555,
all Max Mara

MANICURE BY AMI STREETS, USING PEACCI BY THE GELBOTTLE INC. STYLIST’S ASSISTANT: GEORGIA MEDLEY. MODEL: ESTELLA BRONS AT NEXT LONDON
SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS. HAIR BY HIROSHI MATSUSHITA, USING ORIBE. MAKE-UP BY ANITA KEELING AT ONE REPRESENTS, USING GIORGIO ARMANI.

T H E U P DAT E D
CLASSIC
Because sometimes a handbag is made to
stand the test of time…
Leather bag, £1,005 Max Mara. Leather
boots, from a selection Saint Laurent
by Anthony Vaccarello

GEORGIA DEVEY SMITH


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STYLE

MY MOODBOARD
Grazia Malagoli on the five decades of colourful vivacity
that inspired Sportmax’s special anniversary collection

Below: the Sportmax


anniversary capsule
collection moodboard

Above, right
and bottom:
looks from
the collection

In celebration of Sportmax’s 50th birthday, the


MOODBOARD COURTESY OF SPORTMAX. PHOTOGRAPHS: LUCKY IF SHARP
brand’s fashion director Grazia Malagoli and
her team of designers delved into the archives
to create a 15-piece capsule collection that cap-
tured the house’s strong, dynamic spirit. ‘We took
inspiration from our rich heritage,’ Malagoli
explains. ‘For example, we identified a signature
technique from the Seventies called shaded
top-stitch, and reinterpreted it on garments
including a coat, a trench, a tailored suit and a
skirt.’ Using a palette of emerald green, ultra-
marine and deep red, she made sporty duos of
high-waisted trousers and cropped jackets, and
fluid dresses with draped inserts. Meanwhile,
hi-tech trainers and a new line of futuristic
sunglasses gave a glimpse into what the next
half-century might bring… LUCY HALFHEAD

84 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | April 2020 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk


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STYLE

MY
LIFE,
MY
STYLE
Dior’s Rachele Regini has
adorned her Chelsea home
with colourful artworks and
feminist literature that inspire
her diverse wardrobe
By LUCY HALFHEAD
Photographs by JOSH SHINNER

R achele Regini opens the door


to her first-floor Chelsea apart-
ment, situated on a quiet, leafy
square between the stylish boutiques of the
King’s Road and the upmarket furniture
Above: Rachele Regini in
her living-room, wearing
silk shirt, £1,700; leather
trousers, £3,100; brass and
crystal necklace, £1,300;
leather loafers, £830; socks,
shops of Brompton Cross. The bright space
£350, all Dior. Bracelet;
is filled with tributes to her close-knit family, rings(worn throughout),
including a series of beautiful black and all Rachele’s own
white portraits of Regini with her
mother, Dior’s artistic director Maria
Grazia Chiuri, that hang in the hall-
way. ‘We’re spending even more time
together,’ Regini says, referring to her
new role working alongside Chiuri
as an advisor to the Dior creative
studio. ‘My job is to make sure that
all our ideas about gender, cultural
appropriation and the academic side
of what my mother decides to incor-
porate into the collections are
well-researched.’
Regini grew up in Rome, where
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STYLE

her mother worked as a designer at Fendi,


as part of the team that developed the
famous Baguette handbag. ‘There are pic-
tures of me aged three in the showroom,
organising bags with my brother,’ Regini
says. ‘When I was a child, fashion was a
part of everything that we did, but it was
never glamorised – it was just my mum’s
job.’ As a teenager, she used to take days off
school to go to the shows.
At the time, Chiuri was pro-
ducing spectacular catwalk
looks at Valentino with her
‘Creative
long-time creative partner people are
Pierpaolo Piccioli, modern-
ising the brand’s couture and
sponges – ‘I had never lived alone
pushing it to the forefront of
the industry. ‘I attended a
they capture before, and was anxious,
but my mum told me
Catholic institution in the everything’ not to worry – if you fail,
local neighbourhood and, like you just come back to
other people my age, I rem- Rome,’ she says. ‘She
ember just wanting to blend in with my gave me a safety net – this idea that failure
friends,’ she says. ‘But I always felt like I was was OK.’ Regini’s move to the British
the weird one who didn’t fit in.’ capital was also key to the evolution of
By 16, Regini had relocated to London her own look: ‘I met so many people from
in order to study at an international college. different backgrounds, and I realised no
one cared what I wore. That’s when I started
developing a type of style.’ She went on
to complete an art-history degree at Gold-
smiths University, before studying for a
masters in gender, media and culture. ‘I
had been reading so much about women in
art, and performance artists like Carolee
Schneemann, so it was the logical next
step,’ she says.
It was Regini who first introduced her
mother to the influential feminist essay
‘Why have there been no great women
artists?’ by the art historian Linda Nochlin.
‘When something excites me, I talk to my
mother about it,’ she says. ‘Creative people

Left: silk and cotton


bustier, £1,650; silk
shirt, £1,450;
silk and cotton
trousers, £1,050;
glass and brass
necklace, £830,
all Dior. Far right:
the hallway

88 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | April 2020 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk


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Left: silk and cotton


dress, £3,000;
cotton shirt, £1,050;
leather boots, £1,290;
cotton socks, £350;
brass and crystal
necklace, £850, all
Dior. Right: Regini
and her mother
Maria Grazia Chiuri

are sponges – they capture everything. We


would give each other books to read, like
having a book club between the two of
us.’ Chiuri went on to include Nochlin’s
quote on a Breton-striped shirt for Dior’s also home to a collection of colourful objets
spring/summer 2018 collection – a typic- d’art, including a Mexican-inspired skull
ally courageous move that epitomises her covered in mosaic tiles that she found in a
belief in fashion as a force fleamarket in Pasadena, Cali-
for female empowerment. fornia, and prints by female
‘Everyone has this idea that artists including the fashion
Dior is a feminine brand, but photographer Deborah Turb-
the notion of femininity has eville. In the master bedroom,
changed so much in the past there is a floor-to-ceiling neon
20 years,’ Regini says. ‘So, it light shaped into the word
made sense for my mum to ‘peace’ in 12 different lan-
say, let’s look at what it guages, and above the bed
means today and present are cushions knitted by the
that to everyone.’ wives of World War I soldiers,
The pair’s shared passion discovered at a vintage fair
for feminist literature and history is reflected and now displayed in glass cases.
in the contents of Regini’s bookshelves, A rummage inside Regini’s wardrobe
which feature authors such as Chimamanda reveals an assortment of retro clothes, along-
Ngozi Adichie (Chiuri’s friend and collabo- side the latest Dior designs, including a fluffy
rator), Zadie Smith, Germaine Greer, Erica shearling coat and biker boots. ‘My mum is
Jong, Virginia Woolf, Shulamith Firestone crazy about vintage and has been taking me
and Simone de Beauvoir. Her apartment is to fairs and shops since I was four. I buy so
much of it!’ she says. Sacai, Isabel Marant
and Miu Miu are other favourites, as well as
Levi’s for its Re/Done jeans. Her jewellery
box includes earrings by the Italian brand

Right: leather coat,


£5,300; leather
bag, £3,000,
both Dior
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STYLE

Left: dress, £8,900;


cotton T-shirt, £510;
knickers, £700; cotton
socks, £350; brass
and pearl earring
(sold singly), £340,

SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS. STYLED BY GEORGIA MEDLEY. HAIR BY MATHIEU SIMO. MAKE-UP BY JAMIE COOMBES, USING DIOR. PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF RACHELE REGINI
all Dior. Above:
a photograph of
Regini’s parents Attilio Codognato, charms by
Samuel François and studs from
Maria Tash. ‘I love the Seventies, and
Anita Pallenberg, but what I wear
changes depending on where I am,’
she says. ‘In Paris, I’m more conven-
tionally feminine than London, where
I dress more punk. In Rome, it’s
relaxed and laid-back. I think it makes
a difference for young people to see
that there’s not just one model of what
being female looks like.’

RACHELE’S WORLD
Eight Hour
Cream Intensive £1,290
Secret Lip Repair Dior
Camouflage, Balm, £20
£28.50 Laura Elizabeth Arden
Mercier Hat,
Reverence £550
Aromatique Dior
Hand Wash,
£27 Aesop

From a
selection
Dior

£2,000
Dior

90 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | April 2020 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk


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NEXT MONTH, FREE WITH

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KATY YOUNG Beauty director

2 APRIL
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T H E S T Y L E G U I D E

NO 1
Let loose
Oversize tonal tie-dye
is the ultimate in casual
cool. Team it with a
patchwork suede
bag for carefree
practicality.

GLOBE
TROTTER
Travel the world with free-spirited flair in natural fabrics and eye-catching patterns
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOSH SHINNER STYLED BY FLORRIE THOMAS
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NO 2

Chain
reaction
An all-cream outfit is
elegantly elevated by
a gleaming gold
link necklace.

THIS PAGE: cotton shirt,


£310, Forte-Forte. Cotton
jacket, £225, Ba&sh. Gold
and diamond earrings, £495,
Annoushka. Gold and quartz
necklace, £3,595, Cassandra
Goad. OPPOSITE: silk top,
£125; matching trousers, £150,
both Gerard Darel. Suede bag,
£780, Alberta Ferretti. Silk neck
scarf, £85, Lalage Beaumont.
Gold, jade and diamond
ring, £1,440, Gucci
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STYLE

NO 3

Loop the loop


Whether knitted or woven, double up on textures – but keep the hues harmonious.
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NO 4
Cover
all bases
A floaty bohemian kaftan will
carry you effortlessly from dawn
to dusk – add charm with a
talismanic necklace.

THIS PAGE: silk crepe dress,


£950, Zaeem Jamal. Leather
sandals, £150, Coach 1941.
Gold and diamond earrings,
£495, Annoushka. Gold-plated
silver and lapis lazuli necklace,
£270, Giovanni Raspini.
OPPOSITE: linen and silk
dress, £1,580, Loro Piana.
Leather and raffia bag,
£215, Gerard Darel

JOSH SHINNER
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NO 5
Blanket
statement
Try a light quilted
jacket for a more
wearable take on the
duvet-coat trend.

JOSH SHINNER
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STYLE

THIS PAGE: linen jacket,


£380; metal and shell necklace,
£80, both Forte-Forte. Cotton
dress, £660, Paul Smith.
OPPOSITE: cotton and linen
jacket, £255, Ba&sh. Cotton
top, £188, the Kooples.
Cotton trousers, £85, Levi’s.
Gold-plated earrings, £135,
Giovanni Raspini. Gold
and diamond necklace,
£1,200, Annoushka NO 6

Pockets of time
Colourful embroidery inspired by Aztec motifs offers a playful geometric touch.
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STYLE

Cotton-mix dress, £145, DKNY.


Paper hat, £250, Loro Piana.
Raffia, pearl, jasper and quartz
necklace, £155, Forte-Forte.
Gold and citrine ring, £1,600,
Kiki McDonough

NO 7

Hats off
A floppy wide-brim crafted from paper lends an artisanal edge to any ensemble.
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Cotton voile dress, £1,880, Tory

WORDS BY BROOKE THEIS. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS. HAIR BY YOSHITAKA MITAZAKI, USING BUMBLE AND BUMBLE. MAKE-UP BY VICTORIA BOND, USING CHANEL DESERT DREAMS AND LE LIFT. STYLIST’S ASSISTANT: SOPHIE CHAPMAN. MODEL: ANA FLAVIA AT VIVA LONDON
Burch. Leather sandals, £635,
Manolo Blahnik. Leather and
raffia bag, £325, Gerard Darel.
Gold and diamond earrings,
£1,500, Annoushka. Gold ring,
£1,895, Cassandra Goad

NO 8

Adorning
fans
Tiers of pretty pleats
perfectly accent a
delicately tactile lace
and cotton dress.

JOSH SHINNER
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ACCESSORIES

Edited by AVRIL MAIR

FORGET
ME NOT
A vibrant journey through decades past,
finding inspiration in Sixties florals, Seventies
high shine and Eighties graphic prints

£2,090
Fendi
SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS

Photograph by PAUL ZAK


Styled by TILLY WHEATING
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ACCESSORIES Necklace,
£620
Theodora
£5,000 Warre
£395
Fendi
Simone
Rocha
Scarf, £140 £580
Fendi Fabrizio Viti

£1,190
Alexander Brooch, £605
McQueen Chanel

£3,300 Dior
£490 £320
Fendi Celine by Hedi Slimane

£650
Fendi

£590
Fendi
Bangle, £560
Hermès
£9,500
Ralph & Russo

£320
Erdem

About £150
Suryo

£1,520
Ralph Lauren £510
Collection Alberta
£1,800 Ferretti
Loewe

£665 Brooch,
Manolo £750
Blahnik Louis
Vuitton

£295
Chloé

£2,390
Scarf, about Fendi
£100 Givenchy
SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
PHOTOGRAPHS: PIXELATE.

£1,120
Miu Miu

£506
Rochas

104 | | April 2020


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BOOGIE NIGHTS
Get in the groove with a dazzling pair
of disco heels

£3,700
Bottega
Veneta

PAUL ZAK
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£395
Escada ACCESSORIES
Necklace, £345
Christopher
Kane

From a
selection £570
Balenciaga Michael Kors
£370 Collection
Ermanno
Scervino
£875
Valentino
Garavani

£450 £2,285
Louis Vuitton Ralph Lauren
Collection

From a
selection
Balenciaga

From a £550
selection Simone Rocha
Balenciaga

£2,510
Bulgari
From a
selection
Dolce &
Gabbana

£550
Miu Miu
Necklace,
from a
selection
Chloé

£360 £645
Emporio Prada
Armani

£188 £665
Christian £480
Miu Miu
Louboutin The Attico x Linda Farrow
PHOTOGRAPHS: PIXELATE. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS

£1,100
Saint Laurent
£1,890 by Anthony
Alexander Vaccarello
£910 McQueen
Chanel

Earrings, £525
Saint Laurent
by Anthony
Necklace,
Vaccarello
£620
Chanel

April 2020 | | 107


www.harpersbazaar.com/uk H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R
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BACK TO
THE FUTURE
Hit rewind with Louis Vuitton’s
nostalgic video-cassette bag

£3,900
Louis Vuitton

PAUL ZAK
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ACCESSORIES
£1,225
Bottega Veneta Scarf, £185
Hermès
£450
Erdem

Bracelet, £110
Daphine
£715
Salvatore
Ferragamo

Necklace, from a
selection
Saint Laurent
by Anthony
Vaccarello

£1,440
Prada Ring, about
£240
Givenchy

£3,995 £330
Chanel Celine by £3,100 £430
Hedi Slimane Dior Fendi

£225
Ring, £240 Miu Miu
Dior £1,850
Bottega Veneta

Belt bag,
about £830
£990 Givenchy
Celine by Hedi
Slimane
£645
Louis Vuitton

£1,100
Celine by Hedi
Slimane

£279
Fendi

Bracelet, £350
£590 Saint Laurent
Fendi by Anthony
PHOTOGRAPHS: PIXELATE. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS

Vaccarello

£695
Manolo Blahnik

Earrings,
£1,450
Dior

£375
Coach 1941 £1,250
Fendi

£595
Chanel

£850
Louis
Vuitton

April 2020 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | 109


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MUSIC OF THE
SPHER ES
Time and space interweave in a harmonious portfolio
of watches and the wisdom of women
Photographs by LARA JADE

Styled by ROSIE ARKELL-PALMER & TILLY WHEATING

Omega
CREPE DE CHINE DRESS, ABOUT £1,400, GIVENCHY

All prices
throughout from
a selection, except
Edited by KIM PARKER where stated
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JEWELLERY

‘Oh, stars, and dreams, and gentle night;


Oh, night and stars, return!’
EMILY BRONTË

Rolex
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JEWELLERY

From top: Bulgari.


Jaeger-LeCoultre
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‘The darkest night that ever fell upon the earth


never hid the light, never put out the stars.
It only made the stars more keenly, kindly
glancing, as if in protest against the darkness’
GEORGE ELIOT

From left: Vacheron


Constantin. Chopard
SILK SHIRT, £1,540, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI. CREPE DE CHINE SHORTS, £375, MAX MARA

LARA JADE
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‘When you consider things like the stars, our


affairs don’t seem to matter very much, do they?’
VIRGINIA WOOLF

Patek Philippe

LARA JADE
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JEWELLERY

From top: Chanel.


£1,050, Longines
SATIN DRESS, £570, TORY BURCH
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JEWELLERY

‘I only know that when you shall come back


again, the Earth will seem more beautiful, and
bigger than it does now, and the blue sky from
the window will be all dotted with gold’
EMILY DICKINSON

Cartier High Jewellery

SILK MIX DRESS, £1,005, MAX MARA

LARA JADE
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Right: Gucci.
Below: Hermès
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From top: £6,200, Dior.


£2,670, Rado

‘I’ll fill your heaven with many coloured moons


And hang such variable tides upon them
As strew the astonished fish along the shores’
VITA SACKVILLE-WEST
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JEWELLERY

Above: Breguet. Right:


Van Cleef & Arpels

LARA JADE
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JEWELLERY

‘No pessimist ever discovered the secret of the


stars, or sailed to an uncharted land, or opened
a new doorway for the human spirit’
HELEN KELLER

From left: Audemars Piguet.


Piaget

LARA JADE
CLOQUÉ
PHOTOGRAPH: £1,080, EMILIA WICKSTEAD. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS. HAIR BY ANASTASIA STYLIANOV AT THE ONLY AGENCY, USING MOROCCANOIL. MAKE-UP BY AMY
DRESS,XXXXXX
BRANDON. MANICURE BY SABRINA GAYLE AT THE WALL GROUP. SET DESIGN BY JACKI CASTELLI AT LALALAND ARTISTS. MODEL: NADIA ARAUJO AT SELECT LONDON

£14,550,
From left:

Blancpain
Richard Mille.
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AT WORK

Edited by LYDIA SLATER

£240
Bottega
Veneta

K
ZA
L
U
P ho PA
tog ra ph b y Wallet, about £400
Givenchy

iPhone cover,
£150
Balenciaga

Purse, £140 £15,000


Aspinal of London Boodles
stick in
I n te nse Lip Brown
Shine o b bi
Luxe Lily, £28 B
r
Powe Urban
Protect Day
Moisturiser
and Primer,
£160
Dr Michael
ARKELL -PA
O SIE LM Prager
R Skincare
by
ER
ed
Styl

From a
From a
selection
selection
Harry
Boodles
Winston

RICH SEAM
Strike gold with a precious vein of gilded accents running £895
CH Carolina
through an elegant coal-black business look Herrera
SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
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- REPORT-

Q:CAN
YOU HELP
OTHER
WOMEN TO
THE TOP?
A: O In a society where professional
opportunities still tend to be dominated by
ne of the most memorable films about women and
work is All About Eve, starring Bette Davis as Margo
Channing, a Broadway star whose career is threatened
by a young rival, Eve Harrington, played by Anne Baxter.
men, supporting our female colleagues and It’s the classic story of an elegant, inevitable bitch fight between
two women who could have worked brilliantly together. Instead,
making productive connections may be the they have to hate each other and the message is: ‘This town ain’t
route to gender equality in the workplace big enough for the both of us.’ The film, which was also recently
adapted into a theatre production starring Gillian Anderson and
Lily James, concludes that if women are to succeed, it will only
By VIV GROSKOP be one at a time. Anything you win will be at the expense of some-
one else and you will have to destroy her to get it – a storyline
that also plays out, somewhat gleefully, in the multi-award-winning
2018 drama The Favourite.
Delicious and entertaining as I find such stories, I think they
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AT WORK

careers, when they could easily have been rivals. Both Booker
Prize winners, Margaret Atwood and Bernardine Evaristo
have long been noted for championing debut writers. Phoebe
Waller-Bridge continues to work with Vicky Jones, the director
of the original Edinburgh run of Fleabag, and Olivia Colman
has used many of her award speeches to credit the work of her
female co-stars.
Social media and the rise of face-to-face women’s networks
in numerous companies are also helping to foster the idea that
none of us has to do anything alone. When you need help, it’s
far easier now to find someone and ask them than it was, say, 10
years ago. The trick is to do so responsibly and courteously.
Think about how you would want to be asked and what it would
have made us swallow a nasty, untrue narrative about female take you to say yes. Learn to respect people’s time and send
ambition. The trouble is, we rarely hear the antidote to tales of (very) short emails. Be graceful in the face of indifference –
Machiavellian women hampering one another’s success. In my and of ‘no’, too. Think as much as you can about what you can
experience, in real life we are not especially comfortable shaft- easily and painlessly do for others, and do it without an agenda.
ing others to get what we want; in fact, we are more likely to get Send thank-you notes. Let people know when they helped you.
a kick out of helping them. In the words of Serena Williams, ‘the It’s also good to be upfront. Ask younger colleagues ‘What
success of every woman should be an inspiration to another’. can I do to help you out?’, and be honest with them about what
I only got my first break in writing is realistic and what is pie in the sky. You
when I was doing work experience on a may not be able to get them a job or a
magazine because a young editor took We are usually taught pay rise, but you can connect them with
the time to talk to me and trusted me someone in your circle with whom you
to help her with her workload. That to mistrust one think they would have a good conversa-
was on Cosmopolitan 25 years ago, and
the woman was Kath Viner, now the
another – an attitude tion. The more straightforward you are
about this, the easier it is. So many
first female editor of The Guardian. I’ve that makes little potential moments of support are poi-
lost count of the women who have given soned by someone thinking, ‘Is this
me an email address or an introduction sense in a working person networking because they want
when I desperately needed it. Yes, there
are male colleagues who have done a
world that is still something out of me?’ Anything any of
us can do to make connections genuine
lot for me too. But I particularly notice terribly unequal is worthwhile; be clear that the intro-
and appreciate such generosity from duction is being made because these
my female counterparts because we two people really are like-minded, not
are usually taught to mistrust one another – an attitude that because it is a transaction or a deal.
makes little sense in a working world that is still terribly unequal. I recently interviewed Aline Santos, the vice-president of
In Silicon Valley, just 11 per cent of senior executives are marketing at Unilever, for my podcast How to Own the Room. She
women, according to the research group Inspiring Women in told me about how, during her early career back in the 1980s,
PHOTOGRAPH: AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA

Technology. The recent Opportunity Insights project at Harvard she wore glasses and men’s blazers to look more serious, and
showed that, currently, about 41 per cent of men will out-earn even put on aftershave to avoid distracting her male colleagues
their father, compared with only one in four women. And last with perfume. Times have changed, and now we expect to
year, the World Economic Forum warned that it will take succeed as ourselves – not to have to blaze a lone trail wearing
100 years to achieve gender equality. Clearly, as women we borrowed clothes. I like to think that nowadays Eve Harrington
have a lot to gain by ‘lifting’ each other as we climb. wouldn’t stalk Margo and try to oust her. Instead, they’d form
The good news is that today’s society abounds with stories of a production company and succeed together.
women who are doing exactly this. Tina Fey and Amy Poehler ‘Lift As You Climb: Women and the Art of Ambition’ by Viv Groskop
have spoken about their support for each other through their (£12.99, Transworld) is out now.

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TALKING POINTS

Edited by HELENA LEE

A detail of a
woman’s kimono
from the 1800s

THREADS
OF TIME
PHOTOGRAPH: © KHALILI COLLECTION

The emotive power of the kimono down the centuries. Plus: the
English National Ballet marks 70 years with a daring new production; a fresh
perspective on Andy Warhol; and a life-affirming Toni Morrison documentary
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TALKING POINTS
Right: Rowan
Hisayo Buchanan’s
great-grandmother.
Below, far right: a
detail of a kimono
made in India in
about 1700 for the
Dutch market

Above: a 1934 silk


crepe wedding
kimono. Right:
EXHIBITIONS
a 19th-century Above, left and
Japanese-tailored bottom: panels
men’s under-kimono

MATERIAL from a
19th-century
triptych showing
kimono fabrics.

WITNESSES Below: a
woman’s
short-sleeve

T
he first kimono I kimono (kosode)
saw hung as art was
Ahead of the V&A’s vibrant
above a staircase. exhibition uncovering the history
The arms were out-
stretched like the wooden Jesus
of the kimono, Rowan Hisayo Buchanan
I’d seen in museums, or my mother reflects on the personal stories
when she wanted me to run to her. It
was tangerine silk. A flock of finely
that are woven into these photographs. It seemed both
embroidered cranes, white-winged and red- garments wonderful and entirely foreign,
capped, flung into flight across it. The light like a dragon perching unexpect-
caught their feathers. I wanted to touch it, to press my edly in a London house.
face against it. But it was beyond my reach. Perhaps as an adult, Another memory: sitting on the dark parquet floor
I might have been able to grab the hem. It hovered above the hands of my grandparents’ apartment in New York. My grand-
of the child who did not yet know her multiplication tables. father is unwell and it is hard for us to go out. So, we
Later, I asked my mother why it was there. She replied that the linger indoors. On the table is a bowl of fruit cut for me.
house owners, an English couple, had spent many years in Japan. My All day the television is set to the NHK, the Japan-
mother had not understood my question. What ese version of the BBC. My mother
I had meant was more sweeping: why would you is translating the period drama as
hang clothes on a wall rather than wear them? we watch. There is a rivalry between
Why was it so beautiful, who had made such a two court ladies, one rich and cruel,
thing, who had worn it, was there a chance that one poorer but good. They encounter each other
I would someday stroke the backs of those birds? by chance on a narrow wooden walkway. The
Perhaps the mistress of the house might have rich woman says to the poor: ‘Nice kimono.’
answered such questions, but I was a little intimi- My mother explains this is an insult. The
dated – she was a creature of gold and glitter. poorer woman has not been able to update her
I could not, at the time, relate that finery to the kimono with the season. I am confused. My
kimono I’d seen on my dead relatives in faded mother tells me that in Japan at that time, the

130 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | April 2020 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk


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patterns of your kimono matched the season: maple leaf for autumn,
plum blossom for winter, and so on. This unfortunate woman is out CULTURE
of season and out of place.
Later, I will realise that the garment my grandfather was wearing
was also a kimono – though it had no seasonal motif. On the rare
H O NOUR
occasions we go out, he will, with pain and effort, ease into beige
trousers and a polo shirt. But in the apartment, he wears his yukata OF ge’s blue plaques
– a thin, unlined kimono, cotton not silk. He wears it over loose
S rita pay
He age to a roll-cal

E
pyjamas. It is not chosen for fashion or to impress, but because it is
m l of

sh
comfortable and light. Heart surgery has left him tired. This kimono o

BA DG
h h

gli
will never be exhibited. Yet, it feels closest to the meaning of the

En

er
oin
term. Break down the parts of kimono and you get wearing
plus thing . It’s a simple word, suited to his humble garment. Now By CATRIONA GRAY

es
he is gone, his bones are no longer able to hold
up any fabric. In his funeral portrait, he is Take a stroll around central London and you’re bound
wearing a suit, but a decade after his death, I to spot one of English Heritage’s iconic blue plaques,
long to loop the yukata’s indigo cloth around which mark the former homes of famous novelists,
my hands. artists and all manner of changemakers. Each year, a
The reason these kimono memories have handful of new names are announced, but in 2020 all
flown into my head is that, this spring, there is of the commemorative signs will be dedicated to
an exhibition coming to the V&A that promises women for the first time since the scheme began.
to show us the garment from 1660 to the present There’s the Hampstead property of the sculptor
day. I’m intrigued by the catalogue. It describes Barbara Hepworth, the Westminster headquarters of
the ways kimono allowed wearers to display two major suffragette organisations, and the Cam-
their stories: who they were, what they aspired den townhouse that once belonged to Helen
to, the rules they flouted and the lines they toed. Gwynne-Vaughan. A little-known figure
There’s one story about a 17th-century mer- who lived an extraordinary life, Gwynne-
chant who had his lands and houses confiscated Vaughan shunned the traditional route of
by the shogun due to his wife’s inappropriately a Victorian debutante to become a trail-
extravagant kimono. I learn that in the Edo blazing scientist and professor of botany,
period, there was a fashion for red undergar- then went on to head the women’s branch of
ments, and that the bridal headgear from the the British Army at the outbreak of World War II.
same era was called a horn-concealer, owing to Thrillingly, the list is completed by two female
the popular belief that after marriage, the bride spies. The first is Noor Inayat Khan, an Indian princess
would hide her horns of jealousy to be a good wife. Samuel Pepys, who was recruited by British intelligence, captured
eyewitness to the Great Fire of London, was the owner of a kimono- in France while on a government mission and died in
esque garment. David Bowie was inspired by Dachau concentration camp in 1944 aged 30. The
Japanese dress when designing the clothes second, Christine Granville, was a Polish-born secret
for his alter ego Ziggy Stardust, and went so agent who won numerous military honours for her
COURTESY OF ROWAN HISAYO BUCHANAN, © RIJKSMUSEUM, COURTESY OF THE JOSHIBI ART MUSEUM
PHOTOGRAPHS: © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM LONDON, COURTESY OF THE KHALILI COLLECTION,

far as to learn how to apply make-up under bravery and was the inspiration for several heroines in
the guidance of a kabuki actor. Ian Fleming’s James Bond novels, including the double
I think back to that flock of cranes. I agent Vesper Lynd in Casino Royale.
realise it may have been a bridal uchikake – At present, only a minority of blue plaques are dedi-
an exquisitely decorated outer kimono worn cated to women, making this year’s crop all the more
during the wedding banquet. After guessing valuable in unearthing forgotten female histories and
this, it seems suddenly fragile. I imagine a firing the imaginations of generations to come.
girl, her heart still new, carried by these birds English Heritage’s new collection of blue plaques will be
into her future. announced on 8 March.
I think of my grandfather at the end of his
life, his hands jittering with Parkinson’s, the
words shaking out of his throat. I think that
there must have been a final time his long Who’s that girl?
brown arms tucked themselves into indigo An eye-catching red kimono design
blue. I wonder if he knew it was the last. created by Jean Paul Gaultier for
I will go to the show. I will admire the Madonna’s music video ‘Nothing Really
kimono, the wood-block prints, the hair Above: Matters’ appears in the V&A show.
combs and paintings. I will look and look. I doubt Kobayakawa Our limited-edition cover, exclusively
I’ll be able to touch. I hope to glimpse the lives Kiyoshi’s ‘Kaidan available at the museum shop, features
that once filled silk and cotton. (Staircase)’. Right: an image originally shot for a 1999
‘Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk’ is at the V&A (www. Bazaar’s V&A issue of Bazaar, paying tribute to that
vam.ac.uk) from 29 February to 21 June. limited-edition cover remarkable collaboration.

April 2020 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | 131


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DANCE

BODY
LANGUAGE

On the 70th anniversary of the


English National Ballet, its visionary
artistic director Tamara Rojo and the
choreographer Akram Khan have
collaborated on a bold original work
By HELENA LEE

Photographs by RICHARD PHIBBS

Styled by ROSIE ARKELL-PALMER Tamara Rojo wears


crepe body, £1,190;
silk chiffon shorts
and skirt, £3,225,
all Chanel
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TALKING POINTS
Far right:
Tamara Rojo wears
cotton cardigan, £3,160;
silk chiffon skirt, £7,990,
both Chanel. Ring, her
own. Akram Khan wears
grosgrain jacket; silk
poplin shirt, both from a
selection, Alexander
McQueen. Hat and
trousers, his own.
Below: Rojo’s pointe shoes

T amara Rojo and Akram Khan are leaning on a ballet


barre, engaged in a tête-à-tête. It says a lot about
their work ethic that a photo-shoot with Bazaar
SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS. MAKE-UP BY GINA KANE AT CAREN, USING CHANEL DESERT DREAM AND LE LIFT. HAIR BY EARL SIMMS

doubles as an opportunity to discuss their upcoming produc-


AT CAREN, USING AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT. MANICURE BY MICHELLE HUMPHREY AT LMC WORLDWIDE, USING BIO SCULPTURE

tion Creature, inspired by Woyzeck, an expressionist drama by


the German playwright Georg Büchner, and Mary Shelley’s
Frankenstein. They’re about to start rehearsing in earnest at the
English National Ballet’s new east-London headquarters, and tackle a new story. Set in a military facility in the Arctic, where
there’s a frisson of expectation around the reuniting of these the ice is melting, Creature will address two urgent issues that
two creative visionaries. are shaping our world: climate change and artificial intelligence.
This will be the second time that the artistic director of the ‘We need to have conversations about the morality behind tech-
ENB and the choreographer have collaborated on a full-length nological advances,’ says Rojo. ‘The beauty of dance is that it’s
piece; the first was Giselle in 2016, a triumph of dynamic reinter- about emotions. The issues around the creation of life or artifi-
pretation that broke classical rules by weaving in multifarious cial intelligence are not just about facts, but about asking how
influences and giving focus to the recent migration crises. Rojo we feel about this. It’s a perfect subject to express in movement.’
had wanted to bring Khan on board from the moment she joined Creature will form part of the ENB’s 70th-anniversary pro-
the company eight years ago. ‘Akram tells stories that are both gramme, which also features Rojo’s first foray into choreography
British and relevant on a wider cultural level,’ she tells me. ‘I with Raymonda, and beloved classics such as The Nutcracker.
genuinely believe that his language was appropriate for a ballet Now that the company is operating from a purpose-built space
company for today, and we could find a new language together.’ in City Island with state-of-the-art facilities including a costume
Her decision was not without risk: Khan, whose background is atelier supported by Chanel, the possibilities are boundless.
in classical Indian and contemporary dance, was entering the ‘The building is the physical affirmation of our ethos – conceived
rarefied world of ballet, while Rojo, against a backdrop of budget as a transparent home for dance, so that it can reach the widest
cuts and scrutiny, had ‘decided to ask a Bangladeshi choreo- possible audience,’ says Rojo. Here, apprentices can gain skills
grapher to break this untouchable masterwork apart’. ‘The in every aspect of the backstage process, from stage manage-
whole process was about understanding tradition, but removing ment to production, as part of an ongoing outreach programme.
the layers of dust,’ she says. ‘In understanding the original Giselle, ‘I am the caretaker of a legacy – a culmination of many people’s
we created something completely different.’ Khan agrees: ‘It was sacrifices to bring the company to where we are now,’ Rojo
about stretching and pushing the boundaries of the art form. We says of her vision. ‘At the same time, it’s my duty to create the
have very different cultural perspectives, but we share similar legacy of the future.’
aesthetics, principles and value systems.’ ‘Creature’ by Akram Khan is performed by the English National Ballet
For their next project, Rojo felt strongly that they should at Sadler’s Wells from 1 to 8 April (www.ballet.org.uk/creature).

www.harpersbazaar.com/uk April 2020 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | 133


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TALKING POINTS
Left: Andydevout followers of the Byzantine Ruthenian
Warhol’s ‘Julia
Catholic Church, imbuing in their son a strong reli-
Warhola’ gious conviction that he never entirely lost, despite
(1974)
his liberal outlook and queer identity. (The theme of
faith recurs in much of his art, from his depictions of the Christian
cross to his portrait of Marilyn Monroe against a circular golden
backdrop, in the style of a Renaissance devotional painting.)
Warhol and his mother were extremely close: the pair would
while away the hours in Pittsburgh doing arts and crafts together,
and some of his earliest commissions as an illustrator were produced
in collaboration with Julia, whose beautiful looping handwriting he
used in books such as 25 Cats Name Sam and One Blue Pussy (Warhol
rather charmingly chose not to correct her grammatical error). She
even came to live with him in New York after he bought his first
home there in 1959, using the money made from his burgeoning
artistic career. The rapidity of Warhol’s ascent from abject poverty
to affluence owes much to the attitude of sheer persistence he learnt
from his family: just as Julia once went from door to door selling
painted Easter eggs in Pittsburgh, he was not afraid to hustle
for work at glossy magazines including Harper’s Bazaar, for whose
pages he created vibrant illustrations of shoes, perfumes and cars.

© 2020 THE ANDY WARHOL FOUNDATION FOR THE VISUAL ARTS, INC/LICENSED BY DACS, LONDON, KEN HEYMAN, CJ HENDRY. ILLUSTRATIONS BY KRISTINA HARRISON
Although Warhol inherited Julia’s

PHOTOGRAPHS: THE ANDY WARHOL MUSEUM, PITTSBURGH, PA © 2020 THE ANDY WARHOL FOUNDATION FOR THE VISUAL ARTS, INC/LICENSED BY DACS, LONDON,
courageous spirit, he also appears to

I
just happen to like ordinary ART have retained from his youth a certain
things,’ Andy Warhol once melancholy awareness of mortality,
said. ‘When I paint them, I having witnessed his father’s untimely
don’t try to make them extraor-
dinary. I just try to paint them
FAMILY death in 1942 and his mother’s battle
with colon cancer in 1944. This mani-
ordinary-ordinary.’
‘Ordinary’ is hardly a term most PORTR AIT fested itself in a sense of urgency
throughout his career, from his move
of us associate with an artist who away from illustration and towards
has acquired a semi-mythical status
Tate Modern’ s Andy Warhol silk-screen portraiture in the 1960s,
in our collective cultural imagination, retrospective offers a unique insight to his experimental film-making and
as a chronicler of celebrity life and a his triumphant return to painting fol-
pioneer of the 1950s pop art phenom-
into the visionary artist’ s complex lowing the trauma of his attempted
enon. Yet Warhol was sceptical about life and enduring influence assassination in 1968. The exhibition
the terminology used to describe the will end with Warhol’s 1986 opus
movement, preferring to brand his By FRANCES HEDGES Sixty Last Suppers, a monumental work
work as a form of ‘commonism’, in inspired by the themes of religion and
reference to its humble subject matter and loss in Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece. This
democratic purpose. He was fascinated by might seem an unexpected note on which to
the levelling power of mass consumerism, conclude a show about an artist commonly
arguing that ‘what’s great about this country considered in the context of colour, life and
is that America started the tradition where hedonism, but perhaps the reappraisal is
the richest consumers buy essentially the overdue. As Warhol said: ‘They always say
same things as the poorest’. time changes things, but you actually have to
Warhol was something of a sphinx-like change them yourself.’
figure, prone to cryptic statements and con- ‘Andy Warhol’ is at Tate Modern (www.tate.org.
Above: Andy Warhol
tradictions. But for Gregor Muir, the curator with his mother. Right:
uk) from 12 March to 6 September.
of Tate Modern’s new exhibition dedicated his ‘Marilyn Monroe’s
to his art, understanding the ‘real’ Warhol Lips’ (1962)
begins with delving into his prehistory. As
part of his research, Muir travelled to the Eastern Carpathians, a
region of what is now northern Slovakia, where the artist’s mother
Julia Warhola lived before she emigrated to America. ‘I was struck
by how remote it is, and by the overwhelming religious presence –
even today, there’s almost no vantage point from which you can’t see
a cross,’ he says. ‘When Julia came to America, she’d have brought
the culture and beliefs of her home country with her.’ Once in
Pittsburgh, where Warhol was born in 1928, the family remained

134 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | April 2020


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TECHNOLOGY

I M AGI N
FA S H I O N
N E T WO RK
ART
F
O of CJ Hendry com A
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et
A trio of stylish apps

T
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ON
or

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ht,

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Conceived by Bazaar’s former

PIG

eb
editor Lucy Yeomans, Drest is the
first interactive fashion game: put Th
together outfits from brands such
as Prada and Gucci to unlock
challenges and win clothing.

The New York-based artist CJ Hendry is set to exhibit her


Combyne latest body of work, comprising 50 hyper-realistic drawings
Revive your existing wardrobe of flower petals, in the unusual setting of an east-London
with Combyne, an app that church. This immersive show will also see 10 tonnes of
catalogues your clothes and recyclable white confetti fall gradually from the ceiling, in
allows you to choose from the a project that symbolises the fleeting nature of beauty. FH
latest designer offerings to ‘Epilogue’ runs from 3 to 12 April at the New Testament
countless different looks. Church of God, 43 Morgan Street, London E3.

Prêt-à-Template
Roberta Weiand, a former graphic
designer at Dolce & Gabbana, has
launched a drawing app that lets
users sketch ensembles on more
than 500 figures. NATALIE SALMON
All apps are available on the App
Store or Google Play.

DESIGN

FORCES OF
N AT U R E
Erdem Moralioglu has collaborated with the historic interiors brand
de Gournay to produce a hand-painted, silk-panelled wallpaper featuring
colourful flora and birds. The richly romantic pattern has also been used
to create the designer’s S/S 20 capsule collection of diaphanous
dresses, fluted skirts and elegantly frilled tops in three colours –
perfectly combining the distinctive charm of both houses. BROOKE THEIS
www.erdem.com; www.degournay.com
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TALKING POINTS
while building her own extraordinary career, not to mention
Toni raising her two sons alone (she was divorced from her husband,
Morrison Harold Morrison). Her first novel, The Bluest Eye, was published
in 1970, when she was approaching 40, and Beloved, her most
famous work, came out in 1987. It went on to win the Pulitzer
Prize, and Jonathan Demme’s cinematic adaptation, starring
Oprah Winfrey, appeared 11 years later. In 1993, Morrison
became the first African-American woman to receive the Nobel
Prize in Literature.
What is clear from Greenfield-Sanders’ documentary is
Morrison’s marvellous sense of presence. Looking straight at
the camera, she is shown laughing, serious, open, truthful,
whether she’s talking about the significance of her work or
about baking (her carrot cake was famous). Halfway through,
she refers to a review of her second novel Sula, which appeared
in 1973. The critic called the book and its characters ‘provincial’,
which seems simply to have been a code for ‘black’. ‘I spent my
writing life trying to make sure that the white gaze was not
dominant in any of my books,’ Morrison says in the film.
Greenfield-Sanders admits having been very conscious of his
FILM own white, male gaze when he worked on the project – and it is

SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS. PHOTOGRAPHS: © TIMOTHY GREENFIELD-SANDERS, 1997 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, FRITZ VON DER SCHULENBURG/THE INTERIOR ARCHIVE, ©AMP
for this reason that he not only weaves in the work of African-
American artists (in particular the stunning opening sequence,

THE LAST WORD an animated collage created by Mickalene Thomas and set to a
score by Kathryn Bostic), but also ensures Morrison herself
A powerful documentary tells the story of speaks directly to the viewer. ‘It’s her voice, her ideas,’ he says.
‘It’s really Toni telling her story.’
the inspiring writer Toni Morrison That story is extraordinarily inspiring, both because of the
wonder and success of her own work, and, as a writer and editor,
By ERICA WAGNER the path she laid for others. Interviewed for the documentary,
Oprah Winfrey calls her ‘a friend to our minds’, whose writing
‘allows you to understand that pain is OK; and that through pain
The Pieces I Am, Timothy Greenfield-Sanders’ remarkable film you can come to love’. The scholar and activist Angela Davis
about the life of Toni Morrison, has been a long time coming. describes the publication of Beloved as ‘an extraordinary turning
The pair met 40 years ago when Greenfield-Sanders, who is point in this history of the United States’, noting that ‘we could
both a photographer and film-maker, was shooting the author never think about slavery in the same way’ after its release.
for a downtown New York paper. ‘We became friends from that This film is a brilliant introduction to one of the 20th cen-
moment on,’ he says, speaking on the phone from his studio, tury’s greatest and most influential writers. Toni Morrison never
a converted rectory on the Lower East Side. He would later wrote a memoir and did not agree to a biography, but The Pieces
photograph her for her book covers, and she was the first person I Am is probably as close as we’re going to get to her. It offers
to sit for ‘The Black List’, his groundbreaking series of portraits a beautiful and important testimony to the power of her work
of prominent African-Americans. and her generosity of spirit.
Morrison, who died in August last year, was once described ‘Toni Morrison: The Pieces I Am’ is released on 6 March.
by The New York Times as ‘the nearest thing America has to
a national novelist’. Born in 1931 in Lorain, Ohio, she worked
as an editor at Random House in Manhattan during the mid-
1960s, publishing the works of African-American writers such
as Angela Davis and Gayl Jones and the boxer Muhammad Ali, Abi Daré

O N E TO
BOOKS AT C HW
bi Daré makes a spar t
A kling l
iterary debu
This coming-of-age novel follows Adunni, a 14-year-old Nigerian girl subject to the whims of
her father and family yet learning to speak for herself. It won the Bath Novel Award 18 months
before publication, and marks the appearance of a strong and stylish new talent. EW
‘The Girl with the Louding Voice’ (£12.99, Hodder & Stoughton) is published on 5 March.

136 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | April 2020 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk


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HOROSCOPES
The future revealed: your essential guide to APRIL By PETER WATSON

ARIES LIBRA
21 March – 20 April 24 September – 23 October
Unexpected developments might unsettle you. But a Jupiter-Pluto If you can sweet-talk a companion or loved one around to your way
alliance should help you look ahead and see ways you can capitalise of thinking, a venture or journey should live up to expectations.
on adjustments made by others. Don’t be afraid of being perceived It is important to acknowledge, however, that at times you might
as opportunistic. You’re merely making the most of a set-up be unusually daring. Don’t become heavy-handed about what you
created by those who haven’t yet realised quite how clever you are. want – offer reassurance and understanding, rather than judgement.
LUCKY DAY 17th – a boost to your confidence turns fantasy into reality. LUCKY DAY 25th – curbing an extravagant mood brings unlikely benefits.

TAURUS SCORPIO
21 April – 21 May 24 October – 22 November
You’ve been discouraged from breaking into unfamiliar territory, Someone springing a surprise on you mustn’t disrupt your private
either through your own fears or someone else’s negativity. or family life. Though Mars is picking a fight with Uranus early in
However, you’re about to become far more gung-ho when it comes April, there’s no need to defend yourself heavily against any new
to trying different things. Just make sure your new-found confidence ideas likely to affect you. It’s better to prove how adaptable you can
doesn’t make one particular individual want to run a mile. be when you’re suddenly put to the test.
LUCKY DAY 4th – being proactive in certain areas enhances your image. LUCKY DAY 11th – changes to your routine are a blessing, not a curse.

GEMINI SAGITTARIUS
22 May – 21 June 23 November – 21 December
Joint financial, business or property matters could take a turn Sometimes it’s hard to decide how generous you should be to loved
for the better. Even so, you must resist the temptation to involve ones. And your fear of being perceived as mean and miserly mustn’t
yourself in a deal that sounds too good to be true – it probably force you to go to extremes. Weigh up what’s appropriate and
is. Your challenge will be to determine whose advice to take affordable, and act accordingly. Also, catch up on correspondence
and which situations should be given a wide berth. that seems mundane but is about to become vitally important.
LUCKY DAY 24th – reflecting on a tricky scenario presents fresh options. LUCKY DAY 3rd – meaning ful discussions solve long, ongoing problems.

CANCER CAPRICORN
22 June – 23 July 22 December – 20 January
Fundamental changes within a close relationship can be pursued, Be ready to mastermind everyday work or projects left unfinished
provided you and the other person involved want similar outcomes. by those who should know better. But don’t sacrifice romantic,
You’re entering a phase during which you’ll have a keen sense of creative or exotic plans you’ve had in mind for some time. Let the
the value of the moves being debated. But you must resist the urge to Sun’s tussle with Pluto and Jupiter bring out the part of you that
disregard any other viewpoints being put forward. Remain flexible. knows how to work hard, but play even harder.
LUCKY DAY 8th – by maintaining standards, you impress those who count. LUCKY DAY 26th – chance encounters lead to romance or adventure.

LEO AQUARIUS
24 July – 23 August 21 January – 19 February
Initially, it may be hard to see how colleagues or family members As you disclose sensitive information to somebody close, you might
shifting their power base might affect you. You’ll gradually realise, wonder whether you’re in danger of spreading gossip. But surely,
though, that potent Pluto moving backwards from 25 April is deep down, you know how trustworthy this person really is. If
encouraging you to take better care of yourself and be less beholden not, keep quiet. You’ll also need to reflect on whether or not
to somebody who sometimes takes advantage of your good nature. something important is missing from the relationship in question.
LUCKY DAY 23rd – heeding one of life’s major lessons pays off. LUCKY DAY 1st – moving on from a chaotic situation lifts your heart.

VIRGO PISCES
24 August – 23 September 20 February – 20 March
At last you’re about to be recognised for skills you possess in a Invitations or suggestions from a small group of people will, at first,
particular area. But avoid giving the impression that you feel you’re persuade you to join in with whatever they are doing. But you may
streets ahead of everybody else. Certain individuals close by will soon begin to wonder whether their plans really suit you. Unless
find it hard to co-operate with you if it seems you’re looking down you’re entirely comfortable with whatever they are offering, you
on them. Humility could be the answer. should make a decisive but polite exit from proceedings.
LUCKY DAY 18th – opening your mind to new possibilities wins you fans. LUCKY DAY 27th – proving what you do best earns you huge respect.

For weekly updates, visit www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/culture/horoscopes.

138 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | April 2020 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk


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THE SPRING ISSUE


PHOTO GR A PH: RICH A RD PHIBB S

ON SALE NOW
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A SPRING GLOW
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After months of short days, cold nights and a battle against the
elements, there are few better moments than when the frost
finally begins to thaw and you can feel the warmth of the sun on
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R IL 202
AP

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Photographs by RICHARD PHIBBS


Styled by LEITH CLARK

And the
Following dazzling turns in
Black Mirror and The Morning Show,
Gugu Mbatha-Raw is taking the crown
playing the first black Miss World. She
tells Lydia Slater about fighting for
feminism, embracing her heritage
and the secret of happiness
in Hollywood
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THIS PAGE: Gugu Mbatha-Raw


wears sequin embroidered
dress, £7,040, Gucci.
OPPOSITE: dress as before.
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laminated leather top with
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Distractingly beautiful herself, and appearing far younger than


her 36 years, Gugu has an unselfconscious freshness that could not
be further from a beauty queen’s manicured perfection. She has
come to our lunch straight from a yoga class and arrives dressed
down in a monochrome ensemble of jeans, a scarf and an embel-
lished rollneck from Sézane. ‘This is as jazzy as I normally get,’
she confesses. ‘My wardrobe is mostly black because I dress up for
a living, and it makes me feel calm and neutral.’
The waiter, who can clearly recognise star quality when he
sees it, rushes up with a menu, and she studies it with frank delight,
eventually settling on potato ravioli and sea-bass with champagne
sauce, and diving for the bread basket. ‘Ooh! It’s warm!’ she exclaims,

O
then complains vociferously about the
inadequate dinner served at a celebrity
event we both attended recently.
pening the 1970 Miss World contest, the presenter In short, Gugu is one of those rare
people to whom it is easy to warm
Bob Hope was in particularly ebullient mood. immediately. Perhaps this attribute is
why she doesn’t shy away from less
‘I’m very, very happy to be here at this cattle market…’ sympathetic roles; on the contrary,
she appears to revel in them. ‘You can’t
always be the goodie everyone’s root-
he leered to the tittering audience. ‘Moooooo!’ ing for,’ she says, laughing.
His enjoyment was short-lived; moments later, the clatter of a Her nuanced performance as Hannah Shoenfeld in the acclaimed
football rattle resounded around the Royal Albert Hall, and the Apple TV+ drama The Morning Show was one such example. Starring
stage was invaded by outraged women protesters, hurling flour and alongside Jennifer Aniston and Reese Witherspoon, she portrayed
stink bombs. They forced the obnoxious Hope to flee from the set a talent booker for a television show who comes across as chilly
and disrupted the BBC’s broadcast in what has come to be seen as and judgemental. It is only towards the end of the series that we
a watershed moment for feminism. witness in flashback the sexual assault by a senior colleague that
‘I watched the whole ceremony and it’s shocking, particularly the has traumatised her for years.
bit where the women all have to turn round to show their bottoms…’ This is a scene of surpassing discomfort, made worse by the fact
says Gugu Mbatha-Raw, over lunch at a smart Marylebone restau- that her violator, brilliantly played by Steve Carell, believes her
rant. ‘It definitely makes you realise quite how far we’ve come.’ silence means she is a willing participant. ‘We all think, “Just say no!”
This particular Miss World contest is the subject of Gugu’s But actually there is another instinct, which is to freeze, and that’s
thought-provoking new drama, Misbehaviour. She takes the role of so primal. Obviously, it’s an abuse of power, but I think how Hannah
Jennifer Hosten, who, as Miss Grenada, became the first black responds to it is very real.’
woman to win the Miss World crown. ‘I came to [the part] with an Gugu is generous in her praise for her co-star Carell. ‘He’s
air of judgement, of, oh, you know, beauty queens,’ she admits, ‘but so well-loved, but he has a dark side to his range,’ she says. ‘I don’t
I’ve become more open-minded as to what that represents. I think know if any other actor would have been brave enough to do it,
it’s very easy now to look back and say, “Why would you do that? It’s or they might have made it more two-dimensional or villainous or
so superficial.” What’s interesting is that rebellion can often be a predatory. Ooh! It gets deep, it gets dark, it gets murky! It’s a
luxury.’ For her research into the film, Gugu visited Grenada to talk modern morality tale: you sell your soul, what’s the cost and who’s
to Hosten. ‘She’s in her seventies now, and she’s got such a regal to blame?’ Indeed: Hannah later accepts a promotion in exchange
presence, such posture, these bright, bright eyes – she’s very demure, for withdrawing her complaint. ‘What I love about the script is
quite proper but very centred. that you get to see the grey area,’ Gugu says. ‘It’s not saying: this
‘It was amazing to meet her and find out about a moment in her person’s a saint, this person’s a victim, this person’s a predator,
life all that time ago that really informed all her opportunities and it’s saying that we are all culpable.’
choices. She felt like she was an ambassador for her country,
and she was breaking boundaries in her own way.’ Hosten went on
to be appointed Grenada’s High Commissioner to Canada. Mean-
while, just a few days before we meet, the Miss World title is awarded
to Toni-Ann Singh of Jamaica, meaning that in 2019, for the first
time ever, all major beauty titles have been won by black women.
‘Optics are so powerful: who gets to be celebrated?’ says Gugu.

RICHARD PHIBBS
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THIS PAGE: silk dress, about £1,585, Giambattista Valli. OPPOSITE: cloqué dress, £1,565, Emilia Wickstead. White and yellow gold and
diamond earrings, £8,200, Jessica McCormack. White gold and diamond ring, from a selection, Van Cleef & Arpels
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RICHARD PHIBBS
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Poplin dress, about £1,350, Givenchy


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She shows me a message sent to her on Instagram by a victim of


a sexual assault, who writes that Gugu’s performance had changed
her own perspective on the experience. ‘Thank you for bringing this
story to life and helping our society understand… how varied
women’s experiences with rape and assault can be. You’ve helped me
immensely in my healing process.’ Gugu looks thoughtful as she
puts her phone away. ‘It’s exciting for me to realise that the work can ‘It’s so funny, isn’t it, that your parents are just mum and dad. You
create conversations and help people to look at things differently. don’t think of them as real people till much later,’ says Gugu. ‘Our
Obviously, it’s just TV, it’s not therapy, but I think it could spark a shift dinner-table conversations were often about South Africa, but I was
in someone… I hope Harvey Weinstein is watching The Morning too young to understand it. It would be more: “Groan! Why is Daddy
Show,’ she concludes. A vocal supporter of the Time’s Up campaign talking about politics again?” I just didn’t get it. But it probably has
since its launch, she has never experienced any inappropriate behav- given me a more questioning mind and a more global perspective.
iour herself, but knows many who have. ‘Even since that episode, I’m always looking for the complexities, I’m not satisfied with the
friends I’ve had for a long, long time have been reframing an experi- conventional version of a story.’
ence they had in the light of it,’ she says. A keen performer from childhood, she won a place at Rada aged
I suggest to her that a lot of her films have a campaigning edge. 17, and started her career in television with roles in Spooks and Doctor
For one thing, she seems to make a habit of working with female Who. It was starring in Belle and Beyond the Lights that inspired her to
directors, despite their being a minority in visit South Africa for the first time, at the
the industry. And rarely does she take a age of 30. ‘I thought, I’ve done two films
role without a message. Last year’s Mother- that in different ways deal with identity,
less Brooklyn saw her play a lawyer and
community activist working to prevent
‘You do have and often I feel the stories that gravitate
towards you are the ones you need to heal
Harlem slum clearances. In her first major
film, Belle, directed by Amma Asante, she
dark nights of within yourself,’ she says. ‘So I visited
family in Pretoria and Johannesburg and
portrayed the illegitimate daughter of a
British admiral who attempts to combat
the soul, when Soweto, and because it was my first time,
everyone rallied and met up with me.
the slave trade. Beyond the Lights tackled
misogyny in the music industry, and the
you think, They jokingly called me “the Unifier”
because some of my cousins hadn’t seen
Emmy award-winning Black Mirror epi-
sode ‘San Junipero’ drew critical praise for
“Why am I each other for years.’
Being mixed-race, she says, ‘there is
its positive portrayal of a lesbian relation-
ship. ‘Oh no!’ says Gugu, a little dismayed
doing this?”’ always a complexity about identity that
you bring. It’s not a riddle that needs to be
by this analysis. ‘I hope they don’t feel solved, it’s a duality that’s part of your
overly worthy… With “San Junipero”, that nature. It’s interesting as an actor because
script pinged off the page. The twist of it was nothing to do with you’re always taking on different identities.’
being gay or bisexual, I just loved the characters. I didn’t really antici- All the same, though she is now based in Los Angeles, she
pate the impact it would have.’ remains intensely British at heart. She talks wistfully of the national
Nevertheless, she agrees that she needs more than just a pay sense of humour and ‘grounded realism, which is good for the soul’,
cheque to inspire her to accept a role. ‘There are many things I could and has a daily relaxation ritual involving lying in a bathful of Epsom
have done with my life,’ she says. ‘You do have these dark nights of salts, sipping tea and listening to a soundtrack of thunderstorms.
the soul, when you think, “Why am I doing this?” And it really helps ‘I miss the rain so much in LA,’ she confesses. ‘I’m rock ’n’ roll, me!’
if there’s a bigger reason. Otherwise, I think you would get very Later this year, she will star opposite Gemma Arterton in the
jaded, very quickly, with the long hours and the intensity of it all.’ period drama Summerland, and she has just been cast alongside
Campaigning may be in her genes. Her father Patrick Mbatha Tom Hiddleston in the Marvel Studios project Loki. There is also
is South African and grew up under apartheid. As a student, he talk of a biopic about Mary Seacole, the pioneering Jamaican nurse
joined the ANC, and later, fearing imprisonment on Robben Island, and businesswoman. ‘For me, success is freedom and being stimu-
fled the country, assisted by the UNHCR, with which Gugu now lated and staying curious. I want to be proud of my work, and to feel
works as an ambassador. (‘My cousins would say it’s an ancestral it’s doing something to help the culture evolve, but also, I want to
call,’ she says.) He ended up working as a doctor in Oxford, where keep myself interested.’ So she eschews contracts that would tie
he met Anne Raw, a nurse. They named their daughter ‘Gugulethu’, her into multiple films before she’s read a script, and doesn’t even
meaning ‘our pride’ in Zulu. dream of an Academy Award. ‘You can’t have that as your end game,
because what are you going to do the day after the Oscars?’ she
points out reasonably.
The Americans must find her a real enigma, I say, as she gathers
up her coat and prepares to head back out onto the chilly London
streets. ‘Good!’ she declares. ‘I hope it stays that way!’
‘Misbehaviour’ is released in cinemas on 13 March.

RICHARD PHIBBS
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Tweed jacket, £7,435;


cotton top, £1,385; tweed
shorts, £2,535, all Chanel

RICHARD PHIBBS
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See Stockists for details. Hair by


Daniel Martin at Bryant Artists,
using Evo. Make-up by Kay
Montano. Manicure by Ami
Streets, using Dior Vernis and
Miss Dior Hand Cream. Set
design by Trish Stephenson at
Patricia McMahon. Stylist’s
assistants: Sophie Chapman,
Crystalle Cox and Lea Hustin.
Shot at Spring Studios, London

Toile and velvet dress, £1,660, Prada.


Gold earrings, £4,150, Van Cleef & Arpels
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SIREN SONG
A captivating melody of liquid gold, shimmering
silver and burnished bronze echoes across the
glistening waters of Durdle Door beach in Dorset
Photographs by ERIK MADIGAN HECK

Styled by LEITH CLARK

DURDLE DOOR ON THE LULWORTH ESTATE, DORSET (WWW.LULWORTH.COM)

Crepe dress, £14,080; leather belt, £700,


both Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello.
Rose gold ring, £2,170, Pomellato
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THIS PAGE: sequin


and organza top, £900;
organza trousers, £540, both
Emporio Armani. Tulle
leggings, £2,380, Gucci.
Leather flats, from a
selection, Camilla Elphick.
Rose gold ring, £2,170,
Pomellato. OPPOSITE: silk
chiffon dress, £1,795, Etro

ERIK MADIGAN HECK


DURDLE DOOR BEACH ON THE LULWORTH ESTATE, DORSET (WWW.LULWORTH.COM)
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Nappa jacket, £2,225; matching


skirt, £1,205, both Prada. Leather flats, from
a selection, Camilla Elphick. Brass rings,
from £300, Dior

THE LULWORTH ESTATE, DORSET (WWW.LULWORTH.COM)

ERIK MADIGAN HECK


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DURDLE DOOR BEACH ON THE LULWORTH ESTATE, DORSET (WWW.LULWORTH.COM)

THIS PAGE: lamé dress, about


£365, Batsheva. OPPOSITE:
embellished dress, £3,700,
Bottega Veneta. Brass rings,
from £300, Dior

ERIK MADIGAN HECK


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DURDLE DOOR ON THE LULWORTH ESTATE, DORSET (WWW.LULWORTH.COM)

Crystal and tulle top, £2,380;


matching trousers, £2,380;
leather belt, from a selection,
all Gucci. Glitter-embellished
flats, £535, Tabitha Simmons.
Rose gold rings, from
£1,720, Pomellato

ERIK MADIGAN HECK


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THIS PAGE: organza dress,


from a selection; antique
gold earrings, £540, both
Alexander McQueen. Leather
flats, from a selection, Camilla
Elphick. Rose gold rings, from
£1,720, Pomellato. OPPOSITE:
crepe and crystal dress,
£3,500, Michael Kors
Collection. Rings, as before
DURDLE DOOR BEACH ON THE LULWORTH ESTATE, DORSET (WWW.LULWORTH.COM)

ERIK MADIGAN HECK


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MAN O’WAR BEACH ON THE LULWORTH ESTATE, DORSET (WWW.LULWORTH.COM)

Lamé dress, from a selection,


JW Anderson. Glitter-embellished flats,
£535, Tabitha Simmons. Rose gold
ring, £2,170, Pomellato

ERIK MADIGAN HECK


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THE LULWORTH ESTATE, DORSET (WWW.LULWORTH.COM)

THIS PAGE: raffia dress, £8,500; brass


rings, from £300, all Dior. OPPOSITE:
tweed jacket, from a selection, Chanel.
See Stockists for details. Hair by Seb
Bascle at Calliste Agency. Make-up by
Andrew Gallimore at CLM Hair &
Make-up, using Dior Backstage
Collection and Capture Totale CELL
Energy Collection. Stylist’s assistant:
Tilly Wheating. Production by Lucy
Watson Productions. Shot on location
at Durdle Door beach on the Lulworth
Estate, Dorset (www.lulworth.com).
Model: Greta Valeria at
Next Model Management

ERIK MADIGAN HECK


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CONTR AST
& CONQUER
Modern monochrome meets classical grandeur
in a triumphant procession of sharp silhouettes
and contemporary tailoring

Photographs by REGAN CAMERON


Styled by MIRANDA ALMOND
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Silk crepe top; embroidered


wool jacket; gabardine culottes; silk
georgette scarf; calf-skin boots,
all from a selection, Celine
by Hedi Slimane
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THIS PAGE: satin and


feather dress, £2,990;
leather shirt, £2,690, both
Ermanno Scervino. Mesh
heels, £545, Dolce &
Gabbana. OPPOSITE:
sequin and feather jacket,
from a selection; satin
shorts, £2,340; leather bag,
£2,230; lamb-skin, glass
and strass belt ( just seen),
£1,215; metal and strass
cuff, £1,155, all Chanel

REGAN CAMERON
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THIS PAGE: embellished


dress; matching trousers;
poplin shirt; raffia apron;
beaded satin shoes, all from
a selection; net tutu, £695;
metal and crystal earrings,
£495; ankle socks, £25, all
Simone Rocha. OPPOSITE:
silk dress, £3,350; brass
brooch, from a selection,
both Louis Vuitton

REGAN CAMERON
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THIS PAGE: leather and lace


dress, £7,990; leather belt,
£420; leather boots, £750;
antique gold necklace,
£590; matching earrings,
£540; matching bracelet,
£490, all Alexander McQueen.
OPPOSITE: crepe dress;
crepe jersey leggings; leather
heels; silver and brass earrings,
all from a selection, Balenciaga

REGAN CAMERON
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THIS PAGE: embellished


lace dress, £8,622, Givenchy.
Suede heels, £935, Manolo
Blahnik. OPPOSITE: cotton
and faille dress, £1,330;
matching trousers, £700; silk
shirt, £1,150; leather belt,
from a selection; leather
boots, £970, all Gucci

REGAN CAMERON
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THIS PAGE: silk top; crepe


jacket; matching culottes, all
from a selection, Chloé. Leather
and feather heels, £630,
Valentino Garavani.
OPPOSITE: cotton dress, from
a selection; mohair cardigan,
£665, both Miu Miu

REGAN CAMERON
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THIS PAGE: embroidered


cotton dress, £9,900; satin
and mesh corset dress
(worn underneath), £990;
leather sandals, £570; metal
and sequin earrings, £350,
all Burberry. OPPOSITE:
mohair and cotton jacket,
£1,530; mohair skirt, £790;
shell and pearl earrings;
matching necklace, both
from a selection, all Prada

REGAN CAMERON
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THIS PAGE: velvet jacket, £1,930;


cotton shirt, £520; cotton shorts,
£610; leather boots, from a selection;
silver and crystal earring (sold singly),
£145, all Saint Laurent by Anthony
Vaccarello. OPPOSITE: silk and
feather dress, £5,100, Valentino.
Leather and feather sandals ( just
seen), £630; metal earring (sold
singly), £595, both Valentino
Garavani. See Stockists for details.
Hair by Perrine Rougemont at Caren,
using Sebastian. Make-up by Anita
Keeling at One Represents, using
Nars. Manicure by Ami Streets,
using Chanel Le Vernis in Particulière
and Le Lift La Crème Main. Stylist’s
assistant: Holly Gorst. Production by
Shiny Projects. Shot on location at
Chiswick House and Gardens. Model:
Romy Schonberger at Viva London

REGAN CAMERON
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FIELD OF
DREAMS
Atop stony plinths and framed by woody vines, we create a natural gallery
of cotton, raffia and silk set within vast verdant pastures

Photographs by AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA

Styled by CHARLIE HARRINGTON

Taffeta dress, from a selection, Roksanda.


Leather loafers, from a selection,
Roksanda x Malone Souliers
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THIS PAGE: beaded linen dress,


£2,225, Prada. OPPOSITE: poplin
dress, £1,295, Chloé

AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA
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Leather bustier top, £4,300; raffia skirt,


£5,450, both Dolce & Gabbana

AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA
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Silk top, £890; matching shorts, £750;


wool coat, £12,900, all Valentino. Leather
sandals, £595, Valentino Garavani

AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA
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THIS PAGE: cotton


trench-coat, £3,850; broderie
anglaise skirt, £2,190,
both Erdem. OPPOSITE:
embroidered silk dress,
about £2,440, Givenchy

AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA
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Silk knit dress, £2,275; leather heels,


£1,225, both Bottega Veneta
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AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA
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THIS PAGE: silk dress, £2,845,


Miu Miu. OPPOSITE: crochet
dress, £6,100; straw hat, £640,
both Celine by Hedi Slimane

AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA
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Organza dress, £1,495; raffia and beaded headband ( just


seen), £345; beaded heels, £895; raffia garland (worn
across the body); organza bra; matching shorts; cotton
and crystal socks, all from a selection, Simone Rocha

AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA
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THIS PAGE: silk


dress, £3,850; brass
brooch, from a selection,
both Louis Vuitton.
OPPOSITE: cotton
dress, from a selection,
Stella McCartney

AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA
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Silk dress, from a selection; silk bra,


£940; matching knickers, £910; jute
belt, £760; raffia hat, £1,150, all Dior.
See Stockists for details. Hair by
Declan Sheils at Premier Hair and
Make-Up, using Aveda. Make-up
by Polly Osmond at Premier
Hair and Make-Up, using Sisley
Skincare and Makeup. Manicure
by Sabrina Gayle at the Wall Group,
using Chanel La Base Protective
and Smoothing and La Crème Main.
Stylist’s assistant: Georgia Medley.
Set design by Gillian O’Brien
at Lalaland Artists. Production
by Shiny Projects. Model:
Annely Bouma at Viva London

AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA
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MISTRESS OF
TALES & REVELS
As the final instalment of Hilary Mantel’s illustrious Tudor
trilogy is published, she grants Erica Wagner a rare audience at Hampton
Court Palace to discuss royal politics past and present, and why she’s
not quite finished with Thomas Cromwell

Photographs by RICHARD PHIBBS


Styled by ROSIE ARKELL-PALMER
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Hilary Mantel on the King’s


Staircase of Hampton Court
Palace, wearing silk faille opera
coat-dress, from a selection,
Ong-Oaj Pairam. All jewellery
throughout, her own
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At Anne Boleyn’s Gatehouse,


wearing silk organza cloak
painted with Queen Elizabeth I’s
1588 Tilbury speech, £4,500,
Nabil Nayal

RICHARD PHIBBS
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Cromwell’s ruthless practicality: no mere beheading is going to


put him off his food. The story powers through its 900-page length
with an intense flair for drama: the reader is an eavesdropper,
privileged to stand by Cromwell’s shoulder as he converses with the
King, with his Queens, with statesmen and prelates. Mantel charts
her character’s rise through subtle references to his changing status

I
and shifting self-perception: he is plain Thomas when recalling
his childhood; he may be Lord Cromwell or Master Secretary,
depending on his circumstance.
Of course, when we embark on this final novel, we know how it
must end: with Cromwell’s death. That’s no spoiler: it’s historical
fact. After Anne’s execution, Henry married Jane Seymour, who
t’s a grey, wintry day at Hampton Court, Henry VIII’s died after giving birth to their son, Edward. Cromwell helped
great palace on the banks of the Thames. In a wood- arrange his next marriage, to Anne of Cleves; but Henry’s new bride
panelled chamber – the Albemarle Suite – with a view was not to his liking, and Cromwell’s fate was sealed. He was exe-
of the gardens stretching out beyond the windows, we all feel as if cuted on 28 July 1540.
we could do with a fire. ‘Put a jumper on,’ Dame Hilary Mantel tells Recounting the death of Cromwell, her colleague and compan-
her husband Gerald, settled at the far end of the room. Gerald, ion, must have been a challenge, I venture. Mantel, as ever, balances
however, isn’t cold. ‘You’re not now,’ Mantel says, ‘but you will be.’ pragmatism with strong feeling. She had, after all, always known the
SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS. HAIR AND MAKE-UP BY AMY BRANDON, USING MARIA NILA AND BY TERRY. PHOTOGRAPHED AT HAMPTON COURT PALACE (WWW.HRP.ORG.UK)

Hilary Mantel thinks ahead. She knew that if she was going to outcome of her tale, and in fact had her first try at telling the story
write a novel about life in the court of Henry VIII, it would have of her protagonist’s demise not long after writing the first pages of
to be published in 2009, the 500th anniversary of his accession to the Wolf Hall. ‘Actually, it’s really embarrassing, this, but when it came
throne. And so she did: Wolf Hall went on to be a global bestseller, as into my head how it must go, I was in Sainsbury’s at the checkout,’
did Bring Up the Bodies, the second volume of what is now, trium- she recalls. ‘My hands were packing and tears were falling really,
phantly, a trilogy. Both were awarded the Man Booker Prize, and really fast onto my hands. And by the time I got into the carpark, I’d
Mantel became the first woman and the first British author to win done it. It was emotionally processed.’ What came after that, she
twice. Yes, dozens of books have been set in the Tudor period; but says, was a question of style. And what style! For the reader, knowing
Mantel’s genius lay in her ability to latch onto a hitherto unexploited what is in store for Cromwell makes Mantel’s magnificent, mov-
angle of an oft-told tale, taking as her vantage point Thomas Crom- ing denouement no less powerful; perhaps, indeed, much more so.
well, a man born a commoner who rose to be the King’s fixer-in-chief. In our conversation, Mantel uses the term ‘rehearsal’ more than
Drawing faithfully on historical record, she built a protagonist both once to describe her process for writing a scene – which might sound
implacable and sympathetic, calculating yet always human. The surprising until you recall how closely she was involved in the Royal
two books propelled her from literary respectability to international Shakespeare Company’s theatrical adaptation of the first two books,
fame: Gerald, trained as a geologist – and therefore someone who advising on Mike Poulton’s excellent script. (There was, of course,
also knows a bit about deep time – now manages Mantel, Inc. ‘The a much-praised BBC television series too, with Mark Rylance as
publication of this book,’ he says to me quietly as we walk through Cromwell and Damian Lewis as Henry VIII.) The plays premiered
the palace corridors, ‘isn’t like the publication of any of the others.’ at the Swan in Stratford-upon-Avon in 2014 and then enjoyed
Nor like that of almost any other book: how many novels get teaser Broadway success: the influential New York Times theatre critic Ben
adverts on billboards in Leicester Square? Readers – and bookshops Brantley noted that even after a third viewing – nearly six hours of
– have been waiting for this moment for eight years. James Daunt, live theatre – ‘I found myself just as much in its thrall, and even more
the CEO of Waterstones, has called its release ‘the most significant admiring of its accomplishment’.
publishing event of my 30-year bookselling career’. But Mantel’s most enduring bond was forged with Ben Miles,
A proof copy of that long-awaited novel, The Mirror & the Light, who brought to the role of Cromwell both brutal charm and his own
now sits on the table between us. Mantel speaks of Cromwell in the deep research. An idea he had on stage for a scene of a violent
same vivid present tense that drives the books, calling him her ‘col- encounter in Cromwell’s youth even inspired a passage in Mantel’s
league’. Working with Cromwell is, she says, ‘very much like being third book. Their partnership has continued into the present day;
in the rehearsal-room with an actor, I think. I always have the feeling she is now working on a play of this final volume directly with Miles;
of him questioning and working against the grain. He constantly there is also to be a book of images, produced with his brother
gives you something to push back against, because just when you George, a photographer, using Mantel’s text alongside pictures of
think you’ve grasped the historical reality of a certain situation, then locations associated with Cromwell as they appear in present-day
you realise you probably haven’t.’ England. All this has given The Mirror & the Light an almost colla-
The Mirror & the Light begins just where Bring Up the Bodies ended borative air. ‘It feels as if the process that’s led to this book is an
– with the execution of Henry’s second wife, Anne Boleyn: ‘Once expanded one, because the plays, the photographs, different things,
the queen’s head is severed, he walks away. A sharp pang of appetite have fed into the way I work,’ says Mantel.
reminds him that it is time for a second breakfast, or perhaps an Talking to her, you have the sense of someone who always knew
early dinner.’ In two simple sentences, we are dropped into the high that there was a destiny in store for her. She first came here, to
and terrible drama of this extraordinary story and reminded of Hampton Court, when she was CONTINUED ON PAGE 234
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BEAUTY

Edited by KATY YOUNG

Glowing The British


model Jean

with pride
Campbell
PHOTOGRAPH: IMAXTREE

We celebrate the exceptional beauty


labels from our island nation. Plus: the secrets
of going grey with élan; and Hermès’ new
foray into make-up
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L A R A M U LLE N
Relaxing
Salt Scrub,
£38 Espa

National
K U K UA WI LLIA M S

treasures
As Britain separates from the EU,
Siân Ranscombe takes stock of the UK
beauty industry and honours our thriving
Cheek to Chic
home-grown brands in Love Is the
Drug, £30
Charlotte
Tilbury

I t’s fair to say that Britain’s departure from the EU has left
many unresolved questions for businesses, and beauty
brands are no exception. While the industry is working
hard to ensure that bestselling products from international cosmetic
labels remain available in the UK, our home-grown companies can
expect a strong year ahead, as buying British increasingly becomes
the most cost-effective – as well as the most sustainable – choice.
‘We have a rich history in brand development,’ says Millie
Kendall, the CEO and co-founder of the British Beauty Council.
‘Look at our leading entrepreneurs, such as Charlotte Tilbury and
Pat McGrath, or our amazing hairdressers – John Frieda, Sam
McKnight, Josh Wood. We have the credentials and our products
have fantastic shelf appeal. We’re less likely to market something
with vacuous buzzwords, which resonates with the consumer.’
The British skincare offering in particular has come on leaps and
bounds in the past year. In 2019, the London-based GP and skin

Colognes, £50
for 30ml;
Lavender &
Musk Pillow
FR A N S U M M E R S

Spray, £25, all


Jo Malone
London

214 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | April 2020


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BEAUTY BAZAAR

Modern
Hairspray, £22
Mutiny Lip Hair by Sam
Balm, £19 McKnight
Medik8

specialist Dr Anita Sturnham launched Decree, an uncomplicated


but effective range of 10 products including the Treat Tincture Daily
PM Serum, which has sold out twice since its release in Harvey
Nichols and on Cult Beauty. Dr Sam Bunting has expanded her
Flawless line from a single cleanser to a six-strong collection, and the
clinical brand Medik8, which has its headquarters in Hertfordshire,
is leading the way in demystifying skincare with its simple CSA

FR A N S U M M E R S
philosophy – a belief that the key to better skin is a routine including
vitamin C, SPF and vitamin A. The UK is also home to a number of
world-class facialists, including Nichola Joss, Vaishaly Patel and the
Duchess of Sussex’s favourite practitioner, Sarah Chapman.
British brands have always excelled in aromatherapy and, fit-

N O R A AT TA L
tingly, given the political climate, many of this year’s new releases
are geared towards boosting the mood. The acupuncturist and
holistic facialist Annee de Mamiel, who is known for her seasonal
oil blends, has just launched Altitude Bath Soak, stress-relieving,
skin-nourishing salts produced using the
same essence found in her cult Altitude Oil.
Elsewhere, Espa, which produces its ranges
in Somerset, is unveiling its Positivity Fittingly, given the
Blend, a ‘portable pick-me-up’ to be used as
a pulse-point oil or in the bath after a partic- political climate,
ularly troubled day, while This Works’ new
Love Sleep range is designed to aid both
many of this year’s Altitude Bath
Soak, £42
rest and intimacy in the bedroom. Finally, new releases are de Mamiel

on the fragrance front, Jo Malone London


– British in origin, though now under the geared towards
ownership of Estée Lauder – will this month
roll out Lavenderland, a limited-edition set
boosting the mood
Forest
of perfumes and a pillow mist inspired by Therapy Bath
& Shower
the freshness of English lavender. Oil, £49
PHOTOGRAPHS: MOLLY SJ LOWE, IMAXTREE, SCHOHAJA, JASON LLOYD-EVANS, LUCKY IF SHARP

Of course, none of this means we will suddenly have to abjure old Aromatherapy
Associates
favourites from beyond our own shores. Harvey Nichols’ director of
beauty and concessions Jo Osborne is confident that, as a luxury
retailer with strong global relationships, the department store will
continue sourcing the cosmetics we love. ‘Brands have been working BlitzTrance
FR A N S U M M E R S

on various solutions to tackle Brexit-related issues for some time Lipstick in


Skin Flixx, £35
and our suppliers have plans in place for importing to the UK,’ she Pat McGrath
says. ‘We want to ensure our customers’ demands are being met, Labs
regardless of borders.’ Nor should we suddenly expect an influx of
unregulated products from international markets, as Dr Emma
Meredith, the director-general of the Cosmetic, Toiletry and
Perfumery Association, explains. ‘The proposed UK cosmetics law,
prepared in anticipation of our leaving the EU without a deal, is
closely aligned to the EU framework, which has been in place for
over 40 years,’ she says. ‘It will also mirror the current banned and
restricted ingredients lists, and the bans on animal testing.’
Consistency therefore remains a watchword for the cosmetics
industry as we move into an era of political uncertainty, with quality
and ethics staying at the heart of our most cherished brands,
whether they originate from Britain or further afield. It seems that Treat Tincture Daily
in tumultuous times, solace can always be found in beauty. PM Serum, £130 Decree

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AMAZING
GREYS
As women increasingly tire of the maintenance involved in
disguising their naturally changing hair colour, Katy Young investigates
the elegant way to embrace silvering locks
PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL ZAK
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BEAUTY BAZAAR

W
through tubs of conditioners and masks that I sleep in, and I’ve had
a weekly blow-dry in my local salon for four years now. When I’m
travelling for work, I schedule hairdresser appointments around
hy is it that however many new grey the shows, and always go for a blow-dry when I arrive in New York.’
hairs sprout from our hairlines, we never Indeed, going grey requires a total rethink of our bathroom shelf.
seem to be any the wiser about how to As hair loses its melanin granules, it can begin to change shape and
manage them? As a beauty editor I, possibly more than most, can become deprived of its elastic properties. ‘It’s a myth that greys are
adopt some level of agency over how my skin ages, choosing whether more coarse – in fact, they are finer, though the texture does shift.
to leave it to Mother Nature or the latest doctor on Harley Street. Simultaneously, production from oil glands on the scalp slows,
But when it comes to going grey, I will admit to a touch of confusion. leading to a drier feel,’ explains Dr Joseph Cincotta of Federici
In my early forties and confronted with my first silver streaks, Brands. Dry locks, being unable to reflect light, can lack shine, so a
knowing that by the age of 50, one in two of us will have half a head greater focus on smoothing and glossing treatments is needed.
of grey hair, I find myself wondering how easy it is for anyone to Cincotta also recommends selecting formulas suited to fragile or
grow older gracefully… even coloured hair, as well as shampoos designed to minimise the
One friend exhausted with the constant maintenance involved in discolouring effects of certain minerals found in tap water.
covering up her roots tells me that she is tempted to go fully grey but Then comes the question of how to maintain a shifting spectrum
can’t quite take the plunge, as her children collapse in tears every of shades – blending your salt-and-pepper roots until your full head of
time she threatens to put down her hair dye. The problem, according hair goes entirely grey (as a blonde, I know all too well that this
to the behavioural psychologist Professor Carolyn Mair, is that ‘we process can take years). Hayward spent over a decade painstakingly
live in a youth-obsessed society where the norm is to eliminate any finger-painting her roots, save for her signature streak – a weekly
sign of ageing. Not taking advantage of the many opportunities to habit she decided to abandon last year, though ‘not before finding a
maintain a youthful appearance is considered to mean not taking wonderful stylist called Marley Xavier at Josh Wood, who finally
care of ourselves’. understood how to manage the grow-out properly,’ she tells me.
These days, however, feeling good in one’s own skin is consid- Xavier, a master colourist usually found backstage at Miu Miu and
ered the real barometer of beauty, which surely means practising Marc Jacobs, calls it his ‘lip glossing’ for hair, weaving in darker
self-acceptance and self-esteem. Perhaps if I could find the confi- strands at the roots, blurring out the tide mark between your new
dence to go grey on my own terms, I might be able to find a happy grey growth and the dye job you want to leave behind.
space between taking a healthy, moral standpoint on ageing and My own colourist, Adam Reed, informs me that making the tran-
looking my best. After all, there’s no shortage of role models: some sition to a full grey look is becoming far more achievable, in part
of the world’s most desirable women, including Salma Hayek, Jamie because of a cultural shift, but also because the big beauty compa-
Lee Curtis and Diane Keaton, have chosen to embrace their greying nies have developed some excellent products to ease the process.
hair. And closer to home, I have my own poster girl in Catherine ‘Colour is so incredible now that it needn’t take weeks or months of
Hayward, the fashion director of Esquire, who has elected to sport growing out your hair, dyed or otherwise,’ he says. ‘I can enhance
a fashionable streak of grey since her early thirties. your natural shade, and just warm up the grey and blend it in so you
‘I just seemed to go with the flow of what my hair wanted to do, don’t see any roots or regrowth. It doesn’t have to be about covering
going lighter at the front and dark at the back,’ Hayward tells me. ‘It up greys – I can create a softness that looks so feminine.’
was like Debbie Harry’s style, and just a little bit rock ’n’ roll. While But no amount of good products or stylists can take the decision
I hated the frizz, I really didn’t mind the whitening. In the past year for us; in Hayward’s words: ‘You have to make the leap your-
or so, I’ve noticed others beginning to feel the same – I’m constantly self.’ Fortunately, thanks to pioneers like herself, society is finally
stopped in the street by women asking me how beginning to accept that a woman with grey hair
I achieved the look.’ er pol can be just as much a silver fox as her male
l v is
The answer, apparently, is through a lot i counterpart. As Professor Mair declares
of trial and error. ‘The challenge with – ‘not being young doesn’t mean we’re
h
S

greying hair is its texture,’ she says. ‘I get not youthful’.


PHOTOGRAPHS: LUCKY IF SHARP

From left: Nutriplenish Multi-Use Hair Oil, £30, Aveda. Smooth Conditioner, £38, Virtue at Space NK. Follicle Boost Hair Density
Serum, £96, Monpure. Barbiere Illuminating Shampoo, £35, Acqua di Parma. Shimmering Silver Conditioner, £6.99, John Frieda.
Serie Expert Silver Shampoo, £12.90, L’Oréal Professionnel. Color Care Whipped Glaze Light, £24, Living Proof

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BEAUTY BAZAAR

MY
MOODBOARD
Hermès Beauté’s creative
director revisits the label’s storied
past for its first lipstick collection

Lovingly preserved in Hermès’ Parisian headquarters


is its extensive leather and silk archive, which reflects
the remarkable history of a brand that has evolved
from a small 19th-century saddlemaker into a global
fashion powerhouse, renowned for designs such as
the Birkin bag. This long heritage underpins its first
foray into make-up: the launch of
the Rouge Hermès lipstick collec-
tion, whose 24 shades – from reds
and pinks to purple and orange – are
inspired by classic pieces from
decades past. All of the lip colours
come presented in refillable, plastic-
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF HERMÈS, GETTY IMAGES

free packaging created by the fashion


designer Pierre Hardy.
‘When I think of make-up, I think
of materials,’ says Jérôme Touron, the
creative director of Hermès Beauté.
‘Here at Hermès, colours travel. They interact and
reflect each other – from silk to leather, enamel to
lacquer… and today, to make-up.’ BECKI MURRAY
Rouge Hermès lipsticks, £58 each (www.hermes.com).

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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

THE FUTURE
OF SKINCARE
How the Japanese brand
Sensai is using avant-garde
Fine Fiber Technology to
elevate modern beauty routines
In the search for enviable skin, Japan very much leads
the way. The country has long blended innovation
with traditional Asian rituals, resulting in products
that have captivated beauty aficionados. With our
love of Japanese skincare showing little sign of
abating in 2020, and our hunger for at-home treat-
ments continuing, a whole host of new tools offers us
the chance both to discover radiant skin and enjoy
a moment of calm in our increasingly hectic lives.
Take the latest innovation from the Japanese
beauty powerhouse Sensai. Harnessing
the power of cutting-edge Fine Fiber
Technology, the brand has created the
Biomimesis Veil Diffuser, a hand-held
The micro-fibre
electronic device that sprays a unique veil maximises
micro-fibre veil onto the face, maxim-
ising skin-hydration levels while you
skin-hydration
sleep. Use it before bed and your skin-
care products will be better absorbed
levels while you
overnight, ensuring that you wake up to sleep, ensuring
the holy grail of ‘mochi-hada’ – silky-
soft ‘rice-cake’ skin.
that you wake up
So, how does it work? The diffuser is
easy to use as part of a two-step night-
to silky-soft skin
time routine. First, smooth Biomimesis
Veil Effector lamellar essence over the entire face; then use the
diffuser to spray Biomimesis Veil Potion onto the cheeks and
the forehead, creating a cocoon-like veil of fibres that locks
in moisture and boosts the skin’s ability to repair overnight.
The veil is made of such finely layered fibres that it’s hardly
perceptible and, eight hours later, is easily removed to reveal
a perfectly plump, hydrated complexion.
The process is founded on proven scientific research, with
laboratory tests showing that usage of the diffuser, combined The Sensai Biomimesis
with Sensai’s skincare products, gives optimum results for Veil starter kit contains
achieving a youthful, vibrant complexion. So this new tool the Biomimesis Veil
has the power to not only revolutionise the global beauty Diffuser, Biomimesis
stage, but also our skincare routines. Veil Potion and
Sensai Biomimesis Veil is exclusively available at Harrods. For more Biomimesis Veil
information, ring 020 7730 1234 or visit www.harrods.com. Effector and costs £745
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Edited by LUCY HALFHEAD

DOMESTIC
BLISS
The most sophisticated retreats on these shores,
from a hedonistic hall in Hampshire and an artistic haven in
PHOTOGRAPH: RICH STAPLETON

the Highlands to a stylish cider press in Somerset

The pool at Thyme


in the Cotswolds
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NO PLACE
LIKE HOME
Exquisite epicurean delights, artful interiors and sweeping
vistas… these are the very best of Britain’s luxury retreats

Thyme T H E C O T S W OL D S
Located on the Southrop Manor estate, Thyme describes
itself as ‘a village within a village’. At its heart is a postcard-
perfect hotel with elegant stone buildings rising from clipped
hedgerows. In the mornings, wander over to the newly refur-
bished Ox Barn restaurant for a breakfast of ricotta and
fresh figs drizzled with honey on homemade sourdough, or
poached eggs heaped onto buttery radicchio. Later in the
day, you can test your own culinary skills at Thyme’s cookery
school, where classes range from making spring garden
salads to mastering English pub classics. The Meadow Spa
champions natural British beauty brands, and you can opt for a relaxing massage or
a facial tailored to your skin’s needs. Venture outside the walls for a picturesque walk
through chocolate-box villages and across fields, and on your return head to the
Swan, Thyme’s 17th-century coaching inn, which serves warming dishes by log
fires long into the night. MEG HONIGMANN
Thyme, from £355 a room a night (www.thyme.co.uk).

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Bibury Farm Barns G L OUC E S T E R SH I R E


Down a quiet country lane, the formidable husband-and-wife team
George and Polly Phillips have breathed new life into a group of
derelict barns near the pretty village of Bibury. The duo enlisted the
help of the interior designer Pippa Paton, who has artfully trans-
formed the buildings into five self-catering rentals, each sleeping six
to 10 people, nodding to their heritage with weathered doors reim-
agined as coffee tables. Kitchens come stocked with a fresh loaf of
bread, butter, milk and local eggs, and there are baskets filled with
board games to while away the afternoons in front of a wood-
burning fire. Add hand-blended 100 Acres body products in the chic
bathrooms and mountains of cosy linens, and all that’s left is to
gather up your nearest and dearest for the ultimate rural retreat.
LUCY HALFHEAD
Bibury Farm Barns, from £350 a night (www.biburyfarm.com).

Beaverbrook S U R R E Y
In its former guise as the 19th-century château-style home of the infamous press baron after
which it is named, Beaverbrook has welcomed a thrilling rollcall of guests including
Winston Churchill and Elizabeth Taylor. Today, the luxury hotel is a firm favourite of the
smart west-London set, who can reach the estate by car in under 50 minutes, and whose little
ones benefit from a gigantic treehouse, cinema and spacious, pet-friendly family suites. A
more grown-up atmosphere descends at night with excellent sushi at the Japanese Grill, and
decadent cocktails in the gold-and-velvet-swathed bar. And then there’s the Coach House
Spa, whose superb therapists will restore your equilibrium for days to come. LH
PHOTOGRAPHS: RICH STAPLETON, MOLLY CARR PHOTOGRAPHY

Beaverbrook, from £385 a room a night (www.beaverbrook.co.uk).


(WWW.MOLLYCARRPHOTOGRAPHY.COM), © JAKE EASTHAM
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Cliveden House BE R K SH I R E
Following a multimillion-pound restoration that culminated in
the opening of a magnificent spa and the hosting of the royal bride-
to-be Meghan Markle on the eve of her wedding, Cliveden House
is at the very top of its game. After a majestic arrival via one of the
most impressive driveways in Britain, you step into the grand
entrance hall, which is adorned with mediaeval tapestries, oil
paintings and gleaming suits of armour. Upstairs, you’ll find
refined yet comfortable bedrooms with four-posters and arm-
chairs, and marble-clad bathrooms with deep roll-top baths. The
service is faultless, whether the team are
mixing you dirty martinis at the bar or
slicing a selection of the finest cheese from
the trolley in the splendid dining-room,
but you’ll be glad to help yourself from the
bacchanalian breakfast buffet and enjoy a
feast looking out over the Parterre and
across the Thames Valley. LH
Cliveden House, from £495 a room a night
(www.clivedenhouse.co.uk).

Dormy House T H E C O T S W OL D S
Perfectly located for guests keen to explore the quaint village of Broadway, Dormy
House is a haven of rest and relaxation, some two hours’ drive from London on the
400-acre Farncombe Estate. Most visitors come to experience the superlative spa,
which offers soothing delights including a candlelit swimming pool lined with
cloud-like loungers, and a Finnish cabin where you can recline in juniper-laced dry
heat. There are also six treatment-rooms in which to enjoy tranquil massages and
rejuvenating facials using Temple Spa products. But the hotel’s latest draw is Mo,
a chef ’s-table experience where just 12 diners at a time gather to enjoy a seven-
course seasonal tasting menu that champions the finest local ingredients, from duck
liver and crab to celeriac, fig and blackberry. SOPHIE CHAPMAN
Dormy House, from £269 a room a night (www.dormyhouse.co.uk).

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Grantley Hall YOR K SH I R E


Situated in the Yorkshire Dales,
moments from the Unesco World
Heritage Site of Fountains Abbey and
the meandering River Skell, is the
palatial Grantley Hall. As well as a
rolling manicured parkland to explore
on foot, the hotel offers an excellent
spa, whose facilities include a hydro-
therapy pool and an outdoor cedar hot tub. The 47
guest-rooms come with plush carpets, spacious bath-
rooms and fabulously comfortable beds. Dining blends
traditional sophistication with experimental flair:
indulge in a locally sourced menu at Shaun Rankin’s
restaurant, sample pan-Asian cuisine at Eighty Eight or
enjoy classic afternoon tea with fluffy scones that you
can pile high with jam and cream. ASHLEY SAVILLE
Grantley Hall, from £340 a room a night (www.grantley
hall.co.uk).
JACK HARDY, ROBIN BALL, NICHOLAS YARSLEY, ANDIE MOORE, CARLIE TASKER
PHOTOGRAPHS: ADAM LYNK, HARRY CORY WRIGHT, ADRIAN HOUSTON,

Lulworth Estate D OR SE T
A gentle sea breeze, beautiful landscapes and panoramic coastal
views: the Lulworth Estate offers a taste of Thomas Hardy
country at its most bucolic. As well as a 17th-century castle, the
grounds are home to a collection of luxury self-catering proper-
ties that are ideal for celebratory gatherings, or just a brief respite
from the stresses of urban life. The Lindens is perfect for larger
groups, with its nine bedrooms, a family-size kitchen and heated
swimming pool, while Woodside Lodge comes with a croquet
lawn and a baby grand piano. A short ramble down the cliff path
will lead you to Durdle Door, the famous rock arch; nearby, you’ll
also find Lulworth Cove, where
you can pass the day paddling
in crystal-clear waters and eat-
ing vinegary fish and chips on
the shore. ANNABEL NUGENT
Woodside Lodge and the Lindens on
the Lulworth Estate, from £564 a
night (www.lulworth.com).

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Four Seasons H A M P SH I R E
The Four Seasons’ Hampshire outpost lies within 500 acres of glorious countryside, which
boast a tranquil lake where you can try your hand at catch-and-release fishing. Evidence of the
hotel’s recent revamp can be found in the jewel-toned bar, complete with tasselled armchairs
and sparkling crystal cocktail glasses. At the Wild Carrot restaurant, fresh oysters and juicy
scallops are expertly paired with a glass of champagne by the sommelier, while breakfast is a
plentiful array of fruit, fresh bread and farmhouse bacon. Bedrooms are equipped with thick
bathrobes, an abundance of pillows, and custom mattresses with heat-absorption technology,
ensuring you’ll wake up feeling suitably refreshed. KATIE MASON
Four Seasons Hampshire, from £260 a room a night (www.fourseasons.com).

The Hoxton Southwark


L ON D ON
Ever ahead of the curve, the Hoxton
hotel brand has opened its shiny new
outpost in the capital’s current hot-
spot, Southwark, following successful
launches in Shoreditch and Holborn.
This third iteration stays true to the
industrial-style design of its predeces-
sors, with perfectly pitched rooms sized from
PHOTOGRAPHS: KATE NIELEN (WWW.KATENIELEN.COM),
RICHARD WAITE, © ROBERT RIEGER, MANGO STUDIOS,

Shoebox to Biggy, each one styled with wood-


panelled walls and brushed-brass fittings. As ever,
WINNIE NHAM/WINNIE DORA PHOTOGRAPHY

it’s all in the details, such as a fridge that you can


stock with snacks from reception, the daily delivery
of a breakfast bag containing fruit, an energy bar
and a juice, and a notebook filled with recommend-
ations of what to do in the area. But there’s really no
need to leave, thanks to a buzzing bar and the
rooftop restaurant Seabird, which offers stellar
seafood and panoramic city views. LH
The Hoxton Southwark, from £119 a room a night
(www.thehoxton.com).

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The Newt
S OM E R SE T
Opening a sister property to its
beloved South African winery
and resort Babylonstoren was
never going to be easy, but the
hoteliers Koos and Karen Bekker
have triumphed with the Newt.
Set in a 300-acre landscaped
garden, this idyllic hotel com-
bines stylish decor with a superb
spa and delicious food. Breakfast, lunch and dinner
can be enjoyed in the Botanical Rooms, where
seasonal fruit and vegetables, hand-picked on the
estate, are served alongside fresh
breads from the on-site bakery and
butter from Somerset cows. While it’s
tempting to stay in the warm, reading
a book or playing backgammon, it’s
worth booking a tour of the cider press
and bottling plant, which make use of
the 460 British apple-trees that have
been planted in the egg-shaped walled
garden. CAMILLA PATTERSON
The Newt, £275 a room a night (www.
thenewtinsomerset.com).

The Fife Arms A BE R DE E N SH I R E


An art-lover’s dream, the Fife Arms is the brainchild of the gallerists Iwan and Manuela
Wirth, who have filled this former Victorian coaching inn with more than 12,000 master-

PHOTOGRAPHS: HANNAH K PHOTOGRAPHY (WWW.HANNAHKPHOTOGRAPHY.CO.UK), STOCKSY


pieces, including a Lucian Freud in the entrance hall and a 30-foot Louise Bourgeois
spider sculpture that crouches dramatically in a courtyard. The 46 individually curated
bedrooms come with ornate wallpapers, an abundance of tweed and tartans and a
decanter of delicious whisky. In the drawing-room, you can melt into a sofa in front of
a crackling fire and take afternoon tea beneath a Picasso – a pot of Earl Grey will set you
up for a hike through the picturesque village of Braemar and up to the Cairngorm
Mountains (there’s even a boot-room with rain jackets and wellies to borrow). LH
The Fife Arms, from £250 a room a night (www.thefifearms.com).

228 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | April 2020


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ESCAPE

Below: Patricia
Gucci. Top right:
the beach deck
at Amansala.
Below right: the
Tulum coastline

PATRICIA GUCCI
The designer revels in the meditative
magic of Tulum

PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES, JULIE HEALY, BORG NINO, PIXELATE, LUCKY IF SHARP,
COURTESY OF PATRICIA GUCCI. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
Three words that describe Tulum?
‘Tropical, mystical, laid-back.’
Best place to stay
‘My daughters swear by Nomade, but I love
La Valise – a private boutique hotel nestled
between the jungle and the Caribbean Sea. Its
upper beachfront suites
are fabulous; they feel Where to go for an adventure
like a home from home ‘Snorkelling in the crystal-clear freshwater
(www.lavalise.com).’ cenotes, natural sinkholes that run deep into the
Favourite restaurant jungle. There’s nothing like spotting a crocodile BAZAAR
‘Posada Margherita – a slice to get your heart racing!’
of Italy on the beach Insider secret
(www.posadamargherita.com).’ ‘A shamanic healing with Maria Luisa at T R AV E L
Most inspiring view Amansala is a must (www.amansala.com).’
Above: a Beach ‘The jungle canopies from the What do you pack?
Front room at La Mexican-Japanese fusion restaurant Tseen Ja, ‘My Aviteur cabin case always contains Eres
Valise. Far right, perched in a giant treehouse at Azulik hotel, bikinis, a wide-brimmed straw hat by Watercult,
from centre: villas
where we celebrated my daughter Isabella’s 25th Pilot Puzzle sunglasses by Loewe and a long silk
at Azulik. The
hotel’s Tseen birthday (www.azulik.com).’ chiffon kaftan made by my friend
Ja restaurant A relaxation tip Andrea Bizzarro for Hook Design.’
‘Have a massage on the beach with Angie at Beauty essentials
Sanará Tulum, followed by a charcoal lemonade ‘Caudalie Beauty Elixir; Chantecaille
at the Real Coconut – the best way to detox Blue Light Protection Hyaluronic
from too many margaritas the night before Serum; La Mer the Eye Balm Intense;
(www.sanaratulum.com).’ and Fracas by Robert Piguet, which
A special memory has been my perfume for more
‘Attending the Mayan Temazcal than 30 years.’
ceremony under a full moon.’ A holiday read
Beauty
Elixir, ‘The Tao of Pooh by
£32 Benjamin Hoff. I love the way it
Caudalie
makes me reflect on my own life.’
About Blue Light
£325 £3,605 Protection
£320
Birkenstock x Aviteur Hyaluronic
Loewe
Il Dolce Far Serum,
Niente £135
£59
Watercult Chantecaille
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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

A TASTE
OF ASIA
Relish the continent’s exotic fusion of
cultures, including an astounding culinary
heritage, in ultra-luxury with Seabourn

From vibrant cities to remote hill tribes, golden temples to


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Seabourn. The experience is like staying
in a boutique hotel that carries you from
one enthralling destination to the next. It’s like staying in
Whether you’re exploring the Hindu
temples of Angkor Wat in Cambodia,
a boutique hotel
sailing along the Saigon River to Ho Chi that carries you and friendly service are guaranteed. You’ll
Minh and between the limestone pillars of from one enthralling feel cared for, not just catered to.
Halong Bay in Vietnam, or admiring the With food such an integral ingredient
towering skylines of Hong Kong and
stop to the next in the joy of travel, you’ll find Seabourn’s
Singapore, travel on the Seabourn Ovation all-inclusive culinary offerings equal to the
is elegant yet casual, sumptuous but understated, upscale as finest restaurants ashore. You’ll dine when you want, and with
well as relaxed — and you’ll only need to unpack once. Your who you want, at a choice of restaurants, including The Grill
ocean-facing Veranda Suite is one of only 300, so intimacy by Thomas Keller, the multi-Michelin-starred American chef.
At Sushi, you can sample the freshest gourmet seafood, pre-
pared in front of you, while the inventive menus at Earth &
Ocean are inspired by a wide-ranging selection of traditional
dishes from around the world.
To further immerse yourself in the flavours of Asia, you can
also go food shopping in one of the lively local markets with
the ship’s chef – in Muscat or Aqaba, perhaps. And you can
enjoy champagne and ‘Caviar in the Surf ’ on an idyllic beach in
Clockwise from top: Thailand; just one example of
fine dining on the the extraordinary experiences
‘Seabourn Ovation’.
that will become daily occur-
The Yen River in
Vietnam. Halong Bay rences with Seabourn.
For 2020/2021, Seabourn offers
worldwide destinations across
all seven continents. For further
information, ring 0344 338 8615
or visit www.seabourn.com.
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Francis Alÿs

Angelina
Volk

Helen Cammock

Iwona Blazwick

Antony Gormley
PLAYING TO
THE GALLERY
Art-world A-listers gathered in east London for
a sparkling dinner celebrating creative talent
Edited by CHARLOTTE BROOK Giorgio Guidotti and
Jacqueline Euwe
A spirit of collaborative creativity presided over the Whitechapel
Gallery’s annual Art Icon gala dinner, this year honouring Francis Farshid
Alÿs. Held in partnership with Swarovski, the event saw guests Moussavi
including the fashion designer Grace Wales Bonner, Frieze
London’s new artistic director Eva Langret and the Turner Prize
winner Helen Cammock sip champagne amid avant-garde
arrangements of acid-hued orchids, before heading through to
the exhibition space for dinner. Over a feast of burratina with black
olives, roast guinea fowl and mandarin orange pâte de fruit, the
gallery’s director Iwona Blazwick warmly thanked her peers for
being a part of ‘our extraordinary community of art enthusiasts’.
Eva
Indeed, the strength of support for the east-London institution
Langret
was demonstrated by the calibre of the donated auction lots,
including tea with Tracey Emin in her Margate studio and dinner
at the nearby restaurant Bistrotheque with Blazwick and Antony
Grace Wales
Gormley, who whipped out his pocket-size notepad to sketch his Bonner
fellow diners the moment his plate was empty. CB

PHOTOGRAPHS: OLIVER HOLMS, GETTY IMAGES

Catherine Petitgas

Cheyenne Westphal and


Renee Odjidja Rebecca Tooby-Desmond
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FLASH!

Sandy Powell Hannah Graf

Nicole Simone, Suan-Li


Ong and Ruby Turner

Sally Potter and


Elle Fanning
Honor Swinton Byrne

Joanna Hogg

MOVIE
MAGIC
Critics honoured the year’s leading film
professionals at a star-studded awards ceremony
Some of cinema’s brightest young stars sparkled among Jessie Buckley
luminaries of the British film industry in the May Fair Hotel at the
40th London Critics’ Circle Awards. Over cocktails, Elle Fanning,
embodying old-school Hollywood glamour in diamonds and a
cream Ralph Lauren gown, delightedly greeted the English
director Sally Potter, to whom she was later to present a prize.
‘Sally reaches parts of your soul you didn’t know existed,’ she said.
During the ceremony, a glowing Jessie Buckley accepted the
Best Actress trophy on behalf of Renée Zellweger with a moving
speech, saluting her friend and Judy co-star’s extraordinary
performance. The last award of the night went to Sandy Powell,
who reminisced about her prolific career designing costumes
for characters in films from The Favourite to Orlando. ‘It doesn’t
Lindy King come much better than dressing Tilda Swinton as both male
Stephen
and female,’ she declared from the podium, to the amusement
Woolley
of Swinton’s daughter, the actress Honor, who was sitting
Raffey Cassidy in the audience. CB

Sally Phillips Elizabeth Karlsen


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Alberta Ferretti (www.albertaferretti.com) Alexander McQueen
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CC Tapis (www.cc-tapis.com) Celine by Hedi Slimane (www.celine.com)
Ceraudo x Tess Newall (www.ceraudo.com) CH Carolina Herrera Every time I go to those rooms, I have a feeling of having circled back
(www.carolinaherrera.com) Chanel and Chanel Fine Jewellery to where I began.’
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Givenchy (www.givenchy.com) Gucci (www.gucci.com) Harry find any of that matters.’
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I wonder what she makes of the travails of the Royal Family
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marthearmitage.co.uk) Max Mara (www.maxmara.com) Michael Kors says. ‘But I think that Meghan was too good to be true. She was
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Watercult (www.watercult.com) Zaeem Jamal (www.zaeemjamal.com) We rise from our seats in this chilly chamber, the breath of history
all around us. The Mirror & the Light marks a stunning culmination
of an astonishing achievement. Hilary Mantel has been made a
Dame, but she is truly the queen of modern British literature.
‘The Mirror & the Light’ (£25, Fourth Estate) is published on 5 March.

234 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | April 2020 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk


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A DV E R T I S E M E N T F E AT U R E

BA Z A A R DOGS
GOODCHAP ’S
The Canine Gifting Experts

Goodchap’s is an eco-friendly brand that specialises in dog products for


both human and hound. So all of their packing and products are plastic free,
biodegradable and recyclable.

Goodchap’s British made dog treats are free of additives and made from 100%
natural ingredients, making them wheat free, gluten free, low in fat and high
in protein. As well as healthy treats, Goodchap’s also offer a range of handmade
100% cotton toys, and eco-friendly gifts for both dogs and dog-lovers.
www.goodchaps.co.uk
Instagram @goodchaps.uk

THE FURRY COUTURE


The Furry Couture is the sartorial branch of London-based, luxury
organic dog treat company, The Furry Chef. The company has taken a
DOGKCO firm stance on quality & sustainability: their line of unique harnesses and
This trendy Personalised Dog Kcollar is not only durable but will collars are made entirely of organic cotton and repurposed hand-stitched
make your own or a mate’s dog the most stylish in town. Made with leather. All harnesses are fitted with recycled velcro for an easy and
premium soft leather for a high-end look and feel, your dog will surely comfortable fit as well as a durable, solid brass ring to attach your lead.
thank you for it! Warning though: this kcollar may cause irresistible Pictured is a Shiba Inu wearing the “Shoreditch” Hoodie harness.
attention from other pawrents! Visit: dogkco.com | IG/FB @dogkco www.furrychef.com @furrychef
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A DV E R T I S E M E N T F E AT U R E

STYLE EDIT
MAKIKO WAKITA
fine jewellery's ‘Motto’
collection is made with
a cast of an 1800s desk
seal intaglio with French,
Italian or Latin sentiments,
all set with quality white
diamonds. Their solid
gold fine jewellery is
handcrafted using the lost
wax technique, resulting
in one-of-a-kind pieces.
Making their pieces part
of your own story and
pass them down with a
message for generations to
come. Made locally in Los
Angeles, California, each
processes are reviewed
carefully & thoughtfully SPANGELO DESIGNS
by the designer. Visit Specialise in gowns and cocktail dresses with demi-couture finishes.
makikowakita.com Custom designs available on request. Sustainability is our mantra!
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(Photo Credit: @ambsmichellle & @jocelynnegronstudio) Model: @cherisejohnson_, Photo: @me.sublime

CASTLEBIRD ROSE
Castlebird Rose is a Nordic slow and sustainable fashion designer brand,
where silk meets the art of painting. By recreating artists’ original 50% OFF CASHMERE SWEATER AND
paintings on genuine silk and authentic materials, Castlebird Rose revive CARDIGAN COLLECTION!
hidden gems of the art world giving every day a touch of luxury and Classic refined fit sweaters and cardigans.
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couture making Castlebird Rose’s prints unique and valuable. Limited Stock! £110 now £55 Colour shown Rich Camel.
Visit castlebirdrose.com or follow @castlebirdrose on Instagram. Visit: frenchvelvet.co.uk or call to order on: +44 (0) 01325 460669
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A DV E R T I S E M E N T F E AT U R E

BIJOUX EDIT

NIKKOTAKKO JEWELRY
The midnight magic of the North, the colours and contrasts of nature
and different cultures, the asymmetry and absurdism found in literature
and art are all never-ending sources of inspiration for designer Katri Juva.
Materials are sourced responsibly and each piece is unique and
handcrafted locally in Finland. Express what you love and go crazy
with colour!
www.nikkotakko.com | Follow us on Instagram @nikkotakkojewelry
Photo by Valentina Morales Buschmann

THE NEW
ROMANTIC IS
ON STAGE
The new romantic
style reinvents our
souls!
Baumondi shoe
jewellery is made to be
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look but to add some
spice to your feminine
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suits a romantic dress
better than trendy
shoes or a statement SOPHIE HARLEY LONDON
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of them. Pick a LION her exquisite jewellery collections or to have their own unique bespoke
or a BEE, mix them pieces created, often from re-modelling existing pieces of jewellery.
with a TIGER or The beautiful pieces featured are made in 18ct gold and set with a
ROSES and reveal delicious assortment of colourful stones including Green and Purple
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HE A LTH & BE AUTY

NAISSANCE
Good On You Organic Skin Repair Oil – Multi award winning
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The vibrant, naturally fragranced serum offers lightweight,


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A DV E R T I S E M E N T F E AT U R E

HE A LTH & BE AUTY


SENSITIVITY
Sensitive Skin? Heal Your Gut.

The benefits of drinking kefir.


Beautiful glowing skin comes from the
inside out. Recent science confirms that
your skin and your gut are connected,
by the “Gut-Skin axis.” Spots, blemishes,
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Probiotic Goats Milk Kefir – Made by hand with absolutely ZERO added ingredients.

Amazing range of handmade lotions


and cleansers. Heal your skin from the
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Chuckling Goat Teas.


Natural herbal teas can help
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For more information and to shop visit www.chucklinggoat.co.uk, your own spa-style ritual The real deal – Made using actual herbs,
email info@chucklinggoat.co.uk and follow us on social @chucklinggoat whenever you need a break. roots and f lowers!
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Bazaar Fashion Edit

Self-upload your wardrobe and shop sustainably.


Apply for VIP concierge service.
FOR DETAILS OF CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 3728 6260 OR VISIT WWW.HEARSTMAGAZINESDIRECT.CO.UK

Buy & sell the world’s most coveted brands.

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Bazaar Fashion Edit
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A ZAAR
B

Braided leather case,


£3,440, Gucci

…CELEBRATE YOUR
STYLE HERO?
Tiggy the kitty has always looked up to the
feline star of The Jungle Book, which is why she calls this
larger-than-life accessory the ‘Bag-heera’ – it’s a rare
necessity that’s truly the big cat’s whiskers!

PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL ZAK


STYLED BY TILLY WHEATING
SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
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