Contemporary Chocolates: by Melissa Coppel
Contemporary Chocolates: by Melissa Coppel
Contemporary Chocolates: by Melissa Coppel
by MELISSA COPPEL
MOLDED BONBONS
Tea Time . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Coco-Nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Passione . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Crema Catalana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Maduixa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
DESSERT BARS
Noisette . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Pecan Tart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Sacher . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
THEORY
Theory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
TEA TIME
AW: 0.78
Ingredients
Water (Scale 130 grs) Gr 80 21%
Tea “Flower Garden by Pierre Herme” Gr 6 0%
CHEF RUBBER Dextrose Gr 25 7%
CHEF RUBBER Inverted sugar Gr 8 2%
CHEF RUBBER Sorbitol Gr 28 7%
Sea salt Gr 0.5 0.1%
European butter Gr 35 9%
CACAO BARRY Alunga 41% Gr 200 52%
Total weight Gr 382.5 98.4%
Method:
In a pot warm 130 grams of water to 9oC. Turn the heat off, add tea and cover with
plastic. Let infuse for 5 minutes.
Re scale to 80 grams, add sugars, salt and butter and warm just to dissolve the sugars.
Make an emulsion with the melted chocolate.
Pipe at 29C on a milk chocolate shell.
Cookie Crunch
Ingredients
Maria Cookies (scale 100 grs) Gr 50 23%
CACAO BARRY Zephyr Caramel 35% Gr 85 39%
PREGEL Hazelnut Paste 100% Gr 85 39%
Sea salt Gr 0.6 0.3%
Total weight Gr 220.6 100%
Method:
Grind the Maria cookies. Sift and discard the powder. Re scale to 50 grams.
Melt the chocolate and mix everything together. Temper to 24C.
Spread in a silpat, place in the fridge for 10 minutes and then cut to the desired shape.
In this case, it needs to fit in the 3cm half sphere mold.
COCO-NUT
Ingredients
BOIRON Coconut puree Gr 300 57%
Lime juice Gr 40 8%
Lime zest Units 2 0%
Glucose syrup Gr 30 6%
Granulated sugar Gr 150 0.5%
Total weight Gr 522 71.764367816092%
Method:
Ingredients
Lightly roasted black sesame seeds Gr 100 13%
Sucrose Gr 225 29.0%
Almond butter Gr 180 23.2%
Sea salt Gr 2 0%
Sesame oil Gr 60 8%
CACAO BARRY Alunga 41% Gr 160 21%
CACAO BARRY Cacao Butter Gr 50 6.4%
Total weight Gr 777 100%
Method:
Toast black sesame seeds at 300F for 10 minutes or in a pot until they start
popping like popcorn.
Make a dark caramel with the sugar and pour over the seeds.
Cool down and grind with the almond butter, oil and sea salt.
Add melted cacao butter and tempered milk chocolate.
Pipe immediately on top of the lime caramel.
PASSIONE
Passion Ganache
AW: 0.79
Ingredients
BOIRON Passion fruit puree Gr 95 24%
CHEF RUBBER Dextrose Gr 25 6%
CHEF RUBBER Inverted sugar Gr 25 6%
CHEF RUBBER Sorbitol Gr 28 7%
CACAO BARRY ALUNGA 41% Gr 190 48%
European butter Gr 30 8%
Total weight Gr 393 100%
Method:
Gianduja
Ingredients
Powder sugar p 70 15%
Dark Roasted piedmont hazelnuts Gr 120 25%
PREGEL 100% Hazelnut paste Gr 120 25%
CACAO BARRY Alunga 41% Milk Gr 100 21%
CACAO BARRY Cacao mass Gr 20 4%
CACAO BARRY Cacao butter Gr 50 10%
Sea salt Gr 1 0%
Total weight Gr 480 100%
Method:
In the robot coupe process hazelnuts and powder sugar to make a powder.
Add hazelnut paste and keep processing. Process in the refiner for 30 minutes.
In a bowl mix with melted cacao butter, cacao mass and tempered chocolate
or temper to 24C. Pipe immediately.
CREMA CATALANA
VANILLA “CURD” GANACHE | BITTER CARAMEL CRYSTALS | MILK AND DARK CHOCOLATE
AW: 0.80
Ingredients
CHEF RUBBER Dextrose Gr 32 8%
CHEF RUBBER Inverted sugar Gr 5 1.2%
CHEF RUBBER Sorbitol Gr 28 6.6%
Yolks Gr 35 8%
Cream Gr 120 28%
Sea salt Gr 1 0%
Lemon zest Unit 1/2 0.1%
Vanilla bean Unit 1 0.2%
CACAO BARRY Zephyr 34% Gr 200 47.4%
Butter Gr 30 0.1%
CHEF RUBBER Citric acid Gr 1 0.1%
Total weight Gr 422 100%
Method:
Mix sugars with egg yolks and cream. Add salt, zest and vanilla bean and cook to 82C.
Strain, add citric acid and butter. Make an emulsion with the melted chocolate.
When the ganache is at 28C fold in caramel crystals. Pipe at 27C
Caramel Crystals
Ingredients
CHEF RUBBER Sorbitol Gr 20 9%
Sucrose Gr 200 91%
Total weight Gr 220 100%
Method:
Melt sorbitol and then make a caramel slowly with the sucrose.
Pour it in a silat and spread it very thin. Let cool down and brake in small crystals.
MADUIXA
Strawberry Ganache
AW: 0.80
Ingredients
BOIRON Strawberry puree Gr 80 21%
Cream Gr 60 16%
CHEF RUBBER Sorbitol Gr 28 7%
CHEF RUBBER Inverted sugar Gr 8 2%
European butter Gr 30 7.9%
CHEF RUBBER Citric acid Gr 1.8 0.5%
SOSA Strawberry extract (40 drops) Drops 0 0.0%
CACAO BARRY Zephyr 34% Gr 170 45.0%
Total weight Gr 378 100.0%
Method:
Warm puree, cream, butter and sugars to 40C. Add citric acid and extract and
make an emulsion with the melted chocolate.
Pipe at 27C. on top of the balsamic reduction.
Balsamic Reduction
Ingredients
Balsamic vinegar Gr 200 89%
Glucose syrup Gr 25 11%
Total weight Gr 225 100%
Method:
NOISETTE
Tangerine Caramel
Ingredientes
BOIRON Tangerine juice Gr 110 30%
Glucose syrup Gr 70 19%
Sea salt Gr 1 0%
CHEF RUBBER Sorbitol Gr 20 5.4%
Sucrose Gr 90 24.4%
Butter Gr 75 20.3%
CHEF RUBBER Liquid soy lecithin Gr 3 0.8%
Tangerine zest Unit 1 0.0%
SOSA Tangerine extract Drops 15 0.0%
Total weight Gr 369 100.0%
Method
Ingredients
Cream Gr 120 31%
CHEF RUBBER Sorbitol Gr 28 7%
CHEF RUBBER Dextrose Gr 25 6.4%
CHEF RUBBER Inverted sugar Gr 5 1.3%
Butter Gr 25 6.4%
CACAO BARRY Zephyr Caramel 35% Gr 190 48.3%
Total weight Gr 393 100.0%
Method
Hazelnut Sponge
Ingredients
Whole eggs Gr 125 18%
Dark brown sugar Gr 165 24%
Melted butter Gr 140 21%
CACAO BARRY Alunga couverture 41% Gr 55 8%
All purpose flour Gr 65 9.6%
Piedmont Hazelnut flour Gr 100 14.8%
Sea salt Gr 1 0.1%
Piedmont hazelnut pieces Gr 25 3.7%
Total weight Gr 676 100.0%
Method:
Cream eggs and sugar. Melt chocolate and mix with melted butter.
Add slowly to egg mixture until you create an emulsion.
Add sifted dry ingredients and chopped hazelnut pieces.
Bake 160 C.
PECAN TART
Muscovado Sablee
Ingredients
Muscovado sugar Gr 80 13%
Butter, soft Gr 170 27%
Marcona Almonds Gr 100 16%
Sea Salt Gr 2 0.3%
Eggs Gr 40 6%
All purpose flour Gr 240 38%
Total weight Gr 632 100%
Method:
Pecan Praline
Ingredients
Powder sugar p 70 15%
Pecan paste Gr 240 51%
CACAO BARRY Alunga 41% Milk Gr 100 21%
CACAO BARRY Cacao mass Gr 10 2%
CACAO BARRY Cacao butter Gr 50 11%
Sea salt Gr 1 0%
Total weight Gr 470 100%
Method:
Mix the pecan paste with the powder sugar, melted cacao butter, sea salt,
muscovado sable pieces and tempered chocolate.
Pipe immediately on top of the vanilla caramel.
Vanilla Caramel
Ingredientes
Cream Gr 170 35%
Condensed milk Gr 30 6%
Glucose syrup Gr 80 17%
Sea salt Gr 1 0%
CHEF RUBBER Sorbitol Gr 15 3.1%
Sucrose Gr 100 20.8%
Butter Gr 80 16.7%
CHEF RUBBER Liquid soy lecithin Gr 3 0.6%
Vanilla bean Unit 1 0.2%
Total weight Gr 480 100.0%
Method:
Boil cream, condensed milk, glucose syrup, vanilla and sea salt.
In a different pot melt sorbitol, then add sucrose slowly to make a dry caramel.
Deglaze with the hot cream.
Immediately add butter and lecithin and boil only until butter is dissolved (around 30 seconds)
Take off the heat, hand blend very well. Let cool down completely before using.
SACHER
Chocolate Sauce
AW: 0.80
Ingredients
Cream Gr 110 32%
Glucose syrup Gr 110 32%
CHEF RUBBER Sorbitol Gr 24 7.0%
Butter Gr 20 6%
CACAO BARRY Cacao mass Gr 20 5.8%
CACAO BARRY Inaya 65% Gr 60 17.4%
Total weight Gr 344 100.0%
Method:
Raspberry Ganache
AW: 0.78
Ingredients
BOIRON Raspberry puree Gr 90 26%
CHEF RUBBER Dextrose Gr 22 6%
CHEF RUBBER Inverted sugar Gr 15 4.4%
CHEF RUBBER Sorbitol Gr 22 6%
European butter Gr 35 10.2%
CACAO BARRY Haiti 65% Gr 40 11.6%
CACAO BARRY Alunga 41% Gr 120 34.9%
SOSA Raspberry extract Drops 10 0.0%
Total weight Gr 344 100.0%
Method:
In a pot warm puree, butter and all sugars to 40C. Make an emulsion with the
melted chocolates. Pipe on top of the chocolate sauce at 32C.
Ingredients
Moscovado sugar Gr 165 30%
European butter Gr 138 25%
Whole eggs Gr 110 20%
CACAO BARRY Tanzanie 75% Gr 75 13%
AP flour Gr 61 11%
CACAO BARRY Cacao powder Gr 6.5 1.2%
Sea salt Gr 0.6 0.1%
Total weight Gr 556 100%
Method:
Melissa Coppel
Pre-Crystallization or Tempering
Chocolate
Tempering could be defined as the process where the chocolate mass goes from a liquid state (after been
melted) to a stable solid state.
When Chocolate is melted, we obtain a typical dispersion: Basically cocoa solids and sugar are distributed in
the cocoa butter.
Pre-crystallization is then linked only to the fatty part of the mass.
When chocolate is properly tempered, between 1% to 2% of solid cocoa butter in the form of fat micro-crys-
tals is obtained which will serve to force the rest of the fat to solidify after using it for: coating, molding, casting,
etc.
We need to understand that temperature is not so important, but the creation of solid fat crystals within choco-
late.
Two important things to highlight about all this:
F The temperature you should “pre-crystallize” or “temper” your chocolate is directly related to the amount of
cacao butter there is in your chocolate. The higher the %, the higher also you can work it.
F You only need 1% of stable crystals in your chocolate to temper it, so one good method to temper that
isn’t traditional, is to add 1% of mycryo, or creamy cacao butter to your melted chocolate at 35C and
emulsify well.
F Let the temperature drop to the normal tempered working temperature of the chocolate you are using and
your chocolate will be tempered.
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F A quick note here: Every time we want to keep a crunchy texture, we need to use a fat base filling.
The following chart will show the ideal percentages to create a well-balanced ganache.
The total water content is the sum of the water % in all the ingredients in the recipe that contain water:
Creams, purees, infusions, etc
This is the sum of all the sugars that we add plus the sucrose contained in the couverture.
Couvertures are responsible for giving the product a chocolate taste. They also have a hardening effect because
they contain cacao butter.
That been said, a ganache with high cacao butter content, will acquire a dry and unpleasant texture and will
also re-crystallize.
For this reason, we must use anti-crystallizing sugars.
The total dairy fat content is the sum of the dairy fat % in cream, butter or any other dairy added to the recipe.
Plus the dairy fat % in the Milk or White Chocolate, if used.
Formulation Example:
Guayaquil 65% Ganache:
Weight of the ingredient multiplied by 100 then divided by the total weight:
F 0#+Brsk6lkkGmqnkH2-2*5#'%&2J29.6%
F &-!-*2#lokk6lkkGmqnk53.2%
F #620-1#Bmmk6lkkGmqnk8.4%
F 322#0Blmk6lkkGmqnk4.5%
F -0 '2-*Bllk6lkkGmqnk4.2%
F 0#+&1np|$2A1-'21#12'+2#52#0!-,2#,2'1Bqp|
Calculation:
mt@q!0#+6k@qp19.2%
F #620-1#&1,-52#0!-,2#,2
F &-!-*2#qp|&1,-52#0!-,2#,2
F 322#0&1,..0-6@52#0!-,2#,2-$Blq|
Calculation:
o@p 322#06k@lq0.7%
F -0 '2-*&1,-52#0!-,2#,2
Formulation Example:
TOTAL SUGAR CONTENT:
F #620-1#B3%0!-,2#,2-$lkk|
Calculation:
s@n6l8.3%
F &-!-*2#qp|&1np|13%0
Calculation:
pn@m6k@np|18.6%
F -0 '2-*&1lkk|13%0!-,2#,2
Calculation:
n@k6@lkk3%
The only ingredient that contains cocoa butter in this recipe is the 65% Chocolate. And its content is 40%
F !- 322#0ok|
Calculation:
pn@m6k@ok 21.2%
Formulation Example:
TOTAL DAIRY FAT CONTENT:
F 322#0!-,2',1..0-6@so|$2
Calculation:
o@p 322#06k@son@r|
F 0#+&1np|$2
Calculation:
mt@q!0#+6k@np10%
When piping your ganache in the chocolate shells for molded bonbons, or spreading your ganache to be cut
after and enrobe, it is mandatory to respect the pre-crystallization temperatures. This temperature will be deter-
mined by the type of chocolate used to make the ganache. This will ensure a really creamy texture that will stay
overtime as well as the ability in the case of the enrobed bonbons to cut it without a problem, this considering
you add the right amount of cacao butter in the recipe.
Pre-crystallization temperatures:
Sugars
Their properties and sweetening power:
It is very important to have this chart when balancing your own recipes. Only the most commonly used sugars
in Chocolate making are listed.
It has been proven that combining sugars gives better results than just using them separately. Combining them
is also important when trying to have a good AW reading.
Sucrose 100
Inverted Sugar 125
Honey 120-130
Dextrose - Glucose 70
Glucose Syrup DE60 - DE40 65-45
Sorbitol 55
Present in all the couvertures. And also used to make caramel based ganaches. In this case it works great be-
cause you can have a long shelf life recipe without being too sweet.
It brings crystallization, that it is why it is usually used in combination with glucose syrup, which is an anti crys-
tallizing sugar.
Inverted Sugar:
Its sweetening power is really high, that is why we usually keep the values between1% to 3%. It is a very hydro-
scopic sugar, that mea keeping products moist, that is why is recommended in white chocolate ganaches that
tend to dry out because of the high cacao butter content.
Honey:
It is a natural inverted sugar. Could be used to replace inverted sugar, but it will give a honey flavor.
Melissa Coppel
Sugars
Dextrose:
The sweetening power of Dextrose isn’t high. And it also has a great hydroscopic power. One of its interesting
properties is that it leaves a fresh sensation in the mouth, that it is why it goes very well with fruit ganaches.
Sorbitol:
Sorbitol is a sugar alcohol. It also has the highest hydroscopic power: That means it locks water in place, leaving
no free water for microorganisms to leave and reproduce. Its sweetening power is low, but we have to be care-
ful, because it can have a laxative effect, that is why we stay in values around 5% - 6%.
Glucose Syrup:
It has a very good anti crystallization property. That is why it is commonly used in recipes that have a caramel
base made with granulated sugar. Also in White chocolate ganaches, because of the high amount of cacao
butter and sugar.
Glucose syrup also gives ganaches an elastic texture.
AW is an essential value and it will give us a hint of the shelf life or durability of a product.
Water contained in food can be tied or free.
Measuring AW will let us know if there’s free water in a product. Free water is the water available for microorgan-
isms to live and reproduce.
This value is measure in a scale from 0 (product without free water) to 1 (pure water).
The AW can be measured in a device called AW meter.
Some examples:
AW Pure water 1
AW Ganache 0.68 – 0.90
AW Marzipan 0.70
AW Hard caramel 0.40
AW Chocolate 0.30
Microorganisms:
F #12 #25##,k@qp,"k@rk
F -*" #25##,k@rp,"k@sk
F !2#0' #25##,k@spSk@tk
AW Measurement Chart: