jean-pierre wybauw

Fine chocolates
gold
photography frank croes
tony le duc
serdar tanyeli
 Table of Contents
4

introduction II. Techniques

Foreword 10 and specials 117
A few sweet impressions by
the world’s great masters 11 Pr aliné pastes
and nut products 118
Marzipan and perzipan 122
I. the base 14 Marzipan recipes 124
fondant sugar dough 127
Ingredients 15 Sugar coating 130
About tasting 21 Candying 133
Aromas and flavours 23 Candied rosettes 135
Potential flavourings: Candied
what are their fruit-marzipan bonbons 136
pros and cons? 25 Candying fruits
Flavour combinations 31 and vegetables 137
Herbs, spices and fruits 33 Fruit dough 139
Flavours and trends Fudge 143
in the use of salt 40 Marshmallows 146
Precrystallising Recipes with gelatine as
(tempering) 42 the sole whipping agent 148
Ganache 54 Recipes with gelatine and
Shelf life – egg white as whipping agents 149
what you should know 81 Recipe with gelatine without
Improved shelf life mechanical aeration 150
in pr actice 85 Nougat 151
The use of alcohol 89 A few recipes and methods 152
Processing sugar 98 Lokum 155
Miscellaneous to get Car amelising 158
to work yourself 105 Car amels 161
Advocaat or egg liqueur 105 Butter caramels 163
Amaretto-egg liqueur Salted caramel 164
(with honey) 106 Honey caramels 164
Frappé 110 Chocolate caramels 165
Crystallised flowers to Chocolate caramels with mint 165
decorate confections 111 Nut caramels 166
Rolled fondant 112 Black devils 167
Gum paste 113 Caramel bars 168
Making your own silk screen chocolate spreads 169
foil and metal stencils 115 Recipes 173
 5

cut pr alines: hollow bullets

table of contents
various methods to turn with shelf life of
the ganache into a slab 176 approximately three weeks 203
piped pr alines: Champagne truffles 204
various methods to provide Beer ganache 1 205
the pr alines with a base 178 Beer ganache 2 206
dipping ganache pr alines 180 Beer caramel 207
miscellaneous 181 A few traditional recipes 208
Crunchy, tasty sticks 181 Baileys truffles 211
Baked marzipan 182 Bitter and vanilla 212
Egg liqueur truffles 213
Ganache-Cointreau cream 214
III. Recipes 183
hollow bullets
Truffles 184 with shelf life of
tr aditional truffles ma ximum three months 215
with shelf life of Wine truffles 216
up to three months 186 Mint ganache truffles 217
Aniseed truffles 187 Matcha truffles 218
Truffles with anise liqueur 188 Masticha truffles 219
Ginger truffles 189 Chestnut truffles 220
Vanilla truffles 190 Kirsch truffles 221
Honey truffles 191 White and dark 222
Gianduja truffles 191
Coconut truffle 192 hollow bullets
Spice truffles 193 with shelf life of
Lavender truffles 193 approximately six to
Cinnamon truffle 194 nine months 223
Mitilinis 195 Caramel truffles 224
Apricot-basil truffels 225
tr aditional truffles Pistachio truffles 226
with shelf life of Cranberry caramel 227
approximately six to Truffles with raspberry puree 228
nine months 196 Rabarbertruffles 229
Honey caramel truffles 197 Cardamomolive oil-honey truffles 230
Orange truffles 198 Lime-wasabi truffles 231
Butter truffle with kirsch 199 Marc de Champagne truffles 232
Coffee caramel truffles 200 Strawberries-ginger truffles 233
Praliné truffles 201 Banana with Earl Grey truffles 234
Coffee truffle 202
 6

cuvettes (cups) 235 Marzipan ganache 270

table of contents

Extra bitter 236 Sereh 271

Lime ganache 237 Almond praliné with cinnamon 272
Apricot 238 Sesame praliné 273
Orange ganache 239 Praliné cream 274
Praliné-lemon ganache 240 Pear and orange combo 275
Oriental 241 Almond with coffee 276
Bitter and rum 242 Honey praliné cream 277
Exotic 243 Almond chocolates 278
Caramel with orange 244 Lemon 279
Almond-kirsch praliné 245 Pistachio gianduja 280
Coriander 246 Almond tuiles 281
Praliné 247 Dulce de leche 282
Egg liqueur 248 Coconut and crispy 283
Caramel 249 Pistachio with cardamom ganache 284
Rum cream 249 Feuilletine 285
Anise cream 250 Butter praliné 286
Caramel snobinette 251 Gianduja ganache 287
Muesli bars 288
Ganache as a basic cream 252 Passion 289
Piped nuts 254 Crispy 290
Coffee delight 255 Pistachio ganache 291
Hazelnut rosette 256 Pistachio cubes 292
Orange slices 257 Nutty 293
Marzipan crunch 258 Nibs & Nuts 294
Marquise 259 Lavender sandwich 295
Praliné with passion fruit 296
confections with Almond caramel 297
the addition of Coffee gianduja 298
miscellaneous nuts 260 Cocktail 299
Almond cream 260 Lemon ganache with
Cinnamon and pistachio 261 orange blossom marzipan 300
Coconut Delight 262 Violette 301
Honey and cinnamon delight 263 Amandine 302
Ganache with nutmeg praliné 264 Pistachio ganache 304
Cardamom and pistachio ganache 265 Almond ganache 305
Speculaas cream 266 Pistachio gianduja sandwich 306
Raspberry praliné 267 Orange Crumby 307
Praliné ganache 268 Lime tea 308
Lime-and-pistachio ganache 269 Pear ganache with almond praliné 309
 7

Pistachio and bitter 310 Amaretto 347

table of contents
Praliné with coriander 311 Lavender and anise 348
Passion 312 Cappuccino 349
Gianduja ganache with pistachio 313 Anisette 350
Pear and orange combo 314 Orange with coriander 351
Whisky ganache 352
alcohol-based Tropical 353
confections 315 Orange bitters 354
Pistachio cubes 315 Pistachio praliné ganache 355
Aknot 316 Peach cocktail 356
Pistachio marzipan with whisky 317 Anise caramel 357
Advocaat cream 318 Heaven 358
Arabe 319 Calypso 359
Advocaat cream 320 Margarita 360
Marco 321 Lime 361
Wine cream 322
Al vino 323 confections – moulded,
Spring 324 piped and cut 362
Cherry 325 Palet d’or 362
Prune ganache 326 Coconut 365
Toscana 327 Passion fruit ganache 366
Apricot and coconut 328 Fresh mint and lime 367
Tea ganache 329 Red currant ganache with saffron 368
Sunny 330 Tea time 369
Caramel with coconut 331 Vanilla 370
Blackcurrant ganache 332 Lavender 371
Lavender 333 Red berries 372
Chestnut log 334 Salted caramel galette 373
Cognac ganache 335 Mocha ganache 374
Rum cream 336 Coffee ganache 375
Tropicana 337 Orangina 376
Kahlua 338 Forest 377
Port 339 Mango with saffron 378
Hellas 340 Banana 379
Lime with wodka 341 Rhubarb 380
Orange blossom 342 Frutty 381
Cream of raisins in cognac 343 Fruity caramel ganache 382
Cream with rum 344 Equador 383
Popping feeling 345 Mystère 384
Coconut 346 Egg ganache with orange 385
 8

Bitter and fruit 386 confections – moulded,

table of contents

Raspberry ganache 387 piped and cut with shelf

Honey with balsamic vinegar 388 life of at least six months 421
Passion fruit with a hint of mint 389 Caraibe 421
Pure Orange 390​ Raspberry-coriander caramel 422
Lemon grass 391 Cassis 423
Cherry 392 Blueberry combo 424
Orange ganache with almonds 393 Vanilla and raspberries 425
Vanilla ganache Fruity chestnut 426
with raspberry coulis 394 Lemon and mint ganache 427
Ginger 395 Apricot 428
Freshy with mint 396 Soft creamy fruit dough 428
Honey ganache with cinnamon 397 Blueberry 430
Mastika 398 Coconut with blueberries 431
Minty 399 Passion sticks 432
Antalya 400 Raspberry ganache 433
Asia 401 Caramel and banana combo 434
Espresso 402 Strawberry and cinnamon combo 435
Africa 403 Orange-jasmine caramel 436
Relief palette 404 Cocktail with coconut 437
Spring freshness 405 Raspberry ganache with saffron 438
Banana in coconut milk 406 Pineapple 439
Caramelised Banana 407 Matcha 440
Ginger and lime 408 Vanilla 441
Cream ganache with basil 409 Green tea 442
Anise and honey ganache 410 Tonka beans 443
Early grey ganache 411 Mushrooms 444
Coffee 412 Sea shells 445
Panache 413 Liquorice 446
Saffron 1 414 Jasmine 447
Saffron 2 415 Hot sticks 448
Cardamom 416 Cardamom with olive oil 449
Rio 417 Coffee ganache 450
Pacific 418 Mocha 451
Lava 419 Guava 452
Cappuccino 420 Honey ganache with anise 453
Orient 454
 9

IV. T echnical V. Appendices 519

for advanced

table of contents
professionals 455 Glossary 520
answers to a number
precrystallising from of frequently asked
a technical point of view 456 questions 533
are chocolate products recipe index 535
truly finished if
the chocolate has
been duly crystallised? 458
aver age nutritional
value of chocolate 460
rheology 462
evaluating chocolate 466
fats 469
fat imitators 474
emulsifiers 476
dietary fibre
and whipping agents 480
colloids 482
sugars 490
car amelising 503
shelf life 505
attr active pack aging
sometimes contributes
to the issue! 516
 preface

10

It was more than 15 years ago that the first

book in the ‘Fine Chocolates’ series was
published: its ambition was to be a functional
and practical specialist book for beginners as
well as experienced professional chocolatiers.
In subsequent years, three new titles appeared
in the same series, each one inspired by fresh
insights into a rapidly evolving world. Due to new
knowledge about ingredients, changing market
demands and new production methods I felt the
need to complement, elaborate or improve the
content of the first book. Consequently, ganaches,
shelf life and recipe creation were successively and
extensively discussed.

As a matter of fact, fifteen years later I go back

to where it all started at the time, the ambition
to bundle all the available knowledge related
to working with chocolate into a practical and
functional specialist book for professionals. In
doing so I have made a careful selection from
previously published chapters. In the reworking
process, I have also tried to take into account all
feedback, reactions and questions received over
the years. Due to the many improvements and theoretical and scientific aspects of the processes
adjustments it has eventually become a new book that are important when processing chocolate.
rather than a compilation or updated snapshot of
the knowledge and skills I originally wanted to I not only hope that everyone will enjoy reading
share with today’s professionals. the book, but also that everyone will have loads
of fun while working with and tasting the most
Fine Chocolates Gold consists of three parts. In delicious of delicacies that is chocolate.
Part I the basic principles related to working with
chocolate are discussed. Part II is centred around May 2016
recipes. In addition to older recipes – which have
all been reworked and improved – this part also Jean-Pierre Wybauw
features numerous new recipes. Each recipe also
lists the AW value as an important indicator for
shelf life. Lastly, Part III, takes a closer look at the
a few sweet impressions
by the world’s
great masters

11

A few sweet impressions by the world’s great masters

‘Jean-PierreWybauw is one of those personalities we would like I feel it an honour to be able to express my gratitude and admi-
to meet more often in the chocolate industry. Not only is he a ration today to a man whose dynamic nature has introduced
mine of information on all things chocolate, he is also a very me to the magic of chocolate, its technical secrets and expres-
kind hearted man, always available and willing to share his sive power. I hope that readers of this book will gain as much
knowledge. He is admired by an entire generation of appren- pleasure from browsing through its pages as I had discovering
tice chocolatiers. the many facets of Jean-Pierre Wybauw’s personality.’
He is a true enthusiast, whose in-depth knowledge of the
trade is matched by a passion to communicate this know-how Pierre Marcolini
to as many people as possible. His current work promises to be Master chocolatier, Belgium
a benchmark for the future.
To those who meet him, Jean-Pierre manages to convey his
great love of chocolate as an object of sweetness, his fondness ‘Dear Jean Pierre!
for food and his ebullient and dynamic nature – the very It is a great honour for me to be able to dedicate these lines
essence of his profession as a chocolatier. to you in your new project. I wish you loads of success and hope
At the time of our last meeting I was a mere adolescent and you are already working on your next book that will continue to
his impressive chocolate sculpture displays at “Euroba” will be educate and inspire new generations of chocolatiers.
forever engraved upon my memory and were the inspiration Congratulations Mr Chocolate!’
of my vocation as a chocolatier. His chocolate sculptures are
delicate and fleeting masterpieces, expressions of art based on Ramon Morató Parés
sweetness and contrasts, admired by amateurs and profession- Barcelona, Spain
als alike.
During our meetings Jean-Pierre introduced me to the
brotherhood of which he was a product, the Richmond Club
of Belgium whose members included the elite of Belgian patis-
siers. These individuals, whom I longed to emulate, not only
provided a range of extraordinary know-how but also presented
a noble and passionate vision of the trade. This was based on
continually evolving creativity and respect for the artisan’s craft
– something I still defend with the same gusto to this day.
Jean-Pierre Wybauw is much more than a mere represent-
ative of this elite. He is, most definitely, a figurehead since his
talent and love of the profession continue to be an example
for new generations of chocolatiers, keen to learn and discover
the alchemic secrets of this wonderful trade. Because of his
modesty, listening skills and accessibility for young up and
coming talent, Jean-Pierre Wybauw could be considered an
open book on the profession of chocolatier.
12

‘Jean Pierre Wybauw is one of the world’s greatest chocolate ‘In Fine Chocolates, Chef Jean-Pierre Wybauw not only
specialists, in the knowledge of material, production and the provides his readers with recipes, he also shares the concepts,
way of treating it, as well as in the diversity of the chocolate techniques, and technical knowledge they need to create
and its application techniques. His knowledge on the subject is unique chocolates of their own. It is a book unlike any other
no less than impressive and all his publications on chocolate that makes the unlimited world of chocolate confectionery
to date fully support this statement. This new volume of accessible to his international audience.’
Fine Chocolates only confirms this rare and unique knowledge
of chocolate acquired over the years. In it, Jean-Pierre Wybauw Sébastien Canonne
remarkably puts into practice his technical and creative back- MOF The French Pastry School
ground, with at the same time, an in-depth look at flavours
and flavour associations. I am delighted to be able to show
my admiration in this preface and hope that he will continue ‘Thank you, Jean-Pierre Wybauw, for sharing more of your
on this path of excellence that he mapped out, as required by endless knowledge and unchallenged skills. You have once
our profession.’ again enriched the art of confectionery for thousands of
professionals and enthusiasts alike all over the world. This new
Pierre Hermé edition effectively documents how to use flavours, enhance and
Paris combine them, and most importantly, how to create individually
characteristic chocolates. It is like bringing colour and light into
darkness! This book truly is an indispensable companion to your
‘At the end of November 2003 Jean-Pierre mentioned to me previous copies, which will never collect dust.’
that he was finally going to write his own book, an idea that
had occurred to him many years before. I knew straight away Ewald Notter
that this was not going to be just another book, one of the USA
many already dedicated to chocolate. Those of us who know
him, and his struggles between various exhibitions, are also
familiar with his knowledge, composure and professionalism, ‘Finally, a book about chocolate that is an indispensable tool
which are equalled by his passion for his vocation. for all chocolatiers, both beginners and professionals. While
Specialisation, perspective, technique, functionality and ra- working with chocolate seems fun and easy, an in-depth
tionality in particular (all qualities that define him as a person) knowledge of the chemistry of chocolate is essential to achieve
must have been on his mind even before he had written his a consistent, smooth and delectable product. The composition
first word. As you will see it is an inexhaustible source of ideas of raw products is explained so that you will be able to
and will be appreciated by those who, like me, are looking for formulate your own chocolate candy recipes. This chocolate
something more than just recipes in a book.’ bible provides the answers to all your possible troubleshooting
questions.’
Albert Adrià
Spain Chef Jacquy Pfeiffer
The French Pastry School
 13

A few sweet impressions by the world’s great masters

‘This book is an excellent tool and guide for all enthusiasts who ‘Dear colleagues,
want to work with the splendid substance that is chocolate. It It is a great honour for me to preface this new book by
is also an accomplished masterpiece as a record of Jean-Pierre’s Jean-Pierre Wybauw. Jean-Pierre, to me is ‘Mr Chocolate’,
entire career – the career of a discrete, humble and passionate a true globe-trotter who never tires of sharing his passion
professional. I hope this book will help its many readers to find and knowledge. A true walking encyclopaedia on chocolate,
solutions to the countless questions they are likely to encounter Jean-Pierre has contributed significantly to the world of
along their professional paths. modern chocolate-making. Our amazing profession of
I can only recommend that those who love to work with Pâtissier/Chocolatier needs distinguished professionals like
chocolate consult it regularly and would like to send my him to continue to exist and progress. Thank you Jean-Pierre
heartfelt congratulations to its author!’ for your work. I wish you lots of well-deserved success for
this new book, which undoubtedly will not fail to give rise
Marc Debailleul to new callings among our young professionals.
MOF France With all of my gourmet friendship.’

Chef Stéphane Glacier

‘At last a book that professional chocolatiers can call their own. MOF France
Jean-Pierre Wybauw, otherwise known as Mr. Chocolate,
has come through with the ultimate text on chocolate. I find
myself very fortunate being able to scan through the pages of ‘Chocolate has been inspiring the world for hundreds of years.
Mr. Wybauw’s life long experience. With each page comes a It is among the luxury foods that speak most to the imagina-
wealth of information from the basics of chocolate to the in tion. For some the passion for chocolate is so strong that they
depth interactions of ingredients within a ganache. The photos make it their profession.
are stunning and the information is laid out in a clear, concise Jean-Pierre Wybauw is such a professional, who seems to
manner. This is one of the few books that will remain at my have liquid chocolate rather than blood running through his
bedside and upon my work bench.’ veins. The man embodies chocolate!
During the National and World Party Team Championship
Thomas Gumpel in the US, I got to know Jean-Pierre as a modest, quiet profes-
USA sional who prefers giving to receiving. This wonderful book is a
good example of this.
The best way to thank Jean-Pierre for all his knowledge and
‘Finally, a book that is both attractive and technical....an indis- energy is by using and consulting his book extensively. If the
pensable tool to help professionals understand and master the pages are “soiled and thumbed” by chocolate fingers after some
complexity of chocolate. Jean-Pierre shares his passion and the time, it will be the silent testimony to this book’s value.
knowledge of a long career. I highly recommend it!’ Jean-Pierre, congrats and thank you!’

Jacques Torres Rudolph van Veen

New York The Netherlands
1
The base
ingredients  15 / about tasting  21 / aromas and flavours  23 / potential flavourings  25 / 
flavour combinations  31 / Herbs, spices and fruits  33 / flavours and trends in the use of salt  40 / 
Precrystallising  42 / ganache  54 / shelf life  81 / impoved shelf life in pr actice  85 / 
The use of alcohol in recipes  89 / Processing sugar  98 / miscellaneous to get started on your own  105
ingredients

15

the base - ingredients

Each ingredient has its own specific characteristics.
Some ingredients protect the recipe against drying
or extend its shelf life.
When various ingredients are combined in a
recipe, some blend well but others, such as fats
and water, do not.
Recipe creators should understand the charac-
teristics of their ingredients and ensure that the
recipes are based on a ‘good marriage’.

Cacao ingredients
Chocolate

Chocolate is a dispersion of fine particles of

solids (cocoa, sugar and milk powder) in cocoa
butter. The term ‘chocolate’ must meet legal re-
quirements, but almost all countries have their
own standards for chocolate. Furthermore, in-
ternational standards are laid down by the Food
and Agricultural Organisation of the United Na-
tions (fao) and the World Health Organisation
(who) in the Codex Alimentarius. That is why it
is not relevant to give figures. Roughly speaking
all dark chocolates contain at least 30-35% co-
coa components, and at least 18% cocoa butter.
A quality reference contains at least 26% cocoa
butter. Chocolate coating at least 31%. Milk
chocolate contains 20-25% cocoa components.
Milk chocolate also contains milk fat, i.e.
the total of cocoa butter and milk fat. This is
why household milk chocolate should contain a
total of at least 25% fat. Milk chocolate coating
a total of at least 31% fat. White chocolate con-
tains at least 20% cocoa butter and 12-14% milk
components.
 Because of the high cocoa/butter ratio the name for milk chocolate
‘couverture’ refers to quality aspects that result in: • Dry cocoa components give the chocolate fla-
• Better melting in the mouth. vour.
• More pleasant and richer experience • The sugar makes the recipe sweeter than when
(not as dry). using dark chocolate, since the strong and bit-
• Better snap. ter cocoa taste is significantly toned down by
• Higher degree of liquidity upon processing. the high milk content.
• Higher cost price. • Milk fats influence the structure: they create a
When putting together recipes in which choco- smooth effect, since milk fat is much smoother
late is processed, some factors need to be taken than cocoa butter.
into account. • The behaviour of cocoa butter is very much
16 influenced by the blending of various fats.
for dark chocolate
• Dry cocoa components give the (bitter) choco- for white chocolate
late taste and colour. • Sugar determines the sweetness of the recipe.
• The sugar in the chocolate makes the recipe • Milk powders create a full, creamy flavour.
sweeter. • The combination of cocoa butter and milk fat
• The cocoa butter determines the firmness of give a smooth effect.
the ­centre. • The behaviour of cocoa butter is very much
influenced by the blending of various fats.

Consequently, the choice of chocolate is not the

only important factor, the amount of cocoa but-
ter the chocolate contains is also significant.
The chocolate not only acts as a flavouring
but, more importantly, determines the texture.
Because of its high cocoa butter content it is best
to use high-fat chocolate (couverture). For a high
quality ganache a total fat content of approxi-
mately 40% is recommended. This is why cream
is used as a liquid in most ganaches, although
other liquids, such as infusions, coffee and li-
queurs may also be used. In these cases the fat
content must be complemented by adding butter
or a vegetable fat.

for example
• Hazelnuts contain approximately 64% oil
• Standard dark chocolate contains approximate-
ly 35% cocoa butter
• Standard milk chocolate contains approximate-
ly 30% cocoa butter
• Standard white chocolate contains approxi-
mately 28% cocoa butter
• Praliné paste contains 50% sugar and 50%
hazelnuts

1000 g praliné mixed with 500 g dark chocolate

containing approximately 35% cocoa butter has
an attractive soft yet sliceable texture. 320 g nut
oil was mixed with 175 g cocoa butter.
With the use of 30% milk chocolate the butter fat Cacoa powder
contained in this chocolate is taken into account.
In order to obtain the same texture as with dark Cocoa powder is the (partially) dry substance
chocolate 60% milk chocolate must now be added that remains after separating cocoa butter from
to 1000 g praliné. When using white chocolate the cocoa mass. Cocoa powder is used for its taste
70% chocolate is added to 1000 g praliné. as well as its colour. There is a difference between:
• Low fat cocoa powder (contains approximately
­­10-12% cocoa butter).
Nibs • Whole cocoa powder (contains approximately
20-22% cocoa butter). American terminology
Nibs are cleaned cocoa beans, free from bacteria, differs from British terminology.
roasted and chopped into fragments. They have a • Alkalised cocoa powder (alkalising means 17
strong taste and add flavour and aroma to centres. making alkaline or neutralising sour taste). Al-
They are used in centres to give a crunchy effect kalising darkens the cocoa powder and makes

the base - ingredients

and give sweet centres a bittersweet balance. They it more easily soluble in a watery environment.
are also used for finishing. • Non-alkalised cocoa powder (makes creams or
ganaches curdle more rapidly).

Cacao mass or cacao liqueur

100% cleaned cocoa beans, free from bacteria,

roasted, broken and then finely ground. Since
cocoa beans are very rich in cocoa butter (ap-
prox. 55%) a very liquid, dark brown, bitter and
somewhat sour paste is obtained after grinding.
An ideal product to give a strong cocoa flavour to
centres, with little influence on texture.

Cacao butter

Cocoa butter is a product of the cocoa bean,

which can contain up to 55% cocoa butter. Taste,
odour, solidifying behaviour and hardness can
differ, depending on origin. This is how the taste
can vary from no cocoa taste (neutral) to palpable
cocoa taste and how Malay cocoa butter is notice-
ably harder than Brazilian butter.
Cocoa butter gives gloss, hardness and shrink-
age to the chocolate. The higher the cocoa butter
content in the chocolate, the more attractive the
appearance of the end product. When producing
pralines cocoa butter is used to:
• dilute the chocolate (for extra thin cover or
spraying with airbrush);
• harden centres, without making them sweeter
(as by adding chocolate);
• mix with fat soluble colouring agents (to colour
chocolate);
• protect marzipan against drying out (by cover-
ing with thin coat of cocoa butter).
 Sugars inhibiting and slowing down the crystallisation of
sugars. Glucose lowers the Aw value and imparts
Sucrose (sugar) aroma and colour when heated. Most frequently
used is glucose of:
Sucrose has a strong sweetening power of 100 and • 43° Baumé = 80% dry substance
provides a firm texture. It extends shelf life, but • 45° Baumé = 85% dry substance
has the property to crystallise (granulate) during
oversaturation. It also lowers the Aw value. Sucrose
is not soluble in alcohol. Since it is a cheap ingredi- Invert sugar (sometimes referred to as Trimoline
ent, it lowers the cost price of the product. When in everyday language)
caramelised it imparts aroma and colour.
18 Invert sugar has a sweetening power of 125. Invert
sugar contains 50% dextrose + 50% fructose (on
Glucose syrup dry substance). It has the property of inhibiting
crystallisation and lowers the Aw value if not
Glucose syrup is a watery solution consisting of heated above 70°C (158°F). Invert sugar works
several sugars: glucose (dextrose), maltose, triose hygroscopically and is a desirable ingredient in
and higher sugars. From a chemical point of view, items with high water content, which must remain
glucose is dextrose, but in everyday language it is soft during storage. Any excess can nonetheless
referred to as glucose syrup. It has the property of lead to stickiness and syrup separation. Up to 25%
will typically yield a good result. When heated it
imparts aroma and colour.

Sorbitol (E420)

Sorbitol has a sweetening power of 50. The dosage

is 5 to 10%. Its use is regulated in some countries.
Sorbitol comes in two forms: powder and con-
centrated (70% dry substance). It has the property
of inhibiting crystallisation and has a preserving
and stabilising effect. Sorbitol also lowers the Aw
value and works hygroscopically. Sorbitol is a lim-
ited moisture stabiliser, which prevents drying. It
has a cooling effect on the tongue. This sweetener
tolerates high temperatures, but discolouration oc-
curs (brown) between 150 and 70°C (302–338°F).
Sorbitol is highly stable for acids, enzymes and
temperatures to 140°C (248°F).
Dairy products lard reaction and leads to a very fine caramel-like
and creamy aroma. Crumb composition varies
Cream from company to company. A global composi-
tion is 53% to 58% sugar(s) and 32% to 38% milk
Cream is a fat emulsion in water. Cream has a fat components, 5% to 14% cocoa mass. Crumb has a
content from 30% to 40% and consists of approx- high milk fat content.
imately 60% t0 70% water. The average composi-
tion for 100 g cream is: 57.71 g water, 2.05 g egg
whites and 37 g butter fat. The remainder is made Blok milk
up of carbohydrates.
Its high water content gives cream mixtures Blok milk powder is version of crumb. It consists
an airy, smooth texture, but also results in a fairly of condensed milk in which sugar is dissolved 19
short shelf life of approximately one week. Com- and that is dried and ground under low pressure.
bined with the correct ingredients shelf life can It is made up of 50% milk and 50% sugar. By

the base - ingredients

be considerably extended. However, combined drying under low pressure the whole milk flavour
with the incorrect ingredients the texture changes remains.
after a short period (drying, recrystallising, mois-
turising).
For creating crèmes in this book, cream with a
40% fat content is typically used.

Milk powder

Milk powder gives milk chocolate and white

chocolate as well as centres a specific flavour. It is
prepared by removing water from the milk until
only dry substances remain. This takes place by
thickening (condensing), after which the result is
spray-dried or dried on heated rollers, also referred
to as hatmaker drying). Spray-dried milk powder is
preferable as it dissolves more easily and is finer.​
Whole milk powder contains maximum 5%
water, at least 25–30% fat and 70% fat-free dry
milk components. The average composition of
whole milk powder per 100 g is: 2.47 g water,
26.32 g egg whites, 26.71 g butter fat, 6.08 g ash
and 38.42 g carbohydrates (sugars). Low-fat milk
powder contains a maximum of 5% water and
minimum of 95% fat-free dry milk components.
The average composition of low-fat milk powder
per 100 g is: 3.16 g water, 36.16 g egg whites,
0.77 g butter fat, 7.93 g ash and 51.98 g carbohy-
drates (sugars).

Milk crumb

Crumb is produced in accordance with a special

drying process whereby sugar and potentially
cocoa mass is added to the milk. This is generally
condensed and dried in a vacuum oven con-
densed and dried, which results in a strong Mail-
Aw: 0.84 Aniseed truffles
recipe % method
350 g cream 35% 27.56 • Bring the cream, glucose and honey to the boil.
40 g glucose 3.15 • Cover and leave to cool to approximately 30°C (85°F).
80g honey 6.30 • Soften the butter in a mixer (KitchenAid) and add the cream mixture
130 g butter 10.24 while stirring.
630 g dark chocolate 49.61 • Fold in the precrystallised chocolate and blend into a homogeneous, 187
40 g anise-flavoured liqueur smooth mass.
(such as raki or ouzo) 3.15 • Lastly, stir in the liqueur.

Recipes - truffles
Batch size: 1270 g finishing touch
• Pipe your choice of oval or spherical truffles onto a Silpat mat or fat-free paper.
To do so use a 8-mm smooth tip.
• Leave to crystallise in the refrigerator for a few hours.
• Dip in dark or milk chocolate and roll in the decoration of your choice.

yield
approximately 200
 Aw: 0.82 Praliné ganache
recipe % method
500 g cream 33.33 • Combine the praliné with the chocolate. Bring the cream, the glucose
100 g glucose 6.67 and potentially the pepper, to the boil and pour over the chocolate drops.
500 g praliné (50/50) 33.33 Allow the mixture to cool.
300 g milk chocolate 20.00 • Fill the moulds and allow the chocolate to harden. Pipe centres into
268 100 g dark chocolate 6.67 the chocolate shells using a smooth decorating tip. Allow to slightly crust.
black pepper, as needed Seal the shells with chocolate.
Batch size: 1490 g

yield
approximately 235
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text Jean-Pierre Wybauw

photography Frank Croes, Tony Le Duc and Serdar Tanyeli
layout Keppie & Keppie
translation Lyrco

If you have observations or questions, please contact our editorial office:

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© Lannoo Publishers, Tielt, Belgium, 2016

D/2016/45/542 – NUR 440
ISBN: 978-94-014-3342-6

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