Contents

An Alternative TrickleDown Absorber...........................................................................................................3

Recommended tools: .................................................................................................................. 5

Materials:..................................................................................................................................... 6

Absorber Cutting List:.................................................................................................................. 7

Assembling The Frame: .................................................................................................................................8

Cutting the Roofing to size: ......................................................................................................... 8

Assembling The Trickle Tube:.................................................................................................... 16

Cutting and Installing the Acrylic Felt:....................................................................................... 17

Applying the Mylar Inner Glazing: ............................................................................................. 19

Mounting the Trickle Tube Assembly:....................................................................................... 22

Photos of completed absorber:................................................................................................. 23

An Alternative Collector Frame:................................................................................................................. 25

The Materials and Tools Needed: ............................................................................................. 26

Cutting the Steel Rail to Length:................................................................................................ 28

Assembling the Collector Frame: .............................................................................................. 31

Attaching the SunTuff Outer Glaze: .......................................................................................... 34

Making and Installing the Drain: ............................................................................................... 36

References:................................................................................................................................................. 38

1
 Cost Estimate Table:.................................................................................................................. 38

Notes on material selection: ..................................................................................................... 39

Material Suppliers and Part Numbers:....................................................................................................... 40

McMaster-Carr .......................................................................................................................... 40

Home Depot - http://contractorservices.homedepot.com/..................................................... 40

Dick Blick Art Supplies - http://www.dickblick.com/ ................................................................ 40

Artist & Craftsman Supply – http://www.artistcraftsman.com/............................................... 40

Tuff-R Insulation ........................................................................................................................ 40

2
An Alternative TrickleDown Absorber
By: Richard Heiliger

In this section I will describe an alternative to the “Trickle Down Mat” (TDM), that John Canivan
uses in his Trickle Collectors. Material selection was based on surviving high stagnation
temperatures, and likely increasing the longevity of the unit. The costs are higher than the TDM
and it must be site built, as the shipping costs would be very high. Since John sells his TDM
premade and shippable in a small mailing tube, it offers the builder considerable time and
money.

This is a step by step pictorial of the tools, materials, and assembly of a trickle down absorber
frame made from galvanized steel roofing, drywall “J” end cap and “L” bead corners. The
assembly is pop riveted together and sealed with “Gutter Seal”, commonly used in sealing
gutters for the home. Acrylic felt is adhered to the galvanized steel roofing to distribute the
water evenly over the surface. An inner glazing of Mylar applied to this frame prevents water
vapor from condensing on the outer “Sun Tuff” glazing, resulting in heat loss and degradation of
the polycarbonate “Sun Tuff”.

Most anyone with some basic DIY experience should be able to construct this absorber with a
minimal learning curve. I would recommend that the experience of one unit be completed prior
to going into mass production. Minimize the total number of errors? If you are not familiar with
sheet metal fabrication, buy a good pair of gloves to minimize the use of the first aid kit.

Following the steps in the sequence outlined is the most efficient way to assemble the unit.

3
Exploded Cad Rendering of Absorber.

End Cap
Trickle Tube

Metering Tubes
45 Ell

“L” Bead Glaze Clamp Mylar Inner Glaze

90 Ell
EPDM Foam Glaze Seal

“J” Channel

4
Recommended tools:

Drill
1/8” bit
1/4” bit
Power Screw Driver
Hex bit for sheet metal
screws
Machinists Square
Sharpie Marker
Tape Measure
Sheet Metal Shear
Hack Saw and or Tubing
Cutter
Pop Rivet Gun
Propane Torch
Solder, Flux, Pipe cleaner
for copper pipe
Caulking Gun
Long Straight Edge
Scissors and/or Rotary
Cutter

5
Materials:

1 - 26”x96” Corrugated
Galvanized Roofing
2 - 10’ Drywall “J” Channel
2 - 10’ x ½” Drywall “L”
Corner Bead
1 - 10’x1/2” Copper Pipe
1 - 1/2”x45 Copper Pipe Ell
1 - 1/2”x90 Copper Ell
1 - 1/2” Copper End Cap
1 - 12” 1/8“ Brass Tube
1 - 100cnt Box 1/8” Pop
Rivets
1 - 100cnt Box #8 Sheet
Metal Screws
20’ ½” Double Sided
Neoprene Foam Tape
9’ x 40” 3mil Mylar or
Polyester Film
7 - 1/8” x ¼” Rubber
Grommets
4 - Nailing Mounts for ½”
Copper Pipe

6
Absorber Cutting List:

Part Material Length Width Quantity

Roofing Panel Galvanized Roofing 96 23 1/2 1

Side "J" Channels Drywall "J" Chanel 96 N.A. 2

End "J" Channels Drywall "J" Chanel 23.5 N.A. 2

Side "L" Bead Drywall "L" Corner 96 N.A. 2

Bead

End "L" Bead Drywall "L" Corner 23 1/2 N.A. 2

Bead

Water Dispersion Acrylic Felt 96 24 1

Mylar Seal EPDM Foam Tape As N.A. N.A.

Needed

Inner Glaze Mylar 10 feet N.A. 1

Trickle Tube 1/2" Copper Pipe 23 1

Trickle Feed Tube 1/2" Copper Pipe 93 1

Metering Tube 1/8" Copper Tube 1 1/2 7

7
Assembling The Frame:
Cutting the Roofing to size:

Since the roofing is 26 ½” wide and the inside

dimensions of the frame it needs to fit into is 24”,
the roofing needs to be cut narrower.
Using a machinists square mark a line to cut 1 ½”
in from each edge. Removing an equal amount of
material from each side will keep the corrugations
centered in the collector.

Use a sheet metal sheer to cut off the 1 ½” from

each side. This leaves a 23 ½” wide sheet. A
clearance of ¼” on either side to allowing the unit
to drop easily into the main frame of the
collector.

Cut a wedge off the bottom. I cut a triangle off

the bottom to match the slope of the drain
gutter it will be inserted into. Using a ¼” per foot
slope, that would mean marking ½” up what will
become the high side of absorber. Mark down to
the opposite corner. This ensures the absorber
will seat down into the bottom of the gutter.

8
To remove a bit of the bend in the
corrugation next to the edge, Use a piece of
hardwood on edge, and slide board along
and hammer the bend a bit more flat. This
will allow the “J” channel, attached in the
next step to sit square.

Flush a length of “J” channel with one end

of the roofing, mark and cut to length. Do
one for each side of the roofing.

Slide the “J” channel along with a length of

½” thick wood strip over the lip of the
roofing. Shown top side up in this photo.
The top side of the roofing will have a valley
in the very middle. Flip this over on the
table to allow drilling from the bottom side.
Place the wide flange of the “J” channel
toward what will be the bottom of the
absorber.

9
 Mark 1 ½” in from each end on the “J”
channel then mark on 6” intervals down
the rest of the channel. Set the machinists
square at ½” and mark the position of the
holes for the pop rivets. I prefer to mark
than to guess. Showing the bottom side of
the absorber, with the wide flange of the
“J” channel being marked.

Drill 1/8” holes for the pop rivets at the positions just marked.
Be sure the wood strip is in position and that you drill thru
both the “J” channel and the roofing. I use a couple clamps to
hold the roofing and wood strip completely seated into the
bottom of the “J” channel.

Before completely removing the wood

strip, put a pop rivet in each end hole,
and one in the middle. Then complete
putting in all the other pop rivets. Be sure
to get the rivet thru both the “J” channel
and the roofing before clinching the rivet.
Repeat for opposite side.

10
 What the absorber should look like at the
completion of the previous steps.

Beginning to lay out the hole positions for the trickle

tube. I found it simplest to drill the holes in the trickle
tube and the same time as the holes in the “J” channel
that forms the top of the absorber frame.

Cut off 22” of ½” copper pipe for the trickle

tube. Lay it across the top of the roofing. Set
o o
the 45 and 90 copper ells in position as
shown. Put a mark on the trickle tube at the
bottom of each valley of the roofing. This is
where the metering tubes will be soldered in.
Mark and cut off the trickle tube just past
where the last metering tube will be. Allow
enough for the cap.

11
Cut a 23 ½” long piece of “J” channel from
the remaining length cut off for the side
channels. Position at the end of roofing,
flush to the outside edges, of the side
channels on both sides. Again, put a mark on
the “J” channel at the bottom of each of the
7 middle valleys of the corrugated roofing.

Write “ELBOW” on the elbow end of both

the “J” channel and trickle tube so that they
can be properly oriented in this step.

Slip the trickle tube into the channel as

shown. Align the marks on the channel and
trickle tube. They will be drilled as a
matched pair. This way there will be no
problems aligning the metering tubes to the
holes in the channel that caps the top of the
absorber.

Clamp the tube and channel on the edge of a

table as shown. This keeps the trickle tube
and channel aligned while drilling the holes.

12
 Drill all holes 1/8” thru both channel and
trickle tube. Be sure to only drill thru
only one side of the trickle tube.

Remove the trickle tube from the channel. Re-drill the 1/8”
holes in the channel to ¼” . The outside diameter of the
grommets that will go into these holes is ¼”. The grommets
seal the metering tubes into the channel. The grommets also
prevent wearing holes in the metering tubes, and provide
isolation between the steel and copper, preventing galvanic
corrosion.

You can now put the top channel in

place. From the bottom drill 1/8” holes
in each end and pop rivet thru both
overlapping channels and the roofing.
Put additional rivets thru the channel
and the roofing where the valleys in the
roofing meet the channel, as shown in
photo. This photo is of the bottom of the
absorber.

Make another channel for the bottom of

the absorber with ¼” holes drilled the
same as for the top, but add two more
holes. One on each end, near the ends, to allow drainage of the very outside of the absorber, near the
side channels.

13
 This is what the inside of the absorber
should look like at the completion of the
above steps. Both ends will look the
same.

With the caulking gun put a heavy bead of “Gutter Seal”

along the joints between the “J” channel and the roofing.
Both sides and top and bottom. Put an extra heavy lump in
all corners as this is the only likely leak point. Using a half
inch acid brush wipe the beads of Gutter Seal well into all
the seams. The sealant sets quickly. So, do one side at a
time, wiping right after applying the sealant.

Gutter Seal has a very strong odor and

would recommend it being applied
outside or in a very well ventilated room
with no open flame or pilot lights for
furnace or water heater being lit. Try to
leave the holes in the top and bottom
channels as open as possible.

14
Insert the grommets into the holes in the
top channel while the Gutter Seal is still a
bit soft. Run a 1/8” rod thru the
grommets to make sure the holes are
free of Gutter Seal.

Now let this assembly sit for a few hours

while the Gutter Seal sets up. Overnight
is what I recommend.

15
Assembling The Trickle Tube:

Cut seven Metering tubes 1 ½” long

from the 1/8” brass tube. Insert a ¼” rod
into the trickle tube, to act as a stop
when inserting the Metering tubes. Slide
a Metering tube into each of the seven
holes drilled in the Trickle Tube. If they
are a bit tight, a very light tap with a
hammer will seat them down against the
¼” rod. Leave the rod in while soldering
the metering tubes to insure they do not
slip further into the Trickle Tube.

o o
I soldered the metering tubes then soldered the 45 and 90
Ells onto the Trickle Tube, making sure that they were at the
correct angles. Then, soldered the cap on the other end. Try
to leave an extra bead of solder around the metering tubes.
There is not much surface area for the solder to grab onto. I
would recommend brazing the metering tubes into the
copper pipe for a stronger joint.

Completed Trickle Tube with feed tube

added to the left side. Since most of the
feed and trickle tube are exposed to the
sun, they are painted flat black. A little
preheating of the feed water.

Run a 3/32 bit thru the metering tubes

after soldering to ensure no solder is
blocking the tube. This also removes any
burrs that formed when you cut them to
length.

Also, do a pressure test to ensure no leaks, prior to installation.

16
Cutting and Installing the Acrylic Felt:

Lay out the felt on a table to cut it to size.

The felt comes 36” wide. Cut off a length
a little over eight feet.

Cut this piece 24” wide. Keep the 12” you just cut off. You
can use two 12” wide pieces in one of the next absorbers
you build. Use an 8’ long scrap of straight board as a straight
edge. Use a circular fabric cutter to zip along the edge of the
board to make a nice even cut.

Lay the felt out evenly over the absorber

frame. Fold back one end about two feet.
Spray the exposed two feet of roofing with
a good brand of spray glue. Then roll the
felt back into the wet glue. Starting in the
center wipe the felt into the glue and into
the valleys of the roofing, then move out
one row of corrugations and press it down.
Repeat till at the edge. Tuck any little extra
felt down under the lip of the “J” channel.

17
 Now fold back the other three fourths of the felt
back over the two feet you just glued down. It is
easier to glue the felt down a couple feet at a
time. It also seems to work better if the glue is
still wet when the felt is pressed onto it. Spray
the next two feet. Fold the felt down onto the
wet glue. Again, starting in the center, press the
felt down into the glue with the flat of your
hand, working your way from center to the
outside. Repeat until you reach the other end of
the absorber.

When you reach the end trim off the excess. Tuck the
end under the “J” channel.

This is what the absorber should look like after

gluing the felt onto the galvanized roofing.

18
Applying the Mylar Inner Glazing:

Stick the 1/8” thick, ½” wide double sided

neoprene tape to the top of the “J”
channel, around the entire perimeter of the
absorber. Be sure to very slightly overlap at
the corners to ensure a complete vapor
proof seal between the frame and the
Mylar.

Remove the paper backing from the foam tape on half of

the absorber. Roll out the Mylar from the opposite end to
just before where you removed the paper backing from the
tape. Straighten the Mylar and make sure it is straight with
the frame. Carefully roll the Mylar onto the sticky tape all
the way to and past the end of the frame. With a scissors
cut off the roll of Mylar a foot or two past the end. Do not
use a knife, it will allow the Mylar to tear.

Using the roll of Mylar, roll the other end

of the Mylar back onto the roll. Roll back
until you are back to where the Mylar is
already stuck down. Remove the paper
backing from the other end of the frame.
Then roll the Mylar back onto the sticky
tape to the other end. This will leave you
with a nearly wrinkle free film of Mylar on
the frame.

19
 This is what the absorber should look like
at this point.

Mylar is pretty strong, but minor holes or

tears will allow it to tear very easily. Be
very careful not to puncture or tear the
Mylar. Any hole will eventually propagate
across the entire sheet. If you do put a
hole in it you must start over with a new
sheet. The double sticky tape will likely
need replacing as well.

Cut two 23 ½” lengths of the “L” bead. Mark the centers of

the holes for the Metering tubes. The “L” bead has a ½” lip
and a ¾” lip. The ½” lip is to be the top. Measure up about
3/8” from what will become the bottom of the “L” bead.
Drill a 1/8” pilot hole and drill it out to 3/8”, to fit around
the grommets for the metering tubes.

Cut another 23 ½” length of “L” bead for

the bottom of the absorber, and drill the
3/8 holes to allow the drain holes in the
bottom of the frame to show thru, and
allow the water to drain. Check to make
sure that the drain holes have not
become clogged with Gutter Seal.

20
 I cut “V” shapes in the lip of the “L” bead
to make it a bit easier to screw the bead
onto the frame. I used the #8 x ½” sheet
metal screws and a power screwdriver
to put in the screws. Be extremely
careful not to let the driver and screw to
slip. Remember a slip and a hole means
starting over. I use a two handed grip
with fingers wrapped around the screw
and driver bit. Also, only put screws in
where the roofing panel has dips.
Putting a screw thru where the roofing
panel meets the channel will result in a
hole and a leak. Apply the “L” bead to
the bottom of the absorber as well.

Use two lengths of the “L” bead to secure the outside edges of
the Mylar to the frame. Mark out 6” increments along the “L”
bead. Make sure the “L” bead is pushed up against the edge of
the channel. I put a screw one inch from each end, then one in
the middle. Put in the rest of the screws on the 6” interval.

21
Mounting the Trickle Tube Assembly:

I used nail up type clips for ½” copper tube

to mount the Trickle Tube assembly to the
absorber frame. Remove the nails and drill
out the nail holes to fit #8 sheet metal
screws.

Slide the Metering tubes into the grommets. You can see
the Metering tube in the upper right of this photo.

Note that by using this method the trickle tube may be

easily remove for cleaning any debris from the metering
tubes.

Remove one of the screws holding the “L”

bead and screw one of the clips in place of
the screw removed. Choose a length of
screw that will just barely go thru the “J”
channel and not thru the bottom of the
absorber frame. Using too long a screw
will result in a leak. I used 3 clips, one at
top and bottom. The other centered on
the frame.

22
Photos of completed absorber:

23
24
An Alternative Collector Frame:
This collector external frame is made from galvanized Steel Stud Rail. It uses no wood framing
components other than a thin strip to act as a side seal for the Sun-Tuff outer glaze. A stiff foam weather
strip may be substituted for the wood strip.

Exploded view of the components used to assemble the frame. See Cutting List for proper dimensions

Stud Rail for Top

PolyIso Top Insulation

Stud Rail for Sides

PolyIso Side Insulation

PolyIso Back Insulation

25
The Materials and Tools Needed:

Tools:
Circular saw
Power Screw Driver
Square
Sheet Metal Shear and/or Aviation
Snips
Tape Measure
Sharpie Marker

Materials:
Steel Stud Rail
Angle Brackets
Sheet Metal Screws
Tuff-R Insulation Board
2” ABS Pipe

26
Cutting List:

Cut the Top, Bottom, and Sides from the 10’ lengths of Steel Stud Rail.
Cut the PolyIso Parts from 4’ x 8’ sheets of Tuff-R.
You will need three sheets of Tuff-R to make two collectors.
From each Tuff-R sheet cut off three 26” x 48” panels for the Back Insulation.
Cut the remaining 18” x 48” piece into six 2.5” x 48” pieces for the Side and Top Insulation.
Cut one of the back panels to 46” in length for the Lower Back Insulation.
Cut two of the 2.5” pieces to 46” in length for the Upper Side Insulation.
Cut one of the 2.5” pieces to 24” in length for the Top Insulation.

Part Material Length Width Quantity

Top and Bottom
Rail 3 5/8" Steel Stud Rail 26" NA 2
Side Rail 3 5/8" Steel Stud Rail 94" NA 2
Top Insulation 1" Tuff-R PolyIso 24" 2.5" 1
Upper Back
Insulation 1" Tuff-R PolyIso 48" 26" 2
Lower Back
Insulation 1" Tuff-R PolyIso 46" 26" 2
Upper Side
Insulation 1" Tuff-R PolyIso 46" 2.5" 2
Lower Side
Insulation 1" Tuff-R PolyIso 48" 2.5" 2

Using these dimensions will result in a frame that is 26” wide and 94” long. If you made the Absorber 96”
long it will protrude out the slot in the bottom by about 4”. When making the Absorbers allow for the
required ¼” per foot slope the drain gutter must have. For example, the Absorber that will be next to the
drain will be the full 96”. The next one will be 95 ½” long, the next 95”, the next 94 ½”. In this design I do
not recommend more than 4 collectors being drained by a single gutter.

27
Cutting the Steel Rail to Length:

Measure up 26” on both lengths of stud

rail. Mark square lines to cut on across
top and sides.

Measure up the length of the Tuff-R 26”

and clamp a straight edge in place to guide
the saw. Cut off three 26” x 48” pieces
from the 48” x 96” sheet of Tuff-R.

You will end up with three 26” x 48” pieces and six 2.5” x 48”
pieces of Tuff-R.

This allows three sheets of Tuff-R to make two collectors.

Cut these pieces to the lengths show above in the cutting list.

28
Bottom Stud Rail Cutout:

Cut a slot in the

Bottom Steel
Stud Rail for the
end of the
Absorber to
protrude thru.
1 ¼” high, 1” up
from bottom, 1”
in from each
end.
Cut a hole for the Trickle Feed Tube to come thru.¾” in diameter, ¾” down from top and 1 ½” in from
side.

Layout the dimensions above on one of the 26”

pieces of stud rail. Mark a center line and cut
down to the opposite end with aviation snips or a
jig saw. Nip the 45 degree angles out to the
corners on each end.

29
 I used a welder’s sheet
metal clamp to start to
fold the slot.

Then hammer the fold down flat. This covers

the sharp edge, preventing punctures in the
Mylar inner glaze on the Absorber.

30
Assembling the Collector Frame:

I put a small bead of Tub Surround

adhesive on the joint between the
two back insulation sections.
Mainly to prevent air drafts from
creeping thru. Use an adhesive that
says it is compatible with foam
board. Some adhesives will melt
the Tuff-R insulation.

Slide the stud rail and back Tuff-R insulation into place.
Put a pop rivet into the top corners. Then push the 2½”
side insulation into place in the stud rail sides. Then
press the single piece of 24” long top insulation

. Friction is enough to hold the

insulation in place. The Absorber will
hold it all in place after you install it.

31
 Use sheet metal screws to
attach the angle brackets
to all four corners of the
frame. The bottom two
brackets will need to be
trimmed a bit so as to not
lap over the slot for the
Absorber to protrude
thru.

A demo of how strong and ridged the collector

frame is. About 18” of the 94” long frame is
clamped to the table at one corner. The
remainder is hanging, cantilevered off the end
of the table.

32
 A series of pictures showing the
absorber inserted into the frame. Tilt
the Absorber and slide the bottom
thru the slot, guiding the trickle feed
tube as you go. Not shown but need
is a large grommet in the hole for the
trickle feed tube.

33
Attaching the SunTuff Outer Glaze:

Cut the SunTuff foam end

seals to 26” and lightly
glue them into place on
each end of the Collector
frame.

Rip two ½” thick strips of

wood from 2 x 2 stock.
Rip a 60 degree angle on
one edge to match the
SunTuff corrugations.
Lightly glue them in
place.

34
Set the Suntuff Gazing on
and screw down with roof
panel screws, made for
metal.

Evenly space about 6

screws down each side. I
recommend putting a
screw in each dip in the
SunTuff across the top
and bottom to make a
good seal.

35
Making and Installing the Drain:

Layout for the Gutter Drain.

Cut a 26” length of 2” ABS pipe.

I made the pictured jig to rout the slot in the pipe. It is

just two 26” long pieces of plywood tacked together.
Cut a slot with a jig saw to match the above pattern
dimensions.

Use a bit with a top pilot bearing. The

slot cut with a jig saw can then be the
same size and the slot required.

36
 Completed Drain Tube for
one Collector.

Gutter Drain tube slide up onto end of Absorber

that protrudes out the bottom of the Collector
frame.

37
References:
Cost Estimate Table:
Steel Absorber Cost
Material Purchase Quantity Quantity Cost Required/Absorber Cost/Absorber
Galvanized Roofing 1 $8.79 1 $8.79
Drywall J Channel 1 $1.59 2 $3.18
Drywall L Bead 1 $1.75 2 $3.50
1/2" Copper Pipe 1 $9.19 1 $9.19
1/2" Copper 90 1 $0.45 1 $0.45
1/2" Copper 45 1 $0.45 1 $0.45
1/2" Copper Cap 1 $0.40 1 $0.40
1/8" Brass Tube 15 $16.70 1 $1.11
1/8" Pop Rivets 100 $4.26 50 $2.13
#8 Sheet Metal Screws 200 $4.67 40 $0.93
Double Sided Foam Tape 75 $10.30 25 $3.43
3mil Mylar 50 $33.02 9 $5.94
1/8" x 1/4" Grommets 200 $5.62 7 $0.20
Copper Pipe Clips 10 $3.65 3 $1.10
Total Cost/Absorber $40.81

Steel Collector Frame Costs

Material Purchase Quantity Quantity Cost Required/Frame Cost/Frame
Steel Stud Rail 1 $2.81 2 $5.62
Angle Brackets 1 $0.72 4 $2.88
Tuff-R Insulation 1 $22.54 1.33 $29.98
#8 Sheet Metal Screws 200 $4.67 32 $0.75
1/8" Pop Rivets 100 $4.26 8 $0.34
SunTuff Roof Panels 1 $17.98 1 $17.98
Glaze End Seal 5 $6.99 2 $2.80
Glaze Side Seal 1 $1.75 0.5 $0.88
Roof Panel Screws 50 $3.98 20 $1.59
2" ABS Drain Pipe 1 $4.73 0.25 $1.18
Total Cost/Frame $63.99

Total Cost/Collector $104.80

38
Notes on material selection:

All the metal parts should have a life expectancy in excess of 30 years.
o
The EPDM foam tape has a temperature rating of 170 . Since it is protected by the “L” bead it will perform
well in this application. The grommets are of the same material. EPDM is used as roofing and subjected to
very high temperatures and harsh conditions in that application.
o
The Mylar (Polyester) film was chosen for it temperature rating in excess of 300 and zero water
absorption. In the 3 mil thickness it is very strong. One can use thinner material if you are very careful
installing and handling the absorber during installation.
o
The Acrylic felt has a temperature rating above 250 . Its main purpose is to disperse the water evenly over
the entire surface of the absorber. I tested many materials and the Acrylic felt was the very best.

Tuff-R insulation is a product made by Celotex, and marketed by Dow. Other manufacturers of
Polyisocyanurate insulation are Atlas, and Firestone. Do not substitute Styrofoam insulation, it will melt
at the high temperatures in a stagnant collector, I know this from firsthand experience.

SunTuff polycarbonate glazing should be used. Any glazing used must have a UV protective rating of
100%. The Mylar used for the inner glaze is not UV tolerant and must be protected. Multiwall
Polycarbonate may be substituted at additional cost with little added benefit. Do not use PVC roofing
panels. They will not tolerate the UV or the high temperatures in the collector.
o
I tested all of the material is my oven at 250 for half an hour, before using them in the absorber.

39
Material Suppliers and Part Numbers:
McMaster-Carr - http://www.mcmaster.com/

Metering Tubes - ALLOY 260, ROUND TUBE, 1/8" OD, 1' LENGTH – Part Number 8859K19

Grommets - PUSH-IN BUNA-N RUBBER GROMMET, 1/8" ID, 11/32" OD – Part Number 9307K35

Double Side Tape - EPDM/SBR Foam Tape .125" Thick, 1/2" Wide X 25 Yards– Part Number 75315A32

Home Depot - http://contractorservices.homedepot.com/

Galvanized Corrugated Roof Panel – 26” x 96”

Drywall “J” Channel – 10 foot

Drywall “L” Bead – 8 foot

Pop Rivets – 1/8” Dia. 1/8 max thickness capacity

Gutter Sealant – 10 oz. Tube

Sheet Metal Screws - #8 x ½”

SunTuff Glazing – 26 x 96 panels

End Seals – 5 packs of 36” strips

Side Seals – 2 x 2 lumber or manufactured side seals

Steel Stud Rail – 3 5/8 x 10’

Roof Panel Screws – 50 and 250 count packages

2” ABS pipe

Dick Blick Art Supplies - http://www.dickblick.com/

Black Acrylic Felt – 36” by the yard – Order Number - 63201-2036

Artist & Craftsman Supply – http://www.artistcraftsman.com/

Mylar Inner Glaze - .003 mil Clear Polyester Drafting Film, 40”x50’ – Order Number - W015246

Tuff-R Insulation

I had a difficult time finding a supplier in my local area. Check with local lumber yards. Lowes may
carry it in some locations. Substitute manufacturers are – Atlas and Firestone.

40
41