Yarn 2011-24

Volume 11
The Australian magazine for knitting and more Issue 24

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• Problem solving • Annie Modesitt lace design

• Knit & Crochet skirts • Repurposed Knitwear
Yarn24 cover.indd 1 14/10/2011 7:03:13 PM
Fibre preparation made easy...
for all your spinning and felting needs
Drum carders - the quick, easy and fun way to blend colours, create exciting and exotic
fibre blends or prepare your fleece. Perfect for all your felting and spinning projects.
Available in 3 widths 10cm, 20cm or 30cm.
Extra W I D E Drum Carder WIN AN EXTRA

Features a 30 cm (12ins) width, WIDE CARDER
produces a massive 100gm (3½oz) details on page 27
batt and has a packer brush and
cleaning brush as standard.
Wild Drum Carder

Create unique blends by adding fibres, Standard Drum Carder
fabric, ribbons, feathers, noils, cocoons, Features a 20cm (8ins) width,
paper and more.... produces a 65gm (2¼oz) batt .
10cm (4ins) width, produces a 50gm Optional packer brush available.
(1¾oz) batt and has a packer brush and to fit all Ashford 20cm (8ins) drum
cleaning brush as standard. carders. (pictured left).
To find out more about Ashford fibres, carding and carding accessories contact one of these Ashford retailers
New South Wales Glenora Weaving & Wools Tasmania Jolly Jumbuk Country Craft Centre Hands Ashford NZ Ltd
Past Times Country Crafts P O Box 9 Tasmanian Wool Suppliers Pty Ltd P O Box 425 5 Normans Road
583 Snowy Mountains Hwy Gerringong, NSW 2534 58 Main Road Bairnsdale, VIC 3875 Elmwood, Christchurch
Cooma, NSW 2630 Ph. 02 4234 0422 Moonah, TAS 7009 Ph. 03 5152 4600 Ph. 03 355-9099
Ph. 1 800 026 397 christine@glenoraweaving.com.au Ph. 03 6278 1800 info@jumbukwool.com.au Fax 03 355-9099
orders@pasttimes.com.au www.Glenoraweaving.com.au Fax 03 6278 1808 www.jumbukwool.com.au hands.craft@clear.net.nz
www.pasttimes.com.au woolsuppliers@bigpond.com www.handscraftstore.com
Spun Out Spindrift Weaving Studio
Rainbow Wools (Carol Olde) P O Box 310 Victoria 273 Whorouly/Bowmans Road Ashford Craftshop
Ph. 04 2860 9140 Gulgong, NSW 2852 Whorouly, VIC 3735 427 West Street
Wondoflex Yarn Craft Centre
sales@rainbowwools.com Ph. 02 6374 1170 Ph. 03 5727 1528 Ashburton, Canterbury 7700
1353 Malvern Road
www.rainbowwools.com Fax 02 6374 1170 spindrift10@bigpond.com Ph. 0800 274-3673
Malvern, VIC 3144
spunout1@bigpond.com www.spindriftweave.com Fax 03 308 3159
Spinners Haven Ph. 03 9822 6231
sales@ashfordcraftshop.co.nz
enquiries@wondoflex.com.au
12 Laurence Aveune Western Australia www.ashfordcraftshop.co.nz
Armidale, NSW 2350 Queensland www.wondoflex.com.au
Bilby Yarns
Ph. 04 2864 2966 A/h. 02 6772 8795 Craft Haven Cnr Harrison & Hilary Streets Knit World Mail Order
spinnershaven@nsw.chariot.net.au Shop 2, 4 Swan Lane Belfair Sheep, Wool & Handcrafts Willagee, WA 6156 Ph. 04 586 4530
Mudgeeraba, QLD 4213 930 Baxter/Tooradin Road Ph. 08 9330 2388 Fax 04 586 4531
Virginia Farm Woolworks Ph. 07 55253222 Pearcedale, VIC 3912 bilbyarn@tpg.com.au sales@knitworld.co.nz
122 Annangrove Road Fax 07 55307999 Ph. 03 5978 6221 www.bilbyyarns.com www.knitworld.co.nz
Annangrove, NSW 2156
Ph. 02 9654 1069 South Australia Woolsy Trading Post The Yarn Queen
woolfarm@bigpond.com New Zealand
bellatextiles 142 Shannon Ave Online Knitting Store
www.virginiafarmwoolworks.com.au Woolrae Studio
Cnr Greenfield Road & Fowler Street Manifold Heights Servicing all New Zealand
534 Kihikihi Road
Seaview Downs, SA 5049 Geelong, Vic 3218 Ph. 07 376 5412
Petlins Spinning & Weaving Te Awamutu, Waikato 3800 sales@theyarnqueen.co.nz
Ph. 08 8296 3428 Ph. 03 5222 1571
17 Cavell Ave Ph. 027 4608 370 www.theyarnqueen.co.nz
info@bellatextiles.com.au
Rhodes, NSW 2138 Ph. 07 870 5340
Ph. 02 9736 1501 alrae2@xtra.co.nz
orders@petlins.com
www.petlins.com
Ashford Handicrafts Ltd, Ashburton, New Zealand www.ashford.co.nz
Yarn24 IFC.indd 1 14/10/2011 7:09:57 PM

A good idea begins with a good yarn
YARN Issue 24/December 2011

®
Co-editors and publishers

Kylie Albanese, Michelle Moriarty.
Consulting editors
Rose Long, Liz Haywood, Glenda Casey
Photography
Victoria from Essence Images pages www.
essence-images.com.au pgs 10-16, 22-32,
40-44, 47; Michelle Moriarty pgs 18-20,
38-39, 46; Amanda Keeys middle left
pg44 www.amandakeeysphotography.com;
If you are looking for some visual yarn candy, you can’t go past the new exhibition ‘Threads: Contemporary Textiles and the
Heather from Walker Photography left
Social Fabric’ on display at the Gallery of Modern Art (Brisbane) until Feb 5, 2012. Expect to see visually striking designs, skilled
pg28 www.walkerphotography.com.au;
techniques and richly textured surfaces. This image shows Ibe vakabati (detail) by Fijian artist Repeka Yali commissioned
Liz Haywood pgs 6-9. Melissa Stone pages
2005. The mat is woven voi voi (pandus) with commercial wool 178.7 x 272.7cm in the Collection of Queensland Art Gallery,
34-37 www.melissastone.com.au
but not on display in this Threads Exhibition. For more information visit www.qag.qld.gov.au/threads
contents
Contributors
Liz Haywood, Jude Skeers, Mae Eastman, issue 8
Margaret Miller, Glenda Casey, Christine Jones,
 Cast on  Patterns continued

Patrizia Steadman, Adeline Christie-Johnston,
Judy Blackburn, Ariel Roberts, Annie Modesitt,
Rommyna De Leeuw, Veronica Moschione, Editors’ notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Modular Scallop Skirt (multi-size)
Karen Richards, Helen Rippin.
Letters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Judy Blackburn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Layout & design: Book Reviews . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Pineapple Fields Mini Skirt Ariel Roberts . . . . 22
Kylie Albanese and Michelle Moriarty Lace Top Annie Modesitt. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Admin assistant  Columns Heidi Sun Kiss Bikini & Hat
Dawn Bordin Rommyna De Leeuw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Problem Solving Liz Haywood . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Advertising sales Tech Talk: Feather & Fan or Old Shale Vertical Eyelet A-Line Dress
& marketing: Michelle Moriarty Jude Skeers & Veronica Moschione . . . . . . 38
Jude Skeers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
thegirls@artwearpublications.com.au
02 6687 4002 Entrelac Mini Skirt Adeline Christie-Johnston . 41
 Features Reflective Tree Scarf Karen Richards . . . . . . 46

Published in Australia
Printed in China by Everbest Printing Co Ltd Garment Reconstruction Mae Eastman . . . . . . .44
 Cast off
Australian distribution by IPS Postcard from Cumbria Helen Rippin . . . . . . . 48
www.publicationsolutions.com.au Yarn Related Yumminess . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
New Zealand distribution by CRAFTCO Limited
YARN Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
 Patterns
Tel:+64 (0)3 963 0649
USA and Canada distribution Stitch Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
by DISTICOR Magazine Distribution Services Cupric Shawl Christine Jones . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Logo Listings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Tel: +905 619 6565
It’s in the (lace) Bag Patrizia Steadman . . . . . 12 YARN Classifieds. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
UK distribution by Manor House
Tel +44 (0) 1672 514 288 Aran Mini Adeline Christie-Johnston. . . . . . . 15 Advertisers’ Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Please address comments, letters, and inquiries to

thegirls@artwearpublications.com.au
or write to YARN Magazine, PO Box 238,
Lennox Head NSW 2478. Ph: +61 2 6687 4002
All contents © YARN Magazine 2011. The

purchaser of this magazine may make a single copy
Acknowledgements Thank you to our models Miriam Smith, Carlyie Clegg, Brooke Patterson, Hailey Mitchell, Petulia and Abby
of any pattern contained within for personal use
only. Please do not give copies to your friends. Wilson; to Victoria for her beautiful photography; to our husbands (see the Editorial) for believing in us; to our contributors for their
Contact us to talk about reproductions, including great work; to Kylie for her impeccable styling and to our readers and subscribers for supporting an Australian independent publication.
intended sale of items made from patterns within
this magazine. If you have any questions about
obtaining permissions or about this policy, please
contact us at the address above.
YARN ® is a registered trademark of Yarn

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 24 YARN 1
Magazine, Lennox Head, New South Wales.
Y24 contents pg 1.indd 1 14/10/2011 7:11:39 PM

editors' notes
the girls!
We thought we might start this editorial with a little story that has its beginnings (for us) in late
2007, when three total strangers met for the first time, uniting for a shared cause. It was pure
women-power at its best and it all started with Barbara Coddington’s Yarn issue 8 editorial. Barbara
needed to hand the reins to Yarn over. This is how Kylie and Michelle (the last two standing, as it
were) first met…at the photo shoot for Yarn 9, as we were too cash strapped to afford models (we
were the models in issue 9). We had just enough in the budget for a proper photographer and to pay
Michelle the designers and printers, but that was it. And so it began.
Over this period of time (2007-2011) Kylie has gained and lost 11kg (it is hard working in a home
office). She now has all three of her children in primary school and keeps up with the world via
facebook. Michelle has not gained or lost weight, but has broken her nose (very painful, but she did
not drop the project she was carrying through the school at the time) and has had several extensions
to her already extended family. Her oldest is going to High School in 2012. You can see our children
growing up on the pages, year after year. We have added new publications, including Felt Magazine
Kylie and Embellish Magazine, plus a book on Orizomegami, an instruction DVD on feltmaking with Fabrics
and three books are “in the works”. Can you tell that we enjoy a challenge?
Then we read this letter. “Congratulations on the continual expansion of your publication group. As a collector
of all the Textile Fibre Forum publications, (not quite there yet), I was thrilled at the prospect that you are in a
position that you will also be able to help out and continue the sterling work which Janet de Boer has initiated
and built up over the years. I do not think people of our interests actually realise how deeply indebted we are to
the initiative and commitment Janet has given and the outcomes of reaching out to isolated and lonely women by
her magazine and the introduction of the annual Textile Forums. She has opened the eyes of a vast community
in Australia, where friendships and acknowledgement/confirmation of individual skills and expertise have truly
blossomed.” This letter was sent to us by Jen McKinnon. We cannot stress how deeply honoured we are that Janet
approached us and how deeply appreciative we are of everyone’s ongoing support, especially when we receive a
letter such as the one Jen sent. She summed it up nicely and we all owe the Janet’s of this world a huge THANK YOU.
As we are coming into Christmas and the New Year, all of this reflection brings us in a circle back to our family
and friends and more particularly our husbands. Can you imagine two tradies after a long day, coming home to
still-working wives and in the case of Kylie, three children, and for Michelle, two children, food everywhere (or
even worse, bare cupboards), school bags scattered all over the floor and children needing to be taken to sport? If
you can imagine this, you will know how grateful we are to have encouraging husbands and understanding friends,
who become part of our wider community, as we watch other children and other Mums watch our children and
our tradie husbands help out other tradies at short notice and so life goes on. So, if you have spare moment, we
encourage you to take a step back, look at what you have, and be very thankful. Try to lend a hand without being
asked. Try to get involved in the local community. If you need help, try to ask for it. If you see a Mum struggling to
get her groceries, stroller and children down the stairs, help her. If you see someone looking lost, ask if they need
directions. We can all do so many simple things to make our communities a better place. Let’s try and make 2012
a good year for our families, our friends and our communities.
—Michelle & Kylie
THANK YOU
Thank you for sending in your letters. Each of you lovely ladies will receive a copy
of 200 Crochet Flowers, Embellishments & Trims by Claire Crompton, compliments
of Capricorn Link. We hope that the books will bring you many years of enjoyment.
The winner of the next editor’s prize will receive a copy of the scrumptious book,
Knit Noro. If you are a subscriber we’ll throw in some yarn as well. We’d love to hear
about which knitted (or crocheted) gifts you like to give (and/or receive).
2 YARN Issue No 24 www.artwearpublications.com.au
Y24 editors & letters pg 2n3.indd 2 14/10/2011 7:12:32 PM

letters
Sock Love
I was wondering about the next edition yesterday and it
was in my letterbox today! Thanks so much for the needles.
I’ve not long moved and not everything is unpacked. Last
week I really wanted short 2.75mm dpns. All I could find
were longer ones! Tonight I will swap these over as I’ve
not done much on the sock yet.
I came home feeling very flat after finalising my mother’s
estate, so these were a real lift.
Jan Bishop
Love for Liz

As a spinner of fine yarn I would like to thank you for the
“Getting started with Lace” article. I have been struggling
for a year and could not find any books on knitting lace for
beginners. Liz Hayward understands and makes it easier
to make sense of the directions. My first Lace Scarf is now
closer to being achieved. Great article!
Marion Geering
For the Love of Flowers

The book 200 Crochet Flowers will keep me busy for hours.
Although I knit a little bit…Of crochet is brainpower. So
please, girls, give me a prize. I would not believe my eyes.
A crocheted handiwork, to embellish my dandywork—
better than this knitted briar! Carolynn placed a chenille
flower in her “Letters to the Editor” envelope and added as
a post script: Sorry this rose is a bit squashed, but all is not
really lost. Give it a pull, to make it look full and it will look
great on your cloche.
Carolynn Murtagh
Metromatic Lamp Envy

My hands display the stories of decades: scars, blotches,
wrinkles, swollen knuckles, movements less agile. Fading
vision blurs the lines, and smudges the blemishes. In the
dim light, their youthful appearance reminding me of the
exquisite garments which I created decades ago—inspiring
me to create more, in the same standard of excellence.
Thank you again for the companionship of Yarn Magazine.
By the way, your editorial about colours was interesting
as I wear NO BLACK, just all rainbows of colours. I think
it’s a colourful country here in the Top End.
Mary T Wheaton
Love of Embellishing
I love to knit a rising sun because I spent ten years in
New Zealand; which I loved for its soft, lush green beauty,
but I missed Queensland’s sunny weather. I also love to
embellish hand knits with a flower. Just thinking about
the myriad colours that flowers come in make me want
to jump in and start knitting straight away. When I saw
your review on 200 Crochet Flowers, Embellishments &
Trims my breath quickened, it almost made my head
spin. I love your reviewer’s critique; she knows exactly
what we need to know about the book and whether it
addresses all the aspects that will make it an addition
or a tried and trusted reference book. I also love the
review of What would Madame Defarge Knit? I love classic
literature, knitting, and crochet so combining them all is
like having my cake and eating it also. Thanks for a great
Aussie magazine. Keep up the great work.
Suzette Woolley
Y24 editors & letters pg 2n3.indd 3 14/10/2011 7:13:17 PM

reviews
Little Red in the City as a top whorl. Thus you can spin singles one end and ply
them the other”. You can order the reverse if you prefer,
Ysolda Teague (ysolda.com/
so think carefully about whether you want a high or a low
patterns/collections/littlered/)
whorl for your singles. The low whorl spindle can be thigh
ISBN: 9780956525826 £17 digital
rolled because the leader is contained within the groove.
download
The plied test yarn is 18 wpi and Malcolm notes that the
Y
solda, an innovative young
An Ysolda Knitwear Collection
groove may be too large to contain an ultrafine thread.

Scottish knitwear designer
Both spindles were beautiful and a dream to spin
may already be known to some
with. If you are a beginner, there is a starter spindle so
of you. She is the designer behind
please learn on one of those first. Once you do, either of
the popular and oh so cute Whimsical Little Knits series.
these spindles will give you years of pleasure.
In this, her third self-published book, she has outdone
—Margaret Miller
herself. Little Red in the City is the book advanced
knitters have been crying out for. Full of information on
Textile Journeys
how to adjust patterns to suit your measurements and
body shape, Ysolda really has covered everything. Handweavers, Spinners & Dyers
You will find a multitude of formulae’s and calculations Guild of Tasmania Inc (www.
(have your calculator handy knitters)…if you are looking hwsdguildtasmania.org)
for a challenge that will result in a totally personalised ISBN: 9780987091598 RRP$30 plus post
jumper (sweater), one that fits your exact shape perfectly,
then Ysolda will hold your hand along that journey (that H aving been to the Bothwell
Spin-In and the Battery Point
branch with Mum (plus keeping
challenging and mathematical journey)!
Little Red in the City includes seven patterns for track of the Back to Back Challenge
women’s jumpers and cardigans, in Ysolda’s distinctive over the years and meeting some of the Guild members), I
style, most worked top down and seamless. All patterns feel an association with this book that many other out-of-
have extensive instructions with room to use all your state readers may not feel. Even so, you can feel the history,
new knowledge to customise the fit. Even if you don’t pride, time and care that have been put into the journal.
alter and customise the patterns, this book is still a Many community projects have been undertaken
treasure to have in your collection. and recorded by the Guild members, from making a
—Glenda Casey tapestry for the City of Launceston, to creating replica
prison uniforms for the Port Arthur Historic Site (again,
Malcolm Fielding Spindles having visited here, I found myself moved to tears, but
if you have not visited, the article may not have as much
(www.thelacebobbinshop.com) emotional involvement for you).
Models ds4hr & dscus RRP$60 Lambert the sheep helps out a lot, sprinkling
B
oth reviewed spindles were
well balanced, easy to set in
motion and made a good, long
Lambert’s Lore through the pages. Where Lambert has
a break, helpful Hints appear in a different coloured
font, and the hints are often a summary of what has
thread on a variety of fibres. The been discussed in depth in the proceeding paragraphs.
superb design and finish enhanced Chapters include information on: material selection,
the beauty of the timber, and their sorting, cleaning and preparing a fleece; different
performance as tools was excellent. fibre types and their best preparation and spinning
The Olivewood Top Whorl methods; choosing and maintaining a wheel (or spindle);
(dscus) spindle (approx determining the twist, ply and gauge of your handspun
28gm/23cm) has a silver asymmetrical hook. The plus how to spin; a little about spinning artyarns; some
simple threading instructions were very clear and must basic felting instructions including a good article on needle
be followed to avoid wobbles. The spindle holds a nice felting; some of the different loom types and weaves with
plump cop but I would like the shaft a little longer to lots of hints to get you started; projects and patterns (some
give my hand more room for a comfortable wind on. of which are vintage reproductions); knitting instructions
The Hybrid Spiral Reversible Spindle (approx (not photographed or illustrated, except for sock heels);
24gm/23cm) is Malcolm’s original design and once I good plant and commercial dye information and methods,
understood the principle it was a delight to use. For a including safe dyeing with children. To round it all off,
conventional twist yarn the spindle is used as a low whorl the journal finishes with Historical Records pertaining
for singles and as a high whorl for plying. Malcolm says to Cloth Manufacture in Tasmania. There are 166 spiral
in his packing letter, “The spirals are designed so that the bound pages with gloss cardboard covers.
spindle will need to spin clockwise (z twist) when used —Michelle Moriarty
as a bottom whorl, and the reverse direction when used
Y24 book reviews pg 4n5.indd 4 14/10/2011 7:14:15 PM

reviews
The Knitter’s
Book of Socks
Clara Parkes (Potter Craft/
Random House)
ISBN: 9780307586803 RRP$30
Sock lovers will salivate over

this one. Clara Parkes has
published some excellent books
recently, with the quality of
information being exceptional. The concept behind this
book was to explain why some yarns are better suited
than others to the high performance needs required to
make a durable, comfortable, pleasurable sock. Stitch
selection and sock construction methods are explained,
to get the ultimate elasticity, wear and moisture wicking
properties from each sock design.
The sockeratti have been called in, with luminary
designers such as Cookie A, Cat Bordhi, Nancy Bush,
Lucy Neatby, Ann Budd, Norah Gaughan and Sivia
Harding all contributing designs. All 20 of the designers
have serious stitch cred, some producing a couple of
versions of the same sock.
From simple indestructible stocking and slip
stitch designs to double knit colourwork, short rows
and wrapped stitches, lace, faux cables, real cables,
travelling stitches, cuff down, toe up—the whole gamut.
Each with a mention of what yarn type is best for the
design and why. To borrow a line from the Apollo 13
movie, “Failure is not an option”. Wendy Knits Lace
—Mae Eastman Wendy D. Johnson (Potter Craft/
Random House)
The Knitted Home ISBN: 9780307586674 RRP$22.99
Sian Brown (Guild of Master
Craftsman/Capricorn Link)
A n ever-popular style of
knitting, lacework often
evokes fear from knitters. We
ISBN: 9781861088079 RRP$29.99
seem to associate lace knitting
C
ables, colourwork, textured
stitches and lace are all
featured in fun, contemporary
with intricate shawls and �lowing
gossamer gowns, but Wendy is here to show us there’s
more to lace than that.
designs, with projects for all skill
Included patterns are practical everyday garments;
levels. There are 30 designs in all,
jumpers (sweaters), singlets, hats and socks, they are
broken down into categories that include Kitchen, Garden,
also whimsically pretty and lacy! An easy lace scarf
Nursery, Bathroom and Pirate Bedroom, to name a few.
knit with an 8 ply yarn sits next to a super�ine shawl
There are several projects that would be perfect
of knitted lace (explained in the book, as opposed to
as gifts for Christmas including cushion covers, bags
lace knitting, knitted lace has patterning on every row).
and throws, or for the kiddies, a butterfly & flower
Showing her super sock designing skills, there are three
curtain, a Humpty Dumpty toy tidy or a mobile with
gorgeous, vintage inspired lace socks.
three little pigs!
Talking technique, this book has some jewels. Unusual
—Mae Eastman
techniques like Russian joins and Russian cast-off’s are
Felt
included next to blocking tips, and essential lace tricks like
OUT lace cast-on and garter stitch tabs. You will also �ind pictorial
NOW! and written instructions for decreasing and increasing.
A book that is simple and complicated all in one, just
distribution through newsagents, select craft stores and guilds like lace knitting, and us knitters too!
(02) 6687 4002 or visit www.artwearpublications.com.au —Glenda Casey
Y24 book reviews pg 4n5.indd 5 14/10/2011 7:15:47 PM

Problem Running out of yarn
• Can you make the garment shorter, either in the
body or sleeves or both? Would ¾ sleeves, short
Solving sleeves or even sleeveless be ok? Could the jumper

become a vest and the shawl a caplet or scarf? Could
the hat become a headband?
By Liz Haywood
• If you can get more of the same yarn and the
There are lots of good feelings associated with a dyelots are almost a perfect match, you could
knitting project—falling in love with a new pattern, blend the two shades by working them in alternate
being inspired by a beautiful yarn (either in the shops rows for a little way. Alternatively, knit the back of
or in your stash), an enthusiastic swatch, the delight a jumper in one shade and the front in the other;
of yarn flowing through your fingers, watching the no-one looks at the back and the front at the same
rows add up pleasantly and the juicy anticipation of time. Another solution is to put a few rows of
casing off. purl or a small colour pattern where the colour
changes to fool the eye. You could try using the
Wait on...you’ve just started fantasising about the different dyelot for the ribbing or other parts with
compliments you’ll receive, when you realise it’s not a different texture. If you’ve already knitted the
turning out according to plan. Before you throw it to ribbing, you can undo that part (see further on for
the back of the cupboard in frustration, put it aside how), pick up the stitches, and re-work the ribbing
and have a think. Can you save it without undoing down in the different dyelot, giving you more of the
anything? Could it be changed into something else? It original yarn to finish the garment.
might not be what you were planning to make, but by • If you can’t get more yarn or a good match, how
using your imagination and creativity you could turn about introducing a new, co-ordinating colour?
it into something even better. Try socks with toes and heels a different colour, a
jumper with a contrasting yoke or hem, a blanket
Garment too big with a different colour border, cardigan with
• Make it a Christmas present for a bigger friend different button band, collar and pockets, etc (you
instead? get the idea). If you plan what’s left of your original
• Is it only a little too big? Can you take bigger side yarn carefully, it will look like you intended it
seams in? all along. A helpful design rule to follow here is
• Would some shape help? Try sewing some to match either the colour or the texture to the
decorative vertical tucks at the waist to bring it original, so that the new yarn has something to link
in. What about wearing the garment with a belt, it to the old one.
either knitted from the same yarn or purchased?
• Think you need to re-knit it? If it’s a cardigan, I was a fairly inexperienced and slow knitter when I
you may only need to re-knit the back. Take a knitted this jumper for my future husband in 1998. It
pleat vertically down the centre back and see was supposed to be all maroon, and although I bought
how many stitches are in it. Undo and re-knit the correct amount of wool,
the back, minus that number of stitches. Any after knitting the back I
excess length can be shortened (see further realised there wouldn’t be
on for how). If the front is too wide, consider enough to finish the front
changing the style to a shallow double breasted and sleeves. I decided to
or wrap around with a belt. If you need extra add some stripes, carefully
buttonholes, try Elizabeth Zimmerman’s calculated to leave me
afterthought buttonhole, or sew buttons over enough maroon wool to
giant press studs. finish the jumper. I laid
• If the yarn is hand wash only wool, you could out the finished back and
felt it (it won’t work for machine washable wool determined the stripe
or synthetics). Experiment with your swatch width and placement, then
to see (you did do one, didn’t you?). Felting treked back to the shop and
by hand will give more control than using the agonised over colours for
washing machine. It might be the right size the stripes. I was happy
once it’s felted, although it will be a different it turned out this way—it
kind of garment. Felted fabric can be cut was more interesting to
without ravelling, so you can trim the length, knit and I like it better with
cut decorative slashes, etc. stripes than plain.
Y24 Lace liz part 3 pg6.indd 6 14/10/2011 7:17:06 PM

Garment too short
• Is it only a little bit too short? You could stretch it
slightly by washing it and hanging it on the line (but
support the sleeves so they don’t get longer). Hang
it by the hem and use lots of pegs.
• If you have more yarn, you can knit more length (see
further on for how). If the jumper is patterned and
would be dif�icult to extend, consider widening the
ribbing instead.
Garment too long

• Cut and shorten the knitting (see further on for how).
• If the sleeves are too long, can you fold the cuffs back?
• If the body is too long, does it look better with a belt?
No Longer like the colour

• Can you �inish it off then dye it?
• If it’s Fair Isle or composed of several colours, can
you overstitch a small area with another colour?
Garment too small

• Change it to a Christmas present for a small friend
or child.
• Turn a jumper into a cardigan to give more width
across the front. Grit your teeth and cut the jumper
up the centre front. Add a button band in your
choice of width to each side, either by picking up
stitches or knitting them separately and sewing
them on. If you don’t have any more yarn, you could
use a perfectly matching fabric or ribbon.
• Turn the jumper into something else, like a bag or
a cushion.
• If the jumper has side seams, you could add some
interesting side panels to give more body width.
K2, p2 rib or some cables will disguise the seams.
If you haven’t knitted the sleeves yet, knit them
correspondingly bigger so they will �it into the new
bigger armhole. If the sleeves are already done,
extend the side panels to run up into the underarm
seam. Taper the panels to the wrist if required.
Owners of Elizabeth Zimmerman’s “Knitting Without

Tears” may recognise the two colour pattern from the
Ski Sweater in chapter 3. It began life as a vest for
me, but several inches in I realised it was going to be
waaaay too small. I was loathe to undo all that pattern
I’d so painstakingly knitted, so I cast off, then cut the
ribbing off the bottom. If I was smarter I would have
threaded the stitches onto a needle as described in this
article, because it took a long time to pick out the tufts
of wool and put the stitches on a needle. I grafted the
two sides together, added a lining and handles, making
a handbag instead. When I told my now-91-year-old
Knitting Powerhouse Grandma about it, she said “Oh
yes dear, when you knit with two colours it always pulls
in—you have to go a size or two up”.

look different if knitted circularly to knitted back
and forth, so make sure all the ribbing is done the
same way).
• Choose a springy yarn for garments with rib such as
wool rather than cotton.
How to undo knitting

You could just cut the knitting, pull out the scraps of
yarn remaining, then assemble the stitches on a needle,
but a faster and neater way is to put the stitches on the
needle first. Use a smaller size needle than the garment
was knitted on. Begin on the right hand side and take
the needle from right to left behind the right half of
each stitch until all the stitches are on the needle.
Slack or sloppy ribbing

• Ribbing with no “bounce” is more prevalent in non-
springy yarns like cotton.
For purl stitches, pull the rows of purl “bumps” apart

slightly to see the vertical part of the stitch sitting in
between the rows. Beginning on the right hand side,
take the needle from right to left behind the right half of
the vertical part.
• Thread some shirring elastic onto a tapestry

needle and, on the wrong side, pass it behind the
knit stitches in the rib and pull it up to give some
elasticity. You’ll probably only have a choice of black
or white elastic.
• If the neckline is made from folded-over-and-
stitched-rib, use the channel as a casing and thread
with 3mm or 6mm elastic to draw it up.
• Do you really want the ribbing? Undo it and knit
down to make a rolled stocking stitch hem, or finish
with a band of garter stitch.
• Fold under the ribbing so it’s half as wide, sew it
in place to make a casing, and thread some elastic To lengthen knitting
through (not the most elegant solution because Identify where you wish to lengthen the knitting,
it makes the garment shorter, but this could be and pick up two rows onto knitting needles, leaving
another problem solved). two rows in between. Cut the knitting between
Next time: the two needles, and remove the yarn back to each
• Use smaller needles for the ribbing, if you haven’t knitting needle. On the bottom piece, knit across
already. using the same size needles as the garment was
• Knit through the back loop of the knit stitches to knitted with. Continue working rows until you’ve
create a springier rib. It results in a rib with slightly added enough length, then graft the two pieces of
more texture. I knit all my ribbing like this (it will knitting together.

Sunspun
To shorten knitting
Pick up onto knitting needles above and below where
you wish to shorten the garment. Cut the first stitch
in the row just below the upper needle. Using a large
sewing needle, pull out the first row of stitches, then
unravel the remaining rows down to the lower needle.
Graft the two pieces of knitting together.
Sunspun
Ph: (03) 9830 1609
www.sunspun.com.au
Grafting ribbing or any patterned fabric can only be

done successfully if the two pieces have been knitted in
the same direction. In other words, you can graft the top
of one piece to the bottom of another, but not the tops
of two pieces together, because the pattern will be half a
stitch off. Stocking stitch or garter stitch can be grafted
together in any direction. In garter stitch, make sure you
start re-knitting on the correct side or you’ll have a flat
band of stocking stitch in the middle of the garter ridges.
See the Stitch Guide for Grafting (Kitchener Stitch).

Y24 Cupric Shawl pg10.indd 10 14/10/2011 7:20:47 PM

Cupric
By Christine Jones
Yarn Ecoyarns Qoperfina 50% Organic Baby Alpaca, 48%

Organic Pima Cotton, 2% Pure Copper Fibre (100g/3.5oz,
500m/550yds, equiv Aust 2ply, Lace weight)
Needles and notions 3mm (US 3) needles; stitch marker
Tension 27sts & 36rows to10cm (4inch) when blocked
Finished Measurements 175cm (59inch) long; width at
widest point 31cm (12inch)
Abbreviations pm=place marker; sm=slip marker; Free Pattern
RS=right side of work, flat with no purl bumps;
k2tog=knit 2 sts together; yo=yarn over; ssk=slip 2 sts
Simple Lace Cowl
kwise, one at a time, from left needle to right, then slide 50g skein of Angel Touch Organic Baby Alpaca
tip of left needle through front of the 2 sts from left to Colour is Naturally Dyed Be My Valentine
Available exclusively at
right and knit them together.
4mm circular needle (40cm long) or dpns
Pattern:
Cupric is Latin for ‘containing copper’. Copper has Cast on 90 sts, join in the round, being careful not to twist sts.
Round 1: K3, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4* repeat to last st, k1
long been regarded as having many health benefits, Round 2: K all sts
particularly when worn against the skin. Cupric Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until cowl measures 25cm from cast
is a lightweight wrap, perfect for when a little on edge. Cast off all sts loosely. Weave in loose ends. Block.
something is needed about the back & shoulders;
or draped around the neck like a scarf.
Written instructions for chart:

Row 1: K4, yo, K5, yo, K2tog, yo, K2
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 & 14: K2, purl to last 2 sts, K2
Row 3: K5, slip1, K2tog, psso, K2, (yo, K2tog) twice, K1
Row 5: K4, ssk, K2, (yo, K2tog) twice, K1
Row 11: K1, ssk, K2, yo, K1, yo, K2tog, yo, K2
Row 13: K1 (K3, yo) twice, K2tog, yo, K2
Wrap:
Cast on 16 sts.
Row 1: K2, yo, K1, pm, row 1 of chart A
Row 2: work row 2 of chart, sm, P2, K2
Maintain 2 garter stitches on edge, then work stocking
stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) to one stitch before
Chart Key / k2tog: knit two stitches
marker, yo, K1, slip marker, then work chart. Continue
z no stitch together
until 10 repeats of the chart have been worked [total \ ssk: slip, slip, knit
a knit on RS, purl on wrong
140 rows], increasing one stitch on RS row in stocking side slip 1, k2tog, psso: slip one,
stitch section as per Row 1 [86sts]. — knit on wrong side knit two stitches together,
Next section (worked straight with no increases): j yo: yarn over pass slipped stitch over
On RHS row: knit to 3sts before marker. K2tog, yo, K1,
slip marker, work chart. Continue for 25 pattern repeats
(350 rows) Cupric Schematic (when blocked)
Next section (work decreases):
On RHS knit to 4sts before marker, K2tog, yo,
K2tog, slip marker, work chart. Continue for
138 rows [17sts].
Cast off. Block to dimensions, pinning out lace
points, & weaving in ends.
Y24 Cupric Shawl pg10.indd 11 14/10/2011 7:21:31 PM

Y24 Red Lace Bag pg12.indd 12 14/10/2011 10:01:49 PM

It’s in the Bag
By Patrizia Steadman
Yarn Jo Sharp Soho Summer 100% cotton (50g/1.75oz,

100m/109 yds, 12wpi, equiv Aust 8 ply, CYCA #3, Double
Knit or Light Worsted) 4 balls Colour #221 Carmen.
Needles and notions Two sets 5mm (US 8) circular
needles (one 40cm in length and one 60cm in length); set
of 5mm (US 8) DPNs at least 23cm long; stitch marker;
stitch holder; 4mm (US 6 or G) crochet hook; set of
bamboo bag handles; ten decorative buttons; tapestry
needle; for the optional lining, thick cardboard 13.5cm
x 29cm (5.5 x 11.5inch), sewing machine, sewing needle
and thread to match colour of yarn, contrast fabric for
lining 2 pieces measuring 30.5 x 28cm (12 x 11inch) and
2 pieces measuring 15.25 x 31.75cm (6 x 12.5inch) and 1
piece measuring x 12.25 x 29cm (6 x 11.5inch).
Tension 16 sts and 25 rows to10cm (4inch) in stocking stitch.
Finished Size Base 15cm x 28cm (5.5 x 11inch); Top to
Bottom length, excluding handles 35cm (14inch); Front
and Back Width excluding “side panels” 29cm (11.5inch)
each; Circumference76cm (30inch).
Abbreviations yo=yarn over, take yarn to front of work;
yrn=yarn round needle when between a purl and knit st,
such that you purl the purl st as per pattern, yarn is at
front, take yarn to back of work, wrap yarn around needle
so that yarn is at the back of the work, then knit your next
st as per the pattern; sm=stitch marker; tbl=through back
loop; k3tog=knit 3 sts together; LH=left hand; RH=right
hand; S1=slip 1 stitch knitwise; ssk=slip 2 sts knitwise,
one at a time, from left to right needle, slide tip of left
433a Fullarton Road, Highgate S.A. 5063 • ph. 08 8271 4670
needle through front of 2 slipped sts and knit together.
Bottom of Bag (worked flat)

Cast on 26sts with DPNs. Starting with a purl row, work
in st st (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) for 66 rows, ending on a
RS row. Do not turn work.
With shorter circular needle, pick up 65 stitches on left
hand side of fabric. With 2nd DPN, pick up 25 stitches
along bottom of fabric. With longer circular needle, pick
up 64 stitches on right hand side of fabric [total 180sts].
Place marker, knit one round using only longer circular
needle from now on. Begin working in Spiral Stitch.
Spiral Stitch Bag Body (worked in the round)

Round 1: * P3, yrn, k4, k2tog, k3 * to end.
Round 2: * P3, k1, yo, k4, k2tog, k2 * to end.
Round 3: * P3, k2, yo, k4, k2tog, k1 * to end.
Needle Nook
Proud stockists of major brands
Round 4: * P3, k3, yo, k4, k2tog * to end. Patons Shepherd Jo Sharp
Continue working these 4 rounds another 12 times. Peter Pan Debbie Bliss. Filatura di Crosa
Top Shaping (decreasing) Sirdar Te Awa Heirloom
Naturally Cleckheaton Sublime
Rnd 1: * P3, yrn, k4, k3tog, k2 * to end [165sts].
Rnd 2: * P3, k1, yo, k4, k3tog * to end [150sts]. • Patterns • Needles • Accessories
Rnd 3: * P3, k2, yo, k2, k3tog * to end [135sts]. • Cross Stitch, Tapestry and Haberdashery supplies
• Knitting and Crochet classes in store.
Rnd 4: * P3, k3, yo, k3tog * to end [120sts].
Knit one round. Knit 30sts, place next 60sts on scrap Mail Order & phone Sales welcome.
Visit us at www.needlenook.com.au
yarn. Turn work. Work both sides the same (worked �lat). and use our secure order form.

Handle Shaping bag inside out. Wash and dry to shape. With new yarn
**Row 1 (WS): S1, and 4mm (US 6 or G) crochet hook, make 5 button loops
p2tog, p to 3 sts before (make a crochet chain of about 6 chains), spaced evenly
sm, p2togtbl, p1 on the inside of both flaps, close to the edge of the lace
[58sts]. section. Sew 6 buttons on the inside of both flaps with
Row 2 (RS): Turn work; sewing needle and thread, corresponding with the
Sl, ssk, * K 2nd st on LH button loops. Place cane handles on flap and button
needle tbl and leave on in place with crocheted loops. Place cardboard inside
RH needle, then k 1st st pouch, then turn bag inside out. Sew in all loose ends
on LH needle, making securely with tapestry needle.
sure to slip both sts off
the LH needle * to last Optional Fabric Lining
3 sts, k2tog, k1 [56sts]. With right sides facing, sew bottom and narrow side
Row 3 (WS): Turn pieces together, 1cm from fabric edge. Overlock or zig-
work; S1, p2tog, p1, * p zag edges for extra strength.
2nd st on LH needle and
leave it on RH needle,
then p 1st st LH needle, Left Side Bottom Right Side
making sure you slip
both sts worked off the
LH needle * to last 4 sts, p1, p2togtbl, p1 [54sts]. Sew together
Repeat Rows 2-3, three more times [42sts]. 1cm in.
Next section
Sew Front Side to bottom edge, 1 cm from fabric edge,
Row 1 (RS): K1, * K 2nd st on LH needle tbl and leave on
then repeat for Back Side.
RH needle, then k 1st st on LH needle, making sure to
slip both sts off the LH needle * to last st, k1.
Row 2 (WS): P1, * p 2nd st on LH needle and leave it on
RH needle, then p 1st st LH needle, making sure you slip Front Side
both sts worked off the LH needle * to last st, p1.
Repeat Rows 1-2 another 5 times. **
Place all stitches on a stitch holder.
With new ball of yarn, repeat from ** to ** for other
side, starting at WS of work. Place stitches on stitch
holder back onto a DPN.
With all sides facing together, sew remaining edges
Neatening
1cm from fabric edge, then press all edges out using
With working yarn and longer circular needle, knit to
an iron. You lining will look like an elongated cube,
end of row. Using DPNs for picking up sts from edges,
without a lid.
pick up 46sts as evenly as possible along first edge. Knit
the next lot of sts with a DPN, then pick up 46 sts as
evenly as possible along second edge. Knit one round.
Commence I-cord cast off.
From beginning of work and using a DPN, cast on 2sts on LH
needle. K2, k2togtbl, replace 3 sts on RH needle back onto
LH needle * repeat to last 3 sts, bind off remaining sts then
secure last stitch and cut yarn leaving enough to sew in.
Finishing
Turn bag inside out. Using one of the seam edges at the For a neat top edge, pin down about 2.5cm (1inch) with
bottom and shorter circular needle, pick up 63sts along wrong sides of fabric facing and sew. Without turning,
the edge, but do not pick up along both shorter edges. sew another line to indicate where to attach the lining
Turn work and continue working in st st starting and into the bag using thread of same colour as yarn. Making
ending with a knit row, for 12.5cm (5inch) without sure seams are facing (hidden) outside, pin the lining
stretching fabric. Cast off all stitches loosely and cut into the bag as straight and evenly as possible directly
yarn leaving a 61cm (24inch) tail. With tapestry needle under the buttons, then with same coloured thread as
and starting from the right hand opposite edge, whip yarn, sew lining neatly into place using the sewn line
stitch handle flap to edge of bag. Secure yarn, then turn closest to the fabric edge as a guide.

Aran Mini
By Adaline Christie-Johnston
Y24 Aran mini pg15.indd 15 14/10/2011 10:05:09 PM

Aran Mini
Yarn Bendigo Woollen Mills Luxury 100% wool (200g/7oz,

300m/330yds, Equiv Aust 10 ply, CYCA #4, Worsted or
Aran) Colour Ghost 2 balls
Needles and notions 4.5mm (US 7) straight needles;
cable needle; 7 stitch markers (to separate pattern panels,
if desired); tapestry needle.
Tension in centre panel stitch pattern 28sts to 8.5cm
(3.35inch), unblocked
Finished Measurements Skirt pictured is 84cm (33inch)
around x 40cm (15.75inch) long. To increase size/width
add extra sts at side seams in either st st, moss st or in one
of the panels stitch patterns (remember to allow extra for
both sides and front/back).
Abbreviations TW2B=Knit into back of 2nd st and then
into front of first st, let both sts off needle; TW2F=Knit
into front of 2nd st and then into back of first st, let both
sts off the needle; T2B=Purl into back of 2nd st on needle
and then into first st in usual way, slipping both sts off
needle together; T2F=Knit into 2nd st on needle then purl
first st, slipping both sts off needle together; C4B=Slip
next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at back (or front) of
work, knit 2 sts from left hand needle then knit sts from
cable needle; MB=Make Bobble, knit into front and back
of next st 5 times, then slip 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th sts over
the 1st one; Cr3B=Slip next 2 sts on cable needle, leave at
back of work; k1 then k sts from cable needle; Cr3F=slip
next st on cable needle, leave at front of work, k2 then k
st from cable needle; C2P=purl into 2nd st on needle then
purl 1st st slipping both sts off needle together; yf=yarn
forward, move yarn to front of work under right hand
needle; k2tog=knit 2 sts together.
Pattern A Row 6: as 2nd row

Row 1: *TW2B, TW2F, rep from * to end. Row 7: C4B, (p2, T2B, T2F) 3 times, p2, C4F
Row 2: purl Row 8: p4, k3, (C2P, k4) 2 times, C2P, k3, p4
Row 3: *TW2F, TW2B, rep for * to end.
Row 4: purl Back and Front (the same)
Cast on 98 sts.
Pattern B Row 1: purl
Row 1: k1, p1, MB, p1, k1 Row 2: k1, pattern A over 20sts, p1, pattern B over
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8: p1, k3, p1 5sts, pattern C over 8sts then do centre pattern,
Rows 3, 5, 7: k1, p3, k1 pattern C over 8sts, pattern B over 5sts, p1, pattern A
over 20sts, k1
Pattern C Row 3: p1, pattern A over 20sts, p1, pattern B over
Row 1: p1, C3B, C3F, p1 5sts, pattern C over 8sts then do centre pattern,
Row 2: k1, p6, k1 pattern C over 8sts, pattern B over 5sts, p1, pattern A
Row 3: p1, k6, p1 over 20sts, p1
Row 4: k1, p6, k1 Repeat rows 2-3 (the alternating knit st and purl st
up each side make sides easier to sew together) until
Centre Pattern desired body length is reached. When desired body
Row1: k4 (p2, T2F, T2B) 3 times, p2, k4 length is reached, decrease 14sts evenly across work
Row 2: p4, (k2, p1) 6 times, k2, p4 (84sts) for waist band shaping.
Row 3: C4B, p1, (T2F, p2, T2B) 3 times, p1, C4F Next row: k3, * k2tog, yf, k3* repeat across all sts. Do 4
Row 4: p4, k1, p1, (k4, C2P) 2 times, k4, p1, k1, p4 rows 1x1 rib (k1, p1 across row).
Row 5: k4, p1, (T2B, p2, T2F) 3 times, p1, k4 Cast off.

KNITTING YARNS
DIRECT FROM THE MANUFACTURER
Bendigo Woollen Mills is Australia’s largest

hand knitting yarn mail order manufacturer.
Send for a free shade card or shop online.
Hem
Cast on 7sts.
Row 1: k2, p1, MB, p1, k1, p1 4 LANSELL STREET, BENDIGO, VIC. 3550
PH ORDERS 03 5442 4600 FAX 24 HRS 03 5442 2918
Row 2: k1, p1, k3, p2
www.bendigowoollenmills.com.au
Repeat these 2 rows until hem measures width of skirt.

Finishing
Sew up sides. Sew hem to cast on edge of skirt. Weave
in any loose ends.

Y24 Modular skirt pg18.indd 18 14/10/2011 10:06:59 PM

Modular
Scallop Skirt
By Judy Blackburn
Yarn for Main Colour (MC), Debbie Bliss Donegal Luxury

Tweed Aran 85% Wool, 15% Angora (50g/1.75oz,
88m/97yds, 10wpi, equiv Aust 10ply, CYCA #4, Worsted,
Afghan)5 Balls Colour 360027; for Contrast Colour (CC),
Noro Silk Garden Lite 45% Silk, 45% Kid Mohair, 10% Lamb’s
Wool (50g/1.75oz, 125m/137yds, 13wpi, equivalent Aust
8 ply, CYCA #3, DK, Light Worsted) 2 Balls Colour 2010.
Please note that after commissioning this pattern Noro Silk
Garden Lite was discontinued – any DK weight yarn can be
substituted.
Needles and notions 3.75mm (US 5) and 4.5mm (US
7) circular needles, 80cm ; straight 4.5mm (US 7) needles
for 3 needle cast off and also for scallops, if preferred to
circulars; two buttons; tapestry needle.
Tension 19 sts and 26 rows to 10cm (4inch) on 4.5mm
(US 7) needles in st st
Size Each vertical panel measures 10cm (4in) at the
waistband, so work more or less panels to desired waist
size. Skirt pictured contains 6 panels, for a 60cm (24inch)
waistband.
Abbreviations CO=Cast On; WS=wrong side of work;
RS=right side of work; PU=pick up; Tbl=through back
loop; RH=right hand; LH=left hand; Wyib=with yarn
at back of work; Wyif=with yarn at front of work;
K2tog=knit 2 sts together; P2tog=purl 2 sts together;
P3tog=purl 3 sts together; Sl 1F=slip 1 st knitwise with
yarn at front of work; sK2po=slip 1 wyib knit 2 together
pass slipped st over; Ssk= Slip 2 stiches separately onto
RH needle knitwise, slip LH needle into front of these sts,
knit 2 sts together; s2kp2= Slip 2 sts together knitwise K1
pass slipped stitches over for a centred double decrease;
Seed st= K1, P1 across row then on return row purl the
knits and knit the purls; w&tK= On RS with yarn at back
of work slip next stitch to RH needle, bring yarn to front
of work and turn, slip stitch from LH needle to RH needle K2tog, sl 1F [10 sts]. Cut CC.
until end; w&tP= On WS with yarn at back of work, slip Row 15 (MC): K1tbl, knit to last st, sl 1F.
next stitch to RH needle, bring yarn to front of work and Rows 16, 18, 20: K2tog tbl, seed st across, P2tog.
turn, slip stitch from LH needle to RH needle until end. Rows 17, 19, 21, 23: K1tbl, seed st across, sl 1F
Row 22: K1tbl, P2tog, sl 1F [3 sts].
Basic Scallop Pattern Row 24: sK2po. Fasten off.
Using 4.5mm (US 7) needles
Row 1 (CC): CO or PU 25 sts from 2 shells in row below. Between each vertical panel a three scallop group is
Row 2 (WS): K1tbl, knit to last st, sl 1F. required. Work the first two scallops separately, casting
Rows 3 & 7 (MC): K1tbl, sl 1 wyib, *(K1, sl 1 wyib)* rep on stitches to begin the scallop, then pick up stitches for
from * to * to last st, sl 1F. the third scallop from the sides of the first two scallops.
Rows 4 & 8 (MC): K1tbl, sl 1 wyif, *(K1 wyib, sl 1 wyif)*
rep from * to * to last st, sl 1F.
Rows 5, 6, 9, 13 (CC): K1tbl, knit to last st, sl 1F.
Row 10 (CC): K2tog tbl, (K1, K2tog) 7 times, P2tog [16
sts].
Row 11 (MC): K1tbl, (sl 1 wyib, K1) 7 times, sl 1F.
Row 12 (MC): K1tbl, (K1 wyib, sl1 wyif) 7 times, sl 1F.
Row 14 (CC): K2tog tbl, K2tog, (K1, K2tog) 3 times,

First Vertical Panel
Row 1 (RS & CC): With 4.5mm (US 7) needles CO 74
sts, PU 25 sts along RH side of two scallops in 3 scallop
group, CO 50 sts [149 st total].
Row 2 (WS & CC): K1tbl, K to last st, sl 1F.
Row 3 (MC): K1tbl, K48, ssk, k22, s2kp2, K22, k2tog, K
to last st, sl 1F [145 sts]
Row 4, and all WS rows to row 18: K1tbl, P to last
st, sl 1F.
Row 5: K1tbl, K48, ssk, K 20, s2kp2, K 20, k2tog, K to
last st, sl 1F [141 sts]
Row 7: K1tbl, K48, ssk, K18, s2kp2, K18, K2tog, K to last
st, sl 1F [137 sts].
Row 9: K1tbl, K48, ssk, K16, s2kp2, K16, K2tog, K to last
st, sl 1F [133 sts].
Continue decreases as set on RS rows until you have
worked to the K8 sts row [117 sts total], then work
WS row.
Row 19: K1tbl, K48, ssk, K6, s2kp2, K6, K2tog, K36,
w&tK.
Row 20: P87, w&tP.
Row 21: K36, ssk, K4, s2kp2, K4, K2tog, K24, w&tK.
Row 22: P59, w&tP.
Row 23: K24, ssk, K2, s2kp2, K2, K2tog, K12, w&tK.
Row 24: P31, w&tP.
Row 25: K12, ssk, s2kp2, K2tog turn without
wrapping yarn.
Row 26: P3tog and keep on straight 4.5mm needle.
Fold knitting so that WS are together with 49 stitches on
each half of the circular needle, ready to do a 3 needle
cast off. Using the separate needle which still has the
single stitch created from the p3tog on it, cast off all the
stitches using the 3 needle cast off method. Fasten off.
This will produce a vertical panel which is wider at the
bottom, coming to a point at the base.
Second and Subsequent Panels

Row 1 (RS & CC): With RS of first panel facing PU 50
sts from LH edge of previous panel, PU 25 sts from LH
side of first 3 scallop group (previously attached to first
vertical panel), PU 24 sts from RH edge of second 3
scallop group, CO 50 sts [149 sts total].
Row 2: Same as first panel.
Complete as for first panel.

Size adjustment is made by increasing or decreasing
the number of panels worked. As the skirt is
intended to overlap, similar to a kilt, there is some
freedom with the sizing, as the buttons can be placed
wherever they are required (ideal for a growing
waistline). Each panel should measure approximately
10cm (4 inches) at the top edge before the waistband
is knitted on. Before the final panel is added, this is
the time to add or subtract panels to change the size
of the skirt.
Final Panel
This is worked the same as previous panels but
instead of picking up stitches from a new 3 scallop
group after picking up sts from the previous 3
scallop group, CO 24 sts, then CO a further 50 sts to
complete the 149 sts for the panel. Complete as for
previous panels.
Waistband
Row 1 (CC): With RS facing, using 3.75mm (US 5)
circular needle PU one stitch in each loop from slipped
end stitches along top edge of all vertical panels. Exact
stitch numbers are not essential but there should be
approximately 20sts per panel with the total number of
stitches being an odd number.
Row 2 (CC): K1tbl, K to last st, Sl 1F.
Row 3 (MC): K1tbl, *( sl 1 wyib, K1)* rep from * to * to
last 2 sts, sl 1 wyib, sl 1F.
Row 4 (MC): K1tbl, sl 1 wyif, *(K1 wyib, sl 1 wyif)* rep
from * to * to last st, sl 1F.
Row 5 (CC): K1tbl, K to last st, Sl 1F.
Repeat Rows 2 - 5 twice more. In CC, cast off all stitches.
If a deeper waistband is desired, work Rows 2 – 5 until
the required measurement is achieved.
Waistband Lining
For a �irmer waistband, using MC, with RS facing, pick
up one stitch from each back loop of waistband cast
off edge. Starting with a purl row, work stocking stitch
(knit 1 row, purl 1 row) until inner waistband is the
same depth as the waistband. Cast off and catch Cast off
edge to underside of waistband, sewing up the ends of
the waistband as you go.
Buttonholes
With CC and WS facing, at each end of waistband pick
up 9 stitches along the end of the waistband. Knit one
row. Buttonhole row: K3, cast off 3, k3. Next row: K3, CO
3, k3. Next row: Knit Cast off.
Finishing
Gently press skirt and sew in all ends. Sew one button
on RS of waistband and one button on the inside of
waistband, according to �it. This garment has an overlap
of one vertical panel.

This unique summer skirt will make a
divine piece in your seaside outfit. It is oh
so lovely to wear, whether you’re going to
enjoy some relaxing time on the beach or
catching up over fish and chips. It will also
look stunning over a pair of tights for the
cooler weather. Just have fun with it. This
was inspired by a skirt that my mumma
made for me about 13 years ago.
Y24 Pineapple skirt pg22.indd 22 14/10/2011 10:10:37 PM

Pineapple
Fields Mini Skirt
By Ariel Roberts
Yarn Aunt Lydia’s Fashion Crochet Thread Size 3, 100%

cotton (50g/1.75oz, 137m/150yds, 14wpi, equiv Aust 4ply,
CYCA #1, Sock or Fingering) 4 Balls Colour #423 Maize
Hooks and notions 2mm (US 0 or A) hook; tapestry needle
Tension One square measures 24cm (9½ inches)
Finished measurement Size 8-10 Ladies, as pictured, 26cm
(10.25inch) long x 96cm (37.75inch) around mid-hip. Can be
easily sized up or down by using larger or smaller hooks and
yarn (measure your Pineapple square and work from there).
To make longer, do additional top band and edging rows.
Notes & Abbreviations You will be working mainly into
the spaces between stitches, unless stated to work into the
loop of previous row’s treble. 4 tr Cluster=Holding back the
last loop of each tr, work 4 tr into the same space [*yarn over,
insert hook into space, yarn over, draw yarn through the stitch,
yarn over, draw through 2 loops on hook* 4 times], 5 loops
rem on hook, yarn over, pull loop through all 5 loops on hook
(worked together as one - multiple trebles share the one loop);
Beginning Cluster=the first cluster of a round [2 chain,
(into first space) work 3 trebles together as one]; Cluster=If
at start of round this means do a Beginning Cluster, if within
the round this refers to a 4 tr Cluster; Shell=For edging only, 5
trebles worked into a loop, and secured with a double crochet;
Decrease=Work 2 trebles together as one.
Pineapple Square (Make 4)

Make 5 ch, join with slip stitch (sl st) into �irst ch to
form a ring (or begin with an adjustable ring).
Round 1: 3 ch (this acts as 1 tr + 1 ch), work into ring *
1 tr, 1 ch * 7 times, sl st to join to 2nd chain at beginning
(should be a total of 8 spindles and 8 spaces). Pull
adjustable ring’s string and tighten.
Round 2: Beginning cluster (2 ch, -into �irst space- work
3 tr together as one), * 3 ch, (into next space) 4 tr cluster
* 7 times, 3 ch and sl st to beginning cluster to join.
Round 3: Beginning cluster, 3 ch (into same space) 4 tr
cluster, * 3 ch, (into next space) 1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr, 3 ch, (into
next space) 4 tr cluster, 3 ch, 4 tr cluster * 3 ½ times
until back to start, join with sl st.
Round 4: Beginning cluster, 3 ch, (into same space)
4 tr cluster, * 3 ch, (into tr loop from previous row) 1
tr, 2 ch, (into space between the trebles on previous
round) 3 tr, ch 2, (into tr loop) 1 tr, 3 ch, (working into
space between the 2 clusters from previous round) 4 tr
cluster, 3 ch, 4 tr cluster. * do this 3 ½ times until back
to start, sl st to join.
From here on in the �irst ‘cluster’ at the beginning of the
round refers to a Beginning Cluster [2 ch, 3 tr worked as
one] and all other ‘cluster’ refers to a 4 tr Cluster.
Round 5: * Cluster (the �irst one will be a Beginning
Cluster, next 3 repeats will be a 4 tr cluster), 3 ch, (into
same space) cluster (this is a 4 tr cluster), 3 ch, (into tr

loop from previous row) 1 tr, 2 ch, (into next 3 tr loops) 3 ch, (into space) * 4 times. Join with sl st.
2 tr, 2 ch, (into tr loop from previous row) 1 tr, 3 ch, Round 11: * Cluster, 3 ch, cluster, [5 ch, (into bridge)
(into space between clusters) * 4 times until back to 1 dc] x 4, 5 ch, (into space) cluster, 3 ch, cluster, 3 ch,
start, sl st to join. (into loop) 1 tr, 2 ch, decrease first 2 loops, decrease
Round 6: * Cluster, 3 ch, (into same space) cluster, 3 next 2 loops, 2 ch, (into next loop) 1 tr, 3 ch, (into space)
ch, cluster, 3 ch, (into tr loop from previous row) 1 tr, * repeat 4 times. Join with sl st.
2 ch, 2 tr into first loop, 1 tr into next 4 loops, 2 tr into Round 12: * Cluster, 3 ch, cluster, [5 ch, (into bridge) 1
last loop, (into tr loop from previous row) 2 ch, 1 tr, 3 dc] x 5, 5 ch, (into space) cluster, 3 ch, cluster, 3 ch, (into
ch, (next repeat work into space between clusters) * 4 loop) 1 tr, 2 ch, decrease 2 loops, 2 ch, (into next loop) 1
times, join with sl st. tr, 3 ch, (into space) * 4 times. Join with sl st.
Round 7: * Cluster, 3 ch, (into same space) cluster, 5 ch, Round 13: * Cluster, 3 ch, cluster, [5 ch, (into bridge) 1
(into next space between clusters) cluster, 3 ch, cluster, dc] x 6, 5 ch, (into space) cluster, 3 ch, cluster, 3 ch, (into
3 ch, (into loop) 1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr into next 8 loops, 2 ch, loop) 1 tr, 2 ch, (into loop) 1 tr, 3 ch, (into space) * 4
(into next loop) 1 tr, 3 ch * 4 times, join with sl st. times. Join with sl st.
Round 8: * Cluster, 3 ch, (into same space) cluster, 5 Round 14: * Cluster, 3 ch, cluster, [5 ch, (into bridge)
ch, (into bridge made by last rounds ch of 5) 1 dc, 5 ch, 1 dc] x 7, 5 ch, (into space) cluster, 3 ch, cluster, 3 ch,
(into next space between clusters) cluster, 3 ch, cluster, decrease the 2 remaining loops, 3 ch, (into space) * 4
3 ch, (into loop) 1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr into next 8 loops, 2 ch, times. Join with sl st.
(into next loop) 1 tr, 3 ch * 4 times, join with sl st. Round 15: * Cluster, 3 ch, cluster, [5 ch, (into bridge) 1
Round 9: * Cluster, 3 ch, (into same space) cluster, 5 dc] x 8, 5 ch, (into space) cluster, 3 ch, cluster, 1 ch, (into
ch, (into bridge) 1 dc, 5 ch, (into next bridge) 1dc, 5 ch, loop from previous decrease) 1 dtr, 1 ch, (into space) *
(into space) cluster, 3 ch, cluster, 3 ch, (into loop) 1 tr, 4 times, join with sl st.
2 ch, decrease first 2 loops (work 2 trebles as one), 1 tr Round 16: * Cluster, [5 ch, (into bridge) 1 dc] x 9, 5 ch,
into next 4 loops, decrease next 2 loops, 2 ch, (into next (into space) cluster, 1 ch, (into loop) 1 dtr, 1 ch, (into
loop) 1 tr, 3 ch * 4 times, join with sl st. space) * repeat 4 times. Join with sl st.
Round 10: * Cluster, 3 ch, cluster, [5 ch, (into bridge) 1 Complete 4 squares. To join squares: Get 2 squares and
dc] x 3, 5 ch, (into space) cluster, 3 ch, cluster, 3 ch, (into place right sides together, crochet or sew seam from first
loop) 1 tr, 2 ch, decrease first 2 loops, 1 tr into next 2 bridge (5 ch) down to last double treble. Repeat until all
loops, decrease next 2 loops, 2 ch, (into next loop) 1 tr, 4 squares are together, forming the main part of the skirt.

Top Band
The top of the skirt is where the double trebles have been
seamed together. Begin at the �irst bridge of any square.
Row 1: * (into bridge) 3 tr, 1 ch * 10 times (to other
corner of square). [ (into where seam is) 3 dtr, 1 ch ].
Repeat * - * 10 times, [ - ] once. Around all 4 squares,
until back to start. Join with sl st.
Row 2: 3 ch, *skip 1 loop, 1 tr in next loop, 1 tr in space,
1 tr in next loop, 1 ch* repeat around until back to start.
Join with sl st.
Row 3: 2 ch, * 1 tr in space, 1 tr in next loop, 1 ch, skip
1 loop, 1 tr in next loop * repeat around until back to
start. Join with sl st.
Row 4: same as row 2.
Edging
Begin at �irst ch5 bridge space.
1 ch, * (into dc loop) 5 tr, 1 dc into bridge space * 9 times
across square’s edge (this is known as shell edging). To
�ill in triangle, 2 ch, 1 dc into cluster loop, 2 ch, 1 dc into
cluster loop, sl st into next space, 5 tr into seam stitch, 1
dc to cluster loop, sl st up to next space, ch 2, 1 dc into
cluster loop. Turn work around so you can work in the
other direction. 5 tr into dc near cluster, 1 dc to 3rd loop
of last shell. 5 tr into cluster loop. 1 dc into other cluster
loop, 2 ch, 1 dc next to shell from edging of square. Turn
work back around. Now that the triangle has been �illed,
you can continue the shell edging as before: (into dc loop)
5 tr, 1 dc into 3rd loop of shell, (into dc loop) 5 tr, 1 dc
into 3rd loop of shell, (into dc loop) 5 tr, 1 dc into bridge. ]
repeat [-] 3 times, until back to start. Join with sl st.
Finishing
Sew in all loose ends. To make the drawstring: measure
about 9 arm’s lengths of cotton. Fold in half (double
over) and crochet chain until end of length, cut off and
pull end through to secure. Use a tapestry needle to
weave drawstring through row 3 on band of skirt. Tie
with a cute little bow at the front.

the Old Shale got its name from the pattern made by the
North Sea on the shale beach.
Sarah Don in her book from the 1980’s, The Art of
Shetland Lace, writes about her research into lace
knitting on the Shetland Islands. On her trip to the islands
she could not find any evidence of lace knitting before
1830. But in something over 100 years, Shetland knitters
Feather and Fan

developed their own suite of patterns as well as well as
a multitude of variations. She discovered that different
families worked each pattern in their own way and gave
or Old Shale?
different names to the same pattern. Sarah Don lists thirty
names and points out how they relate to the environment
in which the knitters lived. The list included Old Shale
and Old Shell but no Feather and Fan.
By Jude Skeers
It was Barbara Walker in her book, A Treasury of
Ask any experienced hand knitter and they will tell you Knitting Patterns, who bought all the names together.
that they are familiar with the Feather and Fan pattern. She has a single lace pattern to which she gives the name,
It is one of the traditional patterns, well-known to Feather and Fan Stitch, or Old Shale. She calls it an old
Australian knitters, which have been passed down for Shetland pattern with deep scallops. She describes a
generations, via word of mouth and in knitting pattern number of ways of using decreases and increases to vary
books and magazines. I had a recent conversation with the stitch pattern but achieve a similar result. Virtually all
knitter and crocheter Prudence Mapstone on the topic of recent hand knitting pattern books use the name Feather
Feather and Fan. She told me that Feather and Fan would and Fan—there are minimal references to Old Shale.
have been a pattern published in a woman’s magazine in At the end of this research I have come to the conclusion
the 1950’s or earlier. A knitter in the Katoomba group of that the name Old Shale (and Old Shell) failed to cross the
the Knitters Guild of NSW can remember being taught a ocean, whether to America or Australia. In the process
pattern by her grandmother in the 1940’s that she called of traversing the ocean the name of the pattern changed
Feather and Fan. to Feather and Fan pattern or a variation on it. Perhaps
In this Tech Talk, I set out to write an article that would the pattern publishers had no concept of Shale beaches
investigate whether the popular pattern that I know as and decided that the pattern looked like feathers and
Feather and Fan was based on an even number or an odd fans, thus the name change. In another place or culture,
number of stitches. I have instead decided to focus on the a different name might have been given. I discovered a
history of Feather and Fan and to leave the actual pattern Chinese knitting pattern book that gives the pattern the
for another Tech Talk. title of Peacock and says that the Peacock pattern is a
My first task was to find out how far back I could trace variation of Old Shale or Feather and Fan.
the Feather and Fan pattern. The earliest reference was In Sharon Miller’s recent publication on Shetland Lace
in Weldon’s Practical Knitter, first published in the 19th knitting I found a reference that sums up the idea of giving
Century. It describes a dress knitted for a doll as being titles to patterns very succinctly, “It is generally held by
knitted in Shell and Feather stitch. The pattern is similar those who collect knitting patterns that the linking of
to the present day Feather and Fan pattern. A later book, names to patterns is a nightmare. Commonly, there are local
Weldons Encyclopaedia of Needlework from 1945 has two names for patterns made around the world, and so the same
lace patterns, each one quite different from the other— pattern can easily turn up with at least two different names”.
Feather Stitch and Ridged Feather Stitch. Books referred to for this Tech talk were: A Treasury of
I discovered three distinct lace patterns in James Knitting Patterns by Barbara Walker (1968); Traditional
Norbury’s Traditional Knitting Patterns. He has a section on Knitting Patterns by James Norbury (1962); Patterns
Shetland Lace, where it identifies: Old Shale pattern, Shell from China by Judith Gross (1982); Knitting 19th Century
pattern, and Feather and Fan pattern. His Old Shale pattern Sources Jules & Kaethe Kliot (editors); Reproduction of
is very similar to the Feather and Fan pattern that I have Weldon’s Practical Knitter (Twenty Sixth Series); Mary
been knitting. His Feather and Fan pattern is very different. Thomas’s Knitting Book by Mary Thomas, (1938); Patons,
The name Old Shale occurs in two books on the history of A Story of Handknitting by Michael Harvey (1980); A
hand knitting written in the 1980’s. In one of them, Michael History of hand Knitting by Richard Rutt (1987); The Art of
Harvey’s Patons, A Story of Handknitting, reference is made Shetland Lace by Sarah Don (1980); Heirloom Knitting, A
to five Shetland patterns including Old Shale. Neither this Shetland Lace Knitting’s Pattern and Handbook by Sharon
book nor Richard Rutt’s A History of hand Knitting make Miller (2002). I opened many more books and internet
reference to the Feather and Fan Pattern. pages in this research. I thank the Knitters’ Guild NSW
It was at this point that I decided to research Shetland for access to their library and Veronica Moschione for
Lace and Old Shale. There is an Old Shale pattern in her assistance. Readers may also like to view the Richard
Mary Thomas’s Knitting Book, from the 1930’s. She has a Rutt Collection at the University of Southampton Library:
description of a beautiful Shetland shawl from Unst with www.soton.ac.uk/intheloop/richardruttcollection.html
an Old Shale pattern. She points out that some people It is wonderful legacy from the man fondly known as the
erroneously refer to it as Old Shell. She describes how Knitting Bishop (1925-2011).
Y24 Tech Talk pg26.indd 26 14/10/2011 10:13:37 PM

Y24 Ashford promo pg27.indd 27 14/10/2011 10:21:56 PM

Y24 Lace Top pg28.indd 28 14/10/2011 10:23:17 PM

Lace Top
By Annie Modesitt
Yarn Hand Maiden Double Sea Silk 70% Silk, 30% Seacell®
(100g/3.5oz, 250m/274yds, 12wpi, equiv Aust 8ply, CYCA
#3, Double Knit) Colour Stardust 2 (3, 3, 4, 6, 8) skeins
Needles and notions 3.75mm (US 5) 80cm circular
needle, stitch marker, tapestry needle
Tension 20sts and 28 rows to 10cm (4inch) in st st. One lace
repeat for upper body lace pattern measures 5cm (2inch).
Finished Measurements Bust 81 (91.5, 101.5, 112, 122,
132)cm or 32 (36 ,40 ,44 ,48 ,52)inch; Length 52 (54, 54,
56, 57, 60)cm or 20 (21, 21, 22, 22, 23)inch
Abbreviations VDI=Vertical Double Increase, K into
front of st, YO, k into back of st (inc of 2 sts); VDD=Vertical
Double Decrease, Sl 2 sts as if to work k2tog-R, k1, pass
slipped sts over (decrease of 2 sts); YO=Yarn over, wrap
yarn around needle; K2tog-L=Knit 2 sts together so the
working needle is pointing to the left as it enters the stitch
(dec will slant to the left) such as SSK, k2togtbl or s1, k1,
psso; K2tog=Knit 2 sts together so the working needle is
pointing to the right as it enters the stitch (dec will slant
to the right); 2-st Picot Cast Off=K2togL, slip the stitch
created back onto the left needle, (knit this st, then slip the
st just created back onto the left hand needle) rep once
more, slip st back onto LH needle, repeat instructions for
each stitch until all are bound off.
Worked from the top down with little finishing work, this
can be completed and worn very quickly.
Neck
Cast On 96 (108, 120, 132, 144, 156) sts, leaving a tail
long enough to sew 5 row seam.
Following the Neck Chart, work the first five rows back
and forth as foll:
Row 1: K1 (YO, VDD, YO, k1) rep until 4 sts rem, end YO,
k2tog-L, k1.
Row 2: K2, YO (YO, VDD, YO, p1) rep until 2 sts rem,
end p2tog.
Rows 3-5: Knit all sts.
Join work, being careful not to twist stitches. Place
marker to denote start of round.
Yoke
Following Yoke Chart, work the next 50 rounds as follows:
Round 1: *K1, k2tog, YO, k2, p1 repeat from * 16 (18,
20, 22, 24, 26) times
Rounds 2 & 4: *K5, p1 repeat from * whole round
Round 3: *K2tog-L, YO, k1, YO, k2tog, p1 repeat from *
whole round
Round 5: *YO, k5, YO, p1 repeat from * whole round
128 (144, 160, 176, 192, 208) sts
Rounds 6, 8, 10 & 12: *K7, p1 repeat from * whole round
Round 7: *K2, k2tog, YO, k3, p1 repeat from * whole round
Round 9: *K1, k2tog-L, YO, k1, YO, k2tog, k1, p1 repeat
from * whole round

Round 11: *K2tog-L, YO, k3,
YO, k2tog, p1 repeat from *
whole round
Round 13: *YO, k2, YO, VDD, YO, k2,
YO, p1 repeat from * whole round
160 (180, 200, 220, 240, 260) sts
Rounds 14, 16 & 18: *K9, p1
repeat from * whole round
Round 15: *K1, YO, k2tog-L, k3,
k2tog, YO, k1, p1 repeat from *
whole round
Round 17: *K2, YO, k2tog-L, k1,
k2tog, YO, k2 p1repeat from *
whole round
Round 19: *K3, YO, sl 1, k1, sl 1, YO,
k3, p1 repeat from * whole round
192 (216, 240, 264, 288, 312) sts
Rounds 20, 22, 24, 26: *K11, p1
Rounds 21, 23, 25: *K2, YO,
k2tog-L, YO, VDD, YO, k2tog, YO, k2
p1repeat from * whole round
Round 27: *K3, YO, k1, YO, VDD,
YO, k1, YO, k3, p1 repeat from *
whole round 224 (252, 280, 308,
336, 364) sts
Rounds 28, 30, 32: *K13, p1 repeat
from * whole round
Rounds 29 & 31: *K3, YO, k2tog-L,
YO, VDD, YO, k2tog, YO, k3 p1repeat
from * whole round
Round 33: *[YO, VDD, YO, k2]
twice, YO, VDD, YO, p1* repeat from
* to * whole round
Rounds 34 & 36: Purl all sts.
Round 35: *K5, YO, VDD, YO, k6
Round 37: *YO, k5, VDD, k5, YO, k1
Rounds 38, 40, 42 & 44: Knit
all sts.
Round 39: *YO, k1, YO, k4, VDD, k4,
YO, k1, YO, k1 repeat from * whole
round 256 (288, 320, 352, 384,
416) sts
Round 41: *K1, YO, k2tog-L, YO, k3,
VDD, k3, YO, k2tog, YO, k2 repeat
from * whole round
from * whole round
from * whole round
Rounds 46, 48 & 50: *K7, p1, k8



Round 47: *K4, YO, k2tog-L, YO, VDD, YO, k2tog, YO, k5
Round 49: *K6, YO, VDD, YO, k7 repeat from *
whole round
After Round 50, Cast Off all sts using the 2-st picot
cast off.
Body
Steam block Yoke, then join the edges of the �irst 5 rows
using the cast on tail. Weave in ends.
Turn Yoke inside out and at Round 35 pick up (PU) body
sts as foll:
Starting at a VDD point (between two YO’s) on the
wrong side, PU 12 between each VDD along Round 35
a total of 5 (5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5) times, [for the .5, pick up
6st in half a section] then PU 1 more st for 61 (67, 73,
79, 85, 91) sts picked up (half body). Skip 2 sections
(armhole). Repeat the instructions once more, for 122
(134, 146, 158, 170, 182) sts on needle, divided into
two groups of 61 (67, 73, 79, 85, 91) sts. Adjust the
work so that the hem of the yoke ruf�le is hanging to
the outside of the work. At this point the Right Side
of the body will be facing you as you work. Join yarn
at the start of either section and [knit 61 (67, 73, 79,
85, 91) sts, CO 11 (17, 23, 29, 35, 41) sts] twice, for a
total of 144 (168, 192, 216, 240, 264) sts on needle
for body.
Establish Body Chart, lining up VDD (st 7 in Row 1)

with VDD’s from Yoke Pickup. Place marker to denote
start of round. It may be necessary to re-adjust stitch
marker every few rounds due to bias movement of
the fabric. Book 1309
Round 1: *K5, VDD, k5, VDI repeat from * 12 (14, 16,

FAMILY &
18, 20, 22) times HOMEWARES
15 DESIGNS
Round 2: Knit all sts

Repeat Rows 1 & 2 of Body Chart until piece measures
21 (21, 21, 22, 22, 22)cm or 8 (8.25, 8.25, 8.5, 8.5, 8.75)
inch, or reaches desired length below bust line.
Round 3: *YO, k4, VDD, k4, YO, k1 repeat from * 12 (14,
16, 18, 20, 22) times
Round 4: Knit all sts.
FAMILY &
HOMEWARES
Repeat Rows 3 & 4 of Body Chart until piece measures
15 (15, 16, 16, 17, 17)cm or 6 (6, 6.25, 6.25, 6.5, 6.75)
inch from start of body (or desired length).
Round 5: *P5, k1, p6 repeat from * whole round
Knit something warm for your family or home with
Round 6: Knit all sts.
Patons Inca.
Repeat Rows 5 & 6 of Body Chart twice.
Patons new book 1309 includes small to large
Body Ruffle projects, featuring classic cream and our new
Work Rounds 27-50 of Yoke Chart, casting off using the season colours.
2-st picot cast off as for yoke. Available at all good knitting stores.
Finishing Phone 1800 337 032 for your nearest stockist.

Weave in ends. Steam block piece. www.patonsyarns.com.au

Heidi Sun Kiss
Bikini Set
By Rommyna De Leeuw
Yarn Heirloom 8ply 100% Cotton (50g/1.75oz,

120m/131yds, 15wpi, equiv between Aust 5-8ply,
CYCA 3, Light Double Knit, Heavy Sport) 3 balls
Colour #611 Watermelon, 1 ball Colour #613 Red.
Hooks and notions 3.5mm (US 4 or E) hook;
31 faceted beads (6mm); 4 pearlised beads
(5mm); needle and thread to sew beads; row
counter; stitch markers; hat elastic, if desired.
Tension 20 sts and 16 rows to 10cm (4 in)
Sizes Bikini in Child 2 [4, 6, 8]; Hat in generic size
(adjustable with tie) with 51cm (20inch) circumference
Pattern Notes Bikini shown is size 6. When only one
number is given for pattern size instructions, it applies
to all sizes. To follow pattern easily, circle all numbers
pertaining to the size of your choice. Top and bottom
is worked alternating back loops and front loops. This
will give a raised look to every other row.
Abbreviations blp or flp=Instead of inserting hook
under both loops at the top of st, insert hook only
under the back/front loop of st; dec=decrease, miss
or skip 1 dc; inc=increase, make 2dc in the same st;
Peruvian Picot =RS facing you, 1dc, 2ch, insert hk
into first dc from hk and make 1dc, 1ch, miss 2dc;
Surface Crochet Chain=insert hk between dc and
wrap yo hk ( yarn is held at WS) work sl st, the effect
is like chain stitch embroidery; sh=shell, work 1dc,
miss 1tr (3tr) and work 6tr into the next st.
This set was inspired by my niece and her love of water.

She couldn’t dress herself, but she could manage to put
her bikini on and look adorable! This is for all those little
girls, who love to play in their backyards, pools or sand
boxes and get a nice, sun kissed tan.
Bikini Top Band

With MC and 3.5mm (US 4 or E), begin with 222 [194,
202, 214]ch. Turn.
Row 1: Form the back ties 1ch, sl st in 2nd ch from hk
and in each ch. 50 [50, 52, 52]sl st. Continue working
94 [102, 110, 118]dc; then 50 [50, 52, 52]sl st. End off.
Row 2: Work in blp. Dc in first dc and in each dc
across. Turn.
Row 3: Work in flp. Miss 1dc, work dc in each dc across,
miss last st. Turn.
Row 4: Work in blp. Miss 1dc, work dc in each dc, miss
last st. End off.
Bikini Top Front

With MC at RS of the band and alternating back lps and
front lps-
Y24 Swim suit pg34.indd 34 14/10/2011 10:35:31 PM

wool fibres
www.thethreadstudio.com
silk fibres
plant fibres
hand dyed
with love
ps
threads too!
the thread studio

perth western australia
ph + 61 8 9227 1561
mail@thethreadstudio.com
Row 1: Form left top. Miss 30 sts. Attach yarn and work www.thethreadstudio.com
16 [20, 24, 28]dc. Turn.
Row 2: 1ch, dec, work 14 [18, 22, 26]dc dec. Turn.
Row 3: 1ch, dec, work 12dc [16, 20, 24], dec. Turn.
Row 4: Work 1dc in ea dc. Turn.
Size 2, stop decreasing and work your Row 12 as Row 20.
Size 4, stop decreasing and work your Row 16 as Row 20.
Size 8, keep decreasing until 4dc remains in your Row
21 and work your Row 22 as Row 20.
Row 20: Form the neck ties. 1ch, dec, 1dc in next dc,
52 [52, 54, 54]ch. Turn. 1ch, sl st in 2nd ch from hk and
in each ch across, 1dc into first dc of row, 1 sl st in next
st. End off. Miss 2 st at centre to form the curve on the
bikini top. Rep from Rows 1 -12 [1-16, 1-20, 1-22] to
make right bikini top side.

Row 30: Inc, dc in each dc, inc in last dc, 1ch. Turn.
Row 31: Work dc in each dc across, 1ch. Turn.
Row 32: As Row 30
Row 33: As Row 31
Rows 34-35: As Row 30
Row 36: As Row 31.
Rows 37-38: As Row 30.
Row 39: As Row 31.
Row 43: As Row 31.
Row 47: As Row 31.
Row 51: As Row 31.
Row 52-54: As Row 30.
Row 55: As Row 31.
Row 56: As Row 30.
Row 57: As Row 31.
Row 58: As Row 30.
Row 59: Form the back ties. 1dc in each dc across, 52
[52, 54, 54]ch. Turn.
Row 60: 1ch, 52 [52, 54, 54]sl st. 1dc in each dc across,
52 [52, 54, 54]ch. Turn. 1ch, 52 [52, 54, 54]sl st. Fasten off.
Bikini Bottom Edging

With CC at RS of bottom, work Peruvian Picot around
and Surface Crochet Chain 3 sl st at waistline corners.
Keep working Peruvian Picot until you get to back tie
Bikini Top Edging corners and work 5ch, miss 2 rows. This forms safety
With CC at RS of top, work one row of Peruvian loops for ties. Add 1 bead to each end of ties. Work thin
Picot around the borders. Join and end off. elastic around edging and through ties, if desired.
Add 1 bead to each end of ties. Trim ends.
Hat
Bikini Bottom Work back loop only. Join rnds with sl st in first st of
With MC and 3.5mm (US 4 or E) alternating each rnd. Do not turn. With MC and 3.5mm (US 4 or E)
back and front lps, begin at front low hook, begin at centre crown, 4ch. Join in first ch.
waistline, 144 [150, 160, 166]ch. Turn. Rnd 1: 7dc into circle. Do not join (work in spiral
Row 1: Form the front ties. 1ch, sl st in 2nd ch from next 3 rnds)
hk and in each ch across, 52 [52, 54, 54]sl st. Continue Rnd 2: Inc 1dc in ea dc around. 14dc.
working 40 [46, 52, 58]dc; then 52 [52, 54, 54] sl st. Rnd 3: *Inc in next dc, 1dc in next dc. Rep from* to
End off. end. 21dc.
Row 2: With RS facing you, attach yarn at side edge Rnd 4: Inc 1dc in each st around. 42dc.
with dc in 2nd dc and in each dc across. 38 [44, 50, 56] Rnd 5: With CC, dc in each dc around. Join.
dc. Turn. Rnd 6: *1dc, 4ch miss one dc. Rep from* to end. Join, 2
Row 3: Dec 1dc at begin and end of row. 36 [42, 48, 54] sl st in next 2ch.
dc. Turn. Rnd 7: With MC *1dc in ch sp, 4ch. Rep from* to end.
Row 4: Dec, 7sl st, dc in next dc until the last 8dc. 7sl st, Join, 2 sl st in next 2ch.
dec last dc. Turn. Rnd 8: As Rnd 7. Just join.
Row 5: Dec, 6sl st, dc in next dc to end, 1 sl st. Turn. Rnd 9: 3ch (counts as first tr).*Work 4tr in ch sp, 1tr in
Row 6: Dec, 4sl st, dc in next dc, 4sl st in last 4dc. Turn. next dc. Rep from* to end. Join.
Row 7: Dec, 4sl st, dc in next dc to last st, 1 sl st. Turn. Rnd 10: 3ch (counts as first tr). Work 1tr in each tr
Row 8: Dec, 3sl st, dc in next dc, 3sl st in last 3dc. Turn. around, join.
Row 9: Dec 1dc at begin and end of row. Turn. Rnds 11-15: As Rnd 10
Rows 10-19: Work Row 9 until remaining 6 [8, 10, 10] Rnd 16: Form the brim with sh st *1dc, miss next
dc. Turn. tr, 6tr into next tr. Rep from * to end of rnd. Join.
Rows 20-29: Work dc in each dc across. Turn. Rnd 17: 3ch, 2tr, *1dc, miss next 3tr, 6tr into next dc.

cold spring
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Rep from *, 3tr into first dc of rnd. Join. 25% off PATTERN SHOWN:
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Rnd 18: *1dc, miss 3tr, 6tr into next dc. Rep from * to yarn & book in Valley Yarns Cold Spring.
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Rnd 19: With CC *1dc, miss 3tr, 5tr into next dc. Rep
from * to end. Join and fasten off.
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Sew 9 beads on flower (1 bead at centre and the rest

around). Sew the flower to one side of the hat.
Hat Tie Cord

With CC, 200ch, turn. 1ch, sl st in 2nd ch from hk and in
each ch. End off.
Add 1 bead to each side of tie. Pass it through Row 15.
The hat is adjustable—tie in a bow to fasten.
Finishing
Embellish top and bottom with faceted and pearlised
yarn.com
beads as shown in pictures. The bikini is swimmable
and washable, because it is made of mercerized cotton. facebook.com/websyarn
twitter.com/kathyelkins &
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Work thin elastic through leg openings and across top/
bottom, if desired. Weave in ends.

Vertical Eyelet
A-Line Dress
By Jude Skeers & Veronica Moschione
Yarn Beautiful Silks Y01 Tussah Ribbon 2mm tape Yarn

100% silk (125g); Beautiful Silks Y02 Fancy Spun 2ply
100% silk (50g)
Needles and notions10mm (US 15) circular needle
80cm; 10mm (US 15) straight needles; 6mm (US 10) DPNs;
3 stitch holders; waste yarn; 17 stitch markers; large eyed
tapestry needle.
Measurements One size, to fit bust 80-95cm (31.5-
37.5inch); length shown 81cm (32inch)
Abbreviations k2tog=knit 2 sts together; M1= pick up
the loop before the next stitch on the left hand needle,
place it on left hand needle and knit in front to create
an eyelet stitch; p2tog=purl 2 sts together; pm=place
marker; sts=stitches; st st=stocking stitch
Notes It is the 100% silk yarn that gives the tunic/dress its
drape and length. Wool yarn will not drape or drop as the silk
does. This garment is knitted up, from the bottom edge to
the shoulders. A provisional cast on is used, and the stitches
are later picked up and the bottom band is worked down and
cast off using the Triple Cast Off method (this is necessary to
give the bottom of the garment flair and flexibility).
A spiral decrease method is used from the bottom edge to the
armholes, for the A-Line shaping. The body is set in 16 panels.
The eyelet pattern is knitted on the last 2 sts of each panel.
A single stitch decrease is moved across to the next panel in
following rounds. A travelling stitch marker is used to denote
the beginning of a decrease panel. The body back is completed
on 7 panels and the front on 9 panels for shaping and best
drape. It is useful to have 15 stitch/panel markers of the same
type/colour, plus a different marker for the end of round, and
another different one as the travelling decrease marker.
Tape yarns are often of a plaited structure. To prevent
unravelling of the end of the tape yarn, sew the yarn end
or make a small knot in the end and trim to within 1cm of
the knot. To join tape yarns in the body of the garment,
sew together (or knot together if you do not sew).
Eyelet Pattern
Round 1: M1, K2tog
Round 2: K
Round 3: K2tog, M1
Round 4: K
This 4 round repeat is for the eyelet pattern and
reference has been made to it throughout the pattern,
so that you can refer back to the Eyelet Pattern to keep
track of pattern rounds.
Body
Using the 10mm (US 15) circular needle cast on 128 (8 x
16) sts with a provisional cast on method and waste yarn.
Join to work in the round being careful not to twist stitches.
Round 1: K
Round 2: * pm K8 *, repeat from * to * to end of round
(16 panel markers placed)
Y24 Silk Tunic top pg38.indd 38 14/10/2011 10:38:34 PM

First full spiral decrease round
Round 3: Decrease in first panel by K2, K2tog, K2, (M1,
K2tog eyelet pattern), place travelling stitch marker, *** K6,
M1, K2tog ***. Repeat from *** to *** 14 more times [127sts].
Round 4 & all even numbered rounds: K
Round 5: Decrease in second panel of st st by * K5, (K2tog,
M1)*, ** remove travelling stitch marker, K2, K2tog, K2,
K2tog, M1, replace travelling stitch marker **, ***K6, K2tog,
M1***. Repeat from *** to *** 13 more times [126 sts].
In each odd round, follow Round 5 and work from * to
* to next decrease panel as indicated by the travelling
stitch marker, work decrease from ** to **, then work
panels from *** to *** to end. Continue until each panel
has 7 sts [112 sts ending with a knit round = 34 rounds].
Second full spiral decrease round

Round 35: Decrease in first panel by K1, K2tog, K2, (M1,
K2tog eyelet pattern), place travelling stitch marker, *** K5,
M1, K2tog ***. Repeat from *** to *** 14 more times [111 sts].
Round 36 & all even numbered rounds: K
Round 37: Decrease in second panel by *K4, (K2tog, M1)*,
**remove travelling stitch marker, K1, K2tog, K2, K2tog,
M1, replace travelling stitch marker**, ***K5, K2tog,
M1***. Repeat from *** to *** 13 more times [110 sts].
In each odd round, follow Round 37, and work from * to *
to next decrease panel as indicated by the travelling stitch
marker, work decrease from ** to **, then work panels from
*** to *** to end. Continue until each panel has 6 sts [66
rounds, finishing on a knit round with 96 sts]. Work next 4
rounds once (and repeat if more length is required), noting
that on your final round, only 94 sts are to be worked.
Round 1: *K4, M1, K2tog* repeat from * to * 15 times
Round 2: K
Round 3: *K4, K2tog, M1* repeat from * to * 15 times
Round 4: K
On final Round 4, stop 2 sts before end of round, to
work 94 sts only. The remaining 2 sts in this round will
become the first 2 sts of Round 1 in Armhole Back.
Back Armhole
Change to straight 10mm (US 15) needles.
Row 1: K6, M1, K2tog, * K4, M1, K2tog * Repeat from * to *
4 times, K6 [44sts]. Leave remaining 52 sts on stitch holder.
Row 2: P1, P2tog, purl to last 3 sts, P2tog, P1
Every purl row is a decrease row until dividing for
the neck. The pattern knit rows continue to keep the
vertical lines while the purl rows decrease until there
are 26 sts [18 Rows].
Divide for shoulders
Row 1: K11 keeping vertical pattern, turn (leave
remaining 15 sts on stitch holder)
Row 2: P1, p2tog, purl to end.
Row 3: K, keeping vertical pattern
Row 4: P1, p2tog, purl to end
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 (decreasing on neck side) until 6
sts remain [10 rows] and cast off.

Rounds 1-4: K1, P1, repeat to end.
Cast off using Triple Cast Off, *Knit into the next stitch,
do not slip off the stitch from the left needle, cast off on the
right needle. Knit into the same stitch, drop the stitch,
and cast off. Knit into the loop between the stitches.
Cast off *; repeat from * to * until end. Secure final stitch
and sew end of tape yarn to prevent unravelling.
Armhole Bands
Using 10mm (US 15) straight needles pick up 58 sts.
Row 1: K1, P1, repeat to the end of the row.
Row 2: P1, K1, repeat to the end of the row.
Cast off using One and a Half Cast Off method, *K 1, knit
into the next stitch, do not slip off the stitch from the left
needle, cast off on the right needle. Knit into the same
stitch, drop the stitch, and cast off. * repeat from * to *
to end cast off.
Finishing
Sew up both shoulder seams. Finish Neck Band by
using 10mm (US 15) circular needle and picking up 64
sts. K1, P1 for two rounds. Cast off using One and a Half
Cast Off method.
Hang the garment on a padded coat hanger, pinning
shoulders to top of the coat hanger. Allow to drop for 24
hours. Measure the length of each eyelet pattern section
Keeping 4 sts on a stitch holder for the centre back, K11 for and write down. Make individual lengths of decorative
the other side of the neck, again keeping the vertical pattern I-cord for each panel, to the length written down (you
in place and decreasing in the same way as for the first side. can substitute with ribbon or leave eyelet holes unfilled).
The cord shown used the tussah silk yarn and 6mm (US
Front Armhole 10) DPNs, with 4 sts. Knit these 4 sts, from left to right.
With remaining 52 sts on holder use straight needles Slide the stitches from one end of the needle to the other
as follows. end. Bring the yarn behind the stitches and knit the
Row 1: * K4, M1, K2tog* - repeat from * to * 7 times, K4. stitches again. The yarn is coming from the last stitch to
Row 2: P1, P2tog, purl to the last 3 sts, P2tog, P1. knit the first stitch. Continue until cord is required length.
The pattern knit rows continue to keep the vertical Cast off, leaving a 12cm (5inch) tail for finishing (repeat
lines while the purl rows decrease until there are 40 sts for each of the 16 eyelet panels). Using a large tapestry
[12 Rows]. needle or weaving needle, thread the I-cord through
Divide for the neck the eyelet panels commencing at the bottom eyelet and
Row 13: K19 sts keeping vertical pattern. Place finishing at the top eyelet in each panel. Adjust for drape
remaining stitches on stitch holder. and then sew the
Row 14: P1, P2tog, purl to last 3 sts, P2tog, P1. I-cord in position
Continue in pattern with these 2 rows decreasing on and finish off.
the both sides at the neck edge 4 times until 11 sts
remain [8 rows].
Row 21: K11 sts keeping vertical pattern.
Row 22: P1, p2tog, purl to end.
Repeat Rows 21 and 22 five more times [10 rows]. Cast
off remaining 6 sts.
Leave the 2 sts at the centre front on the stitch holder. Lady on the left:
Repeat pattern with the remaining 19 sts for the other no I-cord through
side of the front. eyelets.
Bottom Band Lady on the right:

has I-cord through
Transfer 128 sts from the provisional cast-on waste
eyelets.
yarn to the 10mm (US 15) circular needle.

Entrelac
Mini Skirt
Y24 Entrelac skirt pg41.indd 41 14/10/2011 10:41:25 PM

Entrelac Mini
Row 5: p4, turn
Row 6: k4, turn
Row 7: p5, turn
Skirt By Adaline Christie-Johnston

Row 8: k5, turn
Row 9: p6, turn
Row 10: k6, turn
Yarn Cleckheaton Country 8ply 100% wool (50g/1.75oz, Row 11: p7, turn
95m/104yds, 12wpi, equiv Aust 8 ply, CYCA #3, Double Row 12: k7, turn
Knit or Light Worsted) 1 ball each of #1085 yellow, #2294
Row 13: p8, do not turn
purple, #2296 brick, #2300 green (plus extra colour
Rep Rows 1-13 for fifteen more triangles [total 16
# 1962 for Base Triangle if desired). Work and change
colours according to personal choice. Base Triangles].
Needles and notions 3.75mm (US 5) needles; waistband
elastic; tapestry needle. RH Corner Triangle
Finished Measurements Length 37cm (14.5inch); width Row 1 (RS): k2, turn
around hips 93cm (36.5inch) unstretched up to 115cm Row 2 (WS): p2, turn
(45.5inch) when stretched (reduces length to around
Row 3: kfb, ssk, turn
32cm or 12.5inch when stretched widthways to 115cm).
Row 4: p3, turn
Notes Colour #1962 was used for base triangles. Yarn
was ended. Colour #1085 was joined and used for RH Row 5: kfb, k1, ssk, turn
Corner Triangle + RS Rectangles + LH Corner Triangle. Row 6: p4, turn
Yarn was ended. Colour #2294 was joined and used for Row 7: kfb, k2, ssk, turn
WS Rectangles & End Triangles. Yarn was ended, etc. Row 8: p5, turn
Abbreviations WS =wrong side; RS=right side; kfb=knit Row 9: kfb, k3, ssk, turn
into front and back of same st before taking off needle; Row 10: p6, turn
ssk=slip 2 sts knitwise one at a time to the right hand
Row 11: kfb, k4, ssk, turn
needle, insert left hand needle into front of these 2 sts and
knit them together; tog=together; st st=stocking stitch
Row 12: p7, turn
Row 13: kfb, k5, ssk, do not turn
The RH Corner Triangle is complete. Leave 8 sts on
Base triangles RH needle
Cast on 128 sts
Row 1 (WS): p2, turn. RS Rectangles
Row 2 (RS): k2, turn Pick-up row (RS): Pick up and k 8 sts evenly along
Row 3: p3, turn edge of next triangle/rectangle, turn
Row 4: k3, turn Row 1 (WS): p8, turn

Row 2: k7, ssk (with last st of rectangle and 1st st of next Repeat from Row 1 onwards, across row, until 16
triangle/rectangle), turn Rectangles have been worked. Turn.
Row 3-16: Rep rows 1 & 2 seven times. Do not turn at Rep from Pick-up Row (ws) to desired length ending
end of last row. with a LH Corner Triangle completed [1st remains on
Rep Rows 1-16, across whole row [total 15 RS the RH needle]. Do not turn.
Rectangles have been worked].
End Triangles
LH Corner Triangle Pick-up row (WS) pick up and p7sts evenly along edge
Pick-up row (RS): pick up and k 8 sts along edge of last of triangle just worked, to get 8 sts on RH needle, turn.
triangle/rectangle, turn Row 1 (RS): k8, turn
Row 1: p2tog, p6, turn Row 2: p2tog, p5, p2tog, turn
Row 2: k7, turn Row 3: k7, turn
Row 5: p2tog, p4, turn Row 6: p2tog p3, p2tog, turn
Row 11: p2tog, p1, turn Row 12: p2tog, p2tog, turn
Row 13: p2tog, do not turn [1 st remains on RH needle]. Row 14: p2tog, p2tog, pass 1st st over 2nd st [1 st remains
on RH needle]. Do not turn.
WS Rectangles Repeat from Pick-up row (ws), across row, picking up
Pick-up row (WS): Pick up and p7 sts evenly along the sts along edge of rectangle instead of triangle. Fasten
edge of triangle just worked, to get 8 sts on RH needle, turn off remaining st.
Row 1: k8, turn
Row 2: p7, p2tog (with last st of rectangle and first st of Waistband
next triangle/rectangle), turn Pick up every stitch along edge. Knit 1 row. Decrease
Row 3-16: Rep rows 1 & 2 seven times. Do not turn. evenly along next row until 118sts. In st st do 2 rows of
Next row (WS): pick up and p8 sts evenly along edge of each of 3 colours, then 1 row of the 4th colour. Cast off.
next RS rectangle Sew up back. Insert waistband elastic.

Original Justine top
Y24 Skirt Conversion pg44.indd 44 14/10/2011 10:44:47 PM

Garment
repeats of lace pattern completed – 84 (90, 96, 102)
rows. For waist band, increase or decrease at sides, to
obtain a multiple of four (plus 2 extra stitches on the
Reconstruction front, which will be lost when joining). Stitches will be

transfered to a circular needle.
Original design by Justine Donovan, reconstruction by Mae Eastman
Finishing
Yarn Jo Sharp Soho Summer DK 100% cotton (50g/1.75oz,
Sew up side seams with mattress stitch. Place
100m/109yds) equiv Aust 8ply, CYCA #3, Double Knit or
Light Worsted) 4 (5, 5, 6) balls Colour #234 Currant. A waistband stitches on a circular needle and join by
different yarn of choice for waistband, if desired. knitting the two side seam stitches together when you
Needles and notions 6mm (US10) straight and circular come to them. Work waistband in k2, p2 rib until half
needles, 2 stitch holders, tapestry needle. desired length. Work one row as k2, yo, p2tog across
Garment Size petite (small, medium and large) the whole row. Resume with k2, p2 rib on the next row
Finished Size 91 (101.5, 113, 127)cm or 36 (40, 44.5, and until desired length. Cast off loosely. In the sample
50) inches at hips. The pattern is designed to have quite a
pictured, Patons Patonyle sock yarn was used (after
bit of ease and drape.
checking gauge by doing a swatch, it was determined
Tension in Lace pattern 16 stitches and 20 rows to 10cm.
Lace Pattern from Harmony guide #2 “Flower buds”. that I needed 144 stitches using the 4ply yarn with
6mm needles, so I knit into the front and back of each
We are all guilty of holding onto hand knits that we never stitch on the first row, then began the ribbing).
wear, as the time invested makes it impossible for us to
gift them away. In many cases, the designs can be simply Successful Reconstruction Tips
modified, to become something else entirely. In the case of If the original pattern features bust shaping, the
jumpers (sweaters) and tops (shells), we are frequently a garment may not be long enough when pulled back past
similar hip to bust size, so it makes good sense to convert the bust shaping. Measure first, before deciding if you
unused jumpers and tops, into skirts. You can wear lace should proceed.
tops as summer skirts, with swimmers or a stretch knit If the original pattern has significant waist shaping,
skirt/slip underneath and the heavier knits, like Arans, try it on your hip area—it may not make a suitable skirt.
can be worn in winter, with tights and boots. If you are converting a generous jumper, pin the side
seams in, try on, then machine sew new side seams.
This beautiful lace skirt started off life as Justine—a You may prefer to have an elastic casing and not
cotton lace top by Fiona Donovan (the original pattern bother with ribbing.
was in Yarn issue 11). It was hardly worn, so the shoulders If you want to gain a bit of extra length, pull back
were undone and the top sections were pulled back, to only to the armhole shaping and cast off. Make a wide
just before the armhole shaping. There was enough yarn waistband by doubling over a length of stretch knit
(from the frogging plus the original left over yarn) to fabric (preferably with a small percentage of spandex
make a ribbed waist band, but I decided to use a different or lycra) and joining at the centre back seam, then sew
yarn, to show that it could be done. it on as your new waistband. If you make the fabric
extra-long, you can fold the waistband over and alter
The pattern, in this case, would read as: the length to suit.
If you have a very slim waist, you may need to sew
Row 1 (RS) - K3, *yf, K2, p3tog, K2, yf, k1* repeat from* some darts at the back, or bring the side seams in—
to last 2 stitches, K2 remember to allow enough ease to get the skirt over
Row 2 (WS) - Purl your hips OR bust. You may like to include a button and
Repeat these 2 rows twice more. loop to assist.
Row 7 - K2, P2tog, *K2, yf, k1, yf, K2, p3tog repeat from* If you need a side or back closure, do not do your
to last 9 stitches, K2, yf, K1, yf, K2, P2tog, K2 waistband in the round, instead work it backwards and
Row 8 - Purl forwards, casting on extra stitches at one side to allow
Repeat these 2 rows twice more. for an overlap (you may prefer to work these overlap
These 12 rows form the lace pattern. stitches in garter or stocking stitch, not rib). Plan ahead
if you want buttonholes, or alternatively you can use
Back & Front (alike) hooks and eyes or press studs.
Cast on 77(85, 93,101) stitches. For a successful reconstructed skirt, look for a garment
Knit 3 repeats of Lace Pattern (36 rows). made from a high percentage of wool or yarn with high
Continue in Lace Pattern decreasing one stitch each elasticity and recovery, or your skirt will “seat” after
side of rows 37, 43 and 49. (71, 79, 87, 95 stitches.) extended sitting. In the case of the cotton yarn in this
Continue without further shaping until 7 (7.5, 8, 8.5) reconstruction, the skirt is not fitted, so it does not bag.
Y24 Skirt Conversion pg44.indd 45 14/10/2011 10:45:24 PM

By night, with a
light shining
Reflective Tree
Reflective yarn can be used to embroider with by hand
or machine. It can be plied with other yarns or knitted or
woven on its own. It has a rough handle so it is best used
Scarf: Machine
to create highlights away from the face and neck such as
on the end of scarves or on the body of a jumper. It is for
feature parts only, not a whole garment.
or Hand Knit
By Karen Richards
Yarn Bendigo Woollen Mills Classic (200g/7oz,

580m/630yds, 17wpi, equiv Aust 5ply, CYCA #2, Sport
weight) Main Colour Charcoal 1 ball, Contrast Colour
Smoke 1 ball; Grey Reflective Yarn
Needles and notions Dissolvable plastic 30 x 20cm or
12 x 8inch (dissolvable plastic is sold under many brand
names, including Solvey and Avalon); embroidery hoop;
tapestry needle; tracing pen.
Tension 35sts to 10cm (4inch) with 3.25mm (US 3)
needles in st st
Do you love cycling but are not into lycra? Do you want
to be highly visible but not have to wear a safety vest?
Then reflective yarn is for you! Reflective yarn is a new
yarn which is available online, but is not widely available
in traditional yarn stores yet. It is made from thin
strips of PVC coated in thousands of tiny, light reflective
beads. Essentially it is the same material as the grey
high visibility strips on work safety vests, but now it is
available as a yarn which can be embroidered, knitted
or woven into your own stylish designs. You can make a
scarf which by day looks like a funky hand knit but in dim
light shines bright silver.
Y24 Reflect tree scarf pg46.indd 46 14/10/2011 10:46:16 PM

By day, with
no reflective
light source
Scarf embroidery without a big knot. Pull your thread through

Cast on 100 sts. Work in st st (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) from the back to the front leaving a 10cm (4inch) tail of
until 75cm (29.5)inch from cast on edge. Change to thread on the back of the scarf. Stitch 4 running stitches
Contrast Colour and work 10 rows. Change back to along the lines of the pattern. Running stitch is made by
Main Colour and work 10 rows. Change to Contrast pushing the needle from the front to the back of the scarf
Colour and work 16 rows. Change back to Main Colour and then from the back to the front to make a dashed
and work 10 rows. Change to Contrast Colour and work or broken line. Turn over and thread the 10cm (4inch)
10 rows. Change back to Main Colour and work an tail of thread onto another needle. Stitch the tail into
additional 40cm or (16)inch. Cast off. the running stitches and pull tight. Trim thread close to
Lightly hand wash in hot, soapy water, then rinse in the fabric. Stitch the design. When you get back to the
cool water, to slightly full (shrink) your scarf. This will start stitch the design again but off set the first stitch so
make the embroidery easier to work. Be careful not to that the gaps in the design are filled in. When you have
full your knitting too much as the fabric will become too finished embroidering the tree, stitch the left over thread
stiff. Block to prevent the edges rolling. into the back of the running stitches and trim. Embroider
Trace the tree design on to dissolvable plastic using a the leaves in the same way. When the design is stitched,
tracing pen. Use a contrasting colour to the scarf colour. wash away the dissolvable plastic in warm water. Rinse
Pin your traced design on to the end of the scarf so and block once more. Your design is now fully reversible.
that the base of the tree is close to the end of the scarf. Karen Richards is an artist who works mostly in
Pin down well. The plastic will stabilise any stretch embroidery and produces a range of Swanky Hankies.
in the wool, as well as being a stitch guide. Place in an Karen teaches machine embroidery and drawing at
embroidery hoop. This keeps the scarf taut, making it SWTAFE, occasionally writes for magazines and exhibits
easier to maintain an even tension. Thread your needle regularly. In 2009 she won the PFAFF International
with 2 strands of reflective yarn, doubled over to make Embroidery Excellence Award. Reflective yarn can be
4 strands altogether. As you want the front and back purchased via ebay or www.etsy.com or by contacting
of the scarf to look the same you need to start your enquiries@karenrichards.net
Y24 Reflect tree scarf pg46.indd 47 14/10/2011 10:47:29 PM

Postcard from
Cumbria
by Helen Rippin Wensleydale Sheep
Down Under to Cumbria

On a visit to friends in 2010 a discussion was had about doing
Woolfest the following year. I had lived in the UK for 25 years and
on return to Australia in 2004, had intended to revisit to do some
of the shows that I did when I lived there. Due to various things,
this revisit did not actually happen until 2011. The idea to bring
my own hand dyed fibres to Woolfest expanded when I asked
some fellow Australian wool producers and dyers to come in with
me. Waratah Fibres Plus was born, with the intention of bringing
a taste of Australia to this Cumbrian event.
Woolfest was started in June 2004 by the Wool Clip to help

celebrate nature’s finest fibres. The Wool Clip is a Co-operative
which was formed by a number of wool craft workers in response
to the ravages of foot and mouth disease in Cumbria. The main
objective at the time was to help local farmers and artisans to
add value to their products and help restart the local economy.
They have a shop in Caldbeck in the Lake District brimming with
amazing knitwear, felted goods, fibre and weavings, all reflecting
the variety of artists and producers in Cumbria.
I invited Wendy Dennis of Tarndwarncoort with her Polwarth

products, Gill Venn from Fibreworks and Pam Goble of Lara
Downs Mohair. My idea was to try for a mix of Australian products
and to show that even though we live “down under” we have some
great Indie dyers and producers. I had hoped to visit a few Guilds
and also to do Stocksfield Gathering. The Gathering, organised by
the Tynedale Guild of Weavers, Spinners and Dyers, takes place in
Erin and Oessant Lamb the village hall in Stocksfield, Northumberland. It is a celebration
of friendship, spinning, weaving and good company. Traders
are invited and the ladies of Tynedale Guild
provide a sumptuous lunch which is shared
with everyone, visitors and traders alike. It was
a great day for me as I used to exhibit there
regularly and managed to meet up with several
friends and customers from my English days of
workshops and shows.
I am blessed with some very tolerant friends

in the UK who received the various parcels that
winged their way there. It was rather difficult
to decide how much to send. Doing shows in
Australia involves stuffing as much as you can
into your car. England is a different kettle of
fish. I had no car and I had to rely on friends’
good nature to store all this fibre until I arrived.
Spare bedrooms were beginning to look like
wool shops.
Manor House demo Peg looms
Y24 Postcard pg48.indd 48 14/10/2011 10:48:36 PM

The venue for Woolfest is held at Mitchell’s Lakeland Livestock Centre in Cockermouth in the Lake District. This is an
Auction Mart and your stall space is effectively a sheep pen or cattle pen. Metal bars have to be covered up and turned into
a fibre selling point. No mean feat when you have done all the planning from 12,000 miles away.
Friday dawned bright and sunny but not too hot. After setting up the day before there was time for a quick stroll round
to catch up with friends who also had stalls here and of course to look at the other vendors. Every fibre and piece of
equipment was represented. Oliver Twists had a huge variety of dyed silk which is their speciality, Organic Wool was
represented as well as lots of vendors selling hand dyed fibres and yarns. I found some beautiful spindles made on the
Isle of Wight, one of which just had to come home with me. I did resist where the fibre was concerned but have of course
made inquiries.
My love of the English sheep breeds is still very much alive and I will still try to bring these amazing fibres to your
attention here in Australia. They have character even if they are stronger than the Merino or Corriedale that are widely
used here. One thing that I did notice was the strong resurgence in the use of British Wool. And the strong interest in
spinning fleece again. This was reflected in the fact that over two days, 500 fleeces were sold. These fleeces came from a
variety of farmers from around the whole of England, with Herdwicks, Wensleydales, Teeswaters, Shetlands, Ryelands to
name but a few. The variety and abundance of fleece was staggering.
Around the rest of the venue a variety of stalls were there to tempt all the visitors that had started to drift in. Ashford
UK had a very big and vibrant stall with lots of demonstrations of spinning, carding and weaving. Manor House Studio,
run by friends of mine, Sue and Martin Robinson, ran 4 peg loom demonstrations throughout the two days and always had
their 10 peg looms in use with people busy learning the art of rug making. Carol Leonard from Spindlers2 was on hand to
demonstrate the art of spindle spinning. She and her husband Pete are both spindle spinners and teach at various venues
during the year.
Every piece of equipment that may be needed for spinning, weaving, carding and felting was on display.
Finished items were also available with The Wool Clip themselves well represented, with a big display from all the Co-
Operative’s many talented members. The local Guilds of Weavers, Spinners and Dyers were on hand to give advice and
to attract new members. Local Sheep Breed Societies like the British Coloured Sheep Breeders were there with animals,
fleece and yarn. Other societies that were represented included Shetland Sheep Society, West End Wensleydales, North
Ronaldsay Sheep Fellowship, British Gotland Society, and the Rare Breeds Survival Trust. Greenlands Farm Village brought
his Oessant sheep which were the smallest sheep with the tiniest, cutest lambs. Angora goats and alpacas were represented.
Woolfest is a very successful show and I was encouraged that people seem to be concerned with the environment and
the air miles that are needed to get products around the world. This is, of course, good for the British wool industry, and
since much of the wool production worldwide is now in China, perhaps we all need to be more aware of local products and
build on this awareness. All in all, it was a great experience and it was fun to catch up with friends and acquaintances from
my time in the UK and to do some priceless networking. I hope to be back again in the not too distant future.
Wool starts here ...
Y24 Postcard pg48.indd 49 14/10/2011 10:49:17 PM

yarn related yumminess . . .
1 2
Noro Silk Garden Sock Yarn is perfect anytime of
the year, but in summer it really comes into its
own. There is 100g (3.5oz) and 300m (330yds)
yum
per ball and it is available from Michelle
at The Knitters Studio on (02) 9428 5296 or
www.theknittersstudio.com.au The
colour shown is S258 and quite
a few of the patterns in the
new Knit Noro book feature
Silk Garden Sock Yarn.
Michelle also stocks
Noro pattern books. From the sheep’s back to the finished yarn, Moseley
Park ARGUS yarn is 100% Australian. Jane grows
the sheep herself, sends the wool down the road
(to Bendigo) to be processed, after which she hand
dyes it. ARGUS is an 8ply weight yarn, 70% English
Leicester x Merino and 30% English Leicester Lambs
yum wool, perfect for jumpers and outer garments. Visit

www.moseleyparkhome.com or call (08) 8627 2215
and show the sheep (and Jane) some love.
yarn related yumminess . . .

3 A unique collection of ‘Quick Knits’ knitting
kits designed by Jo Nathan are available
from www.thehouseofalpaca.com.au Five
easy, quick, chunky knits to choose from. 4
Kits include all you need to start knitting (yarn, Indigo Inspirations hand
needles, pattern) in a take anywhere carry bag. painted wool comes in
Prices start from $38.00. 50g packs, in a variety of
colourways. Hand dyed yarns
are available to match. Visit
www.indigoinspirations.net.au
or call Jo on (02) 6684 4138.
yum 5
If you are looking for some stocking
stuffers or last minute gifts,
FibreArtsRoad.com can enable you
with their supply of Laurel Hill Knitting
needles and crochet hooks (made from
sustainable resources). It’s their way
to help keep it a little more green.
Y24 Yarn Review pg50.indd 50 14/10/2011 10:50:18 PM

yarnmarket
 

 

 
 


 
 

STOCKISTS OF • Denise Knitting Needle Kits • Pear Tree
Merino • Ashford Wheels, Yarns, Looms
and Fibres • Silk and Banana Silk Yarns
• Lorna’s Laces • Noro • Eki Riva • Addi
• Opal • Lotus Yarns • Spinning Fibres
including hand-dyed BFL and Merino
www.craftalley.com.au
Help your new customers find you
Advertise here
on a short or
long term
Out Now! basis.
Distribution through newsagents, select craft stores. Contact Michelle or Kylie:
(02) 6687 4002 or visit www.artwearpublications.com.au thegirls@artwearpublications.com.au
Y24 yarn MARKET pg51.indd 51 14/10/2011 10:52:01 PM

stitch guide
I-cord Cast on the required number of sts onto a dpn. Knit each stitch. Slide the sts
Knit stitches abbreviations to the other end of the dpn and
do not turn. (1) Bring the working 1 2
*, ** repeat directions following * or ** as many
times as indicated yarn behind the work and (2) knit
alt alternate the sts again. Continue until cord is
CC contrast colour required length.
cm centimetre(s)
dec(s) decrease(s)/decreasing
dpn(s) double-pointed needle(s)
foll following
inc(s) increase(s)/increasing
g st garter stitch: k all rows (back and forth); in
rounds, work 1 round knit, next round purl
K, k knit
k2tog knit 2 sts together (decs 1 st; a right-leaning dec) 1 2 3
kfb knit into the front and back of the same st
(incs 1 st)
m metre(s)
m1 make 1 (raised increase)
m1L make 1 leaning left
m1R make 1 leaning right
MC main colour 4 5 6
mm millimetre(s) Grafting (Kitchener stitch) Leave a tail about 3 times the width of the knitting to
P, p purl
be grafted. Thread yarn onto a blunt needle. Holding needles parallel with WS of work
PM, pm place marker
together, work two set-up stitches: (1) put the sewing needle in the first stitch of the
psso pass slipped stitch over
p2tog purl two sts together. front knitting needle purlwise and pull yarn all the way through, keeping the stitch on
RS right side the knitting needle. Next put the sewing needle knitwise into the first stitch of the back
skp slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over knitting needle and pull all the way through. Keep the stitch on the needle. (2) Put sewing
Sl, sl, s slip needle knitwise into first stitch of the front knitting needle and pull the yarn all the way
Sm, sm slip marker through. Drop the stitch off the knitting needle. (3) Put sewing needle purlwise into the
ssk slip, slip, knit the 2sts tog (left leaning dec) next stitch on the front knitting needle and pull through, keeping the stitch on the knitting
st(s) stitch(es) needle. (4) Put sewing needle purlwise into first stitch on back knitting needle and pull
st st stocking stitch: k one row, p one row (flat); k yarn through. Drop the stitch off the knitting needle. (5) Put sewing needle knitwise into
all rows (circular knitting) the next stitch on the back knitting needle and pull through. Do not drop the stitch off
tbl work st(s) through back of loop(s) the knitting needle. (6) Repeat Steps 2–5 until all sts have been worked.
tog together
WS wrong side
yb yarn back Knitting into the front and back of a st (kfb) Insert right needle through st to be
yf yarn forward. Makes a st on a K row by knit and knit as usual (1) with
moving yarn to front of work under right 1 2
hand needle. out sliding it off the needle.
yo yarn over. See also ‘yrn’ (2) Insert the tip of the right
yrn yarn round needle. Before a purl st must go needle through the back of the
fully around the needle.
same st, knit as usual, sliding it
off the left needle.
Three-needle join/cast off Bring together two
pieces of knitting on separate needles, right sides facing.
The near needle is the ‘front’ needle, and the other M1 Insert the left needle from the front to back of the horizontal loop between the
the ‘back’ needle. Insert tip of a third needle knitwise two stitches. Knit the stitch through the back loop as shown.
through both the first st on front needle and the first
st on the back needle. Knit the two together onto the
third needle. Repeat the same manoeuvre on the next
st on the front and back needles, giving you two sts on
the right needle. To work as a cast off, simply lift
the first stitch on the right needle and drop it over the
second in the usual manner. Continue this way, knitting
two together off the paired needles and casting sts off
right needle, until only one st remains on right needle. Slip, slip, knit (ssk) (left-leaning decrease) Slip two sts knitwise, one at a time,
Break thread and draw the last loop closed. from the left needle to the right needle. Slide the tip of left needle through the front
of the two sts and knit them together. Decreases 1 st.
Knitting symbol fonts from Aire River Design
1 2 3 4
Crochet symbol fonts from © Adri H. 2009, StitchinCrochet™
Wrap and turn (short-row wraps) On a knit row:

yf, sl 1, yb, return sl st to left-hand needle, turn and work
back across without working wrapped st. On a purl row,
yb, sl 1, yf, return sl st to left-hand needle, turn work and Working through the back of a loop (tbl) (1) k tbl: Put the needle through the back
work back across without working wrapped st. loop of the st as shown. (2) p tbl: put the needle through the back of the stitch from left
Working wrap with st When working a knit row, to right. (3) k2togtbl Knit two stitches together by putting the right needle through the
insert needle from below into the wrap and k wrap back loops of two stitches at once. (4) p2togtbl Purl 2 sts together by putting the right
together with the st as directed. needle through the back loops of the two sts at the same time from left to right.
Y24 stitch guide pg52.indd 52 14/10/2011 10:53:18 PM

stitch guide
Ultimate Yarn Conversion Guide
* The 1 & 2 ply yarns are normally used for open worked, lace patterns so the stitch
count and needle size can vary tremendously depending on the project.
** Steel crochet hook sizes may differ from regular hooks.
This table complied by Michelle Moriarty, referencing various Encyclopedias, USA
CYCA Standards, Knitpicks, Nancy’s Knit Knacks, Ravelry and in consultation with
Amelia Garripoli. © This table is copyright to Yarn Magazine.
To make a dtr (double-treble) you need a turning chain of

four stitches. Wrap yarn around hook twice. (1) Insert hook
1 into the stitch you’re crocheting into, swirl hook and (2) pull
yarn through stitch (4 loops on hook). Swirl hook and pull yarn
through two loops (3 loops on hook). Swirl hook and pull yarn
through two loops (2 loops on hook). Swirl hook and pull yarn
through remaining two loops.
2
To start a sl st (slip stitch) or
dc (double crochet): (1) insert
the hook into the next stitch, pick To make a ttr (triple-treble, or treble-treble crochet) you
up the yarn with the hook and pull need a turning chain of five stitches. Wrap yarn around hook three
it through the st to the front. To times. (1) Insert your hook into the stitch you’re crocheting into
complete a sl st pull the loop all swirl hook and (2) pull yarn through stitch (5 loops on hook). Swirl
the way through the second loop. hook and pull yarn through two loops (4 loops on hook). Swirl
To complete a dc (2) pick up the hook and pull yarn through two loops (3 loops on hook). Swirl
yarn with the hook again and pull it hook and pull yarn through two loops (2 loops left on hook). Swirl
through the two loops. hook and pull yarn through remaining two loops.
To make a htr
(half-treble
crochet) or a tr Crochet stitches - We say torch, you say flashlight.
(treble crochet) Australian/UK North American
(1) pick up the yarn chain (ch) chain (ch)
with the hook. (2) double crochet (dc) single crochet (sc)
1 2 Insert the hook into treble crochet (tr) double crochet (dc)
the next st, catch
half treble crochet (htr) half double crochet (hdc)
the yarn with the hook and pull it through to the front (3 loops on hook). To complete a htr, catch the yarn
double treble (dtr) treble crochet (tr)
again and pull it through all 3 loops. To complete a tr, catch the yarn again and pull it through the first 2 loops
on the hook; pick up the yarn with the hook again and pull it through the rem 2 loops on the hook. In (2) you slip stitch (sl st) slip stitch (ss)
can also see the effect of working sl sts across a row to decrease. Here, 4 sts have been decreased. triple treble (ttr) double treble (dtr)
miss skip (sk)
Y24 stitch guide pg52.indd 53 14/10/2011 10:53:56 PM

yarn logo listings
PHONE: EMAIL:
BATIK (02) 4943 8808 SockWool@sheenas.co.nz

WEB: WEB:
OETORO www.dyeman.com www.sheenas.co.nz
PHONE: PHONE:
(08) 8296 3428 (03) 5251 2497
EMAIL: EMAIL:
info@bellatextiles.com.au shiloh40@bigpond.com
SPINNING & WEAVING SUPPLIES
EMAIL: EMAIL:
treasurer@creativefibre.org.nz spacefrogyarns@gmail.com
WEB: WEB:
www.creativefibre.org.nz www.etsy.com/shop/Spacefrog
PHONE:
(03) 5790 8677
spindles by ADDRESS:
PO Box 333 Cygnet TAS 7112
Malcolm Fielding
WEB: WEB:
Granite Haven Llamas fine craftsmanship
www.granitehavenllamas.com.au in beautiful woods http://www.etsy.com/shop/MalcolmFielding
PHONE: PHONE:
HAWTHORNE 0418551081 (03) 6381 5466
COTTAGE
WEB: WEB:
YARNS www.hawthornecottage.com.au www.taswoolcentre.com.au
PHONE: PHONE:
(03) 6496 1942 (03) 6234 1711
WEB: WEB:
www.highlandfelting.com www.tasmanianwoolco.com
PHONE: PHONE:
(08) 8389 6417 0425 702 001
WEB: WEB:
www.kathysfibres.com www.thecraftcircle.com.au
PHONE: PHONE:
+64 (4) 476 3278 (03) 5250 5152
WEB: EMAIL:
www.knittingpretty.co.nz sales@thenakedsheep.com.au
PHONE: PHONE:
0409 08 1822 (03) 6496 1942
WEB: WEB:
www.knitknacs.com.au www.tasmanianfibre.com.au
EMAIL: PHONE:
sales@knitworld.co.nz (02) 6337 5774
WEB: WEB:
www.knitworld.co.nz www.valleyfibres.com.au
PHONE: PHONE:
Moseley (08) 8627 2215 (03) 9458 3101
Park WEB:
www.moseleyparkhome.com
woolybutt
knitting
WEB:
www.woolybutt.com au
MOBILE: EMAIL:
0422 983 053 sales@woolandyarn.com.au
WEB: WEB:
www.onabee.com www.woolandyarn.com.au
Y24 logo listing pg54.indd 54 14/10/2011 10:54:59 PM

classifieds
CLASSIFIEDS
Books Yarns, Fibres and Supplies Yarns, Fibres and Supplies
Colonial Lake Books WirraWorra Natural Virginia Farm

Imported Craft Books, Australia-wide mailing Coloured Wools Wool Works
service. Catalogue at Soft 8 ply knitting yarn in Sydney’s specialist spinning
www.coloniallakebooks.com.au 11 beautiful natural shades and felting shop
email to bartel@coloniallakebooks.com.au Carded Wool Tops & Raw Fleece for handspinning Wheels, Carders and Looms
Brenda Bartel Large Carded Needled Batts for feltmaking Dyes, Fibres, Hand dyed tops
PO Box 1623 Kersbrook SA 5231 Sample Cards available Silk and wool yarns
Ph (08) 8389 3404 Fax (08) 8389 3547 Artisan Lace Yarn distributor
24 Seventh Street
Visit us or Mail Order
Gawler SA 5118
02 9654 1069
Yarns, Fibres and Supplies ph/fax 08 8522 2169
www.virginiafarmwoolworks.com.au
Nancy 0400 247 511
Fibre Scour – Stockists BennettandGregor@gmail.com Fibres & Threads
(see advert pg 41) www.bennettandgregor.com Tasmanian owned & operated.
Kraftkolour Thomastown Vic Hand spun yarns,hand dyed or natural
Glenora Weaving & Wool
ph. 03 9460 6432 colours. Fleece from our sheep, alpacas
The Mail Order Specialists
Ewe Give Me The Knits, Tongala, Vic and angora goats. Handmade Stitch Markers
WEAVING YARNS FOR KNITTERS!
ph. 03 5859 1006 and Brooches. Silk Threads 210/2,
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Mohair Yarns plus Fibre
Freelance Fibres, Taree, NSW shades. Hand painted Merino and
Free Catalogue Available.
ph. 02 6550 6042 English Leicester rovings.
Huge colour ranges plus brilliant
Garments & Gadgets, garmentsandgadgets.com.au Beautiful silk yarns 3ply - 8ply.
hand-dyed shades!
ph. 0419 212 476 Sari silk yarns in stunning colours.
Ph 02 4234 0422
Lara Downs Mohair & Merino, Balliang, Vic Buttons, Wool Winders, Skein Holders.
ph. 0417 549 213 Christine@Glenoraweaving.com.au Tassie Wild Fibres; possum, wallaby and rabbit.
Oatlands Handmade, Oatlands, Tas www.Glenoraweaving.com.au Farm Shop Ph: (03) 64384144
ph. 036254 1391 Email: cherylmatthews@westnet.com.au
RebeccA’s of Battery Point, Hobart, Tas OPENDRAWER
ph. 03 6223 6013 Opendrawer is a stimulating setting for like- Bilby Yarns
Shiloh Wool, Drysdale, Vic ph. 03 5251 2497 minded people to come together to look, do, Our naturally coloured pure wool yarns &
Tasmanian House of Fibre, Railton, Tas buy and share ideas. We are an Australian wool tops are processed without added
ph. 03 6496 1942 made business that features handmade chemicals and are made exclusively from
Uralla Wool Room, NSW ph. 02 6778 4226 work from Australian artists and artisans. It West Australian wool grown by members of
Nundle Woollen Mills, Nundle, NSW comprises a retail gallery, art gallery, textile Melanian Sheep Breeders Society of Aust.
ph. 02 6769 3330 supplies including a wonderful range of
handspun and hand dyed yarns. www.melaniansheepbreeders.com
Some spinners & weavers groups have Fibre Open from 10am Closed Tuesday. www.bilbyyarns.com.au
Scour for wool & natural fibres available to their www.opendrawer.com.au bilbyarn@tpg.com.au www.bilbyyarns.com
members. If you would like to become a stockist Fax [08] 9331 8898 Ph: [08] 9331 8818
please contact us via the advert on page 41. HANDSPINNERS AND WEAVERS
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YARNSOFT Handspun yarns for knitting, weaving. Wool, Weekend & Porongurup Spin-In
Beautiful soft yarns from home and abroad. alpaca, mohair for spinning and felting. Fibre arts including spinning, weaving,
Free Aust wide postage for orders over $120. Adelaide stockist for Fibreworks and Bendigo basketry, natural dyes, held in two beautiful
We stock bamboo, cotton, merino, alpaca, tops. Handknitted and woven garments and locations adjoining National Parks.
Addi, Clover, patterns and much more for all more. Little Glory Gallery 196 South Road, Porongurup spin-in Thursday 29th March
your knitting needs. Mile End. Wed & Sat 11am-3.00pm, Sun 2012 at Porongurup Hall, Porongurup Rd,
www.yarnsoft.com.au 1pm-4pm. Ph (08) 8352 4843 east of Mt Barker.
Sarah 0438 360 299 E: spinweavesa@gmail.com Stirling Range Fibre Weekend
Email sales@yarnsoft.com.au sites.google.com/site/handspinweavesa/ Friday 30th March - Sunday 1st April 2012
Stirling Range Retreat,
Chester Pass Road, Borden
www.denmarkwa.biz/fibre
or ‘phone (08) 9840 8098 for a mail-out,
including information about accommodation.
Advertise in our classifieds!

$75 (incl GST) for up to 40 words
(image extra). For more info,
contact us at
michelle@artwearpublications.com.au
(02) 6687 4002.
Y24 class n calend pg55.indd 55 14/10/2011 10:55:54 PM

Yarn Issue 24 Advertisers Index
Advertiser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page Sarah Durrant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Ashford New Zealand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . IFC Sassafras Wool Store . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Australian Country Spinners . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Sheena’s Socks ‘n’ Wool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Australian Organic Wool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Shiloh Wool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Batik Oetoro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Signature Needle Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Beautiful Silks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Spacefrog Knits and Yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Bella Textiles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Spindles by Malcolm Fielding . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Bendigo Woollen Mills . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Stirling Fibre Retreat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Bilby Yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Stitch’n Time . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
ArtWear Publications is proud
Can Do Books . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Stranded in Oz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
to announce that from August
Colonial Lake Books . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Sunspun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
2011 onwards we will be the new Craft Alley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 TAFTA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
publishers of Textile Fibre Forum. Creative Fibre NZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Tailored Strands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Janet De Boer will stay on as Ecoyarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Tantech . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
editor and the local Australian Evoke Designer Yarns & Fabrics . . . . . . . . 51 Tarndwarncoort Polwarth Wool . . . . . . . 51
subscription price will be Fibre Arts Road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Tasmanian House of Fibre . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
reduced. What an outcome! Fibres & Threads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Tasmanian Wool Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Fibre Scour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Tasmanian Woollen Co . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
www.artwearpublications.com.au Fibreworks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 The Craft Circle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Glenora Weaving & Wool . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 The House of Alpaca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Granite Haven Llamas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 The Knitter’s Studio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Handspinners & weavers SA . . . . . . . . . . . 55 The Naked Sheep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Hawthorne Cottage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 The Spindle Tree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Highland Felting & Fibre Supplies . . . . . . . 54 The Thread Studio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Kathy’s Fibres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Uralla Wool Room . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Knitter’s Addiction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Valley Fibres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Knitting Pretty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Virginia Farm Wool Works . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Knit Knacs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Waratah Fibres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Knit World . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Webs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Lara Downs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Wirraworra Wool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Moseley Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Wool and Yarn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Needle Nook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Woolshed @ Manuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Onabee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Woolybutt Knitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Opendrawer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Yarn Over . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Puchka Peru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 YarnSoft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Rainbow Wools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Yay! for Yarn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Y24 class n calend pg55.indd 56 14/10/2011 10:56:29 PM

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Volume 11

The Australian magazine for knitting and more Issue 24

• Problem solving • Annie Modesitt lace design

Extra W I D E Drum Carder WIN AN EXTRA

Wild Drum Carder

Ashford Handicrafts Ltd, Ashburton, New Zealand www.ashford.co.nz

Yarn24 IFC.indd 1 14/10/2011 7:09:57 PM

YARN Issue 24/December 2011

Co-editors and publishers

 Cast on  Patterns continued

 Features Reﬂective Tree Scarf Karen Richards . . . . . . 46

Please address comments, letters, and inquiries to

All contents © YARN Magazine 2011. The

YARN ® is a registered trademark of Yarn

Y24 contents pg 1.indd 1 14/10/2011 7:11:39 PM

2 YARN Issue No 24 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y24 editors & letters pg 2n3.indd 2 14/10/2011 7:12:32 PM

Love for Liz

For the Love of Flowers

Metromatic Lamp Envy

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 24 YARN 3

Y24 editors & letters pg 2n3.indd 3 14/10/2011 7:13:17 PM

groove may be too large to contain an ultrafine thread.

4 YARN Issue No 24 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y24 book reviews pg 4n5.indd 4 14/10/2011 7:14:15 PM

Sock lovers will salivate over

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 24 YARN 5

Y24 book reviews pg 4n5.indd 5 14/10/2011 7:15:47 PM

Solving sleeves or even sleeveless be ok? Could the jumper

6 YARN Issue No 24 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y24 Lace liz part 3 pg6.indd 6 14/10/2011 7:17:06 PM

Garment too long

No Longer like the colour

Garment too small

Owners of Elizabeth Zimmerman’s “Knitting Without

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 24 YARN 7

Y24 Lace liz part 3 pg6.indd 7 14/10/2011 7:17:37 PM

How to undo knitting

Slack or sloppy ribbing

For purl stitches, pull the rows of purl “bumps” apart

• Thread some shirring elastic onto a tapestry

8 YARN Issue No 24 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Y24 Lace liz part 3 pg6.indd 8 14/10/2011 7:18:08 PM

Grafting ribbing or any patterned fabric can only be

See the Stitch Guide for Grafting (Kitchener Stitch).

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 24 YARN 9

Y24 Lace liz part 3 pg6.indd 9 14/10/2011 7:19:00 PM

Y24 Cupric Shawl pg10.indd 10 14/10/2011 7:20:47 PM

Yarn Ecoyarns Qoperfina 50% Organic Baby Alpaca, 48%

Written instructions for chart:

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 24 YARN 11

Y24 Cupric Shawl pg10.indd 11 14/10/2011 7:21:31 PM

Y24 Red Lace Bag pg12.indd 12 14/10/2011 10:01:49 PM

Yarn Jo Sharp Soho Summer 100% cotton (50g/1.75oz,

needle through front of 2 slipped sts and knit together.

Bottom of Bag (worked flat)

Spiral Stitch Bag Body (worked in the round)

www.artwearpublications.com.au Issue No 24 YARN 13

Y24 Red Lace Bag pg12.indd 13 14/10/2011 10:02:29 PM

14 YARN Issue No 24 www.artwearpublications.com.au

Round 1: K5, VDD, k5, VDI repeat from 12 (14, 16,