Invertor 5000watt
Invertor 5000watt
Invertor 5000watt
a heavy duty design of a Pulse Width Modulator DC/AC inverter using the chip SG3524 .
I've been using it as a backup to power up all my house when outages occur since aprox. 6 years non stop.
If you like the work and intend to build the circuit don't forget to click on the "follow" button so I know how
many people benefit from the design, Thanks.
Notes:
1> The schematic circuit design is for a 250 watt output, while the pics are of my 1500 watts inverter that i
built, to increase the power of the circuit you have to add more of the Q7 and Q8 transistors in parallel, each
pair you add will increase your power by 250 watts, ex: to get 750 watts of power from the inverter you need to
add in parallel 2 of Q7 and 2 of Q8 to the original design.
2> If you increase the power transistors you have to enlarge the T2 transformer to match the new needs, the
circuit's transformer is rated 25 amps to handle 250 watts of 220v, for every 1 additional amp you need on the
220v side you have to increase 10 amps on the 12v side, of course there are limits to the thickness of the
winding so if you need more than 750 watts i recommend that you use a 24VDC supply instead of 12 volts:
3> R1 is to set the PWM duty cycle to 220v. Connect voltmeter to the output of your inverter and vary VR1 till
the voltage reads 220V.
4> R2 is to set the frequency to 50 or 60 Hz (R2 range is between 40Hz to 75Hz), so guys that do not have a
frequency meter are advised to blindly put this variable resistor mid-way which should drop you in the range of
50~60 Hz.
If you want you can substitue the variable resistor with a fixed resistor using the following formula: F = 1.3 /
(RxC)
in our case to get a 50Hz output we remove both the 100K and the variable 100K both from pin 6 and we put
instead a 260K fixed resistor and we leave the 0.1uF (the 104 cap) as it is, this change should give out a fixed
50Hz as per the formula :
1.3 / (260,000 ohm x 0.0000001 farad) = 50Hz
But in reality it will not exactly give 50Hz because the 260K resistor has a specific error value margin so does
the capacitor, that's why i recommend a variable resistor so that accurate calibration can be achieved.
5> Use either tantalum or polyester film "as in pic" for the 104 caps, ceramic disc caps change value once hot
and this in turn changes the frequency of the inverter so they are not recommended.
6> Pin 10 of the SG3524 can be used to auto shut down the inverter, once a positive voltage is given instead
of negative to pin10, the SG3524 will stop oscillating. This is useful for persons wanting to add some cosmetic
makeup to their inverters like overload cutoff, low battery cutoff or overheating cutoff.
7> Wiring connections on the power stage side should be thick enough to handle the huge amps drain from the
batteries. I marked them with dark black on the schema also I included a pic so you see how thick those wires
must be.
8> The design does not include a battery charger since each person will be building a custom version of the
inverter with specific power needs. If you are ordering a custom made transformer you can ask them to take out
for you an additional output wire on the primary side to give 14v (between point 0 and this new wire) and use it
to charge a 12v battery, of course this needs a seperate circuit to control charging auto cut-off. But anyway this
is not advisable because it will shorten the life of the transformer itself since using it as a charger will toast the
enamel coating layer of the copper wires over time. Anyway .. YES can be done to reduce cost.
9> A cooling fan will be needed to reduce heat off the heat sinks and transformer, i recommend getting a 220v
fan and connecting it to the output T2 transformer, when you power up the circuit the fan will start this will
always give you a simple way to know that 220v is present and everything is OK.. You can use a computer's
old power supply fan if you like.
Note that the fan must suck air out from the inverter case and NOT blow inside, so install it the correct way or it
will be useless.
Also note how I fixed both the heat sinks and where the fan is, in a way that the fan sucks hot air from like
a channel between the 2 heatsinks.
10> 2 circuit breakers are recommended instead of fuses, one on the DC side and one on the AC side,
depending on your design
Ex: for a 24vDC ( 1500 watts design ) put a 60Amp breaker on the DC side and a 6Amp on the AC side.
For every 1amp of 220vAC you will be draining like 8 to 10 Amps from the 12v battery, make your
calculations !
11> The 2 Heat sinks should be big enough to cool the transistors, they are separate and should NOT touch
each other. "see the pics"
12> Important: If you're building a big design that uses more than 24VDC as power source, make sure not to
supply the driver circuit with more than 24v maximum. (EX: If you have 4 batteries 4x12 = 48v , connect the
v+ supply of the driver circuit to the second battery's (+) terminal with a thin 1 mm wire which is more than
enough. this supplies the driver circuit with +24v while supplies the power transformer with +48v) "see the
batteries pic example"
13> "Optional" : Deep Cycle batteries are your best choice, consider them for best results .. read more
14> Be cautious when building this circuit it involves high voltage which is lethal, any part you touch when the
circuit is ON could give you a nasty painful jolt, specially the heat-sinks, never touch them when the circuit is
on to see if the transistors are hot !! I ate it several times :)
15> The optional "Low voltage warning" is already embedded in the PCB layout, you can disregard it and not
install it's components if you do not needed. It does not affect the functionality of the main circuit.
16> The Motorola 2N6277 is a durable heavy duty power transistor, it is used in many US tanks for it's
reliability but unfortunately it is a very hard to find part, instead you can substitute each 2N6277 with 2 x
2N3773 or any equivalent.
17> I've included an optional "Battery level indicator" circuit diagram that has 4 LEDs, you can see it installed
on the front panel of my inverter pic, it is functioning great and shows precisely how much juice the batteries
still have. I have included a small relay that is powered by the last LED to auto shutoff the inverter once last
LED is off.
18> Also included an optional "Overload circuit", it is very easy to build and can be calibrated to the desired
overload current threshold cutoff point through the potentiometer VR1.
R1 is rated 5watts for inverters upto 1000 watts. For bigger versions of the inverter like 1000 to 3000
watts inverters, replace R1 (1 ohm, 5watts) with (1 ohm, 17watts) which should handle loads upto 10 VA.
Make sure you install a proper relay to handle big current drains.
19> Please guys take your time to read and understand my notes, browse and read the posts and
questions asked by others because there are many useful information listed in replies. The main reason
for me not answering your question is because it has already been asked before and answered upon.
20> It would be nice and inspiring for others if you take some photos and show us how you built your
version, any additions to the circuit are mostly welcomed to be listed here, we can all benefit from them.
thanks for your nice comment...i will change the transformer to 48 0 48 volts later, i just bought that
transformer for testing purposes as a simulator...that's why i'm asking if 13/4" x 4" core is enough or 21/4" x 3"
core that can handle up to 3k watts or 5k watts....since i am planning to make a multiple secondary wiring
winding using 4 relays to stabilize the secondary voltage to 220vac whenever the battery voltage drops from
13.8 to 12.8 down to 11.8 and 11 volts respectively & auto shut off below 11 volts...is AWG #4 magnetic
copper wire is enough to handle around 200A?
here's the pics...the first is the output voltage with bulb & grinder running @199.9vac, 2nd is battery voltage @
12.22vdc bulb on, 3rd is battery voltage @11.99 bulb & grinder running, 4th is a 20A commercial x'former, 5th
is the frequency @59.9HZ, 6th & 7th are the voltage @ 235.2 & 234.6vac with only bulb@100watts, 8th is the
output voltage @ 200.4vac with both bulb & grinder running...i'm using the salvage chassis of my 5000watts
inverter...i was not able to find the specific part # of x'sistors in this inverter due to the part # erasure made from
the factory of this inverter...so i tried to assemble your schematic diagram...i am adding 24pcs of IRFB4710
after i will change the x'former rated @5k watts later...
is it right to drop the voltage to 200.4vac from 235.2vac with a difference of .23vdc in the battery?
i have .1uf/600vac filter, & i'm using 7812 for the regulator...
PS...
i am using my 5k watts inverter in running a 1k watts induction motor in my pneumatic tire changer whenever
there's a power failure from the grid...so i've decided to make this inverter of yours and planning to supply it
with 48vdc...that's why im asking a true sinewave output schematic diagram if it is possible to integrate in this
inverter of yours...i also saw your booster type schematic diagram using a 300watts sinewave inverter output as
the input to transform to 5k watts
nickk (author) benzalyesterdayReply
You did not take my note #2 into consideration, a 20amps transformer can not handle such a load ! Read #2
carefully, it is the most important note to get your inverter properly set with the right parts.
Hello, Nickk.
Can i use IRFZ44 in place of IRFP250? If so, what changes in schematic are needed? My transformer will be
12 to 220V.
Thank You.
I have a problem with IRFP250: i'm using my inverter in car and everything was ok with 2N3055, but with
IRFP250 inverter only works, when engine is not running. When i start the engine, IRFP250 immediately
overheats. Load on inverter is always the same.
Why would this happen? Sorry for my bad English and thank You for Your help.
when the car engine starts the car's dynamo starts charging the 12v battery thus raising the voltage to 13.8vdc,
actualy this should not be a problem unless your dynamo is malfunctioning and raising the voltage above 13.8
Please test what the DC reading difference is while the engine is OFF and ON
ptiuliutinas nickkyesterdayReply
Already checked this, dynamo charging 13,5V so that's not the problem. Switched back to my setup with
2N3055 and inverter is working perfectly. Could this be related to IRFP250 working directly from dynamo or
some voltage spikes from ignition coil? I don't have oscilloscope to test that for sure.
Hi Nickk,
Thanks for the schematic diagram...i was able to make the said inverter using 20 amps x'former 12 0 12 / 220
vac...i used 8 pcs IRFB4710 as the power... VDss@ 100V, RDs 0.014, ID @ 75A...i set the frequency @60hz
by loading a 100watts incandescent bulb & it works great with an output of 230vac...i tried loading the grinder
@710 watts and it runs, but dropping the voltage to 205vac...
2, Load 100watts bulb + grinder = 10amps starting torque then down to 1.6 amps
is it also possible to change the MOSFET to IGBT if yes , can you provide a schematic diagram for it?
Again, thanks a lot loading 810watts running for about 3 minutes the mosfet was not even feel hot still cool...is
there any possible means to make this schematic diagram to make a true sine wave from PWM by incorporating
RC or LC circuit between the oscillator & power output?
Lastly, extend my best regards to your family...more power have a nice & bless day ahead of you...
Please upload a photo showing your setup and battery size and transformer size.
Did you install the filters? they shape out the frequency to near sinewave.
send feedback.
فولط مستمر ولك كل120 بطارات يعني10 سوالي الوحيد لك ما عو نوع ترانزيزستور او الموصفت المستخدم في صناعة انفيرتر يتكون من
الشكر
hi nickk
can i transformer that is not centre tapped be used, if so how would you wire it in
Hello Mr. Zouein. First of all I want to thank you for this great circuit. I am a 4th class Electrical and
Electronics Engineering student. Inverter was my Capstone project. So I found your durable and great circuit. I
made a 250 W of your circuit (Transformer is 100 W because I need 100 W) So It is 100 W actually. I had a lot
of problems with this circuit. First of all I made the circuit as your design with transistors 2N3773. When I
powered It, It drain a lot of amps like 3-4 amps with just applying 4-5 volts. So I stopped giving Voltage to it
and start to find the problem. The problem was solved with putting 100 ohm resistors after the TIP122 Emitter
Pins. But you did not need a resistor like that. What can be the problem ? And when the final stage I had only
128 V AC output. The input was 7 AC. I dont know why the input was 7 AC. The input was 12 V DC. There is
no drop in that. So I applied 27 V DC to the circuit (12 to the driver stage 27 to the power stage no problem
with the driver) and then the problem was solved I had 220 V AC in the output. Also feedback worked between
140 and 220. I dont know the real problem but I can send you the pictures of my circuit.
And I had one more problem. The inverter takes 2 amps while there is no load. Even with this 2 amps and huge
coolers the transistors became very very hot. When I apply 100 W of load, the circuit will take 8-9 amps. I cant
imagine what will happen then. Thanks in advance from Turkey.
or
2- One side of your transformer is not good (remove the trans and plug it in 220vAC and test if you have 12-0-
12 AC exactly.
I used exactly your parts. There is little difference. I used 2 + 2 2N3773 Transistors. No diodes on the
transformer and I had to add 100 ohm resistors after TIP122 Emitter. With filtering I see an output almost like a
sinusoid. I use 50 Hz. From the comments maybe I should do 60 Hz to see what happens. All of the transistors
are hot so all of them are working. Thanks.
فولط مستمر ولكم كل الشكر120 بطاريات يعني10 مساء الخير كنت اود ان اسألك ما هو نوع ترانسستور المستخدم في االنفيرتر من
Works well. I used 3 pairs of 2N3055 (they're cheapest) and ~100W 10-0-10V transformer for now.
nickk (author) ptiuliutinas19 days agoReply
1- The regulator on the driving circuit board does not need a heat sink at all.
2- I see that you tied both the heatsinks with a copper wire (Read my notes #11) this is very dangerous !
probably you didn't have any incident so far is because it is an enamel wire. I recommend you remove it
immediately.
the best part is the feedback, its able to regulate the voltage at 86% duty cycle according to my experimental
setup.
I will modify the system using boost converter from the solar panels according to my specification.
hi Nick...
im connecting your design it's working fine but getting more noise(sound) from the inverter how to eliminate
that noise
I was wondering why when I connect the 12V to the power stage (between two diodes) my circuit shorts!!
I was using Triad FD-08 transformer, and switched to a radio shark center-tapped.
Also the outputs of the driver stage I get 30Hz, but at pin 8, the cap/res combo gives me 60 Hz.
Thanks,
Al
my email is alexericmora@gmail.com
thank you
hi Nickk...
i have been trying to implement your circuit given here... i couldnt find 2N6277 so iam trying to use BUT91...
please check if its a correct replacement... as for the circuit... iam getting 2.5v AC at the inputs of BC337 but
when i join the power stage with the driver part.. voltage is increased to 6volts... and the net output is (i.e input
to the transformer) 6 volts only... please help...
could you please send us the battery charger circuit for both 12 vdc and 24 vdc???
belal_saad1@yahoo.co.uk
thanks in advance
hello nickk can you kindly guide me for the necessary changes to be made for the following requirements
STATIC INVERTER:
Thanks
Himadri Adhya
Email:tdchowrah@yahoo.co.in
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