NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY,

KANGRA

END TERM
ASSIGNMENT

Submitted by: Divyanshi Goel

(DFT, SEM IV)

Submitted to: Mohd. Umar

(Asst. Professor)
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Every student’s project owns a debt to their teachers,

friends and their parents. I gratefully acknowledge my
deep indebtedness to all of them.

The present work is an effort to throw some light on

“types of placket & cuffs.”

The work would not have been possible to come to the

present shape without the able guidance, supervision
and hep to me by number of people.

With deep sense of gratitude, I acknowledged the

encouragement and guidance received by Prof. MOHD.
UMAR.

I am also thankful to my parents for their kind

cooperation and encouragement which helped me in
the completion of this assignment.

My thanks and appreciation also go to my friends who

have willingly helped me out with their abilities.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

3 SUBJECT
INTRODUCTION
12 CUFFS
INTRODUCTION
4 TOOLS SUBJECT
REQUIRED INTRODUCTION

14 TYPES OF
CUFFS
6 PLACKET
INTRODUCTION

20 BIBLIOGRAPHY

7 TYPES OF
PLACKETS
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A costume or garment is constructed by cutting the fabric into parts according
to a pattern which fits the human form; then the different parts are joined
together by sewing. Construction is the foundation of fashion design; it takes
passion and great skill to turn a two-dimensional drawing into a successful
garment.

MATERIALS FOR
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 TOOLS
REQUIRED

▪ Fabric scissors
▪ Sewing machine
▪ Measuring tape
▪ Grading rule
▪ Pencils
▪ Tailor chalk
▪ Sewing threads
▪ Needles
▪ Different scales
▪ Fabric

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 Types of
Plackets & Cuffs

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 Plackets If a garment has sleeves with cuffs,
it will require plackets unless the
A placket is made either in an opening left on the seam or cuffs are made of a stretch knit
by creating a cut in a garment which enables one to wear or fabric or are “pull-on” cuffs.
remove the garment easily. The placket made on a seam is Plackets are particularly seen in
stronger and gives a better finish. The following points women’s garments which have a
should be kept in mind while constructing a placket. good fit. They are usually found near
▪ A good placket should lay flat on the garment. the writs, neckline, waist line and
▪ A placket should not be thick and should not have other comfort fitting parts of the
gaps at the edges. garment. These are finished
▪ The position of the placket should be easily openings which are normally kept
accessible. closed (to have a tight fit) and are
▪ The seams of the placket should be strengthened at opened only while wearing or taking
the closed ends as it has to go through a certain
off the garment. Fasteners like
amount of strain during wear.
▪ While choosing a placket the position of the placket, zippers, buttons, buttonholes, hooks
texture of the fabric, age and sex of the wearer along are used in keeping the plackets
with the current fashion should be kept in mind. closed.

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a) Continuous Bound Placket
These plackets are made on a seam or a cut but should not be made on curved
seams and bulky fabrics. This is also called as one-piece placket. They are suit-able
for children’s dresses, undergarments like petticoats and sleeve openings where a
cuff or band is used.

Construction:

▪ To make a placket in a slash, cut a strip of fabric on the lengthwise grain.

▪ The cut should be 3 to 6 cm wide and 3 cm longer than twice the length of
the openings.
▪ Match the centre of a long edge of the strip to the end of the slash edge, with
right sides of garment and strips facing each other.
▪ Pull back the tip of the slash about 0.25 cm from the edge of the placket
strip and pin it.
▪ Open the placket edges wide and attach to the strip by a line of tacking
worked 0.25 cm from the edge of the strip.
▪ From the right side of the garment, machine over the tacking line from one
end up to its midpoint.
▪ Keep the machine needle in the fabric, raise the pressure foot and move the
fullness backward out to prevent fold created on the placket.
▪ Lower the presser foot and stitch along the opposite end of the opening.
▪ Press the seam edges towards the placket strip and fold under the free edge
of the strip of 0.25 cm and crease.
▪ Fold the strip over the seam edge and hem it along the stitching line.
▪ Fold the strip under on the overlap section and tack it close to the seam.
▪ Tacking should be removed after fixing the fastener

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b) Bound and Faced Placket or Two-Piece Placket
As the name indicates, this is done with two pieces of fabrics. This placket is
commonly used skirts, petticoats and back opening dresses. The overlap and under
lap sides are finished with facing and binding respectively.

Construction:
▪ Cut out sleeve and facing pieces and mark the location of the placket.
▪ If a facing pattern piece is not provided, cut two 3 x 4-in. rectangles of
matching fabric.
▪ Finish the side and the top edges of the facing by turning edges under 1/4 in.
and machine stitching turned edge
▪ Pin the facing to the sleeve with right sides together, centered over the
facing markings.
▪ Stitch along markings using very small stitches near the point. For easier
turning, stitch one small stitch across point.
▪ Slash to the point of the “V,” turn the placket to the wrong side and press.
Understitch seam to facing.
▪ Cut two stripes of fusible web about 1/2-in. square.
▪ Place the web between the facing and sleeve side at the top and fuse

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c) Miter Placket
Miter placket is mainly used in men’s shirts, sleeve opening and on neck openings
for children’s garments where strength is the major requirement. It is also called as
tailored placket. The tailored or mitre placket is particularly attractive on shirts and
tailored suit blouses made of lightweight fabric. The opening is finished with a
wide band of overlap called the gauntlet by custom shirt makers and a narrow
binding on the underlap.

Construction:

▪ Prepare a strip on straight grain measuring 7 cm wide and exact length of

the slit which is normally 12-15 cm for the under lap.
▪ Place the strip right side facing to match the end of the slit and with right
side facing, sew about 5 cm to join the strip.
▪ Fold and machine along the stitching line over the folded edge (0.25 cm)
along the strip.
▪ Point the strip to about 2.5 cm wide.
▪ A strip measuring 5.5 cm wide and 3 cm longer than slit is cut for the
overlap and this is placed on the seam line about 0.25 cm.
▪ Keep the right sides of the strip facing the wrong side of garment and tack
the short side of the strip to the free side of the placket opening on the seam
line.
▪ Machine stitch and bring the overlap on the right side of the garment.
▪ Turn under the seam allowance and adjust the position of the strip so that
overlap and under lap are together, sew it.
▪ Make a row of top stitch on the strips and garment together turn around the
point and downward till the opening.
▪ Then sew twice keeping the overlap and under lap in position on the
garment to form a square shape.

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d) Zipper Placket
Zippers are plastic or metal rows with teeth like structures, which can be looped or
unlopped by a runner. This is used to open or close the garment. It is attached on
the placket. The market is filled with different types of zippers which can be
matched based upon the side of placket opening and colour of the garment. Zippers
are available in different colour and length

Construction:

▪ Cut the opening in the garment where the zipper has to be attached.
▪ Select the zipper according to the opening size.
▪ Towards the end of the cut make a short slit 0.25 cm wide diagonally on
both sides (an inverted ‘V’ shape).
▪ Turn all the three raw edges to the wrong side and tack them.
▪ Sew a square piece of tape at the raw edge.
▪ Place the zipper on the sewen lap and stitch through the edges holding the
fabric edge.
▪ Cover the zipper edges with a small square piece of tape, tack it first and
then sew it.
▪ Hem the raw edges neatly to finish the zip.

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e) Faced Placket Open
It is one of the simplest methods of finishing a neckline. It is mostly used for
infants, children and night dresses.

Construction:

▪ Cut a placket open for the required length at the centre back or front
▪ Place the facing piece right sides on the garment and make row of stitches
▪ Turn the facing to the wrong side and then top stitch
▪ Hem neatly to finish the facing

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The cuff is the layer of fabric attached at the end of the sleeve. Cuffs vary in
their styles and often feature their own placket and fastener. The function of the
cuff is to prevent the garment’s fabric from fraying and allows it to be repaired
more easily. A cuff is a layer of fabric at the lower edge of the sleeve of a
garment (shirt, coat, jacket, etc.) at the wrist, or at the ankle end of a trouser leg.
The function of turned-back cuffs is to protect the cloth of the garment from
fraying, and, when frayed, to allow the cuffs to be readily repaired or replaced,
without changing the garment. Cuffs are made by turning back (folding) the
material, or a separate band of material can be sewn on, or worn separately,
attached either by buttons or studs. A cuff may display an ornamental border or
have lace or some other trimming.

What is a
Cuff?

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 Cuff styles: What
are the options?

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 a) Adjustable angled cuff b) Barrel cuff
A cuff with two horizontal buttons makes A single layer cuff buttoned with one or
the width of it adjustable for the wrist, two buttons. The sleeve edge is usually
depending on occasion. A choice of either pleated or gathered onto the cuff and has
button can allow wearers to decide between a simple placket opening. The end
a tight- or loose-fitting cuff. Usually, the left corner of the cuff may be straight,
one is wider to allow space for a watch. rounded or mitered.

c) French/ Double cuff d) Tab cuff

The most formal cuff for a dress shirt. They This is any style of cuff with a tab
require cufflinks which automatically emerging from inside the sleeve to fold
portrays sophistication and influence. These and fasten it up.
cuffs are most suited for the most formal
occasions and often the choice of cuff for the
most traditional of men.

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e) Two Buttoned cuff f) Mitered single/ Angled cuff
This cuff style is a great option for casual The mitred shirt cuff style is cut across
shirts, or a business shirt in a less formal the corner at 45 degrees and includes two
office. You can leave the second button buttons. The mitred cuff is more formal
open for a relaxed look. A two-button cuff than a standard cuff and adds an element
style can have a square corner, mitred of crispness to your shirt.
corner or rounded corner.

g) Round cuff h) Straight (square) cuff

This cuff is preferable for more elegant shirts, The straight cuff is a less formal take on the
although this is often a subjective choice. It is a round cuff. It does not have rounded edges, and
rounded cuff with one button and can add a makes the sleeves easier to roll up for informal
occasions. It is better suited for casual or sporty
level of formality and professionalism. It can
events.
also be worn in a casual setting and would not
be considered too smart.

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i) Band cuff j) Cavalier cuff
This cuff has a simple fabric band into A deep long cuff, fitted at the
which the sleeve edge is gathered and wrist, but may flare as it goes up.
stitched without any opening.

Knit cuff

k) Convertible cuff
Convertible cuffs are quickly rising in
popularity due to their versatility. Wearers can
l) Knit cuff
manoeuvre the button to hide it internally, A knit cuff is a rib knitted fabric which
making room for the addition of a cufflink. fits closely but is stretchy enough to slip
This is particularly suitable for people who of the hand.
want to wear cufflinks for a formal occasion
yet fasten the buttons in all other
circumstances.

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m) Gathered cuff n) Decorative cuff
These are all gathered sleeve hems – it A cuff band which is decorated
could be at the edge or just above the hem with embroidery / sequins etc.
creating a frill. The elastic cuff or edge
has elastic drawn through it

o) Roll-up cuff p) Gauntlet cuff

A cuff which is worn folded up – it This is a wide and flared turned back
can be tacked in places to keep its double cuff, often seen in suit jackets,
position. with the outward corner curved.

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q) Loop cuff r) Laced-up cuff
A cuff with button and a loop. This is a wide cuff with eyelets and a
laced-up fastening.

s) Puff cuff t) Ruffle cuff

This cuff is a wide puffy This cuff has a gathered or pleated
exaggerated band of fabric which is frill. A ruff cuff is fully frilled and
gathered or pleated this is then starched.
stitched to the end of the sleeve.

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v) Pleated cuff u) Smoked cuff

There is a pleated portion after the This cuff has a gathered or pleated
frill. A ruff cuff is fully frilled and
cuff band.
starched.

x) Contrast cuff
w) Drawstring cuff
The contrast element may be the
An edge or cuff with a drawstring
whole cuff band or the inside of the
going through it- it is an adjustable
cuff which shows when you turn it
cuff.
up.

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BIBLIOGRAPHY
➢ https://blog.treasurie.com/types-of-cuffs/

➢ https://www.ivyandpearlboutique.com/fashion-and-news/fashion-school/complete-
illustrated-guide-garment-shirt-blouse-dress-robe-sleeves-cuffs/

➢ https://sewguide.com/types-of-sleeve-hems-cuffs/

➢ https://www.apposta.com/sp/guides/types-of-cuff.3sp

➢ https://www.oscarhunt.com.au/style-digest/guidance/shirt-cuff-styles-what-are-the-
options/

➢ https://www.brainkart.com/article/Types-of-Plackets_35633/

➢ https://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/C222/welcome.html

➢ https://www.textileschool.com/498/types-of-plackets/

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