Notes
Notes
Thesis Objectives:
i. Simulate the
longshore/cross-shore or on-offshore hydrodynamics
long-term (2011 vs 2019 scenario) coastal erosion process
that has occurred along the shoreline of Boracay, Aklan, Philippines
ii. Explain the effect of waves and tides in the coastal erosion process
iii. Determine the rate of shoreline changes (erosion and deposition values) that occurred
along the coast of Boracay Aklan, Philippines through the use of numerical modelling
techniques
iv. Analyze the (short-term) sediment transport patterns happening along the coast of
Boracay, Aklan during different flow conditions and monsoon seasons
(sediment flux, rate of change of sediment mass, suspended sediment
concentration) with the use of Delft3D software. (scenario-based)
v. Compare the modelled sediment transport patterns with that of observed data from field
(Ignacio_thesis)
vi. Assess the model simulation Model calibration
vii. Validate the model with a known coastal erosion process (static analysis – model bias)
viii. Model analysis (dynamic analysis – over time)
Thesis Framework:
1. Governing Equations
a. Hydrodynamics – partial differential equations
b. Wave Dynamics
c. Morpho-dynamics – function of flow and sediment parameters
A. Advection-diffusion equation
flow velocity + diffusivity + source/sink terms (3D not 2D), boundary
conditions
settling velocity (concentration, salinity)
-related to sediment diameter, specific gravity, fluid viscosity
bed exchange (source/sink) – van Rijn vs. Krone formulations
density effects, “mud” vs “sand”
sediment turbulent diffusivity ~ turbulent eddy viscosity (coupling?)
-related to settling velocity and friction velocity
B. Boundary conditions: bottom concentration + vertical sediment flux [bottom
shear stress(erosion) / sediment bed characteristics (deposition)]
2. Grid Generation
a. Splines to Grid
b. Refine Grid
c. Orthogonalize
3. Initial and Boundary Conditions
a. Initial forcings – (environmental conditions at the boundary (e.g. tidal forcings; water
levels, waves and currents)
i. Tides and waves – tidal forcing (oscillatory) – TIDE GAUGES
ii. Velocity or water levels – (fluid forcing) surface or bottom (current/flow)
velocity (magnitude + direction), depth-averaged current speed,
iii. Wave conditions – significant wave height – WAVE BUOYS
iv. Atmospheric forcing (wind & pressure) – usually used in storm surges, wind
speed and direction (surface forcing); barometric pressure, wind-induced
currents (meteorological forcing)
b. Initial Conditions – (environmental conditions specified everywhere (e.g. values of
water levels, velocities and concentrations)
hot (previous simulation) vs. cold (rest) start
spin-up period – allows forcing that is applied along boundaries to propagate
throughout the entire computational domain
c. Model Set-Up
4. Parameters Setting
a. Hydro-dynamics/Physical Processes
b. Numerical Parameters
c. Sediment/Morpho-dynamics
Model Parameters:
River discharge data – non-oscillatory initial forcings
Water – water levels, surface elevation, water depth, water velocity
Wave data – mean wave height and direction
Bathymetry and Terrain data
Sediment data – median grain size
5. Model Calibration
(direct comparison of model results with a standard or reference in a manner that allows
parameter values to be modified with the goal of improving the comparison outcomes)
6. Model Validation
(process of determining the degree to which a model is an accurate representation of
the real world from the perspective of the intended uses of the model)
7. Model Analysis (dynamic analysis - model results are evaluated as a function of time,
typically at one or more specific geographic locations); (static analysis - some relevant
parameter statistic evaluated at one or more geographic locations)
Root Mean Square Error
Study Area
Location in the Philippines, coordinates
Climate – climate type, tidal climate
Beach morphology – sediment size and composition, slope, shoreline shape
prominent physical features
Thesis Methodology
1. Grid Generation – two (2) grids nested with each other
1 rectangular grid, whole Boracay island
1 curvilinear grid, portion of the Boracay shoreline
2. Parameters Setting
Identifying the model time-frame: 14 day run (one tidal cycle)
Setting up initial forcings and boundary conditions
Identifying physical and numerical patterns
3. Model Calibration
Calibration against field data (designated monsoon season) during the
collection of data, adjustment of model parameters and physical
conditions
4. Model Validation
Validation of model using different time period/monsoon season
5. Model Analysis
Calculation of root mean square error (RMSE), correlation coefficient (R 2)
and model skill