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Kantha of Bengal

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KANTHA- EMBROIDERY OF BENGAL

KANTHA- EMBROIDERY OF BENGAL


Kantha is a type of embroidery popular in
Bangladesh and in West Bengal, India.
 Kontha or Kantha is a sanskrit word meaning
‘rags’.
 It can rightly be called the recycling art.
 Kantha evolved out of necessity to drape or protect
against cold.
ORIGIN & HISTORY
 A legend tells the story that the Kantha owes its
origin to Lord Buddha and his disciples. They used
to cover themselves with rags thrown away by people,
which were patched and stitched together.
 Pictorial style of quilts also known as Bengalla
quilts were made at Satgaon which is about 23
miles from Calcutta and these quilts existed because
of Portuguese patronage.
 According to Dr. Stella Kramrisch, kantha is of
ancient origin as only one dated Kantha is known
and the year of its manufacture is 1875.
Process
of
kantha
making
PROCESS OF KANTHA MAKING
• The fabric used for kantha are old discarded sarees
or dhoti pieces. The base material was always white
thin cotton for kanthas.
• The discarded old sarees are placed on top of each
other and are held neatly together in layers in
running stitches.
• The edges are folded and tacked together.
• The field is filled in with fine quilted work with
white thread.
 The stitch used is simple Running stitch but it is
the way it has been used that makes it
extraordinary.
•The kantha embroidery combines the
technique of quilting and embroidery.
•The artist depicts beautiful designs from
legends and stories by means of embroidery.
•The work is very neat and done without tracing or
drawing.
•It is said that it takes six months to one year to
prepare a kantha.
HOME OF KANTHAS
 Kanthas were prepared both in East and West
Bengal.
 They were mostly done in
Jessore,Faridpur,Khulna and Mymensing all in
East Bengal, now in Bangladesh.

 In rural Bengal ,Kanthas are made even today


by women for their personal use. But designs
are not so elaborate as those of earlier days.
Motifs used:
The motifs used are human and animal figure,
floral and foliage symbols. The central design
is usually a lotus with a variable number of
petals. Tree of life, birds and fishes, boats,
chariots, palanquins, kalkas, creepers, floral
scrolls and spirals are also some of the popular
motifs. The design of kantha are also taken
from day today life, from folk stories and
mythology.
KANTHA MOTIFS

 Lotus flower

 Fishes
Animal figures
(Tiger, Elephant, deer etc.)
 Birds like Parrot , Peacock, swan etc.
Human Figures and Mythological stories
Trees, Floral and Foliage symbols , Boats, Chariots, palanquin
etc.
 The borders of Creepers, Floral Scrolls, Spirals
and several linear devices
 Kalkas and Geometrical patterns
THREADS FOR KANTHA
Threads to be used are taken out from
the borders of the discarded sarees
which are used for the base.
The colours of the threads used are

Blue Green Yellow

Red Black

 The outer layers of the fabric are mostly light or white colour
to enable embroidery to stand out.
 Today instead of threads drawn from borders, bright
coloured silk or bright embroidery strands are used.
STITCHES FOR KANTHA

 The most common stitch used is very small darning


stitch giving dotted lines.
 For the border, stem stitches are used.
 Back stitches are used for continuous lines.
 The details in Kantha are often filled with running stitch,
though herringbone chain, satin and blanket stitches may also
be used.
 The outlines of the design in generally in dark blue, filled with
stitches of same colour or contrasting colours.
 After the design has been embroidered, any areas left are filled
with stitches in white running parallel to the outlines of the
motifs.
THE QUILTING STITCHES OF KANTHA

The basic run stitch


A Jaal or tessellation The dorma or mat
done in a random
way

The simple run arranged evenly The Golak Dhaga or maze Simple Jhod or pairs
TYPES OF KANTHAS
There are seven types of Kanthas based
on how they are made and their end use.
 Lep
 Thalia
 Durjani
 Arshilata
 Sujani
 Rumal
 Oar
LEP: Thick quilted wrap used in winter as a cover.
Designs on lep are usually geometrical.
 OAR: Rectangular kantha used as
pillow cases/covers and is two ft by one
and half ft in size.
 DURJANI OR THALIA: Square shape and
supposed to be wallet covers, as the three corners
meet in centre and stitched together like an
envelope.
 ARSILATA: Wrap for mirrors and combs.
Rectangular in shape generally eight inches
wide and twelve inches in length.
BAYTON: Square wrap about three feet for
covering books, valuables ,and can be
carried during journeys.
 SUJANI: Rectangular bed spread of three feet by
six feet size used during ceremonial occasions.

RUMAL: Twelve inches square handkerchief .
•REVIVAL AND CONTEMPORARY USE OF
KANTHA EMBROIDERY

 The revival of “Kantha” in


Bengal is the brainchild of
Shamlu Dudeja who
brought Kantha out of
rural households in 1980s.

 She started with four


women in the beginning
and now providing
gainful employment to a
large number of women in
five districts of Bengal.
Kantha embroidery is
now done on dupattas,
sarees, salwar suits
and western wear,
shirts for men and
women with modern
geometric designs and
patchwork.
The art is also used for
making bedcovers,
pillowcases, table-linen,
wall hangings, lamp
shades, upholstery and
curtains.
ARTICLES PRODUCED
THANK YOU

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