Industrial Sewing Machine Operator (ISMO)

Training Manual
For
Trainers

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Industrial Sewing Machine Operator (ISMO)

Training Manual

For

Trainers

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Industrial Sewing Machine Operator (ISMO) Training Manual For Trainers

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator (ISMO) Advanced Training Manual For Trainers

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator (ISMO) Training Manual For Trainees

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator (ISMO) Advanced Training Manual For Trainees

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator (ISMO) Training Video For Trainers

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator (ISMO) Advanced Training Video For Trainers

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator (ISMO) Training Video For Trainees

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator (ISMO) Advanced Training Video For Trainees

Apparel Production Management

Apparel Merchandising Management

Apparel Product Development

Apparel Quality Assurance

Information Technology (IT) for the Apparel Industry

Retail Operations

Retail Buying and Merchandising

Visual Merchandising

Retail Operations

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 Contents
Introduction
Resources required
Guidelines to Trainers
Recruitment
Content and Delivery Methodology
Assessment of Learning Outcomes
Advanced Training
Ongoing Learning

Additional Resources with this Trainer's Manual

Video
Sewing Defect Samples
Formats for Recruitment, Training and Assessment
Tools for Recruitment Tests
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 Resources Required
Single Needle Lock Stitch – 25 Nos

Double Needle Lock Stitch – 1 No

Over Lock Machine – 3Thd – 1 No

Over Lock Machine – 5Thd – 1 No

Flat Lock Machine – 3Thd - 1 No

Manpower – Sewing Instructor – 1 Person

Continuous Availability of Fabric, Thread & Needle for Sewing Training

Cupboard of Documentation – 1 No

Soft Board – 4X4 – 1 No

While Board – 4X4 – 1 No

Duster - 1, White Board Marker – 4, Permanent Marker – 1, Measuring Tape – 5

Stop Clock – 2 Nos

Peg Boards – 1 No & Metal Pegs – 120 Nos

Pin Board – 1 No & Pins – 135 Nos

Tube with attached Box - 1 Number and Marble Balls 25 Numbers

25 Needles and 25 metres Thread

Colour Blindness Test Book- 1 Number

Recruitment of Industrial Sewing Machine Operators
Guidelines for Trainers participating in the selection
process

Many applicants for sewing operation positions are likely

to be from marginalized sections of the society and might
lack in confidence. They mighty be nervous, shy and might
be hesitant to ask questions and might nod their heads or
say 'yes' even when they have not fully understood what
you have said.

The trainer must take special efforts to put the applicants at

ease.

The following guidelines should help the trainer in

engaging the applicants well.

Explain the
? ISMO training programme and the
selection process in great detail.

Use simple language to explain. Do not use jargon.

?

Encourage applicants to ask questions.

?

Respond to queries patiently and with respect.

?
 The Selection Process consists of the following 3 steps.
STEP 1

Screen the applicants using the following criteria.

Applicants must meet the following criteria.

a) Age between 18 years and 30 years.( May be relaxed to 35 years in special cases )

b) Education at least till 8 th Class. ( May be relaxed to 5 th Class in special cases )

Applicants must provide proof of meeting the above criteria as well proof of address and
photographic identity proof.

STEP 2

Screen the applicants for motor skills, finger dexterity, colour blindness and general
health.

The following tests have to be administered

a) Peg Board Test

b) Pin Board Test

c) Tube and Marble Test

d) Needle and Thread Test

e) Colour Blindness Test

These Tests are explained in Appendix II

STEP 3

Screen the applicants for attitude and preparedness to participate in the training
programme and eventually be part of the organized workforce.

Each of the above steps is explained in detail below.

STEP 1
The group of applicants must be addressed by the recruitment officer. The opportunities
for employment as industrial sewing machine operators and how this could change their
lifestyle should be explained. Some of the initial challenges like migrating from a rural
area to urban area should also be explained. It is advisable to use audio-visual media
as this will provide greater clarity and engage the audience better. It might also
provide greater clarity on how audio-visual tools could enable training.

The next step is to explain the recruitment process to the applicants. Explain loudly or
use a microphone if the group of applicants is large so that the entire group can hear
you.

Explain that those in the age group 18 to 30 years and education of at least 8 th
standard are eligible. Explain also the special cases in which the age limit could be
relaxed to 35 years and education to 5 th standard. Invite those eligible to fill in the
Application Forms.

Application Forms must be filled in, as much as possible, by the applicants themselves.
Give all applicants Application Forms and explain loudly, so that the entire group can
hear you, how to fill in the form. Encourage the applicants to ask questions.

Ask the applicants to meet you once they have filled in the form or if they have any
query or need clarification.

When applicants show you the forms filled in by them, check these for completeness of
information.

Once all applicants have filled in application forms, inform them they will need to
provide proof of age, address, educational qualification and a photographic identity proof
within 7 days.

Now, applicants may be invited to take the steps mentioned in STEP 2

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Training Programme : 4 weeks
 Day 1
Step 1: Orientation and familiarisation of
Industrial Sewing Machine

Machine : Single Needle Lock Stitch

Training Delivery : Oral explanation and
physical demonstration of
the machine and its operation
Duration : One day

Trainer to introduce herself / himself. Ask all trainees to introduce themselves one by
?
one.

Call out by names and mark attendance.

?

Call all the trainees in a group and brief them about the following.Demonstrate
?
wherever suggested.

A) Brief introduction to apparel industry in India and globally.

B) Explain the expectations from an organized sector employee : apparel plant timings,
teamwork, productivity, quality etc.

C) Introduction to industrial sewing machine : explain various parts.

D) Explain proper posture for sitting at the machine and its importance for health and
productivity.

E) Insert needle into needle bar.

F) Threading the machine.

Each of the above processes A, B, C, D, E, F and G is explained in detail below.

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C) Introduction to Industrial Sewing Machine
Explain and show the below parts of the sewing machine to
all trainees in a group.
1. Bobbin

2. Bobbin winder

3. Bobbin case

4. Bobbin case tension spring

5. Bobbin case latch

6. Belt

7. Pedal

8. Thread stand

9. Machine hand wheel

10. Motor

11. Needle bar

12. Needle

13. Machine feed

14. Presser foot

15. Knee lifter

16. Tension Disks and Tension Adjuster

17. Thread take-up

18. Throat plate

After the trainer has explained and shown each part, call each trainee one by one and
ask them to name various parts of the sewing machine. When each trainee is being called
others should be asked to study the various parts of the machine allotted to them.
D) Proper posture for sitting at the machine
1) Sit and demonstrate to the trainees how to sit at the machine.

2) Place each trainee to your left. at least three feet away from you, so that he or she may better
view your entire posture at the machine.

3) Place both feet equally on the pedal about three inches apart.

4) The torso should be directly in the centre line of the needle and about six inches from the table
edges.

5) The upper part of the torso should be slightly- forward.

6) The forearms -should be positioned on the table, the upper arms hanging free and in a natural
position.

7) The hands should be placed palms down in a semi-cupped position, with tire wrists and finger
tips down on the machine bed.

8) The fingers should be about two inches from the front edge of the presser foot to the left and
right of the machine feed.

9) Stress these positions one at a time and question the operator after he or she has a mental
picture of your entire position.

10) Impress upon the trainees to remain relaxed, especially in the arms, fingers, legs and back.

11) Have the trainees sit in this position and correct their errors in posture.

12) If there is a tendency not to be able to cup their fingers, but to rigidly extend them on the
machine bed, then they are tense. Call this to their attention immediately.

13). Question the trainees on all points of posture and be sure they are relaxed and feel natural in
the sitting position.
E) Inserting Needle into Needle Bar
1. Shut off the machine motor switch. Stress that this switch must always be off when working
on the needle, and remove the needle from the needle bar with screw driver.

2. The instructor should hold the needle and explain:

a) Shank of the needle

b) Eye of the needle

c) Groove of the needle

3. Hold the needle in your right hand between the thumb and forefinger at the shank where the
groove begins. Now rotate the needle back and forth several times. Do this operation slowly
in front of the trainees.

4. Show the trainees how to insert the needle into the needle bar.

5. Stress the fact that the groove must be directly facing the left of the sewing machine head for
most sewing machines.

6. Have the trainees perform these steps and review each step with them.

7. Explain the hazards of running a needle into their fingers while making this change.

8. Stress shutting off the machine motor when changing a needle.

9. Have the trainees practise inserting the needle.

10. Check and correct errors.

F) Threading the machine
Machine Threading
1. Explain and show the trainee how to read the type of thread, the number and color designation
inside the cone.

2. Show the position of the spool on the thread (Cop) stand

3. Point out and show how to thread passes through the top pin and thread retainer

4. Ask the trainees to demonstrate the steps

5. Explain tension

6. Show how the thread tension disks, Tension adjuster, take up spring and thread take-up lever
work.

7 Ask the trainees demonstrate up to this point.

8. Show and explain the remaining thread guides

9. Point out the needle and demonstrate how to thread it

10. Repeat the entire demonstration

11 Ask the trainees to explain and demonstrate how to thread the machine completely

12 Have them practise until they are proficient

13. Follow up and correct any errors

How to Thread the Bobbin Winder

1. Demonstrate and explain how to thread the bobbin winder.

2. Stress the importance of passing the thread through the bobbin winder tension disks. Click the
tension disks just as you did on the main tension post of the machine.

3. Have trainees thread the bobbin winder on the machine and correct any error.

4. Have the trainees to practise several times. Show how to engage the bobbin winder to the belt
drive.

5. Question the trainees and let them explain the steps to you as they do the job.

6. Presser foot should be in up position while winding the bobbin

Bobbin Loading
1. Place the trainee to you left during the demonstration.

2. Place the bobbin in the bobbin case allowing 5" of thread to hang from the end of the wound
bobbin.

3. Grasp the thread between the thumb and the forefinger.

4. Pull the thread to the bobbin case slot and lay the thread flat on top of the bobbin case next to
the bobbin case spring.

5. Pull down and away on the thread until it clicks into the proper position under the tip of the
bobbin case tension spring.

6. Leave about 5" of thread hanging from the bobbin case and break off any surplus

7. Repeat this demonstration several times and question the trainee on each step. Have the
trainee tell you how to do the job. Patiently correct all errors.

8. Have the trainee perform this job alone several times until it is done well.

Inserting the loaded Bobbin Case into the Machine Hook

1. Place trainee on your left.

2. Open the sliding plate to the left of the machine feed

3. Have the bobbin case and bobbin ready to insert into the hook

4. Hold the bobbin case in the left hand between the thumb and the middle finger with the
bobbin case latch pulled up by the index finger toward the palm of the hand.

5. Be sure that the overhang of the thread is over the latch and that the large case opening is held
up.

6. Stress that as the case is inserted toward the hook and when the hand travels under the table,
the case must be tilted slightly upward so that the bobbin will not fall out.

7. Now insert the bobbin case into the hook, making sure that the trainee is in position to see your
action clearly.

8. As you complete the demonstration, make certain that the trainee hears the bobbin case click
into position in the hook. IMPORTANT INSTRUCTION
9. Warn the trainee that if the case does not click in the hook, the machine will not sew. The case
will become jammed and the needle and the case will be damaged.

10. Continue to have the trainee watch closely as you remove the bobbin case. With your thumb,
open the bobbin case latch and pull out the bobbin case from the hook (tilt the bobbin case
upward again as you pull it out).

11. Question the trainee on all points covered and have him/her tell you the method completely.
Correct errors and repeat the demonstration slowly and explain as you go from step to step.
Have the trainee sit down at the machine and practise.

12. After the student is able to do this with the sliding plate open and the Bobbin Loading is
visible, he/she needs to able to load it blindly. Close the slide plate and demonstrate loading
blindly. Do this several times and stress that the bobbin case must click into the hook.

13. Trainee must practise for at least 10 minutes until he/ she does this process well.

Bridging the Bobbin Thread with the Top Thread

1. Place the trainee on your left, sit in a normal sewing position and release the motor brake.
(motor is switched off)

2. Demonstrate how to release the brake and clutch of the machine.

3. Place both feet on the treadle and push forward slightly with the toes, keeping the foot on the
pedal.

4. Have the trainee observe your foot motions on the pedal s you slowly move it downward with
your toes and upward with your heel.

5. Have the trainee sit down and do this exercise. Ask the trainee to watch his /her foot motions
on the pedal.

6. Instruct the trainee to push up with the heel on the pedal and with the palm 0f the right hand to
grasp the rim of the hand wheel on the topside. Warn of the hazard of fingers getting caught
under the belt.

7. Instruct the trainee to move the hand wheel towards him/her and explain that this is the
direction the machine runs.

8. The trainee will note that the hand wheel is locked.

9. By having the trainee release heel pressure and by applying light toe pressure on the pedal, the
hand wheel will turn freely.
10. Question the trainee on all points and let him/her practise, releasing and locking the hand
wheel by heel and toe method several times. Practice this exercise until it is mastered.

11. Demonstrate this exercise with the machine motor on show the point at which the hand wheel
starts to turn. Have the trainee place a hand on the hand wheel as you slowly engage the
clutch. This gives the trainee the feel of the clutch.

12. Have the trainee practice the above exercise with power on until he/she can free the hand
wheel without engaging the clutch stress control (i.e. motor starts to run the machine).

13. Have the trainee rise and stand on your left.

14. Thread the machine quickly and load the bobbin case in to the hook.

15. Turn the hand wheel till the needle bar is up and the thread take up is at its highest point.

16. Release about 10" to 12" of thread from the needle holding the thread in your left hand.

17. Release the brake and turn the hand wheel slowly toward you, allowing the needle to descend
into the hook.

18. Continue turning till the needle comes up above the throat plate.

19. Show the point at which the Needle thread pulls the bobbin thread up through the throat plate.

20. Pull the bobbin thread fully up through the throat plate – show the point at which both needle
thread and bobbin thread come easily through.

21. Hold both threads together; lift the presser foot and push the thread between the two tongues
of the Presser Foot and throat plate about 6” towards the far side of the machine.

22. Insert a fabric piece under the presser foot and lower it.

23. Switch on the machine, wait 5 seconds till the motor reaches maximum speed and slowly start
sewing.

24. Have the trainee practise the steps (14) to (23) several times until he/she can do the
needle/bobbin thread bridging well.
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 Training and Learning Manuals

Industrial Sewing Machine Operator (ISMO) Industrial Sewing Machine Operator (ISMO)
Industrial Sewing Machine Operator (ISMO) Industrial Sewing Machine Operator (ISMO)
Training Manual Advanced Training Manual
Advanced Training Manual Training Manual
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Training Video Advanced Training Training Video Advanced Training
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Formats for Recruitment, Training and Assessment

Tools for Recruitment Tests

ISHA Learning offers Training and Learning Enablement Kits to organizations that offer training for
the apparel industry.

ISHA Training and Learning Enablement Kits are based on years of field experience and research
combined with cutting edge technology tools to provide accelerated, effective learning experiences.
These Kits include Trainer's Manuals, Trainee's Manuals, Video, Equipment for recruitment tests
and Formats for Recruitment, Training and Assessment along with 'Train The Trainer' services.