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Taiwan Oolong Cultivars

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Taiwan Qing Xin Tea Cultivar : 

台灣青心茶叶
Qing Xin :  青心
Meaning : emerald or green heart [a colour between green and blue]
This is a small leaf China Cultivar often chosen for high mountain teas and often referred to as
'King of the mountains' in Taiwan.  It is favoured because it has a thick leaf, grows slowly at high
altitude and is highly aromatic.  This very expressive cultivar is suited to high mountains :
its thicker leaf that grows at a slower pace offering a good yield for high mountain growers. 青心
gives a more expressive tea when grown at altitude.  This is in comparison to other cultivars which
proliferate in lower areas but do not change dramatically or will simply not thrive if grown higher
up.  If you put a low grown Qing Xin :  青心 next to a high altitude Qing Xin :  青心 you will notice
a difference.  Both will certainly deliver floral notes but the higher grown will have more layers and
intensity while the lower will have a shallower expressiveness 
This is the translated text from the Tea Research centre of Taiwan : Introduced from the
mainland. Also known as Qingxin, Oolong (Zhudong), Chongzai, Zhengjia, Soft Branch Oolong,
and Green Heart Oolong (literal translation). The main distribution areas are Wenshan, Haishan,
Zhongli, Nantou, Mingjian, and all high mountain growing areas of the island.  It is a late-growing
species and is the main cultivated species in Taiwan. The leaf color is darker and shinier than
other varieties. The color of the main vein and the side vein is light and obvious.  The color of the
tea buds is often purple. The tree is slightly weaker. It is planted in barren land or newly
cultivated  land. It has a low survival rate and is prone to termites and branch blight. It has weak
resistance to diseases and insect pests and weak drought tolerance. Both alpine oolong tea and
Baozhong tea are good. We believe it also make a very nice black tea!

TTES 12 Jin Xuan 金萱


Appearance :  An oblong shaped leaf, slightly wider with well defined larger 'teeth' at the leaf
edge.  
Meaning : This has no 'meaning' as such but is named after the famous director of TRES  who
developed it in the 70s and 80s - one component is from his grandmothers name & one from his
mothers.  He developed this cultivar to bring Taiwanese tea to a new level - he also developed the T-
13 known as 'Jade oolong' but this is less known & harder to grow as it is more prone to pests.  
Teas made with Jin Xuan leaves are often described as having 'creamy/milky tones &
texture' with 'underlying smoothness and sweetness'. Our skilled friends share how this character is
'best brought out through a controlled slow baking' where a tea maker will 'aim to bring out the
sweetness while still keeping the flowery aroma and notes'. 
Alongside Qing Xin :  青心  TTES 12 Jin Xuan  金萱  is the most common cultivar for Dong
Ding  The most famous area for Dong Ding [LUGU Town] has yearly competitions for teas made
from both of these cultivars. 青心  TTES 12 cultivar is actually a hybrid designed as an improvement
on previous cultivars which performs well up to high altitudes.  However it is rarely found above
1000 or 1100 metres - where it is you would find a higher concentration in aromatic material
delivering more expressiveness and a rich texture.  But you rarely find Jin Xuan at altitude for
example in Lishan [>1800 metres].  The reason for this is economics.  As Jin Xuan  delivers so well
at low altitudes it makes little sense to make the effort to plant it high with all the additional risks
this brings [temperature fluctuations /high costs].  

Si Ji Chun
Meaning : 'four seasons of Spring' - a tea that tastes as good as the Spring tea all the months of the
year.  
This is the most important cultivar around the MingJian township area - the area with the highest
concentration of growers and producers in Taiwan.  In fact when people think of this area they think
of Siji Chun.  It is a fast growing cultivar and can sometimes yield up to 6-7 pluckings a
year [although these types of yield may be linked to less favourable agricultural practices]  As it
grows very quickly the leaf is thinner making the tea less suitable for gong fu brewing.  However it
is flambouyant and fragrant meaning it has become very popular in the food and beverage industry
especially for bottled teas.  This interest has brought a lot of big businesses to the tea communities
here which has pushed the prices down.  With four season 'Si Ji Chun' teas being less expensive
there is sometimes a snobbery labelling them as inferior - the reality is that the skill set needed to
make these teas is the same as is needed to make LiShan at 2000m - Lishan however fetches 10 x
more.  So although you may get greater complexity in the high mountain teas [because this is not
guaranteed] it must also be remembered that the high cost is also attributable to the
unpredictable nature of high mountain farming which deliver lower volumes .  The hands that make
the tea and the processing skill is the same as these low mountain offerings.  This is all part of the
ongoing conversation about tea and highlights the importance of transparency.  

Taiwanese Wuyi Cultivar


This slow growing cultivar, rare and 'out of favour' in Taiwan today [Taiwan is most famous for its
fragrant high mountain teas] this cultivar was brought to Taiwan from northern Fujian before the
Japanese rule.   Obviously having been cultivated in a very different environment from its relations
in China there are differences which you can judge for yourself in the cup but for it is undeniable
that the mineral and stone fruit descriptions so widely used for Rock Teas is present.  

• Chin-Shin (Green-centered) — usually only lightly oxidized and labeled as “Pouchong”


(Light Oolong). Variations include Chin-Shin Da Pan, Si-Ji-Chun, Chin-Shin Oolong, Chin-
Shin Gan Zai, TTES No.7, TTES No.8, and TTES No.18.
• Soft-stem — the original oolong cultivar introduced to Taiwan in the 1850s from Fujian,
China; often confused with Chin-shin; used to make Dong-Ding oolong. Even though it is
weaker growing and less disease-resistant than Chin-Shin, it is still grown for special orders
and because some tea farmers have an affinity for it.
• Jin Xuan (Golden Tiger Lily, Day Lily, TTES No.12, Chinhsuan, Taiwan #12) — has
higher growth rate, better disease-resistance, very charming “creamy” aroma, sometimes
sugarcane-like, a natural milky buttery flavor with fruit notes, and a soft liquid quality.
• Cui Yu (Green Jade, TTES No.13, Tzuiyu, Taiwan #13) — about a medium growth rate
but a loose form so that machine harvesting is difficult, liquid has a unique and intensely
floral/orchid aroma.
• Si-Ji (Four Season, “Da-To-Hwei son,” “Si-Ji Chuan,” Four-season Spring) — a
naturally hybrid cultivar with a strong growth rate year round; the tea has an intense
floral/fruity aroma that isn’t as “wide” feeling or as exquisite as Chin-shin.
• Luanze (Qing-Xin, Green Heart) — used to make Dong-Ding oolong (the authentic
version is made only from tea leaves grown on Dong Ding Mountain, 700-1200 meters
elevation), traditionally only the tea shoots (the bud and 2-3 leaves) are used and oxidized to
25-35%; also used to make Baozhongs that are lightly oxidized and range in flavor from
light and sweet like Japanese sencha to floral to fruity.
• Formosa — large-leaved cultivar named after the island of Formosa (now Taiwan); fragrant
and floral with a persistent finish; a combination of growing environment and fine
processing done by true tea craftsmen.
• Gaoshan — has five varieties (Meishan, Yushan, Wushe, Lishan, and Alishan – priciest and
most highly regarded), is similar to Qing-Xin used to make Dong-Ding (medium oxidation,
withering, and rolling); some of the oolongs made from this cultivar are aged and all have
fairly complex flavors involving fruits, florals, and a sweetness akin to sugarcane.
(“TTES” means “Taiwan Tea Experiment Station” and is used by tea researchers to designate their
successes.)

Taiwanese Cultivars
Tea names are on their own quite confusing. Cultivars are often but not always used as the principal
name for a tea (Jin Xuan, Tieguanyin) and naming conventions vary (high-mountain tea names
usually refer to the tea-growing region, Baozhong refers to the processing method).

Oolong (Chin-hsin, Qing Xin)


One of the highest quality and most widely harvested cultivars in Taiwan, Chin-hsin was one of
the original cultivars chosen by the Japanese to grow in Taiwan. It has a slower growth-rate than
many of the newer cultivars developed by TRES. Chin-hsin is still used for most higher-end teas,
including nearly all high-mountain gaoshan (Alishan, Lishan, Da Yu Ling, etc.), Dong-Ding and
Baozhong. Because of its exceptional quality Chin-hsin is especially dominant as you move to
higher elevation tea. One drawback for farmers is Chin-hsin’s slower growth rate and lower disease
resistance. Slower growth helps to develop further complexity compared with faster-growing
cultivars. It can be a red flag if a high-mountain tea is not the Chin-hsin cultivar, a sign that the
farmer might be cutting corners. Specifically look out for Alishan mountain Jin Xuan tea, which
fetches a lower price than Chin-hsin Alishan tea and should be looked at differently. This is just a
general rule and there are some notable exceptions.
Editor’s Note: There are actually a number of different cultivars within this category. This is a
common area of misinformation. For simplicity sake, these cultivars (Chin-hsin, Luanze, etc.) can
be viewed as being somewhat similar.
Chin-hsin Da Pa
Chin-hsin Da Pa is not as popular as Chin-hsin and is predominantly used for Oriental Beauty. This
cultivar is sweeter than Chin-hsin and produces a rich honey-like flavor. Chin-hsin Da Pa leaves are
more oval. Chin-hsin Da Pa is also thought to originate from China and was introduced to Taiwan
around the same time as Chin-hsin.

Jin Xuan
Jin Xuan is the most well-known Taiwanese cultivars and is frequently sold by its cultivar name.
Developed by TRES in the early 1980s Jin Xuan was alternatively named #12 or 2027 (by TRES).
#12 is famous for its milky, creamy taste and fragrant smell; these characteristics making it a
popular gateway tea for newcomers to Taiwanese oolong. Jin Xuan is also commonly sold as a
flavored tea with additives enhancing the milkiness of the tea. A common trick practiced by
disingenuous farmers/vendors is selling unflavored Jin Xuan as an unflavored tea. #12 is especially
popular amongst farmers at lower elevations as it offers better disease resistance and a quicker
growth rate (~20-40% faster) than the more premium Chin-hsin. Some high-mountain farmers will
also harvest Jin Xuan on Alishan mountain (the most inexpensive of Taiwanese gaoshan) usually
under 1600 meters. Jin Xuan Alishan will normally be a cheaper per oz. than Chin-hsin Alishan.

Cui Yu (Jade Oolong)


Like Jin Xuan, Cui Yu was developed by TRES in the 1980s. Cui Yu is usually referred to by its
cultivar name although it was also named #13 or 2029. While it’s slightly more difficult to find than
Four Seasons or Jin Xuan amongst western-facing vendors, No. 13 is extremely popular in Taiwan
and Asia and ranks as the third most consumed fragrant oolong. Cui Yu is only grown at lower
elevations (Jade Oolong’s stem contains too much water for high-mountain growth) and offers
significantly better yields than Chin-hsin. Compared with Jin Xuan, Cui Yu has a more floral and
less creamy flavor-profile (both are extremely fragrant).

Si-ji (Four Seasons Oolong)


Si-ji is grown primarily at lower-elevation and processed as a green-oolong, Si-ji or Four Seasons
oolong was discovered by a farmer in Northern Taiwan (Muzha) and is thought to be a crossbreed
between Chin-hsin and a Wuyi cultivar. Si-ji was named four seasons for its extremely fast growth
rate, as it can be harvested up to six times a year. This makes it a popular and convenient choice for
farmers. Si-ji, Cui Yu, and Jin Xuan can all be purchased at much lower-prices than higher-elevation
oolongs. Flavor wise Si-ji has a stronger fruity aroma and taste than other popular Taiwanese
cultivars.

Tieguanyin
Tieguanyin in Taiwan is processed very differently from its more famous Chinese cousin.
Frequently roasted and occasionally aged, Taiwanese Tieguanyin has a slower growth rate than all
other commonly grown cultivars in Taiwan and is more expensive than all other Taiwanese
cultivars. Tieguanyin is usually grown in Muzha (Northern Taiwan) at medium elevations and has a
nutty, slightly floral flavor.
Fo Shou (Buddha’s Hand)
Like Tieguanyin, Fo Shou is both a mainland Chinese tea and is sold as it’s cultivar name. Fo Shou
is noted for it’s very large leaves Usually processed with a light roast, Fo Shou has a strong fruity
flavor and a full body. It is most frequently found in Pinglin.

White Hair Monkey


Along with Chin-hsin Da Pa is commonly used for Oriental Beauty.

Assam #8 (Black Tea)


When the Japanese established TRES the goal was to establish Taiwan as an exporter of black teas.
This effort began with the introduction of the Assamic variety to Taiwan in the 1920s. After the
Japanese left Taiwan black tea production fell considerably. While there is still minor production in
the Sun Moon Lake region there are some extremely interesting versions of aged Taiwanese
Assamica tea (1,2). Assam #8 was an early development by TRES and represents a refined version
of the original Assam variety in Taiwan. This cultivar is still used, although the newer Ruby #18 is a
more popular black tea cultivar in modern day Taiwan.

Ruby #18 (Black Tea)


Developed by TRES in 1999, Ruby #18 is a cross between a local Taiwanese wild strain and the
Assam variety. #18 is grown at a low elevation in the Yuchi township near Sun Moon Lake (near the
original black tea production). Naturally sweet, Ruby #18 is a great everyday tea and is the most
popular black tea cultivar grown in Taiwan.

Cultivar Cheat Sheet, Tea Popular Names [Ordered by approximate popularity]


Tea Type Cultivars
Alishan Oolong Chin-hsin Jin Xuan Si-ji
Lishan Oolong Chin-hsin
Shan Li Xi Oolong Chin-hsin
Da Yu Ling Oolong Chin-hsin
Baozhong Oolong Chin-hsin Si-ji Jin Xuan Cui Yu
Jin Xuan Oolong Jin Xuan
Si-ji (Four
Oolong Si-ji
Seasons)
Cui Yu (Jade
Oolong Cui Yu
Oolong)
Dong Ding Oolong Chin-hsin
Tieguanyin Oolong Tieguanyin
White Hair
Oriental Beauty Oolong Chin-hsin Da Pa Cui Yu Jin Xuan
Monkey
Fo Shou Oolong Fo Shou
Taiwanese Black
Black Ruby #18 Assamica #8
Tea
Ruby #18 Black Ruby #18

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