LSD
LSD
LSD
from
"Psychedelic Guide to the Preparation of the Eucharist"
Preparatory arrangements:
Starting material may be any lysergic acid derivative, from ergot on rye grain or from
culture, or morning glory seeds or from synthetic sources. Preparation #1 uses any
amide, or lysergic acid as starting material. Preparations #2 and #3 must start with
lysergic acid only, prepared from the amides as follows:
10 g of any lysergic acid amide from various natural sources dissolved in 200 ml of
methanolic KOH solution and the methanol removed immediately in vacuo. The
residue is treated with 200 ml of an 8% aqueous solution of KOH and the mixture
heated on a steam bath for one hour. A stream of nitrogen gas is passed through the
flask during heating and the evolved NH3 gas may be titrated is HCl to follow the
reaction. The alkaline solution is made neutral to congo red with tartaric acid, filtered,
cleaned by extraction with ether, the aqueous solution filtered and evaporated.
Digest with MeOH to remove some of the coloured material from the crystals of
lysergic acid.
Arrange the lighting in the lab similarly to that of a dark room. Use photographic red
and yellow safety lights, as lysergic acid derivatives are decomposed when light is
present. Rubber gloves must be worn due to the highly poisonous nature of ergot
alkaloids. A hair drier, or, better, a flash evaporator, is necessary to speed up steps
where evaporation is necessary.
Preparation #1
Place one volume of powdered ergot alkaloid material in a tiny roundbottom flask and
add two volumes of anhydrous hydrazine. An alternate procedure uses a sealed tube
in which the reagents are heated at 112 C. The mixture is refluxed (or heated) for 30
minutes. Add 1.5 volumes of H2O and boil 15 minutes. On cooling in the refrigerator,
isolysergic acid hydrazide is crystallised.
Chill all reagents and have ice handy. Dissolve 2.82 g hydrazine rapidly in 100 ml 0.1
N ice-cold HCl using an ice bath to keep the reaction vessel at 0 C. 100 ml ice-cold
0.1 N NaNO2 is added and after 2 to 3 minutes vigorous stirring, 130 ml more HCl is
added dropwise with vigorous stirring again in an ice bath. After 5 minutes, neutralise
the solution with NaHCO3 saturated sol. and extract with ether. Remove the aqueous
solution and try to dissolve the gummy substance in ether. Adjust the ether solution
by adding 3 g diethylamine per 300 ml ether extract. Allow to stand in the dark,
gradually warming up to 20 C over a period of 24 hours. Evaporate in vacuum and
treat as indicated in the purification section for conversion of iso-lysergic amides to
lysergic acid amides.
Preparation #2
Preparation #3
This procedure gives good yield and is very fast with little iso-lysergic acid being
formed (its effect are mildly unpleasant). However, the stoichometry must be exact
or yields will drop.
A carefully dried 22 litre RB flask fitted with an ice bath, condenser, dropping funnel
and mechanical stirrer is charged with 10 to 11 litres of dimethylformamide (freshly
distilled under reduced pressure). The condenser and dropping funnel are both
protected against atmospheric moisture. 2 lb of sulfur trioxide (Sulfan B) are
introduced dropwise, very cautiously stirring, during 4 to 5 hours. The temperature is
kept at 0-5 C throughout the addition. After the addition is complete, the mixture is
stirred for 1-2 hours until some separated, crystalline sulfur trioxide-
dimethylformamide complex has dissolved. The reagent is transferred to an air- tight
automatic pipette for convenient dispensing, and kept in the cold. Although the
reagent, which is colourless, may change from yellow to red, its efficiency remains
unimpaired for three to four months in cold storage. An aliquot is dissolved in water
and titrated with standard NaOH to a phenolphthalein end point.
A solution of 7.15 g of d-lysergic acid mono hydrate (25 mmol) and 1.06 g of lithium
hydroxide hydrate (25 mmol) in 200 ml of MeOH is prepared. The solvent is distilled
on the steam bath under reduced pressure. the residue of glass-like lithium lysergate
is dissolved in 400 ml of anhydrous dimethyl formamide. From this solution about 200
ml of the dimethyl formamide is distilled off at 15 ml pressure through a 12 inch
helices packed column. the resulting anhydrous solution of lithium lysergate left
behind is cooled to 0 C and, with stirring, treated rapidly with 500 ml of SO3-DMF
solution (1.00 molar). The mixture is stirred in the cold for 10 minutes and then 9.14
g (125.0 mmol) of diethylamine is added. The stirring and cooling are continued for
10 minutes longer, when 400 ml of water is added to decompose the reaction
complex. After mixing thoroughly, 200 ml of saturated aqueous saline solution is
added. The amide product is isolated by repeated extraction with 500 ml portions of
ethylene dichloride. the combined extract is dried and then concentrated to a syrup
under reduced pressure. Do not heat up the syrup during concentration. the LSD may
crystallise out, but the crystals and the mother liquor may be chromatographed
according to the instructions on purification.
Purification of LSD-25
The material obtained by any of these three preparations may contain both lysergic
acid and iso-lysergic acid amides. Preparation #1 contains mostly iso-lysergic
diethylamide and must be converted prior to separation. For this material, go to Step
II first.
The material is dissolved in a 3:1 mixture of benzene and chloroform. Pack the
chromatography column with a slurry of basic alumina in benzene so that a 1 inch
column is six inches long. Drain the solvent to the top of the alumina column and
carefully add an aliquot of the LSD-solvent solution containing 50 ml of solvent and 1
g LSD. Run this through the column, following the fastest moving fluorescent band.
After it has been collected, strip the remaining material from the column by washing
with MeOH. Use the UV light sparingly to prevent excessive damage to the
compounds. Evaporate the second fraction in vacuo and set aside for Step II. The
fraction containing the pure LSD is concentrated in vacuo and the syrup will
crystallise slowly. This material may be converted to the tartrate by tartaric acid and
the LSD tartrate conveniently crystallised. MP 190-196 C.
Dissolve the residue derived from the methanol stripping of the column in a minimum
amount of alcohol. Add twice that volume of 4 N alcoholic KOH solution and allow the
mixture to stand at room temperature for several hours. Neutralise with dilute HCl,
make slightly basic with NH4OH and extract with chloroform or ethylene dichloride as
in preparations #1 or #2. Evaporate in vacuo and chromatograph as in the previous
step.
Note: Lysergic acid compounds are unstable to heat, light and oxygen. In any form it
helps to add ascorbic acid as an anti- oxidant, keeping the container tightly closed,
light-tight with aluminum foil, and in a refrigerator.
"Nazi Labs"
It almost doesn't matter what position you hold in law enforcement.
Patrolman, detective, task force officer, correctional
officer, narcotics agent, federal, state, county or local. If you have
not encountered a clandestine methamphetamine lab
yet, you soon will. The occurrence of meth labs in our communities is
growing an outrageous rate. These labs seem to be
spreading from the southwest in a fan pattern to the north, west and
east. The old P2P or phenyl-2-propanone type labs
seem to be a thing of the past. The "new" labs spreading throughout our
communities are usually one of two kinds.
Commonly referred to as "Red Phosphorus", ("Red P" or "Cold Cook"
labs) and "Nazi", ("Ammonia" or "Birch" labs).
Both of these labs are quick, relatively easy and result in extremely
pure methamphetamine product.
"Nazi" labs are conducted in just about any place you can imagine
because they are very compact and mobile. Hotel rooms,
apartments, residences, mobile homes, trailers, storage sheds, barns,
and even roadside in pickup trucks and other
vehicles.
Extraction
50grams
Reaction
In the next phase, the "cook" will place small pieces of sodium or
lithium metal into the dish containing the ephedrine
or pseudoephedrine powder. Lithium is the most commonly used catalyst
because it is easily obtained from lithium camera
batteries. These batteries are literally torn apart, using pliers, to
remove the lithium metal strip from inside of the
battery. Lithium is an extremely reactive metal that will react
violently with water creating heat and explosive hydrogen
gas. Lithium will even ignite from the moisture in the air. This type
of ignition could potentially detonate the
flammable atmosphere created by the earlier evaporated solvents.
After placing the pieces of lithium into the powder, anhydrous ammonia
is slowly dripped and stirred into the mixture.
The chemical reaction that occurs causes the solution to turn dark
blue to blackish purple in color. Once all of the
Powder and lithium is dissolved into the solution of anhydrous ammonia
the reaction must be stopped or quenched. This
is done by slowly adding water. This is very dangerous because any
residual lithium could react violently with the
water and cause fire or explosion. Once the reaction is quenched the
ammonia is allowed to evaporate off (which occurs
fairly rapidly at room temperature). This will leave a thick, white
paste in the dish which will consist of
Methamphetamine base (meth oil), water and impurities.
The "cook" will then pour ether into the dish and stir it into the
paste. This mixture is then poured into a mason jar.
Powdering Out
another recipe
1- Grind up 150 grams of morning glory seeds or Hawaiian wood rose seeds.
2- In 130 cc. of petroleum ether, soak the seeds for two days.
3- Filter the solution through a tight screen.
4- Throw away the liquid, and allow the seed mush to dry.
5- For two days allow the mush to soak in 110 cc. of wood alcohol.
6- Filter the solution again, saving the liquid and labeling it "1".
7- Resoak the mush in 110 cc. of wood alcohol for two days.
8- Filter and throw away the mush.
9- Add the liquid from the second soak to the solution labeled "1".
10 - Pour the liquid into a cookie tray and allow it to evaporate.
11 - When all the liquid has evaporated, a yellow gum remains.
This should be scraped up and put into capsules.
Hydroponic Gardening
Materials
1 Footlocker or trunk, bigger is better.
1 Rubbermaid dishpan that just fits on the bottom of the trunk, when the
trunk is turned on its side (this will make more sense in a few
minutes,
I used a 12 quart one)
3-4 blocks of FLORAL FOAM (Preferably agricultural grade, as it does not
have preservatives in it, but Oasis will do if it is completely
rinsed/soaked first)
1 Muffin Fan (look in computer surplus stores)
1 50 WATT High Pressure Sodium lamp (Or your lamp of choice)
1 roll of tin foil
Comments on Cost
If you bought all this stuff, it would run about 100 bucks... However,
I got my trunk at a yard sale for $5, had the fan lying around, and
through some creative scrounging on a public bike trail late at night,
came up with the HPS lamp and ballast for free. The dishpan came from a
'Everything's a dollar' store, and foam is cheap... I think I spent $30
total (including fertilizer, which I will discuss later)
What to do with this stuff
First, cut the handle off of one end of the trunk, then stand the thing
up on that end. Sitting it on a phone book with the door hanging off
the end makes it much easier to open and close.
Then install the fan... I put mine on the top of the box, but It could
go in the top back corner if light leakage is important. A good deal of
light will be exiting the fanhole (well, more than anywhere else)...
keep this in mind. I also painted the fanblades white in an attempt to
reflect the light back into the box, but Im not sure if it worked... it
probably isnt necessary.
Put some intake holes along the bottom of the box, these will be
covered with foil later, so not too much light will be leaking out.
Cover the entire inside of the box with foil, excluding the fan area,
and where you plan on installing the lamp. I used duct tape to affix it
to the walls/door, and I LEFT IT UNATTATCHED AT THE BOTTOM so air could
come through the intake holes.
Install the lamp! I put mine at the very top center of the door, with
the bulb sticking straight out, so it enters the rest of the box when
the door is closed. This made it easier to wire, but In the future, I
would put it on the back wall of the box, as less of your room will be
illuminated when you open the thing (it's kind of like opening up the
sun).
Thoughts on Lamps
According to Ed Rosenthol (believe him if you want to, ignore him if
you
dont) HPS lamps are some of the best growing lamps made, especially
when
efficiency is an issue. These lamps give off an amberish glow, and
are often
used to light parking lots, bike trails, etc. They operate on a very
high
voltage, and require a transformer or ballast to work. Metal Halide
lamps
(used in photographic and theatrical lamps) are smaller, and much
whiter,
and usually do not require ballast, but they use up a hell of a lot
more
energy.
I used a Flurescent to sprout the plants, and switched to HPS after
they had developed 3 sets of leaves (about 48 hours after germination)
This was acceptable.
Next, it is time to deal with the foam and plant. I soak the foam
overnight in a nutrient-water mixture (more on that later) after rinsing
it extremely well. Then I cut a brick or 2 into 1" cubes, and plant one
seed in each cube. Planting in foam means you place the sead on the
foam,
and push it in with a small wire or something similar, so the seed is
surrounded as much as possible by the wet foam. The cubes are placed in
the dishpan, and 1/2" of water-nutrient mixture is added to the pan.
The
foam will suck up water and nutrients as necessary, so it is important
to
try to keep the water level at about 1/2". It is better for the water
to
be slightly too low (but not dry) than too high.
The seeds can take as long as a week or 10 days to germinate, do not
worry
if nothing happens at first, and it seems that I never get more than
about
15% of my planted seeds to sprout. This suggests a fault somewhere in my
system, but I havent identified it yet, no do I especially care. I just
plant a LOT of seeds, and then use the best seedlings for my gardening.
Usually a smoking-buddy or someone will take a free marijuana seedling
off
your hands with a minimum of hassle.
About 3 days after germination, a few pairs of leaves should've formed.
Now is the time to transplant. And transplanting is the glory of foam.
All you need to do to transplant things growing in foam, is put the
small
block of foam (with the plant in it) on top of the larger block , and
rub
them together a few times. The roots will grow out of the small cube,
and
into the bigger one in a matter of days. I managed to find foam in 12"
cubes... cutting these in half gave me 2 pieces of 12"x12"x6" foam, and
each of those can easily hold one plant, probably 2. I personally grow
only one plant in each trunk, but 2 smaller ones are probably perfectly
acceptable.
Lighting
When I transplant is when I turn on the HPS lamp. It then stays on for
24 hours/7days until the plant is 8-15 inches tall. Then it is time to
force flowering. This can be done by giving the plants a 10-16 hour
dark
period in each 24 hour day (this should be done using a cheap timer like
people use when they go away on vacation in an attempt to foil
burglers)
In a matter of 3 weeks, sex should be apparent on the plants... REMOVE
THE
MALES. Keep the dark period constant until it is time to pick, dry and
enjoy.
A word on water-nutrient mixtures
Floram foam should be totally inert, meaning it does not provide the
plant
with ANYTHING except something for the roots to grow in. Thus all
nutrients that the plant would get from the soil MUST be in the water.
Read a few books on hydroponics to figure out what mixture suits you
best,
I personally use a liquid plant food that shows on its label an N-P-N
count of 10-15-10. This seems to work fairly well for me. I know
people
who use 20-20-20, and quite a few who use different foods during
different
stages of growth. Read up on the subject and decide for yourself.
Anyway, this was not ment to be a 'HOW TO GROW WEED' type of post, but
apparently it has become one (sort of). It was ment to talk about my
grow
room, as it was described earlier in this post. I have found that a
single plant can grow to maturity without any trouble in this space,
and 2
smaller plants (forced to flower at about 8 inches, instead of the 10-12
that I personally use) would probably be ok too.
This grow room is very portable (unplug it and take it with you)
clandestine (it looks like a trunk to me (not an uncommon thing in a
college dormatory if you are a student), and it can be locked with a
padlock) and effective (trust me!)
I assume one could grow using standard soil and such in this thing, but
I
have had great success with foam, and it is much easier to keep it
watered. Rockwool has been sugested to me as a medium, but I dont even
know where to buy it... apparently it is much like foam in that it is
inert, and transplanting is a breeze.
Happy Growing
To 40 g of thin aluminum foil cut in 1 inch squares (in a 2 L wide mouth Erlenmeyer
flask) there was added 1400 mL H2O containing 1 g mercuric chloride.
Amalgamation was allowed to proceed until there was the evolution of fine bubbles,
the formation of a light grey precipitate, and the appearance of occasional silvery
spots on the surface of the aluminum. This takes between 15 and 30 min depending
on the freshness of the surfaces, the temperature of the H2O, and the thickness of
the aluminum foil. (Aluminum foil thickness varies from country to country.) The H2O
was removed by decantation, and the aluminum was washed with 2x1400 mL of
fresh H2O. The residual H2O from the final washing was removed as thoroughly as
possible by shaking, and there was added, in succession and with swirling, 60 g
methylamine hydrochloride dissolved in 60 mL warm H2O, 180 mL IPA, 145 mL 25%
NaOH, 53 g 3,4-methylenedioxyphenylacetone, and finally 350 mL IPA. If the
available form of methylamine is the aqueous solution of the free base, the following
sequence can be substituted: add, in succession, 76 mL 40% aqueous methylamine,
180 mL IPA, a suspension of 50 g NaCl in 140 mL H2O that contains 25 mL 25%
NaOH, 53 g 3,4-methylenedioxyphenylacetone, and finally 350 mL IPA. The
exothermic reaction was kept below 60 ° C with occasional immersion into cold water
and, when it was thermally stable, it was allowed to stand until it had returned to
room temperature with all the insolubles settled to the bottom as a grey sludge. The
clear yellow overhead was decanted and the sludge removed by filtration and washed
with MeOH. The combined decantation, mother liquors and washes, were stripped of
solvent under vacuum, the residue suspended in 2400 ml of H2O, and sufficient HCl
added to make the phase distinctly acidic. This was then washed with 3x75 mL
CH2Cl2, made basic with 25% NaOH, and extracted with 3x100 mL of CH2Cl2. After
removal of the solvent from the combined extracts, there remained 55 g of an amber
oil which was distilled at 100-110 ° C at 0.4 mm/Hg producing 41 g of an off-white
liquid. This was dissolved in 200 mL IPA, neutralized with about 17 mL of
concentrated HCl, and then treated with 400 mL anhydrous Et2O. After filtering off
the white crystals, washing with an IPA/Et2O mixture, (2:1), with Et2O, and final air
drying, there was obtained 42.0 g of 3,4-methylenedioxy-N-methylamphetamine
(MDMA) as a fine white crystal. The actual form that the final salt takes depends
upon the temperature and concentration at the moment of the initial crystallization.
It can be anhydrous, or it can be any of several hydrated forms. Only the anhydrous
form has a sharp mp; the published reports describe all possible one degree melting
point values over the range from 148-153 ° C. The variously hydrated polymorphs
have distinct infrared spectra, but have broad mps that depend on the rate of
heating.
DOSAGE: 80 - 150 mg.
DURATION: 4 - 6 h.
(with 100 mg) Beforehand, I was aware of a dull, uncaring tiredness that might have
reflected too little sleep, and I took a modest level of MDMA to see if it might serve
me as a stimulant. I napped for a half hour or so, and woke up definitely not
improved. The feeling of insufficient energy and lack of spark that I'd felt before had
become something quite strong, and might be characterized as a firm feeling of
negativity about everything that had to be done and everything I had been looking
forward to. So I set about my several tasks with no pleasure or enjoyment and I
hummed a little tune to myself during these activities which had words that went: 'I
shouldn't have done that, oh yes, I shouldn't have done that, oh no, I shouldn't have
done that; it was a mistake.' Then I would start over again from the beginning. I was
stuck in a gray space for quite a while, and there was nothing to do but keep doing
what I had to do. After about 6 hours, I could see the whole mental state
disintegrating and my pleasant feelings were coming back. But so was my plain,
ornery tiredness. MDMA does not work like Dexedrine.
(with 120 mg) I feel absolutely clean inside, and there is nothing but pure euphoria.
I have never felt so great, or believed this to be possible. The cleanliness, clarity, and
marvelous feeling of solid inner strength continued throughout the rest of the day,
and evening, and through the next day. I am overcome by the profundity of the
experience, and how much more powerful it was than previous experiences, for no
apparent reason, other than a continually improving state of being. All the next day I
felt like 'a citizen of the universe' rather than a citizen of the planet, completely
disconnecting time and flowing easily from one activity to the next.
(with 120 mg) As the material came on I felt that I was being enveloped, and my
attention had to be directed to it. I became quite fearful, and my face felt cold and
ashen. I felt that I wanted to go back, but I knew there was no turning back. Then
the fear started to leave me, and I could try taking little baby steps, like taking first
steps after being reborn. The woodpile is so beautiful, about all the joy and beauty
that I can stand. I am afraid to turn around and face the mountains, for fear they will
overpower me. But I did look, and I am astounded. Everyone must get to experience
a profound state like this. I feel totally peaceful. I have lived all my life to get here,
and I feel I have come home. I am complete.
(with 100 mg of the "R" isomer) There were the slightest of effects noted at about an
hour (a couple of paresthetic twinges) and then nothing at all.
(with 160 mg of the "R" isomer) A disturbance of baseline at about forty minutes and
this lasts for about another hour. Everything is clear by the third hour.
(with 200 mg of the "R" isomer) A progression from an alert at thirty minutes to a
soft and light intoxication that did not persist. This was a modest +, and I was at
baseline in another hour.
(with 60 mg of the "S" isomer) The effects began developing in a smooth, friendly
way at about a half-hour. My handwriting is OK but I am writing faster than usual. At
the one hour point, I am quite certain that I could not drive, time is slowing down a
bit, but I am mentally very active. My pupils are considerably dilated. The dropping is
evident at two hours, and complete by the third hour. All afternoon I am peaceful
and relaxed, but clear and alert, with no trace of physical residue at all. A very
successful ++.
(with 100 mg of the "S" isomer) I feel the onset is slower than with the racemate.
Physically, I am excited, and my pulse and blood pressure are quite elevated. This
does not have the 'fire' of the racemate, nor the rush of the development in getting
to the plateau.
(with 120 mg of the "S" isomer) A rapid development, and both writing and typing
are impossible before the end of the first hour. Lying down with eyes closed
eliminates all effects; the visual process is needed for any awareness of the drug's
effects. Some teeth clenching, but no nystagmus. Excellent sleep in the evening.
With MDMA, the usual assignments of activity to optical isomers is reversed from all
of the known psychedelic drugs. The more potent isomer is the "S" isomer, which is
the more potent form of amphetamine and methamphetamine. This was one of the
first clear distinctions that was apparent between MDMA and the structurally related
psychedelics (where the "R" isomers are the more active). Tolerance studies also
support differences in mechanisms of action. In one study, MDMA was consumed at
9:00 AM each day for almost a week (120 milligrams the first day and 160 milligrams
each subsequent day) and by the fifth day there were no effects from the drug
except for some mydriasis. And even this appeared to be lost on the sixth day. At
this point of total tolerance, there was consumed (on day #7, at 9:00 AM) 120
milligrams of MDA and the response to it was substantially normal with proper
chronology, teeth clench, and at most only a slight decrease in mental change. A
complete holiday from any drug for another 6 days led to the reversal of this
tolerance, in that 120 milligrams of MDMA had substantially the full expected effects.
The fact that MDMA and MDA are not cross-tolerant strengthens the argument that
they act in different ways, and at different sites in the brain.
A wide popularization of the social use of MDMA occurred in 1984-1985 and, with the
reported observation of serotonin nerve changes in animal models resulting from the
administration of the structurally similar drug MDA, an administrative move was
launched to place it under legal control. The placement of MDMA into the most
restrictive category of the Federal Controlled Substances Act has effectively removed
it from the area of clinical experimentation and human research. The medical
potential of this material will probably have to be developed through studies
overseas.
The three carbon sticking out job gives rise to MDA and to MDMA and to many
homologues that are interesting materials discussed at length in these Book II
comments. This is the usual item of commerce, available from both domestic and
foreign suppliers. But the four-carbon sticking out job will produce totally weird stuff
without any apparent relationship to psychedelics, psychoactives or psychotropics
whatsoever. I know of one chemical supply house which supplied the weird
compound, and they never did acknowledge their unusual use of the term piperonyl.
There is a simple difference of properties which might be of value. The three carbon
(correct) ketone is an oil with a sassafras smell that is always yellow colored. The
four carbon (incorrect) ketone has a weak terpene smell and is white and crystalline.
There should be no difficulties in distinguishing these two compounds. But
unprincipled charlatans can always add mineral oil and butter yellow to otherwise
white solids to make them into yellow oils. Caveat emptor.
HOME
MDMA Safety
PiKHAL on HYPEREAL
Alexander Shulgin Interview