JIMMY CORNELL

WORLD CRUISING
ROUTES ·
Second Edition

~"
JS?.!h
ADLARD COLES NAUTICAL
London
 For Juan Francisco Martin and all those who are
living their dreams on the oceans of the world.

Waypoint disk
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containing all of the waypoints and coordinates included
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Second edition 1995

Published by Adlard Coles Nautical
an imprint of A & C Black (Publishers) Ltd
35 Bedford Row, London WC1R 4JH

Copyright© Jimmy Cornell 1987, 1990, 1995

First edition published by Adlard Coles 1987

Reprinted with amendments 1988
Reprinted 1989
Revised and expanded edition 1990
Reprinted 1992
Second edition published by Adlard Coles Nautical 1995

ISBN 0-7136-4070-7
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may
be reproduced in any form or by any means - graphic,
electronic or mechanical, including photocopying,
recording, taping or information storage and retrieval
systems - without the prior permission in writing of
the publishers.

A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from

the British Library.

Sketch maps by Maggie Nelson

Typeset in 9 on 11pt Linotron Palatino by Falcon Graphic Arts, Wallington, Surrey

Printed and bound in the United States of America
Contents
Acknowledgements viii
Preface to Second Edition ix
Explanatory Note x
Introduction 2
1 Route planning 4
2 Principal world cruising routes 8
3 Winds and currents of the world 15
ATLANTIC OCEAN
~ Winds and currents of the North Atlantic 33
5 Routes in the North Atlantic 37
ANlO Routes from North Europe 38
AN20 Routes from Portugal 48
AN30 Routes from Gibraltar 54
AN40 Routes from Madeira 64
ANSO Routes from the Canary Islands 70
AN60 Routes from the Cape Verde Islands and West Africa 80
AN70 Routes from the Lesser Antilles 85
ANSO Routes from the Virgin Islands 96
AN90 Caribbean routes from Panama 106
ANlOO Routes in the Caribbean Sea 117
ANllO Routes from the Bahamas and Florida 124
AN120 Routes from Bermuda 133
AN130 Routes from the Azores 141
AN140 Atlantic routes from North America 150
6 Transequatorial routes in the Atlantic 162
ATlO Southbound routes 163
AT20 Northbound routes 171
7 Winds and currents of the South Atlantic 180
8 Routes in the South Atlantic 182
ASlO Routes from South Africa 182
AS20 Routes from South America 187
PACIFIC OCEAN
9 Winds and currents of the North Pacific 195
10 Routes in the North Pacific 200
PNlO Routes from the West Coast of North America 200
PN20 Pacific routes from Central America and Mexico 207
PN30 Routes from Hawaii 216
CONTENTS

Routes in the Far East 225

Pacific routes from Singapore
PN40 225
Routes from the Philippines
PNSO 231
Routes from Hong Kong
PN60 236
Routes'from Japan
PN70 242
Routes from Micronesia
PNSO 249
11 Transequatorial routes in the Pacific 255·
PTlO Transequatorial routes i"!,.the Eastern Pacific 255
PT20 Transequatorial routes in the Central Pacific 265
PT30 Transequatorial routes in the Western Pacific 271
12 Winds and currents of the South Pacific 278·~ ·

13 Routes in the South Pacific 283

PSlO Routes in the Eastern South Pacific 285
PS20 Routes in Eastern Polynesia 292
PS30 Routes in Central Polynesia •298
PS40 Routes in Western Polynesia 308
PSSO Routes in the Central Pacific 317
PS60 Routes from New Zealand 325
PS70 Routes from Southern Melanesia 336
PSSO Routes from Northern Melanesia 344
PS90 Routes from New Sou't h Wales 349
PSlOO Routes from Queensland 354

INDIAN OCEAN
14 Winds and currents of the North Indian Ocean 361
15 Routes in the North Indian Ocean 364
INlO Routes from Southeast Asia 365
IN20 Routes from Sri Lanka 371
IN30 Routes in the Arabian Sea 376
16 Transequatorial routes in the Indian Ocean 381
ITlO Northbound routes 381
IT20 Southbound routes 391
17 Winds and currents of the South Indian Ocean 395
18 Routes in the South Indian Ocean 398
ISlO Routes from Australia 399
IS20 Routes from Indonesia 406
IS30 Routes in the Central Indian Ocean 408
IS40 Routes in the Western Indian Ocean 413
ISSO Routes from the Mascarene Islands 419
IS60 Routes from Africa 424

RED SEA
19 Winds and currents in the Red Sea 429
20 }\outes in the Red Sea 431

vi
 CONTENTS

RN Nor~hbound routes 432

RS Southbound routes 437
MEDITERRANEAN SEA
21 Winds and currents in the Mediterranean Sea · 442
22 Routes in the Mediterranean Sea 445
M10 Mediterranean routes from Gibraltar 448
M20 Routes from the Balearic Islands 453
M30 Routes from Mediterranean France 456
M40 Routes from Sicily 460
MSO ltoutes from Malta 466
M60 Routes from Greece 471
M70 Routes from Port Said 476
M80 Routes from Cyprus 481
~90 Routes from Israel 486
23 Panama· ahd Suez Canals 489
Bibliography 495
Cruising Guides 497
Index of routes 499

vii
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
n writing this book I have drawn on the expe- valuable tips on passages between California and
Ithose
rience of many of my friends, particularly
who have sailed on routes which I have not.
Panama.
I am most grateful to Chris Bonnet of the Ocean
Norma and Chester Lemon, who circumnavigat- Sailing Academy, Durban, for the wealth of infor-
ed both the Pacific and Indian Oceans on mation he supplied concerning sailing conditions
Honey mead, and Illa and Herbert Gieseking of Lou in South Africa waters.
V, now on their second world voyage after cir- I would also like to thank the following for their
cumnavigating on Lou IV, have written many infor- help in various ways: the librarians at the National
mative letters about the routes they have sailed. Maritime Museum, Greenwich; National Bureau
A similar specia l mention must also go to Muriel of Standards, US Department of Commerce; the
and Erick Bouteleux for information on routes cov- US Defense Mapping Agency; the Minories staff
ered during their circumnavigation on Cnlao. Other of Kelvin Hughes Ltd, Admiralty agents for
circumnavigators whom I wish to thank for their charts and nautical publications; the Cruising Asso-
contribution are: Liz and Bruce MacDonald of ciation; and the Seven Seas Cruising Association.
Horizon; Marg and Bob Miller of Galatea IV; Julie On both sides of the Atlantic I have been very for-
and Doncho Papazov of Tivia; Waltraud and Robert tunate in being able to resort for valuable advice on
Bittner, formerly of Vamos, now sailing on many matters to two friends whose professional life
Lorebella; Kjell and Marit Heiberg on Makiki III; is dedicated to nautical publications: Milt Baker of
Phil and Doris Tworoger on folly II Rogd and, more Bluewater Books & Charts, in Fort Lauderdale, and
recently, on Jolly II Roger II. Julian van Hasselt of Kelvin Hughes, in London.
My thanks also to other long distance voyagers Grateful thanks are also d ue to Janet Murphy,
who have supplied information on specific areas my editor at Adlard Coles Nautical, for never fail-
or topics: Sandra and Paul Ewing of Maamari; ing to deal promptly and imaginatively with the
Gunter Gross of Hligar the Horrible; Peter Noble of many queries raised by a workaholic author.
Artemis; Kim Prowd of Tarrawarra; Margaret and This book, like others of my often too ambitious
Charles Pickering of Keegenoo; Pierre Ribes of projects, could not have been accomplished with-
Sp/1i11x; Nina and Juan Ribas of Abuelo III; Frances out Gwenda's wholehearted support and dedi-
and Bill Stocks of Kleena Kleene II; Saskia and John cation. As always, my most grateful thanks must
Whitehead of Cornelia; Captain John Rains for his go to my lifelong friend and partner.

viii
 PREFACE TO THE
SECOND EDITION
ince this book was first published in 1987 I have has its own sketch map, so all sketch maps have
S received many positive comments and also
some very valuable suggestions from sailors
been redrawn and now show not just the route
itself but also the main distances.
using it. Although in recent years I have not been Sailing routes depend primarily on weather,
able to sail as much as I would have liked, main- which changes little over the years. However, pos-
ly because of my involvement with the various sail- sibly as a result of the profound changes that have
ing events which I organise, it is this very. occurred in the ecological balance of the world
involvement with all those hundreds of active environment, there have been several freak
sailors which has provided a rich and constant weather conditions in recent years. Their most wor-
source of information on new cruising areas, rying aspect is that they are rarely predicted, occur
unusual weather conditions, or less frequented sail- in the wrong season and often in,places where they
ing routes. I have also benefitted from the first hand have not been known before. Violent storms have
experience gained during the first EUROPA been recorded recently at times and in places where
Round the World Rally, some of which I sailed in they had not occurred before. Similarly, the vio-
my own La Aventura. All this information, gained lence of some tropical storms exceeds almost any-
both directly and indirectly, has been incorporat- thing that has been experienced before. The
ed in this revised and expanded edition. depletion of the ozone layer and the gradual warm-
By far the most important change that has ing up of the oceans will undoubtedly affect weath-
occurred since this book was first published is the er throughout the world and will increase the risk
almost total dependence on satellite navigation in of tropical storms. The unimaginable force of mega-
offshore sailing. Therefore all routes have been hurricanes Hugo and Andrew should be a warn-
thoroughly revised in light of the ascendancy of ing of worse things to come. All we can do is heed
satellite navigation. To simplify the planning of those warnings, make sure that the seaworthiness
individual routes essential waypoints are listed. of our boats is never in doubt and, whenever pos-
Several new routes have also been added as boats sible, limit our cruising to the safe seasons. Also,
venture further afield and new cruising grounds as the sailing community depends so much on the
are being discovered. Landfall information, as well forces of nature, we should be the first in protecting
as· main ports of entry are also included to assist the environment and not contribute to its callous
the planning of each passage from the beginning destruction.
to its successful end. In many places routes have
been regrouped by bringing together all routes Jimmy Cornell,
originating from the same country or group of Aups, Provence, 1994
islands. For the sake of clarity, every such group

ix
 EXPLANATORY NOTE
he most important change which has occurred tification number, eg PS64 New Zealand to Fiji.
T in this edition is the inclusion of individual
waypoints for every route. The main aim of these
The same system of numbering carries on into the
numbering of individual waypoints, so that the
waypoints is to help with the planning of a par- various waypoints listed for that route PS64 have
ticular route and, as the original aim of this book the following numbers: PS641, PS642, PS643, etc.
was always that of being an aid to route planning, The inclusion of waypoints has made it neces-
it must be stressed that the inclusion of waypoints sa.ry to redesign the table preceding each route. The
must not be regarded as turning this book into a aim of these tables.is to provide at a glance all the
pilot for the world. essential information pertaining to each individ-
In order to organise both routes and waypoints ual route: the best time to sail it, the period of trop-
in a logical manner, the world has been divided ical storms, US or British passage charts or
into three main 'regions: Atlantic (A), Pacific (P), sailing directions that will be needed, and the rel-
and Indian (I). Each of the three oceans has been evant cruising guides.
further divided into its two hemispheres, so that The waypoints themselves are listed in three sep-
sailing routes are grouped in six main regions: arate columns: departure, intermediate, and land-
North Atlantic (NA), South Atlantic (SA), North fall. Also listed are the coordinates of suggested
Pacific (NP), South Pacific (SP), North Indian (NI), ports of destination, usually those which are also
and South Indian (SI). Every route within a region official ports of entry. Departure waypoints are nor-
is identified by those two letters and its own num- mally located well outside the port of departure
ber, thus AN46 Madeira to Gibraltar. Because they and wherever possible clear of land and traffic.
have certain features in common, transequatori- Similarly, landfall waypoints are given as close to
al routes in every ocean have been dealt with sep- land as it is normally safe to go before switching
arately and are identified by the Jetter 'T' over to coastal navigation. Coordinates of the ports
preceded by the letter identifying the ocean in of destination are given in italics eg Whangarei
question, eg PT22 Tahiti to Hawaii. The Red Sea 35 "44'5, 174'20'E. The italicised script draws
and Mediterranean have been included as separate attention to the fact that the particular port can-
regions. Because routes in the Red Sea are directional not be reached directly from the landfall waypoint
in character, they have been subdivided as north- and therefore its coordinates should not be used for
bound (RN) or southbound (RS). As in other parts navigation and simply fed into the automatic pilot!
of the world, Mediterranean routes are dealt with Indeed, it is rarely possible to sail a direct course
as separate groups and are identified by an 'M'. from a given landfall point to the nearest port of
Every one of the six main regions has been sub, destination as, for example, above, where the port
divided into individual groups, the routes includ- of Whangarei is located several miles up a wind-
ed in one of those groups sharing certain common ing river. It is therefore hoped that no one will
features. The numbering of the group reflects its attempt to sail a direct course from PS535 Bream
particular region, thus PS60 groups all routes from (35 .SO'S, 174 "38' E), the landfall waypoint off
New Zealand. Within this particular group there Bream Head in the approaches to Whangarei, right
are eight routes, each having an individual iden- into the port of Whangarei itself.

x
 EXPLANATORY NOTE

Occasionally italicised coordinates are listed as ways of sailing that particular route, either
intermediate waypoints when either a certain because of seasonal differences or other consid-
detour or an intermed_iate stop are suggested. For erations. In all such cases, the alternatives are list-
example, such a stop might be considered at ed separately and are given their own letter eg
Suvorov Atoll by boats on passage from Bora Bora route PS14A, route PS14B, etc. Waypoints are list-
to Pago Pago. Similarly, on a route where indi- ed for each alternative route.
vidual waypoints cannot be · given because of A new feature of this edition is the inclusion of
expected weather conditions, such as on route PS44 essential landfall information, which was not given
Samoa to Society Islands, the coordinates of the in the previous edition. The official ports of entry
ports of departure and destination are in italicised are mentioned at the end of all major routes, and
script to draw attention to the fact that they are suggestions are made as to which ports are easi-
only given for information and that a route can- er to reach or more convenient to use for clearance
not be sailed between them. purposes. Also indicated are the ports where the
Just as the number of a route is related to the authorities need to be contacted in advance by
relevant ocean and hemisphere, so the number of radio as well as the recommended procedure on
individual lNl!YP.oints is related to the number of arrival.
that particular route. Waypoints which are near Each group of routes is accompanied by a dia-
land ' also have a name eg PS535 Bream. gram showing a sketch map of that particular
Intermediate waypoints, especially those which are region of the world and also the routes crossing
in mid-ocean, are only identified by their number. it. Every route is identified by its individual num-
Such intermediate waypoints are usually given as ber and also lists relevant distances. Distances
a guideline, as in the case of those listed for route between the port of departure and that of desti-
PS26 Tahiti to Cape Horn, where the actual route nation, are also shown in the table accompanying
sailed will depend primarily on existing weather each route.
conditions. In such situations it is made clear in
the text that intermediate waypoints are only hypo-
thetical.
Author's Note
In certain areas the same waypoint is used for The sketch maps accompanying the text are sim-
several routes, but for the sake of clarity the way- ple diagrams to show approximate positions of
points are always·renumbered to relate to the indi- routes only. Since the coordinates of waypoints and
vidual route, although its name will remain the any other coordinates listed in this book are only
same. Thus, a much used waypoint off Cape for planning purposes and must not be used for
Finisterre will appear as AN161 Finisterre on route navigation, sailors using this book are strongly
AN16 Northern Europe to the Mediterranean, and advised always to consult the relevant charts and
as AN171 Finisterre on route AN17 Northern sailing directions for the areas they are sailing
Europe to Madeira. Occasionally, the same name through or are planning to cruise. They should also
has had to be used for different waypoints, in endeavour to obtain the latest corrections to their
which case they have been identified by cardinal charts and sailing directions. One must also be
points, thus Vincent N, Vincent SW or Vincent S. aware that there are serious discrepancies
On many routes there is a choice of destinations, between the position of certain reefs, rocks or even
just as on other routes there is a choice of ports of entire islands, as depicted on some charts, and their
departure. For instance, boats sailing from actual coordinates as calculated by GPS.
Gibraltar to the Azores can clear in at either Ponta While every effort has been made to ensure the
Delgada or Horta. Similarly, boats bound from accuracy of the data included in this volume, nei-
Tonga for the Fijian capital Suva could take their ther the publishers nor the author can assume any
departure from either Tongatapu or Vava'u. On responsibility for possible errors made in these
other routes there are two or even three different pages.

xi
 INTRODUCTION
s a young man growing up in Romania, caged viding essential information on winds, currents,
A in by an iron curtain which separated me from
the rest of the world, planning imaginary journeys
regional and seasonal weather, as well as details
of nearly 500 cruising routes. With the help of the
was the only way I was allowed to travel. I relieved information contained in this book, I hope to make
my frustrations by making dream voyages to exot- it much easier for anyone who intends to under-
ic places, tracing my finger along the routes I would take an ocean voyage to do all forward planning
take on an old atlas of the world. Route planning from the comfort of their home. Once the voyage
fascinated me then and continued to do so, even has started the book will continue to be useful in
after I obtained my freedom and the world lay suggesting alternatives or detours from the main
before me. Routes across Europe became miracu- itinerary.
lously transformed into the reality of railroads and World Cruising Routes is a guide to cruising routes
motorways, as later on pencil marks on charts were not a comprehensive pilot for the entire world, and ·
to become sailing tracks across .the oceans. its users are urged to refer to the relevan t sailing
As a voyage around the world passed from being directions, pilot charts, and regional publications
a dream into a possibility, a finger tracing a line before undertaking a particular passage. Because
on a chart was no longer sufficient and I started of the vast area included in the book, only the basic
planning my voyage in earnest. Trying to trans- data needed for planning an extensive cruise could
late dreams into concrete plans was not so easy and be included, as it would have been physically
although the shelves were full of books on almost impossible to include in one single volume
every aspect of cruising under sail, I found very detailed information about every route. I had to
little on route planning aimed specifically at the limit myself to giving only general directions on
small boat voyager. This gap, although annoying, how to get from one destination to the next. These
was not enough to deter me from setting off, as directions .mention safe and dangerous seasons,
so many others had also done. During a six year prevailing winds, the kind of weather to be expect-
circumnavigation on Aventura with my wife ed, as well as other factors that ought to be known
Gwenda and our children Doina and Ivan, we vis- by a small boat voyager. Whenever a particular
ited some seventy countries in five continents and aspect was debatable or variable, such as the begin-
covered 60,000 miles, including some of the ning or end of a hurricane season, the strength of
remotest areas of the world. During that long voy- a particular current, or the frequency of gales in
age, I retained my interest in routeing and collected a specific area, I have preferred to err on the side
information as I went along. Eventually that mat- of caution. For the same reason, I have concentrated
erial was to form the basis of this book. The lessons on giving details for what is considered to be the
learnt during my first circumnavigation were pu t safe cruising season and less on weather conditions
to good use when my present yacht La Aventura during unfavourable seasons. I believe that cruis-
joined 35 other yachts taking part in the first round ing should be a pleasurable activity, and because
the world rally. many unpleasant conditions can be avoided with
This book attempts to fill a gap, which existed a little planning this aspect is emphasised
when I set off on my first circumnavigation, by pro- throughout the book. Therefore the book concen-

2
 INTRODUCTION

trates· more on the tropical regions of the world, ing charts suggested at the beginning of each route.
where most sailors intend to cruise or dream of For reasons of.space, but also because certain
cruising one day, and Jess on how to prepare for well sailed areas of the world are already more than
a gale swept mid-winter crossing of the North adequately covered by other publications, I have
Atlantic. kept to a minimum the information on cruising
The primary aim of this book is to enable the routes within North America, Northern Europe,
reader to plan a voyage from beginning to end and and the Mediterranean. The few routes mentioned
the information needed to do this is fourfold: gen- for those areas are only meant for general guid-
eral offshore weather conditions, descriptions of ance for outsiders who plan to cruise in those coun-
actual routes, dangers to be avoided, and some tries and not as a cruising guide once there. In a
brief landfall information including recommend- similar way, the book gives routes on how to get
ed ports of entry. Areas which are seldom visited to a certain area, for example the Bahamas, but it
by sailing boats have either been omitted or is not a guide to cruising between islands within
described briefly. The information concerning that area.
weather is only intended as a rough guide to what I hope to be forgiven if I have missed or over-
weather condjtions can be expected in certain areas looked some routes. Several times I have decid-
by those planning to sail there. ed to omit a little frequented route when I knew,
Every route mentions the best time for a passage for instance, that there is rarely more than ' one
to be made along that route and the season when cruising boat per year sailing from Tuvalu to the
tropical storms affect that particular region. The Solomon Islands direct. In such cases I considered
extent of the hurricane season is given for the entire that there was sufficient information which could
route, even if the point of departure or that of be taken from adjacent routes, where conditions
arrival are not themselves subject to tropical are similar.
storms, but when the threat of hurricanes does exist There are probably some people who expect a
in some area along that route. Also given are the book of this kind to provide precise solutions for
great circle distances between principal ports, but all their needs. Obviously this would be impos-
as these distances are only meant for guidance, they sible, especially when dealing with something as
are approximate, especially when the suggested inconsistent as winds and weather. Every so often
route is not direct. Also indicated at the beginning freak weather occurs which can affect even the nor-
of each route are the charts and sailing directions mally dependable routes. There is an infinite vari-
(pilots) relevant to that part of the world. ety of circumstances which renders it impossible
Although the sailing directions deal mainly with to lay down any fixed rule which can be followed
pilotage in coastal areas, and their use on ocean to advantage at all times. Therefore, in those cases
passages is limited, it is advisable to have on board in which a certain course is pointed out to be the
pilots of areas adjacent to those that will be sailed best to be pursued, but this proves impossible to
through in case an emergency landfall has to be accomplish, it is always better to follow one's
made in an area for which charts are not carried. instincts, even if it results in a detour or delay.
Both American and British charts and publications As well as drawing on a large variety of
are indicated because certain parts of the world sources, much of the material included in the book
are covered better by one or the other hydrographic was provided from my own voyaging. I have also
office. As a general rule, British charts are better received enormous help from my many sailing
for areas which were once part of the former British friends, particularly those who have ventured
Empire, whereas American charts tend to be more where I have not. In those areas, the faculty learnt
accurate in areas of prime US interest, such as the in my youth of transposing myself to unknown
North Pacific. Although chart and pilot numbers places has served me in good stead. I am still trac-
were correct at the time of going to press, some ing my finger along routes on charts, but this time
numbers are changed occasionally and this with a little help from my friends.
should be borne in mind especially when order-

3
 1
ROUTE I

PLANNING
ome voyages start as a dream , but end as a of the world considered to be dangerous because
S nightmare, usually due to lack of plannin g and
inadequate preparation. Almost any well found
of piracy, drug trafficking, or high criminality.
Because of their human nature.such dangers are
modern sailing boa t is able to travel from point more difficult to predict than na tural phenome-
A to point B under most conditions, provided the na, althou gh the areas to be avoided are usually
length of time it takes does not ma tter. Whether known and the sailing grapevine sounds warnings
this is worth doing or not is highly debatable. about a reas that should be given a wide berth, be
Cap tain Bligh nearly had a mutiny on his hands it some of the islands between Indonesia a nd the
when he stubbornly tried to round Cape Horn from Philippines, certain countries in East or West
east to west in the m iddle of winter. He finally Africa, or parts of the Red Sea. This is where a
gave up and turned around only to find an even marine SSB radio or an amateur radio can be very
grea ter challenge in the Tahitian vahines. useful since it allows one to obtain information
Evidently, even the best forward planning could from other sailors cruising in areas which one
not have foreseen that kind of danger. intends to visit in the immediate future.
Fortunately the factors that have to be taken into Yet in spite of all the information available and
account when planning an extended voyage are the fact that so m uch more is known abou t the
more predictable, and most of the dangers tha t can weather systems of the world, small boats still
threaten a cruise are well known. The wise nav- come to grief every year often because their skip-
igator planning an offshore voyage will try to take pers ignore all warnings and decide to spend the
full advantage of the favourable winds and cur- hurricane season in an area know n to be hit by
rents and avoid encountering any extreme weath- these violent storms. Less traumatic, but never-
er. An offshore cruising boat should be well theless uncomfortable, is the realisation made each
enough constructed so as to be able to withstand year by owners of boats from the west coast of
the average gale, and fortunately along the routes Amer ica, who find themselves in some South
described in this volume the frequency of violent Pacific island at the end of a pleasant downwind
storms is extremely low during the accepted 'safe' cruise without the slightest idea of how to get back
cruising season. Th e main danger to be aware of home. Eventually some choose the logical solu-
are tropical rev olving storms, whether these are tion and carry on westwards, adding thousands
called hurrkanes, cyclones, typhoons or of miles to a cruise, which has turned into an
willy-willies, but since these affect known areas unplanned circumnavigation. A certain degree of
during certain times of the year, they can be avoid- ..advance planning could have made life easier. Such
ed . This is wh ere advance route planning has a lack of forward planning is the main reason wh y
major role to play, as it is perfectly possible to plan - there a re always boats for sale in Caribbean ports,
a voyage to all the popular cruising areas with vir- their disenchanted European owners not relishing
tually no risk of en countering a hurrican e, the return voyage across the Atlantic.
cyclone, or typhoon. On the other hand, th ere are obviously
An oth er ·element that must be taken into instances where either by force or by choice one
account when plC1nning a voyage are the few areas has to fight the elements to reach a· cer tain point.

4
 ROUTE PLANNING

After 'transiting the Panama Canal in Aventura we Sayling -Horizontall, Paradoxall and Sayling upon
decided to visit Peru and the west coast of South a Great Circle' .
America, before starting our cruise among the It was about the same time that the Dutch math-
islands of the South Pacific. As we were very deter- ematician Gerhard Mercator published a univer-
mined to sail to Peru, the only alternative to a long sal map on a projection that now bears his name.
beat against contrary winds and the Humboldt cur- A course represented by a straight line on a
rent would have been an even longer detour Mercator chart is called a rhumb line and for short
around Cape Horn or through the Magellan voyages sailing along such a line between the port
Straits. Our decision to go against the weather was of departure and that of arrival makes a minimal
only taken because of our wish to visit a particu- difference. Jn order to find the shorter route for
lar place. When planning a longer voyage, how- a longer passage, the same straight line will have
ever, the most important thing is to make the best to be drawn on a gnomonic chart, which uses a dif-
use of favourable winds and to avoid bad weath- ferent projection with meridians converging at the
er by choosing a suitable course and, above all, by poles and parallels of latitude represented by
being in the right place at the right time. curved lines. Any straight line on a gnomonic chart
When starting to plan a voyage one of the first is part of a great circle and is indeed the shortest
requirements in the planning stages is a gnomonic distance between the two points joined by that line.
chart for the longer offshore passages one intends Because gnomonic charts cannot be used for nav-
to undertake. Although GPS has obviated the need igation, the great circle track drawn on such a chart
for such charts it is wise to have one on board, and has to be transferred to a Mercator chart. This is
to be familiar with their purpose and how to use done by making a note of the latitudes at which
them. A gnomonic chart is necessary because the the great circle route intersects successive merid-
ordinary navigational charts, based on the ians which have been selected at convenient inter-
Mercator projection, cannot be used for planning vals, usually at 5·. These positions are transferred
an offshore passage of more than a few hundred to the corresponding Mercator chart and joined by
miles. On the Mercator charts all meridians are rep- straight lines. This succession of rhumb lines
resented as straight parallel lines that do not con- approximates very closely the actual great circle
verge at the poles, as meridians do in reality. This track for that route.
means that any straight line drawn between two This rather cumbersome method of finding the
points on one of these charts based on the great circle track for any chosen route can be avoid-
Mercator projection is not necessarily the short- ed by solving the problem not graphically but
est distance between those two points, and mathematically. All this is taken care of now by
although a ship that sails such a course will reach GPS, which gives both the great circle course and
its destination, it will not be by the shortest route. distance to the next destination with the added
To be able to sail more efficiently it is necessary advantage of t)lese values being constantly
to establish the great circle route, which is the short- updated. However, GPS only does this when one
est distance between two points on the surface of is already w1derway. Therefore, for planning pur-
the earth. poses one should obtain either a gnomonic chart
The pripciples of great circle sailing have been or a software programme for one' s computer.
known for a long time and it is believed that great The purchase of gnomonic charts is therefore no
navigators such as Columbus and Magellan were longer absolutely necessary for those who intend
already acquainted with•the subject. The advan- to calculate their great circle course by other means,
tages of sailing along a great circle route were first although acquiring the pilot charts for the oceans
mentioned in a work by the Portuguese astrono- that will be crossed is essential. These charts are
mer Pedro Nufiez in 1537. They were .brought to published by the US Department of Defense
the attention of British se~en in the book The Arte Hydrographic Center and can be obtained from
of Navigation translated into English by Richard the usual chart agents. Pilot charts are issued for
Eden in 1561. Other works also referred to the all oceans of the world and give monthly or quar-
applications of great circle sailing, but the term terly averages of wind d irection and strength, cur-
itself appears to have been coined by John Davis rents, percentages of calms and gales, limits of ice,
in a book published in 1594 under the title of tropical storm tracks, and other kinds of informa-
Seaman's Secrets, which described 'three Kinds of tion. The data contained in these charts is based

5
ROUTE PLANNING

on observations made by ships that have passed must be prepared to face up to one's own limita-
through those areas and although they give an tions. All too often people are ashamed to admit
accurate overall picture of weather conditions for to others, and even to themselves, that they are
a certain time of year, they are only averages and afraid of a certain passage. A good exanple is the
must be regarded as such. rounding of the Cape of Good Hope, rrfore aptly
With the help of the relevant pilot charts for the called the Cape of Storms, which is indeed a very
area to be sailed and the directions contained in dangerous area, especially if one is yot too confi-
this book, planning a voyage can start in earnest. dent that the boat could take a knool<down or cap-
In order to make it simpler to draw up the gen- size, which is an eventuality that must be faced
eral outline of a longer cruise, some hypothetical by all those who take this route. There is
voyages are described in the next chapter. These absolutely nothing wrong in avoiding such a pas-
examples are only meant to show what can be done sage and this can be done easily by choosing the
in a given amount of time. Both short term and long Red Sea route instead. However, this decision must
term planning are finally the responsibility of the be made well in advance, ideally before going
skipper who knows best what are the capabilities through the Torres Strait and not on the eve of
and limitations of his or her crew and boat. departure from Mauritius.
The importance of long term or forward plan- Reliance on auxiliary engines has become an
ning can be seen from the following example. accepted part of modern cruising and this is the
Presuming that a cruise of a few months is planned reason why on certain routes skippers are
in the Lesser Antilles, the order in which the islands advised to have a good reserve of fuel as this can
are visited should be determined by subsequent make a great difference to the length of the pas-
plans. Most people leave from the Canaries con- sage. The convenience of being able to motor
cerned only with crossing the Atlantic by the fastest through the doldrums and not be becalmed for
and most convenient route, their landfall in the days or weeks is one such instance, as is the abil-
Caribbean being decided by many factors, but not ity to power against a strong outflowing current
always by long term considerations. If one is plan- to enter a lagoon, which otherwise could not be
ning to sail to Europe or the USA at the end of the entered. Filling up one's fuel tanks before a wind-
cruising season in the Caribbean, the logical way less passage is part of good forward planning as
to cruise through the islands is from south to north, is choosing a port with good provisioning, refu-
so that the same ground will not be covered twice. elling and repair facilities for the start of long off-
On the other hand, if the voyage will continu e in shore passages.
the Pacific and a transit of the Panama Canal is An important element of advance planning· is
planned, it makes more sense to end the transat- . to be aware of official requirements in the coun-
!antic crossing in one of the islands further north, tries to be visited and to know where one may need
such as Antigua or Guadeloupe, and then sail visas, vaccinations, or cruising permits. Much of
down the chain of islands towards Grenada or this practical information is contained in the com-
Venezuela. Such a route would ensure better winds p anion volume to this book, World Cruising
when sailing among the Lesser Antilles and also Handbook. In spite of sailing boats being able to visit
a shortef passage to Panama when the time arrives. more countries than in the past, in many places
The P'}5sage across the Caribbean Sea can be very formalities have not been simplified. The captain
boisterous at the end of winter and a start from must be aware of specific requirements and the
one of the ABC Islands of{ Venezuela (Aruba, location of the official ports of entry; ignorance of
Bonaire, or Cura~ao) can make that leg shorter and local regulations will not be accepted as an
more pleasant. An additional advantage of this excuse. In Australia, for example, any foreign
route is the fact that the southernmost part of the national, except New Zealanders, arriving with-
Caribbean.is very rarely affected by hurricanes, so out a visa will be heavily fined . So as part of for-
that if the. cruise is delayed for any reason, the boat ·· ward planning, one may have to plan a detour to
will be in a relatively safe place. a country where there is a diplomatic mission issu-
Equally important when forward planning is to ing the necessary visa. Choosing the right place,
allow certain subjective factors to influence the ideally close to an international airport, is equal-
choice of routes. An order of priorities has to be ly important when picking up or dropping off crew.
decided and this is u sually the point at which one Just as important for long term cruisers is to plan
 ROUTE PLANNING

regular overhauls in places with good repair facil- so as to maximise the chances of find ing it. On
ities. My World Cruising Guide was written very the other hand, if one wishes to avoid a certain dan-
much with that objective in mind. ger, the main thing to avoid is its latitude. As many
These are some of the factors that can influence ocean passages along the popular cruising routes
planning, both in the short and long term. are from east to west, this means that it should not
However, what is needed at all times, and espe- be too difficult to choose a safe latitude and stay
cially once a cruise has started, is a good dose of on it when approaching a known danger.
commonsense, which will help solve most prob- The influence that such commonsense can have
lems. Nowhere is this more true than in the realm on good seamanship is illustrated by examples in
of navigation, particularly in view of the current my previous survey books, and one conclusion I
reliance on GPS navigation. For example, if one drew after talking to a great number of experienced
is not too sure about the position of a certain reef, sailors was that one of the most important qual-
island, or any other danger, it is generally safer ities to have while sailing is patience. A little
to assume that the latitude stated is more accurate humility and respect for the powers of nature are
than the longitude. The coordinates of most of undoubtedly just as important and this is prob-
these dang~rs were fixed by navigators before the ably the explanation why superstitious sailors pre-
advent of precise modern instruments, and many fer to say that they are 'bound for' their
charts of remote areas have yet to be corrected. destination. Many things can happen to stop a &hip
This is why it is still perfectly valid to use the prac- from reaching its desired destination and careful
tice of the masters of the sailing ships, who always planning has a major part to play in bringing a ship
tried to 'run down' the latitude of a given place, safely home.

7
 2
PRINCIPAL WORLD ;

CRUISING ROUTES
P lanning an offshore voyage is not a simple !llat-
ter because many factors have to be taken into
consideration. The most important factor to be con-
is probably twp years. By precise timing and care-
ful choice of favourable seasons, the two
EUROPA Round the World Rallies, in 1991-2 and
sidered is the safety of the vessel and its crew, there- 1994-5, accomplished a circumnavigation in 16
fore it is crucial to ensure that the route will avoid months. However, these are competitive events and
areas of known dangers and also that as much as the sailors taking part in them were prepared to
possible of the sailing will be done during move at a relatively fast pace. The two year exam-
favourable seasons. A large proportion of the cruis- ple is still valid for anyone ·planning to cruise alone.
ing routes described in this book are in the trop- If the point of departure is Scandinavia, Britain,
ics, which is where world voyagers spend much or Northern Europe, the recommended time for
of their time. However, many tropical areas are leaving would be early summer when optimum
only safe for six or seven months of the year, the conditions can be expected in the North Sea,
remaining months being liable to tropical storms. English Channel, and across the Bay of Biscay.
In the following pages I shall 'try to give some Departures from Mediterranean ports and
examples of typical world cruises that can be done Gibraltar can be left as late as October. This is also
with maximum safety. The various circumnavi- the time when boats should be on their way to the
gations describecj are al) westabout to take max- Canaries, whether sailing direct or via Madeira.
imum advantage of the prevailing wind systems The earliest time for an Atlantic crossing along
and to sail as much as possible under trade wind the NE trade w ind route is after the middle of
conditions. Because much of the time will be spent November, as such a depar ture ensures that
in the tropics, the proposed timing will avoid those landfall is made in one of the Caribbean islands
areas during the tropical storm seasons. The major- before Christmas at the beginning of the safe cruis-
ity of small boat voyages around the world follow ing season. However, the chances of finding bet-
the trade w ind routes and the number of cruising ter winc!s are higher later in winter and some of
boats trying 'to accomplish a circumnavigation the fastest passages have been recorded between
against the prevailing winds is so small as not to January and March. Columbus himself left the
merit a separate example. Similarly, the following Canaries in September and had stead y trade winds
examples all pass through the South Pacific, which almost all the way across. That first Atlantic cross-
continues to be the main attraction for virtually ing along the trade wind route was undertaken at
any sailor setting off on a cruise around the world. the height of the hurricane season, when su ch a
Routes A to G on the following pages are shown passage should not even be considered.
on the endpaper map. After one or two months in the Eastern
Caribbean, the Panama Canal should be transit-
Voyage A: Two year ed in February or early March. This avoids arriv-
ing in the Marquesas before the end of March when
circumnavigation from Europe the islands of French Polynesia are still subject to
The shortest time in which a cruise around the tropical cyclones. Because of the limited time avail-
w orld can be accomplished in a small sailing boat able, Tahiti should be left· in early June so as to

8
 PRIN CIPAL WORLD CRUISING ROUTES

arrive in Fiji by July. As these are the months when navigation, nor does everyone wish to be away
the SE trades are at their most constant, these long from home for so long, which is probably one of
passages can usually be made at good speeds. the reasons for the EUROPA Round the World
Passages from Fiji onwards should be timed to pass Rally' s ongoing success.
through the Torres Strait before the end of August The only purpose of this hypothetical example
or early in September if taking the Cape of Good is to show how it is possible to plan a two year cir-
Hope route. cumnavigation so as to be always in the right place
The passage across the South Indian Ocean will at the right time. Indeed, the points made above
have to be made in a similar rhythm, with long were put to good use when planning the itiner-
periods at sea and little tiine to spend in the islands ary of the first Round the World Rally, some of
en route. The start of the cyclone season in which 1 sailed in La Aventura. The timing of the
December indicates a departure from Mauritius first event was so successful that the route of the
for the passage to South Africa not later than the second one remained almost unchanged. The
end of October. The next leg to Cape Town is best EUROPA Round the World Rally has now become
made in January or February, when conditions a regular event to be run every three years, the next
around the tip of Africa are considered to be the one being due to start in January 1997.
mGlst favourable.
Those planning to return to the Mediterranean
via the Red Sea have the choice of either calling Voyage B: Two year
at Bali and carrying on to Singapore, or making circumnavigation from the
their way to Sri Lanka via Christmas Island . A east coast of North America
cruising permit is required for those wishing to
pass through Indonesia, which probably dictates For boats leaving on a two year circumnavigation
the choice of route. The advantage of a passage from the east coast of North America and planning
across the North Indian Ocean is that this can be to start their voyage at the beginning of winter, the
done in January or February, which allows longer timing of departure is crucial. If some time is to
time to be spent earlier in the Pacific, negotiating be spent in the Lesser Antilles, an attempt should
the Torres Strait only in September or even early be made to leave by the first week of November
October. The end of the year will see the boat some- sailing directly to the Virgin Islands or one of the
where in SE Asia preparing for a winter crossing islands in the Eastern Caribbean. The schedule is
of the North Indian Ocean, when the NE monsoon more relaxed if the departure is planned for the
normally provides excellent sailing conditions in end of spring or early summer. In this case boats
the first months of the year. The subsequent pas- normally sail to the Eastern Caribbean via
sage through the Red Sea and the transiting of the Bermqda in May or June and then make their way
Suez Canal in March or April will allow the boat south in order to spend the summer in an area with
to complete its circumnaviga tion approximately a low risk of hurricanes, .such as Venezuela,
two years after leaving Europe. Colombia, or Panama.
Those returning via the Cape of Good Hope can For those leaving later in the year and planning
sail to the Azores, either directly or possibly via to sail straight to Panama, there are two alterna-
Brazil, although the latter may add too much time tives: either to go via the Bahamas and the
to the return journey. An arrival in the Azores in Windward Passage or through the Intracoastal
April or May would enable a return to the point Waterway to Florida and thence to Panama. Boats
of departure exactly two years after leaving leaving from Florida can leave later in winter and
home. make their way to Panama eastabout or westabout
However, there are so many temptations on the Cuba, either of which is feasible. Those who leave
way that often such quick voyages end up by in November and take the longer. route via the
stretching into three and even four years. My first Eastern Caribbean arrive at the beginning of win-
circumnavigation on Aventura took all of six years, ter and thus have at least two months to cruise the
so it is rather ironic that I should be promoting an islands of the Lesser Antilles before sailing to
event which attempts to encompass the world in Panama. Whichever route is sailed to Panama, the
less than one quarter of that time. Unfortunately Canal should be transited in February or early
not everyone has that kind of time for a circum- March. This avoids arriving in the Marquesas

9
 PRINCIPAL WORLD CRUISING ROUTllS

before the end of the cyclone season (December to or North America would be similar to th"at
end of March). From Tahiti onwards, the timing described in the previous examples. A little more
is similar to the one described in the previous exam- time can.be spent in the Caribbean, but the Panama
ple. The Society Islands should be left not later than Canal should be transited in March so as to arrive
June so as to arrive in Fiji by July. From Fiji in the Marquesas before the end of April. The fol-
onwards, the passages should be timed to pass lowing three months can be spent in French
through the Torres Strait before the end of August Polynesia, allowing one to be there fpr the unique
or early in September. 14 July celebrations. Leaving the S'ociety Islands
The South Indian Ocean will be crossed in a sim- before the end of July makes it possible to spend
ilar rhythm, with long periods at sea and not much some time in all the island groups en route to Fiji.
time to spend in the islands en route. The start of Because of the approaching cyclone season (late
the cyclone season in December indicates a November to March), a decision must be made
departure from Mauritius for the passage to South whether to spend this in Tonga (Vava'u),
Africa not later than the end of October. The tip American Samoa (Pago Pago), New Zealand, or
of Africa should be weathered in January or nontropical Australia. Although a number of boats
February, when conditions in those stormy hole up in one of the first two places, these anchor~
waters are usually the most favourable. From South ages are in the cyclone area and the vast majori-
Africa boats normally sail to Brazil and thence to ty of those cruising the South Pacific make their
the Lesser Antilles. An arrival in the Eastern way to New Zealand, which is outside the
Caribbean in the spring would enable a return to cyclone belt..A stay in Fiji is not recommended as
the point of departure less than two years after the number of safe anchorages is small and they
leaving home. fill up quickly in an emergency.
A return to America via the North Indian Ocean, The passage from Fiji to New Zealand is nor-
the Red Sea, and Mediterranean will certainly make mally undertaken in November. Most boats
the voyage considerably longer. It is an alterna- spend the entire cyclone season in New Zealand
tive favoured by many North American sailors who and leave for the Torres Strait and Indian Ocean
wish to avoid sailing around the Cape of Good early in April. Such a departure allows them to visit
Hope. Such an alternative has the attraction of see- some of the island groups bordering on the Coral
ing some of SE Asia before the North Indian Ocean Sea before reaching the Indian Ocean. Another
is crossed during the NE monsoon of winter. The alternative is to sail across the Tasman Sea from
Red Sea is transited in late winter and the New Zealand to Australia in February or March
Mediterranean is reached by March. On leaving and then sail up the east coast of Australia towards
the Mediterranean, one can either sail home direct- the Torres Strait. An earlier arrival in the Indian
ly, via the Azores and possibly Bermuda, which Ocean allows more time to be spent en route,
is best done early in the summer, or take the longer whether in Darwin or Indonesia, if a cruising per-
route across the Atlantic via the Canaries, which mit has been obtained beforehand. The rest of the
should not be done before the middle of voyage is the same as that described in Voyages
November. Aand B.

Voyage C: Three year Voyage D: Three year

circumnavigation from Europe or circumnavigation from the west
the east coast of North America coast of North America
The two year circumnavigations described above If a circumnavigation is planned from the west
can be made much more enjoyable if more time coast of North America, either California or the
is available. Although the additional mileage cov- Pacific Northwest including British Columbia, at
ered during a three year long circumnavigation least three years should be allowed. The pr,mary
would only amount to about 4000 miles, the extra destination for almost all of those who undertake
year allows more time to be spent in places en route this voyage is Tahiti, which can be reached either
. and makes the entire voyage more enjoyable. via Hawaii or the Marquesas. A few boats include
The first part of the voyage either from Europe the Galapa gos Islands on their itinerary and

10
 PRINCIPAL WORLD CR UISING RO UTES -

although permission to stop there is not given auto- sage across the North Indian Ocean can be done
matically, few boats are actually turned away and as late as February or even March, which allows
most are allowed to spend a few days there. For a more relaxed pace earlier on. But the main attrac-
those taking the Hawaiian route, time of depar- tion of this alternative route is the chance to spend
ture is less crucial, while a late March or early April some time in the Mediterranean. Arriving there
departure is recommended for those intending to through the Suez Canal in April one has about six
sail direct!y to the Marquesas. summer months to sail to Gibraltar and visit inter-
Those making an early departure and arriving esting places on the way. The passage from
in French Polynesia in April or May will be able Gibraltar to the Canaries can be done in October
to follow a similar schedule as that described in and the subsequent crossing of the Atlantic will
Voyages A and B. Later departures will not reach also take place at a good time. Having arrived in
Tahiti before July or August, which means that one the Eastern Caribbean before Christmas, the voy-
will not have much time left to spend in the trop- age to Panama and beyon_d can be undertaken in
ics before sailing to a safe place for the coming a more leisurely fashion than if one had arrived
cyclone season (December to March). The author- there straight from South Africa. With more time
ities no longer allow boats to remain in French in hand even the difficulty of the return passage
Polynesia durfng the cyclorie season. This certainly along the Pacific coast of Central America can be
applies to those who leave California in late faced with more detachment.
November and sail direct to the Marquesas, as a
number of boats have done in recent years.
Although the islands of French Polynesia are not
Voyage E: A round Pacific voyage
visited by cyclones every year one should not be Probably the greatest disadvantage of the Pacific
lulled into a false sense of security, as over the years Ocean from a cruising point of view is that it does
several boats have been lost in cyclones which have not lend itself to a logical circumnavigation, a fact
struck Eastern Polynesia. One way to avoid recognised as early as the sixteenth century by the
spending the cyclone season in French Polynesia Spanish navigators. Today' s voyagers are faced
is to leave California in November and spend the with almost the same dilemma, but at least the
winter either in Hawaii, Mexico, or Central improved windward going capability of their craft
_America. The voyage to the Marquesas or Tahiti makes the problem somewhat easier.
can then be made the following March, allowing The departure point for the suggested Pacific cir-
one to arrive there at the start of the safe season. cumnavigation can be either the west coast of
The rest of the South Pacific cruise could follow North America, which is covered in Voyage D, or
the schedule described in either example A or B. Panama, which is described in Voyage A. Because
Those who are in a hurry to return home in the the South Pacific and its myriad islands continue
shortest time possible should follow the previously to be the principal attraction of a Pacific cruise, the
suggested timetable across the South Indian return voyage to the west coast of Nor th America
Ocean so as to arrive in Cape Town by Christmas. will be considered from somewhere in the
This would allow them to arrive in the Lesser Southwest Pacific, New Zealand being the most
Antilles by February and in Panama by March or likely place for the start of such a voyage. The most
April. Once through the Panama Canal the choice logical return itinerary is via Tahiti with the help
is between a dash along the coast of Central of westerly winds found below latitude 35 'S. This
America and Mexico, if one can rely on a power- return voyage to Tahiti is best made at the end of
ful engine, or a detour to Hawaii in the hope of the cyclone season, in April or May, before the onset
finding favourable winds for the return voyage. of the southern winter. If a prompt departure is
The timing of one's arrival in Panama is crucial if made from New Zealand, there is sufficient time
one is planning to sail to California along the coast, to reach the west coast of N'orth America via
because Cabo San Lucas should be cleared before Hawaii long before winter also arrives in the north-
the onset of the hurricane season in June. ern hemisphere. Such a return trip to Tahiti allows
Because of this tight scheduling and other con- those who had sailed quickly through these
siderations, many west coast sailors are put off by islands on their outward voyage to see more of
\he South African route and choose the Red Sea French Polynesia the second time around. The
route instead. As described in Voyage A, the pas- other alternative is to sail from New Zealand to

11
PRINCIPAL WORLD CRUISING ROUTES

Hawaii via the Cook Islands by following the same to be spent cruising the coasts of the Iberian penin-
time schedule. sula before heading for the Canary Islands, either
For those who are determined to complete a cir- · direct or via Madeira. The crossing of the Atlantic
cumnavigation of the Pacific, there is always the can be made in November or early Decem,ber along
possibility of continuing a South Pacific cruise to the trade wind route, arriving in the Caribbean
the Far East. This is best accomplished by sailing before the end of the year. The next four months
from the Solomon Islands or Papua New Guinea can be spent cruising the islands °} the Eastern
to Guam and thence to Japan, with a possible Caribbean, preferably from south,to north, so as
detour to the Philippines and Hong Kong. The voy- not to cover the same ground t~ice. The return
age can then be continued via the Aleutian voyage to Europe should start in April or early May
Islands to Alaska, British Columbia, and beyond. and usually· includes a stopover in Bermuda,
Such an itinerary requires careful planning, so as although a few people sail directly to the Azores.
to sail among the islands of the Far East at the most The Azores. provide a convenient springboard in
favourable time, but such a northern sweep can mid-Atlantic for a return passage to reach the home
be accomplished although it will take longer than port in either Northern Europe or the
the return route via Tahiti and Hawaii. Mediterranean a lmost one year after leaving. In
Other itineraries for a return to the west coast fact the Atlantic circle can be accomplished in as
have also been tried out, although far less suc- little as eight months, especially if the point of
cessfully, because of the high proportion of head departure is in Southern Europe. In such -:i case one
winds encountered on the way to Hawaii, par- can leave for the Canaries as late as October, cross
ticularly in the case of voyages starting from the Atlantic in the second half of November, and
Micronesia. Many of these attempts had to be aban- return from the Caribbean the following April.
doned and those who managed to complete them Such timing is followed successfully every year
vowed never to make such an error of judgement by many boats taking part in the ARC, who incor-
again. This is why the importance of properly plan- porate this annual transatlantic event from Gran
ning a return voyage to the west coast cannot be Canaria to St Lucia into their plans.
emphasised strongly enough and the various alter- A major attraction of such an Atlantic circle for
natives outlined in these examples should be con- those who cannot take off all the necessary time
sidered carefully, preferably before leaving home. in one block is the fact that the voyage can be bro-
ken up into several stages. The first stage is to sail
the boat to a southern port at the beginning of sum-
Voyage F: A round Atlantic voyage mer. The boat can be left in a marina while the crew
returns home by air. This stage can be extended
from Europe to go as far as the Canaries, which ideally should
Compared to the Pacific Ocean, a circumnaviga- be reached by August or early September. There
tion of the North Atlantic is much easier to accom- are many excellent marinas in the Canaries where
plish and it is in fact a voyage under taken every a boat can be left in safety and there are also fre-
year by a large number of European sailors, who quent flights to all parts of Europe. If the boat is
have time for only a one year offshore cruise or who left for a while in Southern Europe, perhaps in
complete the circle in various stages over several Gibraltar or Vilamoura, the passage to the
years returning home in between. Christopher Canaries should not be left too late as every year
Columbus was the first sailor to accomplish such boats miss the start of the ARC because of bad
a n Atlantic circumnavigation and the following weather encountered on the way to the Canaries
itinerary is largely based on his own voyage of in late October or early November. Indeed there
1492- 3. The only significant change is the timing, is no good reason to leave this section of the voy-
as on his first transatlantic voyage Columbus sailed age to so late in the season.
west durin g the hurricane season of summer and Once the boat has reached the Caribbean in time
returned home too early in winter. for the Christmas holidays, those w ho have to
A late sprfog or summer start is recommended return home temporarily can do so by leaving the
for those leaving from Northern or Western boat in a safe marina, such as Rodney Bay in St
Europe, so as to cross the Bay of Biscay before the Lucia, the finishing point of the ARC. There are
middle C)f A u gust. Such timing a llows some time frequent flights to Europe from St Lucia,

12
 PRINCIPAL WORLD CRUISI NG ROUTES

Martinique, Guadaloupe, Antigua, and Barbados, er year to the voyage, which from Brazil continues
all of which are convenient places for crew along the coast of.South America to the Caribbean
changes. At the completion of the Caribbean cruise, where it rejoins one of the routes mentioned above.
the return passage to Europe must be contem-
plated. This can be done nonstop to the Azores or
via Bermuda. If necessary, the trip can be broken
Rallies and races
in the Azores where the boat can be left in one of Just as the wise navigator plans on being in the
two excellent marinas, either in Horta or Ponta right place at the right time, so the organisers of
Delgada, both of which have direct flights to various sailing events are timing their events to
Lisbon. From the Azores, the sail back home can take place at a time when they can expect to attract
be done a t any time during the summer. the maximum number of cruising boats. The per-
fect example is the highly successful Antigua
Voyage G: A round Atlantic Sailing Week, which starts on the last weekend in
April at the end of the sailing season in the
voyage from North America Caribbean. For nearly three d ecad es hundreds of
A similar circumnavigation of the North Atlantic can yachts have congregated in Antigua at this time
also be undertaken from the east coast of either the of year for one week of racing, and a lot of fun
USA'or Canada. The best time for leaving is also late besides, before setting off for either Europe or
spring or early ·summer when Europe can be North America.
reached either direct or via the Azores. Such timing Races such as the Antigua Sailing Week are now
does not allow too much time to be spent in the more being held regularly in all the popular cruising
northern parts of Europe as one has to head south areas or along the major cruising routes. Also in
before the onset of the autumn gales. However, time the Caribbean, the Heineken Regatta is held in St
can be .spent in Portugal, Spain, Gibraltar, or Maarten at the beginning of March every year.
N!adeira before joining the other boats preparing the Across the world, in Thailand, the annual King's
cross to the Caribbean from the Canaries. As Cup Regatta is held in Phuket at the beginning of
described in the previous example, the Atlantic cir- December at a time when scores of cruising yachts
cle can be interrupted at several points should one are congregating there waiting for the northeast
need to return home for any length of time. The monsoon to blow them across the North Indian
Azores provide a convenient stopover with two good Ocean. The King's Cup is preceded b y the Raja
marinas where a boat can be left in total safety and Muda Cup, a cruising rally along the coast of
in summer there are direct flights to Boston from the Malaysia timed to bring the boats to Phuket in time
isla~d of Terceira. There are similar places where the for the King's Cup Regatta. The Raja Muda Cup
voyage can be interrupted in both the Canaries and caters mainly for cruising boats on a world voy-
Caribbean, as mentioned earlier. age and there are now several events aimed at this
The return voyage from the Caribbean to ports floating community. One of the oldest establishecj
on the east coast of North America offers far more is the Darwin to Ambon Race, starting in July from
choices than those available to European sailors. the capital of Australia's Northern Territory. The
The quickest way is to sail directly to the east coast main attraction of this annual event is that boats
at the end of winter (April), either from the Virgins taking part in it automatically obtain. the com-
or one of the Lesser Antilles and to make landfall pulsory cruising permit for Indonesia. Many of the
in one of the ports south of Cape Hatteras. participants in the Darwin to Ambon Race will
Alternatively one can sail to Bermuda from have taken part earlier in two similar events staged
where it might be easier to reach ports lying fur- in the South Pacific. The annual South Pacific
ther north. Yet another possibility is to sail to . Regatta sets off from Auckland in May and is joined
Florida via the Bahamas and return home by boats which have spent the cyclone season in
through the Intracoastal Waterway. New Zealand and are returning to the tropical
An extended Atlantic circumnavigation has South Pacific as well as Antipodean sailors at the
taken shape in recent years with an increasing num- beginning of their cruises. Later in the season, the
ber of boats sailing from the Canary Islands to Musket Cove to Vila Race is joined by boats sail-
Brazil, either direct or via the Cape Verde Islands ing from "Fiji to Vanuatu.
a nd West Africa. Such a detour usually adds anoth- There are many more examples of such events

13
PRINCIPAL WORLD CRUISING RO UTES

which are joined by cruising boats to reach a par- EUROPA 92, which took place in 1991-2.
ticular popular cruising destination. The various Following the success of that first rally the event
races from Newport, Rhode Island, to Bermuda are is now held every three years.
often joined by boats on their way to the When planning a voyage it may be wqrth keep-
Caribbean or Europe. Similarly, the Caribbean 1500 ing in mind some of the above events, "1hether to
Rally is aimed squarely at North American boats enjoy a week of racing in a particularly beautiful
sailing in November from the Chesapeake Bay area area or take advantage of the safety in numbers
to the Virgin Islands. The inspiration for this event as well as the competitive spirit ot-~uch offshore
was the ARC (Atlantic Rally for Cruisers), which events. Just as attractive can be the help one gets
has been attracting over one hundred boats every in dealing with local au thorities when arriving in
year since it was launched in 1986. The ARC leaves some countries as part of such an international
the Canaries at the end of November and is joined event. Keeping track of when and where such
by boats planning to reach the Caribbean before events take place can be useful both for those
Christmas. The concept of the ARC was applied intending to join and to those determined to avoid
successfully to the first Round the World Rally, the crowds!

14
 3
WINDS AND CURRENTS
OF THE WORLD
ver since man first ventured offshore in·craft
E powered by the wind, he has looked for pat-
terns in the.wind's behaviour. Such observations
s tubbornly try to follow the direct route b etween
two points. This is the reason why it is so impor-
tant to understand the prevailing wind systems of
may.have led the.early fishermen to use an offshore the world, w hich dictate most of the cruising routes
breeze to take their canoes to favourite fishing spots described in the following pages.
in the morning and the onshore breeze to waft them The importance of defining the p revailing
home later in the day. These patterns are still used winds in certain areas of the world w as already
in some parts of the world where fishermen con- recognis~d by the Portuguese and Spanish navi-
tinue to use sailing craft as their forefathers have gators of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and
d on e over countless generations. Discovering a their findings were kept a closely guarded secret
similar regularity for offshore voyaging was for a long time. The first transatlantic voyage by
more difficult and some remote places in the world Christopher Columbus showed his followers that
might have remained unpopulated until much later a detour to the sou th was the best route to the
if early voyagers had been able to find a newly discovered islands of the Caribbean,
favourable wind to return hom.e. The fact that there whereas a northerly sweep was to be preferred for
was a regular pattern to the winds was already the return voyage to Europe. Similarly in the
recogn ised in ancient times and seasonal sailing Pacific, Magellan and other early navigators
routes were a .common feature in the ancient world. demonstrated that the voyage from east to west
The Chinese established such routes in the Far East, across the South Pacific was a relatively easy mat-
the Greeks u sed them in the Aegean, the ter if one stayed within the south easterly trades.
Polynesian s were helped by them to colonise the However, a return voyage against the same
far flung islands of the Pacific, the Papuans are still trades proved impossible until finally the Spanish
following the traditional Kula route with the help navigator Urganeta d iscovered the westerly
of seasonal winds, while Arab traders used the winds of higher latitudes, which came to be called
monsoons of the Indian Ocean to establish a reg- the anti-trades or passage winds.
ulat link between India and East Africa. This worldwide wind pattern has thus been
This reliance on favourable winds for most off- known for a long time and countless navigators
shore voyages lasted until the last century, when have made use of this knowledge over the cen-
the greatly improved windward going capabilities turies. In his Memoir of the Nort/1ern Atlantic Ocean,
of sailing ships freed their masters of the shack- published in its 13th edition in 1873, Alexander
les imposed by having to follow a route governed George Findlay su ccinctly describes this wind pat-
by the wind alone. However, in spite of being able tern in the following words:
to sail closer to the wind, neither d id the masters
'It has been .well observed that the wind systems of our
of the old clippers nor do the skippers of modern
globe naturally govern the tracks of ships crossing the
yachts enjoy battling against head winds, and most
oceans, the trade winds carrying them from East to West
would still make a detour to pick up a fair wind.
wit/tin the tropics, while anti-trade or passage winds
Even in a well designed yacht it is often wiser to
cover a longer distance wi th better winds than to Continued on page 24

15
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE WORLD PRE VAILING WI N D SYSTEMS JAN UARY TO MARCH

---7 -----i --~

___ ~STERLIES. ~ . _ -?>
---7 ____ ., ~ --~

2. · PREVAILING WIND SYSTEMS JANUARY TO MARCH ,#-

16 _u{( 17
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE WORLD PREVAILING WIND SYSTEMS APRIL TO JUNE

18
3. PREVAILING WIND SYSTEMS APRIL TO JUNE

i( 19
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE WORLD
PREVAILING WIND SYSTEMS JULY TO SEPTEMBER

4. PREVAILING WIND SYSTEMS JULY TO SEPTEMBER

20
21
WINDS AND CURRcNTS OF THE WORLD PREVAILING WIND SYSTEMS OC TOBER TO DECE MBER

. .. . •::- .... _,.,,,·'---;l/"

WESTERLIES

I• ,.
'
. ;

5. PREVAILING WIND SYSTEMS OCTOBER TO DECEMBER

22 ' 23
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE WORLD

will bring them back again eastward beyond the trop- larly the trade winds, tend to travel a few degrees
ics. If it were not for the intervening belt of calms, sail- south or north with the sun.
ing directions for vessels going into opposite hemispheres
would be of the simplest kind; but the well-known Trade winds
Equatorial embarrassments - "the doldrums" - general- J
ly make a ven; different matter of it, and cause many con- These steady winds which blow on either side of
siderations to enter into the problem of shaping a course.' the equatorial doldrums were so called because of
the assistance they gave to the trade oj sailing ships.
The three main factors that influence the formation The early Spanish navigators gave"fl1em the more
and direction of the wind are atmospheric pressure, romantic sounding name of alisi~s. These regular
air temperature, and the rotation of the earth. The winds are usually NE in the northern hemisphere
primary cause of wind is a difference of tempera- and SE in the southern hemisphere. They rarely
ture. This in its turn leads to a difference in a tmos- reach gale force and on average blow at force 4 to
pheric pressure mainly because of the tendency of 5. The weather associated with the trade winds is
warm air to rise, which is then replaced by cold air usually pleasant, with blue skies and fluffy cumu-
drawn from elsewhere. Air also tends to flow from lus clouds. The barometric pressure within the trade
an area of high pressure to one of low pressure. wind belt is steady, interrupted only by a pressure
Permanent areas of high pressure are situated wave, which causes a slight rise and fall of the
between approximately the latitudes of 20' and 40', barometer every 12 hours. If the diurnal movement
both north and south of the equator. On eitJ1er side of the barometer ceases, or if it is very pronounced,
of these cells of high pressure there are areas of low a tropical disturbance can be expected . The entire
pressure. If it were not for the rotation of the earth, trade wind belt, including the doldrum zone that
the wind direction would be either north or south, lies between the two systems, moves north and
from an area of high pressure to one of low pres- south during the year. This movement is influenced
sure, but because the earth is rotating on its axis in by the movement of the sun, although there can
an easterly direction, air which is drawn towards be a delay of up to two months between the move-
a centre of low pressure is deflected to the right in ment of the sun itself and that of the doldrums. The
the northern hemisphere and to the left in the south- trade winds are less steady in the vicinity of. the
ern one. The result of this movement in the north- Intertropical Convergence Zone.
ern hemisj',.here is the anti-clockwise circulation of
wind around a low pressure area and the clockwise lntertropical Convergence Zone
rotation of wind around a high pressure area. The This area ~f low barometric pressure lying
opposite is the case in the .southern hemisphere, between the trade wind regions of the two hemi-
where the wind circulates in a clockwise direction spheres is known as the lntertropical Convergence
around a low pressure area and in an anti-clock- Zone (ITCZ), the equatorial trough, or more com-
wise direction around a high pressure area. monly as the doldrums. The winds in this area are
Diagrams 2 to 5 show the way in which winds either light or nonexistent and the weather is sul-
on the equatorial side of the high pressure belts try and hot. The only interruptions are occasion-
blow towards the equator from a NE direction in al squalls and thunderstorms, when rain can be
the northern hemisphere and from a SE direction very heavy. The extent of the doldrums varies
in the southern hemisphere. North and south of greatly from year to year and season to season.
those areas of high pressure the winds in both Although the doldrums have earned their bad rep-
hemispheres are predominantly westerly. utation because of the frequent calms that could
In many areas these systems are distorted by delay ships for days on end, doldrum weather can
land masses, which are subjected to more pro- som etimes be particularly unpleasant, with vio-
nounced differences of temperature and barometric lent squalls and raging thunderstorms. Weather
pressure than the oceans. The wind systems are in the doldrums tends to be worse when the trade
also affected by the seasons, since the annual move- winds blow al their str~ngest.
ment of the sun causes the areas of high pressure
to move towards the poles in the summer.
Because of this movement, the wind systems asso- Variable winds
ciated with these l\reas of high p ressure, particu- A zone of light and variable winds extends on the

24
 WINDS AND C UR RENTS OF THE WORLD

polar sides of the trade winds, corresponding more sion is dictated by the closeness of the isobars,
or less with the high pressure areas of the two which can be seen on a synoptic chart as lines join-
hemispheres, between latitudes 25 ' and 35 ' ing areas of equal barometric pressure. The clos-
approximately. These zones were given the name er the isobars lie together the stronger the wind.
of Horse Latitudes, because sai.ling ships that were The approach of a depression is always indicated
becalmed in these areas were sometimes forced to by a falling barometer and usually by a change in
kill the animals on board due to the Jack of d rink- the aspect of the sky and cloud formation. It may
ing water. be worthwhile studying this aspect of meteorolo-
gy, so as to be able to predict the kind of wind and
Westerly winds weather to expect both on passage and in port.
The higher latitudes of both hemispheres have a
large proportion of westerly winds, which prevail Tropical squalls
north and sou th of latitude 35 •. Westerly winds are This is a common phenomenon encountered in the
stronger and more predominant in the southern tropics, especially below latitude 20'. These lin-
ocean, where they often blow with gale force from ear disturbances travel from east to west at 20-25
the same direction for several days. Because of the knots and are usually perpendicular to the direc-
more extensive land masses in the northern tion of the prevailing wind. They are accompanied
hemisphere, the westerlies of the northern oceans by thundery and squally weather. The first indi-
are lighter and I·ess consistent. cation of an approaching line squall is a heavy band
of cumulo-nimbus to the east. The wind is usual-
Monsoons ly light or calm and the atmosphere oppressive.
Seasonal winds are experienced in several areas As the cloud approaches it becomes dark and men-
of the world, the name monsoon deriving from the acing with occasional thunder and lightning. The
Arabic word meaning 'season'. Such winds blow bottom of the cloud has the appearance of a straight
consistently from one direction for one season and line but it sometimes changes to an arch as it pass- .
after a short interruption blow with equal con- es overhead. Suddenly there is a blast of wind from
sistency from the opposite direction. The most an easterly direction, which on average rises to 25
important regions affected by such seasonal - 30 knots, although occasionally it can be much
winds are the Indian Ocean and West Pacific Ocean. stronger. Shortly after the blast of wind, it starts
to rain heavily. Such squalls last on average about
half an hour, although sometimes they may last
Depressions longer. The barometer does not indicate their
A depression is an area of low barometric pressure, approach, therefore they can only be detected visu-
which is usually responsible for periods of unset- ally, although they also show up on radar. As some
tled weather, although not all depressions are of these squalls can be quite vicious, it is prudent
accompanied by strong winds. Depressions occur in squall prone areas to reduce sail at night, w hen
most frequently in middle and higher latitudes, their approach is more difficult to detect. In the
although the most severe storms encountered at North Atlantic, line squalls occur especially at the
sea are those formed in the low latitudes and of beginning and end of the rainy season (May to
a revolving nature, discussed in the next section. October) and are particularly violent near the
As stilted earlier, winds in the northern hemi- African coast. In the South Pacific squalls can occur
sphere blow around low pressure areas in an at all times, although as a rule they are not as vio-
anti-clockwise direction, while in the southern lent as the North Atlantic variety. Line squalls are
hemisphere the direction is clockwise. Most less of a problem during the NE monsoon of the
depressions move in an easterly direction, a few North Indian Ocean, but can be violent during the
moving in other directions at times. The speed at opposite SW monsoon.
which they move can vary from very little to 40
knots or more. Usually depressions last about four
to five days and their movement gradually slows
Tornadoes
down as they fill and the pressure rises. Tornadoes and waterspouts occur in the same areas
The strength of the wind generated by a depres- and during the same season as tropical storms.

25
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE WOR LD

..... •::_ ......·' '. -·

'o

. ..
~: .
- __ :;.-- ';

..

6. WORLD DISTRIBUTIQN OF TROPICAL STORMS

~--
 WORLD
. D ISTRIBUTION OF TROPICA1- STORMS

... ... ,
\
\

,... .,..-- ''

I
'
''
''
' ....... .... __

---~
..\ ,

· ~·:;,/... ...

27
WINDS AND CURR BNTS OF THE WORLD

They usually travel in the same direction as the Convergence Zone, where the two opposing
prevailing wind and their approach can normal- trade wind systems converge. Under certain con-
ly be seen, especially as they rarely form at night. ditions of barometric pressure, temperature, and
The wind generated by a tornado can be extreme- moisture, the resulting whirlpool of air created at
ly violent, but as the actual area covered is very the point of convergence can develop in\~ a severe
small, the likelihood of being hit by such a whirl- trop!cal revolving storm. The most dangerous areas
wind at sea is quite remote. Waterspouts sometimes affected by such storms are the western North
occur during afternoon thunderstorms in the vicin- Atlantic from Grenada to Cape Hatt~ras, the west-
ity of the coast, the ocean side of Chesapeake Bay ern North Pacific from Guam to fa pan, the South
being particularly vulnerable during the summer Pacific from the Marquesas to the Coral Sea, the
months. north and northwest coasts of Australia, the south-
west Indian Ocean, and the Bay of Bengal. In some
of these areas tropical storms occur several times
Tsunamis a year, while others are only hit about once every
These are large waves caused by an earthquake ten years.
which can occur thousands of miles from the place In addition to their circular motion, tropical
where the destructive effects of the gigantic revolving storms also have a forward movement.
wave will be felt. Tsunamis occur mostly in the In the northern hemisphere the movement is ini-
Pacific Ocean, and ports both on the continent and tially WNW, storms recurving gradually to the N
islands have been hit by tsunamis during the twen- and NE as they reach higher latitudes. In the south-
tieth century. There have been six destructive ern hemisphere the initial movement is WSW,
tsunamis in Hawaii in the last 50 years. The most storms recurving to the SE as they approach lat-
recent major tsunami occurred in 1960 causing itude 20'S. Sometimes a storm does not recurve
great destruction in Hilo where over 60 people lost but continues in a WNW direction in the north-
their lives. Boats are better off at sea in deep water, ern hemisphere, or a WSW direction in the south-
preferably over 100 fathoms, where the effect of ern hemisphere, until it hits the continental land-
a tsunami will pass almost unnoticed. mass where it gradually breaks up after causing
much d amage. Occasionally the storm meanders
erratically and its direction is often impossible to
Tropical revolving storms predict with certainty. The speed at which a storm
Tropical ·revolving storms are the most violent is moving is normally about 10 knots in the early
storms that can be encountered at sea and it is both stages and accelerates after recurving.
prudent and wise to try and avoid the areas and Any boat lying in the path of a storm, particu-
seasons where such storms occur. The extremely larly its centre, will be in serious danger. The wind
strong winds generated by these storms and the remains constant in direction until the eye has
huge seas they raise can easily overwhelm a small passed, then, after a brief calm, the wind returns
boat. Depending on which part of the world they from the opposite direction, possibly with greater
occur in, these storms are known as hurricanes, violence, creating rough and confused seas or
cyclones, typhoons, or willy-willies. They blow putting vessels at anchor on a dangerous lee shore.
around an area of low pressure, the rotation being Every storm has two sides, or semicircles, known
anti-clockwise in the northern hemisphere and as the navigable semicircle and the dangerous
clockwise in the southern hemisphere. The wind semicircle. In the northern hemisphere, the dan-
does not move around the centre in concentric cir- gerous semicircle is the half of the storm lying ·on
cles but has a spiral movement, being sucked in the right hand side of the track in the direction in
towards the core of the storm. which the storm is moving. In the southern hemi-
Usually these storms occur on the western sides sphere, the dangerous semicircle is on the left.
of the oceans, although they are also found in other The detection and tracking of tropical storms has
parts of the world. They usually form between lat- greatly improved since the advent of weather satel-
itudes rand 15' on either side of the equator, but lites. Stations WWV in Fort Collins, Colorado and
there have been many instances when tropical WWVH in Kauai, Hawaii, broadcast hourly
storms formed closer to the equator. The breed- reports of tropical s torms, their coordinates,
ing ground of tropical storms is the Intertropical speed of movement and wind strength. Tropical
 WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE WORLD

storm warning~ for the Atlantic Ocean are broad- The same tactic should be applied if the boat is in
cast at 8 minutes past each hour by WWV on 2.5, the navigable semicircle, by trying to run away
5, 10, 15, and 20 MHz. Warnings for the Pacific are from the storm at right angles to its assumed track,
broadcast by WWVH at 48 minutes past the hour also with the wind on the port quarter. If the boat
on 2.5, 5, 10, 'a nd 15 MHz. From the.information is in the dangerous semicircle, one should try and
obtained from these stations it is possible to plot sail close hauled on the port tack so as to proceed
the course of an approaching storm and take the away from the storm centre. If this is not possi-
best avoiding action. The path of the storm in rela- ble, the boat should heave to on the port tack.
tion to the vessel's latest pos.ition wili show the
degree of danger. If one is at sea, the best course Although these general rules are applicable in most
of action is as follows : situations, there can be circumstances when they
should not be followed without question.
Northern hemisphere
Tropical storm strategy depends on many factors,
When facing the wind, the centre of the storm will
such as the lack of sea room or the behaviour of
be between 90. and 135• on the right of the observ-
a particular boat when hove to in strong winds or
er. If the wind veers, i.e. shifts to the right, the boat
running before big quartering seas. Such consid-
is in the right hand semicircle which is the dan-
erations will dictate a different approach to the
gerous semicircle. A backing wind is associated
problem and there is unfortunately no fast rule that
with the navigable semicircle. Ifthe direction of
can be applied at all times. There is no doubt that
the wind is constant, its strength increases and
the safest course of action is to avoid altogether
the barometer falls, the boat is exactly in the path
the areas where tropical storms are likely to occur.
of the storm. If the direction of the wind is not
Therefore the most important consideration when
changing, but its strength decreases while the
drawing up plans for a voyage is to make sure that
barometer slowly rises, the boat is directly
the boat will not be in an area affected by tropi-
behind the centre.
cal storms during the dangerous season. If one
The generally accepted tactic for vessels
plans to pass through an area which is never entire-
caught in the path of a tropical storm is to run off
ly free from tropical storms, one should attempt
on the starboard tack by keeping the wind on the
to sail during the months of lowest frequency. Such
starboard quarter. The same tactic should be
a strategy is not too complicated to follow and
applied if the boat is in the navigable semicircle
many boats have spent several years cruising in
when one should try and follow a course at right
the tropics without ever being in the wrong place
angles to the assumed track of the storm.
at the wrong time, simply by leaving the hurricane
Depending on the boat's behaviour in a quarter-
zone during the dangerous season and returning
ing sea, one should try and either run under bare
at the end of it. The directions given for various
poles or storm jib. If the boat is' in the dangerous
cruising routes mention the hurricane prone
semitircle one should heave to on the starboard
months, so that these can be avoided when plan-
tack or, if possible, sail close hauled on the same
ning a cruise along those routes.
tack, with the object of moving away from the
storm centre. · · Tropical storms are most frequent during the late
summer or early autumn in both hemispheres. The
Southern hemisphere safe season in the northern hemisphere is from
South of the equator, the centre of a tropical storm mid-November to mid-June, whereas the safe sea-
is between 90 ·and 135 '. on the left of the observ- son for the southern hemisphere lasts from about
er. If the wind is backing, the· boat is in the dan- May until mid-November. The only tropical area
gerous semicircle; if it veers, the boat is in the entirely free of hurricanes is the South Atlantic.
navigable semicircle. The vessel is directly in the In the Western North Pacific no month is consid-
path of the storm if the wind is constant in direc- ered to be entirely safe, although typhoons are
tion. An increasing velocity combined with a falling extremely rare in winter: In the Coral Sea,
barometer means that the boat is in front of the extraseasonal cyclones are not uncommon and
storm, a decreasing wind speed and a rising barom- have been recorded as late as June and even July.
eter means that the observer is behind the centre. In the Arabian Sea cyclones do not occur in sum-
The best tactic if one is directly in front of the mer, but at the change of the monsoon, either in
storm is to run with the wind on the port quarter. May-June or in October-November. Diagram 6

29
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE WORLD

Run with wind on ,,,..,,,,..~

starboard quarter .....'\~~e .;
/ ~o I
=t / ~~
o / e.V
~~ /~e," Soil close hauled on
; 3 I,,,.,, · starboard tack at !]9~t
Run with wind on ~ g, / a.,0 angles to assumed
starboard quarter 3 track or heave to
on starboard tock

- ------,
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
<~
/~
/.~') .
/'>)"'')
,,...,,.,/
~---i- - - ______ .,,,.,,,,,.
Run at right angles Heave to on starboard tack
to assumed track

7. TROPICAL STORM 'fACTICS

NORTHERN HEMISPHERE
 TRO P I C AL STOR M TA CTI C S

Soil close hauled on port

g l>
o"'" en
en
..... c:
tock to·ossumed track or Run with wind on
en 3
heave to on port tock 0-~
c. port quarter
3

\
\
\
\
\
\
\\
IS'~
o~
~~
'tito-,................
Heave to on port tock -- _ _ _l.__ __

Run at right angles

to assumed track

8. TROPICA L STORM. TA CTICS

SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE

31
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE WORLD

shows the world distribution of tropical storms and develop outside the official S!!asons and the early
the months when they are most likely to occur. part of the safe season should be treated with cau-
It is not uncommon for tropical storl'.l'ls to tion. World tropical storm seasons follows:
.I
I

Prevailing winds North India11: The winds are dominated by the two
monsoons, NE in winter (November to March) and
Prevailing weather conditions will be described SW in summer (May to September). The NE mon-
in greati:r detail when dealing with regional routes, soon becomes well established in January and it
but it may be useful to summarise here the wind is most consistent until early March. The winds
patterns of the principal six areas of the world as are much stronger during the SW monsoon, at the
they appear on diagrams 2 to 5. height of which in July and August ·they often blow
North Atla11tic: The NE trade winds blow rough" at over 30 knots.
lybetween latitudes2'N and 20"N to25'N·in win- South Indian: The SE trade winds extend from the
ter, between IO'N and 30"N in summer. In the equator to latitude 25"S in winter (July). During
northern part of the ocean, the winds are pre- the southern summer (January), the SE trade winds
dominantly W becoming SW near the North can be found.between about 10'5 and30'S, theNE
American coast. Between the trade wind and west- monsoon also makes itself felt south of the equa-
erly wind belts there is an area of variable winds. tor possibly as far as 10'5, but is deflected by the
rotation of the earth and becomes the NW mon-
South Atlantic: The SE trade winds cover a wide
soon. To the south of the SE trade wind belt there
belt roughly from the equator to 30"S during the
is a zone of variable winds. T)1e higher latitudes
southern summer. They move north during win- are known for their strong westerly winds.
ter Uuly) when they are found between 3 'N to 5 "N
and 25'S. There are virtually no doldrums south Currents of the world
of the equator. Constant westerly winds are to be Currents occur at all depths of the oceans, but the
found in higher latitudes, but they tend to only ones of real interest to the small boat voyager
become NW and even N on the South American are the surface currents. Because the main cal!lse
side of the ocean, especially during summer. of surface currents is the direction of the wind,
North Pacific: During the summer months the NE there is a close relationship between their direc-
trade winds blow between latitudes 12'N and 30'N, tion and that of the prevailin·g wind. Constant
but move down to an area comprised between lat- winds, such as the trade winds, create some of the
itudes 4 'Nor 5'N and 25 'Nin winter. Between lat- most constant currents, although these do not
itudes 35 'N and 55 'N the wirids are W or NW. The always follow exactly the directionof the wind that
doldrums are less well defined. has generated them. As in the case of the winds,
the rotation of the earth has an effect on currents
So11th Pacific: The SE trades are less constant and too and therefore in the northern hemisphere cur-
reliable than in other oceans. At the height of win- rents tend to- flow to the right of the direction of
ter (June to August) they blow in a belt stretch- the wind, in the southe.r n hemisphere to the left.
ing approximately from 5 'N to 25 'S. During the This is the reason why in the northern hemisphere
southern summer the trade winds are even less the currents flow in a clockwise direction, while
constant and blow south of the equator as far as in the southern hemisphere currents.generally tend
latitude 30'S. Westerly winds blow consistently to follow an anti-clockwise direction. Currents will
south of 30 'S in winter and 40 'S in summer. be described in more detail in relevant routes.
 4
WINDS AND
CURRENTS OF THE
NORTH ATLANTIC
The Northeast trade winds Portuguese Trades which blow from between NE
and NW off the western coast of the Iberian penin-
The NE trade winds extend in a wide belt north sula from April to September or October. Another
of the equator reaching from the west coast of regional variation of the NE trade winds is the har-
Africa to the Caribbean Sea. They blow for most mattan. This is a hot and dry wind, created by the
of the year on the south side of the anti-cyclone NE trade winds blowing over the deserts of Africa
which is situated in about latitude 30"N, commonly and reaching the sea laden with dust. Around lat-
known as the Azores high. The northern limit of itude 20"N it is encountered only in the vicinity
the trade winds is around latitude 25 "N in win- of the African coast, but as one moves further
ter and 30"N in summer, although the constancy south, the harmattan can be experienced farther off-
of the trade winds cannot be relied on near their shore, covering boats in a fine reddish dust and
northern limits. Therefore when making a reducing visibility. This easterly wind normally
transatlantic passage it is advisable to be certain occurs between November and February.
the trade winds are reached before turning west. Another regional phenomenon associated with
The constancy of the trade winds improves dur- the area which is normally under the influence of
ing the winter months as does their strength. the NE trade winds are northers. During the win-
Although the average strength of these winds is ter months vast anti-cyclones develop over the
· force 3-4, it is not uncommon for them to reach North American continent occasionally reaching
force 6 and even 7 during January to March. The as far as the Gulf of Mexico. A strong northerly
trade winds tend to be lighter and less consistent flow of cold air develops ahead of this area of high
in summer, which is also the hurricane season. pressure, and becomes a violent norther which is
They have more of a northerly component in the sometimes felt as far away as the Caribbean. The
eastern part of the ocean and become increasing- progress of a norther is usually checked by the
ly easterly in the Caribbean. higher islands of Hispaniola and Cuba, but to the
The consistency and reliability of the NE trade north of these islands it can be particularly dan-
winds is of particular interest to those who intend gerous, mainly because of the steep seas which are
to make a transatlantic voyage along the classic created when a strong norther hits th~ north flow-
route starting in the Canaries. Although the win- ing Gulf Stream. The approach of a norther is usu-
ter months are reputed to have the inost consistent ally heralded by a heavy bank of cloud on the N
winds, there are years in which these winds are or NW horizon.
found in lower latitudes than normal and it is not.
unusual for boats to cover almost half the distance
to the Caribbean before falling in with steady winds.
Intertropical Convergence Zone
Also described as trade ·winds are the The extent of the trade winds at all times of the
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC

year is influenced by the position of the Hurricanes

Intertropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) or dol-
drums. The ITCZ stays north. of the equator A large area of the western North Atlantic is affect-
throughout the year, although its position varies ed by tropical revolving storms, which c~n occur
greatly, mainly in accordance with the seasonal theoretically at any time, as hurricanes !{ave been
movement of the sun, but also on a diurnal basis. recorded over the last few centuries in every month
The width of the doldrums is also variable and of the year, although extremely r,11lely in some
averages between 200 and 300 miles, although it months. The normal hurricane sea·s on is from late
tends to be wider near the African coast and nar- May until early December, the highest frequency
rower near Brazil. The weather inside the doldrum occurring from August to October, with a lower
belt is more turbulent in the wider eastern region number occurring in the rest of the season.
than in the west, with frequent squalls and thun- September has the highest frequency, with an aver-
derstorms occurring. age of two hurricanes per month over a period of
100 years, although in some years the number of
hurricanes recorded in September was much
Southwest monsoon higher. In fact both the frequency and intensity of
The heat generated by the landmass of Africa dur- hurricanes varies greatly from year to year, some
ing the summer lowers the barometric pressure years being extremely bad with up to 15 hurricanes,
over that area and causes the ITCZ to be deflect- while other years go by with hardly any being
ed towards the north. The SE trade wind of the recorded. A West Indian rhyme describes the sea-
South Atlantic is thus drawn across the equator son as follows: ·
and arrives off the coast of Africa as the SW mon-
June too soon,
soon. It lasts from June to October between the
July standby,
equator and latitude 15'N, but in the Gulf of
August look out you must,
Guinea light SW winds prevail throughout the
September remember,
year.
all
October over!
Variables Most hurricanes are born in the doldrum area west
A band of variable winds extends across the of the Cape Verde Islands. They usually travel west
Atlantic to the north of the NE trade winds. This towards the Caribbean, their tracks moving
is the area of high atmospheric pressure which clockwise around the perimeter of areas of high
straddles the 30th parallel, being situated slight- pressure. The area most affected by hurricanes is
ly to the north of it in summer and to the south the Caribbean Basin, particularly the northern part
in winter. The winds in the eastern half of this area of the Lesser Antilles, the Virgins, Bahamas,
are usually northerly and cari be regarded as an · Bermuda, the Gulf of Mexico, and Florida. At the
extension of the trade winds. In the western part beginning and end of the hurricane season, these
of the ocean the winds are often very light and long storms sometimes develop in the Western
periods of calms can be expected. This is the area Caribbean, from where th.ey move in a northerly
of the Horse Latitudes and the feared Sargasso Sea direction mainly affecting the southern states of
where sailing ships used to be becalmed for weeks the USA. The later months of the season are par-
on end. ticularly dangerous for those sailing in the
Caribbean, as September and October hurricanes
usually develop locally and warnings are short-
Westerlies er. Therefore if one intends to sail in the
Westerly winds predominate in the northern part Caribbean during the hurricane season, especial-
of the Atlantic Ocean, where the weather is often ly among the Lesser Antilles, it is safer to plan to
unsettled, mainly due to the almost continuous be there at the beginning of the hurricane season
passage of depressions that race across the ocean (May to June) rather than towards its end
in an easterly direction. The winds in these high- (October to early November). The high frequen-
er latitudes are less constant in direction than those cy months of August and particularly September
of the Roaring Forties of the Southern Ocean, should be avoided altogether. A useful tip con-
although the predominant direction is westerly. cerning West Indian hurricanes is that if during
 WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC

May, June, and July the wind remains above aver- lion is the Gulf Stream, which in spite of its name
age strength, the rainfall below average, and the does not originate in the Gulf of Mexico but is a
humidity also low, less than two hurricanes can continuation of the North Equatorial Current. The
be expected to hit the Eastern Caribbean during wide band of warm water sweeps along the east-
August and September. ern side of North America until it meets the cold
Labrador Current, which forces it to flow in an east-
Currents· erly direction. From about longitude 45 "Wit ceas-
es to be so strong and continues eastwards as the
The currents of the North Atlantic are part of a vast North Atlantic Current. In the eastern part of the
clockwise moving system that occupies the entire ocean the currents are less well defined, the North
ocean south of latitude 40 "N. The NE trade Atlantic Current fanning out into different direc-
winds create the North Equatorial Current, which tions to form the south setting Azores Current and
sets westward from the Cape Verde Islands to the further east the Portugal Current. This current sets
Caribbean. Running to the north of it is the weak- along the Iberian peninsula, one branch being
er North Subtropical Current. Part of the North deflected through the Strait of Gibraltar into the
Equatorial Current sets into the Caribbean Sea, Mediterranean, while the other sets SW along the
while-another branch flows northward along the African coast to become the Canary Current.
Lesser Antilles and is known as the Antilles Ultimately this current turns west to join the North
Current. Equatorial Current, thus completing the clockwise
The mainspring of the North Atlantic circula- system of the North Atlantic currents.

North Atlantic currents

.35
WI N DS AND CURRENTS OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC

South of latitude 10"N ~he pattern of the currents where it disappears altogether. The South
is more complex. Between the two westward set- Equatorial Current combines in this region with
ting equatorial currents is the Equatorial the North Equatorial Current to form a strong west-
Countercurrent. In winter this eastward setting ward flowing current which is defletted in a
countercurrent is most noticeable along latitude northerly direction along the coast of South
6 "N east of about longitude 45 'W, but it diminishes America towards the Lesser Antill7··
in-strength towards the South American continent
 5
ROUTES IN THE
NORTH ATLANTIC
he North Atlantic is crisscrossed' by a larger from the US east coast at that time of year are sel-
T number of sailing routes than any other
ocean; and cruising boats have penetrated its fur-
dom easy and therefore the alternative, albeit
longer, route is an attractive proposition. Its great-
thest reaches from the steaming jungle of the est advantage is that it offers the possibility to
Orinoco to the icy fjords of Greenland. The great- cruise in the best seasons throughout the year. By
est concentration of cruising boats is in Northern leaving the USA in May, one can cross the
Europe and North America, from which areas most Atlantic via Bermuda and the Azores, spend the
offshore routes originate. To these should be added summer in Europe, recross the Atlantic in
the routes fanning out from the Mediterranean, November, spend the winter in the Caribbean and
another area of great concentration. Although acer- return home the following May. This schedule is
tain proportion-of offshore voyages are two-way a perfect example of being in the right place at the
and fit into a normal summer vacation, an right time as it avoids the hurricane season in the
, increasing number of people are undertaking Western Atlantic, both Atlantic crossings are
longer voyages lasting several months. Many of undertaken at the most favourable times, the
them complete a North Atlantic circumnavigation Caribbean islands are visited at the optimum.sea-
by planning a voyage that takes advantage of the son, and the return home is accomplished before
most favourable weather conditions along the the start of the new hurricane season.
entire route. The traditional route from America to Europe,
Christopher Columbus was the first navigator which runs along higher latitudes to take advan-
to realise that there was a certain pattern to North tage of the prevailing westerlies, is used mostly
Atlantic weather and in his four transatlantic voy- by American or Canadian sailors crossing to
ages he used the prevailing conditions to best Ireland, Britain or other North European desti-
advantage. Ever since Columbus completed the nations. Boats heading for southern ports in
first Atlantic circle in 1493, his example has been Europe, including the Mediterranean, usually take
followed by countless sailors. The circuit has· been the warmer route via the Azores.
increasingly popular with European sailors Most offshore passages from Northern Europe
migrating west with the NE trade winds by reach- are southbound and there is a very good reason
ing the Caribbean islands via the Canaries and for this. The dream of almost every cold water
returning east with the westerlies of higher lati- sailor is to cruise in warmer weather and so, when
tudes, usually by calling at Bermuda and the the time finally comes for that cruise, they invari-
Azores. In recent years, the circuit has been joined ably point their bows southwards, at least as far
by sailors from the east coast of North America, as the Mediterranean, but more likely the
who reach the Caribbean by what appears to be Cana~ies and Caribbean. Westbound passages in
a roundabout route. For those who intended to higher latitudes to America are now very much
spend a season in the Eastern Caribbean islands the exception, as most cruising sailors prefer to
the accepted practice was to sail to the Lesser reach the other side of the Atlantic by a more
Antilles at the end of the hurricane season, in late .roundabout and comfortable route. Even the
October or early November. However, passages route to the Azores attracts considerably fewer

::17
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

North European boats than in the past, when a attracting boats from both sides of the Atlantic to
summer cruise to the Azores was not regarded as those areas. Because of the relatively short cruis-
out of the ordinary. For most European sailors, the ing season in the Baltic, the quickest way to reach
Azores are now mainly a convenient stopover on that inland sea is via the Kiel Canal. ;
the way home from the Caribbean. More ambitious sailors have even oeen tempt-
The opening up of the former Communist coun- ed to visit some of the Russian ports on the White
tries bordering on the Black and Baltic Seas is Sea and the sight of cruising boa'-5ailing beyond

ANlO ROUTES .FROM NORTH EUROPE

ANll Europe to North America (northern routes) 39
AN12 Europe to North America (southern routes) 40
AN13 Southbound from Northern Europe 42
AN14 Routes across the Bay of Biscay 42
AN15 Northern Europe to Portugal 43
AN16 Northern Europe to Mediterranean 44
AN17 Northern Europe to Madeira 45
AN18 Northern Europe to Canary Islands 46
AN19 Northern Europe to Azores 47
60"W ()"

ANJO Routes from Northern Europe

 AN10 ROUTES FROM NORTH EUROPE

the Arctic Circle is no longer a rarity. major hurdles before reaching the more benign
Because the sailing season in Northern Europe southern part of the North Atlantic. Sailing from
is limited to only a few months, most offshore pas- the North Sea towards the English Channel one
sages take place between May and August. has to put up with one of the highest concentra-
Earlier, the weather is still cold and unsettled, tions of shipping in the world, and if the visibil-
although for northbound passages the early part ity is poor and the wind unfavourable it is better
of the season has better chances of favourable, if to go into a port and wait for a change. The next
strong, winds from the SW. With the onset of sum- hurdle is the Bay of Biscay where even in a mod-
mer, the likelihood of NE winds is higher. After erate gale the seas can become very rough.
the end of August the weather becomes more However, the notorious bay is only about 300 miles
unsettled and at least one violent storm can be across and if one leaves with a favourable forecast
expected either side of the autumn equinox. from a place like Falmouth, one should be able to
Anyone sailing from the north has to pass two cross without being caught out by the weather.

ANll Europe to North America (northern routes)

39
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

From the Vikings and the Pilgrim Fathers to par- consulted before deciding on the best tactic. ·
ticipants in singlehanded races, the westbound The main object of the most northerly routes
transatlantic routes of high latitudes have been well (ANllB and AN11C) is to stay north of the lows
sailed over the centuries. The great circle route from that move across the Atlantic from west to east.
the English Channel (AN11A) is probably the most Although the ·chances of finding entirely
difficult as there is usually a battle against head- fa yourable winds are only marginally better than
winds all the way across. The alternatives are either on the direct route (ANllA), boats with good wind-
to make a detour to the north, in the hope of find- ward going capabilities have made speedy pas-
ing more favourable winds (ANll B), a track clos- sages, as between the lows the' winds are IllOSt
er to the great circle route from Scotland likely to be either NW or SW. These northern routes
(ANUC), or to make a detour to the south, in search converge at waypoint AN113 from where a new
of warmer weather, as described in AN12. All of course is set for the port of destination. As these
the northern routes can be affected by fog and ice routes pass through an area with a very high inci-
and their timing is therefore crucial. In July, the dence of fog and ice, they should only be attempt-
maximum iceberg limit extends SE from ed later in the summer.
Newfoundland to 39.N, SO'W; in August the ice One of the shortest routes across the Atlantic is
limit recedes to above latitude 41 "N, which Iirn- the great circle route from the English Channel to
its passages close to those latitudes to a few sum- St John's in Newfoundland (ANJ 1D). As the course
mer months. As most of the Western Atlantic can reaches its northernmost latitude at WP AN114,
be affected by tropical storms, this hazard should in some years this could be perilously close to the
be borne in mind also, especially during late sum- ice limit. Early in the season, or in a year with more
mer passages. ice than usual, it may be worth considering route
The prevailing winds on route AN11A are most- AN12A which keeps to the south of the ice limit.
ly westerly with the added disadvantage of sail- This limit fluctuates from year to year and month
ing against the Gulf Stream. It can be to month. The average iceberg limits for July and
counterproductive to try and avoid the contrary August are mentioned above, but a more norther-
current by moving south, as this brings the pos- ly course can be chanced if up to date ice reports
sibility of straying into the Azores high. To avoid can be obtained by radio.
the effect of the Gulf Stream entirely one may.have Boats bound for US ports should use WPs AN115
to go further south along one of the routes and AN116 to avoid the shallows off Sable Island and
described in AN12, or take a more northerly track. Nantucket Shoal respectively. Only a few interme-
Tuning on these routes is crucial and weather fore- diate waypoints are suggested as all of these routes
casts for as long as a week in advance should be should be approached with complete flexibility.

AN12 Europe to North America (southern routes)

 ANlO ROUTES FROM NORTH EUROPE

To avoid the headwinds and cold weather on the Route AN12B is a fair weather alternative and
more direct transatlantic routes described in also a continuation of route AN19 via the Azores
AN11, there is a choice of a more southerly course, (page 47) . Although longer than the other routes,
which can be either direct (AN12A) or via the it has the advantage of warmer weather and a
Azores (AN12B). mid-Atlantic stop for rest and reprovisioning. The
The prevailing winds on route AN12A are west- course westward from the Azores will depend both
erly with the added disadvantage of sailing on the final port of destination and the weather
against the Gulf Stream. It can be counterpro- encountered. Depending on the winds encoun-
ductive to try and avoid the contrary current by tered, one should not move north of about latitude
. moving south, as this brings the possibility of stray- 37 "N so as to avoid the southern limit of the Gulf
ing into the Azores high, so one must be prepared Stream and possibly the Azores high as well. South
to either put up with the current or move far and southwesterly wil1ds prevail along this route
enough south to avoid it altogether. Fast passages in summer.
have been recorded on this route, but this has been This route is likely to be affected by tropical
due mainly to the individual boat's performance storms after the middle of June, the risk of hurri-
as well as access to weather information. Weather canes increasing as summer progresses. For the
forecasts for at least one week in advance should same reason, a stopover in Bermuda is only rec-
be consulted before departure to be able to ommended in an emergency as it involves a detour
decide on the best tactic. Passages in early sum- and also increases the time spent in an area affect-
mer should use WP AN121 to avoid the southern ed by hurricanes. Route AN137(page148) should
ice limit. West of the Azores waypoints AN122 and be consulted for details if a stop in Bermuda is
AN123 are given to avoid the shallows off Sable envisaged.
Island and Nantucket Shoal respectively.

41
ROUTES IN THE NORT H ATLANTIC

AN13 Southbound from Northern Europe

For southbound yachts from the Baltic, the Kiel increases. September has some of the most violent
Canal offers a convenient access to the North Sea. storms, usually associated with the equinox.
From WP AN130 in the Elbe estuary, the route runs Although not ideal, October can be a reasonably
parallel to the Frisian islands. All routes from good month for a southbound passage allowing
Scandinavia and Northern Europe converge into those who have dallied too long to join the boats
the Straits of Dover on their way towards the Bay heading south from Gibraltar and Madeira
of Biscay. The early summer months are the best towards the Canary Islands. In this case sufficient
time for these southbound passages as weather time should be allowed and charts carried of bolt
conditions and winds are generally favourable both holes along the Dutch and English coasts in which
in the North Sea and the English Channel. The to seek shelter in threatening weather. As this route
winds from May to July are mostly northerly and intersects some of the busiest shipping lanes in
the frequency of gales in the North Sea is low. Good the world, particular attention must be paid to
conditions can be relied upon to last until about shipping, especially in bad weather and poor
the middle of August after v:'hich the risk of gales visibility.

AN14 Routes across the Bay of Biscay

Whether starting off from an English harbour or wait for favoi.trable conditions for the continuation
any port in continental Europe, it is advisable to of a voyage. A departure should not be attempt-
make a last stop in Falmouth to wait for a good ed if SW winds are forecast, which are generated
weather forecast before crossing the Bay of Biscay. by depressions moving across the North Atlantic.
This port in the SW of England has good docking As soon as the depression has passed, NW winds
and repair facilities and is excellently situated to can be expected and with a reasonable long term
 AN10 ROUTES FROM NORTH EUROPE

forecast there is usually sufficient time to reach Cape thousands of miles away.
Finisterre before another change in the weather. The best time to make this passage is in early
Regardless of the forecast and the actual direc- summer, between May and July, when the weath-
tion of the wind, it is wise to try and make some er is often settled and the winds favourable, prob-
westing and not follow a rhumb line across the Bay. ably from the NE. Towards the end of summer the
Taking as a departure point WP AN140, just south frequency of gales increases and more attention
of Lizard Point, course is set for WP AN141, 20 · should be paid to the forecasts from the middle
miles west of Cape Villano and some 25 miles NW of August to the end of September when some of
of Cape Finisterre, at the start of the shipping sep- the most violent storms have been recorded.
aration zone going around the latter. For the con- Although called equinoctial gales these violent
tinuation of the southbound routes see AN15 and storms can occur on either side of the autumn
AN16 (below and page 44). equinox and the seas generated by them in the Bay
As a rule, while crossing the Bay of Biscay, if the of Biscay can be extremely rough.
winds are from the SW and one is sailing on the With a good forecast, especially early in the sum-
starboard tack, one should avoid being set too mer, one may be tempted to stop first at one of the
much to the SSE or SE, so as not to be embayed Spanish ports, such as La·Coruna. The rest of the
by a SW gaie, which is the usual direction of the voyage can then be continued in easy stages along
wor~t gales. Because of the abrupt change from the western coasts of Spain and Portugal. Those
deep to shallow waters in the Bay of Biscay, seas planning to stop in Northern Spain can sail a direct
can become extremely rough even in a moderate route by setting course from WP AN140 to WP
storm. The situation is sometimes exacerbated by AN142, three miles WNW of Cape Prior, in the
a high swell generated by a hurricane blowing approaches to La Corufta.

AN15 Northern Europe to Portugal

Boats not intending to stop on the north Spanish increases and more attention should be paid to the
coast should skirt the Bay of Biscay and make for forecasts from the middle of August to the end of
waypoint AN151, approximately 25 miles NW of September when some of the most violent storms
Cape Finisterre. This avoids both the Bay itself and have been recorded.
the busy traffic passing close to Cape Finisterre. Having weathered Cape Finisterre, landfall can
The best time to make this passage is in early sum- be made at WP AN152, off Rio Lima, a tidal river
mer, between May and July, when the weather is on the north shore of which lies Viana do Castelo,
often settled and the winds favourable. Towards an attractive small town with a marina, which is
the end of the summer the frequ~ncy of gales a convenient place to·dear into Portugal. Its main

43
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

drawback is the bar across the river entrance where Berlenga Islands. From there course is altered for
seas break in onshore w inds. In such a case it is WP AN154, off Cabo Raso, in the approaches to
wise to look for an alternative. Lisbon. Canal Norte (North Channel) leads into
If one is short of time, one can sail nonstop to the Tagus River, the Portuguese capital being sit-
Lisbon. From WP AN151, off Cape Finisterre, a uated about 8 miles upstream on the/north shore
course should be set for WP AN153, west of of the river.

AN16 Northern Europe to Mediterranean /

I

Instructions for crossing the Bay of Biscay are sim- AN165, 2 miles south of Tarifa Island and inside
ilar to those described in ANlS. Boats intending the westgoing shipping lane. A course parallel to
to sail to the Mediterranean nonstop should stay the Spanish coast will take one into the Bay of
well offshore and pass Cape Finisterre at a safe dis- Gibraltar to WP AN166 off Punta Carnero and
tance by setting course for WP AN161. During thence to WP AN167 off North Mole and the
summer the winds along the Portuguese coast are approaches to Marina Bay. Boats. proceeding into
usually favourable northerlies, which will ensure the Mediterranean without calling at Gibraltar
a fast sail all the way to Cape St Vincent. From Cape should make for WP AN168,_ 3 miles south of
Finisterre, the course runs along the lO"W merid- Europa Point. At night boats transiting the Strait
ian and passes close to the west of Berlenga Islands nonstop may find it easier to cross over to the
to WP AN162. From there the course will be altered African coast earlier and stay in the eastgoing ship-
to WP AN163, 7 miles off Cape St Vincent. ping lane.
From Cape St Vincent the course is altered for Once past Cape St Vincent, the Portuguese trades
the Strait of Gibraltar to WP AN164, off Hoyo Bank, are normally lost and winds become more local in
at the SW extremity of the shallows off Cape character. On summer days, a SW sea breeze occurs
Trafalgar. The next waypoint to make for is WP on approaching the Bay of Cadiz. This wind comes

44
 AN10 ROUTES FROM NORTH EUROPE

up around noon and lasts until midnight. If a strong and overflows, the most violent occurring on the
Levanter is predicted in the Strait of Gib~altar, it is north side extending SW from Cape Trafalgar.
advisable to wait for a change in one of the ports Wind against tide can produce rough seas west of
along the Algarve coast (Lagos orVtlamoura) or Bay Tarifa with an easterly wind, and east of Tarifa with
of Cadiz (Puerto Sherry). Another convenient port a westerly wind. The main problem is the
is Barbate, which is not far west of Tarifa and is the strength of the currents and the unpredictability
closest to the Strait. Alternatively, one can find some of the tidal streams. There is a permanent east set-
shelter in the lee of Tarifa Island itself. Weather ting current of about 2 knots through the Strait,
information, as well as other shipping news, can being strongest at the centre and weakest at the
be obtained from Tarifa Radio, which operates a edges. The current is weakest over shallow water
24-hour service in both Spanish and English. where the flow can be reversed by a contrary wind.
The Strait of Gibraltar s~parates Europe from Negotiating the Strait from west to east is u su-
Africa and at its nearest point the two continents ally easier because the prevailing current always
are only 7.5 miles apart. A traffic separation zone sets from the Atlantic into the Mediterranean. By
operates along the 35 miles of the Strait, with west- entering the Strait a t the right time, a boat corn-
bound traffic using the north lane and eastbound ing from the Atlantic can count on as much as nine
traffic the south lane. Small craft can use the hours of favourable current. However, conditions
inshofe lanes, and boats making for Gibraltar are can become extremely rough if a strong Levanter
recommende.d to keep close to the Spanish shore. blows against the current. Although tidal data"'i n
However, one should be extremely cautious, par- the Strait is not entirely reliable, it has been estab-
ticularly at night, as fishing nets are often set with- lished that in the middle of the Strait the east set-
out any regard for shipping. These nets can stretch ting stream starts approximately at the time of HW
for several miles offshore and have even been set Gibraltar and the west going stream six hours later.
in the traffic separation zone between the two ship- It can also be assumed that the tidal flow from high
ping lanes approaching the Strait from the west. to low water is to the east, while the flow from low
The nets are normally marked by small lights, to high water is to the west. The times of HW
which are difficult to see from a distance. Gibraltar can be requested over the VHF radio from
Another hazard to watch out for are tidal races Tarifa Radio.

AN17 Northern Europe to Madeira

45 •
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

As the great circle route from the English Channel In such a case, from WP ANl 71 one should make for
to Madeira passes at a safe distance west of Cape WP Al'\1175 and approach the main harbour on Porto
Finisterre, similar directions apply for the passage Santo from the NE and E. There are a number of dan-
across the Bay of Biscay as for route AN15. As the gers along Porto Santo's coasts and thi:se are avoid-
intention is not to stop in Northern Spain or con- ed by keeping well off the coast and iji{aking for WP
tinental Portugal, some westing should be made AN176. From there the course can be altered for the
after leaving the English Channel so as to have suf- port after Ilheu de Cima, the sm~l islet off the SE
ficient searoom should a southwesterly gale blow extremity of the island, has beef\-left to starboard.'
up while crossing the Bay of Biscay. On leaving During the summer, winds'along this route are
the English Channel, a course should be set for WP mostly favourable with the Portuguese trade winds
ANl 71, some 60 miles NW of Cape Finisterre. Such blowing off the Iberian Peninsula and African
a course avoids the shipping lanes that converge coast. Also favourable is the Portugal Current
on Cape Finisterre. Having passed the latter, boats which sets in a SSW direction.
going to Funchal should set a direct course to WP In theory, this passage can be made at any time
AN172, west of Porto Santo Island. The island of between April and October but the weather
Madeira is best approached from the NE by round- s hould be watched carefully. If a late start is made
ing Ilheu de Fora, a small islet on which stands a as part of a transatlantic passage, particular
powerful light. From WP ANl 73, one mile E of the attention should be paid to the weather forecasts
latter, course can be altered to pass south of Ponta during September and October, as West Indian hur-
de Garajau (WP AN174) and thence to Funchal. ricanes can influence weather conditions even on
Because the marina in Funchal, the capital of the east side of the Atlantic. Some of the worst
Madeira, is very crowded in October, when most cruis- weather on this route has been recorded in
ing boats plan to stop there on their way south, a stop September or early October with gale force south-
in Porto Santo is recommended at this time of year. westerlies generated by a passing front.

AN18 Northern Europe to Canary Islands

The direct course from the English Channel fol- Caribbean, the weather can be less favourable and
lows closely the route to Madeira and the same the likelihood of gales is greater than in summer.
directions apply as for routes AN15 and ANl 7 to As suggested when discussing routes across the
WP AN181 off Cape Finisterre. As such a nonstop Bay of Biscay, such a passage should not be start-
passage from Northern Europe to the Canaries is ed unless there is a good forecast for at least 72
usually attempted late in the season by boats hur- hours. This nonstop route to the Canaries is only
rying to join the trade wind route to the recomm1:mded for those who wish to provision

46•
 AN10 ROUTES FROM NORTH EUROPE

there before a transatlantic passage to the is the entrance to Las Palmas harbour, which in
Caribbean. If planning to sail on to Cape Town, 1994 was undergoing extensive enlargement
Brazil, or any other South Atlantic destination, it works. The eastern-breakwater was being extend-
might be better to keep to the west of the Canaries ed southwards and this may not be shown on some
so as to cross the equator on a meridian where the charts.
doldrums are narrower than in the proximity of If the passage is undertaken earlier in the sea-
the African coast. Transequatorial routes are dis- son with the intention of spending some time cruis-
cussed in chapter 6. ing the Canaries, the first landfaU should be in
South of the Bay of Biscay bad weather is usu- Lanzarote, which lies to windward of aU other
ally associated with depressions moving across the islands in the archipelago. From WP AN181
Atlantic to the north of Madeira and generating course should be set for AN183 off Alegranza. It
strong SW winds. In the likelihood of encounter- is also possible to stop first at Graciosa, a small
ing such weather, it is advisable to keep weU off island north of Lanzarote, which has a smaU but
the Portuguese coast so as to be able to go on the well protected port at La Sociedad, its main set-
starboard tack when the SW winds arrive. Once tlement situated on the north shore of the narrows
the front has passed, the winds wiU move rapid- separating Graciosa from Lanzarote. In this case
ly to the NW. 'A course can then be set for WP landfall is made at AN184 west of Graciosa, from
AN18!2, north of La Isleta light in the approaches where the south coast of the island is follow,ed
to Las Palmas. The conspicuous shape of La Isleta around to La Sociedad. Entry formalities can be
makes a perfect landfall. 2.5 miles further south completed later in Lanzarote itself.

AN19 Northern Europe to Azores

The best time to make this passage is in June or at the eastern extremity of Siio Miguel Island at
July when favourable conditions can usually be WP AN191, two miles east of Penta do Amel.
expected. Although the likelihood of W and SW Those wishing to sail direct to Horta, on Faial,
winds is quite high at the start of the voyage, the should set a course for WP AN192 and.make land-
frequency of N winds increases further south dur- fall NE of Graciosa, the northernmost island of the
ing the summer. It pays to wait before leaving the arfhipelago. From there, the course is altered to
English Channel until N winds are forecast, as they pass west of Sao Jorge island (WP AN193) and
allow a direct course to be set. Arriving from - thence to WP ANl 94 off Ponta Espalamaca in the
Northern Europe, the most convenient port of entry approaches to Horta. In strong SW winds, the chan-
is the capital Ponta Delgada, which has a new nel between' Pico and Faial, in the approaches to
marina. Coming from NE or E landfall will be made Horta, can be affected by violent gusts. These, and

47
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

the north setting current, should be taken into one of the ports on the Iberian Peninsula one has
account if attempts are made to enter Horta under the benefit of the Portuguese trades, although such
such conditions. a detour can add about 300 miles to the total dis-
If W winds persist on leaving the English tance. However, the possibility of epcountering
Channel, or strong SW winds are encountered en westerly winds on the subsequent s,~ction to the
route, and a direct course to the Azores does not Azores cannot be discounted and therefore such
seem practicable, it might be better to change plans a detour should not be contemplp.ted unless one
and sail there via Spain or Portugal. Such a route has access to reliable weather iJlformation.
is described in ANIS. On the subsequent leg from

AN20 ROUTES FROM PORTUGAL

AN21 Portugal to Gibraltar 49
AN22 Portugal to Canary Islands 50
AN23 Portugal to Madeira 51
AN24 Portugal to Azores 52
AN25 Portugal to Northern Europe 53

4o•N

CANARY ISLAND.SQ f>. <{j(/}

20•w

AN20 Routes from Portugal

Until recently most sailors associated Portugal with where many North European sailors left their boats
the Algarve coast and the marina at Vilamoura, either before venturing further east into tile

48
 AN20 ROUTES FROM PORTUGAL

Mediterranean or across the Atlantic. The west ficult with the Portuguese trades ensuring fast pas-
coast of Portugal has only recently started attract- sages. Occasionally, however, with the passage of
ing cruising boats in any numbers, but things are a depression, the Winds can come from the south-
rapidly changing as sailors discover the many west, when it is better to wait for a change. The
attractions of this small country whose history has same applies to the passage to the Canaries, which
always been associated with the sea. The capital also benefits from fair winds most of the time.
Lisbon is a delightful city to explore, although Passages to the Azores are usually a mixture of
docking facilities for visitors continue to be dis- good winds for the first half and variable condi-
appointingly inadequate. tions as one approaches the archipelago. ·
The most significant feature of this area are the Because mainland Portugal is often the starting
Portuguese trades, which blow steadily down the point for a cruise in the Azores, a few useful tips
coast during summer months. The prevailing sum- are given in route AN24. A cruise in the Azores
mer winds are northerly. Such winds are common does not lend itself to a logical sequence and there-
from April to September and in June and July can fore its starting point should be dictated by the sub-
reach as far as Madeira. The NW shores of the sequent destination. For those heading west
peninsula experience more variable winds, across the Atlantic and who have the time to spend
although there is also a northerly component in at least two weeks in the Azores, the logical land-
summer. The 'prevailing winds make it essential fall, and start of an Azorean cruise, should be either
to start a summer. cruise as far north as possible. the small island of Santa Maria or the capital Ponta
Similarly, during the summer months it is normally Delgada, on neighbouring Siio Miguel island. Boats
easier to sail from mainland Portugal to its out- planning to return to Portugal or the Med-
lying islands than vice versa. In fine summer iterranean, as well as those intending to sail later
weather there are land and sea breezes along the to Madeira ·and the Canaries, should consider
coast although the northerly trades do modify the making their first landfall as far north as Graciosa
sea breezes to some extent. There is also more sea and start their cruise there by calling successive-
fog in summer near the coast associated with calm ly at Siio Jorge, Faial, Pico, and Terceira on their
or light winds. There is often a remarkable way to Sao Miguel a,nd Santa Maria. Boats bound
change in weather after.Cape St Vincent has been for Northern Europe may find better conditions
passed. The one potential trouble spot for boats for their subsequent voyage to the English
sailing east is the Strait of Gibraltar and the tac- Channel by sailing the obverse route to the one
tics for negotiating it are outlined in route AN16. described and take their leave from the Azores in
Sailing from the mainland to Madeira is rarely dif- Graciosa.

AN21 Portugal to Gibraltar

49
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

Along the western coast of Portugal northerly Bay of Gibraltar. The reporting dock for customs
winds can be expected, especially in summer, when and two of the marinas are easiest found by mak-
the Portuguese trades are the prevailing winds. On ing for WP AN215 off the North Mole.
leaving Lisbon, or any port further up the coast, After Cape St Vincent has been pass~, the winds
Cape Espichel is passed at a safe distance and a become variable and the northerlies/are usually
course is set for WP AN212, 7 miles off Cape St lost. Closer to the Strait of Gibraltar, the winds
Vincent. The course is then altered for WP AN213 change again and usually blow eit)1er in or out of
off Hoyo Bank at the SW extremity of the shallows the Strait. The current is favour~!fle on this route
off Cape Trafalgar. A hazard to be borne in mind as there is a constant flow of water from the
along this route are tun.a nets, which can stretch Atlantic to the Mediterranean. The easterly
for several miles off the Spanish coast and may lay Levanter wind produces a steep sea when blow-
across the above route. The next waypoint to make ing against the contrary current, which can make
for is WP AN214, two miles south of Tarifa Island conditions difficult for a small boat when the wind
and inshore of the westgoing shipping lane. A is strong. Additional directions for transiting tlie
course parallel to the Spanish coast leads into the Strait are given in route AN16.

AN22 Portugal to Canary Islands

This is usually a pleasant passage, especially in spicuous shape of La Isleta makes a perfect land-
summer when the Portuguese trades blow con- fall. 2.5 miles further south is the entrance to Las
sistently and the southbound passage is further Palmas harbour, which in 1994 was undergoing
aided by the favourable current. Boats leaving from extensive enlargement works. The eastern break-
Lisbon (AN22A) can set a course for Gran water was being extended southwards and this is
Canaria as soon as they are safely out of the Tagus only shown on the latest charts.
estuary through t!:te South Channel. From WP From June to September the Portuguese trades
AN221 a course is set for WP AN223 north of La usually provide excellent sailing conditions
Isleta light in the approaches to Las Palmas. If leav- along this route. In May and October the winds
ing from Vilamoura (AN22B) the course should are less constant, although their direction con-
stay well off the African coast as steadier winds tinues to be predominantly northerly. November
will be encountered further offshor.e. From WP · has a higher incidence of winds from other direc-
AN222 one mile SW of the marina entrance, a tions, but winds from the northern quarter are still
course can then be set for the same WP AN223, in the majority. The passage to the Canaries should
north of La lsleta. This keeps clear of all dangers, not be left for too late in the season, as strong SW
including El Roque rock off Punta El Nido. The con- winds with rough seas are often encountered.by

so
 AN20 ROUTES FROM P ORTUGAL

boats sailing this route after the end of October. which is the logical island from which to start a
Anyone intending to see more of the Canaries cruise in the Canary Islands. See AN18 for further
should plan on stopping first in Lanzarote, details. ·

AN23 Portugal to Madeira

Throughout the year the predominant winds on can set a direc~ course (route AN23A) for WP
this route are from the northerly quarter, but best AN233, south of Porto Santo Island. From there
sailing conditions are usually experienced the course is altered for WP AN234, south of Pon ta
between June and August when NE winds prevail. do Garajau, on the south coast of Mad~ira, and
Although these Portuguese trades normally reach thence to Funchal.
as far as Madeira, the likelihood of contrary winds As Porto Santo is on the direct route to Madeira
increases with the approach of winter. During the and the marina in Funchal, the capital of Madeira,
summer, winds along this route are mostly is often very crowded, a stop in Porto Santo is rec-
favourable when the Portuguese trade winds blow ommended . If a stop in Porto Santo is intended,
off the Iberian Peninsula and African coast. Also the initial course (route AN23B) should be set for
favourable is the Portugal Current which sets in WP AN235, NE of Porto Santo. From there make
a SSW direction. The weather in the vicinity of for WP AN236, one mlle NE of llheu de Cima. There
Madeira is influenced by the position of the Azores are a number of dangers along Porto Santo's east
high, light winds and calms occurring when this coast and these are avoided by keeping well off the
high moves south of its normal position. coast and only altering course for the port after
Leaving from either Lisbon (WP AN231) or Ilheu de Cima, the small islet off the SE extremi-
Vilamoura (WP AN232) boats bound for Funchal ty of the island, has been left to starboard.

51
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

AN24 ·Portugal to Azores

This route between continental Portugal and its the main port on Sao Jorge. Terceira itseli has a
offlying archipelago has the benefit of the good harbour at Angra do Heroismo (38'39'N,
Portuguese trades during summer months when 27'13'W), although it is open to the south and
northerly winds predominate. If the passage is made should be avoided in strong winds from that direc-
in May, strong northerly winds may be encountered tion. In strong SW winds, the channel between Pico
for the first days, being replaced by light winds or and Faial, in the approaches to Horta, can be affect-
calms if a ridge of high pressure extending from ed by violent gusts. These, and the north setting
the Azores high is crossed. The winds on the other current, should be taken into account if attempt-
! side of the ridge normally blow from a SW direc- ing to enter Horta under such conditions.
I tion. At the beginning and end of summer the fre- The direct route to l'onta Delgada (AN24B) leads
to WP AN244, ~ miles sou th of Penta da Garc;a,
I quency of gales is higher, as are SW winds.
On lepving the mainland with a fair northerly on the south coast of the island of Sao Miguel. Boats
I wind, boats using the Azores as a stopover on a coming from ports south of Lisbon may prefer to
i transatlantic passage and planning to call at Horta make their first Azorean landfall at Sao Miguel.
I (AN24A) rather than Penta Delgada (AN24B) There is a good new marina at Penta Delgada, the
·j should sail a course which passes north of Sao capital of the Azores, which has the best facilities
I Miguel. Such a course is recommended because of in the archipelago. Another good starting point for
the difficulty of leaving Pon ta Delgada should the a cruise among the islands is the island of Santa
I winds change later to SW. Maria, at the southeastern extremity of the arch-
I From WP AN241 off the South Channel in the ipelago, from where the other islands can be
I approaches to Lisbon, a direct course leads to WP reachei:I in logical succession. The alternative is to
AN243, SE of the island of Terceira. Depending start cruising the Azores from one of the furthest
I on weather conditions, from that point Horta can
be reached by sailing either north or south of the
islands, such as Graciosa, and, after visiting islands
in the central group, take one's leave from the
11 island of Pico. In strong SW winds it is better to Azores in Santa Maria. The two westernmost
111 stay north of Pico and, if the weather deteriorates, islands of Flores and Corvo are usually visited by
Iii one can seek shelter at Velas (38 '40.S'N, 28 '12'W), boats arriving from the west and their inclusion
JIJ
1ii 52
'·'
 AN20 ROUTES FROM PORTUGAL

in a cruise starting from the east is more difficult the marina entrance, a course should be set for WP
and less practical. AN245, 5 miles S of Cape Sagres. From there the
Some boats sailing from mainland Portugal to course is altered for one of the landfall points men-
the Azores take their leave from Vilamoura, on the tioned above.
Algarve coast. From WP AN242, one mile SW of
AN25 Portugal to Northern Europe

The prevailing northerly winds of summer, which Boats leaving from Lisbon should take the
ensure excellent sailing conditions for southbound Northern Channel so as to reach the open sea at
passages, make the task of reaching northern des- WP AN252, off Cabo Raso. The course then leads
tinations very difficult throughout the summer west of the Berlenga Islands through WP AN253
months. The easiest solution is to sail up the coast and on to WP AN254, some 25 miles NW of Cape
in easy stages by taking advantage of favourable Finiste.rre. From that point a direct course can be
breezes which may blow close inshore. Having set for WP AN256 off Lizard Point in the
reached Northern Portugal, one can wait for approaches to.Falmouth, a most convenient port
favourable conditions to cross the Bay of Biscay. of entry into the United Kingdom.
· The other alternative is to take an offshore tack Contrary winds, especially during summer, may
and try to make as much northing as possible until force one to break the initial section of this pas-
more favourable winds are met. North of latitude sage into st:iorter stages. In such a case a good
45.N westerly winds become increasingly pre- departure point from Northern Portugal is the
dominant, but towards the end of summer the fre- small port of Viana do Castelo. When leaving from
quency of SW gales also increases, so it is better there one should wait for favourable conditions
to plan this passage for the first half of summer. to cross the bar across the entrance. Having reached
The time to avoid, if at all possible, is the period the open sea, from WP AN255 a course can then
leading up to the autumn equinox as gales which be set for AN254 and, provided conditions con-
occur around this time can produce hazardous con- tinue to be right, across the Bay of Biscay into the
ditions in the Bay of Biscay. English Channel.

53
 ROU TES IN THE NORTH ATLA NTIC

AN30 ROUTES FROM GIBRALTAR

AN31 Gibraltar to Madeira 55
AN32 Gibraltar to Canary Islands 56
AN33 Gibraltar to Lesser Antilles 58 /
AN34 Gibraltar to Northern Europe 59
AN35 Gibraltar to Portugal 59
AN36 Gibraltar to Azores 60 /
AN37 Gibraltar to North America 61
AN38 Gibraltar to Atlantic Morocco 63
Gibraltar is described as the gateway to the opposite direction. Gibraltar is also a convenient
Mediterranean, although the opposite is equally place from which to visit neighbouring ports in
true as, for westbound boats, the Strait of North Africa, whether the colourful Tangiers in
Gibraltar is the gateway to the Atlantic. One of the Morocco or the two remaining Spanish possessions
most frequented transit ports for yachts in the of Mella and Ceuta.
world, Gibraltar is particularly busy in spring, As Gibraltar lies at the eastern end of the Strait
when boats make their way into the which bears its name, eastbound boats are Jess
Mediterranean, and autumn, when the end of the dependent on weather conditions than those
sailing season produces a similar movement in the intending to sail through the Strait to the Atlantic

40'W

•1

.....
AZORES

0 .
BERMUDA

••

I CAPE VERDE•~
ISLANDS

so•w 40'W
I AN30 Routes from Gibraltar
I
JI
 AN30 ROUTE S FROM GIBRALTAR

beyond. A favourable forecast is essential on leav- ting currents along Europa Point are never strong
ing Gibraltar as the Strait can turn into an insur- enough to pose serious problems. If not bound for
mountable obstacle if weather conditions are not one of the ports along the Spanish Costa de! Sol,
right. Ideally, westbound boats should wait for a it is better to stay offshore where the winds are usu-
Levanter or at least light westerly winds before leav- ally steadier. Mediterranean routes from
ing Gibraltar. Almost as important as the direction Gibraltar are described in chapter 22.
of the wind is the state of the tide and this should The weather in the immediate vicinity of
be played to one's advantage. If one leaves about Gibraltar can be very different from the weather
three hours after HW Gibraltar, the tide will be con- of the general area. In the southern part of the
trary for only the first hour. After the tide slack- Iberian peninsula from Cape St Vincent to
ens, by keeping to the Spanish side of the Strait, Gibraltar the winds are more variable in all months.
when the tide turns one should have a fair current The Portuguese trades are felt less in this area, and
at least as far as Tarifa. Because of the strong tidal in their absence there is an onshore SW or W sea
sets, one should avoid sailing too close to the breeze. Sailing conditions close to the Strait of
Spanish shore. In strong westerly winds, if one Gibraltar are affected by the geography of the
finds it impossible to make headway against them, Strait. The wind usually either blows in or out of
one can anchor in the lee of Tarifa to wait for a the Strait and can be quite strong at times. The
breals in the weather and a favourable tide. The strong easterly wind is called a Levanter and when
situation usually improves significantly once the this blows hard against the prevailing east sett"ing
Strait has been left behind and a course is set for current flowing through the Strait into the
either Madeira or the Canaries. If bound for Mediterranean, it creates a short sharp sea, which
Northern Europe, a direct course is rarely possi- can make it very difficult, and occasionally
ble since both winds and current along the impossible, to reach Gibraltar from the Atlantic.
Portuguese coast are normally contrary. If the The opposing Poniente, which is a strong W or SW
Portuguese trades are still blowing, it is better to wind, can make it even more difficult to sail in the
head offshore and favour the tack that makes most opposite direction, out of Gibraltar into the
northing. Atlantic. The Levanter occurs most frequently from
Going east from Gibraltar is usually easier, July to October and is associated with rain and
although it pays to wait for a favourable wester- reduced visibility. Also in summer the occasion-
ly wind. Timing one's departure to take advantage al small depression moves north from Morocco
of the tide is less important because the west set- towards Gibraltar.

AN31 Gibraltar to Madeira

55
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

Gibraltar should not be left in a strong westerly the NW point of Africa, should not be
wind as the wind reinforced by the permanent flow approached too closely because of the overfalls in
of water from the Atlantic into the Mediterranean its vicinity. A direct course leads to WP AN315 east
makes it almost impossible to beat one's way out of Ilheu de Fora, a rocky islet with a powerful light ,
of the Strait. An equally strong easterly wind blow- off the eastern extremity of Madeira. From there
ing against the current does not improve matters the course runs along the south coast of the island
much as it creates a short steep sea. Ideally to the capital Funchal. The alternative is to call first
Gibraltar should be left in light or easterly winds, at Porto Santo and sail to WP AN316 east of llheu
but if this is not possible, it is better to keep to the de Cima. Porto Santo should be approached with
edges of the Strait where the current is weaker. care, especially at night, as there are a number of
Detailed tactics for leaving Gibraltar are dangers off its eastern coast.
described at the beginning of this section. In day- During the summer months the steady
light and good visibility one may decide to tack Portuguese trades usually ensure favourable sail-
across to the African shore, where the current is ing conditions all the way to Madeira. At the begin-
weaker. Be aware of the large amount of shipping ning and end of summer, sailing conditions can
when crossing the traffic lanes and also to the fast be less pleasant and both calms and SW winds m}y
moving ferry from Algeciras to Tangiers. be encountered en route. Passages in May and
In favourable wind and tide conditions, the November are particularly vulnerable to th.is kind
course runs parallel to the Spanish coast. Taking of weather, but between June and early October
one's departure from WP AN310 an initial course the prevailing northerly winds should provide a
is set for WP AN311 off Punta Camera. Having left fast sail for most of the way. In strong SW winds,
the Bay of Gibraltar, the course is altered for WP one may be forced to abandon one's intention to
AN312 south of Tarifa light. The route continues call at Madeira and continue to the Canaries with-
on this course to keep out of the west going ship- out stopping. This course of action is taken every
ping lane. A course of 270 ' will take one to WP year by boats that have left either Northern Europe
AN313, which clears the shallows off Punta or the Mediterranean too late. As the small mari-
Paloma. From there a direct course can be set for na in Funchal gets extremely crowded in October
Madeira. As the shipping Janes converging on the and early November with boats stoppfng there on
Strait of Gibraltar have to be crossed at some point, their way to the Canaries, bypassing Madeira at
tacking across should only be done when Cape this time of year should be considered by anyone
Espartel can be cleared on that tack. The cape, at short of time.
 AN30 R OUTES FROM GIBRALTAR

AN32 Gibraltar to Canary Islands

Leaving Gibraltar with a favourable tide, one does waypoints, AN325 and AN326.
not need to go too dose to the Spanish coast. Setting For boats intending to make their first Canarian
course for WP AN321, south of Punta Camera,' landfall at Lanzarote, a course should be set for
avoids any dangers. When leaving the Bay of WP AN327 off the small island of Alegranza. The
Gibraltar, one should watch out for the fast ferry capital and main port on Lanzarote is Arrecife,
plying between Algeciras and Tangiers. As far as although better docking facilities will be found at
Tarlfa it is better to stay in the inshore lane and Puerto Calero five miles further down the coast.
steer for WP AN322 approximately 1 mile south If time permits, one should consider stopping first
of Tarifa light. This will keep one out of the west- at Graciosa, a small island north of Lanzarote,
going shipping lane. From there, a course of 270' which has a small but well protected port at La
leads to WP AN323 to dear the shallows off Punta Sociedad, on the north shore of the narrows sep-
Paloma. As one has to cross the shipping lanes, and arating Graciosa from Lanzarote.
if the winds are westerly, one should only tack For boats bound directly for Las Palmas and thus
when one is confident of clearing Cape Espartel approaching Gran Canaria from the north, the con-
on that tack. One should not go too close to this spicuous hump of La Isleta makes a perfect land-
cape as there are overfalls in the area. By setting fall. WP AN328 clears all dangers, including El
course for WP AN324 one stays clear of an area Roque rock off Punta El Nido. 2.5 miles further
of confused seas off Cape Espartel. Better condi- south is the entrance to Las Palrnas harbour, which
tions are usually found farther off the African coast in 1994 was being considerably enlarged. The east-
and therefore the course should stay outside the ern breakwater was being extended southwards
100 fathom line. This can be done by setting a and this is only shown on the latest charts.
course which passes through two intermediate Sailing conditions to the Canaries are normally

57
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

better than those enco1.1ntered on the way to northern quarter are still predominant. The pa&sage
Madeira. From June to September the prevailing to the Canaries should not be left too late in the sea-
northerlies and a favourable current usually pro- son, as strong SW winds with rough seas can be
vide excellent sailing conditions along this route. encountered on this route after the end of October.
In May and October the winds are less constant, Anyone intending to see more of Jhe Canaries
although their direction continues to be predom- should plan on stopping first in Lanzarote, which
inantly northerly. November has a higher incidence is the best island from which to start visiting the
of winds from other directions, but winds from the Canary Islands in a logical seq~ence.

AN33 Gibraltar to Lesser Antilles

This long passage is only done without calling too many risks, especially at the end of the sum-
either at Madeira or one of the Canary Islands by mer. If this passage is made during the summer
those in a great hurry, as both these island months, stations broadcasting early warnings of
groups lie close enough to the recommended route tropical depressions should be listened to regularly.
as to warrant a short stop. Directions as far as Cape As the trade wind belt lies further north during
Espartel are given in route AN31. the summer months, a more direct course can be
The best time for this passage is in the summer, sailed across the Atlantic than in winter. Between
but an Atlantic crossing during this time, which May and July the frequency of hurricanes is quite
is the hurricane season, cannot be recommended. low, b1.1t it increases after August, reaching a peak
Good conditions for a nonstop passage may also in September.
be encountered at the end of spring, beginning of During the winter months, steady NE winds will
summer (May or early June), when the chances of be found only jn lower latitudes, most probably
encountering a tropical storm en route are very low. south of latitude 25N. The route at such a time
The route a t such a time will be close to the great will pass between the Canaries and Madeira and,
circle course as favourable winds will be found depending on weather conditions, the strategy to
most of the way across. This would be the case also be employed V(ill be similar to the suggestions
during summer when, however, a crossing carries given f<;>r route ANSl (page 72).

58
 AN30 ROUTES FR OM GIBRALTAR

AN34 Gibraltar to Northern Europe

Directions to sail through the Strait of Gibraltar winds along the western shores of the Iberian
are given in routes AN31 and AN32. [f strong west- peninsula are the Portuguese trades w hich make
erly winds are encountered after the Strait has been the task of reaching any northern destination
negotiated, it is better to stay on the port tack and, extremely difficult. For those w ho are in a hurry
if conditions deteriorate, one may seek shelter in it is qetter to head immediately offshore by sail-
one of the ports or marinas along the northern ing on the tack that makes most northing.
shore. The marinas at Lagos and Vilamoura, on the Otherwise it might be easier to make short hops
Algarve coast, are convenient places in which to along the coast until better winds are found or Cape
wait for a change of weather. See also route AN35. Finisterre is passed. Westerly winds may not be
After the Strait and the shallows off Cape found until latitude 45 'N is reached. Occasionally
Trafalgar have been cleared, a course should be set in late summer SW winds reach gale force in the
for WP AN344, 5 miles WSW of Cape St Vincent. Bay of Biscay when conditions can be very rough,
From there the course runs roughly parallel to the so it is advisable to make this passage before the
Portuguese coast. During summer the prevailing m iddle of August.

AN35 Gibraltar to Portugal

59
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

Directions for negotiating the Strait of Gibraltar are the landfall buoy one mile SE of the river entrance.
given in routes AN31 and AN32. From WP If a strong Levrmter is blowing in the Strait of
AN353, which clears the shallows off Ponta Gibraltar, easterly winds will continue into the Bay
Paloma, set course for WP AN354 so as to stay out- of Cadiz, although of diminished strength.
side the shallows off Cape Trafalgar. From this point Otherwise, on summer days, there will be an alter-
the course becomes NNW and runs across the Bay nation of breezes, a sea breeze from the SW start-
of Cadiz through shallow waters that rarely ing around noon to be followed by a lighter land
exceed 60 feet. A hazard to watch out for along this breeze from the NW.
coast are the large tunny nets, which are supposed The Algarve coast has witnessed a huge devel-
to be buoyed and marked by a fishing boat, but opment in recent years and landmarks can be con-
often are not. For this reason it is not prudent to fusing. The entrance into Vilamoura marina is npt
sail too close inshore, especially at night. The trip easy to spot to those not familiar with the area,
can be broken at Mazagon, at the river entrance into but WP AN356 about one mile south of the
Huelva, from where Columbus left on his historic entrance, should help locate it. Boats bound for the
voyage to the New World in 1492. A new marina west coast of Portugal should set course for WP
is now operating at the river entrance from where AN357, 5 miles WSW of Cape St Vincent. From that
it is possible to visit the various sites associated 'with point strong northerly winds can be expected dur-
Columbus in Palos and the surrounding area. The ing summer, but as there is an abundance of good
entrance to the river is clearly marked by a light ports along the entire Portuguese coast this sec-
tower and the river is well buoyed. WP AN355 is tion can be easily covered in short hops.

AN36 Gibraltar to Azores

60
 AN30 ROUTES FROM GIBRALTAR

The passage benefits from favourable winds for have been experienced in that area. Boats intend-
at _least the first half, as the prevailing northerly ing to sail nonstop to Horta should set' a course
winds of summer are felt as far as 300 miles off for WP AN365, 10 miles N of Sao Miguel. Frpm
continental Europe and often further than that. At there the route passes north of Pico. If strong SW
some point an area of light winds or calms will be winds are encountered among the islands, one can
encountered, after which the winds will probably either seek shelter in a port on the north coast of
come from either W or SW. This will depend entire- Pico, such as Sao Roque, or sail towards Terceira,
ly on the position of the Azores high. The further where orte can wait for a change of weather at
NW this is situated from its normal position, the Angra do Hero\smo, on that island's south coast.
higher the likelihood of having favourable NE The direct route to·Ponta Delgada leads to WP
winds for most, or all, of the passage to the Azores. AN366, 3 miles south of Ponta da Gar~a, on the
Directions for negotiating the Strait of Gibraltar south coast of the island of Sao Miguel. Boats com-
are given in routes AN31 and AN32. If strong SW ing from ports south of Lisbon may prefer to make
winds are encountered west of the Strait it is bet- their first landfall there rather than further west.
ter to put into a port, such as Vilamoura (37"04'N, There is a good marina at Ponta Delgada, the cap-
8"07'W), and wait there for a change. Directions ital of the Azores, which has the best facilities in
will then be the same as for route AN35. If strong the archipelago. Another good starting point for
winds are encountered after passing Cape St a cruise among the islands is the island of Santa
Vincent, the area of the Gettysburg and Gorringe Maria, at the southeastern extremity of the arch-
Banks (36"30'N, 12·oo·w and 36"45'N, 11 "lO'W) ipelago, from where the other islands can be vis-
should be avoided as breaking or confused seas ited in logical succession.

AN37 Gibraltar to North America

_61
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

Waypointsi

The majority of boats bound for North America from early in the season because of the danger of ice.
the Mediterranean prefer to take the classic route Directions and waypoints as far as the western end
via the Canaries, which, although considerably of the Strait of Gibraltar are the same as those for
longer, has a higher proportion of favourable winds. route AN36. Having reached the open sea, the direct
The direct route (AN37A) has certain attractions, route across the Atlantic will depend entirely on
firstly because it can be done at the beginning of existing weather conditions, which will dictate
summer, and secondly because it can be much whether the Azores are left to port or starboard. A
speedier. The best time for this passage is at the route south of the Azores direct to Bermuda
beginning of summer, but if it is undertaken after (AN37D) has a certain attraction as the winds will
July, attention must be paid to the possibility of hur- · be met at a better angle once the area of prevailing
ricanes. This applies particularly to those sailing Sor SW winds is reached close to Bermuda. Boats
to ports in areas of the USA affected by tropical bound for Newfoundland and even Nova Scotia will
storms. On the other hand, boats bound for probably peel off this southern route sooner, but
Canadian ports, such as St John's in those heading for ports south of New York may find
Newfoundland, should avoid making the passage a stop in Bermuda too tempting to miss.

62
 AN30 ROUTES FROM GIBRALTAR

As the direct route passes close to the Azores, from that direction. In strong SW winds, the chan-
most boats make at least a brief stop there after nel between Pico and Faial, in the approaches to
the first 1000 miles at sea. Whether a stop in the Horta, can be affected by violent gusts. These, and
Azores is intended or not, directions for the route the north setting current, should be taken into
between Gibraltar and that area are given in routes account if attempting to enter Horta under such
AN24 (page 52) and AN36. If a stop in the Azores conditions. A last port in the Azores, where one
is c<:m sidered, from WP AN371 at the western end can seek shelter and wait for an improvement in
of the Strait of Gibraltar, the direct route to Pon ta the weather, is at Lajes, on the SE point of Flores,
Delgada (AN37B) leads to WP AN373, 3 miles where a new breakwater has greatly improved the
south of Pon ta da Garc;a, on the south coast of the protection of this port. From the Azores the voy-
island of Sao Miguel. Although Ponta Delgada is age may continue nonstop to one's destination.
closer to this route, and there is a good marina Those that have stopped in the Azores should
there, the traditional port of call remains Horta, be prepared to wait there until a good long term
on the island of Faial. The latter is probably a bet- forecast assures a safe and speedy passage for the
ter starting off point for the subsequent leg continuation of their voyage. Directions for the
across the Atlantic. routes from the Azores to the USA and Canada are
+f intending to sail nonstop to Horta (route given in AN138 and AN139 (page 149). Boats plan-
AN37C), from WP AN371 a course should be set ning to stop in Bermuda may be able to sail a direct
for WP AN374, SE of the island of Terceira. course from the Azores to WP AN375, east of the
Depending on weather condiiions, from that entrance into St George's Harbour. Such a direct
point Horta can be reached by sailing either north route from the Azores to Bermuda has the best
or south of the island of Pico. In strong SW winds chance of favourable winds. This is described in
it is better to stay north of Pico and, if the weath- detail in AN137(page148). The most likely winds
er deteriorates, one can seek shelter at Sao Roque, to be encountered on approaching Bermuda are
on the north coast of Pico, or at Velas, the main from the SW, but if favourable conditions persist
port on Sao Jorge. Terceira itself has a good har- it is best to bypass Bermuda altogether and sail
bour at Angra do Heroismo, although it is open nonstop to one's final destination.
to the south and should be avoided in strong winds

AN38 Gibraltar to Atlantic Morocco

63
 ---~=--- - - -

ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

With the exception of Tangiers, which is conve- Espartel the predominant features are the large
niently located on the south side of the Strait of Atlantic swell and the lack of natural harbours,
Gibraltar, most boat:> avoid calling at Moroccan with the notable exception of Mogador. A restrict-
ports, although those on the Atlantic coast could ed zone is in force between Rabat and
make convenient stops for boats sailing to the Mohamedia, and any boat straying within 12 miles
Canaries or West Africa. There are several reasons of tl1e coast may be chased away by Moroccan navy
I for this reluctance, the m ain ones being the com- vessels. Casablanca is the largest port a long this
I plicated formalities, bad pollution in the larger coast and, for the time being, has' the best repair
I ports, and frequent theft from visiting yachts. facilities. A fast developing port with adequate
'/
Facilities for sailing boats are also Jacking, facilities is Agadir, which is used as a base by a
/1 although the few yacht dubs are generally wel- large number of foreign fishing boats. A marina
Q coming. is under construction in Agadir and, when it is fin-
Tangiers, being used to receiving large numbers ished, it will be a convenient place to leave a boat
II
of visiting boats and thus having relatively easi- while visiting the interior of this i nteresting
er formalities, is often overcrowded. South of Cape country.

'j AN40 ROUTES FROM MADEIRA

'{
AN41 Madeira to Canary Islands 65
AN42 Madeira to Lesser Antilles 67
AN43 Madeira to Azores 67
AN44 Madeira to Northern Europe 68
AN45 Madeira to Portugal 68
AN46 Madeira to Gibraltar 69
Until not so Jong ago the only yachts that used to the ocean from west to east occasionally take a
visit Madeira were cruising boats on their way to more southerly track and affect the island, but their
the Canaries or Caribbean, and occasionally a few effect is less strong than in the A z ores. Dust haze,
racing boats from mainland Portugal. The situa- which reduces visibility, can occur when easter-
tion has changed as more boats spend the winter ly winds blow from the African continent.
in the Canaries and use Madeira as a convenient A small number of boats choose to ~tart their
stopover on their return voyage to the Med- Atlantic crossing in Madeira rather than take the
iterranean. The most frequented route, however, traditional route via the Canaries. Such a decision
remains that to the Canaries, which is at its busiest makes sense in late winter or spring when the NE
in October when hundreds of boats make their way trade winds reach further north and the route from
south as part of the annual migration to the Madeira to the Caribbean bypasses the Canaries
Caribbean. At this time Madeira is crowded with altogether. Madeira is also a good starting point
boats and the marina at Funchal can barely cope if one's West Indian destination is one of the more
with the amount of visitors. Funchal is best avoid- northern islands, such as Antigua or Virgins. The
ed at such times and a stop in neighbouring Porto transatlantic route d epends very much on access
Santo should be considered. to weather information to be able to know how
The prevailing summer winds are northeaster- long one should sail on a SW course before turn-
ly, but because of the height of Madeira, the wind ing west.
funnels around and can blow from the SW on the Northbound passages from Madeira are seldom
southern coast when it is NE offshore. The small- easy on account of the prevailing northerly
er island of Porto Santo is also high but it does not winds. Most boats bound for a port in NW Europe
block the NE wind which accelerates down the may prefer to make a detour to the A zores and stop
mountain blowing in gusts in its lee-_ In winter the in one of the easternmost is~ands, such as Santa
winds are more v ariable and come from all direc- Maria or Sao Miguel. If bound for mainland
tions . The North Atlantic fronts that move across Portugal one h as little choice and i£ the winds are
 AN40 RO UTES FROM M ADE IRA

40'N

f>.
~f>. f>.
AZORES

0
Santa Maria

AN40 Routes from Madeira

from the NE, as is most likely in summer, one must Gibraltar. If time permits one should wait in
be prepared to beat all the way. The same applies Madeira for a spell of SW winds, which normal-
to boats heading for Gibraltar and the ly occur when a depression passes to the north of
Mediterranean with the added complication that the island . Such conditions will ensure a fast pas-
the NE winds experienced offshore often turn into sage all the way into the Mediterranean.
easterlies as one approaches the Strait of

AN41 Madeira to Canary Islands

65
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

This is normally a fast downwind run, particularly the fishing harbour, some 3 miles north of the cap-
during summer. After the beginning of October, ital Santa Cruz.
although northerly winds are still most common, The course for Lanzarote (AN41C) passes at a
winds from other directions increase in frequen- safe distance to the NE of the Salvagem Islands.
cy. From November onwards strong SW winds The small island of Alegranza, north of
occur at times and rough seas are encountered Lanzarote, can be passed on either side by boats
between the two island groups. A favourable cur- going directly lo Arrecife. For those who prefer to
rent of approximately 1/2 knot is normally expe- stop first at Graciosa, landfall should be made on
rienced on this passage. the west side of the latter by setting course for WP
The direct route passes very close to the AN415 about 5 miles NW of Graciosa, before enter-
I Salvagem Islands, a group of uninhabited islands ing Estrecho del Rio, the channel separating
I.I I lying halfway to the Canaries and straddling the Graciosa from Lanzarote. Although not a port of
I 30th parallel. The course for Gran Canaria entry, boats may stop for a short time at La
(AN41A) passes between the two islands and, unless Sociedad, the main port and settlement on
sailing ·by in good light and weather, the course Graciosa, before proceeding to Arrecife, the cap-
should be altered to pass at a safe distance to the ital of Lanzarote, and clearing in there.
east of Salvagem Grande, such as WP AN411, as Those intending to stop in one of the Salvagem
there are a number of dangerous rocks close to the Islands must obtain a special permit, which is
islands. From there the route continues towards WP issued in Funchal by the Department of Fisheries
AN412 in the approaches to Las Palmas. within the Autonomous Government of Madeira.
The direct course for Tenerife (AN41B) passes In bad weather, yachts are allowed to anchor in
through WP AN413 at a distance of some 10 miles Enseada das Cagarras (30il8.3'N, 15'52.2'W) on the
west of Salvagem Pequena. Landfall is made at WP SW side of Salvagem Grande, but access ashore is
AN414, off Punta de Anaga, the NE point of only allowed to those in possession of a landing
,i Tenerife. From there, the course runs parallel to permit. There are wardens stationed on both islands
l the coast to the newly established marina inside and they can be contacted on VHF channel 16.
I'

1
i
,iJ
 AN40 R OUT ES FRO M M A DEIR A

AN42 Madeira to Lesser Antilles

Because of the strategic location of the Canaries lower latitudes, where the likelihood of finding
on the route to the Eastern Caribbean, only a small favourable winds is always higher. At the begin-
number of boats choose to sail there directly from ning of winter, however, the trade winds rarely
Madeira. Nevertheless, Madeira can make a good extend beyond latitude 20"N and if this is the case
starting point for such a transatlantic passage pro- one might as well stop in the Canaries as the course
vided one has access to a good weather picture of runs virtually through the archipelago. If only a
the North Atlantic which shows the northern lim- short stop in the Canaries is envisaged, one should
its of the NE trade winds. If these extend as far as choose one of the more westerly ports, such as
25 Nit is possible to lay a SW course from Madeira Santa Cruz de la Palma, which makes a better start-
to pass to the west of the Canary Islands. ing point for the subsequent transatlantic leg.
The waypoints suggested above are based on the Detailed routeing information for the transatlantic
traditional route which initially has a SW slant into passage is given in route AN51 (page 72).
AN43 Madeira to A zores
'
r
I
•I

I
,1
I

67
 ..':. -·- .
If
II RO UTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

I During summer, when the Portuguese trade harbour of Santa Maria, the most southeastern
winds reach as far south as Madeira, this will be Azorean island . The harbour provides good shel-
a close hauled passage, although the Azores can ter from all directions except the south.
normally be reached on one tack. If leaving from If times allows it, a visit to Porto Santo will pro-
Funchal, · the high island of Madeira normally vide a slightly better starting point. In such a case,
blocks northerly winds so that a light westerly from WP AN431, off Porto Santo's SW point, the
breeze will be felt until one reaches the end of the route passes on the weather side of Madeira
island. From Funchal, the course runs parallel to Grande. This should be passed at"'a safe distance
the coast as far as Ponta do Pargo, the western as in strong northerly winds its north coast is a dan-
extremity of the island. From WP AN432, off Ponta gerous lee shore. Landfall will be made at WP
do Pargo, a direct course leads to WP AN433 in· AN433, in the approaches to Vila do Porto.
the SE approaches to Vila do Porto, the main

AN44 Madeira to Northern Europe

A nonstop passage to the English Channel is dif- be sailed to Northern Europe. Having sailed
ficult to accomplish, particularly during the sum- around the eastern extremity of Madeira, a rhumb
mer months when the Portuguese trades will force line course, from WP AN442 off Ilheu de Fora to
one to take a long starboard tack. This will put the WP AN443 off Lizard Point in the approaches to
boat almost on a heading for the Azores. For this the English Channel, passes some 60 miles west
reason, some boats include the latter on their itin- of Cape Finisterre. Persistent northerly winds are
erary. ln such a case the same directions apply as a feature of summer and so this passage should
those for route AN43. be planned for middle or late spring when there
During spring, and occasionally also in summer, is a better chance of favourable winds.
a spell of SW winds m~y allow a direct course to

AN45 Madeira to Portugal

 AN40 ROUTES FROM MADEIRA

Mainland Portugal lies to windward of its offshore From WP AN451, east of Porto Santo, the direct
dependency for most of the year and therefore this course to Lisbon crosses an area of shallows in the
passage is best undertaken before the onset of the vicinity of the Gettysburg Seamount, which
NE winds of summer. At the beginning of sum- should be avoided in strong winds because of
mer, before they become fully established, these br~aking seas. Boats bound for Lisbon should set
winds blow in spells of a few days at a time, so it a course for WP AN452, dose to the entrance into
is wort):i waiting for a lull before leaving. A spate South Channel that leads through an area of shal-
of strong NE winds is sometimes followed by one lows at the mouth of the Tagus River. The
or two days of calms, when it may be possible to Portuguese capital lies approximately 8 miles
gain some useful mileage by motoring. The occa- upstream on the north shore of the river.
sional front, which may generate SW winds, can The direct course to Vilamoura also starts off
also be used to one's advantage. from WP AN451, off the east coast of Porto Santo,
Whether bound for .Lisbon (AN45A) or and leads to WP AN453, one mile SW of the
Vilamoura, on the Algarve coast (AN45B), Porto entrance into the marina.
Santo makes a better starting point than Funchal.

AN46 Madeira to Gibraltar

69
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

Directions for this route are similar to those for take over. A SW day breeze can then be expected,
AN45 with the added complication that any NE which usually springs up around noon and lasts
winds, which may have been experienced offshore, as far as the Strait of Gibraltar.
will become easterlies on approaching the Strait From WP AN461, east of Madeira, or WP AN462,
of Gibraltar. Ideally, this passage should be east of Porto Santo, a direct course leads to WP
undertaken in spring when the chances of SW AN463, some 5 miles NW of Cape Espartel, in the
winds are greater than during summer. approaches to the Strait of Gibraltar. Directions for
Occasionally, in summer, when strong NE winds negotiating the Strait are given in Routes AN16
blow offShore, once the longitude of Cape St and AN21 (pages 44 and 49).
Vincent has been passed, local weather conditions

ANSO ROUTES FROM THE CANARY ISLANDS

AN51 Canary Islands to Lesser Antilles 72
AN52 Canary Islands to Cape Verde Islands 74
AN53 Canary Islands to West Africa 75
AN54 Canary Islands to Bahamas 76
ANSS Canary Islands to Bermuda 77
AN56 Canary Islands to Azores 78
AN57 Canary Islands to Madeira 78
AN58 Canary Islands to Gibraltar 79
Sailing to the Canaries has never been considered chartering there. Every year more boats are seen
difficult as the prevailing northerly winds ensure cruising the islands and the facilities available to
a fast downwind passage from Europe or the them are constantly improving.
Mediterranean at most times of the year..This was For most boats the main destination on leaving
the main reason for their popularity in the past as the Canaries is the Caribbean. The time of depar-
a port of call for ships on the trade routes to Africa, ture from the Canaries is crucial, both for the con-
the Orient, and the Americas. The type of ship may ditions to be encountered en route and those
have changed with the passing of time but the rea- expected on the other side of the ocean. The hur-
sons remain the same for the 1000 or so cruising ricane season in the Caribbean in theory lasts about
boats which call at the Canaries every year. They six months, although the really dangerous peri-
arrive almost without exception from the north, od is August to October, with September the peak
the southbound passages being usually made at month for hurricanes. Most sailors plan to cruise
the end of summer or during autumn, for most the West Indian islands between December and
modern sailors treat the Canaries as a mere stag- April, which is not only the safest time of year but
ing post on their way to the Caribbean, and less also has the pleasantest weather, with little rain,
commonly to West Africa or South America. agreeable temperatures, and the trade winds blow-
However, this situation is gradually changing as ing steadily throughout the winter months.
more yachts spend longer cruising the Canaries, Therefore a late November or early December
while others are making their permanent base or d eparture from the Canaries suits most people' s
 AN50 ROUTE S FROM THE CANARY ISLANDS

4o•w 20•w

,,
AZORES

BERMU,DA
(!]

AN55
2894
AN54
3328

• LESSER ,,. ,
: ANTILLES AN51
2819
•
CAPE VERDE
ISLANDS

4-0' W w·w
ANSO Routes from tlie Canary Islands

plans and this is the time when the majority of track and reach eastwards as far south as latitude
boats leave the Canaries for their transatlantic pas- 40'N and even lower. As a consequence, SW or W
sage. An earlier departure is not recommended, winds are generated as far south as latitude 20 'N,
mainly because of the risk of a late hurricane, but and occasionally even further south. For those
also because the winter trades are seldom estab- unable to obtain up to date information on the
lished before the second half of November. From weather systems of the North Atlantic the best tac-
the end of November until April the NE trade tic is to make most of their crossing on the latitude
winds usually blow south of 20 'N, their average of their Caribbean destination, or even slighthly
strength gradually increasing during February and further north in the case of those boung for Antigua
March. Although winds continue t9 be or the Virgin Islands.
favourable, summer passages are not recom- Although the majority of boats leaving the
mended for reasons of safety as the risk of hurri- Canaries are bound for the Caribbean, usually
canes is too high. As most passages take place in direct or less commonly via the Cape Verdes, there
late November or early December, the tradition- are some who first spend some time cruising West
al practice has been to reach lower latitudes as Africa before setting off across the Atlantic. The
quickly as possible thereby maximising the best time to sail south to either the Cape Verdes
chances of finding the trade winds. Another good or West Africa is winter, when favourable winds
reason to make sou thing on leaving the Canaries will be found all the way to Senegal. The Canaries
is to be out of the influence of the Atlantic lows. are also a useful springboard for those sailing to
Low pressure systems moving across the. Atlantic Brazil or other destinations in South America.
in winter occasionally deviate from their usual NE Sailing from the Canaries to the Mediterranean or

71
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

Northern Europe is a more difficult undertaking are different winds in the lee of the islands com-
on account of the prevailing northerlies that make pared to the coasts exposed to the trade winds.
passages in the opposite direction so easy. The best When the NE trades are blowing strongly, an
route for a return voyage to Northern Europe is opposing wind usually blows on the other side of
via Madeira and possibly the Azores. A detour to the island, varying in strength with the strength
Madeira ought be considered by those whose des- of the trade wind. A funnelling effect is also felt
tination is Gibraltar or ports on the south coast of along the coasts of some of the mountainous
the Iberian peninsula. Although the prevailing islands and the trades can be ac~elerated by up to
winds are from NE, winds from SW are not uncom- 15 knots in places.
mon at the end of spring or beginning of summer, The Atlantic lows rarely come as far south as the
when most boats bound for the Mediterranean Canaries, although small lows do develop near the
make this passage. The suggested stop in Madeira islands themselves and move northeast towards
or Porto Santo allows one to wait there for a Gibraltar or east towards Africa. Gales are rare,
favourable change of weather. although occasionally these local depressions bring
The prevailing winds in the Canaries are NE strong Sor SW winds. In summer months a strong
throughout the year, being strongest in July and easterly wind can blow hot from Africa, the air
August and lightest in October and November. The being laden with dust, which reduces visibility con-
high volcanic islands cause some local variations siderably.
in both wind direction and strength. As a rule there

ANS! Canary Islands to Lesser Antilles

7?
 AN50 R OUTES FROM THE CANARY ISLANDS

This classic trade wind route has been plied by an tip of the island, from where the course should be
- enormous variety of vessels in the 500 years since set for WP AN514.,
Christopher Columbus himseli set sail from the Every book that has been written on transatlantic .
Canary Islands to expand the limits of the known voyaging has something to say about the optimum
world. Although a lot has been learnt about pre- route for a trade wind crossing, although very lit-
vailing winds and weather forecasting in the inter- tle can be added to what Columbus found out him-
vening years, the routeing suggestions made by self. The first concern is to move as soon as possible
Columbus as a result of his four voyages to the out of the region of calms and variable winds which
Caribbean are still valid and can hardly be surround the Canary Islands. With a bit of luck a
improved upon. His two fastest passages took 21 northerly wind may spring up; otherwise one must
days, an excellent time even by today's standards, be prepared to wait or motor. The old advice to
following a track very close to the optimum route make for a point at 25 'N'25 'W needs some qual-
for the time of year. On both those voyages, a SW ification as the winter trades seldom blow con-
course was sailed by the fleet until steady trade sistently as far north as latitude 25 "N, so this
winds were found in the vicinity of latitude 20'N suggestion should only be followed in summer
and only then was the cou rse changed to the west. time. A more valid and often repeated suggestion
This essential rule of not setting a course.for the was to sail SSW for 1000 miles on leaving the
d esired destination until well.inside the trade wind Canaries to pass between 200 and 300 miles north-
belt has been followed to advantage by all navi- west of the Cape Verde Islands before turning west.
gators since. This suggestion to pass close to the Cape Verdes
On leaving Las Palmas it is usually best to sail still makes sense as steady ENE winds are usual-
due south before altering course to SW. The only ly found in their latitude. Nevertheless the added
time w hen it may pay to go around the north of mileage of such a detour must also be taken into
Gran Canaria is in SW winds and then only if it account. A more direct route, which crosses lati-
is possible to pass the SE extremity of Tenerife on tude 20'N in about 30'W (WP AN514) and latitude
one tack. The alternative is to stay on the port tack 15°N in ~bout 40'W (WP AN515), will probably
and pass north of Tenerife. and then south of La find the trad e winds slightly later but has the
Palma. However, these are unusual conditions advantage of being shorter. Unfortunately there
since over 90 per cent of the time winds are from is no hard and fast rule, as weather can vary from
the northerly quarter and therefore a southerly one year to another and in some years successful
course, as recommended, should be taken. fast passages have been made by boats taking the
Having left Las Palmas at WP AN510, one mile SSE shortest route across.
of the harbour, one should not be tempted to turn The direction of the NE trade winds becomes
SW too soon as the wind shadow of the island can more easterly as one mov.e s west, and they usu-
extend as far as 20 miles. A convenient point to ally includ e a southern component as summer
make for is WP AN511. Depending on weather con- approaches. Their strength is not very consistent
ditions, from there a course can be set to WP either and the average force 4 mentioned in some
AN514. This was the traditional turning point, from publications is simply an average and nothing else.
where sailing boats used to set course for the island Although gale force winds are rarely experienced
of destination. With better weather information at in winter, except in squalls, between Dei::ember and
their disposal, modem navigators should only use March the trades can blow at force 6 for days on
this waypoint as a point of reference and make for end accompanied by a correspondingly high
it only if such action is justified by existing weath- swell. The swell itseli is only regular and steady
er conditions. in direction if the wind has been blowing from the
Boats l~aving from other ports in the Canaries ' same quarter over a longer period, othe!wise a
have the choice of passing south 9r north of El cross swell is not uncommon on this route, with
Hierro. If leaving from Los Cristianos, on the south ·a wind swell being superimposed over another
coast of Tenerife, from WP AN512 a course can be swell generated by some storm many thousands
set for WP AN513 and thence for WP AN514. of miles away. In some years the uncomfortable
Another popular departure port is Santa Cruz on swell has caused more complaints among transat-
the island of La Palma. On leaving that port, a lantic voyagers than the strength of wind, or the
southerly course should be taken to the southern lack of it. It would appear that practically no voy-

73
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

age is spared at least one calm period on this run, on the !\TE coast of St Lucia. Having sailed along
such calms lasting from a few hours to several days. the north coast of St Lucia, the marina in Rodney
They are usually followed by a burst of trade winds Bay makes an excellent landfall where entry for-
heralded by a procession of squalls. This route has malities can be completed.
the benefit of both the Canary Current and North
AN517 Martinique, 3 miles SSE of Martinique.
Equatorial Current which set SW and Wat an aver-
The nearest place to complete formalities is Cul
age rate of 1/2 knot. Their constancy, however, is
de Sac du Marin, a small p~pt on the SE tip of
not too reliable, although their direction is.
the island. This is more convenient than the cap-
The above directions apply with small adjust-
ital Fort de France, which is another 25 miles up
ments to all destinations in the Lesser Antilles, from
the coast.
Trinidad in the south to Antigua in the north. After
the trade winds have been found the best course AN518 Barbados, 9 miles east of South Point, the
can be set for any particular island and the last few southern extremity of Barbados. The Shallows,
hundred miles will probably be sailed on its lat- lying SE of that point, should be avoided in
itude. The route to the Virgin Islands passes so heavy weather as the seas break over them.
close to Antigua that it is advisable to make land- Fornialities are completed in the commercial port
fall there before proceeding. The same recom- of Bridgetown, north of Carlisle Bay, the rec-
mendation applies in the case of any islands to ommended anchorage.
leeward of Antigua.
AN519 Antigua SE, 2 miles SSE of English
The most popular transatlantic landfalls in the
Harbour on the SE coast of Antigua.
Eastern Caribbean are:
Formalities can be completed in the nearby his-
AN516 St Lucia, 4 miles east of Cape Marquis, toric port of English Harbour.

AN52 Canary Islands to Cape Verde Islands

This route is sailed by boats using the Cape Verde so to refill their fuel tanks. Unless one is dangerously
Islands as an intermediate stage either in their low on fuel, or determined to visit the islands, such
transatlantic voyage or en route to West Africa. As a stop in the Cape Verdes makes little sense as much
one of the recommended routes from the Canaries less fuel will be needed to reach the Caribbean than
to the Lesser Antilles passes NW of these islands, will have been used up to get from the c;anaries to
a detour is easily accomplished. Although only basic the latitude of the Cape Verdes. Rather than burn
provisions are available in Mindelo, on Sao Vicente, up additional fuel to reach them, it is better to ration
the main island of the group, the Cape Verde Islands one's consumption earlier and sail the most fuel effi-
make a good starting point for the transatlantic voy- cient cour5e from the Canaries.
age because they lie in the trade wind belt and fast Those who intend to stop in one of the Cape Verde
passages have been made along their latitude. Most Islands should set a direct course from WP AN521,
boats which break their Atlantic crossing there do south of Gran Canaria, to WP A."J522, north of Sao

74
 ANSO ROUTES FROM THE C>\NARY ISLANDS

Vicente. During the winter months, from the mid- lS'N, even at the height of the SW monsoon. The
dle of December or early January to April, the NE strongest and most consistent north winds
trades blow strongly between the Canary and Cape between the two island groups have been record-
Verde Islands. Fast passages are aided by the SW ed in summer, between July.and September, when
setting Canary Current which merges with the as much as 90 per cent of the winds are from the
North Equatorial Current in the vicinity of the north.
islands. The visibility near the islands is often poor, There are three official ports of entry: Mindelo
either because of haze or the dust-laden harmat- (16'53'N, 25'00'W), Praia (14 "54'N, 23'31'W), and Sal
tan which blows here in winter. In October and (16 '45'N, 23 'OO'W). The first two ports have better
November, winds between the two island groups provisions and facilities, whereas Sal has an inter-
are less constant in direction, although the NE national airport, which is its main attraction for
trades gradually become established as one those needing to make a crew change or fly home
approaches the Cape Verde Islands. The area south in an emergency. To visit any place in the Cape Verde
of the Cape Verde Islands is subject to the SW mon- Islands outside of the above ports, one needs spe-
soon from June to October, although the frequency cial written permission from immigration obtain-
of southe!ly winds is very low north of latitude able when clearing in at one of those ports.

AN53 Canary Islands to West Africa

An increasing number of boa ts sail to West Africa, winds blow consistently as far as the latitude of
some of them en route to Brazil, others just mak- Dakar, but south of latitude 13 'N they become
ing a detour before crossing the Atlantic to the increasiiigly light, and below latitude 10"N may
Caribbean. The situation for cruising boats is grad- become variable. South of the latitude of Dakar, the
ually improving in this region which has many winds are affected by the SW monsoon of summer
attractions, as both officials and local people are when SW and W winds predominate. The current
getting used to the influx of foreign sailors. along the African coast; as far as Dakar, always sets
,.
The best time to make the passage south is in win- to the south. Further south, a contrary current may
ter, when favourable winds will be found all along be experienced during the SW monsoon.
the coasts of Mauritania and Senegal. The NE trade Boats leaving from Las Palmas should make for

75
I.
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

WP AN531 south of Gran Canaria, from where a stopping at Dakar bound for Banjul should stay
course should be set for WP AN532, 60 miles off well off Cap Vert and, having passed it, set a course
Cap Blanc. If not intending to stop in Mauritania, for WP AN534 NW off Bald Cape in the
it is recommended to stay well offshore to avoid approaches to Banjul, the capital and only port of
not only the shallow wa ters and large number of entry into Gambia. As the harbour entrance is
fishing boats but also the risk of being stopped·and encumbered by shoals, entering the harbour at
possibly boarded by a Mauritanian naval vessel night is not recommended. The anchorage used by
patrolling the disputed area of former Spanish visiting yachts is in position 13'2°6.S'N, 16 "34.S'W,
Sahara. Those who intend to call at Nouadhibou, but as there have been many reports of theft from
the main port of Mauritania, should approach the yachts one should either take adequate safety mea-
coast with great caution and attempt to make land- sures or find another anchorage. Permission to take
fall NW of Cap Blanc at daybreak so as to reach the boat up the river Gambia, which is navigable
port in daylight. If continuing to Senegal, St Louis, for about 200 miles, can be obtained from the har-
at the extreme north of that country, on the bor- bour master in Banjul.
der with Mauritania, has been used as a port of All rivers in this area are navigable and even
entry into Senegal, but the entrance has a dan- keeled boats can travel far inland. A poP.ular river
gerous breaking bar and is therefore difficult to with visiting yachts is the Casaman~e, which
enter in a sailing yacht. belongs to Senegal and lies south of the Gambian
Boats bound for Dakar should sail the same route enclave. The main town on the Casamance is
as far as WP AN532 from where the next WP Ziguinchor (12 "35'N, 16 "16.S'W), located some 50
AN533 is approximately 10 miles off Cap Vert, miles upriver. Boats must clear in first at Dakar
north of Dakar. The area should be approached and, at the time of writing, could not clear into
with caution on account of the heavy traffic. Cap Senegal at Ziguinchor. Officials occasionally
Vert, a traditional graveyard for ships, should also check papers at Elinkine, some 30 miles down-
be given a wide berth. Boats entering Dakar must stream of Ziguinchor and a main tourist centre
pass south and east of Goree Island. The recom- (12"30'N, 16 "40'W). Also navigable is the river
mended anchorage for yachts is in position Saloum, with many cruising attractions in its lower
14 °42.7'N, 17"25.S'W. reaches. French charts for these West African
If sailing from Dakar to Banjul, the time of arrival countries are reported to be better than the
at the entrance into the river Gambia should be British or American charts.
planned to coincide with a rising tide. Boats not

AN54 Canary Islands to Bahamas

With the exception of Christopher Columbus, who to the Bahamas. In 1992, on the occasion of the
sailed this route in 1492 and thereby established quincentenary of that historic voyage, this tradi-
a permanent link between the Old and New tional route was sailed by many boats, their crews
Worlds, few modem boa ts attempt to sail nonstop commemorating in this way the deeds of one of
 ANSO RO UTES FROM THE CANARY ISLANDS

the greatest navigators in history. The route can Whichever course is chosen for the Atlantic
be useful for boats intending to sail to the south- crossing itself, on approachlng the islands of the
ern USA directly from the Canaries. Eastern Caribbean, one should attempt not to sail
Being unaware of the hurricane season in the yet below WP AN541 so as to stay well clear of such
to be discovered lands he was heading for, islands as Anguila and Sombrero, which have
Columbus made his passage from the Canaries in claimed too many ships in the past. From there,
September and was extremely fortunate in having the course should stay well offshore to pass the
good weather throughout, or the history of the Turks and Caicos group at a safe d istance before
world might have been very different. Armed with closing with San Salvador, which is marked by a
modern knowledge about the behaviour of West powerful light. After landfall is made at WP
Indian hurricanes, the passage should not be AN542, 5 miles SE of Sandy Point, the SW
attempted before the end of November. For the extremity of San Salvador, the west of the island
transatlantic section of the voyage directions are sim- should be passed at a safe distance before
ilar to those detailed in route AN51. However, approaching the main settlement at Cockburn
depending on weather conditions, it may not be nec- Town. Entry formalities can be completed there or
essary to dip as far south as do the boats going to one mile further north at Riding Rock Marina,
islands in the Southern Caribbean. If the trade winds which has a difficult entrance with a maximum
extend as far north as 20 'N, or even further, it should depth of 7 ft at hlgh tide.
be possible to lay a fairly direct course acro.s s.

AN55 Canary Islands to Bermuda

The number of boats sailing nonstop from the starts moving north, the trade wind belt does the
Canaries to Bermuda is relatively smaJI, probably same and, in spring or early summer, a passage
because the best sailing conditions on this route to Bermuda can be done between latitudes 20 ' and
coincide with the start of the hurricane season in 25 'N. Constant NE and later E winds will be found
the Western Atlantic. The greatest frequency of hur- along these latitudes for most of the transatlantic
ricanes in Bermuda itself has been recorded from voyage. The temptation should be resisted to alter
mid-August to mid-October, June and July being course for Bermuda too soon as this leads into an
considered relatively safe months. area of variable winds. One should therefore aim
For anyone in a hurry to return to the USA, this for WP AN551 so that Bermuda is approached from
direct route has much to recommend it and fast the SSE. For the remaining distance the winds
passages have been recorded. If the voyage is made should be from the SW, which are the prevailing
during the safe season, from November to April, winds in Bermuda during summer. Landfall
the winter trades are so far south that a detour to should be made at WP AN552 east of St David's
find them would take the track so close to the Head, in the approaches to the Town Cut which
Lesser AntiJles that it would be just as easy to make leads into St George's Harbour, where entry for-
a stop there. As the sun changes its declination and malities are completed.

77
j~f

H ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLA N TI C

l
Ii
Ii
,,

The most likely winds in summer will be from capital of the Azores, leads so close to the island
theNE making this a dose hauled passage, espe- of Santa Maria, that one may decide to stop first
cially if one leaves from one of the more western at its main port of Vila do Porto. In such a case,
islands such as La Palma. A contrary current of up course should be set for WP AN562, 2 miles south
to 1 /2 knot may also be experienced. Although the of that harbour. An alternative destination is Horta,
Azores are considered to be outside the tropical on the island of Faial. In this case, landfall can be
storms area, very rarely such storms have reached made at WP AN563, 3 miles SE of the port of Horta.
the archipelago. Such occurrences are well forecast If leaving the Canaries from one of the islands
so that adequate precautions can be taken. east of Tenerife, the voyage can be interrupted in
Taking as a departure point WP AN561 NE of Madeira from where the same directions apply as
La Palma, the direct course to Ponta Delgada, the for route AN43 (page 67).

AN57 Canary Islands to Madeira

 AN50 ROUTES FROM THE CANARY ISLANDS

As the prevailing winds of summer are from the which lie approximately halfway between the two
northern quarter, this passage is best undertaken island groups. As landing in these islands is pro-
either in the spring or autumn. Ideally, one hibited without a permit and the area surround-
should wait for a spell of southerly winds before ing them has many dangers, it is best to pass them
leaving the Canaries. At any time, but particularly at a safe distance. Jn an emergency it is possible
during summer, it may be easier to sail first to to seek shelter in the anchorage at Cagarras Bay
Lanzarote from where the winds will be at a bet- (30 "08.3'N, 15"52.2'W), on the SW side of
ter angle for the subsequent leg to Madeira. In such Salvagem Grande, where the resident caretaker is
a case, the best departure point from the Canaries based. From Salvagem Grande the route for
is the small island of Graciosa, north of Madeira must avoid a number of dangers north
0

Lanzarote. of the island before a direct course can be set for

The direct Toute from both Tenerife and Gran Funchal.
Canaria passes close to the Salvagem Islands,

AN58 Canary Islands to Gibraltar

I
!
.!

The recommended time to make this passage is in If weather conditions alloo/ a relatively direct
late spring before the onset of the NE winds of sum- route to be sailed from Las Palmas, a course should
mer. If persistent northerly winds are met after be set for an intermediate WP AN582. From there
leaving the Canaries, it may be necessary to break a new course should be set to WP AN583, some 5
the voyage in Madeira and stop at either Funchal miles NW of Cape Espartel, in the approa.c hes to
or Porto Santo and wait for the weather to the Strait of Gibraltar. Directions for negotiating
change. One may also wait for such a change at the Strait are given in routes AN16 and AN21
the anchorage on Salvagern Grande (see route (pages 44 and 49).
AN57).

79
 . .;.;. ·, -· ·- ·.

RO UTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

AN60 ROUTES FROM THE CAPE VERDE

ISLANDS AND WEST AFRICA
AN61 Cape Verde Islands to Azores 81
AN62 Cape Verde Islands to Lesser Antilles 82
AN63 West Africa to Azores 82
AN64 West Africa to Lesser Antilles 83 ....
AN65 West Africa to Northern Brazil and Guyanas 84
The former Portuguese colony of the Cape Verde more blow most of the time. As the convergence
Islands is a group of small islands 200 miles off zone moves to its most northerly position in sum-
the coast of West Africa which used to be a busy mer months there are more variable winds, with
coaling station frequented by intercontinental fresh southerlies in August and September, the time
steamers. They have been rediscovered as a con- of the SW monsoon.
venient stopover for those wishing to shorten their In neighbouring West Africa, the strong NE
transatlantic passage to the Caribbean or intend- trades blowing across continental Africa between
ing to make their landfall in Brazil. As the Cape December and February can produce harmattan
Verdes lie in the NE trade wind belt, the prevail- winds. These often create a dust haze and cover-
ing wind is NE most of the year, being stronger the boat and sails in reddish dust. Distinguished
from February to June, when winds of25 knots or by a yellow sky and a blurred horizon, this haze

60'W 40' W

40'N

BERMUDA
a

• LESSER
: ANTILLES AN62
2085

40°W 2o·w
AN60 Routes from the Cape Verde Islands and West Africa
 AN60 ROUTES FROM THE CAPE VERDE ISLANDS AND WEST AFRICA

not only reduces visibility to a few hundred yards, grounds were French sailors, who were aided by
but even when the visibility is several miles it the fact that some of the countries are former
makes it very difficult to estimate distances at sea French colonies and French is widely spoken. The
until land or an object is seen. Therefore great care best time to visit the area is during the winter
must be taken when approaching the Cape Verde months, from December to April, when temper-
Islands during these conditions. atures are pleasant and there is little rain. The sum-
For a taste of Africa, some of the best cruising mer months are hot, humid, and wet.
on that continent is to be found in Senegal and Transatlantic passages starting from either
Gambia with the possibility of navigating the larg- West Africa or the Cape Verdes do not present
er rivers in this area. Although cruising in West major problems as the winds are usually
Africa is usually incorporated into a longer voy- favourable. More difficulties are experienced by
age by those making a more southerly Atlantic boats intending to return to Europe; they have to
crossing to Brazil, the number of cruising boats is beat against the prevailing NE winds and most
steadily increasing. As in some other parts of the break the trip in the Azores.
world, the first to discover these new cruising

AN61 Cape Verde Islands to Azores

Northerly winds blow on average 80 per cent of leaving the Cape Verdes. Winds in the latter part
the time on the route between these island of the passage are greatly influenced by the posi-
groups. Therefore the optimum time for this pas- tion of the Azores high. Being able to obtain up
sage is late spring or early summer when the pro- to date weather information can be a great bonus
portion of NE winds is higher than at other times as it helps one choose the more favourable tack.
and, depending on the type of boat, one may be There are several destinations in the Azores, such
able to lay the Azores on one tack. An additional as Ponta Delgada, the capital of the archipelago.
bonus may be provided by a depression inter- The route passes so closely to the island of Santa
secting one's track in higher latitudes, and Maria, that one may decide to stop first at its main
although the resulting SW winds may cause port of Vila do Porto. Because of the NE winds,
uncomfortable conditions at least they will be which will have been encountered en route, a more
blowing from a favourable direction. SW winds likely landfall will be further west, such as at Horta
are quite rare in the latitude of the Cape Verdes, on the .island of Faial, or even Lajes on the west-
although they do occur during summer so it may ernmost island of Flores.
I be worth waiting for a spell of SW winds before

L
I ...
.1. .
81
 ... ·::

ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~---------
AN62 Cape Verde Islands to Lesser Antilles

Columbus was first to see the attraction of these are usually logged by boats starting of{from the
islands as a better springboard for a trade wind Cape Verdes provided their course does not dip
passage across the Atlantic than the Canaries and too far south into an area where the trade winds
he set off on his third voyage to the Caribbean from become less constant. A great circle course is usu-
here. The advantage of this route is not only that ally the best route to take across. More detailed
the actual transatlantic passage is shorter but also directions for the transatlantic passage are given
that the Cape Verdes are situated for most of the in route AN51 (page 72).
year in the heart of the NE trades. Fast passages

AN63 West Africa to Azores

82
l
..
 AN60 ROUTES FROM THE CAPE VERDE ISLANDS AND WEST AFRICA

As explained in route AN61, NE winds predom- winds can be expected in the vicinity of the Azores.
inate in the area south of the Azores and passages There are several destinations in the Azores, such
should therefore be timed for a period when the as Ponta Delgada, the capital of the archipelago.
proportion of such winds is lowest. Starting off As the route passes closely to the island of Santa
from one of the West African ports, as opposed to Maria, a first stop could be made at its main port
the Cape Verdes, has the obvious advantage of a of Vila do Porto. Because of the NE winds earlier
better angle in relation to the prevailing winds, so in the passage, a more likely landfall will be fur-
unless one has a very good reason to stop in the ther west, such as at Horta on the island of Faial.
Cape Verdes, the valuable easting should not be The timing of this passage may also depend on
lost. the destination after the Azores. It is not advisable
· If leaving from Dakar, the recommended route to attempt this passage before April to give the
passes east of the Cape Verdes, and should the need strong NE winds of winter a chance to diminish
arise, the island of Sal (16 '45'N, 23 'OO'W) is in the in strength. Scmth of latitude 15 'N they are
most convenient position for a landfall. It can be replaced in summer by the SW monsoon, which
assumed that the trade winds will be lost around blows between Senegal and the Cape Verde
25 'N from where it should be easier to make the Islands from June to October. The start of the SW
necessary northing. ·North of latitude 30'N the monsoon is therefore the best time to leave West
winds and weather are very much dependent on Africa for the Azores as it would ensure go(\d
the position of the Azores high. If this lies further winds at least for the early part of .the voyage.
south than its usual seasonal position, light

AN64 West Africa to Lesser Antilles

Whether leaving from a port in Senegal or the which is not unusual durfug the summer months,
Gambia, steady favourable winds will be encoun- it is recommended to stay on the starboard tack.
tered on this route throughout the winter months. As one moves offshore, the winds will veer, allow-
If winds are westerly on leaving continental Africa, ing one to pass the Cape Verdes without tacking.

83
 1

RO UTES I N THE NORTH ATLANTIC

:111
lr~I
From the Cape Verdes onwards thls route is sim-
ilar to route AN62. As the Cape Verdes are so close
lantic passage. Sailing too close to the southern
limit of the NE trades should be avoided as there
to the direct route it may be convenient to stop is a danger of being pushed by a branch of the
there before proceeding west. If leaving from main- North Equatorial Current towards the doldrums
land Africa direct, especially from more southern and an area of less steady winds. More details con-
ports, attention must be paid to the currents both cerning the Atlantic crossing are given in route
in the vicinity of the coast and during the transat- AN51 (page 72).
'
.•

AN65 West Africa to Northern Brazil and Guyanas

This passage is best undertaken during winter the strong tides.

when the NE trade winds reach further south. This route is often sailed by boats heading for
If leaving from a port south of the river Gambia, Belem and the Amazon River. Although such a des-
a NW course should be sailed first to avoid an area tination would make this into a transequatorial
of light and variable winds close to the equator. route, in order to ensure better conditions during
If leaving from Senegal, the recommended route the crossing the latter should be done north of the
passes south of the Cape Verde Islands. In both equator. Knowing the position pf the ITCZ,
cases, a course should be set for WP AN653. This shown on satellite pictures obtained by weather-
intermediate waypoint is suggested to avoid the fax, is essential in such a case so as to minimise
effects of a contrary current which has been the time spent under its influence. Very slow pas-
observed south of lO"N. If the port of destination sages with violent squalls and a contrary current
lies south of this latitude, the course can be set have been recorded during summer. The ma"in rea-
for it once the recommended waypoint has been son for crossing at such a time is to arrive in
passed. The North Equatorial Current will give a Amazonia at the start of the dry season (July).
boost along most of this route. A strong current The three former Guyanas, French (Cayenne),
sets northwards along the coast of South America Dutch (Suriname), and British Guyana attract a
and this must be taken into account when small number of cruising boats. Entry formalities
making landfall. Dangerous shallow areas extend in French Guyana are completed at Degrad des
off the coast, especially near river mouths. If enter- Cannes. The port of entry for Suriname is
ing any of these rivers, attention must be paid to Paramaribo, approximately 13 miles up the

84
 AN 7 0 ROUTE S FRO M T HE L ES SER A NTILL ES

Suriname River, where boats now clear in at the three is Guyana itself, where the only official p ort
new harbour, Nieu Haffen. The least visited of the of entry is its capital Georgetown.

AN70 ROUTES FROM THE LESSER ANTILLES

AN71 Lesser A ntilles to Venezuela 87
AN72 Lesser Antilles to ABC Islands 87
AN73 Lesser Antilles to Colombia 88
AN74 Lesser Antilles to Panama 89
AN75 Lesser Antilles to Greater Antilles 90
AN76 Lesser A ntilles to Baham as 91
AN77 Lesser-A:ntifles. to Nerth America 92
AN78 Lesser A ntilles to Bermuda 94
AN79 Lesser Antilles to Azores 95

The Windward and Leeward Islands continue to continue to be one of the most fascinating desti-
be the most popular cruising destination in the nations in the area. The main advantage of cruis-
North Atlantic and, although commonly referred ing along the northern coast of South America in
to as the Caribbean, their correct name is the Lesser easy stages is 'that the area is rarely affected by trop-
Antilles. The majority of sailors, whether coming ical storms. Occasionally, however, ·a hurricane
from Europe or North America, usually spend a does reach Venezuela or the SW part of the
season cruising the islands before embarking on Caribbean, so if possible even this area should be
the return voyage home. The greatest exodus takes avoided during summer, from the end of July until
place between the middle of April and the end of the end of October.
May, when most boats leave either for Bermuda Although most sailors bound for the US east
• or directly for the Azores. The rou te to Bermuda
is used both by boats sailing to the east coast of
coast take their leave from the Eastern Caribbean
in one of the northern islands, such as Antigua,
North America and by Europeans returning St Martin, or one of the Virgins, a less frequented
home. The direct route to the Azores, without call- route to the USA is one which crosses the
ing at Bermuda, has been gaining in popularity in Caribbean Sea. Such a sou thern route has certain
recent years as it shortens the distance by sever- attractions for anyone bound for Florida or one of
al hundred miles, even if favourable winds are the the southern states. Leaving from one of the south-
exception rather than the rule on this direct route ern islands in the Eastern Caribbean, such as St
which crosses both the Horse Latitudes and the Lucia, the route stays south of Puerto Rico as far
infamous Sargasso Sea. as the Mona Passage from where it continues north
Much more wind is experienced by those head- of Hispaniola and on to the Bahamas._The other,
ing across the Caribbean Sea proper, most of whom probably more attractive, alternative is to take the
are bound for the Panama Canal. If this passage offshore route south of all the Greater Antilles, with
is made in winter, when the trade winds are at their possible stops in Jamaica, Grand Cayman, or
strongest, large seas can be expected on the way Cuba. Such a route is described in detail in AN83,
to Panama. The situation improves with the and although it originates in the Virgins, condi-
approach of summer and passages in April and tions would be similar if one left from one of the
May are more comfortable. Rather than sail islands to the south.
directly to Panama, many boats now cross the One of the main attractions of the Lesser
C<)ribbean Sea in shorter stages by calling at the Antilles is their weather. During winter months
offshore islands of Venezuela, the Dutch islands the NE trades blow with regularity and both day
of Aruba, Bonaire and Curac;ao, and also and night temperatures are pleasantly warm. The
Colombia. In Panama itself, the islands of San Blas average temperature rarely varies from 26- 28"C

85
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLA N TIC

20' N

AN70 Routes from the Lesser Antilles

throughout the year. In late summer and autumn, Occasionally the weather is interrupted by an
when the trades ease up, the threat of hurricanes Easterly Wave, a low pressure trough, which moves
spoils this perfection. The number of boats that westward and can develop into a hurricane.
carry on cruising during this period is relatively Whenever the wind shifts to the north during the
small because of the fear of being caught out by summer months, a stiff blow can be expected. West
a hurricane. Although not recommended, it is pos- Indian hurricanes usually form about 800 miles to
sible to cruise, provided some basic precautions the east of Barbados and track north and west.
are observed. From the middle of December until Hurricanes are more frequent in the more north-
the end of April, the trad e winds blow between ern Leeward Islands than in the Windward
NE and ENE, usually at a constant 15-20 knots. Islands lying further south, and rarely strike the
Occasionally these increase to 25-30 knots for a few most southerly islands such as Grenada. The like-
days and can have stronger gusts, especially in late lihood of experiencing such a storm is less the fur-
January and early February. As summer ther south and east one is at the height of the .
approaches the wind tends to veer SE and even hurricane season. A common path is for hurricanes
S, gradually returning to the E and NE towards to pass about the latitude of Guadeloupe or fur-
the end of the year. In summer months the winds ther north and then move along the Leeward
are lighter, from 12-15 knots in June through to Islands before turning north. The hurricane sea-
September. This is the rainy season, particularly son is from June to November, with the greatest
from August into November. number occurring in September. Very rarely a hur-
ricane strikes in May or December.

86
 AN70 ROUTES FROM THE LESSER ANTILLES

AN71 Lesser Antilles to Venezuela

· This relatively short passage benefits from Boats leaving from Grenada normally sail
favourable winds throughout the year. directly to Pampatar, on the SE coast of Margarita
Sometimes in winter, between January and Island, the nearest official port of entry. The route
March, when the trade winds blow strongly, con- passes dangerously close to Los Testigos, a group
ditions can be rough. Better conditions are expe- of low islands surrounded by shallows and reefs,
rienced at the change of seasons when winds which should be given a wide berth unless plan-
continue to be favourable, but are usually lighter ning to stop there. More dangers will be passed
than in winter. On all westbound passages on the way to Margarita, such 'as the low island
allowance should be made for the strong of La Sola. So this p assage, although short,
Equatorial Current which can set westward at rates should be treated with due caution.
of up to 2 knots.

f; AN72 Lesser Antilles to ABC Islands

The former Dutch colonies off the coast of from Grenada, from WP AN721, outside St
Venezuela are easily reached from any of the Lesser George, a course should be set for WP AN722 to
Antilles as both wind and current are in one's pass at a safe distance north of Los Roques islands
favour virtually throughout the year. If coming off Venezuela.

,. 87
~.':
~ ~-
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

Approaching Bonaire from the north, Bonaire can try can be obtained.
be passed on either side. Although sailing down Formalities in Curac;ao can be completed in the
the west side will save a few miles, the strong con- capital Willemstad. Contact the Port Authority on
trary current will cancel any advantage. Boats com- arrival on VHF channel 12 or 14 for docking
ing from the east should stay south of the island instructions. Yachts may also clear at the marina
and go straight to Kralendijk to complete for- in Spanish Water (12'09'N, 68.17'W).
malities. The customs dock is the northernmost Aruba Port Control should be contacted on VHF
dock in the commercial harbour. It is also possi- channel 16 when entering for b~rthing and clear-
ble to clear in at Bonaire Marina. Bonaire has a ance instructions. ··
Venezuelan Consulate where visas for that coun-

AN73 Lesser Antilles to Colombia

A successful anti-drug campaign in the early 1990s on all Caribbean routes, especially during the win-
has made it possible once again to include ter months. From AN734 the course can be altered
Colombia in one's cruising plans, and a large num- to WP AN735 in the approaches to the port of
ber of visiting boats are stopping in Colombia, espe- Cartagena. The area should be approached with
cially in the attractive city of Cartagena. caution because of the dangers in the approaches
Directions for sailing to Colombia are similar to to Cartagena. The entrance through Boca Grande
routes AN71 and AN74. From WP AN732, 28 miles should not be attempted as it is badly silted. The
north of Punta Galinas on Guajira Peninsula, the dredged entrance is now Boca Chica, identified by
recommended route leads to WPs AN733 and a landfall buoy, close to the end of Isla de Tierra
AN734. Both points are just outside the 1000 fath- Bomba. An 8 mile long channel leads northward
om line where there are relatively less rough seas, through the shallow Bahia de Cartagena to the com-
although both strong winds and high seas are a rule mercial port and two marinas.

88
 AN70 ROUTES FROM THE LESSER ANTILLES

AN74 Lesser Antilles t o Panama

This can be a very rough passage, confirmed by do, or sailing nonstop to Panama, WP AN742, 28
the fact that many experienced sailors describe miles north of Punta Galinas on Guajira
their passage across the Caribbean Sea perhaps as Peninsula allows the course to be set just outside
the roughest part of their voyage around the world. the 1000 fathom line where relatively less rough
This is usually the case at the height of the trade seas can be expected. From there, a direct course
wind season, when the constant easterly winds pile leads to WP AN743, about IO miles N of Punta
up the water in the western part of the Caribbean Manzanillo and 30 miles from the Panama Canal
making sea conditions hazardous. Many boats have entrance. The latter is reached by altering course
f been knocked down or pooped by the steep fol- for WP AN744 which is the landfall buoy, approx-
lowing seas, while others have been lost on the imately 3 miles N of the entrance into the port of
coast of Colombia after having been set off course Cristobal. Traffic Control should be contacted on
by the strong current. VHF Channel 12, although small boats may enter
Although direct passages to Panama cross an: if they proceed carefully. Traffic lights control the
area which is rarely affected by hurricanes, this pas- entrance through the breakwaters and small
sage should not be done between July and boats are advised to keep as close as possible to
October when the ,r isk of tropical storms is high- the sides. See page 489 for detailed instructions
est. The best times are either in November- concerning Panama entry and transit procedure.
December, when the trades are not yet blowing at When planning this passage across the
full strength, or in April-May, when the strength Caribbean Sea it is well worth considering a stop
of the winter trades starts to diminish. The in either Venezuela or the offlying A"BC islands,
months of January to March, although free of hur- most of which are situated outside the hurricane
ricanes, are also the period of the strongest belt. The advantage of such a stop is that the voy-
trades, when conditions in the western part of the age towards Panama can be continued at any time
Caribbean can become uncomfortable, or occa- of the year, and with sufficient care even during
sionally even dangerous, for small boats. Best con- the hurricane season, as the route from Aruba to
ditions can therefore be expected at either the Panama lies to the south of the area affected by
beginning or the end of the winter season. tropical storms. Another suggested stop is in the
Boats sailing to Panama nonstop should keep at San Blas Islands, which belong to Panama, The port
a safe distance from the Colombian coast to avoid of entry is Porvenir (9 '34'N, 78'57'W). As
the rougher seas associated with thqse shallow described in AN73, the voyage can also be inter-
waters. Whether stopping in Aruba, as many boats rupted at Cartagena, in Colombia.

89
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

AN75 Lesser Antilles to Greater Antilles

Not such a popular cruising destination as the threatened by hurricanes, these large islands affect
Lesser Antilles, the large islands of Cuba, local weather .conditions considerably due to their
Hispaniola, Puerto Rico, and Jamaica are mainly height and position. Normally the winds along the
visited by yachts en route to other places. From coasts moderate at night as cooled air flows off the
islands south of Antigua~ direct offshore routes lead hills and out to sea. This land breeze can be quite
across the Caribbean Sea to the south coasts of all strong at night off all the islands, so as to coun-
the Greater Antilles. Ports on the north coasts of teract the trade winds completely and give calm
all these islands can be reached in easy stages if conditions. In winter the prevailing NE trades can
setting off from the Virgin Islands. The north coast become more easterly along northern coasts.
of Hispaniola, islands in the Turks and Caicos, as During this period the islands are affected by
well as some of the Bahamas, are best reached northers, which bring strong N or more often NW
through the Mona Passage. winds and cold temperatures to the north and west
While experiencing the typical Caribbean coasts of the islands. These winds come without
weather pattern of winters dominated by the NE much warning and often out of a clear sky,
trades, punctuated by northers, and summers although some indication may be the wind veer-

90
 AN70 ROUTES FROM THE LESSER ANTILLES

ing gradually to S and SW. In summer the trade Hispaniola. Boats intending to stop on the west
winds have a more southerly component and coast of puerto Rico are warned that the official
winds tend to be much lighter, the sea and land port of entry is Mayaguez (18 "12'N, 67"07'W) and
breezes being prominent. Thundery squalls are not Boqueron. All boats, including those flying the
common over the whole area, especially in the late US flag, must stop at the former to clear in. A con-
afternoon close to land. Some of the most violent venient port of entry into the Dominican Republic
squalls in the Caribbean, short but sharp with light- is Samana, on the north coast of Hispaniola.
ning and heavy rain, occur off the south coast of Favourable conditions are experienced on
Cuba. Because the high islands block the passage westbound routes, which stay south of the
of N winds, line squalls are more associated with islands, at almost any time of the year, especial-
the northern coasts of Hispaniola and Cuba. ly if bound for ports on the south coast of
Jamaica is a little more sheltered than the other Hispaniola. Boats sailing this route (AN75B)
islands and has Jess seasonal change, the winds should set a course for WP AN753, off Saona island,
being generally lighter and more variable. The at the SE point of Hispaniola, and then alter course
Greater Antilles are in the middle of the hurricane for either La Romana or Santo Domingo.
belt and hurricanes accelerating through the Boats bound for Jamaica and beyond (AN75C)
Caribbean frequently hit the shores of these should make for WP AN754, off the small island
islands on their curved path northward. Their east- of Alta Vela, south of Hispaniola, where tho.se
ern shores are more frequen'tly affected than the intending to call at the Jamaican capital Kingston
western shores. should alter course for WP AN755. Boats bound
When coming from any of the islands in the for ports on the north coast of Jamaica should steer
Eastern Caribbean, set course for WP AN751, 10 for WP AN756, off Northeast Point, and then make
miles south of Caho Rojo, the SW extremity of for their port of destination. Finally, boats bound
Puerto Rico. To pass through the Mona Passage for Cuba (AN75D) should alter course from
(Route AN75A), alter course for WP AN752 so as AN754 for WP AN757, off Cape Tiburon, from
to stay clear of the shallows, and rough seas where it is a clear run to Santiago de Cuba, the
associated with them, east of Cape Engano on nearest Cuban port of entry to this route.

fi AN76 Lesser Antilles to Bahamas

I'
i
!

In winter, this route benefits from both height of the winter trades, fair, if strong winds,
favourable winds and current. The offshore pas- can be expected as well as the favourable Antilles
~age can be made at any time outside of the hur- Current. Light winds and occasional calms can be
ricane season. Between December and April, at the expected at the change of seasons, especially in

91
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

May. The route can be affected by depressions pass- a wide berth to avoid the reefs surrounding it.
ing to the north with resulting NW winds. As bo th Although Abrams Bay, the main settlement on the
the Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico are situated on south coast of the island, is not an official port of
or very close to the direct route from the Eastern entry, boats are allowed to stop there provided they
Caribbean to the Bahamas, most boats stop there complete formalities in the first official port of
before continuing their voyage. If stopping in the entry. The nearest is Cockburn Town on the island
Virgin Islands, directions for the onward passage of San Salvador. If continuing on the offshore route,
are given in route ANBS (page 101). course for the latter should nqt be set until one is
For boats leaving Antigua on a nonstop passage well clear of Samana Cay, a low unlit island lying
to the Bahamas, from WP AN761, off the SW of between Mayaguana and San Salvador. Fr.o m WP
Antigua the initial course passes NE of Nevis, St AN764 the course should be altered for WP AN765
Kitts, and St Eustatius to WP AN762, halfway east of Samana then for WP AN766.
between St Barts and Saba. From there a new course After landfall is made at WP AN766, 5 miles SE
should be set for WP AN763 to stay clear of of Sandy Point, the SW extremity of San Salvador,
Anegada and the many dangers surrounding it. the west of the island should be passed at a safe
The course then stays well offshore to pass out- distance before approachlng the main settlement
side all dangers. The Southern Bahamas can be at Cockburn Town. Entry formalities can be com-
reached via several deep water passes, all of which pleted there or one mile further north at Riding
are subject to strong currents as indeed is the entire Rock Marina, which has a difficult entrance with
area of the Bahamas. The route follows a NW direc- a maximum depth of 7 ft at high tide. The GPS lat-
tion to WP AN764 off Caicos Passage. The near- itude of the entrance channel into the small mari-
est island to clear into the Bahamas is na has been reported as 24 "03.4'N. The marina
Mayaguana, whose eastern point should be given management will answer calls on VHF c;hannel 6.

AN77 Lesser Antilles to North America

92
iiiii~-------------------------- - - · ··---

AN70 ROUTES FROM THE LESSER ANTILLES

·i
I
!

The recommended time for this passage is anhe Bermuda's only port of entry. The entrance is dif-
end of the winter sailing season in the Caribbean. ficult to negotiate in the dark and those unfamil-
At such times the winds usually have a southern iar with it should avoid arriving or at least using
component. If a direct course is sailed to ports it at night.
south of C~e Hatteras, favourable winds can be For boats bound for ports south of Cape
expected a' far as the northern limit of the trade Hatteras a detour via Bermuda makes little sense.
winds. Occasionally southerly winds last right There are two routes which can be sailed to reach
through the zone of calms that extends between any of those ports, either by a direct offshore route
latitudes 25'N and 30'N. North of this zone the (AN77B) or an indirect route passing close to the
winds are variable, with a predominance of Sand Bahamas (AN77C). Although the direct route
SW winds. The danger of a blustery winter (AN77B) appears to be shorter, it is not necessar-
norther is minimal after the middle of April. The ily.the faster as it cuts diagonally across the zone
temptation of a ride in the Gulf Stream should be of calms that will be found north of latitude 25 '.
resisted if this passage is made early in the sea- Such a direct offshore route should only be
son to avoid being caught by a late norther. This attempted if favourable weather conditions are
route is not recommended after the end of June likely to be encountered. In this case, from WP
because of the increased likelihood of hurricanes. AN773 a course may be set for the port of desti-
Summer passages should be avoided as the nation. The suggested alternative (AN77C) is to
tracks of past hurricanes almost coincide with the follow a NW course to windward of both Turks
direct northbound route. and Caicos and the Bahamas. From Great Abaco
For destinations north of Cape Hatteras as far the route turns north and picks up the Gulf Stream.
as Nova Scotia (AN77A), a stopover in Bermuda Both winds and current are favourable along most
has certain attractions. In fact very few boats sail of this route. Boats bound for ports in Northern
nonstop from the Eastern Caribbean to ports east Florida should continue to WP 775 before alter-
of New York without stopping in Bermuda. ing course for their destination.
Details for such a route are given in AN78 and A direct passage along any of the above routes
AN121 (pages 94 and 135). Boats leaving from should not be attempted during the winter
English Harbour can leave Antigua either to port months when a slower cruise through the
or starboard. The second alternative is more com- Bahamas to Florida is to be preferred and the US
fortable for the start of the voyage and so a course can be reached in a more leisurely way. For boats
should be set to sail west parallel to Antigua's bound for South Florida there are three alterna-
south coast to WP AN771 before altering course tives. Between April and June the most direi:t route
for WP AN772. The course can then be set for WP passes outside Turks and Caicos as well as the
AN773 to pass west of Barbuda and stay well clear Southern Bahamas as far as Great Abaco. From
of Anguilla and associated dangers. From there a there the route goes through the NE and NW
direct course leads to WP AN774, one mile east of Providence Channels and crosses the Gulf Stream
St David's Head in the approaches to the Town Cut to Florida. The other two alternatives can be used
which leads into St George's Harbour. This is at any time between November and June,

93
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

although they cannot be regarded as offshore pas- Rico, Hispaniola, and Cuba. The high risk of hur-
sages because both consist of island hopping, either ricanes must be taken into account if any of these
right through the Turks and Caicos as well as the inshore routes is sailed in summer.
Bahamas, or along the northern shores of Puerto

AN78 Lesser Antilles to Bermuda

The favoured point of departure for this route is alternative is more comfortable for the start of the
Antigua's English Harbour, where boats take their voyage and so a course should be set to sail west
leave from the Lesser Antilles and head north for parallel to Antigua's south coast to WP AN781
Bermuda as part of a return trip either to Europe before altering course for WP AN782. The course
or North America. This normally happens at the can then be set for WP AN783 to pass west of
end of the winter season, when most boats that Barbuda and stay well clear of Anguilla and asso-
have been cruising the Eastern Caribbean con- ciated dangers. From there, a direct course leads
gregate in or around English Harbour for the annu- to WP AN784, one mile east of St David's Head
al Antigua Sailing Week. in the approaches to the Town Cut which leads into
A departure from Antigua to Bermuda puts a St George's Harbour. This is Bermuda's only port
boat more to windward than a departure from the of entry. The entrance is difficult to negotiate in
Virgin Islands or Puerto Rico, as described in route the dark and those unfamiliar with it should avoid
AN88 (page 105). The better slant puts one onto arriving or at least using it at n ight.
a close reach as far as the northern limit of the trade For those who are determined to make good time
winds, which at the optimum time for this passage to Bermuda there is no alternative but to motor
can be carried to latitude 26 "Nor even 28 'N. The through the calms that may be encountered and
winds from late April to the middle of June are this is definitely advisable later in the season
mostly E to SE for the first half of this passage, because of the risk of hurricanes. This route is not
becoming lighter farther north. Light southerly recommended after the end of June because of the
winds are sometimes carried right through the increased likelihood of hurricanes. Passages
Horse Latitudes, but calms are the rule not the along this route are d efinitely discouraged after
exception in the region of the Sargasso Sea. If con- July as the tracks of past hurricanes almost coin-
stant SE winds are carried through, the weather cide with the direct course to Bermuda, passing
remains clear, otherwise it is cloudy and overcast. north of the Virgin Islands and running between
Boats leaving from English Harbour can leave the US east coast and Bermuda. Tropical depres-
Antigua either to port or starboard. The second sions become more frequent after the beginning

94
 AN70 RO UTES FROM THE LESSER ANTILLES

of July and even if they do not generate strong and SW winds on the way to Bermuda is higher,
winds, the weather in their vicinity is very unset- but so also is the risk of a late hurricane.
tled with heavy rain. If such a depression forms Fortunately the best time for this route is also the
close to the northern extremity of the Lesser most convenient as it coincides with the end of the
Antilles, contrary winds can be expected on the safe cruising season in the Caribbean, Antigua
way to Bermuda. Week, and optimum weather for a subsequent pas-
This passage can also be done towards the end sage to either Europe.or North America.
of the hurricane season, when the frequency of S

AN79 Lesser Antilles to Azores

For many years yacht captains were not prepared this is the tactic preferred by most of those who
to challenge the accepted wisdom that a return voy- take this route. With a bit of luck, winds on the
age from the Caribbean to Europe should only be other side of the Horse Latitudes may turn out to
attempted along the classic route that passes be favourable. If this occurs, some people are
through Bermuda and the Azores. What started tempted to bypass the Azores altogether and carry
as a devil-may-care route used mostly by deliv- on nonstop to Gibraltar, if bound for the
ery crews and skippers of charter boats in a hurry Mediterranean.
to return to the Mediterranean at the end of the The optimum time for this passage is between
season in the Caribbean, is now attracting cruis- May and July, although most boats sail this route
ing boats as well. As the route via Bermuda is at in May. April is a little too early since the frequency
least 500 miles loriger than the great circle route · of gales in the Atlantic is still high. After July the
from Antigua to Horta, and one cannot even be frequency of hurricanes increases, making all pas-
sure of fair winds for half that voyage via sages to or from the Caribbean a hazardous affair.
Bermuda, many prefer to stay in warmer weath- If a summer passage is considered, the Caribbean
er and hope for the best. should only be left with a reasonable long term fore-
On leaving Antigua, or any other of the Lesser cast. If no tropical depression is seen to be form-
Antilles, a NE course is set, which should be pos- ing, there is a fairly good chance of not being
sible to achieve because the trade winds are most- overtaken by the resulting storm. Taking as a depar-
ly south of east when this passage is usually made, ture point WP AN791, five miles east of Antigua' s
in May or June. The chances of SE winds increas- English Harbour, the great circle route is joined
es as one moves north until the belt of calms and immediately unless one has good reason to believe
light winds is reached which separates the trade that a different course may have a better chance of
winds from the westerlies of higher latitudes. This favourable winds. If NE winds make it impossible
is the time when a powerful engine and a good to sail the great circle course, initially one should
reserve of fuel make up for the lack of wind and favour the tack which makes most northing.

95
ROUT ES IN THE NORTH ATLANT I C

The most popular landfall in the Azores con- The recently improved port of Lajes, on the west-
tinues to be Horta, on the island of Faial, where ernmost island of Flores, offers the possibility of
there is a good marina and entry formalities can clearing into the Azores at a point from where it
be completed. To reach Horta, make landfall at WP is easier to visit most other islands. Having made
AN792, 3 miles SW of Faial and then sail along the landfall at WP AN793, 3 miles SW of Flores, the
south coast of the island before turning north at island's south coast is followed to Lajes.
the conspicuous Mount Guia.

AN80 ROUTES FROM THE VIRGIN ISLANDS

AN81 Virgin Islands to Panama 97
AN82 Virgin Islands to Jamaica 98
AN83 Virgin Islands to the Gulf of Mexico 99
AN84 Virgin Islands to Turks & Caicos 101
ANSS Virgin Islands to Bahamas 101
AN86 Virgin Islands to Florida 103
AN87 Virgin Islands to North America 103
AN88 Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico to Bermuda 105
AN89 Virgin Islands to Azores 106

')) BERMUDA

To the Azores

ANBO Routes from the Virgin Islands

91\
 AN80 ROUTES FROM THE VIRGIN ISLA NDS

There are several routes fanning out from the Virgin Virgins at the end of their Caribbean cruise and
Islands, particularly from St Thomas, whose use the Virgins as a convenient springboard for the
excellent facilities are a great attraction to anyone continuation of their voyage, most commonly to
planning to set off on a long ocean passage. ~e Bermuda and home, and occasfonally to the
main exodus occurs at the end of the winter sea- Bahamas and Florida.
son as boats make their way north, usually to These small islands to the east of Puerto Rico are
Bermuda, either on their way home to North an extremely popular cruising ground, enjoying
America or back to Europe. Because of their strate- very similar weather conditions to the Lesser .
gic position at the point where. the Greater Antilles. The prevailing wind tends to be easter-
Antilles give way to their lesser sisters, the ly, the trade winds being north of east in winter
Virgins are also a favourite starting point for cruis- and south of east in summer. The trades are
es in the area. Most US boats bound for the Eastern stronger in winter months, around 20 knots, gust-
Caribbean make their first landfall in the Virgins, ing occasionally to over 30 knots. Northers can also
from where they start making their way south affect the islands in winter, although not so fre-
through the chain of the Lesser Antilles. Some come quently nor so strongly as in other areas, such as
back for their return passage home, but most carry the Bahamas. The Virgin Islands lie in the hurri-
on their clockwise circuit of the Caribbean rim. In cane area and they can be affected by tropical
contrast, most European boats arrive in the storms every year.

AN81 Virgin Islands to Panama

A downwind trip at all times, this passage diag- the exception that for those who start off from the
onally across the Caribbean Sea should not be Virgin Islands, the recommended stop in the ABC
undertaken during the peak months of the hurri- Islands or Venezuela is not applicable unless one
cane season, between July and October. Another wishes to spend some time cruising there.
period to be avoided is at the height of the winter Boats setting off from St Thomas on the direct
trades, between January and the middle of March, route to Panama leave Vieques Island to starboard
when stroI)g winds and high seas are the rule in and take their departure from the Virgins at WP
the Caribbean Sea. Reference should be made to AN811, 10 miles SE of Vieques. Those who prefer
route AN74 (page 89) as directions are similar, with to call first at San Juan, Puerto Rico, take a route

97
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLA NTIC

along the north coast of Puerto Rico to its west- if they proceed carefully. Traffic lights control the
ern extremity and reach the Caribbean Sea entrance through the breakwaters and small
through the Mona Passage. From WP AN812, 5 boats are advised to keep as close as possible to
miles NNW of Cape Borinquen, a course can be the sides. See page 489 for detailed instructions
set through the Mona Passage to WP AN813, ESE concerning entry and transit procedure.
of Mona Island. Unless stopping in San Juan, the Most boats leave the Virgins for Panama in win-
detour around the north of Puerto Rico should be ter and all those who have done this passage in
avoided as it can be windless at the end of w in- February complain about the rough conditions in
ter when the island blocks the winds. the Caribbean Sea. A later start, when the winter
Whichever route is chosen, be it south or north trades have lost some of their power, might be
of Puerto Rico, from those waypoints AN811 or preferable, although this may be too late for those
AN813 a clear course leads right across the planning to continue their voyage along the Pacific
Caribbean Sea to WP AN814 about 10 miles N of coast of Central America and Mexico. For those
Punta Manzanilla and 30 miles from the Panama who are bound for the islands of the South Pacific
Canal entrance. The latter is reached by altering an early start from the Virgins is not essential, as
course for WP AN815 which is the landfall buoy the seasons there are the opposite to what they are
3 miles N of the entrance into the port of in the Caribbean and a later passage to Panama
Cristobal. Traffic Control should be contacted on in April or early May is acceptable.
VHF channel 12, although small boats may enter

AN82 Virgin Islands to Jamaica

98
 ANSO ROUTES FROM THE VIRGIN ISLANDS

The direct route from St Thomas (AN82A) leaves entry. At the western extremity of Jamaica Hes
Vieques Island to starboard, and takes its depar- Montego Bay (18'28'N, 77'56'W), also a port of
ture from WP AN821, 10 miles SE of Vieques. entry and a convenient port of departure for west-
Course is then set for WP AN822 to stay well clear bound boats.
of Puerto Rico. Those who prefer to call first at San An alternative route (AN82C) stays north of both
Juan, Puerto Rico, will reach Mona Passage by sail- Puerto Rico and Hispaniola and uses the
ing along the north coast of Puerto Rico to its west- Windward Passage to regain the Caribbean Sea.
ern extremity (AN82B). From WP AN823, 5 miles No waypoints are listed as this route entails main-
NNW of Cape Borinquen, a course can be set ly coastal cruising. The ad vantage of the direct
through the Mona Passage to WP AN824, ESE of routes described earlier is the certainty of better
Mona Island. Both routes will then set course for winds, whereas by keeping to the north of the large
WP AN825, 10 miles south of Isla Alta Vela, off the islands, the trade winds are blocked and one may
southern tip of Hispaniola. From WP AN825 those have to rely on coastal breezes. This is particularly
intending to call at the Jamaican capital Kingston the case in late spring and early summer when the
should alter course for WP AN826 off Plumb Point trade winds have a southerly component and there-
in the approaches to Kingston. Boats bound for fore Caribbean passages have a much better chance
ports on the north coast of Jamaica should steer of favourable winds.
for WP AN827, off Northeast Point, and then make As with most trans-Caribbean passages, the best
for their port of destination. If bound for the Gulf time is the transition months of April-May,
of Mexico, one of the ports on the north coast of before the start of the hurricane season, or
Jamaica will probably be preferable. From WP November, at the start of the safe sailing season.
AN827 a course can·be set for either Port Antonio Generally, favourable winds and currents can be
or Ocho Rios, both of which are official ports of expected along the offshore routes described above.

AN83 Virgin Islands to the Gulf of Mexico

I . 99
.I ~-
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLA NTIC

This is a convenient route for boats sailing to the Puerto Rico and the Mona Passage and join the off-
southern states bordering on the Gulf of Mexico shore route at WP835 south of Hispaniola.
as it is more direct and Jess difficult than a cross- Boats bound for ports on the north side of the
ing of the Bahamas. The route between the Virgins Gulf of Mexico, such as New Orleans, may prefer
and Jamaica is similar to route AN82 and runs par- a route which stays north of all the Greater Antilles.
allel to the south coasts of Puerto Rico and The one distinct disadvantage of this route is the
Hispaniola. The route then continues north of contrary Gulf Stream that will have to be faced
Jamaica. If a stop in Jamaica is not intended, from north of Cuba. From the navigational point of view,
WP AN836, off Jamaica's northeast point, a course the sou thern route across the Caribbean Sea, as
is set f01 WP AN837, N of Galina Point. The route described above, is easier and also benefits from
then continues in a NW direction and passes both better winds and a favourable current for
between Little and Grand Cayman to WP AN838. almost its entire length.
The route passes so close to Grand Cayman that The best time for a passage along either route
a stop in Georgetown may be considered. If stop- is the transition months of April-May, before the
ping in Georgetown, contact Port Security on VHF hurricane season, or November before the onset
channel 16, which is monitored permanently. From of winter northers which may be felt west of
Grand Cayman, the route continues towards the Jamaica and can seriously affect weather in the Gulf
Yucatan Channel and WP AN839, off Cuba's Cape of Mexico. Northbound boats occasionally wait for
San Antonio. Route AN83B lists the waypoints for favourable conditions to cross the Gulf of Mexico
those preferring to sail along the north coast of at Isla Mujeres (21 "lS'N, 86 "45.S'W).

100
 AN80 ROUTES FROM THE VIRGIN ISLANDS

AN84 Virgin Islands to Turks & Caicos

There is a choice of two routes for this passage. The AN842, 12 miles NE of Grand Turk. The course is
offshore route AN84A leaves all banks (Navidad, altered there to enter Turks Passage and make for
Silver, and Mouchoir) to port and keeps well clear Cockburn Town, the main settlement and port of
of all dangers. Route AN84B stays south of the entry on Grand Turk. Alternatively, one may pre-
banks and runs closer to Puerto Rico. The offshore fer to cross over to Cockburn Harbour, on South
route is both easier to navigate and benefits more Caicos.
from the favourable current. The best time for pas- The southern route (AN84B) also takes its
sages on either route is at the change of seasons, departure from WP AN841 from where the course
but even at the height of the winter trades, the only leads to WP AN843 off Cape Borinquen. The route
inconvenience will be the occasional strong wind. then runs in a NW direction south of Navidad and
On leaving St Thomas, and having cleared Savana Silver Banks to WP AN844, SW of Mouchoir Bank.
Island, off its western extremity, make for WP From there the course is altered to pass at a safe
AN841. From this waypoint, just north of the light distance SW of Sandy Cay, at the southern
on Culebrita Island, route AN84A makes for WP entrance into Turks Passage.

AN85 Virgin Islands to Bahamas

101
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
-

To reach the Bahamas from the Virgin Islands one ject to strong currents, as indeed is the entire area
can take either an inshore route, along the north of the Bahamas. The nearest island to clear into the
coasts of Puerto Rico and Hispaniola (AN85B), or Bahamas is Mayaguana, whose eastern point
an offshore route staying outside all islands should be given a wide berth to avoid the reefs sur-
(AN85A). As the inshore route requires mostly rounding it. Although Abrams Bay, the main set-
coastal cruising, no waypoints are given. The off- tlement on the south coast of the island, is not an
shore route (AN85A) is both shorter and faster official port of entry, boats are allowed to stop there
especially if the destination is in the Northern provided they complete formalities in the first offi-
Bahamas. It follows a NW course parallel to the cial port of entry. The nearest is Cockburn Town
chain of islands as · far as the NE Providence on the island of San Salvador. If continuing on the
Channel. Whether going offshore immediately on offshore route, course for the latter should not be
leaving St Thomas, or stopping first in San Juan, set until one is well clear of Samana Cay, a low .unlit
Puerto Rico, the course should pass Navidad, island lying between Mayaguana and San
Silver, and Mouchoir Banks at a safe distance. The Salvador. From WP AN853 the course should be
offshore passage can be made at any time outside altered for WP AN854 east of Samana. From there
of the hurricane season. Between December and a course can be set for WP AN855.
April, at the height of the winter trades, fair, if After landfall is made at WP ANBSS, 5 miles SE
strong winds, can be expected as well as the of Sandy Point, the SW extremity of San Salvador,
favourable NW setting Antilles Current. Light the west of the island should be passed at a safe
winds and even calms can be expected at ·the distance before approaching the main settlement
change of seasons, especially in May. The route can at Cockburn Town. Entry formalities can be com-
be affected by depressions passing to the north with pleted there, or at the airport, where the officials
resulting NW winds. are based. There is an anchorage off the settlement
On leaving St Thomas, and having cleared or a small marina one mile further north. Riding
Savana Island, off its western extremity, from Rock Marina has a difficult entrance with a max-
Savana Passage and WP AN851 a course is set for imum depth of 7 ft at high tide. The GPS latitude
WP AN852, north of Silver Bank. The route con- of the entrance channel into the small marina has
tinues in a NW direction to WP AN853 off Caicos been reported as 24 "03.4'N. The marina can be con-
Passage. The Southern Bahamas can be reached via tacted on VHF channel 6.
several deep water passes, all of which are sub-

10?
 ANSO ROUTES FR OM THE VIRGIN ISL AN DS

AN86 Virgin Islands to Florida

For boats bound for Florida there are several alter- branches off through the NE and NW Providence
native routes to choose from. Between April and Channels and crosses the Gulf Stream to Florida.
June, the most direct route runs in a NW direction The other alternatives consist of island hopping,
parallel to the Turks and Caicos Islands as well as either right through Turks and Caicos and the
the Bahamas as far as Great Abaco (AN86A) . This Bahamas, or along the northern shores of Puerto
offshore route benefits from strong winds Rico, Hispaniola, and Cuba (AN86C). In the la t-
throughout the winter months and also the ter case, Florida is reached through the Old Bahama
favourable Antilles Current. More benign condi- Channel, south of the Great Bahama Bank. Both
tions will be experienced at the change of seasons, these routes can be used at any time between
in April and May. Directions for this route are sim- November and June, but as they cannot be
ilar to those for both AN85 and AN87C to which regarded as offshore passages they are not
reference should be made. Boats bound for ports described in detail, n or are there any waypoints
in South Florida can follow route AN86A as far listed .
as Great Abaco island where route AN86B

AN87 Virgin Islands to North America

103
ROUTES I N THE NORT H ATLANTIC

The end of the winter sailing season in the Eastern Although this route is undoubtedly the shortest,
Caribbean is the time when most boats set off on as it is the most direct, it may not be the quickest
this passage, which is also the time when best con- as it cuts diagonally across the zone of calms that
ditions can be expected for most of the way. On will be found north of latitude 25 '.
the direct rou te (AN87A), which does not call at Boats taking route AN87C will sail on a NW
Bermuda, favourable winds can be expected as far course parallel to the Turks and Caicos. and
as the northern limit of the trade w inds. Bahamas as far as the Abacos before heading for
Southerly winds occasionally last right tJtrough the their destination. On leaving St Thomas, and hav-
zone of calms that extends between latitudes 25 'N ing cleared Sa vana Island, off its western extrem-
and 30'N. The temptation to ride the Gulf Stream ity, from WP AN871 a direct course, w hich keeps
should be resisted if this passage is made early in well outside all dangers, can be set for WP AN875,
the season to avoid being caught by a late north of Great Abaco. From there the route turns
norther. For boats bound for ports to the north of north and enters the Gulf Stream. Both winds and
Cape Hatteras similar directions apply as for route current are favourable along most of this route.
Al'\188 and in fact many people prefer to break the Whichever alternative is chosen, the optimum
voyage in Bermuda and reach the more distant time for leaving the Virgins also coincides with the
ports on the US east coast or even Canada that way. end of the safe cruising season in the Eastern
For boats bound for ports south of Cape Caribbean. A direct passage along any of the above
Hatteras a detour via Bermuda is not justified. They routes should not be attempted during the win-
have a choice of either a slightly indirect route ter months when a slower cruise through the
(AN87C) or the direct route AN87B, which follows Bahamas to Florida is to be preferred and US ports
a rhumb line from the Virgins to the US east coast. can be reached in a more leisurely way.

104
r
I
I AN88 Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico to Bermuda
AN80 ROUTES FROM THE ~GI N ISLANDS

I
I!

Bermuda provides an attractive stop for boats sail- lowed especially later in the season when there is
ing from the Virgins or Puerto Rico to either Europe a higher risk of being caught by a hurricane and
or the US east coast. Best conditions on this route, one should not dally too long in this area.
which crosses the Horse Latitudes, will be found Summer passages along this route are definitely
in late spring or early summer. At this time of year discouraged as the tracks of past hurricanes almost
the trade winds are more E or SE in direction than coincide with the direct course to Bermuda.
in winter. Even if the winds blow from the NE, it Tropical depressions become more frequent after
does not matter if one is pushed slightly to the west the'beginning of July and even if they do not gen-
of the desired course, because the further north one erate strong winds, the weather in their vicinity
goes, the greater likelihood there is of a shi~ of is very unsettled with heavy rain. If such a depres-
wind to the SE or even S. If favourable winds are sion forms close to the Virgin Islands, contrary
not found the ground lost to the west can be winds can be expected on the way to Bermuda.
regained, by motoring through the calms. North Boats leaving from St Thomas usually reach the
of the zone of calms, the winds become variable, open sea through Savana Passage, west of the
with a predominance of S or SW winds and only island . From WP AN881 a direct course leads all
rarely N winds. The danger of a winter norther is the way to Bermuda where landfall is made at WP
minimal after the middle of April when most pas- AN883. If leaving from Puerto Rico, from WP
. sages are made on this route. Generally, the best AN882 a course can be set for the same WP AN883,
conditions are encountered in May. This route is one mile east of St David's Head in the approach-
not recommended after the end of June because es to the Town Cut. This leads into St George's
of the increased frequency of hurricanes. Those Harbour, which is Bermuda's only port of entry.
who are determined to make good time to The entrance through Town Cut is difficult to nego-
Bermuda should be prepared to motor if they tiate in the dark and those unfamiliar with it should
encounter any calms. This advice should be fol- avoid using it at night.

105
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
l
AN89 Virgin Islands to Azores

Because of the extensive area of variable winds that frequency of hurricanes increases and if a summer
lies across the direct route to the Azores, the rec- passage is considered, the Caribbean should only
ommended route across the Atlantic leads first in be left with a reasonable long term forecast. If no
a NE direction into an area of prevailing wester- tropical depression is seen to be forming in the area,
ly winds. As such a route passes close to there is a fairly good chance of not being overtaken
Bermuda, most boats taking it usually stop there by the resulting storm.
before continuing the voyage to the Azores. Intermediate waypoints cannot be given as the
Directions for those routes are found on pages 105 route sailed will depend entirely on the winds
and 138 (routes AN88 and AN125). encountered. The most popular landfall in the
Although considerably shorter, the grea t circle Azores continues to be Horta, on the island of Faial,
route can seldom be sailed for its entire length and where there is a good marina and entry formali-
a good supply of fuel should be carried so as to ties can be completed. To reach Horta, landfall is
motor through the almost unavoidable areas of made at WP AN891, 3 miles SW of Faial. The
calms. In spring and early summer, the winds as island's south coast is followed before turning
far as latitude 26"N or 28 ' N will be south of east. north at the conspicuous Mount Guia.
Further north they will become light and variable, The recently improved port of Lajes, on the west-
with prolonged calms a strong possibility. The opti- ernmost island of Flores, offers the possibility of
mum time for a direct passage is between May and clearing into the Azores earlier. Having made land-
July. April is probably too early as the frequency fall at WP AN892, 3 miles SW of Flores, the island's
of gales in the Atlantic is still high. After July the south coast is followed to Lajes.

AN90 CARIBBEAN ROUTES FROM PANAMA

AN91 Panama to Central America 108
AN92 Panama to the Gulf of Mexico and Florida 109
AN93 Panama to Jamaica, Bahamas and USA 111
AN94 Panama to Hispaniola 113
AN95 Panama to Virgin Islands 114
AN96 Panama to Lesser Antilles 115
AN9~ Panama to Colombia 115
AN98 Panama to Venezuela and the ABC Islands 116

106
 AN90 CARIBBE AN ROUTES FROM PANAMA

To Galveston 60'W

TURKS&
v CAICOS
•
20'N

~ ANTIGUA
0 0
I>-~t:i

~
t?;
ST LUCIA!>
I
GRENADA la
II

80'W

AN90 Caribbean routes from Panama

Most routes in the Caribbean Sea either start or end The entire area is affected by winter northers,
in Panama, and because they have many features although these winter storms gradually decrease in
in common it is worth considering them togeth- intensity further south and are not so strong south
er. Because of the multitude of destinations, the of Honduras. However, these northers, combined
routes are difficult to define, although there are with strong NE trade winds can result in very strong
certain considerations that have to be taken into winds described as intensified trades in the most
account whichever route is contemplated. Most of southerly portion of the Ca ribbean Sea. From
these considerations are closely related to weath- November to March the winds off the coast of Cen-
er, and passages through the Caribbean are dis- tral America tend to be more northerly than the
couraged during the hurricane season, especially northeasterlies which prevail at other times of the
during the months of highest frequency, from year. This coast is particularly affected by land and
August to October. Some of the late hurricanes sea breezes. The sea breeze commences from the NE
actually form in the Caribbean and warnings are in mid-morning and gradually increases, drawing
therefore shorter tha n when the depression has around to the E between mid-afternoon and su n-
been tracked across the Atlantic. Rough weather set. The breeze carries on moving around clockwise
can also be experienced in the Western Caribbean until in the night it blows moderately from the SE.
at the height of the winter trades, whereas in the In the more southern coastal areas this land breeze
Gulf of Mexico winter is associated with violent can become W and SW. The summer rainy season
northerly storms. Another concern in the Gulf of is characterised by squally weather especially in the
Mexico a re the strong currents whose direction is late afternoon. It is rarely calm and a similar pattern
often different to that depicted on charts. of land and sea breezes prevails as in the winter.

107
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

Eastbound passages from Panama can be very voyage can be continued to the Lesser Antilles. If
difficult at most times of the year, because of the the Canal is transited in late October or early
prevailing direction of the winds and current. November and the trade winds are already too
Many people are tempted to make this passage late strong to attempt a direct passage, it may be worth
in the year so as to arrive in the Lesser Antilles dur- approaching the Lesser Antilles from the north, by
ing the hurricane-free season. In such a case, the sailing first to the Virgin Islands via Puerto Rico.
eastward passage must be made before the onset This latter course of action will depend greatly on
of the strong winter trades. Better and more com- the windward performance of tne boat, as most
fortable passages have been made in late spring of the passage will be hard on the wind. An eas-
or early summer, although this has the disad- ier option would be to reach the Eastern
vantage of arriving in the Lesser Antilles at the Caribbean in shorter stages, either by following
beginning of the hurricane season. In order to make the north coast of South America via the San Blas
this passage at the best time, and also avoid the Islands, Colombia, the ABC Islands, and
hurricane season, there are two options. If the Venezuela, or to take a northern sweep via the
Panama Canal cannot be transited before winter Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico. Whichever
it is better to wait until April or May and then head alternative is chosen, the onward passage from
for Venezuela and the islands to the north of it. As Panama should be carefully planned to avoid being
this area is mostly outside the hurricane zone it immobilised in Panama while waiting for the trade
is safe to cruise there until November when the winds to subside.

AN91 Panama to Central America

108
 AN90 CARIBBEAN ROUTES FROM PANAMA

On leaving the Panama Canal area there are two into that country at Livingston. From the Bay
alternatives, either a direct offshore route to the Islands, the route continues into the Gulf of
north of Honduras (AN91A), or an indirect route Honduras. A si)allow bar at the riv~r entrance has
for those who intend to cruise on their way through to be negotiated to reach Livingston, and this is
Honduras, Belize, or other parts of Central best done at high tide.
America (AN91B). The extensive cruising grounds of Belize are eas-
The more direct offshore route requires careful ily reached from the Bay Islands. Boats normally
navigation, especially at the beginning, because of clear into Belize at Belize City.
the numerous banks and cays that lie off the coast The alternative inshore route (AN91 B) follows
of Central A,merica. From WP AN910, off the the Mosquito Coast of Nicaragua and Honduras.
entrance into the Panama Canal, the course goes On leaving the Panama Canal, a first stop can be
due north to WP AN911, 20 miles east of made in Costa Rica's Puerto Limon. If continuing
Roncador Bank. A northerly course will be main- along the coast to Nicaragua, the official port of
tained to the next WP AN912 to pass at a safe dis- entry there is El Bluff. ·
tance east of Serrana Bank. From there, a NW Those who take the offshore route on leaving
course for WP AN913 follows a relatively deeper Panama can stop at either San Andres or
channel. Boats bound for the Bay Islands of Providencia, two islands just north of Panama
Honduras or beyond, from WP AN913 should set which belong to Colombia. The GPS coordinates
a course for WP AN914, 20 miles ENE of Gorda of the landfall buoy off Puerto Isabel, on Pro-
Cay. As this course leads over some shallow spots videncia, have been reported as 13 '24'N,
it should only be taken if the weather is not too 81 '21.6'W. However, if conditions are unfavour-
rough, otherwise the seas· breaking over the able ~r visibility poor, it is strongly recommend-
banks can make conditions hazardous. The ed to take the offshore route described earlier and
course from Gorda Cay passes north of Hobbies stay well clear of all dangers.
Cays through WP AN915, from where a clear The cruising grounds of Honduras, Guatemala,
course leads to the islands of Guanaja or Roa tan and Belize can be explored befo,e rejoining the off-
(Coxen Hole), both of which have ports where entry ~hore route which continues to the Gulf of Mexico
formalities into Honduras can be completed. as described in AN92.
Boats bound for Guatemala's Rio Dulce can clear

AN92 Panama to the Gulf of Mexico and Florida

109
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

As the direct route from Panama to the Gulf of ter northers and fall outside the months with a high
Mexico passes close to a number of attractive cruis- frequency of hurricanes. If the passage is made in
ing grounds, the voyage can be interrupted in any winter, it is recommended to wait until immedi-
of these Central American destinations, as ately after a norther, when light conditions may
described in AN91. Northbound passages to the be expected for a few days.
Yucatan Channel can be made either nonstop, albeit In the summer the prevailing winds are from the
through an area encumbered by dangers, or can SE and the weather is rainy with heavy squalls and
be interrupted at either Grand Cayman or Swan calm periods. From April to July land and sea
Island. breezes alternate along the south coast cif the USA.
As in the case of all Caribbean passages, the tim- The Gulf is one of the areas most affected by hur-
ing for this route is crucial. Apart from the risk of ricanes between June and November, being
being caught by a hurricane, especially from July threatened both by tropical storms that form in the
to October, many boats have got into difficulty Gulf itself and those travelling from other areas
when hit by a strong norther in the Gulf of Mexico. of the Caribbean. From September to November
The whole area is affected by northers from hurricanes spawned in the Western Caribbean are
November until the beginning of April and their most likely to pass through the Yucatan Channel
effect can be felt as far south as Panama, although and then curve around north and east towards
their strength is greatly diminished by the time the Cuba and Florida. Tornadoes, waterspouts, and
wmds reach those latitudes. The violent conditions arched squalls are also a feature of the hurricane
produced by the northerly wind blowing against season.
the strong currents in the Gulf have caused boats The prevailing winds in the Western Caribbean
to capsize or even founder. The best time to make are NE to E, with a southern component making
this passage is from the middle of April to the end itself felt north of Yucatan. The currents along this
of June, when there is a reasonable chance of winds route set in a NW direction attaining their
with a southerly component. Northbound passages strongest rate in the Yucatan Channel. The sets in
can also be made from late October to early the Gulf of Mexico are complex and difficult to pre-
December, but the weather must be watched more dict, particularly in the area of the Dry Tortugas
carefully. Both periods avoid the worst of the win- where extreme caution should be exercised.

110
 AN90 CARIBBEAN ROUTES FROM PA NAMA

Northbound boats have a choice of two routes, Cayman, another convenient stop on the way to
one which stays well offshore of all dangers and the Yucatan Channel is at Swan Island. If such a
is more attractive to those intending to stop at stop is considered, from WP AN924 the course is
Grand Cayman (AN92A), and a slightly shorter altered to pass over Gorda Bank to WP AN925 off
route taking a more direct course to the Yucatan Swan Island's eastern point. Going north from
Channel (AN92B). From WP AN920, north of the Swan Island, one can either head straight for the
Panama Canal entrance, route AN92A goes due Yucatan Channel or make another stop at Isla
north to WP AN921, 20 miles east of Roncador Mujeres, which is a favourite place at which to wait
Bank. The northerly course will be maintained to for favourable conditions to cross the Gulf of
the next WP AN922 east of Serrana Bank. From Mexico. To call at IslltJ!ujeres, set a course for WP
there, a course is set for WP AN923 off Grand AN926, SE of Punta Sur, at the island's SE extrem-
Cayman. On arrival off Georgetown contact Port ity. Isla Mujeres is an official port of entry into
Security on VHF channel 16, which is monitored Mexico. If no stops are intended anywhere en route,
permanently. from WP AN924, a course should be set for WP
Boats taking route AN92B, from WP AN920 AN927 off Cuba's Cape San Antonio, which
should set a course for WP AN924, halfway marks the eastern side of the Yucatan Channel.

I between Sueno and Serrana Banks, both of which

have lights. From there, boats that have decided
Whether sailing nonstop or planning to visit some
places on the way, this route has many attractions
to stop at Grand Cayman should alter course for boats bound for US ports in the Gulf of Mexico
almost due north over a shallow bank to WP as well as on both coasts of Florida. Other routes,
AN923, off the NW extremity of Grand Cayman. such as AN93, should be considered for more north-

I From there, the course turns east to reach the cap-

ital Georgetown. Rather than stop in Grand
ern destinations on the east coast of the USA.

I·
AN93 Panama to Jamaica, Bahamas and USA

i
. I

I
.I
!

111
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

This northbound route through the Windward the SW extremity of Hispaniola. In strong winds
Passage is favoured by those who wish to reach it is safer to take the westerly route to WP AN933,
ports along the east coast of the USA, although the 10 miles west of Navassa Island, to avoid the break-
times when this route can be sailed comfortably ing seas on the shallow banks lying close to the
are relatively short. The best periods are either Haitian coast. The course then leads through the
between April ahd June, when the trades have lost Windward Passage to WP AN934, SE of Cape
their winter strength and winds have a souther- Maisi, at Cuba's eastern extremity. A traffic sep-
ly element in them, or November, before the onset aration zone is in operation off this point.
of the strong winter trades. When sailing this route Having reached the Windward Passage boats
late in the year, there is also the danger of encoun- bound for South Florida should take the route
tering a norther. Passages during the hurricane sea- which runs along the north of Cuba and passes
son should be avoided, especially during the through the Old Bahama and Santaren Channels
months of highest frequency (August to October). (AN93C). No waypoints are listed for this inshore
During all other summer months the weather route. The route to northern ports on the US east
should be observed closely. coast (AN93D) cuts right across the Outer
Navigation in the central Caribbean Sea is made Bahamas. Initially the route passes west of Great
difficult by the.large number of banks, reefs, and Inagua and those who wish to stop in the
shoals, aggravated by the strong west-setting cur- Bahamas can clear in at Matthew Town, the main
rent. Because of this current, a direct course for settlement on that island. The route continues
Jamaica leads dangerously close to the New northwards through the Mira-Por-Vos Passage, west
Bank and Pedro Bank and adequate allowance of Acklins and Crooked Islands and also west of
should be made for leeway when setting a course San Salvador Island before gaining the open
to windward of them. Both these banks can be very ocean. From San Salvador, a direct route can be set
dangerous in heavy weather and their vicinity to ports north of Cape Hatteras, whereas for ports
should be avoided. From Panama and WP AN930 to the south of Cape Hatteras, the route turns NW
the direct route (AN93A) passes east of the vari- and runs parallel to the chain of islands. Attention
ous banks to WP AN931 south of Plumb Point, in should be paid to the current setting strongly to
the approaches to the Jamaican capital Kingston. the l\TW along the Northern Bahamas, which is a
If a stopover in Jamaica is not intended, on leav- continuation of the Antilles Current. From WP
ing Panama from WP AN930, the course should AN935, north of Great Abaco, the route turns north
be set for WP AN932 about 20 miles SE of Morant and enters the Gulf Stream. For ports in Northern
Cays, SE of Jamaica. This offshore route (AN93B) Florida or South Carolina, it may be necessary to
leads well clear of all dangers. From AN932 the continue to WP AN936, north of Grand Bahama,
course can pass either to the west of Navassa before the course is altered for the port of desti-
Island, or between this island and Cape Tiburon, nation. To take full advantage of the Gulf Stream,

112
 AN90 CARIBBEAN ROUTES FROM PA N AMA

especially if one's destination is in North Florida Mayaguana Island and the Caicos Bank. Strong cur-
or South Carolina, that initial course may have to rents have been recorded in the Caicos Passage,
continue in a NW direction so as to reach the area which have caused many ships and yachts to be
of the strongest current closer to the Florida coast. Jost on the reefs surrounding Mayaguana Island.
The Windward Passage is clear of dangers but The currents appear to be much stronger than stat-
attention is drawn to those continuing their voy- ed and are difficult to detect, especially if one sails
age northwards through Caicos Passage, between through the area by night. ·

i
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I
I. Because the prevailing winds in the Caribbean Sea
are NE or·E, all destinations on this route are to
and Dominican Republic should follow the same
directions as for route AN93B as far as the
I I
windward of Panama for most of the year. Unless Windward Passage.
I there is a shift of wind to the south, it would be From WP AN940 outside the entrance to the u
better to follow directions as for route AN93B and Panama Canal, a direct course leads right across I
then work one' s way eastward along the south the Caribbean Sea to WP AN941, 10 miles SSE of I
coast of Hispaniola with the help of land breezes. Punta Palenque. The course is altered there for WP
Close inshore there is sometimes an east-setting AN942 in the approaches to Santo Domingo, the
current. Boats bound for the north coast of Haiti Dominican capital.

I
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. 113
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

AN95 Panama to Virgin Islands

1

This is a difficult route throughout the year on times two radically different routes offer more
account of the prevailing winds and the west- attractive alternatives. Depending on the time of
setting current. The direct route offers two alter- year, it might be better to sail route AN93 through
natives, either south of Puerto Rico (AN95A), or the Windward Passage and then turn east along
via the Mona Passage and north of Puerto Rico the north coasts of Hispaniola and Puerto Rico.
(AN95B). On both those routes the initial course Another possibility is to sail as close to the wind
has to clear Manzanilla Point at WP AN951 before as possible to the south coast of Hispaniola and
a clear course can be set diagonally across the then continue to the Virgins by either staying south
Caribbean Sea. Boats bound directly for St of Puerto Rico or going north of the island
Thomas will make their landfall at WP AN952, off through the Mona Passage. See also route AN94.
Vieques Island, east of Puerto Rico. Boats prefer- As none of the above alternatives should be
ring to sail around the north coast of Puerto Rico attempted during the hurricane season, a more
will make their landfall at WP AN953 at the drastic alternative may have to be contemplat-
entrance into the Mona Passage. The route then ed entailing a lengthy detour through the
swings around the NW point of Puerto Rico at WP Southern Caribbean. Such a route has the attrac-
AN954 from where it runs parallel to the north tion that it can be sailed at almost any time of the
coast as far as St Thomas. year. This entails a detour to Venezuela and the
These two direct routes have a better chance of islands off the Venezuelan coast and offers the
favourable conditions in early summer, when SE possibility of spending the summer in this safer
winds are not uncommon. Lighter winds may be area before heading north at the end of the hur-
experienced at the change of seasons, another time ricane season. Routes AN97 and AN98 have more
when this passage can be attempted. At all other details.

114
 l
AN90 CARIBBEAN ROUTES FROM PANAMA

AN96 Panama to Lesser Antilles

This can be a very rough trip as the direct passage other two months when one can expect lighter
is to windward all the way. It is a challenge that winds, are still in the hurricane season, and
is faced by all those who intend to head east after although Venezuela and the offlying islands are.
transiting the Panama Canal. Because of the sheer mostly outside the hurricane belt, conditions in the
difficulty of reaching the Eastern Caribbean non- Western Caribbean can become extremely
stop, most boats break up the voyage into short- uncomfortable if a hurricane is passing farther to
er stages by stopping at some places on the way. the ~ast or north. The worst time to do this pas-
Some call in first at the San Blas Islands, for which sage is at the height of the winter trades, from
the compulsory cruising permit should be January to early April.
obtained before leaving Cristobal. An additional The eastbound passage through Venezuelan
permit must be obtained on arrival in Porvenir, waters should be made as close inshore as possi-
which is an obligatory stop for those wishing to ble to take advantage of both land and sea breezes
cruise the San Blas Islands. Whether calling at the and a favourable current that runs close to the coast.
San Blas Islands or not, a further stop can be made At night the trade winds usually die away and this
in Colombia. The next stop could be the island of is the time to sail inshore to use the land breeze.
Aruba, unless one is prepared to sail nonstop to A boat which sails well to windward can take an
the Lesser Antilles, a task which is not easily offshore tack during the day and head for the shore
accomplished because 'of the contrary wind and before nightfall. In this way Grenada can be reached
current along the Venezuelan coast. in short hops and from there any of the other islands
The best time for a passage along a southern in the Eastern Caribbean. The first stage of an east-
route is between June and August, when the trade bound voyage is described in detail in route AN97.
winds are less consistent in both strength and direc- An alternative way of reaching islands in the NE
tion than in winter. October and November, the Caribbean is described in route AN95.

AN97 Panama to Colombia

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115
).
~.·
ROUTES !N THE NORTH ATLANTIC

Reaching the Atlantic coast of Colombia from Punta Manzanillo. The course is then altered for
neighbouring Panama is not easily accomplished WP AN972 in the approaches to the port of
at any time of the year on account of the contrary Cartagena. The area should be approached with cau-
wind and strong current. A convenient stop en tion because of the dangers in the approaches to
route is the San Blas Islands, which belong to Cartagena. Also avoided should be the silted Boca
Panama. The route then cuts across the Gulf of Grande as the dredged entrance is Boca Chica, iden-
Darien to Carta"gena, an attractive historic town, tified by a landfall buoy, close to the end of Isla de
which has become the most popular port of call Tierra Bomba. An 8 mile long chsinnel leads north-
among cruising boats visiting Colombia. From WP ward through the shallow Bania de Cartagena to
AN970, at the entrance to the Panama Canal, a first the commercial port and two marinas.
course should be ~et for WP AN971, 10 miles N of

AN98 Panama to Venezuela and the ABC Islands

Those who do not intend to stop in Colombia are wind season the winds themselves often blow at
faced with a long offshore tack to WP AN981, 30 force 7 or even 8 and this combined with the cur-
miles north of Punta de Gallinas. Having reached rent makes progress almost impossible. The log-
that point, a first stop can be made in Aruba, where ical solution is to cover this section in short cruising
Port Control should be contacted on VHF chan- stages by sailing first to the San Blas Islands, then
nel 16 for berthing and clearance instructions Cartagena in Colombia (see route AN97), where
before entering Oranjestad. to wait for a favourable change in the weather.
The above course is difficult, if not impossible, Occasionally the predominantly easterly winds will
to hold against the prevailing NE or E winds of have enough north in them to allow some short
winter and this passage is better attempted at the tacks along the Colombian coast. Such tacks should
change of seasons. Light winds and even calms be very short so as to keep out of the strength of
occur sometimes in November, and if one is pre- the main west-setting current and also benefit from
pared to use the engine good progress can be made some shelter from the swell. Detailed coastal charts
while favourable conditions last. Better conditions will be needed as well as both a boat capable of
may be encountered early in summer, when a beating to windward and a crew prepared to put
southern component in the trade winds may pro- up with the hard going.
vide some help in one's tacking efforts. A different way to reach Venezuela and the ABC
At all other times there is unfortunately no alter- Islands is to reserve them for the end of a
native to a hard beat to windward and the undis- Caribbean cruise. In such a case, it is both easier
puted difficulty of this route must be seriously and more comfortable to sail north on leaving
considered before including it in one' s overall Panama by following the directions for one of the
cruising plans. A direct nonstop route eastwards northbound routes and eventually re~ch
from Panama is extremely difficult because of both Venezuela from the north and Lesser Antilles. See
adverse winds and current, which can set west- routes AN94 and AN95 for more details.
wards at up to 2 knots. At the height of the trade

116
 AN100 ROUTES IN THE CARIBBEAN SEA

AN100 ROUTES IN THE CARIBBEAN SEA

AN101 ABC Islands and Venezuela to Lesser Antilles ·118
AN102 ABC Islands and Venezuela to Virgin Islands 118
AN103 Northbound from Venezuela and the ABC Islands 119
AN104 ABC Islands and Venezuela to Panama 120
AN105 ABC Islands and Venezuela to Colombia 121
AN106 Colombia to Panama 122
AN107 Jamaica to Panama 123
AN108 Jamaica to Central America and Mexico 124

The fact that Venezuela and the offshore islands to head that way and heavy swells can be expe-
lie to the south of the hurricane belt, while still rienced when a hurricane is passing further
being in the trade wind zone, is the main attrac- north. The offshore islands of Venezuela and the
tion of this area for those who wish to continue former Dutch territories of Aruba, Bonaire, and
cruising during the summer months when the risk Cura~ao are all under the influence of the NE trade
of hurricanes hangs over the rest of the Caribbean. winds for most of the year and enjoy similar weath-
Although most of the area is outside the hurricane er conditions to the more southern islands of the
area, very rarely a rogue storm has been known Lesser Antilles.

60°W

bo ~AYAGUANA

QQ~~:ifJl

20'N

~ VIRGIN ISLANDS
~ ,

~ ANTIGUA
no
t>i 'I
~

BD'W

ANlOO Routes in the Caribbean Sea

117
I
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ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

The weather along continental Venezuela is influ- The day breeze picks.up during the morning and
enced by the land mass of the South American con- by mid-afternoon can blow quite strongly. From
tinent. The NE trade winds have a pronounced May to November, there are strong southerly
easterly component along this coast, particularly squalls which lose their intensity as.they head off-
from March to June. The season of the strongest shore. In the Maracaibo area local afternoon squalls
winds is December to April when the trades blow called chubascos can blow with up to 50 knots of
NE to E. From June to September, when most peo- wind. In the same area strong winds build up in
ple choose to cruise this area, the winds are lighter the winter due to the desert heating up and draw-
and more variable. The land mass causes easter- ing the wind inland off the wat~r. In the autumn
ly breezes which usually blow in the daytime and hot short blasts called calderatas occasionally
die out at night, it often being quite calm at dawn. blow down the mountains.

AN101 ABC Islands and Venezuela to Lesser Antilles

Because of the direction of the prevailing wind it possible and make for one of the islands further
is usually better to work one's way east between to the north. Towards spring, with a better chance
the coast and the offlying islands before setting of SE winds, direct passages to more northerly
course for one of the Lesser Antilles. The distance islands are easier to accomplish, but even then it
between Venezuela's Margarita Island and is better to start off from as far east as possible.
Grenada, the most southerly of the Lesser This is normally easier at the change of seasons
Antilles, is only 140 miles. However, rather than when lighter winds make it possible to gain some
beat against the strong w ind and equally strong easting with the help of the engine.
current, it is better to sail as close to the wind as
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AN102 ABC Islands and Venezuela to Virgin Islands

118
 AN100 RO UTES I N THE CARIBBEAN SEA

!:

This is a difficult passage during the winter months to lay such a direct course for the Virgins, it is bet-
when the trade winds may have too much north ter to use the Mona Passage by setting course for
in them. From December to April it is usually eas- WP AN1022 and reach the Virgin Islands by sail-
ier to reach the Virgins by following the sugges- ing along the north coast of Puerto Rico
tion in AN101 and then sail north in short hops (AN102B). However, sh~uld it be impossible to lay
along the chain of Lesser Antilles. For a direct pas- a course even for the Mona Passage because of
sage (AN102A), it is better to wait until the sec- unfavourable winds, landfall can be made further
ond half of April, when there is a better chance of west, along the coast of Hispaniola, from where
having the wind from a more favourable direction. it should be possible to work one's way east along
Taking one's departure from WP AN1020 off the coast with the help of a fair inshore current and
Aruba's NW point, the direct offshore route land breezes. The same can be done along the south
leads to WP AN1021 SE of Vieques Island, off coast of Puerto Rico if a detour via Mona Passage
Puerto Rico's east coast. If it proves too diffo;:ult is not attractive.

"
AN103 Northbound from Venezuela and the ABC Islands

119
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

For those who have cruised in this area and do not USA, and not interested in a detour to Bermuda,
plan to continue their voyage towards Panama and the alternative on leaving Mona Passage is to take
possibly the Pacific Ocean, but intend to sail either a NW route parallel to the Bahamas and reach ports
to the USA or Europe, the best season for the north- south of Cape Hatteras by staying offshore
bound passage is spring, when the winds usual- (AN103B). Alternatively it is possible to take a
ly start shifting to the SE. It is best to start this route which goes to Florida via the Bahamas and
passage from as far east as possible, both Bonaire then use the Intracoastal Waterway to reach
and Cura<;ao being good points of departure. If more northern ports (AN103C). If this latter
heading for the Mona Passage allowance should alternative is being considered, it would hardly
be made for the west-setting current during the be worth fighting the elements to reach the Mona
crossing of the Caribbean Sea. In case one cannot Passage when a route through the Windward
Jay Mona Passage and one is swept to the west, it Passage would be considerably easier to accom-
is possible to break the trip on the south coast of plish. In this case from AN1030 a course should
Hispaniola and then work one's way east with the be set for WP AN1034 east of Navassa Island, off
help of an easterly current that sets close inshore. Hispaniola's SW extremity. From there the route
As there is a good deal of north in the trades dur- turns north towards the Windward Passage and
ing the early part of winter, the passage should not continues either right through the Bahamas or
be attempted too early in the year. The best time turns NW through the Old Bahama Channel. No
to attempt the direct route (AN103A) across the· further waypoints are listed for this inshore
Caribbean Sea is April or May, when there is less route to Southern Florida. Boats bound for more
of a chance of the winds swinging to the north. If northerly ports should refer to route AN93D (page
one plans to carry on towards Europe, from Mona 112) which describes the continuation of this route
Passage a direct course can be set for Bermuda. through the Outer Bahamas and beyond.
Boats bound for ports east of New York may also Another way to reach Southern Florida is to cross
consider such a stop in Bermuda. For the contin- the entire Caribbean Sea and reach the Gulf of
uation of the rout~ north of Mona Passage see also Mexico through the Yucatan Channel. In that case,
routes AN87, AN88, and AN102. directions for the later part of the passage are given
For those sailing to ports on the east coast of the in AN83 (page 99).

AN104 ABC Islands and Venezuela to Panama

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120
 AN100 RO UTES I N THE CARIBB EAN SEA

A large number of westbound boats stop in From WP AN1040 outside Oranjestad, the
Venezuela or the offiying islands before continu- course should be set for WP AN1041 28 miles north
ing the voyage towards Panama. Although this of Punta Gallinas on Guajira Peninsula just out-
route is just outside the region affected by hurri- side the 1000 fathom line. From there, a direct
canes, it is better to plan this passage for the inter- course can be set for WP A 1042 10 miles N of
mediate seasons when more pleasant conditions Punta Manzanillo and 30 miles from the Panama
can be expected. Canal entrance. Then the course should be altered
The best point of departure for Panama is Aruba, for WP AN1043 at the landfall buoy off the entrance
from where a course should be steered to pass into the port of Cristobal Colon. Traffic Control
ra pidly into deeper waters. On leaving Aruba, the should be contacted on VHF channel 12. Traffic
shallow bank to its west should be avoided as the lights control the passage through the breakwa-
west-setting offshore current combined with an ters and small boats are advised to keep as close
east-setting inshore cu rent can produce rough and as possible to the sides. See page 489 for detailed
confused seas. The recommended course is outside instructions concerning entry and transit proce-
the 1000 fathom line, which avoids the rough seas d ure for the Panama Canal.
that occur in the shallower waters closer to land.

AN105 ABC Islands and Venezuela to Colombia

After being avoided for many years by cruising are similar to routes AN73 and AN74 (pages 88-9).
boats, Colombia is again being included in cruis- Boats leaving from Aruba should set an initial
ing plans and a large number of visiting boats are course for WP AN1051 28 m iles north of Punta
stopping in Colombia, especially in the historic city Gallinas on Guajira Peninsula. From there the rec-
of Cartagena. Directions for sailing to Colombia ommended route leads to WPs AN1052 and

121
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

AN1053. Both points are just outside the 1000 fath- As on most other routes in the Caribbean Sea,
om line, although strong winds and high seas can best conditions are encountered in either April-
be expected on this route, especially during the May, or November. Because the route crosses an
winter months. From waypoint AN1053 the area known for its rough seas, Aruba should not
course can be altered for WP AN1054 in the be left in winds over 30 knots, or if there is a fore-
approaches to the port of Cartagena. The area should cast of strong winds to come. The current will be
be approached with caution because of the dangers in one's favour almost all the way to Cartagena,
in the approaches. Also avoid the silted Boca with sets of 1.5 to 2 knots, alti}ough a counter-
Grande as the dredged entrance is Boca Chica, current may make itself felt in the last 20-30 miles
identified by a landfall buoy, close to the end of Isla to Cartagena. The area around Cartagena is
de Tierra Bomba. An 8 mile long channel leads affected by a violent southerly wind called
northward through the shallow Bahia de chocosono, which can attain 50 or even 60 knots.
Cartagena to the commercial port and two marinas.

AN106 Colombia to Panama

Most boats take their leave from Colombia in which belong to Panama and where one can clear
Cartagena, from where a direct course leads across and obtain the compulsory cruising permit at
the Gulf of Darien to the Panama Canal entrance. Porvenir (9"34'N, 78"57'.W).
From outside Cartagena, at WP AN1060 a course The area to be crossed is not subjected to trop-
can be set for WP AN1061, 10 miles N of Punta ical storms, although the effect will be felt if a hur-
Manzanillo. The course can then be altered for WP ricane occurs further north. During winter
AN1062, the landfall buoy at the entrance to the months passages along this route will be affected
Panama Canal. The above course passes outside by the large swell caused by the strong trade winds
the San Blas Islands and stays in deeper water to piling up the water in this corner of the
avoid the rougher seas further inshore. The voy- Caribbean.
age can be interrupted in the San Blas Islands,

122
 AN100 ROUTES IN THE CARIBBEAN SEA

AN107 Jamaica to Panama

A direct route (AN107A) leads to Panama from buoy in the approaches to the Panama Canal.
ports in the eastern part of Jamaica. The winds will For boats leaving from ports in the west of
be light while in the lee of the island, but outside Jamaic;:a, the route has to avoid a series of dangers,
Jamaica's wind shadow they will rapidly become and as some of their positions, as depicted on the
strong with large seas. The strong winds and high charts, are not entirely accurate, the area should
seas experienced on this route for most of the year, be approached with great caution. Having passed
combined with a strong west-setting current, call Point Negri!, at the western extremity of Jamaica,
for accurate navigation as the route passes dan- from WP AN1074 set course for WP AN1075 to
gerously close to a number of offshore banks. As pass between Rosalind and Serranilla Banks. The
the direct route to Panama leads close to the New course is then altered for WP AN1076 halfway
and Pedro Banks, sufficient allowance for leeway between Sueno and Serrana Banks, both of which
i should be made when setting a course to wind- have lights. The next WP AN1077 is 20 miles east
i ward of them. The area should also be avoided of Roncador Bank, from where the course can be
because of the breaking seas that occur over the altered for WP AN1073 at the entrance into the port
shallows. Both these banks can be very dangerous of Cristobal. Boats approaching the breakwaters
I in heavy weather and their vicinity should be
avoided. Another hazard is the many fishing boats,
at the entrance into the Panama Canal should call
Traffic Control on VHF channel 12. Traffic lights
I some of which do not show lights, as well as the
buoyed nets set on the banks.
regulate the passage between the breakwaters, but
small boats may pass if they keep dose to the side,
From WP AN1071 south of Plumb Point, in both when passing through the breakwaters and

II the approaches to Kingston, a course should be

set for WP AN1072 to pass well to the east of
the various banks. If leaving from one of the
ports on the NE coast of Jamaica, a course should
in the shipping channels.
Boats going straight to the San Blas fslands
should be aware of the poor visibility in their vicin-
ity as low cloud often obscures the mainland and
I be shaped around the east of the island and you
should make for the same waypoint AN1072. From
land may not become visible until a few miles
away. The official port of entry is Porvenir
II there it is a clear run to WP AN1073, the landfall (9 '34'N, 78'57'W).
J '.,
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i 123
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

AN1053. Both points are just outside the 1000 fath- As on most other routes in the Caribbean Sea,
om line, although strong winds and high seas can best conditions are encountered in either April-
be expected on this route, especially during the May, or November. Because the route crosses an
winter months. From waypoint AN1053 the area known for its rough seas, Aruba should not
course can be altered for WP AN1054 in the be left in winds over 30 knots, or if there is a fore-
approaches to the port of Cartagena. The area should cast of strong winds to come. The current will be
be approached with caution because of the dangers in one's favour almost all the way to Cartagena,
in the approaches. Also avoid the silted Boca with sets of 1.5 to 2 knots, altl)ough a counter-
Grande as the dredged entrance is Boca Chica, current may make itself felt in tlie last 20-30 miles
identified by a landfall buoy, close to the end of Isla to Cartagena. The <rrea around Cartagena is
de Tierra Bomba. An 8 mile long channel leads affected by a violent southerly wind called
northward through the shallow Bahia de chocosono, which can attain 50 or even 60 knots.
Cartagena to the commercial port and two marinas.

AN106 Colombia to Panama

Most boats take their leave from Colombia in which belong to Panama and where one can clear
Cartagena, from where a direct course leads across and obtain the compulsory cruising permit at
the Gulf of Darien to the Panama Canal entrance. Porvenir (9 "34'N, 78"57'.W).
From outside Cartagena, at WP AN1060 a course The area to be crossed is not subjected to trop-
can be set for WP AN1061, 10 miles N of Punta ical storms, although the effect will be felt if a hur-
Manzanillo. The course can then be altered for WP ricane occurs further north. During winter
AN1062, the landfall buoy at the entrance to the months passages along this route will be affected
Panama Canal. The above course passes outside by the large swell caused by the strong trade winds
the San Blas Islands and stays in deeper water to piling up the water in this corner of the
avoid the rougher seas further inshore. The voy- Caribbean.
age can be interrupted in the San Blas Islands,

122
r AN107 Jamaica to Panama
AN100 ROUTES IN THE CARIBBEAN SEA
I'

I,. A direct route (AN107A) leads to Panama from buoy in the approaches to the Panama Canal.
ports in the eastern part of Jamaica. The winds will For boats leaving from ports in the west of
be light while in the lee of the island, but outside Jamaica, the route has to avoid a series of dangers,
Jamaica's wind shadow they will rapidly become and as some of their positions, as depicted on the
I strong with large seas. The strong winds and high
seas experienced on this route for most of the year,
charts, are not entirely accurate, the area should
be approached with great caution. Having passed
combined with a strong west-setting current, call Point Negri!, at the western extremity of Jamaica,
I
I
for accurate navigation as the route passes dan-
gerously close to a number of offshore banks. As
from WP AN1074 set course for WP AN1075 to
pass between Rosalind and Serranilla Banks. The
the direct route to Panama leads close to the New course is then altered for WP AN1076 halfway
and Pedro Banks, sufficient allowance for leeway between Sueno and Serrana Banks, both of which
should l;>e made when setting a course to wind- have lights. The next WP AN1077 is 20 miles east
ward of them. The area should also be avoided of Roncador Bank, from where the course can be
because of the breaking seas that occur over the altered for WP Ai'l1073 at the entrance into the port
shallows. Both these banks can be very dangerous of Cristobal. Boats approaching the breakwaters
in heavy weather and their vicinity should be at the entrance into the Panama Canal should call
avoided. Another hazard is the many fishing boats, Traffic Control on VHF channel 12. Traffic lights
some of which do not show lights, as well as the regulate the passage between the breakwaters, but
I buoyed nets set on the banks.
From WP AN1071 south of Plumb Point, in
small boats may pass if they keep close to the side,
both when passing through the breakwaters and
the approaches to Kingston, a course should be in the shipping channels.
\. set for WP AN1072 to pass well to the east of Boats going straight to the San Blas Islands
I the various banks. If leaving from one of the should be aware of the poor visibility in their vicin-
I ports on the NE coast of Jamaica, a course should ity as low cloud often obscures the mainland and
1/.
1-;._.. be shaped around the east of the island and you land may not become visible until a few miles
should make for the same waypoint AN1072. From away. The official port of entry is Porvenir
there it is a clear run to WP AN1073, the landfall (9 "34'N, 78"57'W).

123
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

AN108 Jamaica to Central America and Mexico

Westbound routes from Jamaica benefit from both one has to use one of several passes through the
good winds and a favourable current during most reefs, Eastern Channel being the main shipping
of the year. The best time for passages along these channel.
routes is the transition months of April-May, before The route to the Gulf of Mexico passes close to
the hurricane season, or November before the onset the Cayman Islands, where the voyage may be
of winter northers, which may be felt west of interrupted at the capital Georgetown on Grand
Jamaica and can seriously aff.ect weather in the Gulf Cayman. From there the route continues towards
of Mexico and, to a smaller extent, further south. the Yucatan Channel and WP AN1083 off Cuba's
Boats leaving from ports on either side of Jamaica Cape San Antonio. Boats bound for ports in the
and bound for the Bay of Islands in Honduras Gulf of Mexico can wait for favourable conditions
(AN108A) should set course for WP AN1081 south to cross the Gulf at Isla Mujeres, an official port
of Swan Island. A convenient place to clear into of entry into Mexico, in which case a course should
Honduras is at Guanaja. The route to Belize also be set for WP AN1084, off that island's south point,
passes right by Swan Island. To reach Belize City Punta Sur.

AN110 ROUTES FROM THE BAHAMAS AND FLORIDA

ANlll Northbound from the Bahamas and Florida 126
AN112 Bahamas to Bermuda 127
AN113 Bahamas to the Eastern Caribbean 128
AN114 Bahamas to Panama and Central America 129
ANUS Florida to Bermuda 130
AN116 Florida to the Eastern Caribbean 130
AN117 Southbound from Florida 131

124
 AN110 ROUTES FROM THE BAHAMAS AND FLORIDA

~ BERMUDA

20°N

AN110
The low lying islands of the Bahamas and their rarely bring winds over 30 knots and mainly the
associated banks and reef areas offer a wide choice more northerly Bahamas are the most affected by ·,.
of anchorages, especially to shallow drafted craft. these northers.
Although cruised by a large number of boats, few Summer weather starts around May, after the last I
arrive in the Bahamas at the end of a long offshore norther has blown itself out, and lasts until '·
passage since most boats reach the islands in short November. The trades are more SE in the summer
hops, mostly from Florida. and most winds during these months are from E '
ij
The prevailing winds are from NE to SE with the or SE. During August and September there can be ·I
most northern islands lying on the edge of the trade periods of calms, especially at night. Jhe balmy jl

wind belt. As the islands are low there is no reg- summer weather can be interrupted occasionally
ular land breeze. Northers interrupt the NE by an Easterly Wave, a trough of low pressure
trades with regularity during the winter and typ- found in the trade wind belt. This is usually accom-
ically start with the wind veering to the S and SW. panied by showers and high humidity.
When the cold front arrives, the wind suddenly Sometimes Easterly Waves can degenerate into
shifts to the NW then N and usually blows itself tropical depressions and even hurricanes. May to
out in the NE. After a while, the normal winds take October are the wettest months and rainy squalls
over from more or less their usual direction. In occur during this season.
mid-winter, the cycle can take several days, in In Florida the prevailing winds are E and SE, but
spring only 24 hours. Most northers are dry, they become more variable higher up the coast,
although on occasions they can be accompanied tending to be more SW. Thunderstorms are more
by rain and thunder squalls. However, they very common in summer, although there are few

; ~, 125
;.&:
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLA NTIC TI
gales. However, in this season hurricanes can affect Atlantic. North of Florida these fronts bring strong
the eastern seaboard over the whole region,
those arising in the Atlantic usually approaching
SW gales, the wind veering W or NW behind the
depression.
I
from the E and SE. Tropical storms generated in The hurricane season is from June to November,
the Caribbean Sea come from the south and are although usually in June and Ju.ly hurricanes pass
more frequent in the months of September and to the south of the Bahamas. The most dangerous
October. The whole area is affected by weather con- months are August to October, but hurricanes have
ditions on the North American land mass and the been recorded as early as May.' and as late as
semipermanent anticyclone stationed there. As the December. The Bahamas have one of the highest
pressure rises, it develops into a norther, a N and frequencies of hurricanes in the North Atlantic, as
NW flow of cold air that blows hard for several they are in the path of hurricanes generated in both
days. During the winter, gales occur, as depressions the Atlantic and the Caribbean.
move across the southern states eastward into the

ANlll Northbound from the Bahamas and Florida

d
I·
Although there is a steady movement of boats favourable winds are highest and there is little or
I· between the Bahamas and Florida virtually no danger of either late northers or early hurri-
throughout the year, offshore passages to more canes. The latter danger increases with the
t northern states are restricted to spring and early
summer. This is the time when boats, which have
approach of summer, but even then offshore pas-
sages are feasible provided one leaves with a
11
passed the winter in the tropics, return home. favourable long term forecast. A stop in Bermuda
However, even at the best of times, some people is not really recommended, except for boats
prefer to forgo the attractions of a quick offshore bound for Canadian ports.
passage and instead take the Intracoastal Because of the favourable set of the Gulf
Waterway. Stream, the route should use this advantage to the
The best time for an offshore passage, especially maximum. However, if there is a likelihood of
for ports north of the Chesapeake Bay, is in spring strong northerly winds, it is better to forgo it and
and early summer, w hen the chances of wait for better conditions, if leaving from a port

i 126
" I
~------------------------- - -·---- - : :

AN110 ROUTES FROM THE BAHAMAS AND FLORIDA

in South Florida, or sail a more offshore route, if may continue in a NW direction before altering .,
leaving from the Bahamas or Northern Florida. course for the port of destination (ANI11 B). To take
For destinations south of Cape Hatteras, boats full advantage of the Gulf Stream, especially if
leaving from Florida have little choice but to sail one's destination is in North Florida or South
a course roughly parallel to the coast. Boats tak- Carolina, that initial course may have to contin-
ing an offshore route from the Bahamas, from WP ue in a NW direction so as to reach the area of the
AN1111, in the NE Providence Channel, should set strongest current closer to the Florida coast. Latest
an initial course for WP ANI112, NE of Great Abaco information on the location and strength of the Gulf
Island. From that point, boats bound for more Stream can be obtained from NOAA Miami, who
northern destinations can sail a direct offshore issue regular Gulf Stream flow charts, and can be
route (AN111A). Boats bound for southern ports contacted on Tel. (305) 665 4707.

AN112 Bahamas to Bermuda

Similar directions apply as for route AN115, which hurricane season officially starts in Bermuda on
is used by boats sailing from Florida to Bermuda. 1st June, hurricanes rarely pass that way before
The recommended time for a passage from the the end of July and even when they do, their path
Bahamas is late spring or early summer, w hen is to the west of Bermuda nearer to the American
weather conditions on this route will be better than mainland.
at any other time. If leaving from the Northern If the NE Providence Channel is used as a point
Bahamas a NNE course can be easily followed with of departure from the Bahamas, from WP AN1121
the help of the prevailing winds and the north set- a direct course can be set for WP AN1122 south
ting Gulf Stream. During the summer months the of Gibbs Hill, at the SW point of Bermuda. From
winds north of the Bahamas are usually from the there the course runs parallel to the island to WP
SE, so it is sometimes possible to sail a direct course AN1123 off St David' s Head. Town Cut leads into
from the Bahamas to Bermuda right through the St George' s Harbour, the official port of.entry into
Horse Latitudes. Light winds are sometimes Bermuda. The narrow cut, although well buoyed
experienced along this route and gales are very rare and lit, should not be attempted at night by those
at the recommended time of year. Although the unfamiliar with the area.

127
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

AN113 Bahamas to the Eastern Caribbean

Having reached the Southern Bahamas either by However, those whose destination lies further
one of the offshore routes or through the islands, south, should consider taking an offshore route from
the subsequent leg to the Virgins will be to wind- the Mona Passage onwards. Having sailed along
ward for most of the way and also for most of the the north coast of Hispaniola as far as Samana, at
year. The route has been called the 'thorny path', Mona Passage the route enters the Caribbean Sea.
and for very good reason. The best time to under- At the beginning of winter, NE winds ought to make
take it is at the change of seasons, when the trade it possible to reach some of the more southern
winds are lighter and the risk of hurricanes not so islands, such as Grenada or Trinidad, on one tack.
great. Another matter of concern, apart from the This route is not recommended towilrds spring
contrary winds, are the strong currents that occur when the winds become SE.
in this area. These, combined with the numerous An alternative chosen every year by numerous
reefs, low islands, and few lights call for accurate sailors is to sail the distance in short stages. The
navigation at all times. best tactics to be deployed are described in The
Those who are determined to sail offshore to Gentleman's Guide to Passages South, which is ded-
either the Virgins or Lesser Antilles, and are con- icated to this very route. The advice given in that
fident that their boat is capable of it, should gain book, and also by others who have sailed that dif-
the open ocean by the quickest way and set an east- ficult route, is to take one' s time and watch the
erly course as soon as possible. This avoids the weather carefully. Even in winter, when strong east-
strong NW current setting parallel to the Bahamas. erlies are the norm, the frequent fronts provide a
If the winds allow it, the due east course should respite of calms and light winds. The recommended
be held until the longitude of the port of destina- tactic is to sail ahead of such fronts and then run
tion is reached and course is altered to the south. for shelter as the front approaches. The weather
An offshore passage from the Southern is usually uncomfortable for 12 hours before a
Bahamas to the Virgins, either direct (AN113A) or frontal passage and for about 24 hours afterwards.
via Puerto Rico, can regain the ocean through the As the voyage may be interrupted in the Turks
Crooked Island, Mayaguana, Caicos, or Turks and Caicos Islands, entry formalities in those
Passages. The initial course should lead well clear islands can be completed at the following ports:
of all dangers, including the banks east of Grand Sapodilla Bay (Providenciales, 21 '44'N, 72'17'W),
Turk. A variation of such an offshore route is Cockburn Harbour (South Caicos, 21 '30'N,
described in AN11 6. Because of contrary wind and 71 '31'W), and Cockburn Town (Grand Turk,
current, such a passage would be very difficult; 21 '28'N, 71 '06'W). Convenient ports of entry on
unless the winds are northerly or light, an alter- the north coast of the Dominican Republic are
native route (AN113B) may have to be considered. Puerto Plata (19'49'N, 70 '42'W), Manzanillo Bay
This means staying south of Caicos and sailing (19'43'N, 71 '45'W), and Samana (19 '12'N,
along the north coasts of Hispaniola and Puerto 69'26'W). The official port of entry on Puerto Rico's
Rico. Even when the trade winds are strong these west coast is Mayaguez (18 '12'N, 67'07'W) and not
high islands provide some lee and light coastal Boqueron. Although a US territory, US boats must
breezes. clear into Mayaguez like everyone else. An addi-
Directions for boats sailing to one of the north- tional suggestion for those sailing along the
ern islands in the Lesser Antilles are very similar. south coast of Puerto Rico, especially at night, is

l?R
 AN110 ROUTES FROM THE BAHAMAS AND FLORIDA
1
AN114 Bahamas to Panama and Central America

to avoid the numerous fish traps. throughout the year, although both the hurricane
Regardless of the Bahamian port of departure, all season and the strong trade winds of winter should
variations of this route converge on the be avoided. In the latter case boisterous sailing con-
Windward Passage. Matthew Town, the main set- ditions can be predicted with certainty from
tlement on Great Jnagua Island, is a good place to January to March when the trades are at their
stop before negotiating the Windward Passage and strongest. The extent of the hurricane season is less
is used as a hypothetical departure point. A course precisely defined and the actual months when there
for WP AN1141, eight miles NE of Cuba's Cape is no danger of hurricanes are the same winter
Maisi, takes one into the southbound lane of the months from January to April. The intermediate
traffic separation zone which operates off that cape. months have a much lower frequency of tropical
Having negotiated the Windward Passage, the storms, but hurricanes have been recorded even
route to Panama can pass on either side of as late as December, making passages through the
Navassa Island, but its western side is to be pre- Caribbean more dangerous at the end than at the
ferred in strong winds as seas break on the shal- beginning of the season. This is the reason why
lows off the SW extremity of Hispaniola. A southbound passages should be planned for late
course should be set for WP ANll 42, IO miles west winter or early spring.
of Navassa Island. If a stop in Jamaica is not intend- For boats bound for Central American destina-
ed, the course leads to WP AN1143 about 20 miles tions, whether in Belize, Guatemala, or
SE of Morant Cays. From there, the course should Honduras, the westbound route from the
be altered for WP AN1144, the seabuoy off the Windward Passage runs between Cuba and
Panama Canal entrance. The recommended route Jamaica, with possible stops in either of those coun-
across the Caribbean Sea stays clear of the vari- tries as well as Grand Cayman, which is also close
ous banks and shallows. Allowance should be to the direct route. Details for the route wes_tward
made for leeway if passing close to Pedro and New of Jamaica are given in route AN108 (page 124).
Banks as the current sets towards them. Boats bound for the south coast of Cuba can clear
The winds are favourable along this route in at Santiago de Cuba (19"59'N, 75"53'W).

129
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

AN115 Florida to Bermuda

This passage is made mostly in May and June, when south of Gibbs Hill, at the SW point of Bermuda.
the chances of favourable conditions are better than From there the course runs parallel to the island
at any other time of the year. The timing suits most to WP ANl153 off St David's Head. Town Cut leads
people's plans as this route is sailed mostly by boats into St George's Harbour, the official port of entry
that have spent the winter in Florida and are using into Bermuda. The narrow cut, although well
Bermuda as a convenient point before continuing buoyed and lit, should not be attempted at night
towards the Azores, Northern Europe, or the by those unfamiliar with the area.
Mediterranean. The prevailing winds in early sum- The SW winds experienced at the start of this
mer are SW which, added to the favourable Gulf passage m~y become SE further offshore and occa-
Stream, can make for a speedy start to the passage. sionally these can last as far as Bermuda. Weather
The Miami office of NOAA issues regular Gulf forecasts should be listened to regularly during this
Stream flow charts and the latest information on passage as weather systems can change rapidly in
this can be obtained by telephoning (305) 665 4707. the areas crossed by this route. If the passage is
Provided there is no forecast of a late norther, the made early in the season, there is a real possibil-
Gulf Stream can be ridden for a while, but soon- ity of encountering strong northerly winds, in
er rather than later the direct course for Bermuda which case one should try to move out of the Gulf
must take priority. If leaving from ports in Stream as quickly as possible. Later in the season
Southern Florida, Grand Bahama Island and the there is the danger of tropical storms and, even if
reefs and islets to the north of it should be passed they do not develop into fully fledged hurricanes,
at a safe distance before the course is altered for depressions which form over the Bahamas usually
Bermuda. Having reached WP AN1151 off Grand bring squally weather and rough seas.
Bahama a direct course can be set for WP ANl 152,

AN116 Florida to the Eastern Caribbean

1'lll
 AN110 ROUTES FROM THE BAHAMAS AND FLORIDA

I
'I

The timing for a direct passage from Florida to the sailed too late in winter. Having reached the open
Eastern Caribbean is critical as a summer voyage sea through the NE Providence Channel, from WP
carries the risk of hurricanes and a winter voyage AN1161, the tack will be sailed which makes best
that of contrary easterly winds as well as norther- easting to WP AN1162, if bound for the Virgin
ly storms. Therefore the best time appears to be Islands, or AN1163, if bound for one of the ports
November, when the danger of hurricanes is low in the Lesser Antilles. From WP AN1162, the course
and winter gales are still rare. is altered for WP AN1164, so as to make landfall
The offshore route has the advantage that it can close to the island of Culebrita and approach St
also be sailed in winter, although it has the dis- Thomas from the north and west. An alternative
tinct disadvantage of strong contrary winds once way of approaching the Virgin Islands from the
the trade winds are met. The offshore route is more NE is described in route AN127(page141). Boats
attractive to boats starting from Northern Florida bound for Antigua should set a course from
as they can set a direct course, which stays clear AN1163 for AN1165, so as to approach the island
of the Bahamas. Boats leaving from ports in from windward. Landfall will be made at WP
Southern Florida can join that same offshore route AN1166, east of English Harbour.
by taking the NW and NE Providence Channels. An alternative way to reach the Eastern
In both cases the recommended practice is to make Caribbean is by the inter-island route that threads
one's easting along latitude 25"N and only turn its way through the Bahamas, Turks and Caicos,
south after meridian 65"N has been crossed . In Puerto Rico and beyond, an intricate and time con-
November and December the trade winds are mod- suming route that still does not avoid the strong
erate NE, but become E and stronger after headwinds which await one at the end. This alter-
January, so even this offshore route should not be native is discussed in detail in route AN113.

I:
1· ··
J:~i.
AN117 Southbound from Florida

l'{i.-
. '··
1d·

I .
.
.. 131
RO UTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

Many American sailors use Florida as a convenient or west of Cuba. The situation will undoubtedly
springboard to reach destinations south and change once that country's doors are fully opened
while this may work ou t well for some, for oth- to cruising boats and visiting sailors will be able
ers it may prove to be counterproductive. Mainly to enjoy its many attractions. In the meantime,
for those sailing from northern states, who are boats setting off from Northern Florida are prob-
bound for Central America, getting there via the ably better off sailing through the Bahamas and
Bahamas and Windward Passage makes more Windward Passage to reach Central America. The
sense than fighting one's way past Florida and answer is not so simple for boats leaving from
across the Gulf of Mexico. Southern Florida, for which both alternatives have
In the summer the prevailing winds in Florida certain attractions. Although Mexico itself is
are from the SE and the weather is rainy with heavy more easily reached by a direct route through the
squalls and calm periods. The Gulf of Mexico is Yucatan Channel, a voyage to Belize, Guatemala,
one of the areas most affected by hurricanes or Honduras by the same route is shorter but
between June and November, not only by those toug her, mainly because of the contrary current.
forming in the Gulf itself but also by those trav- In contrast, the roundabout route via the
elling from other areas of the Caribbean. From Bahamas and Windward Passage is considerably
September to N ovember hurricanes spawned in longer, but benefits from mostly favourable
the Western Caribbean are most likely to pass winds and current, and also offers the chance of
through the Yucatan Channel and then curve several interesting stops en route.
around north and east towards Cuba and Florida. The time of year when the passage is made will
Tornadoes, waterspouts, and squalls are also a fea- have a major bearing on the choice of route. In win-
ture of the hurricane season. ter, when strong E and NE winds can be expect-
The greatest dilemma faced by anyone planning ed, a d irect route through the Yucatan Channel is
a voyage from Florida to any of the countries bor- to be preferred, not just for destinations in
dering on the Caribbean Sea is whether to sail east Guatemala, Belize, or Honduras, but even as far

132
 AN110 ROUTES FROM THE BAHAMAS AND FLORIDA

as Panama. However, this may mean waiting until for WP AN1175, the landfall buoy marking the
favourable conditions set in. In winter, the rec- entrance into the Panama Canal.
ommended time to leave is immediately after a Increasingly boats stop in Cuba and a convenient
norther has blown itself out. The best time for a place to clear into that country is Marina
southbound passage, at least as far south as the Hemingway, west of Havana. The marina is
Yucatan Peninsula, is from mid-April to the end sometimes confusingly referred to as Barlovento
of June. At this time, winds may be light and one and the easiest way to find the entrance through
has to be prepared to motor. To avoid the full the reef is to identify the outer marker, whose GPS
strength of the current, which can be as high as coordinates are reported as 23"05.3'N, 82"29.3'W.
2.5 knots, it is recommended to either sail a route The entrance should not be attempted in s trong
which stays close to the Dry Tortugas, or cross over onshore winds when big rollers break all around
towards Cuba and follow that country's NW coast, the narrow pass through the reef. Guarda
but making sure one does not stray into its terri- Frontera should be contacted on VHF channel 16
torial waters. A good departure·point from the US when entering Cuban territorial waters.
is Key West. The northern route (AN117A) stays Hemingway Marina monitors channel 72.
just outside the 100 fathom line to WP AN1171 , 14 At the change of seasons, or in early summer,
miles south of the Dry Tortugas. From there a direct a route v ia the Windward Passage (AN117C) may
course can be set to pass through the Yucatan be more attractive than the one through the Yucatan
Channel to WP AN1172, two miles north of Isla Channel described above. From a port in North
Mujeres, a convenient place to clear into Mexico. Florida, such as St Augustine (AN1176), the
•:
From there one is in easy reach of the best cruis- Windward Passage is best reached by sailing on
ing grounds in Central America, whether in a SE course which avoids the Abacos to WP
Belize, Guatemala, or Honduras. ANll 77. There the route turns south to pass west
If not intending to stop in Mexico or carry on of San Salvador, Crooked and Acklins Island to WP
to Belize and Guatemala, it is probably better to AN1178, in Mira-Par-Vos Passage. A slight course
cross over from Key West to the Cuban side alteration will be needed to reach WP AN1179,
(AN117B) and sail along its coast to WP AN1173, eight miles NE of Cuba's Cape Maisi. From there
eight miles off Cape San Antonio. A weak but on, the route south of the Windward Passage is
favourable countercurrent may be experienced described in AN114. The southbound route across
along Cuba's north coast. Having passed through the Caribbean Sea is also joined in the Windward
the Yucatan Channel, a direct course leads to WP Passage by boats coming from ports in South
AN1174 between Sueno and Serrana Banks, both Florida, either via the Bahamas or through the Old
of which have lights. From there, course is altered Bahama Channel.

AN120 ROUTES FROM BERMUDA

AN121 Bermuda to USA 135
AN122 Bermuda to Canada 136
AN123 Bermuda to Northern Europe 137
AN124 Bermuda to Gibraltar 137
AN125 Bermuda to Azores 138
AN126 Bermuda to Lesser Antilles 140
AN127 Bermuda to Virgin Islands 141
j•
Bermuda occupies such a strategic position in the
Western Atlantic that even those planning not to
will explain why this cluster of islands surrounded
by reefs was first settled by shipwrecked :I
stop there find it difficult to bypass this attractive Englishmen on their way to America. In more
island. Although good protection is assured in its re~ent times a shipping exclusion zone has been
well sheltered harbours, the approaches to declared around Bermuda's shores, and ships are
Bermuda are dangerous and a brief look at the chart warned to keep their distance unless they intend

133
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

to call there. However, with reliable lights ·and June to 30th November, the greatest frequency
clearly marked channels, the approaches are not occurring from August until October. In winter
too dUficult, unless one attempts to make landfall high winds and gales strike the island, February
at night or in a southwesterly blow, neither of being the worst month with an average of 8 gales.
which are recommended. Around 1000 cruising boats call at Bermuda
Bermuda is in the Horse Latitudes, the region every year, most of them spending only a few days
of variables north of the trade wind zone and south there before setting off for new destinations.
of the westerlies. There is no prevailing wind and Bermuda is the finishing point-of various races
the weather of the island is affected by two main from the US east coast, the biannual race from
systems, the position of the Azores high and the Newport being one of the longest established off-
flow of weather systems over the eastern shore races in the world. Most people, however,
seaboard of the United States into the Atlantic. In use Bermuda as a convenient springboard either
summer the Azores high is the dominating feature to the Caribbean or to the Azores and Europe. The
and produces SW winds of around 15 knots. The routes radiating from Bermuda are very season-
Gulf Stream also influences the climate, making al, the spring, from April to June, being busy with
the water around Bermuda warmer and keeping boats returning home either to North America or
the winters mild. Hurricanes cannot be ignored, Europe. At such time, European boats are in the
although most of these tropical storms which form majority and in Bermuda they are joined by US or
in the North Atlantic curve to pass to the west of Canadian boats also bound for Europe. The sum-
Bermuda, very few storms passing directly over mer sees mainly a two-way traffic from the USA
the island. The hurricane season is officially 1st as the hurricane season keeps most people away

40"W 20•w

MADEIRA'

CAPE VERDEv
ISLANDS

40' W

AN120 Routes from Bermuda

134
 AN120 ROUTES FROM BERMUDA

from the Caribbean, while the autumn brings a new themselves felt as far north as 40'N. Under such
influx of North American boats on their way south. circumstances, even the accepted practice of
Those starting their transatlantic voyage in heading north to pick up the prevailing wester-
Bermuda are confronted with a serious challenge lies would make no difference.
and there are few routes described in this book on Passages to the United States are very much a
which access to up-to-date weather information matter of luck as they can be fast and comfortable
is of such paramount importance as the route to with southerly winds, or a hard beat if north-
the Azores. The position of the North Atlantic high westerly winds are generated by a depression pass-
or anticyclone, commonly referred to as the ing to the north. Because of the north-setting Gulf
Azores high, ought to be known at all times and Stream, passages to ports south of Cape Hatteras
a course chosen accordingly. Occasionally, are a difficult undertaking. However, the Gulf
uncommon easterly winds slow down the boats Stream does not affect passages to the Eastern
making their way to the Azores in spring. This is Caribbean, which are best undertaken at the change
due to the Azores high being situated much far- of seasons, betweeen the middle of November and :I
ther north than its normal position for an unusu- early December.
ally long time, allowing easterly winds to make

AN121 Bermuda to USA

..'

l
i'

Summer passages to most ports on the US east sages, in both directions, can be made in late spring
coast normally benefit from pleasant weather and and early summer. The high frequency of SW
the only thing to spoil the picture is the risk of trop- winds in summer should provide good sailing con-
ical storms whose tracks pass too close to ditions to most ports lying north of Cape Hatteras,
Bermuda for comfort. Such storms, however, are but this is rarely the case. Even in May and June,
kept under such close observation from the the weather can often tum quite mugh and the
moment they start forming that warnings are usu- worst conditions have been recorded in the area
ally given long before they are likely to strike. of the Gulf Stream. The passage of cold fronts from ,.
Nevertheless, passages during the months with the continental America produces unsettled weather, '~ '
highest frequency of hurricanes, from August to which is often accompanied by violent rain
the end of October, should be avoided. Safer pas- squalls. This can be particularly dangerous in the

135
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

Gulf Stream, when a strong wind blows against their departure at WP AN1212 off North Rock.
the equally strong current and therefore the Gulf Because of the multitude of destinations and result-
Stream should always be crossed at right angles ing routes, only landfall waypoints for the main
to minimise the time spent in it. A ride in the Gulf destination have been given, AN1213 SE off
Stream should only be attempted if the weather Brenton Reef, for boats bound for Newport, or
is settled. AN1214 at the entrance into the south channel lead-
Depending on weather conditions on leaving ing into the Chesapeake Bay. For those not famil-
Bermuda, the island can be left either to port or iar with the USA, who are sailing there at the
starboard before course is set for one's port of des- beginning of the summer season, a ·useful tip is to
tination. If a SW course can be sailed after leav- start their cruising as far north and east as possi-
ing the island, the point of departure will be ble, so as to benefit most from the warm weather
WP AN1211 , SW of the island and well clear of all and also the reduced risk of hurricanes, and then
dangers. Boats going around the north of work their way gradually to the south.
Bermuda and leaving the island to port will take

AN122 Bermuda to Canada

Weather conditions for this route are similar to avoid being caught on one of the banks where the
AN121, although the optimum time for sailing it strong wind will generate very rough seas.
is somewhat later. One added complication is that Similar action should be taken if there is a threat
at the beginning of summer passages to ports in of a northerly gale while riding the Gulf Stream.
Newfoundland can be affected by ice. Fog is yet Taking WP AN1221 north of Bermuda as a depar-
another consideration on these routes and these ture point, a direct course (AN122A) leads to WP
factors limit northbound passages to the high sum- AN1222 in the approaches to Halifax, Nova
mer. Favourable conditions can be expected at this Scotia. Leaving from the same waypoint AN1221,
time because of a high proportion of SW winds. the course for St John's, Newfoundland
Earlier passages, at the end of May or in June, may (AN122B), uses WP AN1223 SE of Cape Race, as
also benefit from favourable winds, but a careful an intermediate point before course is altered for
eye should be kept on the weather and should there WP AN1224 off Cape Spear in the approaches to
be a gale warning, the course should be altered to St John's.

136
 AN120 RO UTES FR OM BE RMUDA
I
i
AN123 Bermuda to Northern Europe I:

The nonstop route to Northern Europe is far less may be necessary to go to 40 "N or even further
popular than AN125, as most sailors prefer to stop north to reach the area of prevailing westerlies.
in the Azores, conveniently placed about halfway While the frequency of gales is lower to the south
between Bermuda and Europe. However, the direct of the recommended route, the temptation to turn
route has the advantage over route AN125 that east too soon should be resisted because of the dan-
once the prevailing westerly winds have been ger of losing the westerlies as one enters the Azores
found they can usually be held for most of the high which extends further north in summer. The
crossing. On leaving Bermuda, from WP AN1230 Gulf Stream runs along most of this route and a
it is recommended to sail a NNE course to WP favourable rate of at least 1/2 lsnot can be expect-
AN1231 before altering course for WP AN1232. ed. Boats that have tried to follow th e great circle
Having reached that point, the great circle route route all the way from Bermuda to the English
to the English Channel can be joined. It must be Channel have experienced prolonged calms as the
stressed that both are highly hypothetical points, route crosses the area of high presswre, hence the
as the main objective of the exercise is to reach as two recommended waypoints. In the absence of
quickly as possible the area of prevailing wester- reliable weather information it is therefore rec-
ly winds. To avoid the southern limit of ice, in early ommended to make the crossing in higher, rather
summer it is recommended that the latitude of WP than lower, latitudes. Hurricanes rarely affect this
AN1232 is not passed. If one has access to either route outside the immediate vicinity of Bermuda,
weather or ice information, and knows what to but late summer passages are nevertheless dis-
expect in the immediate future, or if favourable couraged because of the violent storms that occa-
SW winds are found right from the start, the great sionally occur in the Eastern Atlantic after the
circle route can be joined directly. Occasionally it middle of August.

!i
AN124 Bermuda to Gibraltar

137
 ROUTES I N THE NORTH ATLANTIC

Boats bound for the Mediterranean have the choice miles west of Cape St Vincent. It is unlikely that
of sailing nonstop from Bermuda or the more pop- westerly winds will continue beyond WP
ular alternative of breaking the voyage in the AN1242, as the prevailing winds of summer in the
Azores. The direct route should follow similar vicinity of the Portuguese coast are northerly.
instructions as AN123 so as to make most of the Instructions for the section between Cape St
Atlantic crossing with the help of the prevailing Vincent and Gibraltar are described in detail in
westerly winds and east setting current. Taking route AN16 (page 44).
one's leave from WP AN1240 NE of Bermuda, a A stop in the Azores will provide an interest-
course should be set for WP AN1241. Depending ing interlude, but will add considerably to the pas-
on weather conditions, the· .crossing should be sage. Allowance should also be made for a slower
made as close as feasible to latitude 40 'N, or even passage from the Azores to continental Europe. For
higher if conditions warrant it. From WP AN1242 more details see routes AN125 and AN134 (below
the course can be altered for WP AN1243, seven and page 146).

AN125 Bermuda to Azores

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 AN120 ROUTES FROM BERM UDA

The Azores are situated in such a convenient posi- itude 38 °N encountered calms as they entered the
tion in mid-Atlantic that very few boats choose to ridge of high pressure that extends between
sail nonstop from Bermuda to Europe. Because Bermuda and the Azores much earlier than if they
Bermuda lies to the south of the region of pre- had kept further north. Sooner or later the Azores
vailing westerlies, the recommended strategy is high will slow down any,boat making this passage,
to make as much northing as possible after leav- . but by approaching the Azores from the NW rather
ing Bermuda in the hope of picking up favourable than the west, the ridge of high pressure will be
winds around latitude 40"N. The advantages of this crossed at right angles and the time needed to cross
somewhat indirect route (AN125A), which goes it will be shorter. At such times the use of the
north of 40"N, are a greater certainty of W or SW engine is recommended and, particularly if tak-
winds and a favourable current. The disadvantages ing a southern route, a good supply of fuel should
are a higher frequency of gales and a colder and be taken on board before leaving Bermuda.
wetter passage than along a more southerly Taking WP AN1250 as a departure point from
route which does not go beyond latitude 38°N . Bermuda, boats sailing on route AN125A are rec-
Opinions are divided as to which is the best course ommended to set a course for WP AN1251 and
to follow and in fact some people prefer to forgo remain on that latitude to WP AN1252. In late
the chance of favourable winds and, in their spring, the course should not go above latitude
attempts to find the most pleasant alternative, fol- 39"N because of the risk of ice. If weather condi-
low a rhumb line to the Azores (AN125B) . This tions are favourable, the same latitude should be
option may indeed ensure warmer weather, but maintained as far as WP AN1253, 60 miles NW
is often bedevilled by calms and headwinds. If the from Corvo and Flores, the westernmost islands
northern route is sailed in late spring or even early in the Azores. From this point, course can be altered
summer, it is advisable not to sail beyond 40"N for one's port of destination.
before WP AN1252 is reached, because of the dan- Boats bound for Lajes, on the SE coast of Flores,
ger of ice in the early part of summer. should make landfall at WP AN1254, off Ponta do
May and June are the best months to make this Ilheus, the SW extremity of Flores and then fol-
passage, a later start being preferable if the low the south coast of the island to Lajes. The recent
northern route is chosen. If this decision is taken, improvements to Lajes have made it an attractive i:
'I
it is best to commit oneself fully to that route and first port of call into the Azores. If bound direct- :I
sail almost NNE on leaving Bermuda so as to enter ly for Horta, which continues to be the favourite ,.I
the region of-westerlies as soon as possible. After Azorean destination, from WP AN1253 course
the beginning of July, the risk of hurricanes should be set for WP AN1255, five n1iles SW of !i
·i
becomes increasingly higher in the area around Ponta do Castello Branco, and then sail along
Bermuda and this passage should only be made Faial's south coast, which is the recommended way
at such time if absolutely necessary. The risk of hur- to approach Horta. In strong SW winds, if Horta
ricanes recedes as one moves east across the is approached from the north, allowance should
Atlantic, although the effects of a hurricane can be made for a strong contrary current in the chan-
be felt as far east as the Bay of Biscay. nel between Faial and Pico. ·
Looking at the records of passages made over Boats following a rhumb line from Bermuda
a number of years, it soon becomes obvious that (AN125B), can set a direct course from WP
the slowest passages were made by those who were AN1250 for AN1254, if bound for Lajes das Flores,
not prepared to go far enough north in search of or for WP AN1255, if bound for Horta. ·,
'
westerlies. Most of those who stayed south of lat-

139
 r ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

AN126 Bermuda to Lesser Antilles

It is difficult to suggest an optimum time for this side Town Cut, a direct course leads to WP AN1261,
passage as the summer carries the danger of trop- 15 miles east of Barbuda. "I:he course is then altered
ical storms and the winter that of northerly gales. for WP AN1262, off Antigua' s SE coast. Entry for-
The best time to make this passage is at the change malities can be completed at English Harbour. U,
of seasons, when the risk of hurricanes has abat- as suggested above, it is impossible to make suf-
ed and the frequency of winter storms is accept- ficient easting to approach the Antilles from wind-
ably low. Most boats making this passage actually ward, a course should be set for WP AN1263, 5
do it at the best time which fortunately coincides miles north of Sombrero light at the entrance into
with most people's cruising plans. North Anegada Passage. From there course is altered for
American boats passing through Bermuda in WP AN1264 NW of St Martin and finally for WP
November are all on their way to the Eastern AN1265 off Antigua' s west coast. From there the
Caribbean for the start of the winter sailing season. south coast is followed to English Harbour,
In November or early December, the winds on unless one prefers to complete formalities in the
leaving Bermuda can be from any direction, and capital St Johns, in which case the course for the
if they are light it is advisable to m otor so as to latter should be changed earlier.
make the necessary southing. Having passed Although a passage along this route during the
through the belt of variables, the NE trade winds hurricane season cannot be recommended, fair
' ~
r should be found between latitudes 22'N and 25 'N. weather can be expected at the beginning of sum-
As the northern approaches to the Lesser Antilles mer when the risk of hurricanes is n ot very high.
are quite dangerous because of the many unlit If southerly winds are encountered on leaving
reefs, as much easting as possible should be made Bermuda, which is quite likely, these should be
in the early part of the passage so as to pass well used to make some easting before the trades are
'~ to windward of all dangers and approach found near latitude 25 'N. Occasionally the sum-
Antigua from the NE. If this proves to be too mer trades do not have a southerly component and
i difficult, it is better to choose an easier landfall then it may be possible to sail a direct course to
)I
, I

I
and continue to Antigua, or any other island, in the Leeward Islands, Antigua being one of the eas-
I : shorter stages. iest to approach. Otherwise it may be necessary
I! Taking as a departure point WP AN1260 just out- to make landfall in the Virgins as mentioned above.

140
 AN130 R OUTES FROM THE AZORES

AN127 Bermuda to Virgin Islands

The same directions apply as for route AN126 until Island, which has a powerful light, and approach
the area of trade winds has been reached. Taking the Virgins from windward rather than try and
as a departure point WP AN1270 just outside Town make landfall directly on St Thomas. In such a case
Cut, a direct course lead s to WP AN1271, eight a course should be set for WP AN1272, 15 miles
miles NE of the light on Culebrita Island. Keeping NW of Sombrero light at the entrance into
at a safe distance to avoid the dangers off the west- Anegada Passage. The latter course is in any case
ern point of St Thomas, that island's south coast recommended for destinations in the British
is followed to its main port of Charlotte Amalie. Virgins. Arriving from a NE direction, the near-
Approaching the Virgin Islands from the north, est port of entry is at Virgin Gorda. However,
as suggested above, may present some difficulties extreme attention should be paid to the numerous
as most dangers are unlit. As an alternative, it d angers surrounding the Virgin Islands.
might be advisable to make a landfall on Sombrero

AN130 ROUTES FROM THE AZORES

AN131 Azores to Ireland 143
AN132 Azores to English Channel 143
AN133 Azores to Portugal 145
AN134 Azores to Gibraltar 146
AN135 Azores to Madeira 147
AN136 Azores to Canary Islands 147
AN137 Azores to Bermuda 148
AN138 A zores to USA 149
AN139 Azores to Canada 149
Approximately 1000 boats pass through the boats are on their way to either Northern Europe
Azores every year, the majority arriving there from or the Mediterranean. These are the two main
the Caribbean, either direct or via Bermuda. During routes taking boats away from the Azo.res. Boats
July a few boats arrive from North America and bound for the English Channel and beyond are usu-
Northern Europe, but the traffic is confined ally faced with a tougher passage as the prevail-
mainly to the months of May and June, when most ing winds in early summer, when most of these

141
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

passages are made, are from the NE. Those same although those from the western sector are slight-
winds make the passage to the Mediterranean an ly more frequent. Close to land the wind is deflect-
easier affair. ed, especially where t.h e coastline is steep and the
The weather in the Azores themselves is very direction of the wind varies from island to island
changeable and this is probably the main reason and place to place. The weather in the Azores is
why most people do not cruise the islands and also affected by the lows which pass a'c ross ·t he
instead confine themselves to only one stop, usu- Atlantic from west to east. These usually pass to
ally the marina in Horta. The opening of a second the north, except in winter when they can pass
marina in Ponta Delgada and improvements to sev- directly over the islands. When one of these fronts
eral ports, notably Lajes on the island of Flores, passes, the winds change quickly, veering from SW
may well change matters. to NW and bringing rain. Rain occurs in all months,
The Azores boast an Atlantic climate, of which although more falls in winter, especially associated
the dominant feature is the area of high pressure with the Atlantic lows. Although not in the hur-
named after them. The position of the Azores high ricane belt, extremely rarely a rogue hurricane has
varies with the season, being more to the north in taken an abnormal path to pass near the Azores,
October and furthest south in February. It usual- but is generally weakened by the time it reaches
ly lies to the S or SW of the islands and in sum- that far. There is a moderate frequency of gales over
mer is often stationary, when prolonged periods the Azores, of which more occur in · winter
of calm can be expected. At other times the winds months.
are very variable in both strength and direction,

. [I
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AN130 Routes from the Azores
1
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!I' 142
 AN130 ROUTES FROM THE AZORES

AN131 Azores to Ireland

The same general directions apply as for route course for WP AN1311 one mile SE of Ilheu de
AN132, but as destinations in Ireland are more Baixo, a small islet off Graciosa's SE extremity. A
westerly than those in the English Channel, the northerly course can then be set to pass east of
suggestion to sail due north on leaving the Graciosa. In strong SW winds, shelter can be sought
Azores does not have to be followed slavishly as at the well protected port of Praia (39'03'N,
it does not matter too much if some leeway is made 27'58'W), on Graciosa's east coast, although such
to the west. This can be corrected later with the winds should really be used to advantage.
help of the westerlies that normally prevail in high- If leaving from Ponta Delgada, Sao Miguel's
er latitudes. Calms are sometimes experienced in south coast should be followed as far as Ponta do
the vicinity of the Azores, particularly in July and Amel, its easternmost headland, to WP ANI313
August, when the Azores high reaches its maxi- from where a course can be set for one's d estina-
mum pressure of the year. Calms and light va'ri- tion. In strong NE winds, it is better to sail west
able winds might also be encountered en route, so on leaving Ponta Delgada and take one's leave
one should leave with a good supply of fuel. With from the Azores at WP AN1314 off Ponta da
the exception of the odd sunny day at the start, Ferraria at the NW extremity of Sao Miguel.
the weather along this route is invariably grey, wet, Landfall is made at WP AN1315, in the approach-
and cold. es to Cork H<Jrbour, one of the best protected ports
Boats leaving from Horta should pass close to on the south coast of Ireland. Entry formalities are
the western extremity of Sao Jorge and then set completed in Crosshaven.

AN132 Azores to English Channel

143
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

II
f

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The prevailing winds of summer are NE and there- both this fact and the presence of strong tidal cur-
fore all passages from the Azores to Northern rents, as well as the large amount of shipping, must
Europe are usually close hauled. A direct course all be borne in mind when making a landfall on
for the English Channel is rarely possible, nor is the English coast.
it advisable, as the westerly winds and east- Boats leaving from Horta should pass close to
setting current that prevail in higher latitudes will the western extremity of Sao Jorge and on to WP
set the boat into the Bay of Biscay. The usual tac- AN1322 one mile SE of Ilheu de Baixo, an islet off
tic for this route is to sail due north until steady Graciosa's SE point. From there, a northerly
westerly winds are encountered, but not to join the course is set to reach the area of prevailing west-
great circle route to the English Channel before lat- erly winds at which point the course can be altered
itude 45•N has been reached. for WP AN1327.
In the area immediately to the north of the If leaving from Ponta Delgada, Sao Miguel' s
Azores calms are frequent, their extent depend- south coast should be followed as far as Pon ta do
ing on the position of the Azores high and the ridge Amel, its easternmost headland, to WP AN1323.
of high pressure that normally extends from it In strong NE winds, it is better to sail west on leav-
towards Europe during summer. If such calm spots ing Ponta Delgada and take one' s leave from the
are.encountered one should be prepared to motor Azores at WP AN1324 off Ponta da Ferraria, Sao
through them and make the desired northing. Even Miguel's NW extremity. A course should then be
if there is no wind, the weather will be fine and set for WPs AN1325 and AN1326 on the rhumb line
sunny before it gives way to westerly winds, over- to the English Channel, where landfall will be made
cast skies, and generally wet and cold weather. at WP AN132710 miles south of Lizard Point. A
Summer weather for the English Channel is dif- convenient place to clear into the United Kingdom
ficult to predict and the winds can come from any is the port of Falmouth (50"09'N, 5 "04'W).
direction and at any strength. Visibility can
become poor in the approaches to the Channel and

144
 AN130 RO UTES FROM THE AZORES

AN133 Azores to Portugal

Favourable winds can be expected for most of the so as to approach the coast slightly to windward
way if this passage is made at the beginning of of the intended port.
summer. The winds in the vicinity of the islands Boats that have cruised the Azores from NvV to
are variable, with a predominance of SW winds. SE will find it more convenient to take their depar-
In May and early June a belt of calms is usually ture either at Ponta Delgada on Sao Miguel, or Vila
crossed somewhere between the Azores and the do Porto, on Santa Maria. In the former case, a
mainland before entering the area of prevailing direct course for the Portuguese mainland can be
northerly winds. At times the calms can be quite set from WP AN1331 south of Pon ta da Gar~a, on
extensive and one should be prepared to motor. Sao Miguel's south coast. If leaving from Santa
Steadier winds can be expected towards the mid- Maria, the departure point is WP AN1332 off that
dle of summer. During July and August the strong island's Ponta do Castelo, on Santa Maria's SE ii
•I
Portuguese trades, blowing at a steady 15-20 knots,
make this a fast and exhilarating trip. Such
northerly winds will be encountered from about
extremity. Boats bound for Lisbon (AN133A)
should make their landfall at WP AN1333. From
there the South Channel leads into the Tagus River
ii
I.

300 miles off the Portuguese coast. Occasionally, on whose north shore lies the Portuguese capital.
if the Azores high is located north of the islands, The route to Vilamoura, on the Algarve coast
NE winds may be experienced all the way across (AN133B), leads due east to WP AN1334, 6 miles
to Portugal. Because of the prevailing winds, north- south of Cape St Vincent. Avoiding the heavy traf-
ern ports on the Portuguese coast will be to wind- fic passing though the area, the course should be
ward if a rhumb line is sailed from the Azores. This altered for WP AN1335, one mile SW of
should be taken into account, and also the south Vilamoura. The marina monitors VHF channels 16
setting Portugal Current, when final course and 20.
adjustments are made for the port of destination

145
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

AN134 Azores to Gibraltar

Directions as far as Cape St Vincent are the same Two convenient ports from where to dep~rt the
as those for AN133 and similar weather conditions Azores are Ponta Delgada, on Sao Miguel, or Vila
can be expected until the route comes under the do Porto, on Santa Maria. In the former case, a
influence of continental weather. East of Cape St direct course for the Strait of Gibraltar can be set
Vincent, the Portuguese trades are normally lost from WP AN1341 south of Ponta da Gar~a, on Sao
and winds become more local in character. On sum- Miguel's south coast. If leaving from Santa Maria,
mer days, a SW sea breeze occurs on approaching take your departure from WP AN1342 off that
the Bay of Cadiz. This wind comes up around noon island's Ponta do Castelo. A direct course should
and lasts until midnight. If a strong Levanter is pre- be set to WP AN1343 in the approaches to the Strait
dicted in the Strait of Gibraltar, it is advisable to of Gibraltar. From there, sail due east to WP
wait for a change in one of the ports along the AN1344, two miles south of Tarifa Island by stay-
Algarve coast (Vilamoura), Costa de la Luz ing inshore of the westgoing shipping lane. A
(Mazagon, near Huelva), or Bay of Cadiz (Puerto course parallel to the Spanish coast will take one
Sherry). Another convenient port is Barbate, into the Bay of Gibraltar. The reporting dock for
which is not far west of Tarifa and is the closest customs and two of the marinas are easiest found
to the Strait. Alternatively, one can find some shel- by making for WP AN1345 off the North Mole.
ter in the lee of Tarifa Island itself. The latest weath- Detailed directions for negotiating the Strait of
er information, as well as other shipping news, can Gibraltar are given in route AN16 (page 44).
be obtained from Tarifa Radio, which operates a
24-hour service in both Spanish and English.

146
 AN130 ROUTES FROM THE AZO RES

AN135 Azores to Madeira

The winds between these two Portuguese outposts Porto, a direct course can be set for WP AN1351
are usually favourable and the likelihood of NE off Ponta do Pargo at Madeira's western end. From
winds increases as one approaches Madeira. A there the course runs parallel to Madeira's SW coast
good d eparture port from the Azores is Vila do to the capital and main port Funchal. Funchal mari-
Porto on the island of Santa Maria as it is the near- na monitors VHF channel 16 during office hours.
est to Madeira. From WP AN1350 south of Vila do

AN136 Azores to Canary Islands

Both winds and current are usually favourable on logical order. The direct route from the Azores to
this passage. If the intention is to cruise the Canaries Lanzarote (AN136A) passes so close to Madeira as
it is best to sail first to one of the eastern islands of to make a stop there almost unavoidable.
the Canarian archipelago, such as Lanzarote. This Directions for the route to Madeira are described
will ensure favourable winds during the subsequent in AN135. The subsequent section from Madeira to
cruise and also allows the islands to be visited in the Canaries is dealt with in route AN41 (page 65).

147
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

The direct route from Ponta Delgada or Santa Maria If the Canaries are only used as an intermedi-
to Lanzarote (AN136A) bypasses Madeira and goes ate stop to prepare for a transatlantic passage, it
NE of the Salvagem Islands. Landfall is made at WP may be more convenient to only call at one of the
AN1363, about 5 miles NW of Graciosa, before enter- western islands, such as La Palma (AN136B).
ing Estrecho de! Rio, the channel separating Course should be set for WP AN1364 NE of the
Graciosa from Lanzarote. Although not a port of island' s capital, Santa Cruz de la Palma. This is an
entry, boats may stop for a short time at La Sociedad, excellent place for reprovisioning the boat for the
the main port and settlement on Graciosa, before onward passage.
proceeding to Lanzarote and clearing in there. -·'
AN137 Azores to Bermuda

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For most sailors contemplating this passage, the ommended to sail as much as possible on
Azores are only a convenient stop on a longer voy- Bermuda's own latitude. This may even entail
age, and so is the stop in Bermuda. Horta used to going further south, to be assured of favourable
be the traditional starting point for the passage to winds. li westerly winds are encountered in the
Bermuda, but the improvements to the port of early part of the voyage, one should stay on the
Lajes, on Flores, now makes it possible to start one's starboard tack even if it means going as far south
voyage at the western extremity of the Azorean as latitude30'N. In summer, the further south one
archipelago. However, as the recommended tac- · sails, the higher the proportion of easterly winds.
tic is to reach the latitude of Bermuda as soon as The one disadvantage of a late summer passage
possible, the advantage of starting from Lajes is is the increased risk of hurricanes in or around
minimal. From whichever port one leaves, it is Bermuda.
essential to obtain a long term weather forecast. If leaving from Horta, from WP AN1371 set a
U westerly winds are forecast it is best to wait for first course to WP AN1373. Boats leaving from
a change rather than try to beat one's way west- Lajes at WP AN1372 should follow the same direc-
ward. The recommended time, in June or July, is tions and also set course for the same intermedi-
not necessarily the one with the most favourable ate waypoint. From that point, the route should
winds, but with the best chance of good weather. follow closely the latitude of Bermuda, as
In summer the predominant winds on the direct described above. Landfall is made at WP AN1374,
route, and especially north of latitude 35'N, are two miles from Town Cut at the entrance into St
SW and there is also a contrary current, so it is rec- George' s Harbour.

148
 AN130 RO UTES FROM THE AZORES

AN138 Azores to USA

A difficult decision to be taken on leaving the sailing to ports lying further NE may find it pos-
Azores is whether or not to call at Bermuda. If a sible to alter course from about longitude 55 "W for
stop in Bermuda is envisaged, the same directions their port of destination. Because of the multitude
apply as for route AN137. Otherwise, it is proba- of destinations and resulting routes, only landfall
bly better to wait and see what the weather does, waypoints for the main destinations have been
then sail a course which does not take one too far given, AN1382 SE of Brenton Reef in the
away from the recommended route to Bermuda, approaches to Newport, for boats heading for that
so as to be able to stop there if necessary. The port, or AN1383 at the entrance into the south chan-
chances of finding favourable winds above lati- nel leading into Chesapeake Bay.
tude 35 °N are quite low, which only reinforces the If this passage is made after the middle of June,
argument for making the passage close to, or even the risk of an early tropical storm should be borne
below, the latitude of Bermuda. Therefore, a stop in mind as the tracks of previous hurricanes pass
there becomes almost unavoidable, especially for through the area between Bermuda and continental
boats bound for ports south of New York. Those USA.

AN139 Azores to Canada

149
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

Directions are similar to those for route AN138 and should take their departure from Horta at WP
similar tactics are suggested if westerly winds are AN1391. The landfall point for Halifax, in Nova
encountered after leaving the Azores. Going on to Scotia, is WP AN1392. Boats bound for St John's,
a port tack too early in the voyage carries the risk in Newfoundland, should make their landfall at
of making too much northing and entering an area WP AN1393 SE of Cape Race, before altering course
of steady westerlies and also a contrary current. for WP AN1394 off Cape Spear in the approach-
Particularly in the case of boats with modest es to St John's.
windward performance, a southerly route, as The recommended time for this passage coin-
described above, has certain attractions. Further cides w ith the start of the hurricane season in the
west, one may find that SW winds, which pre- Western Atlantic, so the weather should be
dominate in summer west of meridian 50'W, will observed carefully, especially as one approaches
allow them to go on to the port tack around that Bermuda, or if a stop there is being considered .
point. Boats setting off on a southern route

AN140 ATLANTIC ROUTES

FROM NORTH AMERICA
AN141 North America to Northern Europe 152
AN142 North America to Mediterranean 154
AN143 North America to Bermuda 154
AN144 North America to Azores 155
AN145 North America to the Eastern Caribbean 157
AN146 North America to Bahamas 159
AN147 North America to Panama 160
The number of boats sailing nonstop to Europe alternative way of reaching the Caribbean by a
along the higher latitudes has decreased consid- longer but more attractive route is described at the
erably in recent years and most North American beginning of this chapter, when routes in the North
boats reach Europe via Bermuda and the Azores. Atlantic are discussed (see page 37): Routes from
For anyone planning a long offshore voyage from Florida are described in AN110(page125).
one of the ports north of Chesapeake Bay, Eastbound passages from North America are
whether to the Caribbean or Europe, the first land- undertaken mostly in late spring or early summer,
fall is usually Bermuda. Those heading for the from May until July, when best conditions can be
Virgins or Lesser Antilles have a choice of an off- expected. Regardless of the destination, the Gulf
shore passage, either via Bermuda or direct. If the Stream will have to be crossed at some point, and
port of departure is north of Cape Hatteras, a stop because of the difficulties associated with this it
in Bermuda would not add too many miles, but is advisable to obtain the latest information con-
from ports situa ted further south a direct course cerning the strength and direction of the Gulf
makes more sense. Beaufort in North Carolina is Stream. The best sources are the Gulf Stream flow
a favourite point of departure for the annual south- charts issued regularly by NOAA. Anyone leav-
bound exodus and the most common landfall is ing on a direct passage to the Caribbean must take
St Thomas in the US Virgins. Those who leave from into account the strength of the Gulf Stream as well
ports south of the Carolinas are often tempted to as the possibility of strong northerly winds blow-
beat their way through the Bahamas, which may ing against the current, a combination which can
not be a solution to everyone's taste as strong east- turn the passage into an extremely uncomfortable
erly winds are likely to be encow1tered most of the experience. If adverse conditions persist it is prob-
way. All the above passages to the Caribbean ably better to make for the nearest continental port
should be made after the beginning of November and continue the voyage south inside the
when the hurricane season has come to an end. An Intracoastal Waterway, a solution taken every year

150
r AN140

4o•w
ATLANTIC ROUTES FROM NORTH AMERICA

20•w

=
AZORES

MADEIRA•

CAPE VERDE.-
ISLANDS

40•w

AN140 Atlantic routes from North America

by those who have either left the passage to the up to 40 °N, which is the region of New York, and
Caribbean too late or were not fortunate enough their tails may affect areas even further north, par-
to meet the right conditions for this offshore pas- ticularly in late summer and autumn. Between
sage. The problem is often compounded by the fact Cape Hatteras and Cape Cod, summer weather is
that, for many sailors, the passage to the determined very much by the North Atlantic high
Caribbean may be their first serious offshore pas- and although winds are variable, there is a high
sage. Naturally they regard this test with certain proportion of SW winds. East of Cape Cod coastal
apprehension and, equally naturally, tend to weather is influenced by the landmass more than
wait for a perfect weather window to set off. by the ocean, the weather systems moving gen-
Unfortunately the optimum time for southbound erally in a west to east direction. Rain}"' thunder-
passages is relatively short and that hoped for per- storms occur in June, July, and August and often
fect window may not occur, so the opportunity is there is coastal fog, especially in the mornings. A
missed and other alternatives need to be consid- lot of local variations occur in this area with sea
ered to reach their distant goal. Some of these alter- breezes on some coasts and frequent wind shifts.
natives are described in the section AN116 The prevailing winds · in the Cape Cod to
describing routes starting from Florida (page 130). Newfoundland area are SW or S, which veer to NW
The area from Cape Hatteras to Cape Cod is in as depressions pass over. In summer there are few
the region of variable winds and is also strongly gales and the wind is lighter inshore than at sea.
affected by weather on the continental landmass, The area from Maine to Newfoundland and over
with winter northers and gales generated by fronts the Grand Banks is affected by fog, particularly in
moving from west to east. Hurricanes can reach the spring and summer. This is caused by a S or

151
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

SW wind bringing warm moist air over the sea, spring and summer up to July, when the polar ice
which is kept cool by the Labrador Current. A care- is breaking up, icebergs are sometimes carried south
ful lookout for the many fishing boats and lobster into the area off Newfoundland. The US coast and
pots in this area must be kept when visibility is poor. Nova Scotia are normally out of the iceberg zone.
A northerly wind tends to clear the fog. Also in

AN141 North America to Northern Europe

A cold, wet, and foggy route at the best of times, es of concern for those who undertake this pas-
a t least it has the advantage of both favourable sage: fog and ice. Both of them are linked to the
winds and current. The great circle route is the Labrador Current, a cold current that flows along
obvious choice for a fast passage to Northern the coasts of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia. Fog
Europe, but for destinations south of the Bay of is caused by warm air blowing over the cold waters
Biscay some of the alternatives ought to be con- brought down from the Arctic by the Labrador
sidered. These are described in routes AN123, Current which also carries icebergs south during
AN124 (pages 137), as well as AN143 and AN144. the summer. As the North Atlantic warms up with
Having chosen the great circle route, some of the the advance of summer, fog becomes less frequent
problems which affect this northernmost route and the icebergs also start melting, although they
must be considered first. There are two main ca us- sometimes drift as far south as latitude 40"N.
'
152
 f
AN140 ATLANTIC ROUTES FROM NORTH AMERICA

Therefore the latter part of summer appears to be be westerly around lS-20 knots, occasionally high-
safer and the recommended time for this passage er. The frequency of gales in August is low for these
is August. This might be too late for those who latitudes and calms are rare. As the route passes
intend to do some cruising in Northern Europe well to the north of the Azores high, the weather
during the same summer and the alternative is should be outside of its direct influence, but there
either to leave earlier and brave the dangers or take might be an effect if the high does move north. If
a more southerly route (AN141C). the Azores high is located In its usual position, the
The great circle route from US ports passes south weather is more likely to be affected by one of the
of Nova Scotia and Newfoundland from where it lows moving eastwards across the Atlantic from
splits into a northern branch, going round the north North America to Europe. In higher latitudes, such
of Scotland towards Scandinavia (AN141B), and lows can produce gale force NE or E winds. The
a southern branch to the English Channel favourable effect of the Gulf Stream becomes less
(AN141A). The most difficult parts of the voyage noticeable eastwards of about longitude 40 °W,
are the first few hundred miles until the concen- where it changes its name to the North Atlantic
tration of fishing boats on the Grand Banks has Current.
been left behind and also the area with the high- Route AN141B, which is the great circle route
est risk of fog and icebergs, close to passing north of Scotland, uses the same waypoints
Newfoundland. For all the above reasons, but also to WP AN141S, south of Sable Island . From there,
because better sailing conditions will be found fur- if there are no reports of ice en route, a course can
ther south, the great circle course should not be be set for WP AN1419 off Scotland's·Cape Wrath.
joined before meridian SS ·wis passed. Naturally, Boats leaving from Halifax should also use WP
if conditions warrant it, the great circle course to AN141S before joining the great circle route to WP
the port of destination can be joined earlier, but AN1419, whereas boats leaving from St John' s can
in the absence of reliable weather information, it join that route directly.
is safer to follow the above advice. In this case, Boats from the US east coast sailing the south-
boats leaving from Newport, and using as a depar- ern route (AN141C), should set an initial course
ture point WP AN1411 off Brenton Reef, should for WP AN1413. The main objective of this is to
.,·i
sail first to WP AN1412 off Nantucket Shoal, to stay avoid the southern limit of ice and, in early sum- ·I
well clear of the various shoals. This suggestion mer, it is recommended that the latitude of this
also applies to boats leaving from New York. In waypoint is not passed. Occasionally, provided
late spring, or even early summer, the course may there is no danger of ice, it may be necessary to
have to dip south to WP AN1413 and stay on this go to 40 "N or even further north to reach an area
latitude until longitude SSW is reached, as sug- of prevailing westerlies. The frequency of gales is
gested earlier. lower to the south of the recommended route, but
The initial course for boats leaving from one should not be tempted to turn east too soon
Halifax, Nova Scotia, bound for the English because of the danger of losing the westerlies as
Channel leads to WP AN1415 south of Sable Island. one enters the Azores high which extends furthest
Only if there are no reports of ice on that latitude north in summer. The Gulf Stream runs along most
can the course be altered for the next WP AN1416. of this route at a favourable rate of at least 1/ 2 knot.
Otherwise it may be advisable to sail to WP In the absence of reliable weather information it
AN1413, as suggested above. Boats leaving from is therefore recommended to make the cr-0ssing in
St John's, Newfoundland, and also bound for the higher, rather than lower, latitudes. Hurricanes J'
English Channel, are so far within the ice zone that rarely affect this route east of Bermuda, but late
i-
passages early in the season should not be summer passages are nevertheless discouraged i
attempted unless one is confident that there is no because of the violent storms that occasionally
such danger. Eastbound passages from St John's occur in the eastern Atlantic after the middle of
can join a great circle course directly. August.
The winds in late spring and early summer will

1S3
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

AN142 North America to Mediterranean

Most of the suggestions made in route AN141 are should be made on or close to this latitude to WP
also valid for passages to the Mediterranean. AN1424. Having reached that point, the course can
However, as better conditions can be expected be altered for WP AN1425, 7 miles WSW of Cape
around latitude 40'N, the route should stay as close St Vincent. For the rest of the passage, detailed
as possible to this latitude. From the point of depar- instructions are given in routes ANJ 24 (page 137)
ture, such as AN1421 off Brenton Reef, a course and AN16 (page 44). The latter should be consulted
should be set to pass through waypoints AN1422 for details on tactics for negotiating the Strait of
and AN1423. In late spring or early summer the Gibraltar. Boats bound for the Mediterranean
initial course should not go above 39 °N. should also consult route Mll (page 449) .
Depending on weather conditions, the crossing

AN143 North America to Bermuda

154
 AN140 ATLANTIC ROUTES FROM NORTH AMERICA

Early summer passages from any port on the US winter norther which can produce extremely rough
east coast should not be too difficult as the pre- conditions when blowing against the Gulf
vailing SW winds are favourable, even if it may Stream. Therefore passages in November should
entail a close hauled passage for boats sailing out be carefully timed and the weather developing ov.er
of ports north of New York. Provided a favourable continental USA watched closely. .
forecast has been obtained before leaving, the cross- Regardless of the port of departure, the Gulf
ing of the Gulf Stream should present no problems. Stream should be crossed at right angles and once
In the early summer the weather is usually pleas- clear of its influence, a course can be set for WP
ant and even if the winds are light, at least the AN1434, five miles SW of Gibbs Hill at Bermuda's
weather is warm. The occasional depression SW point. As it is easier to approach the island from
forming over the Bahamas and then following a the SW, the course runs parallel to the island as far
NE track can produce squalls and rough seas, but, as WP ANl 436 to reach Town Cut leading into St
at the recommended time, they are the exception George's Harbour. Boats approaching Bermuda
rather than the rule. Later in the summer partic- from the NW may find it more convenient to make
ular attention must be paid to hurricanes devel- landfall at WP AN1435. Approaching the island
oping in the Caribbean as their tracks usually pass from the north is more difficult as several dangers
between Bermuda and the mainland. Because of have to be left to starboard to reach that same WP 'I
this risk passages to Bermuda after the end of July ANl 436, close to the Town Cut. The narrow chan-
are discouraged. September and October are the nel, although well buoyed and lit, should not be
months with the highest incidence of hurricanes. used at night by anyone not familiar with the area.
Although the danger of hurricanes diminishes after Bermuda Harbour Radio should be contacted on
the end of October, from early November onwards VHF channel 16 for pilotage information.
there is an increasing risk of encountering an early

AN144 North America to Azores

155
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

The advantage of this direct route to the Azores Azores. From this point, course can be altered for
over route AN125, which originates in Bermuda, one's port of destination.
is that the latitudes of prevailing westerly winds Boats bound for Lajes, on the SE coast of Flores,
can be reached sooner. Directions for the initial should make landfall at WP AN1448, off Ponta do
course are similar to those given for routes !Theus, the SW extremity of Flores and then fol-
AN141 and AN142. Having reached WP AN1444, low the south coast of the island to Lajes. The recent
the same directions apply for the continuation of improvements to Lajes have made it an attractive
the passage as for route AN125 from Bermuda first port of call into the Azores. If bound direct-
,:j (page 138). Boats leaving from ports to the south ly for Horta, which continues to be the favourite
Ii· of Cape Hatteras (route AN144A) normally ride Azorean destination, from WP AN1441 course
the Gulf Stream to latitude 40 'N before turning east should be set for WP AN1449, five miles SW of
once steady westerly winds have been found. Ponta do Castello Branco, and then sail along
Although latitude 38'N has been mentioned as the Faial's south coast, which is the recommended way
recommended turning point, during the summer, to approach Horta. In strong SW winds, if Horta
when the Azores high extends farther north, con- is approached from the north, allowance should
sistent westerly winds will only be found in high- be made for a strong contrary current in the chan-
er latitudes so one has to be prepared to go as far nel between Faial and Pico.
north as 40'N. For boats leaving from ports east From May to July, mostly SW winds can be
of New York (AN144B), the area of prevailing west- expected for the first part of the passage. The dan-
erlies can be reached sooner, although one should ger of early hurricanes should be borne in mind
stay clear of the Nantucket Shoals, as .suggested especially if leaving from southern ports, but up
in route AN141, by using WP AN1443 as an inter- to the middle of July the risk is reasonably low. A
mediate point of reference. If weather conditions rhumb line course along a southerly route is only
are favourable, the same latitude should be main- recommended if one is prepared to motor
tained as far as WP AN1441, 60 miles NW from through the area of calms and variable winds that
Corvo and Flores, the westernmost islands in the may be encountered in those latitudes. Direction's

156
 AN140 ATLANTIC ROUTES FROM NORTH AMERICA

for such a direct route are similar to those for the swell. Therefore one should avoid leaving if there
route from the Lesser Antilles to the Azores (route is any likelihood of a hurricane developing dur-
AN79 page 95). For boats leaving from Canadian ing the first week or ten days. This should be pos-
por ts, whether in Nova Scotia (AN144C) or sible by consulting the weather charts for the entire
Newfoundland (AN144D), a late spring or early North Atlantic, as the depressions which devel-
summer start is not very attractive and for this rea- op into tropical storms usually take a long time
son most boats set off on a passage to the Azores to reach maturity and are usually carefully
and Europe in July or even August. The one risk tracked. In the eventuality of being caught out by
to watch out for is a hurricane, because even if one a hurricane on the way to the Azores, it is safer
can avoid the direct path of such a storm, one to stay offshore and. run with the wind and swell.
would still be affected by the strong winds and

AN145 North America to the Eastern Caribbean

t'

: I
.,

;,
I

157
ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC l
There are several alternatives to reach either the WP AN1454, 15 miles NW of Sombrero light at the
Virgin Islands or Lesser Antilles from ports on the entrance into Anegada Passage. Arriving from this
east coast of the USA and Canada, and the ultimate direction, the nearest port of entry in the British
choice depends mainly on the type of boat and the Virgins is at Virgin Gorda. Utmost caution should
experience of the crew. The most direct route leads be exercised in this area because of the numerous
well offshore and should be attempted only with dangers surrounding the Virgin Islands.
a thoroughly tested boat and crew. If the voyage For boats bound for Antigua on a direct offshore
starts from any port east of New York, a stop in route (AN145C), a direct course s,hould be set for
Bermuda can be contemplated as it does not great- WP AN1455, 15 miles east of B~rbuda, so as to
ly lengthen the distance. However, as the frequency approach Antigua well from windward and clear
of gales in November around Bermuda is rather of any dangers. The course is then altered for WP
high, such a d etour may not be necessarily the wis- AN1456 off Antigua's SE coast. Entry formalities
est choice. One solution is to make the pass11ge to can be completed at English Harbour. If, as sug-
Bermuda earlier in the summer, spending some time gested above, it is impossible to make sufficient
there and carrying on to the Virgins or Lesser easting to approach Antigua from windward, a
Antilles later in the year, although it must be course should be set for WP AN1457, 5 miles N of
stressed that the threat of hurricanes in Bermuda Sombrero Island (AN145D). From there course is
is very real in summer. Directions for southbound altered for WP ANl 458 SW of St Martin and final-
passages from Bermuda are described in routes ly for WP AN1459 off Antigua's SW coast. From
AN126 and Al'\1127 (page 140-1). there the south coast is followed to English
The timing for a direct passage to the Virgins Harbour, unless one prefers to complete formali-
(AN145A) is critical as a summer voyage carries ties in the capital St John, in which case course for
the risk of hurricanes and a winter voyage that of the latter should be changed earlier. .
northerly storms. Therefore the best time appears Rather than take one of the offshore routes
to be November, when the danger of hurricanes is described above, some people prefer to make the
low and winter gales are still rare. The winds down southbound voyage through the Intracoastal
to about latitude 30'N are normally NW and espe- Waterway. This can be done during the summer so
cially when these are strong the Gulf Stream should that one is ready to go offshore as soon as the hur-
be crossed as quickly as possible. If the winds are ricane season has come to an end. Having reached
from SW, the starboard tack should be preferred a port south of Cape Hatteras, such as Beaufort, it
as any ground lost to the east will be easily recu- is strongly recommended to go offshore immedi-
perated when the NE trade winds are found some- ately. Leaving with a favourable forecast from a port
where between latitude 22 'N and 25'N. If this such as Beaufort (AN145B) an easterly course
passage is made at the end of spring, easting should should be steered to cross the Gulf Stream as quick-
be made in the early part of the voyage to com- ly as possible after which a course can be set for
pensate for the SE slant of the trades later on. the Virgins. To avoid beating against the trade
Making easting is less important in November when winds it is best to set a course that intersects the
the predominant d irection of the trade winds is NE. meridian of the port of destination in about lati-
Having passed through the area of variable tude 25 'N. This means that the islands are
winds, boats bound for the US Virgins should alter approached from a better angle in relation to the
course for WP AN1453, eight miles NE of the light prevailing wind.
on Culebrita Island. Keeping at a safe distance to Whereas a direct offshore route to the Eastern
avoid the dangers off the western point of St Caribbean from more northern ports, such as
Thomas, that island's south coast is followed to its Beaufort, is feasible, trying to do the same from
main port of Charlotte Amalie. However, making ports in Florida will entail a lot of windward work
landfall in the Virgin Islands from the northerly as the winds become more easterly as latitudes
direction may be difficult as most dangers are unlit. become lower. This is the reason why those
The alternative (AN145B) is to make landfall on intending to reach the Eastern Caribbean by an off-
Sombrero Island, which has a powerful light, and shore route are urged not to leave on such a pas-
approach the Virgins from NE rather than try and sage from ports south of North Carolina.
make landfall directly on St Thomas, as suggest- Alternative routes from Florida to the Eastern
ed above. In such a case a course should be set for Caribbean are described in AN116 (page 130).

158
 AN140 ATLANTIC ROUTES FROM NORTH AMERICA

AN146 North America to Bahamas

A direct route to the Bahamas from ports north of miles in this direction before changing course for
Cape Hatteras should only be considered if the des- the Bahamas. In light winds or calms, it is advis-
tination is in the Southern Bahamas because the able to use the engine to move away quickly from
route has to go a fair distance to the east to avoid the coast and the Gulf Stream. Perhaps the easi-
the strength of the Gulf Stream. Mainly for this rea- est landfall in the Bahamas is the island of San
son, many boats reach the Bahamas by covering Salvador, which stands clear of all dangers and has
at least part of the distance in the Intracoastal a powerful light on its NE extremity, although a
Waterway. The offshore section of the voyage is more convenient landfall is NW of the island, at
only attempted from one of the ports south of Cape WP AN1464. Entry formalities can be completed
Hatteras, such as Beaufort, Morehead City, or at Cockburn Town, the main settlement on the west
Charleston. There is a fairly narrow window for side of the island, although the officials are often
such a passage and the recommended time is to be found at the airport. There is an anchorage
November. An earlier start carries the risk of hur- off the settlement or a small marina one mile fur-
ricanes, whereas a later start runs the risk of the ther north. Riding Rock Marina has a difficult
winter northers which can produce dangerous con- entrance with a maximum depth of 7 ft at high tide.
ditions in the Gulf Stream. The frequency of hur- The GPS latitude of the entrance channel into the
ricanes after the beginning of November is small marina has been reported as 24 "03.4'N. The
reasonably low and a good forecast obtained before marina can be contacted on VHF channel 6.
departure should warn both of existing tropical Although Bermuda is nowhere near the direct
depressions and of impending northers. route, some people prefer to make the detour to
The course on leaving the coast should lead in that island and reach the Bahamas in this way.
a ESE direction so as to cross the Gulf Stream at Southbound routes from Bermuda are described
right angles. One should proceed for at least 100 in AN127.
·i
"

159
 ROU TES IN THE NORTH ATLA NTIC

AN147 North America to Panama

As the direct route from ports in North America Mayaguana, but as its main settlement Abrams
to Panama has to pass through the Bahamas, few Town is not a port of entry, San Salvador is
boats do it without stopping there. The best times preferable.
are at the change of seasons and the recommend- The trade winds are usually lost in the lee
ed routes are described inAN146. The difficult part of Hispaniola and winds are often light in the
of a nonstop passage is the crossing of the Windward Passage but they are picked up again
Bahamas, where shallow banks, extensive reefs, and as one moves south. The remaining waypoints
unpredictable currents call for accurate navigation. mark the route across the Caribbean Sea, which

!
As suggested in AN146, it is best to sail directly stays east of Jamaica and the reefs south of that
to the Southern Bahamas (AN147A) and make land- island. Landfall in Panama is made at WP
fall on San Salvador at WP AN1474. The route from AN1478, at the entrance into the Panama Canal.

~I
there crosses the Southern Bahamas through the Boats approaching the breakwaters at the
Crooked Passage, passing west of Acklins Island entrance into Cristobal should call Traffic Control
and through the Mira-Por-Vos Passage and WP on VHF channel 12. Traffic lights regulate the pas-
AN1475. The route reaches the Windward sage between the breakwaters, but small boats may
Passage at WP AN1476, off Cuba 's Cape Maisi. pass if they keep close to the side, both when pass-
r. An alternative landfall in the Bahamas is at ing through the breakwaters and in the shipping
:II

i~ 160
 AN140 ATLANTIC ROUTES FROM NORTH AMERICA '·
channels. Further details about the Panama Canal favourable forecast is essential for the first leg
are given on page 489. across the Gulf Stream, after which winds should
· The best months for the passage south are be E or SE for most of the way to the Bahamas. For
May-June and November, when favourable the passage through the Caribbean, favourable
winds can be expected for most of the way and both winds will also be found in winter, from
the danger of hurricanes and winter northers is December to April, although the strong trade
acceptably low. The second half of May and the winds can make sailing in the Western Caribbean
first half of November are considered the best times uncomfortable. The route south of the Bahamas is
for a nonstop passage to Panama. lf leaving from described in detail in AN114 (page 129).
one of the ports in North Carolina (A TJ47C), a

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161
 6
TRANS EQUATORIAL
ROUTES IN THE
ATLANTIC
he best way to sail from one hemisphere to the becoming narrower to the west. Therefore by cross-
T other has preoccupied mariners ever since early
explorers discovered the zone of calms that sepa-
ing the doldrums well to the west they may be tra-
versed in a shorter distance.
rates the trade wind systems of the two oceans. As a result of Captain Maury's work, based on
'The well known equatorial embarrassments' is thousands of observations obtained from the
how Alexander George Findlay refers to the dol- mariners whom he had persuaded to fill in special
drums in his Memoir of the Northern Atlantic Ocean logbooks provided by him, it was suggested that
published last century, a comprehensive book in the equator should be crossed between the merid-
which he tries to bring together all that was known ians of 30 "W and 31 "W. As these recommendations
I at the time abou t the wind systems of the North were primarily directed at vessels sailing from
'I Atlantic. The best strategy for tackling the dol-
drums is discussed in great detail, because fast pas-
North America to either Cape Horn or the Cape of
Good Hope, the directions were later modified for
1 sages across the equator were still of utmost transequa torial voyages originating in Europe so
~j importance to the masters of sailing ships linking as to take full advantage of the seasonal changes
of weather which affect the doldrums. Specific
1' Europe and North America with the rest of the
world before the opening of the two great canals directions for each month are necessary not only
and the proliferation of powered vessels. because of the seasonal movement of the ITCZ but
The first meteorologist who tried to put wind also because the direction of the SE trade winds
and weather observations on a proper scientific tends to be more southerly when the sun is north
basis was an officer in the US Navy, Captain of the equator than when it is south.
Matthew Fontaine Maury, w ho started collecting Another debate between masters of south-
weather information in a methodical way in the bound sailing vessels was the best way to sail
early part of the nineteenth century and originat- around the Cape Verde Islands, whether to west-
ed the pilot charts. Although primarily concerned ward or between the archipelago and the African
with the weather of the North Atlantic and the best coast. Taking up the challenge of Captain Maury's
ways to speed up passages between the United arguments in favour of a westerly crossing of the
States and Northern Europe, Captain Maury's equator at all times of the year, the Royal
research also dealt with passages across the equa- Netherlands Meteorological Institute p ublished a
tor. The main dilemma faced by ships plying comparative study of the routes followed by a
between the two hemispheres was where to cross number of Dutch sailing ships, botl1 inside and out-
the doldrum belt. It had been known for a long time side of the Cape Verde Islands. The passage times
that the Atlantic doldrums have a triangular shape of the 455 Dutch vessels were then compared with
with their base lying along the African coast, the times taken by 144 American vessels, many of
between the Cape Verdes and the equator, and them clippers, which had also chosen either the

162
 AT10 SOUTHBOUND R OUTES

inside or outside route on their voyages across the drums continue to this day and the dilemma has
equator. The results of the combined experience of still to be resolved . The optimum strategy for
599 vessels makes fascinating reading, even if the southbound transequatorial routes is a major con-
conclusions are not as clear cut as expected. Many sideration for the skippers and navigators of the
more ships (340 Dutch, 111 American) decided to various round the world r aces, who rack their
stay west of the islands than east (114 Dutch, 34 brains over which route will give them the best run
American), but the mean times showed only one to either the Cape of Good Hope or the Horn just
day in favour of those that went outside. It does as the masters of yesterday's clippers did before
appear that the western track is to be preferred and them. However, with ever improving satellite
the only time when the inside passage might be observations, the doldrums might finally give up
advantageous is between December and February, their secrets and land based weather routeing ser-
but the advantage is so small that the final decision vices can now advise even small sailing boats on
as to which route to pursue should be determined the best way to go. Much of the fun and excitement
by other considerations, which will be discussed in will be taken out of route planning, bu t at least
connection with the relevant routes. those 'equatorial embarrassments' will cease to be
The controversies caused by the Atlantic do!- a nuisance.

AT10 SOUTHBOUND ROUTES

ATll Europe to South Africa 165
AT12 Canary Islands to South Africa 166
AT13 North America to South Africa 167
AT14 Canary Islands to Brazil 168
AT15 Cape Verde Islands to Brazil 169
AT16 West Africa to Brazil 169
AT17 Lesser Antilles to Brazil 170
The best longitude to cross the equator depends close to the west of the islands by keeping along
very much on the p osition of the Intertropical meridian 26'W. The alternative route insid e the
Convergence Zone at the time of the passage. Cape Verde Islands will be discussed later. At this
Fortunately satellite pictures show its exact posi- time of year southerly winds will be met around
tion, which can help those with access to this data latitude 4 'N and the equator should be crossed
to decid e on the best strategy. The ITCZ changes between longitudes 26 'Wand 28 'W. Between May
not only its location but also its shape, being nar- and July the same directions apply, but an attempt
rower in one area and wider in another. Being able should be made to make some easting below the
to cross it at, or near, its narrowest part can be a Cape Verde Islands so as to cross the equator at
great advantage and the results of several recent 25'W or 26'W.
races were decided on the equator. The transequatorial routes are influenced from
Whereas racing boats usually sail nonstop over the middle of July onwards by the SW monsoon, J,
long distances, their requirements are very differ- w hich blows on the African side of the Atlantic
ent from those of cruising sailors whose passages
are influenced by many considerations, of which
between the equator and the Cape Verde Islands.
During these months easting can be made with the
d
speed is not necessarily the most important. help of the SW winds south of latitude 10 'N and the
Immediate cruising plans, proximity of convenient equator should be crossed along meridian 23 'W.
provisioning ports, and a host of other factors may After August the crossing points move gradually
have to be weighed before a final decision is made west, being 25 'Win September and 27"W or 28 'W
as to the best course of action. in October. During these months southerly winds
As the great circle route from Europe to the South may be met between 7'N and 8'N. In November
Atlantic passes close to the Cape Verde Islands, and December it is advisable to make some easting
between January and April one should try and pass sou th of the Cape Verde Islands, so as to cross

163
 TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE ATLANTIC

4o•w 2o•w

..
AZORES

" BERMUDA

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20'$
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1jl
1il
'ji 40•s
o TRISTAN DA CUNHA

40'5
I 4-0'W 20°W 20'E

I
11·.11
ATlO Southbo1111d routes

meridian 25-W in about 6°N, from where the tack

giving most southing should be taken to enable the
equator to be crossed not further west than 29-W.
These instructions are only guidelines, because
for it is also important to have sufficient easting in
hand to be able to keep the SE trades on the port
tack past the bulge of South America.
Because on some routes intermediate way-
ti conditions vary from year to year and a different points cannot be given, only departure and desti-
strategy might have to be applied if the SE trades nation waypoints are indicated. Therefore the
ll! are met further north. For a southbound voyage distances shown are great circle distances unless

i
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I
across the equator the most convenient place to
cross the doldrums is not the only consideration,
otherwise indicated.

.ill
~t/I
,,11
 l

AT10 SOUTHBOUND ROUTES

AT11 Europe to South Africa

The optimum time to round the Cape of Good Those who have decided on a westerly route
Hope limits the departure from Europe to one or should make some westing on leaving the English
two months. Most favourable conditions around Channel and set a course to pass west of Madeira.
.,.
the tip of Africa can be expected between December A decision will have to be taken at that point
and February and therefore boats bound for Cape whether to go inside or outside the Cape Verde
Town should plan to arrive off the Cape of Good Islands and the various alternatives are described
Hope during that period. Therefore, the best time in AT10. Steadier winds are usually found on the
indicated above refers to passing the actual Cape west side of the Cape Verdes, and if such a route
and not to the entire passage. Because a winter is taken some easting must be made south of the
departure from Northern Europe could hardly be islands so as to arrive in the SE trades at a better
recommended, it is presumed that boats setting off angle.
on this passage would either arrange to leave ear- Boats leaving from ports in Southern Europe
lier and stop somewhere en route, or leave from a should follow directions as for AN32 as far as the
place in Southern Europe, such as Gibraltar or Canary Islands from where the same directions
Vilamoura, from where a winter departure should apply as for AT12. If a nonstop passage is pre-
pose less of a problem. ferred, the route from Gibraltar passes between '·
Directions for boats leaving the English Channel Madeira and the Canaries and joins the route
are similar to those described in AN13 (page 42). from Northern Europe in longitude 20' W (WP
Having crossed the Bay of Biscay, skippers of AT115). Normally the SE trades will have been \:·,,
southbound boats are faced with the dilemma of found by the time the equator is crossed and in
whether to take an easterly or westerly route. The November-December they usually extend to lat-
winner of the first leg of the Whitbread Round the itude 5'N. At this time of year the recommended
World Race in 1993 was decided by the choice of longitude for crossing the equator is between 27"W '
.!
route and therefore the strategy should be based on and 29"W. Although such a crossing normally ben-
the latest weather prognosis available. An easter- efits both from better winds and a narrower belt
ly route will pass east of the Canaries and, of doldrums, some people prefer to make more
depending on the time of year and expected weath- easting north of the equator and carry this advan-
er conditions, either east or west of the Cape Verde tage through into the SE trades. The risk of such
Islands. See also routes ANIS and AN 52 (pages 46 an action is the risk of having to cross a wider band
and 74). of doldrums.

165
TRANSEQUATORlAL ROUTES IN THE ATLANTIC

South of the equator the object ls to make as much the South African coast, care must be taken not to
easting as possible while still in the SE trades, be swept northward by the strong current. Ideally
which usually reach as far south as 23 'S. Beyond the Cape Town should be approached from the SW.
southern limit of the trades the winds are variable. Occasionally the SE trades extend further south
Between 25'S and Cape Town the predominant and make it difficult to make sufficient easting
direction of the winds during summer is norther- above latitude 30"5. In such a case the route might
ly so that it should not be too difficult to make east- have to take a more southerly dip jlnd pass dose
ing in these latitudes. However, because there is a to Tristan d a Cunha. A stop in tl\.is remote and
much higher proportion of easterly winds in the windswept island ls well worth a small detour and
eastern half of the South Atlantic, such easting the warm welcome from its lonely inhabitants will
should not be made too early. Having lost the trade make up for the rough anchorage. As the main
winds, the route loops towards the Cape of Good anchorage is exposed, i t must be left if the weath-
Hope crossing meridian 20W in about 30"5, 10W er deteriorates. See also routes AS21 , AS22, and
in 32 "S, and 0 ·in 35 "S. The rest of the voyage will AS23 (pages 188, 189 and 190).
be made on the latitude of Cape Town. On nearing

AT12 Canary Islands to South Africa

As the route from Europe to Cape Town passes SSW and passes dose to 'the NW of the Cape Verde
dose to the Canaries, most boats which are not Islands. This route to the west of the Cape Verdes
actually racing stop in these island s on their way is to be preferred between October and January,
south. Such a stop allows a departure from when steadier winds are found west of those
Europe during the autumn and the subsequent pas- islands. Directions concerning the longitudes in
sage to South Africa can be made when the time is which the equator should be crossed are given in
right. For those who are already underway, a stop ATlO. Sou th of the equator similar directions apply
in either the Canaries or the Cape Verdes is not as for route AT11.
always justified, particularly in winter when it is Although the route crosses a potential breed ing
better to cross the equator further west. See also ground for hurricanes to the west of the Cape Verde
routes AN52 and AN53 if planning to stop in either Islands, these storms rarely reach hurricane force
the Cape Verdes or West Africa (pages 74 and 75). while they are still developing, so the passag~can
On leaving the Canaries the direct route runs be made at any time of the year. {
 l
AT10 SOUTHBOUND RO UTES

AT13 North America to South Africa

As in the case of boats leaving from Europe, the crossed on the port tack. The point where the equa-
time of departure from the US east coast is dictat- tor is crossed is governed by the width and posi- I
ed by the best time for rounding the Cape of Good tion of the ITCZ and ATlO describes the optimum
Hope, which is between January and March. If the longitudes in which the narrowest band of dol-
voyage is to terminate in Cape Town, the time of drums can be expected at different times of year.
.·)
arrival is less crucial and the passage can be made On a passage to Cape Town, however, the skipper
at almost any time, although the winter months in may decide to carry his easting across the equator,
the Cape area, from May to September, are best even if a wider doldrum belt has to be crossed and .1
avoided. make use of the engine if necessary. Arriving in the
A good departure time from any port on the US .S outh Atlantic further east will ensure that the SE
east coast is the beginning of November. Such a winds will be taken at a better angle. Otherwise, for
departure should avoid both the first of the win- the recommended time of year, the equator should
ter northers and the risk of a late hurricane. As the be crossed between longitudes 27"W and 29"W.
NE trade wind belt will have to be traversed across The SE trades are crossed at the best angle that
its entire width, it is preferable to make as much the windward performance of the boat will permit.
easting as possible along latitude 35 'N, where NW The southern limit of these trades extends normally
winds prevail in November. After meridian 45 'W to a line joining the Cape of Good Hope to the
has been crossed (WP AT132), the route turns grad- Brazilian island of Trinidade. The route continues
ually SE to pass close to the west of the Cape Verde SE into an area of variables to WP AT134. Roughly
Islands. Some easting should be made south of the the same course should be maintained until lati-
Cape Verdes so that latitude 5 'N is crossed in the tude 35 'Sis reached. The rest of the passage to Cape
vicinity of the 25 "W meridian (WP AT133). The SE
trades will be met at about this latitude and the rec-
ommended easting allows the equator to be
Town should be sailed along this latitude. See also
routes ATll, AS22, and AS23 (pages 165, 189 and
190).
'!,
.

167
TRANSEQUATORIAL RO UTES IN THE ATLANTIC

AT14 Canary Islands to Brazil

The timing of this passage is dictated primarily by The width of the doldrums fluctuates greatly
the preferred time of arrival in Brazil, rather than according to season and longitude, being anything
by sailing conditions expected en route. The from 100 to 400 miles wide. Southbound vessels
majority of those who make this passage attempt normally find the SE trade winds between the
to be in Brazil for Carnival, which means arriving equator (July) and latitude 3'5 (January), although
in Salvador (Bahia) or Rio de Janiero before the winds with a southerly component may be encoun-
beginning of February. tered anywhere south of 10°N.
The passage across the doldrums presents a A popular stop for boats en route to Brazil is
major dilemma, with opinions divided over the Fernando de Noronha, a small island off the coast
best place to cross the equator. The first decision, of Brazil. Those intending to stop there can;,fiake
however, is whether to sail inside or outside the landfall NE of the island at WP AT143, whi~h has
Cape Verde Islands after leaving the Canaries. If a been listed as an intermediate waypoint. Although
stop in either the Cape Verde Islands or in West not an official port of entry, boats are allowed to
Africa is not being considered, it is probably bet- make a short stop there. A convenient port of entry
ter to keep slightly to the west of the Cape Verde into Brazil, just south of the equator; is Fortaleza.
Islands (WP AT142). Depending on the time of year, Other landfalls and possible destinations listed are
the NE trades will be lost somewhere between 10 'N Salvador and Rio de Janeiro. It should be pointed
(September) and 4 °N (December). As the Atlantic out that between October and February NE winds
doldrum belt narrows towards the west, it is more prevail along the Brazilian coast between Cape Sao
logical to try and cross it nearer the Brazilian coast. Roque and Cape Frio, making southbound pas-
Boats crossing the doldrums near the African coast sages easy, also helped by the SW setting current.
normally have to go much farther in search of the Sailors are reminded that most foreign nationals
SE trade winds than those which cross further west. visiting Brazil must arrive with a valid visa.
 AT10 SOUTHBOUND ROUTES

AT15 Cape Verde Islands to Brazil

Suggestions regarding the optimum point for cross- the port of destination. Coming from the north it
ing the equator are given in ATlO. If the destination is advisable to plan to arrive in the more southern
in Brazil is between Cape Sao Roque and Cape Frio, ports between October and February, when the
the equator can be crossed further west than the winds are NE, and sail up the coast during the rest
recommended crossing points for routes which of the year, when the SE trades take over.
continue towards South Africa. However, the equa- The rocks of St Peter and St Paul should be I
tor should not be crossed further west than 30'W, approached with extreme caution as they are often
as this might mean beating against the SE trades difficult to see until very close to them. Depending
south of the equator unless this passage is made at which point the Brazilian coast is approached,
between October and February, when NE winds a popular first stop is Fernando de Noronha, a
prevail between Cape Sao Roque and Cape Frio. small island off Cape Sao Roque. Those planning
During the favourable season, the winds along to stop there should make landfall NE of the island
the Brazilian coast are NE and the current sets SW, at WP AT151. Although not an official port of entry,
making it easy to reach any port along this stretch boats are .allowed to make a short stop there. A con-
of coast. Between March and September the winds venient port of entry, just south of the equator, is
are predominantly SE and the current sets NE. This Fortaleza. Other landfalls and possible destinations
makes it necessary to make southing well off the listed are Recife and Salvador.
coast and attempt to make landfall to windward of i'
~
i'
i'
!
AT16 West Africa to Brazil

169
:::::- . :··· ··.- -

TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE ATLANTIC

West Africa is becoming a more popular destina- be very uncomfortable because of the confused
tion and many boats that cruise there continue their swell generated by the trade wind systems meet-
voyage to Brazil before sailing on to the Caribbean. ing at that point. It is therefore recommended to try
The transequatorial passage requires careful plan- and stay with the NE trades north of the equator
ning as the doldrum belt in the proximity of the and only cross it in longitude 29'W or 30'W. A more
African coast can be 400-500 miles wide. Even if westerly crossing point is not advisable if making
one is prepared to try and motor through it, a for Salvador because of the risk of headwinds south
power assisted passage through the doldrums can of the equator. See also AT10 and AT15.

AT17 Lesser Antilles to Brazil

The strong NW setting Guyana current dissuades winds along the Brazilian coast are NE between
most people from undertaking this direct passage, October and February. The current is also
and those who have attempted it in the past have favourable as it sets SW, making it easy to reach any
preferred to take an offshore route. However, by port along this stretch of the coast. Between March
staying close inshore, it is possible to avoid the and September the winds are predominantly SE
worst of the current. The best place to start this voy- and the current sets NE. For southbound boats dur-
age is in Trinidad from where the coast of South ing this period it thus becomes necessary to sail
America should be followed by staying close to or well off the coast where the chances of finding
even inside the 10 fathom line. Because of the exten- favourable winds are better.
sive continental shelf, shallow waters reach far off- The logical departure point for the southbound
shore allowing one to sail relatively long tacks. passage is Trinidad. Although enjoying NE trade
Occasionally a favourable countercurrent will also winds for most of the year, the more southerly posi-
be found. Naturally, the help of a powerful engine tion of Trinidad and its proximity to the mainland
will come in useful and also the full range of coastal coast does lessen their effect in the summer
charts. As one approaches the mouth of the months from June to November, which is also the
Amazon, it is advisable to move offshore to avoid rainy season. A SE wind sweeps across the plains
the worst of the river currents. bordering the Gulf of Paria, building up a sea every
Past Cape Sao Roque, conditions during the rec- afternoon in the gulf. Sea conditions are general-
ommended season improve dramatically as the ly rough near the island due to the clashing of

1?n
 AT20 NORTHBOUND ROUTES

winds and currents setting strongly out of the Gulf in late October or early November occurs more
j· of Paria and around the north coast of the island . suddenly and without the squalls that characterise
I The current in the Dragon's Mouth can have the other change of season. Near to the coast the
I northerly sets of 5 knots and seldom sets south. winds decrease at night and pick up again in the
I Being sou th of the hurricane area, Trinidad rarely morning, usually the earlier in the day this occurs
suffers any serious storms and this century only the stronger the wind will be that day. Land breezes
I one tropical storm has affected the island. from SW to NW can occur close to the coast, espe-
The three former Guyanas, British (Guyana), cially towards the latter part of the year, but they
I
I
Dutch (Suriname), and French (Cayenne) will be
passed on the way south. This region of the South
do not last long. The only official port of entry into
Guyana is its capital Georgetown (6 '49'N, 58 '11'W).
American continent lies mainly in the belt of the NE For Suriname, the port of entry is the capital

I trades, although the SE trade winds do penetrate

into the area from August to October when the
lTCZ moves north. May to July is the wettest sea-
son, September and October the driest months. The
Paramaribo (5 '50'N, 55'10'W), approximately 13
miles up the Suriname River. Entry formalities in
Cayenne are completed at Degrad des Cannes
(4 '51 'N, 52 '16'W), although southbound boats may
NE trade winds are strongest from January to be able to stop without clearing in at the Iles du

I March with a more northerly component earlier in

the season and more easterly later on. From May
through to July there are more calms and frequent
Salut (5'15'N, 52'35'W), just inside the border
between Suriname and Cayenne as one comes
south. The first official port of entry into Brazil, just
squalls as the winds gradually change through south of the equator, is Sao Luis Maranhao (2 '30'S,
ENE to ESE. When established, the SE trade winds 44'20'W).
are not very strong and the change back to the NE

AT20 NORTHBOUND ROUTES

AT21 Brazil to Lesser Antilles 172
AT22 Brazil to Europe 173
AT23 South Africa to Azores 174
AT24 South Africa to Lesser Antilles 175
AT25 South Africa to North America 176
; AT26 Cape Horn to Europe . 177
>. AT27 Cape Horn to North America 178
The transequatorial strategy for northbound ves- However, for boats bound for the Caribbean,
sels is somewhat less daunting than the one applied Bermuda, or the US east coast, a more westerly
by boats heading south and the point where the crossing of the equator is recommended to take
equator should be crossed is dictated by the loca- advantage of the favourable current.•
tions of the ports of departure and destination. As From recent reports it appears that boats bound
most boats sailing north from Cape Town call at St for the Caribbean from the South Atlantic made
Helena, the best course from there is to sail west of better times by crossing the equator further west,
Ascension Island so as to cross the equator between longitudes 37"W and 39"W. A counter-
between longitudes 25'W and 30'W. In July and current was reported north of the equator in
August, the equator should be crossed further east, approximately 6 'OO'N, 49 '00'W and the favourable
between longitudes 20'W and 25"W, to ensure bet- NW setting current was found around S'OO'N,
ter winds north of the equator. The longitude of 55 'OO'W. The favourable current can be found ear-
crossing depends greatly on the route that will be lier by closing w!th the Brazilian coast, but this
pursued in the North Atlantic, as a more easterly means sailing through shallow waters and calls for
crossing will ensure a better slant in the NE trade very careful navigation. Therefore it may be
winds on the subsequent leg to the Azores. preferable to stay offshore.

171
 TRANS EQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE ATLANTIC

I
I
I·,·Iii

·~I
20"$

I~ 4o•s
oTAISTAN DACUNHA
40' $
eo•w 40"W 20-W O" 20"E
I
AT20 Northbound routes

AT21 Brazil to Lesser Antilles

172
 AT20 NORTHBOUND RO UTES

Northbound passages from ports in Southern tions along the coasts of Guyana and Trinidad are
Brazil are hampered by the strong NE winds and described in route AT17.
SW current, which occur between October and Northbound boats seldom sail nonstop all the
February. Passages during this time from ports way to the Caribbean and there are several inter-
south of.Recife are best avoided. If the passage can- esting places worth visiting en route in one of the
not be undertaken at a better time, the only solu- three former Guyanas, French (Cayenne), Dutch
tion is to stand well offshore until the SE trades are (Suriname), and British (Guyana). Entry formali-
found and then make northing with their help. ties in Cayenne are completed at Degrad des
Boats coming from ports south of Rio de Janeiro Cannes (4 °51 'N, 52 '16'W). Formalities can also be
will find better conditions between March and completed at Kourou. To enter the river on which
September when the prevailing winds are from the Kourou is located, landfall should be made at the
SE. If an inshore passage from southern ports is first leading buoy. Its GPS position has been report-
preferred, care must be taken when passing ed as 5 '12.9'N, 52 '36.4'W. Interesting places to visit
between the Abrolhos Islands and the mainland as nearby are the Iles du Salut and the old French
the charts are inaccurate and the reefs more exten- penal colony. .The recommended anchorage is
sive than charted. If the islands are passed offshore, located at 5 '17'N, 52 '35'W.
caution must also be exercised as the reefs extend The port of entry for Suriname is Paramaribo
about 35 miles offshore. (5'50'N, 55'10'W), approximately 13 miles up the
From ports north of Recife (Pernambuco), the Suriname River, where boats now clear in at the
passage to the West Indies can be made at any time new harbour, Nieu Haffen. The least visited of the
of the year, although arriving there during the hur- three countries is Guyana itself, where the only offi-
ricane season should be avoided. Winds along the cial port of.entry is its capital Georgetown (6 '49'N,
north coast of Brazil are always favourable and the S8 °1l'W). Boats bound for Trinidad will have to
current sets stron9ly to the northwest. The waters negotiate the Serpent's Mouth, the narrows sepa-
along this coast1of Brazil are often very muddy rating the island from the mainland, to reach one
from the Amaz6n, and as depths are shallow a of the ports of entry, of which perhaps the most
good distance offshore must be kept as the colour convenient is Point Fortin (10 '1l'N, 6l 041'W).
of water gives no indication of its depth. The extent Trinidad Coast Guard should be contacted on VHF
of the doldrums varies with the time of year, being channel 16 as soon as territorial waters are
wider during the northern summer. An area of vari- entered. Boats not intending to stop in Trinidad
able winds, calms, and squalls normally extends itself w ill find a more convenient port of entry at
from the equator in longitude 30°W to about lati- Scarborough (11 'll'N, 60 '44'W), the capital of
tude 3"N-5"N in longitude 38W. Weather condi- Tobago.

AT22 Bra zil to Europe

173
TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE ATLANTIC

Northbound passages from Brazilian ports south passed to the west if the vessel is bound for
of Cape Frio should avoid the period October to Northern Europe (route AT22A). Depending on the
February, when NE winds prevail along the coast. winds encountered in the vicinity of the Azores, the
During this time, the normal practice is to take a recommended practice is to stay on the tack which
long tack offshore until well inside the SE trades. gives most northing as westerly winds will be
Thls will then make it possible to weather Cape Sao found in hlgher latitudes and the course can then
Roque, at the eastern extremity of Brazil. After suf- be altered to NE. For the rest of the passage to
ficient easting has been made, the course can be Northern Europe see route AN132 (page 143).
altered to northward so that the equator is crossed For vessels bound for the Mediterranean (route
between longitudes 28 Wand 30"W. AT22B), the route north of the equator should stay
From April to September northbound passages as far east as the E trade winds will allow. If too
are much easier and the equator should be crossed much leeway is made to the west and the Azores
as far east as possible so as to enter the NE trades cannot be avoided, Horta or Ponta Delgada provide
at the most favourable slant. North of the equator convenient stops from where route AN134 gives
the route runs close to the west of the Cape Verdes details for the continuation of the voyage to the
and on to the Azores, which should be always Mediterranean (page 146).

AT23 South Africa to A zores

174
 AT20 NORTHBOUND ROUTES

The great circle route from Cape Town to the winds. This would mean that the NE trades would
Azores runs close to both St Helena (route AS11) be enterec;I at a better angle north of the Cape
and Ascension (route AS12) and few boats pass Verdes. Such an alternative route could also include
those islands without stopping briefly. If no stop a detour to West Africa.
is intended, the great circle route should be{ aken The route inside of the Cape Verdes is not rec-
from Cape Town to one of the longitudes recom- ommended in winter when the islands should be
mended in ATlO where the equator should be passed as closely as possible on their west side. To
crossed. As most of the passage in the South be able to do this, sufficient easting must be made
Atlantic is made in the SE trades, steady winds can while still in the SE trades. Otherwise the easting
be expected almost all the way to the equator. From will have to be made with the help of the engine
Ascension, the route continues in a NW direction before the NE trade winds are met in the vicinity
towards the equator which is crossed further west of S'N. A route which passes close to the Cape
during the northern winter and further east in sum- Verdes, or is even interrupted there, is essential as
mer. The recommended longitudes are between it increases the chances of reaching the Azores on
26 'Wand 28 'Win December to February, 22 "W to one tack. Official ports of entry in the Cape Verdes
25 "W between June and September. The latter peri- are Mindelo (16 '53'N, 25'00'W), Praia (14 '54'N,
od coincides with the SW monsoon, when it may 23 '31 'W), and Sal (16 '45'N, 23 'OO'W). Directions for
be better to cross the equator more to the east and the continuation of the route to the Azores ar.e
take a route between the Cape Verde Islands and given in AN61 (page 81).
the African coast to take advantage of the SW

AT24 South Africa to Lesser Antilles

1·

"

J•

!'
i'I
I:

As an alternative to AT25, this route has the advan- November and the start of the safe cruising season
tage that it can leave South Africa earlier so as to there. As the route passes close to St Helena, most
arrive in the Caribbean after the middle of boats make a brief call there before continuing

175
TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE ATLANTIC

towards the equator. Another favoured stop en For boats arriving from the south, the most con-
route to the Caribbean is the island of Fernando de venient landfaJls in the Caribbean are:
Noronha, off the coast of Brazil. Directions for the
AT244, five miles SE of Scarborough, the capital of
above routes are given in AS11 and AS13 (pages 183 Tobago, where entry formalities into Trinidad and
and 185).
Tobago can be completed.
The direct route from South Africa to the AT245, five miles SW of South Point, the southern
Caribbean crosses the equator in about longitude
extremity of Barbados. Formalities,are completed
32•30• (WJ' AT243), where the d oldrums are very
in the commercial port of Bridgetown, north of
narrow at the recommended time of year
Carlisle Bay, the recommended anchorage.
(December to February). The SE trades are nor-
AT246, four miles east of Cape Marquis, on the NE
mally lost soon after the equator has been crossed
coast of St Lucia. Having sailed along the north
and the NE trades are picked up 100 to 150 miles
coast of St Lucia, the marina in Rodney Bay makes
further on. The route continues parallel to the coast
an excellent landfall where entry formalities can be
of Brazil, where a very strong current setting NW
completed. St Lucia can be also approached f_rom
at rates of 1 1 /2 to 2 knots gives an excellent boost.
the south, in which case the port of entry at Vieux
Route AT21 describes some of the possible stops
Fort (13 °44'N, 60 "57') can be used.
along the northern coast of South America. AT247, three miles SSE of Martinique. The nearest
As the NE trade winds are normally found in
place to complete formalities is Cul. de Sac d.u
about latitude 5 ·N and their initial direction is Marin, a small port on the SE hp of the island. This
sometimes NNE, boats that are bound for the
is more convenient than the capital Fort de
Leeward or Virgin Islands are ad vised not to cross
France, which is another 25 miles up the coast.
the equator too far west so as to have a better slant
AT248, two miles SSE of English Harbour on the SE
through the trades. In such a case, the recom-
coast of Antigua. Formalities can be complefed in
mended longitude for crossing the equator 1s
the nearby historic port of English Harbour.
between 30 "W and 32 ·w.

AT25 South Africa to North America

Similar directions apply as far as the equator as for the small Brazilian island Fernando de Noronha in
route AT23, although a more westerly crossing of which case the equator will be crossed further west
the equator may be preferable for boats bound for than WP AT253. Because the optimum departure
the USA. A convenient stop south of the equator is time from Cape Town (January to March), brings

176
 AT20 NORTHBOUND ROUTES

boats too early into the North Atlantic, few people route AN121 gives directions for the continuation
sail the entire route nonstop and usually make a of the voyage to the USA (page 135). If a nonstop
detour to the Caribbean. This is easily accomplished passage is planned from Cape Town, an arrival in
as the route runs quite close to the Lesser Antilles. Bermuda is not recommended before the middle of
Route AN77 describes the subsequent leg from the April. In t~is cil'se, a departure from Cape Town at
islands to the USA (page 92). the end of'February or beginning of March is not
Having crossed the equator, the direct route runs too late as favourable sailing conditions still pre-
NW through the NE trades to Bermuda from where vail in the South Atlantic.

AT26 Cape Horn to Europe

I
ii
",j
JI
I:
This busy route in the heyday of the clipper ships against the tide. Alternatively, the route through Le
is used nowadays mainly by participants in round Maire Strait can be taken, especially if the intention 1:
the world races and only a few cruising boats, is to pass to the west of the Falkland Islands. In this I:
which choose this tough way of reaching Europe case a course should be set for WP AT262 at the
from the antipodes. After rounding Cape Horn, entrance into the Strait. Going north through Le
from WP AT260, five miles south of Cape Horn, the . Maire Strait it is essential to wait for a fair tide and,
course is altered for WP AT261. From here, the if at all possible, a fair wind as well. The choice
route can pass either east or west of Staten Island. must be made whether to lay a course which will
If this island is passed to seaward, a wide berth pass between the mainland and the Falklands or
should be given to Cape St John, as a dangerous choose an offshore course. In the latter case a stop
tide rip extends offshore for about six miles mak- in the Falklands should be considered. WP AT263
ing conditions hazardous when the wind blows keeps well clear of Beauchene Island and Mintay

177
 r

I TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE ATLANTIC

Rock, south of the Falklands, from where the course to make some easting in these latitudes before
is altered for WP AT264, off Cape Pembroke in the reaching the SE trades so that the subsequent route
approaches to Stanley Harbour. to the equator will intersect them at a better angle.
Regardless of whether one stops in the Falklands From the Falkland Islands the route passes
or not, there is a choice of either an inshore or off- through waypoints AT265, AT266, and AT267, so
shore route to the equator. The inshore route along that the SE trades will be found somewhere along
the coast of Argentina is the more cautious one as meridian 30VV. The SE trades normally extend to
it benefits from the favourable current, the seas are latitude 25 ·s and near their southern limit their
not as rough as offshore, and the danger of encoun- direction becomes more easterly. Once in the trades,
tering icebergs is also greatly reduced. The latter the course becomes northerly so that the equator
are usually seen well offshore and occasionally can is crossed between longitudes 26 ·w and 30 °W,
reach as far north as the latitude of the River Plate. depending on the time of year (see AT20). During
Winds from the southerly quarter are most likely the southern summer, from May to September, it is
on this stretch during summer months. As the effect usually possible to stay closer to the Brazilian coast
of the Falklands Current peters out, the route and sail between Cape Frio and the offlying islands.
should move offshore so as not to get caught by the After the equator is crossed, the NE trade winds
contrary Brazil Current. will be found between latitudes 3 °N and 5 °N. For
If the offshore route is taken from the Falklands, the continuation of the passage to Europe see
I routes AT22 and AT23.
I the route runs in a general NE direction through an
area of prevailing westerly winds. It is advisable
1/

11
:1 AT27 Cape Horn to North America
if
I·

,,
·I'
!1 178
 AT20 NORTHBOUND ROUTES

This route follows the same track as route AT26 this passage will reach the North Atlantic at the end
until the SE trade winds are found, from where a of winter. As the optimum time for rounding Cape
more westerly route can be taken to the equator Horn does not fit in with the best arrival time in
passing close to Fernando de Noronha island . As North America, some aUernatives may have to be
far as the equator, the same waypoints can be used considered to avoid a '{..,int~'r arrival in the USA.
as in AT26. The equator is crossed in about longi- This can be accomplished by spending some time
tude 30'W (WP AT278) and the great circle route is en route in Brazil, Lesser Antilles, or Bermuda. See
taken from there either to Bermuda or direct to the also routes AT21, AN77, and AN78 (pages 172, 92
port of destination. This route is not recommend- and 94). The direct route north of the equator pass-
ed during the North Atlantic hurricane season, but es through the NE trades which normally last as far
as Cape Horn will have been doubled probably as latitude 25'N from where the Horse Latitudes
during the most favourable months, which are the will have to be crossed.
southern summer months of December to February,

179
 .. ··:- .· -

7
WINDS AND
CURRENTS OF THE
SOUTH ATLANTIC
The Southeast trade winds northern limit in July. To the east of the 0 • merid-
ian the winds tend to be mostly southerly and can
Because the lntertropical Convergence Zone is sit- be regarded as an extension of the trades. The sum-
uated north of the equator throughout the year, it mer winds in the western half of this region are
may be said that the South Atlantic Ocean does not mostly NE.
have a doldrums zone. The SE trade winds are
more constant than their North Atlantic counter-
part, the NE trades. They form the equatorial side
Westerlies
of the air circulation around the oceanic anti- The winds in the higher latitudes of the South
cyclone, which is situated between latitudes 22'5 Atlantic are predominantly westerly. This is the
and 30'5 and has a direct bearing on the winds and region of the Roaring Forties where the continuous
weather of the entire tropical South Atlantic. passage of depressions from west to east generate
The SE trade winds extend as far as the equator winds which often blow with gale force. The strong
during the southern winter and their northern limit westerlies are a normal fe;iture of southern waters
" retreats by a few degrees to the south in the sum-
mer after December. Their southern limit extends
where they blow unhindered south of the three
great capes.
normally to a line joining the Cape of Good Hope
to the Brazilian island of Trinidade. Their direction Tropical Storms
varies from being SE or SSE on the eastern side of
the ocean to become almost easterly in the western Tropical revolving storms do not occur in the South
part. The average strength of the SE trades is 15 Atlantic Ocean.
knots, but they diminish in strength towards the
equator. Currents
The currents of the South Atlantic Ocean are part
Variables of a well defined anti-clockwise circulation. The
A zone of light variable winds extends to the south South Equatorial Current flows in a broad belt from
of the SE trade wind belt and is similar to the Horse east to west with its axis roughly along latitude 6 'S.
Latitudes of the North Atlantic. This region of vari- The part of this current which is between the equa-
able winds coincides with the areas of oceanic high tor and latitude 6 'Sis reputed to be one of the most
pressure which are located between latitudes 25 'S constant currents in the world . The set is always in
and 32'5 approximately. Their position is influ- a westerly direction, usually between WNW and
enced by the seasonal movement of the sun, reach- WSW, the average rate being about 1 knot. Further
ing their southern limit in January and their south, to about latitude 20'5, there is the weaker

180
 WINDS AND C URRENTS OF THE S OUTH A TLANTIC

South Subtropical Current also setting to the west. Cape Horn, a branch of this current turns to the
The South Equatorial Current extends across the northeast into the South Atlantic and forms the
equator to about latitude 4 'N and one branch of it Falklands Current.
combines with the North Equatorial Current to On the African side the main ocean circulation
form a strong current setting towards the West of the South Atlantic is completed by the Benguela
Indies. The other branch is deflected to the south Current. This current sets north along the coast of
by the South American continent and combines Africa and is a continuation of the Agulhas
with the South Subtropical Current to form the Current after the latter has passed the Cape of Good
Brazil Current. This current sets strongly parallel Hope. The Benguela Current is reinforced by some
to the coast until it reaches latitude 25 'S, where part of the Southern Ocean Current. North of latitude
of it turns east. The remainder carries on as far as 20'5 the Benguela Current sets away from the
latitude35'S, where it also turns east to join the vast African coast fanning out into the Subtropical and
body of water which sets eastward and is generated South Equatorial Currents. Near the African coast,
by the Southern Ocean Current. This broad belt of the set of the current is always northerly and from
cold water sets eastward in the southern hemi- February to April it reaches as far as the equator.
sphere to the south of all continents. After passing

·1.· ·

.....___ South Equatorial Current

~-~
~outh
Subtropical Current' '\ \

/ \\\\
~ ~'
~ c..
Southern Ocean Current
~

South Atlantic wrrents

181
 Ii

8
ROUTES IN THE /

I SOUTH ATLANTIC
I C ompared to the North Atlantic, the South
Atlantic is intersected by only a handful of
the South Pacific to Chile eastabout through the
Magellan Strait. The traditional circumnavigating
routes and the number of cruising boats sailing route around the Cape of Good Hope is used main-
I them is relatively small. The classic route from the
Cape of Good Hope to St Helena is used nowadays
ly by racing boats taking part in such races as the
Whitbread, BOC, Globe Challenge, or Jules Vernes
by a smaller number of boats than in the past as Trophy. On their return voyage, these boats pass
I more yachts sail to Europe via the Red Sea and Suez
Canal. One area, however, which has seen an
again through the South Atlantic after having
weathered Cape Horn, a challenge which in
1 I increase in recent years is Brazil, particularly the
northeastern coast, which is visited by boats mak-
recent years has been confronted by only a hand-
ful of cruising sailors. '
ing a detour on their way from Europe to the The weather in the South Atlantic is dictated by
Caribbean. Otherwise, South America is still the powerful South Atlantic high and as its posi-
largely undiscovered by cruising boats , although tion has a direct bearing on the winds encountered
every year an increasing number of yachts brave the on most of these routes, an attempt should be made
elements and sail down to the Strait of Magellan. to obtain its approximate coordinates before leav-
A few yachts reach the Atlantic by sailing from ing on an offshore passage.

AS10 ROUTES FROM SOUTH AFRICA

I ASll Cape Town to St Helena 183
184
AS12 St Helena to Ascension
AS13 St Helena to Brazil 185
I AS14 Cape Town to Brazil 186
The routes leading into the South Atlantic from With the hot mass of Africa to the north and the
South Africa are used mainly by circumnavigating cold Antarctic ice to the south, the high coastline
boats on their way to Europe or North America. presents an obstacle to opposing air currents from
South African yachts, themselves leaving on a those regions. The main feature of weather condi-
longer cruise, also join these routes. The Cape to tions in this area is the high proportion of gale force
Rio Race, which has been reinstated after an inter- winds, which come from almost any direction and
ruption of several years, is used by many South with little warning, quickly raising high and dan-
Africans as a convenient start to their own voyage. gerous seas. The weather forecasts here rare!y give
With the decrease in the number of boats that sail a prognosis for longer than 12 hours. Often winds
around the world by way of the Cape of Good build up to gale force in the day and fall at night,
Hope, there are now fewer boats that reach the but this is not a rule, nor can it be relied on.
Atlantic by this route. Another local phenomenon is to have gales from

182
 AS10 ROUTES FROM SOUTH AFRICA

different directions, NE followed by SW on suc- NE gale to blow hard, followed by a lull, and then
ceeding days. The strong currents in this area are SW winds setting in with gale force. In summer
part of the reason why seas build up so high and depressions come up from the south giving a cold
so rapidly, especially when the gales are opposing change similar to the southerly busters experienced
the current. A typical sequence of weather is for a in SE Australia.

40' W 20'W

0'
. st Paul
Rocks

20°S

TRISTAN
40°S DACUNHA 40'S

80'W 20'W o• 20'E

A510 and AS20 Routes in the South Atlantic

,,,'·
AS11 Cape Town to St Helena "
Ii
I

:i
ij

::
j·
!

183
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC

Because of the consistency of the SE trade winds During summer, the southern limit of the SE
and the absence of tropical storms in the South trades reaches as far as Cape Town, but because of
Atlantic, this passage can be made throughout the the peculiar nature of the weather in this area, true
year. However, most sailors plan on leaving the trade wind conditions are usually met only north
Cape area before the onset of the winter gales and of latitude 25 'S. Violent gales of short duration are
therefore the best time for this passage are the sum- not uncommon even during January and February,
mer months, from November to April. Such timing which are the best months for this passage,
fits most forward plans, whether it is to arrive in although the gales occur mainly south of 30"S. As
Brazil for Carnival, the Caribbean for the winter the position of the South Atlanflc high has such a
cruising season, or the USA and Europe in late major bearing on the winds to be experienced on
spring or early summer. this route, its location should be obtained before
It is generally advisable to wait in Cape Town for leaving Cape Town. One tactic used by past par-
a favourable forecast, or at least until any existing ticipants in the Cape to Rio Race is to stay well to
lows have passed over. Strong SW winds some- the east of the high. This may mean staying east of
times give a welcome boost at the start of this pas- the rhumb line, but the course can be altered for St
sage, although they occasionally reach gale force. Helena once steady winds have been found.
If the African coast is followed northward, the Boats sailing north along the coast of SW Africa will
strong Benguela current will be in one's favour, find some facilities in the two Namibian ports,
although fog is often associated with this area and Luderitz (26"38'S, 15"09'E ) and Walvis Bay
is caused by the warm wind blowing over the cold (22 "57'S, 14 °30'E ), both used extensively by fish-
waters of the current. The suggestion to follow the ing boats.
African coast, in order to take advantage of the Having left Table Bay, from WP AS111, thegreat
favourable current and possible land breezes, runs circle route leads to WP AS112, east of St Helena.
contrary to the recommendation made in the past This rather forbidding island, place of eicile for
when the masters of sailing ships leaving Cape Napoleon, often stands out like a fortress, visible
Town were urged to make a good offing to the NW from 60 miles away, due to the excellent clear vis-
to avoid being caught on a lee shore by W or f\TW ibility that prevails in this region. The island' s only
squalls. This advice is still va.Jid and during unset- harbour is called the Anchorage, which gives rea-
tled weather it is indeed better to keep a safe dis- sonable shelter from the prevailing SE winds. The
tance off the coast. Violent onshore squalls have main settlement is Jamestown, where formalities
been·recorded in both seasons, so a prudent dis- are completed. Port Control should be contacted on
tance should be kept off the coast to be able to take VHF channel 16 for mooring instructions.
an offshore tack should a squall strike unexpectedly.

AS12 St Helena to Ascension

As a continuation of a northbound passage from out the year. The direction of the wind is predom-
South Africa, the subsequent leg from St Helena to inantly SE, although its strength varies and some-
Ascension benefits from favourable winds through- times can be light, especially in the summer months

184
 ASlO ROUTES FROM SOUTH AFRICA .-!

January to March. From WP AS121, NW of St Atlantic, which can make landing difficult.
Helena, a course should be set for WP AS122, SE Ascension Island is a British military base and
of Ascension. yachts are discouraged from calling there unless
A bustling military base, this outpost in they have an emergency. Because of its military
mid-Atlantic is another welcome stop for those on nature, yachts may only stop in Ascension for 48
long Atlantic voyages. The SE trades have often hours. Formalities are completed in Georgetown
spent some of their force by the time they reach and the anchorage is at Clarence Bay. Yachts are
Ascension and can be as light as 5 knots. Heavy supposed to anchor in the area north of Pierhead,
rollers and swell from the NW can be experienced in Clarence Bay.
when the NE trade_is at its height in the North

AS13 St Helena to Brazil

Rather than take the direct route from St Helena to of entry, boats are allowed to make a short stop
the Eastern Caribbean, many boats make a detour there. A convenient port of entry into Brazil, just
to Brazil before rejoining their NW route. One of south of the equator, is Fortaleza. Those intending
the main attractions on Brazil's NE coast is to stop in mainland Brazil must arrive with a valid
Salvador, commonly referred to as Bahia, whose visa which is required of most nationalities. Route
annual Carnival is a keen rival of the more AT21 gives details of the rest of the route to the
famous Carnival of Rio. Landfall is made at WP Eastern Caribbean (page 172).
ASl32 off Cape Santo Antonio in the approaches The weather on this route is mostly pleasant,
to the perfectly sheltered natural harbour. Further with consistent E and SE winds that very rarely
up the Brazilian coast, another convenient port of reach gale force. Between March and September the
entry is Recife. Landfall can be made at WP AS133, winds along the Brazilian coast are predominant-
3 miles outside the harbour. ly SE and the current sets NE. Between October and
Boats not intending to stop in mainland Brazil February the prevailing winds are NE and the cur-
often use the island of Fernando de Noronha, off rent sets to SW, a combination making northbound
Cape Sao Roque, as a convenient stop on the way passages very difficult. During this period it.is rec-
to the Caribbean. Landfall can be made SE of the ommended to either keep well offshore or plan
island at WP AS134. Although not an official port one's arrival for the favourable season.

185
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC

AS14 Cape Town to Brazil

The great circle route to Rio de Janeiro and ports and the current along the coast also sets SW, a sub-
south of Cape Frio is well outside the southern limit sequent passage from Rio de Janeiro n orthward
of the SE trade winds, so it is advisable to make this should be planned for the SE season, from March
passage between latitudes 20°S and 23 °S where the to September.
chances of having favourable winds is much Although intermediate waypoints cannot be
greater. The SE trade winds. have their southern given as the rou te across will depend entirely on
limit along a diagonal line that runs from Trinidade weather conditions at the time the passage is made,
Island to the Cape of Good Hope. The initial route landfall waypoints only are listed to ease planning:
from Cape Town runs NW for about 1200 miles WP AS141 in the approaches to Rio de Janeiro, WP
until steady SE trades are found. It then goes west AS142 off Cape Santo Antonio in the approaches
as far as longitude 30 °W, from where a course is to Salvador (Bahia), WP AS143, three miles outside
shaped for the coast. A similar tactic, taking full Recife. As explained in AS13, some boats use the
advantage of the SE trade winds, should also be island of Fernando d e Noronha, off Cape Sao
used if sailing to ports lying further south along the Roque, as a convenient stop on ·the way to the
coast of South America. Caribbean. Landfall is made SE of the island at WP
A more direct route from Cape Town can be AS144. Although not an official port of entry, boats
steered to ports lying north of Cape Frio. As the are allowed to make a short stop there. A conve-
ports on the Brazilian coast between Cape Silo nient port of entry into Brazil, just south of the
Roque and Cape Frio are under the influence of equator, is Fortaleza.
steady NE winds between October and February

186
 AS20 ROUTES FROM SOUTH AMERICA

AS20 ROUTES FROM SOUTH AMERICA

AS21 South America to South Africa 188
AS22 Brazil to Tristan da Cunha 190
AS23 Tristan da Cunha to Cape Town 190
AS24 South America to Falkland Islands 191
AS25 South America to Magellan Strait 192
AS26 Magellan Strait to Falkland Islands 193
AS27 Falkland Islands to South America 193
The small number of routes in the South Atlantic prefer the Red Sea route and so the boats that reach
is not due to a paucity of destinations as there are South America, and pa,r,~cularly Brazil, arrive from
many interesting places to visit in South America. the North Atlantic, either from the Canaries
Nor is the weather itself an impediment as, par- direct or by way of a detour to West Africa. Not
ticularly in the tropics, weather conditions can be many boats sail further south than Rio de Janeiro
very pleasant throughout the year with the added before turning around and heading for the
advantage that the area is not affected by tropical Caribbean. The southern half of South America is
storms. In the past, most cruising boats reached still to be discovered by cruising boats in any num-
South America as part of a longer voyage that, in bers and, although every year more boats venture
most cases, had taken them through the Indian to the Straits of Magellan, Falklands, Cape Horn,
Ocean and South Africa or, less commonly, around and even Antarctica, they are still the exception.
Cape Horn. Nowadays, many circumnavigators Whereas passages in the northern half of the South

o•

TRISTAN
DACUNHA 40' S

20'W o• 20'E

ASIO and AS20 Routes in the South Atlantic

187
 ROUTES IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC

Atlantic can be undertaken at any time of the year, Above Rio de Janeiro the lower east coast of
the weather in the southern part is not conducive Brazil enjoys NE winds, fine weather, and a clear
to cruising during the months December to March. sky for most of the year, the winds being strongest
In the River Plate estuary in the summer months close to the coast from December to February. Off
from September through to March, the prevailing the capes of Frio and Sao Tom~ the combination of
wind is from an easterly direction. The rest of the fresh NE winds and strong currents can create
year a W to SW wind prevails in the entrance reach- rough seas. The NE winds are not felt so strongly
es, becoming more northerly in the river. The west of Cape Frio as the mountai.ns check their
weather is usually fine when the wind is settled in force. Higher_,up the coast the SE trade wind is felt
the north. During June to October, strong SW from March to August as far south as Salvador
squalls called pamperos can occur with little warn- (Bahia), although the rest of the year it reaches only
ing. Named because they blow across the pampas, as far as Recife (Pernambuco). Both the SE and NE
these squalls bring rain and cold temperatures that winds sometimes give way to squally SW weath-
can even change the rain to hail. Most frequent in er lasting a few days and bringing clouds and rain.
the winter months, the pamperos can last two or This SW weather occurs particularly from April to
three days, occasionally longer. In other months August when the winds are usually lighter and
they are Jess frequent and do not last so long, but more variable. The barometer usually falls 24 hours
I may pack a more violent wind. Although centred before the onset of SW winds. Although there are
on the Rio de la Plata, the pamperos affect the sur- land and sea breezes all along the coast, the land
I: rounding coastal area between latitudes 31 • and
40 "S and as far out to sea as 48 "W.
breeze is normally short-lived and weak unless the
sea breeze is strong.
I The southern coast of Brazil from Rio de Janeiro
to Rio de la Plata has very variable winds with sea-
On the north coast of Brazil towar ds the
Amazon, the movement .of the Intertropical
sonal variations. From October through to April, Convergence Zone influences the weather bring-
I
I winds from a NE d irection predominate, which ing the SE trade wind, accompanied by fine weath-
when strong are usually followed by calms and a er, from August to October and the NE trade wind
SW wind. In April NW and SW winds blow in from November to March. This latter period is the
equal proportion to the NE winds, which after a wet season along this coast. Both of these winds
few SE to SW gales give way to SW winds in May. have a more easterly component tending to be ESE
These SW winds prevail until October. From July and ENE. Between April and the onset of the SE
to September, westerly winds bring bad weather trades in August, the wind first moves into the ESE
on rare occasions. NW squalls lasting several and then gives way to a couple of months of dol-
hours occur at this time near Rio de Janeiro. drum weather with calms, squalls, and variables.

AS21 South America to South Africa

188
 AS20 ROUTES FROM SOUTH AMERICA

A direct route to the Cape of Good Hope cannot be winds as soon as possible. Having reached WP
sailed from any of the northern ports in South AS211 the recommended route continues to WP
America on account of the SE trade winds which AS212. To increase the chances of finding good
blow consistently in the tropical South Atlantic vir- winds it may be necessary to dip even further south
tually throughout the year. The one exception is the of the great circle route to WP AS213, 60 miles north
area south of Cape Sao Roque, below the bulge of of Tristan da Cunha. It is at this point that one may
South America, where NE winds prevail between decide to stop at that island (see also route AS22).
October and February. During the same period, a Having reached this point, the temptation should
favourable SW current also sets parallel to the be resisted to join the shortest route for the rest of
coast. Boats leaving from one of the ports in the voyage to Cape Town as staying on a higher lat-
Northern Brazil should take advantage of winds itude increases the chances of having better winds
and current to make the necessary southing as one approaches the tip of Africa, especially if met
before heading offshore. by strong southerly winds. Therefore the great cir-
If leaving from one of the ports in Southern cle route for Cape Town should not be joined before
Brazil, the most favourable tack .should be sailed WP AS214 is passed.
to reach the area of westerly winds, the northern Boats leaving from ports in Uruguay or
limit of which depends on the time of year. An area Argentina benefit. from better winds and can sail
of variable winds will have to be crossed between the great circle route to South Africa. Leaving from
latitudes 25 'Sand 33 'S, its width being dependent WP AS215, at the mouth of Rio de la Plata, a rhumb
on the time of year. At the beginning of summer, line to WP AN213 has better chances of favourable
W or N winds will be found around latitude 33 'S, winds than a great circle route. As described above,
but as the summer progresses the northern limit of a stop in Tristan da Cunha may be considered as the
the westerlies retracts, and it may be necessary to island lies very close to the recommended route to
sail to 37"S and even 38 ·s to find steady westerly Cape Town. Directions for the rest of the passage
winds. are the same as those described above. Landfall will
Taking WP AS210 as a departure point from Rio. be made at WP AS216, in the approaches to Cape
de Janeiro, a course should be set slightly south of Town. Cape Town is South Africa's premier yacht-
the great circle route to reach the area of favourable ing centre with excellent repair facilities.
J.
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC l
i
i
AS22 Brazil to Tristan da Cunha I
I

I
I

I
I
I
Departure

As the great circle route from Rio de Janeiro to Cape ally found in latitude 33 'Sor 34 ·sand it may not
Town passes through an area of variable winds, be necessary to go south in search of steady winds.
navigators are advised to set a more SW course on As the summer progresses, the belt of variables
leaving Rio de Janeiro so as to reach the area of pre- moves south and in February or March it may be
vailing NW and W winds sooner. Such a route pass- necessary to go as far as 37'S to find steady west-
es close to Tristan da Cunha. From WP A5220, SE erlies. The winds in these latitudes are usually 20
of Rio de Janeiro, a course should be set for WP to 25 knots, occasionally reaching 40 knots.
AS221. From there the course can be altered for WP The island's port of entry is Edinburgh. The small
AS222, some eight miles NW of Tristan da Cunha. harbour is only suitable for the small local boats,
If this passage is made at the beginning of summer, but an anchorage can usually be found in the lee
in October or November, westerly winds are usu- of the island.

AS23 Tristan da Cunha to Cape Town

The winds below latitude 35'S are much more AS232 in the approaches to Cape Town. As the pre-
favourable for the passage to Cape Town than those vailing summer winds in the Cape Town area are
blowing further north and so a more southerly SE and gales from that direction are frequent, the
route is recommend ed. Near Tristan da Cunha coast should be approached from the SW to avoid
the winds are mostly from between N and W in being set to leeward by the wind and current set-
summer becoming more westerly as one moves ting strongly northward . Cape Town is South
east. From WP AS230 the recommended route runs Africa's premier yachting centre with excellent
due east along the latitude of Trist~n da Cunha. repair facilities.
From WP AS231 a direct course can be set for WP
 A520 RO UTES FROM SOUTH AMERICA

AS24 South America to Falkland Islands

The route from Rio de Janeiro southward runs close WP AS245, off Cape Pembroke in the approaches
to the coast, and if not calling at ports in the Rio de to Port Stanley.
la Plata estuary, the direct offshore route is to be The prevailing wind direction in the Falklands
preferred, certainly as far south as latitude 35 'S. is westerly and these truly windy islands have an
The winds between Rio de Janeiro and this latitude average yearly wind speed of 17 knots with a slight
are mostly NE in summer. South of latitude 35'5, rise in the summer months of December to March.
winds become increasingly westerly and it is advis- The winds can drop to calm at sunset with a ten-
able to stay well to the west of the direct route to dency to increase to 10- 15 knots during the night,
the Falklands to avoid being blown off course by calming again at dawn. The winds tend to increase
a westerly gale. The weather is generally better during the day and can reach gale force by the
inshore than further offshore. Another reason why afternoon.
an inshore route is preferable is to avoid the strong Gales usually begin in the l\TW and quickly draw
north setting Falklands Current which can reach as around to the SW. The worst gales tend to be those
much as 2 knots offshore. For these reasons, south from the N and NE, which are not easily predict-
of the River Plate estuary the route should run par- . ed and often occur without warning. They are
allel and very close to the Argentinian coast. caused by depressions moving north between the
From Rio de Janeiro and WP AS240, the course islands and the Patagonian coast. Northerly
follows the coast closely to take advantage of the winds, which are common in the summer months
favourable wind and current. The course is altered from December to April, often produce fog along
at WP AS241, in the Rio de la Plata estuary, for WP the north coast. When strong westerlies are blow-
AS242. The recommended route runs parallel to the ing, the islands are prone to willywaws, which can
Argentinian coast, at 60 to 100 miles offshore. There be extremely dangerous to small craft. These occur
are several ports in Argentina where it is possible mostly in the lee of the islands and in some·of the
to stop in an emergency, such as Mar del Plata, narrow passages between islands in the west.
Puerto Madryn, or Puerto Deseado. Having run Those who plan to cruise among \he islands
closely to the Argentinian shore, at WP AS243 the should obtain the 'mine maps' which are given free
route swings offshore and a course can be set for of charge at the Secretariat Building in Port
WP AS244, seven miles NE of Volunteer Point on Stanley and contain details of the areas which were
East Falkland. The course can then be altered for mined during the 1982 war.

191
ROUTES JN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC

AS25 South America to Magellan Strait

The southbound route from Rio de Janeiro runs force. On the other hand southerly winds increase
parallel to the coast and, as far as the latitude of the to gale force much more suddenly and are more
Falkland Islands, directions are similar to those violent. A sign of impending bad weather from the
described for route AS24. A place with good facil- south is large masses of heavy cloud on the south-
ities at which to prepare for the southbound pas- ern horizon. If a very low barometer starts rising,
sage is.Mar d el Plata, which is also the base of the this may also be a sign of a wind shift to the south.
whale watching boats going to the Valdez From WP AS253, off Puerto Deseado, the course
Peninsula. can be altered for WP AS254, NE of Cape Virgins,
Caution must be exercised when sailing close to at the entrance into the Strait of Magellan. The strait
the land because of the danger of onshore currents. must be approached with extreme caution as the
From Rio de Ia Plata southward, the route runs very tidal range is great and the tidal streams set strong-
close to the coast to stay in sheltered waters and ly towards Sarmiento Bank and the dangers
also to avoid· the strong north setting Falklands extending from Cape Virgins.
Current. The winds in this region are predomi- The time of arrival at the strait should coincide
nantly westerly so that the risk of being caught on with the start of the favourable tide and it must be
a lee shore is remote. Gales from the east are remembered that the times of high and low water
extremely rare and when they occur, there is always get later as one proceeds westward, until Royal
sufficient warning. Road is passed. This fact greatly assists passages
From September Uuough to June one can get SE from east to west and a vessel that catches the
gales accompanied by rain and heavy seas. These beginning of the west setting stream in the First
winds can also bring fog. A very dense fog can also Narrows has a good chance to ride the favourable
occur with NW winds along the southerly portions tide for 9 hours, possibly as far as Punta Arenas.
of this coast in the months from February to Octo- The tidal stream runs through the First Narrows
ber. When the wind shifts more to the south of west from 5 to 7 knots and through the Second Narrows
the fog usually clears. In warmer weather thunder from 3 to 6 knots. The tidal range itself varies from
and lightning can occur with N and W winds. about 40 feet at the east end of the strait to only 5
Northerly gales are preceded by overcast skies, feet at its western end.
haze, lots of small cloud very high up, and some The usual route from the Atlantic runs through
lightning. The wind increases gradually to gale the following channels: Smyth, Sarmiento,

1 Q?
 AS20 RO UTES FROM SOUTH AMERICA

Inocentes, Concepcion, Largo, Messier and out south from WP AS253 to WP AS255, north of Cape
through the Gulf of Penas into the Pacific Ocean. San Diego, at the entrance into Le Maire Strait.
A shorter route reaches the Pacific through Having weathered the famous Cape Horn, the rest
Cockburn Channel. of Patagonia can be explored by going through the
Yachts bound for Cape Horn should sail due Beagle Channel to reach more sheltered waters.

AS26 Magellan Strait to Falkland Islands '.''

The Falkland Islands are best visited after sailing the entrance into the Strait of Magellan, a course
eastwards through the Strait of Magellan as the pre- can be set almost due east to WP AS261, SW of East
vailing westerly winds make this a relatively easy Falkland. The route follows the south and east
passage. Caution must be exercised when leaving coasts of that island passing between it and Sea
the strait as the strong tidal stream often sets Lion Island and avoiding several dangers, such as
towards the rocks extending offshore from Cape Shag Rock. Having rounded Cape Pembroke at WP
Virgins. From Dungeness Point and WP AS260 at AS262, the course can be altered for Port Stanley.
AS27 Falkland Islands to South America

The northbound passage as far as Rio d e la Plata winds in summer (October to March) are NE and
can be done throughout the summer months and therefore this passage should not be attempted
the direct route benefits both from the strong north before April. Ideally the passage from the Falklands
setting Falklands Current and the prevailing W to Rio de la Plata should be done between
winds. North of Rio de la Plata, the prevailing December and February, with the subsequent leg

193
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC

to Rio de Janeiro and beyond only being under- circle route which passes through WP AS273 and
taken later, between May and September, when thence to WP AS274 in the approaches to Rio de
favourable winds prevail along the entire Brazilian Janeiro.
coast. A passage from the Falklands to Europe or the
From WP AS271 off Volunteer Point on East US east coast can either incorporate the above alter-
Falkland, the course for the River Plate estuary runs native or it can join the direct routes from Cape
almost due north, on a rhumb line, to WP AS272. Horn to those destinations as described in routes
Boats bound for Rio de Janeiro should join the great AT26 and AT27(pages 177 and 178j.

194
 9
WINDS AND
CURRENTS OF THE
NORTH PACIFIC
The Northeast trade winds Intertropical Convergence Zone
These winds blow on the southern side of the area The NE trade winds are bound to the south by the
of high pressure, which is normally located ITCZ, which remains north of the equator through-
around latitude30"N. During the summer months out the year east of meridian 160'W. To the west of
this high is usually situated farther north than in that longitude it moves south of the equator dur-
winter and the NE trades can be found as far north ing the northern winter, from about December to
as latitude 32 '. During the summer the trade winds April or early May. During the summer of the
are predominant to the east of the 150"E meridian, northern hemisphere, when the SE trade winds are
being replaced to the west of this meridian by the at their strongest in the South Pacific, the ITCZ dis-
SW monsoon of the Western Pacific Ocean. appears altogether west of about 150'W, where the
The NE trade winds of the North Pacific Ocean two trade wind systems almost run into each other
are particularly consistent in both direction and and the belt of doldrums is virtually nonexistent.
strength over large areas. Their direction is more In the western part of the North Pacific, the ITCZ
N and even NW near the American coast, becom- is only present during the changeover periods of
ing increasingly E towards the west. Their strength the monsoons, either from mid-April to mid-May
is about 10-15 knots, although they can become or from mid-September to mid-November.
fresher at times and at the height of the trade wind The weather inside the zone is typical doldrums
season stronger winds of 30 knots are not uncom- weather, with calms or very light winds alternat-
mon. The strongest winds are likely to be encoun- ing with squalls, heavy rain, and thunderstorms.
tered in winter, between November and March, but However, as one moves west, the frequency of
they diminish in strength as one moves south calms and light variable winds become6 less and
towards the equator. the prevailing winds, even inside the doldrums, are
The entire trade wind belt moves north and easterlies. This is a fact worth bearing in mind if
south throughout the year in accordance with the planning transequatorial passages especially west
declination of the sun. However, their northern and of the meridian of the Marquesas.
southern limits do not run in a straight line from
east to west, but in a curve which reaches its high-
est point in summer in about latitude 35"N about
The Northeast monsoon
200 miles from the American coast, the corre- The intense cold of the winter months over the land
sponding southern limit being in latitude 8 "N. The mass of Asia creates an area of high pressure over
northern limit of the trade winds in winter is 29"N, parts of the Far East. The resulting wind circulation
in about longitude 150 'W, with the southern limit around this winter high p roduces a flow of NE
for the same period being the equator. winds which prevail during the winter months in

195
:.

WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC

North Equatorial Current

~:

,._ ,
South Equatorial Current

North Pacific Currents

the China Sea and adjacent waters. The NE mon- December and January particularly, there is a belt
soon of the Western North Pacific is particularly of strong NE winds right across the ocean from
noticeable between latitudes 5 "N and 30"N. Its east- California to China.
ern limits are more difficult to define as it merges The arrival of the monsoon depends on latitude
with the NE trade winds of the North Pacific. and it starts earlier in the north and later further
Although the monsoons of the China Sea can be south. Although it commences around September
regarded as an extension of the monsoon system of at its northern limit, the NE monsoon is only fully
the Indian Ocean, there is a certain difference established in the area by late November and lasts
between them. In the China Sea, it is the NE mon- until March. During the changeover periods with the
soon of the winter months which is the stronger SW monsoon, in April-May and August- September,
and more consistent wind, whereas in the Indian there are calms and variable winds.
Ocean, the SW monsoon of summer is the stronger The strength of the wind is also influenced by lat-
constant wind. At its height, the NE monsoon of the itude, the monsoon being strongest in the north,
China Sea forms a continuous wind system with where it blows an average 25 knots, decreasing to
the NE trade wind of the North Pacific, so that in 15 knots and less among the islands of the
 WI N OS ANO CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACI FIC

<:CJ CLIPPEATON
Equatorial Counter Current

Philippines and Northern Indonesia. However, at monsoon in the western part of the Pacific Ocean.
the height of winter, in December and January, the In the China Sea the winds are predominantly S <.'
monsoon can blow with gale force for many days, and SW, whereas towards Japan they· are either S
the stormiest area being the open waters between or SE. The area affected by the SW monsoon is gen-
the Philippines, Taiwan, and Japan. erally situated west of the 140 'E meridian and
south of latitude 40 'N. Steady SW winds are expe-
The Southwest monsoon rienced in the China Sea during July, but further
north the monsoon is felt less and less and .v ariable
A reversal of the NE monsoon occurs during the winds become increasingly common. The weath-
summer when the heating up of Asia creates a large er during the SW monsoon is often unsettled and
area of low pressure over the eastern part of the there is a high frequency of squalls, in which the
continent. As a result of this, the SE trade winds of wind reaches gale force.
the Indian and Pacific Oceans are drawn across the
equator. Because of the rotation of the earth, the SE
wind~ are deflected to the right becoming the SW

197
 WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC

Variables hurricane season lasts from May to November,

although most hurricanes have been recorded
The two monsoons and the NE trade winds are between June and October, the month with the
replaced on the polar side of the North Pacific by highest frequency being September. The only four
a belt of variable winds. Although it corresponds months considered to be safe are January to April,
to the Horse Latitudes of the Atlantic Ocean, the as hurricanes have occurred in December on a few
variable belt of the North Pacific is much narrow- occasions. As a general rule only the earlier hur-
er and rare!y exceeds 300 miles in width. The vari- ricanes travel to the western lirnif; whereas later in
able zone is influenced by the position of the high the season hurricanes are more likely to stay close
II pressure area, which moves north in summer, when
light and variable winds can be expected between
to the coast. Therefore if a passage through this area
is undertaken towards the end of the hurricane sea-
I latitudes 35'N and 40'N. The high moves south in son, it is advisable to move offshore as quickly as
summer, when it stretches from about 25'N to 30'N. possible.
I The movement of air around the North Pacific high The region affected by typhoons covers a much
has a direct bearing on the winds of the variable larger area stretching all the way from the Caroline
I zone. In the eastern half of the ocean, winds tend Islands to Japan. To the east the area is bounded by
to be northerly in summer and merge with the NE Guam and the Mariana Islands, to the west by the
trades. In the western part of the ocean, the direc- Philippines, Taiwan and the northern part of the
tion of the winds is more southerly so that they South China Sea. The typhoon season is less well
form an extension of the SW monsoon. defined than the hurricanes of the Eastern Pacific
and no month can be regarded as completely safe.
Westerlies However, most typhoons occur between May and
The zone of variable winds is gradually replaced December, and during this period over half the
by an area of prevailing westerlies north c: about typhoons have been recorded between July and
latitude 35 'N. These are not so boisterous as the October. September is the most dangerous month,
westerlies of the Southern Ocean and the northern with an average of over four typhoons. The peri-
limit of the variables is more difficult to define. od with the least likelihood of typhoons is January
Westerly winds are more reliable both in direction to April. As no typhoons have been recorded from
and strength during the winter months, but this is December to April in the area between the north-
hardly the time when anyone would consider cruis- ern part of the China Sea and the western side of
ing in the higher latitudes of the North Pacific, the Eastern Sea, this is considered to be the safest
where the weather is very rough. In summer the time for passages to and from Japan, although this
weather is more benign, when fewer depressions coincides with the winter weather.
race across the North Pacific between Japan and
Alaska. The best weather can be expected in July, Currents
when light to moderate westerly winds predomi-
nate north of latitude 40'N. The surface circulation of the North Pacific Ocean
resembles a huge merry-go-round in which vari-
ous currents move in a clockwise direction around
Tropical storms a cell located slightly offcentre in the northern
There are two areas of the North Pacific Ocean that hemisphere. The main spring of this circular move-
are subject to tropical revolving storms: the ment is the North Equatorial Current which flows
typhoons of the Far East and the hurricanes of the westward with its axis at about latitude 12'N. To
eastern part of the North Pacific. the south of this current is the eastward flowing
The region affected by hurricanes lies in the Equatorial Countercurrent, which has its southern
vicinity of the American coast, south of latitude limits between latitudes 2'N and 4 'N where it is
30'N to about latitude lO"N and west to longitude bounded by the South Equatorial Current.
14o·w . This area includes the Pacific coasts of The North Equatorial Current is fed mainly by
\ ' Mexico and Central America and extends as far off- the California Current and the northern branch of
shore as longitude 140'W, an aspect that must be the Equatorial Countercurrent. Further west it is
I borne in mind by those planning to cross this area
during the dangerous season. Theoretically the
reinforced by the North Pacific Current and further
still it divides in two, the southern branch revers-
I
I , 19s
 WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC

ing its direction to become the Equatorial This southerly drift changes its name to the
Countercurrent, while the northern branch carries Californ'ia Current which flows into the North
on towards Taiwan and Japan. This is the main Equatorial Current thus completing the clockwise
source of the Kuro Shio, a flow of warm water sim- circulation round the North Pacific basin.
ilar to the Gulf Stream of the North Atlantic. The The surface circulation along the Pacific coast of
main difference is that the direction of the Kuro Central America and Gulf of Panama is more errat-
Shio is seasonal, setting to the NE during the SW ic, with great seasonal variations that make pre-
monsoon, but reversing its direction in winter, at dictions impossible. The Equatorial Countercurrent
the height of the NE monsoon. flows into this area and normally is deflected to the
The main direction of the Kuro Shio is NE along north west along the coast of Central America to
the southern coast of Japan. It subsequently fans join the California Current and eventually the
out in about latitude35"N to form the North Pacific North Equatorial Current. In the first months of the
Current. This current, reinforced by the Aleutian year a branch of the Equatorial Countercurrent
Current, flows in a broad band across the North turns south and flows into the South Pacific. In the
Pacific towards America. East of latitude 160"E this Gulf of Panama the movement of water is more
current starts fanning out, part of it turning south, complicated, with an inflow of water at both
while the main body continues eastwards towards extremes and an outflow in the centre that finally
the North American continent where it turns SE. joins the South Equatorial Current.

I
I·

ii
I

I
'II

199
 10
ROUTES IN THE ,.,
NORTH PACIFIC
Ilyonninspite of the great concentration of sailing boats
the west coast of North America, particular-
California, the number of offshore routes in
of the strength of the prevailing winds many peo-
ple who might prefer to sail offshore are forced to
choose the inshore tactic. The one point to remem-
the North Pacific is relatively small. By far the most ber by those heading north is to keep moving and
popular offshore destination is Hawaii; otherwise make the best of calm weather, which rarely lasts
cruising boats from the US or Canada looking for long. It is also worth remembering that November
an offshore challenge have to sail either to the has the lighter winds, especially along the coast of
South Pacific or down the coast of Mexico to the Sea Baja California, whereas May, the other month
of Cortez and beyond to Central America. One when many boats make their way along this coast,
cruising destination which is gaining in popular- has stronger winds. In conclusion, it is better to use
ity is Alaska, which is usually reached by November to move in both directions, and to avoid
Californian boats via Hawaii. In spite of the longer May if at all possible for the northbound passages.
distances involved, a detour ·via Hawaii has the The islands of Micronesia are yet to be discov-
attraction of better winds, as a direct route from ered as a major cruising ground and the relative-
California or the Pacific Northwest would have ly small number of boats visiting them does not
contrary winds all the way. For the sake of sim- bear comparison with the continuing popularity of
plicity, the west coast of North America has been the South Pacific. A few of those cruising the lat-
divided into two large groups, with routes starting ter eventually cross the equator, usually on their
from either California or the Pacific Northwest, the way to the Far East. On the whole, however, very
latter including British Columbia. few boats are seen cruising the countries of the Far
Because of the paucity of offshore destinations, East either. The situation may change in the future,
most cruising is coastal. Inshore passages along the as the number of locally owned boats is steadily
coast of California and beyond are therefore increasing.
beyond the scope of this book. However, because

PN10 ROUTES FROM THE WEST COAST

OF NORTH AMERICA
PNll California to Hawaii 202
PN12 Southbound from California 203
PN13 Northbound from California 204
PN14 California to British Columbia 204
PN15 Alaska to British Columbia 205
.PN16 British ColUmbia to California 20.6
PN17 Pacific Northwest to Hawaii 207

200
 PN10 ROUTES FROM THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA

_.... ~o ·
ALEUTIAN
ISLANDS

40°N

20'N I>""'
HAWAll !P

Clipperton '

o• D
160' W 140' W 120'W ioo•w GALAPAGOS

PNlO Routes from the west coast of North America

The Pacific coast of North America is a more hos- ricane season is from June to October, when the
tile area than its Atlantic counterpart, the weath- tropical areas should be avoided. Mexico and Baja
er is harsher, there are fewer all-weather harbours, California are hit by an average of six hurricanes
and the chilly California Current is exactly the every year, so this part of Mexico should be a void-
opposite to the warm Gulf Stream. The coast, in ed during summer and early autumn. 11

particular the Pacific Northwest, is therefore a real The premier destination for any0ne contem- I
challenge, not only for the sailors setting off from plating an offshore cruise from California, the '!
that area, but also for those, undaunted by its rep- Pacific Torthwest or British Columbia is undoubt-
utation, who have decided to visit this beautiful edly Hawaii. For those who Jack the time for a
region. The Pacific Northwest has indeed a well longer cruise to the South Pacific, Hawaii offers the
earned reputation for gales, rain, and poor visi- chance of a Polynesian landfall which can be
bility. The prevailing winds are either from the reached during an extended summer vacation. For
northwest or less frequently from the southeast. In those who do not wish to return straight away,
summer, from May to September, northwest Hawaii is an excellent springboard for voyages
winds predominate, although some northeast west, to Micronesia and the Far East, or south, to
winds also occur. In winter, as well as the prevail- Tahiti and the rest of Polynesia. ·
ing northwesterlies, southeast winds, often of gale The major meteorological feature affecting
force, are more common. Further south, the hur- routes between the mainland and Hawaii is the

201
 ROUTES JN THE NORTH PA C I FIC

orth Pacific high. In summer it reaches its most by cruising along the coast for some distance and
northwesterly position in about 38 'N, 150"W, while then setting off for distant destinations either from
in winter it moves southeast to approximately Mexico or Costa Rica. This has the ad'(antage of
3o·N, 130"W. The high is particularly stable shaking down both boat and crew while still with-
between June and August, which is the best time in a short distance of stateside facilities.
for return passages to the mainland, although one The ad vantage of an offshore passage south from
I should stay north of the tropics to avoid any hur- California is that the prevailing NW, winds will put
I ricane forming farther south. the boat on a broad reach or run; as soon as the
j Those who are heading south from California coast has been safely left behind. Because of the
bound for some distant destination, be it Panama, dependability of these prevailing winds, it is prefer-
I. Galapagos, Marquesas, or Tahiti, are faced with two able to wait for a period of settled weather with a
choices: either to head offshore and sail direct, or long term forecast of Nor NW winds before setting

l
hug the coast and cruise in shorter stages. Both off on a long passage. Regardless of the final des-
alternatives have certain ad vantages, but as this tination it is advisable to head offshore immediately
book deals with ocean routes only, the second alter- on leaving the coast, as winds tend to be steadier
native will not be dealt with in detail. Some people about one hundred miles from the mainland.
have successfully combined these two alternatives

PNll California to Hawaii

This route enjoys favourable winds throughout the mer hmricanes, there are some months when sail-
year, although few boats attempt to make the pas- ing conditions along this route can be perfect, May
sage in winter, both on account of the cold and the and November fulfilling most of these criteria.
high proportion of strong winds. On the other Good weather can also be found in April, although
hand, summer months carry the risk of tropical an early start is usually associated with colder tem-
storms, August and September being considered peratures. Even when the winds are fair, the sky is
the most dangerous months. Although very few of sometimes overcast making life difficult for those
these storms reach as far west as Hawaii, their who are keen to try their hand at celestial naviga-
tracks sometimes swing to the NW and thereby tion on this long offshore passage.
cross the sailing routes from the mainland. Between The winds for the first few hund red miles are N
the two extremes, the threat of winter gales or sum- or NW becoming NE and finally E closer to Hawaii.

202
 PNlO ROUTES FROM THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA

As the great circle route goes too far north it may main shipping channel, the course should be set for
be better to sail a rhumb line. However, this will WP PN112 and thence along a similar route as the
depend on the position of the Nor th Pacific high one recommended for boats leaving from Los
and the extent of the NE trades, the northern limit Angeles. The above intermediate points are only
of which moves in relation to the high. If it is felt guidelines and the actual route should be dictated
that the course may pass too close to the position by the weather conditions prevailing at the time.
of the high, it is better to detour slighly to the south When making landfall, because of increased
into an area with less pressure than towards the wind strengths in channels separating the
centre of the high. Hawaiian islands, it is usually better to gain the lee
Boats leaving from Los Angeles take their of the islands rather than approach them from
departure at WP PN111, from where the route goes windward. The best landfall in Hawaii for boats
south of the great circle course to WP PN112. From arriving from the continent is Hilo, as it is to wind-
there, the route runs through WPs PN113 and ward of all other ports in the archipelago and there-
PN114 before the course can be altered for the fore a perfect starting point for a cruise among the
Hawaiian port of destination. Boats starting from islands. Honolulu (2118'N, 157"52'W), because of
San Francisco should follow the same advice and its position, is better left for the end of a Hawaiian
set a course which will take them sooner into the cruise.
area of NE trade winds. From WP PN115, off the
PN12 Southbound from California

The best time to make this passage is during the the influence of land breezes and also the many
winter months, when the prevailing winds off the ships that ply the coast closer inshore. The route
Mexican coast are northerly. There is a favourable runs parallel to the coast of Central America and
current along the coast of Mexico, but a contrary gradually curves in to enter the Gulf of Panama at
current further south along the coast of Central Cabo Mala.
America. Boats sailing nonstop along this route Taking its leave of the USA at WP PN121 , south
should stay at least 100 miles off the coast to avoid of San Diego, the route runs parallel to the coast of

203
ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC

Baja California to WPs PN122, PN123, and PN124. more attention should be paid to local weather con-
.The course is then altered at WP PN125 to WP ditions, particularly during the winter months
PN126 before entering the Gulf of Panama at WP January to March when very strong winds occur in
PN127 off Cabe Mala in the approaches to the the gulfs of Tehuantepec and Papagayo. These are
Panama Canal. Boats intending to transit the Canal described in detail in PN20 (page 207). The
should go straight to the Balboa Yacht Club. See inshore route is not recommended during the sum-
page 489 for further instructions. mer, when there is a risk of hurricanes in the area
The other alternative, favoured by many, is to sail and the winds are less consistent, with lo~g peri-
the entire distance in easy stages by calling at the ods of calms. More details on destinations in
different ports en route. If this option is chosen, Central America are given in route PN27 (page 215).

PN13 Northbound from California

Northbound passages from California are difficult During the summer one has to be prepared for
to plan as it is quite rare that one can be certain of a lot of beating, often into strong winds. If one is
favourable winds. Therefore most people plan their planning to motor it is usually better to do this at
cruise to include as many coastal stops as possible. night when the winds are lighter. Especially
In this way it is possible to take advaniage of early along the north coast of California the trip can be
morning breezes. One suggestion for an easier pas- very tough because of the strong northerly winds
sage north is to leave in April with one of the last which blow throughout the summer. However,
southerly gales. At this time of year they are usu- those who have time to make the best of the
ally milder than those of the winter months. adverse weather will be rewarded for their efforts.
Although it may be tempting to rid e one of these The coast of Northern California is replete with
storms, one should be very careful when running beautiful harbours providing shelter from the pre-
along the coast before such a storm as most ports vailing summer winds. Among them Tamales Bay
are on a dangerous lee shore. and Mendocino should not be missed.

PN14 California to British Columbia

 PN10 ROUTES FROM THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA
ITES

Both in winter and summer NW winds predomlnate such a relatively direct route can be sailed will
· arly
along the North American coast, which makes a depend entirely on the windward performance of
;e is
direct offshore passage very difficult if not impos- the boat. The recommended landfall is off Cape ',ast-
sible. There are various ways of dealing with these Flattery, in the approaches to Juan de Fuca Strait.
: the
headwinds and the most radical suggestion is that Extreme caution is necessa ry in the approaches
;e of
the coast should be left immediately on a route head- to the Juan de Fuca Strait because of heavy ship- '?av-
ing offshore for about 200 miles before it turns north. ping and strong currents. Shipping separation 1
:iso
The most favourable tack should then be taken until zones are in operation, with the southern lane being
ude
the latitude of the port of destination is reached. A used by arriving ships and the northern lane . will
new course can then be set to approach the coast on reserved for outgoing traffic. The lanes diverge at
will
the tack that would put the boat to windward of the designated points so as to allow ships to turn either .·nee
destination. An inshore route can also be followed north towards Vancouver or south towards Seattle. ; ·ays
by sailing in shorter hops along the coast and going To complicate matters, there is often a large num- 'the
into a port for shelter as soon as the weather ber of fishing boats around the Swiftsure Bank, east age
becomes threatening. Yet another alternative is to try of the entrance to the strait. Traffic in the area is late
and sail parallel to the coast about 30 mlles offshore controlled by Tofino Radio (VHF channels 16 and ore
so as to be within range of VHF weather broadcasts 74). Incoming vessels are requested to report when ind
and shelter if necessary. In case of choosing one of due south of Amphitrite Point. The station operates 3 'E
the inshore alternatives, great care must be paid not a regular roll call, every ship reporting their posi- : .JW
only to the weather but also the difficulty of cross- tion, speed, and course. In bad visibility the station . ide
ing river bars or entering some of the harbours if the will advise ships that are in the vicinity of a small ··the
winds blow onshore. If the offshore alternative is boat's position. The station will also assist yachts
chosen, from Reyes Point an initial course should be with directions and may even track such vessels on I
.ffi -
sailed to a point about 200 miles offshore. Whether radar. ·"ble
·: 1gh
PN15 Alaska to British Columbia
j i:~
I Of

;he
. ' ~ly
'·

The winds in the Gulf of Alaska are variable in ward across the Gulf. Fog can be another hazard
direction during the summer months, with a slight during the crossing, but gales are rare in summer.
predominance of westerly winds. Later in the sea- Prince Rupert harbour, where entry formalities into
son, SE winds are not uncommon making east- Canada can be completed, is reached through
bound passages across the Gulf difficult. Also Dixon Strait, between Prince of Wales and Graham
contrary is the Aleutian Current, which sets west- Islands.

205 19
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC

Because the sailing season in Alaska is so brief, Dutch Harbour or Kodiak should sail due south for
most people are in a hurry when the time comes to 200-300 miles to avoid the area affected by the lows
move south. Although a faster passage can be made tracking across the Pacific and then pick up the
on an offshore route, few people choose to miss the direct course with the help of the prevailing west-
unsurpassed beauty of the inshore route that erlies. Boats leaving from Kodiak, from WP PN151
threads its way past countless islets and inlets should set a course for WP PN152. From there the
I along British Columbia's fragmented coast. A rec- course can be altered to reach Victoria by going
ommended alternative is to cruise the area in south of Vancouver Island throug'h the Juan de
I reverse order by sailing from British Columbia to
Alaska in short stages, cross the Gulf of Alaska in
Fuca Strait, making landfall off Cape Flattery at WP
PN153. An alternative is to approach Vancouver
r summer and sail back to British Columbia at the
end of the summer cruising season. The sailing sea-
Island through Queen Charlotte Sound by making
landfall north of Cape Scott at WP PN154. Similar
I son is very short and lasts from May to the middle
of September. In July, the North Pacific high may
directions apply for those leaving from Dutch
Harbour on Unalaska Island. From WP PNISS the
i reach as far as the Prince William Sound, ensuring
light winds and pleasant weather.
initial course leads to WP PN156 before the
course is altered for one of the landfalls suggest-
11
Boats setting off on the offshore route from either ed above.

Ii PN16 British Columbia to California

11

II
11

I
11

I
I
I
I Winds along this route are always favourable and
the south-setting California Current provides an
is San.Francisco, landfall is made at WP PN164 off
Reyes Point, from where Bonita Channel leads into
added bonus. The offshore route is to be preferred San Francisco Bay.
11
for most southbound passages and, once chosen, Because of the stronger winds and bigger swell
I one should stay at least 100 miles off the coast. further offshore, some people prefer th e inshore
Because of the pressure gradient between the off- route. This is an attractive alternative when sailing
shore high and the continental low pressure sys- in the other direction, but is less attractive to south-
tem, winds tend to be stronger and seas higher bound boats determined to cover the distance in
more than 60 miles from land than closer inshore. the shortest time possible. Because several harbours
However, because of the drawbacks of the inshore have bars and are difficult or dangerous to enter
route, which are described below, the offshore route when there is a heavy swell, extreme caution is
is to be preferred. From WP PN161, off Cape needed if sailing the inshore route. Another haz-
Flattery, the initial course goes to WP PN162. From ard along this coast is fog, which often reduces vis-
there the route goes due south to the latitude of ibility drastically and can be extremely dangerous
Cape Mendacino before the course is altered at WP because of the high amount of shipping.
PN163 for the port of destination. If the destination

206
 PN10 ROUTES FROM THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA

PN17 Pacific Northwest to Hawaii

Good weather conditions prevail throughout the be altered for Hawaii until the latitude of San
summer months, but in order to avoid the hurri- Francisco is reached. Although a great circle
cane season, the passage should be planned for late route can be taken to Hawaii from about 40'N, it
spring or early summer. Although the route cross- is usually better to stay slightly south of the rhumb
es an area where tropical cyclones have occurred line. The NE trades will be met somewhere
in the past, the danger of encountering such a storm between latitudes 28" and 30 "N, from where the
at the recommended time is fairly remote. winds should remain favourable all the way to
However, weather forecasts should be listened to Hawaii.
regularly during the summer to avoid any tropical Leaving from WP PN171 the route passes
storms which may be heading that way. To avoid through two intermediate waypoints PN172 and
westerly winds or straying into the North Pacific PN173 before the course can be altered for the
high at the beginning of the voyage, setting a direct Hawaiian port of destination. For boats arriving
course to Hawaii on departure is not recom- from the NE the most convenjent port of entry is
mended. Better conditions will be found by taking HHo on Hawaii Island. Landfall can be made at WP
a southerly course, which will benefit both from PN174 NE of the Big Island and some five miles
northerly winds and the favourable current. It is from Hilo itself.
generally recommended that the course should not

PN20 PACIFIC ROUTES FROM

CENTRAL AMERICA AND MEXICO
PN21 Panama to Central America and Mexico 209
PN22 Central America and Mexico to California 210
PN23 Panama to British Columbia 212
PN24 Panama to Alaska 213
PN25 Panama to Hawaii 214
PN26 Central America and Mexico to Hawaii 215
PN27 Central America and Mexico to Panama 215
For boats which have transited the Panama Canal either to stay in the North Pacific, where there is a
there is a rather limited choice of routes heading out narrow range of initial destinations, or to head
into the Pacific. Basically, there are two options: towards the South Pacific, where the choices mul-

207
 . ..
; · :;:;· :,.";·..;::.-._...~- . -.-•.--..-- ~-· --·

ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC

tiply constantly as one moves west. Similarly a con- Panama it is best to plan to transit the Canal
siderable proportion of offshore routes from Central between November and April, so as to avoid the
America are also southbound and transequatorial. danger of being caught by a hurricane off the coast
These transequatorial routes and routes in the South of Central America.
Pacific are described in chapters 11 and 13. Before sailing out of the Gulf of Panama, some
Sailing directly from Panama to the west coast of boats stop at the Las Perlas Islands, which have
North America is a difficult undertaking. An alter- some excellent anchorages. They belong to Panama
native preferred by many as the best way to reach and one is not allowed to stop there after having
California, and especially ports further north, is to cleared out in Balboa, without having obtained a
sail first to Hawaii. Panama is a good starting point cruising permit.
for sailing to ports on the west coast of Central The most popular route leaving from Panama is
America and as the distances involved are rela- that to the Galapagos Islands (route PT12). Most
tively short, even if unfavourable conditions are boats bound for the South Pacific take advantage
encountered at least they do not have to be endured of the conveniently placed Galapagos Islands to
for too long. Because the hurricane season affects make at least a brief stop in these islands made
most of this area between June and October, sail- famous by Charles Darwin. It is no longer per-
ing to Mexico or California during these months mitted to cruise around the islands, which are a
should be avoided. Therefore if heading north from protected nature reserve, but a 72 hour stop can be

_v L>
0-
ALEUTIAN
ISLANDS

40°N

/) ,, \;o
20' N
HAWAII [)>

160°W 140' W 120°W

PN20 Pacific routes from Central America and Mexico

208
 PN20 PACIFIC ROUTES FROM CENTRAL AMERICA AND MEXICO

·made a t the d iscretion of the port captain at either seas. Local conditions along the coast do vary very
of the two ports of entry, Baquerizo Moreno (Wreck much with the topography of the land . Two local
Bay) on San Cristobal Island and Puerto Ayora weather phenomena, which affect particularly the
(Academy Bay) on Santa Cruz Island. Because of inshore routes, are the very strong winds which
these restrictions, some boats avoid the Galapagos take their name from the gulfs where they occur,
Islands altogether and head straight for the Papagayo and Tehuantepec. The worst period is
Marquesas and French Polynesia (PT13). from October to April, with the highest frequency
Those who want to visit ports along the west between the end of November and the end of
coast of South America are faced with a tough voy- January. The effect of these winds can be felt as far
age against wind and current (PT 11 ). A few boats as 150 miles offshore.
make this trip every year showing that, in spite of Papagayos are caused by an intensification of the
all difficulties, it can be done. The alternative is to NE trade winds on the Caribbean side of the isth-
postpone visiting South America until one is far- mus. The winds reach the Pacific through a gap in
ther west in the Pacific when Chile can be easier the Cordillera where they blow with great force.
reached with the help of favourable westerly winds Further north, the Tehuantepecers are caused by a
of higher latitudes. However, this is a long and build up of atmospheric pressure over the Gulf of
tough trip which may be less attractive than a beat Mexico, the resulting winds blowing over the con-
against the Humboldt current. The major attraction tinental divide and being felt most strongly in the
of such a foray down the coast of South America Gulf of Tehuantepec. Both winds reach gale force
is the opportunity to visit Ecuador and Peru as well 8 and even 9, and are very difficult to predict local-
as some rarely frequented islands such as Easter, ly. However, by following weather forecasts for the
Pitcairn or Gambier. Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean area it is usually pos-
Apart from the occasional norther, rare wester- sible to predict when changes in weather condi-
ly, or summer hurricane, the west coasts of tions on the Atlantic side of Central America or
Central America could be described as having a Mexico will affect its Pacific shores.
truly Pacific weather with little wind and smooth

PN21 Panama to Central America and Mexico

Northbound passages to ports on the Pacific coast Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Honduras, El Salvador,
of Central America are always difficult due either Guatemala, an!f there are several attractive cruis-
to contrary winds or prolonged periods of calms. ing areas on the way. The reception extended to vis-
Although a favourable current can be expected as iting yachts by the various Central American
far as the Gulf of Fonseca, from there onwards the countries depends very much on the political sit-
current is mostly contrary. One should be prepared uation at the time, and occasionally also on the
to take advantage of every shift of wind and also nationality of the yacht in question.
to use the engine when necessary in order to One of the most attractive stops on the coast is
counter the unfavourable current. The area is prone Golfito, in Costa Rica (8 "36'N, 83°12'W). In
to thunderstorms with intense lightning. Nicaragua the ports of Corin to (12 '28'N, 87"11 'W)
Because of these factors, most people prefer to and San Juan del Sur (11 "lS'N, 85 "53'W) have
treat this route as a coastal hopping exercise. Stops attracted mixed comments, while the Honduran
can be made in all Central American countries, port of San Lorenzo (13 '25'N, 87"27'W) has been

209
ROUTES IN THE NORTH PAC!FIC

recommended as an emergency stop. ln El Salvador consists mostly of coastal cruising, are beyond the
the situation has improved dramatically with the scope of this book. However, attention must be
cessation of hostilities and a good place to stop is drawn to the two areas where the weather can seri-
Acajutla (13"36'N, 89"50'W), which is one of El ously affect the inshore route. These are the gulfs
Salvador's official ports of entry, the other being of Tehuantepec and Papagayo, where the strong
Cutuco (1319'N, 87°49'W). On entering the Gulf of local winds described in the introduction to this
Fonseca, the Salvadorean Coast Guard should be section can occur. Both north and southbound
contacted on VHF channel 16. Stopping at one of inshore passages should attempt~ transit the Gulf
the ports on the Pacific coast of Guatemala has lit- of Tehauntepec at the change of seasons, either
tle attraction, but beyond that stretches the long around the middle of May or early in November.
coast of Mexico, its main cruising attraction being January and February are the months to avoid
located in its northern part - Baja California and the because of the high frequency of these gale force
Sea of Cortez. winds.
Detailed directions for this inshore route, which

PN22 Central America and Mexico to California

210
 PN20 PACIFIC ROUTES FROM CENTRAL AMERICA AND MEXICO

WAYl?Dll•ffS:
Departure

For boats leaving from Panama, this can be a long altering course to the NW into the NE trade wind
and arduous trip. For this reason it has been sug- zone. However, if winds are favourable after pass-
gested that it is easier to sail from Panama to ing Cabo Mala, a more direct route can be sailed to
Hawaii and thence to the west coast of North California. The initial course on this route (PN 22C)
America, rather than direct to California, especially runs parallel to the coast of Central America as far
for those who like long offshore passages and are as Costa Rica, keeping only about 20 miles off the
not pressed for time. If a detour to Hawaii is con- coast. From northern Costa Rica at WP PN2210, the
sidered, details for that passage are given in route route heads due west for about 1000 miles to WP
PN25. PN2211, just north of Clipperton Island. The route
A nonstop passage from Panama to California
should be undertaken well offshore where better
then runs parallel to the mainland coast in a NW
direction gradually curving towards the port of
,,
winds can be expected, even if a longer distance has destination by using the existing winds to best 1:.,
to be covered. After leaving the Gulf of Panama, advantage. If taking this route one must be pre- .:J
one should attempt to reach the SE trade wind area pared to motorsail when necessary, especially dur-
as soon as possible to take full advantage of both ,ing the first leg from Panama northwards. This
the SE winds and favourable current. From June to route is often preferred by delivery skippers, who
January, the recommended route PN22A runs recommend its use particularly during the first
between the Galapagos Islands and latitude 5'N as months of the year.
far as meridian 105 'W. At WP PN222 the course is Another alternative is to stay relatively close to
altered to pass west of Clipperton Island at WP the coast all the way, the advantage oflhis course
PN223. For southern Californian ports (Los of action being that one can find shelter in some of
Angeles, San Diego) the most favourable tack the ports en route such as Puerto Madero or Salina
should be taken after WP PN224 has been passed. Cruz. The first part of this coastal route is
After picking up the NE trade winds and if the des- described in PN21. Two local weather phenomena
tination is San Francisco, course is altered for WP must be taken into account if taking this inshore
PN225 from where the course sailed depends route during winter and they are the strong winds
entirely on the winds that are encountered. in the gulfs of Papagayo and Tehuantepec. The
From February to May after leaving the Gulf of worst period is from October to April, with the
Panama the recommended route (AN22B) passes highest frequency between the end of November
south of the Galapagos Islands. It then heads west and the end of January. The effect of the winds can
as far as WP PN226 and then to WP PN227 before be felt as much as 150 miles offshore. The advice

211
 && l
i
ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC

given by captains of boats plying this coast regu- December, the approach of a cold front in the North
larly is to stay as close inshore as safety will per- Pacific will stop the prevailing NW winds and
mjt. There are several ports en route where shelter bring calms or light winds. fn late spring, when
can be sought, although by sailing close to the shore there are strong head winds offshore, close inshore
one should be able to handle even the strongest it is often possible to make good progress with the
winds. help of the diurnal land and sea breezes. The rec-
When sailing north from Panama one should plan ommended tactic is to stay near the shore during
to be north of Cabo San Lucas by 1st June, especially the calm night and morning hours, and then tack
as some insurance companies make this provision offshore in the afternoon. Being close to shore, it is
in their policies in view of the hurricane season in then possible to find an anchorage when conditions
Central America. This consideration, coupled with are not favourable.
weather conditions in the Caribbean, make it advis- Boats taking the offshore route from Panama or
able to plan on transiting the Panama Canal early Costa Rica can break the trip at offshore islands,
in the year, so as to have plenty of time either to such as Cocos Island (5"30'N, 87'00'W), 285 miles
reach the west coast before the onset of the hurri- off Costa Rica. The island is a nature reserve and
cane season or to make alternative arrangements. has some resident wardens, but boats are allowed
The northbound routes from Mexico are never to stop. Even more remote is the French possession,
easy, but if the weather is watched carefully, the Cllpperton Island (10 '17'N, 109'15'W), which is
occasional window will provide favourable con- uninhabited, although occasionally it is visited by
ditions. Often in November, and occasionally meteorologists and other scientists.

PN23 Panama to British Columbia

Directions for this route are similar to those for other two routes, both of which have advantages
route PN22 and in fact skippers are faced with and also some serious disadvantages. The choice
exactly the same dilemma whether they intend to of route should depend primarily on the windward
sail from Panama to California or all the way to performance of the boat itself as much of the voy-
British Columbia. The choice is between a relatively age will be hard on the wind, and for this reason
direct route along the coast of Central America, an those who are not prepared to face a beat of several
indirect offshore route or a grand detour via thousand miles, or whose boat may not be up to the
Hawaii. If the prospect of such a long detour via challenge, should perhaps reconsider their plans.
Hawaii is not acceptable, the choice is between the The offshore route (PN23A) offers a greater cer-

212
 PN20 PACIFIC ROUTES FROM CENTRAL AMERICA AND MEXICO

tainty of favourable winds for the first half of the altered for the coast. Much will depend on the posi-
voyage but then becomes a hard beat against the tion of the North Pacific high, and one may either
prevailing winds. The route that runs parallel to the have to go further ·west to avoid it altogether, or
coast (PN23B) is shorter but depends more on the power through it, if one is so inclined. In the first
use of the engine. In both cases the final leg north instance, depending on the season, it may be nec-
of latitude 30'N may prove to be the toughest essary to go as far north as latitude 43 'N before
because of the high proportion of N and NW winds turning towards the coast of British Columbia (see
during the summer months. No waypoints are given also route PN32, page 219). If the passage is under-
for the second route as the best way to go should be taken in November, the time of arrival in British
decided by the weather conditions at the time. Columbia will be so late that one should consider
If route PN23A is sailed in April or May, from spending the winter in Hawaii. At that time of year,
WP PN232, off Coiba Island, the shortest route a great circle route can be sailed from Panama to
should be sailed to WP PN233. From there, the Hawaii and one can count on both favourable
route continues due north following as closely as winds and current for almost the entire distance.
possible meridian 130'W before the course is

PN24 Panama to Alaska

A detour via Hawaii (see route PN25) has certain those given for route PN23. A first recommended
advantages over a nonstop passage to Alaska, espe- intermediate waypoint is PN243, but whether one
cially between September and March when it can sail a direct course for this point will depend
would be either too late or too early to head for entirely on the performance of the boat, as much
Alaska. From April to August the more direct route of the passage will be close on the wind. From
should be considered, the best month for a north- PN243 a new course is set for WP PN244, from
bound passage probably being May as it means where the route should arc northwards by trying
arriving in Alaska at the beginning of the summer to keep west of the North Pacific high. North of lat-
sailing season. This also means that the area affect- itude 40 'N favourable winds can be expected for
ed by tropical storms will have been sailed most of the way, as above 40'N an average of 70 per
through during the safe season. cent of the winds are from between 5 and W. The
Directions as far as latitude 30 'N are similar to weather gets increasingly cold as higher latitudes

213
 r ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC

I are reached and north of latitude 40'N there is also

a high proportion of fog.
PN245, southeast of Kodiak Island. From that point
the route runs along the east coast of that island to
From WP PN244 the best course is sailed for WP WP PN246 from where it enters Kodiak Harbour.
i
I PN25 Panama to H'°;;waii
I
I
I
I
I
.1
I
I
i
I

:1'[.I
I
I
The painful dilemma faced by all those who plan to leaving Panama at WP PN250 should stay west of
I sail from Panama to Hawaii is whether to follow the Las Perlas Islands and continue south to WP PN251 .
traditional sailing route and make a detour of some From there a course is set fo.r WP PN252 by sailing
I 1000 miles or take the great circle route and hope for
the best. The great circle route skirts an area of calms
north of the Galapagos Islands to take advantage of
both favourable wind and current. From WP
I and light winds between longitudes 80'W and
110'W, which can be avoided by following the direc-
PN252 the great circle course can be joined to
Hawaii.
I tions given to the masters of sailing ships who were
advised to always try and make their westing with
From February to May after leaving the Gulf of
Panama the recommended route (PN25B) heads
I the help of the SE trade winds (route PN25A). This south and passes south of the Galapagos Islands.
means sailing south of latitude 5 'N until meridian Westing is made close to the equator, to take full
I UO'W is crossed and then take the great circle route advantage of the prevailing SE winds and
from WP PN252 to Hawaii. This southerly route is favourable current. From WP PN255, the great cir-
I strongly recommended during the hurricane season cle course is joined for Hawaii.
(June to October), when the great circle route from For the rest of the year, between November and
Panama.passes through an area of tropical storms February, the direct route from Panama (PN25C) is
west of Mexico. Boats sailing this longer route and to be preferred as it takes less time to reach the NE

214
 PN20 PACIFIC ROUTES FROM CENTRAL AMERICA ANO MEXICO

trade wind belt, which extends further south in win- port of entry, for boats arriving from the east, is Hilo.
ter. If the passage is undertaken in November, For those who prefer to break up this passage
favourable winds and current can be expected for into shorter stages, it is possible to sail first to Costa
almost the entire distance. Having left the Gull of Rica, either in one offshore leg, or in short hops
Panama, from WP PN256, a great circle course can along the coast. From there similar directions apply
be set for WP PN257, off Cape Kumuhaki, at the for the rest of the voyage to Hawaii as for route
eastern extremity of Hawaii Island. A convenient PN26.

PN26 Central America and Mexico to Hawaii

Tropical storms affect this route throughout the unsettled, with thunderstorms and variable winds.
summer, although boats leaving from Mexico are The winds offshore are very steady during the early
at greater risk than those setting off from Costa summer, especially west of longitude 120'W. In
Rica, where the route can be easily shaped to stay November and December the trade winds are
south of the danger area. Mainly because of the much stronger and there is often a big swell, the
threat of these storms, most passages on this route result of gales further north.
are made either before June or after October. At all A direct course can be normally sailed at the rec-
times it is essential to move offshore as quickly as ommended times. Landfall will be made at WP
possible to escape the influence of the land and find PN263, off Cape Kumuhaki, at the eastern extrem-
the prevailing NE trades. In April and early May, ity of Hawaii Island. A convenient port of entry is
the weather in the vicinity of the coast is often Hilo, on the east coast of that same island.

PN27 Central America and Mexico to Panama

215
 """- .,... -----··- -- -- - -

ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC

I
I
Because of the lack of protected harbours in cally with the coming of peace. A good place to
J Guatemala and the political situation in El Salvador stop is Acajutla (13 '36'N, 89'50'W), which is one of
I and Nicaragua, until recently most boats preferred
to sail nonstop from Mexico to Costa Rica. In spring
El Salvador's official ports of entry, the other being
Cutuco (13 '19'N, 87'49'W). On entering the Gulf of
J and autumn, the winds are often light and there are Fonseca, the Salvadorean Coast Guard should be
frequent calms. The situation is very different in contacted on VHF channel 16. The Honduran port
I winter, when gale force winds make the crossing of San Lorenzo (13 '25'N, 87'27'W) has been rec-
of the gulfs of Tehuantepec and Papagayo a daunt- ommended as an emergency stop, while in
J
ing experience. When sailing relatively dose to the Nicaragua the ports of Corin to (12 '28'N, 87 '1l 'W)
JI coast, the strong NW setting current has caused and San Juan de! Sur (ll '15'N, 85 '53'W) have
problems for those dosing with the coast thinking attracted mixed comments. One of the most
JI that they were already in Costa Rican waters but attractive stops on the Costa Rica coast is Golfito
JI were in fact still in Nicaragua. The topography (8 '36'N, 83 '12'W).
along the south coast of Nicaragua is very similar The alternative to the inshore route is to sail well
II to the north of Costa Rica, so it is easy to make such off the coast thereby avoiding the effect of the local
a mistake. It is therefore advisable to keep well off- strong winds described earlier. This makes sense,
shore and only approach the coast when absolute- especially if leaving from northern Mexico, so that
11: ly sure of the position. the entire passage is made well offthe coast and the
The reception extended to visiting yachts by the Gulf of Tehuantepec is passed at some 400-500
11 various Central American countries depends very miles offshore. The route then curves towards
11 much on the political situation at the time, and Cocos Island (5 '33'N, 87'02'W), where a stop is rec-
occasionally also on the nationality of the yacht in ommended, before entering the Gulf of Panama at
question. Stopping at one of the ports on the Pacific Cabo Mala. Directions for transiting the Panama
'1
,1 coast of Guatemala has little attraction, whereas in Canal are given on page 489.
El Salvador the situation has improved drarnati-
IJ

JI
'1 1 PN30 RO UTES FRO M HAWAII
11 PN31 Hawaii to Alaska 218
1, PN32 Hawaii to the Pacific Northwest 219
PN33 Hawaii to California 220
1, PN34 Hawaii to Central America and Mexico 221
I· PN35 Hawaii to Line Islands 222
J' PN36 Hawaii to Marshall Islands 223
,,1' PN37 Hawaii to Japan 223

Ii
/1
216
 PN30 ROUTES FROM HAWAII

.. ··~ .....
ALEUTIAN
ISLANDS

20'N

•GUAM

GALAPAGOSb
16D' E 180' 160'W 140°W 12D' W 1DO'W
I
PN30 Routes from Hawaii
The main attraction of America's outpost in the March, becoming more easterly later on. The NE
North Pacific are the NE trade winds which ensure trade winds are stronger near these islands than any-
a fast downwind passage from ports on the west where else in the Pacific. Lighter winds and calms
coast of America, especially from those in can be experienced in October, while in November
California. Hawaii's main disadvantage is the same and December southerly winds can interrupt the
trade winds, which make a return voyage to those trades. The worst months are January and February,
ports a more difficult undertaking. The logical solu- when S and SW gales called konas strike, lasting from
tion for a return passage with fair winds is to make a few hours to 2-3 days and bringing rain.
a big sweep to northward hoping to find in high- The high volcanic islands do affect winds local- i
\·
er latitudes the favourable winds needed for the ly and gentle land and sea breezes flow on and off
passage home. The prevailing NE winds also make the land. The trades also divide and flow around
a return to Hawaii very difficult from any of the the coast to the north and south of Molokai and
Micronesian islands to the west, and forward plan- Maui especially. Because of the height of most
ning should be the main concern for anyone plan- islands, there is a considerable wind shadow in
ning a voyage to or from Hawaii. Most routes in or their lee and the trade winds are sometimes blocked
out of Hawaii are under the direct influence of the altogether. On the other hand, in the channels
North Pacific high, which generates the NW between the islands the wind is accelerated, par-
winds that prevail along the Pacific coasts of ticularly strong gusts and rough seas being expe-
Canada and the USA as well as the NE trade winds rienced in the Alenuihaha Channel separating Maui
mentioned above. Boats returning to continental from the Big Island. Winds tend to be lighter in the
America are faced with a difficult obstacle by the morning before the trades strengthen for the day.
same high which must be bypassed to avoid the Of all the routes originating in Hawaii, only the
calms and light winds associated with it. Although route across the equator to Tahiti (PT25) oHers a
the Hawaiian islands are rarely affected by tropi- chance of good passages in both directions,
cal storms, some have occurred there in recent although this is not the main reason for the popu- .,
years and this should be borne in mind by those larity of this route. Ever since the South Pacific was
who are there in summer. put on the world cruising map in the early 30s,
The NE trade winds prevail around Hawaii for Hawaii has been used as a convenient stepping
most of the year. The winds tend to be northerly in stone by boats on their way to other Polynesian

217
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC

destinations. Modem sailing boats have given back The eastern part of the North Pacific lends itself
to Hawaii its important position at the apex of the to a circular route, which can be easily accom-
triangle linking the far flung corners of Polynesia, plished in as little as six months. By sailing to
from Aotearoa (New Zealand) in the west to Rapa Hawaii in late winter or early spring, preferably
1 ui (Easter Island) in the east. For a foray into the from a port in California, one benefits from the best
South Seas, the islands of Hawaii offer an excellent sailing conditions across. The early summer is then
starting point. For those who are not afraid of sail- spent exploring the Hawaiian islands before the
ing a little farther in search of better winds, Hawaii return voyage is undertaken, idejllly not later than
is in just as convenient a position, whether the des- July. That would allow sufficient time for a short
tination is in Japan, Alaska, or the Pacific cruise in British Columbia before sailing back to
Northwest. California in the autumn.

PN31 Hawaii to Alaska

I
11

1:
11

i Summer is undoubtedly the best time to make this

passage and most boats which take this north-
40'N an average of 70 per cent of the winds are
from between Sand W. The weather gets increas-
I bound route normally leave Hawaii in the second ingly cold as higher latitudes are reached and north
half of June. Such a departure ensures longer and of latitude 40"N there is also a high proportion of
II warmer days in higher latitudes and at least one
month of cruising in Alaska before heading south
fog. This can be a cause of concern because of the
large amount of shipping, both cargo and fishing
,1 again. boats. Yet another problem is the overcast sky,
I The course from Hawaii is almost due north and which is a feature of higher latitudes in summer.
skirts the western edge of the North Pacific high. The permanent cloud cover makes it impossible to
lj In summer (June to August), the high is normally take sun sights, which makes satellite navigation
centred around 38"N, lSO'W. NE winds normally almost indispensable.
persist at least as far as latitude 30"N before being A favourite starting point from Hawaii is
\: replaced by variable winds. In some years the shift Hanalei Bay on Kauai Island. From WP311, outside
/i to westerlies can be quite abrupt, in other years Hanalei Bay, the course is almost due north along
steady westerly winds are almost nonexistent and meridian 160"W, so as to keep west of the Pacific
Ii light winds and calms persist all the way to Alaska. high. From WP PN312 the course is altered for WP
11 Generally, however, favourable winds can be PN313, east of Kodiak Island. From that point the
expected for most of the way, as above latitude route runs along the east coast of that island to WP
11

! 218
11
 PN30 R OUTES FR OM H AWAII

PN314 in the approaches to Kodiak Harbour. The through Akutan Pass to reach Dutch Harbour in
well protected harbour is best entered from NE Unalaska Bay on the north coast of Unalaska
through a dredged channel, which leads N of Near Island. Dutch Harbour is a better starting point
Island to Kodiak, an old town on the NW shore of than Kodiak for a cruise along the northern shore
Kodiak Harbour. Boats bound for Du tch Harbour of the Gulf of Alaska. However, if time is short and
will follow similar direc;:tions and, from WP one wishes to spend some time cruising on the way
PN312, will set course for WP315 off Sedanka south, Kodiak is probably a better choice.
Island. The course can then be altered to sail

PN32 Hawaii to the Pacific Northwest

The summer months are to be preferred for this their engines try to steer the shortest course
passage, not so much because they ensure better across and are occasionally rewarded by a faster,
winds, but because the weather is warmer. Indeed, if windless, passage. In recent years, the most com-
faster passages have been made in February, when mon strategy has been to sail north to the limit of
a higher proportion of southerly winds have made the NE trade winds and then use the engine to
it possible to sail almost a great circle course to Juan reach the area of prevailing westerlies. For those
de Fuca. At all other times the recommendation is who prefer to sail all or most of the way, there is less
to sail due north on leaving Hawaii and only start choice, and their reward for a longer and colder
turning east when stead y westerly winds are met. passage into higher latitudes is a fast reach in
This normally happens above latitude 40"'N and the steady westerlies. As the route skirts the fringes of
point where the route takes on tha t easterly curve the high, the skies are often overcast and celestial
is furthest north in August and furthest sou th in navigation is usually impossible.
December. In summer it might be necessary to go Because of the needed northing, boats usually
as far north as 45 'N before being able to turn east. leave from Hanalei Bay on Kauai and take their
With the approach of au tumn, the North Pacific departure from Hawaii at WP PN321. Ii1termediate
high starts moving south, wh ich means that the waypoints cannot be given for the reasons
swing to the north need not be so great. However, d escribed above, but in summer, one may have to
such an advantage has to be weighed against the head as far north as WP PN322 before altering
increase in gale force winds. course for the mainland coast. Landfall will be
This route depends very much on the position of made at WP PN323, NW of Cape Flattery in the
the North Pacific high, which in su mmer is centred approaches to Juan de Fuca Strait.
on 38"'N, 150'W. The recommended route follows Besides the weather, there are several hazards to
its western edge and then curves around its north- wa tch out for on this route, such as the large fish-
ern fringe trying to avoid the calms that are met if ing nets, which are often left unattended and even
the area of h igh pressure is crossed. Undeterred by unlit. Such nets have been reported anywhere
this prospect, some people who are prepared to use between 35' N and 45'N and as far west as 145'W.

219
ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACJFJC

Another hazard, especially north of 40 "N is dense the entrance to the strait. Traffic in the area is con-
fog. Extreme caution is necessary in the approach- trolled by Tofino Radio (VHF channels 16 and 74).
es to Juan de Puca Strait because of heavy shipping Incoming vessels are requested to report when due
and strong currents. Shipping separation zones are south of Amphitrite Point. The station operates a
in operation, with the southern Jane being used by regular roll call, every ship reporting their position,
arriving ships and the northern Jane reserved for speed, and course. In bad visibility the station will
outgoing traffic. The lanes diverge at designated advise ships that are in the vicinity of a small boat's
points so as to allow ships to turn either north position. The station will also assi~t yachts with
towards Vancouver or south towards Seattle. To directions and may even track sdch vessels on
complicate matters, there is often a large number radar.
of fishing boats around the Swiftsure Bank, east of

PN33 Hawaii to California

Directions for this route are almost the same as for curves gradually northeast and then east for one's
PN32 as sailing a direct course from Hawaii to destination. The August turning point is the most
California is seldom possible due to the prevailing northerly in latitude 40'N, or even higher. Because
NE winds. The recommended sailing route from the recommended summer routes make destina-
Hawaii runs almost due north before turning east tions in the Pacific Northwest closer than those in
once the area of steady westerly winds has been California, boats from South California often take
reached . The turning point varies in latitude advantage of this by cruising some of that area
throughout the year, being as far north as 40'N in before heading for home.
summer and 32"N in winter. The recommended Boats sailing nonstop to San Francisco should
summer route turns quite sharply at the point make landfall at WP PN335 off Point Reyes, at the
where steady westerlies are met, whereas at other entrance into the traffic separation zone. In poor
times the route follows a curve that turns gradu- visibility one should contact the US Coastguard
ally NE and then E towards the port of destination. Vessel Traffic Service (CVTS) on VHF Channel 16
If the passage is made at the end of winter, in to obtain information on shipping traffic.
February or March, the route should start turning As described in PN32, all these routes are great-
NE at about latitude 30"N (WP PN332) when the ly influenced by the position of the North Pacific
best course should be set for the port of destination. high, as they attempt to follow the contour of this
'The NE turning point in May is somewhere area of high pressure. Boats with a good windward
around WP PN333, and in August WP PN334. performance can often take a more direct route than
From these hypothetical waypoints the route the recommended one, as can those whose skippers

220
 PN30 ROUTES FROM HAWAII

are prepared to make their easting with help from thing while under the influence of the NE trade
the engine. Some fast passages have been made in winds and sail east with the westerlies of high lat-
May by boats taking the great circle route and itudes. In between 't he two systems one may not
motorsailing to windward in light winds. At other have much choice except to use the engine. How-
times, boats heading for Southern California have ever, as the position of the North Pacific high has
tried to beat their way across by keeping south of such a bearing on all routes to the mainland, it is
the high, something that can be done especially if essential to obtain a long term forecast before leav-
one is able to keep track of the weather. Otherwise ing Hawaii so as to be able to plot the best course
it is better to follow the old practice of making nor- in relation to the existing weather conditions.

PN34 Hawaii to Central America and Mexico

Because .of the prevailing northeasterly winds, es north of the Galapagos Islands with the winds
which blow throughout the year on the direct route becoming increasingly Sand SW so that the route
to continental America, directions for passages.to can gradually curve to NE and the Gulf of
ports in Northern Mexico are similar to those Panama, where landfall will be made at WP PN343
described in PN33. Reaching Mexico from Hawaii off Cabo Mala.
by such a roundabout route is so time consuming Boats bound for Costa Rica may be able to alter
that one should think seriously before committing course earlier for WP344 north of Cocos Island. The
oneself to such a passage. The alternative is only island belongs to Costa Rica and has a good anchor-
marginally more attractive, as it entails a similar. age in Chatham Bay (5 '33'N, 87"02'W). The voyage
detour to the south. Ports in Central America, and
especially Panama, can be reached by such a south-
can then be continued to mainland Costa Rica to
WP345, at the entrance to Golfo Dulce a!"d the port
I
ern route, which is best sailed in late October or of Golfito. j
November. Recommended waypoints are only list- Even in a month when the best conditions can be
ed for such a southern route. expected along these routes, such as November,
A good starting point from Hawaii is Hilo. From this will be a tough passage and should only be
WP PN341, outside Hilo, existing weather condi- undertaken in extremis after all other alternatives
tions should be used to best advantage to reach WP have been considered. It is also essential that the
PN342. An area of prevailing SE and S winds voyage is made in a boat that goes well to wind-
extends eastwards from this point and also the east- ward as much of the passage will be hard on the
setting Equatorial Countercurrent. The route pass- wind.

221
ROUTES IN THE NORTH PA CIFIC

Another hazard, especially north of 40"N is dense the entrance to the strait. Traffic in the area is con-
fog. Extreme caution is necessary in the approach- trolled by Tofino Radio (VHF channels 16 and 74).
es to Juan de Fuca Strait because of heavy shipping Incoming vessels are requested to report when due
and strong currents. Shipping separation zones are south of Amphitrite Point. The station operates a
in operation, with the southern lane being used by regular roll call, every ship reporting their position,
arriving ships and the northern lane reserved for speed, and course. In bad visibility the station will
outgoing traffic. The lanes diverge at designated advise ships that are in the vicinity of a small boat's
points so as to allow ships to turn either north position. The station will also assi~t yachts with
towards Vancouver or south towards Seattle. To directions and may even track such vessels on
complicate matters, there is often a large number radar.
of fishing boa ts around the Swiftsure Bank, east of

PN33 Hawaii to California

Directions for this route are almost the same as for curves gradually northeast and then east for one's
PN32 as sailing a direct course from Hawaii to destination. The August turning point is the most
California is seldom possible due to the prevailing northerly in latitude 40"N, or even higher. Because
NE winds. The recommended sailing route from the recommended summer routes make destina-
Hawaii runs almost due north before turning east tions in the Pacific Northwest closer than those in
once the area of steady westerly winds has been California, boats from South California often take
reached. The turning point varies in latitude advantage of this by cruising some of that area
throughout the year, being as far north as 40"N in before heading for home.
summer and 32"N in winter. The recommended Boats sailing nonstop to San Francisco should
summer route turns quite sharply at the point make landfall at WP PN335 off Point Reyes, at the
where steady westerlies are met, whereas at other entrance into the traffic separation zone. In poor
times the route follows a curve that turns gradu- visibility one should contact the US Coastguard
ally NE and then E towards the port of destination. Vessel Traffic Service (CVTS) on VHF Channel 16
1f the passage is made at the end of winter, in to obtain information on shipping traffic.
February or March, the route should start turning As described in PN32, all these routes are great-
NE at about latitude 30"N (WP PN332) when the ly influenced by the position of the North Pacific
best course should be set for the port of destination. high, as they attempt to foliow the contour of this
'The NE turning point in May is somewhere area of high pressure. Boats with a good windward
around WP PN333, and in August WP PN334. performance can often take a more direct route than
From these hypothetical waypoints the route the recommended one, as can those whose skippers

220
 PN30 ROUTES FROM HAWAII

are prepared to make their easting with help from thing while under the influence of the NE trade
the engine. Some fast passages have been made in winds and sail east with the westerlies of high lat-
May by boats taking the great circle route and itudes. In between the two systems one may not
motorsailing to windward in light winds. At other have much choice except to use the engine. How-
times, boats heading for Southern California have ever, as the position of the North Pacific high has
tried to beat their way across by keeping south of such a bearing on all routes to the mainland, it is
the high, something that can be done especially if essential to obtain a Jong term forecast before leav-
one is able to keep track of the weather. Otherwise ing Hawaii so as to be able to plot the best course
it is better to follow the old practice of making nor- in relation to the existing weather conditions.

PN34 Hawaii to Central America and Mexico

Because of the prevailing northeasterly winds, es north of the Galapagos Islands with the winds
which blow throughout the year on the direct route becoming increasingly Sand SW so that the route
to continental America, directions for passages. to can gradually curve to NB and the Gulf of
ports in Northern Mexico are similar to those Panama, where landfall will be made at WP PN343
described in PN33. Reaching Mexico from Hawaii off Cabo Mala.
by such a roundabout route is so time consuming Boats bound for Costa Rica may be able to alter
that one should think seriously before committing course earlier for WP344 north of Cocos Island. The
oneself to such a passage. The alternative is only island belongs to Costa Rica and has a good anchor-
marginally more attractive, as it entails a similar. age in Chatham Bay (5°33'N, 87"02'W). The voyage
detour to the south. Ports in Central America, and can then be continued to mainland Costa Rica to
especially Panama, can be reached by such a south- WP345, at the entrance to Golfo Dulce a!'d the port
ern route, which is best sailed in late October or of Golfito.
November. Recommended waypoints are only list- Even in a month when the best conditions can be
ed for such a southern route. expected along these routes, such as November,
A good starting point from Hawaii is Hilo. From this will be a tough passage and should only be
WP PN341, outside Hilo, existing weather condi- undertaken in extremis after all other alternatives
tions should be used to best advantage to reach WP have been considered. It is also essential that the
PN342. An area of prevailing SE and 5 winds voyage is made in a boat that goes well to wind-
extends eastwards from this point and also the east- ward as much of the passage will be hard on the
setting Equatorial Countercurrent. The route pass- wind.

22.1
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC

PN35 Hawaii to Line Islands

The route running due south to these islands lying From WP PN351, off Honolulu, course is set for
close to the equator has the benefit of the NE trade WP PN352. Because winds will be NE as far as 5 'N,
winds throughout the year. These winds are par- and from there E and SE winds will prevail, some
ticularly strong and steady in winter, but tend to easting should be made in the early part of the voy-
get lighter as the islands are approached. The NE age so as to approach the islands from windward.
winds are usually lost somewhere between lati- If possible, one should attempt to start off from one
tudes 8 'N and 2 'N. The doldrums rarely exceed 2' of the most eastern ports in Hawaii, in which case
in width in these longitudes and the switch to the leaving from Honolulu is perhaps not such a good
SE trade winds of the South Pacific can be quite idea. If bound for Christmas Island, from WP
sudden, especially between May a11d August. PN352 the course should be altered for WP
South of latitude 8 'N the proportion of southerly PN353, NW of that island . The island's well pro-
winds is always higher. The area Is under the influ- tected natural harbour is entered through Cook
ence of all three equatorial currents, their direction, Island Passage (1 "SS'N, 157'29'W). Boats bound for
rate, and steadiness varying throughout the year. Fanning, also known as Teraina, should set course
Sometimes in winter a very strong west-setting cur- for WP PN354, so as to approach that island from
rent makes itself felt between Christmas and the north. However, it must be pointed out that
I Fanning islands, whereas in summer the counter- because of the prevailing SE winds, sailing from
I current can be just as strong in its easterly set. Fanning to Christmas Island may not be easy, so
I
Generally, the west-setting North Equatorial one may have to choose between one or the other.
Current will be experienced down to about 10'N. The Northern Line Islanqs belong to Kiribati, and
The east-setting North Equatorial Countercurrent there are official entry procedures only at
has been observed between latitudes S'N and S'N. Christmas and Fanning (Teraina) Island.
South of 3 'N to just below the equator, the current Otherwise, the comings and goings of cruising
is again setting west. The latter is the South boats appear to be tolerated without formalities.
Equatorial Current.

222
 PN30 ROUTES FROM HAWAII

PN36 Hawaii to Marshall Islands

This is a downwind run all the way pushed along WP PN362, to pass well to the south of it. The route
by the NE trades, which become more easterly in then continues north of Majuro Atoll to WP PN363.
the proximity of the islands. Winds are less constant The large lagoon is entered through Calalin Pass on
among the islands themselves and in summer the its western side (7 '1O'N, 171 ·1O'E). The two mile
weather can be squally although the direction of the wide pass is located between Eroj and Calalin
winds remains predominantly easterly. The unset- Island and has a shallow area in the centre which
tled summer weather is caused by the ITCZ mov- divides it into two channels. The Port Authority
ing north over the islands. should be contacted on VHF channel 16 as one
The North Equatorial Current and Equatorial approaches the atoll. Boats should proceed to Uliga
Countercurrent set strongly through the archipel- dock where formalities are completed. The only
ago producing a complex pattern. The set among ports of entry in the Marshalls are the capital
the northern islands is mostly west while in the Majuro and Ebeye, in Kwajalein Atoll. The latter
· southern islands it is east. Because of the complexity should not be approached until radio contact has
of the currents and also because the islands are all been established with Kwajalein Atoll Control as
low lying atolls, it is advisable to only sail among the area is used for missile testing by the US mili-
them in daylight and avoid night passages. tary. Boats arriving from overseas are strongly rec-
From WP PN361, off Honolulu, a direct route for ommended to make their first entry at Majuro.
Majuro passes close to the south of Johnston Atoll Cruising in all islands is only allowed with a spe-
(16 'SO'N, 169'"30'W). As navigation within 3 miles cial permit which can be obtained in Majuro.
of this atoll is prohibited, course should be set for

PN37 Hawaii to Japan

I . 223
I<;;,
ROUTES I N THE NORTH PACIFIC

Favourable winds prevail along most of this recommended for various times of the year start
route throughout the year, although the time of curving NW after meridian 160"E has been crossed.
arrival in Japan must take into account the It is at that point that a decision has to be made
typhoon season in that part of the world. A passage whether to pass to the east or west of Ogasawara
in winter, when there is little or no danger of Gunto, the chain of islands stretching south of
typhoons, is not recommended as the weather can Japan. The recommended route for boats bound for
be cold and stormy in Japan . A better time is late ports east of Tokyo stays east of these islands. For
spring towards the end of the NE monsoon and ports in the west of Japan, better conditions will be
before the start of the typhoon season. If planning found if the route passes to the west of the islands
tg cruise in Japan, the best time to leave Hawaii is in Ogasawara Gunto. An interesting and conve-
towards the end of March so as to arrive in Japan nient island in the latter group, in which an emer-
by late April or early May. Another alternative is gency stop can be made, is Chichishima (27"05'N,
to make the passage just before the onset of win- 142'11 'E). The main settlement Omura is in the well
ter, late October or November being a good time in sheltered Futami Ko Bay, which may become
which both winds and current are favourable. untenable in strong SW winds.
On leaving Hawaii the route runs due west along Leaving from Honolulu and WP PN371, depend-
the Tropic of Cancer if the passage is made between ing on the time of year, the route will pass either
April and September. Although conditions for a south or north of Johnston Atoll. The route will
westbound passage appear to be the best in sum- have to avoid a number of dangers west of that
mer, the risk of encountering a typhoon in the atoll before passing through WP PN372. From
Western Pacific makes summer passages far less there, the route turns NW towards WP PN373. It
attractive. Later in the year and during winter, the then carries on to WP PN374 from where it pass-
NE trades are steadier further south which makes. es between the islands of Hahashima and
it necessary to possibly go as far south as 16 'N to Chichishima to make landfall at WP PN375, in the
be sure of favourable winds. The recommended approaches to Osaka. Visiting yachts must clear in
route for November runs along latitude 18°N, at one of the official ports of'entry. One of the most
although better winds might be found even further conveniently located is Osaka, especially for
south. The North Equatorial Current sets west those planning to cruise the Inland Sea.
along this route throughou t the year. The routes

224
 PN40 PACIFIC ROUTES FROM S INGAPORE

ROUTES IN THE FAR EAST

Compared to other parts of the world, cruising The main drawback of the Far East remains,
routes in the Far East do not fall into a logical pat- however, the difficulty of getting there. In spite of
tern, because the area is off the beaten track and the the favourable NE trade winds that blow across the
weather is unpredictable. The western part of the North Pacific ensuring a fast and pleasant sail from
North Pacific is far from major cruising routes and the west coast of America, the number of North
Far Eastern countries can only by reached by a American yachts that embark on such a transpacific
lengthy detour. However, many more cruising voyage is very small. They are much more likely to
boats might venture to explore its remoteness be tempted by the lure of the South Seas and sail
were it not for the often appalling weather. to the South Pacific instead, although some venture
Virtually the entire area is subject to violent into the North West Pacific at a later stage, most
typhoons, which limit the safe sailing season to reaching the Far East via Papua New Guinea and
only a few months per year. As most distances Micronesia. Another route sailed by cruising
involved are very long, it usually means that one boats to reach the Far East through the Philippines
must be prepared to remain there between seasons and Hong Kong is the route originating in
and spend the typhoon season in or near a safe Singapore. The reports of piracy in the South China
anchorage, of which fortunately there are many. Sea in the 1980s had dissuaded many sailors from
Although tropical storms have been recorded in using that route. The situation has greatly
every month of the year, May to December is improved as a result of the gradual liberalisation
regarded as the typhoon season. of Vietnam and the region surrounding it may soon
The three main cruising areas are the Philippines, become an attractive cruising destination. For the
Japan, and Micronesia. The attraction of the time being, the best solution for boats starting off
Philippines is the generally.pleasant climate and from Singapore is to follow the north coast of
the great number of islands, inlets, and bays to Borneo, where stops can be made in the small states
explore. Although typhoons strike the archipelago of Sarawak, Brunei, or Sabah. The other alternative
with regularity, there are many good anchorages is to arrive in the Far East via Papua New Guinea
where shelter can be sought. The Inland Sea of at the end of a cruise in the South Pacific. Yet anoth-
Japan and the great number of small fishing har- er possibility is to sail nonstop to Japan from the
bours make Japan an attractive cruising destina- west coast of North America or Hawaii and either
tion, although the safe sailing season is very short. continue the voyage towards Singapore and the
The scattered islands of Micronesia are much clos- Indian Ocean, or sail south through Papua New
er in character to the islands of the South Pacific Guinea to Australia, across to New Zealand and
and are in fact convenient stepping stones between along the southern route to Tahiti.
the South Pacific and the Far East.

PN40 P ACIFIC RO UTES FROM SINGAPORE

PN41 Singapore to the Gulf of Siam 226
PN42 Singapore to Vietnam 227
PN43 Singapore to Hong Kong 227
PN44 Singapore to the Philippines 229
PN45 Singapore to North Borneo 230
The majority of cruising boats arrive in Singapore the annual King's Cup Regatta in Phuket or the
either from the south, through Indonesia, or the Hong Kong to Manila Race. The gradual opening
NW through the Malacca Strait, and most leave by of Vietnam to foreign tourism will undoubtedly
the same routes. Very few venture eastward from attract more cruising boats to that area. An equal-
Singapore, although there is an increasing traffic of ly interesting cruising area is the north coast
locally owned yachts, some of which commute of Borneo. The Philippines are another area
between the various regional yacht races, such as waiting to be visited by more cruising boats. The

225
 II
RO UTES JN THE NORTH P ACIFIC

/
compulsory cruising permit for Indonesia dis- already underway and a few Indonesian islands
courages short cruises between Singapore and its close to Singapore can now be visited without a
southern neighbour, but an easing of restrictions is cruising permit.
I
I
I
I
I
./
!/

!I
11

lI
1,

:I
~!
~I PN40 Pacific routes from Singapore

PN41 Singapore to the Gulf of Siam

!I
I
I
.[11i
I
Iii 226
 PN40 PACIFIC RO UTES FROM SINGAPOR E

The best time to sail this route, which runs paral- From there the course can be altered for WP PN414,
lel to the east coast of continental Malaysia, is dur- near Ko Phai light and Bangkok Pilot Station, in the
ing the SW monsoon. On leaving the Strait of approaches to Bangkok (Krung Thep) at the
Singapore through the North Channel, from WP entrance to the buoyed channel leading across
PN411 a course is set for WP PN412. The route Bangkok Bar. The busy port ofBangkokhas spread
passes west of Pulau Pemanggil, one of the small- on both shores of the Chao Phraya river and can
er Tioman Islands, an attractive archipelago hardly be recommended as a cruising destination
belonging to Malaysia, where a stop should be con- in itself. Visiting boats should head for Pattaya,
sidered. From WP PN412, the route runs due north where the Royal Varona Yacht Club is based, and
parallel to the Malaysian coast to WP PN413, close complete entry formalities with the help of the
to the point where the route enters Thai waters. Yacht Club.

PN42 Singapore to Vietnam

·I

Similar directions apply as for route PN41 as far as Gan river. The Vietnamese capital is about 40 miles
the Tioman Islands, if a stop there is intended. The from the sea and access to it is by one of two
best time to sail to Vietnam is the same as for the dredged channels. Anchorage in the river is pro-
Gulf of Siam as sailing anywhere in this area should hibited except well away from the city. At the time
be timed to take full advantage of the two mon- of writing, Vietnam was still out of bounds for
soons: NE monsoon in winter (December to April) cruising yachts but there were already signs that
and SW monsoon in summer (May to October). there would be an easing of restrictions ·in the not
Boats intending to sail direct to Vietnam, on leav- too distant future. It is therefore advisable to check
ing the Strait of Singapore through the North out the situation before leaving Singapore because
Channel, from WP PN421 course is set for WP even if one is not allowed to cruise in Vietnam, it
PN422, W of Con Son Island, in the approaches to may be possible to obtain permission to stop in one
the channel leading through the shallow waters of of the ports on the east coast, which could be a great
the Mekong Delta. Ho Chi Minh City, the former help for boats on passage to or from fiong Kong.
Saigon, stands on the west bank of the Song Sai

PN43 Singapore to Hong Kong

227
ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC

Direct passages through the South China Sea must to the west of Mangkai Island to WP PN431, 30
avoid a large area of reefs and associated dangers miles east of the Chadwick Islands, off Vietnam' s
north of Borneo. In the past the recommended route SE coast. The route continues in a northerly direc-
passed between the north coast of Borneo and this tion parallel to the Vietnamese coast to WP
reef area and re-entered the South China Sea PN432, 15 miles west of North Reef, the western-
through the Palawan Passage. As described in most reef in the Paracel Islands. From there a course
route PN42, the recent changes in Vietnam have can be set for WP PN433, in the SW approaches to
made it possible to sail close to the shores of that Hong Kong.
country and this has considerably shortened the Route PN43B leaves the Strait of Singapore
distance to Hong Kong for those who prefer to sail through the Middle Channel. From WP PN434 the
this shorter route (PN43A). Those who intend to route runs between South Na tuna and Subi Kechi!
stop in North Borneo or the Philippines will con- islands to WP PN435. From there, a course is set for
tinue to use the traditional route through Palawan WP PN436, south of Luconia Shoals. From WP
Passage (PN43B). PN436 a straight course can be steered for WP
The most favourable winds on either of these PN437, 12 miles S of Melville Island at the
routes will be found at the start of the SW monsoon entrance into Balabac Strait. From there the route
and although more consistent winds can be to Hong Kong continues through Palawan Passage.
expected in July and August, the increased likeli- The narrowest part of this passage is 28 miles wide,
hood of typhoons in the area around Hong Kong where it is bound on the west by Captain Royal
makes passages in late summer too risky. Winter Shoal and on the east by Balabac Island. As the cur-
passages are not threatened by typhoons but are rents set strongly eastward through the Balabac
very difficult to accomplish as this is the time of the Strait, Balabac Island should not be approached in
NE monsoon when strong NE winds and an equal- bad weather. In the area between Borneo and
ly strong south flowing current occur north of Palawan, the currents often behave erratically and
Borneo. A winter passage is best undertaken in many vessels have come to grief on either side of
short stages with stops along the north coast of Pala wan passage when going through in poor vis-
Borneo, as described in routes PN44 and PN45. ibility. From WP PN438, at the northern entrance
Boats sailing route PN43A to Hong Kong into Pala wan Passage, a direct course, which pass-
should leave the Strait of Singapore through the es east of Macclesfield Bank, can be set for WP
North Channel. From WP PN430 the route passes PN439, in the SE approaches to Hong Kong.

228
 PN40 PACIFIC ROUTES FROM SINGAPORE

Visiting yachts are welcome at the Royal Hong and proceed to the western quarantine anchorage.
Kong Club, located in Victoria Harbour, on the N Because .of the heavy amount of shipping, it is
side of Hong Kong Island. Arriving yachts should essential to time one's arrival for daylight hours.
contact Port Operation Service on VHF channel 12

PN44 Singapore to the Philippines

Few boats attempt to make this passage without There are two variants which can be sailed on
stopping as there are a number of convenient ports this route. Having left the Strait of Singapore
on the north coast of Borneo. A passage during the through the Middle Channel, from WP PN441, the
SW monsoon offers the best chance of favourable more northern route (PN44A) runs between South
winds, but such a summer passage also carries the Natuna and Subi Kechi! islands to WP PN442. From
risk of typhoons as one approaches the Philippines. there, a course is set for WP PN443, south of
Typhoons, however, are less frequent in the south- Luconia Shoals.
ern half of that archipelago so one should plan on The alternative route (PN44B), also leaving the
restricting one's cruising to that area during the Strait of Singapore at WP PN441, goes first to WP
critical period. There would be less risks from PN444 by passing south of a group of small islands,
typhoons if the passage is made during the NE the closest of which is Pulau Kajuara. From WP
monsoon, but then the winds will be mostly con- PN444, the course turns NE and goes through Api
trary. As the route runs along the coast of Borneo, Passage, NW of Borneo, to join the other route at
the voyage can be interrupted in any one of the WP PN443, south of Luconia Shoals. In all these
three states bordering on the South China Sea and passes att~ntion must be paid to the currents, which
there are several ports in Sarawak, Brunei and can be very strong at times. Another hazard along
Sabah where yachts can find good shelter. the north coast of Borneo are the various oil plat-

229
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC

forms, most of which are lit. alter course at WP PN443, off Luconia Shoals, for
From WP PN443 boats bound for the Southern WP PN446, west of Saracen Bank. From there a
Philippines can set a straight course for WP PN445, direct course can "be set which leads through the
12 miles S of Melville Island at the entrance into Palawan Passage to WP PN447. From there, the
Balabac Strait. From Balabac Strait the route same course is maintained to WP PN448, off Luzon
enters the Sulu Sea, where conditions can be quite Point in the approaches to Manila.
rough during the NE monsoon. This is one of the The alternative to the above routes is to break up
reasons why the inside route through the Sulu Sea the passage into shorter stages by'calling at ports
is not necessarily the best if bound for Luzon and in the Na tuna Islands, Sarawak and Brunei. A con-
Manila. Ports in the Northern Philippines are bet- venient stop on the NE corner of Borneo is Kota
1 I ter reached through the Palawan Passage, as des- Kinabalu, the capital of Sabah, one of the states
cribed below. belonging to the Federation of Malaysia. Details of
I Boats bound for ports in the Northern Philippines these stops are described in route PN45.
I and intending to use the Palawan Passage, should
,I
I PN45 Singapore to North Borneo
I/

Most boats bound for the Philippines and beyond !ems to deep drafted boats.
take advantage of the conveniently placed ports on The next country on Borneo's north coast is
the north coast of Borneo to break the voyage in one Brunei. The main port of this oil rich state is Muara,
of the states belonging to the Federation of at the mouth of the river on which is also the cap-
Malaysia. From the Strait of Singapore and WP ital of Brunei, Bandar Seri Bagawan. Further east,
PN451, the route leads to WP PN452, close to the on the NE corner of Borneo, is the state of Sa bah,
Api Passage, passing south of a group of small whose capital is Kota Kinabalu.
islands, the closest of which is Pulau Kajuara. A The area is rarely affected by typhoons and the
first stop can be made in Na tuna Besar, a group of effect of the monsoons is also less noticeable than
islands belonging to Indonesia. The main port is further north. Especially during the early part of
Genting, on Sedanau Island (3 "45'N, 108 'OO'E). As the SW monsoon, winds are often light, there are
there is a dispute over the islands between Indo- frequent calms and, if sailing close to the coast, land
nesia and Malaysia, only emergency stops are and sea breezes are more reliable than seasonal
allowed. From Api Passage the route follows close- winds. A good reserve of fuel should be carried as
ly the coast of Sarawak, one of the states in the much of the distance may have to be covered under
Malaysian Federation. Its capital Kutching is 22 power. The SW monsoon becomes stronger
miles up the river Sarawak. There are sand bars towards the end of summer.
across the river entrance, but they only cause prob-

?::10
 PNSO ROUTES FROM THE PHILIPPIN ES

PN50 ROUTES FROM THE PHILIPPINES

PNSl Philippines to Singapore 232
PN52 Philippines to Hong Kong 233
PN53 Philippines to Japan 233
PN54 Philippines to Guam 235
PNSS Philippines to Palau 235
Rumours of piracy in the notorious Sulu Sea, dif- ago and with so many islands over such a large area
ficulties with the officials, and the threat of it is obvious that local weather conditions will vary
typhoons have all combined to keep most cruising considerably. The prevailing winds blowing over
boats away from this beautiful and interesting the islands are influenced mainly by the monsoons
country. As in other parts of the world, some of of the China Sea, the Philippines forming a border
these points may have been exaggerated and between this sea and the Pacific Ocean. The NE
reports from cruising boats which have visited the monsoon blows from mid-October until mid-May
Philippines recently paint a brighter picture. and this is regarded as the fine season, with dry and
Over 7,000 islands make up this large archipel- clear weather.

20°N
\ I;
ii
I

" GUAM
I

o•

PNSO Routes from the Philippines

231
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC

The SW monsoon only becomes well established period during which typhoons strike these waters.
from July and lasts until October. During the lat- These storms usually originate to the SE of the
ter part of this period the weather becomes islands and move across them into the China Sea,
squally with violent gales, which can last for sev- some reaching the China coast, while others
eral days. These gales usually begin from the Nor curve up towards Japan. The Philippines have one
NW and back to SW or S, blowing strongly with of the highest incidence of typhoons and although
heavy ralli. September to November are the worst the main season is from June to October they can
months for this kind of weather. This is also the occur at any time between May and' December.

PNSl Philippines to Singapore

8ESTIJ1ME:
TR,OPICAL S'IORMS:
CHAR'l'S:

Because of the low incidence of tropical storms in PN512 a course is set for WP PN513 before alter-
the areas traversed by this route, southbound pas- ing course for WP PN514 to negotiate the Strait of
sages can be made at any time of the year, although Singapore through the Middle Channel.
more favourable sailing conditions occur during The more southern route (PN51B) splits from WP
the months in which the NE monsoon is well estab- PN512 in a SW direction and passes through Api
lished. During summer and the SW monsoon, ty- Passage to WP PN515. From there a course is set for
phoons occasionally pass through the Philippines WP PN514 and the Strait of Singapore passing
and therefore offshore passages are best avoided, south of a group of small islands, the closest of
particularly during the peak months of August and which is Pulau Kajuara. Boats arriving in Singapore
September. As these are also the months when the from the east may find it easier to go to the anchor-
SW monsoon is blowing at its strongest, passages age off the Changi Yacht Club, NE of Singapore
should indeed be left for another time. Island, and complete entry formalities from there.
After leaving the Sulu Sea through Balabac Strait, The alternative is the new Raffles Marina
from WP PN511, 12 miles south of Melville Island, (1 '20.53'N, 103 '38.22'E), on the west coast of
the route runs parallel to the north coast of Borneo Singapore Island.
to WP PN512, south of Luconia Shoals. From there, Few boats sail this route without stopping in one
Singapore can be reached either through Api of the three small states in North Borneo, all of
Passage, close to the NW extremity of Borneo, or which have excellent harbours, Kota Kinabalu
by an offsliore route that goes through the pass sep- (5'59'N, 116 '03'E) in Sabah, Muara in Brunei
arating Subi Kechi! Island and the Natuna Islands. (5'02'N, 115 '04'E), and Kuching in Sarawak (1 '34'N,
To take the offshore route (PN51A), from WP 110'21 'E). A stop in any of these ports is particularly

' 232
 PN50 ROUTES FROM THE PHILIPPINES

welcome during the SW monsoon when contrary tedious. All those ports are described in more detail
winds and currents make this passage slow and in route PN45 (page 230).

PN52 Philippines to Hong Kong

This passage is usually made either direct from Pratas Reef from the S or SE should check their
Manila Bay or from one of the ports further north position frequently, as many vessels have been lost
along the west coast of Luzon. Whichever point of on this reef due to a doubtful position.
departure is chosen, the passage presents no prob- The busy port of Manila attracts fewer cruising
lems during the NE monso6n, when favourable boats than in the past. Boats leaving from there take
conditions can be expected for the entire passage, their leave at WP PN521, off Luzon Point. A direct
although the winds can be quite strong. The best course can be set from there for Hong Kong and
time to do this passage is from mid-December to WP PN523. A more popular port, and a better point
mid-March. During the remainder of the year, par- of departure from the Philippines, is San Fernando,
ticular attention must be paid to tropical depres- north of Manila. To leave from there, a direct course
sions forming in the South China Sea or even for Hong Kong can be set from WP PN522 for WP
further afield,. as these can develop into fully PN523, in the approaches to Hong Kong. Visiting
fledged typhoons before a safe harbour can be yachts are welcome at the Royal Hong Kong Yacht
reached. Club, located in Victoria Harbour, on the N side of
Pratas Reef should be given a wide berth, and Hong Kong Island. Arriving yachts should contact
unless the weather is clear and settled it should not Port Operation Service on VHF channel 12 and pro-
be passed too close on its windward side. During ceed to the western quarantine anahorage. Because
the NE monsoon, when strong winds and overcast of the heavy amount of shipping, it is-essential to
skies can last for several days, vessels approaching time one's arrival for daylight hours.

PN53 Philippines to Japan

233
 ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC

I
I
I Route PN53B
I PN535 Bernardino 1451

I 12'40'N, 124'20'E

I The best time to make this passage is in May, at the

835

high concentration of fishing boats. Having passed

I beginning of the SW monsoon, when the danger of

being overtaken by an early typhoon is minimal.
through Taiwan Strait, the route runs parallel to the
mainland coast across the East China Sea and

I The winds are generally favourable for most of the

passage, although calms can be expected when
makes landfall at WP PN534.
At the change of seasons, or perhaps right at the

I approaching the Japanese coast. The offshore route

follows the Kura Shio current, which sets NE at a
beginning of the SW monsoon, a direct offshore
passage (PN53B) can be feasible. fn such a case, the
most convenient place to leave the Philippines is
considerable rate especially during the SW mon-

II soon. Occasionally the weather can be quite

rough as one passes from one wind system to the
next and attention should be paid to the movement
of frontal systems. An equally alert watch must be
through the Bernardino Strait. From WP PN535 the
offshore route leads to WP PNS36 off Mura to Saki
in the approaches to Osaka. The latter is a conve-
nient port of entry and also a good starting point

I kept for the large amount of shipping in thjs area,

both commercial and fishing.
Depending on the port of destination, the route
for those wishing to enter the Inland Sea (Seto
Naikai) from the east.
If one cannot avoid sailing to Japan during the
11 can stay either east or west of Nansei Shoto NE monsoon of winter, very strong NW winds can
(Ryukyu), the chain of islands which stretch be expected for the best part of the passage. The
I· between Japan and Taiwan.. The western route main advantage of a passage during that season is
(PN53A) enters the East China Sea through Taiwan the absence of typhoons. Early in the year, in

I Strait and then heads for the SW coast of Kyushu,

where a convenient port of entry into Japan is
February or March, an alternative to beating into
the wind by sailing the offshore route nonstop, is

I Nagasaki. From San Fernando and WP PN531, the

initial route goes almost due north towards
Taiwan Strait and WP PNS32. The route crosses the
to head for Okinawa and start cruising among the
Japanese islands from there. Starting from the SW
extremity of the Japanese archipelago, it is then eas-

I shallow Taiwan Bank, where rough seas may be

encountered in strong winds and which also has a
ier to move NE along the chain of islands. The port
of entry on Okinawa is Na ha.

~
I

234
 PNSO ROUTES FROM THE P HILIPPINES

PN54 Philippines to Guam

The steadiness of the NE trade winds and the west- Harbour Control should be contacted on arrival on
setting current during winter, when the risk of VHF channels 12, 13, or 16. Cruising boats are nor-
typhoons is lowest, precludes the possibility of mally directed to the commercial pier for clearance.
making this passage during the safe season. The If this passage is considered during the NE mon-
only time when a reasonable proportion of fair soon (PN54B), a better slant should be achieved by
winds can be expected is during the SW monsoon sailing around the north of Luzon passing through
(PN54A). At this time the proportion of easterly the Babuyan Islands. From WP PN544 a direct
winds is indeed much lower, but the risk of course can be set for Guam and WP PJ\1543.
typhoons is very high. Leaving from San Because of the difficulty of making easting at
Bernardino Strait at WP PN541 the route goes almost any time along this route, and also the risk
almost due east to WP PN542. From there course of typhoons during most months, an alternative is
is altered to make landfall at WP PN543, off Guam, to make a detour via Palau (7"20'N, 134 "27'E) and
where formalities are completed in Apra Harbour. Yap (9'30'N, 138°08'E) as described in route PN55.

PNSS Philippines to Palau

235
 Most boa ts normally sail this route as part of a lagoon, on the west side of Babeltuap Island, before
longer trip to the South Pacific. The best time for entering Malakai Harbour. This is the official port
making this passage is during the winter months of entry into Palau. Yachts must not stop anywhere
when there is little danger of being caught out by before Malakai and the Port Authority must be
a typhoon. The first part of tl1e passage is under the informed in advance of a yacht's ETA. Yachts arriv-
influence of the NE monsoon, which from ing without a permit, which must be obtained in
December to March can blow quite strongly, advance, may only be allowed to stay for a maxi-
although the NE winds gradually become lighter mum three days.
in the vicinity of Palau. The North Equatorial If the passage is made outside the NE monsoon,
Current has a strong westerly set in this region and the argument in favour of a better sailing angle is
this should be taken into account. less important and the Philippines may be left from
Because of the high proportion of NE and E further south. During the transition period, or at
winds in the latitude of San Bernardino Strait, an the very start of the SW monsoon, it is then possi-
I attempt should be made to leave the Philippines as ble to leave the Philippines through the Surigao
far north as possible to benefit from a better angle Strait (PNSSB), east of Leyte Island, and set a direct
I across the prevailing winds. During the NE mon-
soon, a better sailing angle can be achieved by sail-
course for Palau from WP PN553. This is a short-
er route than the one described previo~sly, but as
ing around the north of Luzon (PN55A) to WP it cannot be sailed during the relatively safe win-
) PN551 and setting course from there for WP PN552, ter months, the risk of being caught by a tropical
off Palau. Boats arriving from the west use Toagel storm must be weighed up against it.
Mlungui Pass (7"32'N, 134 "29'E) to reach Komebail
1·
PN60 ROUTES FROM HONG KONG
PN61 Hong Kong to Singapore 237
PN62 Hong Kong to Philippines 239
PN63 Hong Kong to Japan 239
PN64 Hong Kong to Guam 241
PN65 Taiwan to Guam · 241
In spite of a large and active local sailing commu- only stop at a number of designated ports.
nity, Hong Kong is visited by few cruising boats. On the edge of the tropics, Hong Kong has a sea-
This is probably explained by Hong Kong's remote- sonal climate with well marked seasons. The win-
ness from the most popular cruising routes, but also ter from November to April is the time of the NE
because of the relative shortness of the safe sailing monsoon, with cooler temperatures and a lower
season. Although sailing in the immediate vicinity humidity. The summer, from May to October, is hot
of Hong Kong is safe throughout the year because and steamy with plenty of rain. This is the time of
of the proximity of several typhoon shelters, there the SW monsoon. During this period bad depres-
are hardly any cruising areas in the vicinity to tempt sions from the SE and SSE affect Hong Kong and
foreign sailors. The situation may change after Hong these can build up into typhoons. These storms usu-
Kong reverts to China in 1997 by which time it is ally start in the Pacific east of the Philippines and
hoped that more of China will be accessible to vis- then move NW. Typhoons are most frequent
iting boats. For the time being cruising in mainland between May and October, but they can occur at the
China is severely limited and foreign yachts may beginning of the NE season as well.

236
 20°N

" GUAM

o•

PN60 Routes from Hong Kong

PN61 Hong Kong to Singapore

237
 ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PAC IFIC

as the winds become more easterly south of 20'5. this area, if SW winds are encountered on leaving
Favourable winds will be found along most of the the Galapagos, it would be better to stay on the
way and even the doldrums should not be too wide starboard tack and keep east of meridian 90'W,
at the recommended time of year. even if it means temporarily diverting from the
.? Boats leaving from Puerto Ayora, on Santa Cruz direct route. Depending on weather conditions, a
Island, from WP PS121 , east of Punta Estrada, course can then be set to make landfall at Easter
should sail a course due south which passes east Island at WP PS123 north of the island's North
of Floreana Island. On this course, depending on Cape. The NW coast should be· followed to the
existing weather conditions, the equator will be main settlement of Hanga Roa. The small port at
crossed at WP PS122. As mentioned earlier, an area nearby Hanga Piko, south of Hanga Roa, has been
to be avoided if passing south of the Galapagos is improved recently allowing a few keeled boats to
between longitudes 90"W and 95-W and latitudes find shelter. The Port Captain should be contacted
3'5 and S'S where several yach ts have reported on VHF channel 16 on arrival and he will meet the
unpleasant weather conditions. The area appears boat outside the port. Because of the rapidly chang-
to be an extension of the doldrums with little or no ing weather, boats at anchor should never be left
wind, thundery squalls, and a heavy swell which unattended at Easter Island.
makes conditions very uncomfortable. To avoid

PS13 Galapagos to Gambier Islands

This route eschews the well sailed route to the (Academy Bay), from WP PS131 , east of Punta
Marquesas and allows one to reach French Estrada, should set an initial course for WP PS132
Polynesia from the SE rather than the NE. and thence to WP PS133. From there, a great circle
Instructions are similar to those for the route from course can be set for WP PS134, SE of Mangareva
Galapagos to Easter Island, with the added advan- lagoon. Because of the reefs extending to windward
tage that as the Gambier Islands lie so much fur- on the east side of the large lagoon, Mangareva
ther to the west, the SE trades provide an even should not be approached from the east, but from
better slant for this route which crosses one of the the SE. From WP PS134 the course goes west rough-
most deserted areas of the world. A great circle ly parallel ~o the line of reefs and enters the lagoon
course can be set as soon as steady SE trade winds through Southwest Pass. Entry formalities in the
are found. During the southern winter (May to Gambier can be completed at Rikitea, the settle-
September), they often reach as far north as the ment on Mangareva, the main island of the group.
Galapagos themselves. A tempting stop on the way and close to. the rec-
In order to avoid an area of confused seas and lit- ommended route is the island of Pitcairn (25 '04'S,
tle., wind south of the Galapagos Islands, lying 130'06'W), whose isolated community is always
between longitudes 90 "W and 95"W and latitudes happy to welcome passing yachts.
3 'S and 8 'S, boats leaving from Puerto Ayora
 P510 RO UTES IN THE EASTERN SOUTH PACIFIC

PS14 South America to Easter Island

Whichever point of departure is chosen, a passage of Valparaiso has been crossed. The same should
to Easter Island from any port on the west coast of be done if intending to call first at Juan Fernand.ez
South America should present no great problem as Islands (Robinson Crusoe, Alexander Selkirk,
favourable winds can be expected for most of the and Santa Clara). They are dependencies of Chile
way. From ports lying to the north of Callao, a and the main settlement is on Robinson Crusoe in
direct course can be steered immediately on leav- Cumberland Bay.
ing the mainland as favourable winds are preva- Taking as a point of departure the Peruvian port
lent in this area during most of the year. Although, of Callao, from WP PS141, north of San Lorenzo
according to the pilot charts, Easter Island lies Island in Callao Bay, a great circle course is set for
slightly outside the SE trade wind belt, the winds WP PS142, off Cape Roggeven, on the SE side of
between the island and the continent tend to blow Easter Island. The island's south and SW coast is
between E and S most of the time. A direct course followed around to the main settlement at Hanga
can also be sailed from ports lying further south, Roa, where officials. are based and should be con-
but if westerly winds are encountered, a NW course tacted on VHF channel 16. There is now a small
should be sailed until the SE trade winds are found. port at Hanga Piko, south of Hanga Roa, with room
Those sailing along the. coast of Chile with a for a few keeled boats, but the harbour cannot be
favourable wind and current (route PS14B) should entered or left during periods of heavy surge.
not set a course for Easter Island before the latitude

PS15 Easter Island to Pitcairn

289
 ·· .~
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC

Fair winds can be expected along this route during can be set for WP PS152, so as to a~proach Pitcairn
the best part of the year. The most settled weath- from the east. The nearest anchorage to the settle-
er is in summer, from December to May, when the ment of Adamstown is in Bounty Bay, off Pitcairn's
SE trade winds extend furthest south. However, NE coast. The small community monitors VHF
even during these months the trade wind pattern channel 16 and a boat will be sent out to meet arriv-
can be interrupted by spells of squally weather, ing yachts. The main anchorage is at Bounty Bay,
rain, and variable winds. A direct course from but it is only tenable in very settled weather.
Easter to Pitcairn Island leads well to the south of Sometimes it may be possible to anchor at Tedside,
Dude and Henderson islands, both of which are on the west side of the island. All anchorages
uninhabited. As they are nature reserves, landing should be treated with suspicion as several boats
is prohibited. have been lost on Pitcairn as the weather changed
From WP PS151, off Hanga Roa, a direct route unexpectedly while the crew were ashore.

PS16 Pitcairn to Gambier Islands

Thls passage can be made at all times of the year From WP PS161, NW of Pitcairn a direct course·
as both Pitcairn and the Gambier group are very can be set for WP PS162, SE of Mangareva lagoon.
rarely threatened by cyclones. However, the first Because of the reefs extending to windward of the
months of the year should be avoided so as not to large lagoon, Mangareva should be approached
arrive in French Polynesia during the cyclone sea- with caution. From WP PS162 the course follows
son there. Best sailing conditions ca.n be expected roughly the line of the reefs and enters the lagoon
either at the beginning or the end of the southern through Southwest Pass. In poor visibility it may
winter. As this route skirts the southern extremi- be advisable to use the Western Pass, between the
ty of the SE trades, weather conditions can be vari- islands of Taravai and Mangareva, as it has the best
able during winter months and westerly gales are markings and is normally used by the supply ship
not uncommon. The Gambier Islands should be from Tahiti. Entry formalities in the Gambier
approached with caution in thick weather as they Islands are completed at Rikitea, the main settle-
can be hidden by low cloud and currents in their ment on Mangareva, the largest island of the group.
vicinity can be strong at times.

290
··'·

PS10 ROUTES IN THE EASTER N SOUTH PACIFIC

PS17 Easter Island to Magellan Strait or Cape Horn

Although the number of boats that make Easter . PS173 as soon as the area of prevailing westerly
Island the starting point for a voyage to the stormy winds has been reached. Landfall will be made at
Southern Ocean is relatively small, the same route PS173 off Cape Pillar. Entering the Strait in heavy
is used for much of its length by boats heading for weather should be avoided, because strong cur-
the south of Chile. Just as Cape Horn or the Straits rents create rough seas at the entrance to the Strait.
of Magellan are best reached from Easter Island Those wishing to visit the south of Chile and
with the help of the prevailing westerly winds of explore the Chilean channels on their way to the
higher latitudes, so is the south of Chile. The main Magellan Strait, should make landfall further north
objective after leaving Easter Island is to reach the in the approaches to Chacao Channel (route
region of prevailing westerly winds as quickly as PS17B). The same suggestion applies as above and
possible. By taking advantage of every shift of wind the.latter channel should only be entered in settled
it ought to be possible to make some easting even weather and with a fair tide. To obtain this infor-
before the Roaring Forties are reached, from mation, the Corona Lighthouse should be contacted
where fair, if strong, winds can be expected. The on VHF channel 16 to request information on the
proportion of gale force winds is highest in the state of the tide.
vicinity of the southern tip of the American conti- Boats bound for Cape Horn (route PS17C) will
nent, the worst period being the winter months of make most of their easting with ti\e prevailing
June, July, and August and passages during these westerly winds, so that latitude SO'S is only crossed
months should be avoided. The recommended time in about longitude 95W (WP PS175). The course
not only has the benefit of better winds en route, is then altered for PS176 to pass close to the south
• but also ensures arriving in Tierra de! Fuego and of Cape Horn. In recent years, most boats sailing
Patagonia at the best time, which is at the height this route have stopped in Tierra de! Fuego, either
of the southern summer. by entering Beagle Channel immediately after hav-
Taking WP PS171 as a departure point from ing weathered Cape Horn, or by reaching Cape
Easter Island, the initial course will head in a SSE Horn itself through the relatively more sheltered
direction. As so much depends on weather condi- channels to NW of it by choosing one of the land-
tions encountered at the time, WP PS172 has been falls described above.
given only as a guideline. Boats bound for the After rounding Cape Horn, the route can pass
Magellan Strait (route PSI 7A) should set course for either east or west of Staten Island. If the island is

291
 '!
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFI C

pass~d to seaward, a wide berth should be given the west of the Falkland Islands. Going nohh
t
to Cape St John, as a dangerous tide rip extends off- through Le Maire Strait it is essential to wait fdr a
shore for about six miles making conditions haz- fair tide and, if at all possible, a fair wind as w¢11.
ardous when the wind blows against the tide.· Further directions for boats heading north into tpe
Alternatively, the route can pass through Le Atlantic Ocean are given in routes AT26, AT27 ai;td
Maire Strait, especially if the intention is to pass to . AS26 (pages 177, 178 and 193). '

PS20 ROUTES IN EASTE.RN POLYNESIA

PS21 Gambier to Marquesas 293
PS22 Marquesas to Tuamotus 294
PS23 Marquesas to Tahiti 295
PS24 Marquesas to Northern Cooks 296
PS25 Tahiti to Austral Islands 296
PS26 Tahiti to Cape Horn or Magellan Strait 297
Whether arriving from the north (Hawaii), north- this risk and stay in French Polynesia between;
east (California or Panama), east (Galapagos), December and March, one should try to be near one'
southeast (Easter or Pitcairn Island), or southwest of the recommended ports. It must be pointed out;!
(New Zealand), one should plan to arrive in French however, that in recent years the authorities in\
Polynesia not earlier than the beginning of April, Papeete have occasionally forbidden crews to ;
when the cyclone season is on the wane and the SE remain on board their boats during the cyclone sea- !·
trade wind season is about to begin. Such a timing son, although the boats themselves may be left 1
will ensure several months of carefree cruising unattended in a safe place, such as the marina at l
before the onset of the next cyclone season. Those Raia tea.
with only a limited amount of time can spend about Even without the danger of cyclones, summers
two months in French Polynesia, provided they ought to be avoided as the weather i~ much less !
arrive there in June. If one leaves the Society Islands pleasant than in winter, when from May to i
only after the 14th July celebrations, which is an October the SE trade winds are normally in full '.·
occasion few wish to miss, the safe cruising season force in these latitudes, although occasionally they !
in the rest of the tropics is well advanced and one can be interrupted by 's qualls and short period.s of i
has to be prepared to push on and probably spend light winds and calms. During the summer ·
the coming cyclone season in New Zealand, or months, from December to March, winds are less 1
some other safe place outside the tropics. The other predictable and the weather can be hot and.sultry.
alternative is to remain in the tropics during the The Tuamotus should be avoided during the
summer, by staying close to one of the relatively cyclone season as no anchorage can be regarded as
safe harbours downwind from Tahiti, such as Pago really safe. Because of the revolving nature of these
Pago (American Samoa), Vava'u (Tonga), or Suva . storms, even a relatively protected anchorage can
(Fiji). For those who decide to stay in the Society quickly turn into a lee shore and the long fetch in
Islands, there are several harbours, both in the most lagoons can create highly dangerous condi-
Windward and the Leeward Islands, that are reput- tions for boats at anchor.
. ed to be safe in a cy~lone, although the authorities Satellite navigation has undoubtedly played a
are increasingly reluctant to allow cruising boats major part in opening the more remote islands, and
to remain there during the cyclone season. Indeed, especially the Tuamotus, to cruising boats, many
many sailors plan to spend the cyclone season of whose owners would not have dared pass
there, not heeding the lessons of 1983, when several through those waters without GPS. Although most
cyclones swept through French Polynesia. It is true of these dangers are now easier to avoid, it must be
that several years can go by without a cyclone hit- remembered that most charts of the area were '
ting these islands, but when a cyclone comes this drawn during the last cen~ry and many are quite
inaccurate. Therefore positions obtained by GPS
way it can wreak havoc. If one is prepared to take
f
292 l
 PS20 ROUTES IN EASTERN POLYNESIA

.,,.
PS24 Nuku HIV'!, MARQUESAS 120"W 100'W

PEiRHYN
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PS20 Routes in Eastern Polynesia

will rarely agree completely with those taken off conditions in strong winds. Finally, being so
from a chart. This calls for extreme caution when neavily dependent on satellite navigation when
; in the vicinity of reefs or when sailing at night or navigating in the South Pacific, and particularly in
in bad visibility. Nor should the strong currents that such a difficult area as the Tuamotus, a second
sweep through the area be ignored, which makes backup GPS, possibly portable, would be a wise
it essential to update one's position as frequently investment. Just as useful will be tide tables as well
as possible. As many of the anchorages in the as detailed charts. In the case of the Tuamotus,
Tuamotus are in large lagoons, the long fetch will French charts are preferable as they are the most'
cause uncomfortable, and occasionally dangerous, recent and are being updated regularly.

PS21 Gambier to Marquesas

293
There are various routes that can be taken to or or both, the route to Tahiti passes close to Ah.e and
through the Tuamotus and the choice depends on Rangiroa. The alternative is to start further east at
how many islands 011e intends to visit before sail- Takume or Raroia and the11 thread one's way
ing on to Tahiti. The atolls of Takaroa and Manihi through the islands. One of the easiest landfalls is
are the easiest option as there are no dangers en at Takaroa, which has a clear pass which can be eas-
route from the Marquesas. Having stopped at one ily negotiated in good visibility. As there is a clear

294
to Tahiti, it is still recornmendecl to Jay a sate course At tuJJ moon, one can sail tne most direct route
outside all dangers. The recommended practice in (P523B) and thread a cautious course through the
the past has been to wait and leave the Marquesas Tuamohts, possibly between Takaroa and Manihi
with a full moon, both for improved visibility at (WP PS234) and then east of Rangiroa (WP P5235).
night and to be able to use a wider selection of Approaching Tahiti from NE, landfall is made NNE
celestial bodies in navigation. of the entrance into Papeete at WP PS236.. The pass
The easiest route (P523A) from Nuku Hiva to through the reef leading into the harbour is at
Tahiti passes close to Ahe. From WP PS231, SW of 17"32.18'5, 149 °35.1 'W. Arriving boats should pro-
Nuku Hiva, a course should be set for WP PS232, ceed to the quay on the south side of the harbour.
north of Ahe, from where the course is altered to Boats are not normally boarded and the captain is
pass west of that atoll. The next course alteration, expected to visit the various offices, located close
for WP PS233, will lead through the 20 mile gap to the main cruise s~p quay, during office hours.

295
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACI FIC

PS70 ROUTES FROM

SOUTHERN MELANESIA
PS71 New Caledonia to Fiji 337
PS72 New Caledonia to New Zealand 338
PS73 New Caledonia to New South Wales 339
PS74 New Caledonia to Queensland 339
PS75 New Caledonia to Torres Strait 340
PS76 Vanuatu to New Caledonia 341
PS77 Vanuatu to North Queensland 341
PS78 Vanuatu to Torres Strait 343
PS79 Vanuatu to Solomon Islands 343

~ 160' E 100•
~ ~ ~SOLOMON ISLANDS
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VANUATU
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40'S

160' E 180°

PS70 Routes from Southern Melanesia

336
 P570 RO UTES FROM SOUTHERN MELANESIA

The routes grouped in this section and the fol- it is best to plan to cruise the area either from south
lowing section PS80 all originate in one of the four to north or from east to west. Fortunately this fits
Melanesian countries bordering on the Coral Sea. in with most people's plans as the two main routes
Routes from the other Melanesian country, Fiji, originate in either New Zealand or Fiji. The north-
have been dealt with earlier. The western part of the bound route from New Zealand is used by people
South Pacific attracts significantly fewer cruising who have spent the cyclone season there, while
boats than its eastern part, although there is just as those coming westward from Fiji usually sail later
much to see. One of the main reasons is that by the in the season, in August and September, both
time most cruising boats get to this part of the routes converging towards the Torres Strait and
Pacific they are in a hurry to catch the favourable Indian Ocean.
season in the Indian Ocean and therefore only have Although the majority of routes are westbound,
time to stop briefly in the main ports. As in so many those who intend to sail east across the Coral Sea
other parts of the world, the delights of these should plan to do so either before or after the onset
islands can only be savoured if one reaches the of the SE trade winds which blow most consistently
more isolated and less frequented places and to do between May and September. Usually in early
that one needs time. So it is worth bearing this in April the trade winds are not yet fully established
mind and allowing sufficient time for cruising and eastbound passages can be accomplished with-
when planning a voyage through these waters. out great difficulty. However, there is a better
Tropical cyclones affect the entire region with the chance of finding favourable winds in late October
exception of Papua New Guinea north of approx- or early November at the start of the NW monsoon,
imately latitude lO 'S. The critical period is although this must be weighed up against the risk
December to the end of March when anyone would of being caught out by an early cyclone. The peri-
be ill advised to be cruising in this region. From od when these tropical storms occur in the Coral
April onwards the weather is good, although the Sea should be treated with great suspicion as very
SE trade winds tend to get almost too strong for few months are entirely free and cyclones have
some people' s liking at the height of the southern been recorded in both the accepted transitional
winter in July and August, when consistent winds months ofJune and November.
of around 25 knots are not uncommon. This is why

PS71 New Caledonia to Fiji

Because of prevailing E and SE winds this passage main island of New Caledonia or from one of the
is mostly on the wind. A good time to sail this route Loyalty Islands, as much easting as possible
is early in April, when the danger of a late cyclone should be made at the beginning of the passage.
is not great and the SE trades have not yet fully Having sailed through Havannah Passage, from
established themselves. Leaving either from the WP PS71 l , SE of the main island of New Caledonia,

337
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC

the direct route passes between Mare Island and passed closely. The first two islands, Matthew
Durand Reef. The course leads to WP PS712, north (22 '21'S, 171 '21'E) and H unter (22'24'S, 172'05'E),
of Vatulele·Island from where the route continues are easily visible as they are quite high. Much more
to Suva through the Mbengga Channel, where dangerous is the low reef Theva-i-Ra (21 '44'S,
strong contrary currents can be expected, to WP 174 '38'E), which should be given a wide berth. The
PS713. Having entered Suva Harbour through name of this reef is sometimes spelt Ceva-i-Ra and
Daveta Passage, boats must proceed to the quar- is also known by its previous name Conway Reef.
antine anchorage for clearance. Boats bound for Lautoka, on the west coast of Viti
If such a direct course for Fiji cannot be sailed on Levu, which is also a port of entry, should set
account of the wind, and easting has to be made on course for WP PS714, at the entrance into Navula
a more southerly route, several dangers will be Passage.

PS72 New Caledonia to New Zealand

Similar directions apply for this route as those passage will probably set the boat to the west,
given for route PS53 from Fiji to New Zealand. many boats stop at Norfolk Island briefly. The
Boats starting off from New Caledonia have a bet- anchorage off Kingston (29'01'5, 167'59'E) is only
ter chance of encountering favourable winds as safe in settled weather and should be left if con-
they are more to the west. Yet from the reports of ditions deteriorate. Because from this latitude
boats that have made this passage in recent years onwards the main danger is to be caught out by a
it does appear that the proportion of headwinds SW gale, any ground lost to the west, whether by
were just as high, if not higher than those encoun- calling at Norfolk Island or staying on the port tack,
tered by boats sailing direct from Fiji. Although this can be made up nearer to New Zealand. Landfall
passage has been made at all times of the year will be made at WP PS723, off North Cape. The
November is considered to be the safest month as route then continues along the coast to WP PS724,
the danger of either an early hurricane or a late off Cape Kerikeri at the entrance into the Bay of
winter gale is not too great. Islands. The most convenient ports of entry are
After leaving Noumea through the Boulari Opua, in the Bay of Islands, or Whangarei, further
Pass, from WP PS721, the direct course passes some down North Island's east coast. To reach the latter,
100 miles east of Norfolk Island (WP PS722). As the course should be set for PS725 in the approach-
such a direct course can rarely be sailed and the SE es to Whangarei.
winds likely to be encountered at the start of the

338
 PS70 ROUTES FROM SOUTHERN MELANESIA

PS73 New Caledonia to New South Wales

The only conclusion to be drawn from the large May to September and NE from Octobe~ to April.
number of people who have made this passage is The south going current is generally strongest
that one can never be sure of the kind of weather around the 100 fathom line. ·
to expect along this route. Favourable winds should Having left Noumea through Dumbea Pass, from
be expected down to about latitude 30'S, as the pro- WP PS731 a direct course can be sailed for Coffs
portion of easterly winds is generally higher, espe- Harbour and landfall made at WP PS732, off
cially during the winter SE trade wind season. Solitary Island. Coffs Harbour is the northernmost
Further south, the frequency of SW gales increas- port of entry into New South Wales, and because
es as winter approaches. From this point of view of the favourable south-setting current it is a con-
the transitional months between summer and win- venient place to clear into Australia. From there it
ter are preferable for this passage. is easy to sail to more southern ports along the
If it is not possible to lay a course for the desired coast. Boats taking the direct route from New
port because of consistent headwinds, it may be Caledonia to Sydney occasionally stop at
better to try and reach the Australian coast by the Middleton (29'28'S, 159'04'E) and Elizabeth Reefs
shortest route and use the south-setting current to (29'55'S, 159'02'E). If not stopping or in unsettled
reach ports further south. South of Sandy Cape the weather, these reefs should be passed at a safe
prevailing winds off the coast are westerly from distance.
PS74 New Caledonia to Queensland

339
ROUTES JN THE SOUTH PACIFIC

Favourable winds can be expected between New several passes. Curtis Channel should be used for
Caledonfa and the Queensland coast throughout Bundaberg and Gladstone, w hile Capricorn !
the SE trade wind season, although westerly winds Channel is convenient for ports lying further north. J.
can sometimes be encountered on routes that lead Having left Noumea and reached the open sea i
to ports in South Queensland, mainly in winter. If through Dumbea Pass, from WP PS741, a direct +
persistent headwinds make it difficult to lay a course can be set for various destinations in South
direct course for ports lying south of Sandy Cape, Queensland. Boats bound for Brisbane should set
it is better to stay on the port tack, make landfall a course for WP PS742, east of Moreton Island, in
further up the coast and use the strong south-set- the approaches to the Queensland capital. If
ting current to reach the desired port. Because of bound for Bundaberg, landfall will be made at WP
the large number of reefs dotted about the south- PS743, off Lady Elliot Island, whereas for ports
ern part of the Coral Sea, to reach ports lying north reached through the Capricorn Channel, such as
of Sandy Cape it is normally easier to sail inside the Mackay, a course should be steered for WP PS744.
Great Barrier Reef, which can be entered through For routes to ports in North Queensland see PS77.

PS75 New Caledonia to Torres Strait

This route across the Coral Sea lies within the SE to the Papuan coast to WP PS754 to pass NE of
trade wind belt and favourable winds can be Eastern Fields, the first dangerous reefs in the east-
expected throughout the winter months. However, ern approaches to Torres Strait. The course should
cyclones can occur in the Coral Sea both during the then be altered to pass clear of Goldie Reef and
summer and autumn months and, although in most enter the Great NE Channel, which goes west of
years this passage can be made at any time after the Bramble Cay. If WP PS754 is reached in good light,
I
middle of April, it is safer not to attempt it before it may be possible to use Bligh Channel and stay
the middle of June. south of Bramble Cay. Whichever route is taken,
After leaving Noumea through Dumbea Pass, great care must be taken both in the approaches to
from WP PS751 a parallel course to the coast should the Torres Strait and in the channels leading
be steered to pass between the main island and the through it as the numerous reefs make navigation
various dangers lying to the west of New extremely difficult and dangerous. More detailed
Caledonia. From WP PS752, a new course can be set directions on the approaches to the Torres Strait are
for WP PS753 to stay clear of all dangers. This direct given in route PS85 (page 348). The continuation of
route to the Torres Strait has the great advantage the route to Darwin, in Northern Australia, is
that it avoid s all known dangers right up to the described in IS11 (page 400).
entrance into Torres Strait. The route runs parallel
,.
·r'
JT
340
t
 PS70 ROUTES FROM SO UT HER N MELANESIA

PS76 Vanuatu to New Caledonia

This passage is rarely made nonstop as most of Passage, is not recommended because of the near
those who sail this route try to visit some of the certainty of encountering strong headwinds when
southern islands of Vanuatu on the way. Permission sailing along the west side of New Caledonia.
to do this should be sought before leaving Vila. It Because the trade winds are deflected by the large
is also possible to stop at some of New Caledonia's landmass, SE winds !end to become southerly on
Loyalty Islands before continuing to Noumea via the west side of New Caledonia.
Havannah Pass, although in principle one should Noumea is New Caledonia's only port of entry
have cleared into New Caledonia first. From WP and all boats must clear in there. Approaches into
PS761, SW of Efate, the direct course for Havannah Noumea are difficult at night and should not be
Pass, at the SE extremity of New Caledonia, goes attempted. If coming from either Boulari or
right past Lifou Island, at WP PS762. I.f not stopping Havannah Pass and if Noumea cannot be reached
at Lifou Island, the pass between it and Mare in daylight it is recommended to anchor for the
should be negotiated in good light before making night and enter the port the following morning.
for WP PS763, in the approaches to Havannah Pass. Arriving boats should contact Port Moselle on
This pass should be negotiated on a flood tide. Due channel 67 to arrange a berth at the visitor's dock.
to the prevailing SE winds the tide sets very strong- The marina will contact customs and immigration
ly through the pass creating large waves when the for clearance. Although New Caledonia is a
ebb tide runs against a strong wind . -French overseas territory, a bond is not required
The other alternative, that of sailing west from from cruising boats as in the case of French
Vila and reaching New Caledonia through Grand Polynesia.

PS77 Vanuatu to North Queensland ·

341
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC

Steady winds and a favourable current usually cruising boats. There are extensive reefs on the
ensure a fast passage across the Coral Sea although direct route from Port Vila to Cairns (PS77B) and
there are many reefs waiting to strike the unwary. the safest route is to leave them all to port by set-
Thanks to satellite navigation passages are now ting a course for the light on Bougainville Reef
much safer, but utmost attention is still required (15'32'S, 147'08'E). From WPPS771, SW of Efate, a
when navigating through this area . course is set for WP PS776, 12 miles north of Sand
An almost direct route can be sailed from Efate Cay on Diane Bank. From that point, the course can
to North Queensland (PS77A) by sailing a middle be altered for WP PS777, two miles north of Euston
course between the various dangers. From WP Reef light at the entrance into Grafton Passage.
PS771, SW of Efate Island, an initial course is set for Because of the various dangers, and also strong cur-
WP PS772, north of the d 'Entrecasteaux Reefs. A rents in the area, the course should not be altered
slight course alteration is needed to reach WP for Grafton Pass until confident that one is well past
0
PS773 to pass south of Mellish Reef. The route then the northernmost of Moore Reefs (1S 52'S,
goes to WP PS774 to pass halfway betwen Lihou 149'10'E). Grafton Pass is recommended as it is
and Marion Reefs. Finally, a course is set for WP used by commercial shipping and is well buoyed
PS775 from where Flinders Passage can be taken to and lit. Cairns is the official port of entry for that
reach Townsville, the nearest port of entry into area and has a good range of yachting facilities.
Australia. This route is also joined by boats com- An easier course across the Coral Sea can be
ing from Noumea and bound for the North sailed by those who clear out of Vanuatu at
Queensland coast. Luganville, on Espiritu Santo Island, from where
Boats bound for ports lying further north the direct route to Bougainville Light (PS77C) pass-
should stay outside the Great Barrier Reef on a par- es clear of all dangers. Having reached the open
allel course to it and use one of the other passes to .sea, from WP PS778, SW of Espiritu Santo, a course
reach the coast. Because of its convenient position is set for WP PS776, north of Sand Cay. From there
at the heart of the Great Barrier Reef, Cairns in similar directions apply as described above to reach
North Queensland is a popular destination for Grafton Pass at WP PS777.

342
 PS70 ROUTES FROM SOUTHERN MELANESIA

PS78 Vanuatu to Torres Strait

This is a long passage across the entire breadth of Papuan coast to WP PS783 to pass NE of Eastern
the Coral Sea but good winds can be expected Fields, the first dangerous reefs in the eastern
throughout the SE trade wind season. During the approaches to Torres Strait. Course is then altered
winter months the SE trade winds blow strongly to pass clear of Goldie Reef and enter the Great NE
and consistently along this route and fast passages Channel. If WP PS783 is reached in good light it
have been accomplished, especially between July may be possible to use Bligh Channel and stay
and early September. Although December to south of Bramble Cay. Whichever route is taken,
March are the months with the highest incidence great care must be taken both in the approaches to
of cyclones in the Coral Sea, it must be stressed that the Torres Strait and in the channels leading
these can occur as late as June and this should be through it as the numerous reefs make navigation
borne in mind when planning passages across the extremely difficult and dangerous. More detailed
Coral Sea. directions on the approaches to the Torres Strait are
From WP PS781, SW of Ma tao Tiupeniu Point, on given in route PS85 (page 348). The continuation of
Efate Island, a direct course can be set for WP the route to Darwin, in Northern Australia, is
PS782. Froin there, the route runs parallel to the described in ISll (page 400).

PS79 Vanuatu to Solomon Islands

343
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC

Having sailed through the island chain of Vanuatu, parallel to the coast before course is altered for WP
the 300 mile passage to the Solomon Islands is PS793 to make landfall SE of Santa Ana Island, a
straightforward, especially as the winds tend to be small island lying close to the east of San Cristobal
favourable throughout the SE trade wind season. Island. During strong SE winds, if bound for
During July and August the trades blow strongly, Honiara, it is better to stay in the lee of San
making this a fast but rough passage. Both at the Cristobal, which offers good shelter along its north
beginning and towards the end of the winter sea- coast. Entry formalities can be completed at the
son the trade winds are less consistent and days capital Honiara, on the north coast qf Guadalcanal.
with calms or westerly winds are common. A more convenient port of entry into the
From Luganville the south coast of Espiritu Santo Solomons may be Graciosa Bay (10 '44'S, 165'49'E),
is followed to WP PS791. From there a course is set on Ndende Island in the Santa Cruz group, lying
for WP PS792. The course runs almost due north almost due north of Vanuatu.

PS80 ROUTES FROM NORTHERN MELANESIA

PS81 Solomon Islands to Papua New Guinea 345
PS82 Solomon Islands to Torres Strait 345
PS83 Solomon Islands to Queensland 346
PS84 Papua New Guinea to Queensland 347
PS85 Papua New Guinea to Torres Strait 348
PS86 Papua New Guinea to Indonesia 349

160' E

o•

<jj] ~
\) VANUATU
'<:>
0
\)
I
20'5

~ NEW CALEDONIA t
f
I
r
r
PS~O Routes from Northern Melanesia
160' E
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344
!
 ' PS80 ROUTES FROM NORTHERN MELANESIA

PS81 Solomon Islands to Papua New Guinea

The cyclone season in the Solomon Islands coin- New Guinea, its main disadvantage being the fact
cides with the NW monsoon which affects most of that it lies in the proximity of an active volcano,
Papua New Guinea and the northwestern half of which has erupted recently. Volcanic activity in the
the Solomons. Most people try to leave the area is being carefully monitored, but the area
Solomons by early December not only to avoid the should be avoided until life returns to normal.
approaching cyclone season, but also the head- Arriving boats should proceed to the main wharf
winds that can be expected on this route during the in the northern part of Simpson Harbour to com-
NW monsoon. As the majority of those who sail plete entry formalities. Cruising yachts normally
between these two countries have usually cruised anchor off the yacht club on the east side of the har-
along the Solomon Islands chain, the crossing to bour but the club was badly damaged by the lat-
Papua New Guinea is hardly an ocean passage. The est eruption.
best point of departure is Korovou, on Shortland From April to October the winds in the Solomon
Island (7'04'S, 155'52'E), where departure formal- Sea blow mostly from the SE. During the transition
ities can be completed. period between the SE trade wind season and the
Bougainville Island, the nearest island in Papua NW monsoon, the winds are variable and there are
New Guinea, has been involved in a dispute with also prolonged periods of calm. When negotiating
the Port Moresby government and while hostilities St George's Channel between the islands of New
last yachts should keep well away from the Britain and New Ireland, attention should be paid
island. The most popular destination in the area is to the currents, which set to the south during the
Rabaul (4 '12'S, 152 '11 'E), on New Britain Island, NW monsoon and to the north during the SE trade
260 miles across the Solomon Sea. This well wind season.
protected harbour is also a port of entry for Papua

PS82 Solomon Islands to Torres Strait

345
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC

The chances of a fast passage to the Torres Strait are Reef and Adele Island. The route then continues
best when the SE trade winds are still in force. This along the same latitude south of the Louisiade
timing wiU also ensure favourable winds west of Islands to WP PS823 from where a new course is set
the Strait. With the approach of the NW monsoon, for WP PS824, north of Portlock Reef. Another
the SE trade winds become Jess reliable and by the course alteration is then made for WP PS825, in
end of September the onward leg from the Torres Bligh entrance, 10 miles SE of Bramble Cay. From
Strait will have light winds. The currents on this Bramble Cay the route enters North East Channel.
route set strongly NW and this should be taken into This well marked channel run~ in a SW direction
account if the course passes too closely to the reefs for some 130 miles to the Prin~e of Wales Channel
off Papua New Guinea. that finally opens into the Arafura Sea. Additonal
Boats leaving from Honiara will have an easier details on approaches to the Torres Strait are given
route to sail and also a better wind angle than boats in route PS85 (page 348). The continuation of the
leaving from ports further west. The route from route to Darwin is described in ISll (page 400).
Honiara leaves Guadalcanal to port and from WP Thursday Island is an official port of entry into
PS821, off the NW point of that island, a course can Australia.
be set to WP PS822 to pass well clear of Pockington

PS83 Solomon Islands to Queensland

4

The approach of the cyclone season brings an exo- is made at WP PS834 in the northern approaches
dus of cruising boats from the Solomons, either to Brisbane. There are several reefs en route where
north to Papua New Guinea (route PS81) or south one may be tempted to stop in good weather, the
to Australia. A popular place to spend the summer largest being Chesterfield Reef which has several
is the Queensland capital Brisbane. The route anchorages where yachts have stopped in the past.
across the Coral Sea has good winds at least until The reef belongs nominally to France and is admin-
September. Those who leave too late can expect istered as part of its New Caledonia territory. There
anything, including the possibility of a tropical is an unattended meteorological station on one of
depression, which may or may not develop into a the cays. There are several passes through the reef,
fully fledged cyclone. Extremely strong winds have the widest being Long Island Pass, but it is affect-
been encountered in the Coral Sea in November ed by the swell, strong currents, and overfalls. The
when a depression moves over the area. narrower Pa~sage Pass is calmer and easier to nego-
From WP PS831, off the NW tip of Guadalcanal, tiate. There is a protected anchorage off Loop Islet
a course can be set for WP PS832 to pass east of in the southern part of the large lagoon. The entire
Mellish Reef. The route continues to WP PS833 to area is an important breeding ground for birds and
pass between Saumarez and Wreck Reefs. Landfall turtles.

346
 PS80 ROUTES FROM NORTHERN MELANESIA

PS84 Papua New Guinea to Queensland

The attraction of a sheltered sail in smooth waters (PS84A) leads to the east of Osprey and Shark Reefs
tempts most people to go behind the Great Barrier to WP PS842, east of Bougainville Reef, which has
Reef as soon as they have the Coral Sea behind a powerful light and provides a convenient point
them. If coming from Port Moresby, the choice is of reference. A slight course alteration is then made
large as there are several passes that lead through for WP PS843 outside Grafton Passage. A well
the reef, from Flinders Entrance in the north to buoyed and lit channel leads into Cairns.
Cook's Pass in the south, a distance of some 250 A slightly shorter offshore route (PS84B) can be
miles. Coming from other parts of Papua New taken from Port Moresby to WP PS844 from where
Guinea, probably the most convenient pass is the One and a Half Mile Opening (14 "25'S,
Grafton Passage that leads into Cairns, the nearest 145 "26'E) is used to reach the sheltered waters
port of entry in Northern Queensland. Thursday behind the Great Barrier Reef on the way to Cairns,
Island, in Torres Strait, is also a port of entry, but the nearest official port of entry into Australia.
only a few boats take this roundabout way from For boats that have cruised the eastern part of
Port Moresby to Queensland. Papua New Guinea, a departure from Samarai
The winds in the Coral Sea blow mostly from the through the China Strait has the advantage of a vir-
E or SE between April and October so that a more tually clear run across the Coral Sea (PS84C).
easterly departure point in Papua New Guinea nor- Having passed Brumer Island and gained the open
mally ensures a better slant across the prevailing sea, from WP PS845, a direct course can be set for
winds. Between May and August the trade winds WP PS842, the same waypoint recommended as for
can sometimes be very strong, but during the tran- the offshore route from Port Moresby. The course
sitional months they are often light and the can then be altered for WP PS843 outside Grafton
weather can be squally. NW winds predominate in Passage.
summer, which is also the cyclone season. Because The Australian authorities must be contacted at
of the west-setting current and the many reefs lying least three hours before arrival in a port of entry on •
to leeward, navigation in the Coral Sea must be either 2182 kHz or VHF channel 16 to request clear-
very accurate and finding the passes through the ance. Stopping anywhere before having cleared in
Great Barrier Reef can be often difficult. is strictly prohibited and everyone on board,
Having left Port Moresby through Basilisk including the captain, must have a visa for
Pass, from WP PS841, the safest offshore route Australia.

347
 ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC

PS85 Papua New Guinea to Torres Strait

In the days before satellite navigation, Port North East Channel. This well marked channel
Moresby was the preferred port of departure for the runs in a SW direction for some 130 miles to the
passage to the Torres Strait. This was a logical Prince of Wales Channel that finally opens into the
choice as the various difficulties associated with Arafura Sea. The continuation of this route is
navigation through the Torres Strait made it described in ISll and IS12 (page 400).
essential to plan the time of arrival in the eastern The winds on this passage are predominantly
approaches to the Strait so as to minimise the risk easterly and between June and August they are
of passing close to some of the reefs at night. often strong. The currents running through the
Although satellite navigation has greatly simplified Strait have a strong westerly set at the height of the
matters, a start from Port Moresby still makes it SE trades, but their rates are unpredictable. The
easier to time one's arrival more accurately than if currents are also tidal and in the Strait itself they
one leaves from a more distant port. run WSW on the flood and NE on the ebb tide. The
The first danger en route is Portlock Reef, at a strongest sets have been recorded in the Prince of
distance of 130 miles from Port Moresby. Goldie Wales Channel, where 5 and 6 knot currents are the
Reef is 20 miles NNW of Portlock. Ideally one order of the day. Another hazard in the eastern
should try to arrive off Portlock Reef in late after- approaches is the shallow water that extends far
noon, so as to pass between it and Goldie Reef dur- offshore so that the depth sounder cannot give a
ing daylight. The next point to make for is reliable indication of one' s position. Yet another
Bramble Cay, lying some 65 miles further west. The cause of confusion are the murky waters met far
distance between Portlock and Bramble Cay can be offshore caused by a muddy discharge from the Fly
I covered during the hours of darkness, and as there
is a light with 14 miles visibility on Bramble Cay
River. The colour of the water gives no indication
of its depth.
this should be sighted before dawn. Such a timing Although navigation through this reef strewn
! would mean that Bramble Cay is passed in the early
morning and that most of the subsequent reefs and
area is not difficult after landfall on Bramble Cay,
it is easier to sail in daylight and spend the nights
islets will also be negotiated in daylight. The other at anchor behind one of the many cays. It must be
alternative, especially for faster boats, is to arrive pointed out, however, that landing on any of the
I off Portlock Reef in the morning so that the remain- islands is not allowed, as these belong to Australia
ing distance to Bramble Cay is covered in daylight. and legally one should clear in first at Thursday
The disadvantage of the latter alternative is that Island. This is impossible for boats coming from the
Portlock Reef has no light, thus making it very dan- east, so one should heed the above advice and only
gerous to arrive in its vicinity at night. anchor if absolutely necessary and neither go
I ' Leaving Port Moresby through Basilisk Pass,
from WP PS851 a course can be set for WP PS852,
ashore nor have contact with any other vessel.
Australian Coast Guard helicopters regularly
north of Portlock Reef. The course is then altered ·overfly the area to ensure that these regulations are
for WP PS853, in Bligh entrance, 10 miles SE of not violated and those who ignore them are severe-
Bramble Cay. From Bramble Cay the route enters ly punished.

348
 PS90 ROUTES FROM NEW SOUTH WALES

PS86 Papua New Guinea to Indonesia

The difficulties associated with the passage November or before the middle of April. Although
through the Torres Strait and the long detour to the weather along this route is governed by the two
Port Moresby, persuad es some people to reach monsoons, the winds are rarely steady in either
Indonesia by sailing along the north coast of New direction or strength and there are many days when
Guinea. This northern route is used mostly by boats they are light or nonexistent. Calms are particularly
that have spent the cyclone season in the eastern frequent during the transitional period. The most
part of Papua New Guinea or have been cruising constant SE winds usually occur in July and August
in that area and are therefore better poised for this when there is also a very strong NW setting cur-
route. It also gives the opportunity to visit the rent, with rates that can exceed 2 knots.
Hermit and Ninigo Islands before clearing out of Jayapura, the capital of the Indonesian province
Papua N ew Guinea at Vanimo (2 '41'S,141 'lS'E). of lrian Jaya (Western Irian), is the official port of
This is a passage that can be done only during the entry (2 '32'S, 140'43'E). The town has changed its
SE trade wind season, as during the NW monsoon, name to Sukarnapura, while in the colonial past it
from November to March, both winds and current used to be known as Hollandia. Yachts without a
are contrary. The transitional period is difficult to cruising permit should enquire at the Indonesian
define, as in some years the NW monsoon comes Embassy in Port Moresby whether they would be
early, while in others the SE trade winds do not allowed to make a emergency stop in Jayapura
establish themselves until May. Normally this pas- before committing themselves to this route.
sage should not be attempted after the middle of

PS90 ROUTES FROM NEW SOUTH WALES

PS91 New South Wales to New Zealand 350
PS92 New South Wales to New Caledonia 351
PS93 New South Wales to Fiji 352
PS94 New South Wa les to Vanuatu 353

Australian sailors have the entire South Pacific on is to sail first to New Zealand, which makes a much
their doorstep, yet reaching most of the Pacific better stepping off point for a cruis~ among the
islands is seldom easy, as the winds between the South Sea islands than Australia itself. Shorter
east coast of Australia and the island groups to the cruises from Australia's east coast lead across the
east are usually contrary. For this reason most Coral Sea, the more southern destinations, such as
Australians setting off on a world voyage prefer to New Caledonia, being reached directly, whereas for
leave the South Pacific until the end of their trip destinations in Papua New Guinea it is usually bet-
when most of the sailing will be downwind. For ter to stay for a while inside the Great Barrier Reef
those whose plans are less ambitious than a cir- before taking an offshore route.
cumnavigation of the world, the accepted practice

349
RO UTES I N THE SO UT H PACIFIC

160'E 180"
~ ~
~ VANUATU t:::J FIJI
<::. 0
0
\)
20•s

NEW ZEALAND

160' E 180°

P590 Routes from New South Wales

PS91 New South Wales to New Z ealand

350
 PS90 ROUTES FROM NEW SOUTH WALES

This passage across the Tasman Sea can occasion- The route from southern ports is direct, but a stop
ally be very rough and it pays to wait for a at Lord Howe Island might be considered by those
favourable forecast before leaving. Lows moving leaving from northerly ports. Boats leaving from
across the Tasman Sea are accompanied by strong Sydney on a direct passage to North Island (route
SW winds, often of gale force, and it may be worth PS91A), from WP PS911 outside Port Jackson, can
leaving on the tail of such a gale, which will usu- set a course for WP PS912 south of the Three Kings,
ally ensure several days of favourable winds. a group of rocks NW of Cape Reinga. Having made
Although the proportion of westerly winds is high· landfall at PS913, off North Cape, the nearest ports
er in winter, a passage between June and September of entry are Opua, in the Bay of Islands, or
is not recommended because of the likelihood of Whangarei.
encountering at least one severe gale. The best From ports south of Sydney, a more direct route
months for the crossing are January and February (PS91B) leads through Cook Strait to Wellington,
when conditions are often settled and winds are this more southerly route having a better chance of
light. Although these months coincide with the westerly winds. From WP P5911 outside Sydney,
cyclone season in the South Pacific, tropical a course can be set for PS915 off D'Urville island
cyclones rarely find their way to these latitudes, in the approaches to Cook Strait. From there the
and even when they do their force is usually spent. course is altered for WP PS916 in the Cook Strait
The Tasman Sea is affected more by extra tropical before proceeding into Wellington. Wellington
cyclones, although these normally only touch its Radio should be contacted on 2182 or 4125 kHz, or
southern part and have a higher frequency in win- VHF channel 16, not later than 12 hours before
ter, another good reason to avoid a passage during arrival to arrange clearance.
that time.

PS92 New South Wales to New Caledonia

Because of the danger posed by cyclones during the sidered. Most routes also pass close to ;Minerva and
summer, this passage should not be undertaken Elizabeth Reefs, which are best avoided, although
before the end of March. There is always a high pro· it is possible to anchor there in settled weather.
portion of easterly winds on this route, but more From WP PS921, outside Port Jackson, a direct
favourable conditions may be found during the course can be set for New Caledonia where land-
transition period, in April and early May, before the fall is made at WP PS922 outside Dumbea Pass.
onset of the strong easterlies of winter. Noumea is New Caledonia's only port of entry and
The initial course should lead straight offshore all boats must clear there. Approaches into
to pass quickly through the current that sets strong- Noumea are difficult and should not be attempt-
ly south along the Australian coast. As the route ed at night. Arriving boats should contact Port
from southern ports in New South Wales passes Moselle on VHF channel 67 to arrange a berth at the
close to Lord Howe Island, a stop there may be con- visitor's dock, where they will be cleared in.

351
 ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC

PS93 New South Wales to Fiji

The near certainty of encountering contrary winds be sailed on account of the wind, and easting has
on the great circle route rules out a direct passage to be made on a more southerly route, several dan-
to Fiji from any port in New South Wales. The rec- gers will be passed closely. The first two islands,
ommended route (PS93A) stays south of latitude Matthew (22'2l'S, 171 °2.l'E) and Hunter (22 '24'S,
32"5 until longitude 170'E is crossed from where it 172 '05'E), are easily visible as they are quite high.
gradually curves NE so that the islands are Much more dangerous is the low reef Theva-i-Ra
approached from the south. The initial course (21'44'S,174 '38'E), which should be given a wide
should stay slightly north of east, so as to pass well berth.
to the south of Minerva and Elizabeth Reefs and Regardless of the route sailed, boats bound for
! clo~e to Norfolk Island. A stop at either Norfolk or Suva can make landfall at WP PS934, north of
Lord Howe Island can be convenient to await the Vatulele Island from where the route continues to
easing of strong easterly winds. WP PS932 is only Suva through the Mbengga Channel, where strong
a guideline as the course that will actually be sailed contrary currents can be expected. If sufficient east-
will depend both on existing weather conditions ing has been made to approach Suva from the
and the windward performance of the boat in ques- south, landfall can be made at WP PS935, SW of
tion. In fact, a boat that goes well to windward may Kandavu. The course can then be altered for WP
be able to sail an almost direct course (PS93B). In PS936 so that Suva Harbour is entered through
such a case, the initial course should be set to pass Daveta Passage. Arriving vessels must either tie to
close to the SE of New Caledonia, to WP PS933. the quarantine buoy or anchor in this area and
From that point, SE of Kune Island, the direct route a wait clearance.
to Fiji passes close to a number of dangers south of Boats bound for Lautoka (PS93C), on the west
Durand Reef. If such a direct course for Fiji cannot coast of Viti Levu, from WP PS933 should set course

352
 PS90 ROUTES FROM NEW SOUTH WALES

for WP PS937, at the entrance into Navula Passage. be done earlier mthe year (see route PS91) and con-
From there the route crosses Nadi waters to tinue to Fiji in Apr.ii. This detour has the prospect
Lautoka, an official port of entry into Fiji. of better winds on the passage to New Zealand and
Because a passage to Fiji should be avoided dur- a better slant through the SE trades on the subse-
ing the cyclone season, the alternative to a direct quent leg to Fiji. See also route PS64 (page 331).
passage is to sail first to New Zealand,.which can

PS94 New South Wales to Vanuatu

Because the islands of New Caledonia straddle Efate from the west, landfall should be made at WP
most direct routes to Vanuatu, a stop in Noumea PS945, SW of Efate. The route then enters Mele Bay
is included in most passage plans. This is probably to reach Port Vila, the capital of Vanuatu. On arrival
the easier way to reach Vanuatu and directions for in Port Vila boats should tie up to the quarantine
it are similar to those for route PS92. buoy and wait to be cleared in. Port Vila Radio
A direct route from Sydney (PS94A), which should be contacted on VHF channel 16 to request
bypasses New Caledonia, leads west of Lord Howe that the relevant officials are inform~ .
Island, Elizabeth and Minerva Reefs. The route Because of the near certainty of encountering
heads in the d\rection of New Caledonia to WP strong easterly winds between Grand Passage and
PS942 to pass clear of Fairway Reef and avoid the Efate, an alternative route (PS94B) may be con-
other dangers to the west of New Caledonia. The sidered which passes south of New Caledonia. In
route then goes due north to WP PS943 and enters this case, the initial course leads to WP PS946, SE
Grand Passage. This is sailed in a NE direction to of Kune Island. From there, the course is altered to
WP PS944 before the course can be altered for Port pass to windward of the Loyalty Islands to WP
Vila. Great caution is necessary when navigating PS947, SE of Mare Island. From that point, the
west and north of New Caledonia where the posi- course can be altered for WP PS945, in the
tions of some reefs are doubtful and others have not approaches to Port Vila.
been accurately charted. Approaching the island of

353
 ROUTES IN THE SOUTH P ACIFIC

PS100 ROUTES FROM QUEENSLAND

PS101 Queensland to New Zealand 355
PS102 Queensland to New Caledonia 355
PS103 Queensland to Vanuatu 356
PS104 Queensland to Fiji 357
PS105 Queensland to Solomon Islands 358
PS106 Queensland to Papua New Guinea 359
PS107 North Queensland to Darwin 360

160"E 160'

)] Q FIJI
!) VANUATU al
<:. ~
0
"1 20'5

"
I
q Norfolk Island
1,
q Lord Howe Island

160' E

PSIOO Routes from Queensland

A tropical climate, the Great Barrier Reef, and harbour. From April onwards the Weather is
almost unlimited cruising opportunities have good, with strong and steady SE trade winds. In
turned Queensland into a favourite destination not July and August particularly, the winds can be
only among foreign sailors but also Australian quite strong and so it is recommended that, espe-
I ·'" ones. The one major disadvantage are the tropical cially in winter, the Queensland coast should be
I', . cyclones which affect both Queensland and the sur-
rounding region, with the exception of Papua New
cruised from south to north.
Although the main routes are northbound and
Guinea north of approximately latitude lO'S. The thus benefit from the prevailing winds, those who
critical period is December to the end of March intend to sail east across the Coral Sea should plan
w)len cruising should be kept to a minimum and to do so either before or after the onset of the SE
one should always be within easy reach of a safe trade winds which blow most consistently between

354
 PS100 RO UTES FROM QUEE NSLAND

May and September. Usually in early April the period when these tropical storms occur in the
trade winds are not yet fully established and east- Coral Sea should be treated with great suspicion as
bound passages are easier to accomplish. Passages very few months are entirely free and cyclones
after the end of October should be avoided have been recorded in both the transitional
because of the danger of early cyclones. The months of June and November.

PS101 Queensland to New Zealand

As a passage during the cyclone season is not rec- route from Brisbane takes its leave at PS1011, off
ommended and one in the middle of winter has few Stradbroke Island. From there a course is set for WP
attractions, the best time should be between those PS1012, halfway between Middleton (29"28'S,
two seasons. In April or May, the danger of 159 "04'E) and Elizabeth Reef (29"55'S, 159 "02'E),
cyclones is acceptably low, the weather is not yet both of which have anchorages which have been
cold, and the SE trade winds have not reached their used by yachts in settled weather. The route con-
mid-winter strength. The passage can be just as tinues to WP PS1013, south of the Three Kings, a
pleasant at the end of winter, in late October or group of rocks off New Zealand's Cape Reinga.
early November, when SW gales are also less Having rounded North Cape, the nearest ports of
frequent. entry are Opua, in the Bay of Islands, or Whangarei
The route from ports north of Sandy Cape should (35"44'5, 174 °21 'E).
pass well to the north of Middleton Reef. The direct

PS102 Queensland to New Caledonia

355
 ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC

I
I
This can be a difficult passage at all times because Sandy Cape, either Capricorn or Curtis Channels

I of the certainty of encountering contrary winds for

at least part of the voyage, if not the whole of it. It
is therefore important to wait for a forecast for
should be used to reach the open sea before laying
a course for Dumbea Pass, at the SW extremity of
New Caledonia. The route for boats leaving
westerly winds, which at least will ensure a speedy through Capricorn Channel goes to WP PS1022
start. Such winds are normally generated by fronts halfway between Wreck and Cato Reefs. Boats leav-
I moving up from the south and the weather asso- ing through Curtis Channel should stay south of
ciated with them is rarely pleasant. Because of the Cato Reef by setting course for WP PS1024. The
high proportion of easterly winds in winter it is bet- routes converge at WP PS1025 outside Dumbea
ter to plan this passage for the intermediate season. Pass. This leads into Noumea, New Caledonia's
Similarly, because of the risk of cyclones in the capital and only port of entry. Approaches into
Coral Sea, this passage should not be undertaken Noumea are difficult at night and should not be
after the middle of November or before the end of attempted. Arriving boats should contact Port
March. Moselle on channel 67 to arrange a berth at the vis-
A direct offshore route can be sailed from ports itor's dock. The marina will contact customs and
in South Queensland, but from ports north of immigration for clearance.

PS103 Queensland to Vanuatu

:Jr
I

Prevailing easterly winds, contrary currents, and cult routes in the South Pacific. Direct passages
the·many dangers dotted about the southern part from ports in Northern Queensland should not
of the Coral Sea make this one of the most diffi- even be considered and an alternative route cho-

11.J 356
------------------ - -·· - - -·

PSlOO ROUTES FROM QUEENSLAND

sen to reach the islands of Vanua\u without having the south. From a point SE of Kune Island (WP
to fight the elements all the way. The best tactic is PS1034),.the course is altered to pass to windward
to make a detour to the south, inside the Great of the Loyalty Islands to WP PS1035, SE of Mare
Barrier Reef. Having reached the open sea via the Island. From that point, the course can be altered
Capricorn Channel, the route joins route PS94, if a for WP PS1036, SW of Efate, in the approaches to
nonstop passage to Vanuatu is intended. Port Vila. The route then enters Mele Bay to reach
An easier alternative is to join route PS102 and Port Vila, the capital of Vanuatu. On arrival in Port
follow directions as far as Noumea from where Vila, boats should tie up to the quarantine buoy and
Vanuatu can be reached via the islands spread out wait to be inspected by a health officer. Port Vila
among the two groups. Such an approach has cer- Radio should be contacted on VHF channel 16 to
tain attractions as it avoids the dangerous reefs to request that the relevant officials are informed.
the west of New Caledonia and offers the possi- Another alternative is to take a route which goes
bility of breaking up the voyage in some of the through Grand Passage, north of New Caledonia,
islands of New Caledonia or Southern Vanuatu, if as described in route PS94. On that route, a better
the winds prove too much to cope with. wind angle may make it possible to stay on the star-
The suggested direct route takes its leave from board tack NE of Grand Passage and sail to Espiritu
Australia through the Capricorn Channel, from Santo Island, where it is possible to clear into
where a course is set to pass south of the various Vanuatu at Luganville (15 "31 'S, 167"1O'E) .
reefs and round the island of New Caledonia from

PS104 Queensland to Fiji

Because of both contrary winds and current sailing mended tactic is to sail south of latitude 32"5, where
a direct route from Queensland to Fiji would be a the chances of finding favourable winds are high-
very difficult undertaking. The most feasible way er, a slightly more northerly route can be taken
to reach Fiji is by a detour to the south where bet- should the winds permit this. Ideally one should
·ter winds might be found to make the required wait for a forecast of westerly winds before leav-
easting (route PS104A). Although the recom- ing. Even with favourable winds, the route should

357
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC

remain south of the latitude of Norfolk Island until more direct route (PS104B) passing close to New
past that island, If consistent headwinds are met Caledonia may be sailed. Although shorter, such
while in the vicinity of Norfolk, a stop can be made a route may not be necessarily easier as there is a
there. The anchorage at Kingston (29·01·s,167.59'E) higher chance of encountering contrary winds on
is not considered safe and should be left if the the subsequent leg between New Caledonia and
weather threatens to deteriorate. Fiji. From WP PS1041, an initial course will be
Preferably one of the ports in South Queensland sailed to WPs PS1043 and PS1044, SE of the main
should be taken as a departure port. From WP island of New Caledonia. From there, the route
PS1041, off Stradbroke Island, the initial course passes close to a number of dangers south of
goes to WP PS1042, south of Norfolk Island. From Durand Reef, before a course can be set for WP
there, the course should start curving NE. If a direct PS1045, if the intention is to make for Lautoka. The
course can be sailed from WP PS1042 to Fiji, atten- alternative, if the necessary easting can be made,
tion must be paid to Theva-i-ra Reef, also known is to head for Suva, in which case landfall should
as Conway Reef (21 "44'S, 174 "38'E), which will be be made at WP PS1046, north of Vatulele Island.
passed closely. Having made landfall off Navula From that point, the Fijian capital will be reached
Passage, at WP PS1045, that pass will be taken through Beqa Channel, separating the island of that
through the reef into Nadi Waters and on to name from Viti Levu. Daveta Passage leads into
Lautoka to complete entry formalities into Fiji. Suva Harbour where arriving boats should go to
Depending on weather conditions and the the quarantine anchorage and wait to be cleared.
windward performance of the boat in question, a
PS105 Queensland to Solomon Islands

Although this passage can be made at any time out- WP PS1054, east of Mellish Reef.
side of the cyclone season, the months of July and Boats which have reached the open seas through
August ought also to be avoided as it is the time Capricorn Channel from WP PS1052 should set a
when the SE trade winds attain their peak and sail- course for the same waypoint PS1053. The course
ing conditions can be quite rough. Because of the can then be altered for WP PS1054 to pass east of
numerous reefs that have to be avoided in the Coral Mellish Reef. From there a clear route leads to WP
Sea, there are various routes that leave from the PS1055, off the NW tip of Guadalcanal. The capi-
Australian coast. Boats leaving from Brisbane tal Honiara is on the west side of the same island.
should set a course for WP PS1053 to pass safely Boats should proceed to the anchorage off Point
between Wreck and Saumarez Reefs. The route then Cruz Yacht Club and contact Honiara Radio on
passes between Kenn and Frederick Reefs to reach VHF channel 16 and request clearance.

358
 PS100 ROUTES FROM QUEENSLAND

PS106 Queensland to Papua New Guinea

There are two main routes crossing the Coral Sea all the way to Port Moresby. From WP PS1061 out-
from Queensland to Papua New Guinea, one that side of that passage a course can be set for WP
goes direct to the capital Port Moresby (PS106A), PS1062 at the entrance into Basilisk Pass, which
the other to Samarai (PS106B), a small island off the leads into Port Moresby. Boats should proceed to
SE extremity of New Guinea. The latter route is the Royal Papua Yacht Club where visiting yachts
taken by those who wish to cruise in the outer sometimes find docking space. The captain should
islands before heading for Port Moresby and then visit the various offices to complete the
beyond. Because Port Moresby is downwind of all formalities.
other possible destinations, it is a mistake to go The alternative route to Samarai can leave the
there first as it can be very tough sailing against the Great Barrier Reef by a multitude of passes, Grafton
boisterous SE trades to reach the smaller islands Passage just outside Cairns being one of the best.
east of 'ew Guinea. If the destination is one of Because of the direction of the prevailing winds, the
those islands, Samarai provides a most convenient more northerly the starting point of this passage,
port of entry. the closer it will be to the wind. As winter passages
For the direct passage to Port Moresby from ports across the Coral Sea can be quite rough, this is an
in North Queensland it is better to stay inside the aspect that should be considered when planning
Great Barrier Reef until almost due south of Port this route. The strong winds coupled with the west-
Moresby. Cairns is the last port in Queensland setting current make it necessary to do some east-
where exit formalities can be completed and ing whenever the winds permit this.
although boats are allowed to day sail inside the Having left Cairns and gained the open sea
Great Barrier Reef after having cleared out of through Grafton Passage, from WP PS1063, outside
Australia, landing either along the coast or on one that passage, an initial course is set for WP PS1064,
of the offlying islands is prohibited. east of Bougainville Island. The route then cross-
From Cairns, one has the choice of either taking es the Coral Sea to make landfall at WP PS1065, SW
the inshore route as far as Lizard Island and reach- of Brumer Island, off the Papuan coast. Sufficient
ing the open sea through the One and a Half Mile time should be allowed to be able to cover the
Opening, or going outside the Great Barrier Reef remaining 30 miles to Samarai in daylight, where
through Grafton or Trinity Passage. In good light entry formalities into Papua New Guinea can be
the latter can be easily negotiated and is more con- completed. If there is not enough time to reach
venient than Grafton. Samarai in daylight, it is safer to anchor off the
The course from the One and a Half Mile mainland coast for the night. A good anchorage can
Opening (14 '25'S, 145'26'E) is free of any dangers be found behind Deirina Island, close to the Strait.

359
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC

PS107 North Queensland to Darwin ;

I .

There are two alternatives to reach Australia's Reef. Maintaining a northerly heading to WP
Northern Territory from its east coast, either by an PS1073, the course is then altered for WP PS1074,
inshore route that keeps close to the coast and stays SE of Bramble Cay in Bligh Entrance, the gateway
inside the Great Barrier Reef or an .offshore route into Torres Strait. From there, the main shipping
that goes through the Torres Strait using the main channel should be followed to reach the Arafura
shipping channels. The inside route is well Sea. The well marked channel runs in a SW direc-
buoyed, so it can be done nonstop and night sail- tion for 130 miles to the Prince of Wales Channel.
ing, although difficult, is not impossible. However, From there, the rest of the route to Darwin is the
most yachts sail this route in day hop§ as there are same as that for boats having taken the inshore
plenty of anchorages or small ports in which to stop route. From PS1075, west of Thursday Island, a
for the night. Having passed the top of Australia westerly course leads clear of all dangers to WP
at Cape York, the Sea of Arafura is reached through PSl 076. From there the course can be altered to pass
the intricate Endeavour Strait. through Dundas and Clarence Straits, although the
Those who wish to sail offshore will have to use longer route around both Melville and Bathurst
one of the passes through the Great Barrier Reef to Islands is recommended. From WP PS1077, NW of +
reach the open sea. The safest, but also longest, way Bathurst Island, a southerly course leads past Cape t
through the Torres Strait is through the main ship- Fourcroy in the approaches to Darwin, from
ping channel, which is well lit and buoyed. To join w here a buoyed channel leads into the harbour.
this channel, from WP PS1071 outside the One and Arriving boats should contact Darwin Port
a Half Mile Opening north of Lizard Island the Authority on VHF channel 16 or HF 2182 kHz and
route leads almost due north to WP PS1072 pass- proceed to Fisherman's Wharf for clearance.
ing halfway between Eastern Fields and Ashmore

360
 14
WINDS AND
CURRENTS OF THE
NORTH INDIAN OCEAN
he winds and weather of the entire Indian arrive in full strength until December. The winter
T Ocean are dominated by the monsoons, which
although affecting primarily the northern half of
monsoon is preceded and followed by a transi-
tional period as it is replaced by the SW monsoon
the ocean also have a bearing on the weather pat- and vice versa. This transitional period coincides
tern of the tropical South Indian Ocean. The NE with the movement across the region of the
monsoon prevails when the sun has a southern dec- Intertropical Convergence Zone which separates
lination and the SW monsoon when the sun's dec- the air masses of the northern and southern hemi-
lination is north. spheres. The ITCZ is most active in April-May and
October-November, which are also the months
when most cyclonic storms occur over the North
Northeast monsoon Indian Ocean. During this transitional period the
A predominantly NE wind blows during the win- weather ls often squally and the w inds can reach
ter months in the North Indian Ocean, Bay of gale force in these squalls. Otherwise this period
Bengal, and the Arabian Sea. The wind is very can be compared to the doldrums of other oceans,
steady and constant over most parts of the North with light winds and calms, which are gradually
Indian. Ocean, blowing with an average 10- 15 replaced by the coming monsoon. This doldrum
knots; .its strength diminishing towards the equa- belt is not so d istinctly defined as in the Atlantic
tor. Ori ·rare occasions the monsoon can reach gale and Pacific Oceans.
force, but for most of the time sailing conditions can
be described as near perfect as possible. There are
two areas in which the monsoon is less reliable and
Southwest monsoon
the winds more variable. In the Arabian Sea, north The heating of the Asian land mass during the sum-
of latitude 20 'N, the weather pattern is sometimes mer months creates a large area of low pressure
affected by the passage of d epressions to the north over the NW part of the Indian subcontinent. This
of the area. The other area lies to the SE of Sri causes the SE trade wind of the South Indian Ocean
Lanka, between latitude S'N and the equator, to be drawn across the equator where it joins the
where winds are less constant in strength and direc- general movement of air that flows in a ijnticlock-
tion, the normal direction of the wind being w ise d irection around the area of low pressure
northerly. Further east, in the Malacca Strait, the lying over India. This is the SW monsoon which
monsoon is also Jess pronounced than elsewhere. is felt from June to September in the same areas as
The NE monsoon lasts from November to its NE counterpart. The SW monsoon is a consis-
March, beginning earlier in the northern part of the tent w ind blowing at an average 20 knots for long
region where it is well established by the middle periods and frequently reaching gale force. An area
of November. Towards the equator it does not lying about 200 miles to the east of Socotra Island

361
 WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE NORTH I NDIAN OCEAN

is reputed to be the windiest spot in the Indian May to the middle of June. The second period coin-
Ocean with a frequency of gales in July similar to cides with the onset of the NE monsoon and lasts
that of Cape Horn in summer! The winds dimin- from the end of October to the second ha If of
ish gradually in strength_during August, and by November. Most of these storms form in the vicin-
September both the strength of the wind and its . ity of the ITCZ when it is situated between latitudes
di.J'.~ction become less constant. In October and S'N and 15"N.
November, the winds are often light until the Most of the storms that occur in May and June
arriyal of the·1<:rn monsoon. The weather during the are bred in the Arabian Sea from where they move
sw·i:nonso<;m is overcast and often unsettled with either in a NW and W direction, or in a N direction
,heavr rruiµalf. recurving towards the NE and the coast. Some of
the cyclones that form in October and November
I Tropit'al Storms in the Bay of Bengal move westward ac~oss South
India into the Arabian Sea. Both in the Arabian Sea
I Tropical storms or cyclones occur in the Arabian
Sea and the Bay of Bengal. The two periods of the
and Bay of Bengal, October has the highest fre-
quency of cyclones. Their frequency decreases in
I year when their frequency reaches a maximum November and they are rare in December and
i coincide with the transitional period between the January, none having been recorded in February
two monsoons. The first period of cyclonic activ- and March. After the middle of April the likeli-
I ity is at the beginning of the SW monsoon from late hood of a cyclone begins to increase.
I
I
I
I
I
I
i·
I
I
I

- + - ___. - - - - -
Southern Ocean Current

Indian pcean currents - NE monsoon

362
.:.
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE NORTH INDIAN OCEA N

Currents the equator where it meets the north flowing East

Africa Coast Current. In December and January, the
The currents of the North Indian Ocean follow a current turns east and becomes the Equatorial
seasonal pattern because of the monsoons and Countercurrent.
reverse their direction under their influence. The The Equatorial Countercurrent is the only cur-
Northeast Monsoon Current occurs during the NE rent of the North Indian Ocean which does not
monsoon and reaches its peak in February. It is reverse its direction as a result of the monsoons.
located between the equator and latitude 6 "N and However, its strength is reinforced during the tran-
has a westward set. Its counterpart is the Southwest sitional periods between the two monsoons in
Monsoon Current which occurs from May to April-May and October-November. It sets east
September and can be considered to be a continu- throughout the year and lies to the north of the
ation of the Somali Current. This current can attain west-setting Equatorial Current. The Equatorial
very high rates, especially off the coast of Somalia Countercurrent reaches its southern limit in
and in the vicinity of Socotra, where some of the February, at the height of the NE monsoon, when
strongest sets in the world have been recorded, it sometimes flows very close to the Northeast
with rates of up to 7 knots. Although the initial set Monsoon Current. This means that by moving
is NE, the current becomes east in the open waters slightly to the north or south, it is possible to shift
of the Arabian Sea until it reaches the landmass of from a west-setting to an east-setting current. The
India and turns SE. southern limit of the Countercurrent is always
At the time of the NE monsoon, the Somali south of the equator, regardless of season.
Current flows SW along the African coast as far as

~ .

363
 15
ROUTES IN THE
NORTH INDIAN OCEAN
ompared to the other two great oceans of the mostly because of the complicated and lengthy for-
C world, the Indian Ocean is crisscrossed by a
relatively small number of cruising routes. One rea-
malities to which visiting yachts are submitted by
Indian officials. For similar reasons, few boats ven-
son for this is the smaller number of sailing boats ture into any of the Gulf states.
that spend any length of time cruising as opposed The favourable season for a passage across the
to crossing this ocean as part of a world voyage. North Indian Ocean is during the NE monsoon,
The routes are governed by the predictability of the when almost perfect sailing conditions can be
weather, the seasons being much better defined expected. Although this season lasts from
than anywhere else. The regularity of the monsoons December to March, passages made in January and
was recognised by early navigators who knew how February have the advantage that the
to take full advantage of the seasonal wind pat- Mediterranean is reached after the coldest weath-
terns. Because of this regularity it is very easy to er is over and the cruising season is beginning.
plan a voyage well in advance so as to make a par- The Bay of Bengal has typical monsoon weath-
ticular passage at the optimum time. This applies er. The NE monsoon begins in October in northern
both to the northern half of the ocean, which is areas and is established only in November further
dominated by the NE and SW monsoons, and to its south. It blows steadily with fine dry weather until
southern half which is under the influence of the April, when the weather becomes hot, still, and
SE trade winds. oppressive. The SW monsoon only establishes itself
There are two major routes crossing the Indian around the middle of June, but quickly becomes
Ocean, both of which start from the Torres Strait. strong, around 20-25 knots and blows steadily until
For those who wish to cruise in the Mediterranean August when it starts to decrease, disappearing in
or intend to reach southern Europe by the shortest October. Cyclones are more numerous in the Bay
route, the logical way leads through_the North of Bengal than in any other area of the Indian
Indian Ocean and Red Sea. For those who wish to Ocean, although they are som etimes shorter and
reach the Atlantic by way of the Cape of Good less severe. They can occur from April through to
Hope, the d irect route leads across the South Indian December, but are most frequent in July and
Ocean to South Africa. October at the change of monsoons.
Most other routes in the Indian Ocean are vari- Weather conditions are very similar in the
ations of the above two. For boats sailing in the Arabian Sea and it is the seasonal winds of this sea
North Indian Ocean, the harbour of Galle in Sri which gave rise to the word 'monsoon' meaning
Lanka continues to be a popular port of call which season. As in other parts of the North Indian Ocean,
does not seem to have been affected by political the NE monsoon has the better weather. The wet
troubles in that coun try. Most boats arrive in Galle season coincides with the SW monsoon, which
from Thailand or Malaysia. They are mostly commences in May in the south and spreads over
bound for the Red Sea and have waited in SE Asia the whole area by June. There is usually squally
to make the crossing of the North Indian Ocean at weather at the monsoon changeover. On the
the optimum time. Indian coast the SW monsoon arrives with a
In spite of India's many attractions, most cruis- sudden burst of wind from the east, heavy rain and
ing boats continue to bypass this great country, thunder for several hours before the SW winds take

364
 IN10 ROUTES FROM SOUTHEAST ASIA

over. This burst of the monsoon is preceded by a June until August the SW monsoon takes over,
week of vivid lightning which disappears every blowing strongest in July with frequent winds
day when the sun sets. The SW winds in the around 30 knots. During the SW monsoon, a strong
Arabian Sea are very stong and can blow at 30 local land breeze called the kharifblows for up to 30
knots for several days. There is a very high fre- miles off the African coast. Reinforcing the SW
quency of gale force winds especially near the wind, it can reach gale force during the night and
island of Socotra during the month of July. In Sep- is very dry, full of dust and sand off Africa. In a sim-
tember the winds start weakening and the mon- ilar fashion a strong Nor NW wind called the belat
soon breaks up and disappears by October. blows off the Arabian coast from December to
Cyclones occur at two periods of the year which March. Again it starts at night, is full of dust and
coincide with the monsoon changeover. April to sand, and can reach 30 knots in some coastal areas.
July is one period, with the highest frequency in There is sometimes poor visibility due to haze or
June, while October has the highest frequency in mist, especially along the Arabian coast during the
the other period, although cyclones can occur from SW monsoon. Very rarely cyclones stray with little
September through until December. Most cyclones warning from the Arabian Sea into the Gulf of
curve NW to strike the shores of the Arabian Aden. The dangerous months are June and October.
Peninsula or else tend to recurve to the NE towards Note: Navigators are warned that the position of
India and Pakistan. the Maldive Islands do not agree with current GPS
The NE monsoon lasts from October to April, observations and therefore the islands should be
although the winds are diverted to blow more east- approached with utmost care. It is stressed that any
erly into the Gulf of Aden, blowing SE or S through waypoints are only given as guidelines and
the Bab el Mandeb Strait into the Red Sea. From should not be relied upon when making landfall.

IN10 ROUTES FROM SOUTHEAST ASIA

IN11 Singapore to Western Malaysia 366
IN12 Western Malaysia to Thailand 368
IN13 Western Malaysia to Sri Lanka 368
IN14 Thailand to Sri Lanka 369
IN15 Thailand to Singapore 370

0' BO'E

IN10 Routes from Southeast Asia

365
ROUTES I N THE NORTH INDIAN OCEAN

The main cruising route leads from Singapore squalls, and less rain as the NE monsoon penetrates
through the Malacca Strait into the Bay of Bengal. into the area. Even in this season it is possible to get
It is used mostly by boats on a world voyage from NW or W winds for some days. March and April
the South Pacific to the North Indian Ocean and the are variable and the SW monsoon starts early in
Red Sea. They are joined in Singapore by boats May, being strongest in July and August. The SW
coming from the countries of the Far East, mostly winds are strongest in the northern portions of the
from Hong Kong and the Philippines. The number Malacca Strait, variable from SE to SW with cairns
of boats sailing through Southeast Asia in the oppo- in the centre and more SE in ~outhern areas
site direction is much smaller. Pacific routes from towards Singapore.
Singapore are described on page 225. Sea and land breezes occur on both shores of the
Being so close to the equator, Singapore has a hot Malacca Strait and up to 20 miles offshore. The sea
and humid climate, which varies little throughout breeze begins about mid-morning and reaches a
the year. Calms and light winds occur throughout maximum in the afternoon, dying away at suriset.
the year. The NE monsoon begins in November, The strength of the breeze can be augmented to 20
although the NE winds are deflected and appear knots if it combines with the prevailing monsoon
at the beginning of this period as a NW monsoon. or can remain light and variable if the monsoon
By January NE winds are established but they do opposes the breeze. Conditions vary greatly from
not blow as strongly or as steadily as over the South place to place. On the Malaysian coast the night
China Sea. From April onwards the SE trade winds land breeze can be very strong, starting in the
penetrate from south of the equator, the winds evening and sometimes blowing hard all night.
often having a southerly component. Between Further up the coast towards Thailand, the SW
April and November the area is affected by suma- monsoon blows more steadily and stongly than in
tras, thundery storms with strong winds, which the Malacca Strait, lacking the shielding effect of
blow across from Sumatra and last for several the large island of Sumatra. SW winds dominate "I
hours. from May to September with their maximum
Although within the monsoon areas of the Indian steadiness in July and August. On the other hand
Ocean, the weather in the Malacca Strait is highly the high landmass of Thailand shelters this coast
influenced by local conditions, and variable winds from the NE monsoon, which tends to have a more
with regular land and sea breezes occur at all times northerly component than elsewhere. Very rarely,
of the year. The SW monsoon is blocked by the high about once every fifty years, tropical storms come
island of Sumatra, while the Malaysian peninsula across from the Bay of Bengal and reach the Gulf
does the same to the NE monsoon. January to of Siam.
March normally has the best weather, fewer

IN11 Singapore to Western Malaysia

366
 IN10 ROUTES FROM SOUTHEAST ASIA

Although a passage through Malacca Strait can be Strait, as a point of departure, the route runs par-
undertaken throughout the year, the most settled allel to the Malaysian coast to WP IN112. A first
weather is during the NE monsoon, when the fre- stop can be made at Muar (2 '02'N, 102 "34'E), which
quency of squalls is much lower than during the is an official port of entry into Malaysia.
opposite season. The notorious sumalras are more Alternatively, one may continue to WP IN113, off
frequent during the SW monsoon, and because they Panjang Island, in the approaches to Malacca
are accompanied by heavy rain and gale force (2'15'N, 102'35'E). WP IN114 brings one to the
winds they can make navigation difficult, the sit- south entrance to the channel leading into Port
uation being also complicated by the large amount Klang, Malaysia's main port serving the capital
of shipping. Kuala Lumpur. South Klang Strait leads into the
Another feature of navigation in Malacca Strait port, where the Royal Selangor Yacht Club is locat-
are the strong tidal currents which, combined with ed on its eastern side (3 '00.3'N, 101 '23.S'E).
the normally light winds, make it more convenient Visiting boats may use the facilities of the yacht
to anchor between tides than to try and sail against club, whose office will also assist with the clearance
the current. This can be easily done as there are formalities.
anchoring depths all along the sides of the strait Northbound boats will leave the port through
and there are sufficient protected places where one North Klang Strait and pick up the offshore route
can stop for a few hours. The Malaysian side is at WP IN115. The route continues parallel to the
preferable if this passage is done in shorter Malaysian coast to WP IN116 west of the Sembilan
stages. Light winds and calms are more frequent Islands. Ten miles further north, the island of
during the day, so it is better to sail at night when Pangkor hides the entrance into Dindings river and
breezes are steadier and the weather is generally the small town of Lumut. If a stop in Penang is not
more pleasant. One hazard, however, that is intended, the route continues offshore that island.
almost impossible to avoid at night are the numer- Otherwise, WP IN117 marks the entrance into
ous fish traps that line the two sides of the strait, South Channel, which leads to the narrows sepa-
so it is a good id ea to keep out of shallow water rating Penang from the mainland. Access under the
during the hours of darkness. bridge joining Penang to the mainland is prohib-
Very few, if any, voyages along the west coast of ited without written permission, so if one does not
Malaysia are made without stopping and for this have such permission, one should either anchor
reason this route has been divided into two, with south of the bridge or use North Channel. To clear
a break at Port Klang where most northbound boats into Malaysia at Penang, one has to visit customs
usually interrupt their journey. There are several in Georgetown, whereas the immigration office is
ports between Malacca and Penang that can be vis- in Butterworth on the mainland. For most north-
ited by northbound boats from Singapore. Entry bound boats, the last stop in Malaysia is the island
formalities for Malaysia can be completed at of Langkawi, whose main attraction is that it is a
Malacca, where it is possible to come alongside duty-free area. WP IN118 is off Tyson Strait lead-
other boats moored on the banks of the river. ing into the perfectly protected Bass Harbour.
Taking WP INlll, at the entrance into the Malacca

367
ROUTES IN THE NORTH INDIAN O CEAN

IN12 Western Malaysia to Thailand

f
;
1

The best season for this route is during the NE directly to Phuket, from WP IN123, west df
monsoon, when the weather is most settled, Langkawi, a course can be set for WP IN124,
although winds for this northbound passage are halfway between Besi and Tenga islands in the
not always favourable. The main cruising attraction Butang group, which belong to Thailand. From
on Thailand's west coast is the island of Phuket and there the route continues in a NW direction past
the surrounding area. several offlying islets and rocks to WP IN125, off
Boats leaving from Georgetown, Penang's main Ao Chalong and Phuket harbour. Boats can anchor
town and harbour, should use North Channel to in the well protected bay at Ao Chalong, from
reach the open sea. As most northbound boats stop where the captain has to make his own way into
in Langkawi on their way to Thailand, from Penang Phuket Town to complete entry formalities .
and WP'IN121 the course leads to WP IN122 off
Tyson Strait, which opens into Bass Harbour.
Whether stopping in Langkawi or continuing
Alternatively one can continue north for another
five miles into Ban Nit Marina, which is reached via
a one mile Jong channel.
.'
i
.\
l
j
...
IN13 Western Malaysia to Sri Lanka

368
 INlO ROUTES FROM SOUTHEAST ASIA

The best passages along this route are made normally set off on this passage, both of them being
between January and March, when the NE mon- located on islands off the Malaysian coast. Boats
soon blows consistently over the North Indian leaving from Penang (route IN13A) will reach the
Ocean. The passage should not be undertaken too open sea through North Channel and take their
early before the monsoon has had time to establish departure from WP IN131. Another popular
itself, as steady winds can rarely be relied upon departure point is Langkawi (route IN13B), in
before the middle of December. A start from which case the passage will start from WP IN132,
Singapore or Malaysia in early January has the best in Tyson Strait. The direct route to the southern tip
chance of excellent winds both on the leg to Sri of Sri Lanka passes between Rondo and Great
Lanka and on to the Red Sea. Much less favourable Nicobar Island. From either of those departure
conditions will be encountered during the transi- points a course should be set for WP IN133. It is
tional period, in April and October- November, normally possible to call at Sabang, a small port on
0
when westerly winds are quite common and there the island of We (S 53'N, 95 °19'E), off the northern
is a high risk of cyclones in the Bay of Bengal. coast of Sumatra, where yachts have been allowed
This passage is not recommended during the SW to stop briefly even if they were not in the posses-
monsoon, both on account of the contrary winds sion of an Indonesian cruising permit. Having
and the danger of cyclones in the Bay of Bengal. passed Sumatra, from WP IN133 the course ls
Although boats have tried to reach Sri Lanka dur- altered for WP IN134, off Dondra Head, the south-
ing the SW monsoon by sailing on a southerly ern tip of Sri Lanka. The island's south coast ls then
course after passing the northern extremity of followed to Galle, which is entered through the
Sumatra, in the hope of making their westing south Eastern Channel. The town of Galle is on the west
of the equator, this is an extremely difficult passage side of the large bay, whereas the small port is in
and should be avoided if at all possible. A more the NE corner of the bay in a part of the town called
logical alternative is to reach the Indian Ocean from Magalle. The entrance into the port is difficult to
· Singapore via Sunda Strait and then follow direc- find in the dark, so arrivals should be either timed
tions as for route IT12 (page 384). for daylight or one can anchor for the night in the
During the NE monsoon boats leaving from ports NE corner of the bay and enter the port the fol-
in the south of the Malacca Strait or even Singapore lowing morning. The services of a local agent are
should sail on the Malaysian sid~ until the north required to complete the necessary fomalities and
of Sumatra can be fetched on the starboard tack. such an agent will normally visit the boat soon after
There are two convenient ports from which boats arrival.

IN14 Thailand to Sri Lanka

369
ROUTES JN THE NORTH INDIAN OCEAN

At the height of the NE monsoon, between The Nicobars belong to India and cruising boats
January and March, the winds along this route can have not been allowed to stop there in the past.
be perfect and some of the most pleasant passages Having passed the Nicobars, the course can be
have been experienced on this route. Directions are altered for WP IN144, off Dondra Head, the south-
very similar to those given for route INI3. ern tip of Sri Lanka. From there, the route runs par-
Taking one's d eparture from Phuket at WP allel to the island's south coast to Galle Harbour,
IN141, east of Ko Keonoi, there is a choice of routes which is entered through Eastern Channel.
to pass either to one side or the other of the Nicobar Approaching Galle from the east, especially at
Islands. WP IN142, south of Great Nicobar, offers night, Goda Gala rocks, SE of the harbour, should
the easier option and is the recommended route be given a wide berth and the bay approached from
(IN14A). The alternative (IN14Bl is to set course for the south. The town of Galle is on the west side of
WP IN143, north of Little Nicobar, and pass the large bay, whereas the small port is in the NE
through Sombrero Channel. The disadvantage of corner of the bay in Magalle. Boats are normally
the latter is that there will be more dangers to avoid met by an agent whose services are needed to com-
and also more small boat traffic, especially at night. plete entry formalities.

IN15 Thailand to Singapore

370
 IN20 ROUTES FROM SRI LANKA

The west coast of Thailand south of Phuket can be hours of darkness.

cruised throughout the year as it is not affected by On leaving Phuket, southbound boats have the
the cyclones that originate in the Bay of Bengal, choice of either taking an inshore route (IN15B) and
although the more pleasant weather occurs during stopping in a number of conveniently placed ports
the NE monsoon. During the SW monsoon the along the Malaysian shore, or staying offshore
weather is sultry and hot and the frequency of (IN15A) . Leaving from WP IN151, south of Phuket,
squalls is higher. Sailing conditions along the the offshore route goes to WP IN152. If planning to
Malaysian coast and in the Malacca Strait are also stop in Langkawi, the nearest port of entry into
better during the NE monsoon. In both seasons the Malaysia, the inshore route is taken to WP IN153,
main current has a northerly set. halfway between Besi and Tenga islands in the
Although a passage through Malacca Strait can Butang group. From there the course can be altered
be undertaken throughout the year, the best for WP IN154, off the west coast of Langkawi.
weather conditions will be experienced during the While the offshore route continues to WP IN155,
NE monsoon, when the frequency of squalls is those wishing to stop at Penang should set course
much lower than during the opposite season. Also for WP IN156, at the entrance into North Channel
less frequent are the notorious sumatras, which can leading to Georgetown.
make navigation very difficult in these busy The density of shipping traffic increases as one
waters as the squalls are accompanied by heavy moves towards Singapore, and by the time the off-
rain and gale force winds. As mentioned earlier, shore route has reached WP IN157 one should be
another feature of navigation in Malacca Strait are prepared for a lot of shipping. The route continues
the strong tidal currents which, combined with the to WP IN158, at the entrance into the Singapore
normally light winds, make it more convenient to Channel. The new Raffies Marina, on the west
anchor between tides. This can easily be done as shore of Singapore Island, is the best place to make
there are anchoring depths all along the Malaysian for in this, the busiest port in the world .
shore and there are sufficient protected places Although most cruising boats prefer the west
where one can stop for a few hours. The Malaysian coasts of Malaysia and Thailand, a number of
side is preferable if this passage is done in short- yachts have ventured recently along the east coasts
er stages. Light winds and calms are more frequent of these two countries which face the South China
during the day, so it is better to sail at night when Sea. There are many attractive fishing harbours
breezes are steadier. One hazard which is almost along the coast from Singapore to the Gulf of Siam.
impossible to avoid at night are the numerous fish Because that coast is exposed to easterly winds, it
traps that line the two shores. It is therefore rec- is better to sail there during the SW monsoon. See
ommended to sail in deeper waters during the route PN41 (page 226) for more deta~ls.

IN20 ROUTES FROM SRI LANKA

iN21 Sri Lanka to Red Sea 372
IN22 Sri Lanka to Oman 373
IN23 Sri Lanka to India 374
IN24 Sri Lanka to Maldives 374
IN25 Sri Lanka to Singapore 375
Sri Lanka occupies such a strategic position at the boats pass it by without stopping. Because the cap-
crossroads of the Nort.h Indian Ocean that few ital Colombo is a busy commercial harbour, all

371
ROUTES IN THE NORTH INDIAN OCEAN

Mahe
I
SEYCHELLES •"o
60"E 80°E

IN20 Routes from Sri Lanka

cruising boats call at Galle, on the southern tip of squally weather and rain. The mod erate NE
the island. The usual time to arrive is at the height winds prevail with fine dry weather until March or
of the NE monsoon, in January and February, when April. The SW monsoon lasts longer than else-
the small port is full to capacity. Because most where, beginning in May and lasting right through
world voyagers are westbound towards the Red until December, The SW monsoon often com-
Sea and Suez Canal, eastbound passages are mences with a 'monsoon burst', a blast of east wind
rather rare although there are a few boats arriving that arrives with rain, thunder and lightning after
in Sri Lanka from the Red Sea or East Africa. Those a week of large clouds and vivid lightning which
who plan to sail eastwards across the North Indian disappear after sunset. The SW winds are fairly
Ocean must wait for the SW monsoon, which pro- constant in direction, usually strengthening to
vides excellent sailing conditions even if at times 20-35 knots by mid-morning and slackening off in
the winds might be too strong for some people's the late afternoon, dropping to around 10 knots
liking. Although most boats passing through Sri during the night. Heavy rain occurs on the SW
Lanka are in a hurry to reach the Red Sea, some use coast from May to September. The south coast is
the island as a convenient starting point for a cruise affected by heavy swell during the SW monsoon.
among the islands scattered around the centre of Although rarely hit by cyclones originating in the
the Indian Ocean. Arabian Sea, which move to the NW, those which
The NE monsoon only sets in at the end of originate in the Bay of Bengal can strike Sri Lanka,
November or even in December, arriving with most frequently in November and December.

IN21 Sri Lanka to Red Sea

372
 IN20 ROUTES FROM SRI LANKA

At the height of the NE monsoon, when the aver- IN2l4, in the Gulf of Tadjoura. The route passes
age wind strength is between 10 and 15 knots, this south of the Musha islands and then turns SW
passage can be truly delightful. There is also a towards the port of Djibouti avoiding the various
favourable current and the frequency of gales in the dangers, all of which are marked by buoys. The rec-
North Indian Ocean is nil. Winds become lighter ommended anchorage (11"36.l'N,43'08.l'E) is off
towards March and at such times it is advisable to the Djibouti Yacht Club whose facilities may be
leave Sri Lanka with a good reserve of fuel The one used by visiting boats. The various authorities are
problem to worry about is the large amoilnt of ship- in the nearby commercial harbour and must be vis-
ping, either converging into the Gulf of Aden, or ited to complete entry formalities.
crossing to and from the Persian Gulf. From WP IN123, boats bound for Aden (Route
i Having left Galle Harbour through the Western IN21B) should set a course for WP IN125, at the
i. Channel, boats bound for Djibouti (route IN21A) entrance into the port of Aden. A marked channel
from WP IN211 can set an initial course for WP leads into the Inner Harbo.ur, where yachts ancl1or
IN212 to pass through the Eight Degree Channel, off the customs dock. Boats are normally met on
20 miles south of Minicoy Island. The route then arrival by a port control launch and directed to the
crosses the Arabian Sea to WP IN213, 30 miles NE anchorage.
of Socotra Island. If the winds allow it, Socotra This passage is not normally undertaken during
should be passed to the north and at least 30 miles the SW monsoon and it should not even be con-
off, due to the apparent unfriendliness of its inhab- sidered. The only alternative is to cross the equa-
itants. After the middle of March, if SW winds are tor and make one's westing with the help of the SE
experienced near the island, it may be necessary to trade winds, possibly south of the Chagos
pass south of Socotra and between it and the Archipelago, before recrossing the equator. As such
African coast. a route runs close to the Seychelles, directions
From WP IN213 a course can be set for WP would be similar to those for route IT16 (page 388).

IN22 Sri Lanka to Oman

373
ROUTES IN THE NORTH INDIAN OCEAN

Rather than sail nonstop to the Red Sea, a few boats made before the end of the year to allow the mon-
break the voyage on the way, Oman providing one soon to establish itself.
of the few places where this is possible. The course Although the Sultanate of Oman does not
after leaving Galle at WP IN221 leads to WP IN222, encourage tourism, cruising boats that make the
south of the Laccadive Islands in the middle of the detour to stop there are treated courteously.
Nine Degree Channel. Occasionally boats have Foreign boats are only allowed to stop in Raysut
stopped at Sueli Par, an atoll on the north side of (Mina Razute), an excellently protected harbour.
the channel. A course can then be set for WP IN223, Those who have had the foresight to arrive with
five miles SE of the entrance into Raysut harbour. visas may move around the country freely, those
The weather during the NE monsoon is very without have to observe a curfew and are only
pleasant and the passage from Sri Lanka usually allowed outside the port area during daylight
enjoys excellent winds. The passage should not be hours on working days (Saturday to Wednesday).
IN23 Sri Lanka to India

Mainly because of considerable bureaucratic hur- The northbound passage is not easier during the
dles, only a small number of yachts include India SW monsoon when the weather is often unsettled.
in their cruising plans. Although the NE monsoon One alternative is to reach NW India towards the
has more settled weather, the high proportion of end of the SW monsoon, in September, and sail
NW winds make it difficult to reach most ports on down the coast with the help of the NW winds and
the west coast of the Indian s ubcontinent during south-setting current that occur at the change of
this-monsoon. Coastal navigation is made some- seasons. During the NE monsoon constant, light
what easier between December and February by northerly winds will be experienced as far north as
alternating land arid sea breezes which make it pos- Cochin. For this reason few boats venture further
sible to take long tacks along the coast. When sail- north than Cochin, where it is possible to leave the
ing along the coast at night it is almost impossible boat under guard and travel inland. .
to avoid the numerous fishing nets and small boats Having left Galle Harbour through the Western
without lights that are a feature of this coast. Channel, from WP IN231, a course can be set for
During the hours of darkness it is safer to stay a few WP IN232, 20 miles south of Cape Comorin, the
miles offshore. southern tip of India. In strong winds and big seas,

374
 IN20 ROUTES FROM SRI LANKA

this point should be rounded further offshore as the is possible, although the lights on several buoys
seas tend to get very rough in its vicinity. The route have been reported as not working. Arriving yachts
then swings north parallel to the coast to WP IN233, should ·contact Cochin Port Authority on VHF
off Tangaserri Point. Another course alteration is channel 16 and anchor off the north tip of
made for WP IN234, SW of the entrance into Cochin Willingdon Island, where a customs launch will
harbour. Entering the well protected port at night come to start entry formalities .

IN24 Sri Lanka to Maldives

This passage is best made during the NE monsoon From WP IN241 outside Galle harbour a direct
when winds are mostly favourable. Contrary course leads to North Male Atoll. If heading
winds and a strong east-setting current are the straight for the capital Male (the only port of entry),
order of the day for a passage during the SW mon- landfall should be made at WP IN242, south of
soon, and even during the transitional months the Mirufenfushi and Diffushi, two low islets marking
winds are often westerly. Tropical storms very the easternmost point of North Male Atoll. The
rarely touch the Northern Maldives and the dan- course can then be altered for WP IN243, 2.5 miles
ger of encountering a cyclone along this route is east of Male Passage that leads into the large
remote. The Maldives should be approached with lagoon. Port Control should be contacted on
great caution both because they are all low lying arrival on VHF channel 16.
islands and because of the strong currents.

IN25 Sri Lanka to Singapore

375,,
ROUTES IN THE NORTH INDIAN OCEAN

The recommended time for this passage is during night. Between April and November the area is
the SW monsoon, although at its height the winds affected by sumatras, thundery storms with gale
may be rather too strong. The transition months force winds, which blow across from Sumatra and
may provide better sailing conditions, but they also last for several hours.
carry the higher risk of cyclones. Although the Having left Galle harbour through the Eastern
cyclone season in the Bay of Bengal extends over Channel, from WP IN251 the route follows Sri
the entire SW monsoon period, at the height of the Lanka's south coast to WP IN252, off Dondra Head,
monsoon the development of tropical storms is the southern tip of the island. The route then cross-
opposed by the strong monsoon; the few cyclones es the Bay of Bengal to WP IN253, south of Great
between July and September normally stay well to Nicobar Island. If the intention is to sail nonstop to
the north of the area crossed by this route. Singapore, the course should be altered for WP
In the Malacca Strait the SW monsoon is usual- IN254 at the entrance into Malacca Strait. The off-
ly blocked by the land mass of Sumatra and better shore route (IN25A) continues to WPs IN255 and
winds are therefore found on the Malaysian side of IN256, at the entrance into the Singapore Channel.
the strait. Sailing along that shore is in any case rec- The new Raffles Marina, on the west shore of
ommended as one can clear into Malaysia at a num- Singapore Island, is the best place to stop in this
ber of ports, whereas a stop in Sumatra necessitates extremely busy port.
the compulsory Indonesian cruising permit. The Boats intending to visit some of Malaysia before
one notable exception is Sabang, on Pulau We, a reaching Singapore can clear in at Penang (IN25B).
small island off the northern tip of Sumatra From WP IN253, the course should be altered for
where boats have been allowed to stop briefly even WP IN257, at the entrance into North Channel lead-
without a permit. Because of the strong tidal cur- ing to Georgetown, the main town on the island.
rents in Malacca Strait, it is usually better to anchor The customs office is in Georgetown, whereas the
between tides. The SW winds are strongest in the immigration office is on the mainland, at
northern portions of the Malacca Strait, variable Butterworth. When leaving Penang, boats must not
from SE to SW with calms in the centre, and more pass under the bridge joining Penang to the main-
SE in southern areas towards Singapore. land without written permission.
Sea and land breezes occur on either coast and Alternatively, boats intending to sail direct to
up to 20 miles offshore. The sea breeze begins about Port Klang (IN25C) from WP IN254 should alter
mid-morning and reaches a maximum in the after- course for WP IN258, at the northern entrance into
noon, dying away at sunset. The strength of the Klang Strait. This leads into Port Klang, which
breeze can be augmented to 20 knots if it combines serves Malaysia' s capital Kuala Lumpur. Visiting
with the prevailing monsoon. On the Malaysian boats may use the facilities of the Royal Selangor
coast the night land breeze can be very strong, start- Yacht Club in Port Klang, located on the eastern
ing in the evening and sometimes blowing hard all shore of the harbour.

376
 IN30 ROUTES IN THE ARABIAN SEA

IN30 ROUTES IN THE ARABIAN SEA

IN31 India to Red Sea 377
IN32 Oman to Red Sea 378
IN33 Red Sea to Sri Lanka 379
IN34 Red Sea to Maldives 380

Most small boat traffic in the Arabian Sea is west- blow with great strength and constancy over this
bound and the busiest routes are those sailed by area. The NE monsoon begins in November and is
boats using the NE monsoon to reach the Red Sea the time of fair weather. In the northern areas it can
from Sri Lanka or the Maldives. Eastbound voyages be more N than NE and even NW. It blows a t an
are far less common and, outside the months of average 10to15 knots at the beginning of the sea-
January and February, sailing boats are quite a rar- son. The winds increase to 15 to 20 knots in
ity. The mostly unpleasant weathe.r encountered December and can be even stronger in the north.
during the SW monsoon is not the only reason why The wet season coincides with the SW monsoon,
most sailors avoid the North Indian Ocean in sum- which commences in May in the south and
mer. The other reason is the less than friendly spreads over the whole area by June. The weath-
reception extended to cruising yachts in many of er can be very squally at the monsoon changeover.
the countries bordering on the Arabian Sea. On the Indian coast, the SW monsoon arrives with
The seasonal winds of this sea gave us the word a sudden burst of wind from the east, heavy rain,
'monsoon' and both the NE and SW monsoons and thunder for several hours before the SW winds

..
•o
·~
MALDIVES :: °'-Male
'-~
,•, 80°E

IN30 Routes in the Arabian Sea

take over. This burst of the monsoon is preceded coincide with the monsoon changeover. April to
by a week of vivid lightning which disappears July is one period with a high frequency, with June
every day at sunset. The SW winds in the Arabian having the highest incidence of cyclones. October
Sea are very strong and can blow at gale force for has the highest frequency in the other period,
several days. There is a high frequency of gales near although cyclones can occur from September
the island of Socotra in July. In September the through until December. Most cyclones curve NW
winds start weakening and the monsoon breaks up to strike the shores of the Arabian Peninsula or else
and disappears by October. tend to recurve to the NE towards India and
Cyclones occur at two .periods of the year which Pakistan.

377
RO UTES IN THE NORTH INDIA N OC EAN

IN31 India to Red Sea

A direct route to the Red Sea can be sailed from Guardafui, at WP IN315 the northern route is
anywhere on the west coast of India at the height rejoined for the port of destination, as described
of the NE monsoon, from December to the begin- below.
ning of March. After tl1e middle of March the winds From WP IN313, if the intention is to sail to
are less constant and there is a higher percentage Djibouti, course should be set for WP IN316, in the
of calms in ilie Arabian Sea. Towards the·end of the Gulf of Tadjoura. The route goes south of the
NE monsoon choosing the best route through this Musha Islands and then turns SW towards the port
area becomes crucial as there is an increased chance of Djibouti. The recommended anchorage is off the
of contrary winds close to Socotra Island. In April Djibouti Yacht Club whose facilities may be used
it is advisable to steer for a point 50 miles south of by visiting boats. Entry formalities are completed
Socotra so as to be able to clear the Horn of Africa in the nearby commercial harbour.
comfortably as the current is also setting north From WP IN313, boats bound for Aden ~hould
towards Socotra at this time. sail for WP 1N317, at the entrance into the port of
From WP IN311, outside Cochin Harbour, the Aden. A marked channel leads into the Inner
route runs due west through the Nine Degree Harbour, where yachts anchor off the customs
Channel staying south of Kalpeni and Suheli Par. dock. Boats are normaUy met on arrival by a port
Occasionally boats have been able to stop briefly control launch and directed to the anchorage.
in the latter, which is an atoll with a well protect- A direct passage across the North Indian Ocean
ed lagoon. From WP IN312 a course can be set for is virtually impossible during the SW monsoon,
IN313, 30 miles NE of Socotra Island. After the mid- from May to September, when the only alternative
dle of March, if SW winds are experienced near the is to make a long detour south of the equator via
island, it may be necessary to pass south of Socotra the Chagos Archipelago. This route passes NE of
and between it and the African coast. Jn such a case, the Seychelles and recrosses the equator in about
from WP IN312 a course should be set for WP longitude 53 "OO'E. See also route IT16 (page 388):
IN314 south of Socotra. Having sailed past Cape

378
 IN30 ROUTES IN THE ARABIAN SEA

IN32 Oman to Red Sea

Excellent sailing conditions prevail during the NE transitional period between monsoons, the area is
monsoon, January and February being the best subject to tropical storms.
months to head for the Red Sea. Because of a high- From WP JN321 , three miles SW of Raysut, an
er percentage of calms near land , the initial initial course is set for WP IN322, south of Ras
course from Raysut should lead offshore. The pro- Fartak. The route runs paraHel to the coast all the
portion of SW winds increases towards the end of way to Aden as far as WP IN323 in the approach-
March w hen a contrary current also starts making es to Aden. Boats bound for Djibouti will contin-
itself felt parallel to the Arabian coast. The passage ue to WP IN324 south of the Musha Islands in the
should not be undertaken during the SW monsoon, Gulf of Tadjoura, in the approaches to the port of
when strong headwinds make it almost impossi- . Djibouti. See IN31 for further details on both Aden
ble to reach the Red Sea along this route. During the and Djibouti.

IN33 Red Sea to Sri Lanka

I
II

379
ROUTES IN THE NORTH INDIAN OCEA N

Choosing the time for this passage presents a major Gulf of Aden. From WP IN331 south of the Musha
dilemma, as the cyclone free months of July and Islands in the Gulf ofTadjoura, a course can be set
August also hav·e the highest frequency of gales. In for WP IN333 north ofSocotra. Boats leaving from
fact the frequency of gales in July just to the east of Aden take their departure from WP IN332 and use
Socotra is similar to that off Cape Horn in summer. the same intermediate WP IN333 north of Socotra.
As passages across the Arabian Sea can be Sri Lanka can be reached through either the Nine
extremely rough at the height of the SW monsoon, or Eight Degree Channels, which are separated by
only September offers the prospect of a reasonably Minicoy Island. Whichever channel is used it
comfortable voyage. The transition periods should be approached with caution, especially at
between the two monsoons cannot be recom- night or in the thick weather which is sometimes
mended either because of the risk of cyclones, associated with the SW monsoon.
although an April passage has a good chance of fair Landfall will be made at WP IN336, just outside
winds and a lower risk factor. Galle Harbour, from where Western Channel
The course from either Djibouti or Aden passes leads to the small port in the NE part of the bay.
well to the north of Socotra to avoid the strong Boats are usually met by a local agent whose ser-
west-setting current along the African coast in the vices are necessary to complete entry formalities.

IN34 Red Sea to Maldives

Directions are very similar to those for route IN33 ital Male, the route continues east to pass north of
and a course for Male, the capital and port of entry Toddu Atoll. At WP IN344, it turns SE towards WP
for the Maldives, should only be set after having IN345 at the entrance into Wadu Channel. This
passed well to the north of Socotra. The low lying leads to Male, which is reached through Male
Maldives should be approached with extreme cau- Passage. In good light it may be possible to reach
tion because of the strong current that sets on to the Male by entering North Male Atoll through one of
islands during the SW monsoon. It is indeed cru- its western passes. The Port Authority should be
cial that WP IN344 is reached in the morning so that contacted on VHF channel 16 on arrival. As Male
the remaining distance to Male can be covered dur- is the only official port of entry, boats are not
ing daylight hours. allowed to stop anywhere before having cleared in
From WP IN342 north of Socotra, the route leads there.
to WP IN343, north of Ari Atoll. To reach the cap-

380
 16
TRANS EQUATORIAL
ROUTES IN THE
INDIAN OCEAN
rom Indonesia in the east to Kenya in the west, turies the Arab dhows set a perfect example of how
F the equator is crossed by a variety of routes
used mostly by northbound boats. Because of the
to use the prevailing weather conditions to best
advantage. Although their trading routes do not
finely matched seasons in the two hemispheres of always coincide with those used by modern
the Indian Ocean, with careful planning it is pos- cruising yachts, today's sailors have much to learn
sible to cruise throughout the year, always having from those skilled mariners, some of whom are still
the benefit of favourable weather. Over the cen- plying the coasts of Arabia and East Africa.

IT10 NORTHBOUND ROUTES

ITll Bali to Singapore 382
IT12 Bali to Sri Lanka 384
IT13 Cocos Keeling to Sri Lanka 385
IT14 Chagos to Sri Lanka 386
IT15 Chagos to Maldives 387
IT16 Seychelles to Red Sea 388
IT17 Kenya to Red Sea 389
IT18 Kenya to Sri Lanka 390
For centuries Arab dhows have sailed from the stops inside the reefs and various offshore islands.
Persian Gulf to the East African coast to trade, sail- Boats intending to set off on a -northbound
ing down on one monsoon and back on the other, transequatorial passage should time this to take
although in present day Kenya and Tanzania they best advantage of the monsoons on either side of
are becoming a rare sight. The SE trade winds blow the equator. From December to March, when the
steadily from April to October and rarely exceed ITCZ moves south, the E monsoon is deflected
20 knots. The wide band of the northbound current across the equator to a give a NW flow .of wind.
runs close to the shore and can be augmented by This NW monsoon is not so reliable and brings
these SE trade winds so as to reach 4 knots. rain. It blows most strongly in January and
Therefore it makes sense to plan any northbound February. This period is also the cyclone season in
passages to coincide with this season. During the the South Indian Ocean, but these storms normal-
NE monsoon, when winds from the NE and E pre- . ly form south of Chagos and move in a southerly
vail, this current is slacker. Along the Tanzanian direction. They almost never track north towards
coast it is possible to take an inshore route that the equator.

381
TRANSEQ UATORI A L ROUTES I N THE IND.IAN OCEAN

Transequatorial routes in the Indian Ocean

IT11 Bali to Singapore

382
 - - ,

IT10 NORTHBOUND ROUTES

There are two main routes that can be sailed from the Bali Sea at night and arrive at WP IT112 the fol-
Bali to Singapore, either direct through the lowing morning. An alternative way to reach the
Karimata Strait (ITllA) or by the more indirect Java Sea, especially at night, is to use Sapudi Strait,
route via Bangka and Riouw Straits (!TUB). The east of Madura Ialand, which has lights on Sapudi
first route is faster and can be done nonstop as it island itself.
is mostly offshore, the second route is slower and Having reached the Java Sea the route continues
offers the possibility of overnight stops if the winds in a NW direction and passes east of Bawean Island
are not favourable. The second route is not rec- through WP IT113 to WP IT114 at the entrance into
ommended for those who do not possess an Karimata Strait, east of Borneo (Kalimantan), a
Indonesian cruising permit. For both routes the best wide body of water encumbered by many unlit
time .is during the South Indian SE monsoon and reefs. The position of some of these do not neces-
the North Indian SW monsoon, between May and sarily agree with GPS observations, so the area
September. During the transitional months of April, should be treated with great caution. Strong cur-
October, and early November, winds are more vari- rent~ of up to 2 knots have been reported, their
able and calms frequent. During these months there direction depending on the monsoon and setting
is also a high frequency of rain squalls, often of tor- predominantly N or NvV from May to September i
rential proportions, that make it difficult to anchor and S or SE from November to March. The route i
I
every night in safety and make the offshore route goes to WP IT115 before the course is altered for
more attractive. WP IT116 halfway between Ontario and Flying Fish
On leaving Benoa the course leads NE through reefs. The route continues in a NW direction and
the Lombok Strait where extremely strong currents crosses the equator at WP IT117. Bintan Island is
can be experienced. During the SE monsoon the passed to the east by making for WP IT118 before
main direction of the currents is southerly, the course can be altered for Singapore Strait. The
although af certain times a favourable current sets area E and NE of Bintan should be passed in day-
NE along the east coast of Bali. This current occurs time as there are often fishing nets set up in those
approximately at the time of the moon's transit and waters. At night it is therefore advisable to stay fur-
lasts for two or three hours so it is worth timing a ther offshore.
departure for two hours before the transit and leave There is a choice of channels at the eastern
Benoa at slack water. entrance into the Singapore Strait. Coming from the
From WP IT110, outside Benoa Harbour, the off- SE, the most convenient is South Channel, between
shore route (!TUA) sets off in a NE direction the north coast of Bintan and Horsburgh Reef. To
through Selat Badung (Badung Channel), NW of reach it, from WP IT118 the course should be
Nusa Lembongan, as far as WP !Tlll, off Bali's altered for WP IT119. From this point, it is equal-
easternmost point. From there the route turns NW ly easy to pass through either South or Middle
to cross the Bali Sea to pass through the 10 mile Channel.
wide gap between Goagoa island and Karang Takat Route ITl1B leads through Bangka Strait, the nar-
Reef at WP IT112. As neither of these dangers are rows between Sumatra and Bangka islands.
lit, one should attempt to pass through this area Directions for reaching the Java Sea are similar to
during daylight. Bearing in mind the distances those given above. Once the Java Sea has been
involved, a good tactic is to leave Benoa around reached, from WP IT112 a course can be set for WP
noon so as to pass WP ITl11 before nightfall, cross IT1110, SE of Bawean Island. The route continues

383
TRANS EQUATORIAL RO UTES IN THE INDI AN OCEA N

in a NE direction to WP IT1111, in th!! approaches joins the direct route for the final approach to
to Bangka Strait. The direction of the wind in the Singapore through Riouw Strait. A slightly more
strait is usually parallel to the coast, although indirect route leads to Singapore from SW through
strong SW winds can be experienced towards the Durian Strait and Phillip Channel.
end of the SE monsoon. Because of the nature of the Boats arriving in Singapore from the SE may find
tidal currents in the strait, it is better to stay close it easier to go to the anchorage off the Changi Yacht
to the coast of Sumatra during the SE monsoon. Club, NE of Singapore Island, and complete entry
North of Bangka Strait it is possible to follow formalities from there. The alternative is the new
either a direct or an indirect route to Singapore. The Raffles Marina (1'20.53'N, 103 '38.22'E), on the west
former leads outside Lingga island to Riouw Strait coast of Singapore Island. Yet another option is to
and because it is easily navigable it is used by most go only as far as· the new Nongsa Marina on Bintan
boats. The indirect route follows the coast of Island.
Sumatra through Berhala and Pengelap Straits and

IT12 Bali to Sri Lanka

This is a more direct route to reach the North Indian longitude 95"E has been reached, as both contrary
Ocean than route IT11 and is used mainly by those winds and currents are more likely to be encoun-
who are on their way to the Red Sea and wish to tered closer to Sumatra. The transitional period from
avoid sailing via Singapore and the Malacca Strait. the SW to the NE monsoon provides the best con-
If the port of departure is Bali it is best to head imme- ditions for this route. If the passage is made at the
diately offshore and sail south of Java. In September height of the SW monsoon, all necessary westing
or early October the SE trade winds will provide should be made south of latitude 5 'S, as strong west-
favourable winds to about latitude 5 'S, but because erly winds will make it very difficult to reach Sri
winds tend to be more consistent further south it is Lanka on a direct course. During the SW monsoon
advisable not to set a direct course for Sri Lanka until route IT12A should be sailed.

384
f
!
ITlO NORTHBOUN D RO UTES

From WP IT121, south of Benoa harbour, the especially south of the equator. If such a passage
route runs south of both Bali and Java to WP IT122. during the NE monsoon cannot be avoided (route
If SE winds persist, one should continue in the !Tl2B), northing should be made in the lee of
same direction to WP IT123. Depending on weath- Sumatra by sailing not more than 50 miles west of
er conditions, the equator should be crossed as far the offlying islands. From WP IT122 SW of Java, the
west as possible and in any case not sooner than course should be altered for WP IT126 so as to fol-
meridian 85'E has been reached (WP IT124). low a course parallel to the west coast of Sumatra.
From this point a direct course can be set for Galle The NW course parallel to Sumatra may be con-
and WP IT125, south of Galle harbour which is tinued after the equator has been crossed at WP
entered through the Central Channel. The town of IT127. The course should be changed for Sri Lanka
Galle is on the west side of the large bay, whereas only after favourable conditions have been found
the small port, where entry formalities are com- north of the equator. Directions for route IT13
pleted, is in the NE corner in Magalle. should also be consulted as they refer to the same
This passage is not recommended during the NE area of the Indian Ocean.
monsoon when mostly contrary winds will be met,

IT13 Cocos Keeling to Sri Lanka

[
t
l
t
Ir Although this passage can be made at any time of erratic currents between latitude 3 'Sand the equa-
the year, most people who undertake it intend to tor. Similar conditions were experienced north of
i continue their voyage towards the Red Sea and the equator all the way to Sri Lanka.
! therefore plan to arrive in Sri Lanka on the eve of
the NE monsoon. For this reason the timing of this
The most difficult aspect of this route is the fact
that it crosses three different currents, none of
l
~
L
passage should be carefully calculated, because
passages later in the year risk encountering
northerly winds north of the equator. It is therefore
which can be predicted with complete a.ccuracy.
The route runs first through the west-setting South
Equatorial Current, its effect being probably can-
t advisable to make this passage while the SW mon-
soon is still in force in the North Indian Ocean,
celled out on nearing the equator by the east-set-
ting Equatorial Countercurrent. The currents

fi: September probably being the best month. Boats

that have made this passage in the second half of
October encountered light variable winds and
north of the equator depend on the state of the
monsoon, setting east during the SW monsoon,
I west during the NE monsoon. However, it does
t 385
t
TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES I N THE INDIAN OCEAN

appear that the combined set of the currents is usu- make for WP IT132, then sail north along the 80 'E
ally to the east and all boats making this passage meridian until the equator is crossed at WP
have found themselves further east than expected. IT133. From this point a course can be set for WP
Yet another factor to be borne in mind on this route IT134 south of Galle harbour.
is that it crosses the doldrums, although the belt of If this passage is made during the NE monsoon,
calms or light winds between the SE trade winds from December to March (route IT13B), as much
and the monsoon prevailing north of the equator northing as possible should be made soon after
is not too wide and sometimes the wind systems leaving Cocos Keeling so as to cros.s the equator in
merge into each other almost without a break. about longitude 90.E (WP IT135) and approach
During August and September the SE trade winds Sri Lanka from a better angle. Having crossed
reach as far north as latitude s·s. Leaving South the equator, a direct course for Sri Lanka should
Cocos Keeling from WP IT131 the recommended only be set when favourable winds have been
procedure at this time of year (route IT13A) is to encountered.

IT14 Chagos to Sri Lanka

The strategy for this passage depends entirely on ly from south to SW and finally west.
the state of the monsoon north of the equator. Taking as departure point WP !Tl 41 NE of Peros
During the SW monsoon, from May to Sepember, Banhos, the course stays east of the Maldives and
it is probably best to try and sail a direct course for crosses the equator at WP IT142. The course can
Sri Lanka and only compensate for the set of the then be altered for WP IT1 43 south of Galle from
current after having crossed the equator (route where the harbour is entered through Central
IT14A). Attention should be paid to the strong cur- Channel.
rents that set around the northern part of the During the NE monsoon (route IT14B) it is essen-
Chagos Archipelago. Although the winds can be tial to make as much easting as possible south of
expected to be light at the beginning of the passage, the equator which should be crossed in about lon-
the effect of the monsoon should make itself felt on gitude 82 'E (WP IT144), so as to approach Sri Lanka
nearing the equator with winds veering gradual- from slightly east of south.

386
 ·IT10 NORTHBOUND R OUTES

IT15 Chagos t o Maldives

The most favourable sailing conditions for this course should pass east or west of the islands. As
route can be expected during the SW monsoon the currents set towards the islands, it is probably
when southerly winds predominate south of the safer to sail in their lee, west during the N E mon-
equator. During the changeover period winds are soon and east during the SW monsoon. At all times,
much lighter and there are long periods of calms. allowance should be made for the currents and also
During the NE monsoon the winds south of the the fact that their set does not necessarily agree
equator are mostly NW. Currents in this region can with the direction of the monsoon.
be very strong and their set is difficult to predict, To pass east of the islands (route IT15A), the
particularly in the transitional period between equator should be crossed at WP IT152. The route
monsoons. The strongest current during the SW continues due north to WP IT153 east of Felidhe
monsoon is the Indian Monsoon Current, which Atoll. It then swings NW to WP IT154, at the
sets strongly east on both sides of the equator. entrance into Male Passage that leads into North
From WP IT151 NE of Peros Banhos, the course Male Atoll and the capital itself.
is almost due north and there are no dangers en During the NE monsoon, the islands should be
route until the Maldives archipelago is approached. passed on their west side (route IT15B) by setting
The capital Male is at the southern extremity of an initial course to cross the equator at WP IT155.
North Male Atoll and as this is the only port of The course turns almost due north te WP IT156
entry, all vessels must complete entry formalities from where the channel is taken between North
there. This considerably complicates matters as N ilandhe and Ari Atolls. The route continues in a
most of the archipelago has to be crossed to reach NE direction to WP IT157 at the entrance into Wadu
Male. For this reason, boats occasionally stop at Channel between South and North Male Atolls.
Addu Atoll, the southernmost of the Maldives and The capital Male is at the southern end of North
the only one south of the equator. Male Atoll and is reached through one of the pass-
Depending on the monsoon, to reach Male the es leading through the reef.

387
TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE INDIAN OCEAN

IT16 Seychelles to Red Sea

The best time to make this passage is towards the ommended period (route IT16A) should follow a
end of the SW monsoon, in September or early NW course on leaving the Seychelles so as to cross
October, when the strength of the winds begins to the equator at WP 11161. If conditions allow it,
subside in the NW part of the Indian Ocean. At this more westing should be made while south, before
time of year the SE trade winds reach as far north the equator is crossed. This avoids the strong cur-
as the equator. From there the winds become grad- rent that sets SE during the transitional period
ually SW and blow with increasing force as one between monsoons. From the equator the course
approaches Socotra Island. This area is notorious can be altered for WP 11162 from where the route
for its high frequency of gales during the SW mon- runs parallel to the African coast. Along this coast
soon and this is the reason why an earlier passage, the Somali Current sets strongly to the north and
during July or August, is not recommended. Even can reach rates as high as 170 miles per day in the
towards the end of the SW monsoon winds can be area south of Socotra Island. During the transitional
very strong and this fact combined with the strong period, the SE trade winds blow as far as the equa-
currents usually produce rough seas around the tor and favourable winds can be held into the Gulf
Horn of Africa. of Aden. In October winds in that area will be SW
Taking one's departure from WP IT160, off North or S. However, the passage must not be left too late,
Point on Mahe Island, boats sailing during the rec- because NE winds start to predominate north of the

388
 ITlO NORTHBOUND ROUTES

equator after ~e second half of October. Thick haze most boats tend to make this passage in the early
and poor visibility make navigation hazardous part of. the year (route IT16B). If the passage is
along the African coast and a safe distance should attempted during the !\TE monsoon, sufficient east-
be kept off the coast both at night and in day time. ing should be made south of the equator so that the
From WP 1Tl62 a course can be set for WP IT163, NE winds will be met at a better angle. Because of
off Ras Hafun. From there the course turns almost the strong N or NW winds that will be met on leav-
due north to WP IT164, NE of Cape Guardafui. ing the Seychelles, a NE course should be sailed so
Having reached the Horn of Africa, the route pass- that the equator is crossed as far east as longitude
es SW of Socotra towards WP ITl 65, in the Gulf of 66 "E or even 68'E. The ground lost to the east will
Aden. If the intention is to call at Djibouti, from WP be made up later when a better sailing angle will
IT165 a course can be set for WP IT166, in the Gulf ensure good speeds once under the full influence .
otTadjoura. The route passes south of the Musha of the NE monsoon. However, it may not be always
Islands and then turns SW towards the port of necessary to make so much easting south of the
Djibouti avoiding the various dangers, all of which equator and boats that have made the passage
are marked by buoys. The recommended anchor- towards the end of the NE monsoon, in late
age (11 "36.l 'N,43 •08.l'E) is off the Djibouti Yacht February or March, have been able to sail a more
Club whose facilities may be used by visiting boats. northerly course after leaving the Seychelles and
The various authorities are in the nearby com- have crossed the equator around longitude 63 °E
mercial harbour and must be visited to complete (WP IT168). From the equator the course turns NW
entry formalities. to pass, if conditions allow it, on the windward side
From WP IT165, boats bound for Aden should of Socotra. During the NE monsoon winds in the
alter course for WP IT167, at the entrance into the Gulf of Aden are mostly easterly.
port of Aden. A marked channel leads into the After the equator has been crossed, and if suffi-
Inner Harbour, where yachts anchor off the cus- cient easting has been made, it should be possible
toms dock. Boats are normally met on arrival by a to set a course that passes east of Socotra through
port control launch and directed to the anchorage. WP IT169. If this proves impossible, or not conve-
Although better conditions may be experienced nient if the equator had been crossed too far to the
during the SW monsoon, the time of arrival in the west, a course should be set for WP IT164, NE of
Red Sea may not agree with most people's plans, Cape Guardafui, to pass between Socotra and the
unless one is prepared to spend the coming win- Horn of Africa. From there similar directions apply
ter in the Red Sea and only reach the Mediterranean as for the alternative route described above.
the following spring. Mainly for these reasons,

IT17 Kenya to Red Sea

J
',
)·,

389
 TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE INDIAN OCE AN

This classic route of the Arab traders benefits from seas. Although strong, the winds will be favourable
favourable winds throughout the SW monsoon, as far as the Horn of Africa, but in the Gulf of Aden
from May to September. However, as the winds strong westerly winds will make it very difficult to
often attain gale force during the months of July reach Bab el Mandeb.
and August in the vicinity of Socotra and the Horn If this passage is made during the NE monsoon
of Africa, the voyage is more comfortable either at it is better to wait until the end of March, so as to
the beginning or at the end of the SW monsoon. arrive north of the equator at the change of mon-
Good passages on this route have been made in soons. On leaving Mombasa, easting should be
September, when. the winds are favourable both made south of the equator, which should be crossed
south and north of the equator and the strong · in about longitude 53°E. The best tack should be
Somali Current also gives a considerable boost to sailed from there northwards so as to pass between
daily runs. The course runs parallel to the African Socotra and Cape Guardafui.
coast, but because of the thick haze and poor vis- Boats making this passage at the optimum time,
ibility associated with the SW monsoon, particu- in late April or early May, on leaving Mombasa at
lar attention must be paid to navigation. The most WP IT171 should sail a course parallel to the coast
dangerous area is when approaching Ras Hafun, and cross the equator at WP IT172. Continuing par-
which has claimed several boats whose navigators allel to the coast, the route then passes through WP
'V had wrongly identified this headland . . IT173 to WP IT174, off Ras Hafun. From here the
:a The time of departure is critical, as the transi- course turns almost due north to WP !Tl 75, NE of
r tional period is very short and the NE monsoon can Cape Guardafui, to pass between Socotra and the
:hj· sometimes arrive· before the middle of October, Horn of Africa. Having passed the Horn of Africa,
o.~ when both winds and current change direction. the route enters the Gulf of Aden and makes for WP
,Alternatively, the passage can be made at the begin- IT176. From that point, boats bound for Djibouti

E
wl
ning of the SW monsoon, when winds might be
lighter. If the passage is made at the height of the
SW monsoon, in July or August, one must be pre-
should set a course for WP IT! 77 in the Bay of
Tadjoura. Those planning to stop in Aden should
alter course for WP IT178. See route IT16 for details

~j
pared to put up with very strong winds and· rough on Djibouti and Aden.

gs
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IT18 Kenya to Sri Lanka

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 IT20 SOUTHBOUND RO UTES

This is a route strictly for the SW monsoon, when Degree Channel, the course can be altered for WP
both winds and current will be favourable. On leav- IT185 at the entrance into Western Channel that
ing Mombasa at WP IT181, the route runs parallel leads into Galle harbour.
to the African coast to take full advantage of the During the recommended period there is no dan-
favourable current. After the equator is crossed at ger of cyclones in the southern part of the Arabian
WP IT182, the course can be altered for WP IT183. Sea. Route IN25 (page 375) gives directions for the
From there, a course can be set for WP IT184, north continuation of the route to Malaysia and
of Ihavandifullu Atoll, in the Eight Degree Channel Singapore. ·
north of the Maldives. Having cleared the Eight

IT20 SOUTHBOUND ROUTES

IT21 Maldives to Chagos 392
IT22 Red Sea to East Africa 392
IT23 Red Sea to South Indian Ocean 393

Trnnsequatorial routes in the Indian Ocean

f
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391
TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE INDIAN OCEAN

IT21 Maldives to Chagos

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The best time to make this passage is during the NE
monsoon when favourable winds will be found
both north and south of the equator. From May to
made during the NE monsoon, the recommended
route passes to the west of the islands.
Having left Male through Wadu Channel, from
t
November the predominant direction of the winds WP 1T211, the course turns SW to pass through the
is southerly and even during the transitional peri- channel between North Nilandhe and Ari Atolls.
od boats have experienced a high proportion of From WP IT212 the cours~ turns Sand crosses the
southerly winds, so the only time when one can be equator in WP IT213. From there, the course con-
sure of fair winds is at the height of the NE mon- tinues almost due south to WP IT214, north of
soon. Permission must be obtained from the Peros Banhos in the Chagos Archipelago.
authorities in Male if one wishes to visit the south- Diego Garcia, the main island of the group, is a
ern Maldives and possibly clear out at Ad~u, the military base leased by the British government to
southernmost atoll of the group. the USA and a stop in that island is only permit- I'
T
Depending on the monsoon, the Maldives will be ted in an emergency. However, boats can stop in t
passed to the east or west. Because all islands are most other islands of the Chagos Archipelago,
low and there are only a few navigational lights, Peros Banhos and the Salomon Islands being the l
navigation in the area is very difficult, the situation most convenient stops for those arriving from the
being compounded by the strong currents that north. The recommended anchorage at Peros
sweep through the archipelago. For this reason, it
is probably safer to sail in the lee of the islands. As
Banhos is in the lee of Fouquet Island, on the south
side of the large lagoon.
1
it is assumed that the passage to Chagos will be [
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IT22 Red Sea to East Africa

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392
 IT20 SOUTHBOUND ROUTES

Because Kenya and other points along the east IT221, a direct course leads to WP IT222, off the
coast of Africa are easier to reach during the NE Hom of Africa, which is rounded by setting course
monsoon, passages to that area should be planned for WP IT223, off Cape Guardafui. From there.the
for that time. The major difficulty usually occurs course goes due south to WP IT224 off Ras Hafun
soon after the Red Sea has been left behind, when and then runs parallel to the African coast passing
consistent easterly winds make it difficult to get out through WP IT225 and crossing the equator at WP
of the Gulf of Aden. Once the Horn of Africa has IT226. A first port of entry into Kenya is at Lamu.
been weathered, favourable winds and current The other two official ports of entry are Malindi
ensure a fast sail along the east coast of Africa. For (3 "13'S, 40 "07'E) and Mombasa (4 "04'S, 39"41 'E).
this reason, southbound passages through the Red During the SW monsoon the coast of Africa can
Sea should take place in the autumn, so that the only be reached by taking a roundabout route via
Gulf of Aden is crossed at the change of seasons, the Seychelles. Having passed north of Socotra, the
in late October or early November. However, arriv- course leads SE and crosses the equator as far west
ing too early off the Horn of Africa carries the risk as the winds will permit. Having met the SE trade
of the NE monsoon not yet being established. It is winds between latitudes 2 "Sand 4 "S, the course can
therefore a matter of weighing up the disadvan- be shaped to pass north of the Seychelles and on to
tages of contrary winds in the Gulf of Aden against Kenya. Alternatively a stop can be made in the
the advantages of favourable wfods and current Seychelles and East Africa reached later. See also
along the coast of East Africa. routes IS42 and IS43 (pages 415 and 416).
Having passed through Bab el Mandeb, from WP

IT23 Red Sea to South Indian Ocean

393
 TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE INDIAN OCE AN

Although most yacht traffic in the Red Sea is from The SW monsoon provides better conditions for
south to north, every year a number of boats sail reaching the further island groups in the South
to various destinations in the South Indian Ocean Indian Ocean, such as Chagos. On the route from
by this more direct route from Europe and the the Red Sea to Chagos and Mauritius (route IT23B),
Mediterranean. easting is made north of the equator, which is
Similar considerations apply for the first part of crossed between longitudes 70 'E and 72 'E. Landfall
the voyage as far as the Horn of Africa as in Chagos is made at WP 11'239, north of Peros
described in route IT22. Passages to the Seychelles Banhos. Southbound from Chagos the same direc-
during the NE monsoon (route IT23A) benefit from tions apply as for route !S36 (page 412). A
favourable conditions once the Hom of Africa has September passage from the Red Sea would also
been left behind. Therefore the early part of the benefit from more favourable sailing conditions for
voyage should coincide with the transition period the next leg to Mauritius, provided it takes place
to avoid contrary winds in the Gulf of Aden. From before the start of the cyclone season in the South
I WP IT233, off Cape Guardafui, the direct route Indian Ocean. For boats which have reached the
I crosses the equator at WP IT234. The next WP 11'235 South Indian Ocean towards the end of the year, the
I lies halfway between Bird and Denis, the north- next leg of the voyage from either the Seychelles or
·I ernmost Seychelles Islands. From there, a course Chagos to destinations further south should be
i can be set for WP IT236, three miles north of the postponed until after the end of the cyclone season
I entrance into Port Victoria. Port Control should be in the South Indian Ocean. See also route I541 (page
I contacted on VHF channel 16. Arriving yachts must 414).
anchor 3 cables north of Victoria lighthouse.
 17
WINDS AND ·
CURRENTS OF THE
SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN

he weather in the tropical zone of the South to September when the SW monsoon is in force
T Indian Ocean is greatly influenced by the
advance of the North Indian monsoon south of the
north of the equator.

equator during the northern winter and its corre-

sponding retreat during summer. Outside of the The Northwest monsoon
tropics the weather follows a normal pattern. From November to March, when the ITCZ is situ-
ated south of the equator, the NE monsoon of the
North Indian Ocean is drawn into the southern
The Southeast trade winds hemisphere. Because of the rotation of the earth it
These winds blow on the equatorial side of the is deflected to the left and becomes a NW wind in
counterclockwise circulation of air that exists the northern part of the South Indian Ocean. Winds
around the area of high pressure situated in about are generally light and vary considerably both in
latitude 30'5. Compared to the other oceans, the direction and strength during this period. The
South Indian high rarely consists of a single cell and weather is often squally and unsettled.
often contains a succession of east moving anticy-
clonic systems. The trade winds blow on their Monsoons of the Indonesian
north side and form a wide belt that stretches across
the ocean from Western Australia to Madagascar
Archipelago
and the coast of Africa. Between July and The weather pattern of the Indonesian.Archipelago
September this belt spreads over a very large area is more seasonal than that of the adjacent areas,
and becomes continuous with the SE trade winds which are dominated by the two monsoons. The SE
of the South Pacific. The entire belt moves north monsoon generally lasts from April to September
and south throughout the year, its northern limit and is replaced by a NW monsoon from October till
varying from latitude 2'5 in August to latitude 12'5 March. Though neither of them is very strong, the
in January. The fluctuation of the southern limit is SE monsoon is the more consistent both iii strength
less pronounced, from 24 'Sin August to 30'5 in and in direction, particularly during July and
January. August when it becomes continuous with the SE
The average strength of these trade winds is trade winds of the South Pacific and Indian
between 10 and 15 knots in summer and 15 to 20 Oceans. During the NW monsoon, the direction of
kno\s in winter. Over the central region, the wind the winds is predominantly NW, although their
blows steadily from SE or ESE, especially from May strength and consistency diminish further south.

395
WINDS AND CURREN TS O F THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN

South of latitude 4 ·s the weather is often squally in direction and strength. Particularly in the
alternating with calms, variable winds and rain. higher latitudes of the Roaring Forties and further
south, the frequency of gales is high, the weather
Variables cold, and the seas rough.
On the polar side of the SE trade wind belt there is
an area of light variable winds which coincides
Tropical storms
with the high pressure region. The axis of this high The cyclone season of the South Indian Ocean lasts
is situated in about latitude 30'5 in winter, moving from November to May, although. December to
further sou th towards latitude 35'5 during the April are considered to be the dangerous months,
summer. The weather varies greatly within this as cyclones occur only rarely in November and
zone, which has similar characteristic's to the Horse May. The month with the highest frequency of
Latitudes of the Atlantic Ocean. storms is January.
The willy-willies that affect the coasts of Wand
NW Australia occur mostly between December and
Westerlies April. They can extend as far as the Timer Sea and
Westerly winds prevail on the polar side of the Arafura Sea, the latter being also subject to South
South Indian Ocean high pressure region. The Pacific cyclones that occasionally hit Northern
almost continuous passage of depressions from Australia. Their season is from December to
west to east causes the wind to vary considerably March.

Equatorial Current
~
,..___

Southern Ocean Current

Indian Ocean currents - SW monsoon ·i

I
396
 WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN

Currents The Agulhas Current contains not just the

waters o.f the Mozambique Current but also those
The main surface circulation of the South Indian of the southern branch of the Equatorial Current.
Ocean is counterclockwise but because of the mon- The two currents meet off the coast of Africa in
soons of the North Indian Ocean there is only one a bout latitude 28 'S from where the combined cur-
Equatorial Current. The west flowing Equatorial rent sets strongly SW before it passes the Cape of
Current always lies south of the equator, its north- Good Hope into the South Atlantic. One part of the
ern limit varying between latitudes 6 'S and lO'S Agulhas Current branches off to the SE where it
depending on longitude and season. The limit is joins the Southern Ocean Current. The south side
nearer the equator during the SW monsoon of the of the main circulation of the South Indian Ocean
North Indian Ocean. On the western side of the is formed by this current which sets in an E and NE
ocean, the northern part of the current flows past direction. The eastern side of this counterclockwise
Madagascar until it reaches the coast of Africa. The movement is formed by the West Australian
current splits in two, one branch following the coast Current, which sets in a NW direction along the
in a northerly direction, the other setting south into west coast of Australia. Eventually it passes into
the Mozambique Channel. This becomes the the Equatorial Current, thus completing this giant
Mozambique Current which further south alters its cycle.
name to that of the Agulhas Current.

397
 18
ROUTES IN THE
SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN
efore the Red Sea route became the more pop- most important factor is to make the passage
B ular way to complete a circumnavigation, most
boats used to sail around the Cape of Good Hope
around the Cape of Good Hope at the most
favourable time, which is during the summer
on their way to the Atlantic. Nowadays the maj- months, from December to March. Such a timing
ority of cruising boats use the northern route and means that the crossing of the South Indian
this has resulted in a considerable drop in the num- Ocean takes place during the safe season, when no
ber of boats sailing through the South Indian cyclones can be expected south of the equator. The
Ocean. Occasionally, boats sailing south through cyclone season in the South Indian Ocean lasts from
the Red Sea make their way into the South Indian November to April and passages during this time
Ocean, but very few go further than Kenya or the should be avoided. Although cyclones have been
Seychelles. recorded in other months too, notably the cyclone
For those who are on a world voyage and plan of July 1871, which originated south of Sumatra, it
to take the southern route, there are various factors Is generally agreed that May to October is a per-
to be taken into account at the planning stages. The fectly safe time to cross the South Indian Ocean. As

eo•e

1522
2565

20'$

40'$

eo•e

ISIO Routes from Australia and Indonesia

398
 1510 ROUTES FROM AUSTRALIA

the South Atlantic is free of cyclones, the onward knocked down, pooped, and even lost on this
voyage can start off from Cape Town at practical- stretch, so it is well worth considering the alter-
ly any time of the year although, as stated earlier, natives before becoming committed to this route.
better weather will be found in summer, from Nevertheless, with due care and access to weath-
December to March. Because of the conveniently er information, any well found boat should be able
placed island groups in the South Indian Ocean, to pass even this hurdle. Some useful tips are given
most boats that sail this route do it in stages by call- in the relevant sections, mainly in routes IS52 and
ing at Christmas Island, Cocos Keeling, Mauritius, IS63 (pages 420 and 427).
Reunion, and finally Durban. If more time is avail- The island groups scattered across the centre of
able a worthwhile detour can be made to the the Indian Ocean continue to attract a number of
Chagos Archipelago. cruising boats every year, although their number
A warning has to be given regarding the leg does not appear to be increasing. On the other
around South Africa. Several circumnavigators hand, more boats are visiting the east coast of
have encountered the worst weather of their voy- Africa, cruising boats being now welcomed or at
age along this route where a sudden SW gale can least tolerated in most African countries bordering
create extremely dangerous conditions when it hits on the Indian Ocean.
the south flowing Agulhas current. Boats have been

1510 ROUTES FROM AUSTRALIA

ISll Torres Strait to Darwin 400
IS12 Torres Strait to Bali 400
IS13 Darwin to Ambon 402
IS14 Darwin to Bali 402
1815 Darwin to Christmas Island 403
1816 Western Australia to Cocos Keeling 404
IS17 Western Australia to Bass Strait 405
Most boats on a world voyage only touch Northern Northern Australia are under the influence of the
I
two monsoons. The SE monsoon, lasting from May
Australia briefly before sailing on to Bali and
beyond. Although a cruising permit is required for until September, has the more pleasant weather as I
those wishing to visit the Indonesian archipelago, well as favourable winds. The NW monsoon coin-
it is usually possible to make a stop in Benoa on the cides with the cyclone season in the tropical part
island of Bali, where the authorities appear to be of the South Indian Ocean, and for this reason few .!
I more tolerant, although some people have had to
pay a fine for stopping there without a permit.
Benoa is therefore a favourite destination for most
cruising boats stay in the areas affected by tropi-
cal storms between late November and March.
During that time it may be tempting to sail to the
I
I
· boats heading west, both those intending to con-
tinue their voyage through the North Indian Ocean
southern part of Australia, which is und.er the influ-
ence of westerly winds for most of the year, but
and those taking the southern route via the Cape very few cruising boats venture that way.
I
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of Good Hope. The routes starting off from

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399
ROUTES I N THE SOUTH INDIA N OCEAN

1511 Torres Strait to Darwin

During the SE monsoon, from the middle of April Australia. From that point the course can be altered
to the end of September or early October, winds on for WP IS113 to pass through Dundas and Clarence
this route are mostly favourable. To reach Darwin Straits. Because of the strong tidal sets and near
there is a choice of either taking a short cut through impossibility of clearing the straits in one daylight
the Van Diemen Gulf or by sailing around the west period, this route is not recommended. Those who
of Bathurst Island. Because of the strong tidal are taking it must allow for the strong currents,
streams in Dundas and Clarence Straits, and the which usually set either north or south.
difficult navigation in the approaches to Darwin, The route around both Melville and Bathurst
the roundabout route is often quicker, altl)ough it Islands, although longer, is recommended and is the
is longer. .Those who have more time available route most commonly used. If tl1is offshore route is
might prefer to cover the entire distance from the taken, from WP IS112 a course can be set for WP
Torres Strait to Darwin in daily stages as there are ISl 14, NW of Bathurst Island. The course should be
plenty of good anchorages from Cape Arnhem changed again for WP IS115, off Cape Fourcroy, and
onward. finally altered for WP 15116 at the start of the main
Having reached the Arafura Sea, the route to shipping channel into Darwin. If arriving from out-
Darwin is the saine as that for boats which have fol- side Australia, boats are required to give at least
lowed the inshore route from North Queensland. three hours notice by contacting Darwin Port
From WP IS111, west of Thursday Island, at the Authority on VHF channel 16 or HF 2182 kHz.
western end of the Prince of Wales Channel, a west- Because of the large tidal range, the easiest place to
erly course is set which passes close to the north of come alongside is Fishermen's Wharf and this
Booby Island. By setting a course for WP 15112 the should be requested when arranging clearance.
route avoids all dangers off the north coast of

1512 Torres Strait to Bali

400
 1810 ROUTES FROM AUSTRALIA

For most people the timing of this passage is cru- Reef. For westgoing boats it is mostly favourable
cial for the later stages of their voyage. Most boats both east and west of Ashmore Reef. West of
bound for the South Indian Ocean pass through the Ashmore Reef the westerly set can reach 2 knots.
Torres Strait between June and August when the A weaker countercurrent, of up to half a knot, may
best sailing conditions can be expected on this make itself felt for a few hours every d ay. Further
route. After the Arafura Sea has been crossed, the west, the currents in the Lombok Strait run at con-
same directions apply as for those setting off from siderable rates and can produce dangerous ~on­
Darwin (route IS14). lf one is too late in the season, ditions in the approaches to Benoa harbour when
the best way to avoid encountering a cyclone en a strong wind is blowing against the current.
route is by sailing along the north coast of the During the SE monsoon, the main direction of the
southern Indonesian islands where cyclones are not current is southerly.
known to occur. Boats bound for Singapore and the From WP IS121, west of Thursday Island, at the
North Indian Ocean have more time at their dis- western end of the Prince of Wales Channel, a west-
posal than those intending to sail around the Cape erly course can be set which passes close to the
of Good Hope, so they tend to pass through the north of Booby Island. By setting a course for WP
Torres Strait later, in September or even early IS122 the route avoids all dangers off the north
October. This means that they will have missed the coast of Australia. From there, the course should
best time for the passage to Bali and should be pre- be altered for WP IS123, 20 miles south of Roti
pared for light winds and calms on that section. Island, SW of Timor. This course stays well to the
The direct route from Torres Strait to Bali cross- north of the oil drilling area around 12 ·oo·s,
es both the Arafura and Timor Seas, where the 125 °00'E and also avoids the Hibernia and Ashmore
weather is dominated by the SE and NW mon- reefs. Karmt Shoals will be crossed en route, but the
soons. The trade winds blow strongly from May till area presents no known dangers. Making a detour
August from between SE and SSE and there is a through Roti Channel, between Roti and Timor, is
considerable sea. At the start and end of the season not recommended as currents are very strong.
the wind is often E backing to ENE. The SE mon- From WP IS123 the route then goes to WP IS124,
soon lasts until the end of October or even south of Dana Island. The course can then be
November, although SE winds are both lighter and altered for WP IS125, SW of Nusa Penida, in the
less consistent after the middle of September. It is approaches to Benoa harbour, Bali's main port. A
then followed by variable winds and calms. As the buoyed channel'leads through the reef, which is
NW monsoon coincides with the cyclone season, clearly visible in daylight. Entering at night is not
passages during this time are best avoided. The recommended as often the lights are not working
seasons in the Timor Sea follow almost the same and the leading lights can be confusing. Because of
pattern. Sometimes during the SE monsoon the air the strong currents it is preferable to spend the
is laden with dust brought from the Australian night out at sea, although with care it may be pos-
desert and visibility can be poor. In the vicinity of sible to anchor for the night near the landfall buoy
land the winds are generally influenced by the con- if there is not too much swell.
tour of the islands, while in the channels between The opening of the new Bali International
the islands the winds often blow with great force. Marina in 1994 has considerably improved dock-
The effect of the tidal streams is felt particular- ing facilities in Benoa harbour. The marina is locat-
ly in the area between Darwin and the Ashmore ed in the NE of the harbour. Anchoring space is

401
 R OUTES IN THE SOUTH I NDIAN O CEAN

rather limited and is restricted to the area south of the various offices lining the causeway leading into
the main wharf. Entry formalities are completed at Denpasar.

IS13 Darwin to Ambon

I
1·
This route is used mainly by boats taking part in expected for most of the way.
the ~nual Darwin to Ambon Race. ParticiJ2jllltl; in Taking as a departure point WP 15131 at the start
this event, which is organised by the Darwin of the main shipping channel into Darwin, a course
Sailing Club, automatically obtain the compulso- can be set for WP 15132 off Point Fourcroy. The
.ry cruising_permit for Indonesia ..For thOserri. pos- course then runs almost due north to WP 15133 in
session of a cruising permit, this route allows one Selat Bahar, the passage between Bahar and
to start exploring that vast archipelago in one of Sermata Islands. From there, the route across the
its most interesting parts. The best time to head Banda Sea avoids all dangers by setting course for
north is at the height of the SE monsoon, when the WP IS134 off Nusanive, at the entrance into Ambon
weather is settled and favourable winds can be (Yos Sudarso).

IS14 Darwin to Bali

402
 1510 ROUTES FROM AUSTRALIA

This route leads south of all Indonesian islands. The ing current from the Lombok Channel, separating
only dangers on the direct route are the Hibernia the islands of Lombok and Bali. The area abounds
and Ashmore reefs to the south of Timor Island. with ov.erfalls and rough breaking seas and can be
The passage can be broken at Ashmore Reef, espe- quite dangerous in strong winds, which fortunately
cially if the winds are light. The green reflection or do not occur too often. Also one should be prepared
blink of the shallow water can often be seen in the for ghost readings on the depth sounder with sud-
sky long before the actual reef is sighted. Currents den shallow readings caused by the different lay-
in the area are usually strong (see also route IS12). ers of water.
The best recommended anchorage is in the NW The best passages on this route are made during
corner of the reef, off a small cay. In good visibili- July and August, when the SE winds are most reg-
ty it is fairly easy to thread one's way among the ular. At the beginning and especially at the end of
coral heads. The reef is often visited by Indonesian the SE monsoon the winds become irregular, SSW
fishermen. winds sometimes being encountered in the Timor
From WP I5141, outside the entrance into the Sea in October. The south side of the Indonesian
main shipping channel into Darwin, the direct islands should not be approached until close to Bali
route (IS14A) leads to WP 15142. There are oil plat- on account of contrary currents. During April, and
forms in the area 12'00'5, 125'00'E, which should also in November and December, winds on this
be avoided if possible. The course should then be route are often light and there are prolonged peri-
altered for WP IS143 to pass halfway between ods of calms.
Hibernia and Ashmore Reefs . The alternative is to From outside Benoa, a buoyed channel leads
take a more northerly course on leaving Darwin so through the reef, which is clearly visible in day-
as to pass to the north of both the oilfields and the light. Entering the harbour at night is not recom-
above two reefs (route !514B). In this case from WP mended as often the lights are not working and the
15141 the course should be set for WP 15144. leading lights can be confusing. Because of the
Although the oil platforms are easily seen, both in strong currents it is preferable to spend the night
day time and at night, one should not pass too dose out at sea, although with care it may be possible to
to them so as not to get entangled in the anchoring anchor for the night near the landfall buoy if there
cables which stretch a long way away from the plat- is not too much swell. The opening of the new Bali
form and are not easily seen. From either of the International Marina in 1994 has considerably
above waypoints !Sl 43 or IS144 it is then a dear run improved docking facilities in Benoa harbour. The
to WP 15145, SW of Nusa Penida, in the approach- marina is located in the NE part of the harbour.
es to Benoa Harbour. Anchoring space is rather limited and is restricted
During the SE monsoon the prevailing winds to the area south of the main wharf. Clearance for-
both in the Arafura and Timar Seas are from the SE malities are completed at the various offices lining
or E. The only difficulty likely to be encountered the causeway leading to Denpasar. The marina
are the very strong currents in the Lombok Strait office may help with the clearance formalities. A
in the approaches to Benoa harbour. Because of the cruising permit is required for all sailing boats
currents and the meandering entrance channel to wishing to visit Indonesia. However, on some occa-
Benoa, this port should only be entered in daylight. sions boats arriving in Benoa without a permit have
A strong current will be encountered SW of been allowed by the Harbour Master to stay a few
Lombok where the ocean current setting along the days for reprovisioning. ·
southern coasts of the islands meets the outflow-

1515 Darwin to Christmas Island

403
ROUTES IN THE SO UTH I N DIA N OCEAN

This is normally a fast sail in 15-25 knot SE winds arriving without a visa may not be allowed to stay.
if the passage is timed for July or August. If it is left The strict Australian food quarantine regulations
later than the first half of September, the trade are not applied as rigorously as on the mainland.
winds can be less reliable and there is a greater At Christmas Island the SE trade winds blow
chance of calms and light variable winds. As far as almost continuously from May until December, but
Ashmore reef, the same directions apply as those in the first months of the year, when the NW mon-
for route IS14. In strong winds or poor visibility it soon is established in the area to the north of the
might be safer to avoid both the oil platforms in island, the NW monsoon makes itself felt with
approximately 12 "OO'S, 125 "OO'E and the two reefs occasional heavy rains, strong winds, and thun-
to the west of them by taking a route which pass- derstorms. In January and February winds can
es well to the south or north of the area. From WP blow strongly from the west or north. The island
IS153 between Ashmore and Hibernia reefs, a direct is normally spared the cyclones which affect the
course leads outside all dangers to WP IS154, two area between it and North West Australia.
miles east of Christmas Island. The best anchorage The anchorage at Christmas Island can become
is at Flying Fish Cove. Boats should fly the Q flag uncomfortable when the trade winds are at their
on arrival and will be visited by customs. The rest strongest, a good incentive to up anchor and sail
of entry formalities will be completed ashore. As the 500 miles to Cocos Keeling, where there is a
the island is an Australian territory, similar visa choice of safe and beautiful anchorages.
requirements apply as in Australia itself and those

IS16 Western Australia to Cocos Keeling

Tropical storms affect the area crossed by this route have been encountered on this run, with sudden
during the summer months, from the middle of winds of up to 50 knots.
November to April, and a passage during this peri- A good port of departure from Western Australia
od is therefore not recommended. Better sailing is Broome. On leaving the port one should move
conditions usually occur in May-June and immediately offshore as the reefs north of
September-October, when the SE trade winds Gantheaume Point are reported to be more exten-
either have not reached their full strength or have sive than charted. From WP ISl 61 a course can be
started to diminish. Occasionally strong squalls set for WP IS162, north of Mermaid Reef, so that all

404
 1510 ROUTES FROM AUSTRALIA

dangers south of that reef are left to port. The direct 1I 4 mile to port. A marker shows where to turn to
route leads to WP IS163, six miles east of Direction port to reach the yellow quarantine buoy. Flight
Island on South Cocos. As the only powerful light Services should be called on VHF channel 16 and
is at the airport, on the SW side of the lagoon, the customs, immigration, and quarantine officers will
atoll should be approached carefully at night. The come to the boat. Strict food quarantine regulations
entrance into the lagoon at South Cocos is between apply here ·and only Australian food products,
Horsburgh and Direction Island. The recom- labelled as such, will be allowed. Australian
mended anchorage for yachts is south of Direction visas are compulsory.
Island and is reached by leaving Direction Island

1817 Western Australia to Bass Strait

Sailing along the south of AustraBa can be done next course alteration, to WP IS173, takes the route
either in one long leg to Bass Strait or in easy coastal south of Cape Leeuwin. From WP IS174 a direct
stages by stopping at various places en route. The course can be set across the AustraBan Bight to WP
offshore route has the advantage of more constant IS175, north of King Island, in the western
winds as the Great Australian Bight is renowned approaches to Bass Strait.
for its baffling winds in summer. If the transocean For vessels bound for Sydney direct from ei ther
route from South Africa has been left for a detour Western Australia or even Cape Town, the passage
to Western Australia, it is advisable to regain that through Bass Strait is only recommended in win-
route after rounding Cape Leeuwin. Extreme "ter. During the summer better conditions are met
caution must be exercised when approaching Bass by keeping south of Tasmania. After passing
Strait from westward, especially at night or in bad Tasmania, the course should only turn north after
visibility, because of the strong currents that sweep longitude 155 "E has been passed, so as to avoid the
through the strait. full effect of the south-setting Australian current
Leaving Fremantle at WP ISl71, NW of Garden and to approach Sydney from offshore where the
Island, the course runs down the west coast of current is much weaker and the wind s steadier.
Australia to WP IS172, off Cape Naturaliste. The

405
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN

1820 ROUTE S FRO M I ND ONESIA

IS21 Bali to Christmas Island 406
IS22 Bali to Chagos 407
Bali occupies a unique position on the world sail- Although conditions may vary locally as the
ing routes because of its convenient position astride Indonesian archipelago stretches over a consider-
the main cruising route around the world. Since it able portion of the ocean, generally t~e SE monsoon
is also a very attractive island with lots to see and lasts from April to October and the NW monsoon
do, Bali is rarely bypassed by anyone sailing from November to March. Among the islands to the
through the area . There are only three main routes east of Java, which includes Bali, the SE monsoon
out of Bali, one destined for the islands of the South blows strongly from the ESE, being at its height·
Indian Ocean, a direct route to Sri Lanka south of during June, July, and August. The NW monsoon
Sumatra, and one heading across the equator to sets in about December and attains its maximum
Singapore. The first of these routes is used by boats strength in January. The NW monsoon is the wet
bound for South Africa as well as those bound for season, with the highest rainfall in December and
the Red Sea by a more indirect route via the January, when squalls are most frequent.
Seychelles and possibly East Africa. A small Along the northern shores of the higher islands,
number of boats also use Bali as a departure point winds in both seasons are steadier during the night
for por ts in Northern and Western Australia. hours, being influenced by land and sea breezes.
Because of the prevailing winds these routes are For this reason most Indonesian sailing craft tend
best sailed at the change of seasons, in April or to make their passages at night, keeping close to the
October. At the present thne the most frequented shore. Land and sea breezes are very important for
route out of Bali is the transequatorial route to those planning to sail in these waters and are very
Singapore ITll (page 382). evident along the coasts of larger islands, although
The area around Bali is under the influence of the weaker on smaller islands. These breezes are at
NW and SE monsoons, although the high moun- their strongest when the monsoons are weak. The
tains and irregular coastline cause significant mod- change from land to sea breeze occurs in the mid-
ifications to local weather conditions and the high dle of the morning, while that from sea to land
Indonesian islands often block the monsoons com- breeze occurs shortly after sunset near mountain-
pletely. Strong winds are quite rare, although some ous coasts and later in the night near flat country.
squalls can be violent, and as these often develop The force of the breeze decreases with distance
suddenly they can be quite dangerous to those from the shore but can be felt up to 20 miles off-
caught unaware. Tropical cyclones are also very shore. The breezes are strongest near mountainous
rare, the only area affected being near Trmor and country sloping gradually to the sea and are also
Flores Islands, with less than one storm per year, stronger on dear days.
in the period from January to April.

1521 Bali to Christmas Island

II
~
406
 1520 ROUTES FROM INDONES!A

Generally pleasant sailing conditions can be blow strongly from the west or north. The island
expected during the months when the majority of is normally spared the cyclones which affect the
boats make this passage, which is August and area between it and North West Australia .
September. The trade winds blow strongly in July From WP IS211, south of Benoa harbour, a direct
and August, but sometimes there are years when route runs south of Java and Sumatra to WP IS212,
the trade winds fail to be established and winds are two miles east of Christmas Island. The best
either very light or can blow at gale force for sev- anchorage is at Flying Fish Cove. Boats should fly
eral days. At Christmas Island the SE trade winds the Q flag on arrival and will be visited by customs.
blow almost continuously from May until The rest of the entry formalities will be completed
December, but in the first months of the year, when ashore. As the island is an Australian territory, sim-
the NW monsoon is established in the area to the ilar visa requirements apply as in Australia itself
north of the island, the l\TW monsoon makes itself and those arriving without a visa may not be
felt with occasional heavy rains, strong winds, and allowed to stay. The strict Australian food quar-
thunderstorms. In January and February winds can antine regulations may also apply.

1822 Bali to Chagos

This more direct route is preferred by those who are to give a NW flow of wind. The NW monsoon is not
not tempted by the usual detour via <;:hristmas and so reliable, brings rain, and blows most strongly in
Cocos Keeling Islands. The route from Bali runs January and February. The period of the NW mon-
slightly north of latitude 10·s where good sailing soon is also the cyclone season, but these storms
conditions can be expected throughout the SE mon- normally form south of Chagos and move in a
soon and the risk of cyclones is almost nonexistent. southerly direction. They almost never track
The route is joined south of Sumatra by boats that north towards the equator.
have reached the Indian Ocean through the Sunda From WP 1S221, south of Benoa harbour, a direct
Strait. Although the route from Bali is under the route runs south of Java and Sumatra to WP 1S222,
general influence of the SE trade winds, strong 10 miles SE of Blenheim Reef. From there a course
winds from the southern quarter are not unusual can be set for WP IS223 close to the NW pass lead-
during the winter months and they are often ing into the lagoon at Salomon Island. The lagoon
accompanied by a big swell. Rough seas have been is entered through the NW pass and the recom-
encountered especially around longitude 90°E, the mended anchorage is off Takamaka Island, on the
disturbance being apparently caused by a subma- east side of the lagoon. Because of the extensive
rine mountain ridge. reefs and absence of lights, except at Diego·Garcia
Chagos enjoys South Indian Ocean weather with itself, the area should be approached with great
SE trade winds from April to November, but as the care. Special regulations apply to visitors to
(
islands are close to the upper limit of the trade Diego Garcia, which is a military base leased by the
' winds, they can be light and more variable. From UK to the USA. Only genuine emergency stops at
December to March, when the ITCZ moves south, Diego Garcia are allowed, although the presence of
the NE monsoon is deflected south of the equator cruising boats is tolerated in the other islands.

407
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN

1530 ROUTES IN THE

CENTRAL INDIAN OCEAN
1831 Christmas Island to Cocos Keeling 409
IS32 Cocos Keeling to Mauritius 409
1833 Cocos Keeling to Chagos 410
1834 Christmas Island to Chagos 411
IS35 Chagos to Seychelles 411
IS36 Chagos to Mauritius 412
IS37 Chagos to Madagascar 412

The islands of the South Indian Ocean provide one April until November. The best sailing season is the
of the most attractive cruising grounds in the sou thern winter, from June to September. In some
world, yet the number of boats that visit them is of the islands in lower latitudes, such as Chagos or
very small. There are several reasons for this: the the Seychelles, the SE trade winds can be light and
remoteness of the islands from the major cruising more.variable, especially outside the peak winter
routes, the restrictions imposed on the movement months. From December to March, when the ITCZ
of cruising boats in some of the islands, either by moves south, the NE monsoon in the North Indian
civil or military authorities, and the fact that by the Ocean is deflected south of the equator and pro-
time they h ave reached the Indian Ocean most vides a flow of NW winds. The weather in summer
sailors seem to have run out of time. is Jess attractive, a hot and humid NW monsoon in
The routes linking the islands with each other, as the northwest and the danger of tropical cyclones
well as with neighbouring Africa, are mostly u nder in the south.
the influence of the SE trade winds, which last from

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 1530 ROUTES IN THE CENTRAL INDIAN OCEA N

1531 Christmas Island to Cocos Keeling

During the SE trade wind season the winds on this carefully at night. The entrance into the large
route are almost always favourable. Occasionally lagoon is west of Direction Island and the recom-
the trades cease to blow for a day, but periods of mended anchorage is in its lee. To reach the ancl)or-
calms or light winds are usually short lived. The age, Direction Island is left 1/4 mile to port. A
one unpleasant feature of this route is the large marker shows where to turn to port to reach the
swell from the south or southwest. Because the yellow quarantine buoy where arriving yachts
wind blows from the SE and the swell is almost at should anchor and wait for clearance. The Q flag
right angles to the direction of the wind, the motion must be flown until cleared. Flight Services
can be very uncomfortable and it can also be tough should be called on VHF channel 16 and customs,
on selfsteering gears, which have sometimes bro- immigration, and quarantine officers will come to
ken under the strain of the violent motion. the boat. Strict food quarantine regulations apply
A direct route links these two Australian pos- and only Australian food products, labelled as
sessions. From WP IS311, west of Christmas such, will be allowed. Occasionally, fresh produce
Island, a course should be set for WP 15312, six taken on board at Christmas Island has been con-
miles east of Direction Island on South Cocos. As fiscated at Cocos Keeling. Australian visas are
the only powerful light is at the airport, on the SW compulsory.
side of the lagoon, the atoll should be approached

1532 Cocos Keeling to Mauritius

409
ROUTES JN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN

This long haul across the width of the South Indian by the Western Entrance. The Northern Entrance,
Ocean has the full benefit of the SE trade winds however, is easier and therefore safer. Having left
during the southern winter months, from May to Horsburgh Island to port, from WP IS321, NW of
October. These winds often blow at 20 to 25 knots that island, a direct course (route 1S32A) can be set
for days on end and sometimes reach gale force. for WP IS322, three miles north of Round Island
The pleasure of a fast passage is often marred by north of Mauritius. From there the course should
an uncomfortable cross swell which rolls in relent- be altered to sail along the NW coast to Port Louis,
lessly from the Southern Ocean. The weather is the island's main harbour. The Port A,uthority must
generally rougher in the proximity of Cocos be contacted on VHF channel 16 to obtain per-
Keeling and both winds and seas usually moder- mission to enter the port. Arriving yachts are nor-
ate after the halfway mark to Mauritius has been mally directed to the customs dock.
passed. The trade winds continue to blow consis- Some boats break the journey to Mauritius by
tently in October, but the weather becomes more calling in at Rodriguez (route IS32B), where cruis-
squally and the chances of encountering gale force ing boats are welcome and local boats sometimes
winds are greater. Although it would appear that sail out to guide the visitors in. If a stop there is
by making a sweep to the north it would be pos- intended, from Cocos Keeling the course should be
sible to avoid the area with the highest frequency set for WP IS323, off the north point of the island.
of gale force winds, this does not seem to be the The main harbour is at Port Mathurin, where boats
case. Boats that have arrived in Mauritius by a more have to clear in. Although the island belongs to
roundabout way have encountered equally rough Mauritius, the clearance is only valid locally and
conditions as those which sailed a direct course. one must clear in again on arrival in Mauritius. The
Boats normally leave the lagoon at South Cocos winds between the two islands are often very
by the Northern Entrance, although in good light strong, especially at the peak of the SE trade winds,
and if there is not a large swell, it is possible to in July and August, when winds of up to 50 knots
thread one's way SW across the lagoon and leave have been reported.

1533 Cocos Keeling to Chagos

t
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For the duration of the SE monsoon both winds and winds are less constant in direction and usually
current are favourable along this route. have a northerly component. The weather in the
Occasionally in July and August the trade winds transition period between monsoons is often
blow very strongly south of latitude 10'5, but these unsettled, with overcast skies and rain squalls,
conditions are less common further north. Better often accompanied by violent winds. ·
sailing conditions are often encountered at the Because of the restrictions that apply to boats
beginning and end of the SE monsoon, September arriving in Diego Garcia it is better to make straight
being considered to be the best month. During the for the islands on the north side of the archipelago,
NE monsoon of the North Indian Ocean, the influ- such as Salomon or Peros Banhos, unless an emer-
ence of this monsoon makes itself felt as far south gency call at Diego Garcia can be justified.
as latitude 10°S. Between January and April Having left the lagoon at Cocos Keeling through

410
 1830 ROUTES IN THE CENTRAL INDIAN OCE AN

the North Entrance, from WP lS331, NW of pass leading into the lagoon at Salomon Island.
Horsburgh Island, a direct course can be set for WP Because of the extensive reefs and absence of lights,
IS332, 10 miles SE of Blenheim Reef. From there the except at Diego Garcia itself, the area should be
course can be altered for WP IS333 close to the l\TW approached with great care.

1534 Christmas Island to Chagos

There are few boats which bypass Cocos Keeling From WP IS341, west of Christmas Island, a
Island and sail direct from Christmas Island to direct course leads to WP IS342, 10 miles SE of
Chagos. However, in unsettled weather it might be Blenheim Reef. From there the course can be altered
preferable to sail a direct course, rather than make for any of the islands and atolls in this uninhabit-
the detour to the south. The winter months of May ed archipelago. The Salomon Islands, Peros
to September provide both favourable winds and Banhos, and Egmont Islands are all popular with
current. The weather on this route is similar to that cruising boats. The most convenient anchorage is
on routes IS31 and IS33 to which reference should in Salomon lagoon. To reach it, from WP lS342 the
be made. It should also be noted that Diego Garcia course should be altered for WP IS343, close to the
is a restricted military island and anchorage must pass leading into the lagoon.
be sought elsewhere in the Chagos Archipelago.

1535 Chagos to Seychelles

The SE monsoon should be favoured for this route May and June. Later in the year the NE monsoon
which has the best weather between May and starts making itself felt in the South Indian Ocean,
September, when both winds and current are the transitional months of October and November
favourable. Near perfect sailing conditions have being associated with light winds, calm seas, and
been encountered by boats making this passage in the occasional violent rain squall.

411
 RO UTES IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN

A good place to leave from Chagos is Peros the course can be altered for WP IS353, north of St
Banhos. Having left the large lagoon through the Anne Island in the approaches to Port Victoria, the
NW Pass, from WP I5351, north of Diamond Island, capital located on Mahe, the main island of the
the route runs due west along parallel 5 'S. The route group. Beacons lead through the reefs into the har-
is clear of dangers, but the Seychelles should be bour. Having contacted the Port Authority on VHF
· approached with caution because of the rocks and channel 16, arriving yachts must anchor in the quar-
reefs that surround them. The safest approach is to antine area north of Victoria lighthouse where they
make landfall at Frigate Island by setting course for will be boarded for clearance . ..
WP IS352, five miles SE of that island. From there ..
IS36 Chagos to Mauritius

A windward passage during most of the SE trade Islands, in the SE part of the Chagos archipelago.
wind season, this route can benefit from better From WP 15361, a direct course may be set for
winds at the beginning and end of winter, when the Mauritius. The route passes well to the east of
trade winds do not have too much south in them. Cargados Carajos Reef, which belongs to
It has been noticed that the stronger the SE trade Mauritius. Boats which have not yet cleared into
winds, the more south there is in them and vice Mauritius are not allowed to stop there without
versa. Therefore it may be worth avoiding this prior permission. The route leads to WP IS362,
route in July and August when the trade winds are three miles north of Round Island north of
known to be quite blustery. Boats that have made Mauritius. From there the course should be altered
this passage in October have reported pleasant sail- to sail along the NW coast to Port Louis, the
ing conditions. If the winds are easterly, it is pos- island's main harbour. The Port Authority must be
sible to call first at Rodriguez Island before contacted on VHF channel 16 for permission to
continuing to Mauritius (see route 1532). enter the port. Arriving yachts are normally
A good point of departure are the Egmont directed to the customs dock.

IS37 Chagos to Madagascar

412
 1540 ROUTES IN THE WESTERN INDIAN OCEAN

Although most cruising boats bound for South should be set for WP IS372 and then WP IS373. The
Africa continue to sail the traditional route via main reason for using the latter waypoint is to sail
Mauritius, a route that goes through the most of the remaining distance on the latitude of
Mozambique Channel is gathering popularity, Cap d' Ambre. The purpose of this is that as the SE
especially as one is able to visit Madagascar on the trade winds hit the mass of Madagascar, their direc-
way. From WP IS371, north of the Egmont Islands, tion becomes more southerly, therefore approach-
in the SW part of the Chagos archipelago, the direct ing the island from the east, rather than NE, ensures
route to Cap d' Ambre, the northern point of that the winds are met at a better angle. From WP
Madagascar, cuts right through Saya de Matha IS373 a course can be set for WP IS374, six miles
Bank, an area of strong tidal sets and rips. To avoid north of Cap d' Ambre. The nearest port of entry is
the worst part of this area, and also to approach at Antseranana, on the island's west coast.
Madagascar from a better angle, an initial course

1540 ROUTES IN THE

WESTERN INDIAN OCEAN
IS41 Seychelles to Mauritius 414
1542 Seychelles to Comoros 415
IS43 Seychelles to East Africa 416
1544 Comoros to East Africa 416
1545 Comoros to Seychelles 417
I
1546 Comoros to South Africa 418 60"E
1543 SEYCHELLES
In spite of its many attractions, the western part of ----':="-----''-<a •
944 •
the South Indian Ocean is visited by few cruising
boats. The two island groups, the Seychelles and
the Comoros, are part of a triangular cruising route
between the African mainland and these offshore
islands. The area north of Madagascar is peppered
with reefs and small islands, which are a diver' s
paradise, but used to be a navigator' s nightmare
until satellite navigation took most of those wor- MAURITIUS.a 20•s
ries away. Nevertheless, the area should still be
approached with great caution as the positions of ""REUNION
many islands and reefs are incorrectly charted and
therefore do not agree with coordinates obtained
byGPS.
Weather conditions throughout the area bear a
certain similarity. In the Seychelles the SE trade 40°E 60' E
winds prevail from May to the middle of October,
although in some years they are not established IS40 Routes in the Western Indian Ocean

413
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN

until June or even July. The SE season is the fine the end of October or early in November and lasts
weather period, with steady SE winds blowing in until April. This is the hot and rainy season, which
July, August, and September. In November the is characterised by irregular winds and squally
changeover to the NW monsoon is marked by weather. In the SE season winds blow more regu-
heavy squalls and rain. The NW monsoon is the larly, although never too strong, their strength
wet season and lasts until April. During these being broken by the mass of neighbouring
months winds blow from the NW, W, or WSW. Madagascar. The changeover between the seasons
Cyclones are practically unknown and if they do is marked by calms, variable wind:i, and squally
pass through the vicinity it is usually around 200 weather. Occasionally cyclones reach the Comoro
miles to the south of Mahe. Islands, the months with the highest risk being
In the Comoros, the NW monsoon commences at February to April.

IS41 Seychelles to Mauritius

A windward passage for most of the year, the tim- route. To stay clear of all these dangers, on depar-
ing of this route offers few alternatives, as the sea- ture from WP 15411 the course should be set to pass
son when northerly winds are more frequent also through two intermediate waypoints, IS412 and
coincides with the cyclone season. If the passage is IS413, so as to stay at least 20 miles west of Agalega
made during the SE trade wind season, but outside and surrounding dangers. From WP IS413 the
of the blustery months of July and August, better course can be altered for WP 15414 in the approach-
conditions can be expected in May and early June, es to Port Louis, the capital and main port. The Port
or in October, two periods when the winds can be Authority must be contacted on VHF channel 16 to
more easterly. obtain permission to enter the port. Arriving yachts
In good light it is possible to use Cerf Passage are normally directed to the customs dock.
when leaving Mahe from Port Victoria. Otherwise Boats occasionally break this passage at the
it is safer to use the main shipping channel. From Cargados Carajos Reef, which is close enough to
WP I5411, at the exit of Cerf Passage, a direct course the direct route to warrant the detour. Such a
leads to Mauritius passing close to the west of detour is made even more tempting if strong head-
Coetivy Island, which should be approached winds are encountered, which is often the case. The
with care as it has been reported to lie some 3 miles reef belongs to Mauritius and is visited by fishing
further west than its charted position. Similar cau- boats from that island. Cruising boats are not sup-
tion should be exercised when passing west of posed to stop there unless sheltering from bad
Agalega Island, which is also close to the direct weather.

414
 1540 ROUTE S IN THE WESTERN INDIAN O CEAN

1542 Seychelles to Comoros

Because of the various island groups and numer- the Amirante Bank to WP I5423, north of Boudeuse
ous reefs encountered on this route, and also the Cay. This section should only be done in good light;
likelihood of strong headwinds at the height of the under any other conditions it would be safer to
SE monsoon, when the direction of the wind make for WP I5424 to pass east of Marie Louise
becomes increasingly southerly as the Comoros are Island and north of Alphonse Island.
approached, most boats break up this passage into Having left behind the last of these islands
shorter stages by stopping at some of the islands belonging to the Seychelles, there is a choice of
en route. Because winds over 20 knots are the order routes to reach either the Comoros or Mayotte.
of the day at the height of the SE trade wind sea- Although the latter belongs geographically to the
son, the passage should be undertaken at the start same group, as a French territory it is separate from
of the season, although in April there is still the the other Comoros. The direct route for the
small risk of a late cyclone. Comoros (IS42A) is sailed by setting course from
After leaving Port Victoria on the main island of WP IS423 for WP IS425. This route passes between
Mahe, the course goes around the north of the Cosmoledo Group and Assumption Island before
island to WP 15420, north of North Point. From the course is altered for WP IS426, north of Grand
there the course can be set for WP JS421, NE of Comoro. The west coast of that island is then fol-
Descroches Island, one of the Amirante Islands, lowed to the main port at Moroni. The only other
which has a well protected anchorage on its west official port of entry is Mutsamudu on Anjou an
side used by boats making this passage. From WP Island. To reach it, from WP 15425 the course should
IS422, SW of Descroches Island, the route crosses be altered for WP IS427.

415
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH }NOIAN O CEAN

A direct route can be sailed to Mayotte (IS42B) into Mayotte. The Port Captain should be contacted
by setting a course from WP 15423 for WP I5428. on VHF channel 16 for instructions before the
The course can then be altered for WP 15429, in the perimeter reef is entered .
approaches to Dzaoudzi, the official port of entry

IS43 Seychelles to East Africa

Favourable winds can be expected on this route should set a course for WP IS433, in the approach-
throughout the SE trade wind season, from April es to Mombasa. Port Control should be contacted
till October, the months with the most consistent on VHF channels 12or16. Other ports of entry into
winds being May to September. During this peri- Kenya are Lamu (2' 18'S, 40 '55'E) and Malindi
od the current is also favourable, setting westward, (3 '13'S, 40 '07'E).
but it turns northward before reaching the African Boats bound for Tanzania should set a course
coast. from WP IS432 for WP 15434, in the approaches to
From WP 15431, north of Mahe' s North Point, the Dar es Salaam. Arriving yachts should anchor in
route goes due west to pass north of the Amirante the inner harbour and wait to be visited by the var-
Islands through WP 1S432, 10 miles north of North ious officials. The other ports of entry into
Island. At night or in poor visibility the islands Tanzania are Zanzibar (6'10'S, 39'11'E), Mtwara
should be passed at a safe distance as they are low (10 '15'S, 40 '12'E), and Tanga (5 '04'S, 39'06'E).
and the light on North Island is reported to be out Formalities in Tanga appear to be the easiest and
of action occasionally. Those who wish to stop can Tanga Signal Station should be contacted on VHF
do so by following the directions in I542. chanpel 12 before proceeding to Dhow Wharf for
From WP 15432, the routes split according to their clearance.
East African destination. Boats bound for Kenya

IS44 Comoros to East Africa .

416
 1540 ROUTES IN THE WESTERN INDIAN OCEAN

Favourable winds prevail along this route during WP 15443 and also set a course for WP IS442.
the SE monsoon and there is also a north-setting The above offshore routes pass outside Tanzanian
coastal current throughout the year, which can waters. The alternative is to take an inshore route
reach as much as 4 knots at the peak of the SE mon- inside the reefs that front the Tanzanian coast. If the
soon, but is only slight during the NE monsoon. intention is to cruise most of the Tanzanian coast,
The most pleasant weather is in July and August, clearance formalities should be completed in' the
when the temperature is cooler and humidity low. southern port of Mtwara (1015'S, 40·12'E). Other
Whether leaving from Mayotte (IS44A) or Grand Tanzanian ports of entry are the capital Dar es
Comoro (IS44B), boats bound for Kenya can sail a Salaam (6"49'S, 39·19'E), Zanzibar (6 ·1o·s, 39 ·n 'E),
direct offshore route. From WP441, in the approach- and Tanga (5.04'S, 39•06'E). The island of Pemba is
es to Dzaoudzi, on Mayotte, a course can be set for closed to visitors on security grounds and as there
WP IS442, in the approaches to Mombasa. are several sensitive areas in Tanzania skippers are
Mombasa Port Control should be contacted on advised to check the situation with the authorities
VHF channels 12or16. Boats leaving from Moroni, in Dar es Salaam to avoid trouble with local officials.
on Grand Comoro, can take their departure from

1545 Comoros to Seychelles

Because the area around the Comoros is subject to several island groups north of Madagascar that can
tropical storms, this passage should not be under- be visited en route to the Seychelles, such as Iles
taken during the cyclone season. From May to Glorieuses or Providence Island, and all of them
October winds along this route are mostly SSE or have protected anc;horages.
SE and there is also a favourable current. There are The direct route from Mayotte passes west of Iles

417
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN

Glorieuses. From WP IS451, in the approaches to otherwise it may be necessary to carry on past St
Dzaoudzi, a course can be set to pass through two Anne Island and enter the island's main port
intermediate waypoints, 15452and15453. The route through the normal shipping channel. Having con-
continues north of Alphonse Islands to WP IS454, tacted the Port Authority on VHF channel 16, arriv-
off Mahe' s South Point. There the course should be ing yachts must anchor in the quarantine area north
altered to sail due north parallel to the coast to WP of Victoria lighthouse where they will be boarded
IS455, one mile SE of Cerf Passage. In good visi- for clearance.
bility this pass can be taken to reach Port Victoria,

1546 Comoros to South Africa

The direct route to Durban, or other South African From WP IS461, off the SE extremity of Mayotte,
ports, leads through the Mozambique Channel, the offshore route goes SW to WP IS462 off Cape
where the north-setting Mozambique Current St Andre. From there the route runs parallel to the
can create very difficult sailing conditions. west .coast of Madagascar passing between
Although the winds that blow between Chesterfield and Juan de Nova islands all the way
Madagascar and the African mainland often come to WP IS463, also passing to the east of Europa
from a favourable direction, strong NE winds blow- Island. From WP 15463 the course should be altered
ing against the current produce rough seas. This for WP IS464. Depending on weather conditions,
passage should not be made before the middle of from that point one can close with the South
September, when the chances of encountering con- African coast, especially if intending to stop first
trary winds in the Mozambique Channel are at Richards Bay, in which case landfall will be made
greater than later in the year. If necessary the pas- at WP IS465. If bound for Durban a course should
sage south can be interrupted in Madagascar and be set for WP 15466, in the approaches to Durban.
mainly for this reason the route should follow the Durban Harbour Radio can be contacted before
eastern side of the Mozambique Channel. South of entering the port, but this is not compulsory. Yachts
the Mozambique Channel similar directions apply should proceed to the international jetty before for-
as for route IS52 which also describes weather con- malities are completed ashore.
ditions in detail.

418
 ISSO ROUTES FROM THE MASCARENE ISLANDS

1550 ROUTES FROM THE

-MASCARENE ISLANDS
IS51 Mauritius to Reunion 419
IS52 Mauritius to South Africa 420
IS53 Reunion to South Africa 421
1554 Mauritius to Seychelles 422
1555 Mauritius to Comoros 423
1556 Mauritius to Madagascar 424
Mauritius has always been a popular stopover from
60°E
where to prepare for the long and difficult leg to SEYCHELLES
South Africa. This pa~sage can be a rough trip and , a •
there are few other areas in the world that have '
such a bad reputation among cruising boats as the
southwestern part of the Indian Ocean. The strong
south flowing Agulhas Current can create extreme-
ly rough conditions when hit by a SW gale, simi-
lar to conditions encountered off Cape Hatteras
when the Gulf Stream is hit by a violent northerly
wind. Several boats have got themselves into seri-
ous trouble on this passage, being knocked down
or rolled over and dismasted, either between
Mauritius and Durban or on the next leg to Cape
Town.
Boats heading north from Mauritius sail into a
much more benign region where the weather is
mostly fine. Although the entire area is prone to
60'E
tropical cyclones, the really dangerous period is
December to April. From April to November the SE ISSO Routes fmm the Mascarene Islands
trades blow almost continuously, usually fresh-
ening by mid-morning and getting lighter by strongest in June, July, and August. In the cyclone
mid-afternoon. The wind often dies away at night season, which is the most inclement time of year,
under the influence of the land, and if it does not SE winds are still the most common wind, but they
go calm at night, it will normally blow hard the fol- are more moderate in strength and are subject to
lowing morning. The SE trade winds are at their interruptions by winds from W or NW, or by calms.

1551 Mauritius to Reunion

419
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN

This short passage between the largest two of the in South Africa, they are recommended for those
Mascarene Islands can be made at any time outside who intend to travel inland.
the cyclone season. Most boats stop at the French From WP 15511, off Port Louis, a direct route
overseas territory of Reunion on their way to South passing north of Reunion leads to WP IS512 in the
Africa in October or early November. Many of approaches to Pointe des Ga lets. Entry formalities
those who stop in Reunion do so to stock up with for Reunion are completed at Pointe des Galets. The
French goods and to obtain a South African visa, Port Captain should be contacted on VHF channel
as there is a South African Consulate in the capi- 16 before proceeding to the fishermen's dock. The
tal St Denis. Although such visas are not compul- other port of entry is Saint Pierre (21 '20'S,55 '29'E).
sory for sailors who do not leave their boats while

1552 Mauritius to South Africa

The best time to leave Mauritius is early in from the Agulhas Current. The winds up to this
November when the frequency of spring gales point can be expected to be favourable, a lthough
around latitude 30 "S is getting less and the not necessarily trade wind conditions as encoun-
chances of an early cyclone are remote. The rec- tered earlier on.
ommended procedure is to try and keep about 150 The weather of the entire area between
miles off the southern tip of Madagascar as the Madagascar and the Cape of Good Hope is domi-
weather in the vicinity of this island is often unset- nated by the frontal systems which are created by
tled. Sailing at this distance from land it is also pos- Antarctic lows moving eastward. The approach of
sible to heave-to if a front arrives with contrary a cold front is usually heralded by a gradual change
winds. This course also avoids a reputed freak in the appearance of the sky, with cirrus clouds
wave area on the extended continental shelf off marching in from the west. These are replaced by
Madagascar. Yet another reason why it is recom- dense banks of cumulus, while the wind backs
mended to stay at least 150 miles south of slowly from E to NW, freshening all the time. After
Madagascar is because the South Equatorial a brief interlude the gale arrives from the SW, its
Current splits here, half of it merging with the severity and duration depending on the nature and
south flowing Agulhas Current, the other half flow- extent of the front. During the passing of a front,
ing north into the Mozambique Channel. By clos- when the wind shifts suddenly from E or NE to SW,
ing too early with the African coast several boats conditions in the Agulhas Current can become haz-
have been pushed north by the northern branch of ardous, especially around the 100 fathom line. In
the current, while hoping for a southerly boost such a situation it is best to head immediately for

420
 1550 ROUTES FROM THE MASCARENE ISLANDS

the coast as the waves are smaller in the shallow- These are reports from the various lighthouses
er water near the coast. Alternatively one should along the South African coast and so give details
try and keep well offshore in deeper water and only of wind strength and direction, as well as baro-
approach the coast when dose to the destination. metric pressure, going from south to north. One can
Although it is difficult to predict the kind of therefore assess if a low system is corning up the
weather to expect when closing with the South coast and take appropriate action.
African coast, one should keep an eye on the Although it has been suggested that boats
barometer. A local method of forecasting the bound for South Africa should sail directly to Port
approach of a SW buster is to watch the barome- Elizabeth in order to avoid the worst of the Agulhas
ter. As it starts falling the winds will probably be Current, rather than stop at Richards Bay or
NE. Once the barometer stops falling, the wind Durban, experienced local sailors strongly advise
becomes light and then ceases altogether. The against such a course of action. The Agulhas
moment the barometer starts rising, one has Current reaches its maximum width and strength
between .half an hour and one hour before the dose to the latitude of Port Elizabeth making this
arrival of the SW gale, which may be enough warn- the most dangerous area during bad weather.
ing to leave quickly the 100 fathom line. Furthermore, the chances of encountering the cen-
Most boats have encountered very mixed weath- tre of the lows which are moving parallel with the
er on this route, with winds blowing at anything coast are much greater in these latitudes than ifthe
from 0 to 50 knots. However, very few are spared coast is approached north of Richards Bay, where
the SW gales that occur south of Madagascar and the Agulhas Current is also narrower. It is therefore
which succeed each other at two to three day inter- better to make landfall in about latitude 28 ·s and
vals. After the area south of Madagascar has been continue south only with a favourable weather
passed a new course should be set to a point 200 forecast.
miles ENE of Durban. Depending on wind and From WP IS521, off Port Louis, the recommended
weather a direct course can be steered from there to route to avoid the dangerous area south of
Durban. A common mistake is to allow too much for Madagascar passes east of Reunion through WP
leeway, trying to make landfall north of Durban, IS522. From there a course can be set for WP lS523
expecting to be taken south by the current. and thence for WP 15524. Depending on the port of
However, should a SW gale arrive while close to the destination as well as weather conditions, the
coast, one would be pushed even further north and course can then be altered to dose with the coast.
in that case the alternative is to seek shelter in A convenient port of entry is Richards Bay, where
Richards Bay. This port is also recommended if land- a boat may be sent out to guide a yacht into the
fall is made too far north of Durban. The subsequent port. Boats bound for Richards Bay should make
90 mile leg from Richards Bay to Durban can be landfall at WP IS525. Those wishing to proceed
made later with a favourable .weather forecast. directly to Durban should set course for WP lS526,
As the main consideration is to avoid crossing in the approaches to Durban. Durban Harbour
the Agulhas Current when the winds are from SW, Radio can be contacted before entering the port, but
up to date weather reports are essential. Useful this is not compulsory. Yachts are normally direct-
weather reports are broadcast at 1303 GMT on ed to the international jetty and formalities· are
17655, 4376, 8740.8 kHz, and VHF channel 26. completed ashore.

1853 Reunion to South Africa

421
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN

Similar directions apply as for route IS52 from From WP IS531, outside St Pierre, an · initial
Mauritius. Several of those who have made this course can be set for WP IS532, so as to keep well
passage described it as the toughest leg of their outside the dangerous area south of Madagascar as
entire voyage. It is therefore essential to prepare the described in the previous route. From WP IS532,
boat thoroughly for this passage. the same directions apply as those described for
The small port of St Pierre, on the SW coast of route IS52.
Reunion, is a convenient point of departure.

1554 Mauritius to Seychelles

The SE trade winds provide fair winds on this route Seychelles. Starting off from WP 15541, in the
from May to October, although the weather tends approaches to Port Louis, a course can be set first
to be occasionally squally. Cyclones affect the area for WP IS542 so as to sail at least 20 miles west of
around Mauritius from the middle of November Agalega Island and surrounding dangers. The
until the end of April or even beginning of May, route then passes through WP IS543 and continues
during which time it is best to avoid being in this towards Mahe passing close to the west of Coetivy
area. As the route passes fairly close to the Island, which should be approached with care as
Cargados Carajos Reefs, some boats take the oppor- it has been reported to lie some 3 miles further west
tunity to stop at one of these small islands. They than its charted position. Landfall should be made
L
belong to Mauritius and permission to stop there at WP IS544, off Mahe's South Point. The course
should be obtained from the Fisheries Department should be altered there to sail due north parallel to
of Mau ritius before leaving Port Louis. the coast to WP IS545, one mile SE of Cerf
1
A direct course can be sailed all the way from Passage. In good visibility this pass can be used to
Mauritius to Mahe, the main island of the reach Port Victoria, otherwise it may be necessary .1
422
 1550 ROUTES FROM THE MASCARENE ISLANDS

to carry on past St Anne Island and enter the VHF channel 16, arriving yachts must anchor in the
island's main port through the beaconed shipping quarantine area north of Victoria lighthouse
channel. Having contacted the Port Authority on where they will be boarded for clearance.
1555 Mauritius to Comoros

During the SE trade wind season, from May to north of Cap d' Ambre, the course should be altered
October, this is a downwind run to the northern tip for WP 15554, in the approaches to Dzaoudzi, the
of Madagascar. The favourable winds should con- official port of entry into Mayotte. The Port
tinue all the way to the Comoros, the group of small Captain should be contacted on VHF channel 16 for
islands spread out between Madagascar and the instructions before the perimeter reef is entered.
African coast. Mayotte belongs geographically to Boats bound for the Comoros (route IS55B) may
the Comoros, but as it is a French territory it is sep- stop at Iles Glorieuses, two small islands sur-
arate from the independent Comoros. rounded by a reef. From there, or if a stop in the
From WP 15551, off Port Louis, a direct route Glorieuses is not intended, from WP 15553, north
leads to WP 15552, east of Cap d' Ambre, the north- of Cap d' Ambre, a direct course can be sailed to the
ern extremity of Madagascar. As the route passes nearest of the Comoros, which is Anjouan. The
very close to Tromelin Island, a tiny French pos- landfall point for that island is IS555roff its north
session lying halfway between Mauritius and the point. From there the course is altered to reach the
northern tip of Madagascar, the passage can be port of Mutsamudu. Because the prevailing winds
interrupted there. Having passed Cap d' Ambre at are from the south, boats bound for Grand
a reasonable distance to avoid the rough seas in its Comoro should approach that island from the SE,
vicinity, the course can be altered for either rather than the north. To do this, from WP !5553 a
Mayotte or one of the islands in the Comoros. The course sh~ld be set for WP 15556, off Grand
route to Mayotte (IS55A) passes close by the Geyser ?f
Comoro's point. From there, the south and west
Bank, which should be avoided. From WP 15553, coasts of the' island are followed to Moroni.

423
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEA N

IS56 Mauritius to Madagascar

More cruising boats are visiting this large island off area. The South Equatorial Current splits at the cen-
the coast of Africa which receives the full force of tre of the island and runs north and south along the
the SE trade winds blowing across the Indian east coast. The current along the west coast is most-
Ocean. The strongest SE winds are in July, August, ly south-setting.
and September. Madagascar is under the influence As better sailing conditions will be encountered
of these winds all year, a!tpough the souther.n limit by sailing from Mauritius around the northern tip
of the SE trade winds moves up the coast from of Madagascar, directions as far as Cap d' Ambre
August to November. During this period variable are similar to those given for route !SSS. Rather
winds are experienced in the southern half of the than sail a direct course to Cap d' Ambre, better
island, although most winds are from an easterly conditions will be found if the northern tip of
or northeasterly d irection. Winds from these Madagascar is approached from the east. Therefore
directions can blow quite strongly. In March, when an initial course should be sailed for WP ISS62 from
the ITCZ is further south, the northern tip of the where the route continues west along the same lat-
island loses the SE winds to NE and NW winds. itude to WP ISS63 before altering course for the NW
Madagascar lies within the cyclone belt, although coast of the island. The nearest port of entry is at
cyclones are not as frequent as in the Mauritiqs Antseranana.

1860 ROUTES FROM AFRICA

1861 East Africa to Seychelles 425
1862 Durban to Mauritius 426
1863 Durban to Cape Town 427
1864 Cape Town to Western Australia 428
The gradual easing of restrictions in some African particularly in September when the winds are less
countries has resulted in an increase in the num- boisterous than at the height of the season,
ber of cruising boats visiting various countries in between June and August. The islands of the South
East Africa, although the majority continue to limit Indian Ocean are occasionally visited by boats com-
their cruising to the offlying islands. Some boats ing from South Africa, a tough trip against the pre-
reach East Africa by sailing south through the Red vailing winds and current. No less tough is the
Sea and along the African coast during the NE passage to Australia in the Roaring Forties, in an
monsoon. Others reach the area by making a detour area of strong westerly winds which at least blow
via the islands of the South Indian Ocean before from a favourable direction.
continuing towards the Red Sea. The best weath- Along the coast of East Africa, the SE trade winds
er conditions for boats northbound from East blow steadily from April to October and rarely
Africa are encountered during the SW monsoon, exceed 20 knots. The wide band of northbound cur-

424
 IS60 ROUTES FROM AFR ICA

60°E ao·e
IS61 SEYCHELLES
'---'9~4~5-- ·-:.
·:~CHAGOS

MADAGASCAR
cocos··
KEELING

"> "" MAURITIUS

REUNION

IS62
1700
\664
4735
40'$
40'E 60'E 80' E 100'E

IS60 Routes fromAfrica

rent runs close to the shore and can be augmented winds from the NE and E prevail, this current is
by these SE winds so as to reach 4 knots, which slacker. Along the Tanzanian coast it is possible to
makes it difficult if not impossible to sail south dur· take an inshore route which stays inside the reefs
ing the wrong season. For this reason, voyages and islands. East Africa is not affected by the trop-
along the East African coast should start at the most ical cyclones that occur further south and east.
southerly point and follow the coast in a norther- Weather conditions around South Africa are
ly direction. During the NE monsoon, when described on page 420.

1561 East Africa to Seychelles

The NE monsoon makes itself felt along this route Although this is the cyclone season in other parts
between January and March, when conditions for of the Squth Indian Ocean, cyclones very rarely
an eastbound passage are favourable, even if the reach the latitude of .the Seychelles. Should a
winds·are often light. Between December and April cyclone threaten to come this way, with adequate
the current along this route is also favourable. warning boats on passage from Africa could tum

425
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN

north at the first sign of an approaching storm and reported to be sometimes out of action. The
move quickly out of its way into an area not affect- course can then be altered for WP 1S613, north of
ed by tropical storms. Mahe's North Point, in the approaches to Port
A direct route leads outside all dangers from the Victoria. This is entered through the main shipping
Kenyan coast to Mahe, the main island in the channel.
Seychelles. From WP IS611, in the approaches to Boats leaving from a Tanzanian port, such as Dar
Mombasa, a direct course can be set for WP IS612, es Salaam, follow a similar route. From WP IS614,
10 miles north of North Island, the northernmost in the approaches to Dar es Salaam,.<\ direct course
of the Amirante Islands. At night or in poor visi- can be set for WP IS612. The rest of the route is sim-
bility the islands should be passed at a safe distance ilar to the one described above.
as they are low and the light on North Island is

IS62 Durban to Mauritius

Few boats attempt to sail a rhumb line between direct route to Mauritius. The NE course will lead
these two points because of the strong south-flow- first into an area of variable winds and calms. The
ing Agulhas current and the high probability of SE trade winds can sometimes be found as far
encountering contrary winds. The recommended south as 30 'Sand, once found, they should ensure
tactic is to make easting with the help of the pre- a fast passage for the rest of the voyage. The best
vailing westerly winds of higher latitudes. On leav- month for this passage is May when the cyclone
ing Durban, from WP IS621 a SE route is taken so season has come to an end in the South Indian
that, depending on weather conditions, easting is Ocean and the winter gales of higher latitudes are
made between latitudes 30"S and 35"S. However, only about to begin.
one should be prepared to go even further south in Mauritius will be approached from the south by
search of westerly winds, possibly as far as 40 "S. a route which will pass east of Reunion Island.
Strong westerlies should be encountered in those Landfall will be made at WP IS623, off Cape
latitudes and also frequent squalls. Having sailed Brabant, the SW extremity of Mauritius. From there
at least 800 miles in a SE direction, a point will be the course can be altered for WP IS624, in the
reached where the course can be altered for a more approaches to Port Louis.

426
 1560 ROUTES FROM AFRICA

IS63 Durban to Cape Town

The best time to make this passage along the South a good forecast. It is recommended to leave
African coast is between January and March, when Durban at the end of a SW gale when the barom-
weather conditions can be expected to be the most eter has topped out around 1020 millibars. On leav-
benign. Few people attempt to make this passage ing Durban one should head straight for the 100
in one go without seeking shelter in one of the few fathom line to take full advantage of the strong
good ports en route. In fact the lack of sheltered south-setting current. Should the weather deteri-
anchorages is only one of three factors that make orate unexpectedly, one must close with the shore
sailing along this section particularly difficult, the immediately so as to avoid the worst of the waves.
other two being the Agulhas Current and the
unpredictable weather pattern. The Agulhas East London to Port Elizabeth (120 m)
Current runs in a SW direction following the 100 The same rules for leaving apply as for the run from
fathom (200 metres) contour of the continental shelf Durban south with the proviso that if the weather
and can attain up to 6 knots in places. The weath- is still favourable when level with East London and
er around the southern extremity of the African the barometer is not falling dramatically, it is bet-
continent is greatly influenced by pressure systems ter to continue to Port Elizabeth rather than stop at
moving NE from the Southern Ocean. As men- East London. In case of a sudden deterioration of the
tioned in route IS52, a SW gale combined with the weather, the same kind of avoiding action should
strong south-flowing current can create giant be taken as described earlier. It must be stressed that
waves up to 60 ft in height and even higher. the Agulhas Current is very strong between these
It has been established from research carried out two ports and also that there are inshore setting cur-
into the formation of these freak waves that in all rents into some of the bays en route.
cases the dominant waves came from the SW. This
always appears to coincide with a specific weath- Port Elizabeth to Mossel Bay (170 m)
er pattern, when areas of low pressure move along This section presents less problems than the pre-
the coast in a NE direction. It is not uncommon dur- vious ones as there are several places en route
ing such conditions for the wind to suddenly where one can shelter from a gale. One of the first
change from a near NE gale to a full SW gale, the of these ports is Knysna, although the entrance is
wind reinforcing the existing wave pattern which quite difficult because of the strong tidal currents
acts against the Agulhas Current. Usually the larg- and can become hazardous during a SW gale when
est waves occur between the edge of the continental heavy swells break across the entrance. Shelter can
shelf and an area 20 miles to seaward and this is the also be found in Mossel Bay, near Cape Seal in
reason why mariners are advised to move inshore Plettenberg Bay, and close to Cape St Francis, where
inside the 100 fathom line as soon as there is a sign one should beware of uncharted reefs.
of an approaching SW gale. Although coastal pas-
sages are outside the scope of this book, the area Mossel Bay to Cape Town (195 m)
under discu ssion has caused so many nightmares There are several places where one can anchor safe-
to sm all boat voyagers that the Durban to Cape ly during unfavourable weather and on no account
Town route has been considered in sections. should Cape Agulhas be rounded in bad weather.
There are onshore setting currents near all h ead-
Durban to East London (250 m) lands on this route, which are also fronted by reefs,
As there is absolutely no safe shelter along this making navigation very difficult, especially in poor
stretch of coast, it is essential to leave Durban with visibility.

427
ROUTES IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OC EAN

IS64 Cape Town to Western Australia

As most of this passage will be made in the Roaring For vessels going to Western Australia the route
Forties, or even higher latitudes, it is recommended runs between latitudes 39'5 and 40'S, where the
to sail in the southern summer when the frequen- proportion of westerly winds is relatively high dur-
cy of'gales is lowest, the weather warmer and there ing the summer months and the weather consid-
is little risk of encountering icebergs. Although the erably warmer than if one went south to about
recommended time coincides with the season of latitude 50 'S, where the predominance of wester-
tropical storms, these very rarely reach high lati- ly winds, and gales, is indeed higher. It must be
tudes and the only area where they might be stressed that a reluctance to go far enough south in
encountered is close to Western Australia. search of westerly winds and staying around lat-
On leaving Cape Town, from WP IS641, a SSE itude 35 'S usually means a higher proportion of SE
course can be set for WP IS642 to avoid the area of winds, and therefore a much slower passage. The
the Agulhas Bank, which has a high frequency of course should be altered for Fremantle, or any other
gales and also a contrary current. Even if the course West Australian destination, only after meridian
made good is SSW because of SE winds, the lost lOO'E has been crossed. Taking as a point of refer-
ground can be made up later when the area of west- ence WP IS644, boats bound for Freman tie can set
erly winds has been reached. In October and a course from that point for WP IS645, NW of
November the northern limit of icebergs extends Garden Island in the approaches to Fremantle. The
to latitude 39 'S in the area comprised between lon- continuation of the route towards Bass Strait is
gitudes 20' and 30°E, so the course should turn east described in route IS17 (page 405).
before this area is reached.

428
 19
WINDS AND CURRENTS
IN THE RED SEA
Winds knots, but gale force winds of 30 knots and over
occur fairly frequently. September and May are
The distinctive long shape of the Red Sea, bordered transitional months witl) lighter winds. In the Str?1it
by low arid coasts with high mountains rising some of Bab el Mandeb, a funnelling effect occurs which
twenty miles inland, dictates in some measure the increases the wind speed at all times of the year, but
direction of winds, which tend to blow parallel to especially in the winter months November to
these coasts, either from a NW or SE direction. March, when it is frequently 25 knots or more.
These winds differ significantly i!l the southern and In the northern part of the Red Sea from around
northern areas of the Red Sea, and in the south 20 'N, winds from the N to NW predominate in all
show a seasonal variation due to the movem~nt of months of the year, being stronger in winter than
the convergence' zone between the wind systems of in summer. However, in the most northerly part,
the northern and southern hemispheres. the Gulf of Suez, winds are more frequently over
Although the Red Sea is well to the north of the 20 knots from April to October with the highest fre-
equator, the ITCZ moves into this area to reach its quency of gale force winds during this time. The
farthest position north in July, around 12 "N. At this Gulf of Suez is the only part of the Red Sea to be
time of year the ITCZ marks the boundary affected by depressions moving east across the
between the SW monsoon of the Indian Ocean and Mediterranean.
the prevailing NW winds of the northern Red Sea. Although the Red Sea winds are on average light
During these summer months NW winds blow to moderate, periods of complete calm do occµr,
down the entire length of the Red Sea merging into sometimes for several days at a time. No tropical
the SW monsoon in the Gulf of Aden. storms have been recorded in any part of the Red
In winter the ITCZ.lies well to the south of this Sea. There are, however, two strong winds occur-
region, but there is another unrelated convergence ing in this region. The haboob is a short squall of
zone which lies around 18 "N from October to May over 35 knots blowing off the coast of Sudan
.and marks the boundary between the SE winds in between S and W, raising lots of sand and dust.
the southern part of the Red Sea and the NW winds Haboobs occur particularly in the Port Sii.dan area
of the northern section. This convergence zone is and are most common between July and
usually marked by cloudy skies in contrast to the September. The other wind is the khamsin, a strong
ubiquitous sunshine prevailing in the region as a dry S to SE wind, which blows off the land in Egypt
whole. This convergeI\ce zone is associated with and causes sandstorms. It occurs most commonly
rain and drizzle. between February and May.
SE winds predominate from October to January All of these winds, which bring sand and dust,
in all areas south of the convergence zone. From reduce visibility considerably, often to less than 100
January to May the SE winds may not penetrate feet, especially near the coast. On the other hanq,
quite as far as the zone jtself, but still predominate due to the special refraction conditions prevailing
in the most southerly areas and in the Strait of Bab in the Red Sea, land and lights are often visible for
el Mandeb. These winds are strongest from much greater distances than normal, up to 100
November to February, averaging around 20 miles away. This effect can also affect the horizon,

429
WINDS AND CURRENTS IN THE RED SEA

raising or lowering it, which can produce errors in lead to heat exhaustion in unclimatised people.
astronavigational observations, up to 20' error in Care must be exercised in this area, especially on
longitude and 10' error in latitude. This phenom- metal yachts, because the temperature of a steel
enon can affect observations taken before and after deck can easily rise to a blistering 70 'C.
noon in different ways and can produce the impres-
sion of an apparent cross-current. It is thought that Currents
refraction is less at twilight and in the early morn-
ing, so therefore the taking of star sights has been The overall direction of the currents in the Red Sea
recommended in this region. A brilliant lumines- is influenced by the monsoons in the,Indian Ocean.
cence sometimes occurs in the Red Sea making the From November until April, while the NE mon-
water appear shallower. With the presence of unlit soon is blowing, water is pushed into the Red Sea
reefs extending far offshore in several places, these and there is a predominantly N to NW setting cur-
conditions may explain why so many yachts came rent along the axis of the Red Sea. From May until
to grief in this region in the past. Satellite naviga- October, when the SW monsoon prevails over the
tion has improved safety considerably, but navi- Indian Ocean, water is drawn out of the Red Sea
gation should still be treated with due caution as and a S to SE setting current prevails. Due to the
most charts do not agree with satellite observations narrowness and shape of the Red Sea, there is a
and the positions of most dangers are therefore great variability in the currents and many lateral
approximate. currents run in and out from the main stream, par-
The Red Sea area is a hot arid region with a low ticularly near islands and reefs. These cross-cur-
rainfall. The average temperature is very high, rents occur in all months and are very variable.
around 30"C, but often reaches over 40•c in the day They are not as strong as was first believed, because f
and even temperatures exceeding so·c are not
uncommon. Temperatures are lowest in winter in
the more northerly part, dropping to 18 "C in the
many apparent cross-currents were found to be due
to errors in astronavigation produced by the refrac-
tion effect on the horizon. The strongest current is
! I
Gulf of Suez on a winter night. This contrasts with experienced in the Strait of Bab el Mandeb, reach-
ing 2 knots in the NE monsoon season. In the tran-
I
the southern areas of the Red Sea, where in August
the temperature is over 40°C by day and does not sitional months between monsoons, April and May,
J I

drop below 32 ·c even at night, which can easily or October, there is little or no current.
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430
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 20
ROUTES IN THE
RED SEA
n spite of its many attractions, good anchorages, international news on a reputable station such as
ISeaexcellent fishing, and magnificent diving, the Red
has just as many disadvantages from the cruis-
the BBC World Service.
For those who may be put off by too much paper-
ing point of view and therefore most people try and work and dealings with officials, the drastic alter-
pass through it as quickly as possible. In most cases native is to undertake a nonstop passage up or
the problems are of a political nature and countries down the middle of the Red Sea. Unfortunately
such as Saudi Arabia and Yemen do not encourage su ch a solution may be just as unattractive
yachts to visit them, while Sudan and Jordan only because of the large amount of shipping and often
tolerate them. The reception in Egypt depends unfavourable wind. Because of all these factors,
entirely on the current situation, which can change most sailing boats that pass through the Red Sea
from day to day, although the transit of the Suez compromise by alternating offshore legs with
Canal itself is normally dealt with efficiently. coastal cruising in daily hops. The method has
An area worth exploring by those with time on much to commend it as it is less trying for the crew
their hands is the Gulf of Aquaba. Three of the four than a nonstop passage and is also safer, because
countries bordering this narrow stretch of water, many of the numerous navigational hazards can be
·Egypt, Jordan, and Israel, have ports of entry at avoided in this way. The average time in w hich the
Sharrn el Sheik (27"5l'N, 34 ·17'E), Aquaba (29"3l'N, entire length of the Red Sea can be navigated in this
35 ·oo'E), and Eilat (29'33'N, 34 '57'E). The notable manner is between three and four weeks.
exception is Sauo·FAi'.iioi1t, which IPOSitively<dis.. Because coastal cruising is outside the scope of
r,<;om:_anges.wi~t~i,Y::Yacht;l'not justTii"th'e ·G;ilf ~f this book, only the offshore passages are described
Aquaba,butinywhere o~-ltS coasts. Cruising boats
0

in detail. However, as some of the distances may

that have strayed into Saudi waters in the past have be covered in shorter stages all relevant charts
been turned firmly away. So while this situation should be carried on board. Reefs and other dan-
continues Saudi ports should be avoided. gers are well marked, par ticularly on British
A significant change has occurred in Eritrea, Admiralty charts, and navigation among the reefs
where the coming of peace after the prolonged war is not difficult in good Hght. Eyeball Qavigation is
with Ethiopia has made it again possible to not as difficult as it would appear, and provided the
include this area into one's cruising plans. For all time of arrival is planned carefully, so as to have
the above reasons, the political.sHuation in the bor- good light when entering a reef anchorage, navi-
dering countries should be followed carefully gating among the coastal reefs should present no
before arriving in.the Red Sea to know if there are great problem. When seeking an anchorage for the
any areas which should be avoided. As the night it is advisable not to leave this untii too late
Middle East is one of the most volatile regions of in the afternoon because the lower sun casts a sheen
the world, the current situation should be moni- over the water obscuring dangers which otherwise
tored continuously by listening regularly to the are easily seen.

431
 ROUTE S I N T H E RED SEA

RN NORTHBOUND ROUTES
RNl Bab el Mandeb to Port Sudan 433
RN2 Bab el Mandeb to Massawa 435
RN3 Bab el Mandeb to Hodaida 435
RN4 Port Sudan to Suez 436
....

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432
 RN NORTHBOUND ROUTES

Regardless of the time of year, northbound boats legend among sailors, it must be pointed out that
usually have to contend with contrary winds for at winds do not always follow the axis of the sea and,
least half their passage up the Red Sea. Therefore although forced to tack, boats can usually choose
it is difficult to recommend a preferred time of year, a more favourable tack. Another observation
especially as the Red Sea passage is usually a con- worth bearing in mind is that the wind tends to
tinuation of a voyage, the timing of which has been shift with the sun, being more NNE in the morn-
decided by other factors. Most boats undertake ing and NW in the afternoon. During the EUROPA
their !!_Orthbound voyage at-the end of winter, Round the World Rally, in March 1992, all boats in
between February and A~l, usually after having the Racing Division managed to sail the entire dis-
crossed the North Indian Ocean during the NE tance between Port Sudan and Suez, some of the
monsoon. Although NW winds prevail in the boats with good windward performance having to
northern half of the Red Sea throughout the year, tack very little by using the slant of the winds to
these tend to be lighter in spring than in winter, best advantage and covering the distance in
making April one of the best months for the north- remarkably fast times. Even some of the boats in
bound voyage. Another advantage of a late March the Cruising Division coped with the contrary
or April passage is that the Mediterranean is winds well and, as they were allowed to use their
reached as the weather starts getting warmer and engines, good times were recorded by motorsail-
the cruising season begins. Although the head- ing at the most efficient angle whenever possible.
winds of the Red Sea have become something of a

RNl Bab el Mandeb to Port Sudan

Very few boats choose to continue their voyage facilities there, Djibouti has become the more pop-
from the Indian Ocean into the Red Sea without ular port of call. Djibouti has reasonable repair
stopping and the distinctly narrow choice is facilities, good provisioning, and an active yacht
between Aden and Djibouti. Because of the uncer- club. It also has regular flights to Paris, which
tain situation in Aden, and the limited range of makes it a good port for crew changes.

433
ROUTES IN THE R ED SEA

The weather at the recommended time is usual- Island . It is close to this point that the main route
ly favourable with a north-setting current in the is left by boats bound for either Massawa in Eritrea
Strait of Bab el Mandeb and southerly winds pos- (route RN2), or Hodaida in Yemen (route RN3).
sibly as far as the latitude of Port Sudan. From the Zubair Islands the trunk route contin-
Boats leaving Djibouti for the Red Sea should ues in a NW direction past Jabal at Tair, whose
pass to the east of the Musha Islands and clear the powerful light is an excellent reference while nego-
headland of Ras Bir by at least 10 miles before alter- tiating a safe course between the vari.ous dangers
ing course for the Strait of Bab el Mandeb (Gates that front both shores of the Red Sea, the width of
of Sorrow). The Djibouti coast to the west of the the fairway being about 60 miles in.this area. From
Musha Islands, as well the area facing Bab el WP RN14, west ofJabal atTair, a new course is set
Mandeb, should not be approached too closely as for WP RN15 so as to avoid both the Farasan
vessels have been molested by rebels during dis- Islands on the Saudi side and the Dahlach Bank off
putes with the central Djibouti government. Boats the Eritrean coast. For those who do not wish to
leaving from Aden have a clear run to the strait. take the inshore route to Port Sudan, the route con-
Whether coming from Djibouti or Aden, boats pass- tinues to WP RN16, east of the light on Masamirit
ing through the strait should do so west of Perim Islet, which should be approached from the SE and
Island. A traffic separation zone is in operation in passed on its east side because of the dangerous
the strait and northbound vessels must keep to the area south of it. The course can then be altered for
starboard side. Perim Island should not be passed WP RN17, north of Hindi Gider light, so as to pass
unnecessarily close because it is a restricted area. outside the numerous reefs that litter this area.
For the same reason, Small Strait east of Perim There follows a final course alteration· for WP
Island should only be used in an emergency. An RN18, south of Wingate Reef, at the entrance into
anchorage used occasionally by boats waiting for Port Sudan. Boats which do not intend to stop in
either daylight or favourable winds to pass Port Sudan should continue on their offshore route
through Bab el Mandeb is located in a small bay off by setting a course from WP RNl 6, off Masamirit
the Yemeni coast, NE of Bab el Mandeb in approx- Light, for WP RN43. The continuation of the route
imate position 12 '43'N, 43'35'E. In principle, the to Suez is described in RN4.
anchorage should only be used by boats that have Before entering Port Sudan, Port Sudan Radio
cleared into Yemen at Aden. should be contacted on VHF channel 16 to advise
The 200 miles from Bab el Mandeb to Jabal at Tair the boat's name, nationality, and ETA. Having
Island; which has a powerful light on it, can be entered the port, the boat should proceed to the
made either nonstop or in shorter stages by yacht anchorage in the NW part of the harbour
anchoring at one of the two island groups en route. (19'36.S'N, 37'13.4'E), and wait to be visited by
If the winds are favourable it is advisable to make quarantine and security officials. Other formalities
as much northing as possible while they last, rather will have to be completed in East Town, where the
than stop in the islands. Both Hanish and Zubair Port Authority's offices are located .
Islands belong to Yemen, and although anchoring For those who prefer to cover some of the dis-
by yachts in transit is usually tolerated, landing is tances south of Port Sudan in shorter stages by sail-
prohibited. In poor visibility or heavy weather it ing inside the reefs, there are two ways of
is better to pass to the east of the Hanish Islands, approaching the Sudanese coast. The first option
where dearer landmarks make it easier to avoid the is to make for Khor Nawarat, an anchorage lying
various dangers. On the other hand, Zubair very dose to the border between Eritrea and Sudan.
Islands should be passed on their west side Because of the dangerous reefs and islets in the
where there are no offlying dangers. Suakin Group and the reportedly unpredictable
From WP RN10, west of Perim Island, in the currents, Khor Nawarat should be approached with
Strait of Bab el Mandeb, a course should be set for extreme caution and only if the vessel's position
WP Ri"\/11, to stay with the northbound traffic. From has been confidently established. To reach the area,
that point it is easier to set a course which stays east the main route described above is left at WP RN15
of the Hanish Islands by making for WP RN12, east from where a course should be set for WP RN19,
of Zuqar Island. The route passes through Abu Ail south of Dohrat Abid, at the start of the channel
Channel, between the rock of that name and Zuqar passing between the various reefs in the Suakin
Island, and heads for WP RN13, WSW of Zubair Group.

434
 RN NORTHBOUND ROUTES

An alternative way to reach the Sudanese coast sage, reasonably well beaconed, leads both from
is to pass close to the south of Masamirit Islet and Khor Nawara t and Trinkitat to Port Sudan. An
make for Trinkitat harbour by threading one's way interesting stop on this inshore route is the aban-
carefully through the various reefs. An inshore pas- doned city ofSuakin.

RN2 Bab el Mandeb to Massawa

Similar directions apply as for route RNI as far as Ethiopia and the declaration of independence by
Zuqar Island. Having negotiated Abu Ail Channel, Eritrea, the Eritrean authorities are encouraging
on the NE side of Zuqar, a course is set first for WP tourism and cruising boats are welcome to call there.
RN24 and then RN25, at the entrance into South Northbound boats can regain the offshore route
Massawa Channel. This channel, between the either by using the same South Channel, or they can
African mainland and Dahlach Island, leads into take the longer North Massawa Channel, which
Massawa (Mits' iwa), Eritrea's main port. runs parallel to the coast in a northerly direction.
As a result of the cessation of hostilities with

RN3 Bab el Mandeb to Hodaida

435
 ROUTES IN THE RED SEA

Boats bound for Hodaida should follow the same tered natural harbour in which the port of Hodaida
directions as for route RNJ until level with Zuqar occupies the southern extremity. A 10 mile long
Island. From WP RN32 a course can be sailed which buoyed channel leads into Hodaida, whose Port
passes to the east of Abu Ail rock. To avoid the var- Control should be contacted on VHF channel 16 to
ious dangers, from WP RN32 the course should be advise ETA, name of vessel, and other details
altered for WP RN33, so that landfall is made off before permission is given to proceed into the port.
Ras Kathib. This is the northern point of a long and The Yemeni capital Sanaa is easily reached over-
narrow peninsula that has created a perfectly shel- land from Hodaida. •'
.•

RN4 Port Sudan to Suez

11
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North from Port Sudan, boats bound for Egypt and Having left Port Sudan, from WP RN40, south of
I: the Suez Canal have the same choice as before and Wingate Reef, an initial course is set to WP RN41,

I
can either stay inside the reefs or sail offshore. The east of Sanganeb Reef. The course is then altered
best area for day sailing starts immediately to the for WP RN42, east of Abington Reef, where the off-
north of Port Sudan, with several well protected shore route coming up from Masamirit Light is
inlets among the reefs. Compared to the southern joined. A useful landmark on this offshore route is
half of the Red Sea, the north has fewer offshore Gezirat Zabargad, a high rocky islet off Foul Bay,
dangers and the direct route has a clear run all the an area which is best avoided even by those who
JI way to Daedalus Reef (24 '56'N, 35'52'E). The rec- have been coastal sailing to this point. The route
'. I ommended route runs roughly parallel to the axis
of the Red Sea, although it favours the Sudanese
passes east of Zabargad.
North of Foul Bay, longer offshore legs become
/I I side in case the decision is taken to head for the
coast and seek temporary shelter in one of the
increasingly necessary as there are fewer safe
anchorages along the Egyptian coast. From WP
many inlets. RN44, west of Daedalus Reef, the route continues
I
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 RS SOUTHBOUND ROUTES

in a NW direction towards the Brothers, which are meant as guidelines.

passed on their east side. A safe all weather anchor- The Suez Canal Authority should be contacted
age can be found at nearby Hurghada (27'13.S'N, on VHF channel 16 to give an ETA. If Suez Bay is
33 '50.7'E), where it is also possible to clear into reached during the night it is recommended to
Egypt. From Hurghada the Gulf of Suez can be anchor either off the main channel or in the wait-
reached via Tawila Channel, which avoids a ing area in Port Ibrahim and wait for daylight
detour past Shaker Island and the Strait of Guba!. before passing through the heavy traffic to the Suez
From WP RN45, east of the Brothers, the offshore Canal Yacht Club. As the yacht club is in the Suez
route heads for the Strait ofGubal, which is entered Canal area, yachts should not pr.oceeed there with-
at WP RN46, east of Shaker Island. From WP RN47 out permission from the Canal Authority. If not
the route runs down the middle of the Gulf of Suez using the yacht club the recommended anchorage
passing through an intermediate WP RN48, off Ras for yachts intending to transit the Canal is just
Shukeir. Landfall is finally made at WP RN49, in inside the southern breakwater in Port Ibrahim.
the approaches to Suez. Navigation through the The breakwater can be passed either west or east
narrow Gulf of Suez can be daunting, dtie to the and the anchorage is at its eastern end, close to the
numerous oil rigs, heavy shipping, and the usually entrance into the North Basin. A shipping agent or
contrary wind. The problem is exacerbated by the his representative will arrive in his launch soon
presence of many disused oil platforms, some of after Suez Bay has been entered offering to make
which are not marked by lights. Traffic separation arrangements for transiting the Suez Canal.
lanes are in operation for the entire length of the Agency fees are extremely competitive and skip-
Gulf of Suez, with northbound traffic using the pers are advised not to accept an offer before a fee
right hand lane. Sailing boats, especiaHy if they has been agreed. Agents normally deal with all for-
need to tack, or if motorsailing to windward, nor- malities, both for.entry into Egypt and for transit-
mally fare better by favouring the eastern side of ing the Canal. See also page 491 concerning the
the narrow Gulf. It must also be stressed that the transit through the Suez Canal.
waypoints listed for the Gulf of Suez are only

RS SOUTHBOUND ROUTES
RSl Suez to Port Su.d an 438
RS2 Port Sudan to Gulf of Aden 440
The best time for a southbound passage through bound passage across the North Indian Ocean the
the Red Sea depends on just as many factors as a SW monsoon, which blows from May to October,
northbound voyage, although weather condi- ensures the most favourable winds, although these
tions are invariably better. The most pleasant time may be too strong at the height of the monsoon in
to head south is probably during the sprin·g July and August when a high proportion reach gale
months, from February to April, when the weath- force. For this reason, and also the unbearable heat,
er is becoming warmer in the northern areas and the summer months in the Red Sea are best avoid-
it is not too hot in the southern section. At this time ed. Therefore, if a southbound passage cannot be
favourable winds can be expected to last at least as undertaken towards the end of the NE monsoon,
far as the latitude of Port Sudan. From May the only alternative is to do it during the autumn
onwards winds from the NW should be carried the transitional period. However, due attention must
entire length of the Red Sea. The timing of this pas- be paid to the risk of cyclones in the Arabian Sea,
sage usually depends on the destination after the as their highest frequency coincides with the same
Red Sea, and the weather in the North Indian transitional periods. See also routes IN33, IN34,
Ocean must be taken into account. For an east- IT22, and IT23 (pages 379, 380, 390 and 393).

437
ROUTES IN THE RED SEA

RS Southbound routes

RSl Suez to Port Sudan

438
 RS SOUTHBOUND ROUTES

Because favourable winds are much more likely to RS13, east of Shaker Island. From there a course is
be encountered on southbound passages, most set to pass east of the Brothers through WP RS14
boats cover as much as possible of the Red Sea in and on to WP RS15, west of Daedalus Reef. The
long offshore legs and, in contrast to northbound route then crosses the mouth of Foul Bay where an
boats, coastal hopping is less common. Because intermediate WP RS16 is used to pass at a safe dis-
traffic separation lanes are in operation for the tance west of Gezirat Zabargad, a high rocky islet.
entire length of the Gulf of Suez, the intermediate From the Strait of Guba! to WP RS16 the route
waypoints listed above are only meant as a guide- favours the western shore where an anchorage can
line. Sailing boats normally fare much better by be found in many sheltered bays or inlets.
keeping away fro.m the traffic by favouring the east Having passed Foul Bay, the offshore route heads
side of the narrow Gulf. At the southern end of the for WP RS17, east of Abington Reef. From this
Gulf of Suez, several miles can be saved by sailing point, boats bound for Port Sudan leave the off-
through either Zeit or Tawila Channels which lead shore route and head in a SW direction. Boats con-
to the anchorage at Hurghada. If an inshore pas- tinuing nonstop on an offshore route should alter
sage is preferred south of Foul Bay, a convenient course for WP RS22, east of Masamirit Light (see
place to go behind the reefs is at Ras Hadarba, close routeRS2).
to the border between Egypt and Sudan. The entire To reach Port Sudan, from WP RS17, the course
distance from there to Port Sudan can be covered is altered for WP RS18, east of Sanganeb Reef and
mostly in sheltered waters where safe anchorages finally to WP RSl 9, south of Wingate Reef, at the
are easily found every night. entrance into Port Sudan. Before entering the har-
Taking WP RS10, south of Suez Bay, as a point of bour, Port Sudan Radio should be contacted on
departure, the offshore route runs along the axis of VHF channel 16 to advise the boat' s name, nation-
the Gulf of Suez as far as WP RSll, off Ras Shukeir. ality, and ETA. Having entered the port the boat
This first section is the most difficult because of the should proceed to the yacht anchorage in the NW
heavy traffic and also the oil platforms that are to part of the harbour (19 '36.5'N, 37°13.4'E), and wait
be found everywhere in the Gulf of Suez, many of to be visited by quarantine and security officials.
those no longer in use not being marked by lights. Other formalities will have to be completed in East
Having reached WP RS12, at the northern entrance Town, where the Port Authority's offices are
into the Strait of Guba!, the course is altered for WP located.

439
 I,
!
ROUTES IN THE R ED SEA

RS2 Port Sudan to Gulf of Aden

Boats leaving Port Sudan bound for Bab el the African coast and Dahlach Island.
Mandeb and the Indian Ocean may take an If the winds are favourable on leaving Port
inshore route as far as either Trinkitat or Khor Sudan, the offshore route should be preferred. In
'' Nawarat. From Trinkitat the open sea is reached via this case, from·wp RS20, outside Port Sudan, the
a pass which leads due east through the reefs and initial course should go to WP RS21, so as to pass
I· islets of the Suakin Group. From Khor Nawarat, all to NE of Hindi Gider light and the various dangers
I dangers of the Suakin.Group are left to port and a to SW of it. The route then goes to WP RS22, east
safe course is set as soon as open water is reached. of Masamirit light to join the offshore route down
[ Since the cessation of hostilities between Eritrea
and Ethiopia, and the subsequent independence
the middle of the Red Sea. From this point the route
follows the axis of the Red Sea passing through WP
declaration by Eritrea, it is once again possible to RS23, halfway between Dahlach Bank, on the
sail through the waters south of Sudan. Those inter- Eritrean side, and Farasan Islands, on the Saudi .
ested in continuing on an inshore route should use side. The route continues in a SE direction to pass
11 ! North Massawa Channel to reach the Eritrean port through WP RS24, west of Jabal at Tair, a conspic-
'J
1
I'I
I
of Massawa and complete entry formalities in that
country. The open sea is then reached through the
uous island with a powerful light, which provides
a useful point of reference. Two groups of islands
I: South Channel, leading SE from Massawa between lying south of it, Zubair and Hanish Islands, offer

I 440
1::
 RS SOUTHBOUND ROUTES

shelter in heavy weather. Both island groups approaches of the Strait of Bab el Mandeb. Because
should be approached with caution as there are of a traffic separation zone in the strait, southbound
some offlying dangers. Zubair Islands are best boats should keep to the west side and make for
passed on their west side, while Jabal Zuqar and WP RS28. Having passed through Bab el Mandeb
the Hanish Islands should be passed to the east into the Gulf of Aden, the course continues to WP
paying careful attention to the various rocks in their RS29. From that point boats bound for Djibouti
vicinity. . should alter course for WP RS290 so as to pass well
Boats intending to call at Hodaida, in Yemen, clear of Ras Bir, on the African side. Rebel forces
should leave the offshore route at Jubair at Tair and have molested vessels in this area in the past and
from WP RS24 set a course for WP RS293, at the this is the reason why it is recommended to stay
landfall buoy north of Ras Kathib. This is the north- well off this coast and pass east of the Musha
ern point of a long and narrow peninsula that has Islands. One more course alteration for WP RS291
created a perfectly sheltered natural harbour in is needed to pass east of the Musha Islands and
which the port of Hodaida occupies the southern approach the port of Djibouti from the NE. The rec-
extremity. A 10 mile long buoyed channel leads into ommended yacht anchorage (11°36.S'N,43 °07.S'E)
Hodaida, whose Port Control should be contacted is off the Djibouti Yacht Club whose facilities may
on VHF channel 16 to advise ETA, name of vessel, be used by visiting boats. The various authorities
and other details before permission is given to pro- are in the nearby commercial harbour and must be
ceed into the port. The Yemeni capital Sanaa is eas- visited to complete entry formalities. ·
ily reached overland from Hodaida. From WP RS290 boats bound for Aden should
Those who do not wish to interrupt their voyage alter course for WP RS292, SW of the entrance into
should stay with the offshore route south of WP the port of Aden. A marked channel leads into the
RS24. From WP RS25, west of Zubair, a course is set Inner Harbour, where yachts anchor off the cus-
to pass through Abu Ail Channel, NE of Jabal toms dock. Boats are normally met on arrival by a
Zuqar, to WP RS26. From there the course is altered port control launch and directed to the anchorage.
to pass through WP RS27 and on to the northern

441
 21
WINDS AND '
.•

CURRENTS OF THE
MEDITERRANEAN SEA
he Mediterranean climate is on the whole
T extremely pleasant, marked by long hot sum-
mers and mild winters. Most gales and rain occur
in some places. The direction of the wind changes
not only with the time of day, but also with the ori-
entation of the coast. A reversal in the direction of
in winter months, few storms interrupting the long the wind usually occurs between early morning
summer. Local conditions vary considerably, and late afternoon. Local squalls are more frequent
.I stronger winds and squalls often resulting from where the coast is mountainous and the wind is fre-
local phenomena and not due to the overall weath- quently accelerated down valleys or between
I :, er pattern. Tropical storms do not affect this region. islands. These effects are particularly true for high
' The Mediterranean can be divided into two islands and should be borne in mind when
halves, Western and Eastern, corresponding to the anchoring in the lee of such valleys, particular!y in
two deeper basins which are separated by a ridge, Greece in the meltemi season.
running through Italy, Sicily, and Malta to the
African coast. In the summer the Western
Mediterranean comes under the influence of the
Mistral
Atlantic high pressure area centred near the 'Magistralis' meaning 'masterful' was the name
Azores, while the Eastern Mediterranean is influ- originally given to the cold dry NW wind which
I ii enced by the low pressure area east of the holds masterly sway . over the Western
Mediterranean, which is· an extension of the Mediterranean in both frequency and strength.
I'
·I Indian Ocean monsoon. As a rule weather systems Now corrupted to 'mistral' or 'maestral', these NW
move across the Mediterranean from west to east winds are formed when cold air flowing down over
and this is particularly true of depressions in the France is blocked by the heights of the Alps and is
winter months. The commonest winds over the diverted to pour into the Mediterranean via the
entire area are from the northerly sector, more from Rhone valley. The mistral blows strongly in the
the NW in the western basin, N in the Aegean and Gulf of Lions and the Gulf of Genoa, while the
I' NE in the eastern part. Well chronicled down the Rhone delta area and Marseille receive the full force
centuries are the various regional winds, which are of the mistral on almost 100 days a year. On aver-
a notable feature of Mediterranean weather. age 20 knots, the mistral is frequently stronger and
J: Close to the coast the weather is greatly affect- can reach 50-60 knots on occasion. The mistral
! ed by the height of the land and other topograph- often reaches the Balearics and Sardinia and on
ical features. Local conditions vary enormously, occasion can be felt as far as Malta and North
any prevailing wind usually being lighter near the Africa. The French Riviera east of Marseille is shel-
coast, while land and sea breezes have a strong tered by the mountains behind the coast and the
effect. The land and sea breezes are particularly mistral is felt less there.
marked in summer months and reach 20 to 30 knots The mistral blows at intervals throughout the

442
 WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

year, although it is commonest in winter, normal- reaching gale force in spring (February to May) and
ly lasting from three to six days and is typified by autumn (October to December). In summer months
clear skies. Along the Spanish coast this NW wind from June to September, the levante is shor ter and
is called the trarnontana, being strong, cold, and dry has less strength. The levante is formed when a
with many local variations. depression is situated between the Balearics and
North Africa, usually when there is a high pressure
Vendavales area over the European landmass to the north.
The levante is most common along the central
These are strong SW winds which blow between Spanish coast and can continue into the Strait of
North Africa and the Spanish coast, especially in Gibraltar, where it is funnelled to become easter-
the late autumn and early spring. These winds, ly and is known as levanter. The levante brings lower
which do not last long, can reach gale force and are temperatures and rain, which is often heavy near
associated with depressions moving across Spain the coast, while the long fetch produces heavy seas.
and Southern France. The vendavales are associat-
ed with squalls and thunderstorms, but are less
strong near the African coast and the NE coast of
Gregale
Spain. They are much stronger when funnelled These strong winds also from the NE are felt in the
through the Strait of Gibraltar. Hitting the west Central Mediterranean, on the coasts of Sicily and
coast of Sardinia and the Gulf of Genoa, these Malta and especially in the Ionian Sea. They flow
strong SW winds are called libeccio in Italian. out of high pressure areas situated over the
Balkans and are common in the winter months,
Sirocco especially in February. These winds usually blow
at gale force, are cold, and produce a heavy swell.
In general usage, this name is used to describe any The NE coast of Malta is particularly vulnerable as
winds from the south bringing hot air off the con- the main harbours are open to the NE. It was a gte-
tinent of Africa. Due to depressions moving east gale that wrecked St Paul on the Maltese coast in the
across the Sahara Desert, the sirocco blows off the first century AD.
north coast of Africa very hot and dry, often laden
with sand and dust, thus reducing visibility. As Meltemi
these winds pass across the sea, they pick up some
moisture, and so in Spain, Malta, Sicily, Sardinia, This wind is more commonly known by its
and Southern Italy the sirocco arrives at a lower Turkish name 'meltemi' than as the etesian wind,
temperature and with a higher humidity than off w hich is taken from the Greek word meaning
the African coast. In those places it is a warm hazy 'annual'. These regular winds blow steadily over
wind associated with a low layer of continuous the eastern basin of the Mediterranean all summer,
cloud. Rain falling through the dust carried by commencing in May or early June and continuing
these winds can sometimes be red or brown. until September or even October. The meltemi is at
A similar wind blows off the Arabian peninsu- its strongest and steadiest in July and August. Even
la to affect Israel, Lebanon, Cyprus, Crete, and when the meltemi is not blowing, or while it is
other southern islands in the Eastern being established in the earlier months, it is rare to
Mediterranean, particularly in the transitional peri- get winds from any other direction during this
ods betwe~n seasons, from April to June, time. Periods of calm can often occur at the begin-
September, to October. In Egypt the sirocco is called ning of the season. The meltemi has many simi-
·the khamsin, which means 50 in Arabic, because it larities with a monsoon and can be regarded as an
occurs most frequently in the 50 days following the extension of the Indian monsoon caused by the low
Coptic Easter. It usually blows at gale force for pressure area east of the Mediterranean .
about one day and is most common from February The meltemi blows from the north in the·central
to April. Later in May and June the khamsin is less Aegean, tending to be more NE in the northern
frequent but can last longer. Aegean and NW in the southern areas, extending
across the whole eastern basin, although it peters
out before reaching the southern shores. The melte-
Levante
mi is a fresh wind on average 15-20 knots, and
These NE winds blow near the Spanish coast, associated w ith fine clear weather. Often it reach-

443
WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

es up to 30 knots, especially in the afternoons and sions can be very violent as they develop rapidly
occasionally it reaches 40 knots. It is less strong in and with little warning. Some violent storms in this
the most norther!y areas and strongest in the S and area are dangerous as they are local in character,
SW Aegean. The rnelterni tends to decrease at night. arriving quickly out of a clear sky. Alt.h ough winds
from the northerly sector are commonest in winter
Western Mediterranean too, winds from all directions do occur and there
are strong gale force winds particularly from the
The summers are fine with few storms. Gale force
south. Both S and N winds are lllOre prolonged
winds do occur, but these are often generated by
than E or W winds. November to February are the
local depressions over a limited area. Because of
worst months with cold dry N to NE gales and
this they are difficult to predict and give little warn-
warm moist SE to SW gales which bring dust.
ing of their onset, as an impending gale is rarely
When a depression passes there can be a change
preceded by a meaningful change in barometric
from S to N within a few hours. At the transition-
pressure. Strong winds sucli as ve11dnvnles, sirocco,
al period between seasons, such as in April and
or levante are more common in the transitional
May, cairns can occur for several days.
months of spring and autumn. The mistral can
blow in summer but is much less frequent than at Currents
other times of the year. The commonest wind over
The Mediterranean loses more water by evapora-
this area is from the NW, except in the most
tion than it receives from rivers emptying into it,
southerly areas near the African coast, where winds
but there is a general inflow of water from the
from the E and NE are more frequent. There can be
Atlantic Ocean at all times of the year. This east-set-
calm periods for several days at a time. There is lit-
tle rain over this area in summer, except for occa- ting current is strongest through the Strait of
sional thunderstorms near some of the coasts. Gibraltar and along the North African coast, where
In winter winds are much more variable and it averages around 2 knots. After passing through
the channel between Sicily and Tunisia it gradually
gales more frequent. Depressions from the Atlantic
loses its strength as it flows eastward. There is a
track in from the west, either across France or Spain
weaker counterclockwise circulation in both of the
or through the Strait of Gibraltar. Also some local
two basins of the Mediterranean joined by an east-
depressions form in the Gulf o'f Lions or the Gulf
setting current in the Malta channel between the
of Genoa and track to the sou th, bringing strong
winds and squally weather. The mistral gales are two areas. In the western basin this current flows
more frequent in winter months and NW winds north up the west coast of Italy. It turns west along
the south coast of France and continues south down
predominate over this area. Vendnvnles and libeccio
blow especially in late autumn and early spring. In the Spanish coast. In the eastern basin, the east-set-
spite of the increased frequency of gales in winter, ting current turns north along the coast of Israel
there are also some quiet periods. Although most and Lebanon, west along the Turkish coast, and
rain falls during winter as showers, temperatures completes the circle along the northern coast of
Crete. A branch makes a counterclockwise circu-
are mild and there are frequent sunny days.
lation of the Aegean Sea, being joined in its south-
ward movement by water flowing out of the Black
Eastern Mediterranean Sea and into the Mediterranean via the Bosporus
The summers are dominated by the seasonal winds and Dardenelles. Another branch makes a coun-
from the northern quarter, which blow strongly but terclockwise circula lion of the Adria tic.
are associated with clear skies and fine weather. . Excepting the steady current along the North
Rainfall is scant and almost non-existent on the African coast, the actual currents are very variable
southern shores. The climate of the eastern basin and are affected considerably both by the direction
is a little more continental than the western or cen- and force of the wind and local conditions. For
tral areas, which means fewer fronts, less rain, and example, w hen the meltemi is blowing, a S to SW
a lower humidity. It is noted for long hot summers setting current predominates in the Central and
and short winters. Most of the rain falls in winter. Western Aegean. The strongest currents are expe-
In winter depressions track in an easterly direc- rienced in the Strait of Gibraltar, the Bosporus, and
tion either SE towards Cyprus or NE towards the Dardanelles. Other straits, such as the Strait of
Black Sea. Although small in size, these depres- Messina, are strongly affected by tidal currents.

444
 -
22
ROUTES IN THE
MEDITERRANEAN SEA
ailing conditions in the Mediterranean have able routes, far too many to be dealt with in this
S been reviled and ridiculed by modern sailors
more than in any other part of the world and the
book. Also, most of these routes involve a certain
amount of coastal cruising and so can hardly be
most repeated saying is that 'in the Mediterranean described as offshore routes. Finally, the multitudi?
one either gets too much wind or none at all, and of good harbours throughout the Mediterranean
what one gets is on the nose'. Fortunately this is not coupled with the unparalleled richness and vari-
always true and although the winds encountered ety of places to visit ashore means that most peo-
in this inland sea cannot be compared in constan- ple prefer coastal cruising. In consequence, this
cy to the trade winds of the Caribbean or Indian chapter deals primarily with the most frequented
Ocean, most offshore passages can be made under offshore routes.
sail. The Mediterranean has been plied for many In the Mediterranean, perhaps more than any-
centuries by all kinds of wind driven craft and where else, forward planning is of crucial impor-
some of the voyages of ancient time have become tance and as this book is aimed primarily at
legend. Being aware of the capricious nature of offshore sailors the routes described and sugges-
Mediterranean winds, ships used to be provided tions m ade are meant for sailors who are not nor-
with a set of sturdy oars and although slaves have mally based in the Mediterranean and for whom
gone out of fashion, diesel engines can replace them the Mediterranean is only part of a longer voyage.
perfectly well. There are two principal gateways into the
Because of its long maritime history, the weath- Mediterranean, Gibraltar being used mainly by
er of the Mediterranean is well known and this sim- sailors arriving from Northern Europe and
plifies the task for those intending to do some America, while Port Said witnesses the arrival of
forward planning. As the sailing season stretches sailors who have reached the Mediterranean
over almost nine months of the year, from early through the Red Sea and Suez Canal. The latter
March to the end of November, a lot of ground can . may be European sailors returning home at the
be covered if an early start is made. This is rec- completion of a world voyage, or sailors from other
ommended especially for those planning to make continents, from North America, Australia, New
west to east passages as westerly winds are more Zealand, or the Far East, in the midst ofa circum-
common during early spring and late autumn. navigation. Most of these sailors arrive in the
However, because weather patterns in the Mediterranean determined to see and do as much
Mediterranean are less clearly defined than in other as possible in the shortest time possible, which may
parts of the world, a 'best time' to make a partic- not be as easy as it first appears. The Mediterranean
ular passage is far less accurate than elsewhere. has been described as the ' cradle of civilisation'
With a few exceptions, the weather can rarely be and, whether one agrees with that description or
regarded as dangerous in the Mediterranean and not, there is certainly no other region of the world
the most violent storms almost invariably occur in which offers so much to see in such a concentrat-
winter, January and February being the worst ed area, from archaeological sites to historic
months. cities, beautiful islands and stunning scenery. So
The Mediterranean is crisscrossed by innumer- the main danger is in trying to cover too mueh

445
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

ground in one season and ending up by seeing sages in the opposite direction, one should allow
much less than planned. Also, the Mediterranean more time for such passages and also be prepared
is not the small lake it appears and the distance to motor through the unavoidable calms. A stop in
between Gibraltar and the Suez Canal is twice that Malta is only recommended for boats coming from
between Miami and the Panama Canal! Port Said, Cyprus, or Crete. Those coming from
Because many sailors arrive in the Mediterranean mainland Turkey or the Greek islands would do
planning to spend only one season there the fol- better to sail through the Strait of Messina and con-
lowing suggestions are aimed primarily at them. tinue north of Sicily. /
Those starting off from Gibraltar, especially if they Those planning to continue across the Atlantic
have had to cross the Atlantic to get there, are at a should attempt to be in Gibraltar not much later
certain disadvantage as the sailing season will be than the end of September so as to have sufficient
well advanced by the time they arrive. For such late time for the subsequent passage to the Canaries.
starters it is important to get to the furthest point Those intending to sail to Northern Europe will
as quickly as possible. As one can never be com- find that weather conditions in autumn are rarely
pletely sure what kind of winds to expect, it is wise favourable and, rather than fight the elements, it
to cover as many miles as possible early on so as is probably wiser to leave the boat in the
to have time in hand for the rest of the cruise. Such Mediterranean for the coming winter. There are
a tactic is particularly important if one wishes to indeed plenty of good ports and marinas where this
cruise in the Eastern Mediterranean, in which case can be done at a competitive price. Similarly,
one should attempt to sail with as few stops as pos- American sailors should seriously consider leav-
sible to Northern Greece so as to arrive there before ing their boat in the Mediterranean between sea-
the onset of the strong northerly winds of summer. sons, sailing their boats across the Atlantic during
These winds will then ensure favourable sailing one summer, then finding a suitable place to leave
conditions while exploring the delights of the the boat for the coming winter. This then leaves
Aegean Sea, whether among the Greek islands or them free to return early the following season and
on the Turkish mainland. be poised to start cruising as early as April. They
Gibraltar is an excellent port in which to prepare then have nearly six months of Mediterranean
for an eastbound passage and, although the current cruising before preparing for a return voyage via
is always favourable, it is worth waiting for a spell the Canaries and Caribbean.
of westerly winds before leaving. The Eastern Sailors reaching the Mediterranean by way of the
Mediterranean can be reached by either going Red Seit are in a much better position as they nor-
north or south of Sicily. If the destination is the mally transit the Suez Canal in March or April, thus
Ionian Sea, or parts of Greece which are easier arriving in the Eastern Mediterranean at the best
reached through the Corinth Canal, it is better to possible time. Having reached that area so early,
sail north of Sicily and through the ~trait of they can visit first Cyprus and Eastern Turkey, and
Messina. Otherwise, a southern route, which pos- possibly Israel as well, before following the earli-
sibly calls at Malta, is to be favoured if the desti- er suggestion and make for the Northern Aegean
nation is in Crete, Cyprus, or Port Said. A logical by June. From there on, the same itinerary will be
decision is to start a cruise in the northern part of followed as the one sailed by boats that have come
the Aegean in late spring or early summer, after from the Atlantic.
which the summer can be spent exploring the With more time at one's disposal, and this nor-
Eastern Mediterranean. By August one should start mally means more than one year, unless one is able
moving westward and, if neither Malta nor the to move very fast, other areas of the Mediterranean
Balearics were visited on the outward voyage, they can be explored, from the French Riviera to North
can easily be included on the return route to Africa, or the increasingly popular Black Sea, where
Gibraltar. the gradual easing of restrictions in the former
In the Eastern Mediterranean favourable norther- Communist countries has opened new cruising
ly winds are common throughout the summer, but areas to those ambitious enough to reach them.
by early autumn the winds become more variable,
and prolonged calms are frequent, especially on The Adriatic Sea
passages to Malta. Because westbound passages
have fewer chances of favourable winds than pas- CRUISING GUIDES: Adriatic Pilot.

446
 ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

The war in former Yugoslavia put out of bounds crowded during the peak holiday months of July
one of the most attractive cruising areas in Europe. and August, when more secluded anchorages
While hostilities appear to have spared most of the should be sought out. As the safe cruising season
offshore islands, it will be many years before this extends from March to November it is possible to
coastline returns to normality. The small coastline visit most harbours either before or after the great
of Slovenia has been largely unaffected by the war summer invasion. This may be also the time to visit
waged by its neighbours, while Croatia is making some of the adjacent areas, such as Istanbul or the
determined efforts to attract cruising boats once Black Sea.
again to its attractive coastline. Foreign boats have When the meltemi is blowing strongly offshore,
started trickling back but nowhere in the huge violent gusts often occur in the lee of high ground.
numbers seen in the past. While the present situ- Accelerated down the land, this can produce 40-50
ation continues no one should enter that area before knots of wind very suddenly in an area previous-
having obtained confirmation that it is safe to do ly calm. This effect occurs particularly on steep
so. Albania itself is also slowly coming out of the southern coasts, both ofislands and the mainland.
cold and yachts which have stopped in one of the The meltemi is also funnelled through straits,
Albanian ports have been allowed to spend a short ravines, and between islands. When sheltering on
time there. Compared to the diversity of Croatia, a southerly coast during a northerly gale this
the east coast of Italy has very little to offer and squally effect must be allowed for.
there is only a limited number of safe harbours
along the en tire coast. The Marmara and Black Sea
i Because of its narrowness and other specific fac-
r CRUISING GUIDES: Black Sea Cruising Guide.
r tors, weather conditions in the Adriatic tend to be
very localised. The most dangerous wind is the Most boats reach this area from the SW, island hop-
I born, a violent northerly wind that occurs mostly ping through the Aegean, although a few boats

!
[
in winter. There is a north-setting current along the
eastern shore which can be used to advantage when
making northbound passages. It is generally
advisable to favour the eastern shore when bound
in either direction, because of the availability of
arrive in the Black Sea by way of the Danube. The
passage through the Aegean should be undertak-
en in spring, before the onset of the melterni, when
winds are either light or non-existent and one must
be prepared to motor. Because of the strong out-
sheltered anchorages. flowing current in the Dardanelles, tacking against
a NE wind is almost impossible, the task made even
more difficult by the large amount of shipping. A
The Aegean Sea weak counter-current is usually felt on the
CRUISING GUIDES: Greek Waters Pilot, Saronic, European side of the strait, which should be
Turkisli Waters Pilot. favoured as far as Chanakkale, where it is com-
The islands of the Grecian archipelago and the pulsory to cross to the Asian side to clear into
Turkish coast of Asia Minor offer a great variety of Turkey. The rest of the Dardanelles and the cross-
cruising opportunities and this is reflected in the ing of the Sea of Marmara is best done h1 daily
large number of sailing boats that ply the Aegean stages, both because of the amount of shipping and
each summer. Navigation rarely presents any real the usual lack of wind at night.
problems, there are countless safe harbours and Passing through the Bosporus should only be
anchorages, all dangers are clearly marked on attempted in daylight and the European side of the
charts and even the traditional rivalry between strait should be favoured where a weaker counter-
Greece and Turkey affects visiting sailors only in current will be found. A thick haze often occurs on
a tangential way. summer mornings, which makes navigahon very
Ideally, the Aegean should be cruised from north difficult in the strait due to the large number of
to south, and because of the prevailing northerly ships.
winds of summer it is recommended to arrive in the Until not so long ago, cruising in the Black Sea
Northern Aegean before the end of May so as to used to be limited to a few Turkish ports and the
benefit from a favourable wind for the following designated ports of entry of the other countries:
three months. The ever increasing popularity of Bulgaria, Romania, and the Soviet Union. The fall
these cruising grounds makes most ports very of Communism has certainly brought about an

447
ROUTES JN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

opening up of all those countries, but unfortunately sunny, with winds predominantly from the NW or
foreign cruising boats are still submitted to endless W formed by the same system which generates the
formalities. Bulgaria and Romania are now wel- meltemi. In winter tl1e weather is much colder,
coming cruising yachts openly but in both Russia especially in more northerly parts where ice can
and the Ukraine foreign yachts are supposed to occur. Very variable conditions prevail in the tran-
arrive only after having received an official invi- sition months, April-May and September-October,
tation by either a yacht club or a shipping agency. the winds changing quickly both in force and direc-
In all these countries tourist visas should be tion. Local effects as well as land and sea breezes
obtained in advance for every crew member. One are well marked. In the Dardanelles and Bosporus
of the most attractive Black Sea countries is NE winds are the most frequent as there is a gen-
Georgia, but civil war in this former Soviet repub- eral airflow from the Black Sea into the Aegean. If
lic has made it into a no-go area for foreigners. the wind is not blowing from the NE in these nar-
The Black Sea enjoys a climate very similar to the rows it is usually from the opposite SW direction.
Mediterranean in summer, being mainly fine and

MlO MEDITERRANEAN ROUTES

FROM GIBRALTAR
MU Gibraltar to the Balearics 449
M12 Gibraltar to Sicily 450
M13 Gibraltar to North Africa 450
M14 Gibraltar to Malta 452
With the Strait of Gibraltar safely behind them, consider leaving Gibraltar is during strong easterly
eastbound boats have a much easier task when winds. Generally, winds tend to be funnelled either
leaving Gibraltar than boats setting off in the oppo- west or east in the strait. At Gibraltar westerly
site direction. The only time when one should not winds predominate in winter and easterly in

~4
CORSICA 'tY

~SARDINIA
M12 if!:IJ.

448
 MlO MEDITERRANEAN ROUTES FROM GIBRALTAR

summer. Levanters are more frequent from July to and haze. Vendavales also occur most frequently
October and can blow for up to 15 days at a time, from November to March. In the Jee of the Rock the
although not always too strongly, their average wind causes eddies blowing strongly from differ-
strength being around 15 knots. In winter the lev- ent directions only a short distance apart.
anter is shorter but stronger, bringing rain, clouds,
Mll Gibraltar to the Balearics

From any of the marinas or the anchorage near Espaimador lsiet. The currents in the ch annels are
Gibraltar airport, boats should make their way to strong and often set against the prevailing wind,
Europa Point and WP Mlll, south of that remark- which can result in rough seas in strong winds.
able landmark. From that point the recommended Under such circumstances it is better to pass east
route runs parallel to the Spanish coast keeping at of Formentera, which is also the recommended pro-
least 20 miles. offshore where steadier winds will cedure if one is bound directly for Palma de
be found. Along the entire length of the Spanish Maliorca. In this case, from WP113 a course is set
coast there are several good harbours in which shel- for WP Ml 15, off the SE point of Formentera. From
ter can be sought in bad weather. A favourable east- there, boats bound for Ibiza should alter course for
setting current is felt at least as far as Cabe de Gata, WP M116, outside Ibiza harbour, whereas those
which is passed at a distance of approximately 10 bound for Mallorca should set a course for WP
miles to the south through WP M112. From this M117, in the Bay of Palma in the app roaches to
point the route turns N E passing dose to Cabe de Palma de Mallorca. There are several marinas in
Palos through WP Mll3. It is at this point that boats Palma and the most convenient, nearest to the town
bound for ports further up the Spanish coast should centre, is run by the Real Club Nautico, located in
continue on a route parallel with that coast, where- Darsena San Pedro, in the eastern part of the port.
as boats bound for the Balearics head offshore for The club monitors VHF channel 9 permanently.
WP M114, if the intention is to call first at Ibiza, in Arriving yachts should go to the reception dock to
which case the recommended route passes west of be assigned a berth. Club de Mar, located inside
Formentera. WP M114 is five miles west of Porto Pi, in the western part of the harbour, is a
Espalmador Islet and there are several deep chan- much larger marina but further from town.
nels between the southern extremity of Ibiza and

449
 I
i ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA
I
I M12 Gibraltar to Sicily

1:

1:

11
:J

/1
.,
11

11

,,I The same route, and similar directions as for route

Mll should be followed as far as Cabo de Gata.
In the Strait of Messina the wind tends to blow
either in a northerly or southerly direction along
I
From there the route continues in an easterly direc- the axis of the strait. Sometimes the wind will be
i tion to WP M123, some 35 miles SW of Sardinia. At NE on the eastern side, NW on the western side,
that point, boats bound for the Sicilian capital and very light in the middle. Alternatively it can
should alter course for WP M124, off Cape Gallo, be S to SE in the southern approaches, changing
in the approaches to Palermo. Boats bound for the abruptly to NW in the northern approaches,
Strait of Messina should continue almost due east which creates a heavy sea. Violent gusts come off
to WP M125, to pass south of Vulcan Island, and the high ground, which together with strong tidal
make landfall at WP M126, off Cape Peloro, in the currents and a number of small whirlpools and
northern approaches to the Strait of Messina. eddies contribute to the strait retaining the flavour
Having reached the legendary narrows sepa· of Scylla and Charybdis of the time of Odysseus.
11 rating Sicily from mainland Italy, those intending A line of bores called tagli can occur at the change
I to stop have a choice of ports on the east coast of of tide. It is therefore essential to time one' s tran·
Sicily, although the busy port of Messina should be sit of the strait with a favourable tide.
avoided because of the continuous ferry traffic.
/'
1:
Ii
I ..
M13 Gibraltar to North Africa
l /1
I;:
 MlO MEDITERRANEAN ROUTES FROM GIBRALTAR

There is a large choice of destinations on the North M133, off Cape Tenes. From that point, the route
African shore, from the small Spanish possessions follows the North African coast closely to take
of Ceuta and Melilla all the way to the east coast advantage of the favourable current, passing
of Tunisia. The latter has become the favourite through a number of intermediate waypoints, all
cruising destination in North Africa, mainly as a of which avoid sailing into territorial waters.
result of the opening of a number of good marinas. Staying a prudent distance off the coast is also
Few boats stop in Algeria, where yachting facilities advisable to avoid the areas frequented by local
continue to be very basic. fishing boats, especially at night, as some of the
From WP M130, south of Europa Point, the route smaller boats do not show lights. One of the dan-
goes s'o uth of Alboran Island and stays close to the gers to be avoided along this route are the Sorelles
North African coast to benefit from the favourable rocks, SW of Galite Island. From WP M136, south
east-setting current. If the intention is to call at of those rocks, the course is altered for WP M137,
either Melilla or Sidi Fredj, in Algeria, the initial North of Cape Enghela. Having reached this point,
course goes to WP M131, off Cape Tres Forcas, from boats intending to call at Bizerte should alter course
where the course can' be altered for the intended for the coast, whereas those bound for Tunis should
port of destination. Sidi Fredj has a marina and is set a SE course for WP M138 so as to pass SE of Cani
reported to have the best yachting facilities in Island. From WP M138, east of Plane Island, the
Algeria. course turns due south and makes landfall at WP
Boats bound for ports further east on the M139, off Cape Carthage, in the approaches to the
Algerian coast or ports in Tunisia should also take Tunisian capital. The nearest marina is at La
a route that goes south of Alboran Island. Their first Goulette and arriving boats should make their way
WP will be M132, some ten miles south of that there to complete entry formalities.
island, from where the course is altered for WP

451
 RO UTES IN THE M EDITERRANEAN S EA

M14 Gibraltar to Malta

A more offshore route than M13 can be sailed by ous lee shore. If easterly winds persist after leav-
boats bound for Malta, unless one is determined to ing Gibraltar, either in summer or winter, better
take full advantage of the favourable east-setting conditions will be experienced by staying closer to
current along the African coast, in which case the the Spanish coast than North Africa. Such a route
same directions apply as far as WP M137, at the continues eastwards as far as the south of Sardinia
entrance into the Skerki Channel at the NE before tacking across the channel between Cape
extremity of Tunisia. Bon and Sicily.
During the summer months, from May to The direct route takes its departure from WP
September, the recommended route does not fol- M141, south of Europa Point, from where an initial
low the African shore so closely and passes north course is set for WP M142, 20 miles SE of Cabo de
of Alboran Island as the advantages to be gained Gata. From there a long offshore leg goes all the
by sailing an inshore route are probably cancelled way to WP M143 passing halfway between North
out by the disadvantages. Along the entire North Africa and Sardinia. From that point, the course
African coast, vessels should keep outside of ter- become SE and passes through the Skerki Channel
ritorial waters and also pay attention to local fish- to pass close to the north of the island of
ing boats, especially at night as many do not show Pantelleria. The course continues in almost the
lights. Westerly winds are more likely to be same direction to WP M145, east of Gozo. From
encountered along this route during the remaining there the course is altered for WP M146 so that
months of the year, from October to April, and landfall is made north of the Maltese capital.
therefore this passage is best planned either at the Arriving boats should contact Valletta Port Control
beginning or end of the season. During summer, if on VHF channels 12 or 16 before proceeding to
consistent easterly winds are met, it is usually bet- one of the reception docks at Msida Marina
ter to make the voyage in stages, stopping either or Lazaretto Creek. The Yachting Centre can be
in Spain and the Balearics, or along the African contacted on VHF channel 9 to request docking
coast. The African coast should be avoided in win- information.
,I! ter when strong northerly gales make it a danger-
1' I
/!I
;I
1· I
'j I
 M20 ROUTES FROM THE BALEARIC ISLAND S

M20 ROUTES FROM THE

BALEARIC ISLANDS
M21 Balearics to French Riviera 453
M22 Balearics to Messina Strait 454
M23 Balearics to Malta 455
M24 Balearics to Gibraltar 455

M20 Routes from the Balearic Islands

The Balearic Islands, and especially Mallorca, are est to those planning to cross the Atlantic to the
now one of the top yachting centres in the world Caribbean and for whom a stop in the Balearics at
and both docking and repair facilities are of the the end of summer has a great attraction.
highest standard. Very few cruising boats visiting Summers are hot, but winters are mild, the main
the Mediterranean miss calling at the Balearics and reason for the Balearics also being one of the main
indeed they are an attractive place to explore and tourist centres in the Mediterranean. Northerly
also an excellent place at which to prepare the boat winds predominate in summer and gale force
for a long passage. This can be of particular inter- winds are confined to the winter seasbn.

M21 Balearics to French Riviera

453
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

During the summer months the prevailing wind on Balearics, as a complete circle can b~ accomplished
this route is NW. The worst thing that can affect a by sailing from the French Riviera to Corsica and
vessel bound for the French coast is to encounter from there back to the Balearics. Such aroute also
a mistral, which can be very violent in the Gulf of uses the prevailing winds to best advantage.
Lions. The mistral affects mainly the western parts Boats leaving from Palma de Mallorca have to
of the French Riviera, ports lying east of St reach the open sea before a course can be set for a
Raphael being less affected. A direct course can be French port. Because of the prevailing summer
sailed from the Balearics to practically every port winds it is better to leave from the west of Mallorca
on the French Riviera. If a mistral is forecast it is bet- by making one' s way to Isla Dragonera, the small
ter to close with the coast immediately and then island lying off the western extremity of Mallorca.
reach the intended destination by sailing under the Having reached WP M211, boats bound for
protection of the coast, or go into one of the many Marseille can set a direct course for WP M212, in
ports to seek shelter should the weather deteriorate. the SE part of the Bay of Marseille, south of
Depending on the subsequent destination, one Pomegues Island. There are several marinas in or
should start cruising at one or the other end of the around Marseille, but for short term visitors the
Riviera. Generally it is better to make landfall at a most convenient is the one inside the old port
western port, such as Marseille, and then sail east (Vieux Port), which is located in the centre of
along the coast as far as Nice or even beyond before Marseille. This is entered between the two ancient
taking off for Corsica or Italy. Such a route is also forts, the reception dock for visitors being imme-
attractive for those planning to return to the diately on the starboard side.

M22 Balearics to Messina Strait

The route from either Mallorca or Menorca pass- Sardinia. Boats intending to stop first at Palermo
es so close to Sardinia that most.boats make a small should alter course for WP M223, off Cape Gallo,
detou.r to visit at least the southern part of this in the approaches to the Sicilian capital. Boats
island. Because of its location at the SE extremity bound for the Strait of Messina nonstop should
of the Balearics, Puerto Mahon on Menorca is a continue almost due east from WP M223 to WP
good place to leave from. From WP M221, outside M224, south of Vulcan Island, and make landfall at
Mahon, an initial course is set for WP M222, SW of WP M225, off Cape Peloro, in the northern
 M20 ROUTES FROM THE B ALEARIC ISLANDS

approaches to the Strait of Messina. weather conditions in the Strait of Messina see
Having reached these narrows separating Sicily route M12 . Boats bound for the Eastern
from mainland Italy, those intending to stop have Mediterranean and wishing to avoid Messina
a choice of ports on the east coast of Sicily. A port Strait, can do so by passing south of Sicily and pos-
to be avoided is the busy port of Messina because sibly calling at Malta (see route M23).
of the continuous ferry traffic. For more details on
M23 Balearics to Malta

Similar directions apply for this route as far as the of the Maltese capital. Valletta Port Control should
south of Sardinia as those described in route M22. be contacted on arrival on VHF channels 12or16
Having reached WP M232, between North Africa before proceeding to one of the reception docks at
and Sardinia, the course continues in a SE direction Msida Marina or Lazaretto Creek. The Yachting
and passes through the Skerki Channel, then WP Centre, which administers the various marinas in
M233, NE of the island of Pantelleria and on to WP the Maltese capital, can be contacted on VHF chan-
M234, east of Gozo. From there the course can be nel 9 to request docking information.
altered for WP M235 so that landfall is made north

M24 Balearics to Gibraltar

455
 ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRAN EAN SEA

This route should have favourable winds at least to avoid the stronger current offsl)ore. If strong
as far as Cabo de Gata. It is at that point that a con- westerly winds are encountered when approach-
trary east-setting current becomes most noticeable, ing Gibraltar it is better to seek shelter in a Spanish
and so the mainland coast should not be port along the Costa de! Sol to wait for a change
approached too soon. Boats leaving from Palma de rather than try to make head way against both con-
Mallorca, from WP M241 should set an intial course trary wind and current. See also route AN16 (page
which passes south of Ibiza and east of Formentera. 44) for details on weather conditions in the Strait
From WP M243 a new course is set to pass through of Gibraltar as well as directions for negotiating the
WP M244, well to the south of Cabo de Gata. The strait.
Spanish coast should be approached only after liaving made landfall south of the light on
Cabo de Gata has been passed as the east-going Europa Point, arriving boats should proceed to the
current is strongest in the vicinity of this cape. The customs dock, in Marina Bay, south of the runway,
I route then follows the coast of Spain closely so as to complete formalities.

~I M30 ROUTES FROM

~I MEDITERRANEAN FRANCE
M31 French Riviera to Balearics 457
M32 French Riviera to Messina Strait 458
M33 French Riviera to Malta 458
M34 French Riviera to Gibraltar 459
 M30 ROUTES FROM MEDITERRANEAN FRANCE

The French Riviera, and particularly the Cote neither the ports nor the resorts ashore are so
d'Azur, from Marseille to the Italian border, has one crowded.
of the highest concentrations of marinas in the The weather is pleasant for most of the year,
world. As to be expected, yachting facilities are of although summers tend to be hot. The Gulf of Lions
the highest standard. Sailors hailing from other is especially noted for sudden changes in wind and
parts of the world are somewhat at a loss when a weather, with very different conditions in places
decision has to be made concerning cruising along near together. The strongest wind is the mistral,
this coast. One important suggestion is to avoid which can produce unpleasant conditions. After
arriving at the height of summer, in July and the mistral, the next common wind is the marin,
August, when all ports and marinas are full and in which blows warm and moist, SE to SW off the sea,
most places it is impossible to find docking space. and although not as strong as the mistral it raises
A much better time is either late spring or early a heavy sea.
autumn, when the weather is more pleasant and
M31 French Riviera to Balearics

Marseille, or one of the ports in its vicinity, is a good departure from WP M313, east of the small island
point of departure for boats that have cruised along of Pomegues, in the SE part of the Bay of Marseille.
the French Riviera coast in a westerly direction. From that point a direct course can be sailed across
Those who may have cruised in the opposite direc- to Mallorca. Boats bound for Palma de Mallorca,
tion will take their departure from a port further should make their landfall on the NW coast of the
east, possibly as far as Menton, near the Italian island and then follow Mallorca's west coast into
border. For those starting that far east, a detour to Palma. There are a number of marinas in the Bay
Corsica has certain attractions. If sailing nonstop, of Palma, while in Palma itself the most convenient,
a convenient port of arrival in the Balearics is as it is nearest to the town centre, is the marina run
Mahon, on Menorca (route M31A). Landfall is made by the Real Club Nautico, located in Darsena San
at WP M312, off Caho Negro, from where the nar- Pedro, in the eastern part of the port. The club mon-
row channel is followed into the port of Mahon. itors VHF channel 9 permanently. Arriving yachts
Boats leaving the Riviera from further west should go to the reception dock to be assigned a
(route M31B), such as Marseille, should take their berth.

457
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

M32 French Riviera to Messina Strait

Most boats bound for the Strait of Messina and rocks and islets, although navigation through the
beyond will probably stop in Corsica on their way channels that traverse it is not too difficult.
south as the island straddles the direct route south. Having passed through the strait and regained the
Because the west coast of Corsica is more attractive open sea, from WP M323, NE of the Italian island
and has a number of good harbours, most boats of Maddalena, a direct course can be set for WP
leaving the Riviera make straight for Caivi or M324, between Panaria and Salina, in the Aeolian
Ajaccio. Favourable winds can be expected during Islands. A slight course alteration is needed to
the summer months and even the mistral blows reach WP M325, off Cape Peloro, in the northern
from the right direction, although it is usually asso- approaches to the Messina Strait.
ciated with rough seas. From WP M321, off Cap The timing of the passage through this strait sep-
Ferrat, in the approaches to the port of Nice, a direct arating Sicily from mainland Italy should be cal-
course can be sailed to WP M322, off Ajaccio. A first culated in relation to the state of the tide. The
suggested stop is at this attractive Corsican port. cu rrents through the Messina Strait depend on the
From Ajaccio the route continues around the SW tide and can a ttain over 4 knots at springs. The
coast of Corsica and reaches the Tyrrhenian Sea southgoing stream has a longer duration and this
through the Bonifacio Strait. Another suggested can be further increased by a northerly wind. Each
stop is at the small port of Bonifacio, on the north turn of the tide is accompanied by one or more tidal
side of the strait. This strait, separating Corsica bores. These waves are only dangerous to small
from Sardinia, is an intricate waterway dotted with craft if a strong wind is blowing against the tide.

M33 French Riviera to Malta

~
~
J
I
458 I
I
 M30 ROUTES FROM MEDITERRANEAN FRANCE

Favourable winds can be expected for most of this such as Nice, may prefer to sail first to Corsica, and
passage during the summer months. Depending on from there take a more indirect route (M33B) by
the port of departure, there is a choice of routes, as going through the Strait of Bonifacio and then east
one can go either east or west of Corsica. The more of Sardinia. On this route, from WP M338, east of
direct route (M33A) stays west of both Corsica and Maddalena, a direct course can be set for WP M333,
Sardinia, and is recommended especially if leaving north of Pantelleria. The two routes join at that
from one of the more western ports on the French point and continue towards WP M334, off Gozo,
Riviera. If leaving from a port such as Marseille, before the course is altered for WP M335, north of
from WP M331, east of the small island of La Valletta. Valletta Port Control should be con-
Pomegues, in the SE part of the Bay of Marseille, tacted on arrival on VHF channels 12 or 16 before
a direct course can be set for WP M332, off proceeding to one of the reception docks at Msida
Sardinia's SW point. From there, the route runs Marina or Lazaretto Creek. The Yachting Centre can
through Skerki Channel to WP M333, north of the be contacted on VHF channel 9 to request docking
island of Pantelleria. information.
Boats leaving from one of the more eastern ports,

M34 French Riviera to Gibraltar

459
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

The number of boats which sail this entire route San Antonio, on the Spanish mainland. The course
without stopping is very small, especially as the continues parallel with the Spanish coast to WP
Balearics, which straddle the direct course, are a M343, off Cabe Palos, before the course is altered
very tempting stop. Boats leaving from ports in the for WP M344, so as to pass well to the south of Cabe
eastern part of the French Mediterranean coast may de Gata and avoid the strong current that sets to the
sail a course which passes to the east of the east around that cape. The Spanish coast should be
Balearics. The direct route from more western approached only after Cabe de Gata has been
ports, such as Marseille, passes to the west of the passed as the eastgoing current is strongest in the
Balearics and stays close to the Spanish coast for vicinity of the cape. The route then follows the coast
most of its length. of Spain closely so as to avoid the stronger current
As far as the Balearics favourable winds are to offshore. The alternative, as explained above, is to
be expected throughout the summer months. The seek better winds by favouring the African coast.
chances of easterly winds in the second half of the Having made landfall south of the light on
passage are higher in late spring and autumn. Europa Point, boats intending to stop in Gibraltar
There is also a higher proportion of easterly winds should make their way to the customs dock, in
along the North African coast, so it may pay to Marina Bay, to complete formalities. The dock is
take a course which runs closer to that shore, but located south of the runway and is reached by
not close enough to be affected by the east-setting going past North Mole.
current. Those continuing into the Atlantic without
Boats leaving from Marseille and WP M341, east stopping should consult route AN16 (page 44) for
of the small island of Pomegues, in the SE part of details on weather conditions in the Strait of
the Bay of Marseille, should set an initial course for Gibraltar as well as directions for negotiating the
WP M342, to pass halfway betwen Ibiza and Cabe strait.

M40 ROUTES FROM SICILY

M41 Sicily to Greece 461
M42 Sicily to French Riviera 463
M43 Sicily to Balearics 463
M44 Sicily to Gibraltar 464
M45 Sicily to Port Said 465
Most boats on a transmediterranean passage call sage to Greece or beyond, there are several ports
at a Sicilian port or at least sail through the Messina south of the Messina Strait. The small port at
Strait on their way to their destination. Situated at Taormina has the advantage of not only being close
the crossroads of several offshore routes, Sicily has to the strait, but also convenient for visiting Mount
plenty of good ports in which to make a longer or Etna.
shorter stop. For boats preparing to leave on a pas-

460
 M40 ROUTES FROM SICILY

M40 Routes from Sicily

In summer a strong sea breeze blows onshore in the whirlpools and eddies contribute to the strait
daytime in Sicily, being NE at Palermo, NE to Sat retaining the flavour of Scylla and Charybdis as
Syracuse, and S to SW at Agrigento, on the south experienced by Odysseus. Mirages of a multiple
coast. In the Strait of Messina the wind tends to image type are sometimes seen in the strait. The
blow either in a N or S direction along the strait, currents through the Messina Strait depend on the
depending on the prevailing conditions. Sometimes tide and can attain o'ver 4 knots at springs. The
the wind will be NE on the eastern side, NW on the southgoing stream has a longer duration and this
western side, and very light in the middle. can be further increased by a northerly wind. Each
Alternatively it can be S to SE in the southern turn of the tide is accompanied by several tidal
approaches, changing abruptly to NW in the north- bores. These waves are only dangerous to small
ern approaches, which creates a heavy sea. Violent craft if a strong wind is blowing against the tide.
gusts come off the high ground, which together The state of the tide should be assessed correctly
with strong tidal currents and a number of small so as to transit the strait with a fair tide.

M41 Sicily to Greece

461
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

Having passed through the Strait of Messina, boats Those who prefer to continue towards the Corinth
bound for the Aegean can reach it either through Canal may clear into Greece further east, such as
the Corinth Canal (route M41A), or by rounding the in the port of Patras, close to the western entrance
southern tip of the Peloponnese (route M41B). The to the canal
northern route has the advantage of reaching ports From WP M411, south of the Messina Strait, boats
in the Saronic Gulf as well the central islands of the sailing the sou thern route can set a direct course for
Aegean more directly. This is particularly impor- WP M414, SW of Sapientza Island. From this point, i
tant in summer, when the rneltemi is blowing
strongly and contrary winds can make it very dif-
the route goes around the three fingers of the
Peloponnese by passing through WPs M415,
r
ficult to reach the same islands if coming from the M416, and finally reaching M417. The last way- f
SW. In spring and autumn the southern route is an point, off Cape Malea, is at the SW extremity of the
acceptable alternative. The latter is also to be pre- Aegean Sea, with its multitude of destinations. r
ferred if bound for Crete, Rhodes, or points further Boats bound for Crete (route M41C) should leave i
east. the above route at WP M415 and set a new course
Once the strait has been left safely behind, from for WP M418, south of Antikithera Island. From
WP M410, off the port of Messina, the initial course there, the route runs parallel to the north coast of fI
goes due south to WP M411, off Capo dell' Armi. Crete to WP M419, west of Dhia Island, in the
Boats sailing the northern route should alter course approaches to Iraklion, the main port and capital i
for WP M412, south of Cape Spartivento. From that of Crete. Boats should proceed into the old f
point a direct course can be set across the Ionian Sea Venetian harbour, where there are a number of pon-
for WP M413, n orth of Zante Island in the toons for yachts. If there is no free space cruising !.
approaches to the Gulf of Patras. Those who wish boats may use the quay immediately to the east of r
~
to clear into Greece can do so in the port of Zante, the small boat harbour.
on the east coast of the island of the same name. ,I

t
I.

462
 M40 ROUTES FROM SICILY

M42 Sicily to French Riviera

The direct route from the Strait of M~ssina to cult to traverse it. If a stop in Corsica is not intend-
Corsica passes through the Aeolian Islands and tra- ed and having regained the open sea, from
verses the Tyrrhenian Sea to the Strait of Bonifacio. WP424, west of Cape Pertusato, a direct course can
There are several channels leading through these be sailed for the French mainland and WP M425.
narrows, the main passage (Boca Grande) being the A good landfall is east of the island of Porquerolles
easiest to negotiate. This route is often taken by at the entrance into the Bay of Hyeres. A first stop
boats heading for the Canal du Midi at the end of can be made on Porquerolles itself, where there is
their Mediterranean cruise. With persistent NW a small harbour (43 'OO'N, 6 "12'E). Hyeres itself has
winds it is better to sail from Corsica to the near- a large marina and is one of the biggest sailing cen-
est port on the mainland French coast and make tres on the Riviera.
westing by sailing along the coast. This is also the An alternative route for those who wish to visit·
recommended practice to avoid a strong mistral, ports at the eastern extremity of the French
when conditions can be become very rough in the Riviera is to stay east of Corsica and cross to the
Gulf of Lions and it is better to wait for an improve- mainland from its northern point. In this way the
ment in one of the many harbours along this coast. NW winds of summer will be met at a better angle
Having negotiated the Strait of Messina, from and the worst of a possible mistral may also be
WP M421, in the northern approaches to the strait, avoided.
an initial course is set for WP422, west of Panaria Because of the difficulties associated with a pas-
Island. From there, the route continues to WP423, sage through the Strait of Messina from south to
off the island of Maddalena in the approaches to north, an alternative route for boats sailing from
Bonifacio Strait. This strait, separating Corsica and Greece to Corsica and Southern Frarn;e is to pass
Sardinia, is dotted with rocks and islets, although south of Sicily, thus avoiding the Messina Strait
the channels are clearly marked and it is not diffi- altogether.

M43 Sicily to Balearics

463
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEA N SEA

Most boats bound for the Balearics from Sicily take Salinas, at the SE extremity of Mallorca. From there
their departure from the Messina Strait. From WP the course is altered for WP M436, in the Bay of
M431, north of the strait, the route runs west par- Palma. There are several marinas in the Bay of
allel to the north coast of Sicily, to WP M432, south Palma, while in Palma itself the most convenient,
of Vulcan Island. The course is altered there for WP as it is nearest to the town centre, is the marina run
M433, south of Sardinia. From that point, boats by the Real Club Nautico, located in Darsena San
bound for Menorca can set a direct course for WP Pedro, in the eastern part of the harbour. The club
M434, off Cabo Negro, from where the narrow monitors VHF channel 9 permanently. Arriving
channel is.followed into the port of Mahon. yachts should go to the reception dock to be
Boats bound for Palma de Mallorca should set a assigned a berth.
course from WP M433 for WP M435, off Cape

M44 Sicily to Gibraltar

Boats that have passed through the Messina Strait shore route may be left after Cabo de Gata has been
should follow a course which runs parallel to the passed to close with the Spanish coast to avoid the
north coast of Sicily. From WP M441, off Cape stronger current offshore.
Peloro, north of Messina Strait, an initial course can The chances of easterly winds on this route are
be set for WP M442, south of Vulcan Island. The higher in late spring and autumn. The proportion
route continues almost due west to WP M443, of easterly winds is higher along the North
south of Sardinia. There follows a long offshore leg African coast, so if one has access to weather infor-
to WP M444, which has been set well to the south mation it may be better to sail a route which stays
of Cabo de Gata in order to avoid the strong cur- closer to that shore, but not close enough to be
rent that sets to the east around that cape. The off- affected by the prevailing east-setting current.

464
 M40 ROUTES FROM SICILY

Having made landfall at WP M445, south of the Those continuing into the Atlantic without
light on Europa Point, boats should make their way stopping should consult route AN16 (page 44) for
to the customs dock, in Marina Bay, to complete for- details on weather conditions in the Strait of
malities. The dock is located south of the runway Gibraltar as well as directions for negotiating the
and is reached by going past North Mole. strait.

M45 Sicily to Port Said

Favourable winds can be expected along this route set from WP M453, off the Damietta mouth in the
for most of the year. Because the current normal- Nile delta. From there the course is altered for WP
ly sets eastward along the Egyptian coast, and the M454, in the northern approaches to Port Said and
current is augmented by the waters of the Nile, the Suez Canal Because of the low, featureless
especially when the river is in flood, landfall should Egyptian coast and the shallow depths which
be made to the west of Port Said. As the water is extend several miles offshore, the position of Port
shallow throughout the area, the coast should not Said is very difficult to ascertain if landfall is made
be approached beyond the 20 fathom line which either too far east or west. The situation is further
can be followed as far as Damietta. Boats under- complicated by the occasionally strong currents in
taking this passage are usually bound for the Red the area, which can be influenced by the state of the
Sea and are only calling in Egypt because of the Nile waters. The cluster of ships at anchor is usu-
Suez · Canal. Those who wish to stop in an ally the best indication of the approaches to Port
Egyptian port before Port Said can do so at Said. The approach channel to Port Said extends
Alexandria. However, yachting facilities for visi- several miles to the north and is well marked by
tors are limited in that port and the only ones avail- buoys. It should be entered at its northern extrem-
able belong to the Alexandria Yacht Club, which is ity and no shortcuts taken because of a number of
one of the most unwelcoming clubs in the world. wrecks lying outside this channel. Small vessels are
Those who wish to visit the interior of Egypt would allowed to proceed into the harbourwifuout a pilot
do better to do it from either Port Said or Suez, and all formalities can be completed after the ves-
whose yacht clubs are much more helpful. sel has berthed at Fouad Yacht Club. This is situ-
Having transited Messina Strait, an initial ated on the eastern side of the harbour. See page
course is set from WP M451 for WP M452, off Capo 491 for details on transiting the Suez Canal.
dell' Armi. From that point a direct course can be

465
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

MSO ROUTES FROM MALTA

M51 Malta to Gibraltar 466
M52 Malta to Greece 467
M53 Malta to Rhodes 468
M54 Malta to Cyprus 469
M55 Malta to Port Said 470 i

MSO Routes from Malta

Malta's position in the centre of the Mediterranean repair facilities, and pleasant climate make it a good
makes it an ideal jumping off point for ports in wintering spot.
either the Western or Eastern Mediterranean. The summers are hot, while the winters are mild.
Yachting facilities are among the best in the Being so close to the African coast, the weather is
Mediterranean as Malta was an important yacht- very much under the influence of that large land-
ing centre long before the Balearics, Costa de! Sol, mass. The sirocco can be strong and there is also a
Greece, and Turkey became such popular cruising daily change in wind direction due to strong land
destinations. Its convenient location, excellent and sea breezes.

M51 Malta to Gibraltar

466
 M50 ROUTES FROM MALTA

The autumn is when most passages are made on WP M511, outside Valletta harbour, an initial course
this route as boats that have spent the summer in is set to pass east of Gozo. From that point (M512),
the Eastern Mediterranean are rushing west to join the route turns north and passes north of Pantelleria
the annual exodus to the Caribbean. Depending on Island through WP M513 and on to WP M514, south
the direction of the wind, the route after leaving of Sardinia. From there the course becomes west-
Malta can pass either north or south of Pantelleria erly and passes well to the south of Cabo de Gata,
Island. If strong NW winds are encountered SW of at the SE extremity of the Iberian peninsula. The
Sicily, shelter should be sought in the lee of Spanish coast should be approached only after the
Pantelleria. With persistent contrary winds it is bet- above cape has been passed as there is a strong east-
ter to head from Malta across to Tunisia and stay erly current in its immediate vicinity.
close to that coast as far as Cape Bon. After Cape Having made landfall south of the light on
Bon, the route should stay offshore to avoid east- Europa Point, arriving boats should proceed to the
setting currents on the coast of Africa. customs dock in Marina Bay, south of the runway,
In late summer, early autumn northerly winds to complete formalities. The two older marinas are
can be expected for the first half of this passage, in that bay, whereas the new Queensway Marina
while the second half has a better chance of is inside the commercial harbour, which will be
favourable easterly winds in spring and late passed on the way to customs dock. Boats sailing
autumn. During late summer calms are frequent on through the Strait of Gibraltar without stopping,
this route, especially in the vicinity of Malta. should consult route AN16 (page 44) for details on
Unless one has access to reliable weather infor- weather conditions in the Strait of Gibraltar as well
mation, the shortest route should be sailed. From as directions for negotiating the strait.

M52 Malta to Greece

467
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

Winds on this eastbound route across the Ionian route M52B is recommended in summer. Taking
Sea are variable throughout the year with the high- WP M521, outside Valletta, as the departure point
est frequency of westerly winds in winter. There is from Malta, a direct course can be sailed to WP
a preponderance of northerly winds in summer, M525, south of Zante. The south coast of that island
with light winds and calms being more common at is followed around to pass through the channel sep-
the beginning and end of summer. The most direct a rating it from the Peloponnese coast. Those who
route to the Aegean (M52A) passes south of the wish to clear into Greece at the earliest opportunity
Peloponnese and approaches the Cyclades from the can do so in the port of Zante. For those who do not
SW. Any of the three channels separating Cape wish to stop, from Zante the route continues into
Malea from Crete can be used, although the north- the gulfs of Patras and Corinth and reaches the
ernmost Elafonisos Channel, between Kithera Aegean through the Corinth Canal.
Island and Cape Ma lea, is usually favoured as it is Boats bound for Crete (M52C) should sail a more
the most sheltered from the prevailing winds. Boats southern route than M52A and use the Antikithera
taking this most direct route to the Aegean can sail Channel, south of the small island of the same
a direct course from WP M521, outside Valletta name and then continue parallel to the north coast
Harbour, to WP M522, off Cape Tainaron, on the of Crete. Landfall can be made at WP M526, off
middle finger of the Peloponnese. The course is Cape Gramvousa, at the NW extremity of Crete.
then altered for WP M523 to pass clear of the north- From there the course can be altered for WP M527
ern extremity of Kithera Island. The Aegean Sea is to pass north of Cape Spathi. Boats bound for
entered at the last waypoint (M524), off Cape Iraklion should continue as far as WP M528, west
Malea, from where one has the choice of a multi- of Dhia Island, in the approaches to the Cretan cap-
tude of destinations. ital. Boats should proceed into the old Venetian har-
Because of the constancy of the northerly winds bour, where there are a number of pontoons for
in the Aegean during summer, between the mid- yachts. If there is no free space cruising boats may
dle of June and the end of August it is more con- use the quay immediately to the east of the small
venient to approach the Cyclades from the NW boat harbour.
rather than SW, as described above, and therefore

M53 Malta to Rhodes

,r
}

468
 M50 ROUTES FROM MALTA

The island of Rhodes is a useful starting point for a route will avoid the swell encountered in the
cruises in Eastern Turkey and this passage from Southern Aegean during summer, but may Jose the
Malta is usually made at the start of summer when winds in the Jee of Crete. When sailing in the lee
winds on this route are variable. Better winds are of that island, especially during July and August,
experienced in summer when northerly winds pre- when the meltemi is blowing strongly in the
vail for most of the distance. There are two routes Aegean, violent gusts occasionally blow down the
that can be sailed from Malta to Rhodes, and each steep slopes on the south coast of Crete.
has its own attraction. The route which goes around Boats taking route M53B, from WP M531, outside
the it6rth coast of Crete (M53A) will appeal to those La Valletta, should set an initial course for WP
who prefer to make some stops en route. From WP M534, south of Gavdhos Island. From that point the
M531, outside Valletta harbour, a direct course can route continues due east, parallel to the south coast
be set for WP M532, in the Antikithera Channel, of Crete, to WP M535. At that point, the course
between the island of that name and the NW coast turns NE and makes for WP M536, off the SE
of Crete. From that point the route cuts across the extremity of Rhodes, before a final course alteration
Southern Aegean all the way to WP M533, NW of is made for WP M537, in the eastern approaches to
Mandraki harbour, on the NW coast of Rhodes. The the port of Mandraki. The port is reached by round-
route passes a number of dangers north of Crete, ing the northern tip of Rhodes. Mandraki (Limin
all of which are marked by lights. Rhodou) is always crowded and visiting boats may
Those who wish to reach Rhodes by an offshore find it difficult to secure a free berth. Additional
route, which stays south of Crete (M53B), may find docking space was planned for 1994.
better conditions on this slightly longer route. Such

M54 Malta to Cyprus

469
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

The route to Cyprus passes immediately to the NW comer of Akrotiri Bay. Yachts E!tther anchor in
south of Crete and in strong northerly winds it is the commercial harbour or in the fishing harbour
possible to close with the Cretan coast to benefit nearby. Limassol Marina is a further six miles to the
from the lee provided by the high island. However, NE (34 '42.S'N, 33 "09.S'E). The marina uses the call-
when sailing close to the coast, attention must be sign Shera ton Harbour and monitors VHF channels
paid to the strong gusts which occasionally blow 9 and 16.
with great force down the steep mountain slopes Boats bound for Lamaca should continue across
towards the sea. Akrotiri Bay to WP M546, off Cape Kiti. A course
Because of the declaration of independence by alteration will be needed for WP M547, off Cape
the Turkish side of Cyprus and the still unresolved Dades, south of the port of Lamaca. Larnaca
dispute over partition, the authorities in the Marina monitors VHF channel 16. Occasionally
Greek side do not welcome boats that have called yachts are asked to anchor in the outer harbour
first in Northern Cyprus and then visit the south. while a berth is found for them.
For this reason, those intending to call in Northern Boats sailing route M54B to Northern Cyprus
Cyprus should perhaps do so after having visited should follow the same route as far as WP M542,
Southern Cyprus. Northern Cyprus, and especially SW of Crete. The route then passes close to
the attractive port of Kyrenia, is a good starting Gaidhouronisi, another small island off the Cretan
point for visits to the southern coast of neigh- coast and continues to WP M548, off Cape
bouring Turkey. Kormakiti, at the NW extremity of Cyprus. The
Boats bound for Southern Cyprus (route M54A), course is altered there for WP M549, off Snake
should set an initial course from WP M541, outside Island, west of Kyrenia (Girne). The capital of
Valletta harbour, for WP M542, south of Gavdhos Northern Cyprus has a small harbour and yacht-
Island, a·small island off the SW point of Crete. The ing faci,lities are much below those available in the
route then continues parallel to Crete and crosses south. Yachts usually go into.Kyrenia's inner har-
over to WP M543, SW of Cape Zevgari, on the bour, which is very attractive but also very small.
south coast of Cyprus. The course continues to WP As the approaches to this older harbour are not lit,
M544, off Cape Gata, from where boats bound for night arrivals should be avoided. The new com-
Limassol should alter course for WP M545, in the mercial port is located NE of the town.

M55 Malta to Port Said

·i
470
II
 M60 ROUTES FROM GREEC E

Favourable northerly winds prevail along this route es to Port Said. At that point the course should be
during summer. If the passage is made in winter or altered for WP M553, north of Port Said and the
in strong northerly winds it may be advisable to entrance into the shipping channel leading to the
pass closer to Crete, as there are several harbours Suez Canal. Because of the low, featureless coast
along its south coast where shelter can be found in and the shallow depths which extend several miles
bad weather. However, when sailing close to offshore, the position of Port Said is very difficult
Crete, attention must be Eaid to the strong gusts to ascertain if landfall has been made either too far
which occasionally blow~ith great force down the east or west. The situation is further complicated
steep mountain slopes towards the sea. by the occasionally strong currents in the area,
Boats undertaking this passage are usually which are also influenced by the state of the Nile
bound for the Red Sea and are only calling in Egypt waters. The cluster of ships at anchor is usually the
because of the Suez Canal. Those who wish to stop first indication of the approaches to Port Said. The
in an Egyptian port before Port Said can do so at approach channel to Port Said extends far offshore
Alexandria. However, yachting facilities for visi- and is well marked by buoys. It should be entered
tors are limited in that port and the only ones avail- at its northern extremity and no shortcuts taken
able belong to the Alexandria Yacht Club, which is because of a number of wrecks lying outside this
one of the most unwelcoming c.lubs in the world. channel. Small vessels are allowed to proceed into
Those who wish to visit the interior of Egypt would the harbour without a pilot and all formalities can
do better to do it from either Port Said or Suez, be completed after the vessel has berthed at Fouad
whose yacht clubs are much more helpful. Yac.h t Club. This is situated on the eastern side of
A direct course can be sailed all the way 1from the harbour. See page 491 for details on transiting
Malta and WP M551 to WP M552, north of the the Suez Canal.
Damietta mouth of the Nile river, in the approach-

M60 ROUTES FROM GREECE

M61 Greece to Malta 472
M62 Greece to Messina Strait 473
M63 Rhodes to Cyprus 474
M64 Rhodes to Port Said 475
M65 Rhodes to Malta 475
The Greek islands continue to be one of the most August and they must be taken into account when
popular cruising grounds in the world and very drawing up any cruising plans which include that
few long distance cruising boats pass through the part of the world. The best' strategy is to try to
Mediterranean without visiting them. The main arrive in the Northern Aegean by the end of May
feature of the Aegean, from where all of the above and then sail slowly south with the help· of the
routes originate, are the strong northerly winds of meltemi. By the end of summer one is then ready
summer. These winds prevail from June until to embark on one of the following routes.

471
R OUT ES IN T H E M EDIT ERRANE AN S ~A

M61 Greece to Malta

Wher~as boats on the opposite· route have to con- much easier. To leave the Aegean one can use any ~
of the channels between the Peloponnese and .i
tend with the strong northerly winds of summer
and therefore have a choice of route to reach the Crete, although the closest channel to Crete,
Aegean, the same winds make the passage to Malta which goes SE of Antikithera, is probably the sim-
.·
472
 M60 ROUTES FROM GREECE

plest. Boats which have included Crete on their itin- off Cape Malea. The route passes through an inter-
erary can join the offshore route at the same point mediate waypoint before a direct course for Malta
(route M61A). A route which passes close to Cape can be ·set from WP M615, north of Kithera
Malea (M61B) benefits from the shelter provided Island. On route M61C, a suggested point of depar-
by the P.eloponnese by staying longer in the lee of ture is WP M616 north of Zante Island, from where
the land before reaching the open sea. Finally, boats a direct course can be set for WP M612, in the
which have used the Corinth Canal, or are leaving approaches to the Maltese capital.
from one of the Ionian islands, will join route On arrival in Malta, boats should contact
M61C. Valletta Port Control on VHF channels 12 or 16
From WP M611, in Antikithera Channel, a before proceeding to one of the reception docks at
direct course can be set by boats on route M6IA for Msida Marina or Lazaretto Creek. The Yachting
WP M612, off Valletta harbour. Boats leaving the Centre can be contacted on VHF channel 9 to
Aegean closer to the Peloponnese and joining route request docking information.
M61B should take their departure from WP M613,

M62 Greece to Messina Strait

ii

There are two main routes reaching the Messina next cape to WP M623 to approach the Messina
Strait from Greece. Boats leaving from the Central Strait from the south.
Aegean may prefer to use the Corinth Canal and Boats taking the more southern route should
pass north of the Peloponnese (route M62A), start off from WP M625, off Cape Malea. The three
whereas boats which are in the Southern Aegean fingers of the Peloponnese are followed around to
should join route M62B. WP M628, off Sapientza Island, from where a direct
Route M62A takes its departure from Greece at course can be set for WP M623 off Capo dell' Armi,
WP M621, in the channel between the islands of in the southern approaches to Messina Strait.
Cephalonia and Zante. The route goes right across The narrow strait separating mainland Italy
the Ionian Sea to WP M622, off Cape Spartivento from Sicily has its own weather peculiarities. Usually
at the toe of Italy. The coast is followed around the the wind tends to blow either in a northerly or

473
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

southerly direction along the axis of the strait. with strong tidal currents and a number of small
Sometimes the wind will be NE on the eastern side, whirlpools and eddies remind one of why this is
NW on the western side, and very light in the mid- the presumed location of the Scylla and Charybdis
dle. Alternatively it can be S to SE in the southern of the Odyssey. A line of bores called tagli can occur
approaches, changing abruptly to NW in the north- at the change of tide. It is therefore essential to time
ern approaches, which creates a heavy sea. Violent one's transit of the strait with a favourable tide.
gusts come off the high ground, which together

M63 Rhodes to Cyprus .."

The most direct route from Rhodes (M63A) leads extremity of the island, should be approached with
to Paphos, a small port on the SW coast of Cyprus, caution .
from where it is easy to reach the two major ports Boats bound for Southern Cyprus (route M63A)
in Southern Cyprus, Limassol and Larnaca. and intending to stop first at Paphos, which is an
Because of the unresolved dispute between the two official port of entry, can set a direct course from
sides of the island, caused by the declaration of WP M630, off Mandraki harbour, for WP M631,
independence by the Turkish side, the alternative west of Cape Paphos. The small harbour is
route (M63C) should only be used if the intention reached by passing south of this cape.
is to visit Nor thern Cyprus. The authorities in Boats bound for Lirnassol or Larnaca (route
Greek Cyprus do not approve of boats stopping in M63B) should set a course from WP M630 for
Northern Cyprus first, so for the time being it is bet- WP632, SW of Cyprus. From there the course is
ter to visit the south before the north. An easterly altered for WP M633, SW of Cape Zevgari, on the
current sets along the coast of Cyprus, and south coast of Cyprus. The course continues to WP
because of this current Cape Andreas, at the NE M634, off Cape Gata, from where boats bound for

474
 M60 ROUTES FROM GREECE

Limassol should alter course for WP M635, in the berthing instructions. Occasionally yachts are
NW corner of Akrotiri Bay. Yachts either anchor in asked to anchor in the outer harbour while a vacant
the commercial harbour off the town of Limassol berth is found for them.
or in the fishing harbour nearby. Limassol Marina Boats sailing route M63C to Northern Cyprus
is a further six miles to the NE (34 "42.S' N, wiJl pass close to the south coast of Turkey. From
33'09.S'E). The marina uses the callsign Sheraton WP M630, off the NE tip of Rhodes, an initial course
Harbour and monitors VHF channels 9 and 16. should be set for WP M638, off Strongili Island.
Boats bound for Larnaca should continue across From there the course can be altered to make land-
Akrotiri Bay to WP M636, off Cape Kiti. A course fall at WP M639, off Cape Kormakiti, at the NW
alteration will be needed for WP M637, off Cape extremity of Cyprus. The course is altered there for
Dades, south of the port of Larnaca. Larnaca WP M6310, off Snake Island, west of Kyrenia, the
Marina monitors VHF channel 16 and will give capital of Northern Cyprus.

M64 Rhodes to Port Said

Favourable winds can be expected along this route A direct course can be set from WP M641, off the
for most of the year. Because the current normal- NE point of Rhodes, for WP M642, off the
ly sets eastward along the Egyptian coast, and the Damietta mouth of the ile. From there the
current is augmented by the waters of the Nile, course is altered for WP M643, in the northern
especially when the latter is in flood, landfall approaches to Port Said and the Suez Canal. Boats
should be made to the west of Port Said. As the are n·o rmally met by a pilot launch and directed to
water is shallow throughout the area, the coast the Fouad Yacht Club on the eastern side of the har-
should not be approached beyond the 20 fathom bour. See page 491 for details on transiting the Suez
line, which can be followed as far as Damietta. Canal.
M65 Rhodes to Malta

475
 ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

There are two routes that can be sailed to Malta, one well marked by lights. From WP M652 a direct
passing north of Crete, the other passing south. The course can be sailed to WP M653, east of Valletta.
northern route should appeal to those who intend Boats sailing the southern route (M65B) should
to stop on the way as there are several convenient take their departure from WP M654, NE of
ports on the north coast of Crete. Both routes can Rhodes, from where an initial course can be set to
be sailed nonstop and the waypoints listed above WP M655, off the east coast of the island. From that
are for direct passages. The northern route, point the course can be altered for WP M656, off
although slightly shorter, has the disadvantage of Koufonisi Island, SE of Crete. The route then runs
stronger winds and relatively high swell during the parallel to the south coast of Crete to WP M657,
months when the meltemi is in force in the Aegean. south of Gavdhos Island. From there a direct route
At such times the southern route, although longer, leads to WP M653, off the Maltese capital. Arriving
may be preferable. boats should contact Valletta Port Control on VHF
Boats sailing the northern route (M65A), should channels 12 or 16 before proceeding to one of the
take their departure from WP M651, west of reception docks at Msida Marina or Lazaretto
Mandraki, from where a direct course can be sailed Creek. The Yachting Centre, which manages all
all the way to WP M652, in the Antikithera marinas in the Maltese capital, can be contacted on
Channel, NW of Crete. This route passes a number VHF channel 9 to request docking information.
of dangers, such as the Sofrana Rocks, which are

M70 ROUTES FROM PORT SAID

M71 Port Said to Malta 477
M72 Port Said to Messina Strait 478
M73 Port Said to Crete 478
M74 Port Said to Rhodes 479
M75 Port Said to Cyprus 479
M76 Port Said to Israel 480
Having transited the Suez Canal and arrived in Port routes heading in a NW direction, as contrary winds
Said, suddenly the entire Mediterranean lies before are likely to be encountered, particularly in summer.
one. Routes from Port Said fan out in all directions This is a good reason for timing an arrival in Port
and, because of its convenient location, most des- Said for late spring if one is headed in that direction.
tinations are within easy reach. The exception is for

!. 476
ii
 M70 ROUTES FROM PORT SAID

M71 Port Said to Malta

On leavmg Port Said, an initial course can be set for W or NW winds. If shelter is sought in the lee of
WP M712, north of the Damietta mouth of the Nile, Crete, or if passing close to the island, attention
in order to reach deeper water. From that point a must be paid to the strong gusts blowing down the
direct course can be set for WP M713, just outside steep mountains.
the Maltese capital. Contrary winds are predomi- On arrival in Malta, boats should contact
nant on this route and every shift of wind should Valletta Port Control on VHF channels 12 or 16
therefore be used to advantage. A good supply of before proceeding to one of the reception docks at
fuel should also be loaded in Port Said to be able Msida Marina or Lazaretto Creek. The Yachting
to motor if necessary in calms or light winds. Centre can be contacted on VHF channel 9 to
Preferably the route should pass close to the south request docking information.
coast of Crete, where shelter can be sought in strong

477
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

M72 Port Said to Messina Strait

The recommended route to the Messina Strait pass- western side, and very light in the middle.
es close to Crete, where a waypoint (M723) has Alternatively it can be S to SE in the southern
been set SW of the island of Gavdhos. If necessary, approaches, changing abruptly to NW in the north-
the route can be altered earlier, so as to pass ern approaches, which creates a heavy sea. Violent
between Gavdhos and Crete. From WP M723 a gusts come off the high ground, which together
direct course can be set to . WP M724 off Capo with strong tidal currents and a number of sinall
dell' Anni, in the southern approaches to Messina whirlpools and eddies make it easier to see why the
Strait. Scylla and Charybdis of the Odyssey are reputed to
The narrow strait separating mainland Italy from have been located in this strait. A line of bores
Sicily has its own weather peculiarities. Usually the called tagli can occur at the change of tide. It is
wind tends to blow either in a northerly or souther- therefore essential to time one's transit of the strait
ly direction along the axis of the strait. Sometimes with a favourable tide.
the wind will be NE on the eastern side, NW on the

M73 Port Said to Crete

478
 M70 ROUTES FROM POR'I' SAID

Strong northerly winds make this a difficult pas- Cape Sidheros, the NE point of Crete. There are sev-
sage in summer, but better conditions are normally eral attractive ports on the north cgast of Crete and
experienced in either spring or autumn, when most these can be reached by rounding Cape Sidheros
boats sail this route. Boats bound for islands in the and closing with the coast. Boats bound for
Aegean will fare better by taking route M74 and Iraklion should alter course for WP M734. From
enter the Aegean from the SE. Sailing north from there the route runs parallel to the north coast of
Crete is difficult throughout the summer, so a stop Crete to WP M735, NE of Iraklion. Boats should
there is better left for the end rather than the start proceed into the old Venetian harbour, where there
of an Aegean cruise. are a number of pontoons for yachts. If there is no
From WP M732, north of the Damietta mouth of free space cruising boats may use the quay imme-
the Nile, a course can be set for WP M733, east.of diately east of the small boat harbour.

M74 Port Said to Rhodes

Having left Port Said and its busy approaches, from the summer. Additional docking space was
WP M742, north of the Damietta mouth in the Nile planned for 1994.
delta, a direct course can b!'! set for the NE point of Because of the preponderence of contrary winds
Rhodes and WP M743. The port of Mandraki is along this route, it may be necessary to motor in
reached by rounding the NE extremity of the calm or light winds. If strong NW winds persist
island. Mandraki (Limin Rhodou), the main port of while in Port Said, it is better to make a detour via
Rhodes, is always crowded and cruising boats may Cyprus and follow directions as for route M83
find it difficult to secure a free berth, especially in (page 483).

M75 Port Said to Cyprus

' )

L
I

479
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERR.ANEAN SEA

Cyprus is a popular destination for boats that have long distance voyagers. To reach it an initial course
transited the Suez Canal as it provides a convenient should be set for WP M754, off Cape Kiti, from
springboard for subsequent visits to neighbouring where the route turns north into Larnaca Bay.
Middle Eastern countries. Unfortunately the con- Boats bound for Northern Cyprus (route M75B)
tinuing disagreement between the two parts of will find it much more convenient to round
Cyprus make it difficult to cruise between North Cyprus from the west as a strong east-setting cur-
and South Cyprus. As the authorities in Northern rent makes it more difficult to go around Cape
Cyprus do not seem to mind boats having called Andreas, the NE extremity of the island. If sailing
first in the South, that part of Cyprus should be vis- this route, which leaves Cyprus to starboard, a first
ited first. The small port of Paphos, on the SW coast recommended waypoint (M756) is off Paphos.
of Cyprus, is a convenient point of departure for From there a small detour can be made into this
boats bound for either Rhodes or Southern Turkey official port of entry into Cyprus, or one can con-
and can also be used for shelter should the weath- tinue to WP M757, off Cape Arnauti, at the NW
er deteriorate suddenly. extremity of Cyprus. From there the course can be
A direct route for any port on the south coast of altered for WP M758, off Cape Kormakiti and final-
Cyprus can be set as soon as .the long entrance ly landfall can be made at WP M759, near Snake
channel of Port Said has been left behind. Boats Island, in the approaches to Kyrenia (Girne), the
bound for Limassol should set a course for WP capital of Northern Cyprus. Cruising boats usual-
M752, off Cape Gata from where the course can be ly go into the inner harbour, which is very small.
altered for WP M753, in the NW corner of Akrotiri As the approaches to this older harbour are not lit
Bay. The marina at Larnaca, in Larnaca Bay, is a night arrivals should be avoided. A new commer-
favourite refitting and wintering spot among cial port is located NE of the town.

M76 Port Said to Israel

This is a route taken by those who wish to start direct course for WPM762, off Tel Aviv Marina. A
their cruising in the very east of the Mediterranean. big swell makes itself felt in the Eastern
From Port Said boats bound for Tel Aviv can set a Mediterranean throughout the year and the seas

480
 M80 ROUTE S FROM CYPRUS

breaking in the shallo~ waters off the Israel coast should be avoided. A guide boat is occasionally
occasionally make it difficult to enter some ports. sent out by the marina to assist those not familiar
Boats approaching the Israeli coast are supposed with the entrance. There is a smaller marina at Jaffa,
to contact the authorities when 40 miles off to give two miles south of Tel Aviv. Jaffa Marina (32°03.3'N,
details of vessel and ETA On approaching the coast 34 "43'E) also monitors VHF channel 16 and will
yachts are met and occasionally boarded by a patrol send out a boat to guide in those unfamiliar with
boat, which then accompanies the vessel to the port the entrance, which can be particularly difficult in
of entry. Tel Aviv Marina monitors VHF channel 16, onshore winds.
but because of the difficult entrance night arrivals

M80 ROUTES FROM CYPRUS

M81 Cyprus to Israel 482
M82 Cyprus to Port Said 483
M83 Cyprus to Rhodes 483
M84 Cyprus to Crete 484
M85 Cyprus to Malta 485
M86 Cyprus to Southern Turkey 486
The strategic position of Cyprus in the Eastern yachts which had stopped in Northern Cyprus first
Mediterranean makes it an excellent starting have not been permitted to call at a port in Southern
point for voyages in any direction. The one major Cyprus. The authorities in Northern Cyprus do not
problem is the continuing dispute between the seem so particular about boats that have called in
authorities of the divided island, those in Southern the south first. If this situation persists, these facts
Cyprus not welcoming yachts that have called first should be taken into account when drawing up
in Turkish speaking Northern Cyprus. Occasionally cruising plans for that part of the world.

M80 Routes from Cyprus

481
RO UTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

The weather is generally pleasant with norther- weather picture. An easterly current sets along the
ly winds prevailing in summer, especially along the northern coast, which is particularly noticeable in
north coast. Variable winds are more common the vicinity of Cape Andreas, the NE extremity of
along the south coast, where day breezes are also the island.
a phenomenon that contributes to a complicated

M81 Cyprus to Israel

~

The best point of departure for the short passage M813, NW of Cape Carmel, in the approaches to
to Israel is Larnaca, wh ere up to date information Haifa, before the course can be altered for the port
should be obtained from the port authorities con- of Haifa. Spartan Reef, in the l\TW part of the Bay
cerning sensitive areas to be avoided. There is a of Akko (Acre) should be avoided as the swell nor-
choice of destinations on the Israeli coast, with mally breaks over it. There is a small marina at
most boats making either for Haifa or for Tel Aviv. Akko, north of Haifa, and there are plans to
The former is a busy commercial port with little increase its capacity. In Haifa itself, the Carmel
attraction for cruising boats. Tel Aviv has a good Yacht Club occasionally has room for visitors at
marina and is also a better place for visits into the their facility at the mouth of Kishon River.
interior, such as Jerusalem. Boats approaching the Boats sailing to Tei Aviv (route M81 B) should use
Israeli coast are supposed to contact the authorities the same departure points and set a course for WP
when 40 miles off to give details of vessel and ETA. M814, NW of Tel Aviv. Tel Aviv Marina monitors
Tel Aviv Marina monitors VHF channel 16. On VHF channel 16, but because of the difficult
approaching the coast yachts are met and occa- entrance night arrivals should be avoided. A guide
sionally boarded by a patrol boat, which then boat is occasionally sent out by the marina to assist
accompanies the vessel to the port of entry. those not familiar witl1 the entrance. There is also
Whether leaving from Larnaca and WP M811, in a small marina at Jaffa (32 "03.3' N, 34 "43'E), about
Larnaca Bay, or from Limassol and WP M812, in two miles south of Tel Aviv. Entering the marina
Akrotiri Bay, a direct course can be sailed to WP can be very difficult in strong W winds.

482
 M80 ROUTES FROM CYPRUS I
M82 Cyprus to Port Said

This route benefits from favourable winds for most Cape Kiti. From WP M822 a direct course can be set
of the summer. From most ports on the south coast for WP M825, at the northern entrance into the
of Cyprus there is a clear run to a point 10 miles shipping channel leading into Port Said. Boats leav-
north of the entrance into Port Said, which is the ing from Limassol, in the NW part of Akrotiri Bay,
recommended anchorage for commercial shipping should set an initial course from WP M823 for WP
waiting to transit the Suez Canal. Because of the M824, off Cape Gata. From that point, a direct
low, featureless coast and the shallow depths which course can be sailed to WP M825, off Port Said.
extend several miles offshore, the position of Port The approach channel to Port Said extends far
Said is very difficult to ascertain if landfall is made offshore and is well marked by buoys. It should be
either too far east or west. The situation is further entered at its northern extremity and no shortcuts
complicated by the unpredictability of the currents taken because of a number of wrecks lying outside
in the area, which are also influenced by the state this channel. Small vessels are allowed to proceed
of the Nile waters. The cluster of ships at anchor into the harbour without a pilot and all formalities
is usually the first indication of the approaches to can be completed after the vessel has berthed at the
Port Said. Fouad Yacht Club. This is situated on the eastern
Boats leaving from Larnaca and WP M821 side of the harbour.
should set an initial course to WP M822, to clear

M83 Cyprus to Rhodes

483
ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

It is generally recommended to wait for a spell of M835, off the NE tip of Rhodes.
E or SE winds before making this passage, which Boats leaving from Kyrenia, in Northern Cyprus
can be hampered by strong northerly winds in (route M83B), should set an initial course from WP
summer. If persistently strong W or NW winds M832 for WP M833, off Cape Kormakiti. The sub-
occur after the start of this passage, it is preferable sequent offshore route passes close to a group of
to go on the port tack and head for the Turkish coast islands off the south coast of Turkey. Those who
where either a change in the weather can be await- wish, may clear into Greece at Kastellorizon.
ed or shorter tacks taken along the coast. Otherwise, from WP M834, off the small island of
A convenient port to wait for favourable condi- Strongili, the course is altered for WP M835, in the
tions for boats sailing route M83A is Paphos, on the approaches to Mandraki, the main port on the
SW coast of Cyprus. Boats coming from ports on island of Rhodes. Mandraki (Limin Rhodou) is
the south coast of the island can join the offshore always crowded and cruising boats may find it dif-
route close to that point. From WP M831, outside ficult to secure a free berth. Additional docking
Paphos harbour, a direct course can be set for WP space was planned for 1994.

M84 Cyprus to Crete

l
f.
Directions are similar to those for route M83, with better to sail to Rhodes, as described in route M83,
the advantage that the prevailing northerly winds and enter the Aegean from the SE. Because of the ·;
of summer will be met at a better angle. However, strong meltemi, sailing north from Crete is difficult
boats bound for islands in the Aegean would do throughout the summer, so when making plans for
'
1' ·
I

484
 M80 ROUTES FROM CYPRUS

an Aegean cruise it is better to visit the islands to M84B, will sail a coursl! to pass clear of Cape
the north of Crete first and leave Crete for later. Kormakiti, the NW extremity of Cyprus, before
Whether leaving from the south or north of being able to set a course for WP M847, south of
Cyprus, the routes to the north coast of Crete con- Kasos Island. At that point the course can be altered
verge in Dhiavlos Kasou, the channel separating for WP M843, NE of Crete, and joins the route from
Crete from the island of Kasos. Boats leaving from Southern Cyprus. The route for Iraklion runs par-
Southern Cyprus (route M84A) will find it conve- allel to the north coast of Crete to WP M844, NE of
nient to take their departure from Cyprus at the Cretan capital. Boats should proceed into the
Paphos, on the SW coast of the island. From WP old Venetian harbour, in the SW comer of the large
. M841 a direct course can be set for WP M842, east commercial harbour. If there is no free space at one
of Cape Sidheros, at the NE extremity of Crete. of the pontoons, cruising boats may use the quay
Boats leaving from Northern Cyprus on route immediately east of the small boat harbour.

M85 Cyprus to Malta

Reasonable conditions can be expected on this Marsamxett Harbour.

route throughout the summer, with best chances of Boats sailing route M85B from Kyrenia, in
favourable winds between the middle of June and Northern Cyprus, should take their leave from the
the middle of August. Calms become more fre- island at WP M855, off Cape Korrnakiti, from where
quent with the approach of autumn. a course can be set to pass south of Crete through
Boats leaving from one of the ports in Southern WP M852 and on to WP M853, in the approaches
Cyprus, such as Larnaca or Limassol, should take to the Maltese capital. On arrival in Malta boats
their departure from Cyprus at WP M851 , SW of should contact Valletta Port Control on VHF chan-
Cape Zevgari (route M85A). From this point the nels 12 or 16 before proceeding to one of the recep-
route passes south of Crete through WP M852, tion docks at Msida Marina or Lazaretto Creek. The
south of Gavdhos Island. From there a direct course Yachting Centre can be contacted on VHF channel
can be set for WP M853, at the entrance into 9 to request docking information.

485
RO UTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

M86 Cyprus to Southern Turkey

Northern Cyprus, and especially the port of entry coming from this direction, and complete
Kyrenia, is a perfect departure point for the south entry formalities there. From WP M861, north of
coast of Turkey. Boats coming from Southern Kyrenia, a course is set for WP M862. From there
Cyprus (route M86B) will fare better by starting the course can be altered for WP M863, south of
from a western port, such as Paphos. Rounding Alanya. Because the small port is always crowded
Cyprus from the east is not recommended because with local boats, visiting yachts normally anchor
of the east-setting current along the north coast and north of the pier, where protection from the pre·
in the vicinity of Cape Andreas. vailing wind is good.
U leaving from Kyrenia, boats sailing route M86A Boats leaving from one of the ports in Southern
have a choice of destinations, from Anamur on the Cyprus (route M86B), such as Paphos, should set
east side of the Gulf of Antalya, to Antalya itself,. an initial course for WP M865. From that point, the
or Finike, further west. If the intention is to cruise course can be altered for WP M863, south of the
the Turkish coast from east to west, it is advisable port of Alanya.
to sail first to Alanya, which is the nearest port of

M90 ROUTES FROM ISRAEL

M91 Israel to Cyprus 487
M92 Israel to Port Said 488
M93 Israel to Malta 488
Only a few routes set out from the easternmost Jack natural harbours, boat movement is confined
country in the Mediterranean and most boats that to a few ports. Amongst them the busiest is Tel Aviv
sail them usually make a first stop in Cyprus. As marina, used both by visiting and local sailors.
most of the eastern shores of the Mediterranean
 M90 ROUTES FROM ISRAEL

M90 Routes from Israel

1\191 IsraeltoCyprus

Contrary winds are common on this route and outer harbour while a berth is found for them.
therefore a more northerly starting port, such as Boats leaving from Haifa should make their way
Haifa, is recommended. Most boats sailing this past Spartan Reef, north of Cape Carmel, to WP
route usually head for Larnaca before continuing M911, from where a direct route leads to WP M913,
around the south or north of Cyprus. Larnaca in the Bay of Larnaca. Boats leaving from Tel Aviv
Marina (34 '55'N, 33 "38.5'E) monitors VHF channel and WP M912 can set a course for the same WP
16. Occasionally yachts are asked to anchor in the M913.

487
 ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

1· M92 I~rael to Port Said

A contrary current usually makes itself felt along approaches to Port Said. The approach channel into
this route and it is therefore preferable not to fol- Port Said is taken from this point. The channel
low the coast too closely, where the current is should be entered at its northern extremity and no
strongest. If landfall is made too far east of Port shortcuts taken because of a number of wrecks
Said, it is often difficult to identify any coastal fea- lying outside this channel. Small vessels are
tures and the approaches to Port Said will only be allowed to proceed into the harbour without a pilot
indicated by the large number of ships lying at and all formalities can be completed after the ves-
anchor in the recommended waiting area. sel has berthed at the Fouad Yacht Club. This is sit-
From WP M921, outside Tel Aviv marina, a direct uated on the eastern side of the harbour.
course can be set for WP M922, in the northern

M93 Israel to Malta

This passage can be undertaken at any time dur- entrance into Marsamxett harbour. On arrival in
ing summer when mostly northerly winds can be Malta boats should contact Valletta Port Control on
expected. From WP M931, outside Tel Aviv mari- VHF channels 12or16 before proceeding to one of
. na, a direct course can be set for WP M932 to pass the reception docks at Msida Marina or Lazaretto
south of Crete and Gavdhos Island. From there a Creek. The Yachting Centre can be contacted on
new course can be set for WP M933, east of the VHF channel 9 ·to request docking information.

488
 23
PANAMA AND
SUEZ CANALS
P ANAMA C ANAL Pacific side
Yachts arriving at the Pacific side of the Canal
The gradual handing over of the Panama Canal to should contact Flamenco Signal Station on VHF
the Panamanian authorities by the United States channel 12 and will be directed to either anchor off
does not appear to have affected the actual oper- the Balboa Yacht Club or pick up one of its moor-
ation of the Canal, and transiting procedures are ings. The club office is open all day on weekdays
just as straightforward and easy to accomplish as and until noon on Saturday and monitors VHF
before. By the year 2000 the Canal will be operat- channel 63. Clearance formalities and the transit-
ed entirely by Panama. ing of the Canal can be arranged at the club.
When clearance formalities are completed on
Atlantic side arrival, the Port Authority will issue a cruising per-
Cristobal Signal Station should be contacted on mit, which is needed whether transiting the Canal
VHF channel 12 when 3 miles from the harbour or not. This also applies to those wishing to visit
entrance and again when passing between the the San Blas Islands on the Atlantic side for which
breakwaters. Traffic lights control the movement an additional permit has to be obtained at Porvenir,
of vessels between the breakwaters, but small where all boats are required to stop and check in
yachts may enter at any time provided they do so before proceeding to the islands.
close to the sides. Having entered the large harbour, Those wishing to transit the Canal must follow
yachts should proceed in a southerly direction to the following steps once clearance formalities have
the recommended anchorage, which is located to been completed:
the east of Channel buoy no. 4 and to the south of
Cristobal Mole. The yacht anchorage, called the 1 The skipper must call the Admeasurer's office
Flats, is marked by red and amber buoys. (tel. 46 7293 on the Atlantic side, 52 4570 on the
Alternatively, one may ask permission to proceed Pacific side) to make arrangements for 11 Panama
directly to the Panama Canal Yacht Club, which can Canal Tonnage Certificate to be issued. In
be contacted on VHF channel 64. Clearance Cristobal, the Admeasurer' s office is on the first
instructions can be requested on VHF channel 16. floor of the Administration Building no.1105. In
Both at Cristobal and Balboa, on the Pacific side, Balboa, the office is on the first floor of Building
yachts are boarded by a Panamanian boarding offi- 729, Marine Bureau Building. The offices are
cer, who has many functions and will perform cus- open 0700-1600 Monday to Saturday. Payment
toms, quarantine, and immigration duties. Those must be made in cash in US dollars. Neither trav-
who prefer to remain at anchor can come to the club ellers cheques nor any other currency than dol-
lars are accepted. ·
by dinghy and use its facilities, provided permis-
sion has been obtained beforehand. The use of out- 2 After admeasurement, the captain has to report
board engines is no longer prohibited between the to the Marine Traffic Control Office (Building
anchorage and shore facilities. 1105, second floor, Cristobal or Building 910, La
Bola, on the Pacific side). An officer will explain
~ P>NAMA AND Sm CANA«

1
A

'' OKFIG
B ' . . ,g
-- -,
'-

Yacht anchorage
iI area 'F' Is marked
by amber and
red buoys Canal

11
Panamn Canal -Atlantic Ocean entrance

the requirements needed for the transit, such as days, spending the night anchored off Gamboa.
four mooring lines not less than 100 ft long and The pilot arrives early in the morning and leaves
not less than 22 mm (7 /8 inch) in diameter, four for the night, returning the following morning to
linehandlers in addition to the helmsman and complete the transit. Yachts must maintain
adequate fenders. The ve$sel is required to be their schedule regardless of weather conditions.
able to maintain a speed of 5 knots under her Yachts that cannot maintain a speed of 5 knots
own power. All lines and cleats should be will need a change of pilot at Gamboa, halfway
inspected to ensure that they are in good order through the Canal. However, if one has indicat-
as they will be put under heavy strain during the ed that a speed of 5 knots could be maintained
transit. Those in need of additional linehandlers and this was not achieved, the yacht will be
should contact Panama Transit Services on tel. 28 delayed at Gamboa until a second pilo.t becomes
8056. available the following, day. All additiona.l
expenses for this wm be paid by the owner.
3 The captain is then given a provisional pilot time
Yachts that cannot maintain more than 4 knots
for his scheduled transit, prior to which he will
· have to be towed through the Canal by a
be required to call Marine Traffic Control (tel. 52
Com.m ission launch, for which a fee is charged.
4202 or VHF channel 12) to confirm the time.
Yacht transits take place every ·day of the week There are three types of lockage for yachts under
and depend on shipping movement, but on aver- 125 ft (38 m) LOA when transiting the Canal: cen-
age yachts have to wait three days before tran-
siting. Yachts normally make the transit in two
tre chamber, sidewall, or alongside a tug. Traffic
Control decides on the type of lockage for each
.I
490
 PANAMA AND S UEZ CANA LS

-
Pacific Ocean

'1::1 Changame Island ·

Panama Canal - Pacific Ocean entrance

yacht. Because of the roughness of the walls and the SUEZ C ANAL
turbulence created during the filling of the cham-
bers, yachts usually transit centre chamber or The 87.5 mile long Suez Canal links the
alongside a Commission tug, but each yacht must Mediterranean aI)d the Red Sea by way of several
be capable of centre lockage. lakes and without any locks. Its opening in 1869
Centre chamber locknge: The vessel is held in the cen- had a tremendous impact on international shipping
tre of the chamber by two bow and two stem lines. as it halved the distance between Europe and the
Yachts are sometimes rafted together in which case Far East. In its long history, the Canal has been
only those on the outside will handle two mooring closed twice as a result of war, in 1956 for a year
lines each. and in 1967 for seven years. It is now used regularly
Sidewall lockage: Only two 100 ft Jines are required by about 100 ships per day and its recent upgrad-
~ut plenty of fenders as the walls are rough con- ing has made it possible for the Canal to be tran-
crete. Care should be taken of the rigging and sited by vessels of up to 200 000 tons.
spreaders which may hit the walls as the water is Vessels under 300 tons are allowed to use the
lowered in the chamber. This type of lockage is not canal free of charge, although there are some addi-
recommended for yachts of less than 70 ft LOA. tional fees that have to be paid by all users, includ-
Alongside a tug: Two 50 ft lines are required and also ing the smallest yacht. The captains of small vessels
two springs, as well as adequate fenders. This is the intending to transit the canal are allowed by the
best type of lockage for small yachts and, it is the Suez Canal Authority to complete the necessary
preferred lockage used by the Canal pilots. formalities on their own, but as they are very com

491
PANAMA AND SUEZ CANALS

Suez Canal

plicated, the use of a shipping agent is strongly rec- paid in US dollars, therefore it is advisable to carry
ommended. Both in Port Said and Suez there are some funds in notes, including smaller denomi-
several firms which specialise in handling small nations.
boats and their representatives are usually on sta- Those who do not wish to be delayed after the
tion in the approaches to the Canal offering their transit of the Canal is completed, can request out-
services, sometimes rather forcefully. If the services ward clearance from either Port Said or Suez while
of a local agent are employed, all additional costs completing formalities for their transit. They can
must be specified by the agent and fees agreed in proceed on their way as soon as they have
advance. Agent fees and transit costs all have to be dropped the pilot at the end of the Canal. Those

492
 PANAMA AND SUEZ CANALS

Suez Canal - the approaches to Suez

wishing to visit inland areas of Egypt either before required to anchor for the night in a place where
or after passing through the Canal need a tourist the yacht does not impede the passage of larger
visa, which can be obtained on arrival. During a vessels. The transit procedure is as follows:
trip inland, the boat can be left in the care of either
yacht club. Southbound
Because of the length of the Canal, very few Small ve·s sels arnvmg at the Mediterranean
yachts are able to transit the Canal in one day. Small · entrance to the Canal in Port Said must berth at the
vessels are not permitted to use the Canal at night Fouad Yacht Club, wpjch is situated on the east side
and for this reason it is necessary to anchor of the harbour. Because of the high density of traf-
overnight at Ismailia, in the NW corner of Lake fic and intricate approaches, Port Said harbour
Timsah. The crew are normally allowed to use the should not be entered at night. On the morning of
local yacht club but must not leave the premises. the transit, a pilot will board the vessel at a place
Usually the same pilot will rejoin the yacht at dawn agreed wjth the agent. The pilot will take the ves-
to complete the transit. sel as far as Ismailia, where t he night will be.spent
Yachts must be capable of maintaining a speed at anchor in Lake Timsah. The pilot will be collected
of 5 knots under power. The speed limit in the by launch and either the same pilot or a replace-
Canal is 9 knots. The use of sails is not permitted ment will join the yacht the following morning to
in the Canal, although with the pilot's permission complete the transit. On arrival in Suez, yachts usu-
the mainsail may be run up while crossing the ally moor at the Suez Yacht Club, situated in a creek
Bitter Lakes if the weather warrants this. If the ves- on the west bank, very close to the southern end of
sel is delayed for any reason and Ismailia cannot the capal. The pilot will give instructions how to
be reached before nightfall, the captain may be reach the club and he can be dropped there.
PANAMA AND SUEZ CANALS

Northbound day of the transit yachts only manage to go as far

Vessels approaching the Canal from the Red Sea as Ismailia, where the ni_ght is spent at anchor in
must anchor in Port Ibrahim, in the NE corner of Lake Timsah. The pilot will be collected by a launch
Suez Bay, close to the north of the Canal entrance. and either the same pilot or a replacement pilot will
After formalities have been completed, the boat can join the yacht the following morning to complete
move to the Suez Yacht Club, or remain at anchor. the transit. Occasionally, if the morning convoy is
Whether completing formalities alone or with the late leaving Port Said, the yacht is del~-yed leaving
help of an agent, a pilot appointed by the Canal Ismailia and may have to spend a second night in
Authority will join the yacht on the morning of the the Canal. On arrival in Port Said, the pilot will be
agreed day, either at the yacht club or more likely picked up by a launch and the yacht is free to pro-
at the customs wharf close to the entrance to the _c eed on her way. Those who have obtained
Canal, on the west side of the harbour. Yachts nor- onward clearance can put to sea immediately.
mally transit just after the morning convoy has left Those who wish to stay should proceed to the
Suez, between 0900 and 1100. Usually on the first Fouad Yacht Club, on the east side of the harbour.

Waiting area
Ships at anchor

Numerous
wrecks

Suez Canal - approaches to Port Said

494
 BIBLIOGRAPHY

Asia and Pacific Review 1985, World of Information, Saffron Waldron (1985).
BASS George F, ed, A History of Seafaring, Book Club Associates, London (1974).
· BROWN Alexander Crosby, Horizon's Rim, Arrowsmith, London (1935).
CHICHESTER Francis, Gipsy Moth Circles the World, Pan Books, London (1969).
CORNELL Jimmy, Modern Ocean Cruising, Adlard Coles, London (1983).
CORNELL Jimmy, Ocean Cruising Survey, Adlard Coles, London (1985).
CORNELL Jimmy, World Cruising Survey, Adlard Coles Nautical, London (1989) and International
Marine.
CORNELL Jimmy, World Cruising Handbook, Adlard Coles Nautical, London (1991) and International
Marine Publishing, Camden, Maine (1991).
CORNELL Jimmy, Around the World Rally, Adlard Coles Nautical, London (1993) and Sheridan House
Inc, New York (1993).
DEBENHAM Frank, Discovery and Exploration, Paul Hamlyn, London (1968).
DENHAM HM, The Ion ian Islands to Rhodes, John Murr.a y, London (1969).
DENHAM HM, The Aegean, John Murray, London (1970).
DENHAM HM, Southern Turkey, t/ie Levant and Cyprus, John Murray, London (1973).
DENHAM, HM, The Tyrrhenian Sea, John Murray, London (1972).
FAGAN Brian M, California Coastal Passages, Capra Press and Chartguide Ltd (1981).
FINDLAY Alexander George, Memoir of the North~rn Atlantic Ocean, 13th edn (1873).
FITZROY Rear Admiral, The Weather Book: A Manual of Practical Meteorology, Longman Green, London
(1863).
GIESEKING Ilsemarie, Zwischen Brilckendeck und Kochtopf, Gieseking, Elmshorn (1982).
GRENFELL PRICE A, ed, The Explorations of Captain James Cook in the Pacific, Dover Publications, New
York (1971).
Guide Afriq11e 1984-85, UTA French Airlines (1984).
HART Jerrems C and STONE William T, A Cruising Giiide to the Caribbean and the Bahamas, Dodd, Mead
& Co, New York (1982).
HENDERSON Richard, Sea Sense, Adlard Coles, London (1975).
HEYERDAHL Thor, Sea Routes to Polynesia, Futura, London (1974).
HISCOCK Eric, Cruising Under Sail, 3rd edn, Adlard Coles Nautical, London (1985) and International
Marine Publishing, Camden, Maine (1985).
HORSBURGH James, Directions for Sailing to and from the East Indies, Africa and South America Vol. T,
57th edn, London (1841).
KLINE Harry, ed, Cruising Guide to the Bahamas, Tropic Isle Publishers, Miami (1982).
LUCAS Alan, Cruising the Coral Coast, Horwitz, Sydney (1980).
LUCAS Alan, Red Sea and Indian Ocean Cruising Guide, Imray Laurie Norie and Wilson, Huntingdon
(1985).
MAURY M F, Sailing Directions Vol I, William Harris, New York (1858).
MAURY MF, Sailing Directions Vol TI, Cornelius Wendel, New York (1859).
MOITESSIER Bernard, Cape Horn: The Logical Route, Grafton Books, London, (1973).
NEALE Tom, An Island to Oneself, Collins, London (1966).
NORWOOD Richard, The Seaman's Practice, London (1637).
Ocean Passages of the World, Hydrographer of the Navy (1895), 1923 edn and 1973 edn.

495
BIBLIOGRAPHY

Pacific Business Guide 1986, World of Information, Saffron Waldron (1986).

Pacific Islands Yearbook, Pacific Publications, Sydney (1985).
RANTZEN M J, Little Ship Navigation, Herbert Jenkins, London (1969).
Reed's Ocean Navigator, 3rd edn, Thomas Reed Publications, London (1977).
Reed's Nautical Almanac & Coastal Pilot East Coast, Gulf Coast and Islands (USA), Thomas Reed
Publications, London (1982).
Reed's Nautical Almanac & Coastal Pilot West Coast, Canada, Mexico, Hawaiian Islands, Thomas Reed
Publications, London (1985). .r
RIDGELL Reilly, Pacific Nations and Territories, Guam Community College (1982).
ROBB Frank, Handling Small Boats i11 Heavy Weather, Adlard Coles, London (1972).
ROSSER W H, Navigation of the Atlantic, India and Pacific Oceans, 3rd edn (1868).
ROSSER W Hand IMRAY J F, Sailing Directions for the Indian Ocean (1866).
RCCPF and HAMMICK Anne, ed. Atlantic Crossing Guide, 2nd edn, Adlard Coles autical, London
(1992) and International Marine Publishing, Camden, Maine (1992).
Royal Cruising Club Bulletins.
Sailing Directions Vols 1, la, 24, 34, 38, 44, 45, 46, 48, 60, 64, 6"7, 70, 71, Hydrographic Department.
Seven Seas Cruising Association Commodores' Bulletins 1976-86.
South Seas Guide 1985-86, UTA French Airlines (1985).
SOUTHBY-TAILYOUR Ewen, Falkland Island Shores, Nautical Publishing, London (1985).
STREET Donald M Jr, Street's Cruising Guide to the Eastern Caribbean, WW Norton & Co, New York
(1981).
TATE Michael, Blue Water Cruising, Temple Press, London (1964).
TAVERNIER Bruno, Great Maritime Routes, MacDonald, London (1970).
WALTER Richard, Anson's Voyage Around the World, Penguin Books, London (19;i7).
WILENSKY Julius M, Yachtma11's Guide to the Windward Islands, CSY Inc (1973).

496
CRUISING GUIDES

Adriatic Pilot; Trevor & Dinah Thompson, Irnray, Great Britain

Alaska's Southeast; Sarah Eppenbach
Atlantic Crossing Guide; RCC Pilotage Foundation, Adlard Coles Nautical, Great Britain and International
Marine, USA
Atlantic Islands; RCC Pilotage Foundation, Irnray, Great Britain
Atlantic Spain and Portugal; RCC Pilotage Foundation, Imray, Great Britain
Azores Cruising Guide; ed Gwenda Cornell, World Cruising Publications, Great Britain
Baltic Sea Pilot; RCC Pilotage Foundation, Imray, Great Britain
Baltic Southwest Pilot; Mark Brackenbury, Adlard Coles Nautical, Great Britain
Black Sea Cruising Guide; Rick & Sheila Nelson
Canary Islands Cruising Guide; ed Doina Cornell, World Cruising Publications, Great Britain
Channel Islands Pilot; Malcolm Robson, Adlard Coles Nautical, Great Britain
Charlie's Charts of Costa Rica; Margo Wood, Charlie's Charts, Canada
Charlie's Charts of Polynesia (The South Pacific east of 165°W Longitude); Charles Wood, Charlie's Charts,
Canada
Charlie's Charts of the Hawaiian Islands; Charles Wood, Charlie's Charts, Canada
Charlie's Charts of the US Pacific Coast; Charles & Margo Wood, Charlie's Charts, Canada
Charlie's Charts of the Western Coast of Mexico; Charles Wood & Janet Steele, Charlie' s Charts, Canada
Charlie's Charts, North to Alaska; Charles Wood, Charlie' s Charts, Canada
Circumnavigating Australia's Coastline; Jeff Toghill
Circumnavigators Guide; ed. Gwenda Cornell, World Cruising Publications, Great Britain
Coastal Cruising Guide to the Atlantic Coast; Embassy Marine, USA
Coastal Cruising Handbook of the Royal Akarana Yacht Club; Mary Hamilton & D'arcy Whiting, New Zealand
Complete Boating Guide to Florida's East Coast; Embassy Marine, USA
Cruising Association Handbook, Yachting Guide for Southwest Baltic to Gibraltar; Cruising Association, Great
Britain
Cruising Beyond Desolation Sound; John Chappell
Cruising Guide Acapulco to the Panama Canal; Charles & Nancy Goodman
Cruising Guide to Abaco; Steve Dodge
Cruising Guide to Belize and Mexico's Caribbean Coast; Freya Rauscher
Cruising Guide to British Columbia; Bill Wolferstan, Whitecap Books, Canada
Cruising Guide to California's Offshore Islands; Brian Fagan
Cruising Guide to Cuba; Simon Charles
Cruising Guide to Eastern Florida; Claiborne Young
Cruising Guide to Newfoundland; ed. Sandy Weld
Cruising Guide to the Abacos and Northern Bahamas; Darrell Wyatt, Westcott Cove Publishing, USA
Cruising Guide to the Caribbean; Williii.m Stone & Ann Hays
Cruising Guide to the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park; Stephen Pavlidis
Cruising Guide to the Kingdom of Tonga in the Vava' u Group; The Moorings, Cruising Guide Publications,
USA
Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands; Chris Doyle, Cruising Guide Publications, USA
Cruising Guide to the New England Coast; Roger Duncan
Cruising Guide to the Northwest Caribbean; Nigel Calder, International Marine, USA
Cruising Guide to the Nova Scotia Coast; ed. John McKelvy Jr.
Cruising G11ide to Trinidad & Tobago, Venezuela & Bonaire; Chris Doyle
Cruising Guide to the Turquoise Coasts of Turkey; Marcia Davock
Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands; Nancy & Simon Scott
·Cruising in New Caledonia; Joel Mark, Marc Rambeau and Ross Blackman

497
 CRUISING GUIDES

Cruising Ports: Florida to California; John Rains

Cruising the Chesapeake; William Shellenberger
Cruising the Coral Coast; Alan Lucas, Horwitz Grahame, Australia
East Spain Pilot; Robin Brandon, Imray, Great Britain
Falkland Island Shores; Ewen Southby-Tailyour, Adlard Coles Nautical, Great Britain
Gentleman's Guide to Passages South; Bruce van Sant, Cruising Guide Publications, USA
Greek Waters Pilot; Rod Heikell, Imray, Great Britain
Guide to Cruising the Chesapeake Bay; Chesapeake Bay Communications, USA /
Guide to French Mediterranean Ports, including Corsica; Derek Bowskill, Adlard Coles Nautical, Great Britain
Ionian; Rod Heikell, Imray, Great Britain
Ireland Sailing Directions; Irish Cruising Club
Island Expedition: the Turks & Caicos; ed. Dragan & Nicholas Popov
Italian Waters Pilot: Rod Heike!, Irnray, Great Britain
Landfalls of Paradise, Cruising Guide to the Pacific Islands; Earl Hinz, Western Marine Enterprise, USA
Madeira Cruising Guide; World Cruising Publications, Great Britain
Mediterranean Cntising Handbook; Rod Heike!, Imray, Great Britain
Mediterranean France & Corsica, a Sea Guide; Rod Heike!
North Africa, Gibraltar to Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia & Malta; RCC Pilotage Foundation, Imray, Great Britain
North Biscay Pilot; ed. Nicholas Heath, Irnray, Laurie, Norrie & Wilson, Great Britain
North Brittany and Channel Islands Cruising; Peter Cumberlidge
Northern Territory Coast; John Knight, Australia
Panama Canal Pilot's Handbook; The Panama Canal Commission
Phuket & Malacca Straits Cruising Guide; John Batt, Quantum Marine, Thailand
Piclcmere Atlas of Northland's East Coast, New Zealand; AH Pickmere & Janet Watk\ns, Transpacific Marine,
New Zealand
Red Sea Pilot; E Morgan and S Davies
Reed's Nautical Almanac, North American East Coast; ed. John & L~slie Kettlewell
Reed's Nautical Alamanac, Caribbean; ed. John & Leslie Kettlewell
Sail Thailand; John Everingham
Sailor's Guide to the Windward Islands; Chris Doyle, Cruising Guide Publications, USA'
Snronic, the Snronic and Argolic Gulfs including the Peloponnese; Rod Heike!
Shell Pilot to the English Channel, Vol. 1, Shell Pilot to the English Channel, Vol. 2, Harbours in Northern France
and the Channel Islands, Dunkerque to Brest; John Coote, Faber & Faber, Great Britain
South France Pilot; Robin Brandon, Imray, Great Britain
Spanish Mediterranean Yachtsman's Directory; ed. Cindy Cody, Mallorca, Spain
Street's Cruising Guide to the Eastern Caribbean; Donald Street, Norton, USA
Texas & Louisiana Cruising Guide; ed. Bob Heller
I I Turkish Waters & Cyprus Pilot; Rod Heikell, Imray, Great Britain
I The Lesser Anti//es; ed. Oz Robinson, Imray, Great Britain
I ' Turks & Caicos Chart; Bob Gascoine
Virgin Islands Cruise Guide; Better Boating Association, USA
Yachting Guide to Bennuda; ed. Edward Harris

l.
11 Yachting Guide lo the South Shore of Nova Scotia; Arthur Dechman
Yachtsman's Fiji; Michael Calder
;I Yachtsman's Guide to the Virgin Islands; ed. Meredith Fields, Tropic Isle Publishers, USA
Yachtsman's Guide to the Windward Islands; Julius Wilensky
Yachtsman's Handbook and Cruising Guide to Malta; CAS Services, Malta
I

!
' I
498
 INDEX OF ROUTES (inalphabeticalorder)

AN105 ABC Islands and Islands 141 IS37 Chagos to Madagascar

Venezuela to Colombia 121-122 AT22 Brazil to Europe 173-174 412-413
AN101 ABC Islands and AT21 Brazil to Lesser Antilles !TIS Chagos to Maldives 387
Venezuela to Lesser Antilles 172-173 IS36 Chagos to Mauritius 412
118 AS22 Brazil to Tristan da Cunha IS35 Chagos to Seychelles
AN104 ABC Islands and 190 411-412
Venezuela to Panama 120-121 PN16 British Columbia to IT14 Chagos to Sri Lanka 386
AN102 ABC Islands and California 206 IS34 Christmas Island to Chagos
Venezuela to Virgin Islands PN14 California to British 411
118-119 Columbia 204-205 IS31 Christmas Island to Cocos
PN15 Alaska to British Columbia PTl 4 California to Galapagos Keeling 409
205-206 260-261 S33 Cocos Keeling to Chagos
AN137 Azores to Bermuda 148 PNll California to Hawaii 410-411
AN139 Azores to Canada 202-203 IS32 Cocos Keeling to Mauritius ·
149-150 PTlS California to Marquesas 409-410
AN136 Azores to Canary Islands 261-162 IT13 Cocos Keeling to Sri Lanka
147-148 PT! 6 California to Tahiti 262-263 385- 386
AN132 Azores to English AN56 Canary Islands to Azores AN106 Colombia to Panama 122
Channel 143-144 78 IS44 Comoros to East Africa
AN134 Azores to Gibraltar 146 AN54 Canary Islands to 416-417
AN131 Azores to Ireland 143 Bahamas 76-77 IS45 Comoros to Seychelles
AN135 Azores to Madeira 147 ANSS Canary Islands to 417-418
AN133 Azores to Portugal 145 Bermuda 77 IS46 Comoros to South Africa
AN138 Azores to USA 149 AT14 Canary Islands to Brazil 418
RN3 Bab el Mandeb to Hodaida 168 PT24 Cook Islands to Hawaii
435-436 AN52 Canary Islands to Cape 268-269
RN2 Bab el Mandeb to Massawa Verde Islands 74-75 PS37 Cook Islands to New
435 AN58 Canary Islands to Zealand 307
RNl Bab el Mandeb to Port Gibraltar 79 PS35 Cook Islands to Samoa 305
Sudan 433-434 AN51 Canary Islands to Lesser PS36 Cook Islands to Tonga
ANll 2 Bahamas to Bermuda 127 Antilles 72-74 305-307
AN114 Bahamas to Panama and AN57 Canary Islands to Madeira M84 Cyprus to Crete 484-485
Central America 129 78-79 M81 Cyprus to Israel 482
· AN113 Bahamas to the Eastern ATl2 Canary Islands to South M85 Cyprus to Malta 485
Caribbean 128 Africa 166 M82 Cyprus to Port Said 482-483
M21 Balearics to French Riviera AN53 Canary Islands to West M83 Cyprus to Rhodes 483-484
453-454 Africa 75-76 M86 Cyprus to Southern Turkey
M24 Balearics to Gibraltar AT26 Cape Horn to Europe 486
455-456 177- 178 IS13 Darwin to Ambon 402
M23 Balearics to Malta 455 AT27 Cape Horn to North !Sl 4 Darwin to Bali 402-403
M22 Balearics to Messina Strait America 178-179 IS15 Darwin to Christmas Island
454-455 AS14 Cape Town to Brazil 186 403-404
1S22 Bali to Chagos 407 AS11 Cape Town to St Helena I563 Durban to Cape Town·427
IS21 Bali' to Christmas Island 183-184 I562 Durban to Mauritius 426
406-407 IS64 Cape Town to Western IS61 East Africa to Seychelles 425
!Tll Bali to Singapore 382-384 Australia 428 PSl 7 Easter Island to Magellan
1TI2 Bali to Sri Lanka 384-385 AN61 Cape Verde Islands to Strait or Cape Hom 291-292
.AN125 Bermuda to Azores Azores81 PS15 Easter Island to Pitcairn
138-139 ATIS i;::ape Verde Islands to 289-290
AN122 Bermuda to Canada 136 Brazil 169 ANll Europe to North America
AN124 Bermuda to Gibraltar AN62 Cape Verde Islands to (northern routes) 39-40
137-138 Lesser Antilles 82 AN12 Europe to North America
AN126 Bermuda to Lesser PN22 Central America and (southern routes) 40-41
Antilles 140 Mexico to California 210-212 ATll Europe to South Africa
AN123 Bermuda to Northern PN26 Central America and 165-166
Europe 137 Mexico to Hawaii 215 AS27 Falkland Islands to South
AN121 Bermuda to USA 135-136 PTl 9 Central America to Easter America 193-194
AN127 Bermuda to Virgin Island 265 PS54 Fiji to New Caledonia 321

499
INDEX OF ROUTES (in alphabetical order) .

PS53 Fiji to New Zealand Northwest 219-220 M52 Malta to Greece 467
320-321 PN64 Hong Kong to Guam 241 M55 Malta to Port Said 470-471
P551 Fiji to Samoa 318 PN63 Hong Kong to Japan M53 Malta to Rhodes 468-489
P552 Fiji to Tonga 319-320 239-240 PT21 Marquesas to Hawaii
PS55 Fiji to Vanuatu 321 PN62 Hong Kong to Philippines 266-267
AN115 Florida to Bermuda 130 239 PS24 Marquesas to Nor thern
AN116 Florida to the Eastern PN61 Hong Kong to Singapore Cooks296
Caribbean 130-131 237-239 P523 Marquesas to Tahiti 295
M31 French Riviera to Balearics TN31 India to Red Sea 378 PS22 Marquesas t9 Tuamotus
457 M91 Israel to Cyprus 487 294-295
M34 French Riviera to Gibraltar M93 Israel to Malta 488 PN86 Marshall Islands to Hawaii
459-460 M92 Israel to Port Said 488 253-254
M33 French Riviera to Malta AN108 Jamaica to Central IS55 Mauritius to Comoros 423
458-459 America and Mexico 124 IS56 Mauritius to Madagascar
M32 French Riviera to Messina AN107 Jamaica to Panama 123 424
Strait 458 PN71 Japan to Alaska 243 IS51 Mauritius to Re union
P512 Galapagos to Easter Island PN73 Japan to California 245 419-420
287-288 PN76 Japan to Guam 247-248 1554 Mauritius to Seychelles
PS13 Galapagos to Gambier PN74 Japan to Hawaii 245-246 422-423
Islands 288 PN77 Japan to Hong Kong 248 1552 Mauritius to South Africa
PS11 Galapagos to Marquesas PN75 Japan to Marshall Islands 420-421
286-287 246-247 PT18 Mexico and Central
PS21 Gambier to Marquesas PN72 Japan to Pacific Northwest America to Marquesas 264
293-294 244 PN27 Mexico and Central
AN38 Gibraltar to Atlantic !Tl 7 Kenya to Red Sea 389-390 America to Panama 215-216
Morocco 63-64 !Tl 8 Kenya to Sri Lanka 390-391 PT36 Micronesia to Solomon
AN36 Gibraltar to Azores 60-61 PN85 Kiribati to Hawaii 252-253 Islands 277
AN32 Gibraltar to Canary PT32 Kiribati to Tuvalu 273 PS71 New Caledonia to Fiji
Islands 57-58 AN72 Lesser Antilles to ABC 337-338
AN33 Gibraltar to Lesser Antilles Islands 87-88 PS73 New Caledonia to New
58 AN79 Lesser Antilles to Azores South Wales 339
AN31 Gibraltar to Madeira 55-56
M14 Gibraltar to Malta 452
95-96
AN76 Lesser Antilles to Bahamas
PS72 New Caledonia to New
Zealand 338
,I
/ I
M13 Gibraltar to North Africa 91-92 P574 New Caledonia to
450-451 AN78 Lesser Antilles to Queensland 339-340
AN37 Gibraltar to North Bermuda 94-95 PS75 New Caledonia to Torres
America 61-62 ATl 7 Lesser Antilles to Brazil Strait 340
AN34 Gibraltar to Northern 170-171 PT34 New Guinea to Micronesia
Europe59 AN73 Lesser Antilles to 274-275
AN35 Gibraltar to Portugal Colombia 88 PT33 New Guinea to Philippines
59-60 AN75 Lesser Antilles to Grea ter 273-274
M12 Gibraltar to Sicily 450 Antilles 90-91 PS93 New South Wales to Fiji 352
Mll Gibraltar to the Balearics AN77 Lesser Antilles to North PS92 New South Wales to New
449 America 92-94 Caledonia 351
M61 Greece to Malta 472-473 AN74 Lesser Antilles to Panama PS91 New South Wales to New
M62 Greece to Messina Strait 89 Zealand 350-351
473-474 AN71 Lesser Antilles to P594 New South Wales to
PN82 Guam to Carolines 250-251 Venezuela 87 Vanuatu 353
PN83 Guam to Japan 251-252 PN87 Line Islands to Hawaii 254 PS68 New Zealand to Cape Horn
PN81 Guam to Palau 250 AN43 Madeira to Azores 67-68 335
PN31 Hawaii to Alaska 218-219 AN41 Madeira to Canary Islands PS66 New Zealand to Cook
PN33 Hawaii to California 65-66 Islands 333
220-221 .AN46 Madeira to Gibraltar 69-70 PS64 New Zealand to Fiji 331
PN34 Hawaii to Central America AN42 Madeira to Lesser Antilles PS63 New Zealand to New
and Mexico 221 67 Caledonia 330
PN37 Hawaii to Japan 223-224 AN44 Madeira to Northern PS61 New Zealand to New South
PN35 Hawaii to Line Islands 222 Europe 68 Wales 327- 328
PT26 Hawaii to Marquesas AN45 Madeira to Portugal 68- 69 P562 New Zealand to
270-271 AS26 Magellan Strait to Falkland Queensland 329- 330
PN36 Hawaii to Marshall Islands Islands 193 PS67 New Zealand to Tahiti 334
223 IT21 Maldives to Chagos 392 PS65 New Zealand to Tonga 332
PT25 Hawaii to Tahiti 269-270 M54 Malta to Cyprus 469-470 AN144 North America to Azores
PN32 Hawaii to the Pacific MSl Malta to Gibraltar 466-467 155-157

500
 . INDEX OF ROUTES (in alphabetical order)

AN146 North America to AN95 Panama to Virgin Islands 312

Bahamas 159 114 PS41 Samoa to Tonga 309-310
AN143 North America to PS86 Papua New Guinea to PS43 Samoa to Wallis 311-312
Bermuda 154-155 Indonesia 349 1542 Seychelles to Comoros
AN142 North America to PS84 Papua New Guinea to 415-416
Mediterranean 154 Queensland 347 1543 Seychelles to East Africa 416
AN141 North America to PS85 Papua New Guinea to IS41 Seychelles to Mauritius 414
Northern Europe 152-153 Torres Strait 348 IT16 Seychelles to Red Sea
AN147 North America to PN54 Philippines to Guam 235 388-389
Panama 160--161 PN52 Philippines to Hong Kong M43 Sicily to Balearics 463-464
AT13 North America to South 233 M42 Sicily to French Riviera 463
Africa 167 PN53 Philippines to Japan M44 Sicily to Gibraltar 464-465
AN145 North America to the 233-234 M41 Sicily to Greece 461-462
Eastern Caribbean 157-158 PN55 Philippines to Palau M45 Sicily to Port Said 465
PS107 North Queensland to 235-236 PN43 Singapore to Hong Kong
Darwin 360 PN51 Philippines to Singapore 227-229
PN13 Northbound from 232-233 PN45 Singapore to North Borneo
California 204 PS16 Pitcairn to Gambier Islands 230
ANlll Northbound from the 290 PN44 Singapore to Philippines
Bahamas and Florida 126-127 M73 Port Said to Crete 478-479 229-230
AN103 Northbound from M75 Port Said to Cyprus 479-480 PN41 Singapore to the Gulf of
Venezuela and the ABC Islands M76 Port Said to Israel 480-481 Siam 226-227
119-120 M71 Port Sa.id to Malta 477 PN42 Singapore to Vietnam 227
AN19 Northern Europe to M72 Port Sa.id to Messina Strait IN11 Singapore to Western
Azores 47-48 478 Malaysia 366-367
AN18 Northern Europe to M74 Port Said to Rhodes 479 PS31 Society Islands to Cook
Canary Islands 46-47 RS2 Port Sudan to Gulf of Aden Islands 300-301
AN17 Northern Europe to 440-441 PS34 Society Islands to New
Madeira 45-46 RN4 Port Sudan to Suez 436-437 Zealand 304
AN16 Northern Europe to AN24 Portugal to Azores 52-53 PS33 Society Islands to Samoa
Mediterranean 44 AN22 Portugal to Canary Islands 303
AN15 Northern Europe to 50-51 PS32 Society Islands to Tonga
Portugal 43-44 AN21 Portugal to Gibraltar 49-50 302- 303
IN32 Oman to Red Sea 379 AN23 Portugal to Madeira 51 PS81 Solomon Islands to Papua
PN17 Pacific Northwest to AN25 Portugal to Northern New Guinea 345
Hawaii 207 Europe53 PS83 Solomon Islands to
PT! 7 Pacific Northwest to PS104 Queensland to Fiji 357-358 Queensland 346
Marquesas 263 PS102 Queensland to New PS82 Solomon Islands to Torres
PN84 ealau to Guam 252 Caledonia 355-356 Strait 345-346
PT35 Palau to New Guinea 276 PS!Ol Queensland to New AT23 South Africa to Azores
PN24 Panama to Alaska 213-214 Zealand 355 17~175
PN23 Panama to British PS106 Queensland to Papua New AT24 South Africa to Lesser
Columbia 212-213 Guinea 359 Antilles 175-176
AN91 Panama to Central PS105 Queensland to Solomon AT25 South Africa to North
America 108-109 Islands 358 America 176-177
PN21 Panama to Central PS103 Queensland to Vanuatu PS14 South America to Easter
America and Mexico 209-210 356- 357 Island 289
AN97 Panama to Colombia IT22 Red Sea to East Africa AS24 South America to Falkland
115-116 392-393 Islands 191 ·
PTl2 Panama to Galapagos IN34 Red Sea to Maldives 380 AS25 South America to Magellan
-258-259 1T23 Red Sea to South Indian Strait 192-193
PN25 Panama to Hawaii 214-215 Ocean 393-394 AS21 South America to South
AN94 Panama to Hispaniola 113 IN33 Red Sea to Sri Lanka Africa 188-189
AN93 Panama to Jamaica, 379-380 PN12 Southbound from
Bahamas and USA 111- 113 IS53 Reunion to South Africa California 203-204
AN96 Panama to Lesser Antilles 421-422 AN117 Southbound from Florida
115 M63 Rhodes to Cyprus 474-475 131-133
PT13 Panama to Marquesas M65 Rhodes to Malta 475-476 AN13 Southbound from
259-260 M64 Rhodes to Port Said 475 Northern Europe 42
AN92 Panama to the Gulf of AN14 Routes across the Bay of PTll Southbound from Panama
Mexico and Florida 109-111 Biscay 42-43 256-258 '
AN98 Panama to Venezuela and PS42 Samoa to Fiji 310-311 IN23 Sri Lanka to India 374- 375
the ABC Islands 116 PS44 Samoa to Society Islands IN24 Sri Lanka to Maldives 375

501
INDEX OF R OUTES (in alphabetical order)

IN22 Sri Lanka to Oman 373-374 IS12 Torres Strait to Bali 4()()-402 America 103-104
IN21 Sri Lanka to Red Sea ISll Torres Strait to Darwin 400 AN81 Virgin Islands to Panama
372-373 AS23 Tristan da Cunha to Cape 97-98
IN25 Sri Lanka to Singapore Town 190 AN83 Virgin Islands to the Gulf
375--376 PS57 Tuvalu to Fiji 323-324 of Mexico 99-100
AS12 St Helena to Ascension PT31 Tuvalu to Kiribati 272 AN84 Virgin Islands to Turks &
184-185 PS58 Tuvalu to Wallis 324 Caicos 101
AS13 St Helena to Brazil 185 PS76 Vanuatu to New Caledonia PS56 Wallis to Fiji 322-323
RSl Suez to Port Sudan 438-439 341 · PS59 W;illis to Tuvalu 325
PS25 Tahiti to Austral Islands PS77 Vanuatu to North AN63 West Africa to Azores
296-297 Q~eensland 341-342 82-83
PS26 Tahiti to Cape Horn or PS79 Vanuatu to Solomon · AT16 West Africa to Brazil
Magellan Strait 297-298 Islands 343-344 169-170
PT22 Tahiti to Hawaii 267-268 PS78 Vanuatu to Torres Strait 343 AN64 West Africa to Lesser
PT23 Tahiti to Panama 268 AN89 Virgin Islands to Azores Antilles 83-84
PN65 Taiwan to Guam 241-242 106 AN65 West Africa to Northern
IN15 Thailand to Singapore AN85 Virgin Islands to Bahamas Brazil and Guyanas 84-85
370- 371 101-102 ISl 7 Western Australia to Bass
1N14 Thailand to Sri Lanka AN88 Virgin Islands to Bermuda Strait 405
369-370 105 IS16 Western Australia to Cocos
PS47 Tonga to Fiji 314-315 AN86 Virgin Islands to Florida Keeling 404-405
PS48 Tonga to New Zealand 103 IN13 Western Malaysia to Sri
315-316 AN82 Virgin Islands to Jamaica Lanka 368-369
PS46 Tonga to Samoa 313-314 98-99 IN12 Western Malaysia to
PS45 Tonga to Society Islands 313 AN87 . Virgin Islands to North Thailand 368