3rd Gen Versys 650, Valve Adjustment Procedure (SM page 2-25)

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INDEX
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Steps Page #

Middle Fairing Removal.................................................................... 2

Side Cover Removal......................................................................... 4

Fuel Tank Removal........................................................................... 5

Air Box Removal................................................................................ 8

Throttle Body Removal...................................................................... 9

Cylinder Head Cover Removal.......................................................... 14

Valve Clearance Inspection (initial)................................................... 16

Valve Adjustment............................................................................... 18

Begin Reassembly............................................................................. 26

Reinspect Valve Clearance................................................................ 30

Reinstall Cylinder Head Cover........................................................... 31

Reinstall Spark Plugs & Coil Sticks.................................................... 32

Reinstall Throttle Body........................................................................ 33

Reinstall Air Box.................................................................................. 34

Reinstall Fuel Tank.............................................................................. 36

Miscellaneous Info............................................................................... 38

1
 ************************************************************************
REMOVE MIDDLE FAIRING (SM pg 15-10)
(NOTE: SM = Service Manual)
************************************************************************
1. Middle Fairing Elements
Tab [A]
Hook [B]
Slots [C]
Projections [D]
Grommets [E]

2. Remove:
Quick Rivet [A]
M5 Bolts [B] and Washers
M6 Bolt [C] and Collar

2
3. Pull the rear part of middle fairing [A] outward to clear the
projections [B].
NOTE: To protect the hook and tab, hold the middle part of middle fairing.

4. Clear the hook [A] and tab [B] of the middle fairing from
the inner cover [C].

5. Pull the front part of middle fairing [A] outward to clear the
projections [B].

3
6. Disconnect the turn signal light lead connector [A]'

NOTE: To get turn signal connector off, insert small flat blade screw driver in
back side & lightly lift locking tab.

************************************************************************
REMOVE SIDE COVER (SM pg 15-20)
************************************************************************
1. Side Cover Elements
Projections [A]
Hook Fasteners [B]
Tab [C]
Grommets [D]

4
2. Remove:
Seat (see Seat Removal)
Bolt [A] and Washer
Pull the side cover [B] outward to clear the projections [C].
Clear the tab [D] of the side cover from the fuel tank.

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REMOVE FUEL TANK (SM 3-118)
************************************************************************
1. Disconnect neg. battery terminal
2. Slide back clamps [A] and disconnect hoses B.

3. Disconnect fuel pump lead connector by pushing tab down w/ FB screwdriver.

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4. Remove bolts (B) & bracket (C).

4. Open fuel tank cap to lower pressure.

NOTE: During tank removal, keep the tank cap open to release pressure in
the tank.

5. Drain tank. In this case, I siphoned the fuel out.

6. Clear inner covers A from fuel tank.

7. Pull up rear of fuel tank. I supported rear of tank w/ small piece of wood. Be sure to
place a piece of cloth around the fuel hose joint to catch any leaking gasoline. Wipe off
dirt on the surface around the connection.

6
8. Insert flat tip screwdrive (A) into <red> slit on fuel hose joint lock (B). Turn driver to
disconnect joint lock..... OR with fingers, open & push up (C) the joint lock with your
fingers..

Red Joint Lock:

9. Pull the joint (B) out of the outlet pipe.

7
Close-up of fuel connector after tank removal:

*****************************************************************
REMOVE AIR BOX (SM page 3-116)
*****************************************************************

1. Disconnect the intake air intake temperature sensor connector (A).

2. Disconnect the breather hose (A).

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3. Loosen the air cleaner housing clamp (A). On the left side of the bike.
NOTE: There is only one airbox housing clamp bolt. Difficult to see. Don’t
mistake it for the throttle body clamp bolts.

4. Lift up the air cleaner housing, and disconnect the air switching valve hose (A).

5. Remove the air cleaner housing. Cover throttle body assembly with a clean cloth.

*********************************************************************
<MODIFIED> REMOVE THROTTLE BODY (SM pg 3-112)
*********************************************************************

1. Disconnect Main Throttle Sensor Connector [A]

2. Disconnect Subthrottle Sensor Connector [B]

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3. Open the clamps [A].

4. Disconnect Subthrottle Valve Actuator Connector [B]

5. Disconnect Fuel lnjector Connectors [C]

NOTE: I could not get these off so I left them on and after popping TBs out off
the ports, I just scooted the whole TB back out of the way of the valve cover.

6. Disconnect the vacuum hose [A]' & disconnect the vacuum hoses [B].
NOTE: Green mark on end of hose A & corresponding mark on the TB.

7. Loosen the locknuts [A]' and turn the adjusters [B] to give maximum free play. Do this
at the handlebar throttle as well:

Throttle body end:

10
Handlebar end:

8. Disconnect the throttle cable lower ends [A]'

9. Remove the throttle cables from the throttle cable holder [B].
NOTE 1: Once the cables are at maximum slack and cable tubes are pulled out
from their holders, the ends will come easily out.

NOTE 2: Temporarily zip-tie cables against frame to make it easier to work valve
cover off.

11
10. Loosen the throttle body assy holder clamp bolts [A] (both sides of the bike).

12
11. Remove the throttle body assy from the throttle body assembly holders.
NOTE 1: Even with loosening the throttle body clamps, it would not come off
by lifting straight up. I lifted up on the tab shown below and pulled up and
back to start working it off.

NOTE 2: Because I was unable to remove the fuel injector connectors, I just
left them on and scooted the throttle body back far enough to allow easy valve
cover removal.

12. After removing the throttle body assy, stuff pieces of lint-free, clean cloth into the
throttle body assy holders'***.
*** NOTE 1: I used red shop rags that were supposed to be lint free but after
stuffing them into the fuel intake ports, I noticed that a rag in another
location had shed small pieces of red lint. Recommend next time just
taping the port openings shut like I did with the throttle body top air intake
ports. Note that TB is just scooted back away from valve cover, not
removed.

13
 NOTE 2: If dirt gets into the engine, excessive engine wear and possible
engine damage will occur.

NOTE3: Can now see engine ground wire. Clean and put on dielectric grease
if needed & retighten.

*******************************************************************************************
REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD COVER (SM page 2-25 ref to 5-15)
*******************************************************************************************

1. Remove Air Suction Valve (SM pg 5-12)

a. Remove Air Switching Valve (SM pg 5-13)
(1). Disconnect connector (a).
(2). Disconnect the air switching valve hose (b) from the air suction valve cover.
(3). Remove the air switching valve (c).

b. Remove Air Suction Valve Cover Bolts (A).

NOTE: Probably don’t have to remove ASV cover but I did anyway.
c. Remove Clamp [B]
d. Remove Suction Valve Cover (C).

2. Remove Stick Coils. (SM pg 16-40)

NOTE: Could not lift out. Had to use lip on top to pry up w/ screwdriver.
3. Remove Spark Plugs then stuff rags in holes until ready for V. cover removal.
NOTE: Spark plug wire for cylinder #1 is factory marked. Good idea to further
identify by tape anyway to aid in correct reassembly.

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4. Remove (see picture above):
a. Rubber flap bracket Mounting bolts (C).
b. Clamp Mounting Bolt (D).
c. Clamp (e).
d. Cylinder Head Cover Bolts (F) with washers.

5. Remove the Cylinder Head Cover.

NOTE: I found it helpful to remove this bolt and pull down the rubber sheath so
as to make a bit more room to maneuver the valve cover.

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 *******************************************************************************************
VALVE CLEARANCE INSPECTION, INITIAL (SM pg 2-25)
*******************************************************************************************
Illustration of “clearance” to be measured in shim under bucket system:

1. Remove Timing Inspection viewport Cap (A) & Rotor Bolt Cap (B)

2. Check valve clearances.

a. Put pistons at top dead center (TDC) by turning timing rotor (port B) clockwise until
the proper mark appears in port [A], then measure vavle lash.
MY-NOTE 1: For Cylinder one TDC is at the mark (A) in the view port [B]
above. Cylinder 2 is at the mark in the view port. (SM picture on pg 2-26
showing 1|T and 2|T is incorrect, pg 2-26).

This illustration, pointing to “1|T” (1 bar T) from pg 2-26, is wrong. See note
above.

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MY-NOTE 2: Pistons are numbered beginning with the engine left side while facing
forward on the bike. Cylinder 1 = clutch lever side & Cylinder 2 = throttle side

b. Measure the valve clearances (Pre-cam removal) of the valves that are turned
away from each other (A) & record clearance.

MY NOTE: The main thing is to make sure the lobe on the cam to be measured is
not beginning to press down on the bucket.
Valve Clearance standards (SM pg 2-26):
Exhaust 0.22 to 0.31 mm (0.0087 to 0.0122 inches)
Intake 0.15 to 0.21 mm (0.0059 to 0.0083 inches)

NOTE1: Manual says that thickness gauge is horizontally inserted on the

lifter. I found it difficult to find a good position to accomplish this.

Appropriate (Correct) [A]

Inadequate (Incorrect) [B]
Thickness Gauge [C]
Horizontally lnserts [D]
Cam [E]
Valve Lifter [F]
Hits the Valve Lifter Ahead [G]

Correct Incorrect

NOTE2: Each piston has two intake and two exhaust valves. Measure these two
intake and exhaust valves at the same crankshaft position.

NOTE3:
Check the valve clearance using this method only'
Checking the clearance at any other cam position may
result in improper valve clearance:

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NOTE 4: Valve Clearance Measuring Position:
#1 Piston TDC at End of Compression Stroke:
lntake Valve Clearances of #1 Piston
Exhaust Valve Clearances of #l Piston

#2 Piston TDC at End of Compression Stroke:

lntake Valve Clearances of #2 Piston
Exhaust Valve Clearances of #2 Piston

*********************************************************************************************
VALVE ADJUSTMENT (SM pg 2-27)
**********************************************************************************************
NOTE: ** At this point, pre-adjustment clearances should have all been measured
& results recorded!

1. Align crankshaft. (SM pg 5-19)

Using a wrench on the timing rotor bolt, turn the crankshaft clockwise until the
mark [A] on the timing rotor is aligned with the notch [B] in the edge of the timing
inspection hole [C] in the clutch cover (See note below **).

** NOTE from https://www.kawasakiversys.com/threads/valve-check-adjustment.22058/page-2#post-99749

Things went smoothly until I went to remove the cam caps. They really fought me.
I later figured out that when you position the crank at the "2 over T" mark, as
specified in the manual, that you can do it wrong. When you position the crank at
that mark, check that none of the cam lobes are pressing down on the valves. If
they are, turn the crank 360 degrees, and then the lobes should be clear of the
valves.

2. Remove the cam chain tensioner (SM pg 5-17):

NOTE: Mark the side of the tensioner facing out before removing as it is
possible to install backwards (from above link).

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a. Remove Camshaft chain Tensioner Cap Bolt (A) & washer (B):

NOTE: To turn the cap bolt, I had to use a

12mm “S” shaped, obstruction wrench.

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b. Remove spring (A):

c. Remove Cam chain tensioner mounting bolts (A) then remove body (B):

3. Remove Camshaft cap bolts (1 - 10) gradually and evenly (OR slowly in sequence
and in steps a little at a time as shown in illustration below to reduce chance they will
bind). (SM pg 5-20). Remove & set cam caps aside.

NOTE1: from post #3 @ https://www.kawasakiversys.com/threads/valve-shim-

check-valve-timing-valve-adjustment-lgajohnymac.223795/

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Things went smoothly until I went to remove the cam caps. They really fought me.
I later figured out that when you position the crank at the "2 over T" mark, as
specified in the manual, that you can do it wrong. When you position the crank at
that mark, check that none of the cam lobes are pressing down on the valves. If
they are, turn the crank 360 degrees, and then the lobes should be clear of the
valves.

NOTE 2 @ same link: be careful not to drop the locating dowels (sleeves) that are
under each cap. There are 2 dowels under each cap for a total of 6. When you lift
up the cap, the dowel may stay in the head, or it may stay in the cap, or it may fall
free of both. Dropping a dowel down your cam chain tunnel will ruin your whole
day. So lift the caps slowly, until you know where the dowels are and remove
them to the left side so that you don't pass over the cam chain tunnel.

NOTE 3: Each bolt should go back in same hole so it’s important to keep track of
them. For good measure, I marked bolts with their loosening sequence number as
an additional identifier. Arrows point to front of engine.
Showing bolts numbered with loosening sequence.

I poked holes in a box to store bolts in the order they appear when in the engine.

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NOTE 3: One Youtube video showed the use of rubber mallet to aid in loosening
caps.
NOTE 4: Take note of the cap sleeves.
NOTE 5: Make sure all holes or entryways to engine are blocked with paper
towels.
NOTE 6: From post #9, same loc: In removing shims I did NOT remove my cams -
I merely removed the three cam covers, then gently pulled up the left
side of a cam and used a magnet .
4. Prepare Camshafts for lifting (SM pg 5-19) (note that I am not removing cams)

a. Zip-tie both cams gears to the chain (if not removing cams).
NOTE: This pic shows a Ninja 650r engine’s zip tied cam/gears.
From: http://buckysride.blogspot.com/2012/02/valve-clearance-adjustment-tips.html

b. Mark chain link/sprocket positions w/ black felt tip marker (red in this example).
Note that this is not absolutely necessary since you will be zip-tying the chain &
sprockets. It’s a “just in case” precaution. Picture modified from:
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/threads/valve-clearance-and-valve-timing-markings.219333/#lg=thread-219333&slide=2

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 c. Stuff a clean cloth into the chain tunnel to keep any parts from dropping into the
crankcase. Stuff rags anywhere things could drop into engine such as spark plug
holes.

** NOTE: Crankshaft should be @ proper crank position by this point ( )

5. Measure old shim thickness (be sure and keep straight as to where each came from.
See section (b) below.

a. Lift camshaft aside and remove Valve Bucket & Shims w/ magnet.
Shims are under buckets (shiny cylinders in pic below) and will come out with
bucket held in place by the magnet.

Picture from https://www.kawasakiversys.com/threads/valve-shim-vacuum-sync-2015-650abs-onewizard.133514/#post-1428410

Pic showing magnet being used to remove shim & bucket. From:
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/threads/valve-shim-vacuum-sync-2015-650abs-onewizard.133514/#post-1428410

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Picture showing bucket removed (right) revealing where the shim normally
resides (white arrow),... sitting inside the shim seat.

Picture of shim held in place inside bucket by magnet used to remove it.
Picture from: http://buckysride.blogspot.com/2012/02/valve-clearance-adjustment-tips.html

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 NOTE: Rather than a swiveled magnet, I used a stack of ceramic magnets I
purchased at a hardware store. Worked great.

b. Put buckets & shims in separate marked containers by cylinder, bank, and position:
This is how I kept shims & buckets organized:
RED = exhaust.
BLUE = Intake.
Number = cylinder
o = outboard, i = inboard.

NOTE: For shim replacements, I used Hot Cams rather than Kawasaki dealer.

25
 c. Measure old shim thicknesses with micrometer & record value of each one, being
sure to keep track of what cylinder and position it came from (#1exhaust-inboard,
etc.)

6. Using the pre-adjustment valve clearance measurements & old shim thicknesses,
calculate new shim sizes needed to bring to the proper gap. There are charts on SM 2-
29 & 30 but I chose to use the formula below as I find it easier to use and could
incorporate it into a spreadsheet.
******************************************************
NOTE: Here is the formula for arriving at the new shim thickness needed:
A = (B-C) + D
where: A = new shim thickness needed for desired valve clearance
B = pre-correction recorded valve clearance
C = desired valve clearance
D = old shim thickness

HERE is a link to an online shim thickness calculator**

**NOTE: New shims will be marked with their thickness, however the accuracy of
the stated thickness varies quite a bit. Be sure and measure the new shims first
before using.

********************* BEGIN REASSEMBLY ******************

7. Using assembly grease place shims in proper shim seat, then replace buckets.

8. Reposition cams back into place

26
9. Install the following Parts: Plug Hole Gaskets [A], Dowel Pins [B] (SM pg 5-21)
NOTE: I just reused the existing gaskets and they worked just fine.

10. Put moly/oil mix on bearing surfaces (see below) of both cam shafts.
Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to all cams [A], journals [B] and thrust
blocks [C] with x marks (ie hatchured).

NOTE 1: I used a mixture of Honda Moly 60 paste and motor oil for this task.
Pic of Honda Moly 60 paste:

27
11. MAKE SURE MARKS Still LINE UP marks line up on chain/cam gear and is in
the right position.
NOTE: The timing marks must be aligned with the cylinder head upper
surface [B].

Illustration from SM Pg 5-22:

12. Before installing the cam caps, install the camshaft chain tensioner body (only).
a. Replace the O-ring [a] with a new one.
b. Apply grease to the new O-ring'
c. Release the stopper [B] and push the push rod [C] into the tensioner body [D]

13. lnstall the tensioner body so that the stopper [A] faces upward.

14.Tighten the tensioner mounting bolts (A):

28
SM says: Torque - Camshaft Chain Tensioner Mounting Bolts: 87 in-lbs (9.8 Nm).
NOTE: I Used standard wrench due to lack of room for a torque wrench.

15. Install the camshaft caps & torque as shown (SM pg 5-23)
NOTE: The exhaust cap has a "EX" mark [A] and the intake cap has an “lN”
mark [Bl]

First slightly tighten all camshaft cap bolts evenly <in steps below> to seat the
camshaft in place, then tighten all bolts following the specified tightening sequence
below [1 ~ 12].

Torque - Camshaft Cap Bolts: 12 N'm (1'2 kgf'm, 106 in'lb)

Tightening Sequence:

16. Finish installing the camshaft chain tensioner (SM pg 5-18)

NOTE: several mention trouble getting wrench in position for tensioner center
bolt. One used a sawed off obstruction wrench (12mm). Put torque
wrench in vise to get feel for effort the tightened by hand.

a. lnstall:
Spring [A]
Washer [B]

29
 b. Tighten the tensioner cap bolt [C]. (make sure slack chain is toward tensioner -
see below). See Note 1 below.
Torque - Camshaft Chain Tensioner Cap Bolt 20 Nm (2'0 kgf'm, 15 ft'lb)
NOTE: I did not use a torque wrench for this. No room.

NOTE1: From http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/74-how-to-forum/133514-valve-

shim-vacuum-sync-22015-650abs-onewizard.html#post1428410
Onewizard - says key to easily getting CCT center bolt back in is to turn the
engine about 5 degrees while holding the exhaust cam sprocket. The idea is to
move the slack in the chain towards the intake camshaft & camshaft chain
tensioner. Then insert the reset cam chain tensioner. It shoujld be easily hand
tightened at least 2 turns.

NOTE 2: From Post#9 - https://www.kawasakiversys.com/threads/help-needed-valve-

cover-removal.221021/#post-1624549
Onewizard - Also when putting the cam chain tensioner back in, note my
comment of using the breaker bar to advance the chain clockwise about two
degrees this puts chain slack on the tensioner side, so you can turn the tensioner
in by hand

16. Turn the crankshaft 2 turns clockwise to allow the tensioner to expand and
recheck the camshaft chain timing'

--------------- REINSPECT VALVE CLEARANCE ---------------

17. Re-inspect valve lash & record (rotate the engine several rev’s 1st).

18. Replace: (SM pg 2-25) - NOTE: did not use torque wrench on these.
a. Timing inspection cap (apply grease to o-ring). Torque 35 in-lbs. (Did not torque)

b. Timing Rotor bolt cap. Torque 43 in-lbs. (Did not torque)

30
 *************************************************************************************************
REINSTALL CYLINDER HEAD COVER (SM pg 5-15)
***********************************************************************************************

1. Install cylinder head cover. (SM pg 5-15 & 16)

a. Replace the <spark> plug hole gaskets [A] with new ones.
lnstall:
Dowel Pins [B]
Spark Plug Hole Gaskets NOTE: I just re-used the old gaskets.

2. Replace the head cover gasket with a new one. NOTE: I just re-used the old one.
a. Using a high flash-point solvent, clean off any oil or dirt that may be on the liquid
gasket coating area [A]. Dry them with a clean cloth.
b. Apply liquid gasket [A] to the cylinder head as shown'
Sealant = Liquid Gasket, TB'12168: 92104-1064.

NOTE: I used the following sealant from Permatex for area “A” below:

31
3. lnstall:
a. Head Cover Gasket
b. Cylinder Head Cover
(1). Install washers [A] with metal sides facing upward.
(2). Torque Cylinder Head Cover bolts to 87 in-lbs.

(5). Torque Bracket Mounting Bolts [C] to 61 in-lbs. (Didn’t torque)

(6). Torque Clamp Mounting Bolt [D] to 87 in-lbs. (Didn’t torque)

(7). Clamp [E]

***********************************************************************************************
REINSTALL SPARK PLUGS & COIL STICKS
***********************************************************************************************

1. Spark Plugs (SM pg 2-62) , Torque 15 NM

2. Insert stick coils [A] so that coil head faces the arrow mark [B]

NOTE1: THIS post from Kawasakiversys.com. (I did not do this... )

“FYI I used dielectric grease on the very end of the boot and also the very top of
the rubber seal around the stick coil, FYI the grease at the end is to aid in the boot
completely covering the spark plug and ease of insertion and removal. You do not want
grease anywhere else as high voltage tracking could occur and stick coil failure. The
grease around the upper part is to act as a moisture barrier.”

NOTE2: test that coil sticks are installed securely

NOTE3: On replacing: Insert the stick coils [A] so that the coil heads faces
arrow marks [B] on the cylinder head cover"

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3. Connect hoses.

***********************************************************************************************
REINSTALL THROTTLE BODY (SM pg 3-113)
***********************************************************************************************

1. Install the throttle body assy to the throttle body assy holders.

2. Tighten Throttle Body Assy Holder Clamp Bolts

Torque - Throttle Body Assy Holder Clamp Bolts: 2.0 Nm (18 in-lbs) (Didn’t torque)

3. Apply a thin coat of grease to the throttle cable lower ends.

4. Fit the accelerator cable end [A] and the decelerator cable end [B] into the throttle
Pulley.

5. Install the throttle cables to the throttle cable holder [C].

6. Turn the throttle grip and make sure that the throttle pulley moves smoothly and
return by spring force.

7. Run the leads and hoses correctly (see Cable,Wire'and Hose Routing section in the
Appendix chapter).

8. Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters)

33
9. Adjust:
a. Throttle Grip Free Play (see Throttte Control System lnspection in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter)

b. Idle speed (see ldle Speed Adjustment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
NOTE: Although the SM places this step here, the actual adjustment has to
take place after the bike is reassembled and the motor is running.

***********************************************************************************************
REINSTALL AIR BOX (SM pg 3-117)
***********************************************************************************************

1. Replace Air suction valve (SM pg 5-12)

Air Suction Valve TORQUE for bolts = 9.8 NM / 87 in-lb

34
2. Replace air switching valve. (SM pg 5-13)

3. Connect the air switching valve hose (A).

4. Tighten the air cleaner housing clamp (A). (Don’t mistake for the throttle body
clamp bolts).

5. Connect the breather hose (A).

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5. Connect the intake air intake temperature sensor connector (A).

************************************************************************
REINSTALL FUEL TANK (SM pg 3-121)
************************************************************************

NOTES:

36
1. Check that the dampers [A] and collars [B] are in place on the frame and the fuel
tank. NOTE: lf the dampers are damaged or deteriorated, replace them.

2. Run the hoses correctly (see Cable' Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix
chapter).

3. Check the joint lock for deformation and wear. lf the joint lock is deformed, replace
the fuel hose with a new one.

4. Check that there are no flaws, burrs, and adhesion of foreign materials on the pipe
[A].

6. Apply engine oil to the pipe.

7. lnsert the fuel hose joint [A] straight onto the fuel outlet pipe until the hose joint clicks.

8. Push [B] the <red> joint lock [C] until the hose joint clicks.

37
9. Push and pull [A] the hose joint [B] back and forth more than two times, and make
sure it is locked and does not come off.

10. Connect the fuel pump lead connector and the battery (-) terminal.

11. lnstall the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).

************************************************************************
MISC INFO
************************************************************************
1. Cam shim calculator:
A=(B-C)+D
where:
A = shim thickness needed for the specified clearance
B = recorded valve clearance
C = specified valve clearance
D = old shim thickness

2. How to write fractions in MS Office apps:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QFMguP5zjHQ&feature=emb_logo

Or can just copy & paste this ( ) and enter different values.

3. Link to valve shim calculator

https://www.crfsonly.com/calculators/crf450-valve-shim-calc.php

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