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Cook Like Your Ancestors - Mariah-Rose Marie

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An Illustrated Guide to Intuitive Cooking

With Recipes From Around the World


“In this delightfully illustrated book,
Mariah-Rose Marie writes about intuitive
cooking with such thoughtfulness, respect,
and specificity. Even though I already
mostly cook this way, having these concepts
explained so clearly felt like it brought me
closer to my own processes — and to the
lineage of people I learned how to cook from.
The included recipes feel like an invitation
to indulgence; this book feels like a warm
hug and a meal prepared by a friend.”

-Shing Yin Khor,


Say It With Noodles and National
Book Award Finalist The Legend of
Auntie Po

“Cook Like Your Ancestors not only presents


a colorful variety of international recipes,
but is also a thoughtful collection of cultural
cooking wisdom. Filled with helpful, easy-
to-understand basics and instructions, this
book is a beautiful guide to home cooking
with care!”

-Cynthia Yuan Cheng,


co-editor of Family Style: An AAPI
Food Anthology

“Mariah-Rose Marie has created an All-


American cookbook in the fullest sense of
the term. A culinary kaleidoscope of flavors,
described in tasty illustrations. Let this
combo awaken your palate.”

-Dan Haskett,
character designer on The Little
Mermaid, Beauty and the Beast and
The Simpsons
cook like
your
ancestors
by mariah-rose marie
contents
the guide
about 6
introduction to intuition 10
tools & maintenance 20
ingredients 28

the cookbook
snacks & sides 38
mains 52
drinks 68
sweets 82

acknowledgments 95
For my grandmother, who taught us everything.
you are so missed, and so loved.
6
7
Have you ever met someone who never seems to use recipes, yet makes on-point meals every time?
It seems to be a magic preserved only in the hands of grandmothers, or any passionate provider.
An ancient, special knowledge… something that takes a lifetime to perfect.

But that’s not always true.


You can start learning now, and you probably
already know far more than you think.

Ahead lies an intimate, comic-filled cookbook featuring plant-based


and vegetarian recipes of my family, my friends, my own, and contributors worldwide.
Some recipes are traditional, while many others reflect the migrations, mixtures,
influences, and even losses between countries and generations.

It also serves as a guide and introduction to intuitive food preparation — meaning less
reliance on teaspoons, grams, degrees, and exact cook times — and more on the way humans have
cooked food forever: by tasting, watching, smelling, listening, and feeling.

8 When I say COOK LIKE YOUR ANCESTORS, this is what I mean.


While exact recipes often seem less intimidating for people just learning to cook, they are not always
reliable, and sometimes require equipment that can be financially steep or fussy to use.
None of that is here.

This book was made with international and financial accessibility in mind,
and to change the often undervalued and commodified perceptions of “ethnic” food.
It’s my hope that readers will open their minds and hearts to the special people and flavors
in every corner of this ruthlessly divided yet increasingly globalized earth, and most
especially those that have vastly been holding it down the longest: grandmas. 9
introduction
to intuition
Black people don’t measure seasonings. We just sprinkle & shake
until we hear the spirits of our ancestors whisper, “enough my child.”

— NiAsia Danielle
measurement alternatives
Most of the world’s kitchens do not have standardized measuring tools, but it certainly doesn’t stop people
from eating well. Learning to wean yourself off of these tools leads to greater confidence, fewer dirty dishes,
a better understanding of your food, and the ability to cook anywhere, and with anything. Here is a quick
guide to the terms you’ll see throughout this book.

Let’s begin with:


the hand

1. A “pinch” of salt.

2. “finger(s)” of oil, or enough


oil to fill a pan a finger
segment deep.

3. A “thumb” of ginger, or a
piece about the size of your
thumb.

4. A “handful” of spinach.
This is rather literal.

12
When it comes to spices, a “layer,” or shaking until there’s a light, even application of the spice on a dish is
usually sufficient for flavor. For those less trusting in their spice application intuition however, stick to…

spoonfuls
Australia: UK & Canada:
Metric, 20 mL Imperial, 15 mL

USA:
Queen Anne, 14.8 mL

To avoid the mess of converting the nonsensical imperial system to the


metric, use of either is limited in this book, with the exception of some
cakes. No matter what country you reside in, your standard, everyday
spoon (the bigger one!) will do just fine.

13
golden ratios
Getting comfy with ratios means you can more easily adapt to changes in how many people you’ll serve.
Just taking a mental note of ratios is a helpful habit with anything from cooking beans and lentils,
to more dynamic combinations such as the proportion of cabbage to kimchi paste, or brown sugar to
tamarind concentrate.

Take rice, for example. Cooking most kinds such as jasmine, basmati, and your typical short grain white
rice requires precision, calling for a rice-to-water ratio of 1:1.5.

No measuring cup? No worries. Use any container to measure this out! I use a
drinking cup that I can easily discern where half is. Just be aware that different
varieties and styles call for different ratios. Japanese white short grain uses a
rice to water ratio of 1:1.2, but some wild rice can use up to a whopping 1:6!

14
the order of things
On this planet, there are likely as many variations in the ways people traditionally cook as there are
cultures. But the world over, as reflected in this book, there is a general pattern that even the most
complicated sauces, stews, soups, and stir frys follow that’s helpful to know. These are the essential
steps for most dishes that allow cooks to commit foods to memory.

preparation
Legumes and grains are the staples of our species. Be
it beans and rice or lentils and millet, many must be
cleaned and soaked. Make sure to account for the time
it takes to wash, soak, or salt the ingredients you need
for your dish.

cooking
1. Sauteeing your aromatics in fat almost always comes
first. These are your onions, garlic, shallots, roux,
pastes, and/or whole spices that will create the base
flavor for your entire dish. Start slow, you don’t want
to burn this.

2. Add your main, longer-cooking ingredients &


seasonings, including salt. Incorporate well and allow
the flavors to intermingle.

3. If the recipe calls for a wet ingredient (crushed


tomato, broth, water, wine, etc.) it goes in around here.

4. Bring that flame down to a simmer and cook as long


as necessary for desired texture, reduction, and/or
flavor. Taste and adjust as you go.

5. Final adjustments take place here, as well as the


addition of any fresher ingredients whose texture
you’d like to preserve. When ready, remove from heat,
garnish, and enjoy.

15
flavors
All peoples have distinct flavor combinations that make a particular food culture unique. The climate,
geography, economy, and history of a place changes the ingredients key to these flavors. For example,
Korean dishes historically balance sweet, sour, salt, bitter, and spice, while Guyanese foods reflect an
incredible blend of global foodways in their spice, umami, sweet, and salt. No matter what flavor profile
you’re trying to create, finding the balance within each dish is vital to good eating.

sweet
Perhaps most enjoyed in fruits or
desserts, a little sweetness can go a
long way in cutting through heat and
bitterness, as well as balancing acidity.

spice
Too often feared and much beloved:
only chilies bring on the heat of
capsaicin. But a kick can be found in
horseradish or hot mustard as well.

bitter
While not too popular in the west,
bitterness is vital to balancing many
dishes, and is often a sign of high
nutritional value in a vegetable.

16
salt
is king. When used before cooking,
it makes tough greens tender, draws
water out of vegetables, and mellows
strong flavors. When used while
cooking, it enhances all flavors, but
especially uplifts sweetness and
counteracts bitterness.
balances

enhances

sour
Whether it be tangy, tart, acidic, or
outright mouth-puckering, sourness
often provides a refreshing brightness to
dishes. Enjoy via citrus juice, vinegars,
fermented vegetables, yogurts, etc.

umami
is savory incarnate. In its purest form, it’s monosodium
glutamate, a crystallized product extracted from the process
of fermenting sugary crops. But essential glutamate is a
richness that’s also found naturally in tomatoes, cheeses,
mushrooms, meats, and many fermented or aged foods.
17
Recipes are your guide, but all kinds of
factors (such as a finicky oven, or baking at
5,000 feet above sea level) can make them
unreliable. Your 5 senses are what should
lead you in the kitchen.

We eat with our eyes. How is the color?


Golden brown? Red and ripe?

Frying something? Well, if it doesn’t


sound like an autumn leaf crunching
underfoot, try again.

Deliciousness is the only way to know


if you’ve succeeded.

a note on preference
We all know the type of cook who sees “2 cloves of garlic”
in a recipe, then proceeds to use 6. Or garnishes everything
with a hot chili and a mountain of cilantro. Or maybe that’s
just me. But that’s ok! Because it’s up to you.
18
The sixth sense. If you’ve had this
dish before, how does yours compare
to that first magical time?

Are the textures where you want?


How is the consistency?

Don’t be afraid to
modify a recipe. Omit
something you hate, or
add something you just
know would go perfectly
with it. Is a particular
ingredient hard to find,
or wildly expensive?
Research substitutes.
There’s no shame.

19
tools &
maintenance
cook’s dozen
Don’t let bougie home chefs fool you. 12 basic tools are all that’s needed to make most anything!

a proper SHARP
chef’s knife
Let the 10-knife block set go.
Quality over quantity.

If you want to be a total


badass who knows how to
sharpen your own blades, invest
in a whetstone (400/1000 grit
is great for beginners!) or find a
sharpening service in your area.

stainless steel
or ceramic coated
baking sheet* enamel or ceramic
wooden coated dutch oven*
spoon or A stockpot works too, but
spatula dutch ovens are oven safe.

mortar & pestle


(or coffee grinder)
Trust. Using fresh spices
will change your life!

22
1. carbon steel
2. cast iron
3. ceramic coated pan*

blender
Immersion blenders are good
for many things too, and cost
less than standard blenders.

Consider safely disposing of your traditional


grater nonstick (aka Teflon) cookware ASAP.
When chipped, scratched, or heated to high
temperatures, exposure to the slippery
chemicals used in the coating (PFAS, eg.
PFOAs and GenX) are linked to a number of
cancers, birth defects, thyroid disruption,
XL chopsticks liver and blood problems, bird deaths and
are major environmental pollutants.
(or tongs)
Excellent for frying. The compounds are banned in over 180
countries, but many countries such as the
can opener US are notably lax in their regulation and
disposal. While some alternatives may cost
more up front, with proper care they can be
safely nonstick for more than a lifetime.
23
I can personally vouch for One time, I went camping with
the incredible reliability of my trusty new-ish cast iron.
a $20 USD cast iron pan.
Here’s a story about... Confident that it was virtually
indestructible, I put it directly
on the fire to cook dinner.

Next thing I knew the pan was When it finally cooled,


glowing red enough for a blacksmith. the pan was utterly
stripped of all its
protective surface
and had immediately
started to rust.

It’s not ruined!


I called my grandmother
when I got home,
You just burned
shamefully recounting
the seasoning
what happened, and ready
off, but you can
to throw the pan out.
put it on again.
24
For context, a cast iron skillet is
found in most any southern home,
and my grandmother had an ancient
and perfectly maintained collection.

They do everything! Sauté, sear, So without further ado, from my grandmother to you:
broil, bake, boil, blanch, stir-fry,
and deep fry in ‘em. The more oil
you use, the blacker, smoother, and
slicker they become. This coating is
what’s called the seasoning.
And it’s hard to mess up.

Thinly coat the entire skillet in any neutral


tasting oil (like canola or sunflower, not olive or
coconut). If you hadn’t burnt all of it off, you’d
just spread the oil on the inside. I like to use
a paper towel to spread it evenly. If the oil is
running off in the oven, you’ve used too much.
25
Pop it in the oven at 300°F I like to do it in the
or so degrees and let it bake cooler months, as the oven
for 4-6 hours. You should do will warm up the house.
this maybe 2 times a year, or
whenever the seasoning seems
thin and food starts sticking.

You don’t need


soap when cleaning
it, hot water and a
scrubber is fine.

Dry it totally when you’re done


washing, and rub a little oil on it
if you just cooked with something
acidic like tomatoes.

In this case though, you’re


gonna wanna do a few rounds, and
layer on the outside, too.

26
My baby was black again!
I was shocked.
And I still use it nearly every day.

Thank you, Grandmother...

Don’t worry, babe. Now


you know. And you can tell
all your lil’ friends too.

27
ingredients
produce
Unfortunately, the huge agriculture companies that supply most
of the world’s food love to treat the soil, animals, and crops we eat
with toxic chemicals. In this book I will ask you to be mindful of
where you source your produce, and how you peel, clean, or scrub
it, especially in recipes that require the outer parts of a plant.

no synthetic herbicides,
pesticides or fertilizers.
(however many contain chemicals
banned in most other countries that
are used regularly here in the US! )

supports smaller scale farmers.


(who are less of a strain on ecosystems)

usually tastes better.

30
supports your local growers.

many farmers don’t bother with or can’t


afford to go through the process of
becoming federally certified organic, but
still grow wonderful, safe produce.

while both local and organic are ideal, it’s


up to you to investigate what methods your
local producers are using to grow their food.

often the cheapest and most widely


accessible option.

You can clean off many harmful residues


with this easy, dirt-cheap, homemade
produce wash:

• 1 part white vinegar to 4 parts water


• 1 spoonful salt
• 1 spoonful baking soda
• a good squeeze of lemon

Soak or spray your produce, let sit for 5-25


mins before rinsing or scrubbing clean.
31
keeping it seasonal
While it can be hard to stay true to given the globally collaborative nature of this book, the best way to
secure great-tasting produce at their nutritional peak is by paying attention to when it’s in season.

Supplementing your produce purchases


at Farmer’s Markets, with local sellers,
or through CSA programs (Community
Supported Agriculture) will lead to
seasonal buys naturally.
32
fats
Coconut, avocado, olive oil, or ghee are the healthiest. Their high smoke points mean you
can fry or cook most anything in them without the risk of carcinogens.

about that vegan butter...


Unfortunately nearly every plant-based butter subsitute uses palm oil, an ingredient native to West
Africa whose unchecked production has razed rainforests from Indonesia to the Amazon, displacing
indigenous peoples and destoying precious biodiverse ecosystems. Its ability to be harvested ethically is
dubious, regardless of certifications.

While it may seem to be in everything, try to find brands without this ingredient! If you can’t (depending
on your diet and access), it may be more ethical to buy local small batch butter from free-roaming cows
than it is to buy palm-based oils shipped in from across the globe. 33
specialty markets
Culture-specific grocery stores are a godsend if you’re lucky enough to live close to one.
Some recipes in this book have ingredients that might make you question your shopping list.

Well, it doesn’t make sense to buy this To that I say: JUST DO IT.
insanely good-smelling spice, who knows
when I’ll make Eritrean food next?

Preferably
at your
local
grocery!

Here’s a few reasons why:

price Items are often cheaper than


buying from high-end stores that may carry
the same products (eg. Whole Foods) that
don’t have any concern or financial ties
to the communities they benefit from.

34
SEASONALITY Depending on your locale freshness You’ll find that popular
(warmer coastal regions are best with this), produce is produce, herbs and spices have a higher
often more seasonally rotated, meaning great deals at turnover rate, meaning fresher flavors.
peak harvest time and less strain on the planet to grow
and ship out of season produce.

bulk Though the sizes might be


intimidating, spices store great in air-tight
containers or a freezer, and you can always
split them up with someone who’s equally
down to throw down in the kitchen.

And them’s the basics! So tie


back your hair, wash your
hands, and get in the kitchen,
cuz we’re ready to...

35
cook like
your
ancestors
starters
snacks
& sides
Navajo Frybread / Dah Díníilghaazh
by Hailie Coutee via ​​Mawmaw Coutee & Chief Arthur Bennett

Fry bread has become universally adored


amongst Indigenous communities in the US,
but its origins can be traced to the Navajo
tribes of the Long Walk. The Long Walk was
the culmination of attempted genocide via
government violence, terror, and scorched earth
campaign in 1856, in which Diné adults and
children were forcibly marched for hundreds of
miles from their ancestral homelands and into
forced internment.

With no access to their traditional foodways,


they were reliant on canned and processed
origin: Diné Bikéyah
rations from the US government. What began as yield: 5 pieces approx
lard, flour, and sugar became fry bread: a story
of survival and resistance.

ingredients
• 2 cups flour FRYING PRO-TIP:
• 4 teaspoons baking powder Take a tiny pinch of dough and put in the
• warm water (usually about 155 mL or 2/3 cup) oil. When the oil is hot enough, it will
• shortening/oil of your choice rise to the top and bubble immediately.
• cornmeal
No thermometer needed here!
• seasonings of your choice (optional)

method
Combine flour, baking powder, and seasonings in a large bowl. Spices like cinnamon or onion powder will do depending on if you
want plain, sweet, or savory fry bread.

Add warm water and work the dough until the dough is smooth and no longer sticky.
Divide dough into balls of your size preference. (I like mine to be about the size of a tangerine.)

Dust your rolling surface with cornmeal or flour. Roll out the balls of dough into a rough circle, a little thinner than your pinkie
finger. Score an X through the center of each dough patty.
method (continued)
Put about 3 fingers (~2 in / 4 cm) of shortening or oil
in a pan and heat until ready to fry, then cook one at
a time, flipping bread once one side is golden brown.

When both sides are golden, remove from oil


and pat dry or drain oil with paper towels.

Once cooled, top however you like! For breakfast,


top with eggs, cheese, or tomatoes. Sweet ones
with honey, fruit, jams, or powdered sugar are also
excellent, and fry bread tacos are also common.
Nizhónígo adííyįįł!

41
Kashk-e Bademjan / ‫کشک و بادمجان‬
by Camellia Jahanshahi via parents Kamran Jahanshahi & Julie Milner
and grandmas Becky Milner & Mahin Mahooi

No region in the world transforms the


humble aubergine / eggplant into such
a delicious form as in North Africa,
Southwest Asia, and the Balkans. Zeroing in
on the delight that is Persian food, Kashk-e
Bademjan is special in its richness and
slight tang from the kashk — fermented
whey from yogurt — but can also easily be
made without dairy. This dish makes for a
lovely appetizer or a meal on its own.

origin: Iran
ingredients yield: 2-4 servings
• 4 large eggplants • 1 spoonful turmeric
• 1 large onion, sliced into thin half moons • 1 handful of fresh mint leaves,
• 1/2 bulb or ~6 cloves garlic, minced chopped or 1 spoonful dried mint
• 2-3 spoons of kashk* • a dozen or so walnuts, chopped
• olive oil, for sautéing • black pepper, to taste * If you can’t find kashk,
• 1 spoonful chili powder • salt subsitute Greek style yogurt.

method
Slice your eggplants in half lengthwise, removing stem and bottom. Optionally, you can score them as well. Place in a colander
or strainer to layer generously with salt and let stand until softened and dripping water, about 15 minutes.

While the salt does its work, cook onions and garlic low and slow in oil to caramelize. When soft and golden, stir in walnuts,
turmeric and half of your mint leaves (or all if dried), then remove from heat and set aside.

Rinse the salt off your eggplants with cold water and pat dry. Drizzle your eggplant slices in oil, salt, pepper, and chili powder, then
place face-down in an oven safe dish. Roast on high, at roughly 380 degrees (though it depends on the oven), until soft and brown,
about 25-30 minutes. Don’t forget to rotate your pan halfway through for even roasting!

Once your eggplant is ready, scrape out all of the inner flesh into a bowl with your onion and garlic mixture. If eggplant is organic,
you can leave the skin on for texture. Incorporate fully over medium heat, then add kashk one spoon at a time, seasoning to taste.

Best served warm with hot flat bread. Garnish with more oil, walnuts, and mint and enjoy!
43
Asinan Bogor
by Rachel Simanjuntak via family friend Tanta Elvie

Asinan is a perfect example of the skillful


balancing of flavors that’s so notable in
Southeast Asian cuisine. This West Javan dish
has it all: salty, spicy, sweet, sour, and savory,
all joining beautifully in each bite. In a perfect
display of convergent food evolution, those
living in or near Mexico will find asinan similar
to the cups of chili and lime-soaked fruits sold
by street vendors. In Indonesia too, you can
find this dish being sold cold as a refreshing
boost on a hot day.
origin: West Java
yield: 2-4 servings
ingredients
• 1 small jicama
• 1 sweet, tart apple like honeycrisp or pink lady
• ½ pineapple method
• 1 cucumber In a large bowl, combine pickling liquid ingredients and stir until sugar
• 1 ripe mango is dissolved. Taste as you go for that delicate balance of sweet, tangy,
• 1 fresh chili of your choice, thinly sliced spicy, and umami. Adjust as desired.

Slice all other ingredients (except the chili) into bite-size pieces, no more
for the pickling liquid than 1 cm thick. Add all ingredients to the pickling liquid and stir well.
• juice from ½ fresh pineapple
Let sit overnight in the fridge, and serve cold!
(if in season, otherwise optional)
• 4-8 spoons white vinegar
• 4 spoons palm sugar or dark brown sugar
• ½ spoon teaspoon of fish sauce or 1 spoon of sea salt
• 1 spoon sambal oelek, or bird’s eye chili, minced

44
45
àkàrà & kanni-kosayi
by me via grandmother Rose

As diasporic as a dish can be, these black-


eyed pea fritters are known by many names
amongst the descendants of kidnapped and
enslaved Africans. In Brazil, they’re acarajé, in
much of the Caribbean aacra, and in its origin
countries in West Africa koose, kosai, and of
course, the Yoruba àkàrà. Black-eyed peas have
much spiritual significance amongst these
populations, and are native to West Africa
where they have been cultivated for millennia.

origin: West Africa


ingredients yield: 25 fritters approx
• 1 cup / 140 g dry black-eyed peas
• 1 red onion, cut in fourths
• 5 or so cloves of garlic
• thumb-sized piece of ginger
for the kanni-kosayi inspired sauce
• 1 scotch bonnet • 1 yellow onion, diced • glug of white or cane vinegar
or habañero chili, halved • 3 stalks green onion, chopped • 4 heaping spoonfuls tomato paste
• 3 stems’ worth of thyme leaves, • 3-5 cloves garlic, chopped • ½ spoonful black pepper
or 1 spoon dried • 1 large tomato, diced • oil, for sauteéing
• oil, for frying or 1 large can of crushed tomatoes • water
• water • 1 scotch bonnet or habañero chili, minced • salt
• salt • 2 jalapeño peppers, diced

method
Prepare the beans by rinsing thoroughly, then soaking in water for at least two hours.

While the beans soak, prepare your sauce by sautéing onions, garlic, tomato, and chilies until softened and aromatic. Add tomato
paste, vinegar, and a good splash of water. Stirring regularly, cook on low to reduce mixture to a nice, thickened sauce, about 10-20
mins depending on your pot, and adding salt and black pepper to taste.

Optionally, blend or mash with a fork to reach desired texture, then store in an airtight container. The sauce will keep for weeks
when refrigerated!
method
When the peas have softened and doubled in size, rub them together a handful at a time to remove their hulls. Some
people like to remove all hulls to create a smoother batter, while others don’t de-hull at all. I like to leave most of the
hulls on, as this is where the majority of the fiber and nutrients are found! (Okay, and because dehulling takes ages.)

Blend the peas, onion, garlic, ginger, chili, and thyme until smooth, adding as little water as necessary to help the blender
along. Add salt to taste, starting at about two spoonfuls. Then, using a fork or whisk, stir lots of air into the batter. The
batter should be thick and airy. Some folks will even use an electric whisk for a beignet-textured final product.

Heat three fingers (~2 in or 4 cm) of cooking oil in a pan. Remember to test if it’s ready by putting in a tiny amount
of batter in. If it doesn’t bubble instantly, wait a bit longer. Place a spoon’s worth of batter into the oil. Turn until
evenly golden brown and crispy, about 3-4 minutes, then scoop them out and drain on paper towels. Serve warm
with kanni-kosayi and enjoy!

47
Dolma / ‫دولمة‬
by Maysam Al-Ani via mom Samira Al-Ani

Originating in Greece, stuffed grape leaves are


now commonly enjoyed all over the Balkans,
Middle East, and Turkey. Traditionally Iraqi
dolma is made with a variety of stuffed
vegetables, but this condensed recipe refers
to only the leaf-rolled dolma. Like folding
dumplings or stuffing peppers, rolling so many
grape leaves is a collaborative effort, but many
hands make light work. Conversations of all
kinds take place during these bonding sessions,
imbuing the dolma with sentimentality in
addition to their wonderful flavor.
origin: Iraq via Greece
yield: 30 dolmas
ingredients
• 370 grams or 2 cups long grain rice
• 1 yellow onion, diced
• 4 cloves of garlic, minced
for the cooking broth
• 1 bell pepper, diced • 4 spoons pomegranate molasses
• 1 tomato, diced • 4 spoons tomato paste
• 8 spoons tomato paste • 470 ml or 2 cups water
• juice of ½ lemon • ½ spoon black pepper
• 1 handful parsley, chopped • 2 spoons salt
• 30 grape leaves* blanched
(or rinsed if in brine)
• 1 spoonful cumin
• 1 spoonful coriander
• ½ spoonful paprika
• ½ spoonful salt
• olive oil

* Swiss chard is also a good substitute, cut to


similar size and with stems removed.

48
method
Wash, then soak the rice in water for at least 15 minutes.

While soaking your rice, combine all cooking broth ingredients in a saucepan
and bring to a simmer, heating just enough to dissolve everything.

Drain your rice, and combine it in a bowl with all the ingredients for the
filling (onion, garlic, tomato, tomato paste, lemon juice, bell pepper, parsley,
and spices). Use your hands to mix thoroughly.

Lay your grape leaves flat, remove the stems, and place a spoonful of filling in
the middle, and roll!

Pour a generous layer of olive oil on the bottom of a large pot, and stack the
stuffed leaves in a circular pattern, seam side down.

49
method (continued)
Pour the broth over your rolled leaves, leaving the top layer about halfway above the liquid level, and if
possible cover with a heat resistant plate beneath the pot lid.

Bring to a boil. After 15 minutes, taste the liquid and adjust spices accordingly before lowering to a
simmer until the dolma have absorbed all of the broth, about a half hour.

Once complete, remove from heat and set the pot aside to cool.

Remove the pot lid and plate, replacing it with a serving dish, and swiftly flip the dolma onto it.
Executing the flip perfectly takes experience, so perhaps get someone to help you, or simply scoop the
dolma out one by one onto the tray.

lid

plate

dolma

broth

olive
oil

50
51
mains
ở Gà
Phở
by Lam Thuy Vo via mother Lua Nguyen Thi

You likely know pho. Born in the 1880’s out


of rice noodles brought from China and beef
popularized by French occupying forces, pho
is Vietnam’s national dish. But it wasn’t until
Vietnamese refugees fleeing the resistance war
against the US began to settle in other countries
that pho became so popular.

This southern-style pho is traditionally made


with gà, or chicken, but this plant-based version
still brings on that heartwarming umami feel. It
takes little to understand why pho today is one
of the most globally loved soups of all time. origin: Vietnam
yield: 4 bowls
ingredients
• 1 package (250 grams or 8 ounces) of banh pho
(but you can use any thin flat rice noodles, such as
for the marinated tofu
pad thai noodles) • 1 block firm tofu
• 1 large yellow onion • 3 cloves garlic, crushed or minced
• 1 whole ginger root, about the size of your hand • 4 spoonfuls soy sauce or tamari
• 10-12 dried shiitake mushrooms • 1 spoon sugar
• 5 ½ liters or 6 quarts of water • 1 spoon hoisin sauce (optional)
• 3 cinnamon sticks* • oil, for pan-frying
• 3 star anise*
• 1 spoonful black peppercorns* for serving
• ½ spoonful coriander seeds*
• 1 yellow onion, sliced into half-moons • 1 jalapeño, sliced thin
• 5 cardamom pods*
• 2 scallions, sliced • black pepper, ground
• 2 large pods of black cardamom*
• 3 handfuls beansprouts • hoisin sauce
• 4 spoonfuls salt
• 5-6 sprigs sweet Thai basil, stems removed • sriracha
• 2 spoonfuls sugar
• 6-12 sprigs and/or leaves of cilantro
• 1 lime, cut into wedges
* Don’t worry about a bulk buy if you don’t have all
these on hand. These spices can often be found all
together in packets in Vietnamese grocery stores.
method
Prepare your tofu marinade in advance. In a storage container, combine soy
sauce, crushed garlic, a pinch of black pepper, and one spoonful of sugar.
Optionally, add in a spoonful of hoisin sauce.

Cut tofu into thin strips, and coat evenly in marinade.

Set aside as you make your broth, or for an even richer flavor, prepare the
day before and let sit in the fridge overnight.

Char the large onion and the ginger on open flame until blackened on
both sides, about 10 minutes. Alternatively, broil on high in the oven for
5 minutes per side.

Run the charred onion and ginger under cold water and vigorously rub off
blackened bits.

In a large stock pot, bring the water to a boil.

If you are not using a spice packet, wrap cheesecloth around the cinnamon,
star anise, peppercorns, coriander seeds, and black and green cardamom
to form a pouch. When the water is boiling, add the spice pouch, charred
onion, ginger, salt, and sugar to the water.

55
method (continued)
Lower the flame to medium and continue to simmer the broth until
golden yellow, or for about 1½-2 hours. (Or go on longer to develop
stronger flavors… next-day pho may be my favorite kind of pho.)

Cook noodles as directed on package, and begin to portion them out


into bowls.

Pan fry your tofu strips in a little oil until crispy on each side. Lay desired
amount over noodle portions.

Pour 2-3 ladles of broth over the noodles and tofu, then garnish with
sliced onions, scallions, cilantro, and a pinch of black pepper on top. Serve
with Thai basil, bean sprouts, cilantro, lime, jalapeno, sriracha, and hoisin
on the side — pho can be as spicy, acidic, or savory as you like!

56
57
Pulneni Chuski / пълнени чушки
by Stella Kamenova via baba Masha Todorova

Between Slavic, Greek, Roman, Ottoman, and


Soviet influences, the small gorgeous Balkan
country of Bulgaria’s food is as diverse as its
history. The capital of Sofia is notable for their
food-stands year round, but the colder month
specialties of roasted chestnuts, squash, and
sun-dried peppers (as featured in this Christmas
Eve recipe) are especially nice. If you don’t have
access to these food stalls, worry not, as oven-
drying your peppers will do the trick!

ingredients origin: Bulgaria


yield: 10 stuffed peppers
• 10 fresh or sun-dried red peppers (bell or paprika)
• 1 cup dry white beans, or ~2 cans
• 2 stalks of leek, halved and cleaned, then chopped finely
• sunflower oil
• ½ spoon dried savory
(thyme is a decent substitute if you can’t find this!)
• 1 spoon chili paprika
• 1 spoon dried peppermint
• 1 spoon salt

method
If using dry beans, soak beans in warm salted water for 24 hours, or
bring beans in the salted water to a boil and let sit for at least 2 hours.

If working from fresh peppers, remove the stem and core of your
paprikas (or bell peppers) and lie flat on a baking sheet. Drizzle with
some oil and salt, then bake at the lowest temperature your oven will go,
leaving the door open a crack to let out moisture. Check on them every
half hour for about 1.5-2 hours, or until they look something like this:

If you’re able to procure sun-dried peppers, place them in a bowl and


cover them in boiling water. Let soak for about a half hour.
method (continued)
In the meantime, work on your beans. Strain the soaking water out, and cover the beans with fresh
water. Boil until soft, about an hour, then strain.

Sauté leek in oil until softened and a little brown. Add salt, beans, paprika, peppermint, and savory.
Mix well, then set aside to cool down a bit before mashing together to a nice paste.

Stuff your peppers with the bean mash using a spoon. Arrange peppers and bake at 180 C / 365 F or so,
until all is nicely browned, or for about a half hour. Serve cool, and enjoy!

59
Pālakūra Pappu / పాలకూర పప్పు
by Rishi C. via amma Siva

While the Telugu people of Southern India have


an incredible array of cooking traditions, their
foods are known especially well for their heat
and tang. This quick yet nutritious and deeply
satisfying dish puts both flavors on display.
It also introduces tadka: a noun, a verb, and
a type of pan, but mostly a vital technique in
Indian kitchens. So though it may be difficult to
get your hands on some of the famous chili or
pickle varieties of Andhra Pradesh, you can still
experience the flavor here.
origin: South India
yield: 4 bowls

ingredients
• 2 big bunches of spinach
for the tadka
• 250 g or ½ pound split yellow peas • 4 spoons vegetable oil or ghee
• 4 hot green chilies, sliced thin • 7 cloves of garlic, sliced thin
• flesh of 1 tamarind seed • 1 hot green chili, sliced thin
(or 1 spoon of tamarind concentrate) • 2 dried red chili peppers, crushed
• 1 spoon turmeric • 1 spoon mustard seed
• ½ spoon chili powder • 1 spoon cumin seeds
• salt, to taste • 5 curry leaves
• water or vegetable stock • salt, to taste

method
Soak the peas overnight for faster cooking time and easier digestion. Drain off soaking water and add peas to a pot with 1:2 ratio of
fresh, well-salted water or vegetable stock and cook at a steady simmer.

Add your tamarind concentrate. If using fresh tamarind, place your segment in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Let it sit until
cooled off, then squeeze the seed of its flesh and water into the pappu.

Keep cooking your peas until they’ve absorbed most of the water or broth, then add spinach and chilies. Taste and adjust salt or
chili powder as you go.
method (continued)
In a separate small saucepan (or if you have one, a tadka) heat vegetable oil to high, and add tadka
ingredients. Be careful not to burn the garlic and fresh chili! You’ll know it’s ready when the mustard
seeds, cumin, and curry leaves are audibly popping.

When serving, top the pappu generously with tadka. Eat with rice or warm naan and enjoy!

61
Marak Temani / ‫מרק תימני‬
by Ori Hamburg via mom Bath-Khen Greenberg & safta Miryam Katabi

Marak Temani, Hebrew for “Yemeni Soup”


is a stew originating from the Jewish people
of Yemen, the most ancient existing Jewish
community in the world! Though usually
made with spice-rubbed beef or chicken,
the heart and soul of this soup is in the
spice itself: hawaij, a regular fixture in the
kitchens of the Arabian Peninsula, the
recipe for which is included here.

origin: Yemen
ingredients yield: 4 bowls
• olive oil
• 1 liter or 4 cups of water or vegetable stock
• 1 large yellow onion, chopped
for the hawaij
• 6 cloves garlic, chopped fine • 5 spoonfuls cumin seed
• 2 carrots or 1 sweet potato, sliced • 4 spoonfuls black peppercorns
• 3 potatoes, wedged • 3 spoonfuls turmeric powder
• 5 spoonfuls tomato paste, or 1 tomato, grated • 2 spoonfuls coriander seed
• 3 heaping spoons of hawaij • 1 spoonful green cardamom pods
• ½ bunch of cilantro, chopped • 1 spoonful cloves
• 1 jalapeño (optional)
• salt, to taste

method
If you can’t find hawaij in a store, worry not. Dry toast all the hawaij spices (meaning without oil) then blend or pound until finely ground.

For the soup, bring broth or water to a boil. Add onion, garlic, potatoes, carrots, tomato or tomato paste, hawaij, and half of the
cilantro, adding salt to taste. Cook until carrots and potatoes are soft, around a half hour.

Serve with remaining cilantro, a splash of oil and diced chili (a shortcut for mouthwatering s’hug).

Best enjoyed with kubanah, or whatever fresh bread you can get your hands on. B’tayavon!
63
Samla Curry / សម្លរការី
by Darianealy Keo Butler via Mama Any

At the heart of many Khmer dishes is the


kroueng, a general term for a variety of rich
aromatic-based pastes. The yellow kroueng
in this recipe blossoms in the creaminess of
the coconut broth to make a flavor that will
leave you dreaming of it weeks after you’ve
finished the last bowl.

Every aspect of the Khmer people, culture,


history, and foodways are to be treasured not
only for what they are, but especially because
of how close the world came to losing it all in
the Cambodian genocide of the 1970s. Those origin: Cambodia
residing outside of Cambodia are lucky to
yield: 4 bowls
experience Khmer food in all of its diasporic
forms, and this (non-traditionally vegan)
curry is no exception!

ingredients for the kroueng


• coconut oil (or any oil but olive) • 1 spoon madras (or east Asian style) curry powder
• 1 can of coconut cream • 1 star anise
• 1 can of coconut milk • 1 spoon tomato paste
• 1-2 cups of vegetable stock • 3-4 garlic cloves
• big handful of green beans, trimmed & chopped • 2 shallots, halved
• 2-3 sweet potatoes, chopped • 2 kaffir lime leaves (or the zest from 1 lime)
(skin on if organic, otherwise peeled) • 1 inch galangal or ginger root
• 1 spoon fish sauce, soy sauce or tamari • 1 inch turmeric root (or 1 spoon powdered)
• 3-6 bird’s eye chilies
for serving • 2 stalks lemongrass, peeled with root ends smashed & chopped

• sprigs of cilantro
• leaves of thai basil
• 1 lime, cut into wedges
• 1 chili, sliced thin

64
method
Begin with the kroueng by peeling off the tough outer layers of the lemongrass stalks, cutting off the bulb and ends. On the
bulb end, use the handle of your knife or pestle to beat it to bits, then chop roughly. You can compost the rest of the stalk.

Combine all the curry paste ingredients together with a blender or mortar and pestle until smooth. If using a blender,
you may need to add a bit of water to help the blades out. Next, heat oil in a pan over low heat. Add kroueng and
spread thin over the oil, cooking until fragrant and no longer raw.

65
method (continued)
Add the coconut cream, coconut milk, vegetable stock, soy sauce, and sweet potatoes. Bring to a boil, then reduce
heat to a low simmer, cooking until potatoes are tender, about 30 minutes. Add your green beans here, or halfway
depending on your preference for a tender or crunchy feel.

Taste the curry periodically as you cook and add more fish sauce, soy sauce, or curry powder to your preference.

Serve with steamed jasmine rice or a fresh baguette. Chhnang!

66
67
drinks
Morir Soñando
by Eva Lia Pedriglieri via Mami & Tiasa

Morir soñando translates literally as “to


die dreaming,” and the flavor lives up to
the poetry. Some enjoy this with the juice
of lime, others with passionfruit, but
traditionally oranges and evaporated milk
are key. Only made up of 3 ingredients, this
distinctly Dominican drink is hard to pull
off beautifully. If the ingredients are not at
the proper temperature, the milk will look
curdled. But if this happens, no worries and
don’t waste it! It’ll still taste like a dream.

origin: Dominican Republic


ingredients yield: 2 glasses
• 1 cup or 250 ml freshly squeezed
& strained orange juice
• 1.5 cup or 350 ml whole or evaporated
milk, or milk substitute
• drop of vanilla extract method
• cane sugar, to taste Stir sugar and optional vanilla extract into the milk.
• orange slices, to serve
• crushed ice, to serve Put both the orange juice and milk in separate containers,
and store in the freezer.

Just as the liquids reach the brink of freezing over, remove


from the cold. How long this takes will depend on your climate,
freezer, and juice temperature, but start checking on it after
10-15 minutes.

Add orange juice slowly into milk, stirring vigorously until


throughly combined.

Pour into glasses over crushed ice, and garnish with orange
slices. Enjoy immediately. Dulces sueños~

70
71
Beet Kvass / свекольный квас
by V. Dyakonov via his mom’s Soviet-era cookbook

Traditionally made with stale rye bread


or flours, kvass is a soda-like fermented
beverage often enjoyed in warm Eastern
European summers, with its unclear origins
predating Russia itself. While beet kvass is
not very common, it’s simpler to make and
is excellent for those who are fond of the
earthy-sweet flavor beets are so known for.
Make sure to find organic beets, or those
grown without pesticides, as you want a healthy
microbial biome to get the ferment going.

origin: Slavic East Europe


ingredients
yield: 4 glasses
• 3 large beets, preferably organic or 8 servings if used as concentrate
• filtered or boiled water
• 1/3 spoonful fine sea salt
• cloves, cinnamon, or ginger slices (optional)
• berries, mint and/or lemon for garnish
method
Scrub your beets clean. Use filtered or boiled tap water here as you don’t
want to kill the microbes on the surface of the beets.
salt Leaving the skin on, cut the root and stem from the beet, then chop into
water chunks.

Add beets, salt, any optional spices, and enough filtered water to submerge
beets beets by about one finger in a sanitized jar. Leave a bit of space between the
& surface of the water and the lid.
spices
Shake jar to combine, and store a cool spot, like a pantry or on top of your
refrigerator. Put a bowl or plate beneath the jar in case it bubbles over a bit.
catch
The next day, open the jar to release the gasses produced by the
plate fermentation process, then tighten again and return to its spot. Repeat for
the following 4 days, and taste test your kvass as you go!
72
ferment tip: If a white film forms on
your brine or beet’s surface, this is likely
not mold, but harmless Kahm yeast. Skim
this layer off and continue. If it’s any other
color or texture, this is mold. But removing
this layer and any affected vegetable can
save the batch.

Smell or taste the kvass. A sour scent


is normal, but a spoiled or rotten one is
not! This is very unlikely to happen, but
if so, throw away and take better care
to select fresh produce, to clean jars very
thoroughly, and to keep your ferment at
room temperature.

method (continued)
On day 5 to 7, your kvass should be ready. Look for a bubbly liquid,
and less of a salty flavor and more of that sweet earthy beet taste
we love so much.

You can leave it to ferment for longer, tasting each day if a stronger
flavor is desired.

Strain beets from kvass and transfer to the fridge, where it will keep
for at least a month.

(The beets are technically pickled, and are delicious as a crunchy


snack, salad topping, or roasted with other vegetables!)

Drink the kvass mixed with a little sparkling water or as-is, with
garnishes or plain!

73
Tangawizi Chai
by an anonymous kudu

Tea was first introduced to Kenya by way of India


in 1903, where it’s flourished in the rich volcanic
soils ever since. Today Kenya is the world’s largest
exporter of tea, second only to China. But as is
typical of countries recovering from imperial
occupation, Kenyans are still being exploited
for their labor. Though they supply Britain
with 40% of their black teas, workers are often
underpaid, underage, and abused. While a change
of consumption patterns is not a solution for these
systemic problems, purchasing organic fair trade
tea is the way to go. Tangawizi, Kiswahili for ginger,
goes so smoothly with this strong Kenyan milk tea.

origin: Kenya
ingredients spices (optional) yield: 4 mugs
• 2 cups or ½ liter milk or milk alternative* • 8 cloves, crushed
• 2 cups or ½ liter water* • 1 cinnamon stick
• thumb of ginger, finely grated or minced • 8 cardamom pods, crushed, plus more for serving
(skin on if organic, peeled if not)
• 3 spoons loose leaf, fair trade Kenyan black tea
• cane sugar, to taste

* The ratio of milk to water here can be played with


depending on how creamy you like your milk tea.

method
Bring water to a boil with ginger and optional spices. If you like your ginger to retain a strong kick, add later with the milk, or even
after sieving for the most powerful medicinal effect.

Once boiling, add tea and simmer briefly, or until the tea has fully turned the water to a rich dark color.

Add milk and simmer for a few more minutes, adding sugar to taste.

Sieve tea and serve with 2 or 3 crushed cardamom pods in each cup. Enjoy with maandazi (a sort of East African doughnut) or on its own.
If using a plant-
based milk, heat
it up beforehand,
as some brands
and homemade
types will curdle if
added directly to
heat from cooler
temperatures.

75
boba con horchata
by me, vetted and approved by Mexican and Taiwanese friends alike

Los Ángeles’s food culture would be nothing without


its Indigenous / Latinx and Asian communities. The
celebration of these two cultures can be seen city-wide
in combinations of Peruvian-Chinese arroz chaufa,
Filipino lumpia with carne asada fillings, and taco
trucks with kimchi quesadillas. The idea of drinking
agua frescas with tapioca pearls is nothing new, akin
to your usual order of mango green tea with boba
pearls. But horchata is not often on tea shop menus,
and this classic milky drink blends beautifully with
chewy homemade brown sugar boba.
origin: México & Taiwan
yield: 4 tall glasses
ingredients for the boba
• 400 grams or 2 cups jasmine rice • 140 g or 1 cup tapioca flour, plus more for working dough
• 1 liter or 4 cups filtered water • 60 g or 5 spoons dark brown sugar
• 500 ml or 2 cups milk or milk alternative • water, as needed
• 1 spoon vanilla extract
• 3-4 cinnamon sticks, whole
• dark brown sugar, to taste

method
First, prepare the horchata. Wash your rice and cinnamon sticks, then add to a blender with water.

Blend until fine, about 2 minutes. (If your blender cannot hold all the water, set aside half.)

Pour mixture into a container with the rest of your water, vanilla, and milk or milk alternative. Give it a good stir before chilling in
the refrigerator overnight. The next day, or at least ten hours later, sieve your rice milk mixture into a pitcher and add brown sugar
to taste. Store in the refrigerator.
77
method (continued)
While the horchata steeps, prepare your boba pearls. Dissolve your brown sugar on the lowest heat possible, as to
not evaporate too much water. Once dissolved, rapidly stir in half of your tapioca flour, then take off the heat and
stir in the rest. It should gather in a big glutinous ball.

Scrape out onto a clean, lightly (tapioca) floured surface. The dough will be sticky, but knead with flour-coated
hands until it becomes smooth. Depending on how much help you may have on hand, you’ll need to cover half of
your dough to prevent it from drying out. Do so in a covered bowl.

If you have someone around to help, divide the dough in half and roll into two long cylinders.

Cut these into boba pearl-sized squares, then roll the squares into spheres, making sure they have enough flour
on them to prevent sticking to one another.

Pack any boba you aren’t going to use immediately into a freezer-safe bag with as little air in it as possible.

To cook the pearls, add at least a 1:6 ratio of boba pearls to boiling water. Cook until the pearls are totally
translucent and chewy, about 20 minutes, then strain under cold running water.

To serve, immediately add a few spoonfuls of boba pearls to the bottom of a glass with ice. Pour horchata over
the pearls, garnish with a cinnamon stick, and enjoy! Store in the refrigerator.

78
79
Chicha Morada
by an anonymous Inca tern & their mama

The Andean highlands are legendary for


being the homeland of over 4,000 varieties
of potatoes, but Peru in particular also
boasts 55 types of corn, ranging in color
from sky blue, to blood red, to golden, to
morada — or purple. With deep religious
and social roots in the Incan empire, chicha
is a general term used to describe all kinds
of beloved and (mostly) corn-based drinks
across South America. From beers to
sweet fruity drinks such as the one of this
recipe, enjoying a cool glass of chicha is an
experience not to be missed.

origin: Peru
yield: 4 glasses
ingredients
• 5 ears of dried purple corn
• 1 pineapple, preferably organic
• 1 cinnamon stick method
• 4 litres or 1 gallon of water Scrub your pineapple really well (especially if not organic)
• 2 lemons, juiced before taking off the shell, coring it, and slicing the flesh into
• cane sugar, to taste big chunks. Don’t throw the shell out, we’ll use it in this recipe!

Pour water into a pot with the corn, pineapple shells, and
Purchase cinnamon, then heat until it reaches a rolling boil.

dried or Lower to a simmer and cook until the corn has given all of its
color to the water (45 mins - 1 hour).
frozen
at a South Add sugar to taste, and stir until dissolved.

American Once cooled, add lemon juice, and refrigerate. Serve chilled
with fresh pineapple pieces and ¡disfruta!
market!

80
81
SWEETS
Skyrterta
by two anonymous Icelandic horses

When one thinks of Iceland’s natural resources, earth-splitting volcanoes may come
to mind, or the billowing clouds of steam from blue-colored natural springs. But the
Norse would have never been able to settle the small and beautiful island of extremes
without their sheep. Skyr — the central ingredient in this cheesecake-like dessert —
is a protein-rich dairy product similar to traditional full-fat Greek yogurt. Though
it’s now rarely made with sheep’s milk, it remains today a staple in Icelandic eating.
With a history stretching back over a millennia to the very beginnings of the country
itself, everyone will enjoy getting to know skyr through this recipe.

ingredients
• 400 ml heavy cream, or 1 can coconut cream origin: Iceland
• equal amount of plain Icelandic skyr yield: 1 cake
or plant-based yogurt
• 5 spoonfuls powdered sugar
• 2 handfuls of blueberries, or any berry of your choice
• 1 spoonful vanilla extract

for the crust


• 14 graham cracker squares or 18 digestive biscuits
• 1 spoonful of light brown sugar method
• 2 sticks / 100 g of butter, or 10 spoonfuls coconut oil
• pinch of cinnamon Crush or blend crackers or biscuits until they reach the
• salt consistency of sand. Combine with melted butter or coconut
oil, brown sugar, cinnamon, and a pinch of salt.

Pack the crust firmly and evenly into the base of a parchment-
lined cake pan (a springform pan would be ideal here, but not
necessary) and chill in the freezer while you prepare the filling.

Whip coconut milk or cream with powdered sugar and vanilla.


Once stiffened, gently fold in the skyr and a handful of
blueberries. You can smash the blueberries beforehand for a
equal more even flavor.
amounts
Pour the filling into the crust bottomed pan, and refrigerate
84 until solid, about 3-4 hours.
85
Palaappazham panniyaaram / பலாப்பழப் பணியாரம்
by Meenalogini Jeyaraj via Amma Thavamani Nesarajah

There is nothing quite like palaappazham!


Weighing up to 100 pounds, jackfruit are
the largest tree fruit on earth, and come
in dozens of beautiful varieties. Mexican,
Caribbean, Asian, or Indian grocery stores
often sell it in more manageable slices
if you’re looking to buy lighter. But this
Tamil recipe is fantastic if by chance
you’ve bought more jackfruit than you
can eat in time, as it’s usually made with
a typically soft, gooey-ariled type called
koolan. But very ripe, or canned jackfruit origin: Sri Lanka
is a great substitute.
yield: 15 fritters approx

ingredients
method
• 1 can of jackfruit in syrup
(or ~15 ripe jackfruit arils, seeds removed) Combine all dry ingredients, then stir in coconut milk. The batter should be
• 120 g or 1 cup flour thick, about the consistency of a custard. If runny, add a bit more flour, and if
too thick add a little water at a time until it’s just right.
• 1 heaping spoonful sugar
• 1/4 spoonful baking powder If using canned jackfruit, be sure to pat the jackfruit pieces semi-dry of their
• 180 ml or ¾ cup coconut milk syrup before dipping to ensure the batter sticks, and to prevent any popping oil.
• pinch of salt
Heat the oil to fry the batter-coated jackfruit, about 3 fingers deep, and turn the
• water fritters every 30 seconds or so to make sure they fry evenly.
• oil for frying
When uniformly golden brown, take out and drain on paper towels.

Enjoy when cooled with a hot cup of tea.


kfruit
f r e sh jac
If usin
g nife
in d your k
and yo
u f sticky
n d t o the
bo u with
utterly some rubbing ill
residue
, owel w
d a p aper t f.
oil an it r ight of
tak e

86
87
Meskouta / ⵎⴻⵙⴽoⵓⵜⴰ
by Amanda Meadows via Mommy Rajae

If you’ve ever been lucky enough to enjoy an in-


season orange from the Southwest Asian or North
African regions, you will know why their citrus is so
treasured by local and international importers alike.
Different incarnations of a moist, zesty almond cake
can be found all over these areas, but when French
and Spanish colonizers moved in on Morocco in
the early 1900s, the meskouta was born. Butter
and wheat flour free, this cake uses the plentiful
moisture and flavor of whole oranges to carry it.
Traditionally made in the winter seasons when
citrus is plentiful, this Amazigh / Maghrebi version
is especially nice, with an option for a fragrant, origin: Morocco
intoxicating syrup to serve. yield: 1 cake

ingredients for the syrup (optional)


• 4 fresh oranges (preferably organic) • 175 ml or 3/4 cup sugar
1 set aside for zesting & syrup • 60 ml or 1/4 cup water
• 240 g or 2.5 cups almond flour • a few glugs of orange blossom water
• 250 g or 1 ¼ cup sugar • juice from ½ of an orange
• 5.5 g or ½ spoon of baking powder
• 6 large eggs
• pinch of salt
• butter or oil, for greasing

method
Preheat oven to 350 F / 175 C and generously grease a 25 cm / 10 in cake pan with the fat of your choice. Set aside.

Scrub the skins of your oranges clean, then boil three of the oranges in water until totally soft and splitting, about 1.5 hours. Drain
the water then cut each cooked orange in half, removing the seeds. Purée the oranges either with a blender or pound with a mortar
and pestle until smooth. Set aside to cool.

In a separate bowl, beat the 6 eggs until frothy. In another bowl, mix dry ingredients thoroughly, then combine with beaten eggs,
being careful not to overmix. Fold the orange puree into the eggs gently until just smoothed, then zest your remaining orange
directly into the batter. The batter will be quite thick!
method (continued)
Pour batter into the greased cake pan, then bake until cake doesn’t wiggle when
moved, or until a toothpick comes out clean when you pierce the center, about 40-50
minutes.

If making the orange blossom syrup, simply combine all ingredients in a saucepan
on low heat until sugar is dissolved. Continue to simmer until it reaches a syrupy
consistency, about 20 minutes.

Let the cake cool for about an hour, and serve with some Maghrebi mint tea!

89
Açaí na Tigela
by my extended Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu family
via BJJ grandfather Carlos Gracie
The star of this dish is the small, dark berry of the
açaí palm, native to the Amazon basin where people
indigenous to the area have used the palm since time
immemorial for its heart, wood, and berry. People
there often eat the berry in a savory fashion with
other staples such as fish and cassava, but most of
the west knows açaí (say it with me: ah-sai-EE !)
in its smoothie bowl form.

Popularized by legendary Brazilian Jiu Jitsu co-


creator Carlos Gracie and spread by surfers, now
people all across Brazil, Southern California, and
Hawai’i enjoy easy access to the fruit in this form.
Unfortunately açaí is not often harvested ethically,
and must come a long way to be exported outside of
South America. But fret not, as blueberries are an
excellent, more accessible substitute for many, and
rival açaí in their nutritional value.

origin: Northern Brazil


ingredients for serving
yield: 2 bowls
• four great handfuls (or packets) of frozen • slivered almonds, granola,
açaí pulp or blueberries coconut flakes
• juice, coconut water, or plant-based milk • spoonful of peanut, almond, or cashew butter
• guarana syrup, maple syrup, or honey • sliced banana, kiwi, fig, dates, berries, etc.
• hemp, flax, or chia seeds

method
Combine the bowl ingredients in a blender. Add just enough juice, coconut water, or plant-based milk to help the motor along. You
want a creamy consistency.

Serve in a tigela, or bowl, and top generously with nuts, granola, sliced fruits, or seeds. Enjoy immediately on a hot sunny day, or
after a crushing workout. Bom apetite!
91
POUND CAKE
by my mom Nisha Marie Brown and sister Rose via my grandmother Rose

Pound cake is a recipe of unclear origins that


seems to have taken off in Northern Europe some
three hundred years ago. It’s commonly known
there as a madeira cake, but was originally named
for containing only four ingredients all measured
out to a pound (about one half kilo!).

These days, pound cakes can be seen in all sorts


of iterations — some made with rum, others with
7UP soda — but always present at just about any
celebratory gathering of southern black folk,
always homemade, and very rarely with any strict
recipe. It’s possibly the most intuitive bake there origin: Southern US
can be, but we did our best to nail it down here. via Northern Europe
yield: 1 cake
ingredients method
• 500 g or 4 sticks of salted butter, softened Preheat oven to 160 C / 325 F.
• 400 g or 2 cups fine or powdered sugar
• 350 g or 3 cups cake flour Whip together butter and powdered sugar until light and airy, then add eggs one
at a time, beating and incorporating each one thoroughly before adding the next.
• 6 eggs
Add flour, mixing in only long enough for the batter to smooth.
• 1 spoon vanilla extract
Grease a 25 cm / 10 in bundt pan and bake until a toothpick comes out smooth,
about 45 minutes.

Once cooled, turn out onto a serving plate and dust lightly with powdered sugar.

Enjoy yourself, gift the cake to a loved one, or bring it to a cookout. You can do
no wrong!

92
93
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Thank you to the Silver Sprocket team for your Thank you to my patrons — many of you also dear friends
enthusiasm and support for this idea from the very and comrades — who have supported me throughout
start. Especially to my editor Ari for your sharp the process of me making this book and beyond: Amy
eyes, kindness, and care in endeavoring with me to Cooper, Andres Chang, Rosey Ann, Sullivan, Dri
turn the loosest ingredient lists into these intuitive Tattersfield, Charlotte, Cecil Romanov, Ale Avila,
recipes, to Avi for being so on top of each part of Charlie Light, Tiana No, Jesse Kerman, Alfha Tucker,
the process, to Carina for helping make this book Tremayne Jenkins, Kyle Jarrod, Hae-Joon Lee, Sarah
as pretty and legible as possible, and to Kyle for Kuo, Charles Marks, Sterling, Loren & Ev Davis, Zorya
getting the word out ! Thank you to the trees Dolgushkin, Spunjji, Shelley Low, August Guang, Angela
felled to become these pages, and the people at Llerena, Becca & Rob Parker, Anthony Chanza & Ty
the printer for your labor in making these books a Foreman, Samantha Schumann, Siobhan Blank, all my
physical reality. anonymous folks, as well as those who lifted me up with
their words, letters, and whatsapp voice messages. To all
Big love to all those who submitted a recipe, and all those who emotionally or spiritually resonated, and told
of your cooking ancestors, of blood or not: Camellia me that they too felt this book was needed.
Jahanshahi, Mélie Coutee, Mari Hagemeyer, Eva
Lia Pedriglieri, V Dyakonov, Darianealy Keo Butler, To my friends, who are everything to me, my family
Karen Blanch, Lorna, Rishi C., Sarah Levin, Sofia both blood and found, thank you. To my partner
Boukhobza, Stella Kamenova, Hailie Coutee, Lam and sous-chef Ori, and your limitless love, support,
Thuy Vo, Oddaro Johnson, Vân Hoàng, Chloe Pui criticism, enthusiasm, and appetite for everything I
Yeng Chia, Oliver Katz, Rachel Simanjuntak, Pau do. To my sister Rose, for giving me the confidence,
Pujadas, Cat Arévalo, Amanda Meadows, Maysam Al- guidance and strength to always do my best (and
Ani, Meenalogini Jeyaraj, and all of my anonymous with a plant-based option!). To my mother Nisha,
contributors. While I wanted to include every recipe for having me in the kitchen before I could even see
that was sent to me, I did my best to try to curate a above the counter, and sharing with me your open
list that represented as many regions, food cultures, mind and heart to all people. And of course to my
and food types as possible. (You wouldn’t believe grandmother Rose, bless her memory, for showing
how many fried doughs, soups, and cakes I got in me what it means to choose each ingredient with care,
proportion to everything else when asking for meals to talk to growers if you aren’t growing it yourself, to
with strong family memories!) So while many had to feel the process more than adhering to the directions,
be left out, best believe that I’m holding onto each to make mistakes, to try something new, to always
one to try myself, and will think of your story, of what honor the history, and to never cook — or do anything
it means to you. of importance — without love.
Written and illustrated by Mariah-Rose Marie

Recipe contributions by: Hailie Coutee, Camellia Jahanshahi, Rachel Simanjuntak, Maysam
Al-Ani, Lam Thuy Vo, Stella Kamenova, Rishi C, Ori Hamburg, Darianealy Keo Butler, Eva
Lia Pedriglieri, V Dyakonov, Meenalogini Jeyaraj, Amanda Meadows, Nisha Marie Brown,
Rose Marie Brown, and anonymous contributors.

Copyright © 2023 Mariah-Rose Marie.


All rights reserved.

First Printing, October 2023


Digital Edition

Published by: Silver Sprocket | 1018 Valencia St, San Francisco, CA 94110, USA

Avi Ehrlich, Publisher | Josh PM, General Manager | Ari Yarwood, Managing Editor
Carina Taylor, Production Designer | Kyle Daileda, Publicity | Simon Jane, Shop Goblin
Daniel Zhou, Shop Rat | Raul Higuera-Cortez, Big Head Bandit | Sarah Maloney, Shop Cat
Sol Cintron, “Head” of “HR” | Tori Bowler, Shop Cryptid

www.silversprocket.net
Mariah-Rose Marie
is a graphic novelist, story artist, illustrator
and writer whose work can be seen anywhere
from Netflix, FX, and HBO Max to The New
Yorker, Science for the People Magazine,
and The Nib. With empathy and humor, they
create works about wildlife, politics, queer
culture, history, and the intersections of
identity.

When not working on her upcoming graphic


novels or storyboarding for TV, she can be
found tending to urban gardens, cooking
something spicy, or fighting people for
sport. Mariah-Rose lives in Tovaangar, also
known as Los Ángeles.
Have you ever met someone who
never uses recipes, yet makes
incredible meals every time?
It seems to be a magic preserved only in the hands of grandmothers,
or any passionate provider. An ancient, special knowledge that
takes a lifetime to perfect. But that’s not always true. You can start
learning now, and you probably know far more than you think.

Inside this fully illustrated cookbook is an introduction to intuitive


food preparation ! Meaning less reliance on teaspoons, grams,
degrees, and exact cook times, and more on the way humans have
always cooked: by tasting, watching, smelling, listening, feeling,
and remembering. Follow along with home chef Mariah-Rose Marie
to learn how to measure with your hands, season with your senses,
balance flavors on the fly, remember ratios, and more—all with
minimal equipment and minimal spending.

You can practice your new knowledge with the twenty delicious
vegetarian recipes collected from family, friends, and contributors
throughout the globe. From Persian kashk-e bademjan and
Icelandic skyrterta to Mexican-Taiwanese horchata con boba, the
recipes range from traditional to transformed, reflecting the way
foods—like people—migrate, mix, adapt, and are remembered. This
book was created with international and financial accessibility
in mind, and the hope that readers of all backgrounds will find
appreciation for the myriad people and flavors of our shared world.

grab your trusty cast iron “This book is a field guide to the ethereal and
mystical parts of our cooking that give it soul. It
skillet, and get cooking! sings with the energy of intuition and tradition,
spice and spirit that are behind the power of our
ancestral pots and pans to make community and
legacy. This is something to cherish.”

-Michael W. Twitty,
culinary historian and James Beard
Award-winning author of The Cooking
Gene and Koshersoul

DIGITAL EDITION

silversprocket.net

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