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Table Tennis

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1.

1 History of Table Tennis

The history of table tennis (or ping-pong as it is also commonly known) is a long
and interesting sequence of events, which would require a book to do it justice. This
article provides a brief overview of the origins of the game, as well as what are generally
acknowledged as many of the important highlights of the game's development.

There is often conflicting information available regarding the early days of table tennis
and all differing opinions are presented here for completeness.

Early Origins of Table Tennis/Ping-Pong

 12th Century AD: The game of table tennis probably descended from the the
game of "Royal Tennis" (also known as Real Tennis or Court Tennis), which was
played in the medieval era.
 1880's: Some sources claim that the sport was once known as indoor tennis, and
was played in the early 1880's by British army officers stationed in India and
South Africa. These officers are supposed to have used cigar box lids as
paddles, rounded wine bottle corks as balls, and books for an improvised net.
 1880's: The game had become fashionable among the upper classes in
England.
 1887: According to the ITTF website, the first use of the name "Table Tennis"
appeared on a board and dice game made by J.H.Singer of New York.
 1890: The earliest existing evidence of a table tennis game is a set made by
David Foster, patented in England, which included table versions of Lawn
Tennis, Cricket and Football.
 1891: John Jacques of London introduce their "Gossima" game, which used
drum-type paddles, a 50mm web wrapped cork ball, and a 30cm high net.
 1890's: By this time, several patents with basic rules had been registered.
 1890's: Parker Brothers begin making an indoor tennis kit which included a
portable net, a small ball covered in netting, and paddles.
 1900: Englishman James Gibb is credited with bringing hollow celluloid balls
back to England from the USA, although some other sources claim they were
plastic balls. Previously most balls were solid rubber or cork, often covered in
material. Some sources also credit Gibb with inventing the name "ping pong",
which was supposed to have been derived from the sound of the ball bouncing
off the drum battledores (paddles), each of which had a different sound.
 1901: John Jacques register "Ping Pong" as a trade name in England. The
American rights to the name are sold to Parker Brothers.
 1901: On the 12th December 1901, "The Table Tennis Association" is formed in
England. Four days later, "The Ping Pong Association" is also formed in England.
 1901: Table tennis is first brought to China via western settlements.
 1902: Englishman E.C.Goode is credited with putting pebbled rubber on his
wooden blade, allowing him to put more spin on the ball. This is the forerunner of
the ordinary pimpled rubber racket, which will dominate table tennis until 1952.
 1903: On the 1st May 1903, "The Table Tennis Association" and "The Ping Pong
Association" amalgamate, forming "The United Table Tennis and Ping Pong
Association". This association will later revert its name to "The Table Tennis
Association", before becoming defunct in 1904.

1920's-1950's: Classic Hard Bat Era / Europe Dominates the Sport

 1920's: In the early 1920's the game began to revive in England and Europe.
 1922: "The Table Tennis Association" is reconstituted, with the name "English
Table Tennis Association" being adopted in 1927.
 1926: The International Table Tennis Federation is formed.
 1926-1931: Maria Mednyanszky of Hungary wins the Women's Singles event at
the World Championships five times in a row.
 1930-1935: Victor Barna of Hungary wins five of the six Men's Singles events at
the World Championships (and was runner up in 1931).
 1935: The American Ping Pong Association, US Amateur Table Tennis
Association, and National Table Tennis Association merge to form the US Table
Tennis Association (which was renamed USA Table Tennis in 1994).
 1936: Repainted tables (which made the playing surface very slow) and a high
net (6¾ inches high) combine to make attacking play very difficult at the World
Championships in Prague, Czechoslovakia. This results in the longest rally ever
in a World Championships taking place, lasting over two hours.
 1938: The ITTF lowers the net from 6¾ inches to 6 inches, and bans the
fingerspin serves which had been used with devasting effect by American
players.
 1940-1946: No World Championships held due to World War II.
 1950-1955: Angelica Rozeanu-Adelstein of Romania wins six Women's Singles
titles in a row at the World Championships. Since her last title win in 1955, every
World Champion in Women's Singles has been an Asian player.

1950's-1970's: Sponge Bat Era / Rise of Japan and China

 1952: Hiroji Satoh of Japan becomes notorious for his use of a wooden racket
covered in thick foam sponge rubber, which produces much more speed and
spin than conventional pimpled rubber rackets. He wins the 1952 World
Championships over Jozsef Koczian of Hungary, and begins a period of Asian
male domination in the sport which will last until Sweden rises to supremacy from
1989 into the early 1990's.
 1957: The World Championships changes to a biennial event (once every two
years), due to the logistics of hosting an event of such size, and difficulty in
finding suitable venues.
 1958: The first European Championships is conducted in Budapest, Hungary,
and sees the USSR's debut in international table tennis.
 1959-1960: The ITTF standardizes the thickness of ordinary pimpled rubber and
sponge rubber.
 1960's: In the early 1960's, the loop drive was invented and become popular
around the world.
 1960's: From around 1965 to 1971, China under the rule of Ma Tse-Tung
disappears from world table tennis events.
 1961-1965: Zhuang Zedong of China wins 3 Men's Singles titles in a row at the
World Championships, each time over compatriot Li Furong.
 1960's: In the early 1960's, Xhang Xi Lin of China uses a "Yin-Yan" bat with
normal rubber on one side, and long pimples on the other—the first recorded
instance of successful combination bat play.
 1971: China returns to International Competition at the 1971 World
Championships.
 1971: The US Table Tennis Team takes a "Ping-Pong Diplomacy" trip to China,
in a world first effort to use sport to establish and improve diplomatic relations.
 1971: Jean-Paul Weber of France uses the first anti-spin rubber in the World
Championships in Nagoya, Japan, and enjoys some success with its use.
 1971: The first Commonwealth Championships are held in Singapore.

1970's-2000's: The Age of Speed Glue & Technology

 1970's: Table tennis players discover that using bicycle tyre repair glue to put
rubber on a blade dramatically increases the speed and spin that can be
produced. This discovery is often credited to Dragutin Surbek of Yugoslavia, and
Tibor Klampar of Hungary. This discovery is called speed glue.
 1970's-1989: China is the dominant force in both men's and women's events on
the world scene, winning multiple events at all world championships.
 1980: John Hilton of England wins the European Championships using a
combination bat of normal rubber and antispin, twiddling the racket and playing
aggressively.
 1980: The first World Cup event is held in Hong Kong.
 1982: The initial World Veteran's Championships is conducted in Gothenburg,
Sweden.
 1980's: In 1985, the two color rule is adopted to reduce the effectiveness of
combination rackets.
 1988: Table Tennis becomes an Olympic sport, in Seoul, South Korea.
 1989-1993: Sweden breaks the Chinese stranglehold in Men's World
Championships, winning the 1989, 1991, and 1993 Teams Events, and
producing the 1989 and 1991 World Men's Champions (Jan-Ove Waldner and
Jorgen Persson respectively). China continues its dominance in female ranks.
 1995-present: China reasserts its control over the Mens Team and Mens
Singles events at the World Championships.
 1997: Jan-Ove Waldner wins the Mens Singles title at the World Championships
for the second time, this time without the loss of a single game!
 2000: A brief blip in the Chinese men's dominance occurs when the aging
Swedish trio of Jan-Ove Waldner, Jorgen Persson and Peter Karlsson combine
to steal the Mens Team title in a thrilling final.
 2000: The ITTF increases increases the ball diameter to 40mm.
 2001: The ITTF changes the scoring system, moving to 11 point games, and
using a best of 5 games or best of 7 games match.
 2002: Table Tennis becomes a Commonwealth Games Sport, at Manchester,
England.
 2003: Werner Schlager of Austria breaks the Chinese stranglehold on the Men's
Singles World Championship title, saving several match points along the way
against opponents in Wang Liqin and Kong Linghui. He meets Joo Se Hyuk of
South Korea in the final - Joo is the first defensive player to make the Mens
Singles final since the Eberhard Scholer of Germany in 1969 (Scholer also lost in
his final, to Japan's Shigeo Itoh).
 2000's: In the early 2000's, frictionless long pimples become popular among
many players, in an attempt to negate the the power and spin produced by
modern technology and speed glue.
 2006: The intended banning of frictionless long pips and speed glues with toxic
organic solvents is announced by the ITTF.
 2007: The ITTF withdraws its approval of all table tennis glues, following a
health incident involving a speed glue user in Japan.
 2008: The use of speed glues with illegal VOCs is banned for all ITTF junior
competitions as of January 1. Machines that test for illegal VOCs are introduced
to check for rules infractions.

2.1 Table Tennis Equipment


Four pieces of equipment are needed to play table tennis: the table, the net, the
ball, and the racket. The racket is really two pieces of equipment the racket itself and its
covering. In addition, players must choose proper playing attire plus any of the many
table tennis accessories available table tennis glue, head and wrist bands, net
measurer, racket holder and playing bag, and weighted rackets.

2.1.2. THE TABLE


The table is 9 feet by 5 feet, with the surface 30 inches from the floor. It is usually
a dark, nonreflecting green, with a 3/4-inch white line running along the edge. There is
also a 1/4-inch line running down the middle that is only used in doubles. (It doesn't
invalidate the table for singles play.) The way the ball bounces when it hits the table
must meet certain standards. It should have a uniform bounce whether the ball is hitting
near the edge or in the middle. It should bounce roughly the same on all legal tables.
(When dropped from a heightof12inches, the ball should bounce between 8-3/4 and 9-
3/4 inches.) You won't be able to develop proper timing on a table that gives variable
bounces. Ifat all possible, use tables that are either USITA or ITTF approved. Tables
range from beat-up ones with gaping holes in the middle and bounces that defy gravity
to thousand dollar ones that are scientifically designed. Try to use ones that are
somewhere in between. You'll need room to play. A legal playing court is at least 20 by
40 feet, but you may have to compromise on this depending on the size of your facility.
Beginners don't need nearly as much room as more advanced players. If at all possible,
the ceiling should be at least 12 feet or higher, but this isn't necessary for beginners.
(You can't lob with a low ceiling, but lobbing is a rather advanced shot.) The background
should be dark enough so that the ball (usually white) can be seen clearly. Make sure
there are no glares. Table tennis is a vision oriented sport, and a white background or a
glare from a window can ruin the game. The floor should not be slippery, for obvious
reasons. Most to players consider a wood floor (or something similar) best, because
extensive play on a hard surface can hurt your feet and legs.

2.1.3. THE NET


The net is 6 inches high and stretches across the middle of the table. It should
extend 6 inches on each side of the table-this is to keep players from hitting the ball
around the net, something some top players can do. If the net isn't the correct height
you won't get a feel for proper ball trajectory. If you play with a net that is too low, you'll
get in the habit of hitting the ball too low, and when you go to a regulation net, you'll hit
into the net. If you play on a net that is too high, you'll hit the ball too high when you go
to a regulation net. Nothing is more irritating than a net that keeps falling over or that
sags in the middle. Make sure the net being used is securely fastened and relatively
taut.
2.1.4. THE BALL
Balls are usually white, but some are orange. They vary in price from cheap 10-
cent balls that break on contact with a racket to three-star quality balls that cost nearly a
dollar each. A poorly made ball tends to be lopsided, with soft spots, so that it not only
breaks easily, it doesn't bounce the same way each time. You should probably go for
the expensive three-stars. They bounce better, and in the long run they're cheaper
because they last much longer. Balls are usually marked either one, two, or three-star.
Get the three-stars. If there are no stars, avoid them.
2.1.5. THE RACKET
Choosing a racket consists of two parts. First you must choose the blade itself (a
racket without the covering). Then you must choose the covering for the hitting surface.
You'll want to pick the correct racket and covering for your particular style of play. A
blade is made of wood, although a small amount of carbon fiber or similar fibrous
material is permitted. Most tournament players use plain wood but some use expensive
(over $100) carbon fiber blades that give a more even bounce on different parts of the
racket-a larger "sweet spot." Many players complain that carbon rackets have less
"touch," which is why they are still less popular than plain wood. When selecting a
racket, you must consider your grip, playing style, price, and what feels comfortable. If
you use the pen hold grip (see Step1, "Grip and Racket Control") then make sure to get
a pen hold racket. Some beginners think it's "macho" or cool to use a fast blade. This is
a mistake. A medium speed blade will enable you to control the ball and develop your
shots far more effectively. As you advance, you may want a faster blade if you develop
an attacking style. If you develop a more defensive style, you may want a slower blade.
The speed of most table tennis blades is usually marked on the package, ranging from
"slow" to "very fast." Ultimately, the deciding factor when selecting a blade (other than
price) is the "feel." If It feels right, it's probably the best blade for you.

• Pips-out sponge: Here the pips point outward. This type of surface is ideal for
smashing but is not as good for spinning or all around play. You can't spin the ball as
well with this surface, but you have more control against spin. • Hard rubber: Hard
rubber is a sheet of pimpled rubber, pips outward, without any sponge under it. Before
sponge rackets were invented inthe1950s, this was the most popular surface. A player
with a sponge racket can keep the ball in play at a faster pace than with a hard rubber
racket and can attack fa: more effectively. A player using hard rubber is at a severe
disadvantage against an opponent with sponge, so I strongly recommend that you use a
sponge of some sort.
2.1.6. THE RACKET COVERING
The racket covering is even more important than the racket it self. There are five
basic types: inverted, pips-out, hard rubber, long pips, and anti spin. (Sandpaper and
plain wood are also sometimes used, but they are illegal surface sand should not be
used. They were made illegal because hey damage the ball.) All racket coverings
include a sheet of" pimpled" rubber, a sheet of rubber covered with conical "pips."
These pips help grab the ball and put more spin on it. Make sure to use some sort of
sponge rubber covering (see Figure 1, a-c). A sponge racket is covered with a thin layer
of sponge, with a pimpled rubber surface. There are basically three types of surfaces,
two of which have sponge.
• Inverted sponge: The sheet of pimpled rubber is inverted. The pips face inward,
toward the racket. This leaves a smooth surface. On some types of inverted sponge, the
surface is sticky, which helps when spinning the ball but causes a loss of control. Sticky
inverted is the best surface for putting spin on the ball, while less sticky inverted is best
for all-around play. I recommend that beginners get a less sticky inverted surface.

Two other types of racket surfaces are occasionally used: "anti spin rubber" and
"long pips. "These surfaces are different in their playing characteristics than other
surfaces and are for special styles of play, mostly defensive. They will be covered in
detail in Step 13, "Playing Styles and Rallying Tactics." I don't recommend these
surfaces for beginners. As you learn more about the game, you may wish to try them
out.

2.1.7. SPEED GLUES


Many top players now use some sort of speed glue, which makes the racket
surface faster and "spinnier." The glue must be put on before each playing session
because the effect wears off after a few hours. The glue adds a slingshot effect when
hitting the ball, shooting the ball out. The effect only lasts until the glue hardens, which
takes from 3 to 10 hours, depending on the type and the amount used. Speed glue is
especially useful for players who attack with topspin. The speed glue could more
correctly be called "spin glue" because it really adds more spin than speed. Players who
try speed glue usually have trouble controlling it at first, but they quickly adjust. Although
speed glue does add more power to your game, it reduces your control.
Figure 1 (a) Inverted sponge: a sheet of pimpled rubber is inverted. The pips face
downward, toward the racket. (b) Pips-out sponge: the pips point outward.
(c) Hard rubber: a sheet of pimpled rubber, pips outward, without any sponge
underneath the rubber. It is not recommended until players reach at least an
intermediate level.
2.1.8. Steps to Success
CARE OF YOUR EQUIPMENT Table tennis equipment needs very little
maintenance. However, if you use in verted sponge, you'll need to clean the racket
surface. There are special rubber cleaners on the market that clean extremely well, but
constant use of them will wear down the rubber. It's better to wash an inverted sponge
with plain water and a towel. Use rubber cleaner mostly in tournaments. All table tennis
sponge wears out. The tiny bubbles in the sponge pop and eventually the sponge goes
dead and should be replaced. The higher the level of play, the more often the sponge
should be changed. Inverted sponge surfaces also wear out, usually before the sponge
does. If you like to spin the ball, you shouldn't use an old surface that is no longer
grippy. Sponge surfaces come in squares that have to be glued to the racket and cut.
There are special table tennis glues for this, but you can also use rubber cement. The
only disadvantage of rubber cement is that it is slightly thicker than table tennis glue and
will create lumps under the surface if not put on properly. You will need to know how to
put on a fresh sheet of sponge. Here's how:
1. Apply a thin layer of glue to both the racket and sponge, and let it dry. (Bubbles may
form under the sponge if you don't let it dry before continuing.) 2. Carefully put the
sponge on the racket, starting at one end and rolling it over the surface. 3. Check the
surface for bubbles. If there are any, squeeze them flat with either a roller of some sort
or your fingers.
4. Puta piece of paper on the surface and then stack some books on top. Let it sit for 5
minutes or so. 5. Remove the books and cut away the excess sponge with scissors or
razor blade Play!
2.1.9. SHOES AND CLOTHING
You should wear rubber -soled athletic shoes with athletic socks. Don't use
running shoes; they're not designed for the sudden side to side movements needed in
table tennis and can lead to sprained ankles. There are specially made table tennis
shoes, but they aren't really necessary until you reach the higher levels. Volleyball
shoes are ideal for table tennis. Solid-colored, nonwhite shorts and shirts finish out your
table tennis outfits, with warm-ups optional. (White outfits are illegal because an
opponent can lose the ball against the white background. Likewise, orange clothing is
illegal if an orange ball is used, in which case white clothes are legal.)
2.1.10. OTHER ACCESSORIES There are a number of other items that you may
choose to use. Here's a shortlist:
• Head and Wristbands • Net measurer • Racket holder • Spare racket • Playing bag •
Weighted racket, for shadow practice (or simply leave the cover on your regular racket)

1.1. BASIC MOVEMENT SKILLS IN TABLE TENNIS

3.1.2. Kinds of Grips:


There are different kinds of grips in Table Tennis. These are the shakehand grip,
the penhold grip (Chinise, Japanese, and Korean), and the unorthodox grip such as the
Seemillar grip.

3.1.2.1. Shakehand Grip


most players use the shakehand grip. When you want to use this grip,
grasp the racket as if you are shaking hands with the handle, with your
forefinger across the bottom of one side of the blade which is the backhand
side. The other three fingers grip the handle and the thumb rests along the
lower part of the other side of the blade which is the forehand side.
With the shakehand grip, there is freedom of the wrist. The wrist can be
kept loose to increase the spin on a particular short.
3.1.2.2. Penhold Grip (Chinise)
This grip is similar to holding a pen between the thumb and the forefinger.
The racket head points downward, with the other three fingers curled and
centered at the back of the racket. Pointing upward, the handle is held between
the thumb and the forefingers.
Because the same side of the blade has been utilized, it cramps the
backhand and a forceful shot is imposible. It is not good for older players
because it requires exceptional footwork.

3.1.2.2.1. Japanese and Korean Penhold Grip


The only difference of this grip from the Chinise penhold grip
is that you do not hold the blade straight up and down but
directly out to the side. It allows for a powerful, crisp forehand,
an easier backhand than the Chinise grip, and the three fingers
at the back of the racket should be fully extended.

3.1.2.2.2. Seemiller Grip


This grip is a combination of shakehand and penhold grips,
the only differences is that the thumb and foreinger grip the
sides of the blade. It allows great wrist action on the
forehand resulting in a powerful forehand shot. It utilizes only
one side of the blade so the wrist action is limited.

4.1. the strokes


4.1.2. the Lob
The lob is exclusively a defensive shot. It is performed
several feet away from the table against a smash or a hard driven lob. This stroke is
often used when players are caught out of position or off balance. It is an attempt to get
back into play. It is not strategy to defeat an opponent. This stroke will always put a
player at a disadvantage. It is used only in desperate situations.
1. Forehand lob – position your self at least eight feet away from the table. Crouch
with your right leg slightly in front of the left. With your paddle lower than the ball,
strike the ball with a grazing motion approximately at waist level. Follow through
with the arm fully extended over the top of the head.
2. Backhand lob – crouch behind the ball as it comes and graze it about waist
level. Try to land your lobs deep on the table with ample topspin so that your
opponent has less table with which to work.

Forehand lob

backhand lob

4.1.3. The Block


The block is a defensive shot made against top spin shots or smashes. Players
block to keep the ball in play or to set up a point-winning shot. Blocking requires good
balance.
In blocking against a loop, block from the top of or above the ball while you are
on your toes and press down with your back arm at contact.
In blocking against a smash, open your blade and cushion the ball back to your
opponent’s end by relaxing your grip.
4.1.4. Drop shot
This stroke is done against underspin balls that bounce close to your side of the
net. To execute this stroke, hit the ball quickly off the bounce. Strike the ball from
underneath using a little wrist action and no follow through. Keep your shot very close to
the net on your opponent’s side of the table.

4.1.5. The Push


It is defensive stroke used by players who would like to frustrate the opponent.
Through pushing, a player can create different degress of underspin to different parts of
the table.
For a forehand push, atart slightly away from the table and position yourself in a
crouch stance with the right leg trailing the left. With the racket blade open and the bat
arm bent and held about head high, cut down toward the ball, and follow through by
extending the procedures: arm fully downward.
In pushing from the backhand side, do the following
1. With the left leg trailing the right, assume a crouch stance.
2. Cut down and beneath the ball.
3. Follow through fully by extending the arm downward.
5.1 Serve
A strong fast serve controls the flow of the game. Your opponent will be caught
off-balance and it will give you a good chance to score. A good serve varies in spin,
speed, and placement of the ball. This will give the receiver problems in guessing what
kind of spin will be served and where the ball will be placed.
Tips in serving:
1. For long serves, begin about one to two inches from your end line and land
deep into the opponent’s court.
2. Avoid placing the ball in the middle portion of your opponent’s court (shaded
area).

5.2 Service Return


Returning the service is more difficult than srving. You must think in advance
what moves you will do to counter your opponent’s serve. Always assume the ready
position, the crouch. Normally, most of the serve have a lower trajectory so you need to
stay low.
Game Strategies for Table Tennis
There are a number of strategies used to win a game of table tennis.
1. Hit to weak side – one of most basic strategies in the game is to hit the
ball to your opponent’s weak side, usually the left side some will only
serve to the weak side. In “gentlemen’s” games the service is alternated
between the left and right sides.

2. Put a spin on the ball – A topspin is used most often because it curve the
ball downward to the table and allows more power on the hit.
Backspins can confuse an opponent, but the ball often bounces up
and allows the player to “kill” the return.
Sidespin can cause the ball to go off the opponent’s paddle in
unexpected directions.
3. Set up your opponent – getting the opponent to run is a good way to wear
him or her down, as well as to set up for a shot that he or she cannot
return. There are numerous other strategies concerning how the ball is hit
and how you get an advantage on your opponent.
4. Have focus – focus on returning the ball safely the ball to the opponent’s
court.
5.3. Developmental Activities
5.3.1. Crosscourt Counter Drill
Using backhand or forehand, practice hitting crosscourt from the end of
the table. Forehand (FH) to Forehand Drill

5.3.2. Crosscourt Push Drill


This will best develop the push stroke. You may practice from backhand to
forehand or forehand to backhand. This drill is easy for beginners.
Forehand (FH) to Forehand Drill

5.3.3. loop to block drill – Play as a looper and have a friend play as a blocker. Use backhand and
forehand strokes. Have variety in speed and spin of the loops. The timing variation can be catching the ball
on the rise, at the top, and on the descent.
5.3.4. Good Service – Place the ball the open palm of the free hand which must be at rest and above
the level of the playing surface. Throw the ball nearly vertically upwards so that it is visible to the umpire at
all times and as it leaves the palm. Strike as the ball passes so that it touches the server’s court first and
then passes directly over the net, in order to land in the receiver’s court. The palm of the free hand while it
is in contact with the ball in service should be open. Make sure that your fingers are together when you are
serving.
5.3.4. Good Return – the receiver must hit the ball immediately after it bounces once on his or her court.
Use the racket to return the ball to the opponent’s court. The ball should pass over or around the net
assembly. There is no height limit to the path of the ball. A good return can move over the net at any point
or round the post. It may touch the top of the net or side post bur it should go over the net for the play to
continue. In returning the ball, a player should not touch the net to his/her racket; otherwise, a point will be
awarded to his/her opponent.
6.1. RULES and REGULATIONS in TABLE TENNIS
Basic rules and regulations are necessary for sport appreciation and enjoyment.
After learning the basic movements and skills in table tennis, you are now ready to learn
its rules and regulations. As an aspiring table tennis player, consider not only the skills
in playing that are important but also the rules and regulations of any game that bring
good performance and success.
6.1.2 Basic Rules of Table Tennis
* warm up exercise – these are necessary before engaging in any physical
activity.
* Equipment – the paddle should have a red and a black side. The ball should
be either orange or white and 40 millimeters in diameter. The table should be 2.74
meters long, 1.525 meters wide, and 0.76 meters high.
 Practice -

1. Players are entitled to do the warm up exercise and practice up to two


minutes before start of the game.
2. The referee may allow players to practice on any table during an
emergency suspension of play.
3. Players shall be given the opportunity to check and familiarize themselves
with any equipment which they will use.
 The Order of Serving, Receiving, or Ends
The winner in a lot may choose to serve or to receive first or to start at a
particular end.
When one player or pair has chosen to serve or to receive first or to start at a
particular end, the other player or pair shall have the other choice.
After two scored services have been made, the receiving player or pair shal
serve the ball.
In doubles, the pair having the right to serve first will choose who between them
will do so; in the first game of a match, the receiving pair will decide who will receive
first.
The player who serve first in a game shall receive first in the next game. The
players or pairs switch ends in the next game.
 Interval
Any player is entitled to an interval of one minute between successive games
of an individual match.
 Time – out
1. The request for a time out may be made by the player or pair or by the
designated coach.
2. The request for a time-out may be made only between rallies in a game. It
shall be made by making a “T” sign with the hands.
3. On receiving a valid request for a time-out, the umpire shall suspend the
play and hold up a white card. The white card shall then be placed on the
court of the player or pair making the request.
4. The marker shall be removed and play resumes as soon as the player or
pair making the request is ready to continue ar at the end of one minute,
whichever comes first.
 Legal Service
The ball must rest on an open palm of the hand. Then it must be tossed up at
least 16 centimeters and struck so the ball first bounces on the server’s side and
then the opponent’s side.
 Let
The rally be a let based on any one of the following conditions:
1. The served ball in passing over the net touches it, provide the service is
otherwise good or the ball is obstructed by the receiver or partner.
2. The service is delivered when the receiving player or pair is not ready,
provided that neither the receiver nor his or her partner attempts to strike
the ball.
3. The failure to make a good service or a good return or otherwise to
comply with the laws is due to a disturbance outside the control of the
player.
4. Play is interrupted by the umpire or assistant umpire.

 Suspension of Play
If the player is temporarily incapacitated by an accident, the referee
may allow suspension of play. The suspension should not be more than
10 minutes.
 Flow of the Match
Each player serve two successive points and then serve are switched.
However, if a score of 10-10 is reached in any game, each server serve only one
point and then the right to serve is switched. After each game, the plyers which
sides of the table. In the game (i.e, 5th game), the players switch sides again after
either player reaches five points.
 Scoring
A game is played until a player reaches 11 points first. The player
must have a two-point advantage over the opponent to be declared the
winner. To win a match, a player must win 3 out of 5 games.
The player earns a point when the opponent commits a fault while the ball
is in play; except when it is a “Let,” Rally point system is used in the game

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