Zagreb in Your Pocket

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Zagreb
Winter 2018/2019
N°94 - complimentary copy

zagreb.inyourpocket.com
Croatian Fairytales
Magic, Mystery & Morals
Joys of Winter
When Vacation Turns into a Fairytale
Contents
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Nightlife 31
Are you ready to party?
Foreword 4
A zesty editorial to unfold
Sightseeing 37
Discover what we‘ve uncovered
Top 10 Winter Events 6
Essential guide to the Winter events
Joys of Winter 49
When vacation turns into a fairytale
What’s On 8
Shopping 50
A pick ‘n’ list to brighten your stay
Priceless places and buys
Croatian Fairytales 14
Magic, Mystery & Morals
Arrival & Getting Around 59
SOS! Have no fear, ZIYP is here
Restaurants 19
We give you the bread ‘n’ butter of where to eat Zagreb Basics 62
Keep’n it real
Local Flavour 27
Winter is coming and so is the food Maps
Street Register 63
Coffee & Cakes 29 City Centre Map 64-65
“How’s that sweet tooth?” City Map 66
Esplanade Zagreb Hotel Archives
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Winter 2018/2019 3

Foreword
Winter is well and truly here and even though the days
are shorter and the nights both longer and colder, there
is plenty of room for optimism and cheer and we will
give you a whole load of events and reasons to beg that
receptionist back at the hotel/hostel to prolong your stay
for another day or week!
But the real season by far is Advent, the lead up to Publisher
Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb
Christmas where Zagrebians come out in force and ISSN 1333-2732
devour mulled wine, grilled gourmet sausages, hot round
doughnuts, and many other culinary delights. And since Company Office & Accounts
Višnja Arambašić
Advent is in full swing, we have a resounding wrap up of Zagreb In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia
what to do and see. Of course, the rest of the winter in Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28
the city is a buzz and you can expect a lot of interesting croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com
exhibitions, concerts and festivals. City museums are a Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.
Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja, published 4 times per
fave, even with kids. year
The winter months never have to be boring because the Editorial
city is full of events. Already in January, following the Editor Višnja Arambašić
holidays, you can look forward to the Night of Museums. Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jona-
than Bousfield, Lee Murphy, John William Bills
In February, the ZagrebDox - International Documentary Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac
Film Festival awaits you, and the Zagreb Festival of Lights Assistant Editor Blanka Valić
is coming up in March and much much more. Design Ivana Mihoković
Photography Zagreb In Your Pocket team unless otherwise
So, let the bells jingle, let the food tingle, and we would stated
love for you get out and mingle whilst in ZG! Cover © Illustration by Zdenko Bašić, The Goldsmith’s Treasure
children book
Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević
Cover story Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić
zagreb@inyourpocket.com
Copyright notice
For the first time, The Goldsmith’s Treasure, Croatian clas- Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps
sic by August Šenoa has been adapted for a younger copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this pub-
generation of readers. This luxurious edition with en- lication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts
chanting illustrations by the popular and multi-award for the purpose of review, without written permission from the
publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket
winning artist Zdenko Bašić becomes a magical setting is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4,
for this tragic love story between Dora and Pavle. Besides Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Zagreb (Croatia) In
getting acquainted with the story that is told to children Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might
change after publication. Please check with the event organis-
in an acceptable way, readers will also discover many ers if in doubt.
other details about Zagreb and its surroundings.
About IYP
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Top 10 Winter Events
11.11 - 19.05 » 1918 - A Turning Point for
Croatia
Exactly 100 years ago to the day of this exhibition opening,
WW1 ended. This was a crucial period in Croatian history
as it terminated relations with the Austro-Hungarian Mon-
archy and joined a new state, the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats
and Slovenes. History buffs get to explore and learn of the
entire political, social and economic changes through to
mid-1919; from life on the battlefield and the aftermath of
the war through to becoming a member of a new king-
dom. It’s a historian’s paradise!QB‑1, Croatian History
Museum, Matoševa 9, www.hismus.hr.
18.12 - 10.02 » Nikola Mašić - Noble Realist

Welcome to a retrospective to one of Croatia’s finest mod-
ern landscape painters and the first Croatian animalistic
painter. Mašić’s works were the result of his direct pres-
ence in nature and his trips to the Posavina region as well
as study visits to southern Italy. The artist’s most famous
genre composition known as ‘beautified realism,’ will also
be presented. QC‑3, Modern Gallery, Andrije Hebranga
1, www.moderna-galerija.hr.
10.01 - 21.04 » Josef and Anni Albers – Voy-

age inside a Blind Experience
Do you think it’s possible to experience abstract artworks
without using your eyes? Can visual art be experienced by
people who are partially sighted or blind? The answer is
YES as the Albers, pioneers of 20th century modernism,
showed time and time again with works including tactile
models, braille texts, and playful art encounters led by
touch. Prepare for an amazing experience of the senses
for all ages! QJ‑4, Contemporary Art Museum Gallery,
Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr.
25.01 » Night of the Museums - Museums -
13.12 21:00 » The Strange

Members of the Bambi Molesters team up with
the frontman from The Walkabouts and now
have a majestic album called ‘Echo Chamber’.
Combined, they are ‘The Strange’, their second
studio release in 14 years and it’s got a concoc-
tion of influences from surf, indie and garage rock,
to Baroque pop and alter-country. The Strange is
one of those bands whose live acts are always im-
pressive and memorable with Chris Eckman lead-
ing the way!QE‑3, Culture Factory, Šubićeva 2,
70 - 90kn, www.tvornicakulture.com.
The Strange, Photo by Mare Milin
Festival of Lights Zagreb 2018, Photo by M. Mihaljević,

Zagreb Tourist Board Archives
01.03 - 10.03 » Festival of
Top 10 Winter Events
Lights Zagreb Innovations and Digital Future
Let Zagreb light up your life a little Yet another exciting Night of the Museums awaits us and
with this spring festival of illumina- this time dives into the world of modern technology in
tion and beauty. See how artists use museums. The application of new and innovative digital
the city as a painting canvas as its technologies, platforms, apps, and more have opened up
buildings, monuments, promenades the possibilities of experiencing museums and their work-
and squares shine at night with high spaces. As such, curators and art historians are finding new
tech lights, lasers and graphic ef- ways to exhibit and personalise the viewers experience
fects that create a true spectacle of nowadays. Qwww.hrmud.hr.
splashing colours, images and figures.
Spring will shimmer in 2019!QVari‑ 17.02 11:00, 25.02 19:30, 27.02 19:30 » Giuseppe
ous city centre locations, www. Verdi - The Troubadour (Il Trovatore)
festivalsvjetlazagreb.hr. Il Trovatore is an opera in four acts by the famous Italian
composer Giuseppe Verdi and based on the play El tro-
vador (1836) by Antonio García Gutiérrez. Ever since its
premiere in 1853, it has become one of the world’s most
frequently performed operas. The driving force is romantic
passionate love, mortal jealousy and an obsessive desire
for vengeance with music that is as equally impressive,
with its beautiful energy and spectacular vocal tracks that
convey resounding emotions. QB‑3, Croatian National
Theatre, Trg Republike Hrvatske 15, www.hnk.hr.
24.02 - 03.03 » ZagrebDox – International

Documentary Film Festival
Craving for new, valiant, bold and off mainstream docu-
mentaries, this festival specialises in the best recent na-
tional and international docs.The competition program is
divided into both an international and regional category
featuring documentary films on top of retrospectives,
workshops, pitching forums and panel discussions. What
more do you need?QC‑1, Kaptol Boutique Cinema, Nova
Ves 17 (Kaptol Centre), www.zagrebdox.net.
28.02 19:30 » Master Cycle of the Croatian

Radio and Television Symphonic Orches-
tra, Pierre-André Valade & Filip Merčep
A concert to wow the Zagreb audience featuring the tal-
ented young Croatian musician Filip Merčep on percussion
who once performed at the finals of the Eurovision Song
Contest for Young Musicians. He is joined on stage by the
French master conductor Pierre-André Valade and the
Croatian Radio and Television Symphonic Orchestra. The
program opens with Gymnopédiesby Erik Satieasorches-
trated by Claude Debussy, followed by Franz Schubert’s
9th Symphony. QI-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg
Stjepana Radića 4, 40 - 60kn, www.lisinski.hr.
23.03 » ANDREW LLOYD WEBBER - Jesus

Christ Superstar
We’re staging a rock opera based on Jesus Christ Super-
star, a famous contemporary musical work which after its
Broadway debut in 1971, has been seen by over five million
viewers. The story is loosely based on the last seven days of
Jesus Christ’s life with a main focus on the relationship and
interpersonal struggle between Jesus and Judas Iscariot.
The musical includes ironic allusions to modern society,
political connotations and purposeful anachronisms. QC‑1,
Komedija City Theatre, Kaptol 9, www.komedija.hr.

What’s On
EVENTS IN DECEMBER 18.10 -
The Dark Shift @ Typhlological Museum
CLASSICAL CONCERTS 14.12
Saturday at Lisinski - Krassimira Stoy‑ 07.11.
22
anova @ Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall 2018 - Magister Giotto @ Archaeological
15.01. Museum Gallery
Zagreb Philharmonic Orchestra - 2019
30 Philharmonic Ball @ Vatroslav Lisinski
Concert Hall 08.11.
2018 - Nikola Reiser - Retrospective @
OPERA 03.02. Klovićevi dvori Gallery
12, 14 La Bohème @ Croatian National Theatre 2019
21 Il Volo @ Arena Zagreb 06.12.
ROCK & POP CONCERTS 2018 -
Vladimir Becić @ Klovićevi dvori Gallery
10.03.
13 The Strange @ Tvornica Kulture 2019
14, 15 Elemental @ Tvornica Kulture 11.12.
Vlatko Stefanovski Trio @ Tvornica 2018 Nikola Mašić (1852 – 1902) - Retro‑
21
Kulture - 10.2. spective @ Modern Gallery
EXHIBITIONS 2019
03.10. 19.11.
Vlaho Bukovac and Alexandre Cabanel: Meštrović and Prodanović: The Artist
2018 - 2018 -
A Historical Meeting Of Student And and His @ Meštrović Atelier - Ivan
06.01. 27.01.
Teacher @ Art Pavilion in Zagreb Meštrović Museums
2019 2019
09.10. SPECIAL EVENTS
Reaching for the Stars with Elan - Elan
2018 - Piaf! The Show @ Vatroslav Lisinski
and its Predecessors @ Nikola Tesla 15
31.01. Concert Hall
Technical Museum
2019

What’s On
EVENTS IN JANUARY 08.11.

CLASSICAL CONCERTS 2018 - Nikola Reiser - Retrospective @
03.02. Klovićevi dvori Gallery
Saturday at Lisinski - Academy of 2019
11 St.Martin in the Fields @ Vatroslav
Lisinski Concert Hall 06.12.
2018 -
Saturday at Lisinski - Vincent Dubois @ Vladimir Becić @ Klovićevi dvori Gallery
19 10.03.
Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall 2019
OPERA 11.12.
Jakov Gotovac - Ero the Joker @ Croa- 2018 Nikola Mašić (1852 – 1902) - Retro‑
10
tian National Theatre - 10.2. spective @ Modern Gallery
21, 23, Richard Wagner - The Flying Dutchman 2019
26, 29 @ Croatian National Theatre 19.11.
Meštrović and Prodanović: The Artist
EXHIBITIONS 2018 -
and His @ Meštrović Atelier - Ivan
27.01.
03.10. Meštrović Museums
Vlaho Bukovac and Alexandre Cabanel: 2019
2018 -
A Historical Meeting Of Student And 29. 1.
06.01. Kurjak Collection - From the cycle “Pri‑
Teacher @ Art Pavilion in Zagreb 2019
2019 vate collections in a public institution”
- 17. 3.
09.10. @ Art Pavilion in Zagreb
Reaching for the Stars with Elan - Elan 2019
2018 -
and its Predecessors @ Nikola Tesla SPORT
31.01.
Technical Museum
2019 Audi FIS Ski World Cup “Snow Queen
5, 6
07.11. Trophy” 2019 @ Sljeme
2018 - Magister Giotto @ Archaeological The 35th Vladimir Mažuranić Memorial
19, 20
15.01. Museum Gallery @ Dom sportova
2019

What’s On
OPERA
Ivan pl. Zajc - Nikola Šubić Zrinjski @
6
Croatian National Theatre
17, 22, Giuseppe Verdi - The Troubadour (Il
25, 27 trovatore) @ Croatian National Theatre
BALLET & DANCE
5, 9, 11, Bedřich Smetana, Patrice Bart -
13, 26, Elisabeth of Austria - Sissi @ Croatian
28 National Theatre
Radio & Juliet @ Vatroslav Lisinski
16
Concert Hall
ROCK & POP CONCERTS
10 Tom Odell @ Tvornica Kulture
13 Cloud Nothings @ Tvornica Kulture
EXHIBITIONS
08.11.
2018 - Nikola Reiser - Retrospective @
03.02. Klovićevi dvori Gallery
2019
06.12.
2018 -
10.03.
2019
11.12.
2018 Nikola Mašić (1852 – 1902) - Retro‑
- 10.2. spective @ Modern Gallery
2019
29. 1.
Kurjak Collection - From the cycle “Pri‑
2019
vate collections in a public institution”
- 17. 3.
@ Art Pavilion in Zagreb
2019
SPECIAL EVENTS
Lisinski Dances Under Masks Psiho‑
23 modo Pop @ Vatroslav Lisinski Concert
Sissi, Croatian National Theatre Archives Hall
FILM
EVENTS IN FEBRUARY 01.01 -
31.12
Subtitled Tuesdays @ Europa Cinema
CLASSICAL CONCERTS 19.02 - 4th KinoKino - International Film Festi‑
Saturday at Lisinski - Munich Radio 24.02 val for Children @ Europa Cinema
Orchestra, Bavarian Radio Chorus, Ivan JAZZ & BLUES
2
Repušić, conductor @ Vatroslav Lisinski George Cables / Victor Lewis Trio @ Jazz
Concert Hall 26.02
& Cabaret club Kontesa
Young at Lisinski - Osijek Piano Trio @ SPORT
4
Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall
20.02 -
Saturday at Lisinski - Ivo Pogorelić @ 28th Zagreb Boat Show @ Zagreb Fair
9 24.02
Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall
Young at Lisinski - Ilijana Korać-Teklić,
18 Lana Bradić @ Vatroslav Lisinski Concert
Hall
www.inyourpocket.com

What’s On
THE LAST
HRVATSKO
NARODNO
KAZALIŠTE
YEARS
VARAŽDIN
14, 15, 16, 17 & 18 JANUARY 2019

MUSICAL
at Komedija Theatre WRITTEN AND COMPOSED BY
TICKETS:
Kaptol 9
Jason Robert Brown
Open Mon - Sat 10:00 - 14:00, DIRECTOR Lea Anastazija Fleger
18:00 - 20:00
CONDUCTOR Stjepan Vuger
Oktogon, Ilica 5 ACTORS Hana Hegedušić - won the 2018 Croatian
Open Mon - Fri 08:00 - 17:30 , Actor Award for best female role in a musical
Sat 08:00 - 13:00
Igor Barberić / Ivan Čuić
IZVORNU PRODUKCIJU ZA IZVEDBU
U NEW YORKU PRIPREMILI IZVORNU PRODUKCIJU PRIPREMILO KAZALIŠTE PREDSTAVLJENO U ARANŽMANU KAZALIŠTA
Arielle Tepper i Marty Bell Northlight Theatre iz Chicaga, Illinois MUSIC THEATRE INTERNATIONAL (EUROPE)
SPONZOR
PREDSTAVE
What’s On
EVENTS IN MARCH
CLASSICAL CONCERTS
Young at Lisinski - Tomislav
4 Damjanović @ Vatroslav Lisinski Concert
Hall
Young at Lisinski - Tea Kulaš @ St Mark’s
11
Church
Sturday at Lisinski - Orchestra of the
16 Age of Enlightenment @ Vatroslav
Lisinski Concert Hall
Young at Lisinski - Katarina Kutnar, Ivan
18
Galić @ Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall
BALLET & DANCE
Pierre Choderlos de Laclos – Giorgio
21 Madia: Dangerous Liaisons @ Croatian
National Theatre
ROCK & POP CONCERTS
Zoran Predin @ Vatroslav Lisinski Concert
7
Hall
EXHIBITIONS
06.12.
2018 -
The Discrete Charm of Yugoslavia, Alternative posters of Yugoslavia 10.03.
cinematography, posters/Boris Stapić, 29.11 - 20.12 at Laval Nugent 2019
Salon, Vodnikova 4 29. 1.
Kurjak Collection - From the cycle “Pri‑
2019
Christmas MarketS - 17. 3.
vate collections in a public institution”
@ Art Pavilion in Zagreb
2019
17.12 monday - 23.12 SUNDAY SPECIAL EVENTS
Artomat - THE UNCONVENTIONAL ART Walking With Dinosaurs @ Arena
FAIR 8, 10
Zagreb
A charming traditional pre-Christmas fair with unique
and quirky gifts up for grabs! Visitors can participate 15.03 -
Place2Go 2019 @ Arena Zagreb
in all sorts of free workshops, enjoy interactive perfor- 17.03
mances.QD‑3, HDLU, Trg žrtava fašizma 16, www. FILM
artomatsajam.wordpress.com. 01.01 -
Subtitled Tuesdays @ Europa Cinema
31.12
17.12 monday - 23.12 sunday
Cash and Carry (PLATI I NOSI) MARCH
6 th Venice in Zagreb @ Europa Cinema
For those who have an eye for art we invite you to the 2019
Meštrović Pavilion where the future Meštrović’s get JAZZ & BLUES
the opportunity to present and sell their finest original George Cables / Victor Lewis Trio @ Jazz
works to the public at this fair. This initiative, realised 26.02
& Cabaret club Kontesa
by the Croatian Postal Bank, is a stepping stone for
young university students in the field. What a chance SPORT
to meet, greet and support the future of Croatian art 04.03 - 2019 World Junior Figure Skating
just before Christmas.QD‑3, Bačva Gallery, HDLU, Trg 10.03 Championships @ Dom sportova
žrtava fašizma 16, www.hpb.hr.
What’s going on?

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Illustration by Zdenko Bašić, The Goldsmith’s Treasure children book
Croatian Fairytales
Magic, Mystery & Morals — The
Wonderful World of Croatian
Fairytales
Croatian Fairytales
There are few artistic forms more influential than the fair-
ytale. Passed down from generation to generation, these
magical stories have been imbuing children with a solid
set of ethics and values for centuries, encouraging honesty,
bravery, and not trusting wolves wearing red coats. Wheth-
er ‘The Boy Who Cried Wolf’ taught you the importance of
telling the truth or ‘Three Little Pigs’ inspired you to build
strong foundations in order to stop a wolf blowing your life
down, these moral tales have been building societies for
thousands and thousands of years.
In many ways, Croatia is a fairytale country in itself. The

state is full of locations that look like they came straight out
of a magical world. The verdant majesty of Plitvice Lakes
National Park could host a whole society of fairies, trolls
and other mythical beasts, while the elegant wonder of
Trakošćan Castle absolutely must be home to a princess
waiting to be rescued by a prince (or vice-versa, of course).
Zlatni Rat is the beach of your dreams, and the nation’s old
towns are tailor made for storytelling and romance. It is no
wonder that Dubrovnik was chosen as a setting for Game
of Thrones, itself a work of fiction that takes plenty of influ-
ence from the world of fairytales.
Mythology and legend in Croatian literature goes back a

very long way, but most of Croatia’s modern fairytales come
from the mind and pen of one of the nation’s most beloved
writers. It could be said that Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić was
destined for greatness from the get-go, as she was born
into one of the most prestigious families in the nation. Her
grandfather was Ivan Mažuranić, the first Croatian ban to
come from outside the nobility, and much of her family was
involved in the Croatian National Revival in the mid 19th
century. The pressure on Ivana to succeed was huge, and
the girl from Ogulin was more than ready for the task at
hand.
Ivana began writing at a young age, making the most of a

fine education that took her to Zagreb via Karlovac, but her
first real literary break came in 1913 when she published
‘The Brave Adventures of Hlapić’, the story of an appren-
tice who accidentally stumbles upon the lost daughter of
his master, leading to a change in the poor boy’s luck. This
book brought Ivana to the attention of the nation, but the
best was yet to come.
It was 1916’s ‘Croatian Tales of Long Ago’ that really made

Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić a star. Initially a collection of six short
stories (with two more added to the 1926 edition), the
book saw Brlić-Mažuranić take old Slavic mythology and
twist it into new shapes, creating a whole new set of fair-
ytales for modern Croatia. Her work garnered comparisons
with Hans Christian Andersen and JRR Tolkien, and the sto-
ries were quickly translated into a variety of languages all
across the globe. It is these stories that make up most of
modern Croatia’s moral fiction.
The opening story of the book is How Quest Sought the

Truth, the tale of three brothers who go exploring the for-
est in search of honey. Emboldened by their quest, the trio
called on the Sun God to show them all the good things in

Croatian Fairytales
What is your favourite Ivana Brlić Mažuranić and an original item
from the legacy of Mažuranić, a knife for
childhood fairytale? opening letters that Ivana made for her son
Ivo, Croatian History Museum Archives
Ivana Kovačić: Snow Queen, Hans Christian Andersen.
Ksandro Kovačić: The Wolf and the seven little goats,

by the Brothers Grimm.
Roman Simić: I liked Russian fairy-tales, the collection

by A. Afanasjev (illustrations by I. Bilibina), among them
is Baba Jaga (Witch Jaga). I also favoured Šuma Stri-
borova (Stribor Forest) by Ivana Brlić Mažuranić.
Sara Ursić: Thumbelina by the Brothers Grimm
Sanja Bachrach Krištofić: I listened and read fairy-

tales by Hoffman, the Grimm brothers and Anderson.
These include: The Little Match Girl, The Fir-Tree and the
Ice Maiden.
It is a real Christmas story that starts off with a fir-tree

that lives in the woods, it is later cut, and then shines
in full light, only to be reduced to tears, burned and
destroyed. And even ‘The little Match Girl’ and ‘The
Ice-Maiden’ end tragically.
These days there has been of lots of interpretation of

these fairy tales. They point to the need for empathy, the world, and the deity was more than happy to oblige,
the preservation of nature and all that others should only for the King of the Forest Goblins to intervene on their
do for Christmas and beyond. way home and cause them an awful fright.
Sonja Zulbeari: Cinderella ... I even have a recording Still in shock from the encounter with the goblin, the boys
on cassette of how I retell the story at the age of four. had largely forgotten the wonders they had seen. Their
grandfather asked what they had seen, and the elder two
Andrija Pećarić: What I remember most from my brothers were influenced by the goblins to tell tale tales to
childhood is a fairy-tale that my grandmother told me the family patriarch. The goblins made themselves at home
whilst on the island of Vis which she called ‘The Story with the two older boys, but the youngest was unwilling to
of Vretencić’; it is a about a tiny ingenious boy who, lie to his grandfather. This young boy (called Quest, hence
through his wisdom, manages to overcome seemingly the title) said that he could not remember what he saw,
impossible obstacles. In addition, he would regularly and he stuck to the truth as the goblins continued to cor-
turn his ‘flaw’ (his size) to his advantage. rupt his brothers.
Did my grandmother find inspiration from Thumbelina, Quest eventually left in search of the truth, but his attempts
a character from a story by the Grimm Brothers and she were thwarted at every turn by the pesky goblins. His broth-
then created her own version? Or, was it the Grimm ers continue to grow greedy in his stead, and eventually
Brothers who used that story as their own template, I conspire to kill the grandfather by setting his cabin alight.
am not sure. Quest is eventually visited by the Sun God, who merely tells
him that the truth was to be found back at home with his
Either way, with this question in mind, you have actu- grandfather, sending poor Quest into an almighty funk that
ally prompted me to think about publishing the Story leads to him falling into a spring and drowning.
of Vretencić.
All of this leads to the other brothers being freed from the
clutches of their goblins, just in time to save the grandfa-
Who knows, maybe an editor and illustrator will find it
ther that they tried to kill. The brothers are forgiven, but the
interesting enough for it to be published one day.
old man gives his own life to lead his youngest grandson
into the great castle. The brothers (Careful and Bluster, if
you’re after names) grow up to become great men, and the
King of the Forest Goblins is finally defeated.

Croatian Fairytales
Fisherman Plunk tells the tale of a fisherman who is never
satisfied, a man who is given all he ever wanted but does
not appreciate it, and loses it. It is up to his put-upon wife
to save the day, and the family eventually find a way to be
happy with the normality of their lives, embracing simple
domestic happiness. Then there is Reygoch, the story of a
fairy and a giant who manage to settle the squabbling of
two neighbouring villages, allowing them to live together
in peace.
Bridekins is arguably the most complex tale of the collec-

tion. The story revolves around the eponymous character,
the daughter of a miller who grinds wheat for free for a old
woman. The woman has the ability to turn into animals
whenever she desires, and she promises to help Bridekins
whenever she can. They come across a princess who has
lost her keys, the reward for which is the princess’s hand in
marriage. A warden finds the keys but he loves Bridekins,
and the old woman helps the lovebirds escape the clutches
of the princess and the army.
These are just four of the stories contained within Brlić-

Mažuranić’s wonderful collection, a buffet of magical fic-
tion full of morals, values, lessons and more. Ivana encour-
ages the reader to appreciate the simple things in life, to
stay true to the common world and to resist the tempta-
tions of evil in whatever form they might manifest, ideas
that frequently come up in fairytales all across the world.
The stories of Croatian Tales from Long Ago have plenty in
common with each other, not least the consistent theme
of ordinary people becoming heroic through noble acts
that could easily be construed as being simple good be-
haviour.
Fairytales have an important role to play in the develop-

ment of all human beings. It is these fantastic pieces of
fiction that help encourage a sense of right and wrong, a
preference for good over evil, a desire to be the best that
we can be and not to take shortcuts in order to get there.
Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić was the most important individual
when it came to encouraging these ideas in the young
people of Croatia, and her name will forever be etched into
the national consciousness because of it.
It is thus apt that her hometown of Ogulin is now home to

an interactive centre that allows the visitor to engage with
her incredible tales. Ivana’s House of Fairytales (Ivanina Kuća
Bajke) is located near to the 18th century Hotel Frankopan,
and it is an absolute must for anyone visiting Croatia in
search of creative inspiration, not to mention those look-
ing for the true spirit of the nation. The museum houses
a permanent exhibition along with a library, and plenty of
workshops are held there throughout the year.
The spirit of Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić and her fairytales is well

and truly alive in the hearts and minds of Croatians old and
young, from those growing up in Yugoslavia all the way to
those finding their way in the 21st century. You’re never too
old to learn a new lesson, after all.

Croatian Fairytales
ZIYP: As children, we all read fairy-tales by Andersen

and the Grimm Brothers. Are those also your favour-
ite childhood stores? Which of the Croatian fairy-tales
did you grow up with?
Zdenko: Yes, they are. I enjoyed the stories and illustra-
tions in Andersen's and the Grimm Brothers’ fairy tales, but
again my favourite Croatian stories were those connected
to Pesiglavci and Nevidinčići and yet they could not be
found in books. They were told verbally during hot summer
nights, outdoors under old walnut trees, or during winter
by a fire whilst watching the fog descend.
ZIYP: What types of stories and authors would you like

to work on as an illustrator? What inspires you most
and motivates you to work?
Zdenko: In that sense,I do not have any specific wish be-
cause I do not function as a classical illustrator. I approach
topics that interest me in my own individual way and I tell
my own story with it, the story I am obsessed with. So, in
Illustration by Zdenko Bašić, The Goldsmith’s that sense, I am less bothered of whether I will be making
Treasure children book an illustration, an animation or a movie. It then depends on
that particular story. And in that case, I myself am its author.
The Magical World of
ZIYP: A significant part of your creativity belongs to
Zdenko Bašić the world of animated film. What do you deem most
ZIYP: Zdenko, as an illustrator, animator and author important to present to viewers?
you have received numerous national and interna- Zdenko: The story itself! And sometimes its best via
tional awards for your work. Can you introduce your- pictures,other times through music or movement, costume
self to our readers? Who is Zdenko Bašić in short? or scenes that carry a storyline; then at times it is the text
Zdenko: What I can personally say is that I have been lost itself. What I always look for is the atmosphere and feel in
in this world as well as everyone else who claims they are expressing it. This is where I individually find and contem-
not, but I have chosen to professionally deal with stories plate this inner world that I then recount to the viewer.
and fairy-tales and at the same time find answers and di-
rections for my own path within them. As for the rest, it is ZIYP: Are you preparing a new project? What are you
all written in my biography. working on as we speak? Which Croatian fairy-tale
would you recommend to our foreign guests to take
ZIYP: In our guide, we have prepared a brief presenta- back home as part of experiencing our culture?
tion on Croatian fairytales. Can you describe how your Zdenko: Currently, I have just completed the picture book
fairy-tale stories The Northwest Wind and The Moon Zlatarovo Zlato (The Goldsmith's Gold) in collaboration
Shadow have been written, in which you have inter- with Tanja Komfort. It is based on one of Šenoa’s classical
preted elements of Croatian tradition in an original templates. Soon enough, we are preparing a Christmas
and entirely new way? exhibition of illustrations from picture books which will be
Zdenko: All these stories had found their way to me held at the Klovićevi dvori Gallery. This is certainly some-
through my grandmother, with whom I had grown up with. thing that anyone visiting Zagreb could find interesting
In any case, they are not just stories that belong to Croatian and can experience a certain kind of Zagreb story.
tradition because they were in a sense, real for those peo- In addition to all that and what really brings me joy, is what
ple. A world that spoke of the relationship between man I’m working on at the Turopolje Museum. We are prepar-
and nature, ultimately the relationship between man and ing Perun Božić (Perun Christmas) – a magical Advent of
what is hidden and unexplainable in nature, but also of forgotten stories and folk tales combining exhibitions,
life. What is magical in them is that they speak in the same workshops and stories that revolve around a costumed set
way to a child as to an adult because they deal with what design that will depict the world of Christmas; that being a
is outside of our common mind and ego, and this is what traditional Christmas, but taken from stories and legends
intrigued me. The experiences of life and our ancestors are that have become almost forgotten in this contemporary
stored in them, the roots of our blessings, but also the curs- world of buying and selling. So I'm looking forward to pre-
es which determine the subconscious of our present time, paring all of this for Christmas, and I truly believe that all the
as well as the future. That is why these stories are some- ‘little children’ will enjoy it, as well as those who still know
times very scary for people and they want to forget them. how to be ‘little’.

Restaurants
For the month of December, the majority of restaurants
have extended opening hours, in order to accommodate
the festive period.
Croatian
Didov san
Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend Didova tava,
a traditional veal and vegetables dish prepared in pan.
The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked
bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine se-
lection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva
28.QC‑1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/
(+385-) 091 484 20 61, www.konoba-didovsan.com.
Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (45 - 130kn).
APGSLW
Korčula
Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery as a
racquetball, which is evidently how momma’s been doing it
for the last millennium or so. If you want to understand the
meaning of Dalmatia and you don’t want to have to go far to
do it, this is your place.QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 17, tel. (+385-1)
487 21 59, www.restoran-korcula.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
Closed Sun. (80 - 160kn). APGBJW Barrique - Wine & More
Barrique Wine Bar is one of Zagreb’s more
Stari fijaker 900 recent additions, having only opened dur-
A beer hall and a restaurant, this double agent is a fa- ing the hot dusty summer that the capital is
vourite among locals and tourists alike. Located on the well known for. And what better way to deal
picturesque street Mesnička, which heads towards Up- with the summer heat than with any one of
per Town, Stari fijaker is popular for its beans, its low-key the 40-something Croatian wine labels that
atmosphere and its cuisine from the northern Croatian Barrique has available? The food menu is de-
region of Zagorje. A great choice of beers, both domestic signed to accompany the wine list, to help
and international, is available in what is apparently one of bring out the flavours within. Crostinis, cheese
Zagreb’s oldest beer halls.QB‑2, Mesnička 6, tel. (+385- plates, cold meats, olives, all of which pair
1) 483 38 29/(+385-1) 483 12 36, www.starifijaker.hr. wonderfully with the wines on offer.
Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (45 - 130kn). Of course, if it’s the winter then you’ll be need-
AP G XW ing something more toasty, and here you’ll
find kuhano vino, mulled wine, white, red,
Tip-Top and rosé… It’s not just wines either, with an
This place looks utterly missable from outside. But we extensive selection of gins and whiskeys and
heard say that the food is excellent. The menu really is these too work brilliantly when heated just
something special. It’s one of the few places in Zagreb right! The speciality hot drink this winter is the
offering absolutely traditional Dalmatian cuisine at prices Aperol Spritz Winter Hot Edition.
you can afford. Pick fresh sardines, shark or – an unusual ex- Thursdays you have the opportunity to meet
ample of fusion cooking – octopus goulash. Be aware that with some of Croatia’s more notable wine-
the interior hasn’t changed since about 1968 – but in our makers, who will provide some potable sam-
view, that’s part of its simple charm.QB‑2, Gundulićeva ples and talk you through the notes and other
18, tel. (+385-1) 483 03 49, www.gostionica-tiptop.hr. aspects of the wines. These evenings are ideal
Open 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (55 - 130kn). AP for those who might like to have more than a
GW glass, but who aren’t entirely sure of what it
is they’d like to try...QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 18, tel.
Trnjanka (+385-) 091 551 84 40. Open 08:00 - 02:00.
The lamb is famous and authentic as can be. Be prepared
APJW
to spend as much time hunting for the meat amongst
the ligament and gristle as you do actually eating. Once it
has been found it is undeniably tasty. The decor is forget-
table.QD‑4, Trnjanska cesta 31, tel. (+385-1) 611 96 86/
(+385-) 099 611 96 86, www.restoran-trnjanka.hr. Open Read more reviews online:
10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (55 - 95kn). APG zagreb.inyourpocket.com
BLW

Restaurants
Vallis aurea
You’ll find big things cooking within this tiny, humble en-
closure, named after a famous vineyard in Kutjevo, Slavo-
nia. Not surprisingly then, many people come for the great
wines on offer. The affordable Slavonian fare and a daily
changing menu keep you on your toes. A wide variety of
beef, fish and vegetarian dishes.QB‑2, Tomićeva 4, tel.
(+385-1) 483 13 05, www.vallis-aurea.com. Open 10:30 -
22:30. Closed Sun. (36 - 90kn). APGBW
Modern European
Agava
Pleasantly furnished in rattan and wood, this trattoria of-
fers Mediterranean as well as Croatian traditional dishes
with a twist, pasta, fresh salmon and tuna, plate salads
Le Bistro Archives and a great wine list. Huge windows give you a chance
to enjoy people-watching on Zagreb’s busiest pedestrian
street.QC‑2, Tkalčićeva 39, tel. (+385-1) 482 98 26, www.
restaurant-agava.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (77 - 299kn).
AGBJW
Apetit City
Reliable in their reverence for the culinary experience, the
wait staff enhance an ambiance which makes their delec-
table seafood, beef and lamb dishes all the tastier. Exqui-
site deserts are complimented with recommendations
from their extensive wine collection. Whether in its own
right or following a meal, a visit to the elegant wine bar
also promises novices and connoisseurs alike an unforget-
table evening.QB‑2, Obrtnički prolaz 7, tel. (+385-1) 481
10 77, www.apetit.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 -
17:00. (80 - 160kn). APGBJW
Carpaccio
Satisfy your desire for the finest of Italian cuisine with this
robust menu offered in the heart of the city center. From
carpacci to dolci, each meal is delectable and comple-
mented from a near endless selection of wines. While
retaining an atmosphere of top-class dining, the freshly
renovated bistro-style interior playfully invites guests to
indulge and enjoy.QC‑2, Teslina 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 23
31, www.ristorantecarpaccio.hr. Open 12:00 - 22:30.
Closed Sun. (75 - 200kn). APGBJW
Dubravkin put
You’d be forgiven for not knowing there was a restaurant
here, but Dubravkin Put, situated at the start of the path of
the same name, is home to Priska Thuring, renowned Cro-
atian-Swiss chef. Traditional Croatian menu available with
modern twist. All reports share a common theme, in that
you must try at least one dessert. Huge wine selection.
Ensure you book ahead as seating is limited.QB‑1, Du‑
bravkin put 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 49 75, www.dubravkin-
put.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (90 - 210kn).
APGBLJW
Bento box, Time Restaurant & Bar Archives www.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants
Le Bistro
A cute glass box attached to the northwestern side of the SYMBOL key
Esplanade hotel, Le Bistro has for years enjoyed a unique
reputation as one of the best places in Zagreb for a classy P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
business lunch. Repositioned with new flair by head chef
Ana Grgić, it’s now more popular than ever. Long-time T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
Bistro stalwarts like Wiener Schnitzel and local cult dish B Outside seating L Guarded parking
Štrukli (delicious doughy parcels stuffed with salty white
cheese) are still on the menu, but there’s a lot of new, S Take away 6 Pet-friendly
adventurous and seasonally-themed dishes to choose
from; the risottos in particular come highly recommend- W Wifi J Old town location
ed.QC‑4, Mihanovićeva 1 (Esplanade Zagreb Hotel),
tel. (+385-1) 456 66 11, www.lebistro.hr. Open 12:00 -
23:00. (120 - 210kn). APGTBSW
Noel
A warm, cosy and welcoming venue, Noel sits neatly on
a corner, hidden among the maze of small streets just
north of Home of HDLU. To try and list the kind of dishes
available here would take far too much time and space,
but then the restaurant knows this all too well and offers
diners the option of 4, 6, and 9 course tasting menus so
that you can sample as much as possible. You can also
book a special table where you’ll get more time with
Goran Kočiš, Noel’s award winning head chef.QE‑2, Duk‑
ljaninova 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 42 97, www.noel.hr. Open
12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (150-200kn). AP GT
SJW K
Time Restaurant & Bar

Standing on a quiet corner just off the main square Time
is one of the classiest drinking spots in the centre and
also boasts an Asian-inspired fusion restaurant that is
currently growing in reputation and popularity. Fashion-
ably dark from the outside it’s actually rather suave and
svelte inside, with low-key lighting and colourfully back- Ana Grgić, Chef, Esplanade Zagreb Hotel, Le Bistro Archives
illuminated rows of spirit bottles ranged above a gleam-
ing bar. Particular stand-outs include Time’s additive-free to embarking on a culinary tour of the country, with trout
fresh juices and lemonades, a big range of gins, Croatian from the Gacka River, štrukli from the Zagorje, Dalmatian
rakijas from the Aura stable, and a fine cocktail menu. The pašticada stew – and of course Zagrebački odrezak, the
restaurant menu runs from delectable sushi to rib-eye ubiquitous local schnitzel stuffed with ham and cheese.
steaks and well-spiced curries. With winter new wine list Outdoor seating in the courtyard is very popular in spring
and Gin Tasting Thursdays are presented. Reservations and summer – you may need to reserve. QC‑2, Nikole
are advisable for the restaurant; and the bar can be dif- Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/(+385-1) 481 13 41,
ficult to get into at weekends unless you’ve reserved a www.vinodol-zg.hr. Open 11:30 - 23:30. (70 - 160kn).
table. QC‑2, Petrinjska 7, tel. (+385-1) 333 36 60, www. APGBJ6W
timerestaurant.hr. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (90 -
250kn). APGXTBJWK Zinfandel’s
If you’re in search of somewhere special to eat out, then
Vinodol this restaurant, nestled inside Zagreb’s Esplanade Hotel
A long-standing favourite with locals who want a reliable should be near the top of your list. Such beautiful décor
city-centre restaurant that’s good for business lunches and remarkably quiet despite the hotel being adjacent
and quick bites as well as slap-up evenings out and family to the city’s main train line. Here you can be assured of
celebrations, Vinodol is one of those unavoidable Zagreb excellent food and staff all too willing to offer advice as
culinary landmarks that never lets its reputation slip. Given to what to order. The restaurant also plays host to many
its big kitchen and many years of experience, Vinodol can conferences and wedding receptions over the year.QC‑4,
churn out just about anything in the Croatian gastronomic Mihanovićeva 1 (Esplanade Zagreb Hotel), tel. (+385-1)
repertoire, from grilled fish to roast lamb and pretty much 456 66 44, www.zinfandels.hr. Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sun
everything in between. Just looking at the menu is akin 06:30 - 23:00. (155 - 410kn). APGBW

Restaurants
Meet the meat any opportunity to pay a visit, while there are seats free.
QB‑1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 17, www.papas.
American Steak & Grill House
hr. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 23:30, Sun 12:30 -
Steaks, be they New York, Porterhouse, t-bone, you name
22:00. (37 - 54kn). APGXBJW
it, they’ve got it! At this restaurant, which specialises in
American cuisine, barbecue chefs trained specifically
Plješivička klet
for American barbecue cuisine will prepare distinctive
All the meat products are made from their home-reared
American steaks on special grill plates according to spe-
piggies, including delicious loooong curly sausages,
cial recipes. Along with classic American dishes based on
blood sausages and ham hocks. Rustic in atmosphere,
meat, you can choose between a wide range of starters
you’ll have a full tummy and a big smile on your face
and sides in typically American style, such as baked po-
when you leave, and your meal won’t cost you an arm
tatoes, corn and fried onions, as well as many other deli-
and a leg. Near Jarun.QG‑4, Staglišće 23, tel. (+385-1)
cious, typical dishes like shrimp or lobster, which always
369 50 88, www.pljesivicka-klet.hr. Open 12:00 - 22:00,
lend richness to the flavours. You just have to try their lat-
Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. (45 - 90kn). AP G
est offer, hot wings with potato strings and red wine, all
BLW
for just 55kn.QC‑2, Ljudevita Gaja 1 (Hotel Dubrovnik),
tel. (+385-1) 481 86 13, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Open
Pri Zvoncu
12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 327kn). APGXBW
Has forged a reputation and a legion of fans for fantastic
food and great value. Rustic in style, Pri Zvoncu has a su-
Kod Dede grill
per little shady garden in the peaceful neighbourhood of
Carnivores take note, Kod dede (“Grandad’s place”) is a
Vrbik, just round the corner from the British and German
popular grill for local favourites ćevapčići and pljeska-
embassies. Although they mainly serve inland Croatian
vica (meat patties), steaks and mixed grills. Hop on tram
cuisine, they do fish specialities on Fridays, and cook beef
17 from the main square heading west, skip out at Prečko
and lamb ispod peke – a traditional Dalmatian cast iron
and prepare for the start of a long love affair with deli-
bell heaped with glowing ash. The excellent wine list
cious, juicy meat.QF‑4, Prečko 5c, tel. (+385-1) 381 75
includes home-made white wine on tap. Make the trip
37, www.koddede.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:30. (38 - 131kn).
south of the railway line – you won’t regret it.QI‑4, XII
PGBLW
Vrbik 1, tel. (+385-1 ) 619 84 73, www.prizvoncu.com.
Open 11:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (50 - 200kn). AP
Papa’s
GB W
This American styled burger joint, not far from the heart
of Zagreb, certainly looks the part. Music, check, decor,
Tvornica Pljeskavica Kosta
check, all the beautiful people, check... The food is priced
Writing reviews can sometimes be problematic, as you try
well, and with word spreading fast you’d be well to take
and single out the very best aspects to showcase. With
TPK it’s simple. Everything is good. You’ll need to book
your table in advance, but that’s to be expected. TPK is a
Good Food meat-eater’s paradise, and this reviewer’s favourite is the
‘train’, where they bring out different dishes one after an-
If you’re looking for a variety of freshly made meals other, with differing levels of spiciness.QSavska 107/1, tel.
made from healthy ingredients and local produce, (+385-1) 619 96 07, www.tvornica-pljeskavica-kosta.hr.
then come hence forth! The Good Food chain offers Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
a wide selection of breakfast meals and smoothies to (35 - 90kn). PGBW
something heartier, such as a burgers, tortilla wraps
and sandwiches. Try your hand at making a craft
salad with the wide selection of healthy toppings and Wine & Bites
variety of greens. All recipes are built around simple Barrique - Wine & More
ingredients like fruits, vegetables and local proteins. Sitting on the corner of Tkalčićeva and Skalinska, it’s likely
The menu is also vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free that you’ll hear Barrique Wine Bar before you see it, with
friendly. You can find their eateries at three different easy listening and smooth jazz echoing out onto the thor-
locations –Teslina Street 7, Pothodnik in Importanne oughfare throughout the day and night. Here you can
Center, and at Palmotićeva Street 2. The latter offers a find a wide selection of Croatian wines, and the food to
Royal Breakfast that serves two, so why not start your complement that selection. With a drinks menu that is
day in noble style.QD‑2, Palmotićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) ever-expanding and adapting to the season, you’re always
481 13 02, www.goodfood.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00, going to find something here to suit. Wine tastings every
Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Thursday. QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 18, tel. (+385-) 091 551 84
A 40. Open 08:00 - 02:00. APJW

Restaurants

Restaurants
Bistro RougeMarin
Looking for a suave casual dining place where you get val-
ue for your plate size, look no further. This Bistro has a great
combo of foods on the menu where they pride them-
selves on the ingredients used. Monthly menus change
adding variety to regulars with choices such as steaks,
ribs, pastas and soups. A bronzed burger menu and wok
dishes are always highly sort.QK‑4, Frana Folnegovića
10, tel. (+385-1) 618 77 76, www.rougemarin.hr. Open
11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (56 - 180kn).
AGB6W
Mali Bar
Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot
carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed,
happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the
decor with over thirty business casual making up the
major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but
with a tv-famous chef in the kitchen.QD‑2, Vlaška 63, tel.
(+385-1) 553 10 14. Open 12:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (75 -
145kn). APGBW
Mio Corazon
There’s genuine Spanish know-how behind this small eat-
ery, and it shows in the range of tapas on offer. Pršut, fish,
olives, the toppings are ones you’ll recognise, but perhaps
will not have tasted quite like this. It’s difficult to pick a fa-
Sake Tasting Diner, Noel Archives
vourite, but if pushed we’d recommend you try the olive
pesto tapas; the flavour just explodes in your mouth.QC‑2,
Radićeva 16, tel. (+385-) 091 621 77 63. Open 10:00 Ethnic
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (8 - 150kn). African Cuisine & Bar
NXBJ Launched by a Zagreb-based Nigerian duo, this neat and
welcoming place gets visitors in the mood with evocative
Pod Zidom Bistro&Wine Bar pictures of savannah-roaming animals. The menu is small
Pod Zidom (Under the Wall) is a wine bar and bistro right but still pretty adventurous by Zagreb standards, with a
in the heart of Zagreb. It offers dishes made from the fresh good balance of meat and vegetarian dishes featuring
groceries which it gets from the nearby Dolac market, a a lot of yam, plantain and spicy beans. There’s a hearty
wide selection of Croatian indigenous wines, as well as the home-cooked aspect to just about everything on offer;
usual array of cocktails and refreshments. Pod Zidom is a for dessert try the Zebra Cake, a suitably be-striped black
cozy terraced spot, ideal for those who enjoy the hustle and white affair dripping with chocolate sauce. QB‑3,
and bustle of a capital city, and who enjoy affordable Gunduliceva 13, tel. (+385-) 091 617 7778. Open 12:00
Croatian specialities.QC‑2, Pod zidom 5, tel. (+385-) 099 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun.
325 36 00. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 24:00, Sun (38 - 75kn). AGBSJW
12:00 - 22:00. (82 - 180kn). BE
Asia
Pupitres Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s
Run by noted local sommelier Jelena Šimić Valentić this also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the
smart, chic but altogether charming wine bar is one of landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT de-
the best places to explore the world of Croatian wine. The cor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact
arched brick ceiling has been painted white to give the it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently
place a geometric pop-art look, and the range of wines on top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also
offer ensure that you can try something affordable as well at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26.QD‑3, Augusta Šenoe 1,
as quaffing the finest vintages the country has to offer. tel. (+385-1) 484 12 18, www.asia-thouse.com.hr. Open
Settle your stomach with pršut and Pag cheese, alongside 11:30 - 23:00. (29 - 125kn). APGW
delicious crusty bread. QB‑2, Frankopanska 1, tel. (+385-
) 098 165 8073, www.pupitres.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Curry Bowl
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (15 - 85kn). AP So two brothers whilst travelling across Europe happen
GBW to fall in love with Zagreb and decide to introduce the

Restaurants
best bets for a quality meal on the move. Popular orders
include an exemplary miso soup, and a wide choice of 10-
to 18-piece sushi and tempura sets. Ginger Sushi’s position
on busy downtown Masarykova makes it a great place to
plant yourself on a stool by the window ledge and watch
the world pass by.QB‑2, Masarykova 21, tel. (+385-1) 889
70 86, www.gingersushi.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 83kn). AGBS
JW
Namaste
Zagreb’s newest Indian restaurant is a large contemporary
space and the menu is a fun and creative blend of tradi-
tional and modern dishes. Vegan food and a children’s
menu are available, and everything is accompanied by
colour and smiles aplenty.QH‑4, Selska cesta 217, tel.
(+385-1) 626 44 58, www.namastezagreb.com. Open
12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 85kn). APLW
Royal India
The perfect place to savour some authentic Indian cuisine
where the scent of incense greets you right at the door
and creates a temple-like atmosphere. Try some samosas,
tandoori chicken and warm naan with a cup of lassi or car-
damom tea along with a wide variety of other delicious
dishes. Be careful when ordering your food spicy because
unlike most of the restaurants in Zagreb, the food really is
spicy. Best of all, the extremely friendly staff recommends
the best dishes with the freshest ingredients for the day.
best Sri Lankan meals to this wonderful city. And that’s QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 26, tel. (+385-1) 468 09 65. Open 11:30
the inception of ‘Curry Bowl’, a place of rich and intense - 22:45. (60 - 100kn). APGBSJWK
flavours, exotic spicy herbs, all combined with organic
vegetables and meats from the famous local market Dol- Takenoko Sushi Bar
ac. Head to the vibrant Tkalčićeva Street for some kot- Having blazed a trail for Japanese food in Zagreb and
thu, devilled dishes or ‘curry in a hurry’!QC‑1, Tkalčićeva carved an enviable niche for creative Asian-European
44, tel. (+385-1) 557 91 75, www.srilankancurrybowl. fusion, Takenoko remains the place to go for fine dining
com/. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (48- with far-eastern flair. Their move from the upper reaches
78kn). AB S J W of Tkalčićeva to new premises in the heart of town has
if anything confirmed their preeminence. The deftly de-
El Toro Restaurant & Bar signed interior of dark greys and greens oozes class; while
As you might expect from the name, this place is themed there’s a superb range of sushi and a well-balanced choice
around good steaks and Latin American cuisine – how- of globally-inspired mains. Among the desserts, the green
ever these are just the starting blocks for chef Mario Mi- tea ice cream is worth singling out.QB‑2, Masarykova 22,
helj’s imaginative way with the pots and pans. The aged tel. (+385-1) 646 33 85, www.takenoko.hr. Open 12:00 -
T-bones and rib-eyes are what many people come for 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (80 - 300kn). APGW
although there’s plenty more to choose from, including
gourmet tacos and a couple of variations on ceviche (a
spicy citrus raw-fish dish from Peru). Seafood is a bit more
Pizza
adventurous than in traditional Croatian restaurants; the Duksa
baked sea bass for example comes with a delicate twist It’s not every day you come across good pizza. When we
of ginger and sweet-and-sour sauce.QJ‑3, Ul. fra Filipa say “good” we mean pizza with a thin, crispy base and
Grabovca 1, tel. (+385-) 099 613 2926, www.eltoro.hr. fresh, natural ingredients on the top. Duksa’s pizza menu
Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (80-200kn). APG offers about ten original “designs” with tomato sauce (“red
XBW pizza”) and a similar number without sauce (“white pizza”).
Each pizza has its own imaginative and humorous name,
Ginger Sushi for example “Shitake Happens”. Buon appetito!QK‑2,
A quick and unfussy sushi joint offering excellent Japanese Duknovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 233 45 56, www.duksa.hr.
fare in chic but functional surroundings, this is one of your Open 09:00 - 23:00. (49 - 64kn). APGBS6W

Restaurants
Vege Restaurants
Green Point
Looking for a quick, healthy alternative place to sat-
isfy your munchies and get some greens? Then step into
Green Point, where the green grass will greet you below
your feet. Choose from an array of vegetarian meals, in-
cluding hemp burgers, falafels or salads all prepared with
Himalayan salt. To quench your thirst pick out your favou-
rite fruit for a sumptuous soy milkshake made fresh, right
on the spot.QC‑2, Varšavska 10, tel. (+385-1) 483 36 67,
www.green-point.hr/en/. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Closed
Sun. (12 - 40kn). AGJW
Veganšpek
The latest hip new thing to hit the rapidly rising
Martićeva area is this bright mid-range-to-upmarket
bistro that delights the eye with its soothing but colour-
ful pop-art interior. The name means something like
“vegan/bacon”, a neat reflection of their desire to at-
tract discerning foodies of both persuasions. The menu
is actually divided into three sections; one for meat,
one for fish, and one for vegan options – all of which
are given equal priority when it comes to culinary cre-
ativity. Expect a measured approach to culinary fusion
with a well-chosen mix of local and oriental ingredients
and some genuine surprises – such as the Adriatic squid
with brown rice and cherry-liqueur sauce. The des-
serts are well worth making room for. QE‑2, Ul. Nikole
Tomašića 6A, tel. (+385-) 095 892 2960. Open 08:00
O’Hara
- 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (32 -155kn).
O’Hara’s is well known throughout Zagreb, having seen
AP G B S V J W i
their pizza chefs win award after award, after award. The
western suburbs of the capital might seem an odd place
Vegehop
for a pizzeria such as this, but the locals aren’t complain-
Whether you’re abstaining from meat for religious, ethi-
ing, and nor are the many others who travel across the
cal or health reasons, or if you’ve just had one čevapi too
city to eat here. Everything tastes divine, and while you
many. The average omnivore should feel satisfied with the
might come away thinking you could have eaten more,
number of vegetarian dishes on the menu; the daily menu
you will not feel the least bit hungry. That’s a guarantee.
is likely to fill you more than you could imagine. It’s tricky
QF‑3, I.B.Mažuranić 1b, tel. (+385-1) 379 21 12, www.
to find the place in the back of a courtyard, but there is
oharazagreb.com. Open 12:00 - 22:30. Closed Mon. (45-
also a helpful delivery.QE‑2, Vlaška 79, tel. (+385-1) 464
69kn). APGXTBS
94 00/(+385-) 091 464 94 00, www.vegehop.hr. Open
12:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 69kn).
Pizzeria Veža
NPGSV6W
For decent pizza just outside the centre there’s a lot to be
said for making the short trek to Veža, just beyond Kvatrić
Zrno Bio Bistro
market. It certainly has a memorable interior, featuring
100% organic food, the only place in Croatia which can
exposed red brick, discreet lighting, and seating arranged
boast such a thing, it also a decent selection of regional
communally along either side of a long, irregularly shaped
wines available. The interior is warm in appearance, with
table that meanders through the centre of the room. Al-
a narrow terrace outside if the weather allows. There’s a
though they’re named after local streets, the pizzas them-
bookstore in the basement as well, for budding architects.
selves are largely traditional in style, give or take the odd
QB‑2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 484 75 40, www.
creative twist: “Fijanova” is basically a Quattro Formaggi,
zrnobiobistro.hr. Open 12:00 - 21:30. Closed Sun. (55 -
while “Jordanovac” takes a standard tomato-and-mozza-
75kn). APGB6W
rella topping to another dimension with the addition of
capers, rocket and carpaccio of swordfish.QK‑2, Maksi‑
mirska 29, tel. (+385-) 098 384 304. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
(39 - 59kn). GBSVW

Local Flavour
What’s Eaten During
Carnival Time...
After the Christmas and New Year’s holidays, sometime af-
ter the Three Kings’ Day, begins the period of Carnival. Dur-
ing this time, the aroma of popular krafne, as well as other
specialties will be spread from house to house.
RITUALS AND TRADITIONS

Carnivals bring with them rituals and traditions. For instance,
people with fleas had to eat blooded sausage with sour cab-
bage at midday on carnival day if they wanted to get rid of
them. It was also advised to drink beer on carnival day - for
long life! Hmmm, now that explains the merriment about!
WHAT’S EATEN...
In the Hrvatsko zagorje region people still eat prisiljeno
zelje (cabbage stew) , which is stirred with garlic and pasta
sheets. Also popular is dry pork neck, the so-called lal-
ovka. As for cakes, the self-raising cakes are on the menu
as well as the obligatory, kraflini (doughnut). In Zagreb,
cabbage is also eaten, as well as polenta, beef, roast turkey
Photo by Višnja Arambašić or goose, and for dessert donuts. In Samobor, the famous
Samobor kremšnite are served, not to mention garlic
Winter is coming, and so sausages with mustard and sweet bermet as a beverage.
Slavonians enjoy meat leftovers in sausages, čvarci (dried
is the Food pork fat) and as for the sweet desserts - strudels, švargle,
In this area, the main food found on the dining tables of all donuts, masnica with walnuts or poppy seed and Greaves
homes during winter is sauerkraut, kiseli kupus, also called pie. From the Kastav and Ćićarija area come the sweet spe-
the doctor of the poor as it thrives well, there is plenty of cialty, presnac which is made of dough, old bread, milk,
it, and for this very reason it is inexpensive and available eggs, raisins and cinnamon. The other popular dessert
to everyone. Sauerkraut holds a large amount of nutrients are kroštule with almonds, fanjki, šurlice made of sweet
which is why it is an extremely healthy and nutritious food. dough, fig-cake made with walnuts and a bit of rakija, and
The most popular dish made of sauerkraut is sarma or presnac made of fresh sheep cheese and maroon cake.
stuffed minced meat wrapped in cabbage leaves; then In Gorski kotar, povatica is made from self-raising dough
there is sekili goulash, which is a fine combination of pork with cheese, apple or walnut filling. Fritule and kroštule
and chopped sauerkraut. are a popular dessert in Split. The obligatory crème-cara-
Sauerkraut is usually served with either grilled sausages or mel is home in Dubrovnik.
buncek ham - dried pork forearm, or with blood sausages
and hash-browns. Beans are a winter gem as they are also DOUGHNUTS
plentiful and ever so popular when served with sauerkraut The queen of the carnival table, succulent and hot, fried in
in a stew; they can be combined with barley in a ‘broth’. a deep oil are krafne/pokladnice or doughnuts; and the
And last but not least, turkey with dumplings is a slam bam pride of each hostess ascends as the dough rises and the
seasonal special. beauty of the golden ring encircles them. Some of the la-
So when in Zagreb, do as the Zagrebians do and your ap- dies would sprinkle lemon or orange zest, vanilla extract or
petite will become a lot more wholesome. Winter is simply rum, and their centre was filled with delicious homemade
not the same without these hotly prepared tender foods jam or dark chocolate. The sweet desserts in northern
that keep us resistant to the outside cold and prepared in Croatia are made of similar dough and are called fanjki or
traditional ways to be enjoyed by all! We can’t remember poderane gaće, whilst in Southern Croatia kroštule or frit-
ever having a single bad meal in a mountain lodge. The ule are popular. Today we also get uštipak (fritters) and its
smell of sauerkraut, sausages, cottage cheese with cream, variants are constantly being improved.
strudel, mulled wine...and the list sumptuously goes on!
Mountain lodges are places where you can still eat ‘old
school style cuisines’ just as our ancestors used to in old FOODIE’S GUIDE
Zagreb pubs - and still do in many homes today. Without a 01.02 15:00-21:00 » 3rd Salon of Sparkling
doubt, you will often see families of all generations, friends Wines Zagreb
and people who still have that one thing in common – a The Salon of Sparkling Wines is a one-day event that fo-
love of hiking and good food that awaits them at the end cuses solely on sparkling wines. More than 40 winemak-
of the road ... ers from all over Croatia and neighbouring Slovenia will

Local Flavour
gather to show off the very best sparkling wines produced
in these countries. As an extra bonus, don’t forget to look
outside and enjoy the magnificent sight of Zagreb in the
winter, as you sip your wine at Hotel Dubrovnik.QC‑2, Ho‑
tel Dubrovnik, Ljudevita Gaja 1, www.hotel-dubrovnik.
hr.
08.02 - 09.02 » Whisky Fair Zagreb 2019

There will be a great many producers, importers and
distributors presenting their offerings, and you’ll be able
to try more than 150 different types of whisky at special
prices. You can also buy bottles to take home and take part
in the popular auction of exhibition whiskies.There will
be old whiskies, unusual whiskies and exceptionally rare
whiskies, and you can take part in workshops and master-
classes. QI‑4, Plaza Event Centar, Slavonska avenija 6,
www.whiskyzagreb.com.
23.02 - 24.02 » 4th Olive Festival in Zagreb

The Zagreb Olive Institute and Slobodna Dalmacija will
once again hold a festival of olives where a double-
blind analysis of all participating olive oil products will
be undertaken by the Department of Public Health from
Šibenik; while abiding by the world’s highest standards to
measure quality. An organoleptic test of all the oil will be
undertaken by the OLEA company — also from Šibenik
— whose evaluators are trained professional olive oil
tasters.QI‑5, Zagreb Fair, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, www.
zagreboliveinstitute.hr.
01.03 - 02.03 » Vinart Grand Tasting

Vinart Grand Tasting brings together all the best wines
on the Croatian market to one spot. The organizers of this
event are on a mission to seek out the very best quality
wines. Come out and find some excellent choices of wines
to bring home with you, but don’t think too long about
coming to this event because all exhibitors are asked to
bring only a limited amount of their wines, so you don’t
want to miss out on purchasing your favorites. As well, if
you’re a wine connoisseur, you can even purchase those
hard-to-get labels.QH‑3, Lauba – The House for People
and Art, Baruna Filipovića 23a, www.grandtasting-
vinart.com.
Little Market
Many people feel they’d love to have better access to
healthy, organically grown food. And at the same time,
producers of organic food need better access to custom-
ers. Little Market (Mali plac) is an answer to this prob-
lem, enabling people to have a lot of fun along the way.
Here you can find all kinds of interesting delicacies from
the furthest corners of Croatia, plus natural cosmetics,
eco-friendly cleaning products and a whole lot more. It’s
also a meeting place where you can learn from others
about growing and enjoying natural healthy food.QC‑1, Rokoko cake, Photo by Berislava Picek, Maroje Mihovilović
- Kolači moje omame Vilme - Slatki okusi Austro-Ugarske
Centar Kaptol, Nova ves 11, www.mali-plac.org. Every
book, Esplanade Zagreb Hotel Archives
Wednesday.

Coffee & Cakes
For the month of December, the majority of cafes have Express Bar
extended opening hours, in order to accommodate the It’s an unassuming looking place, but with friendly staff
festive period. (but oh so skilled), and a pretty decent selection of coffee
and tea blends. Plenty of seating both indoors and out-
side, naturally, on the street. Coffee? Purely seasonal and is
Cafés based on fresh harvest and freshly roasted coffee. Express
A Most Unusual Garden has ‘blends’, a mixture of coffee most often from different
Enter a garden, not just any garden, a garden filled with countries, so Costa Rica, Salvador and Brazil might be in
decoration and as you begin to hear the chimes and blend this week, whereas next weeks could be entirely
rhythm, you’ll stumble across a tree house turn café. This different. They also have single origin coffee! So, if you
architectural masterpiece is decked out in a lush bohemian devour coffee, then you need to put the time aside to try
style, fancy yet rustic. Hot’n’cold beverages are available all a few cups.QC‑2, Petrinjska 4. Open 07:00 – 23:00, Sat
day round and you can choose to chill sky high or down to 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PBJW
earth, if you know what we mean.QH‑4, Horvaćanska 3,
tel. (+385-) 091 464 69 00. Open 08:00 - 24:00. PG Finjak
XB6W Neatly nestled just off the street, Finjak finds itself alongside
a number of like-minded businesses. This delightful step-
Booksa back-in-time antique-filled cafe has a very nice selection
Chill, laid back, Booksa could be a bookshop or library of high quality teas, as well as the usual coffee fare you’d
for all the reading material on offer. As it is owned by a expect. Heineken and San Servolo can be found here. In-
non-profitable association, you need to pay a year mem- doors is non-smoking but there is an outdoor terrace.QE‑2,
bership, a reasonable 10kn to enjoy all Booksa has to of- Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-) 098 130 0057. Open 08:00 - 22:00,
fer. So, come in, order from a wide selection of teas, pick Sun 09:00 - 15:00. GBJ6W
a book off the shelf, and relax. There are also readings
and workshops on a regular basis. A far-reaching vision Kavana Corso
indeed.QD‑2, Martićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61 24, Brass and copper tones is the best way to start with a descrip-
www.klub.booksa.hr. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. tion of this cafe, oh and a piano sitting in the middle of it all.
NGB6W Their Instagram account will give you a better idea. If you’ve
not seen it in passing, chances are someone’s told you all
Botaničar about it already. Hidden away on Rapska, Kavana Corso has
Perhaps oddly located in one sense, but perfectly in an- a 1950s / steampunky feel. Certainly worth the visit if you’re
other, Botaničar is a mix of art gallery, café, culture venue, eager to try somewhere new.QJ‑3, Rapska 35, tel. (+385-1)
situated only a few minutes from the Botanical Garden. This 484 01 93. Open 06:00 - 24:00. PGXTBE6W
part of the city seems to attract ‘underground’ venues, and
it’s easy to see why. Here you will find book launches, poetry Kavkaz
nights and, more importantly, somewhere peaceful to enjoy If you’re going to reopen a once-regular fixture on the
your tea or coffee.QB‑3, Trg Marka Marulića 6. Open 08:00 theatre circuit, you might as well do it in style. Kavkaz is
- 23:00. Closed Sun. PXTBSJ6W quickly drawing people back towards Kazalište Trg, serv-
ing not just your regular fare of coffee, wine and rakija, but
Cogito Coffee Shop presenting a decent food menu as well. Breakfast, lunch, a
This neat little minimalist masterpiece serves coffee from quick bite. Take your pick. The architecture is beautiful, and
Cogito, the city’s prime independent importer and roaster during these winter months it’ll provide a wonderful back-
of quality, carefully-sourced beans. With functional-but- ground to Advent selfies.QB‑3, Trg Republike Hrvatske
cute decor, indie rock in the background, and a varied 1, tel. (+385-1) 615 48 68, www.kavkaz.hr. Open 07:00
choice of English-language magazines, it’s a great place to - 24:00.
take a breather.And there’s an outdoor terrace on this rug-
gedly handsome nineteenth-century street. QA‑2, Prilaz Kino Europa
Đure Deželića 40, www.cogitocoffee.com. Open 08:00 Zagreb’s best known arthouse cinema, Kino Europa is so
- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. much more. Serving as a large café by day the nights of-
fer twice as much. Two halls play host to events such as
Eli’s quizzes, music performances, and must see independent
Any coffee aficionado would be mad not to pay this small features and documentaries. Kino Europa is not only home
coffee shop a visit. Non-smoking, because the owner feels to any number of film festivals but also to a rather kitsch
it ruins the taste, and serving nothing but coffee, Eli’s has shop where one can procure some very eclectic items in-
one of the friendliest staff ever encountered in oft-gruff deed. It should be a weekly ritual to check the cinema’s
Zagreb. Coffee is seasonal so you can be sure of getting website for upcoming features. In 2016 Kino Europa won
the right sort of coffee to match the time of year. Eli’s are the Best Programming Award by Europa Cinemas, mak-
careful about the quality of their product and only supply ing it officially the best arthouse cinema in Europe!QB‑2,
a few locations elsewhere in the city.QA‑2, Ilica 63, tel. Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 88, www.kinoeuropa.
(+385-) 091 455 56 08. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - hr. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:30 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 -
16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. NPGJW 02:00. PGBJW

Coffee & Cakes
Photo by Višnja Arambašić Dežman bar Archives
Program Bar
Part of the team responsible for the much-missed
Cakes
Martićeva landmark Divas café have taken their hospitality Amélie
skills up the road and launched another attempt at cre- A favourite cake shop among locals and visitors, Amélie
ating a destination café that will be markedly different to has an irresistible selection of ices and a lovely shady ter-
any others into which you have so far trodden. The interior race on which to linger. Only natural ingredients are used,
– featuring scaffolding, the odd bag of cement, and paint- favouring the fruit’s natural sweetness or honey over sug-
work so unfinished that you can still see the roller marks ar. Refined, intense and perfectly delicious.QD‑2, Vlaška
– takes a subtle swipe at the over-designed, over-themed ulica 6, www.slasticeamelie.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00,
Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PBJW
bars elsewhere in the Croatian capital. Good coffee, fine
cakes, comfy cushions and a good choice of beers and Meet Mia
wines ensure a regular influx of greeters and gossipers. The section of Vlaška closest to the city centre is home to a
The smoking chamber right at the back has the mysteri- wonderful grouping of shops, Meet Mia – a breakfast and
ous feel of an indoor forest. QD‑2, Martićeva ulica 14F, brunch restaurant - being among them. Here you can get
tel. (+385-) 098 993 82 79. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 everything from tea and coffee to grilled sandwiches and
- 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. XBJW dessert. Pick up something sweet to take away, or perhaps
give them a call if you need something special made…
U Dvorištu QD‑2, Vlaška 43, tel. (+385-1) 468 38 23. Open 09:00
Best described as one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets this -22:00. NBSW
chilled and laid back venue is somewhere to go to just get
away from it all, tucked away from all the action on the Orijent
street. Direct trade café this place has wifi, a great beer There are people we know who practically orgasm when
selection, and more than a few blends of tea to assist in they talk about this little place. The reason? Everything is
the process of relaxation. Perhaps best avoided if you’re home-made from fresh ingredients. The šlag in most other
not too fond of the feline persuasion, but certainly a place places is made from packet mix. Here it’s fresh cream, and
that’s all too happy to see, and accommodate, cyclists (an the same stuff goes in the ice cream. Nice old-skool vibe.
oddity for a city as large as Zagreb).QB‑3, Jurja Žerjavića QJ‑2, Maksimirska 34, tel. (+385-1) 231 53 23. Open
09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. NPGW
7/2. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00
- 18:00. NPXBJ6W The Cookie Factory
Warning: The Cookie Factory may be habit-forming! Al-
Velvet ready hooked on chocolate chunk cookies, ice cream
This corner cafe would not be out of place in the more styl- sandwiches and rocky road brownies? Wanna be? This
ish parts of London or Paris, and it’s all too easy to fall in sweetshop cafe in the heart of the city center will satisfy
love with the gorgeous ‘library’ section and lose track of any craving and possibly create some new ones! Gener-
your day’s plans. A nice selection of teas, and they make ously portioned classic American sweets are served in a
their own cakes as well. Outdoor terracing, but the indoor cheery setting only made more enticing with beverages
seating is what caught our eye. Decadent, in a good way. like fruit smoothies and coke floats. The aroma of “just
Pricey, but no more so than other such spots in the area. like Grandma used to make” is complimentary. Also in
QB‑2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 44, www. Nemčićeva 8.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 21, tel. (+385-) 099 494 94
velvet.hr/en/caffe.html. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 00, www.cookiefactory.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. AP
14:00. APGTBJ6W i GBJW

Nightlife
Aperitivo Bar
Fancy a cocktail! Then head on over to the Aperitivo Bar
for a list of signature cocktails. Cocktails and gin (present
here in innumerable different variations) are two obvious
standouts, although Aperitivo also works perfectly well as
a great vodka bar, a great rum bar, or a great whisky bar;
indeed the menu is a book-length guide to the world of
stylish drinking. The clientele ranges from the millennial to
the professional, and resident DJs are on hand most nights
of the week to generate that all-important good-night-
out groove. QC‑2, Vlaška ul. 9, tel. 091 111 16 78. Open
08:00 - 02:00. XBEJW
Bacchus Jazz Bar

Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted
grotto, but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in
the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche,
or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books
from the shelves under the bar.QC‑3, Trg kralja Tomislava
16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed
Sun. NXTBJ6W
Bikers Beer Factory

Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex
Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a
big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the
interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from
any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Juke-
box and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ
Top clip!QI‑4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, Dežman Bar
www.bikersbeerfactory.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Lined with fashion boutiques, florists and design stores,
Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. NP X T B the intimate pedestrianized Dežmanova street is like a
E6 W little piece of Paris pulled out of place and plonked down
in downtown Zagreb. The Dežman Bar very much lives up
Boogaloo to the prevailing ambience, with a chic and soothing cof-
A large space hosting an equally large assortment of fee bar that serves exquisite cakes and snacks, and a more
intimate drinks bar (“Dežman Mini Bar”) with a separate
entertainment options, from rock bands to dance DJs,
entrance a few doors down, serving a shrewdly-curated
Boogaloo is a recently-renovated space that holds great
mix of wines, spirits and classy creative cocktails. Served in
promise out in Trnje. The club has two main areas: one, a
both locations is a range of affordable, seasonally-chang-
large concert hall with limited seating in the back of the
ing gourmet food ranging from sandwiches to pasta, ri-
room; and two, an adjoining chill-out room that has tables,
sotto, fish and steaks.QB‑2, Dežmanova 3, tel. (+385-1)
couches and a bar of its own.QI‑3, Ulica grada Vukovara 484 61 60, www.dezman.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. Closed
68, tel. (+385-) 091 622 07 45, www.boogaloo.hr. Open Sun. Dežman Mini Bar Open Tue, Wed 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PXBW Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon and Sun. PX
TBJW i
Confusion
Situated at the beginning of Tkalčićeva, Confusion looks Diamond Palace Casino
much like any other place from the outside. Inside, how- Diamond Palace Casino Zagreb – the embodiment of
ever, you’ll find that the décor is unique to say the least. glamour, elegance and fun! At night, this impressive
Borrowing from world religions and cultures, the walls 1600m2 ambiance with murano glass chandeliers, suede
are festooned with iconography and items from all over. playing tables, and a bar made of rare onyx turns into an
The menu is as expansive, with kangaroo and crocodile almost surreal backdrop for players, as well as an inspira-
available. The non-smoking area is abysmal, unfortu- tional space for theme parties where you can have fun
nately, and is not smoke free at any stage of the day. with your favourite athletes and numerous stars who
QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 15, tel. (+385-) 098 46 36 65, www. this Casino has become an integral part of nightlife. Bar
confusion.hr. Open 08:00 - 04:00. AP X T B S of ultimate entertainment and stakes are constantly be-
VJ W K i ing raised, as well as the activities at international tourna-

Nightlife
ments of passionate poker players who are pouring into KSET
Zagreb. QD‑3, Draškovićeva 43, tel. (+385-) 091 311 On the cutting edge of all things cool, KSET has gained a
36 19, www.casino-diamondpalace.com. Open 00:00 - reputation for some especially cool live shows that include
24:00. PLJWO flawless jazz, rock and punk concerts as well as DJ perfor-
mances and theatre plays. Club run strictly by students is
Garden Brewery known for its cultural impact, chill atmosphere and urban
Situated in the wilds of Žitnjak, Garden Brewery, like its interior.QB‑4, Unska 3, www.kset.org. Open 20:00 -
name suggests, is the brainchild of the team behind Tis- 24:00, Fri 21:00 - 01:00, Sat 22:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun.
no’s Garden Festival. The brewery has a bar, open to the NGBE6W
public, and serves food, courtesy of Submarine Burger.
Garden Brewery holds frequent events, with renowned Močvara
DJs such as Craig Charles (Red Dwarf) and the Zagreb All- This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one
stars.QL‑4, Slavonska avenija 22F, tel. (+385-1) 563 41 of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also
00, www.thegarden.hr/brewery/en. Open 11:00 - 23:00, something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something
Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre
BW performances, literary events and art happenings includ-
ed. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the
Hub Cooltura Pub bar area is reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club
Zagreb, like any city, will always have its secret spots, opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it’s
and Hub Cooltura Pub is one of these. Tucked away just best to keep track via the web.QI‑3, Trnjanski nasip bb,
south and east from the main bus station, this is an ideal tel. (+385-1) 615 96 67, www.mochvara.hr. Open for
location to meet your friends and not be bothered by organized concerts and special events, so it’s best to
roaming groups of rowdy revellers. Coffee by day, some keep track via the web or Facebook page. NPG
craft beer by night. Not a place for a quick beer, more XUBEL6W
a place to sit and savour your drink.QK‑3/4, Rapska 20. Opera Club
Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. AG X U Zagreb’s general architecture lends to some interesting
B6 W entertainment locations, and Opera is one such place.
Just a few minutes’ walk from the main square, Opera is a
Jabuka Multimedia Club, and has a full schedule for the city’s resi-
This is the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Za- dents and anyone passing through on a weekend break.
greb. Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and The club takes bookings for groups and for special events.
Saturdays in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not Bring a camera, you’ll want to share with your friends.
without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electro- QC‑2, Petrinjska 4. Open Wed, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00.
pop.QH‑2, Jabukovac 28, tel. (+385-1) 244 19 44. Open AXJW
Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. P
Pločnik
Johann Franck Covering three floors, the concept successfully melds mu-
If a country’s largest coffee company opens a venue, it sic with cutting-edge design and the latest-and-greatest
must be reasonable to assume that you’re going to be from the alternative world of street art, into one multi-
happy with what’s on offer. There’s a reason why chains functional space. Visit the cafe bar on the ground floor
like Starbucks don’t see Croatia as a viable market, even to chill out on vintage couches while sipping a local craft
though seemingly all anyone does here is drink coffee beer in a collective living room-like atmosphere inspired
and watch the world go by. More terrace space than you by New York City from the 1930’s. Go upstairs to the re-
can shake a stick at, and a great location at the corner of cord store, listen to your favourite music and come away
Zagreb’s main square. Reasonably priced food menu with with a rare vinyl record, or step into the basement in the
affordable daily specials posted on social media.QC‑2, Trg evening to check out the nightclub and temporary art gal-
bana Josipa Jelačića 9, tel. (+385-) 091 783 81 53, www. lery. Pločnik is a collective lifestyle concept that’s definitely
johannfranck.hr. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - not to be missed.QH‑3, Međimurska 21, tel. (+385-) 091
04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. APGXBJ 430 07 33, www.pozitivanritam.hr/plocnik. Open 09:00
- 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. ABE6W
Kontesa Jazz & Cabaret Club
The place to go not only for jazz concerts by renowned Sax!
artists and cabaret shows, but also concerts of other This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays
genres and comedy and other theatre performances. here every night and is an especially delicious and wide
The club is run by the Zagreb Komedija theatre. Tickets array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all
are on sale in the club itself on the day of the perfor- featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for
mance, in the box office of the Komedija theatre in the their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies
Oktogon passage at Ilica 5 daily 08:00-17:00, or from depending on the show - this place is a can’t miss.QD‑3,
www.ulaznice.hr.QC‑2, Augusta Cesarca 2, tel. (+385- ) Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, www.sax-zg.hr.
91 222 32 16. Tickets from 19:00. Open 20:00 - 04:00, Closed Sun. NGW

Nightlife

Nightlife

Nightlife

Nightlife
Sedmica
This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hangout
for Zagreb’s young literati. And we can see why: the num-
ber seven’s dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain to stir
a literary bone in your body, too.QA‑2, Kačićeva 7a, tel.
(+385-1) 484 66 89, www.caffebar-sedmica.com. Open
08:00 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. APXTBJ
6W
Swanky Monkey Garden

You don’t have to go too far to find a terrace or courtyard
cafe in Zagreb, but Swanky’s Monkey Garden is a great ad-
dition and one well worth visiting at least once. The walls
of the main bar are papered with replicas of newspapers
and documentation dating back to the building’s previous
life as a factory, while outside there’s a raised terrace which
sits neatly in front a well tended vegetable garden and or-
chard. Thumbs up to the staff who organise live bands,
DJs, movie nights, wine promotions, warm ups for club
nights and festivals; it’s never a dull moment.QB‑2, Ilica
50, tel. (+385-1) 400 42 48, www.swanky-hostel.com/
mint/index.php/menza-bar. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 02:00. APGXBEJ6WC
The Old Pharmacy Pub

The mix of great waiters, CNN, Sky Sports and surprising
collection of English newspapers makes this place a chill
hangout, perfect for business or pleasure. Music doesn’t
shatter your eardrums, rare in these parts.QC‑3, Hebran‑
gova 11a, tel. (+385-) 091 245 61 83. Open 08:00 - 02:00,
Sun 16:00 - 24:00. APXJ6W
Tvornica
Great multimedia venue hosting anything from quality
live gigs (from rock via gypsy to electronica), plus fashion
shows, screenings and even discount sales of shoes and
clothes by day! Check out their website to see what’s
going on.QE‑3, Pavla Šubića 2, tel. (+385-1) 457 83 89,
www.tvornicakulture.com. Open on event nights 20:00
- 04:00. APXE
Vintage Industrial Bar

This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than
just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some
friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance
performances, theater acts, film screenings or even liter-
ary meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with
graffiti and black and white photography, create the
perfect environment to wind-down. And best of all, you
don’t need to worry about parking because the front en-
trance is a spacious parking lot.QI‑4, Savska cesta 160,
tel. (+385-1) 619 17 15/(+385-) 098 34 00 20, www.
vintageindustrial-bar.com. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 05:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. PXT
BE6W

Sightseeing
Essential Zagreb Top 5 Instagram Spots
Time is of the essence, so we’ve created a cheat-sheet of
sorts. See the best of the city in only a couple of hours to Dolac Market
prove to the guys at the pub that you’re cultured. The colours of the produce piled high on the stalls at
the city’s central market are simply irresistible.QC‑2,
Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Dolac 9.
Jelačića)
This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of St Mark’s Church
the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, The beautiful colours of the church roof make this a
feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named favourite motif on Instagram shots.QC‑1, Trg svetog
after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11.
Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy
and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s im- The Gradec Plateau
age has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 This lovely viewpoint offers a panorama of the part of
it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere the city where the Cathedral is located. QC‑1
because leaders found it overly representative of national-
ism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its The Lotrščak Tower
current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly na- This attractive white tower is the spot from which a
tionalistic.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. cannon is fired every day to mark noon. You can climb
to the top of the tower, where you’ll find there is an
Dolac (Dolac Market) excellent view over the city centre.QB/C‑2, Stross‑
Croatia is a country passionate about its produce, and mayerovo šetalište 9, www.gkd.hr/kula-lotrscak/.
nowhere is this more visible than at the farmers’ market Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Admis‑
Dolac. Small producers from surrounding villages gather in sion 20/10 kn.
this central food mecca to sell their leafy greens and fleshy
meats, which are instantly snapped up. Find everything Zagreb 360 Observation Deck
from turnips to bee pollen and unidentified seeds that A great place to take a shot of Zagreb’s main square
promise to straighten out your digestive tract. Old cafés from a bird’s eye perspective.QC‑2, Ilica 1a, 16th
and randomly strewn bar stools (appearing deceptively floor, tel. (+385-1) 487 65 87, www.zagreb360.hr.
free) surround the shopping chaos on the upper level; Open Mon, Sun 10:00 - 23:00, Tue 12:00 - 23:00, Wed
while the meat hangs below your feet, in Dolac’s under- 10:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:45. Admission
ground bunker along with fresh produce, cheese, herbs, 60/30kn. Family ticket 150kn.
nuts, loose grains, olives by the kilo…and much, much
more. A separate fish room (amateurs prepare your nose
pincers) and cheese room (likewise) will keep you wan-
dering through this ultimate homage to all things edible,
Dolac.QC‑2, Dolac 9.
Funicular
Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked
transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can
hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower
that guards the entrance to Gornji grad, that is of course
if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing
the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the
lazy amongst us!QB‑2, Tomićeva bb, www.zet.hr. Open
06:30 - 22:00.
Maksimir Park & the City Zoo (Maksimir-

ski park i Zoološki vrt)
A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the four-
legged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes,
grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as
clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car
engines have been removed from this place and as such
it’s a great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and
forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first Advent in Zagreb, Photo by Julien Duval,
of its kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, Zoologi- Zagreb Tourist Board Archives

Sightseeing
The Voice of the Artist, Photo by Boris Cvjetanovic, MSU Archives
cal Garden of Zagreb is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for
or 12 from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters
Bukovačka stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole
north side of the street.QK‑1/2, Maksimirski perivoj bb, lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside,
www.zoo.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00. February open 09:00 highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s
- 17:00. March open 09:00 - 18:00. The ticket office most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković.
closes an hour before closing time. Admission 30/20 kn. QC‑1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11.
Mirogoj Cemetery Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata)

Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it This archway was one of the four original entries into the
is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime- walled Gornji grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible
green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a
park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash
park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortu- that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760
ary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies
summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and can-
death the municipality bought the complete estate and dles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.
constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The QC‑1, Kamenita ulica.
well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape
of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition The Cathedral of Assumption of the
of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina
vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian Uznesenja)
sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp
Mirogoj takes 15min. You can also take tram N°14 from the looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in
main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state
the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).QJ‑1, Aleja Hermanna of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will
Bollea 27. push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve
been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t for-
St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) get to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded;
The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In
depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of- the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges

Sightseeing
by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically
destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where
the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious
damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes
place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised
skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to bat-
tle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00,
19:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 19:00.QC‑1,
Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Sun 13:00 - 18:00.
Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street)

You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting
humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages
you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out
the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the
sheer number of people wandering around here late
into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that
you’re starting to understand is very unique too!QC‑1,
Tkalčićeva.
Museums
Archaeological Museum in Zagreb
(Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu)
Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly
enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical
musings often accompany explanations of the materials,
moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this
earth.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1)
487 30 00, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00
- 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30/15
kn.
Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za um-

jetnost i obrt)
This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered
aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amaz-
ing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very
ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages
are available. People with special needs also have guides.
These services do not cost extra.QB‑3, Trg Republike
Hrvatske 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Open
10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission
40/20 kn. U
Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej su-

vremene umjetnosti)
Founded in 1954, the museum has relocated to a impres-
sive building as you pass the Sava River. The collection
here allows for the avant-garde to speak for itself with an
excellent range of paintings, sculpture, video art and pho-
tography. Mobile guides in foreign languages available as
well as free wi-fi connection.QJ‑4, Avenija Dubrovnik
17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00 -
18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30/15
kn. U

Sightseeing
Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski po- Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Mu-
vijesni muzej) seums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan
The collection of the Museum includes over 200,000 ar- Meštrović)
tefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and
from the Middle Ages to the present day. As this is not artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this
its permanent address, while it reopens, only temporary house from 1920’s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And it
exhibitions are displayed.QB‑1, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) is here where he completed many of his art works and
485 19 00, www.hismus.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chi-
10:00 - 13:00. Admission 15/10 kn. cago.QB‑1, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, www.
mestrovic.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Croatian School Museum (Hrvatski Closed Mon. Admission 30/15kn.
školski muzej)
Trace the development of the school system in this part
Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija)
of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educa-
The Modern Gallery is one of the richest of its kind in all
tors and kids alike. Pre-bookings for a foreign language
of Croatia; rich in culture that is. Located in the centre of
guide can be organized.QB‑3, Trg Republike Hrvatske 4,
Zagreb, in the Vranyczany Palace built during the 1880s, it
tel. (+385-1) 485 57 16, www.hsmuzej.hr. Open 10:00 -
18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. hosts permanent exhibits featuring more than 750 works
Admission 20/10 kn. of modern and ultra-modern art from painters, sculptors,
as well others who work in new media. From the staircase
Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen and grand lobby, to the halls on the first and second floors,
Petrović) visitors are presented with a harmonious image of cohabi-
Croatian sensation Dražen Petrović, the one nicknamed tation of old and new, yesterday and today, as more than
‘basketball’s Mozart’ is Europe’s greatest ever basketball two centuries of Croatian modern art await.QC‑3, Andrije
export. The museum presents winning medals, rewards, Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 55/(+385-1) 604 10 44,
personal items, letters and gifts from fans. A guided tour in www.moderna-galerija.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun
English is available if you pre-book for a group of 15.QA‑4, 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 40/30 kn. U
Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www.
drazenpetrovic.net. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - Museum of Broken Relationships (Muzej
14:00. Closed Sun. Admission 20/10 kn. U prekinutih veza)
Filled with mementos of relationships that have in one way
Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski or another - gone wrong! It first started here in Zagreb and
muzej) has toured around the world stockpiling an amazing array
High fashion collides with odd impracticality to pro- of items and descriptions that may have you thinking twice.
vide a unique look at the people of this country through Funny yet serious, it won the Kenneth Hudson Award in 2011
the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. for the most innovative European Museum.QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila
Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals i Metoda 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 21, www.brokenships.
and groups in English will cost 150kn per tour.QB‑3, Trg com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 40/30 kn.
Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, www.emz.hr.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon.
Museum of Illusions (Muzej iluzija)
Admission 20/15kn. U
Test your perception at this amazing and unique Museum
in this part of Europe where things do not appear as they
should, and that is where the fun begins. An adventure of
What’s going on? visual and sensual stimuli is about to test your very per-
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket ception, or is it deception? Best of all, a transformation of
the premises has just occurred with stereograms, illusion
Brain-Freez, Lauba - The House for People and Art Archives

Sightseeing
chairs and a kaleidoscope amongst the new features. Test The Croatian Natural History Museum
your skills with amazing visual and sensory challenges (Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej)
open for all ages and in both Croatian/English. Find the Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar
solutions to all of the illusions!QB‑2, Ilica 72, tel. (+385-1) can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much
799 96 09, www.muzejiluzija.com. Open 09:00 – 22:00. more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the
Admission 40/25kn. Family ticket 100kn (includes two creatures of the wild in it, only these aren’t capable of dis-
adults plus small children). membering passers-by.QB‑1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1)
485 17 00, www.hpm.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00
Technical Museum Nikola Tesla (Tehnički - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon.
muzej Nikola Tesla) Admission 30/20kn.
All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propeller-pow-
ered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara)
stations and a planetarium where you can view a simula- The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load
tion of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign language of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at
guide can be organized.QA‑4, Savska cesta 18, tel. all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much
(+385-1) 484 40 50, www.tmnt.hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00, more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20kn. Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20 peo-
Planetarium admission 15kn. ple minimum, then a guide is available in English.QB‑3,
Trg Franklina Roosevelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00,
The Croatian Museum of Naive Art www.mimara.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00,
(Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 40/30kn. U
Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive
art is a highly colourful and often political style of paint- The Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters
ing. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the HAZU (Strossmayerova galerija starih
imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a majstora HAZU)
foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of Bishop Strossmayer was a master of many things, that’s
200 - 300kn for every 30 minutes.QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda indisputable. When he wasn’t out mastering these things
3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, www.hmnu.hr. Open 10:00 - he was donating works and much of it is housed here. The
18:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 25/15kn. overhead lighting kicks your enjoyment of the oil paint-
Sightseeing
ings into overdrive. Masters featured: Bruegel, Carpeaux,
Benković and Proudhon to name but a few. Those who
pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in
English will cost 100kn per tour.QC‑3, Trg N. Š. Zrinjskog
11, tel. (+385-1) 489 51 17, www.hazu.hr. Open 10:00 -
16:00, Tue 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 30/10kn.
Typhlological Museum (Tiflološki

muzej)
This museum has a twofold function: enabling visually
impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art
and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the
sighted with the experience of blindness through installa-
tions such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with
only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about
the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits
are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair ac-
cess is enabled throughout. Special guides for the blind
are available.QD‑3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481
11 02, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Thu
09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 20/15kn. U
Zagreb 80’s Museum

This fun museum serves as a trip down memory lane for
people who were here in the 1980s, and as an education in
a golden era for those who were far away or not yet born.
The 1980s in socialist Zagreb were bittersweet – undoubt-
edly there were systemic and political problems, but there
was a certain carefree innocence which many yearn for to-
day. However we are here for a fun peek into the home of a
Zagreb family just as it would have been then, and you are
free to play the records, try on the clothes and play with
the toys and the retro Atari and Commodore 64 computer
games!QC‑1, Radićeva 34, www.zagreb80.com. Open
Photo by Marko Plečko 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 40/25kn.
Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Za-

For kids greba)
With theme music and sprawling city models, this mu-
Backo Express seum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps
The largest model train set in Southeast Europe. It is elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia
a miniature wonderland where no detail has been as an independent country in the 20th century especially.
spared. With a kilometre of tracks winding from un- Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option
derfoot to overhead, this miniature world is a favou- for an educational experience with the kids. There is also
rite for small children, while at the same time just as a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly
interesting for discerning adults of all ages. Enthusi- awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are
asts of the genre will be mesmerized by the over 100 available in addition to special guides for the blind.QC‑1,
model train compositions: featuring passenger trains Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, www.mgz.hr. Open
to freighters and everything in between. Not to be 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed
outdone, hundreds of roads are set into the stunning Mon. Admission 30/20kn. U
scenery and are alive will all manner of moving motor
vehicles; complete with stoplights and traffic signals.
Unique to Backo is a model ski hill complete with tiny Galleries
skiers carving up the face of this one-of-a-kind feature. Art Pavilion in Zagreb (Umjetnički pavil-
QB‑2, Gundulićeva 4, tel. (+385-) 098 20 28 83, jon)
www.backo.hr. Open Fri, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on
25/20kn. Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you’ll find a superb home for all
kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries

Sightseeing
of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. The Croatian Society of Artists
Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be orga- Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this
nized.QC‑3, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan
70, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popu-
11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission varies depending lar name džamija testifies, it was converted to a mosque
on exhibition. in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993,
the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of vi-
Lauba – The House for People and Art sual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in
(Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba) the Borovje neighbourhood.QTrg žrtava fašizma 16, tel.
Known as the House for People and Art, it has a collection (+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, www.hdlu.hr.
of 500 works created over the last 60 years and includes Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat and Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
some of the greatest names in recent Croatian art. Exhi- Mon, Tue. Admission 20/10kn.
bitions change monthly. The perfect setting for art and
interaction!QH‑3, Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1)
630 21 15, www.lauba.hr. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 Landmarks
- 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 25/10 kn. U The locals feel the following are somehow representa-
tive of their culture. Either that or they passionately at-
Oris House of Architecture tempt to deny their relevance. In any event, here they
The Oris House of Architecture is an all-encompassing are.
hub of architecture, design and art (Multimedia culture
centre). It’s a creative meeting place that hosts confer- Grič Tunnel (Tunel Grič)
ences, lectures and seminars dedicated to the arts. There’s Built during WWII as a shelter, this 350-metre long tunnel
a multimedia hall and library.QD‑3, Kralja Držislava 3, tel. was recently opened to the public and is located between
(+385-1) 377 81 77, www.oris.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat Radićeva and Mesnička Streets in the heart of the city cen-
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J tre. A range of cultural events are set to be hosted there
whilst in the meantime it is a fine safe-haven if having to
www.inyourpocket.com escape the hustle and bustle of the city.QB/C‑2. Open
09:00 - 21:00.
Sightseeing
The Croatian State Archives (Hrvatski Zagreb Welcomes You - Model City
državni arhiv) Measuring just under 13 square metres in area, the entire
On Marulić Square - part of the splendid, architecturally piece features over 2500 addresses, and over 400 distinct
planned Green Horseshoe - stands a grand Art Nouveau structures, all cast beautifully in bronze. The south and
building - one of the finest piece of architecture in Zagreb. west facing sides of the model feature short texts refer-
This building now houses the Croatian State Archive, the encing the history of Zagreb in both Croatian and English,
home of documentation of state importance. The Reading and they also showcase the original coat of arms of Zagreb
Room, which has undergone a full restoration completed and the seal of Kaptol. Also along the base you can see
at the end of 2004, is particularly fine. Guided tours are
a number of scenes which depict holidays tied to Croa-
available in English, German or Croatian at 10:00, 13:00
tia and the capital. The model was sculpted by Professor
and 14:00. 20kn per person.QB‑4, Marulićev trg 21, tel.
(+385-1) 480 19 99/(+385-1) 482 92 44, 480 19 21, www. Damir Mataušić, and has already ‘replaced’ the clock on Trg
arhiv.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Thu 08:00 - 18:00, Fri 08:00 ban Jelačić as the default meeting place for many of the
- 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. locals.QC‑2, Ulica Tome Bakača.
The Lotrščak Tower and Grič cannon

(Kula Lotrščak i Grički top)
INTERESTING FACTS
If in Zagreb you hear the blast of cannon fire, fear not, it These places have that unmistakable air of the bizarre, ec-
simply means it’s midday. This auditory onslaught is not an lectic and/or funky hanging about them making them a
elaborate pigeon-scaring scheme. According to one leg- perfect destination.
end, a cannon shot from the Lotrščak tower soared over
the river Sava and landed in the Turks’ encampment, right Alley of Sculptures - Open-Air gallery
on a platter of chicken that was being carried to the Pasha on the banks of the Sava
for his lunch. The Pasha decided against attacking a city After a four-year hiatus, sculptor Alan Novoselac and the
of fearsome sharpshooters so Zagreb escaped invasion. Croatian Association of Artists (HDLU), began setting
Since this ace shot was fired at noon, a cannon has been up sculptures by Croatian artists and sculptors at the Al-
fired at that time from the same tower ever since. Sited in ley of Sculptures. It was opened with the launching of
the Upper Town, the tower originally was part of the city’s the 12th sculpture in the series, by artist Zlatko Bourek,
defences, and later served as a prison. Nowadays, it houses
called Međaš (Border) Against Spells and Floods. Start-
a gallery and an art shop, and the view from the top is well
worth the climb.QB/C‑2, Strossmayerovo šetalište 9, tel. ing with the thought that: “The Drava, Danube and Sava
(+385-1) 485 17 68, www.gkd.hr/kula-lotrscak. Open rivers often rise to your doorstep, that’s why we carry our
09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. 20/10 kn. houses on our heads and bring them to safe places.” Bou-
rek makes his sculpture a talisman against floods and pays
tribute to all that have contributed to preventing the rivers
from breaking their banks.
Berlin Wall in Zagreb

One of the original pieces of the Berlin Wall can be found
in Zagreb in front of the German embassy and Goethe’s
institute at Ulica Grada Vukovara 64. It was donated to
the city of Zagreb on the 20th anniversary of its disman-
tling by German businessman Axel Brauer. Many cities
around the world now have a piece of the famous Wall,
which is one of the most sought after souvenirs in the
Freshwater Aquarium Karlovac Archives
world. The original Wall was constructed in 1961 and
separated West and East Germany till its demise on No-
Aquatika vember 9th 1989.
Freshwater aquarium Karlovac Meridian 16°

Karlovac is famous for its four rivers, each one just as The meridian 16° east of Greenwich is a line of longitude
lovely as the other. This beautiful modern aquarium that extends from the North to the South Pole and runs
is devoted to local freshwater life, enabling us to through the city of Zagreb. A sculpture dedicated to the
get to know our fishy friends better and understand 16th Meridian was created for the occasion of the 1987
more fully just how rich in beauty and biodiversity Summer Universiade held in Zagreb. It’s located at the
the Karlovac region is.QUlica Branka Čavlovića large intersection of Vukovarska and Držićeva streets. A
Čavleka 1a, Karlovac, tel. (+385-47) 65 91 12, www. closer analysis revealed that the true meridian actually
aquariumkarlovac.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admis‑ passes some 200 metres to the east — but nobody seems
sion 60/35kn. to care.

Sightseeing
Napoleon’s Milestone
On the South side of the river Sava, by the footbridge that
spans it, can be found what some call Napoleon’s Mile-
stone. It’s located close to the entrance to the Zagreb Hip-
podrome, and the Kajzerica neighbourhood, and dates
back to the 19th century when the French Emperor Napo-
leon established what was then known as the Illyrian Prov-
inces — a short-lived autonomous province of the French
Empire with the Sava as its border. The name Illyrian was
used to give credence to the Neoclassicist re-labeling of
the Dalmatian coast, which was known in antiquity as Il-
lyria.
Tesla Tower
For the 11th edition of the INmusic festival, held in May of
2016 at Jarun Lake in Zagreb, the city erected a 30 meter
replica of the Wardenclyffe Tower, also known as the Tesla
Tower. The tower contains 3,500 zinked metal parts repli-
cating the original structure. The original was 57 meters
high with a spherical top 20 meters in diameter, and was
designed by Nikola Tesla in New York between 1901 and
1902 to wirelessly transmit messages and images across
the Atlantic. Rumours say the original tower was de-
stroyed in 1917 to prevent it from being used by German
spies, others say it was scrapped to cover unpaid debts.
Zagreb Mummy
Perhaps the most famous relic in Croatia is kept at the Ar-
chaeological Museum. The mummified body from Thebes
was bought by Mihael Bari in Egypt in 1848-49, which you
may think seems perfectly reasonable, yet the mummy is
Etruscan and had no business being across the Mediter-
ranean. The Etruscans controlled large parts of west Italy,
including modern day Tuscany, from around 8 to 5 B.C. and
only basics of their language, which is pre-indo-European,
are understood. The Zagreb Mummy, like many celebrities,
is actually more famous for her clothes than her personal
talents. After her owner died it was discovered that the
bandages the mummy was wrapped in are strips of a book
made of linen. This book is the longest preserved text in
the Etruscan language and appears to be something simi-
lar to a liturgical calendar. The mummy is on permanent
display but her bonds are locked away and only revealed
to experts.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19.
Zagreb’s Solar System

Ever wondered what the great big metal ball on
Bogovićeva street is? It’s, of course The Sun - a sculpture
made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. In 2004, Davor Preis created
a scale model of the solar system around this mighty sun
at the following locations throughout the city: Mercury
(Margaretska 3), Venus (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3), Earth
(Varšavska 9), Mars (Tkalčićeva 21), Jupiter (Voćarska 71),
Saturn (Račićeva 1), Uranus (Siget 9), Neptune (Kozari put),
Pluto (Aleja Bologne - underpass). Preis never revealed
the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into
a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in
2006.

Sightseeing

Samoborski fašnik, Samobor Tourist Board, Zagreb County Tourist Board Archives
Sightseeing
A Parade of Carnivals! In Zagreb
The flair, the glare, the excitement and the dazzling cos- 2 March - 3 March: Living Pictures
tumes are just some of the elements we consider to be Reinvigorate the past! Relive some tales of Old Zagreb
a part of any carnival. Well, behold, dear readers, as your during the last weekend before Lent at this costume party
traditional carnival in Croatia includes not only these glit- held at the Zagreb City Museum. Don’t be surprised when
tering essentials but also something different, something you come across some famous characters from the city’s
spooky, something quite hair-raising, in fact. earlier period who will tell you their own stories. QC-1,
Zagreb City Museum C-1, Opatička 20, www.mgz.hr.
You may be scared right now but let us tell you that this is
a great time to be in Croatia, as you can join the locals in
scattering evil ghosts and releasing a year’s worth of frus- Zagreb County
trations all under the cover of fancy dress. This is, indeed, The idyllic little town of Samobor is just a few kilometers
taken to be the norm, a ritual intended to cleanse your soul away from Zagreb and has one of Croatia’s most popular
before the warm season of spring arrives. You see, carnival and longest-running carnivals. Festivities begin on 22
season is connected with ancient traditions from these ar- February and run through to 5 March.
eas that go back to the Middle Ages.
Good old Prince Fašnik is blamed for all the misfortunes
According to Slavic pagan customs, carnivals would begin in the region and is of course punished by being burnt
closer to the beginning of the year when locals would in a bonfire. It’s witty and political as there is a judge and
parade the streets, marching and cheering, they’d attend lawyer who defend the Prince by satirising current affairs
masquerades, fancy dress balls, wear costumes and sing in a highly humorous way. There will be food and mulled
to drive away evil spirits. This would carry on all the way wine on the square, competitions, fancy dress parades, a
to Shrove Tuesday, the day before Lent - the time of fast- costume ball - and lots of wild behaviour!
ing, a time of moving away from our wrong doings and
preparing for Easter. Samoborček buses leave from the Zagreb Bus Station,
Črnomerec and Ljubljanica every 30-40 minutes, de-
Quite often the final day of celebrations finish with the partures begin in the early morning from 05:00 through
ceremonial judgment of an imaginary character blamed to 22:00 or 23:45. There are no night bus lines, however
for everything bad that has happened over the past year. come Friday and Saturday evening, the buses ride all the
In the Zagreb region this individual is styled on a prince way to Podsused where you can catch ZET night city
and is named the fašnik, though his moniker is different in transport. A one way ticket will cost you 28kn.QSamo-
other parts of the country. But wherever you go, he is the bor Tourist Office, Trg kralja Tomislava 5, www.fas-
one who represents all our problems, troubles and miser- nik.com.
ies, who takes the blame and is then symbolically burned
in a blazing bonfire.
A little harsh, you say? Not in the least! Nowadays, carnivals

around the country intertwine the customs of old with the
fun and glamour of the present day. Everyone is welcome
as the carnivals include all generations, with some whole-
hearted devotees preparing for the show all year round.
You’ll see the evidence of this in the magnificent costumes
that are worn, some traditional and others so wacky that
they would make fashion designers dance with glee.
Most of the carnivals take place at weekends and con-

sist of a plethora of activities ranging from masquerade
balls, carnival parades, exhibitions, tours, sporting events,
dandy rituals and other celebrations. Needless to say, the
amount of food and drink consumed at such events is as-
tonishing, but at least you get to taste an array of gastro-
nomic delights.
Every region has its own customs, so wherever you hap-

pen to be, why not join in the fun, embrace the spirit of
carnival and experience it in a unique way. Let’s get an
insight into what’s happening and where... Samoborski fašnik, Samobor Tourist Board,
Zagreb County Tourist Board Archives

Joys of Winter
Your mother might have told you
that you need an apple a day to
keep the doctor away. We hearti-
ly agree, but there are a few other
things you can do to look after
your health in the winter.
Health Centar
The Health Centar is a health education centre
that uses natural methods and a holistic ap-
Health Centar Archives proach to achieve physical, mental and emotional
well-being. Energetic massages, acupressure and
reflexotherapy, spinal treatments, anti-stress pro-
grammes, education and relaxation and specific
exercises, all of which achieve numerous and last-
Villa Magdalena ing results. QJ‑3, Radnička cesta 20a, tel. (+385)
Find a moment only for yourself; afford yourself some massages 091 155 56 19, www.healthcentar.com. Open
and treatments from their rich offer. Renew your lost energy 08:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun. A
and move on to new challenges with west, classic, holistic, Far
East and energy massage, Ayurveda massage, Villa Magdalena
massage, Lomi-lomi nui massage and body and facial cleaning
treatments.Q Krapinske Toplice, www.villa-magdalena.net. Thermae Jezerčica
Thermae Jezerčica offers wide range of
massages and treatments performed
by trained medical therapists. From the
wide range of traditional Eastern mas-
sage techniques, Western anti-stress
massage and other body care programs.
Each individual will find something for
themselves. Spoil your body and your
senses with chocolate, wine, honey and
Villa Magdalena, Krapina Zagorje County Tourist Board Archives milk treatments.QDonja Stubica, www.
terme-jezercica.hr.
Aquae Vivae
Excellent and internationally proven medical tourist offer has
been complemented by the new indoor thermal complex – the
largest indoor complex in Croatia. Water slide, wildriver, 4,5 me-
ter deep pool for diving and artificia lwaves are only a part of
about hundred water attractions, which AquaeVivae are offer-
ing to their visitors.Q Krapinske Toplice, www.aquae-vivae.
hr.
Aquae Vivae, Krapina Zagorje County Tourist Board Archives
Thermae Tuhelj
Thermae Tuhelj is the largest bathing resort and wellness centre in Croatia. At Thermae Tuhelj know how to take care of your
well-being with massages and personalised body and facial treatments. Spoil yourself with thermal baths and escape from
the stress of everyday life with healing thermal mud wraps. In the biggest sauna centre in Croatia – Sauna World, they are the
only centre in the country which offers the appropriate sauna programmes. The largest water world of fun near Zagreb.Q
Tuheljeske Toplice, www.terme-tuhelj.hr.
Terme Tuhelj, Krapina Zagorje County Tourist Board Archives

Luna pink coat, Bon Ton store & gallery Archives
Shopping
This Winter’s Hot Shopping List
Shopping
For the month of December, the majority of stores have to be in fashion to be fashionable; refreshing to say the
extended opening hours, in order to accommodate the least. The clothes here are made in small series’ by fashion
festive period. designer Lidija Bošnjak who focuses on detail, high qual-
ity materials, functionality and longevity.QD‑2, Jurišićeva
10, www.vintage-circus.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat
Shopping Malls 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00. A
A woman’s fetish isn’t far away as the heart of Zagreb and
its outskirts is full of shopping centres. Each centre can be
reached by tram or bus with the Kaptol Centre and Centar Jewelry
Cvjetni walking distance from the main square. The bigger Bashota
centres require public transport and include Avenue Mall Jewellery from two end of the spectrum, choose from
in Novi Zagreb, Arena Centre in Lanište, City Centre One modern and original designs to jewellery which has been
West in Jankomir, Point Shopping Centre in Vrbani, City nurturing the family tradition since 1924. Also at A-2 Ilica
Centre One East in Žitnjak, Supernova Zagreb - Garden 69, tel.(+385-1) 484 69 41. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00
Mall in Dubrava and Supernova Zagreb - Buzin. What - 15:00.QB‑2, Ilica 37, tel. (+385-1) 483 36 23, www.
else can we say but, ‘shop till you drop’! zlatarnica-bashota.hr. Open 08:30 - 13:00, 16:00 -
20:00. Sat Open 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A
CROATIAN FASHION Jozef Gjoni
A shoo They opened in 1971, and since then have been producing
A not to be missed shoe shop and design studio in one. unique and one-of-a-kind pieces of jewellery. With a large
Waltz in and pick out some soft leather and skinny straps collection of handmade gold and silver antique pieces, as
to wrap around your feet. Anita’s shoes are walking sex. well as traditional Croatian jewellery, adorned with pre-
QD‑2, Martićeva 19, tel. (+385-1) 388 69 44, www. cious and semi precious gemstones, they offer something
ashoo.net. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed for everyone.QC‑2, Ulica Nikole Jurišića 10, tel. (+385-1)
Sun. N 481 09 02, www.zlatarna-jozef-gjoni.hr. Open 08:00 -
20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. AJ
Borovo
Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and Lapidarium - Zlatarna Mario
exports new collections as well as redesigned classics Looking for a piece of jewelry that’s truly one-of-a-kind
such as the already popular Startas which happens to be and fits your unique individualized style? Then look no
celebrating its 40th anniversary. There is Boromina, Bo- further because Lapidarium offers the perfect solution to
rosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best to hop into a your search. Not only do they supply finished jewelry, but
store for a truly 100% authentic Croatian souvenir or gift. they also allow customers to create their own custom-
QC‑2, Preradovićeva 16, tel. (+385-1) 485 45 52, www. ized pieces for every type of occasion.QC‑2, Radićeva
borovo.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed
10, tel. (+385-1) 481 39 96, www.zlatarna-mario.hr.
Sun. A
Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
AJ
Croata
Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a
Otvoreni atelier Lumezi
store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and
more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts sev- Zagreb jeweller Lazer Lumezi has become a cult figure
eral entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that among the discerning fashion queens of Zagreb in the
much more special. Also at Kaptol 13, Av. Dubrovnik 16 30 years of his career. Culty – maybe. Unusual – definitely.
(shopping center Avenue Mall), Vice Vukova 6 (shopping QJ‑3, Vlaška 113, tel. (+385-) 098 939 71 36. Open 10:00
center Arena).QC‑2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon), tel. (+385-1) 645 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N
70 52, www.croata.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun. A Concept StoreS
Mara etno butik bon ton store & gallery
A little boutique run by the charming Vesna Milković, who Bon Ton is a delightfully cosy boutique and art gallery
specialises in fashion design incorporating materials and combo, sitting at the heart of Lenuci’s Horseshoe. It doesn’t
motifs drawing on Croatian cultural heritage. Her fine lace scream chic, it whispers it seductively. Here you’ll find Paul
tops and bags make delightful and unique gifts or sou- and Joe, Paul and Joe Sister, to name but two lines, as well
venirs at sensible prices. Items made to order.QB‑2, Ilica Essential Antwerp and Closed. The walls play host to rotat-
49, tel. (+385-1) 480 65 11, www.etnobutik-mara.com. ing artists, so check out their website to see who’s being
Open 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A exhibited at any given time. Music plays a part in the art
space, and if you’re lucky, you could find dj Hell launching
Vintage Circus their new colaboration project. QC‑3, Preradovićeva 34,
This local clothing brand was built around distinctive and www.bontongallery.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00
unique clothing suggesting that something doesn’t need - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Shopping
Garderoba Concept Store A good old vinyl
Is fashion your passion? Then head to Garderoba Concept
Dancing Bear
Store (which literally means wardrobe in Croatian) for a
The best place for real music fans with a grand choice of
completely new range of clothes not to be found else-
vintage vinyl and CDs. Accessories such as music motifs
where. Its comprises of internationally acclaimed Croatian
printed on shirts, mugs, wine openers and the likes are
designer Ivana Omazić’s full collection as well as top Scan-
abundant too. And being the season of giving, it is also
dinavian brands which include ‘By Malene Birger, Baum
ideal if you wish to find that perfect Christmas gift for your
und Pferdgarten, and Rodebjer amongst others. Purpose
beloved. QB‑2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50,
fully designed, the store is devoted to the concept of slow
www.dancingbear.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -
shopping and has three large wardrobes in the form of a
15:00. Closed Sun. A
spatial attraction. The attire seeks sophisticated minimal-
ism in a multifunctional style. The lavish interior and qual-
Dirty Old Shop
ity staff make this shopping experience one to remember.
The one stop ideal shop for all lovers of vinyl, comics, t-
QD‑2, Martićeva 17, tel. (+385-1) 770 11 77. Open 10:00
shirts with cool prints, posters, original figures of charac-
- 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
ters from favorite shows, bands, movies and all retro to
cool!QI‑3, Tratinska 18, tel. (+385-1) 557 38 88, www.
Maschine Concept Store
dirtyoldempire.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -
As you enter, a sense of sweet rebellion is in the air and
14:00. Closed Sun.
this is all the more vivid as you hand pick the clothing
items stocked. Themes with rock, punk, skating and tat-
Free Bird
toos pretty much dominate all motifs as the designers are
We dare you to browse Free Bird’s vinyl collection with-
all about taking pride in feeling different. The strong co-
out getting giddy. Expand your experience of Balkan per-
lour intensity fused with modern art prevail. This concept
formers in their regional music section. Misplaced your
stores truly rocks and all items are Croatian made! QC‑2,
turntable? They’ve got a roomful starting at 300kn.QA‑4,
Ilica 14 (Hotel Jagerhorn Passage). Open 11:00 - 20:00,
Tratinska 50, tel. (+385-1) 382 18 70, www.freebird.hr.
Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A
Open 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From
9kn. A
GAMES & Comics
Carta Magica Karmavinil
This shop specialises in games: board games, card games, Did you grow up with a vinyl record in your hand? Remem-
trading card games, role play, fantasy and model-making. ber those good old days, when all music was on vinyl? If
There are also loads of accessories on sale, and there’s a so, then this store will revive some memories, as it is fully
large gaming zone for up to 40 people.QB‑2, Frankopan‑ stocked with a lot of records (second hand, most of them
ska 24, tel. (+385-1) 484 60 99, www.cartamagica.hr. original pressings) with many rarities that are hard to
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. A find anymore. Definitely worth a peek, with lots of music
genres covered.QH‑3, Podgorska 3, tel. (+385-1) 363 36
Here Be Dragons 85, www.karmavinil.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00
Here Be Dragons is a recent addition to Zagreb’s burgeon- - 15:00. Closed Sun.
ing fantasy community. This has a massive collection of
fully licensed and authentic fandom items. Harry Potter? VINTAGE
Game of Thrones? Star Wars? Marvel? DC? It’s all here.
Britanski trg antique market
T-shirts, back-packs, Funko Pop dolls, tankards, wands,
Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the an-
the list goes on. Situated on Tkalčićeva, you can’t miss
tique market is bursting with flair and excitement. Here
it, with Batman and Wonder Woman standing guard at
you will find various decorative things, old books and
the door and in the hallway.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 34, www.
collectables of both local and international origin. Lo-
herebedragons.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 -
cated in the very heart of the city, the market is a real
24:00.
cultural treat for all fans of antiquity.QA‑2, Britanski
trg.
Stripovi na kvadrat
An abundance of comics from this part of Europe as well as
Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market
the best known English editions are hot off the press here.
You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’
Heaps of figurines, t-shirts, badges, toys, games, DVDs and
here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated
gifts are also available and their website is updated with
on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with good-
the latest releases.QC‑3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+385-
ies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other
1) 483 77 77, www.stripovi.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat
handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining
09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Shopping

Shopping
will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the au-
thentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as
merchants leave by noon. The quickest way to get to the
Fair is to catch the bus number 295 at the Zapruđe Sta-
tion, this line is available on Wednesdays, Saturdays and
Sundays. For more info visit: www.zet.hr.QK‑5, Sajmišna
cesta 8, Jakuševac.
5 Museum Shop Finds

Archaeological Museum Shop
Take home a piece of history with you today from the
museum souvenir shop. Items include: ushepti figurines,
tripartite jugs, the head of a Pharaoh and many, many
more.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1)
487 31 01, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 -
20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. A
Art Shop Klovićevi Dvori

Souvenirs that prove you do indeed have the soul of an
artist.QC‑1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26. Open
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. A
HNK Art Shop

Amble into the souvenir shop where you can find T-shirts
with Hamlet prints, DVD monographs, War and Peace
postcards, umbrellas, cups, puzzles and other fancy
items with motifs from different theatre shows.QB‑3, Trg
maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, www.hnk.hr.
Usually operates every evening when there are shows
on. A
Alkarica, Etno Butik Mara Archives
Msu Shop
Kofer. Archives A great choice of books and works by Croatian and in-
ternational designers.QJ‑5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel.
(+385-1) 605 27 58, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
Muo Shop
Gifts inspired by the collection in the lovely Museum of
Arts and Crafts.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1)
488 21 10/(+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Open 10:00
- 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. A
Bookshop
Planetopija
This bright and welcoming bookshop specialises in every-
thing related to healthy living: cookery books, vegetarian-
ism, environmentalism, conscious parenting, health and
personal development - in Croatian and in English. There’s
a lovely selection of books designed to awaken ethical
sensibilities in children, plus a range of eco-friendly toys
and gifts for everyone.QB‑2, Ilica 68, tel. (+385-1) 484 61
97, www.planetopija.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun. AJ

Shopping
Delicatessen for book lovers!

Bonkulović Delicacies
Take your pick with their wide range of world famous deli- The Goldsmith’s Treasure (Zlatarovo
cacies.QI‑2, Nova ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) zlato)
486 07 89, www.bonkulovic.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Avid readers should definitely get a hold of the first
Closed Sun. A Croatian historical novel, written in 1871 by August
Bornstein Šenoa and was only recently translated into English.
This is a boutique wine store in town and it’s run by a team It’s a tale of a prohibited love between the daughter of
that will tell you the A-Z of the fine grape drop. Its owners a goldsmith and a nobleman’s son set right here in the
have reinvigorated this immaculate wine bar located just heart of Zagreb. The same streets, squares, churches,
above the Zagreb Cathedral, in a 19th century basement. markets and monuments you’ve seen yourself whilst
Over 300 wines are available from small family owned visiting our city reappear in the book. This fight for
wineries to the more prestige sorts.QC‑1, Kaptol 19, tel. love and passion is dramatised with the addition of
(+385-1) 481 23 61, www.bornstein.hr. Open 09:00 - nobles, commoners, charlatans and murderers who
20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A attempt to divide the devotions that Dora and Pavao
have for one another. The novel is the perfect memoirs
Gavrilović of Zagreb, a great addition to your library collection
A food gallery, specialising in various meats. A tradition be- or a subtle souvenir for a friend. Buy a book at: Take
ginning in the 19th Century, this is a favourite of the locals Me Home Croatian Design Shop, Link Gallery, Croatian
in spite of its expense. Famous for their pates, kulen (spiced Design Superstore at Franjo Tuđman Airport, Znanje
Slavonian meat) and various other dried meat.QC‑2, Trg Bookstore, Ljevak Bookstore, Hoću knjigu!, Tisak Me-
bana Josipa Jelačića 4, tel. (+385-1) 487 56 03, www. dia.Qwww.spiritoso.hr.
gavrilovic.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. AJ
Gligora
Award-winning Pag cheese manufactures from Kolan, lo-
cated on the Island Pag.QC‑2, Dolac Market, tel. (+385-1)
What’s going on?
580 12 84, www.gligora.com. Open 07:00 - 14:00, Mon facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Shopping
Kandit
Chocoholics come hence forth and try the candy and
Home comforts
sweets from this Osijek chocolate factory. Reward yourself Kofer.
with their irresistible Rum Bar and Riki Chocolate!QD‑2, Kofer started as a small project designing candles in tins,
Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 53, www.kandit. and the little design company has since grown beyond
hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. the world of small tealights. Gin, tea, spices, planners, even
AJ piggy banks are now found in these intricately designed
tins, ideal gifts for the holiday season or any other time
Kraš of year. Check out the little store on Ivana Gundulića, or
Croatian factory of candies and sweets of all kinds. Award the even smaller stall in the City Center One East shop-
winning, bring your sweet tooth and try Bajadere and Gri- ping centre. QB‑2, Gundulićeva 13, tel. (+385-) 091 442
otte! Also at Avenija Marina Držića bb (E-4), tel. (+385-1) 22 33, www.facebook.com/kofer.design. Open 11:00 -
611 32 91, Open 07:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun and Varšavska 20:00. Closed Sun.
1 (B-2), tel. (+385-1) 487 28 55, Open 07:00 - 20:00, Closed
Sun.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 12, tel. (+385-1) 481 Rogaška Crystal
04 43, www.kras.hr. Open 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. For all top-of-the-line lovers of glass and crystal, the
A Rogaška glassworks have opened a new store in town
and their 350 year combination of tradition, art, passion
Kredenca Gift Shop and openness to new technologies still thrives. Their rich
Bring home a small part of Croatia with authentic products assortment includes crystal vases, candlesticks, bowls,
manufactured from all four corners of the country. This picture frames, a wine program with top-quality crys-
cute store has something for everyone including liqueurs, tal glasses to offer wine lovers a new dimension of wine
rakija (for tasting), olive oil, honey, jam, wines, natural cos- enjoyment and a bar with impeccable design to enjoy
metics, jewellery, souvenirs, decorative objects made of some relaxed moments. All handmade in Europe.QE‑2,
ceramic and Murano glass and more. For non-EU residents Trg žrtava fašizma 3, www.steklarna-rogaska.si. Open
tax-free shopping.QC‑1, Radićeva 13, tel. (+385-) 091 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
278 20 40/(+385-1) 562 65 79; (+385-) 091 544 72 94,
www.kredenca.com. Open 09:00 -22:00. A
Kuća pršuta, sira, vina i maslina

Pršut, panceta, pečenica. You name it, this place has it.
Most of the meat on display is cured by the owners. The
cheeses are all Croatian, and come from some of the most
notable names on the market: Gligora, Sabalić, Puđa, etc.,
and you’ll also find a wide selection of olives, preserves,
and spirits. Moet, Hennessy, and Croatian wines are
aplenty here.QD‑2, Vlaška 33, tel. (+385-) 095 854 20 38.
Open 09:00 - 02:00. AJ
Kuća zelenog čaja

A teahouse selling dozens of aromatised black, green,
white, herbal, fruit and rooibos teas.QB‑2, Ilica 14 (Pas‑
sage Lovački rog), tel. (+385-1) 483 06 67, www.
kucazelenogcaja.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -
16:00. Closed Sun. AJ
Natura Croatica
A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection of rakije
and other Croatian delicacies.QC‑3, Petra Preradovića 8,
tel. (+385-1) 485 50 76, www.naturacroatica.com. Open
09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Spice Up
This Indian retail features a great selection of high-quality
merchandise of fresh spices, gourmet food, Indian tea
varieties, basmati rice, lentils, cosmetics and many other
grocery products through to personal care, apparel and
more. It’s a small store but packed with goodies for a taste
of curry in a hurry!QD‑3, Mrazovićeva 9, tel. (+385-1) 457
91 90, www.spiceup.eu. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun. Bon Ton store & gallery Archives

Arrival & Getting Around
Arriving By plane
The new passenger terminal at the Franjo Tuđman Air-
port, located 17km out of town and with a capacity of
hosting 5 million passengers per year, went into commer-
cial use in spring 2017. Getting to Town: Pleso prijevoz
(www.plesoprijevoz.hr) runs a bus service from Franjo
Tuđman Airport to the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni
kolodvor), which leaves according to flight schedules from
outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person.
Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi
in front of the international arrivals. Due to the specific loca-
tion of the Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly.
Franjo Tuđman International Airport

Zagreb (Zračna luka Franjo Tuđman
Zagreb)
QRudolfa Fizira 1, tel. (+385-) 060 32 03 20, www.
zagreb-airport.hr.
Arriving By bus
The ground floor of the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni
kolodvor) is home to a series of shops where anything
from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The
top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun) and chapel. Window N°3, the
Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed
by someone with at least a minor command of English.
Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the
main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building
along Avenija Marina Držića. There is a currency exchange
(mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in
the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in
the Garderoba (Open 06:00 - 22:00) located up the small
staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your
bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/
hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of
the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you
want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is
to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind
you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your
best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6
towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana
Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 50kn
to get to the centre. Getting around Town: Zagreb is well
connected with buses which are linked to all major cities in
Croatia. In addition, local lines run regularly between Za-
greb County and its surrounding area. Ticket prices in one
direction within a radius of 50 kilometres from the coun-
tries capital range from 26-77kn.
Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor)

QE‑4, Avenija M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 072 500 400,
www.akz.hr.

tourist information Public transport
Trams & Buses
Tourist Information Centre Getting around town is made all the much easier via the
Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Za- city’s Tram and Bus Systems, both of which can take you
greb Airport, next to the arrivals area, at the Main Bus from A to Z. Tramwise, the city has 15 tram lines that run
Station, at the Main Train Station and Lotrščak Tower. from 04:00 - 24:00; the night trams (4 lines) run from 24:00
QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 - 04:00. In terms of buses, a list of departure times can
53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, www.infozagreb.hr. Open be found at all bus stops marked by the blue signs with
08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00, a bus picture. The biggest bus stop is just south of C-4,
During December Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage.
19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. There are 133 daily bus lines and 4 night lines which link
Zagreb, Sesvete, Velika Gorica and Zaprešić. The largest
Zagreb County Tourist Board and most known tram and bus stations are positioned
QC‑3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, at Črnomerec, Dubec, Glavni kolodvor, and Savski most.
www.tzzz.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tickets cost 10kn for daily transport and 15kn for night
rides (00:00 – 04:00), each is valid for 90 minutes, while
daily tickets are 30kn. A 4kn ticket is valid for short rides
Arriving By train up to 30 minutes and is available only at kiosks and ZET
store while the others are available from the driver on
Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not very user- buses, at kiosks or ZET stores. Children under six ride free.
friendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into Please validate your ticket once you board: an invalidated
the city. Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk ticket is as good as no ticket at all, and getting caught
through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left without one is an embarrassing and costly experience,
corner. A currency exchange is located in the international with inspectors operating on a random schedule. For
ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office detailed schedules and route plans of ZET buses and
(Tel. (+385-1) 378 25 83 (or *VLAK). Open 05:00 - 23:00) trams, simply visit www.zet.hr. Qtel. (+385-) 072 50 04
is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing 00, www.zet.hr.
area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Buy your tickets
online via www.hzpp.hr/en or download for free their The Sljeme bus line
mobile application HŽPP. The left luggage facilities The Sljeme line numbered 140 takes off from Mihaljevac
(Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of stop and goes to the Tomislavov dom’s stop, eight times
the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage a day throughout the week, and every hour on weekends
costs 15 - 25kn/per day. Getting to Town: Walk out the between 06:20 – 21:50.Qwww.zet.hr/userdocsimages/
main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the voznired/140.pdf.
centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića,
take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading
towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and Biking
a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of Why not swap that four-wheeler for a two-wheeler? In
routes and will cost around 30kn. Getting around Town: what is becoming somewhat of a common trend, more
Railroads are connected with almost all major cities in Croa- and more locals have thought wisely and have begun to
tia, train rides within and around the Zagreb area are faster choose the ecological route to town. Even though bike
and less expensive than other means of transport. There routes haven’t fully been mapped, roads are marked for
are also seasonal discounts and organised day trips where cyclists with either red paint or are separated from the
guests can see quite a lot in little time. You can travel in a main road by yellow and white lines. Markings are very
couchette and take your car or motorbike on a train as well. visible and clear to both bike riders and car drivers. If you
Bike transport is charged 15kn inside the country and 5€ would like to rent a bike (daily rental will cost 100kn), visit
for international transport. And for all you pet lovers, bring any of the following www.zagrebbybike.com, www.
your very best friend along but do know that you must nextbike.hr, www.bike.com.hr. For those seeking a
have a mandatory veterinary booklet, small dogs are free recreational ride, then Maksimir, Bundek and Jarun
of charge if kept in your lap or in a basket: Larger dogs must are the ideal locations. True cycling enthusiasts who wish
wear a muzzle and are charged at 50% of the standard price to be challenged should know that the city surround-
for tickets. ings are filled with alternative bicycle routes that range
in various levels of degree as well as different types of
Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) surface. For all other information and maps, visit the
QC‑4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-1) 378 25 83, Zagreb Tourist Association and www.pedala.hr, www.
www.hzpp.hr. mojbicikl.hr.

Parking
Street parking/SMS Parking
There are four parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs
on the side of the street: zone 1 is 12kn/h with a maximum
waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 is 5kn/h with a maximum
waiting time of 3 hours, zone 3 is 2kn/h and zone 4 is 10kn/
day. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which
is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it
on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message
your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown
(including the international code if you’re using a foreign
mobile). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a
return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a
timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you
to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to
move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot
or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid
for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector
spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 100,
60, 20 or 30kn respectively according to the zone, and can
be paid in any post office.Qwww.zagrebparking.hr.
Taxis
Eko taxi
As soon as you reach Zagreb, download Eko Taxi’s free
and easy to use application which is available on IOS and
Android Systems, and you can order a taxi without even
making a call. These are hybrid vehicles, the starting price
is 8.80kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 6kn whilst
the price for waiting is 43kn per hour. All luggage is free of
charge and the prices are the same for night rides, Sundays
and public holidays.QVodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-) 14 14,
www.ekotaxi.hr. A
Radio taksi Zagreb

Taxis should only charge a 10kn flat fee plus 6kn/km. These
prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends.
There is no additional charge for luggage whilst the price
for waiting is 40kn per hour. You can find lines of them in
front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and nu-
merous other central locations.QD‑6, Božidara Magovca
55, tel. (+385-) 17 17, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr.
Taxi Cammeo
These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you
can stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 1212
and 060 71 00. The starting price is 6kn, and every kilo-
metre thereafter costs 6kn whilst the price for waiting is
40kn per hour. These prices are consistent for night rides, View from my window, Photo by Željko Krčadinac
holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for
luggage.Qtel. (+385-) 12 12/(+385-) 060 71 00, www.
taxi-cammeo.hr. A Berlitz
Uber Language lessons and business workshops set up
The Uber app is in full swing in Zagreb. Go anywhere in the for companies with verified innovative methods and
city at any time with the tap of your finger. Use the app to standardised programs.QC‑2, Ilica 44, tel. (+385-1)
find the driver nearest to you, automatically calculate the fare 481 21 16, www.berlitz.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat
and pay via their exclusive cashless system. Uber is the most 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
affordable option for getting around. Qwww.uber.com.

Zagreb Basics
Customs Toilets
There are no custom limits between member states of the You ‘had to go' forty-five minutes ago...public toilets or WCs
EU or tax return. For other non-member states we recom- (pronounced ‘vay-say') are few, as one in the Cesarčeva
mend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr. Street near the main city square, which is free of charge and
wheelchair-accessible. Your best bet is to find and use one
inside the shopping malls and bigger stores or take a seat
Disabled travellers at a café, order yourself a beverage and then hustle through
Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take the appropriate door - gospoda or muški for men, dame
shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is or ženski for women.
still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all car parks have
parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one
room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have Visas
suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU mem-
In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect ber states need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make
problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your coun-
buildings. If you're planning to visit, we suggest you inquire try of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are
about your destination in relation to these matters and the flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities through-
majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival out Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple
as accessible as possible. entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and
Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforemen-
tioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.
Electricity
The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the
United States will need to use a transformer to run electri- When things go wrong
cal appliances. Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zagreb signifi-
cantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should
keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an
Water emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emer-
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking. gency Number (+385) 112 which then transfers you to
police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city
district, in case you were involved in an accident or were
money arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In
There are plenty of exchange offices around Zagreb, as well as that case, contact your embassy. The main building for ER
an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. is located in Heinzelova Street 88 (K-3) where everything
Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, necessary will be done or you will be taken to the nearest
so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. hospital if need. In case of an accident call HAK road help
24/7 (+385) 1987.
Roads
When behind the wheel drivers must always have their
driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. national holidays 2019
Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt
and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alco- January 1 New Year’s Day
hol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in January 6 Epiphany
urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ April 21 Easter
ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As April 22 Easter Monday
they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer. May 1 International Workers’ Day
June 20 Corpus Christi
Tipping June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day
June 25 Statehood Day
Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about
tipping, but seeing how you're a visitor to the country and August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day
all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw August 15 Feast of the Assumption
a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically October 8 Independence Day
round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they November 1 All Saints’ Day
want to tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff's efforts seems December 25 Christmas
like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn't it? December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day

Street register
29. X. 1918. C-1 Franje Račkog D-2 Kralja Držislava D-3 Patačićkina D-2 Tomićeva B-2
Aleksandrove stube B-1 Frankopanska B-3 Kralja Zvonimira E-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Tratinska A-4
Amruševa C-2 Froudeova B-1 Kraljice Jelene E-3 Pavla Šubića E-3 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4
Andrije Hebranga B-3 Golubovac B-1 Kranjčevićeva A-4 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2
A. Heinza E-1 Grič B-2 Križanićeva D-3 Perkovčeva B-3 Trg Biskupa J. Langa D-1
Andrije Žaje A-3 Grgura Ninskog C-4 Kršnjavoga A-3 Petrinjska C-2 Trg braće Hrv. Zmaja C-1
Antuna Bauera E-3 Gundulićeva B-3 Krutićeva E-3 Petrova E-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3
Arnoldova A-2 Habdelićeva C-1 Krvavi most C-2 Pierottijeva A-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3
Augusta Šenoe D-3 Harmica C-2 Kumičićeva C-4 Pod zidom C-2 Trg kralja P. Krešimira IV E-3
A. Marina Držića E-4 Hochmanova A-3 Kurelčeva D-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3
Bakačeva C-2 Hrvojeva E-3 Kuševićeva B-1 Praška C-2 Trg Republike Hrvatske B-3
Barčićeva E-2 Ilica A-2 Laginjina E-2 Preobražanska C-2 Trg N. Šubića Zrinjskog C-3
Baruna Trenka C-3 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Lepušićeva E-3 Preradovićeva C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2
Basaričekova C-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Lisinskog B-1 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1
Bednjanska B-4 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Lopašićeva E-2 Primorska A-2 Trg Svetog Marka C-1
Berislavićeva C-3 Jagićeva A-3 Ljudevita Gaja C-3 Radićeva C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4
Biankinijeva E-2 Janka Draškovića D-3 Margaretska C-2 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Trpimirova D-4
Bogovićeva C-2 Jezuitski trg C-1 Marićev prolaz C-2 Radnički dol A-1 Tuškanac B-1
Božidara Adžije A-3 Jukićeva A-3 Markovićev trg B-1 Ribnjak C-1 Tvrtkova E-3
Branjugova D-2 Jurišićeva C-2 Martićeva D-2 Rokov perivoj B-2 Unska B-4
Brešćenskoga E-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Marulićev trg B-3 Rokova A-2 Varšavska B-2
Britanski trg A-2 Jurkovićeva E-1 Masarykova B-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Vinkovićeva C-1
Brozova A-4 Kačićeva A-3 Matičina C-3 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Visoka B-1
Buconjićeva A-2 Kamaufova E-2 Matoševa B-1 Runjaninova B-4 Vitezovićeva C-1
Bulatova A-2 Kamenita C-1 Mažuranićev trg B-3 Šalata D-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1
Bulićeva E-2 Kaptol C-1 Medulićeva B-3 Savska cesta A-4 Vlaška D-2
Čačkovićeva E-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Mesnička B-2 Schlosserove stube D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1
Cesarčeva C-2 Katančićeva C-3 Mihanovićeva B/C-4 Širolina E-3 Voćarsko naselje E-1
Čirilometodska C-1 Katarinin trg C-1 Miklouševa C-1 Skalinska C-1 Vodnikova B-4
Crnatkova A-4 Klaićeva A-3 Mikulićeva E-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Vojnovićeva E-2
Dalmatinska B-2 Kneza Borne D-3 Miramarska C-4 Splavnica C-2 Vončininova D-1
Degenova C-1 Kneza Branimira D-4 Mletačka B-1 Stančićeva E-3 Vramčeva D-1
Demetrova B-1 Kneza Lj. Posavskog E-3 Mlinarske stube C-1 Starčevićev trg C-4 Vranicanijeva B-1
Dežmanova B-2 Kneza Mislava D-3 Mrazovićeva D-3 Streljačka B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3
Domagojeva D-4 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Nikole Tesle C-2 Strojarska E-4 Weberova C-1
Đorđićeva D-2 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Novakova D-1 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Zamenhoffova A-1
Dubravkin put B-1 Koranska B-4 Opatička C-1 Strossmayerovo šet. B-2
Dvoranski prečac C-1 Kordunska A-2 Opatovina C-1 Svačićev trg C-3
Erdödyeva E-3 Koturaška A-4 Palmotićeva D-3 Švearova E-3
Felbingerove stube C-1 Kovačića Ante C-3 Pantovčak A-2 Brezovačkoga B-1
Florijana Andrašeca A-4 Kozarčeva A-1 Park Ribnjak D-1 Tkalčićeva C-1
Frane Petrića C-2 Kotarska C-1 Paromlinska C-4 Tomašićeva E-2

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Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping

N°94 - complimentary copy

Esplanade Zagreb Hotel Archives

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18.12 - 10.02 » Nikola Mašić - Noble Realist

10.01 - 21.04 » Josef and Anni Albers – Voy-

13.12 21:00 » The Strange

The Strange, Photo by Mare Milin

Festival of Lights Zagreb 2018, Photo by M. Mihaljević,

24.02 - 03.03 » ZagrebDox – International

28.02 19:30 » Master Cycle of the Croatian

23.03 » ANDREW LLOYD WEBBER - Jesus

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EVENTS IN JANUARY 08.11.

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14, 15, 16, 17 & 18 JANUARY 2019

What’s going on?

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In many ways, Croatia is a fairytale country in itself. The

Mythology and legend in Croatian literature goes back a

Ivana began writing at a young age, making the most of a

It was 1916’s ‘Croatian Tales of Long Ago’ that really made

The opening story of the book is How Quest Sought the

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Ksandro Kovačić: The Wolf and the seven little goats,

Roman Simić: I liked Russian fairy-tales, the collection

Sara Ursić: Thumbelina by the Brothers Grimm

Sanja Bachrach Krištofić: I listened and read fairy-

It is a real Christmas story that starts off with a fir-tree

These days there has been of lots of interpretation of

16 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Bridekins is arguably the most complex tale of the collec-

These are just four of the stories contained within Brlić-

Fairytales have an important role to play in the develop-

It is thus apt that her hometown of Ogulin is now home to

The spirit of Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić and her fairytales is well

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ZIYP: As children, we all read fairy-tales by Andersen

ZIYP: What types of stories and authors would you like

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Bento box, Time Restaurant & Bar Archives www.inyourpocket.com

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Time Restaurant & Bar

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24 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com

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26 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com

RITUALS AND TRADITIONS

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08.02 - 09.02 » Whisky Fair Zagreb 2019

23.02 - 24.02 » 4th Olive Festival in Zagreb

01.03 - 02.03 » Vinart Grand Tasting

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