SILK HANDLOOM

WEAVING
Making Process
Silk production process is very complex and starts after dyeing
the silk and involves various stages such as spinning, warping,
loading warp and weaving.
Spinning Process:
The silk after dyeing is brought for spinning process. Bundle of
yarn is placed on the spinning wheel. The silk strand is reeled
to spindle and the wheel is operated. The yarn from big hank
or Charka-spinning wheel is transferred into spindles. These
spindles are later used to insert into fly-shuttle which is used
in the weaving process. Making Process
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Silk production process is very complex and starts after dyeing
the silk and involves various stages such as spinning, warping,
loading warp and weaving.
Spinning Process:
The silk after dyeing is brought for spinning process. Bundle of
yarn is placed on the spinning wheel. The silk strand is reeled
to spindle and the wheel is operated. The yarn from big hank
or Charka-spinning wheel is transferred into spindles are later
used to insert into fly-shuttle which is used in the weaving
process.
VV

Warping Process:
The warping is carried out in streets preferably in the early
morning, so that the color of the silk yarn does not fade. The
length of the yarn is tied between the two poles and it is
stretched. Entangles in the yarn are checked and the breaks
are knotted. A cotton thread is laced into the warp as it is easy
to trace the entangled silk threads. Warping Process:
The warping is carried out in streets preferably in the early
morning, so that the color of the silk yarn does not fade. The
length of the yarn is tied between the two poles and it is
stretched. Entangles in the yarn are checked and the breaks
are knotted. A cotton thread is laced into the warp as it is easy
to trace the entangled silk threads.
Setting the Loom:
The loom setting activity is done before weaving process. The
yarn after warping is prepared into warp sheets by rolling the
length of yarn to an iron rod. The process of transferring the
warp sheet into weavers beam is called beaming. In this
process the strands of yarn passes through the reeds and
healds. This is done by joining each silk strand to the old warp
threads manually. It takes nearly 2-3 days to complete the
joining process. Generally women in the family perform the
joining process. Setting the Loom:
The loom setting activity is done before weaving process. The
yarn after warping is prepared into warp sheets by rolling the
length of yarn to an iron rod. The process of transferring the
warp sheet into weavers beam is called beaming. In this
process the strands of yarn passes through the reeds and
healds. This is done by joining each silk strand to the old warp
threads manually. It takes nearly 2-3 days to complete the
joining process. Generally women in the family perform the
joining process.

Computerized Design Process:

Technology is also a part in the production of silk saris. The
automated design process has replaced the traditional design
process. The image of the motif is first scanned and then it is
traced and filled with bitmaps. Finally the image is transferred
to the punch cards. Now the punch cards are attached in the
form of a chain and loaded into the jacquard machine to start
weaving. This automated process is simple and time saving.
Computerized Design Process:
Technology is also a part in the production of silk saris. The
automated design process has replaced the traditional design
process. The image of the motif is first scanned and then it is
traced and filled with bitmaps. Finally the image is transferred
to the punch cards. Now the punch cards are attached in the
form of a chain and loaded into the jacquard machine to start
weaving. This automated process is simple and time saving.

Weaving Process:
Weaving is done on the fly shuttle pit looms. The weaver
interlaces the silk threads of weft and warp. The shuttle
passes through the opens formed when the pedal is operated
to interlock the threads of warp and the weft. Once the
shuttle is passed, the suspended sley is pulled to form the
weave. The proton of woven cloth is wounded to the wooden
beam which is located in front of the weaver. After weaving of
6 yards of weft, the portion of unwoven warp is intentionally
left before and after the sari weaving which is later knotted
for fringe. Thus the weaving is completed- the sari is
smoothened using brass metal blade and sari is folded in
traditional manner for the market. It takes nearly 4 to 5 days
to complete one sari. The length of 10 saris warp is loaded
into the loom at a time. The weaver may need 1 or 2 persons
to help him while working. Weaving Process:
Weaving is done on the fly shuttle pit looms. The weaver
interlaces the silk threads of weft and warp. The shuttle
passes through the opens formed when the pedal is operated
to interlock the threads of warp and the weft. Once the
shuttle is passed, the suspended sley is pulled to form the
weave. The proton of woven cloth is wounded to the wooden
beam which is located in front of the weaver. After weaving of
6 yards of weft, the portion of unwoven warp is intentionally
left before and after the sari weaving which is later knotted
for fringe. Thus the weaving is completed- the sari is
smoothened using brass metal blade and sari is folded in
traditional manner for the market. It takes nearly 4 to 5 days
to complete one sari. The length of 10 saris warp is loaded
into the loom at a time. The weaver may need 1 or 2 persons
to help him while working.
Manufacturing process of silk

· Sericulture
· Sorting cocoons
· Softening and sericin
· Reeling
· Throwing
1 ) Sericulture:
The cultivation of silkworms for the purpose of producing silk
is called sericulture. The best raw silk is obtained from the
species of moth called Bombyx Mori. Breeding of silkworm
occurs once in a year but under scientific conditions, they may
be hatched three times a year. Larvae of about 3mm are
hatched from the eggs. For about 20 to 30 days they are
carefully nurtured and are fed five times a day on chopped
mulberry leaves. In the meantime, the larvae charge their skin
for four times and are formed into caterpillar of about 9cm
long. Now they are ready to spin cocoon for which racks,
clusters of twigs or straw are provided.
The caterpillar have small openings under their jaws called
spinnerets through which they secret a protein like substance.
This substance solidifies when it comes in contact with air and
the filament thus formed is spun around the silkworm in the
figure resembling the digit 8.
2 ) Sorting cocoon:
The cocoon is sorted according to color, shape and texture, as
all these affect the final quality of the silk. Cocoons may range
from white or yellow to grayish, depending on the source abd
the type of food consumed during the worm stage.
Cocoon from China are white, Japanese cocoons are creamy
white and yellow, Italian cocoons are yellow.
3 ) Softening the sericin:
After the cocoons have been sorted, they are put through a
series of hot and cold immersions, as the sericin must be
softened to permit the unwinding of the filament as one
continuous thread.
4 ) Reeling:
Reeling may be achieved manually or automatically. The
cocoon is brushed to locate the end of the fiber. The method
is as simple as it is laborious. It is threaded through a
porcelain eyelet, and the fiber is reeled onto a wheel.
Meanwhile, diligent operators check for flaws in the filaments
as they are being reeled.
As each filament is nearly finished being reeled, a new fiber is
twisted onto it, thereby forming one long, continuous thread.
Sericin contributes to the adhesion of the fibers to each
others. The average cocoon reels off about three hundred
yards in a single thread.
5 ) Throwing:
The production of yarn from reeled silk known as throwing
consists of adding twist or of doubling and further twisting
these strands in to desired size. Manufacturing process of silk
· Sericulture
· Sorting cocoons
· Softening and sericin
· Reeling
· Throwing
1 ) Sericulture:
The cultivation of silkworms for the purpose of producing silk
is called sericulture. The best raw silk is obtained from the
species of moth called Bombyx Mori. Breeding of silkworm
occurs once in a year but under scientific conditions, they may
be hatched three times a year. Larvae of about 3mm are
hatched from the eggs. For about 20 to 30 days they are
carefully nurtured and are fed five times a day on chopped
mulberry leaves. In the meantime, the larvae charge their skin
for four times and are formed into caterpillar of about 9cm
long. Now they are ready to spin cocoon for which racks,
clusters of twigs or straw are provided.
The caterpillar have small openings under their jaws called
spinnerets through which they secret a protein like substance.
This substance solidifies when it comes in contact with air and
the filament thus formed is spun around the silkworm in the
figure resembling the digit 8.
2 ) Sorting cocoon:
The cocoon is sorted according to color, shape and texture, as
all these affect the final quality of the silk. Cocoons may range
from white or yellow to grayish, depending on the source abd
the type of food consumed during the worm stage.
Cocoon from China are white, Japanese cocoons are creamy
white and yellow, Italian cocoons are yellow.
3 ) Softening the sericin:
After the cocoons have been sorted, they are put through a
series of hot and cold immersions, as the sericin must be
softened to permit the unwinding of the filament as one
continuous thread.
4 ) Reeling:
Reeling may be achieved manually or automatically. The
cocoon is brushed to locate the end of the fiber. The method
is as simple as it is laborious. It is threaded through a
porcelain eyelet, and the fiber is reeled onto a wheel.
Meanwhile, diligent operators check for flaws in the filaments
as they are being reeled.
As each filament is nearly finished being reeled, a new fiber is
twisted onto it, thereby forming one long, continuous thread.
Sericin contributes to the adhesion of the fibers to each
others. The average cocoon reels off about three hundred
yards in a single thread.
5 ) Throwing:
The production of yarn from reeled silk known as throwing
consists of adding twist or of doubling and further twisting
these strands in to desired size.