Silk Fiber - 1

Fiber and Yarn Manufacturing
Silk Fiber
Dr. Muhammad Mushtaq

Silk
It is also called Queen of fibers.
It is natural protein fiber of animal origin. Instead of being grown in the form
of hair, it is produced by insects in the form of continuous fine strand of fibers
called as filament, to build cocoons. There are about 300~400 varieties of
moth but only a few are profitable to collect.
Silk
Silk producing Countries:

Most historians agree that silk and sericulture (the production of
silkworms) had their origin in china nearly 2500 BC.
Now there are over 40 countries on the world map producing silk.
China is the largest producer and supplier of silk followed by India
and then Brazil.
* Production of silkworm is called as Sericulture.

Silk
Types of silk ( w. r. t) silkworms:

The silk is obtained from the cocoons of certain caterpillars (larvae),
they build cocoons to protect themselves.
Most common types are :
a. Cultivated silk spun by Bombyx mori silkworm.
b. Wild silk spun by certain wild species of silk worm.
Silk
Life cycle in sericulture

Hatching of egg:
The first stage in sericulture process is the production of silk worm eggs
in a controlled environment.
Female moth deposits about 400 eggs at a time.
Hatching of eggs is normally done by spreading eggs over shallow trays
in the
Silk
Eggs are kept in hatching shed, which is closely

regulated at 80 ⁰F for about 8 to 10 days.
Finally tiny eggs are hatched into Larvae
(caterpillars). At this point, the Larva is about
quarter of an inch.
Silk
Feeding period:
Once hatched, the
larvae are placed in
huge trays and fed
huge amount of
chopped mulberry
tree leaves.
Silk
During this stage silkworm do nothing but eat.

After about 30 to 35 days since it was hatched, it stops eating and
changes color to greenish white and filled with liquid silk.
It is about 10,000 times heavier than when it hatched.
The silkworm is now ready to spin a silk cocoon.
Silk
Spinning the cocoon:

The silk worm now
starts spinning of
cocoon and liquid silk
secretions extrude
from two glands.
This viscous, clear liquid is forced through the
openings, on the mouthpart of larva, harden on
exposure to air and form twin filaments.
A second pair of glands nearby secretes a gummy
binding fluid called sericin which binds two
filaments (fibrions) together steadily over the next
3 to 4 days, the silkworm rotate its body into a
figure- 8 movement over some 300,000 times
constructing a cocoon and producing about a mile
of silk filament.
Silk
The caterpillar then changes from larva to pupa and in this condition it sleeps
for about 18 to 20 days. Then if left undisturbed it transforms into moth.
If pupa is not killed it will transform into moth and becomes fully awake and
strives to emerge from cocoons . It will push itself against the wall of cocoon by
breaking some of the obstructing fibers.
The continuous silk filament is thus broken up into thousands of short pieces.
Within the few days of making its cocoons, the silk producers kill the pupa in the
cocoon.
Silk
The usual method of killing are;
1. Immersing the cocoons in the steam for few minutes.
2. By baking cocoons in hot oven.
3. By placing the cocoons in the boiling water.
4. By freezing the cocoons to death.

Processes:
• Reeling
• Throwing
• Degumming
Silk
Reeling of silk:
The process of unwinding the filament from the cocoon is called

reeling.
This process is carried out in a building called reeling plant.
The cocoons are soaked in boiling water to soften the sericin gum
that is holding the filaments in place.
Silk
The cocoons are taken out and loose fluffy silk on outside is cleaned
off which is then used in production of spun silk yarn.
The cocoons are again placed in hot water basin and labor use a
brush or broom to push cocoons up and down in the water until
some loose end of filament becomes attached to broom .
The filament is drawn out gently; the cocoons tumbles around
in water and gradually unreel itself.
* A single filament of silk is very fine (12~30μm)
Silk
Throwing:
It is a process in
which two or more
multifilament strands
are combined and
twisted together to
form heavier threads.
Silk
Degumming:
The process of removing the sericin from raw silk or thrown silk is called
Degumming.
The natural sericin gum is normally left on silk during reeling, throwing
and weaving. It acts as a size which protects the filaments and fibers
from mechanical injury.
The gum is removed from finished yarn by boiling with soap and water.
Cross section of raw silk is roughly elliptical. Figure shows that triangular
twin fibroin filaments, covered by sericin, face each other. The beauty,
softness and luster of silk are due to the triangular cross section of the silk
filament. After degumming process, twin fibroin filaments separates into
individual filaments giving finer and more lustrous fiber. It lacks longitudinal
features along the longitudinal-section
Silk
Silk fabrics woven with sericin have a characteristic stiffness of handle

and dull in appearance.
After degumming silk acquire beautiful luster.
One third of weight of fabric is lost when sericin gum is removed in
this way.
Raw silk with gum still on filament is called hard silk.
Silk
Spun silk:
Short length of silk fibers obtained from the various silk waste are not
used in reeled silk and in making thrown silk yarns but these are spun
into yarns just like cotton, linen or wool yarns.
Spun silk yarn are strong but they are less lustrous than reeled silk yarn
and not as strong and elastic as reeled silk filament yarn.
Sources of staple silk :
Pierced cocoons
Double cocoons
Silk
Silk worm diseases:

The silk worm is subject to number of severe diseases the most
common of which is “Pebrine”
Black spots appear on the body of silk worm.
The infected silkworm kill off by the disease before they can spin
Longitudinal view
Cross Sectional view

(Triangular)
Properties of silk fiber:
Tensile strength:
Silk is strong fibre. Its strength is due to linear structure
and very crystalline polymer.
Usually 30.9 – 44.1 cN/tex
Elongation:
Silk filament has elongation at break 20-25 %.
Specific gravity:
Its specific gravity is 1.25
Elastic properties:
Silk is considered to be more plastic than elastic.
Because it’s a crystalline polymer it does not allow
polymer movement which could only occur in
amorphous region.
Its handle is regarded as soft because of the smooth,
even, and regular surface of silk filament.
Effect of moisture:
It absorbs moisture. Its moisture regain is 11%.
Degummed silk will swell as it takes up moisture.
Effect of heat:
Silk will withstand higher temperature of 140 degree centigrade and
decompose at 165 degree centigrade.
Effect of age:
Silk may suffer a gradual loss of strength if stored not carefully.
Effect of sunlight:
Silk starts decomposition by exposure to strong radiation of sunlight.
Effect of acids:
Dilute acids should be used.
Effect of alkalis:
Light alkali like ammonia cause little damage.
Effect of insects:
It can be readily attacked by
clothes moth or
carpet beetles.
Effect of microorganism:
Silk is resistant to mildew and bacteria
unless it is left for some period of time
under extreme conditions.
ADVANTAGES OF SILK FABRIC:
• Luxurious hand (the feel of a fiber, yarn, or fabric to the wearer)
• Excellent drape (a fabric’s ability to fold while worn)
• Wonderful luster (reflection of light on fabric)
• Hydrophilic
• Stain resistant
• Strong but lightweight

DISADVANTAGES OF SILK FABRIC:
• Fair abrasion and resiliency
• Turns yellow if bleached
• Poor resistance to exposed sunlight
• Expensive
• Degrades over time with exposure to oxygen, making it difficult to

preserve
Applications of silk fiber:
Pharmaceutical
Biomedical
Cosmetic
Automobile
House Building
Anti-bacterial

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Fiber and Yarn Manufacturing

Dr. Muhammad Mushtaq

Silk producing Countries:

* Production of silkworm is called as Sericulture.

Types of silk ( w. r. t) silkworms:

Life cycle in sericulture

Eggs are kept in hatching shed, which is closely

During this stage silkworm do nothing but eat.

Spinning the cocoon:

The usual method of killing are;

1. Immersing the cocoons in the steam for few minutes.

2. By baking cocoons in hot oven.

3. By placing the cocoons in the boiling water.

4. By freezing the cocoons to death.

The process of unwinding the filament from the cocoon is called

Silk fabrics woven with sericin have a characteristic stiffness of handle

Silk worm diseases:

Cross Sectional view

• Excellent drape (a fabric’s ability to fold while worn)

• Wonderful luster (reflection of light on fabric)

• Strong but lightweight

• Turns yellow if bleached

• Poor resistance to exposed sunlight

• Degrades over time with exposure to oxygen, making it difficult to

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