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IO Mount QuickStartGuide

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- Mount

Quick start guide


If you are reading this document it is because you have trusted my design to improve
your printer for which I have to thank you.

This document is not a manual, in fact you do not need a manual to install IO-Mount,
it is very simple.

This little help is only intended to guide you in some small details in the preparation
of your mount.

Keep in mind that improper handling of the wiring or poor installation can cause
damage to your printer and other damages such as fire and health, since your printer
works with a voltage of 110/220V that can be deadly if it is applied to a person. For all
these reasons, do not carry out this work if you do not have the knowledge to carry it
out, in this sense the design does not offer any guarantee and you are at your own
risk if you install it.

To undertake the work in the best possible way, I advise you to join the TwoTrees
community on Telegram where you can discuss the details with other users and with
me personally.

You can do so by clicking on the following link or by scanning the barcode from your
Telegram application on your smartphone.

https://t.me/+Fz4sLBDAl8g2MjY0

This guide is valid for the TwoTrees Sapphire Plus (SP-5), Sapphire Pro (SP-3)
printers and for the prototype that did not see the light of day Two Trees Woodpecker.

For the printers that are currently marketed you can find links below:

• SP-5 V1.1 (Latest version of Sapphire Plus): https://bit.ly/3ADXjMZ

• SP-5 V2.1 (Same as V1.1 but with enclosure): https://bit.ly/3KsrYk1

• SP-3 (Latest version Sapphire Pro): https://bit.ly/3pDjfl7


Let's move on to what you'll find in your download. All the pieces start with A_ or C_ ,
this refers to the two colors, the accent color and the core color, this is just a
suggestion, but if your wish is to print it in two colors you have this job done.

Just by reading and looking at the parts you can choose your configuration
depending on your hardware, spend 5 minutes for this.

A great deal of effort has also been put into printing ease, this way you won't have to
use supports on any of the pieces or reposition them, they are already laid out in the
position they need to be printed.

The recommended materials are Nylon, PETG or ABS, the latter being my favorite
due to its versatility. You can also use more common materials such as PLA,
although it may suffer some deformation due to heat in the most exposed pieces.

Print your parts with 3-4 perimeters, a technical infill such as cubic or honeycomb
between 20-25%. The recommended layer height is between 0.12 and 0.2, and the
extrusion width should be set to 0.4.

The first thing you must have before starting the work are all the materials, the design
can be assembled in a very short time of fun, but if you start the work and you do not
have all the materials, the process can be long and cumbersome. A great effort has
been made to reduce the amount and variety of hardware needed to be able to
assemble everything with a single type of screw (except for the bl touch which needs
an M2 screw and nut).

Some screws are not named because the ones supplied with the printer can be used,
this is the case, for example, of the M2 screws of the layer fans or those that hold the
endstop to the mount.

You must use button M3 or slim socket M3 in all places, in some places you can use
a printable M3 conical washer suplied. If you don’t have button or slim screws you
can use regular socket screws in most of the places except 4 that hold the top plate
to rail.

The inserts must be M3 helicoidal, 4.5-4.6mm OD, lenght from 3 to 4mm.

All that you need is:

Minimal install:

• M3x6: 5 units

• M3x8: 6 units

• M3x12: 4 units

• M3x16: 6 units

• M3 inserts: 17
4020 layer fans:

M3x16: 4 units

Direct Drive:

M3x8: 4 units

M3x12: 2 units

M3 inserts: 6 units

Cablechain:

M3x8: 3 units

M3 inserts: 3 units

Now let's see the position of the inserts, do not put more than those seen in these
drawings:
For direct Drive (select your correct expansion sockets):

Now let's see the location of the screws, you can view a circle with the lenght in mm:
Knowing the location of all the inserts and screws you can start the assembly of your
mount, it is very easy, it can be assembled in less than an hour, the wiring does not
need to be modified except for some detail and you have many ways to place it to
your liking.

If in the future you want to change the extruder due to failure or to test you only have
to reprint the necessary expansion sockets, this also applies to changing from a few
layer fans to larger ones.

Now I will give you some warnings and things you should know:

- To use Bltouch you must cut the upper plastic tabs as you can see in the images of
the post on Cults or use the 90º support.

- If you changed the extruder for a different one you must define the new steps/mm in
your printer.

- If you changed the hotend and with it the thermistor you must define the mounted
model in your firmware, in Klipper and RepRap it is changed from the configuration
file and in Marlin you must recompile with the correct one defined.

- If you have mounted a leveling sensor you must define the offset in X and Y for the
sensor:

- Bltouch (and clones) : X: -24.1mm Y: -34.3mm

- Inductive ( all ) : X: -22.3mm Y: -32.7mm

- To use the 4010 layer ducts you must cut one of the tabs, you will see it easily when
mounting them, this is so you can print everything without supports.

- If you use 4020 fans in some configurations such as saphire plus with 2 endstop
and volcano block you must modify your Z endstop a bit to avoid collisions.

I'll try to update this mini-guide if anyone needs any other information, the
design has been made with ease of assembly in mind, enjoy your 3D printing.

• Twotrees Telegram international group: https://bit.ly/3u4BaEQ

• IO-Mount SP-5: https://bit.ly/3rmVlMD

• IO-Mount SP-3: https://bit.ly/3AUd01g

• IO-Mount Woody: https://bit.ly/3L3Vf4i

• Youtube channel: https://bit.ly/34aYXby

• Instagram account: https://bit.ly/3IW1m8Q

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